Summerguide 2016

nouveau Lobster dishes • Acadia Magic • Robert Indiana Devouring Maine • Where the crowds are

Summer

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Ready, Set, Summer Summerguide 2016 Vol. 31 NO. 4 $7.95

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The Cottage at Town Landing sits atop a natural ledge, at the southern tip of Southport Island with expansive views to the ocean and a lighthouse beyond. A winding grass path leads from the cottage to the pier below.

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Your Table is Waiting Paul’s Steak House is the dining experience you’ve been waiting for. We take pride in serving only hand-cut steak that is carefully selected from the very best cattle and cooked to perfection.

Our extensive wine list, heated outdoor seating and incredible views give you an unforgettable, five-star restaurant dining experience. Come and taste for yourself.

Visit www.pauls-steakhouse.com for hours or to see a menu.

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LIVE LOBSTER - SWORDFISH - HADDOCK - HALIBUT Free-Range: (frê’rãnj’) adj.:

Relating to animals that range freely for food, rather than being confined in an enclosure: free-range lobsters. Our name has a greater meaning than just a sign on our store. Free Range Fish & Lobster is committed to selling you only Fish and Lobster that is fished or farmed in ways that don’t harm the environment or the future of the fishing industry. Free-Range to us means having respect for the fishing industry and the seafood we sell.

It is our practice to only buy seafood from fisheries that are run in a sustainable way. This means we do not support overfishing, unregulated or illegal fishing, habitat damage, accidentally caught species and poor fisheries management. Our commitment to you is to offer you the freshest seafood available with the philosophy of maintaining a Healthy Ocean.

LOBSTER MEAT - MUSSELS - OYSTERS - STEAMERS

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VISIT MECA THIS SUMMER! CONTINUING STUDIES Programs for Youth, Teens & Adults Get inspired! Choose from a wide variety of creative programming: week-long intensives, weekly courses, and weekend workshops. meca.edu/cs

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Our team in Portland keeps getting stronger.

Left to right: Kimberly DeSchuiteneer, Linda Goodwin, John Lescure, John Frost, Jahnna Steindl, Richard Casselman, Jennifer Mirabile, Suzanne Rende, Stephen Olore, Ellen Ziobron, Janet Butland, James Cox

We are proud to welcome Jennifer Mirabile, CFP , CWS and Suzanne Rende, CTFA to our Portland Wealth Management team. Together they bring over 40 years of wealth management experience.

From wealth management to commercial and consumer banking, our breadth of products and services is only exceeded by our dedication to our clients. To see how we can put our know-how to work for you, please call us at 207-828-3104. ®

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Bethel Bethel is a year-round recreational paradise. Visit Maine’s western mountains for endless hiking, canoeing and kayaking, fishing, golf on two courses, and scenic drives in every direction.

Enjoy culture and comforts with lodging for all budgets, 30+ restaurants, a National Historic District, museums, and festivals and events in every season.

Bethel is Maine’s winter playground, home to top-notch alpine skiing, and miles of trails for XC skiing, snowshoeing, and snowmobiling.

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from left: Sarah Morrill; Dave Cleaveland - Maine Imaging; cover image assembled by Meaghan Maurice

Summerguide 2016 | Vol. 31, No. 4

68

219 Personalities 40 I Fooled Around and Fell in Love…With Maine Blues legend Elvin Bishop talks Maine, music, and Japanese ahead of his stop at Rockland’s North Atlantic Blues Festival July 17.

Interview by Colin W. Sargent

191 The Last Picture Show?

Drama behind the silver screen at Pride’s Corner and Bridgton Drive-Ins.

By Michael Schoch

280 Flash

Food&Drink 75 Lobster With a Twist

Hungry Eye goes on the hunt for the latest lobster craze.

By Claire Z. Cramer

212 Everyday Sommelier This summer, everything’s coming up rosés.

By Ralph Hersom 218 Dining Guide 219 Restaurant Review Scales: On the Portland waterfront, slide into the city’s most hyped new restaurant.

By Diane Hudson

Art&Style 277 Fiction

“Perhaps You Can’t Help Yourself.”

By Dan Domench

Shelter&Design 249 House of the Month For Sale: The Mark Twain House on the York River.

By Colin W. Sargent

254 New England Homes & Living

Perspectives 30 From the Editor 32 Letters 170 Eye in the Sky

The craze for drones is sweeping over Maine.

By Sarah Moore Drone photography

by Chris Trafford

203 “Oversexed, Overfed, Over Here” Why, oh, why does Sweden hate Maine lobster, and why have they proposed an EU ban on the invasion?

From Staff & Wire Reports

Cover: Spring Point Light by Eliot Gilfix Summerguide 2016 25

Our Restaurants Hooligans Steak & Ale Hurricane Raw Bar The Sunset Deck Lindbergh’s Landing Pier Patio Pub Tequila Frogs

Fresh Local Seafood Family Friendly Childrens Menu Beautiful Ocean Views Friendly Staff Relaxed Atmosphere

Entertainment 7 Days A Week 3 Restaurants

Dining over the ocean with a million dollar view Live s andof B4

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the HOTTEST in All Happening @ The Pier Old Orchard Beach, Maine For more information, go to our website at OOBPier.com OOBPier.com

Summerguide 2016 | Vol. 31, No. 4

100 from left: William Brawley; courtesy academe

Acadia,

100 Deconstructing Acadia Acadia isn’t just the world’s most breathtaking national park. Never has been.

108 Playground of the

104 Acadia Exclusive,

Different World: Campobello The Canadian/Acadian island is home to Franklin Delano Roosevelt’s lost youth.

By Colin W. Sargent

inclusive.

Demystifying the history of Acadia. By Colin W. Sargent

Rich & Famous A star map of Acadia.

From Staff & Wire Reports

120 Different Country,

75

134 Indiana’s Indianas The pop art legend looks back.

From Staff & Wire Reports 140 Writing Acadia: A Personal Memoir Extraordinary insights from the bestselling author of The Orphan Train.

By Christina Baker Klein

Deconstructed

145 Savage Beauties The story behind Monhegan painter Rockwell Kent’s Arctic masterpiece.

By Colin W. Sargent 147 Swept Away For Sale: “Windswept,” the Somes Sound home to the Auchinclosses and, later, Reagan Defense Secretary Caspar Weinberger.

By Colin W. Sargent

Summerguide 2016 27

Summerguide 2016 | Vol. 31 No. 04

Maine life 34 Maine Classics 37 Summerguide 67 Chowder 68 Portland After Dark: Where’s the Party?

Late nights, loud music.

By Karen Hofreiter

249 88 Dream Islands

Do you dare? Wrap yourself in the all-encompassing silence of your own romantic isle.

By Jackie Murray & Sherwood Olin

2 8 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

179 Journey Without Maps & Hacking Maine An insider guide to Vacationland.

From Staff & Wire Reports

197 Shipping News

What’s that floating into port with the ghost ship Titanic?

From Staff & Wire Reports

209 Extraordinary Maine Disinterring Maine’s haunted history.

By Loren & Jenny Coleman

217 L’Esprit de l’Escalier “Lucky Cob”

By Rhea Côté Robbins

from left: The Brunswick; Eric Reuter - Keller Williams Ali Goodwin

68

Discover everything you need for your Maine adventure

INCLUDING THE

ADVENTURE

Explore free festivals, sporting expos, summer concerts, and more Enjoy classes at our Outdoor Discovery Schools, great for every skill level Shop at our Flagship store in Freeport, 24 hours a day, 365 days a year For a full list of events, details and dates, visit llbean.com/freeport

Freeport, Maine llbean.com/freeport

Editorial Colin W. Sargent, Editor & Publisher

Fabulous Fiction

P Summer on Ocean Point Monhegan Morning

9 x 12, oilPaul on linen, BlackBrad Betts

11 x 14 oil

Featuringoriginal original works ne art, Featuring worksofoffifine art, photography and and limited-edition photography limited-edition printsby byregional regional and prints andlocal localartists. artists.

372 Fore Street 372 Fore Street Portland, Maine 04101 Portland, Maine 04101 (207) 874-8084 (207) 874-8084 www.forestreetgallery.com

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V ision &V erse

ortland Head Light is legendary for its bright beam that cuts through the empty darkness. Here at Portland Monthly Magazine, we love our legendary fiction section. We are singular north of Boston for having one, making you both discerning and singular as readers. We are proud to have run fiction across our dazzling array of issues since we were founded in 1985.

Which is a story in itself.

• Fabulous, edgy Joan Connor, winner of the AWP Prize for Fiction, published her first short story in Portland Magazine.

• When I first met Sebastian Junger, I ventured “Good writer” as a note for him on the Rolodex card I still have. Four years before The Perfect Storm (May 1997), his short story “Speeding On Small Roads” appeared in our July/August 1993 issue. Did Junger’s star quality (and flair for cataloguing) show that early on, when our readers discovered him ahead of the curve? You decide: “She’d been drawing all afternoon. She’d drawn onions she’d drawn work boots– Joey had two pair–she’d drawn paper clips she’d drawn her toes real large. Joey stood in the hallway and stripped his clothes. He peeled off his Carhartt, his sweatshirt, his flannel shirt, his other flannel shirt, his long john top, his canvas work pants, his long john bottoms, his socks and walked up to her. He was utterly naked. She continued to draw.”

E N C AU S T I C

UNIVERSITY OF NEW ENGLAND ART GALLERY JULY 6–OCTOBER 2, 2016

Helene Farrar, Peace Interrupted

University of New England Art Gallery Wednesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday, 12–5 p.m., Thursday 12–7 p.m.and by appointment.

Please call (207) 221-4499 www.une.edu/artgallery

3 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

More intimately, the reason why we luxuriate in our fiction section is, we care about writing, and we care about you. Reading is an out-of-body experience. It’s fun to travel with writers who think long and deep about Maine. And every Summerguide, we go all out to grab a big name.

Writers up in lights in Portland Magazine’s pantheon include Christina Baker Kline (Orphan Train), Rick Moody (The Ice Storm), Mameve Medwed, Jack Driscoll, Morgan Callan Rogers, Andrew McCarthy, Gwen Thompson, Michael C. White, John Buffalo Mailer, Lewis Turco, Jason Brown, Ann Hood, Kate Christensen, and on and on.

Because we’re driven by writing, our interns become stars. Our first intern, Hannah Holmes, is the author of The Secret Life of Dust. Intern Jason Brown wrote fiction for us before W.W. Norton published his Driving the Heart and he won a visiting writer’s chair at Stanford. Don’t miss Gwen Thompson’s prize-winning novella Men Beware Women.

So who’s the über talent in this issue? Dan Domench has written for us a record 42 times in our just over 300 issues. The fiction section is a private squash court to him, a box full of tension, a place of exactness. The second I started reading his story “Perhaps You Can’t Help Yourself,” a shiver ran through me. Here, I send that shiver to you.

Maine’s City Magazine

165 State Street, Portland, Maine 04101 Phone: (207) 775-4339 Fax: (207) 775-2334 E-mail: staff@portlandmonthly.com www.portlandmagazine.com

Colin W. Sargent Founding Editor & Publisher editor@portlandmonthly.com Art & Production Nancy Sargent Art Director Jesse Stenbak Associate Publisher staff@portlandmonthly.com Meaghan Maurice Design Director meaghan@portlandmonthly.com Advertising Nicole Barna Advertising Director nicole@portlandmonthly.com Ryan Hammond Advertising Executive ryan@portlandmonthly.com Elizabeth Murphy Advertising Executive elizabeth@portlandmonthly.com Anna J. Nelson Advertising Executive

editorial Sarah Moore Assistant Editor & Publisher sarahm@portlandmonthly.com Colin S. Sargent Special Features & Archives Jason Hjort Webmaster Diane Hudson Flash · Reviews Jeanee Dudley Experience

Longfellow BOOKS

HOW PORTLAND DOES A BOOKSTORE

THE PLACE FOR NEW & USED BOOKS ON THE PENINSULA

accounting Eric S. Taylor Controller eric@portlandmonthly.com interns Jackie Murray, Amelia Connolly, Sean Kruger, Jamie Wilson subscriptions To subscribe please send your address and a check for $39* (1 yr.), $58* (2 yrs.), or $68* (3 yrs.) to Portland Magazine,165 State Street Portland, ME 04101 *Add 5.5% if mailed to a Maine address. or subscribe online at www.portlandmagazine.com

Readers & Advertisers

The opinions given in this magazine are those of Portland Magazine writers. No establishment is ever covered in this magazine because it has advertised, and no payment ever influences our stories and reviews.

Plus Cards, Journals, Gifts & Portland’s Largest Selection of Magazines

Portland Magazine is published by Sargent Publishing, Inc. All cor­re­spondence should be addressed to 165 State Street, Portland, ME 04101. Advertising Office: 165 State Street, Portland, ME 04101. (207) 775-4339. Repeat Internet rights are understood to be purchased with all stories and artwork. For questions regarding advertising invoicing and payments, call Eric Taylor.

Newsstand Cover Date: Summerguide 2016, published in June 2016, Vol. 31, No. 4, copyright 2016. Portland Magazine is mailed at third-class mail rates in Portland, ME 04101 (ISSN: 1073-1857). Opinions expressed in articles are those of authors and do not represent editorial positions of Portland Magazine. Letters to the editor are welcome and will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication and copyright purposes and as subject to Portland Magazine’s unrestricted right to edit and comment editorially. Responsible only for that portion of any advertisement which is printed incorrectly. Advertisers are responsible for copyrights of materials they submit. Nothing in this issue may be reprinted in whole or in part without written permission from the publishers. Submissions welcome, but we take no responsibility for unsolicited materials. All photography has been enhanced for your enjoyment.

Portland Magazine is published 10 times annually by Sargent Publishing, Inc., 165 State Street, Portland, Maine, 04101, with news­stand cover dates of Winterguide, February/March, April, May, Summerguide, July/August, September, October, November, and December. We are proudly printed in the USA by Cummings Printing.

Portland Magazine is the winner of 59 American Graphic Design Awards presented by Graphic Design USA for excellence in publication design.

Monument Square, Portland 207-772-4045 www.longfellowbooks.com

S a r g e n t

Publishing, inc.

Summerguide 2016 31

letters editor@portlandmonthly.com h ly Port l a Nd moNt

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bird’s eye view I was enchanted the Chris Patch installation at Mayo Street Arts and was more than delighted to encounter it at the PMA [See “Taking Flight” May 2016.]. Then to learn it was acquired for the PMA’s permanent collection renewed my beleaguered hope that there might be justice in this world. What a life-affirming and democratic work of public art. Kudos, Chris Patch!

Larry Hayden, Portland picture perfect I enjoyed the beautiful cover photo of Kennebunk Beach in your May 2016 issue. At the center of the photo is KBIA, the nonprofit summer camp.

Martin Lodish, Kennebunk local news I lived in Kennebunkport on School Street from 2000 to 2006. Very interesting and informative article. I enjoyed it very much. {See “Bridging the Kennebunks” May 2016] Ralph Chiasson, via email “Wild Child” dan fogelberg I just finally read this story and had to use up a few tissues. [I was moved by the] beautifully asked and answered questions about “my” beloved Dan. I miss him so much, still. So glad to know more about him and his loving wife, Jean, taking care of him till the end.

Jan Waskom, via email Pop star Dan Fogelberg died with great courage. He sailed his 36-foot sailboat Minstrel from Deer Isle, Maine to Boston for cancer treatment. Visit bit. ly/1t2hIp4 to read the story.

Find Out Why! DiMillo’s is the #1 family-owned restaurant in Maine, and the reason is simple.

Our diners love our food.

From delicious lobster, fresh salmon, haddock and amazing seafood specials to our tender, mouth-watering filet mignon and other steaks to our amazing luncheon soups, we’ve got it all.

If you haven’t been to DiMillo’s in Portland’s Old Port lately, stop in and taste what you’ve been missing!

Chef Melissa Bouchard, one of Maine’s Chefs of the Year, has delicious new specials every week.

Every table has a view of Portland Harbor and parking is always free!

Always FREE parkineg while you’r on board!

In the Old Port • Portland, Maine 772-2216 • www.dimillos.com Full Marina Services: 773-7632

MaineClassics

Eye

Catching

Lobster traps as accessories? You don’t get more Maine than that. Co-founders of TRAPS eyewear Daniel Dougherty and John Turner found inspiration from Maine’s coastal culture. “Lobster traps symbolize the tradition and heritage of Maine. We wanted to make creative and timeless pieces.” With prices starting at $250 a pair, looking good doesn’t come cheap. trapseyewear.com

Kyle’s in Style

Paget Brewster (as “Kathy,” she dated Joey and Chandler in Season 4 of Friends) is starring in the Kyle Rankin movie The Witch Files which has been filming in Brunswick, Bath, and Portland since May. She recently tweeted: “Tip: If you shoot a movie out of town, eat only local food.

Tip 2: Always shoot in Maine…” We think she’s on to something.

Rankin’s other Maine horror flick, screening in Europe (see Madrid Film Festival poster, right), just won its U.S. distribution rights. Night of the Living Deb, the zombie spoof based in Portland, will be available for purchase this September. Look out for local landmarks.

3 4 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Maine a Shoe-in in Rio

At the Rio Olympics this August, every Team USA athlete will represent Maine, from heel to toe. Ralph Lauren, official U.S. opening ceremony outfitters, enlisted Lewiston’s Rancourt & Co Shoemakers to design the bespoke footwear.

The third-generation fatherson duo was “incredibly honored and pleased to showcase the shoemaking heritage that still exists in Maine.” Look for these all-American red, white, and blue leather boat shoes on your favorite Olympic stars.

You can own them, too: $350, ralphlauren.com

Clockwise from top left: ralph lauren(2); dan dougherty; no cturna; twitter; hotorbeast. com

From left: U.S. Olympic athletes Ryan Lochte, Haley Anderson, and Jordan Burroughs model Ralph Lauren closing ceremony uniforms (and shoes!) on the Today Show in New York.

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from top: eric schwabel; Image: Georgia O’Keeffe (United States, 1887-1986), Horse’s Skull with Pink Rose, 1931, Oil on canvas, 40 x 30 in (101.6 x 76.2 cm), Los Angeles County Museum of Art, Gift of the Georgia O’Keeffe Foundation, Photo: 2015 Museum Associates/LACMA.

Theater Company, Lincoln Academy, Newcastle. Summer Camp, Jun. 27-Jul. 17; The Tempest, Jul. 15-23. heartwoodtheater.org

Theater

Belfast Maskers, at locations around Belfast; see website. The Addams Family Musical, August; Noel Coward’s Blithe Spirit, Oct. 930-7244 belfastmaskers.com Celebration Barn Theater, 190 Stock Farm Rd., South Paris. Mike Miclon’s The Early Evening Show, first Saturday in Jun., Jul., Aug., Sept. & Oct.; See website for theater training workshops Jul.- Aug. 743-8452 celebrationbarn.com Children’s Museum & Theater of Maine, 142 Free St., Portland. Stage stories, daily. Perseus and Medusa, Jun. 30-Jul. 16; The 12 Labors of Heracles; Jul. 21-Aug. 6; Icarus and Daedalus, Aug. 11-27. 8281234 kitetails.org

Brown Bag Lunch Series at Portland Public Library Downtown workers, grab your lunchbox and head over to the library for one of the bi-weekly free lectures and Q&A sessions, starring authors from here and away.

The event is an excellent excuse to escape your desk, enjoy some free CBD coffee, and get inspired by their line up of speakers.

June 29 Susan Conley and Winky Lewis speak about their new book, Stop Here This is the Place: A Year in Motherland.

July 13 Matthew Langdon Cost speaks about his new book, Joshua Chamberlain and the Civil War: At Every Hazard.

July 27 Roger Guay and Kate Clark Flora speak about their new book A Good Man with a Dog. Aug. 10 Portland Magazine Founding Editor, Colin W. Sargent, speaks about his new book, The Boston Castrato.

Aug 24 Adam Hochschild to speak about his new book, Spain in Our Hearts: Americans in the Civil War.

Gaslight Theater, Winthrop St., Hallowell. Are You Being Served?, Jun.17-26; Agatha Christie’s Black Coffee, Aug. 19-28. 626-3698 gaslighttheater.org Lakewood Theater, 75 Theater Rd., Madison.

Last Round-up of the Guacamole Queens, Jun. 9-18; Always, Patsy Cline,

Jun. 23-Jul. 2; Cheshire Cats, Jul. 7-16; The Full Monty, Jul. 21-Jul. 30; Baskerville!, Aug. 4-13; Hello Dolly, Aug. 18-27; Of Mice and Men, Sept.

1-10; Confessions of a Dirty Blonde, Sept. 15-24. 4747176 lakewoodtheater.org Maine State Ballet Theater, 348 U.S. Rte. 1, Falmouth. Can-Can Parisien, Aug. 11-20. 781-7672 mainestateballet.org Maine State Music Theatre, Pickard Theater,

Comedy

Megan Mullally and Nick Offerman bring their uproarious double-act to Merrill Auditorium on August 30th.

City Theater in Biddeford, 205 Main St. West Side Story, Jul. 22-Aug. 7. 2820849 citytheater.org Cold Comfort Theater,see website for Belfast locations. Crimes of the Heart, Jul. 6-9; The Mikado, Aug. 3-6. 930-7244 coldcomforttheater.com Deertrees Theater, 156 Deertrees Rd., Harrison.

Around the World in 80 Days, Jul. 1-9; Underfoot in Show Business, Jul. 15-29; Terminal Bar, Aug. 4-18.

583-6747 deertrees-theatre.org Fenix Theatre Company,at Deering Oaks Park, Portland. Much Ado About Nothing, Jul. 21-Aug. 13. fenixtheatre.com Freeport Community Players, 30 Freeport Performing Arts Center, Holbrook St., Freeport. Neil Simon’s The Odd Couple-Female Version, Jul. 15-31. 865-2220 fcponline.org Good Theater & St. Lawrence Arts, 76 Congress St., Portland. Cidny Bullens: Somewhere Between: A One Wo/Man Show, May 20 & 21. 885-5883 goodtheater.com Hackmatack Playhouse, 538 Route 9, Berwick.

Noises Off, Jun. 17-Jul. 2; On the Town, Jul. 6-23; Once Upon A Mattress, Jul. 27-Aug. 13; Almost, Maine, Aug. 17-Sept. 3.

698-1807 hackmatack.org Heartwood Regional

Women Modernists in New York

The Portland Museum of Art’s summer exhibition celebrates the outstanding contribution of four female artists, Georgia O’Keeffe, Florine Stettheimer, Helen Torr, and Marguerite Zorach, to modernism and American art history.

Running June 24th through September.

Summerguide 2016 37

Pablo Picasso, Minotaure aveugle guidé par une filette dans la nuit (Blind Minotaur Led by a Little Girl in the Night), 1934. Etching, 15 3/16 x 19 13/16 in. (38.7 x 50.4 cm). Colby College Museum of Art. The Lunder Collection, 006.2016. Photo

by Gary Green. © 2016 Estate of Pablo Picasso / Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York

•PROOF_:Proof

•PROOF_:Proof 1

1/7/15

1/7/15

8:40 AM Page Summerguide

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DISCOvER PORTLAND’S ONLy ALL-SuITES is your display ad thatHOTEL will appear in the This is your display ad This that will appear in the WATERFRONT •PROOF_:Proof

1/7/15

8:40 AM

Page 1

2015 Visitor’s Guide Publication 2015 Visitor’s Guide Publication

PLEASE EVERYTHING PLEASE PROOFREAD EVERYTHING This is your display PROOFREAD adCAREFULLY. that will appear in the CAREFULLY.

Postcards from The Vollard Suite The numbers, customer format, is responsible for checking spelling, The customer is responsible for checking spelling, omissions punctuation marks,numbers, format, omissions punctuation ma A collection of key Picasso prints and etchings are part of a recent gift to Colby College. They go on display and duplications, etc... and indicate any changes and/or corrections. alignment, spacing and duplications, etc... and alignment, indicate anyspacing changes and/or corrections.

2015 Visitor’s Guide Publication

Jun. 2- Aug. 21 at the Davis Gallery.

The is NOT liable any mistakes, this is the responsibility of the c The Convention & Visitors Bureau is NOT liable or Convention any mistakes,& Visitors this is theBureau responsibility of theorclient.

1 Bath Rd., Brunswick. Ghost,the Musical, June 8-25; A Grand Night For Singing, Jun. 20; Evita, Jun. 29-Jul. 16; Fiddler on the Roof, Jul. 20-Aug. 6; Mamma Mia!, Aug. 10-27; Footlight Follies, The customer is responsible for checking spelling, numbers, format, omissions punctuation marks, Aug. 15; The Irish and How They Got That Way, alignment, spacing and duplications, etc... and indicate any changes and/or corrections.

Aug.16-Sept. 4. 725-8769 msmt.org

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DISCOVER PORTLAND’S DISCOVER PORTLAND’S ONLY ALL-SUITES WATERFRONT ALL-SUITES WATERFRONT HOTEL

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PORTopera presents: Carmen by Georges Bizet, Jul. 27-29; Nick Offerman and Megan Mullally, Aug. 30. 842-0800 porttix.com Ogunquit Playhouse, 10 Main St, Ogunquit, ME 03907. Anything Goes, Jun. 15-Jul.9; The Hunchback of Notre Dame, Jul. 13-Aug. 6; Priscilla, Queen of the Desert, Aug. 10-Sept. 3; Seven Brides for Seven Brothers, Sept. 7-Oct. 1; Million Dollar Quartet, Oct. 5-Nov. 6.

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Penobscot Theatre Company, Bangor Opera House, 131 Main St. Calendar Girls, Sept. 8-25; Murder for Two, Oct. 2-Nov. 6. 942-3333 penobscottheatre.org Portland Stage, 25 Forest Ave. The Irish and How They Got That Way, Aug. 16-Sept. 4. 7740645 portlandstage.org

Lobby Full Breakfast Buffet ~ Indoor Pool & Fitness Lobby Bar with Fireplace ~ Complimentary FullArea Breakfast Buffet ~ Ind Schoolhouse Arts Center, 16 Richville Rd.,Bar with Fireplace ~ Complimentary Standish. Beauty & The Beast, Jul. 14-31;Walk 101 to the Old Port ~ Outdoor Courtyard Short withtoFire Mid~Week Evening Receptions Short Walk the Pit Old~Port Outdoor Courtyard with Fire Pit ~ Mid W Dalmatians - Kids, Aug. 19-21; Clue, the Musical, Sept. 16-Oct. 2. 642-3743 schoolhousearts.org

Lobby Bar with Fireplace ~ Complimentary Full Breakfast Buffet

Theater at Monmouth, 796 Main St., Monmouth. Cyrano, Jun. 25-Jul. 30; Puss In Boots, Jul. 2-Aug. 9; Love’s Labours Lost, Jul. 7-Aug. 20; The Barber of Seville, Jul. 14-Aug. 21; Henry V, Jul. 21-Aug. 20; The Illusion, Jul. 28-Aug. 19; Boeing, Boeing, Sept. 15-25. 933-9999 theateratmonmouth.org

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Art Gallery at UNE, 716 Stevens Ave. The Art of Mildred G. Burrage, through Jun. 26. 221-4499 une.edu/artgallery

Bates College Museum of Art, Olin Arts Center, 75 Russell St., Lewiston. Jay Bolotin: The 145 FORE STREET ~ PORTLAND, MAINE ~ 207-761-1660 ~ www.residenceinndowntownportland.

Book of Only Enoch, Jun. 10-Oct. 8. 786-6158 bates.edu/museum

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Bowdoin College of my Art, 1ad Bath Rd., PleaseMuseum Renew Brunswick. Barbara Cooney: Drawing Biography, AS21;ISLuke DuBois-Now, through through Aug.

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Summerguide

I Fooled Around and Fell in Love…With Maine This summer for Elvin Bishop, it’s Toronto; then Rockland, Maine; then California. Among a million places. I n t e r v ie w B y C o l i n W. S a r g e n t

Have you ever been to Maine before?

Yeah, I have! Oh, I don’t know when the first time was. I’ve been to the North Atlantic Maine Blues Festival before and got some good lobster and met a lot of nice people and had a nice time. I’ve been to Orono, and Portsmouth, New Hampshire. After the first 10,000 shows, some seem to slip away.

7 July 1

With New Orleans, it’s jazz. With Memphis and Chicago, it’s blues. Do you think of Maine as having a sound you can hook into?

You’re a brainiac, a National Merit Finalist who studied physics at the University of Chicago. Exactly how many Elvin Bishops are there?

Well, I don’t know about the brainiac thing. I was always just a good test taker, you know?

Basically the college was a cover for getting to where the blues was. My family was poor, from Tulsa, Oklahoma. Black people played the blues in Tulsa, but hanging out between different races was highly discouraged back then, in the 1950s. I went to Chicago to look for the blues.

Your carefree sound isn’t afraid of silence between the notes. How did you get there?

Come on. That would put the musical ‘you’ into Wilt Chamberlain territory.

When you first start out you try and cram everything in. My heroes have always been people who were saying something meaningful and definite, and there’s only so much of that in life.

Hold on a second. The line is, “I must have been through about a million girls.” Everyone says million when it doesn’t mean a million. And “through” does not mean “made love to!” It’s knowing people, talking with them, agreeing or disagreeing with them.

Back then, I did what a young man did.

Now, I’m happily married!

Here’s a question from the women in our office.

In “I Fooled Around & Fell In Love,” you have the line “I must have made love to a thousand girls.”

Sept. 4; Renaissance Rivalries: Painting and its Sister Arts, through Nov. 27; This is a Portrait if I Say So: Identity in American Art, 1912 to Today, Jun. 25-Oct. 23. 725-3275 bowdoin.edu/art-museum

Reading by Michael White

165 State Street, Portland Magazine Headquarters. Author Michael White reads from Resting Places, his latest novel, on Aug. 12, 7 p.m.

4 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

CMCA, Center for Maine Contemporary Art, 21 Winter St., Rockland. Opens Jun. 26. Featuring: Rollin Leonard: Vernal Pond, Jun. 26-Aug. 17; Alex Katz: Small Paintings, Jun. 26-Aug. 17.

701-5005 cmcanow.org

If you’re in the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame and the

Colby College Museum of Art, 5600 Mayflower Hill Dr., Waterville. Picasso’s Vollard Suite, Jun. 2-Aug. 21; A Usable Past: American Folk Art at the Colby College Museum of Art, Jul. 9-Jan. 8. 859-5600 colby.edu Continuum for Creativity, 863 Main St., Westbrook.

Mary Brooking, Judy Schneider and Caren-Marie Michel: Sky | Woods | Sea, through July. 9252-9897 marybrooking.com

Farnsworth Art Museum, 16 Museum St., Rockland.

About Buildings, through 2017; American Treasures from the Farnsworth, through 2017; N.C Wyeth: Painter, through December; Andrew Wyeth: Dory, through November; From the Smallest Leaf: Photographs by Koichiro Kurita, through Sept. 11. 596-6457 farnsworthmuseum.org First Friday Art Walk, downtown Portland. Visit (Continued on page 44)

FROM TOP: Don quixotes international music hall of fame; sean kruger; courtesy michael White

I think of lobster and blueberries. Very few places have their own sound these days.

New Orleans is one of them. Radio was a smoothing-out influence. The world keeps changing and you have to roll with it.

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Summerguide Blues Hall of Fame, what’s your favorite song to play?

I’ve loved ’em all, or I wouldn’t have ended up writing ’em. I don’t think I’m great in any aspect, but I like to take situations and nail them in a song. They come from my own experience. If I don’t pick cotton, I don’t write songs about picking cotton.

Have you ever ventured far afield? Opera? Punk?

I have a pretty lively appreciation of my limitations, and I kind of know what to leave alone. I’m mildly interested in jazz, I like country, but what I love is blues. When everything’s going right, my songs use my strong points and avoid my weak points.

Blues helps you get through hard places. But you’ve been to some very dark, very hard places personally.

How has your music evolved across time?

If you do something for 40 or 50 years and you don’t get any better at it, shame on you. I’ve always had a feeling of what I’m on that stage for. I want to be asked back. I’ve always done as much blues as the traffic would bear, and that was damn little in the 1970s and 1980s.

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S u m m e r g u i d e 2016 43

Summerguide tion, through Jul 30; Amy Bickford: A Solo Exhibition of Paintings in Gouache and Watercolor, Aug. 1-30. richardboydpottery.com

If there’s something I want to do that people don’t want to hear, I play it on my own back porch, under the stars.

Yvette Torres Fine Art, 464 Main Street, Rockland.

Francis Grant: A Painting Is Something You Cannot Do. Through Jun. 26

Most of my vices happened when I was younger, I think.

As for my secrets, I spend a lot of time reading and writing Japanese. I was in Japan five or six times before I started to do it. I’d see signs flash by while we were driving during a tour, and I was always asking Japanese musicians, what does that say? To start off, I learned two syllabaries of 50 characters each. But you need two thousand characters to read the newspapers, so I learned those. Every night I just sit down and write Kanji. I have friends in Japan and write letters back and forth. You’re asking me how many Elvin Bishops there are? I’m a maniac gardener and canner. My kiwi jam is good. I have a pretty good hot sauce.

www.yvettetorresfineart.com

Quebe Sisters –The trio of fiddle-playing sisters transfix with their harmonies. Port City Music Hall, July 23. local galleries, studios, and museums, Jul. 8, Aug. 5. firstfridayartwalk.com Greenhut Galleries, 146 Middle St. Margaret Gerding: Maine Light through Jul. 2. 772-2693 greenhutgalleries.me Mayo Street Arts, 110 Mayo St., Hilary Irons: Petrouchka, images from the 1911 Ballet Russes Ballet. May through Aug. 26.

879-4629 mayostreetarts.org PhoPa Gallery, 132 Washington Ave., Portland.

See website for upcoming events. phopagallery.com Portland Museum of Art, 7 Congress Sq., Portland.

Duncan Hewitt: Turning Strange, through Sep. 4; Georges Braque: Surface and Space, Jun. 21-Sep. 11; Skowhegan at Seventy, Jun. 4-Oct. 10; O’Keeffe, Stettheimer, Torr, Zorach, Jun. 23-Sep. 18. 775-6148 portlandmuseum.org Richard Boyd Pottery, Epps Street, Peaks Island.

Rob Anderson: Solo exhibi-

Music

Asylum, 121 Center St., Portland. Rap and Karaoke, every Wed.; Retro Night, every Thur.; Plague, every F.; see website for upcoming concert dates. 772-8274 portlandasylum.com Blue, 650 Congress St., Portland. Acoustic Jam, Every Tues.; Irish Music Night, Every Wed.; see website for upcoming concert dates. 774-4111. portcityblue.com Casco Bay Ukefest, St. Luke’s Cathedral, State St., Portland. Ukele demonstration. Jul. 1 www.cascobayukefest.com

Tell us about your secret vices.

What new music will you be busting out with in Maine?

I’m recording a new CD right now with a bunch of original tunes on it. It’s called... I don’t know yet. We’ll see. I don’t know if it’ll be ready for the show in Maine, but the band I’m bringing to Maine will be. n The North Atlantic Blues Festival, Rockland. July 16-17. 207-5966055 northatlanticbluesfestival.com

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courtesy photo

Summerguide (continued from page 40)

July 22 - August 7 ■ Fridays & Saturdays at 7:30pm, Sundays at 2pm There is no performance on Sunday, July 24th

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Committed to providing valuable and personalized burial, cremation, and prearrangement services.

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For official Titanic merchandise please visit: thetitanicstore.com S u m m e r g u i d e 2016 45

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Summerguide

Old POrt SPecialty tile cO Phish Summer Tour is coming to Cross Insurance Arena in Portland July 6, Cross Insurance Arena, 1 Center St., Portland.

Phish, Jul. 6; Kiss: Freedom to Rock Tour, Sept. 4.

775-3458 crossarenaportland.com Cross Insurance Center, 515 Main St., Bangor. Ron White, Jul 30. 561-8300 crossinsurancecenter.com Dogfish Bar & Grille, 128 Free St., Portland.

Trivia Night, every Tues.; Acoustic Open Mic, every Wed.; Jazz Happy Hour with Travis James Humphrey and guests, every Fri.; Live music Wed.-Sat. every week. 772-5483 thedogfishcompany.com Empire, 575 Congress St., Portland. The Couch open mic, comedy and game nights, every Sun.; TriviYeah!, every Mon.; Rhythm & Tues, every Tues.; Clash of the Titans, every Wed.; PortFringe: Jun. 24-26; Dana Massive, Jul. 2; The Nth Power, Jul. 6; Mouth Washington, Jul. 21.

747-5063 portlandempire.com

5 9 M i d d l e S t r e e t · P o r t l a n d, M e 0 4 1 0 1 · 2 0 7 . 7 7 5 . 2 2 3 8 · 8 8 8 . 4 0 3 . 0 8 1 6 oldPorttile.coM Photo courtesy of Island Stone

Jonathan’s, 92 Bournes Ln., Ogunquit. Stephen Kellogg, Jun. 30; Jon Pousette-Dart Band, Jul. 1; Arlo Guthrie, Jul. 7; Johnny A., Jul. 15; Daughters of Rhythm and Blues, Jul. 17; Jonathan Edwards, Jul. 28; Tierney Sutton: “After Blue” The Joni Mitchell Project, Jul. 31; Madeleine Peyroux, Aug. 4 & 5; Kathy Mattea, Aug. 7; Jimmy Keys, Aug. 13; John Sebastian, Aug. 14.

646-4526 jonathansogunquit.com Kneisel Hall Chamber Music School and Festival, 54 Main St, Blue Hill. Providing musicians and music lovers with the opportunity to immerse themselves in the chamber repertoire for over 100 years, Jun. 25-Aug. 5.

374 2203 kneisel.org Merrill Auditorium, 20 Myrtle St., Portland. , Jun. 21; Colvin & Earle, Jul. 17; Orgelfest16, Aug. 2, 9, 16, 23; Celtic Thunder Legacy, Aug. 27. 842-0800 porttix.com

courtesy photo

One Longfellow Square, 181 State St., Portland. The Portland Jazz Orchestra, Jun. 16, Jul. 21; Barrule, Jun.21; Miles Nielsen & the Rusted Hearts, Jun. 23; Miss Tess & the Talkbacks, Jun. 24; The DuPont Brothers, Jun. 30; Lula Wiles, Jul. 5; Makem & Spain, Jul. 19; Mary Fahl, Jul. 23; Matthew Logan Vasquez, Jul. 25; Shel, Jul. 29. 761-1757 onelongfellowsquare.com Port City Music Hall, 504 Congress St., Portland. The Low Anthem, Jun. 22; Delta Rae, Jun. 25; SWMRS, Jun. 27; The Movement, Jun. 30; Cats Under the Stars, Jul. 6; The Record Company, Jul. 21; Intronaut, Jul. 22; The Quebe Sisters, Jul. 23; Unknown Mortal Orchestra, Jul. 25; The Paper Kites, Jul. 29; The Struts, Aug. 1.

956-6000 portcitymusichall.com

What kind of school doesn’t teach to the test?

Given the pace of change, we know that much of what we teach today may not be relevant for long. So we place a premium on teaching critical thinking—a skill that’s needed regardless of subject matter. It’s more challenging. But with the second-highest SAT scores in Maine for the second year running, we think it works.

Learn more about our approach at waynflete.org/learntolearn.

S u m m e r g u i d e 2016 47

Summerguide Portland House of Music and Entertainment, 57 Temple St., Portland. TRVP Nite, every Sun.; Funky Mondays, every Mon; Wednesday Happy Hour with The Working Dead, Afro Beat Music Night, every Weds. Live Jim Gaffigan at Cross Music Mon. through Insurance Arena, July 14.

Sat., see website for more listings. 805-0134 portlandhouseofmusic.com PORTopera, 25 Commercial St, Portland. The Medium, July 15; Carmen, Jul. 27-29. 879-7678 www.portopera.org Portland Bach Festival, St Luke’s Cathedral, 143 State St., Portland, Jun. 19-24. portlandbachfestival.org

Salt Bay Chamberfest, Damariscotta. Looking Forward, Looking Back: the early masterworks

by Mendelssohn, Schoenberg and Brahms. Aug. 9-20. 522-3749 saltbaychamberfest.org State Theatre, 609 Congress St., Portland.

Rodrigo y Gabriela, Jun. 22; Sleep, Jun. 24; Tommy Emmanuel, Jun. 25; Emblem3, Jun. 28; The Tallest Man On Earth with Lady Lamb, Jul.

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HOme of your Nine Inning Vacation

Saint Lawrence Art Center, 76 Congress St, Portland. Bob Dylan’s 75th: A Birthday Tribute Show- Performance by Magic 8 Ball, Jun. 25.

775-5568. stlawrencearts.org

Protecting ourOceans

Artists join with scientists to conserve the gulf of maine

Pamala Crabb Bubbles in the Sand Acrylic on canvas 20" x 20"

Beverly Rippel Tidal Flow Oil on canvas 12" x 12" x 1.5�

Pamela dejong Lobster Mixed media on braced birch 12" x 12"

charlie widdis Unfolding Photograph 20" x 30"

Oils Acrylics Pastels Watercolors Pen and Ink Charcoal Graphite Encaustic Photography Sculpture Woodcarving Blown Glass Stained Glass Pottery

June 16- July 3, 2016 The second annual Protecting Our Oceans Program opens this June 16th with two new artists joining the team.

Reception and Artist Forum Friday, June 17 5:00 pm - 8:00 pm at The Whitney Galleries 1810 Post Road Wells, Maine

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Maria’s Ristorante – Portland’s Traditional Italian Restaurant –

August 24th Join Maria’s Dinner Cruise with the Crooners and King Pin Call 233.9232 For details and tickets

Banquet Space Available Wedding Rehearsals, Receptions, Family Gatherings Open Tuesday-Saturday | www.mariasrestaurant.com 337 Cumberland Avenue • Portland • 772.9232

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Summerguide 5; Shakey Graves, Jul. 12; Preservation Hall Jazz Band, Jul. 15; Silversun Pickups, Jul. 25; Beirut, Jul. 31; Melanie Martinez, Aug. 1. 956-6000 statetheatreportland.com Stone Mountain Arts Center, 695 Dug Way Rd., Brownfield. Aztec Two Step and Jon Pousette-Dart, Jul. 3; Richard Thompson, Jul. 6; Cowboy Junkies, Jul. 7 & 8; Twilight Music Tour, Jul. 9; Brett Dennen, Jul. 14; Tom Rush and Matt Nakoa, Jul. 15; Shawn Mullins, Jul. 17; The Gibson Brothers, Jul. 22.

935-7292 stonemountainartscenter.com

July 17 Bob Dylan Thompson Point

Thompson’s Point, Portland.

The Avett Brothers, Jul. 4; Bob Dylan with Mavis Staples, Jul. 16; M83, Jul. 20; The Lumineers, Aug. 5; Leon Bridges, Sep. 9. statetheatreportland.com/ thompsons-point

Tasty Events

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Bangor Waterfront, 330 Harlow St., Bangor. Tap Into Summer Beer Festival – 20 Maine breweries come together to celebrate Maine beer.

Enjoy tastings, local food and live music, Jun. 18. visitbangormaine.com Browne Trading Company, 262 Commercial St., Portland. Wine tastings, one or more Sat. every month, 1-5 pm. 775-7560 brownetrading.com Craft Beer Cellar, 111 Commercial St., Portland.

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767-2233 • www.mainememorial.com Mon.-Fri. 8:30am to 4:00pm • Saturday 8:30am - noon • Evenings & Sundays by appointment

PORTLANDSTAGE The Theater of Maine

Bates Dance Festival in Lewiston will showcase a variety of dance companies throughout the summer.

Craft beer tastings every Fri. 956-7322 craftbeercellar.com Flanagan Farm, 668 Narragansett Trail (Rt. 202), Buxton. Benefit dinners prepared by local chefs to benefit Maine Farmland Trust. 2016 is “Word Play: The Color Series.” Green: Rob Evans of Duckfat and Masa Miyake of Miyake and Pai Men Miyake, Jun. 26; Pink: Wilson Rothschild of Terlingua and Anders Tallberg of Roustabout, Jul. 31; Black: Sous-per Crew, Aug. 7. flanaganstable.com Local Sprouts, 649 Congress St., Portland. Music Brunch with Sean Mencher and friends, every Sun. localsproutscooperative.com Lolita Vinoteca + Asador, 90 Congress St., Portland. Tapas Mondays, every Mon. 3-11 p.m.; wines & small plates pairings. 775-5652 lolita-portland.com Maine Whoopie Pie Festival, Dover-Foxcroft.

Celebrate Maine’s favorite dessert with $.25 samples from Maine bakers. “Earn Your Whoopie Pie” with children’s and adult road races organized by the Piscataquis Regional YMCA. Music, contests and rummage sales as well as other fun family activities keep the fun going well beyond the sugar high, Jun. 25. mainewhoopiepiefestival.com Old Port Wine Merchants, 223 Commercial St., Portland. Wine tastings every third Wed. 7729463 oldportwine.com

Sweetgrass Farm Old Port Tasting Room, 324 Fore St., Portland. Maine-made wine, bitters, and spirit tastings all the time. 761-8446 sweetgrasswinery.com Summer Beer Festival, Thompson’s Point, Portland. The state’s biggest brew festival returns with Maine beers, food trucks, live music and more, Jul. 23. mainebrewersguild.org/ beerfestival/

Buy Tickets: 207.774.0465 portlandstage.org 25A Forest Ave, Portland, Maine 5 2 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

In the Heart of the Arts District

Don’t Miss

Annual Maine Lobster Ride, Camden. The Bicycle Coalition of Maine’s Lobster Ride & Roll follows winding, country lanes and the

from top: grant halverson; brian Bartlett; file

Otherside Deli, 164 Veranda St., Portland. Wine tasting every first Tues. 761-9650 othersidedeli.com

Summerguide breathtaking rockbound coast past lighthouses, lupines and lobster boats. Jul. 24. mainelobsterride.com Bates Dance Festival, Bates Schaeffer Theatre, 305 College Ave., Lewiston. Kate Weare Dance Company, Jul. 29-30; Doug Varone & Dancers, Jul. 22-23; Dorrance dance, Jul. 14-16; Different Voices, Aug. 4-5. batesdancefestival.org Belfast Harbor Fest, 34 Commercial Street, Belfast. National Boat Building Challenge, Boat Show, Pancake Breakfast, 6th Annual Bug Run 5 K, Live Bands and more family fun. Aug. 19-21. belfastharborfest.com

Biddeford Boat Building Festival, 32 Main Street, Biddeford. Six participant teams will each build their own Compass Skiff, a 10-foot motorboat, over the course of the weekend. The festival will also include nautical-themed exhibitors, local youth non-profits, a Saturday evening event at Engine with special guests the Lowell Brothers, kids’ activities, food and music, and more. compassproject.org Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens, 132 Botanical Gardens Dr., Boothbay. Classic Plantastic!

Plant Sale, Jun. 18 & 19. mainegardens.org Cross Insurance Arena, 1 Center St., Portland.

Jim Gaffigan, Jul. 14. 775-3458 crossarenaportland.com Cross Insurance Center, 515 Main St., Bangor.

Cirque du Soleil: OVO, Jun. 2-5; WWE Live Summerslam Tour, Jul. 16; Ron White, Jul. 30.

561-8300 crossinsurancecenter.com Cumberland Arts & Crafts Show, Cumberland Fairgrounds, 197 Blanchard Road. Aug. 11-14.

200 talented Maine artisans will be exhibiting at one of Maine’s largest art and crafts shows. unitedmainecraftsmen.com

Maine Canoe Symposium, Winona Camps, Bridgton. Paddle, share ideas, camp and cook, learn from experts, and perfect your strokes at this 30th annual event, Jun. 10-12. 778-

0853 mainecanoesymposium.org Maine Lobster Festival, Rockland. Steamed lobsters, family activities, arts and crafts, live entertainment, Aug. 3-7. mainelobsterfestival.com Maine State Ballet, 384 US Route One, Falmouth. Can-Can Parisian, Aug. 11-13; Raymonda, Aug. 18-20. mainestateballet.org Maine Startup & Create Week, Portland. A week of learning, interviews with leaders, handson workshops and social events.. Jun. 20-26.

southportmarine.com • 207-799-8191 14 Ocean St. South Portland, ME 04106 91 Bridge St. Salisbury, MA 01952 S u m m e r g u i d e 2016 53

MAINE STATE MUSIC THEATRE 2016 Season

JUNE 8 - 25

JUNE 29 - JULY 16

JULY 20 - AUG 6

!

S U L P AUGUST 16 - SEPT 4 Produced by Portland Stage in collaboration with Maine State Music Theatre.

For tickets to this show visit www.portlandstage.org

AUG 10 - 27

BOX OFFICE: 207-725-8769 • www.msmt.org Performances held at the Pickard Theater on the campus of Bowdoin College, Brunswick.

Summerguide mainestartupandcreateweek.com Portland Science Center, 68 Commercial Street, Maine Wharf, Portland. Titanic: The Artifact Exhibition. Opens Jun.18. portlandsciencecenter.com Portland Stars & Stripes Spectacular, Eastern Promenade, Portland. Free celebration features food, fireworks and the Portland Symphony Orchestra with guest artist Melissa Manchester, Jul. 4. july4thportland.org School Around Us Craft Fair, On the Green, Ocean Ave, Kennebunkport. Featuring 65 juried artists and artisans, live music by local favorites and delicious homemade food. Jul. 2. 967-3143, www.schoolaroundus.org The Color Run, Bug Light Park, South Portland.

A 5K run with colored chalks to paint runners in rainbow. Ending with a beach festival, featuring interactive island featuring music, dancing, unique photo opportunities, and massive color throws. thecolorrun.com

You can get

Windjammer Days, Boothbay Harbor. 54th annual Windjammer Days festival, featuring a fleet of tall ships, local food and family activities. Jun. 26-Jul. 2. 504-0242 windjammerdays.org

there from here.

museums

The African Center for the Sacred Arts at The Museum of African Culture, 13 Brown St., Portland. Tu-Sat year-round. 871-7188 museumafricanculture.org

Maine’s Summer Theater

Lakewood Inn Restaurant Maine’s Summer Theater

Lakewood Inn Restaurant

76 Theater Road, Madison

On the shores of Lake Wesserunsett 76 Theater Road, Maine’s Summer Theater Madison

Lakewood Inn(207) 474-7176 Maine’s Summer Theater Restaurant

June 9 -18

On the shores of Lake Wesserunsett

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Lakewood InnJune 23 - 30

June 9 -18

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On the shores Restaurant of Lake A love letter to funny A deliciously Patsy Cline!

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Come Join Us for our 116th Season of Great Summer Entertainment!

June 9 -18

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Southern

Of Mice and Men

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Sept. 1 – 10

27 songs! 27 songs!

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Young JulyFrankenstein 21 - 30

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for our 116th Season of Great Summer Entertainment!

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Kennebunkport, Maine

1976 Portland Road, Arundel Maine S u m m e r g u i d e 2016 55

Celebrating Our 10th t Affordable Selection of Maine Tourmaline!

aine gners

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Summerguide Baxter Museum, 71 South St., Gorham. The 1831 birthplace of James Phinney Baxter, former mayor of Portland and governor of Maine. Open M-Sat. 222-1190 baxterlibrary.org

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MAINE TICKETS AVAILABLE AT STATE PIER WATERFRONTCONCERTS.COM PORTLAND, MAINE

Lighthouse Photo by: Matt Beach, The Cre8iv Company

Castle Tucker, 2 Lee St., Wicasset. Federalstyle mansion built by Judge Silas Lee in 1807.

Behind Closed Doors, July 7 & 9; The Age of Innocence and The Tuckers of Wiscasset, July 22 & August 19. Open W-Su, June. 1-Oct. 15.

882-7169 historicnewengland.org Dead River Area Historical Society, 172 Main St., Stratton. Memorabilia from native families, old carpentry and logging tools, china, glass, a complete schoolroom & a memorial room to the lost towns of Dead River and Flagstaff.

Weekends, Jul & Aug. 246-2271 Deer Isle-Stonington Historical Society, 416 Sunset Rd., Deer Isle. Extensive collection of historical objects and documents housed in the 1830 Sellers House. Jun.22-Sept.9, every W, Fr, Sa. 348-6400, dis-historicalsociety.org Fire House Museum, 157 Spring St., Portland.

Well-preserved fire house built in 1891, showcasing antique firefighting machinery. First Fri every month. 772-2040 portlandfiremuseum.com

THU MAY 26TH

SAT JUNE 4TH

THU JUNE 9TH

SUN JUNE 12TH

Gilley Museum, 4 Herrick Rd., Southwest Harbor. True-to-life wood carvings of birds made by Wendell Gilley and others, as well as educational biology programs and woodcarving workshops.

Jun.-Aug., Tu-Sa, wendellgilleymuseum.org Hamilton House, 40 Vaughn’s Ln., South

WED JUNE 15TH

TUE JUNE 21ST

SUN JUNE 26TH SUNDAY JUNE 26

SAT JULY 2ND

MAINE STATE PIER • PORTLAND

Friday June 24th

FRI JUNE 24TH

SAT JUNE 25TH

THURSDAY JULY 7TH THU JULY 7TH

FRI JULY 8TH

Maine State Pier

purchase tickets at waterfrontconcerts.com

all Ticketmaster outlets, charge-by-phone at 1-800-745-3000 or locally at The Drum Shop located at 965 Forrest Ave in Portland.

MAINE STATE PIER

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TICKETS AVAILABLE VIA WATERFRONTCONCERTS.COM, ALL TICKETMASTER OUTLIETS, CHARGE-BY-PHONE AT 1-800-745-3000 OR THE VENUE BOX OFFICE LOCATED AT THE DRUM SHOP IN PORTLAND

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MAINE STATE PIER

PURCHASE TICKETS AT WATERFRONTCONCERTS.COM ALL TICKETMASTER OUTLETS, CHARGE-BY-PHONE AT 1-800-745-3000 OR LOCALLY AT THE DRUM SHOP LOCATED AT 965 FORREST AVE IN PORTLAND.

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FRI AUG 12TH

SAT AUG 13TH

SUN AUG 14TH SUNDAY AUGUST 14 MAINE STATE PIER

TICKETS AVAILABLE VIA WATERFRONTCONCERTS.COM, ALL TICKETMASTER OUTLETS,

BY PHONE AT 1.800.745.3000 OR LOCALLY AT THE DRUM SHOP, 965 FOREST AVE. PORTLAND

TUESDAY AUGUST TUE AUG 16TH 16 MAINE STATE PIER

WED AUG 17TH

TICKETS AVAILABLE VIA WATERFRONTCONCERTS.COM ALL TICKETMASTER OUTLETS, BY PHONE AT 1.800.745.3000 OR LOCALLY AT THE DRUM SHOP, 965 FOREST AVE. PORTLAND

THUR AUG 18TH

THURSDAY AUGUST 18 MAINE STATE PIER •PORTLAND

TICKETS AVAILABLE VIA WATERFRONTCONCERTS.COM, ALL TICKETMASTER OUTLIETS, CHARGE-BY-PHONE AT 1-800-745-3000 OR THE VENUE BOX OFFICE LOCATED AT THE DRUM SHOP IN PORTLAND

FRI AUG 19TH

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ITALIAN PIRATE FOOD Bold seafood and pasta dishes descended from those eaten by the famed pirates and explorers of Genoa, Italy, birthplace of pesto. Solo Italiano’s Genovese menu boasts freshly made pasta, locally sourced seafood, and Best in the World pesto.

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Summerguide Berwick. 1785 Georgian mansion on the Salmon Falls River purchased by Mrs. Emily Tyson in 1989, and restored to its former glory through the influence of the writings of Sarah Orne Jewett. W-Su, to Oct. 15. 384-2454 historicnewengland.org International Cryptozoology Museum, 11 Avon St., Portland & Thompson’s Point. Explore hidden and unknown animals like Yetis and Bigfoot and other worldwide cryptids. M, W-Sun. Cryptozoologymuseum.com Joshua L. Chamberlain Museum, 226 Maine St., Brunswick. Built in 1824 and briefly occupied

by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, long-term home of the Civil War hero Chamberlain, fourterm Maine governor, and president of Bowdoin College. Tu-Su, to Columbus Day. 729-6606 pejepscothistorical.org L.C. Bates Museum, 16 Prescott Dr., Hinckley.

Maine’s early 20th-century natural history museum includes a mounted blue marlin donated

by Ernest Hemingway. Apr-Sept, W-Sun. 2384350 gwh.org Maine Maritime Museum, 243 Washington St., Bath. Exhibits, interaction, replicas, river cruises.

Daily.443-1416 mainemaritimemuseum.org Maine Historical Society, 489 Congress St., Portland. Down the Allagash, through Jun. 26; see website for upcoming exhibitions. 774-1822 mainehistory.org

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Summerguide Maine Jewish Museum, 267 Congress St., Portland. Jamie Johnston & Sandra Bogdonoff, through Jun. 10; Camille Davidson, Jun. 14-Sept.

5. mainejewishmuseum.org Marrett House, 40 Ossipee Trail East Rte. 25, Standish. Late Georgian house (1789) with extensive herb and perennial garden. First & third Sat. to Oct. 15. 882-7169 historicnewengland.org Montpelier: The General Henry Knox Museum, corner of Rte. 1 and ME Route 131, Thomaston. The Secretary of War to George Washington retired to Maine in 1895; this 1929 replica of his mansion includes many of the furnishings of the original. Jun.1-Sept. 3, Tu-F. 354-8062 knoxmuseum.org Neal Dow Memorial, 714 Congress St., Portland. Federal-style, 1829 home of General Neal Dow, two-time Mayor of Portland and active Prohibitionist, abolitionist & advocate of women’s rights and prison reform. Tours by appointment only. M-Sat. 773-7773. nealdowmemorial.org Nickels-Sortwell House, 121 Main St., Wiscasset. Federal-style mansion, built in 1807 by ship owner and trader William Nickels with Colonial Revival furnishings and three-story elliptical stairway. Lectures: Mapping Revolutionary Maine: George Sproule’s 1772 Map, June 23; Fashion of Their Times, August 6. Jun.1-Oct 15. Open Fri-Sun. 882-7169 historicnewengland.org

MAINE SUN SOLUTIONS • (207) 781-9917 • MESUN@MAINE.RR.COM

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Summerguide Bucksport. The Society is dedicated to preserving regional film, and its Alamo Theater displays antique film and movie theater paraphernalia, as well as the Kattelle Collection, over 800 pieces of historic amateur filmmaking equipment. open Tu-Th and M & F by appointment. 469-0924 oldfilm.org

Wells Fashion Ou Owls Head Transportation Museum, 117 Museum St., Owls Head. All-American Auto Meet, Jun. 18-19; Rod, Custom and Muscle Car Cruise-in Jul. 9-10; Truck, Tractor and Commercial Vehicle Meet Jul. 23-24; Wings and Wheels Spectacular Aug. 6-7; 39th New England Auto Auction Aug. 19-20; Barnstormers Call Aug. 27; 2016 MG Raffle, Aug. 27; Vintage Motorcycle Meet, Sep. 3-4; Foreign Auto Festival, Sep. 2425. Open daily. 594-4418 owlshead.org

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Peary’s Eagle Island, Casco Bay, Harpswell.

Admiral Robert E. Peary, claimed the first man at the North Pole, kept his summer home and library here. Jun. 15-Labor Day. 624-6080 pearyeagleisland.org Penobscot Marine Museum, 5 Church St., Searsport. Maritime exhibits & history. Open daily May 23-October 16, 2016. 548-2529 penobscotmarinemuseum.org Penobscot Nation Museum, 12 Down St., Indian Island. Thousands of years of Maine Native American history, of both the Penobscot and Wabanaki peoples, as well as contemporary paintings, woodcarving, and basketry. M-Sat. 827-7776 penobscotnation.org

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Summerguide 2016 63

Summerguide

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You’d be forgiven for not knowing 2016 marked a century of ‘Maine Postcard Day.’ Celebrate with the Wish You Were Here: Communicating Maine exhibition at Penobscot Marine Museum in Searsport. Curator Carl Little pairs scenic postcards and photographs of Maine with contemporary artworks.

Portland Observatory Museum, 138 Congress St., Portland. Daily tours of America’s only remaining historic marine signal tower. Sunset tours Th 5-8 p.m. 774-5561 portlandlandmarks.org Project Puffin Visitor Center, 311 Main St., Rockland. Documenting the Audubon Society’s conservation efforts with interactive educational exhibits, including live camera feeds of the puffins and seabirds 20 miles south at the Seal Island National Wildlife Refuge. Jun.-Oct., closed July 4. 596-5566 projectpuffin.audubon.org

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Sarah Orne Jewett House, 5 Portland St., South Berwick. The author’s 1819 Georgian residence, F-Su, to Oct. 15. 384-2454 historicnewengland.org

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Seal Cove Auto Museum, 1414 Tremont Rd., Seal Cove. More than 50 beautiful vehicles from the ornate Brass Era, 1895-1917. Open daily 10am-5pm, through Oct. 31. 244-9242 sealcoveautomuseum.org Seashore Trolley Museum, 195 Log Cabin Rd., Kennebunkport. The largest electric railway museum in the world, with over 250 historic and international vehicles. Daily, Memorial Day to Columbus Day. 967-2800 trolleymuseum.org Skolfield-Whittier House, 161 Park Row, Brunswick. Seventeen-room “time capsule” with Victorian furnishings and items from sea captain Alfred Skolfield’s world voyages, W-Sa, through Columbus Day. 729-6606 pejepscothistorical.org Skyline Farm, 95 The Lane, North Yarmouth.

Over 80 carriages and sleighs from the late 18th century to the 1920s, as well as walking and riding trails, farm-related demonstrations, and riding classes. Carriage Museum Exhibit, Sun., through Aug. 17. Opened during events listed on the website and by appt. 829-9203 skylinefarm.org Stanley Museum, 40 School St., Kingfield. Dedicated to the genius of the Stanley family, inven-

6 4 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

from top: Bathers 2 and “bathers” by mary bourke, images courtesy penobscot marine museum

Roosevelt Campobello International Museum, 459 Rte. 774, Welshpool, New Brunswick, Canada. Franklin D. Roosevelt’s summer island retreat. Seven days a week to Columbus Day. (506) 752-2922 fdr.net

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tors of the Stanley Steamer, a steam-powered car that held the record for fastest automobile in the world from 1906 to 1911. Original cars and engines, as well as photography, airbrush paintings, and violins. Photographs by Chansonetta Stanley Emmons, paintings by Dorothy Emmons, and creations by other members of the Stanley family. Jun.-Oct., M-F. 265-2729 stanleymuseum.org Stanwood Wildlife Sanctuary at Birdsacre, 289 High St., Ellsworth. Former home of Cordelia J. Stanwood, Victorian-era ornithologist and wildlife photographer, now housing a sanctuary for unreleasable birds and a library of her extensive notes and photographs. Sanctuary, all daylight hours. Homestead Museum and Nature Center, Jun-Sept 667-8460 birdsacre.com

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MonaLisa Touch is a registered trademark of DEKA M.E.L.A. Srl – Calenzano - Italy.

MLTU-QTAD-A-R 1

Address • phone number • website Dr. Anne Rainville is one Address • phone number • website

of the area’s top OB/GYN

physicians and she cares MonaLisa Touch is a registered trademark of DEKA M.E.L.A. Srl – Calenzano - Italy. about your wellness. MLTU-QTAD-A-R 1 Call for an evaluation appointment, (Co-pay may apply)

207-518-6000 Your Healthcare Journey begins here and lasts a lifetime 535 Ocean Ave., Portland, Maine | www.WomensWellnessCare.com

Tate House, 1267 Westbrook St., Portland. Capt.

George Tate’s 1755 house with an unusual clerestory in the gambrel roof and an herb garden overlooking Stroudwater River. Jun.-Oct., W-Sat. 774-6177 tatehouse.org Thompson Ice House Museum, Rte. 129, South Bristol. Traditional methods of ice harvesting are employed at this historic national site. Jul-Aug. W, F, Sat. 644-8808 thompsonicehouse.com Umbrella Cover Museum, 62-B Island Ave., Peaks Island. World record holder of umbrella covers, each with a story of its own. Tu-Sun, to Labor Day. 939-0301, umbrellacovermuseum.org Victoria Mansion, 109 Danforth St., Portland.

Historic house with collections from the High Victorian period. Built 1858-1860 for New Orleans hotelier Ruggles Morse, the mansion’s interiors boast original furniture and décor.

Daily, group tours by reservation. 772-4841 victoriamansion.org

Choose an adventure to fit your style.

Casco Bay Lines offers scenic cruises to the islands off Portland’s shore–choices range from a family outing to a romantic dinner get-away. Bring your bike, kayak, or walking shoes. Explore the islands. There truly is something for everybody!

Visit www.cascobaylines.com/portlandmagoffer to download a money saving coupon.

Wadsworth-Longfellow House, 489 Congress St., Portland. Childhood home of poet Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, open daily to Oct. 31.

774-1822 mainehistory.org Wilhelm Reich Museum, 19 Orgonon Circle, Dodge Pond Rd., Rangeley. Research and living space of a colleague of Sigmund Freud, famous promoter of “orgones.” W-Sun, Jul.-Aug. 8643443, wilhelmreichtrust.org Compiled by Jeanee Dudley.

Casco Bay Ferry Terminal

56 Commercial Street • Portland, Maine • 207-774-7871 Owned and operated by the Casco Bay Island Transit District

S u m m e r g u i d e 2016 65

Music on Mt. Desert

1912

Chowder

A ta s t y bl e n d of th e fa bu lou s, notewo r thy, a n d a bsu rd.

from top: fallout 4(3); courtesy bar harbor music fest; courtesy maine baycycle; wiki; sugarloaf mountain; illustration by amelia connolly

Cyber Acadia

The video game Fallout 4, currently grossing over $750M, now stars Maine. Enter Far Harbor, a small town on an island off the coast of Maine, overrun with ghouls, monsters and…giant mutant crabs.

Far Harbor is the latest downloadable expansion ($24.99) of the popular video game, which takes place in the dystopian future of the year 2287. You can explore Mount Desert’s doppelgänger and go up against the terrifying creatures that inhabit its waters, deciding the fate of the Acadian island.

Music on Mt. Desert

This summer marks the 50th summer of the Bar Harbor Music Festival, July 3-31. International musicians wow with piano solos, pops concerts, even opera theater. Inset (l-r): Cara Chowning, pianist; Janinah Burnett, soprano; and Keith Harris, baritone will perform “Dinner at Don Juan’s” July 10 at the Bar Harbor Club.

Rio: …& Speaking of

Blame it on the map-makers. Even though Maine’s Sugarloaf Mountain (4,237 feet) is known worldwide, it’ll be overshadowed by its diminutive counterpart in Brazil this summer, thanks to the Rio Olympics. Sheila Tosta of the Rio de Janeiro Tourism Authority goes so far as to deny the existence of Maine’s mountain: “There is no Sugarloaf in the United States. It’s only in Rio de Janeiro.”

Pedal Across Casco Bay

Theirs

Ours

Maine - 4,237 ft Ireland - 1,644 ft Rio de Janeiro - 1,299 ft Florida - 312 ft.

If something deep inside you dreams of being a tipsy galley slave, you can gratify that wish (and still enjoy a cold beer on the ocean this summer), thanks to Maine Baycycles. Peaks Island’s Neil Kinner has brought this specially designed booze cruise to our waters after spending time in Portland, Oregon on a similar contraption, the “Brew Barge.” Part pedalo, part boat, the cruiser has individual pedal stations (think teamwork, bro) as well as bench seating for those who’d rather sit back and watch the others do the work. Since it’s a booze cruise, quick question: Where’s the head? Visit mainebaycycle.com.

Summerguide 2016 67

Portland a f t e r d a r k

Where’s the

T

Summer city classics In Portland, it’s not always at the trendy newcomer locales that you’ll find the really good times. Some of the city’s most tried-and-true do it best, with the characteristic warmth and laid-back atmospheres most conducive to high spirits and hedonism.

Remember those illicit backyard parties of your underage youth, the ones your friends threw while their overly trusting parents were vacationing in Italy? Blaring and rambunctious with stale Doritos and warm, flat beer in red Solo

6 8 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Dave Cleaveland - Maine Imaging

here’s something about those long and languid summer days that makes seizing the cooler nights an imperative. Portland’s Old Port offers a plethora of opportunities (despite the complaints of a few killjoy guests at nearby hotels) to get loose and loud well into the witching hours.

Party?

Where the music’s hot, where the beer’s cold, where everybody is.

By karen hofreiter

On the Beach

Old Orchard Beach is an epicenter of loud music and dancing every night of the summer. The Brunswick pub deck is the place for live music. Line-up includes: Hello Newman, June 17; Quiet Riot Act, June 19; Dan Merrill, June 24; Tickle!, July 1; Stolen Mojo, July 3; Sons of the Beach, July 10; The Inflatables, July 16; Diezel, July 23; Mitch Alden, August 1; Stolen Mojo, August 6; The Dapper Gents Duo, August 9; MB Padfield, August 16; Jodie Cunningham, August 20; The Hurricanes, August 27; Alex Roy, August 31.

Summerguide 2016 69

Portland a f t e r d a r k

On the Pier The Maine State Pier lineup for this summer includes: Dashboard Confessional, June 15; Awolnation, June 21; Barenaked Ladies, June 24; Josh Turner, June 25; Whitesnake, June 26; Melissa Etheridge, July 2; The Beach Boys, July 7; Lee Brice, July 8; 311, July 17; Slightly Stoopid, July 21; Joe Walsh, July 28; George Thorogood, August 5; Pilip Philips and Matt Nathanson, August 7; Gov’t Mule and Blackberry Smoke, August 11; Hunter Hayes, August 12; Bush and Chevelle, August 13; Dark Star Orchestra, August 14; Flogging Molly, August 16; Goo Goo Dolls, August 17; The Band Perry, August 18; Bonnie Raitt, August 19; and Blues Traveler and The Wallflowers, August 28.

February 2016).

Head just around the corner and you’ll find another deck for dancing at The Porthole (20 Custom House Wharf, Portland, (773-4653, portholemaine.com). The expansive wharf-side patio draws high-spirited hordes on balmy summer nights with live local acts, plates

In the Park

T

Thirdstory, July 3; David Mallett and

the Mallett Brothers Band, July 4 at he nightly live jams 7:30pm, followed by fireswork around coming from the 9pm; Frankie Ballard, July 23; Grace wharf-side deck at Potter, July 30; Lyle Lovett and His the Portland Lobster ComLarge Band, August 6; The Lone Bellow, August 13; The Ballroom pany (180 Commercial Street, Thieves, August 20.

Portland, 775-2112, portlandlobstercompany.com) liven up this long stretch of Commercial Street. It’s hard not to be lured over for a beer, bite, and perhaps a little boogie–if there’s space, that is–in the “crowded, hectic atmosphere” (Tripadvisor reviewer, Killington, VT, De7 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

From Top: waterfront concerts; courtesy Grace Potter; blues traveler

cember 2015). The incredibly popular lobcups? Swap these out for authentic toastster and seafood joint is almost always ed tortilla chips and local craft beer and packed with locals and tourists alike, cramthat’s exactly the vibe you’ll find on a summing in to crack lobsters and sip Mainemer’s eve at Amigos Mexican Restaurant (9 brewed summer ales, while soaking up the Dana Street, Portland 772-0772). In the outlive music lacing the fragrant sea breeze. door space out back strings of lights along “This place is straight up ROCKING what the high wood fencing, a band tucked in the seems like every day of the week during corner, and the youthful, shoulder-to-shoulpeak season.” (Yelp reviewer, Flushing, NY, der crowd create that homegrown, throwntogether-last-minute atmosphere of an authentic party. As a local party fiend put it: “The name of the place should be ‘The IT bar of the Old Port.’ It’s just dive-bar enough to scare away the high-maintenance types, the whiners, the snobs, the yuppies, and the hipsters… and the patio Every summer L.L.Bean hosts is where it’s at!” (Yelp, Septemfree concerts in Discovery ber 2015).

Park, Freeport. This year’s lineup:

Foreigner will be playing in Rangeley on July 30th with the mountains of Western Maine as the back drop.

By the Lake of briny oysters, and no-frills cocktails.

From post-work suits ditching their jackets and loosening their ties during happy hour, to slap-happy tourists already on their sixth round, there’s “plenty of people-watching:

7 2 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

young folks dressed for the clubs, old folks dancing to music...” (Yelp reviewer, El Dorado, CA, August 2013).

Another famed Portland patio sits on the rooftop of Brian Boru (57 Center Street,

Portland, 780-1506, brianboruportland. com). At this classic Irish pub, join the sea of sunglasses while guzzling Guinness or sipping cider and listening to live bands (Thursday-Sunday) cranking out everything from reggae to funk to rock and pop covers. While some may not be too keen on the craic–“a really LOUD bar” (Yelp, Wilmington, DE, September 2015)–for the rest of us, that’s the whole point. As a native Irishman raved, “This bar is without doubt one of the reasons I’d return to Portland for a night out. The rooftop bar was busy and with the live band playing the atmosphere was wonderful” (Tripadvisor, August 2015).

Really loud and really big ortland’s premier outdoor concert venues offer a slew of national acts for all tastes...as long as your taste is big, bold, and blasting. Join the 3,000 revelers at the Maine State Pier (Commercial and Franklin streets, Portland, Box Office 358-9327, waterfrontconcerts.com) and catch acts like Top-40 rapper Fat Joe (June

P

from left: photo by nick leadley, courtesy rangeley health and wellness; the porthole

Portland a f t e r d a r k

Porthole’s lineup for this summer includes: Ben Kilcollins, June 15; Dapper Duo, June 16; Northern Groove, June 17; Isaiah Bennet, June 22; Ragged Jack, June 25; Scotty Lank, June 28; Slygo Road, July 3; North of Nashville, July 16; The DumBum Show, July 28; Downeast Soul Coalition, July 29; Whiskey Militia, July 31; Marshall Nelson, August 4; Sam Shain, August 8; Jenna Pigney, August 13; Mike Krapovicky, August 16; Jim Gallant, August 19; Best Not Broken, August 25; Dean Ford & The Keepsakes, August 26; Radio Revival, August 28.

dig music next to the ocean???”

(Facebook fan, October 2015).

Weekend wind-down Just because it’s Sunday and you’re back to the grind in 12 hours doesn’t have to mean a dreary night in. Taking in a film at Congress Square Park is the perPortland Lobster Co.’s lineup for this summer fect chilled yet social last call to includes: Eric Bettencourt & Friends (every Wednesday)June a party warrior weekend. Grab 25; The Still, June 27; Conner Garvey & Friends, June 28; your camp chair and drink coolThe Shakes, June 30. July 7, Downeast Soul Coalition; July er and join the audience for classic 15, The Loud Fun; July 18, Muddy Ruckus; July 24, Mitch thrillers like North by Northwest Alden Duo; July 28, The Shakes; July 31, Free Volt. and Psycho; retro rom-coms like Breakfast at Tiffany’s and Manhattan; and for event listings) also boasts a stellar linebeloved blockbusters like E.T., Indiana Jones, up this summer. Enjoy acts like progressive and Star Wars. Laugh, cry, and get goose rock group Moe. (June 17) and the feel-good bumps in unison while the weekend slips bereggae tunes of Michael Franti & Spearhind the giant silver screen and the rush of head (June 15) while enjoying the view over traffic and pedestrians on Congress Street the Fore River and feasting on food truck fades to a peaceful lull. Portland Summer favorites from CN Shawarma and FishFilm Series (Congress Square Park, Portin’ Ships. Last summer’s concert-goers alland, portlandsummerfilms.com; see webways mention the incredible sunsets from site for schedules and times). n the open-air venue. After all, “Who doesn’t

Along the Waterfront 4); indie rock band Dashboard Confessional (June 15); and the epitome-of-summer crooners, the Beach Boys (July 7). Beyond the masses and the mammoth steel-frame stage, serene sailboats float through Casco Bay, providing an a picturesque backdrop to the revelry.

The recently reopened Thompson’s Point (Thompson’s Point Road, Portland, (207) 747-5288, statetheatreportland.com

THE GREAT LOST BEAR 78 BEERS ON TAP INCLUDING REFRESHING SUMMER BEERS 540 FOREST AVENUE PORTLAND, ME 207-772-0300 www.greatlostbear.com Summerguide 2016 73

2016 WINNER of BEST LOBSTER ROLL & RESTAURANT OUTDOOR PATIO/DECK (The Phoenix-Best of Portland) 2015 WINNER of BEST SEAFOOD (The Phoenix–Best of Portland)

H u n gry Ey e

Empire’s Lobster Longevity Noodle (wok-fried in the shell, over housevmade broad rice noodles), which is available year-round, gets a lazy summer makeover: Lobster Lo Mein is fresh-picked lobster meat, stir-fried with soba noodles, bean sprouts, and broccoli. This comfort-food dish is off-menu, so ask your server.

Lobster With a Twist Some of the cleverest chefs anywhere ply their trade here.

By Claire Z. Cramer

ashley danforth

M

aybe we thought it couldn’t get any more heavenly than truffled lobster mac & cheese at Five Fifty Five. Maybe we swooned over lobster poutine at Boone’s. Maybe sometimes all life lacks is a glass of sauvignon blanc and DiMillo’s lobster roll out on the portside deck in summer.

Think again. As long as we have the best lobsters in the world right here, we’ll have Maine chefs dreaming up new thrills for us.

Grilled Cheese With Benefits “The Lobster Melt’s on the lunch and brunch menu year-round,” says Karl Deuben, who co-owns and co-chefs with Bill Leavy at the East Ender. The popular twostory pub shares the eastern-most and hottest block of Middle Street with Duckfat, Ribollita, and the Hugo’s/Eventide/Honeypaw row. “We do it on the Pullman loaf from Southside Bakery. We make our bacon jam and a peppadew relish with fenSummerguide 2016 75

Hungry Eye

Evo’s chef Matt Ginn won the Maine Lobster Chef challenge at last year’s Harvest on the Harbor with this Turkish-style poached lobster with roasted squash and rich, eggy, handmade pasta (left). Among the judges was restaurateur/chef Harding Smith, who pronounced it “remarkable.”

At right, Empire’s Lobster Rangoons. Below, Lobster Lo Maine at the Academe Brasserie in Kennebunk is garnished with crisp bits of pork belly.

nel and other things, and there’s Pineland Farms jack cheese. Our mayo has lobster stock reduced down to essence. It’s a nice sandwich.”

Imperial Treasures e’re seated alongside a flowerpot forest of jade trees at Empire watching Congress Street’s usual circus parade. Empire runs like a clock; it has to, because it’s almost always busy. The atmosphere

Shelling Out

It’s no secret that Maine is known for its lobster, the red clawed crustacean is practically part of the state’s iconography. Now restaurants around the country are cashing in on our lobster’s sterling provenance. A Portland-based non-profit recently carried out a report based on a survey of over 7,000 American restaurants. Their findings show that eateries listing Maine caught lobster on their menus will charge on average $6.22 more for the dish.

With restaurants showing an increased interest in food sourcing, top chefs are drawn to the sustainability and local credentials of the Maine catch. And it seems diners are more than happy to fork out the extra for such a premium product.

Now that’s some elite lobster.

7 6 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Clockwise from top left: Dave Dostie - courtesy tiqa; corey templeton; meaghan maurice; courtesy academe

W

Family Operated Since 1970

36 Main Street South Freeport

Lunch Counter Open Daily 11:00-8:45

Enjoy our Fresh Seafood from our indoor dining room or our outside picnic tables!

Fresh Lobster Rolls, Maine Shrimp, Clams, Scallops & Homemade Desserts

Lobster Pound Open Daily 7:00-8:45 Lobsters, Crabs & Clams unloaded fresh daily from our boats!

Ice packs are available for your convenience.

Lunch (207) 865-4888 • Lobster (207) 865-3535 harraseeketlunchandlobster.com

is simple, elegant, and precise. The chopsticks are red lacquer, not disposable.

Our waitress sets down a square dish on which four crisp Lobster Rangoons ($8) stand at attention. They’re exceptional, filled with hot, fluffy cream cheese spiked with minced lobster and tiny bits of tobiko roe and scallion. Portland is where everything can be made more fabulous when it’s made with lobster.

Our server returns with a bamboo basket holding three steamed Lobster Dumplings ($9). We’re still exclaiming over the tasty rangoons.

“You picked some of the best things,” she murmurs, slipping away.

Go East “One Maine Roll,” commands Yosaku’s owner and sushi master extraordinaire.

Takahiro Sato stands tall, bespectacled, and perfectly straight behind the gleaming sushi bar, working in a line with his minions, deftly rolling, filling, garnishing, and plating seafood. In a moment, a Maine maki sushi roll appears.

Summerguide 2016 77

hungry eye

I

Eventide on Middle Street serves up a lobster roll a lightas-air bun, filled with lobster that’s been quickly sauteed in brown butter.

Five perfect cylinders bound with ribbons of black nori seaweed are arranged artfully on a square plate with red-leaf lettuce, pale slices of pickled ginger, and a pyramid of wasabi completing the garnish. Dainty asparagus tips and pincers of lobster claw meat rise up from the rice, avocado, and julienned cucumber in each slice. The perfect Japanese lobster roll is as far east as you can travel from a lobster shack roll–and it’s delicious. It’s $10.50.

“We make a lot of these,” says Taka-san.

Try This If you’re lucky enough to run into the guys from High Roller Lobster Co. at one of their usual haunts (hint: it’s probably a brewery), you’ll be torn between the fail-safe classic lobster rolls and the intriguing rotating specials. Look out for lobster cake burgers, lobster bagel, and their delectable “xo buns”– steamed rice buns, tender lobster, and spicy seafood and alioli sauce to garnish.“There’s also our secret menu item, The Big Rig. Our take on a Big Mac, it’s a bun with lobster, bacon, and crab cake!” says co-owner Baxter Key.

The Golden Roll Seafood flies out of Eventide’s kitchen pretty much constantly starting around noon.

It’s also around noon that every seat and stool is occupied and will likely remain so until closing time at midnight. It takes a

Bayside American Café makes a mean lobster eggs benedict (left).

Harbor Fish Market attracts the tourists, and it’s the go-to spot for locals and chefs to pick up fresh seafood.

7 8 p o r t l a n d mo n thly m a g a z i n e

Clockwise from top left: Anna Huizi; baxter key(3); corey templeton; courtesy bayside american cafe

Frisky Bisque t’s no secret that Maine Lobster Bisque is one of our rewards for living in a place where it might snow in April.

At shiny new Scales on Commercial Street they’ve taken bisque someplace truly exotic.

“There’s been a little bit of blow-back,” says chef Michael Smith. “You know, that we’re not making the sludgy version with a ton of cream. Traditional food is like Thanksgiving food–people have their set expectations.

“We make the lobster stock with the shells.

We use tomatoes. The base is onion, celery root, thyme, bay leaf, a little smoked paprika, and sunchokes [Jerusalem artichoke]. I like what sunchokes and lobster do together. We deglaze with a good fino sherry. We only add a bit of cream before serving.”

Scales’s bisque is spicy, nuanced, and more exciting than its simple Yankee forebear–as if the soup pot had snuck off to Marseille on vacation. But it’s served with house-made, hexagonal, flaky-crisp oyster crackers, as if to promise you it hasn’t forgotten where it comes from. It’s $9 a cup.

Lobstering & Lighthouse Cruises 1-Hour lobstering & ligHtHouse tour • 1.5-Hour eco-tour 2- Hour sunset cruise • 3-Hour sunday Morning ligHtHouse cruise

C amDen h arbor C ruises D eparting C amDen a boarD LiveLy LaDy

Learn about sea life as we haul our lobster trap • Touch tank See lighthouses, schooners, yachts, mansions & wildlife up close Comfortable, shaded seating • Happy Hour Cruises • Private charters available

book onLine:

www.CamdenharborCruises.com

reserve by pHone 207.236.6672 or visit our tiCket booth at 2 public landing, caMden, Me 04843

Oysters make everything even better.

Hire us to operate our mobile oyster bar at your next occasion.

Find more information on our website or contact us directly. www.Ooysters.com 207-632-7247 –Lucas

Latitude 43° 45’ 1”

Check out our website @

az

am

Wh ere

al

l

n c e e i ! r e p x e g in

t th a gre

together for one e m co ings

cookslobster.com

to see our new menu and weekly entertainment line up!

mark your calendar

for “Cook’s Concerts On The Point”—including Motor Booty, Moon Dawgs and Stream!

Motor Booty Saturday, July 2 7pm–9:30pm

Moon Dawgs Saturday, July 23 7pm–9:30pm

Visit our newly renovated and expanded pub with 16 draft lines—including some of Maine’s top beers.

Beer flights, specialty drinks and delicious food!

Stream reggae band Saturday, August 27 7pm–9:30pm

Longitude -69° 59’ 32” Summerguide 2016 79

DOCKS

FISH MARKET and SEAFOOD RESTAURANT

Se a food

"The Freshest Seafood from the Docks"

Local Seafood Favorites Our Own

Lobster Ravioli Pan-Seared Crab Cakes Finnan Haddie Baked Stuffed Haddock Baked Stuffed Lobster Lobster Mac ‘n Cheese Lobster Pie Haddock Reuben

!

N

pen ow O

DOCKS BOATHOUSE 472 Elm Street Biddeford 286-1600

Baked, Grilled, Fried & Steamed Seafood!

9 Hot Chowders Now Available!

HAPPY HOUR 3-6pm • Always BYOB

We Ship - Next Day Air! - New Lower Rates!

Open 7 Days 9am - 8pm

Corner of Broadway & Evans, South Portland • 899-4433 • DocksSeafood.com

8 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

ELIZABETH PRIOR Silver, Gold & Glass Latitude & Longitude

www.epriordesign.com

Fore River Gallery 87 Market Street, Portland

Hun g ry E ye good-sized staff to keep this machine running as smoothly as it does. A bartender, a cold-plate garnishing ace, and a ponytailed whippet shucking oysters are in perpetual motion. Servers crisscross the floor with lobster rolls, fancy crudo, foamy draft beers, and tray upon tray of oysters resting on beds of crushed ice and rockweed. he Eventide Brown Butter Lobster Roll is now so ridiculously popular that it’s trademarked on the menu.

“We took the mayo version off the menu,” says my server. “It was like, why bother?”

When asked how many brown butter rolls they’ll make for this Saturday lunch, she says, “Oh, I don’t know. Maybe 300?”

The roll is steamed and tender, a featherweight vessel for the lobster meat–bathed in sweet, nutty brown butter–that’s piled into it. A manageable splurge of a $14 lunch.

T

They Ask Why Not Shanna and Brian O’Hea, chefs and owners of the Academe Brasserie & Tavern in the Kennebunk Inn, know how to have

Handcrafted Italian Food Monday-Saturday from 5pm 41 Middle Street, Portland | 774.2972 | ribollitamaine.com

Family Owned & Operated

Bayley’s Lobster Pound and The Bait Shed Restaurant & Bar 9 Avenue 6, Pine Point, Scarborough, Maine | www.BAYLEYS.com | 207-883-4571 Summerguide 2016 81

Open for the 2016 Season!

17 years in business with the same owners All You Can Eat Lobster!

Starting in July

(call for starting date) Hook's Lobster Dinner SINGLE - One 1 1/8 lb. Lobster TWIN - Two 1 1/8 lb. Lobsters TRIPLE - Three 1 1/8 lb. Lobsters

New England Lobster Bake Dinner Single 1Âź lb. Lobster Steamers and Mussels New England Clam Chowdah Corn on the Cob Drawn Butter

All served with corn on the cob, potato & drawn butter Come enjoy a

SOUTHERN STYLE BBQ Cooked on a Wood Fired Smoker!

We make our lobster and crabmeat rolls to order with all fresh meat, never frozen.

We make them to order with mayo or no mayo, with hot drawn butter or no butter, with grilled meat or cold, on a grilled roll!

2118 Post Road (Route 1), Wells, ME • 207-646-6646

Get Hooked on the Freshest Seafood in Southern Maine

fun with the beautiful dishes they create.

Their award-winning Lobster Pot Pie has been featured on the Food Network show Best Thing I Ever Ate and the Travel Channel’s Food Paradise. Poached lobster meat, peas, corn, potatoes are topped with pastry. “Yes I do make the puff pastry, and it’s hand rolled–very old school,” says Shanna.

“And yes, Lobster Pot Pie will forever be on our menu.”

But why stop there? “Now we have our Lobster White Truffle Pizza which was featured in Oprah Magazine. We also have our Lobster Lo Maine–chilled lobster and miso noodles garnished with crispy Asian pork belly.”n

LobsterShirt.net

lobsterfrommaine.com

hun g ry e y e

Kittery, Maine

~Everyday Special~

Fine Cotton Polo Shirts with the Lobster Logo Hats Too!

$5 OFF $25 OR MORE Appetizers, entrees, desserts or any combination of the three!!

You choose any food item(s) on the menu totaling $25 or more and we’ll take $5 off!

Liquor and tax not included. Cannot be used in combination with any other discount or coupon, group package. Maximum of 3 coupons/discounts per group-$25 per coupon must be spent. Not Valid on Holidays. Please present coupon before ordering. Coupon valid only at time of purchase.

Expires 9/30/16 C-PM Manager Signature Required__________________ C-PM

$2 OFF A POUND OF CANDY

Early Week Special…Monday-Thursday Pete’s Stateline Sweets is located in Warren’s Gift Shop Tax not included. One coupon per person/purchase. Not Valid on Holidays. Please present coupon before ordering. Coupon valid only at time of purchase. Expires 9/30/16

Enjoy a Picturesque Setting on the Water.

11 Water St. Kittery, ME 207-439-1630~www.lobsterhouse.com

F.O. Goldthwaite’s

Pool Lobster

in scenic Biddeford Pool

Full Take-Out Menu • Grilled & Fried Seafood Lobster Rolls • Soups • Salads • Entrees Fresh Lobsters, Steamers, Mussels ~ Live or cooked to order Great Selection of Wines and Beer Take-out or eat in our scenic ocean-view picnic area Open Daily for Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner from 7AM www.poollobster.com Phone orders welcome Lobsters packed & shipped overnight nationwide

Full Take-Out Menu

Grilled & Fried Seafood Lobster Rolls

Soups • Salads • Entrees

Like us on

at Goldthwaite’s/Pool Lobster

Fresh Lobsters, Steamers, Mussels ~Live or cooked to order

3 Lester B. Orcutt Blvd. • Biddeford Pool • 207-284-5000

Great Selection of Wines and Beer Take-Out or eat in our scenic ocean-view picnic area Open Daily from 11:30am Lunch & Dinner

WWW.POOLLOBSTER.COM Phone orders welcome Lobsters packed & shipped overnight nationwide Like us on

at Goldthwaite’s/Pool Lobster

3 Lester B Orcutt Blvd. • Biddeford Pool 207-284-5000

www.lobstershacktwolights.com Summerguide 2016 83

a ralrol o mP PPa rlrosrrss a ma m a

1I00ceIIccee Cre p 0 o 1 T 1 CrCe re ToTpo p

Among our fiavors Among Amongour ourfiavors fiavors

Strawberry Basil • Sweet Avocado Cayenne • Chai Cardamom Strawberry StrawberryBasil Basil• Sweet • SweetAvocado AvocadoCayenne Cayenne• Chai • ChaiCardamom Cardamom Goat Cheese Blackberry Chambord • Molasses Gingersnap!

Goat GoatCheese CheeseBlackberry BlackberryChambord Chambord• Molasses • MolassesGingersnap!

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o b s e ssions

from top: Francois Gagne, courtesy LandVest(3); maine imaging, courtesy landvest

Outer Green Island Sebago Lake

A private island is the gateway to a true summer escape. Find your own parcel of paradise on Maine’s scattered coastline.

P

rivate islands dot Maine’s rocky coastline, from Casco Bay to Mount Desert. Why buy a home in crowded Bar Harbor when you can own a private island for a fraction of the cost? As one seller put it, on an island, “you are the master of your own kingdom.”

Of the 3,166 islands in Maine, more than

By jackie murray & sherwood olin

half are privately owned. Below we’ve listed the best Maine has to offer. After you’ve finished reading, maybe you’ll decide it’s time to be the master of your own kingdom.

Outer Green

Sebago Lake, Casco, 9 Acres At the very top of Sebago Lake there lies

an unsung archipelago known as Dingley Islands. Bring your boat ashore on the sandy crescent beach of Outer Green Island, turn around, and you’ll have uninterrupted views across the expanse of Sebago to the White Mountains beyond. Extensive trails wend their way through the mature birch and pine forests to the two-bedroom cotSummerguide 2016 89

obsessions tage at the heart of the island’s nine acres.

Seller Shawn Flanagan has owned Outer Green for 18 years, finding it “the perfect place to watch the kids grow up over the years.” Such are Outer Green’s charms, the previous owners also found the island worth a cross-country pilgrimage. “They’d drive their RV all the way from California to live here for the summer,” Flanagan says.

D

espite the undeniable beauty of the landscape, Flanagan admits his favorite place on the island is actually “the living room, with that massive stone fireplace and seating all around. It’s a very comfortable place, and we’ve enjoyed a lot of good moments there as a family.” If you can drag yourself away from this cozy den, you’ll be spoiled by the numerous swimming spots and sun-dappled paths through the forest. Keep an eye out for the many deer and their fawns that roam here. “You’ve got the sandy southern beach facing out over Sebago Lake. When it gets stormy and the wind picks up, you can just go to the bay on the north side and you’re totally sheltered,” Flanagan says. With the diverse landscape and luxurious winterized cabin, you’ve truly got a sanctuary for all seasons.

Sand Island

Casco Bay, Cumberland, 1.5 acres “Location is everything,” Jeff England says.

And he should know, as the owner of a private island smack in the middle of Casco Bay for quarter of a century. “Islands this pristine are rare, especially with its sandy beach, rocky coast, and proximity to Portland.” Positioned perfectly between Chebeague and Cliff Islands, Sand Island catches stirring views of the mega-yachts and sailboats bound for Portland Harbor from Harpswell. “Generations can pass by before any island like this becomes available.”

With expansive sandy beaches more akin to a Caribbean island than a Maine one, Sand Island has drawn attention from House and Garden magazine, who who dreamed out loud, “What is more deliciously indulgent than…sitting in their shirtsleeves and shorts, sifting the sand with their toes, watching the children discover the joy of piling up rocks?”

The island’s deepwater anchorage is ideal for a boat owner. There are no lodgings on the island, apart from the “bomba shack,” a basic wooden structure on the shore. You

can use Sand Island as your $2.5M sunbathing spot and make 30-minute boat trips to the hotels of downtown Portland.

According to England, “If Casco Bay is the oyster, then Sand Island is the one and only natural pearl.”

So attractive is it, “Once I took my son to the island and saw that some ‘visitors’ had had a bachelor party there” the night before.

Carefully, “My son and I went around the north tip of the island. I can’t tell you what we saw.”

Rocky Crest

Great Moose Lake, Hartland, 6 acres, $229,900 “To make a long story short, it’d been broken into by a bunch of kids–it was a wreck.”

This was how current Rocky Crest Island owner David Dean found the island when he first visited. He convinced the previous owner, who’d been absent from the island for several years, to sell it to

Sand Island Casco Bay

courtesy Jeff England

$2.5M

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him. Today, the island’s rustic 1920s cabin remains in its traditional rustic state, though updated by Dean with thermal windows and a new roof.

T

he sunsets are just rip-your-heartout gorgeous,” Dean says. “At night after twilight, all you can hear is the loons calling from across the lake. It’s very primitive. It’s haunting.” And the loons might not be the only ones haunting the island. One night, Dean and his friends ventured on a fishing trip. One of his pals owned a local brewery, so he brought a keg along. They enjoyed part of it, fell asleep, and woke to find the keg tipped over and empty. “Overnight, the winds must’ve picked up,” he says, a sense of something spooky lingering in the air.

If a thirsty ghost doesn’t scare you, Rocky Crest might be just perfect. “People who buy islands are different,” Dean says. “There’s something about an island that can real9 2 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

ly get you in touch nature.” With one of the best environments for bald eagles in Maine, warm and cold-water fish swimming in the waters, and plenty of space for island hikes, getting in touch with nature shouldn’t be too hard. Aptly named “Rocky Crest,” the house is perched just above large, gray rocks that serve as the perfect diving board for a hot August swim. Mid-dive, time stops and you’re there forever. “It’s really something everyone should experience,” Dean said.

Little Freese Deer Isle, 7 Acres

When Paul and June Farrow took a boat across the water from Deer Isle to Little Freese with their realtor in 1998, it was a bleak and freezing February morning. “The island was entirely ringed with ice,” notes Paul. Regardless, their connection with the place was “spontaneous and emotional.”

Visit Little Freese in summer and you’ll find conditions a lot more hospitable. In

2000, the Farrows built an airy, gabled three-bedroom house in a clearing in the heart of the island. Pine-paneled, with large thermal windows, the house needs next to no work to make it ready for a family to move in. Expect the kids to fight over the rights to the mezzanine bedroom, accessible only by ladder. The spacious living and dining areas beg to be filled with guests drinking and feasting on a summer evening. Paul recommends interrupting the festivities at dusk to run to the shoreline. “Looking west, you can see the sun setting on the horizon through a gap in the cove.”

The island is also a perfect fit for an artist.

The original owner, a sculptor, built what is now the boathouse on the southeastern corner of the island, its second floor devoted entirely to studio space. On the mainland, Little Freese boasts a private boat launch off Sunshine Road. Next to the launch is a large barn with sliding glass doors, which Paul says “would make an ideal gallery space.”

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TheisGlass Housespacious, is inspired by home located 11 m The Glass House a wonderfully modern hile at Cornell University theElaine Resor which was deMedical College in New Bernie and Dahl,House, have enjoyed the house and gardens for five yea signed by revolutionary York City in the early 1960s, I fellThis in one-of-a-kind, 3,300+ SF home is notBauhaus for everyone: It requires an ap architect Mies van Zen dergardens, Rohea cook’s in love with the inescapable drama views, riverfront and hot tub decks, kitchen, superb is ready for new owners who 1937 to straddle a creek in Jackof the Seagram Building, desuite, creative lighting, the finest of building techniques and materials, son Hole, Wyoming. desire open space, simple signed by Mies van der Rohe and The Glass House must be experienced to be appreciated. Qualified bu For details of this one-of-aPhilip Johnson. With its unbroken elegance, and plenty of Dr. Dahl kind at (207) 223-9998 or 745-7272 or is FreedomGroupUSA@aol.c home, 3,300+ SF home only height of bronze and glass, I de11 miles from Bangor. Contact: cided at that time world.

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Panoramic Views • Riverfront • Hot Tub Decks • Zen Garden 9 4 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

o b s e ssions

Clapboard Isla nd Casco Bay

Courtesy david banks remax by the bay

$5.5M

And it’s just a short drive down the road to take a class at the internationally renowned Haystack Mountain School of Crafts.

But you don’t need to be an artist to appreciate the natural beauty of the island.

Over 2,600 feet of coastal paths ring the island’s diverse shoreline of pink granite rock, sandy beaches, and muddy mussel beds. A favorite spot is “The Rock,” a granite outcrop jutting from the southwest point of the island. “We carry chairs and sit there watching the sun set, facing the Deer Isle thoroughfare. You’ll see windjammers and sometimes two- or threemasted ships sailing into the bay.” You might even have some impromptu company. “There are loons, eagles, mink. Often, a mother seal will leave her pup on the rocks for hours while she hunts.”

Stretch your legs by taking a stroll across the causeway to “Freeselet,” a tiny additional island on the eastern shore. Completely undeveloped, it’s the perfect place to take a picnic break from your painting studio.

Clapboard

Casco Bay, Falmouth, 22 acres

B

uilt in 1898, the historic estate on Clapboard Island West boasts 10 bedrooms, 13 working fireplaces, seven full baths, two half baths, and a large stone pier. A mere six miles north of downtown Portland, it’s just a short boat ride from Falmouth Town Landing or the Old Port. If you’re traveling from further afield, never fear: The property has its own helipad.

Six miles may not seem far from the rest of civilization, but the island is surrounded by 40 sheltered square miles of Casco Bay, perfect for deepwater sailing. According to a 1929 ad for the island, this body of water was recorded as “several degrees warmer than at nearby ocean resorts.”

This is Maine, so it’s prob-

ably still pretty cold.

Philadelphia philanthropist Samuel F. Houston commissioned 100 artisans to build the home in 1898. His father ran the Pennsylvania Railroad, allowing him access to swift transportation of materials from all over the United States, including beautiful Oregon pine that still glows in the vast structure today. Since then, modern amenities have been added to the property, including solar-powered electricity and a genera-

Summerguide 2016 95

tor. But you can still enjoy the original, classic feel of the place with the authentic period furniture that fills the house. Outside, take your pick of five swimming beaches and stretch your legs along the maintained trails that follow the 3,200 feet of shorefront.

If one island isn’t enough for you, Little Clapboard Island, accessible from the mainland at low tide, is included in the price. For less than a Manhattan condo, you can own two beautiful islands in Casco Bay.

T $349,000

Two Mile Island Piscataquis County

wo Mile Island, true to its name, sits just a couple of miles from several boat landings on the shores of Moosehead Lake. Which, incidentally, also lives up to its name: “One day we looked up to see a moose on our lawn. It must’ve swum over,” owner Austin de Groat tells us. “We had to make the dog chase it away. It swam right back across the lake.”

Nature comes alive here. “The beavers took down all our white birches one summer. And it was a bat nursery for a long time. It was home to hundreds of bats.” But don’t let that put you off–De Groat assures us the bats are now long gone.

The island became a local recreation destination in the 1940s when Al Wheat, a retired Seabee who’d served in the Pacific in World War II, turned it into a camp for hunters and fishermen. Fishing remains a favorite pastime for visitors. “The lake is crystal clear, deep, and a great habitat for lake trout, salm-

Family-Owned Old World Butcher Shop & Market

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austin de groat

nd Two-mile Isla Lake Moosehead

obs e s s i o n s

Looking from the southern shore of Sebec Lake, you’ll spot a large cottage that appears to be floating on the water but is in fact perched on .11 acres of ocean granite. Finally, a secluded nook where you can eat your lunch in a spacious, pine-paneled kitchen before diving from the granite rocks on your front step, straight into the glassy waters of Sebec Lake. With its own two-acre

175 artists and photographers Student Art Tent

Sebec Lake, Dover-Foxcroft, 2.11 acres, $339,000

Kids in the Park 10 to 2

Phoebe Island

Art by Miranda Young

on, and bass, among other species,” de Groat says. The rich waters of this part of the lake, known has Lily Bay, carry the nickname “salmon shoal.”

If fishing isn’t your forte, the island’s uniquely sandy shores provide a sunny outdoor alternative, perfect for a midday picnic. The lodge itself boasts solar power, high-speed internet, spacious rooms, and a stone fireplace made up of rocks and shells that the original owner brought back from his tour of duty in the Pacific.

South Portland’s 37th Annual Art in the Park Show & Sale

Saturday, August 13th 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.

Mill Creek Park, South Portland, ME

(Continued on page 221)

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FIND THE R O O M S R E STAURANTS ON: Summerguide 2016 97

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1 0 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

road wa r r i o r

ing

Acadia You may have been told what Acadia is, but it’s much more vast and much more inclusive than many of us imagine.

Your Guides: Christina Baker Kline, Sarah Moore & Colin W. Sargent.

Summerguide 2016 101

1.What many think Acadia is:

Kim Seng

“It’s the Roosevelts’ backyard, the most beautiful attraction in the world.

It’s completely inside the borders of Acadia National Park, celebrating its 100th birthday this year!”

1 0 2 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

road wa r r i o r

2. What Acadia really is: Mi’kmaq suffix: akadie. French: “La Cadie.”

“Acadia (French: Acadie) was a colony of New France in northeastern North America that included parts of eastern Quebec, the Maritime provinces, and modern-day Maine to the Kennebec River.”

–William Williamson The History of the State of Maine. Vol. 2. 1832 Translation: 1) Acadia is the coastal sweep from Bath and north to embrace all of maritime Canada. Seen this way, Acadia is an undiscovered part of yourself.

Events Visions of Acadia National Park: July 1-29 Visions of Acadia National Park at Southwest Harbor Public Library shows how artists saw or were interested in the same magnetic vistas, portrayed them differently, or strayed to another area of the park for a stunningly different experience. Includes drawings, engravings, paintings, and photographs from 1864 to this very second. 244-7065

Animals of Acadia in Bronze July 1 Bronze sculptor David Smus shares his love of Acadia in his presentation, “Animals of Acadia in Bronze” at ART on West Gallery. Included will be his latest, entitled “Kit and Caboodle” in a limited edition of only 30: a red fox vixen and kits mounted on Deer Isle Granite that was quarried near Acadia National Park. 288-9428 Miniatures for the Centennial July 1-31 Guest artist Michael Chesley Johnson, noted painter, workshop instructor, and arts writer, has spent the winter creating two dozen small oils of Acadia National Park to commemorate this special year. On show at Argosy II. 288-9226

Summerguide 2016 103

Acadia Exclusive, inclusive.

M

by colin w. sargent

The earlier, more cosmopolitan sense of Acadia has been diminished summer by summer, year by year, because of English conquest and, frankly, Francophobia.

Before there was a Bar Harbor, the lost settlement of Saint-Saveur, a Jesuit mission, was the dreamy capital of Mount Desert Island.

In the deadly raid of 1613, English forces swept over the Jesuit mission. Samuel Argall (who captured and imprisoned Pocahontas) led the bloody attack, resulting in the murder of Saint-Saveur founder 1 0 4 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Brother Gilbert Du Thet (1575-1613), killing many others in the process.

The vanishing of Acadia had begun. Conquering historians are experts at forgetting.

Best not to say Acadie above a whisper. It sounded so French, an unpleasant reminder of what the English did to wrest control of the area. Faster than quicklime erases the traces of a dead body, Acadia began to lose traction. But rest assured, before this attack, Acadia was a real and not a fabled place, its incomprehensibly vast dominions extending “roughly between the 40th and

50th parallels,” according to period documents from the French government. Its inhabitants included tribes of the Wabanaki Confederacy and French settlers, the Acadian people who would later be deported by the British during the French and Indian War. Some of them made it to New Orleans, where they would become known as “Cajuns,” the very term Cajun a bastardization of “Acadian.”

Turns out, we’re all Acadians When you talk about the 40th parallel and

from left: Greg Hartford; william burgess

ost Mainers and visitors think of Acadia as simply Acadia National Park near Bar Harbor. It’s an exquisite jewel parkland of 74.15 square miles, underwritten by the Rockefeller family (mindful of the sweeping views, environmental benefits, and infinite tax-writeoff possibilities). In today’s relaxed geography, a softer definition of Acadia might venture to the borders of Mount Desert Island.

That’s because that larger sense of “Acadie” has been endangered for over 400 years. That’s right, Acadia is shrinking.

Road road warr io r

First Contact

M

north, you’re including a sweep from New Jersey right up the coast into Canada. This was New France, more particularly Acadie.

Turns out, Acadia isn’t just a park, it’s a mind-dazzling coastal spirit.

G

oing through the Portland public school system, I was never told about the English raid on SaintSauveur. Instead, we learned how horrible it was for the English to have expelled the fictional Evangeline from her home, which thankfully was in Canada, so we United

States survivors of the British narrative didn’t have to feel guilty about it.

This shrinking maneuver kept Acadia out of Maine entirely, but for the nominal coincidence of tiny Acadia National Park.

This wiping out of Maine’s Frenchness, not to mention its pre-existing Wabanaki identities, is at the bottom of this feature story. At the top of it is fun, because to understand Acadia is a chance to know the place you love as never before.

eet Mark Hedden, 86. He’s the archaeologist who discovered new petroglyph sites in remote corners of Machias Bay that surprise with images of European ships. Inspired by these carvings, he has written exquisitely about “first European contact” between the first Mainers and the trading vessels of the early 17th century.

To those who first saw them from Maine’s cliffs and shores, these ships must have seemed more alarming than space ships.

Hedden’s vision: With every peck and scratch these shamans made into the stone to create these startling ship pictographs, they were losing magic themselves by documenting that such a thing existed.

The concept of “contact,” a precise term for historians and archaeologists, must be particularly dear to Hedden now. He was in the news three years ago for having lost contact himself as he hiked in his 118-acre wilderness tract behind his house in Vienna, Maine, disappearing for hours. He independently found his way home–just ahead of the Warden Service dogs, firefighters, and ATVs that had been called in to comb the woods for him. More recently, he broke his hip and has struggled with a lengthy stay in the hospital, fighting to come home. “I’m getting his study ready and trying to order his materials, in the hope he’ll get back to work here soon,” his wife, Carol, says.

What Hedden has already given us is precious. In “Contact Period Petroglyphs in Machias Bay, Maine,” published in the journal Archaeology of Eastern North America, Hedden describes “two previously unrecorded petroglyph sites in Machias Bay containing Native American representations of 17th-century sailing vessels.” They are his discoveries.

“To a cultural historian the sites are important because the ships and associated designs give clues to what was going on in the minds of the Native Americans.”

Heddon believes the Machias stone engravings are part of an unbroken artistic tradition going back to 3,000 years. Of this “lost picture show starring the European ships,” he writes: “There are good matches for the su(Continued on page 107)

Summerguide 2016 105

Explore Maine! with help from the

Looking for places to hike, bike, swim, paddle, and more?

DOWNLOAD OUR FREE APP! “NRCM Environment” You’ll find nearly special places to explore.

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Available on iTunes and Google Play or visit the Explore Maine map at www.nrcm.org

1 0 6 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

EXPLORE MAINE

2015 SPECIAL EDITION

ORIN FALLS, ON PROPOSED NATIONAL PARK LANDS

BY NRCM/E.THEBERGE

Explore Maine’s Great Outdoors

Works by NRCM Members Help You Discover More about the Nature of Maine

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Looking for some great new places to discover?

Events to experience? world? Your fellow NRCM Opportunities that may members can help. Our change the way you see new Explore Maine publication supporters, as a way to the natural highlights books, blogs, encourage you to explore and much more by our a part of Maine you’ve our great state. This year’s yet to discover, or to rediscover edition highlights contemplations what you already love shares her personal experience and recommendations about

by NRCM Board Member in the Maine Master Naturalist Karen Herold, who Perhaps you are an author?

Program, her work on conservation projects An artist? An explorer? in her town, and more.

If so, please send us information our website. Send your information to nrcm@nrcm.org. about your work so we can make it available on

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Map: Staff Picks!

Looking for great places to hike, bike, swim, picnic, paddle, ski, watch wildlife, relax and enjoy Maine’s or just beautiful scenery? Visit the Explore Maine map where you’ll find more on our website, than 100 special places that have been protected Land for Maine’s Future through the program. New to the map: NRCM staff and board dozens of their own personal have provided recommendations for places to explore throughout Maine.

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A Stringed Gift A proposed donation of 87,500 acres of land to the federal government from Burt’s Bees co-founder Roxanne Quimby has sparked an increasingly heated debate. The gift, if accepted, would secure national monument status for a parcel of land east of Baxter State Park.

During his time in The White House, President Obama has used his executive power under the 1906 Antiquities Act to grant several million acres of land monument status across Nevada, Texas, and California, tapping the brakes on development and environmental degradation in the area. The issue has highlighted a divide between those who wish to preserve the area around Baxter from deforestation, and the owners and employees of local mills who rely on the lands for their resources. We’ve heard from rusticators, environmentalists, sportsmen, local businesses, mill-dependent local families, and more who desire their voices to be heard on this issue. Isn’t democracy great? We welcome your opinion. Watch this (87,500-acre) space to see if it does indeed become Maine Woods National Park.

Arcadia

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Wrapped in History

You know you’ve made it when Pendleton designs a blanket after you. Celebrate the centennial of Acadia National Park in style.

Pendleton Mills created their first National Park blanket in 1916, the same year the Park Service was born. Today, each national park has its own design. Acadia boasts a striking red and black combination. Blanket: $259; Tote $199.

greenville ,

piscataquis county Picked By Todd Martin, Grassroots Outreach Coordinator Hiking trails run along Little Moose Mountain, offering opportunities including at undeveloped ponds, wildlife watching, and primitive modest day-hiking, fishing hike-in camping in a scenic, Favorite Season(s) to Visit: remote setting.

Summer and fall Activities: Hiking, photography Why It’s Special: I hiked Little Moose Mountain for the first time two summers by the views of Moosehead ago and was blown away Lake and the surrounding mountains. The trail is well-maintained beautiful stone staircases leading to the summit. and has Tips: I recommend stopping for a dip in Moosehead Lake at the public dock for an ice cream at the dairy downtown, and swinging bar on Main Street afterwards. by More info and directions: http://www.mainetrailfinde r.com/trails/trail/little-moos e-mountain

More staff picks on page

4

vs. Acadia:

What’s in a Name To chart the evolution of popular understanding, consider: “The origin of the designation Acadia is credited to the explorer Giovanni da Verrazzano, who on his 16th century map applied the ancient Greek name ‘Arcadia’ to the entire Atlantic coast north of Virginia...” according to Wikipedia.

“Arcadia derives from the Arcadia district in Greece which since Classical antiquity had the extended meanings of ‘refuge’ or ‘idyllic place.’ The site goes on to quote

National Park Service: Kristi Rugg. Inset from left: courtesy pendleton; penobscot culture.com; maineencyclopedia.com; bibliorare.com. Story Sources: Abbe Museum, Wikipedia, Pendleton Wools.

Natural Resources Council of Maine

Road road warr io r

The sense of a ‘lost Acadia’ is romantic, but the threat of a shrinking Acadia is dangerous.

First Contact (continued from page 105)

perstructure in English, Dutch and Flemish galleons constructed between 1585 and 1590, all of which are marked by forecastles set back from the bow, curved up beaks and bowsprits which rise forward and out from the forecastle. On these large, threemasted ships, details of the stern castle, hull and rigging differ from those of a single-masted vessel. Perhaps the best overall match among the illustrations in the sources consulted is a smaller ship, called the Cromster by the Dutch, with a main mast and smaller mizzen, a fore-stay sail and sprit-sails from the main and mizzen masts. In this variety, a ship used in Elizabethan England and the Netherlands into the beginning of the seventeenth century, the rounded hull had a sharply raked stern castle that extended forward somewhat less than half the length of the main deck. The short, turned-up beak that gave the Cromster its Dutch name (from cromsteven–a bent or crooked stem) is much closer to the beak represented in the petroglyph than to the far more elaborate beaks featured on larger ships of the period.”

Building his case spar by spar, Hedden allows himself an educated guess:

“A Three Penobscots with m’teoulin, supernatural powers. From left: Governor John Neptune, Molly Molasses, and Molly Spotted Elk. Mystical reading: Old John Neptune and Other Maine Indian Shamans, by Fannie Hardy Eckstorm; Molly Spotted Elk: A Penobscot in Paris, by Bunny McBride; Orphan Train, by Christina Baker Kline.

A sculpture you must visit: Molly Molasses, a bronze on view at Jud Hartmann Gallery, Blue Hill.

from The Dictionary of Canadian Biography: “Another interesting note is the similarity in the pronunciation of Acadie and the Míkmawísimk suffix -akadie, which means ‘a place of abundance.’ The modern usage is still seen in place names such as Shunacadie (meaning: place of abundant cranberries) or Shubenacadie (meaning: place of abundant wild potatoes). It is thought that intercultural conversation between early French traders and Mi’kmaq hunters may have resulted in the name

‘l’Arcadie’ being changed to ‘l’Acadie.’”

Just as a river has a portage, this story has a takeaway: The magic of Acadia and its original geography sweeps across time and culture to include a coastal region extending far beyond Acadia National Park. Originally, this sense of Acadia extended all the way to Virginia. It’s a bit mind-bending to ponder that you can be both “from away” and still from Acadia at the same time. Acadia is a beautiful word, a growth stock. The term is yours to chase if you want it. n

review of historical accounts of European voyages from the sixteenth through the first half of the seventeenth century shows that documented voyages to Machias Bay fall into two periods when French or English vessels are likely to have visited during the first half of the seventeenth century…The earliest may have occurred between 1604 and 1606 when Sieur de Monts, with Champlain as his lieutenant and cartographer, explored the coast from the St. Croix River southward as far as Cape Cod. They sought potential settlement locations that were more amenable than their initial (1604) wintering site at the mouth of the St. Croix River. Champlain, who was a meticulous draftsman, made charts of the coast and all suitable harbors he visited…Machias Bay is not among them, and Champlain may never have visited the upper reaches of the bay.

However, de Monts and Champlain also operated independently. The petroglyph representation of a small, single-masted vessel with a square sail associated with a large Christian cross before the bow at site 62.1 may refer to a separate visit by de Monts at about this time.”n Summerguide 2016 107

The Obamas

The First Family caused an unusual furor among the resolutely non-starstruck residents of Mount Desert Island when they spent a weekend in Bar Harbor in 2011. Below, the family hiked Cadillac Mountain to watch the first rays of sunrise.

Playg round of the

Rich & Famous

The true historical scope of Acadia, sweeping north from Bath to the border of Canada, has hosted some of the world’s most famous names within its borders.

I

t was Acadia’s rugged shores and startling natural beauty that first drew artists from the Hudson River School of painting to Maine during the 19th century.

Their romantic renderings of Acadia’s wild beauty, and the popularity of the “luminism” painting movement that they championed, began to attract the wealthy families of industrialists and traders, keen to claim their corner of this pristine summer retreat.

These well-heeled summer visitors flocked from Boston, Philadelphia, and New York City to the shores of Acadia, where they began competing with one another 1 0 8 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

to build the most palatial estates and enviable gardens, sealing Acadia’s reputation as a getaway for the upper echelons of society.

The seasonal influx was so dramatic, the visitors even garnered their own label: “rusticators.” Of this illustrious crowd, several names jump out: the Roosevelts, the Astors, and the DuPonts. The crown of America’s mercantile aristocracy have all summered in the area over the years, gilding Acadia with the luster of their wealth and mystery.

Perennial summer visitor Norman Mailer was an acute observer of both the people and the geography that defined this area.

Norman Mailer on Otter Cliffs “I had heard the growl of black waters on black rock at Otter Cliffs,” Mailer writes in Harlot’s Ghost, in a vignette he later reprised for Esquire. Challenged climb to the sheer, slippery monument as a rite of passage, the young Mailer risked a look down during his ascent and was scared out of his wits by “the wet, black stone as oily as a garage floor.” The nooks and crannies and tussocks of grass on the cliff’s oily face reminded him of “human body parts.” Later in life, Mailer would inflict his own Maine initiation on his children. In an interview with Portland Mag-

pete souza, white house photographer

from staff & wire reports

Road Warr io r

Events Bar Harbor Music Festival 50th Golden Anniversary Season July 3-31In celebration of the Acadia Centennial, the 2016 Bar Harbor Music Festival will feature the world premieres of two compositions commissioned by the Bar Harbor Music Festival and inspired by Acadia National Park.

288-5744

The Abbe Museum: People of the First Light July 4 The Abbe Museum’s new core exhibit, People of the First Light, the first large-scale permanent exhibit of its kind for the Museum, will be free to all visitors on Monday, July 4th.

As Maine’s first and only Smithsonian Affiliate, the exhibition aims to inspire new learning about the Wabanaki Nations. 288-3519 Coffee and Conversation.

July 5 Christie Anastasia, Acadia National Park’s Deputy Chief of Interpretation, and Ken Cline, COA’s David Rockefeller Family Chair in Ecosystem Management and Protection, will discuss the challenges—and opportunities—facing national parks and protected areas. 801-5622 Summer Festival of the Arts 2016 July 5-22 The Summer Festival of the Arts summer camp runs from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Monday through Friday, July 5 to 22. SFOA is open to children entering grades 1 through 11. sfoamaine.org ArtWaves: Print and Sip Like The Masters July 6 Transcribe 19th century paintings of Mount Desert Island by Church and Cole. All materials provided to create and take home your own 9×12 historical painting.

This summer, make your vacation into an

a dventure

478-9336

ArtWaves: Print the Park July 7 Learn to create your own Acadia National Park cards through fine art printmaking. You will learn a variety of print-making techniques. Everything is included to make your own printed postcard. 478-9336 Friends of Acadia 2016 Annual Meeting July 8 The 2016 Annual Meeting will be an extraspecial event, as it falls on the 100th anniversary of Acadia National Park’s founding. It will feature Friends of Acadia president David MacDonald’s contribution to the Acadia Centennial Lecture Series on conservation in the 21st century. friendsofacadia.org/events/annual-meeting/

Red Cloak Tour for Acadia’s 100th July 8 Red Cloak will be offering a special Haunted History Tour of the town of Bar Harbor, with a focus on the oldest Eastern National Park, how it was created, and the history of the area in 1916. 380-3806 Open House, Evening Reception, and Book Signings July 9 The Gallery at Somes Sound will host an open house and evening reception to introduce the “Acadia Centennial Collection.” 244-1165

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Fortune’s Rock on Somes Sound: home to heiresses, writers, and actors alike. Above: Norman Mailer.

Events

Glaciers to Granite: Acadia—A Centennial Celebration July 11 - August 26 College of the Atlantic and Friends of Acadia join together to bring Tom Blagden, photographer and author of First Light: Acadia National Park, to the Ethel H. Blum Gallery to exhibit work from his new book, Acadia

National Park: A Centennial Celebration, which celebrates the beauty of Acadia. 801-5622 Centennial Shore, Seabird, and Whale Watch Cruise July 17 Maine Coast Heritage Trust and Schoodic Institute with Bar Harbor Whale Watch will host an

1 1 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

evening cocktail cruise in honor of the Acadia Centennial, highlighting coastal conservation, research, and education in and around Acadia National Park. schoodicinstitute.org

ny of Fortune’s Rock twenty feet into the icy water of the sound below. For Mailer, Acadia represented a sanctuary of calm from the storm of the New York literati scene.

Astors in Acadia The Astor clan, hailing originally from Germany before finding their fortune in the fur trade, owned mansions, hotels, and cottages in Bar Harbor and around Mount Desert. A fixture of the “rusticator” scene, their wealth and glamor enhanced Acadia’s reputation as a summer destination.

Scandal rocked the family recently, when it was revealed that Anthony Marshall of the Astor clan had taken advantage of his aging

Book Signing and Presentation by Photographer Tom Blagden July 18 Noted photographer Tom Blagden will speak at the Northeast Harbor Library about his new book, Acadia National Park: A Centennial Celebration.

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Acadia Authors Night July 19 Acadia Authors Night will bring together a celebrated group of authors who’ve written about Acadia.

Each author will introduce and read a passage from their work, including work from Christian Barter, Ronald Epp, David Hackett Fischer, Christina Gillis, Ann Rockefeller Roberts. 801-5622

file photos (2); barharborwhales.com

azine, Mailer’s youngest son, John Buffalo Mailer, recalled summers spent preparing to climb Mount Katahdin. “It started to hail as we were on the middle of the Knife Edge.

I don’t think I had ever been quite as scared in the eight years I had been alive, than I was in that moment.” [See “When Your Name Is

Mailer, You Don’t Phone It In,” by Colin W. Sargent: bit.ly/PMNormanMailer] “Mount Desert is more luminous than the rest of Maine,” Norman declares in Harlot’s Ghost. The two-time Pulitzer Prize winner, who’d spent many summers here with his family, certainly knew how to pick the perfect summer spot. During the 1970s, the family rented “Fortune’s Rock,” a stunning 1937 residence cantilevered over Somes Sound. Designed as a summer abode for New York artists and heiress Clare Fargo Thomas, the sleek lines of the building are in harmony with its breathtaking surroundings. Mailer and his kids were particularly fond of leaping from the timbered balco-

IN ACADIA

Historic Replica of the Rodick House Eco Friendly Initiatives www.BarHarborGrand.com

mother’s slipping mind to plunder her fortune. Brooke Astor, a prominent socialite and philanthropist, kept a much-beloved estate called Cove End, which overlooks the Northeast Harbor Yacht Club. In her will, Astor gave away hundreds of thousands of dollars to Maine charities, including the Maine Community Foundation. Marshall passed away in 2014, aged 90. He only served two months of his three-year prison term due to ailing health.

The new newport hile we may always associate the Vanderbilt name with the flashy appeal of Newport, Rhode Island, many of the family preferred the relative simplicity and peace of Bar Harbor. Patriarch William Henry Vanderbilt first removed to Maine in the early 1880s. George Vanderbilt, William’s youngest and supposedly favorite son, was evidently smitten with us. Upon his father’s death, George bought the former Gouverneur Morris Ogden Cottage in Bar Harbor, renaming the estate Pointe d’Acadie. In 1895, older brother William Kissam Vanderbilt, seeking refuge from the media storm surrounding his divorce, sailed up to Bar Harbor on his yacht Valiant, at the time the largest vessel in the world. William spent much of that summer moored off Pointe d’Acadie, avoiding the press. According to the New York Social Diary, “Unlike at Newport, few traces remain of the Vanderbilts at Bar Harbor. Many of the houses they occupied: Mossley Hall, Pointe d’Acadie, Islecote, have been demolished.” Despite their physical absence, traces of the Van-

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derbilts can be found in the old guest books of the famous inns and restaurants of Acadia.

Camelot northeast Before she was Mrs. John F. Kennedy, before her paparazzi-flashed years as “Jackie O,” or her hidden decades on Park Avenue as an editor at Viking Press, young Jacqueline Bouvier spent her summers not simply as a debutante in Newport, Rhode Island, but also up here in Bar Harbor.

“The Auchinclosses had an estate up here,” says Denise Morgan, co-owner of Oli’s Trolley of Bar Harbor, “and no doubt visited here every summer with Jackie and her sister, Lee Radziwill. The estate is gone now–the fire of 1947 took it–but I believe part of the wall is still there,” right at the

Trivia question: Which two Vice Presidents were born in Maine? corner of Routes 3 and 233, also known as Eagle Lake Road. Trolley drivers mention it as they pass by, talking about the rich and famous of Bar Harbor. “‘So Jackie Bouvier walked the streets of Bar Harbor,’ one of our tourists remarked once while taking the tour.’”

We can’t vouch for the streetwalking, but the presence of the nation’s top debutante must have made the lovely Bar Harbor summers here just a bit lovelier.

But wait a minute. Deborah Dwyer of the

rockefeller Center ohn D. Rockefeller, a high-schooldropout, dreamed of racking up $100,000 and living to a hundred.

Though he fell two years shy of achieving a centennial, Rockefeller far outstripped his financial goal. To this day he remains the wealthiest individual in U.S. history. However, it was John’s youngest son–the anxious and subdued John “Junior” Rockefeller–whose fate is inexorably entwined with Maine history. His passion for the state’s wild landscape inspired the creation of Acadia National Park as we know it today.

John D. Rockefeller Jr. and his wife, Abby Aldrich Rockefeller, paid their first visit to Acadia in the early 20th century, shortly after their marriage in 1901. At this point, Bar Harbor was already swarming with the glamorous rusticator crowd. For the reserved and frugal Rockefeller Jr., the Bar Harbor scene held little appeal. Instead, the couple instead gravitated to the relative peace of Seal Harbor, on the southeastern shore of the island. This sheltered cove would become the family’s annual summer getaway. Their son and future Vice President, Nelson Aldrich Rockefeller, was even born in the holiday cottage they rented in the bay during the summer of 1908. John Jr. began construction on what would become the family vacation home for over 50 years, a sprawling 100-room mansion named

J

from top: Penobscot Marine Museum; bert morgan; MGM/Annex. Sources include “Finding fortune,” by brad emerson, portland magazine, summerguide 2010, and Brad Emerson’s “Downeast Dilettante” blog.

Cove End: Brooke Astor in happier times with her son, Anthony Marshall.

Bar Harbor Historical Society says instead that “Hugh D. Auchincloss stayed at ‘Redwood.’ It’s an important early William Ralph Emerson Shingle Style design. It’s very much still standing, and that’s where Jackie would have stayed.”

As for the lost house mentioned by the trolley company, Dwyer has told us, “I have a ‘before’ and ‘after’ picture of the house that stood there on a slide presentation I do to show the property before and after the school was built. Part of the wall survived, but the wrought-iron gate disappeared. The last people who had it were the Sultan ruler of Turkey and Princess Bernadina.”

Only in Bar Harbor would a sultan owning a house in Bar Harbor be floated as a more plausible anecdote.

Road warr io r “The Eyrie.” To put an exclamation point on the exclusivity, John Jr. commissioned a wall around the perimeter of the house,

“It’s what God would have built, if only he had the money.” inset with pieces of tile brought back from the Great Wall of China.

In 1962, the stately pile, anachronistic its surroundings, was deemed unsuitable for continued use and demolished by the family. Parts of the wall and Abby’s gardens still remain, while the rest of the family scattered around Acadia, inhabiting individual properties or private islands.

The Washington Post ran a feature story on the Rockefellers’ presence in Acadia in 1979, recounting how John Junior’s five sons displayed their inherent business acumen by setting up a flower stall outside the country club. It was rumored that the boys even hitchhiked from the club to the The Eyrie.

On one such occasion, the driver expressed surprise at a young Rockefeller without his own car. “Who do you think we are, Vanderbilts?” was the retort.

During his summers, John Junior, a keen horseman, spent much of his time overseeing the creation of a network of carriage roads around the family estate. The patriarch showed an aptitude for designing and landscaping, creating miles of flowing carriageway between 1915 to 1933 that give unparalleled access to forest and coastline.

Today the carriageways remain, part of John Jr.’s Acadian legacy. There are 45 miles of meandering public paths uninterrupted by autoroutes, their 17 arched granite bridges grinning with coping stones often referred to as “Rockefeller’s teeth.”

Evening Lantern StrollJuly 20 In honor of the Acadia National Park centennial, the Land & Garden Preserve’s 2016 Lantern Stroll at the Asticou Azalea Garden will pay homage to Charles Savage, creator of the garden. Traditional Japanese koto music will be played by Wendilee Heath O’Brien. 276-3727

Margaret Hamilton

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here’s no place like home for Margaret Hamilton, the actress famed for her turn as the green-skinned Wicked Witch of the West in The Wizard of Oz. That home happens to be the remote Cape Island, situated in the far reaches of Boothbay Harbor.

Speaking to Portland Magazine’s Amy Barnett in 2004, Hamilton’s son Meserve describes how his mother came across the spot in 1969: “She heard the Coast Guard was selling lighthouses.” Inspired, “she started driving all along the coast looking for one.”

Hamilton discovered the lighthouse of her dreams on the far side of spruce-covered Cape Island. Named “The Cuckolds,” it

Kid’s Day at the Seal Cove Auto Museum July 21 Part of the above Auto Wars Exhibit, the museum will have a Kid’s Day featuring games, toy car races, educational activities, model car displays, and photos in period clothing. sealcoveautomuseum.org

Whole Communities and Healthy Landscapes: July 21 A Conversation on the Future of Conservation. Two noted

is the only object between Cape Island and Portugal. Over the years, the actress became something of a local legend in this corner of Maine. Well into her sixties when she bought the land, Hamilton was often spotted rowing the 900 feet to shore, clad in blue jeans and sneakers. “Lobstermen loved the fact that this famous gal was rowing out there by herself, and they kind of adopted her and looked after her,” Meserve told The Working Waterfront in 2014. “She got to know everyone in town. People loved the idea that she was there and had adapted to life there.”

To this day, tour boat operators sometimes entertain their passengers by referring to Cape Island as “Witch’s Island.”

conservationists, Peter Forbes (Center for Whole Communities) and Tim Glidden (Maine Coast Heritage Trust), will discuss the imperative for this transition and the exciting examples that are already appearing throughout Maine, across the country and around the globe. 607-4366

“The Colors of Acadia”…A Paste Paper Workshop July 21 Paper artist Sherry Rasmussen will be at ART on West in the Studio Upstairs, 78 West Street, to help create colorful Acadiainspired papers for you to use in your own art and craft projects. 288-9428

Summerguide 2016 113

Martha Stewart made news when her purchase of the Edsel Ford Mansion “Skylands” in Seal Harbor was featured in Architectural Digest. The red Edsel even came with the house.

Martha Stewart

Events

eal Harbor houses another business mogul on its exclusive shore; albeit a much more modern one. Martha Stewart, doyenne of domesticity and media juggernaut, owns an expansive vacation home atop Ox Hill, overlooking the bay below. The former residence of one of Acadia’s blue-blooded patriarchs, Edsel Ford, “Skylands” sits on 63 acres of prime Acadian coastline and forest. Stewart reportedly bought the property in 1997 after attending

Bach’s Lunch July 22 In collaboration with the Blue Hill Public Library, Blue Hill Bach invites the public to a lecture-demonstration, “Bach’s Lunch.”

Conductor John Finney will discuss the theme of Arcadia in Baroque music, and the connection between the idyllic Greek region and Acadia. 613-5454

a cocktail party hosted by its then owner, Edward Leede. It was clearly love at first sight. As soon as Stewart heard the property was going up for sale, she stepped up with a check.

The residence is a true Acadian masterwork, 35,000 square feet of Italian revival architecture, a style that was popular among the rusticators putting down foundations in the area during the 1920s. Stewart has done little to change the exterior of the home that the Fords once inhabited, back when they rubbed shoulders with Rockefellers, Astors, and Vanderbilts in Bar Harbor. She claims the house even came with Ellen Ford’s collection of Danish and French china. Obviously, the interior has since been given the Martha Stewart golden touch. No surprise that Skylands is featured frequently as the focus for decor and gardening articles in Martha Stewart Liv-

Acadia National Park BioBlitz 2016– July 23-24 Help document the biodiversity of Acadia National Park at the Schoodic Institute at Acadia National Park. Over the course of 24 hours biologists and citizen scientists conduct a rapid assessment helping to document species occurrence, provide estimates of species rich-

1 1 4 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

ness, and identify rare and unique species. 288-1310 Pink Granite Bead Making Demonstration July 23-24 The artisans from Sunapee Granite Works will be demonstrating their bead-making process using Mount Desert Island pink Granite.

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ing magazine.

Outside, the landscape is rugged and rocky, awash with white pines, Danish firs, and moss-covered boulders. According to local sources, the caretakers of Skylands collect the area’s iconic pink granite to crush down and re-cover Ms. Stewart’s sweeping driveway every spring.

Stewart has described Maine as her ideal destination for an active vacation and an escape from running her media empire.

While she’s here, Martha can be seen enjoying the same Maine delights as the rest of us: eating lobster rolls in Trenton, hiking the Beehive trails, and kayaking around the bay. A glance at her eponymous blog reveals a multitude of articles celebrating the Maine lifestyle and untouched beauty. No surprise, then, that Martha’s describes this little parcel of Maine as her “favorite place.”

Wild Gardens of Acadia: Readings by Anne Kozak and Sue Leiter July 25 College of the Atlantic faculty and long-time Wild Gardens of Acadia board member, Anne Kozak, is joined by Sue Leiter to talk about their recent book on the Wild Gardens of Acadia. A reception will follow in COA’s Beatrix Farrand Gardens. 801-5622

Outdoor Film: Dancing at the Mill July 26 The Mount Desert Chamber of Commerce will host an outdoor screening of Dancing at the Mill: Two Centuries of Life on Mount Desert Island. 276-5040

photo by sean kruger; martha stewart blog (2)

S

Li f e s t yl e G u r u

You are a part of Acadia’s history.

Be a part of Acadia’s Centennial!

2016 marks the 100th anniversary of the founding of Acadia National Park.

All year long, Maine residents and visitors will come together for a community-based, world-welcoming celebration of the Acadia Centennial. Everyone who lives here and everyone who loves this place is invited!

• Plan a visit to Acadia that includes one or more Centennial events—celebrate the park through the arts, science, history, kids’ activities, outdoor adventures, and much more • Search the online event calendar to see the great variety of events offered by more than 300 Acadia Centennial Partners

TM

• Purchase a licensed Centennial product or service to show your Acadia pride, commemorate this historic moment, and benefit the park • Learn about Acadia’s past and how you can be a part of its future protection at www.acadiacentennial2016.org

www.AcadiaCentennial2016.org www.facebook.com/AcadiaNPCentennial2016 | www.facebook.com/AcadiaNPS www.instagram.com/AcadiaNPCentennial2016 | #Acadia100 | #AcadiaSecrets Friends of Acadia is grateful for the generous support of the Centennial Signature Sponsors:

Plan your visit:

acadiacentennial2016.org

C hi l dr e n ’ s B ook Legend

“Winter came and the snow fell softly, like a great quiet secret in the night, cold and still.” Margaret Wise Brown’s description of a snowy scene in The Little House was no doubt inspired by Maine winters spent in her home on Vinalhaven. Brown wrote many of her beloved children’s books, which include The Runaway Bunny and Goodnight Moon, while staying at the former quarry master’s home on the island. Named “The Only House,” the Vinalhaven sanctuary became the place where Brown day-

dreamed, wrote, entertained friends, and lived the island life, as dictated by the season and the sea. “I’ll meet you at the black buoy,” she’d tell friends who made the trek to Rockland to visit her.

Despite her books, Brown never had children of her own. In 1952, at just 42, while recovering after surgery, she kicked her foot over her head can-can style to prove how well she was feeling. Heartbeats later, she was dead of an embolism. Her ashes were scattered not far from her tree overlooking the water at the edge Vinalhaven. The rough stone marking the spot is inscribed, “Margaret Wise Brown, writer of Songs and Nonsense.”

The Runaway Bunny stars as the dramatic apex of the film Wit (2001), with Emma Thompson and Eileen Atkins. See the powerful clip: http://bit.ly/25AQFDa 1 1 6 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

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n a post from her blog, author Tess Gerritson writes: “I’ve been a resident of Maine for 17 years, and although I’ll never be considered a real ‘Mainer,’ I do feel like one.” While the San Diego-born Gerritsen may never attain the status of a dyed-in-thewool Mainer, she’s a jewel nontheless in the state’s literary crown.

Raised by Chinese immigrant parents in California, Gerritsen grew up writing and creating characters.

Since storytelling was never considered a viable career in her family, Gerritsen instead pursued medicine in California and Honolulu, along with her husband, Jeff.

“Then I burned out on being on an island

and practicing medicine, and we moved to Maine,” she told Portland Magazine in 1996.

But why Maine? According to Gerritsen, the decision was spontaneous, and perhaps serendipitous. “It is all based on an article writ-

Tess Gerritsen No velist

ten by Bill Levanworth in Cruising World, she says. “He wrote an article about Camden; and my husband, who is an avid sailor, happened to pick up that magazine, read about Camden and said, ‘Oh, we’re going on vacation on the East Coast. Let’s drive up the coast of Maine and see what it’s like.’”

One glance at Camden’s scenic harbor and the Gerritsens knew that they’d found their new home.

The relocation turned out to be beneficial for Gerritsen’s growing writing career. With two published romance novels under her belt, Gerritsen went on to quit medicine and focus on writing full-time. It was in Camden that she formulated the ideas for her vastly successful Rizzoli & Isles novel series in 2001. She has since penned 17 works of fiction and amassed a net worth of over $4 million. The final season of the TV series based on her work, Rizzoli & Isles, will hit screens worldwide this summer.

See Tess Gerritsen speak about her latest thriller novel “Playing with Fire” at Skidompha Library in Daramiscotta, August 10.

Lobster Picnic Sunset Cruise Safari July 28 Acadia Photo Safari will host three special Acadia Centennial Lobster Picnic safaris aboard our locally built 28-foot “lobster yacht.”acadiaphotosafari.com “En Plein Air” A pop-up performance series by Alison Chase/ Performance July 28 This summer, Alison Chase/Performance will bring outdoor pop-up performances to community in Winter Harbor.

This renowned contemporary dance company will present family-friendly repertoire favorites and new works that bring humor, illusion, athleticism, and movement innovation to the site-specific stage. 963-2569

Events

Clockwise from left: file photo; Leonardo Cendamo; warner bros; file photo

Margaret Wise Brown

Road warr io r

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Summerguide 2016 117

Events

41st Annual Mount Desert Island Directions Fine Craft Show July 2-31 In its 41st year, this show maintains a reputation for excellence in fine craft and is one of the best places to meet Maine’s talented artisans working in wood, metal, clay, natural fibers, glass and so much more. (401) 935-6704

Bar Harbor Music Festival Gala featuring “Songs of the Sky” July 31 In celebration of the Acadia Centennial, the 2016 Bar Harbor Music Festival’s 50th Anniversary Season will feature the world premieres of two compositions commissioned by the Bar Harbor Music Festival and inspired by Acadia National Park. 288-5744 Century One: Acadia Art Exhibit Aug 1-14 An art exhibit that will feature 100 paintings created by Kaitlyn Metcalf to celebrate the Acadia Centennial. The paintings are inspired by objects and images found in the Acadia National Park archives, as well as from local historical society, museum, and library archives. 479-4858

Grey Havens Inn • 96 Seguinland RD • Georgetown, ME 04548 www.greyhavens.com • (207) 371-2616 • Toll-Free: (855) 473-9428

Somes Sound Windjammer Parade Aug 2 Maine’s legendary fleet of windjammers will sail in company through Somes Sound, the body of water running deep into Mount Desert Island, where dramatic 600-foot cliffs form the backdrop for this afternoon parade of sail.

374-2993

Huge selection of wines for everyone’s taste with over 1,000 labels.

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Print and Sip Like The MasterS Aug 3 The ArtWaves Community Art Center will be providing materials and assistance necessary for participants to create and take home their own 9x12 transcribed 19th century paintings of Mount Desert Island by Church and Cole. 478-9336

Monday - Saturday 9a-9p • Sunday-10a-5p • 207-641-8622 US Route 1, Hannaford Plaza, Wells Maine • www.tullysbeerandwine.com 1 1 8 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Mount Desert Summer Chorale Annual Concerts Aug 5-6 This musical program will celebrate nature while honoring the centennial of Acadia National Park, featuring the premiere of a newly commissioned work by composer Ola Gjielo.

Admission based on donation at the door.

244-0042

albert andre

Print the Park Aug 4 Learn how to make your own Acadia National Park postcard using a variety of printmaking techniques, with materials and instruction provided by the ArtWaves Community Art Center. Individual and family sessions will be available. 478-9336

Campobello

Think of Bermuda, lightly chilled.

By Colin W. Sargent

H

ere and not here, part of the Maine mystique but profoundly abroad– even in another time zone–Campobello Island is so close to our coast you can not only taste it, you can hear it.

Ten miles long and frequently misunderstood, the bewitching Island of Campo Bello, as it was styled in the 19th century, marks the confluence of the St. Croix River and the Bay of Fundy. It also lights the entrance to Passamaquoddy Bay. A nexus of stark contrasts, Campobello Island defines both the international boundary between the United States and Canada and the eternal ties entwining their histories.

Wild and mesmerizing, with great cliffs dropping off sharply to the water, it is the home of the Roosevelt Campobello International Park, which is unique in the world because it is shared by two sovereign nations.

Two years after Eleanor Roosevelt gifted the sprawling 2,800-acre International Park to all of us, President Lyndon Johnson and Canadian Prime Minister Lester Pear1 2 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

son both graced the 1964 ribbon-cutting.

Because both countries coexist in the same spot, their differences become clean, clear, and fascinating in the stiff North Atlantic breeze. Example: During national holidays, some staff members of the International Park must work, while those of the other nation simply do not! When you leave Lubec and cross the quaint, ultra-scenic 54-year-old Roosevelt International Bridge, you pass into another time zone. Then you pass through Canadian Customs. Your dog will need a rabies certificate. You must have a “passport or equivalent.” In the span of a second, you’ve left the United States and become a world traveler abroad, though the proximity to home makes your brain dance while you catch glimpses of nearby Lubec and Eastport as you drive around the island. Maybe it’s eas-

iest to think of Campobello as an enormous international yacht parked offshore.

Before air-conditioning, the island was a world destination for rusticators. The Roosevelt family first summered here in 1883.

The historic Roosevelt cottage–a stunning 34-room masterpiece, is the main attraction of the International Park. Today, it is a major attraction, with tours, conferences, and special events. Designed by Willard T. Sears,

from top: Toshihiro (Bill) Shoji ; franklin d. roosevelt presidential library and museum; Sources: https://w ww.nps.gov/nr/travel/presidents/roosevelts_campobello.html, CBS NEws.

Different Country, Different World:

Don’t Miss

One of the most popular Vacationland destinations isn’t in Maine, it’s not even in the US er, Sara, who’d bought it for $5,000 in 1909.

The house’s first owner, Mrs. Grace Hartman Kuhn of Boston, was a Campobello neighbor and family friend for many years.

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uring a recent visit, CBS News expressed surprise that Eleanor continued her New York practice of having tea every day up here in the wilderness. But that’s the tension of Campobello: the smart and certain vs. the unknown.

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Head Harbour Light

“The second-most photographed lighthouse in the world.” [Portland Head Ligh t is first.]

In this cottage, aged patinated beadboard paneling contrasts sharply with the rustling fragrance and supernatural beauty of Passamaquoddy sweetgrass wastebaskets that are “original to the house,” says guide Theresa Mitchell, a “ninth-generation Campobello resident. I’m a dual citizen, because I was born abroad.” She winks. “Here, that means across the bridge.”

As you tour this immaculate attrac-

tion, stopped in time, you won’t forget the way the long green lawn plunges into the sea, the seven gracious fireplaces, or the six stoic original porcelain tubs and sinks that unblinkingly face the future. Most unsettling: Eleanor Roosevelt’s enormous megaphone is still on the site. “(If you look out the windows in the living room, you’ll see Eastport,” Mitchell says. “She used it to call chil-

tourismnenewbrunswick.ca photo by Joyce Morrell

the Shingle Style house is a time capsule both for the year 1920 and because it seems as if the film crew from Sunrise At Campobello just finished shooting moments before.

Young Franklin Delano Roosevelt and his bride, Eleanor Roosevelt, were given this estate as a present by Franklin’s moth-

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Yachting with the Roosevelts is a Campobello tradition.

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n the study, “where we have Eleanor Roosevelt’s desk. We also have the original Victrola they listened to,” along with original Stickley furnishings. It was here that FDR “liked to read Shakespeare,” though as a youth he grew up loving Mark Twain, Charles Dickens, and Rudyard Kipling. FDR’s attachment to Kipling’s poem “If” may have sparked a national trend. Mitchell says his love for all things philatelic was undoubtedly a force behind the 20th-century fad for stamp collecting among boys and girls.

For music, it didn’t hurt if Sarah Hubbard, the concert pianist, was one of your neigh-

bors. “She’d come in and play for them on the Hazleton Bros. upright,” which is still here after innumerable retunings in the salt air.

But more than the gracious nature of the house itself, with its quiet creakings and head into the wind, FDR loved this place because lost childhood was here, where he could run and swim and take physical risks buoyed by his early vigor and lifelong love for the outdoors. Islanders taught him to sail small boats with techniques that dated to early fishing smacks.

Back then, there was a sense of something secret and “Indian” about the island.

FDR was acquainted with many Passamaquoddies, including Chief Neptune, and soon found himself enjoying canoeing.

According to the FDR Presidential Libraryin Hyde Park, “one of the canoes that he used at Campobello was a birch bark canoe made by Tomah Joseph, the last chief of the Passamaquoddy Indians, the tribe living in Eastport, Maine, across the bay from Campobello Island.” The canoe is on loan from the Presidential Library and Museum to the Franklin D. Roosevelt International Park

franklin d. roosevelt presidential library and museum

dren primarily. Franklin used it to talk with the men in the fishing boats.”

Like a speaking trumpet?

“Eleanor always called it a megaphone.

It is still suspended on the same hook and chain on the back porch.” Venerable and oily from use, “It’s like a pressed cloth and weighs just three pounds. If the wind was right on a calm day, Eleanor could be heard across the water in Eastport. But of course she had that kind of voice.”

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FDR’s birchbark canoe still exists!

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1 2 6 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Commission, in New Brunswick, Canada.

It hangs in the visitor’s center just as you walk in.

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henever FDR was here, his two worlds collided, at times majestically. Under President Woodrow Wilson, FDR was appointed Assistant Secretary of the Navy in 1913. Thus empowered, “He sometimes turned up at Campobello aboard a destroyer,” according to Stephen O. Muskie in Outtakes, Campobello Island: Far From The Mainstream. “Although it was against naval regulations, he persuaded the captain to let him take the helm and piloted the ship at full speed ahead through fog-bound waters. The Bay of Fundy’s tides and currents were bred into his bones. One of his pet dreams was to harness Passamaquoddy’s precipitous tides for purposes of electric power. It was never realized, but perhaps the idea for the Rural Electrification Administration had its origin in those ‘eye-straining’ nights by Campo’s kerosene lamps.”

Infamously–some say wonderfully–the Roosevelt cottage had no electric lights during its most famous decades.

Asked about the destroyers, Mitchell drops a bomb: “Franklin arrived at Campobello in Navy ships three times as President.

One of the ships was the USS Amberjack.”

Then she waits like a slyboots. “The other was the cruiser USS Indianapolis.”

If you’ve seen the movie Jaws, you’ve heard about the Indianapolis. Years after she visited Campobello with FDR, this doomed ghost ship made a special delivery to the Army Air Corps base on the island of Tinian: “Little Boy,” the first nuclear bomb dropped on Hiroshima. After the delivery, the Indianapolis was sunk by a Japanese submarine and sank in minutes. Over three hundred crewmen drowned or were eaten by sharks. Or both.

There’s another dark sense out here that hits you like an icy breeze when you realize FDR first recognized symptoms of polio during one of his idylls up here, though there are medical disputes about what exactly folded his vigorous six-foot twoinch frame into a wheelchair for the rest of

Roosevelt Campobello International Park

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Summerguide 2016 127

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his life. The chill struck the future president during a vacation that started on August 7, 1921, when he was 39. According to a monograph written by Amy Berish for the Presidential Library, using Jean Edward Smith’s FDR as a source, “During the summer of 1921, FDR was enjoying a day of sailing on his yacht when he suddenly fell overboard into the icy waters of the Bay of Fundy...”

The next day, “Roosevelt felt a sudden chill. He told Eleanor he thought he was catching a cold and had better not risk infecting the children. He would go straight to bed. Eleanor sent up a tray of food, but he was not hungry. He had trouble sleeping that night and continued to tremble despite two heavy woolen blankets. The next morning he was worse. When he swung his legs out of bed and attempted to stand, his left leg buckled beneath him. He managed to get up and shave and assumed the problem would pass. ‘I tried to persuade myself that the trouble with my leg was muscular, that it would disappear as I used it. But presently it refused to work, and then the other collapsed as well.’ FDR dragged himself back to bed, and when Eleanor took his temperature it was 102.”

“There are some conversations that it may not have been polio but rather Guillain-Barré,” a nerve disorder, Mitchell says.

FDR and Duffy the dog at Campobello.

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franklin d. roosevelt presidential library and museum

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oosevelt was carried down the long green lawn by neighbors to a waiting boat bound for the train station in Eastport, hidden from the world press.

Mitchell tells of “a great conspiracy played

by Lewis Howe” [the Roosevelts’ friend and political advisor played by Hume Cronin in Sunrise at Campobello] who misdirected reporters so that by the time they reached the train, huffing and puffing, “Franklin was already propped up in the window, waving” to the news hounds as the train pulled out.

On arrival in Boston, he was examined in secret by doctors before continuing south to New York. Twelve years later, he would return to Campobello in triumph as our 32nd President. n

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Stephen King

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writer

ne of Maine’s most famous literary exports is a benevolent spirit in a comically gothic-style mansion in Bangor. Stephen King, master of horror and one of the most successful writers of his generation, was born just down the road at Maine Medical Center in Portland. This isn’t news to Mainers, who have spent the past couple of decades hearing the same old tag, even when traveling in Europe: “Oh, Maine, that’s where Stephen King’s from, right?”

Today the King family divides its summers between Palmer Lake in Lovell and their mansion in Bangor. Lovell holds bittersweet connotations for King, who in 1999 was hit by a van while taking one of his long walks around the area.

It has been suggested that Lisbon High School inspired the setting for alumnus King’s first published novel, Carrie. “It’s definitely set in Lisbon High School,” asserts Margaret Frankenberger, who works in the school office and graduated a year ahead of King. “Stephen mentions kids we grew up with by name.” Indeed, the school’s stark gymnasium, huddled close to Route 196, bears a strong resemblance to the fateful site of Carrie’s high school prom.

A number of King’s other novels are also set in Maine, including Bag of Bones, Pet Sematary, and Cujo, in which the rugged landscape and historic brick towns serving as dramatic backdrops to the narrative. The fictional town of Derry, the location of King’s terrifying novel IT, is often cited as a recognizable imitation

according to realmaine.net: “Holy Shnikies! You’re a Genius! Amazing Work With The Price. THANK YOU! Huge Thank You. I Know Director You Worked Hard (And nless you’ve been Brilliantly) To Make This living in a galaxy Happen. Katie And I Really Appreciate It.” far, far away, you can’t have failed Born in 1966, Jeffrey Jacob Abrams’s to notice the resurrection of the biggest feverish rise to Hollywood power includes movie franchise in history this year. After his Emmy-winning production of Alias Star Wars VII: The Force Awakens broke the (featuring Jennifer Garner and Maine year’s box-office record, its director is probnative Rachel Nichols) as well as Lost. Movably in need of some vacation time. Camies include Mission Impossible 3, Star Trek, den residents, keep your eyes peeled. J.J. Star Trek into Darkness, Star Trek Ghost ProAbrams and his wife, Brewer native Kate tocol, and on and on.

McGrath, own a summer retreat in 60 acres Abrams has also visited Maine for busiof prime lakefront real estate just outside ness as well as pleasure. In 2006, Stephen of town. This isn’t just a place for Abrams King invited him here for a “panel discussion to dutifully visit the in-laws, either. Speakon creativity,” according to the Bangor Daiing to the New York Times in 2006, Abrams ly News. The pair obviously hit it off: Abrams revealed he’d been coveting his own place now produces the Hulu series 11.22.63, based Downeast for some time. “For the past few on King’s novel of the same name. years we’ve rented a house in Camden, Given the rumors that Abrams has Maine. I’d love to buy one.” When he finalpassed the Star Wars torch on to Rian Johnly purchased his dream vacation home, the son, perhaps the film wunderkind will have director/writer/producer’s delight was apmore time to enjoy the views from his Maine parent. Real Maine Real Estate in Yarmouth mansion this summer? received the following enthusiastic note,

U

JJ Abrams

of Bangor. Let’s just hope we don’t find Pennywise The Clown skipping through The Queen City.

Although the famously reticent King rarely gives interviews, he keeps his army of fans sated with regular tweets about his latest projects. Imminent releases include his latest novel, End of Watch, the finale to the New York Times bestselling trilogy that began with Mr. Mercedes and Finders Keepers. On the silver screen, the first film of King’s hugely popular fantasy series The Dark Tower is due for release in 2017. The scifi epic will star Idris Elba and Matthew McConaughey. King fans, stay tuned.

1 3 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

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Actors Robert Montgomery (1904-1981) and daughter Elizabeth Montgomery (1933-1995). Old Hollywood had its stake in Acadia as well. Leading man Robert Montgomery owned a house at Indian Point on North Haven. His daughter, Elizabeth Montgomery, star of the hit 1950s show Bewitched, also spent her summers here. A great movie pairing: Maine’s John Ford directs Vacationland summer resident Robert Montgomery in They Were Expendable, about the PT boats of World War II. Log line: “Little boats, big job.”

David Morse

(b.1953) Famous for his roles in The Green Mile, Disturbia, and St. Elsewhere, Morse has summered in Bar Harbor since visiting

Gunnar Hansen

from top: moviepilot.com; disney; alan.com; file image; cal newport

(1947-2015) The actor starred as “Leatherface” in the 1974 cult-classic Texas Chainsaw Massacre. Upon its release, instead of heading to Hollywood, Hansen chose to move to Mount Desert Island to pursue his plan to be a writer.

Portland Magazine spoke to Hansen in 2013: “I told myself I’d just make a trip to Boston every month or six weeks so I wouldn’t feel so isolated,” said Hansen.

And? “I never did it,” he laughs. “I didn’t

Susan Sarandon A c t or

(b.1946) The queen of the silver screen grew up spending summers on Mount Desert Island with her large family (she’s one of nine siblings). Years later, Sarandon bought the same property once rented by her family. Most recently, she hit headlines when she stumped for Bernie Sanders’ presidential campaign at colleges around Maine.

Summerguide 2016 131

A Fine Arts gallery open June 25th thru mid September in Blue Hill, Maine and from September 20th thru Memorial Day in Grafton, Vermont. Featuring a unique series of limited edition bronze sculptures entitled, “The Woodland Tribes of the Northeast.”

Also featuring paintings by Jerry Rose, Barron Krody, Randy Eckard, lorraine Lans, and Sally Ladd Cole.

Open Daily 10:30 – 5:30

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Events

“Rhythms of The Sea and Tides in Acadia” Aug 5 ART on West Gallery presents the works of local artist David Shepard, who draws on his own experience of the Acadia landscape to instill a feeling of immersion into the scenes of his oil paintings. 288-9428

A View in a Box Aug 5 Jay Palefsky and the Eclipse Gallery pay tribute to Acadia National Park with limited edition slider boxes, capturing memories and experiences in an ever-changing view of Acadia.

288-9088

Northeast HarborFest Aug 6-7 Artists and craftsmen from all around the country come together to show their works in a festival celebrating the cultural, artistic, and nautical history of the Northeast Harbor.

John Travolta & Kelly Preston

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Movi e S tars

(b.1954) & (b.1962) The Hollywood power couple has been visiting Isleboro since the 1990s, when Islesboro resident and pal Kirstie Alley first extolled its virtues to Travolta. Their elegant 6-bedroom Tudor-revival mansion overlooks the shore. Despite keeping a low profile around the island, the pair has unintentionally made local news on occasion. In a tragic accident at Bangor airport, Travolta was left distraught after his two small dogs were run over by an airport vehicle. That was not Travolta’s only aviation trouble in Maine. A skilled pilot certified to fly multiple aircraft types (he owns a Boeing 707 and was the first non-test pilot to fly the Airbus A380), Travolta has also been chastised by neighbors for swooping his private jet too close to the island’s peaceful shore. a friend here in 1994. In an interview with Portland Magazine, he described his perfect Maine afternoon. “We ride our bikes to Jordan Pond House and we have our lobster salad and popovers and do the whole Park Loop Road once.”

Clockwise from top left: mavrix online; acadia photo safari; file photo

Oliver Platt (b.1960) Known for his roles in everything from X-Men: First Class to The West Wing, Oliver Platt has summered on North Haven for years.

So Many Artists & Writers

George Bellows

(1882-1925) The realist painter was originally known for his depictions of urban life in New York, but in 1912, Bellows began visiting Maine, creating his famous seascapes of Monhegan and Matinicus.

Elizabeth Bishop (1911-1979) The Poet Laureate and Pulitzer Prize winner summered in North Haven for many years. On an early visit Bishop observed: “Maine Islands—small ones—no

Caitlin FitzGerald Ac tor

(b.1983) The actress and star of Showtime’s Masters of Sex grew up in Camden. She comes from a pedigree of success; her grandfather was the Deputy Director of the CIA under the Kennedy Administration and her aunt a Pulitzer Prize winning journalist. In 2012, Caitlin wrote and starred in her own film, Like The Water, set in Camden. [See our cover story, Septermber 2014]

Picnic at the Museum Aug 7 The Seal Cove Auto Museum hosts a community picnic and car show that will include scenic views of the park, as well as antique automobile rides. 244-9242

Lobster Picnic Sunset Cruise Safari Aug 8 Acadia Photo Safari will host three special Acadia Centennial Lobster Picnic safaris aboard our locally built 28-foot “lobster yacht.”

In addition to the standard cruise of personalized photography instruction and great photoops, each centennial cruise includes extended time for a lobster picnic served on the waters of Somes Sound. Ten percent of all proceeds from this safari will be donated to Friends of Acadia. www.acadiaphotosafari.com

Art of Acadia and the Jesup Memorial Library Aug. 11 David and Carl Little present and celebrate their new collaborative book, Art of Acadia, which has showcased the park’s beauty and helped gain support towards protecting the landscape. 288-4245

Ashley Bryan

Kevin Gardner: Discovering New England Stone Walls Aug. 11 This informational talk will touch on the main topics featured in Kevin Gardner’s book, The Granite Kiss, which discusses the history of New England stone walls. 667-6363

(b.1923) The multiple Coretta Scott King Award winner and children’s book author lives in Islesford. He uses found items from Maine beaches to create some of his artwork, including sea-glass windows and puppets made out of driftwood.

Transformer Tales: Stories of the Dawnland Aug 11 -14 A youth production by the Penobscot Theatre Company in collaboration with The Penobscot Nation, intertwining traditional stories of the Wabanaki with present and future. 947-6618

beach—upright—crowded with firs—no place—no foot-hold—for anything.’”

(Continued on page 160)

(Continued on page 160))

Summerguide 2016 133

Indianas

This summer, a striking new Robert Indiana series is blowing in the wind.

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from Staff & Wire reports

aine art star Robert Indiana is unveiling new work this summer in the show “Robert Indiana: Now and Then,” on view at Bates College Art Museum through October 8. “His latest series is the extraordinary Like A Rolling Stone, in which he creates dynamic visual works with the lyrics of this Bob Dylan song,” says Bates Museum of Art director Dan Mills, an edgy artist himself. “The twelve works in this series merge the work of two of the most iconic American pop culture figures of the 1960s, Bob Dylan and Robert Indiana.”

Neither Robert Indiana nor Bob Dylan rolls with his original name. Indiana was born Robert Clark, in New Castle, Indiana.

Bob Dylan changed his name from Robert Allen Zimmerman to his present stage name out of admiration for the poet Dylan Thomas.

Together, the two have changed the world.

A perfect pairing would be to see Indiana’s show on Saturday afternoon, July 16,

1 3 4 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

and then go to Thompson’s Point in Portland that same night and hear Bob Dylan sing under the stars. Just more proof that at the peak of summer, Maine is the right place at the right time.

Indiana takes us closer with his perspectives on Maine and his art in the exchanges below: Tilt, 2016. Silkscreen in colors on triple primed canvas. Edition #: I/VII

EAT Silver/Blue Rainbow, 2011. Unique silkscreen in colors, printed on triple primed canvas.

On his 1964 EAT sculpture: “The day they turned it on, a line formed. People wanted to know where the food was. I didn’t see it there. But recently I saw it lit for the first time–it’s now here on the island [Vinalhaven].”

On childhood: “My Aunt Ruby murdered my grandmother. My mother was elated, as she’d hated her mother, and she went to South Bend to watch the trial. In her absence, my father found another women and left.”

On Andy Warhol: [Warhol filmed a 40-minute documentary, entitled “EAT,” showing Indiana holding his cat and eating a mushroom.] “You can imagine how exciting that was. Andy loved to bore people.”

On creating an icon: “In 1964, I was commissioned by the Museum of Modern Art to do a Christmas card. It

Sources: Portland Magazine Interviews by Donna Stuart, Amy Barnett, and Colin Sargent. from top: cynthia farr-weinfeld; Courtesy of the artist and American Image Art(2)

Indiana’s

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Clockwise from top left: Like a Rolling Stone, 2016.

Edition #: I/VII Once Upon a Time, 2016.

Edition#: I/VII You Never Understood, 2016.

Edition #: I/VIII

from top: All images ©2016 Robert Indiana, Courtesy of the artist and american image art (4); ron g

Take All, 2016. Edition #: I/X Two pop icons collide: A dozen silkscreen prints featuring lyrics from Dylan’s Like a Rolling Stone will go on exhibition as part of the Robert Indiana: Now and Then show at Bates College Museum of Art this summer.

became the most popular Christmas card ever issued, and from there things just snowballed.” on Defending against “Love” knock-offs: “I gave up on that a long time ago.”

On reaching a milestone: “Last night was very lavish, the fanciest and biggest birthday party I’ve ever had. I would have preferred my eightieth in quiet solitude.”

On moving to Maine: tar of Hope was the reason I came to Vinalhaven. It’s an old Odd Fellows Hall. That’s what I dreamed of all my life, a house like this. I have a studio in Star of Hope, another one in what was the island’s first

“S

theater during the Civil War, and a third studio in what was formerly the Odd Fellows outhouse. It was an eight-seater, with a door for the officers, one for the enlisted men, and one for the lady Odd Fellows.”

On hope: “Now what I’m preoccupied with is the subject of hope. I did a sculpture for Obama’s campaign. Living in the Star of Hope for 25 years,

I’d done HOPE designs for myself, but it was really Obama and his book, The Audacity of Hope, that triggered my current involvement.”

On inspiration: “Living on Vinalhaven has no effect on my art. My art comes from within myself, though LOVE kind of stands apart. Most of my work is very autobiographical: I’m painting my own history and my own life. This is called egocentricism. My own feeling is that artists are more interesting than their work.

It’s been my ambition ever since I was six years old to be an artist.”

On future projects: “My goal is to plant a LOVE in every city around the globe.” n Summerguide 2016 137

Writing Acadia:

A Personal Memoir

by Christina B aker K line

Christina Baker Kline is the author of five novels including Orphan Train, which spent more than two years on the New York Times bestseller list. Her sixth novel, based on Andrew Wyeth’s painting Christina’s World, will be published in 2017.

She and her husband and three sons divide their time between homes in Montclair, New Jersey, and Southwest Harbor.

Baker Kline has also taught fiction and nonfiction writing. Here she shares some of her hard-won insights on the writing life.

Priming the Pump Mondays are hard. All weekend you’ve been doing laundry, taking family bike rides, 1 4 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

reading the Times in bits and pieces, going to your kids’ soccer games, and then it’s Monday morning and they’re all out the door (except the dog, who is lying on your feet), and it’s hard to know where to begin, how to pick up where you left off. hen I was growing up in Maine, my professor parents bought an A-frame on a tiny island on a lake. The house had no electricity or heat, and a red-handled pump was our only source of drinking water. When we arrived on the island (having paddled over from the mainland in our evergreen Old Town canoe), we had to prime the pump with lake water to get it started. One of my sisters

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poured the water into the top while another pumped. The well water took a while to emerge, and then it was cloudy, rust-colored, for at least a minute or two before running clear.

from top: greg hartford; courtesy of the author

The best-selling Mount Desert Island author takes us inside her stories and her process as no one else can.

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This reminds me of my own writing on Monday mornings–or anytime I’ve taken a substantial break from it. As with the pump, I’ve learned to prime my writing. I might read a chapter or two of a book on my nightstand, or perhaps turn to one of my ‘touchstones’–those dog-eared, broken-spined, oft-read volumes I’ve defaced with marginalia and underlinings, and which I know I can count on for inspiration.

Then I start to write, knowing that it may take some time to reach the deep, cold source of inspiration, but trusting that sooner or later my words will run clear.

Four Basic Elements A novelist friend has an index card with these four words on it taped to the wall above the computer in his study: CHARACTER CONFLICT CHOICES CONSEQUENCES Sometimes it helps to remember: It’s that simple.

Breath on the Glass hen I’m working on a novel, ideas rise up at random times from the murk of my subconscious like pronouncements in a Magic 8 Ball. If I don’t write them down right away, these ephemeral thoughts can fade and disappear.

Driving my 14-year-old son, Hayden, to summer camp in Maine on Sunday, I put him to work as both a DJ and a scribe. (After

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The Maine coastline is similar, in many ways, to the west coast of Ireland, 2,500 miles to the east. all, I was the chauffeur.) He selected a Green Day song from his new iPod touch (an 8thgrade graduation present from an indulgent grandmother); then I was allowed a song by The Fray. He picked Ben Folds, I chose Dar Williams. Every now and then I asked him to open my writing journal–a wire-bound, college-ruled notebook with a green plastic cover–and scribble a line: 1 4 2 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

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Sea air in Galway. The Maine coastline is similar, in many ways, to the west coast of Ireland, 2,500 miles to the east. With this note I was reminding myself to pay particular attention to the sensory details; I thought I might be able to use these impressions in a scene in my novel.

Fiction chooses the writer. This idea for a blog post sprang from an ongoing conversation with several novelists about how and why people start writing fiction.

Breath on the glass. As we drove in the rain, I saw Hayden turn his head to look out the passenger window at two guys on a motorcycle, both without helmets, grimacing into the downpour. Hayden’s breath fogged the glass. When he turned back to me, saying, “Wow, Mom, what were they thinking?” I glanced over again, and saw that his breath had already evaporated. And the guys on the bike were gone.

That’s how it is with these fleeting observations, and why I asked Hayden to keep a pen handy and the notebook on his lap. He was happy to do it–as long as he could listen to Metallica and I promised to get him to Bar Harbor on time.

Writer vs. Editor used to agonize over each word and phrase in a first draft, doubtful that when I came back to it, weeks or months later, I would be able to see, much less fix, the things that didn’t work. But while I was writing my third novel, The Way Life Should Be–and editing other people’s manuscripts at the same time–I had an epiphany.

Here’s what I realized: My editor-self is surprisingly clear-headed, even ruthless.

Hyper-critical and exacting, she is capable of transforming a freewheeling, messy draft into clear and lucid prose. And she likes doing it.

(Yes, it took three novels to figure this out.)

This realization freed my writer-self to have more fun. My first drafts have become more spontaneous and energetic; I feel free to try out a range of ideas, follow tangents in odd directions, write a scene of dialogue three different ways, all with the knowledge that my editor-self will step in when needed with a red pencil and a roll of the eyes–what was she thinking? n

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Savage Beauties Monhegan’s Rockwell Kent

By Colin W. Sargent

from top: northeast auctions; public

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o one captures the dark side of the beauty of Acadia like Rockwell Kent (1882-1971), the prickly genius who lived and painted on Monhegan Island from 1905 through most of the 20th century. (Fun fact: Jamie Wyeth lives in Kent’s original studio on the island.) Most recently, Kent’s scary 1929 oil painting Greenland I, a glimpse of the frightening depths of Kent’s epic voyage up the Atlantic coast in the 33-foot cutter Direction, has grabbed some headlines as

The record sale for a Kent painting was set at auction in 2015 for Polar Expedition (1944), selling for $605,000.

Rockwell’s Greenland I fetched only $180,000 in May 2016.

it headed to auction.

According to the introduction in North

by East, Kent’s account of the saga, Kent was nonplussed by the name Direction (“too provocative”) from the moment he left New York Harbor and headed toward Maine.

But this time he skirted his beloved Monhegan Island, passing all of Acadia as he sailed.

The biggest dangers waited ahead: “I am not going to do any fool, little thing...I am reaching to the stars…I don’t want petty self-expression…I want to

paint the rhythms of eternity.” While Greenland I didn’t reach the pre-auction estimate of $300,000 to $400,000, the hammer price of $180,000 including buyer’s premium at Northeast Auctions is still an eye-opener.

Here follows the passage of this painting, directly from Kent’s hands to the world of here and now: First, Kent made it a present to Donald Brace, owner of Harcourt, Brace & Company. Brace gave it to his daughter, Donna Brace Ogilvie. When she died in 2015, it entered her estate and spent a year in the dark. But it didn’t start out that way.

The painting first glowed at a big show at the Carnegie Institute in 1930. n Summerguide 2016 145

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Swept from top: The Kowles Company; Emily Carter Mitchell; politico.com

Away

We interrupt this magazine for a live feed directly from the Secretary of Defense’s house.

D

B y C o l i n W. Sar gent

uring the Reagan presidency, everyone on Earth knew that Secretary of Defense Caspar Weinberger (1917-2006) kept a getaway place up in Maine.

But it was more something imagined than actually seen. Far fewer knew where it was, or how luxuriant it was, or that it was once owned by Mary King Auchincloss. Listed for sale this summer for $2.15M, “Windswept,” built in 1910, enjoys a classic view of Somes Sound on Mount Desert Island. Positioned to advantage at 584 S u m m e r g u i d e 2016 147

A Chat With

Caspar W. Weinberger, Jr.

Caspar Willard Weinberger, Jr, known as “Cap,” is the son of Caspar Weinberger, prominent statesman and, most notably, U.S. Secretary of Defense under the Reagan administration from 1981 to 1987.

Cap’s mother, Jane Weinberger, was an author and publisher from Milford, Maine.

Born in 1947, Cap studied at Harvard–his father’s alma mater–and earned a B.A. in Modern British History in 1968. He lived in San Francisco for many years, working as an award-winning producer, director, and writer of documentary films for an NBC affiliate. Cap settled in Mount Desert in 1997. Today he is a writer and lecturer, as well as running Windswept House Publishers, started by his mother in 1984.

He takes us inside Windswept as both a loving family member and a keen observer.

Q. If there were a documentary film on Windswept during the Reagan years, what scenes would they show? We’d like to see your father in action.

CW: I remember he had one event early on in the Reagan years. He was communicating with forces in Iraq, or the Gulf, or somewhere unheard-of in the Middle East. Maybe it was Saudi Arabia. He was talking into an enormous phone like the one Michael Douglas had when he walked out of prison as Gordon Gecko in Wall Street II. There was an uplink to a satellite.

I watched him talking outside on the deck.

He had a long conversation of some import that was completely secure. Maybe.

The oldest part of Windswept dates roughly to the Civil War, so the documentary would show scenes there. My mother prized that room, the heart of the house.

So there was quite a bit of activity here, with seating for up to 20 guests and views to the sound. Gen. Powell was up here, of course, and Gen. Vessey. Olympia Snowe, a lovely friend of the family, was here often. She spoke at my dad’s funeral.

A documentary film would show my dad in his first-floor library. It was a lovely gift given to him by my mother. It’s Pentagon-sized. My dad was quite a bibliophile, a lifelong writer. He was born in San FranContinued on next page 1 4 8 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Sound Drive, Mount Desert, its handsome aspect conjures up images of a Mount Vernon plucked from Virginia and nestled with jeweler’s precision into a savagely beautiful setting.

Somes Sound is the only fjord on the East Coast of the U.S. Excuse me, Somes Sound was the only fjord here until it was downgraded to a fjard, something of a geographic embarassment. (Just ask former planet Pluto what that feels like.) In any case, the most profound of Somes Sound’s indigo depths kiss the bottom at 175 feet. The Sound,

which nearly divides Mount Desert Island in two, is still magic.

The dock, suitably, is long enough to tie up a Spruance Class guided-missile destroyer. Approach it from the water, guests traverse the plunging green lawn toward the nine-over-nine Georgian windows and the elegant front door.

Touring the 20-room house results in an echoic sensation, because it’s completely empty. (Honestly, how could you restage the Reagan years?) Eight bedrooms, six full baths, and two half baths round out the

From Top: The knowles Company

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S u m m e r g u i d e 2016 149

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cisco, as was I. He started reviewing books for the Chronicle in San Francisco when he was very young. His desk in Windswept was once owned by Winston Churchill, a favorite of my father’s. If you’re seated at the desk and look left, you look straight down Somes Sound all the way to Beach Mountain, which is absolutely gorgeous.

There’s a presidential feeling to the room.

I remember flags. The HEW flag was there, with book and snake entwined (my father was also Secretary of Health, Education, and Welfare), plus the American Flag.

A documentary filmmaker would have to take to you to his tiny writing room off a bedroom suite that had his old double writing desk from his days in California.

He also had a stand-up inkwell writing desk made by prisoners at Fort Leavenworth. It was decorated with bronze coins showing each branch of the service. From that desk, he could look down the whole length of the sound.

Do you feel personally connected to this house?

CW: Yes, along with my sister and our respective families. I live next door, in a house called Gull Rock, so named because there’s a rock deposited by a glacier on which so many gulls sit. It’s the start of the fjord.

Don’t you mean fjärd? (Must everything be downgraded?)

CW: That happened a few years back, when my dad was still alive. My dad wanted no part of it. He thought that was crazy.

The Sound was always a fjord to him... n Fjord: “Long narrow arm of the sea, commonly extending far inland, that results from marine inundation of a glaciated valley.”

Fjärd: “Rocky inlet of the sea, usually found along relatively low-lying coasts. Formed by the submergence of a glacial valley, fjärds are characteristically more irregularly shaped than the fjords. Like fjords, they may be quite deep and may have thresholds at their mouths. Fjärds are often connected by mazes of channels but are not typically river-fed estuaries.”–britannica.com

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1 5 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

creature comforts. The entire structure is just an eyelash over 8,500 square feet.

There’s an elevator and an in-law apartment. Our favorite place is the paneled library, big enough for a game of jai alai. Secretary Weinberger’s wife, Jane, an author and publisher, must have loved curling up here with her famous collie.

Here those who kept the world secure had a moment of rest to feel secure themselves. It’s vaguely satisfying to know that the kitchen of one of the most powerful men in the Western world needs, by all accounts, a complete redo. Otherwise, this is an astonishing property for those who dare to think big. Sic transit gloria mundi.

Taxes are $12,600. n

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CASTINE MAINE

Summer Events

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Lisa Burton Photo

Fourth of July Celebration • Castine House and Garden Tour • Bastille Day Festival • Plein Air Festival • Castine Classic Yacht Race

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Summerguide 2016 153

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Summerguide 2016 155

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Summerguide 2016 159

Celebrities (continued from page 133)

Michael Chabon & Ayelet Waldman (b.1963) & (b.1964) The literary couple summers in Brooklin.

Chabon’s novel “The Amazing Adventures of Kavalier and Clay” won the Pulitzer for fiction in 2001.

Cidny Bullens

M u s ic i a n /c omp oser

(b.1955) The singer/composer who changed his name from Cindy to Cidny Bullens in 2012 has lived in Cumberland County for two decades. He holds two Grammy nominations, has sung back-up for Elton John, and performed alongside Bob Dylan.

Mary Ellen Chase

(1887-1973) The best-selling writer of Mary Peters was born in Blue Hill and was a graduate of the University of Maine. In a 1936 interview in the Portland Sunday Telegram, Chase declared that she wrote “largely because I want to acquaint others...with the splendid character of Maine people, and

with the unsurpassed loveliness of Maine fields, shores, and sea.”

Howie Day (b.1981) The pop singer was born in Bangor and raised in Brewer. His parents own and run Nicky’s Cruisin’ Diner in Bangor.

Kara DioGuardi

Events Events (continued from page 133)

Bar Harbor Fine Arts Festival Aug 12-14 An upscale arts event showcasing the inspiration artists have taken from Acadia National Parks throughout history. 266-5162

(b.1970) The singer-songwriter and Maine native told Portland Monthly in 2013, “Coming to Prospect Harbor takes me back to my time when I felt the most loved, and most connected with my surroundings.”

Jon Fishman (b.1965) Drummer for the legendary jamband Phish, Fishman originally hails from Lincolnville.

Dan Fogelberg (1951-2007) The American musician died at his beloved home on Deer Isle in 2007. His wife told Portland Magazine how Fogelberg fell for Maine: “[Dan] saw the old sea captain’s house on Deer Isle. It had grass coming through the floorboards, and he instantly fell in love with it.”

Red Cloak Tour for Acadia’s 100th Aug 12 A special Haunted History tour of the town of Bar Harbor, focusing on the history of the Eastern National Park and the surrounding area in 1916. 380-3806 Acadia: Nature as Teacher Exhibit Opening Aug 14 In the culmination of a several-monthlong project, this art exhibit will involve 18 different artists who have gradually captured their impressions of Acadia National Park. 326-7964 Art Meets Science Café–The Making of Art of Acadia Aug 15 This talk by Carl Little will describe the making of his collaborative book, Art of Acadia, which was written with his brother, David Little.

288-3147

Becoming an Artist– Robert Hagberg Aug 16 Robert Hagberg will discuss his relationship with Acadia National Park as it relates to his career as an artist. 288-9226 Life in Southwest Harbor 100 Years Ago Aug 17 The Southwest Harbor Historical Society will give a slide presentation on what life in this area was like 100 years ago. 244-5267

Will & Win Butler M u s ic i ans

(b.1980) The Mainer duo are at the helm of the wildly popular indie rock band Arcade Fire.

They often visit Mount Desert Island, where they spent summers growing up and where their parents still live. Will, Win, and Win’s wife, Regine, recorded their first EP as Arcade Fire in the Butlers’ great-great-great-great-grandfather’s barn in Southwest Harbor. Their multiaward-winning album Funeral was also partially recorded on the island. If you watch their video “Rebellion: Lies,” which has over four million views on Youtube, you may recognize High Road in Southwest Harbor as the setting.

1 6 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

My Two Decades of Writing About Acadia’s Founder– Presentation by Ronald Epp Aug 18 Ronald Epp speaks of his years of research on George Dorr, founder of Acadia National Park. 374-5515 Lobster Picnic Sunset Cruise Safari Aug 18 Acadia Photo Safari will host three special Acadia Centennial Lobster Picnic safaris aboard our locally built 28-foot “lobster yacht.”

In addition to the standard cruise of personalized photography instruction and great photoops, each centennial cruise includes extended

from top: greg hartford; courtesy photo

Demonstration Day at the Seal Cove Auto Museum Aug 18 The Seal Cove Auto Museum demonstrates and offers test rides in one of their Brass Era vehicles. 244-9242

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Summerguide 2016 161

Alex Katz Artist

(1927) The artist, famous for his colorsplashed canvases and portraits, keeps a summer studio in his yellow clapboard house in Lincolnville. The artist’s formative work will be on display at Colby College through the summer.

Terry Goodkind (b.1948) The fantasy writer, best known for The Sword of Truth TV series, owns a home on Mt. Desert Island. According to BangorDaily News, Goodkind said of arriving in Maine for the first time, “I felt like I’d been misplaced in the cosmos and I belonged in Maine.”

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Patty Griffin (b.1964) The “Rain” singer-songwriter was born in Old Town.

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(1877-1943) The American modernist painter and poet was born in Lewiston.

Susan Minot Artist

(b.1956) The acclaimed novelist has penned a collection of novels (Monkeys, Thirty Girls), short stories and essays (Lust & Other Stories), and has even turned her hand at screenwriting. She wrote the 1995 movie Stealing Beauty, starring another Maine girl, Liv Tyler, as a young American visiting relatives in Tuscany. Minot’s work has enraptured critics and won her the Prix Femina Étranger in 1987. Minot splits her year between New York City and her home in North Haven. Speaking to Elle magazine, Minot describes her summer retreat as a place where “work is done with a hammer.”

from top: Museum purchase with support from the Freddy and Regina Homburger Endowment for Acquisitions, Friends of the Collection, and the Harold P. and Mildred A. Nelson Art Purchase Endowment Fund; lionstar

Monhegan Blow Dryer...

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MAINE MARITIME MUSEUM Day trips and overnights with one of the East Coast’s leading sea kayak outfitters.

This is Maine. The rest is history.

Lighthouse cruises.

Trolley tours.

Historic shipyard.

We hope to see you on the water!

- Joe and Tom

207.766.2373 www.maineislandkayak.com info@maineislandkayak.com

www.MaineMaritimeMuseum.org

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20 Rooms of Casual & Comfortable Furniture and Accessories 76 Main St. Newcastle, ME 563-3535 www.sproulsfurniture.net

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With so many choices — from the simple pleasure of tent camping to full-service RV resorts with everything you need, or even comfy cabin rentals — a Maine camping experience is like no other.

CampMaine.com will help you find the camping experience as unique as you are within reach of all you want to see and do in Maine. With easy to use search tools, maps, and resources, Maines Official Camping Guide will virtually point the way.

Get started today at

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Eric Hopkins (b.1951) North Haven Island has certainly influenced the soaring coastal landscapes by this well-loved contemporary artist.

David McCullough (b.1933) The Pulitzer Prize and National Book Award winner keeps a summer residence in Camden.

Don McLean (b.1945) The “American Pie” singer/songwriter lives in Camden with his family.

Authentic Thai Cooking

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Robert McCloskey (1914-2003) The Deer Isle resident wrote and illustrated some of Maine’s most beloved children’s fiction, including Blueberries for Sal and One Morning in Maine.

491 US Route One, Freeport, Maine 1/2 mile south of Exit 20 (Across from Comfort Suite)

Toshiko Mori (b.1951) and James Carpenter (1948) The star architects built a beautiful house on North Haven Island.

Richard Russo (b.1949) The novelist and screenwriter, who won the Pulitzer Prize in fiction for Empire Falls, lives in Camden Maine. This summer he’s following up Nobody’s Fool with Everybody’s Fool.

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Noel Paul Stookey (b.1937) This member of the Peter, Paul & Mary folk trio resides in Blue Hill.

file photo

N.C. Wyeth (1882-1945), Andrew Wyeth (1917-2009), and Jamie Wyeth (b.1946) The Wyeth dynasty encompasses generations of notable painters and illustrators.

Andrew Wyeth, son of iconic illustrator Summerguide 2016 165

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E.B. White A rt i s t

(1899-1985) The author of Charlotte’s Web and coauthor of The Elements of Style moved to Brooklin in 1938. He famously declared, “I would rather feel bad in Maine, than feel good anywhere else.”

Newell Convers Wyeth, is generally recognized as one of the greatest artists of the 20th century. Andrew’s son, Jamie, charts his own extraordinary course. Over the years, Maine has featured heavily in the Wyeths’ work, and the Wyeth Center at the Farnsworth Art Museum in Rockland is dedicated to the family’s art.

R oad War r i o r

“Where Watchmakers Work”

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Moguls/Eminent families

Robert M. Bass (b.1948) The billionaire businessman and owner of Aerion Corporation owns a palatial estate in Seal Harbor on Mount Desert Island.

Leon Leonwood Bean (1872-1967) Practically synonymous with Maine, the creator of the eponymous clothing and outdoors brand hails from Greenwood.

The Cabots One of the “first families of Boston,” these Boston Brahmins made their fortune in trading, medicine, and architecture, dipping their fingers also into politics and philanthropy. Numerous members of the Cabot family have lived on North Haven Island during the summer months.

Henry Ford

C o l i n P a g e , K e t t l e C o v e , 2 01 5 P e o P l e ’ s C h o i C e A w A r d w i n n e r

Paint for Preservation 2016 9 t h a n n u a l W e t Pa i n t a u C t i o n B e n e f i t Sunday, July 10, 2016 | 5:00pm - 8:00pm

Join award-winning artists in celebrating Cape Elizabeth’s natural beauty and agricultural heritage at Spurwink Farm, a bucolic working farm with stunning views of both Higgins Beach and the Spurwink Marsh. Live music, a cocktail reception and a live auction of “wet” artwork painted en plein air throughout the weekend makes this an event not to be missed!

All proceeds benefit the Cape Elizabeth Land Trust A limited number of tickets will be available.

For more information visit: capelandtrust.org/paint

(1863-1947) The “Skylands” estate on built on Mt. Desert Island by the father of the Model T for his son Edsel Ford, is now owned by lifestyle magnate Martha Stewart.

file photo

Edward C. “Ned” Johnson III (b.1930) & daughter Abigail Johnson (b.1961) The title of wealthiest seasonal resident of Mount Desert Island is currently held by Edward C. “Ned” Johnson III, head

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of Fidelity Investments. Johnson, estimated to be worth $8 billion, owns a luxury estate in Bar Harbor.

Roxanne Quimby (b.1950) The co-founder of Burt’s Bees lives in Winter Harbor and is currently attempting to donate thousands of acres to the National Park Service in order to expand Acadia’s protected land.

John Sculley (b.1939) The Apple CEO keeps a vacation home near Camden Harbor.

Wil iam P. Stewart Jr The president of MetLife insurance was accused of embezzling over $60 million of his son’s inheritance to squander on chartered jets to his property on Mount Desert Island and the $20 million cruising vessel Scheherazade, which he moored in Northeast Harbor, according to the New York Post.

The Lindberghs Are the Lindberghs moguls, aviators, or writers? Yes to all three. Charles and Anne Morrow Lind- The Lindberghs on North Haven. bergh spent summer idylls on North Haven Island for decades. Read the full story on the Linbergh estate here: bit.ly/PMLindbergh Shortly before the inception of the Pulitzer Prize, Joseph Pulitzer was one of the first to build a summer home on Mount Desert Island. The family visited the estate in Bar Harbor for many years.

Politicians

Zbigniew Brzezinski (b.1928) The political scientist served as a counselor to President Lyndon B. Johnson 1966–1968 and was President Jimmy Carter’s National Security Advisor from 1977– 1981. In his down time he relaxes at his home in Northeast Harbor.

William Howard Taft (1857-1930) The 27th President (1909–1913) was known to enjoy golfing in Bar Harbor when he wasn’t busy running the country. n 1 6 8 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

From top: National Park Service Kristi Rugg; north haven historical society

The Pulitzers

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Events

“A lake…is the earth’s eye.”

Henry David Thoreau

time for a lobster picnic served on the waters of Somes Sound. Ten percent of all proceeds from this safari will be donated to Friends of Acadia. www.acadiaphotosafari.com

The Champlain Society–Science and The Origins of Conservation in Acadia Aug 18 This lecture by Catherine Schmitt will discuss the History of Science on Mount Desert Island, including records of the various flora and fauna that lead to the creation of Acadia National Park.

276-9323

Milestone Exhibition Aug 21-22 The Bar Harbor Inn showcases the lifetime works of Robert Hagberg and Steven Hileman as they chronicle Acadia in their artwork throughout the years. 288-9226 Mount Desert Mosaic Aug 21 Create your own stained glass mosaic of Acadia National Park with the ArtWaves Community Art Center. 478-9336 Acadia: Nature as Teaching Readings Aug 21In the culmination of a several-monthlong project, writers who have captured their impressions of Acadia National Park will read their works. 326-7964 Before Acadia: Adventure and Discovery Cruise Aug 21 On this cruise of the Eastern coast of Mount Desert, speakers will discuss the Champlain Society and their role in the creation of Acadia National Park. 276-9323 Centennial of First Acadia Celebration Aug 22 Historic speeches from the first celebration of the Acadia conservation will be redelivered by descendents of the original speakers. 669-8256 Lecture: Glaciers to Granite Aug 22 Photographer Tom Blagden will discuss the art of photographing nature in regards to his new book, Acadia National Park: A Centennial Celebration. 801-5622

See it aboard the Katahdin.

Katahdin Cruises on Moosehead Lake Sailing late June through Columbus Day Tel: (207) 695-2716 Fax: (207) 695-2367 PO Box 1151 Greenville, ME 04441

www.katahdincruises.com

The

Tidewater

Motel Vinalhaven Island, Maine

Final Dance Aug 26 Traditional Acadia partner dance, with optional lessons followed by an open dance to mixed, recorded music. 288-5008 The Gift of Acadia: A Celebration of The Acadia Centennial Aug 27 Celebrating the past and present of Acadia National Park through a variety of concerts, performances, and ceremonial presentations. 288-8805

Twice a day all the water in the Atlantic heads for this fine waterfront lodging and meeting facility.

You should too.

You’ll be glad you did. info@tidewatermotel.com • 207-863-4618 • tidewatermotel.com Summerguide 2016 169

Eye

in the Sky Hear something buzzing in your ear? It might not be a mosquito. Drones let us spy on a world we could never see otherwise. Trouble is, their deadly impersonality makes the moral cost of the beauty they bring us extremely high. Pictured: The Portland skyline.

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P e r s pective

Unmanned aircraft systems give us the ability to observe Maine’s unparalleled beauty from a lofty perspective. But at what cost?

By sarah Moore

chris trafford, hoverflow

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t’s a sunny Sunday out at Fort Williams Park: families are milling around the lighthouse, stopping to take pictures of the spectacular view. It’s your typical weekend scene in Maine. Moments later, a large plastic quadcopter swoops into view, its rotor blades whirring as it dives back and forth over the heads of the unsuspecting public.

Only a few hours later, on the deck of Brian Boru, a young guy–perhaps a few pints down–sends his drone sweeping over the TD Bank parking lot, to the delight of his peers.

Drone Photography by Chris T rafford

The sight of these futuristic flying pods is increasingly common in Maine. Even more frequent are the stories of drone-related incidents across the country: aviation interference, crowd-bombing, and an untimely landing on the White House lawn. Those who saw Eye in the Sky in theaters recently may experience a familiar chill. The film’s examination into the deadly efficiency of drones in surveillance and military operation raises questions of moral accountability. Is this technology, with its all-seeing eyes, fruit from a poisonous tree?e?

the deal with drones Unmanned aircraft systems (UAS) exploded onto the consumer market in 2012. Their advanced, yet easy-to-control design and filming capability made them a mainstream success outside of the traditional model-aircraft circles. With social media turning everyone into an amateur photographer, the appeal was widespread In the intervening years, technology behind the machines has skyrocketed almost as quickly as their sales. At The Hobby Center in West Falmouth, you can pick Summerguide 2016 171

per spective

up a UAS with onboard video camera for as little as $59. The range goes right up to a hulking $1,500 model–with 6 rotor blades, 4K video and 12 mega-pixel photo quality– straight out of science fiction. Go online and models from Asia are a fraction of the cost.

“We started stocking drones in 2012 and demand was huge,” says Hobby Center owner Ray Labonte. “Most of our buyers were enthusiasts–people who wanted to fly as a hobby.” thers saw a business opportunity. Chris Trafford of HoverFlow was quick to realize the potential of drone photography, setting up his aerial imagery business in 2012 with a single hexacopter model and a camera. Four years later, the business owns a fleet of top-of-the-range drones, equipped with 360-degree DSLR cameras and advanced operation systems.

Hoverflow boasts Angry Orchard, Tough Mudder, and L.L. Bean as clients.

Trafford’s videos are mesmerizing. His camera pans across familiar scenes–Higgins Beach, Portland’s wharfs–the lofty vantage point capturing the scale and beauty of Maine’s landscape. “Tourism-based shooting seems to be our main focus. We enjoy the variety of landscapes and seasonal changes Maine has to offer. ”

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Portland Head Light as you’ve never seen it before.

Below: Looking down at the bustle on Commerical Street at night.

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Public Nuisance he view isn’t all rosy from up here. Backlash against the flying pests has been rife in the past few years. Many bemoan the sight and sound of the insectile machines buzzing around areas of natural beauty, leading to a ban in 2014 on drone flying in the majority of national parks. The Federal Aviation Administration has scrambled to outline rules for drone users in the wake of a spate of incidents nationwide.

In March 2015, the Portland Jetport was brought to a standstill when a quadcopter landed and blocked a runway.

Chris Cameron, Assistant GM of the Portland Sea Dogs, recalls a rogue drone flying over Hadlock Field mid-game in 2015.

“A few of the spectators started noticing this tiny aircraft buzzing over the field, and luckily our security and the police were able to quickly track down the operator. Nowadays our staff are trained to keep an eye out for drones overhead and report it to security.”

According to park ranger Paige Button,

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Per s pective

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the issue lies in a lack of education among operators, and a lack of control among law enforcers. “The biggest problem with drone flying is the fact there are no solid rules in place. The FAA is working to create national regulations, but until that happens, local government has little opportunity for enforcement or control.”

HoverFlow’s Chris Trafford is confident that the efforts of the FAA and drone manufactures will continue to make drone practice safer and less invasive.

“GPS barriers around most airports, alti-

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Per s pective tude caps, automated return-to-home systems are becoming common among drones manufactured today,” he notes. Updates to hardware and regulations are all positive in his book. Although... “We do wish we had captured Acadia National Park prior to the ban of drones over such protected lands.”

The Future of Flying? hat lies in store for drones? Rich Swayze of the FAA predicted that December 2015 would see one million drones landing beneath Christmas trees across the country. In the end, the figure fell short at just over 700,000. Labonte notes that “sales have definitely started tapering off,” indicating that perhaps the craze has run its course–or that tightening FAA restrictions are cooling the ardor of hobby pilots.

Instead, we could see a rise in alternative forms of flying fun. Miami Dolphins owner Stephen Ross just invested $1 million in the Drone Racing League, a start-up looking to bring FPV [first-person drone racing] to the general public. The sport combines traditional racing and technology: competitors build and race their UAS while wearing video goggles linked to the drone’s front camera.

“FPV has really taken off out West. It could develop into a travelling competition like NASCAR,” says Labonte. “Ross hosted the first FPV race around the Dolphins stadium in January. Other stadiums are now offering to host the sport during their off-season.”

Perhaps next winter will see Hadlock Field welcoming drones to its pitch? n

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Dream Isle

Going above & beyond the tourists at Spring Point Light (above) and Mount Battie in Camden (below).

Summerguide Hack: To recreate our cover shot, stand right here • #summerguiding.

chris trafford

Don’t miss. Watch birds fighting back against drones: bit.ly/birdvdrone

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d i s covery

Journey Without Maps F r o m Sta ff & W ire reports

Travel through Maine beauty by beauty. In the age of GPS, cultural landmarks guide you through Maine’s history.

From top: white cedar inn; Teresa Chrzanowski Flisiuk (2)

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ou’re driving down an uninspiring stretch of Route 302–just outside Windham, beyond the statue of Lenny, the 13-foot-tall TV repairman with his red lunch box at Hawkes Plaza–when you catch sight of a mirage ahead, gleaming silver in the sun.

Pull closer and you’ll see the source is a low cement garage, covered entirely in polished hubcaps. Dick’s Place–part shop, part shrine to automobiles–run by local octogenarian Dick Wolstenhume, has caused rubbernecking along this stretch since 1943, when Dick’s father bought the site and started hanging up hubcaps to advertise the business. Speaking to Mainetoday.com, Wolstenhume described how the project took off organically. “People kept coming and bringing stuff in. They’re just like rabbits, they keep growing!”

When you pass these hubcaps, you know

From top: South Freeport’s Casco Castle lends a jaunty medieval accent to the harbor views; Charles Bulfinch designed Maine’s memorable State Capitol building.

“The Wedding Cake House” in Kennebunk is inspired by the Milan Cathedral in Italy.

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d i s covery Portland Museum of Art in the heart of the city, was designed by star architect and part-time North Haven resident, I.M Pei.

Traveling 'Beauty by Beauty' Our title for this story is inspired by Graham Greene's 1936 book Journey Without Maps (1936), in which he leaves Europe for the first time to venture into the African interior. Arriving, he's unsettled to realize his U.S. map offers definition on the coast, but there's a large white void in the chart's center with the tiny label: cannibals. Our Maine equivalent might be Red Sox Fans. Traveling with guides and by word of mouth, Greene follows a stunningly different route directed by waterfall, leopard skulls, and chance. Now that Mapquest and Googlemaps are calling the shots, the chance to navigate via dreamy landmarks both excites and reassures. Of course it helps if you're one of these places. Here's a longtime Kennebunkport maxim: "If you drive past the Colony Hotel, you've gone too far."

It's one thing to Yelp your way to the corner of State Street and Congress, but how that blushes in the face of “Just walk to the statue of Longfellow in Longfellow Square, where all the cafes are.”

from top: maineartmuseums.org; greg hartford

you’re well on your way to Sebago Lake.

Ask a Mainer for directions and the response may well be peppered with colorful visual curiosities that have become part of the physical and cultural landscape.

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rying to get to South Freeport from Portland? Take a right off Route 1, just before the Freeport Big Indian.

You heard right. The 30-foot-high chieftain looms over his surroundings, spear and shield at the ready. Commissioned in 1968

by Julian Leslie, then owner of Casco Bay Trading Post, the chief caused an unprecedented traffic jam on the New Jersey Turnpike a year later as he traveled by truck from Pennsylvania to Maine where he remains, stoic and imposing, to this day.

The lumberjack legend Paul Bunyan looms over Bangor.

On your way to South Freeport, stay alert to spot another slice of Maine history among the trees: the turreted crown of a gray stone tower is the last vestige of the Casco Castle.

Built in 1903 by entrepreneur Amos Gerald, the Casco Castle was an imposing pile of gray-shingled wood designed to resemble a turreted fortress.

Gerald hoped to increase patronage of his electric trolley line by building the castle into a resort hotel complex surrounded by an amusement park, zoo, formal gardens, and picnic grounds accessible from the Brunswick-Yarmouth Street Railway.

Unfortunately the showy facade failed to attract the fashionable crowd and as the rise of the automobile led to the decline of trolleys, the hotel closed after only a few

seasons. Finally, in 1914, a blaze destroyed all but the remaining stone tower.

If flashy architecture is your thing, a trip along Route 35–connecting Kennebunkport to the Maine Turnpike–will reward you with a sighting of “The Wedding Cake House,” the gabled, primrose-yellow tribute to European Gothic style that stands resplendent on Summer Street.

Designed and built in 1825 by shipbuilder George Bourne, the “Wedding Cake’”holds the title of “most-photographed house in Maine,” thanks to its intricate wooden trim and numerous buttresses and pinnacles.

As you swoop north on I-295 past Portland, you’ll find your eyes drawn to the right-hand shore. The vintage architecture, towering brick chimney, and industrial hues of the B&M Baked Bean factory are juxtaposed with the serenity of Casco Bay. Talk about retro-industrial chic. You can imagine the factory workers taking a moment to gaze out across the water in between stirring 900 pounds of beans at the brick ovens.

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ending your way into Portland’s working waterfront, you may catch sight of another industrial icon. The hand-lettered sign on this elegant brick building situated on West Commercial Street just after the Casco Bay Bridge tells of its history. The Star Match Factory was a major producer of New England’s matches from 1870 to 1908. According to the USM archives, the factory was unusual for employing a large female workforce; however, working conditions were extremely poor.

Each woman was equipped with a basin holding a wet sponge to put out fires when Summerguide 2016 181

d i s c o v e ry the matches accidentally ignited, and many suffered phosphorus poisoning, which could not only damage teeth but lead to “phossy jaw,” the destruction of the jawbone. These days a number of local business inhabit sections of the complex, including Home Remedies and the World Arts Co-op, introducing their own color schemes to create a pleasing patchwork with the original russetred paint still bookending the old factory.

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ext, point your car north towards Bangor and be sure to keep an eye out for the town’s most recognizable resident. Towering 37-feet over Main Street, the legendary lumberjack, Paul Bunyan, grins down with his bushy beard and flannel shirt–a true Maine boy (although other states claim the o myth).

Bangor’s more diminutive but equally famous habitant, Stephen King, was clearly not convinced by Bunyan’s benign smile.

The writer brought the legend to life in terrifying measure in his novel It. Transplanted to the fictional town of Derry, Bunyan comes to life–axe-wielding and murderous– to terrorize one of the young protagonists.

These cultural exclamation points, towering above their surroundings, have become part of the fabric of local knowledge. If you’re taking a trip to Vacationland this summer, turn off the GPS and let the landmarks guide.

The Big Indian carved in epoxy resin, and fiberglass in 1969 by artists Rodman Shutt, Julian Leslie, and Mike Leslie; guides drivers to Freeport; and great sandwiches at Old World Gourmet.

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from top: national Archives; inset: detroit publishing company; bar man’s journal; public domain

Hacking

They say cellphones have cut our attention spans in half. Thanks to The Maine Hack, you’re covered! We know you’re in a hurry. So here’s all you need to know about Maine this summer.

Remember the Maine? t’s too late to help the USS Maine, which exploded in Havana Harbor in 1898, but we can be drink to her health by mixing up the classic cocktail with the soubriquet Remember the Maine.

The first published recipe of this distinguished drink came from writer and cocktail aficionado Charles H. Baker, in his 1939 classic The Gentleman’s Companion, or Around the World with Jigger, Beaker and Flask. Described by some as part Sazerac and part Manhattan, the elixer is an excellent tonic for nerves. Baker writes about enjoying this very drink during the escalating violence of the 1933 uprisings in Havana: Each time he knocked back a “Remember the Maine,” he re-experienced a “hazy memory of a Night in Havana during the Unpleasantnesses of 1933, when Each Swallow Was Punctuated with Bombs Going off on the Prado...”

Baker advises that the drink be stirred “briskly in a clock-wise fashion.” We advise you to enjoy a glass overlooking the ocean this summer.

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JAMIE WYETH June 30 - October 31

Forever changing the nature of Mount Desert Island

S eal C ove a uto M uSeuM

Exploring the impact of community decisions on MDI through a choose-your-own-adventure exhibit.

Open Daily, 10am - 5pm, May 1 - Oct 31 http://www.sealcoveautomuseum.org

1414 Tremont Road, Seal Cove, Maine 207.244.9242, info@sealcoveautomuseum.org

Holy Homerus If you don’t want Mainers to know you’re “from away,” think twice before you charge into a lobster pound and demand they boil you up a three-pound lobster. The bigger the better doesn’t apply. It’s the more diminutive models (from one pound to 1.25 pounds) that tend to be sweeter. Instead, impress the locals by requesting a “chicken” lobster (1 lb.). N.B.: Thrifty Mainers prefer soft-shell lobsters over the more expensive hard shells.

N.C. Wyeth: Painter

N.C. Wyeth (1882-1945), Herring!, ca. 1935, oil on canvas, 48 ⅛ x 52 ⅛”.

Collection of Phyllis and Jamie Wyeth

May 21–December 31 Rockland, Maine 2016 Sponsors include Richard Gilder and Lois Chiles, Mr. and Mrs. George Twigg III. Community Partners include Maritime Energy. The exclusive media sponsor of the exhibition is

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Hacking the Appalachian Trail

Not enough time to hike the Appalachian Trail? Watch this 5-minute video on YouTube (bit.ly/1UsiuVl) to view Maine’s dazzling wilderness sights from the comfort of your couch. As a no-risk means of ogling Mt. Katahdin, it’s also far less exhausting than watching the mind-numbing Robert Redford/Nick Nolte bromance A Walk in the Woods (Broad Green Pictures, 2015).

Clockwise from top left: file photo; portland museum of art, leonardo da vinci, oild on canvas on panel; paramount pictures; blueberry bliss; file photos(2); detail from “american fascist”; radcliffe dacanay

ogunquitmuseum.org

d i s covery

Show Some Gumption

Lurking Leonardo

Hacking da Vinci? The Mona Lisa has already been hacked in Maine. If you happen to visit the Portland Art Museum this summer, you may spot her familiar face among the crowd. Now part of the museum’s permanent collection, this slightly shy copy of Leonardo DaVinci’s masterpiece, with somewhat smoky provenance, was purchased in the 1980s. Maybe that’s why she isn’t front and center? Admission is free on Friday evenings.

Sensational Superfoods

Don’t be surprised if you get a sense of déjà vu walking along the ramp toward Marshall Point Lighthouse. Not only the site of many an Instagram landscape, it was also featured as the second checkpoint on Tom Hanks’ epic cross-country run as Forrest Gump in the classic 1994 film. Get ready to dodge all the other tourists attempting to re-create the same scene.

Real Mainers wouldn’t dream of buying berries they can pick themselves, but this takes time. Don’t waste yours on cultivated supermarket blueberries as big as beach balls.

Instead, as you’re speeding down Route 1, keep an eye out for roadside stands selling ragtag quarts of their smaller, wild cousins that our state is famous for.

Come on, Teddy, smile!

Impress Mainer friends with your local knowledge by referring to the five identical concrete homes that crown the middle of Danforth Street by their insider nickname, “Teddy’s Teeth.” These residences, with views of the Fore River, have long been referred to as such on account of their similarity to the former president’s squaretoothed grin.

Derided following their construction in 1906 by speculative developer Lucien Snow, these houses have since become part of the neighborhood’s identity. Behind the boxy façades, each interior boasts lovely moldings, maple floors, a central fireplace, and a graceful staircase.

Summerguide 2016 187

Katie Arnold Photography

B.E.

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Clockwise from top left: phsychorgone.com; file photo; staff Illustration - Italian: fromaway.com Malcolm Bedell; file photos(4); “miracle at St. Anna” - walt disney

Up in the Rangeley mountains, one of the world’s most radical researchers of psychiatry carried out his extreme experiments. A proponent of the power of “orgone,” a hypothetical universal life force, Dr. Wilhelm Reich (a student of Sigmund Freud) created a variety of “orgone accumulators” designed to collect the universe’s energy for general health and even weather control. You can visit Reich’s final laboratory “Orgonon,’ a.k.a. the Wilhelm Reich Museum in Rangeley, and even rent the cottage that the Reich family used to inhabit.

Just to put things in perspective when shopkeepers pass you Canadian coins with your change: A Norse coin discovered at a Native American burial site in Brooklin, Maine, is believed to have made its way to Maine via the Vikings. The Maine State Museum describes the penny, dating from 1182-1235, as “the only preColumbian Norse artifact generally regarded as genuine found within the United States.”

Not only heroes are born here. Vilified World War II radio propagandist Mildred Gillars, who broadcasted from Berlin as Axis Sally, was one of us. She grew up near the Victoria Mansion. During the war she tried to demoralize U.S. GIs by insinuating on her radio show that they were fighting for a lost cause while their girlfriends back home were dating draft dodgers. Never heard of Axis Sally? She was like Tokyo Rose. Never heard of Tokyo Rose?

She was the radio propagandist for the Japanese. Except she wasn’t just one person like Axis Sally; nearly a dozen women broadcasted under that composite name, so she was kind of like Lassie. Never heard of Lassie? Woof.

Clockwise from top: Mos-Ness Dressing by Schlotterbeck & Foss is the unsung secret of Maine salads.

The Italian sandwich was invented in Portland in 1899 by Italian baker Giovanni Amato.

The official state treat is the whoopie pie (not to be confused with the official state dessert, which is blueberry pie, naturally).

Maine maple syrup goes perfectly with pancakes, waffles, bacon, or pretty much anything.

The B&M Baked Bean factory in Portland creates this smoky and delicious side dish in traditional brick ovens.

When it comes to blueberries, the smaller, darker local varietals are the ones to pick.

Moxie: Maine heritage, medicinal flavor/ Maine lobster. Need we say more?

You’ve Got Moxie Axis Sally was convicted of treason and sentenced to Alderson Women’s Reformatory in West Virginia. Other Alderson alumni include Billie Holiday and Martha Stewart.

Can Maine-grown soda pop give you superpowers? Red Sox star and Moxie poster-boy Ted Williams was famous for his ability to read the spin on a baseball hurtling towards him at 90 m.p.h. His super vision also served him well as a fighter pilot during World War II. More recently, the Boston Globe reported in 2013 that after Williams’s death in 2002, his head had been severed and cryogenically preserved in a “large can about the size of a lobster pot.” His son, who barely outlived him by two years, had dreams of someday sharing his father’s super vision with the world by cloning his eyes.

Wouldn’t it be simpler just to drink Moxie? n Summerguide 2016 189

Va n i s h i n g maine

The Last

Picture

Show?

The man behind the camera at Pride’s Corner Drive-In is ready for his close-up.

from top: ted lampron; Michael Schoch; file image

W

By michae l schoch

hen I meet up with the owner of Pride’s Corner Drive-in, 47-year-old Andrew Tevanian, he’s dressed as a World War II medic. His blonde hair streams out of an authenticlooking helmet and as he shakes my hand he all but shouts, “Pride’s Corner Drive-in needs a heart transplant to stay open.”

We meet at Corsetti’s in Westbrook, where we sit at a picnic table that Tevanian has spangled in American flags and Veteran’s Affairs banners. He is accompanied by a cameraman, with whom he is making a documentary about the fate of the drivein. In a flurry of what sound like campaign slogans, Tevanian alternately praises the veterans for whom drive-in theaters were originally built to entertain, and makes references to the erratic heartbeat of his family’s

establishment–hence his costume.

Tevanian likens the Pride’s Corner Drivein, which his father (himself a WWII vet) opened in 1952, to “a prehistoric animal that’s still breathing, but just barely.” To stay open, the theater will need to convert from 35mm film projectors to digital. “What we’re running up against is technology,” he laments. “35mm film is becoming obsolete.”

Drive-ins were once ubiquitous throughout America, fostering first loves and family bonding. “If I had a dollar for every baby that was conceived at that theater,” Andrew says, “I’d [pay to] have Pink Floyd get back together.” Nowadays, there are only six drive-ins in Maine and (according to Tevanian) several of them are struggling with the conversion to digital.

After we head over to Pride’s Corner, Summerguide 2016 191

va n i s h i n g m aine Andrew takes me on a tour of the snack bar and projection rooms, pointing to a pile of boxes containing film reels from last year. “This is the film,” he says. “They don’t even pick it up now. It’s more expensive to pick it up [and bring it back to the distributor] than it is to leave it.”

Without digital projectors, Pride’s Corner has no product to sell or service to offer. The theater is such a part of Andrew’s life he likens its closure to the illness of a family member, “this is like my dad in the nursing home. At 89 years old; it’s $400 a day to keep him alive, and I need $80,000 to keep the drive-in alive.”

As we pace through the narrow corridors of the unlit snack bar, Andrew mentions his father repeatedly. John Tevanian, a first-generation Armenian-American, opened the theater in 1953 with his brother, Avadis Tevanian. John now resides in an assisted-living home. Tearing up as he holds an empty film reel, Andrew says, “I have sorrowful nights thinking about how this is something my dad put together. Soon he’ll leave this earth. And [the drive-in] will either continue or...” he trails off before stating the alternative.

O

ver in Bridgton, Andrew’s brother, John Stephen Tevanian runs another drive-in, the Bridgton Twin, originally bought by their father in 1971. John has made his own sacrifices to update the Bridgton theater, updating his entire snack bar to offset the costs of the projectors. Over the phone, John muses, “A reasonable person would probably have said you’re better off doing something else, but I was born in the business.” His dedication isn’t lost on Andrew, who says, “My brother married the drive-in. The drive-in is essentially his wife.”

Cousins Greg, Mike, and Alan Tevanian own both Westport Motor Sports and Westport Bowling. Another cousin, Avie Jr., lives out in Silicon Valley and is currently the managing director of an investment firm. Avie achieved fame from 1997 to 2003 as the Senior Vice President of Software Engineering at Apple, working directly with Steve Jobs to revive the then-failing company and designing the revolutionary OS-8 Mac software system. [Read our interview with Avie: “Pride’s Corner,” October 1997] Andrew seems aware that the technology gods have been fickle with the Tevanian family: the same advances in digital technology that helped propel Avie’s meteoric career have indirectly lead to the current

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Summerguide 2016 193

2016 | 2017 SEASON

PHOTO: LISA MARIE MAZZUCCO

An Intimate Evening with Kristin Chenoweth

PHOTO: STEVE VACCARIELLO

The Jones Family Singers

Ms. Lisa Fischer & Grand Baton

JANUARY 20, 2017 • 8 PM

MARCH 25, 2017 • 8 PM

SEPTEMBER 29, 2016 • 7:30 PM

JCT Trio Red Baraat

JANUARY 22, 2017 • 4 PM

“Saturday Night Fever” MARCH 31, 2017 • 8 PM

OCTOBER 6, 2016 • 8 PM

“Brown Bear, Brown Bear and Other Treasured Stories by Eric Carle” OCTOBER 15, 2016 • 11 AM

Vocalosity

Golden Dragon Acrobats

JANUARY 26, 2017 • 7:30 PM

APRIL 6, 2017 • 7 PM

Yuval Ron Ensemble featuring Dervish Aziz FEBRUARY 4, 2017 • 8 PM

BalletX OCTOBER 20, 2016 • 7:30 PM

“Once” FEBRUARY 8 & 9, 2017 • 7:30 PM

Cirque Mechanics: “Pedal Punk” OCTOBER 27, 2016 • 7 PM

“RENT” 20th Anniversary Tour NOVEMBER 5, 2016 • 2 & 8 PM

A Far Cry featuring David Krakauer NOVEMBER 15, 2016 • 7:30 PM

Mike Daisey: “Khan and the Whale: The Wrath of Moby Dick” NOVEMBER 18, 2016 • 8 PM

DECEMBER 18, 2016 • 3 PM

APRIL 13, 2017 • 7:30 PM

Emanuel Ax APRIL 15, 2017 • 3 PM

Handel & Haydn Society

The Gloaming

FEBRUARY 11, 2017 • 3 PM

APRIL 20, 2017 • 8 PM

“Alan Cumming Sings Sappy Songs”

“Annie” APRIL 27, 2017 • 6 PM

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Jenny Scheinman: “Kannapolis: A Moving Portrait”

Elephant & Piggie’s “We Are in a Play!”

MAY 7, 2017 • 1 PM

MARCH 10, 2017 • 8 PM

“Pippin” BodyTraffic MARCH 18, 2017 • 8 PM

The LeeVees

Ragamala Dance Company: “Sacred Earth”

Philharmonia Quartett Berlin MARCH 19, 2017 • 3 PM

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Avadis “Avie” Tevania,the former Chief Software Technology Officer at Apple, has made his fortune in digital development. Tevanian features as a key character in the 2015 biopic, Steve Jobs. To read the screenplay visit: http://bit.ly/1raoZSt

struggles of Pride’s Corner. Yet regarding his cousin’s success, Andrew is unwaveringly supportive. “He’s made quite a life for himself out there with hard work and determination.” Avie occasionally visits the drivein during summers, but Andrew has never considered approaching him–or any of his family members for that matter–for financial support. “They have their own lives and their own businesses,” he says.

To raise money, Andrew started a GoFundMe campaign last year, but it’s now “dead in the water.” Tevanian hopes to start an IndieGoGo fund soon. In the meantime, those who would like to help can try messaging Andrew on Facebook, or visiting the Pride’s Corner website. I ask Andrew if he knows when, if at all, he will open the drivein this year. He shrugs his shoulders. “Basically I’m flying by the seat of my pants.” In lieu of films to play, he’s considering introducing, “some sort of music festival…maybe an outdoor stage with music and performances.” Times are lean for the local landmark. Patting his stomach, the helmeted theater owner explains, “I feel pressure in a lot of ways. I’m not like this normally. I’m not thin–but I’m eating cereal and soy milk every day. I’m not eating lobster rolls.”

Ever passionate and somewhat erratic, Andrew closed out our discussion by posing as the Statue of Liberty, one hand clutching an invisible torch and the other cradling his elderly terrier: “I pledge to America–like the Statue of Liberty that holds her torch high in the air–to keep this drive-in alive, just like she keeps the harbors of New York alive…

This is what makes us the best country in the world. God bless.” n You can donate to Pride’s Corner at: http://bit.ly/ PridesCorner

(207) 773-3906 davidwood.com

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Shipping News

wat e rfront

Portland’s busiest season gets underway: Nautical news from past and present. from staff & wire reports

Summer in Maine is the perfect time to test your sea legs and admire the beautiful coastline from the ocean. Here’s what you need to know about this year’s visiting ships.

Ghost Ships he tallest ship of them is coming to Portland this summer–just not by water. Titanic: The Artifact Exhibition will be at Portland Science Center from June 18 until mid-September, ready to transport visitors back 104 years to the greatest mariClockwise from bottom left: Premier Exhibitions (4); the cat

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time tragedy of our age.

The story of the “unsinkable ship” is well known, but you may not have realized the Titanic also had Maine connections. A number of Acadia’s illustrious summer rusticators were among the passengers on the fateful maiden voyage.

A prominent member of the Astor clan, John Jacob IV, was traveling back from honeymoon with his pregnant 19-year-old bride, Madeleine, when fate intervened. Madeleine was rescued, but her new husband perished at sea. Devastated, Madeleine refused to talk of the tragedy for many years. She continued to visit La Selva, Astor’s cottage in Bar Harbor, during the following summers with her sister and son, John “Jakey” Astor VI. In 1916, Mrs. Astor renounced her $5 million widow’s trust ($103 million in today’s money) to marry banker William Dick, a childhood friend.

With his wife and daughter, Cushing Island resident Charles Melville Hays was also aboard the ship. During the disaster, Hays was quick to get his family into the limited lifeboats. Mac Smith, author of Mainers on the Titanic [2015], reports that his daughter, Orian Hays, “was so sure they would see [her father] again, we didn’t even kiss goodbye.” Many hours later, she offered up her straw hat to set alight and catch the attention of the rescue boat RMS Carpathia. The Hays family still owns and visits their residence on Cushing Island to

The Cat fares start at $107 for an adult, $199 for a car. June 15–September 30. Portland to Yarmouth departs 2:30 p.m. Yarmouth to Portland departs 8:30 a.m. 877-762-7245 ferries.ca/thecat

this day.

A Brunswick local and Bowdoin graduate, Richard White Jr., boarded for the maiden voyage with his father, as a reward for finishing his studies early. No trace of them was found.

Cruise to Nova Scotia Meow. I’m back (though I’m a different vessel). In current maritime news, the ferry connection between Portland and Yarmouth, Nova Scotia will be significantly speedier from June 15 onwards. Bay Ferries Ltd. plans Summerguide 2016 197

The Way Maine Does Summer Cruise Casco Bay on our 85’ Two-Deck Harbor Cruiser hosting up to 149 guests

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to re-introduce a high-speed catamaran service that will allow passengers to make the crossing in just 5.5 hours. The new ferry, like her forebear named The Cat, can carry 750 passengers and 280 cars on her decks. She will replace the Nova Star service, which took nearly twice as long and saw disappointing sales during its two years of service.

Only time will tell if The Cat (one of two ships from the bankrupt Hawaii Superferries which were in turn sold to the U.S. Navy, which is leasing one to Bay Ferries and preparing the other for military service, according to Boston.com) will get the cream of Maine’s tourist trade, but with over 100,000 cruise ship visitors expected in Portland, there’s no doubt the city’s streets and waterways will be swarming this summer.

from top: pixxiesuncle.wordpress.com; sean kruger

The View From Kittery Point ou can still marvel at the fleet of tall ships visiting Portsmouth this summer, without even having to leave Maine. Kittery Point provides a spectacular vantage point from which to watch the opening event of Sail Portsmouth 2016, the majestic Parade of Sail up the Piscataqua River.

Leading the spectacle will be the star of the show, the 170-foot El Galeón Andalucía. This replica 16th century galeón is a unique example of the 500 year-old boat that brought the Spanish explorer, Juan Ponce de León, to the eastern shore of Florida. Grab your deck chair and binoculars and watch this 495-ton historic vessel cruise by.

Behind her will follow the schooner Lynx, a beautiful 122 foot, two-masted replica of an early privateer used during the War of 1812 to evade British naval fleet. Her design made her one of the fastest and most maneuverable ships in the American arsenal. Look closely and you may see the 12 replica cannons that

would have armed the original Lynx.

Keep an eye out for a slice of Maine maritime history sailing up the Piscataqua. Several traditional reproduction “gundalows,” a shallow draft type of cargo barge once common in the Gulf of Maine’s rivers and estuaries, will also be joining the parade.

Among the display will be the first ocean-going, full-rigged ship to have been built in the United States in over 100 years, The Oliver Hazard Perry.

At 196 feet and with three masts of 130 feet each, this enormous vessel, built last year in Newport, was a favorite at last year’s Portland Tall Ships festival.

Private boats are also welcome join the parade and enter the harbor in style alongside these spectacu-

Local Sailing Adventures fter the success of last summer’s festival, Tall Ships Portland is turning its attention toward getting Maine students on the high seas this summer. In partnership with Northeast Maritime Institute,

A

lar tall ships.

Sail Portsmouth 2016 runs Aug. 10-14. Gates open at 10 a.m. each day. Tickets available at the gate or at sailportsmouth.org

Begini

Aug. 1ng 0!

Portsm o uth

Sean Kruger caught this image of El Galeon during his recent stop on the Portland waterfront.

Summerguide 2016 199

Waterfron t

Set Sail!

Students will learn how to sail 74-foot tall ship Fritha across Gulf of Maine as part of the Northeast Maritime Institute’s summer program.

Casco Bay Lines Summer schedule June 18-Sept. 5, 774-7871, cascobaylines.com

Bagheera & Wendameen Available for morning or afternoon sails or all-day private charter. May 1-Oct. 27, Maine State Pier, portlandschooner. com, 766-2500

Tall Ships will offer sailing courses for students, aged between 13 to 18, aboard the traditionally crafted brigantine Fritha. She’ll will make eight separate five-day voyages over the summer break, taking groups of students across the Gulf of Maine under the power of sail. lso visiting Portland this summer are some of last year’s favorite Tall Ships. The schooner Bowdoin, flagship of the Maine Maritime Academy, was built by the Hodgdon Brothers of East Boothbay in 1921 to survey Arctic waters.

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That means her timbers were built to stand up to the kind of scrapes that took down the Titanic.

Bagheera sailed in the Bermuda Race shortly after being built in 1924, and went on to a long racing career, winning the Chicago-Mackinac Race. Wendameen (1912) hosted such guests as Katherine Anne Porter and playwright Eugene O’Neill. She was sold off and left to rot during the Depression, until rescued by Captain Neal Parker, who found her in a mudbank in the 1980s and had her restored from the keel up. n

Take a 2-hour sail on Casco Bay on Schooner Glory, a half-scale replica of an 18th century Marblehead Class schooner. schoonerglory.com, 245-8758

Clockwise from left: courtesy tall ships portland; meaghan Maurice; casco bay lines; courtesy photos

Frances Keep your eyes peeled for Acoustic Sunset Cruises throughout the summer! mainesailingadventures.net, 619-1842

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Summerguide 2016 201

Going Home

After a hospital stay, we know your goal is to return home and it is our job to help get you there.

Our highly qualified Skilled/Rehab Team will work together to get you back home, doing the things you enjoy as soon as possible.

• • • • • •

Physician/Medical Provider Visits Physical Therapy Occupational Therapy Speech Therapy Skilled Nursing Care Discharge Planning and Education

Welcome Home If you are in need of additional support with housekeeping, personal assistance, medication management, consider us as your new home.

With 28 Private Assisted Living Apts. and a variety of floor plans, our intimate size allows us to customize our services to meet your needs.

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i n s i d e story

Oversexed, Overfed,

Over Here Sweden bristles at “invasion” of Maine lobsters, asks EU for ban…

But China can’t get enough.

from top:simplylobsters.com; doctor Macro; H. Zell

T

From Staff & Wire R eports

hat, in a nutshell, is what the Swedes think of the American lobster from Maine, New England,” writes the Guardian. “It may be much sought after in restaurants, but Sweden does not want the American crustacean to darken EU waters in case it spreads diseases and kills off its smaller cousin. The Swedish environment ministry on Friday asked the EU to list the Maine lobster as an invasive species and ban the import of the live creatures.” Speaking off the record, a Maine lobster industry official quips, “You’d think Sweden would be more worried about other things overrunning it than Maine lobsters.”

Here in Maine, it’s flattering that the country that released Anita Ekberg, Ingrid Bergman, Ann-Margret, Greta Garbo, Lena Olin, Britt Ekland, and Maud Adams into the wild would consider anything from Maine oversexed. But the rest of the comments seem off-target. The refrain from the Maine lobster industry is, Where’s the science?

The Guardian quotes the Swedes as say-

ing Maine’s critters “pose several potential risks for native species. Competing for space and resources, they can interbreed with local species and produce hybrid species, which we don’t know will be viable or not,” said Dr Paul Stebbing of the Centre for Environment, Fisheries and Aquaculture science.” Specifically, there have been complaints from the Swedish environmental ministry that “more than 30 American lobsters have been found along Sweden’s west coast in recent years, and they can carry disMeet the American lobster’s European cousin, Homarus gammarus.

Swedish export: performer Ann-Margret.

eases and parasites that could spread to the European lobster and result in extremely high mortality.” But they haven’t. And how many is “more than 30”?

As for the United Kingdom, according to the Guardian “British experts say there have been 24 confirmed reports of the American lobster in UK waters in recent decades. They are not believed to be reproducing, although this is possible. Sightings are believed to be as a result of the deliberate release or escape of specimens from captivity.”

American Invasion How did Maine’s lobsters get there, howevSummerguide 2016 203

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er small their number? It’s a long swim from Damariscotta. The Guardian quotes Sweden’s environmental ministry’s theories: “We have reason to believe that lobsters are put in coastal waters perhaps for later consumption. Some of the American lobsters found by fishermen in the sea outside the west coast of Sweden were still wearing rubber bands round their claws with the exporting company name on the rubber band.”

New England lobster groups take this most seriously. “The Massachusetts Lobstermen’s Association is jittery at any European ban as the export of lobsters to the EU is worth $134m (£93m) annually.” eady Seafood Co., Lobster Trap Seafood, and East Coast Seafood, along with several other wholesalers from Maine, went to Brussels to ensure there is no European Union-wide ban. In all, according to the Press Herald, “75 people met for 90 minutes to talk about how to avoid the all-out ban that Sweden asked the European Union to adopt.”

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“It’s flattering that the country that released Anita Ekberg, Ingrid Bergman, Ann-Margret, Greta Garbo, Lena Olin, Britt Ekland, and Maud Adams into the wild would consider anything from Maine oversexed.”

Huge demand from china “I started working with Maine Coast in January of 2016,” says Annie Tselikis of The Maine Coast Company in York, an international wholesaler of lobsters. So deep are these connections, Tselikis is headed for China in the coming months. The company has been aware of the country’s love for the lobster’s seductive, “auspicious” shade of scarlet, “for as long as we’ve been marketing that resource [in China].”

Asked about the infamous 30 Maine lobsters slithering at the bottom of Sweden’s claim, and whether these doughty examples of Homarus Americanus escaped from holding tanks after shipment from the US, Tselikis says, “No. The way that lobsters are

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I n sid e S t ory

Not for all the Lobsters Maine Lobster Exports to China

in China…

$25,000,000.00

$20,000,000.00

$15,000,000.00

Frozen Lobsters

$10,000,000.00

Live Lobsters

$5,000,000.00

graph info provided by Maine international trade center

$0.00

2006

2007

2008

2009

2010

2011

Now, people worldwide aren’t just eating Maine lobsters. They’re debating them, too. From London to Beijing to Washington, DC, lobsters are a hot topic as an indicator of emerging global trends.

This summer, the Washington Post has taken its readers to Little Cranberry Island to dramatize the monumental demand that the Chinese have for Maine Lobsters. “Little Cranberry, an island of 70 inhabitants, and China, a nation of 1.4 billion people, increasingly find themselves connected by the shifting currents of the world economy,” writes the Post’s Ylan Q. Mui, who came to Vacationland to file this story.

“The rise of China’s middle class has coincided with a boom in Maine’s lobster population, resulting in a voracious new

stored in various parts of this industry, if you are receiving product in Europe, you are not storing that product in the water. You’re storing it in a tank on the mainland.”

European lobsters are Homarus gammarus. They are blue in the water. They’re slightly smaller than Maine lobsters.

“It is all of our opinion that these [30 Maine] lobsters have been liberated [at var-

2012

2013

Year 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015

2014

2015

Live Lobsters – $10,616.00 – $2,983.00 – – – – – – $4,573.00 $3,775.00 $89,560.00 $806,165.00 $7,879,572.00 $14,486,507.00 $12,978,127.00 $11,479,709.00

Frozen Lobsters $14,000.00

ious times] by private citizens who think they’re doing something right. You can see evidence of this on the internet. A couple of weeks ago there was someone from Scotland who posted a YouTube about releasing a lobster back into the wild.” Except it wasn’t the “wild” the Maine lobsters were used to. “The Scottish posting was taken off Youtube” amid a derisive chorus of “You’re

– – – – – – – –

$21,580.00 $661,267.00 $47,402.00 $640,402.00 $8,471,727.00 $8,403,168.00

Total $14,000.00 $10,616.00 – $2,983.00 – – – – – – $4,573.00 $3,775.00 $111,140.00 $1,467,432.00 $7,926,974.00 $15,126,909.00 $21,449,854.00 $19,882,877.00

an idiot.” “Why are you returning it to the ocean,’” and on an on. “The thing is,” Tselikis says, “you’re releasing it in waters that are not native to it.” fter all, how helpful is it to release a lobster into the wild with bands around its claws? Here, enjoy your freedom! Naturally, this speaks to individual, sadly misinformed “rescues” of Maine

A

Summerguide 2016 205

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Ins ide S t o ry

Shanghai, hub for Maine international trade.

market for the crustaceans’ succulent, sweet meat. Exports of lobsters to China, nonexistent a decade ago, totaled $20 million last year. The bright red color of a lobster’s cooked shell is considered auspicious, making it a staple during Chinese festivals and weddings.”

Maybe that’s why Sweden is so red in the face.

So sanguine is Maine about its skyrocketing world lobster demand, “the state has established a full-time development office in Shanghai and led a second trade mission to the city last year.”

This summer, commuting on I-295 is going to be a breeze.

Coming June 16

Information for these graphs was generated for Portland Magazine at press time by the Maine International Trade Center.

gpmetrobus.com

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lobsters. It may be more a matter of sympathy than science. Apparently, Sweden has yet to prove a new malignant horde has successfully bred in European waters. The Maine lobster industry is working hard to make this case and others to the European Commission. Does Jeff Bennett of the Maine International Trade Center subscribe to the Mary Tyler Moore buy-and-release theory?

“Somehow they got out there, and they certainly didn’t get there on their own.

There are numerous stories,” but it all comes down to this: “I think they were released either intentionally or were mishandled, one or the other.”

As we go to press, lips are tight, because there’s a lot of maneuvering behind the curtain. “We’re trying to do a lot of things behind the scenes that we don’t want to disclose to the press yet. There will be more news in July.” If that news goes Sweden’s way, it will be boiling hot. n Update: A group of U.S. government scientists labels Sweden’s proposal to classify Homarus Americanus as an invasive species as “so thin it doesn’t merit a political debate, much less a full-scale European Union import ban,” according to the Portland Press Herald.

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Extraordinary

Maine

In 2011, the East Coast Ghost Tracers were leading an investigation into supernatural activity at Fort Knox when they captured something spooky on camera.“We were picking up our equipment at about 2 a.m., when one of our investigators caught this image,” says ghost tracker Jamie Dube. According to Dube, the photo above shows the famous Ghost Family of Fort Knox.

from top: East cosat ghost tracking; ; Gary Brownell - https://flic.kr/p/ciWvu9

Tales of the strange and supernatural from the mysterious shores of Maine.

B y l o r e n & j e n ny coleman

W

hen you’re in Maine, you expect to feel cold. However, some shivers are not the result of Maine’s well-known chilly weather, but the insidious, icy fingers of paranormal Maine: ghosts, gothic cemeteries, and granite fortresses full of creaky spirits.

Libbey Mausoleum, Riverside Cemetery, Lewiston In Strange Maine, Michelle Souliere recounts a friend’s experience at “Well-guarded Libbey Mausoleum” while walking in Lewiston’s Riverside Cemetery with two companions. Witnessing the kicked-in windows and other forms of vandalism around the Libbey

Mausoleum, and lamenting the abandoned beer cans and malodorous evidence of irresponsible pet owners, these folks felt a chill, a baleful, unseen stare, and an overall feeling of hostility. A woman in the group attempted to “communicate” with the presence she

felt, then lit up a cigarette; seconds later, the “top half of a large birch tree snapped off and landed where they had just been standing.”

Other examples of the “Unseen Guard” include strange cramps, cold spots, and a general feeling of ghostly hatred.

Summerguide 2016 209

in the time and temp­erature building is all dressed up­ with no p­lace to go.

out there

By ABBy PArsons

Fort Knox, Prospect On the west bank of the Penobscot River, 172-year-old Fort Knox is a monument to haunted history. Although the massive granite structure was manned in times of war, it never saw actual battle. Its drafty interiors are perfect for two annual events, October’s Fright at the Fort and the summer’s Paranormal Fair. “Fright at the Fort has been scaring the heck out of people for the past seventeen years. Visitors are led through the dark passageways of the old

ve seen her more than once,”

the exit, she just passes through without the doors moving an inch.”

Who says chivalry’s dead?

After sensing her invisible exit, Jules convinced himself he’d just half awakened from a dream…until he saw her again.

“A friend stopped by on another night to talk some baseball,” Jules says. “Out of the corner of my eye, here comes the lady again. I say, ‘Don’t look, but when this woman passes us tell me if you see her.’

Time and Temperature Building; Dr. Death House; Casco Bay, Portland Maine’s Forest City holds its fair share of spectres too. In the Time and Temperature Building on Congress Street, a red-haired female spirit reportedly rides the elevators and sends visitors to the wrong floors. Workers there report seeing an unknown woman strolling the halls, then disappearing into thin air. In 2007, Portland Magazine interviewed security guard Nick Jules, who’d had more than one run-in with the flamehaired spectre. “The first night I saw her she (Continued on page 82)

Oct07 42-43 82-83 haunt.indd 43

Spirits on the High Seas Roxie Zwicker, author and owner of New England Curiosities Tours, spoke to Portland Magazine in 2006 about the souls that had shipwrecked on Maine’s treacherous coast.

“Look beyond Nubble Light. That matchstick on the horizon is Boon Island,” Zwicker says, “so named because ships used to wreck on the desolate three acres of barren rock so often that sailors would leave ‘boons,’ or packages of supplies, to help the unfortunate captives.”

One such ship was the Nottingham Galley, “wrecked in December of 1710 on its way to Portland from Ireland. York Beach was so close, but a rescue raft was taken over by waves and the men aboard froze. Thirty-five men from the Nottingham scrambled onto the island, which had no vegetation and was hit by gales capable of sending 500-pound boulders crashing into the rock and sea. The men ate seaweed but reacted violently. They got sick, began to die,” Zwicker says.“The first to perish was the cook.

The captain had to make a decision. These were god-fearing men, but they were starving. They resorted to cannibalism, consuming the cook first, then the carpenter.” They were rescued by fishermen 29 days later, but the shipwrecked men were never the same.

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A red-haired spirit is said to ride the elevators of Portland’s Time and Temperature building. She has been spotted floating through the lobby and vanishing through doors.

OctOber 2007 43

was coming across the lobby toward me. As she reached the exit, she just passes through without the doors moving an inch.” On another occasion, Jules attempted to make contact with the woman. “I lurched across the hallway to grab her, but got an armful of air.”

Rachel Crawford, co-owner of the vintage store Little Ghost on the first floor, has also felt the presence. “On Sundays, when the building’s quiet, it’s very creepy. You can hear the elevators moving of their own accord.” She says she had no idea about the spirit when she named the shop.

With the recent announcement for foreclosure, who will inherit the Time and Temperature Building’s flame-haired phantom?

9/6/07 7:18:29 PM

F

urther downtown, the William E. Gould House on State Street is supposedly haunted by the patients of a physician nicknamed Dr. Death, who “used unusual treatments on some patients,” according to Haunted Portland: From Pirates to Ghost Brides, by Roxie Zwicker. She also mentions how residents have heard “phantom footfalls” in the basement, one felt “tapping on her shoulder,” and “a presence has been known to brush past people.” A ghostly figure is often seen in the Gould House’s windows. One rumor is that the building was built on top of an ancient Native American burial ground, accounting for all the spirit activity.

The waters of Casco Bay hold their own

from top: Anna smith; file photo

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says Nick Jules, who works the Fort, where they are surrounded by lights, night shift as a security guard for Portland’s Time Temperature fog, sound, and creatures ofandnightmarBuilding at 477 Congress Street. “She fire-engine red hair and wears a ish dimension,” sayshasLeon Seymour, Execfloor-length camel-hair coat.” utive Director of Friends LoPerhapsat the Ft. ghost Knox. that’s hauntPortland Symphony’s marketing cal volunteers line uping to terrify people offices on the mezzanine floor is of just all returning from a whirlwind perforages, from New England, Canada, and bemance of vaudeville in the old thehere. But wait, the Civic Theater yond. The Fort itselfater was declared the site hasn’t welcomed crowds in to the building’sin Preble Street entrance since of a “residual haunting” 2011

by SyFy’s the 1950s…

Whoever the elevator is, she’s Ghost Hunters team, following a ghost thorough certainly been pressing some buttons. investigation. The team “breath“The first heard night I saw her she was coming across the lobby toward me,” ing” and “footsteps,”continues saw strange Jules, who hasimages patrolled the on building for six years and whose post their thermal camera, andopposite heard dragging is directly the elevator.

“I’m flipping through my log book, checksounds and ghostly exhalations on their auing to see if anyone’s supposed to be in the building, and look up say, dio recordings. It seems Fort Knox is toburst‘Can I help you?’ She ignores me and toward the door. As she reaches ing with paranormalfloats activity.

amanda smith

Mt. Hope Cemetery, Bangor he second oldest garden cemetery in the United States was established in 1834 by the Bangor Horticultural Society, in response to the influx of activity and settlement along the Penobscot River Valley. Its rolling 300 acres are the final “home” of over 30,000 individuals. The film version of Bangor resident Stephen King’s book Pet Sematary features chilling glimpses of the grounds. The cemetery’s official website lists the unmarked grave of gangster Al Brady among the tombstones, and an article in The Examiner from March 2012 states that “something eerie” skulks along the rows between the graves. Al Brady’s ghost? You decide.

secrets. “After lobsters, Sea Serpents might be Mainers’ very favorite thing in the sea,” historian Herb Adams told MPBN in 2014.

Portland’s very own Sea Monster was first spotted in 1780 by Captain George Little of Boston, Massachusetts. The nickname “Cassie” was coined 20 years ago [by the design department of Portland Magazine while laying out a story] by Loren Coleman, owner of the International Cryptozoology Museum and curator of all things supernatural. Coleman spoke with two Scandinavian fishermen, who reported a run-in with an 100 foot-long creature while on a fishing trip in 1958. “We saw an object coming toward us out of a haze; we took it to be a submarine, but as it came near we discovered it was some live thing.” This live thing was claimed by them to be 100 feet long with a striped tail like a mackerel. Rumor would have us believe this denizen of the deep still lurks beneath the surface of Casco Bay. n

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Summerguide 2016 211

Everyday Sommelier

Everything’s Coming Up

Rosés

Are rosés a ‘thing’ now? A sommelier and cellar master offers tips on searching the wine aisles.

By Ralph H ersom

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one are the days when pink wine wasn’t to be taken seriously. Previously, super sweet bottles by brands such as Sutter Home and Beringer, commonly referred to as a “blush wine” or “white zin,” caused much derision in wine circles and tarnished the rosé’s reputation.

Nowadays, America’s thirst for true rosé (usually imported and drier in style) seems unquenchable. Research firm Nielsen shows the volume of imported rosé over $12 per bottle grew by 56.4% last year. Setting the benchmark is Domaines Ott Château de Selle from Provence, which retails at around $40 per bottle. Luckily, the selection of delicious rosés I’m about to describe can all be bought for under $20 per bottle!

Rosé isn’t classified by a specific grape or region; it’s a type of wine, just like red or white.

Most rosé wines are blends of multiple grapes, giving the winemaker lots of versatility in cre-

ating a wonderfully balanced, delicious glass of wine. It’s the perfect drink for a summer barbecue, picnic, or day at the beach.

The cherry color of the Casal Garcia Vinho Verde from Portugal tells us this is a fruity rosé with aromas of fresh strawberry, cherry, and berries. This non-vintage wine is blended from a selection of the local varietals: Vinhão, Azal Tinto, and BorraÇal. It would pair perfectly with BBQ chicken and a salad.

Next up is one of my go-to choices for summer sipping. Blended from a selection of Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, and Rolle grapes, the 2015 Le Charmel Provence is a French rosé with a fresh, crisp, dry style that makes it a masterful match for almost any dish. It’s wonderful as an aperitif or paired with a juicy turkey burger.

My final favorite is an excellent French wine from 2015, the Domaine le Clos des Lumières Côtes du RhÔne. This medium-bodied rosé

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The blend of Cinsault, Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre make this wine a great accompaniment to grilled pork tenderloin. n

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range day-lilies benefit from thinning and replanting elsewhere, away from the proliferation of plants produced over the years. Not unlike the proliferations of languages, replanted in other parts and ports of the world. Across the centuries, transportation between continents has shifted from the waters to the air, but the movements of people remain the constant, and with their migrations, come their languages, practices, and stories. New customs, adopted in the new location, become ritual celebrations for the newly transplanted. All of a sudden, a new/old tradition is born.

For Francophones in North America, adopting the Native American practice of the “epluchette de blĂŠ d’indeâ€? is a reminder of their ancestors migrations to new gardens of the world. Rediscover your roots and routes through the celebration of a corn roast–an “epluchette de blĂŠ d’indeâ€? (literally, peeling an ear of corn) this summer. According to the adopted tradition, anyone who finds a red ear of corn can be crowned king or queen for the day and kiss whomever they choose, “announcingâ€? the love of their choice. Rachel Field’s 1931 Newbery Honor-winning novel Calico Bush, set in 1743 in the Cranberry Isles of Maine, mentions this ritual and the significance of finding a red ear of corn. The story is about a girl, Marguerite Ledoux, who emigrates from France to Maine, and her adventures in the new territory. In the novel, as in life, old/new customs in old/new lands become the means of creating a new and authentic language for newcomers in a foreign garden. You are what you eat and speak. n

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Dining Guide

Barnacle Billy’s, known for luxury lobster, steamed clams, large lusty drinks, barbecued chicken, homemade clam chowder & of course, the lobster roll & lobster stew. Features extensive indoor & sundeck seating where guests can enjoy both the beauty of the harbor & the ocean beyond. Perkins Cove, Ogunquit, 646-5575, barnbilly.com Bayside American Café (formerly Bintliff’s) has been owned and run by Joe & Diane Catoggio since 2003. Their craveable menu includes simple to decadently delicious items like house-made smoked salmon, corned beef hash, crab cakes, sandwiches, salads, Benedicts, and more. Come enjoy the food and drinks, and discover why customers love Bayside American Café.

Breakfast, brunch, and lunch are served daily starting at 7am. 774-0005 . 98 Portland St., Portland, baysideamericancafe.com.

Bueno Loco offers a unique Mexican experience in Falmouth. We use only the freshest ingredients and make the best house-infused margaritas! Open daily for lunch and dinner.

Happy hour 4-6 pm. Live music Thursdays 6-9 pm. Kids’ menu. Dine in or take out. Plenty of free parking! View our full menu at buenoloco. net. 240 U.S. Rt. 1, Falmouth, 619-7057.

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Bruno’s Voted Portland’s Best Italian Restaurant

by Market Surveys of America, Bruno’s offers a delicious variety of classic Italian, American, and seafood dishes–and they make all of their pasta in-house. Great sandwiches, pizza, calzones, soups, chowders, and salads. Enjoy lunch or dinner in the dining room or the Tavern. Casual dining at its best. 33 Allen Ave., 878-9511.

C A T E R I

Beautiful Food For All O

Bull Feeney’s Authentic Irish pub & restaurant, serving delicious from-scratch sandwiches, steaks, seafood & hearty Irish fare, pouring local craft & premium imported brews, as well as Maine’s most • & Irish extensive selection of single malt Scotch whiskeys. Live music five nights. Open 7 days, 11:30am-1am. Kitchen closes at 10pm. 375 Fore St., Old Port, 773-7210, bullfeeneys.com

(207) 832-63

PO Box 628 Waldoboro, lauracabotcatering.

Crooners & Cocktails Dine in style surrounded by the sounds of Frank Sinatra and Dean Martin at Portland’s only supper club throwback. Enjoy a high energy atmosphere with traditional American cuisine, classic cocktails, and great music celebrating a classic era. We are open 6 days a week for dinner Tues.-Sat. 4pm-1am and Sunday brunch 10am-4pm. 90 Exchange St., Portland. 536-0469, croonersandcocktails.com

CATERING

Beautiful Food For All Occasions

(207) 832-6337 PO Box 628 • Waldoboro, ME 04572 lauracabotcatering.com

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DiMillo’s Now’s the time to enjoy everything DiMillo’s has to offer: fabulous dishes prepared by Head Chef, Melissa Bouchard, voted one of Maine’s Chef’s of the Year, plus our lobster and seafood specials, our delicious steaks and Italian dinners and outside dining topside and portside. Open every day at 11AM, Commercial St., Old Port. 772-2216.

Always FREE PARKING while aboard.

C A T E R

El Rodeo, an incredibly authentic Mexican Restaurant and Bar, is locally-owned and familyoperated at their convenient South Portland location. Open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner. Tableside guacamole, sizzling fajitas, delicious margaritas, and live Latin music are to be enjoyed. See Facebook for daily specials. 147 Western Ave., South Portland, 773-8851

Beautiful Food For A

(207) 832-

PO Box 628 • Waldob lauracabotcate Eve’s at the Garden, an oasis of calm and great food in the middle of the Old Port. The perfect spot for meetings, special occasions, and a cocktail. Ingredients from Maine’s waters and

2 1 8 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Restaurant Restaurant Review Review Diane DianeHudson Hudson

farms: jumbo scallops, natural, sustainable pork, beef, fish, and shellfish, and Maine lobster.

Home to the annual Ice Bar, Eve’s garden is perfect for outdoor dining in season. Happy Hour Mon. - Fri.; free valet parking. Lunch 11:30am-2pm, Dinner 5-9:30 pm. 468 Fore St., Portland, 775-9090, evesatthegarden.com Kon Asian Bistro Steakhouse & Sushi Bar is upscale Asian with modern flair. Japanese, Sushi, Thai, Chinese–or try our hibachi tables.

Our private party room accommodates groups from business meetings to birthday parties. Choose fresh, delicious items and enjoy our entertaining chefs preparing your meal in front of you. Family friendly; open Mon.Thurs. 11:30am-10pm, Fri. to 11pm, Sat. 1pm11:00pm, Sun. 11:30am-9:30pm.

874-0000, konasianbistrome.com Maria’s Ristorante is Portland’s original classic Italian Restaurant. Greg and Tony Napolitano are always in house preparing classics like Zuppa de Pesce, Eggplant Parmigian, Grilled Veal Sausages, Veal Chop Milanese, homemade cavatelli pastas, Pistachio Gelato, Limoncello Cake, and Maine’s Best Meatballs.

Prices $11.95 - $22.95. Tue.-Sat. starting at 5pm.

Catering always available. 337 Cumberland Ave. 772-9232, mariasrestaurant.com Pedro’s focuses on simple yet full-flavored Mexican and Latino food. Offering tacos, burritos and an impressive array of margaritas, sangria, beer, and wine. Especiales de la semana (specials of the week) keep the menu varied and fresh and showcase different Latino cultures. Seasonal outdoor dining available. Open daily, 12pm-10pm. 181 Port Rd., Kennebunk, 967-5544, pedrosmaine.com Pier 77 & The Ramp Bar & Grill are owned & managed by Kate & Chef Peter Morency. Pier 77 has a formal dining room with stunning views of Cape Porpoise Harbor & live music each weekend, while the Ramp is more casual, with its own bar menu at hard-to-beat prices. Open year-round. 77 Pier Rd., Kennebunkport, 967-8500, pier77restaurant.com * Rivalries Sports Pub & Grill An upscale sports bar serving creative pub food in a fun and comfortable atmosphere. Known for some of Portland’s best casual food, Rivalries’ menu has something for everyone. And with 30+ HD TVs and every major pro and college sports package, you won’t miss a game! Conveniently located in Portland’s Historic Old Port District.

774-6044, rivalriesmaine.com

from top left: Meaghan Maurice; sarah Morrill (2)

*reservations recommended

Scratch-made Nice People Totally Authentic l Feeney’s Bulportland’s pub 773.7210 375 Fore Street in the old Port Facebook.com/bullFeeneyS @bullFeeneyS

Weighing In Sampling the freshest new arrival in the Old Port.

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alking into Scales on a sunny summer evening is a dazzling experience. Light streams across the expansive dining space (with seating for over 150) and bar area from floor-toceiling paneled windows, framing a classic working pier. These are not glitzy pleasure boats you see from your table–these are working vessels, responsible for delivering the very morsels you are about to eat.

The wharf’s newest arrival is a joint venture between celebrated chef Sam Hayward and his partners, Dana Street and Victor Leon. The trio’s other eateries include the highly lauded Fore Street, Street & Co., and Standard Baking. With these credentials, our expectations are high.

Sipping on an aromatic Tom Cat Martini ($12) and robust Geary’s Hampshire Ale ($4), we dive into a huge cast-iron pot filled to the brim with the freshest mussels ($12). From Bangs Island, these plump little devils bask in a delightful lemon-dill buttermilk broth, topped with lightly toasted croutons–the perfect appetizer.

Craving a fried dish, we choose to bypass the appealing, well-stocked raw bar. The menu boasts a mouth-watering array of fried fruits de mer: oysters, Maine clams, squid, and traditional fish & chips. Hoping not to spoil our appetite, we order the smaller serving of fried oysters ($16/$24). The chipotle dipping sauce,

balanced by a bed of lightly dressed mixed greens, is reason enough to gorge on this dish.

If you’re looking for a piled-up plate of greasy fried fare, then Scales is not the place for you: think quality over quantity.

With great difficulty, as there is much to desire, I select the rotating Market Special ($28).

We are not disappointed; arriving at the table in another cast-iron skillet is some of the freshest cod we’ve ever tasted. The filet, velvety in texture, comes grilled and lightly coated in buttery bread crumbs, accompanied by salty braised kale and a Parker House roll–a dish that is at once nostalgic and innovative.

We pair it with another vintage favorite, baked beans. True to our memories, the delectable legumes are lovingly baked overnight, and accompanied with house-made sausage. At $7, it’s one heck of a bargain. For $3 extra, don’t skip the side of griddled brown bread.

Complete your nostalgic sojourn with Indian Pudding ($8.50) generous enough for sharing, though one of you is likely to want it all! We end the meal watching the last of the fishing boats tie up, painting reflections in the slightly moving water as the skies grow darker.

It’s Gatsby hour now in Portland harbor–time to go home, dear. n Scales, 68 Commercial St, Portland. Mon-Sun., 5.30-10 p.m. www.scalesrestaurant.com 805-0444 S u m m e r g u i d e 2016 219

Sunset Lakes Real Estate specializes in lake-front and lake-connected homes. With over our agents are ready to provide you with all the necessary information regarding your future home on the Island or Lakes Region mainland. Sunset Lakes Real Estate is the leading agency on Frye Island with outstanding sales each year! We invite you to join our lakeside family of friends who get to live everyday in Vacationland!

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A true Maine Charm custom built home. Property is on a flat private 1 acre lot w/208 ft of water front. Pine tongue & groove interior, bright sunroom, privacy, dock, shed, being sold partially furnished, great rental history,in a lovely neighborhood w/ high end homes. A quality 4 bdrm, 2.5 bath home on beautiful Sebago Lake, surrounded by great amenities! *699K*

74 Leisure Lane

Spectacular property located on the west side of Island w/99 ft of sandy frontage & deep water access on Sebago Lake! Fixed deck & dock at the water’s edge w/panoramic lake views. Set back from the road. Living room w/ gas heating stove, dining area, kitchen, main fl bdrm, hot tub room & 2 bdrm’s up. Shed. Gorgeous frontage! *499,900K*

Come see why families from across the country have chosen Frye Island as their summer residence; unique homes and unrivaled character make the island the perfect place for all ages, especially those looking for a quiet hideaway to bring their family.

53 S. Casco Village Road • Casco, Maine 04015 • 207-655-2139 • 207-841-5602 2 2 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

obs e s s i o n s

THE PARTY SHOULD BE THE ONLY SURPRISE THAT THE PARTY SHOULD BE COMES AT RETIREMENT. THE PARTY SHOULDTHAT BE THE ONLY SURPRISE THE ONLY THAT COMES ATSURPRISE RETIREMENT. COMES AT RETIREMENT.

nd Phoebe Isla 0 0 ,0 9 $33 Dream Islands (continued from page 97)

mainland lot, the island is a just few minutes’ row to shore. hoebe Island is…very spiritual,” says owner Jay Bailey, who believes Phoebe summons “a sense of oneness with your environment. Baby eagles fly across the lake and land on the house. You can hear them clunking around on top… and you can watch the eagle’s nest on the island across the way. We’ve decided to sell the island now because our kids aren’t visiting as often, and it’s funny–as our babies are growing up and leaving our nest, I’ve noticed this generation of eagles is leaving the nest, too.” Nature on the island seems to act in harmony with the families who re-

jay Bailey

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David M. Mitchell Lauren A. Schaefer-Bove Vice President, Investments Senior RegisteredP. Sales Associate Dana A. A. Ricker Shannon McGuigan Dana Ricker Shannon P. McGuigan david.mitchell@raymondjames.com lauren.schaeferbove@raymondjames.com Senior ViceVice President, Investments SeniorRegistered Registered Sales Associate Senior President, Investments Senior Sales Associate dana.ricker@raymondjames.com shannon.mcguigan@raymondjames.com dana.ricker@raymondjames.com shannon.mcguigan@raymondjames.com Dana A. Ricker Shannon P. McGuigan Senior Vice President, Investments Senior Registered Sales Associate Christopher Rogers Stephen Guthrie Financial Planning Christopher G.G. Rogers Stephen Guthrie dana.ricker@raymondjames.com shannon.mcguigan@raymondjames.com Senior Vice President, Investments Senior Vice President, Investments Senior Vice President, Investments Senior Vice President, Investments Retirement Planning christopher.rogers@raymondjames.com steve.guthrie@raymondjames.com Christopher G. Rogers Stephen Guthrie christopher.rogers@raymondjames.com steve.guthrie@raymondjames.com Senior Vice President, Investments Senior Vice President, Investments Legacy Planning Claire R. Cooney, CFP® christopher.rogers@raymondjames.com Claire R. Cooney, steve.guthrie@raymondjames.com CFP® Financial Planning Associate Risk Management & Long Term Care Financial Planning Associate claire.cooney@raymondjames.com Claire R. Cooney, CFP® claire.cooney@raymondjames.com Corporate Retirement Plan Services Financial Planning Associate claire.cooney@raymondjames.com

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Two Portland Square, 7th Floor // Portland, ME207.253.5480 04101 Phone: 207.771.1800 // Toll-Free: 866.680.1196 // Fax: Two Portland Square, 7th Floor // Portland, ME 04101 Phone: 207.771.1800 // Toll-Free: 866.680.1196 // Fax: 207.253.5480 www.PortlandHarborGroup.com Phone: 207.771.1800 // Toll-Free: 866.680.1196 // Fax: 207.253.5480 www.PortlandHarborGroup.com “Helping to Simplify a Complex World” www.PortlandHarborGroup.com

“Helping to Simplify a Complex World” ©2016 Raymond James & Associates, Inc., member New York Stock Exchange/SIPC. Raymond James® is a registered trademark of Raymond James “Helping to Simplify a Complex World”

Financial, Inc. Certified Financial Planner Board of Standards, Inc. owns the certification marks CFP®, Certified Financial Planner™ andYork federally the U.S. James® is a registered trademark of Raymond James ©2016 Raymond James & Associates, Inc., member New Stockregistered Exchange/SIPC.inRaymond ©2016 Raymond James & Associates, Inc., member New York Stock Exchange/SIPC. Raymond James® is a registered trademark of Raymond James Financial, Inc. Certified Financial Planner Board of Standards, Inc. owns the certification marks CFP®, Certified Financial Planner™ Financial, Inc. Certified Financial Planner Board of Standards, Inc. owns the certification marks CFP®, Certified Financial Planner™ and theU.S. U.S. andfederally federallyregistered registered ininthe

forgetmenotsfalmouth.com Summerguide 2016 221

Est. c.1930

FOR MEN, WOMEN & CHILDREN

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obs e s s i o n s side here.

Jump into the water and you’ll see even more wildlife. “The island is great for snorkeling—it’s all fragmented glacial rock. We see fish–mainly bass–and I’ve seen eels, loons underwater, and beavers.”

Narrows Island Pleasant Bay, Harrington, 14 acres

D

rive an hour northeast of Bar Harbor–far enough for tourists not to bother you–and take a right at the Circle K in Harrington. Then drive down Marshville Road until it becomes Ripley Neck Road. If you see signs directing you to “West Bay Seed Mussel Conservation,” keep going until you hit water. Then go further.

Switch to a boat and weave your way past Hen and Hog Islands. The next shore you hit will be Narrows, your new island home.

“Untouched…a step back in time,” is how owner Charles Milmine describes it.

“My great-uncle was a bit of a romantic. His great-uncle, Joseph Parsons, bought the island in 1911. Parsons’s father, George, made his money by investing in the street

Everything on Your Maine Bucket List* *except the moose

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Summerguide 2016 223

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I

t’s a little rustic for some people,” says owner Milmine. “The house doesn’t have electricity, so it’s lit by kerosene lamps. The water for the house is collected in a tank and runs in a homemade piping system, meaning there’s no hot water, and a simple outhouse.” The only ‘modern’ extravagances added since the house was built are a refrigerator and stove, both run by gas.

There are two sandy beaches, one on the east end of the island and the other on the north. A fire scorched part of the island when Joseph Parsons owned it all those years ago, turning that section of the island into a clearing Milmine has worked to maintain to this day among the mature trees that make up the rest of the island.

You may have to share your island with another inhabitant, however. “Gimpy the elf was an invention of my great-uncle. I heard stories about him growing up.” Milmine pauses to collect his emotions. “When I was eight and I went up to the island, my greatuncle arranged the very important task of

drop anchor realty

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railways in Savannah, Georgia in the late 1800s. The wealth George accrued allowed his son Joseph to spend his adulthood traveling, managing properties the family owned in Savannah and, here in Maine, Kennebec County. Joseph came across Narrows Island while spending time camping on Ripley Point. He went for a boat ride around the islands surrounding the point, found Narrows, fell in love with it, and purchased it immediately. Later, Parsons brought his wife to the island.” He’d written down where he wanted to build a camp in his logbook, but he wanted to get his wife’s unbiased opinion before commissioning a cabin. “When she unknowingly decided on the same spot” as he had, he knew luck was with them.

Fast-forward to today, and the island remains largely the same as Joseph Parsons found it over a hundred years ago.

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Summerguide 2016 225

Escape, unwind, reconnect...

Obs e s s io ns ‘catching’ Gimpy. He used a doll and helped me set a trap for the elf. And I did it! It’s a tradition that we continued with all my kids.” Those in search of a little seclusion with some elfin enchantment will find Narrow Island to be their nirvana.

Foster Island, Harrington $1.65M

Foster Island Harrington, 300 acres,

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20-minute boat ride across Narraguagus Bay from Milbridge Town Landing leads to a pier in a hidden cove on the southeast side of 300-acre Foster Island. Or, like the island’s former owners, you could arrive in style by sailing your yacht down from Mt. Desert Island. These former owners? The Rockefellers.

“Mr. and Mrs. David Rockefellers purchased Foster Island in the 1960s,” says realtor Mia Thompson. “In 1973, they placed a conservation easement on the property that’s currently held by the State of Maine.

The easement allows you to construct up to five homes here.” Currently, there’s one simple homestead nestled in the heart of the island, with the structures of four or five buildings from the 1900s dotted here and there, begging for exploration.

Fields, trails, and forests of pine and birch cover the interior. Along the shore you’ll have your pick of sandy coves and bold granite coastline. Wander along the meandering island trails to the east side, where seals sun on granite ledges at low tide.

Or take a deep breath, stand on the southernmost shore, and gaze at the stunning views across Narraguagus Bay as osprey soar overhead. n

Phoenix Studio

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Summerguide 2016 227

No time is more important than vacation time.

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The last thing you need on vacation is a long wait at the ER. That’s why Mercy’s new Express Care+ is open 10 am till 10 pm every day, offering quicker care at a lower cost to you!

Our board certified emergency providers and specialized nurses can treat almost any injury or illness, from sore throats and sprains to broken bones and intestinal flu.

207.553.6105 | mercyhospital.org 175 Fore River Parkway, Portland Conveniently located at Mercy’s Fore River campus, right off I-295 with plenty of parking.

Rangeley Health and Wellness & WBLM 102.9 present

live in concert Saturday July 30, 2016

Tickets are available at ticketweb.com or rangeleyhealthandwellness.com For further information call 207-864-4397

General Admission, Premium and VIP seating available. Gates open at 3:30 pm for this outdoor Benefit Concert overlooking Rangeley Lake.

RHW Pavilion 25 Dallas Hill Rd. Rangeley, ME

Hot Blooded Waiting For A Girl Like You I Wanna Know What Love Is Feels Like the First Time Urgent!....Cold As Ice….Head Games

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Summerguide 2016 233

NOW THAT WE HAVE YOUR ATTENTION, KNOW THAT YOU’LL ALWAYS HAVE OURS. Superior service and support…it’s what separates a quality printing company from the rest. When you print with Cummings, a customer service representative will know your job intimately as they guide it through production, while answering your questions and maximizing efficiencies along the way. Rest assured, you will have the attention you deserve, from start-to-finish.

Cummings Printing is a third-generation familyowned company that has specialized in printing high quality, short-run publications for over 100 years. From magazines and journals to catalogs and guidebooks, every printed piece is as important to us as it is to you.

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ANTIQUES FESTIVAL

Saturday 9-5 Sunday 9-4 • Admission $10 Early Bird Friday 12-5pm $25 (includes full weekend pass)

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A HISTORY OF GRACIOUS LIVING

About Us

Our experience in providing care for the elderly stretches back to 1854! Founded by civic leaders originally to house aging women, three to be exact, Seventy-Five State Street began a long tradition of expanding and providing quality health care services and housing for people in the Greater Portland area. Formerly known as the “Home For Aged Women”, Seventy-Five State Street was renamed in the early 1970’s when the entity was moved from Emery Street to its current locale on State Street.

If you are coming to a point in your life where socializing with friends has become less of a priority due to the demands of home maintenance, shopping for groceries and getting to appointments.… you need to know about Seventy-Five State Street!

Our Community

We truly have a community of friendly, engaging and active residents. They will encourage you to make this your home too!

The staff is here to provide you with friendly support as you negotiate your way into community life. Expect excellent attention and customer service.

Location

Located in the heart of Portland’s west end with views of the harbor, we are just steps away from the many amenities that beautiful Portland has to offer. Our in-town location is among the primary reasons that people choose Seventy-Five State Street. The location cannot be beat with easy access to some of Maine’s finest cultural facilities, religious institutions, hospitals, restaurants, shopping and the historic waterfront.

75 State Street, Portland ME 04101 • 207-775-7775 • www.75state.org

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The Golden Age of American Pictorial Maps

An exhibit by Dr. Stephen J. Hornsby at the Osher Map Library and Museum

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$349,000

To schedule a showing, call John Hatcher Keller Williams Realty

• 2 bedrooms, sleeps 5 • 2 Bathrooms • Washer & dryer • Fieldstone gas fireplace • Right on the lake with 2 decks • Private dock included • Granite countertops • All-stainless kitchen

• Also a perfect income rental property for investors.

JOHN HATCHER • WWW.JOHNHATCHER.US • 775-2121 Summerguide 2016 243

reserve online at www.ogunquit.com 207.646.7003 449 Main Street - Ogunquit

207.646.4501 336 Main Street - Ogunquit

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Ogunquit Rental Properties Marathon Real Estate, LLC Weekly Vacation Rentals A playful intermission from the other 358 days.

P. O. Box 781 261 Shore Road Ogunquit, Maine 03907 Office: 207-646-1500

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2016 Calendar of Events SPRING (March - June):

May 28-30: Names Project AIDS Memorial Quilt. 207-646-1195.

June 11: Ogunquit Lifeguard Dash. christianslifeguarddash.com.

SUMMER: (July, August):

July 4: Fireworks! visitogunquit.org.

July 21: 42nd Ann. Ogunquit Rotary Club 2-Cent Sale. 207-646-2939.

August 6: 65th Ann. OAA Art Auction. barngallery.org. 207-646-8400.

August 29: 43rd Ann. Sidewalk Art Show and Sale. visitogunquit.org.

Rain date: 8/30.

AUTUMN (September, October):

September 3: Labor Day Weekend Sidewalk Sale. Rain date: 9/4.

September 5-18: 26th Ann. Capriccio. ogunquitperformingarts.org.

September 10: Capriccio Festival of Kites. 207-646-2261. Rain date: 9/11.

September 10-11: Laudholm Nature Crafts Festival. wellsreserve.org.

September 24: 16th Ann. Lobster Dash. lobsterdash.com.

October 1-31: 3rd Ann. Maine Oktoberfest. www.maineoktoberfest.com.

October 8: Fall Fun Farm Day. 207-361-1385. Rain date: 10/9.

October 21-23: 13th Ann. OgunquitFest. visitogunquit.org.

WINTER (November - February):

December 9-11: 30th Ann. Christmas by the Sea. visitogunquit.org.

Ogunquit Chamber of Commerce

36 Main Street, Ogunquit, ME 03907 (207) 646-2939 • ogunquit.org • visitogunquit.org

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An Ogunquit tradition in Fine Italian Dining for over 38 years • Popular Trattoria-styled • Hand-crafted Italian Food • Lively Bar • Grilled Native Fish • Homemade Pastas • Vegetarian too • Sunset menu

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We take pride in selecting the finest ingredients in Southern Maine.

We stock only the finest imported olive oils and our produce is delivered to our chefs daily, as is our fresh native seafood.

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Traditional, Thin Crust, Brick Oven Pizza The charming seaside boutique offers original fine jewelry in precious and semi-precious gemstones; tourmaline, opals & murano glass, unique handbags, designer throw pillows, men’s jewelry & local artwork. Handcrafted in USA. Just beyond the Perkins Cove draw bridge.

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The only B & B on the Marginal Way by the “Little Lighthouse”

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Commanding views of the Atlantic Close To Everything Eight rooms, all with private baths Air conditioning • Wi-fi Full breakfast • Spacious grounds Flower gardens with fountains

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House of the Month Colin W. Sargent

The

Twains in Maine From Top: Colin Sargent; Mathew Brady; Ali Goodwin

In the summer of 1902, Mark Twain and his wife, Olivia, swapped the Mississippi for the banks of the York River. Today, the Twain House is for sale.

M

“The coldest winter I ever spent was a summer in Maine.”

ark Twain never said that.

But he did have a lot to say about the beauty of York when he spent an idyll in this Shingle-Style palace above the York River, owned by the family of visionary Philadelphia architect Frank Furness.

Acquired in 1890 by Furness’s sister-in-law after the death of her husband (Furness’s brother William Jr.), this riverside retreat was an ideal rental opportunity for Mark and his beloved Olivia Twain.

The swooping veranda was perfectly poised to let the couple eavesdrop on the whispers of the river. Better still, Twain’s pal William Dean Howells, the editor of The Atlantic Monthly, lived just blocks away.

Summerguide 2016 249

2 5 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

heart attack,” says listing agent Ali Goodwin. “Twain moved her bed from the second floor to the first floor so she could hear and feel the cooling of the river and trees.

“Twain moved her bed from the second floor to the first floor so she could hear and feel the cooling of the river and trees.”

I’ve read letters between the Twains and the Howells about this period. The love of his life was just too fragile to move around oth-

erwise. Every day, Twain would compose a sonnet and then paint it right here on the wall beside the fireplace so she could see it.”

Talk about the writing on the wall.

Before dawn “he’d walk around, pinning notes to trees, telling the birds to hush so his

Clockwise from left: Eric reuter(2); ali goodwin - Keller Williams Coastal Realty; the mark twain house

F

rom the instant Twain seized upon these views of the river, he was inspired to write new short stories on the verandah. Now and then, Howells stopped by to have a look.

But the literary lions were missing the real drama just a kiss away. Olivia Twain opened her own heart to the magic of this spot: “We are in the midst of pines. They come up right about us, and the house is so high and the roots of the trees are so far below the veranda that we are right in the branches.”

Having grown up with a type of spinal tuberculous called Pott’s disease, the romantic Olivia had an exquisite sense of how fleeting life could be. Sadly, this very summer, she “fell ill and had a small

House of the Month

A Missive from York to New

York

It will be recalled that not long ago the Omaha Public Library barred Mark Twain’s Huckleberry Finn from its shelves on the grounds tha t its influence upon the youthful mind was pernicious. The Omaha WorldHerald sent him a telegram, which called forth the following characteristic letter: Published September 6, 190 2, The New

wife could rest.” Landscapers kept finding the notes for years afterward.

Olivia would cling to dear life for another two years, with Twain at her side, her struggle for survival more wistful because their daughter had died at age 24 of spinal meningitis nearly a decade earlier. Olivia died in the Villa Reale di Quarto in Italy, where Twain took her after their Maine interlude.

Sprawling mid-rapture through the lovely shade of time, Furness’s design still makes sense today among the cool pine needles.

“Just as Twain was a Victorian with a mod-

York Times

Dear Sir: Your telegram has arrived, but as I have already said all I wan t to say concerning Huck Finn’s new adv entures, there is no need to say it over again.

I am making this remark by mail instead of telegram in order to secure speed; your courtesy require s this promptness of me. Lat ely it has twice taken a telegraphic dispatc h four hours and a quarter to reach me here from Boston, a distance of forty or fifty miles; therefore, if I should answer you by that vehicle I estima te that it would be upward of eight days on the wire, whereas I can get it to you by mail in two.

I am tearfully afraid this noi se is doing much harm. It has started a number of hitherto spotless peo ple to reading Huck Finn, out of a natural human curiosity to learn what this is all about–people who had not heard of him before; people whose morals will go to wreck and ruin now.

The publishers are glad, but it makes me want to borrow a handkerchief and cry. I should be sorry to think it was the publishers the mselves that got up to this entire little flutter to enable them to unload a book that was taking too much room in their cellars, but you never can tell what a publisher will do. I have been one my self.

Mark Twain York Beach, Me., Aug. 23 190 2.

S u mm e r g u id e 2 0 1 6 2 5 1

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House of the Month

from top: Eric Reuter; george barker - Keller Williams Coastal Realty

ern sense of humor, so was Furness (who fought at Gettysburg and won the Congressional Medal of Honor) an early Modernist, with adjectives like “muscular” and “energetic” often applied to his work. Walking through this house, it’s almost as if there are places where it’s gathering itself up for a leap into the future.

Taxes are $24,439 n Buyers’ Notes: With 508 feet of river frontage, this five-bedroom, five-fireplace mansion was completely and sensitively restored roughly eight years ago–a thoughtful blend of the old and the new. Graciously proportioned at 6,000 square feet, the Twains’ former retreat offers four full baths and three half baths, an in-law apartment, and prime location in York at its most exclusive, with a golf club and yacht club steps away.

In the manicured gardens outside, there’s a heated inground swimming pool.

With its deepwater dock on the river, the house offers dappled views of Sewall’s Bridge. This part of the York River reflects a number of antique homes as well as historic Hancock Wharf, once the property of Declaration of Independence signer John Hancock.

And yes, there is access to the ocean from this part of the river.

What Mark Twain Wrote Here Turns out, the Twain in Maine is easy on the brain. The Old York Historical Society keeps two short stories they believe Twain wrote during his Maine interlude. One is called “The Belated Russian Passport.” Here’s a section from “Was It Heaven? Or Hell?”

Twice, at intervals, Aunt Hester said, in frozen amazement:

“You told a lie?”

Twice, at intervals, Aunt Hannah followed with the muttered and amazed ejaculation: “You confess it–you actually confess it– you told a lie!”

It was all they could say. The situation was new, unheard of, incredible; they could not understand it, they did not know how to take hold of it, it approximately paralyzed speech.

Summerguide 2016 253

New England Homes & Living

Islesboro Island­select ProPertIes John Oldham, Broker

P.O. Box 300, Islesboro, ME 04848 · (207) 734-8809 oldhamip@midcoast.com · www.islesboro.com

Smith’s Landing 1925 Two-bedroom shingled seasonal cottage. 460 feet of bold ocean front and gravel beach. Kitchen, dining, living rooms. Great family site with lovely water views and good chance for yearround upgrade. Private neighborhood. Opportunity is knocking! $265,000.

Wonderfully Grand 1890 Five-Bedroom Home.

Great in-town location, walk to everything.

3,500 sq.ft. of living, work, and storage space plus carriage house and two-car garage. .88 acre.

Large sunny back yard. This is a very comfortable home, ready to move in for $185,000.00

Starr Cottage Classic 1790’s Greek & Colonial Revival post-and-beam Cape idylically nestled between glorious sunrise and sunset water views over Dark Harbor and Gilkey Harbor and outer islands. Remodeled in 1899 and restored in 1994. Five bedrooms, 3.5 baths, four fireplaces. The house and boathouse are sited on 2.4 + acres with 183 feet along the shore of Ames Cove with meticulously landscaped grounds. $975,000.

Islesboro Harbor Contemporary Extraordinary setting and waterviews on private 2.7 acre sloping landscaped grounds with mowed path to 400 feet of rugged shoreline and gravel beach. Crisp woodwork, tile flooring, open concept kitchen and dining room with fireplace hearth. Large living room and hearth. Two bedrooms, two full baths. Detached two-car garage, unfinished apartment. Conveniently located. $610,000.

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Dark Harbor Shingle Style Prestigious address, whimsical design, multiple use workshop renovation to residence. Innovative use of antique fixtures. Living room and conservatory, kitchen, shop, master bedroom and bath. Front gallery space and garage. Attached onebedroom apartment. $165,000.

Rambling Spacious Yearround Home and Camp. Innovative layout; fine woodworking, five bedrooms, wide pine, tiled, and carpeted floors. Many built-ins, dine under the skies, solarium, large living room and fireplace. Sunny fenced yard.

Includes 600 sq. ft. camp or studio in the woods. $250,000.

Vintage Turn of the Century Cottage in Cherished Summer Enclave. Panoramic water views. Four bedrooms, period architectural detail, random width wood flooring. Will need work and restoration but worth the effort for this location. 15’ right of way to beautiful beach. Stroll to tennis courts, library, historical society. Short ride to stores, post office, and sailing. $195,000.

Meadow Pond Must See! 1850’s Greek Revival renovated 1992, historic detail preserved. 4.5 acres on pond. Sweeping views, lovingly landscaped meadow.

Kitchen, living room, two bedrooms, two full baths, maple & ash flooring, recessed lighting, skylights, easy to heat, large septic for expansion. Two detached guest studios, green house, wired tool shed. Large sunny garden spots, seasonal stream and varied hard and soft woods. A real gem! $285,000.

New England Homes & Living

THE HATCHER GROUP KELLER WILLIAMS REALTY

JOHN HATCHER

“A HOUSE SOLD NAME”

(207) 775-2121 WWW.JOHNHATCHER.US

Portland West End Townhouse 5 BR, 3 Full BA $815,000

Portland River’s Edge 5 BR, 4 Full BA 1 Half Bath $549,000

Cape Elizabeth Private Estate 5 BR, 3 Full BA, 1 Half Bath $975,000

Alfred Waterfront Estate 2 BR, 3 BA plus 2 separate guest homes $2,250,000 John Hatcher • The Hatcher Group 6 Deering Street, Portland, Maine 04101 207-775-2121• John@JohnHatcher.us • www.JohnHatcher.us

Summerguide 2016 255

Greenlaw Cove Shorefront Cottage Deer Isle MLS #1261423 $599,900

DOWNEAST PROPERTIES At Downeast Properties, we have been specializing in the sale of fine Maine coastal luxury homes, land & islands for over 45 years. Whether thinking of buying or selling, let the professionals at Downeast Properties share their wealth of knowledge and experience with you.

Serving the Blue Hill Peninsula as well as Deer Isle, Stonington, Castine & the Downeast Region of coastal Maine.

“Alpen House” Caterpillar Hill Sedgwick MLS # 1266601 $365,000

DISCOVER MAINE

105 Main Street • Blue Hill 40 Main Street • Stonington (207) 374-2321 www.downeastproperties.com

Oceanville Seaside Private Haven Stonington MLS #1226381 $799,000

Orr’s Cove Ocenfront House Brooksville MLS #1248005 $645,000

New England Homes & Living

Specializing in

Residential • Luxury • Relocation

Maine Home Town Girl

native Mainer I hold a deep appreciation for the Maine life style and I "loveAs asharing my enthusiasm and knowledge with you! I have been dedicated to providing outstanding service and attention to details for over 14 years with experience ranging from moderately priced to million dollar homes... I look forward to being your Realtor, friend, neighbor and confidant.”

Keller Williams Realty 50 Sewall Street, 2nd Floor Portland, Maine 04102 Office: 207-553-2680 Cell: 207-318-3421

FREEPORT

26 Harvest Ridge- Beautifully maintained 3 bedroom Townhouse in very convenient location.

First floor features formal living room & dining room, family room w/gas fireplace, kitchen w/maple cabinets & Corian counters, and half bath. All very open w/hardwood floors. Second floor has master bedroom suite, laundry, two additional bedrooms and bath. Attached two car garage, rear deck, full basement & high efficiency , natural gas boiler. $334,900 - David Gleason

RICHMOND

HARPSWELL 1813 Harpswell Island Road Very cute 3 bedroom Bungalow with lots of stone walls in Great Orr’s Island location. First floor contains a formal living room w/ hardwood floors and a brick fireplace, bedroom and applianced kitchen. Second floor has two bedrooms, office area and bath.

Relax on the covered front porch. $195,000 - David Gleason

346 Front Street - Historic charm best describes this 1840’s classic timber frame w/attached barn, carriage house & 1 horse stable. This 2ac homestead overlooks the Kennebec River. The over-sized sun room boasts a wood burning fireplace and has tin ceilings & masonry tile floors. You will have porch envy while you rock to river breezes on the expansive wrap around porch, not to mention views of the established perennial gardens. $395,000 - Sierra Allen

SIERRA ALLEN DIRECT PHONE: (207) 504-2444 WORK PHONE: (207) 725-8522 EMAIL: Sierra.Allen@NEMoves.com

DAVID GLEASON DIRECT PHONE: (207) 837-3181 WORK PHONE: (207) 725-8522 EMAIL: David.Gleason@NEMoves.com

Summerguide 2016 257

The Knowles Company is proud to be a signature sponsor of Acadia’s Centennial.

Real estate sales and vacation rentals since 1898 For all your real estate needs on Mount Desert Island and the Downeast Maine coast.

Also offering more than 400 vacation rentals near Acadia National Park.

1 Summit Road Northeast Harbor, ME 207-276-3322 info@KnowlesCo.com

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New England Homes & Living

South Freeport The original Fox Hill Farm in South Freeport has been beautifully renovated and expanded to provide the new owners with the very best of an original 1799 antique cape with all the benefit and comforts of a very high quality home. There are 4 bedrooms and 4.5 baths. The elegant kitchen offers a cathedral ceiling, granite finishes and a charming fireplace. The spacious family room is flooded with light and features a fireplace, cathedral ceiling, a marvelous entertaining space. The attached guest/in-law apartment has its own separate entrance. A new 28x40 barn was built in 2012. There is much more to see and it’s all situated on 2.6 acres of land in the prestigious Harbor Ridge neighborhood not far from town and quite near Freeport Harbor. $795,000.

Brunswick

This magnificent home at Botany Place is unique in every way. Its 3,735 square feet of living area on three levels includes, on the first floor, a bright, open concept living area with gas fireplace, kitchen with superior appliances, half bath, laundry, first floor master bedroom suite and access to both a screenedin porch and an open deck. Upstairs are three additional bedrooms, two bathrooms and a “sitting” loft that overlooks the living areas downstairs. In the finished basement are two separate recreation rooms and a cedar-lined walk-in closet. Another plus: the attached two car garage has direct entry to the house. The setting is all one could ask for – a southern exposure for the livings areas, a spacious back yard, perfectly suited for relaxing, or entertaining if one is so inclined. For privacy the lot is bordered on two sides by woods abutting walking trails. $580,000.

Brunswick

Situated on 2.8 acres in the beautiful Crestview Estates neighborhood, is this 2002 gracious colonial. Bright and spacious with high ceilings and maple wood fwloors throughout, the home features 4 bedrooms, 3.5 baths, a guest suite on the first floor, open kitchen/living/dining space, office/study and a large finished room in the daylight basement. This is peaceful, rural living only minutes to downtown Brunswick, Bowdoin College and the Train Station and surrounded by acres of conservation land and within walking distance to the trails at Crystal Spring Farm. $465,000

Brunswick

“Meadow Rose Farms” is a new neighborhood featuring just 13 lots in two phases. Situated on 70 acres of land, 33 of which are in conservation with deeded access for lot owners to use for hiking, skiing and snowshoeing. The property is lightly wooded, with rolling fields, lots of sunshine, stone walls, split rail fencing and meadow roses. Meadow Rose Farms provides the unique combination of a tranquil, rural setting just 2 miles from Bowdoin College and downtown. The six Phase I lots range in size from .68 acres for $79,500 to 3.94 acres for $125,000. Reserve your favorite lot for your dream home now!

240 Maine Street • Brunswick, ME 04011 • (207) 729-1863 For Properties, Open Houses, Visual Tours – www.MaineRE.com

Summerguide 2016 259

New England Homes & Living

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George C. West Mansion

181 Western Promenade, Portland Maine CIRCA: 1911 Designed by Architect Frederick Tompson, for utilities maganate George F. West.

This Georgian Revival includes 17 spacious rooms of elaborate and luxurious living.

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• Boasting Views of Mt. Washington • Unparalleled Quality of Workmanship • Spacious Gourmet Kitchen with Formal Butler Pantry • Formal Library and Gracious Dining-Room • Gym, Sunroom, Portico w/ Balcony and Private Terrace

Ed Gardner | Broker 207.773.1919

Ed@OceanGateRealty.com For more information visit WWW.ED-GARDNER.COM

New England Homes & Living HARBORVI EW PROPERTIES

RESIDENTIAL • COMMERCIAL • INVESTMENT 147 Fore Street • Portland, ME 04101

Oceanfront Properties

Saco • Old Orchard Beach

(207) 878-7802

www.HarborviewProperties.com

The Blue Crab–Ferry Beach Oceanfront home with sweeping ocean views. Classic Maine cottage style with wrapround porch, wood floors on second floor. First floor master with private deck. Open, spacious kitchen/dining area for those beach gatherings. Strong rental history, brings in $4000 weekly in season or great family home by the sea. SACO $785,000

PEAKS ISLAND

Two immaculate homes on a near-acre of pastoral rolling lawn.

The elegant, spacious main house has gorgeous westerly views over the blue and sparkling Casco Bay, the Portland skyline and beyond.

The fully furnished, year round guest house has peeks of the bay ready to rent or be enjoyed by friends and family.

The property is a short 1 minute walk to Centennial Beach and 10 to the ferry and stores. $925,000.

PEAKS ISLAND Scandinavian designed home- light and minimalist. Keep the owners’ cool simplicity or make a few changes to make it your own. This style invites the mixture of old and new for very affordable, fun and practical decorating. House is in mint condition with water views from the large rocking porch, west-facing windows and upper deck. Gorgeous sunsets, great island location- walking distance to the ferry, stores and a two minute walk to the beach. $469,000.

RHONDA BERG Rhonda is a year round Peaks Island resident and top producing agent, put her knowledge and experience to work for you.

207-756-3450 • rberg@harborviewproperties.com

Oceanfront Condos Many to choose from right on the 7 mile beach or within site & sound of the surf in Old Orchard/Pine Point & Ocean Park area. Oceanfront & near beach condos in the $200-500,000 price range and many of the buildings have pools. Good summer rental potential and a great place for seaside living. See them all on my web site nancyzsellsbythesea.com.

Best Maine Beach Properties • 207-934-1600

Nancy Z Moreshead • 207-329-3545 nancyzbythesea@gmail.com

Basement Waterproofing Basement Structural Repairs Basement Sump Pumps Basement Humidity & Mold Control ...and Nasty Crawl Spaces too!

1-866-546-0706 TCHaffordPortland.com

2 6 2 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Dennis Ganem, Pres.

24 Longmeadow Rd. • Scarborough • 885-9993 • www.ganembuilders.com

New England Homes & Living

PLEASANT COVE WATERFRONT | BOOTHBAY

3BR log home with water views on a 1.3 +/- ac lot with 200’ of waterfront, dock & float. Stone fireplace & cathedral beamed ceiling. $539,000

BACK RIVER WATERFRONT | BOOTHBAY

4BR/3.5BA home in a private setting, gazebo, footbridge with trout pond & dock. 2 master suites, screened porch & fireplace. $649,000

LINEKIN BAY WATERFRONT

4BR/3.5BA year round cottage in East Boothbay with picture postcard views. Over 600’ of deep water frontage & private dock. $1,450,000

OCEAN POINT WATERFRONT

4BR/3BA meticulously maintained 3,809 sq ft home overlooking Linekin Bay. Beautiful landscaping & private deep water dock. $1,450,000

BARTERS ISLAND WATERFRONT

5BR/5.5BA post & beam home on 5.02 +/- private ac in Boothbay. Great room with stone fireplace, gourmet kitchen & screened porch. $1,195,000

NEWAGEN COLONY | SOUTHPORT

3BR/3.5BA home on 1.26 +/- ac with access to Colony pool, dock & tennis. Water views, sunroom with fireplace, and master suite. $795,000

32 Oak Street, Boothbay Harbor, ME • 207-633-6711 • www.tindalandcallahan.com

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United Realty

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ROLAND LITTLEFIELD BROKER

307 Belmont Ave. • Belfast, ME 04915 207-338-6000 • UnitedRealtyME.com

Please visit our website for virtual tours on our listings and access to ALL Maine Real Estate!

Belfast

Belfast

The Wakeag Haven Estate. Exquisite, Architecturally Designed by Holland & Foley, prominently situated on some of the most impressive oceanfront in Mid Coast Maine! 3 floors of comfortable living with superior craftsmanship throughout. 200’ on Penobscot Bay! Moor your boat, walk the beach. Enjoy all of Belfast Harbor and the Bay! MLS: 1231435 $749,900

Belfast

Exquisite Contemporary right on the ocean’s edge! You won’t find another like this with 138’ on the ocean and nearly 3,000 sq ft for this offering. Open 1st floor kitchen, dining and living rooms with magnificent vistas from the floor to ceiling glass! Master En-Suite on 1st floor with private entrance to ocean side deck. MLS: 1258084 $699,900

Belfast

Steps to the beach from your front porch! This quality, custom built home features 2800 sq ft; multiple entrances to the water-facing, wraparound deck. Master En-Suite with spectacular bath spa, captivating views & private balcony.

Private development. Enjoy your walks along the beach, lobster bakes & more. Southern exposure; city utilities. MLS: 1240080 $399,900

The McIntire House. Built in 2004, Colonial offers 3 floors of quality finished living space including chef’s kitchen, music room, dining & living room with fireplace. Ocean views from Master En-Suite. Located 3 miles to the ocean and next to the new equestrian center! 13 Acres of mostly fields. Attached 4 car garage with open room on 2nd floor.

MLS: 1208630 $449,500

Belfast

3 Miles to downtown sits this lovely Gambrel home on 4+ Acres with Little River as your neighbor! Well built 2700 sq.ft. with formal dining and living rooms, family room, 4 bdrms 2.5 baths, studio over garage. Rural feel yet near the ocean & all downtown amenities.

Gardens, apple trees, raspberries & more!

MLS: 1231034 $299,900

Belfast

Exquisite home, 3 miles to downtown oceanfront, boasting chef’s kitchen, Great Room adorned with impressive stone hearth & mantel~fireplace, overlooking private 6 Acres.

4000 sq ft. w/1st fl bdrm & bath, 3/2 up.

Media room or studio over garage. Separate woodworking shop for the hobbyist or serious cabinet maker. MLS: 1250972 $428,500

Summerguide 2016 263

New England Homes & Living

Wood for your Home 237 Waldoboro Road, Jefferson, ME 04348 207-549-5657 207-549-5657 • FAX 207-549-5647

Flooring Paneling Trim Treads Counters

Damariscotta Lake in Jefferson Is it time to be near the water? This 3.9 acre lot is waiting for your home or cabin. It is in within feet of the common beach and just a short distance from the common boat launch. Imagine next summer by the water..... $76,000 or a 1.41 acre for $ 37,900

A.E. Sampson Custom wood products since 1984 www.aesampsonandson.com

www.BlackDuckRealty.com email: info@blackduckrealty.com

Son

207-273-4000

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2 6 4 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

New England Homes & Living

Waterfrontfor + Forest = Maine Retreat Looking a Maine Retreat?

LEMON STREAM FOREST in Anson NEW PRICE

Fish the cold, rocky Lemon Stream or its tributary - there is over 1 mile of streams through the property. Follow deer trail along the stream and into the mixedwood forest. Build a camp off of the long frontage on Route 148 and relax. $245,000

Celebrating 17 Years in Business

LITTLE CATHANCE LAKE in Washington County Enjoy the solitude of owning nearly all the shoreline of this 140acre Downeast lake.

Paddle and fish its waters, observe its wildlife and watch the sunset from its sprucelined shore. Two water’s edge camps to restore or replace. $800,000

Fountains Land, Inc. 1-866-348-4010

CERTIFIED PL ANTATION-GROWN WOOD AAA- quality, TEAK garden furniture with a lifetime (no hassle) guarantee. BEST QUALITY – BEST PRICE! Hundreds of benches, tables and chairs in stock, ready for quick delivery. Don’t miss our NEW 4000 sq. foot Warehouse Annex featuring Live Edge Slab tables and counter tops, recycled teak wood furniture, home decor, wood carvings and those crazy Teak Root Benches!

681 Bath Rd. (US Route 1) Wiscasset • 207-882-7225 38 Sea Street, Boothbay Harbor • 207-633-9899 Open April 15 - October 15 Daily, 9am-5pm www.islandteakcompany.blogspot.com

All of our rural land listings are at fountainsland.com

Edgecomb

Wonderful Cape with many possibilities. Setback off the road for plenty of privacy. 2nd floor is unfinished currently studded out for three additional bedrooms and two full baths. $199,900

Assisting people buy and sell properties in the beautiful Western mountains of Maine since 1985 Sugarloaf Condo right on the ski trail!

2 bd 1.5 bath end unit. Furnished and a true ski in-ski out location. Just above the Sugartree Health Club. $248,000

Westport Island

Wonderful opportunity to own 2+/- acres of open field with owned water frontage on the Back River. $205,000

C C P

©

Cromwell Coastal © Properties

P.O. Box 1557 • Located on the south corner of Route 1 & Flood Ave. • Wiscasset, ME 04578 Toll-Free (800) 215-8117 • Phone: 882-9100 • Fax: 882-9111

www.cromwellprop.com

Helping Buyers and Sellers throughout Midcoast Maine!

Sugarloaf Ski and Golf Home. Village On The Green location. 5 bd 3 baths.

Fireplace, hot tub, two living rooms.

Ownership also included tennis courts and winter shuttle service. Dead end road but close to the base lodge. $370,000

Need a get-away? 1000+- feet on Flagstaff Lake in Dead River Township.

Located in the Bigelow Preserve. Appalachian Trail and Maine Huts and Trails all close by. Remarkable wilderness experience. $279,000

259 MAIN STREET, KINGFIELD CSMREALESTATE.COM 207-265-4000 Summerguide 2016 265

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Meticulously restored & modernized into a luxury family compound located on the dunes of renowned 7-mile Popham Beach. The 8BR residence pays homage to the rich history of the former Life-Saving Station. MLS 1264172 Kim Latour 207.687.9663 or Jonathan Leahy 207.798.2428 | $3,495,000

Stylish contemporary home with unobstructed views of the White Mountains. Comfortably elegant 4700+ sf on 45 acres of private field and forest. Solar hot water system/radiant heat.

Beautiful gardens & stonework. 3-car attached garage, 1000sf workshop, whole house generator. MLS 1255343 Tom Kruzshak 207.770.2212 | $1,425,000

This stunning, sophisticated Arts & Crafts home takes advantage of the ocean views & breezes. No detail left undone, this custom turn-key property has it all. Chef ’s kitchen, central air, 1st floor MBR, custom landscape & 2 fireplaces. Spectacular property.

Kate Jackson 207.593.1059 | $1,889,000

Unique bowed roof Cape situated on a private & protected cove with 188' of shore front and dock. 1st fl. master suite, large bonus entertainment room, new windows, charming built-ins, new deck w/ Trek decking & Northwest Redwood railings & copper tops, updated kitchen w/ custom cabinets & Bosch DW. MLS 1238558 Kim Latour 207.687.9663 | $795,000

Work, Play, Live...

Captivating 6BR home on over 35+ pastoral acres w/ sweeping lawns & meadows to the water’s edge. A blend of a traditional 1850’s brick Cape and two extended wings. Magnificent kitchen w/ a screened room that has a lobster pot at the ready. The property has two small islands that convey. MLS 1254649 Kate Jackson 207.593.1059 | $1,750,000

One of the most beautiful lakes in Maine, just 1.5 hours from Portland, minutes from Waterville and Augusta. 3 bedrooms, 2 baths, hardwood floors throughout, wood stove, cathedral ceilings, wrap-around deck, recreation room with built-in bar. Boating, sailing, fishing. MLS 1265617 Tom Kruzshak 207.770.2212 | $499,900

Featured Listings

Representing buyers and sellers in Greater Cumberland County & beyond.

South Portland - Open floor plan, loads of upgrades, 1st-floor master suite. Finished room in basement complete with a sauna. 3-car garage with finished bonus room above.

Situated on corner lot. $699,000

Melissa McKersie m 207.776.8390 o 207.770.2216 MMcKersie@legacySIr.com

Polly Nichols

m 207.831.6062 o 207.770.2216 Pnichols@legacySIr.com

Portland - Rare buildable lot with sweeping views of downtown & Back Cove. Build the home you’ve been dreaming of in the burgeoning East End. Close to 295. R-6 zoning with option for a single or 2-family residence. $470,000

WILTON Exquisite home located on scenic Wilson Lake in

KINGFIELD Country Cape w/ 17+ acres along the

the foothills of Western Maine. 4.5 acres, private dock with shore frontage, bright & spacious interior, 1st floor master suite, and in-law apartment. Beautifully landscaped. Within striking distance to Sugarloaf and golf courses. | $795,000

Carrabassett. Recently remodeled featuring open kitchen w/ high-end appliances, great room, & geo-thermal heat/cooling.

2 car garage, large barn w/ horse stalls, carriage barn, workshop & guest apt. Just minutes to Sugarloaf. | $895,000

EMBDEN Charming 5BR / 4.5BA lakefront lodge

SUGARLOAF Recently expanded & completely remodeled 5+BR/6.5BA Post & Beam home located Trailside.

New kitchen and high-end appliances, radiant floor heat, fieldstone fireplace, large ski room with adjoining locker room, and extra family/game room. | $1,295,000

overlooking Embden Pond. Eat-In kitchen, spacious & sunny great room, cathedral ceilings, wood burning fireplace, 2 car garage. Well landscaped, featuring multiple decks, hot tub, and dock. Enjoy scenic lake & mountain views! | $449,000

P E T E R H AW K E S 2 0 7 . 6 3 2 . 2 3 4 5

WWW.MAINEPROPERTIES.COM

“You’re Home in Maine” Chrysa specializes in relocation, vacation & luxury properties.

She also has the network to market your luxury or historic property internationally–a necessityChrysa in our Baker globalchrysa@kw.com economy.

207.553.2472

Chrysa Sells it All Farmhouse

Townhouse

Office: 207.773.2345 Direct: 207.553.7329 Cell: 207.653.6220

Oceanfront

207.318.3421 www.BridgetteVermette.com “We recently had the good fortune to work with Chrysa Baker of Keller Williams Portland to sell

K

w

r

50 s

s .P

, me 04102

eller ealty ortland RE/MAX

BY THE BAY |house The Common at 88 Middle St.,was Portland, ME | cbaker@homesinmaine.com homesinmaine.com ourilliams in Falmouth.

Chrysa aeawall pleasaure to t work with and did a| fantastic job of marketing

our house and helping us to get the best price for our property. Her knowledge of the market and confidence made us feel very comfortable in listing our house with her. She was aggressive but not overbearing and respected our needs and desires. Her ideas onn staging made all the difference in the overall marketing of our home and property. Due to her excellent marketing strategies, we were able to sell our property in one week. What often is a very stressful process was overall very smooth and stress free thanks to Chrysa’s knowledge and guidence.

We highly recommend her to anyone looking to sell their property.”

–Len & Leslie wallace

Chrysa Baker | chrysa@kw.com | 207.553.2472 www.chrysabaker.com | 207.653.6220

New England Homes & Living

Noyes Real Estate Agency

Serving the Rangeley Region for over 50 years! #431 Charming Beaver Mountain Lake cottage, wide open views to the lake.

Fully furnished, three bedrooms, heated sun room, and a garage with space above. Many recent updates. Close to sledding and skiing, too! $415,000

#964 Amazing 320 acre recreational or development land! Mt Blue Stream with trout, salmon, water falls and deep pools.

3500’ of highway frontage, good roads, broad views, gravel pit and more! More land (100+ac) available. Sled/ATV trail access too! $192,000

#918 Experience Day Mountain Wilderness! Over 1100 acres of unique rock formations, native trout ponds, mountain streams, and views! In Avon, includes mountain tops and potential development around Day Mountain and School House Ponds! $895,000

#433 Amazing 200 acre property nestled in the western mountains. Includes a country cabin and 2000 feet on the Magalloway River, famous for fly fishing. $199,000

#335

#521 Post and Beam lodge with 284 acres, solar power, and set in the middle of panoramic views, including Saddleback Ski area, and the lakes. Off grid but with all the amenities, fireplace, large garage, barn, woodshed, cabin, fields, enclosed garden area, stone walls, shooting range, pond, 3 pieces of heavy equipment. $1,900,000

Perfect family or a vacation home with access to Rangeley Lake. Mountain views, a private golf hole and green, large garage, a great room, sauna, hot tub, and Jacuzzi $269,000

#523

#432 Turn of the century, one of a kind property on the west shores of Chain of Ponds. One of the original Megantic Club cabins, fireplace, solar power, 25+ acres, fully furnished, includes boats. $349,000

Let us be your buyer broker and find your perfect vacation-recreation home.

Super spacious home with garage, mountain views, 5+ acres for privacy. Two first floor bedrooms, and three baths. Large open concept living/kitchen area. Two bonus rooms to be finished! $325,000

2388 Main Street, Rangeley, Maine 04970

207-864-9000 • info@noyesrealty.com • www.noyesrealty.com

“Your Real Estate Source for The Rangeley Region” LOON LAKE

Yr-Rd Log Cottage on No-Motors Loon Lake.

2-BR Plus Sleeping Loft, Open Deck w/Unobstructed Lake Views, All Day Sun. Sold Furnished, Good Rental Potential, Listen to the Loons, Excellent Fishing! $324,900

Caryn Dreyfuss Broker

(207) 233-8275

caryn@citycoverealty.com

SADDLEBACK LAKE

Step Back in Time at “Lakeview”, One of the Seven Original Saddleback Lake Camps Log Cabins! Direct Access to Central Sandy Beach, Main Dock, Shared/Owned 1800’ Frontage, Tennis Courts, Walking Trails all on 32 Acres. $149,500

RANGELEY LAKE

Your Base Camp for Rangeley Adventure! Niboban Sporting Camps Blends the Advantages of Lakefront Cabin Ownership with the Convenience of Condominium Living. Available For Your Immediate Enjoyment–Get One Before They’re Gone! -Contact me for Pricing-

RANGELEY LAKE

RANGELEY LAKE

RANGELEY LAKE

One of THE BEST DEALS on the Lake! Fully Renovated Compound on Greenvale Cove w/4BR Home, 3-BR Guest Cabin, Drive-in Boat House. Views/Sunsets, Great Fishing, Close to All 4-Season Activities. $579,900

Sun Filled 3-BR Log Cottage Brimming w/ North Woods Charm Offers Panoramic Lake Views, Open Lawn to Protected Deep Water Frontage. Quiet Area Abutting Conservation Lands with Wildlife Galore. $399,500

Sun Filled 3-BR Chalet w/Mellowed Pine Interior is Ideally Located for 4-Season Fun – Deeded RL Access w/Private Dock, Snowmobile From Your Door, Minutes to Saddleback, Plus 12x14 Storage Shed for Your Gear. $221,000

2 7 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

2455 Main Street • P.O. Box 1234 • Rangeley, ME 04970

www.realestateinrangeley.com

New England Homes & Living

Private oceanfront compound sited on beautifully landscaped acreage with deep water anchorage and a private pier.

Finely crafted and beautifully maintained 4 bedroom, 3.5 bath Cape with 2 en suite master bedrooms.

Chebeague Island French doors lead to a large deck and screened gazebo with panoramic views of Casco Bay. Amenities include separate office, workshop, double garage, putting green and more. A perfect year-round retreat in a very special community.

$1,600,000.

Offered by Jane Leonard 207-831-9951• jane@homesinmaine.com • The Common at 88 Middle Street Portland, ME 207-773-4222

info@daigleproperties.com

PROPERTY SALE

AVAILABLE

Linekin Bay Resort

Lakefront Motel & Cabins

One-of-a-kind, landmark waterfront resort compound with over 60 guest rooms, suites and cabins. Resort features oceanfront saltwater pool, tennis courts, and other amenities. Property has undergone extensive renovations before the season.

Located on central Maine’s cleanest lake, offering lakefront lodging with 39 guest rooms, efficiencies and cabins. Spacious, four-bedroom owner’s home with lake views, marina, and boat launch included in sale. Upside potential exists for lodging and marina operations. $1,675,000

AVAILABLE thru our affiliate, Muroff Daigle – Newton, MA

AVAILABLE

Lake George, NY Lodging

Nationally-franchised property with over 100 rooms located near Interstates 95 and 395. Large breakfast area and business center, meeting and events facilities, and indoor heated pool and fitness center. $4,895,000

North Central Maine Hotel

Well-maintained property with 50 units, located in the heart of Lake George, includes breakfast area, meeting room for groups, indoor heated pool and Jacuzzi, and outdoor pool. Nearby to beaches, restaurants, and shopping. $2,300,000

PROPERTY SALE

Navigator Motor Inn

AVAILABLE

Oceanfront Seafood Restaurant

This former 81-room hotel is currently undergoing extensive renovations with a new façade and other major improvements and is expected to reopen in the Fall of 2016.

Located on scenic US Route 1, this 120-seat restaurant is well established and offers additional outdoor seating. Popular microbrew pub recently added. Adjacent to large, sandy beach.

Please call us for other confidential, off-market listings.

178 Middle Street, Portland, Maine 04101  daigleproperties.com  207-773-4222 Maine’s premier lodging and hospitality brokerage firm

Summerguide 2016 271

PEMAQUID TRAIL Lovely waterfront home and guest cottage on Pemaquid Trail offering westerly views of John's Bay and Christmas Cove. Originally built in the 60's with a gracious style and many innovations this home has recently been upgraded with new windows, sheetrock, paint, wood floors, custom kitchen, 1/2 bath, and renovated full bath. The main house is completed by 2 bedrooms, 2.5 baths, den and living room with a grand stone fireplace whose chimney is encircled by a "good morning" staircase. The 2 bedroom, 1 bath, guest cottage remains charmingly rustic. The waterfront includes an inviting cove of sand where one can while away the day swimming, searching for treasures or napping on the nearby ledges.

This is quintessential Maine at her finest and truly the most desirable location on Pemaquid Trail!

Exclusively offered at $895,000

2568 Bristol Rd. New Harbor, ME 04554 | Office email: info@ldchase.com Office: 207-677-2978 | Fax: 207-677-2237

New England Homes & Living

36 ST. LAWRENCE STREET, PORTLAND $925,000

This 3BR, 2.5BA home with it’s double lot is perfectly lovely as is, but with R6 zoning you now have the ability build up to 3 units on that double lot and still live in a perfectly lovely home. Build a dream home, build a 3 unit or build 3-to 6 condos with a roof top deck!!

The views at 35 and 45 feet are phenomenal!

PORTSIDE REAL ESTATE GROUP

CINDY OLSEN

190 US Route One, Falmouth I 330 Forest Avenue, Portland

c: 207.650.1627 o: 207.619.7571 cindyeolsen@gmail.com

www.portsiderealestategroup.com

Stonington 86 Main Street In-town, waterview home on a welllandscaped lot with barn/studio/gallery. $385,000

Isle Au Haut 1 Main Road Three bedroom, yearround house with a shorefront lot and dock on Isle au Haut Thoroughfare. $625,000

Stonington 2 Liberty Pole Point Road Classic oceanfront colonial with private pebble beach, deepwater access, and views across Southeast Harbor. $495,000

Stonington

Serving the Blue Hill Peninsula.

Friendly. Informative. Local. www.TheIslandAgency.net • 207-367-2550 P.O. Box 543, 26 Main Street, Stonington, ME 04681

2 7 4 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

24 Minister Field Road Beautifully crafted, shorefront post & beam overlooking Deer Isle Thorofare and Allen Cove. $780,000

“Unforgettable”

21mm

“A novel that captures 1920s Boston through the eye of a young Italian castrato seeking love.”

Boston Castrato

The

Colin W. Sargent

R

affi left more than Rom e behind. Snipped by a bishop as a boy, he is bundled off to America when the Church takes shame Forbidden to use his . voice, he explores oth er gifts that steal him into the society of Boston’s gangsters, necromancers, and crew surrounding the the wild poet Amy Lowell as he searches for a gen love song. What E. uine L. Doctorow’s Ra gtim e did for New York, The Boston Castrato does for 1920s Bosto n.

In exuberant and yet precise prose, Colin Sargent conjures a sweeping tale of lov e, murder, and rev enge.

- Ch ris tin a Bak er kli ne , #1 Ne w Yor k Tim es Bes tse lli ng au th or of or ph aN Tra iN.

Wicked shards of humor and sophis ticated, astonishing word play reminiscen t of James Joyce’s Ulysses make up the heart of this incand escent novel by Co lin Sargent. A rare book, one that wil l settle into the sou l for a lifetime.

- Mo rg an Cal lan ro ge rs, au th or , red rub Y he arT iN a Col d blu e sea

From Barbican Press of London and Hull U.S. Launch October 2016 Available For Pre-Order From Amazon.co.uk £9.99 / $17.95

www.BarbicanPress.com

Cover design : www.rawshock.co .uk

Colin W. sargent (www.colinwsargent.c om)

ISBN 978-1-9099

54-20-5

9 781909 95 4205

fiction By Dan Domench

Perhaps You Can’t Help Yourself H

e was ten yards behind her when she heard him. In the cutaway on the back of her bathing suit he saw a braid of muscle tighten. He stopped and she turned to him, eyebrows arching as if only curious, her right hand moving in the L.L. Bean canvas bag hooked on her shoulder.

He gently lifted the tails of his shirt up The with his left hand to show her there was no weapon at his waist. He kept his right hand loose and away from his body.

“I’d like to ask you,” he said, “to leave my girl out of this.”

The woman stepped to where she could watch him and also look far down the shining sand at the edge of the waves for the girl she’d been following. Gone. He watched her work out the problem. She committed to a decision and walked away from him toward where she had last seen the girl. He followed, just out of her reach.

“There’s an athletic confidence in your gait,” he said. “You’ll have to dampen that if you hope to improve at surveillance. You must have heard it before, from a trainer maybe, but perhaps you can’t help yourself.

If it makes you feel any better, your partner at the hotel is worse. He wants people to notice his authority which, of course, becomes no authority at all. He likes his gun quite a bit, likes to touch it. He needs to be chained 21mm

Colin W. Sargent

Carrie McLaren

Boston Castrato

to a desk, don’t you think?”

“I don’t know what you’re on about,” she said, her voice TV American with a British rhythm.

He moved to her left, closer, keeping her body between him and the gun in her bag.

“Let her go home,” he said. “You give me that and I’ll give you something.”

“You want to bargain,” she said, “you should make a call.”

“This is the call,” he said. “Don’t be mad at me. You knew there was a chance I’d circle back on you. You took a risk and so did I. It was wrong to ask her to meet me here, but I needed to see her. Now I’ll do what it takes to keep her out of this.”

“She’s important to you,” she said. “I need to know who she is.”

“She has nothing to do with us,” he said.

“Us?” she said. “We’re old friends?”

“The problem with you guys,” he said, “is you have too much money. Old days, you wouldn’t track me here. You’d wait until I arrived in Boston, let me have my vacation.

There’s no thought to this at all.”

She scanned the ground ahead. “You’re a branch on the tree,” she said. “I follow branches to the trunk, cut the tree down, stand on the stump.”

“What’s that?” he said. “A song? You’re smarter than this. You need to stop march-

ing long enough to hear what I’m saying.”

“This is you?” she said. “The guy they warned me about?”

“Funny thing,” he said, “I was warned, too, but I didn’t believe it. They said you guys would be all over me. Said all you cared about was doing O’Brien because maybe he passed some money around and someone is talking and now you look bad because your boss said Boston was clean. I will tell you that O’Brien’s taking responsibility and wants help, wants this to work out. I can help him and we can help each other.”

She followed the girl’s footprints up a dune.

“You might get her,” he said, “maybe find out where she lives or go after her at work.

But she won’t be easy. She knows what to look for, who to contact. And there’s nothing there so it’ll look weak and you don’t want that. I’m asking you to make a decision here. Call it professional courtesy. She walks away.”

“You do your job,” she said, “I do mine.

Nothing personal.”

“I made a mistake meeting her here,” he said. “I wonder if you’re making a mistake right now. You’re from a military family, is that it? Proving yourself? I know you had to be twice as good as the men to get this far.

But all of us have blind spots. No exceptions.

S u m m e r g u i d e 2016 277

Fiction

How about that book you wanted to publish? maine

8

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Editing

•

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•

Printing

•

Marketing

•

Distribution

• M A I N E S E N I O R S M AGA Z I N E

558 Main Street, Rockland, Maine

•

207.594.0091

www.maineauthorspublishing.com

And blind spots tend to be personal.”

“This what you do?” she said. “This psyop shit works on people?”

“I’m being practical,” he said. “Give me a couple days and O’Brien will meet with your guy in Boston. No violence. What I’ve done in the past, special circumstances like this, what I’ve done is I’ve let someone come in the room with me. How would that sound to your boss? You in the room with O’Brien.”

She did not slow, said, “I’m supposed to believe that?”

“You’re the only one who saw my girl,” he said. “Maybe you took pictures or have her voice. I’m asking you to stop and we’ll talk to O’Brien together.”

“I don’t care what you offer,” she said. “I saw you romancing her, that crap, what is she, twenty-two?”

“What did you see?” he said. “Me kissing her hand? Hugging her? Is that what you saw?”

“You’re a talker,” she said. “I know what I saw and I know what you do.”

“You want to protect her,” he said, “that’s

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“You’re taking advantage,” she said.

“She’s a kid.”

“She’s twenty-four, my girl,” he said.

“My girl,” she said, mocking him.

“Was it you?” he said. “A sister? Your mother? A daughter? You’re carrying something extremely painful...stop.”

He stepped in front of her, forcing her to stumble, react. Her left arm punched and her fist slammed into his chest. He fell to his knees and she kicked him aside. Kept walking.

‘There are people,” he called out after her, “that you die for.”

He heard a long rolling wave break on the sand and hiss as it pulled back. Then he heard the woman moving toward him. He looked up and she was looking down at him, her eyes reflecting the ocean, her bare feet inches from his face.

“She’s your daughter,” she said. “You wouldn’t say it, let me think things, made me hit you. What am I dealing with here?”

“With me,” he said and stood up, brushing sand off his shirt. n

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