Portland Monthly Magazine July/August 2021 by portlandmonthlymagazine

L I G H T H O U S E M A R AT H O N • C O V E R I N G T H E W AT E R F R O N T • F I S H TA L E S

MAINE’S CITY MAGA Z I NE

Cocktail Coves Romance Tops the Menu

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Twice a day all the water in the Atlantic heads toward The Tidewater. Why? Come see for yourself.

Fine waterfront lodging and meeting facilities on Carver’s Harbor

“Maine doesn’t get much more authentic than Vinalhaven and The Tidewater has the best view in town.” – Downeast Magazine

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Celebrate 200 Years of Maine.

State of Maine

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C I T Y

M A G A Z I N E

FROM LEFT: STAFF PHOTO; TASO PAPADAKIS; COURTESY BOOTHBAY HARBOR OCEANSIDE GOLF RESORT; NICOLE BARNA

94 16 From the Editor “Layers” When we deep dive, what do we see? By Colin W. Sargent

18 Letters

MAINE LIFE 21 Chowder

A tasty blend of the Fabulous, the Eyebrow-Raising, and the Just Plain Wrong.

23 Maine Lighthouse Odyssey

Favorites from pharophiles who’ve seen them all. By Gwen Thompson

33 Don’t Go There, Don’t Do That

Things we are never, ever, ever allowed to do in Vacationland. From Staff & Wire Reports

39 Lady with a Past

The “Floating White House” drops anchor in Maine for a makeover: a progress report. By Colin W. Sargent

ARTS & STYLE 67 Festivals!

Maine’s fabulous fairs are back. By Sofia Voltin

75 Without You, There Is No Show

Saxophone sensation Grace Kelly

75 sparkles at Jonathan’s in Ogunquit. Interview by Colin W. Sargent

79 Now Playing

51 if by sea, please! What a difference a sail makes. From Staff & Wire Reports

Your complete arts and entertainment guide. By Sofia Voltin

HOMES & DESIGN 94 Talking Walls

“Mediterranean Maine” Scenes from Tuscany to Seville on Penobscot Bay. By Colin W. Sargent

104 Maine Real Estate

FOOD & DRINK 51 Swept Away

One for the road, but two

61 Dark of the Moon Disambiguating sardines and herring. By Diane Hudson

58 Dining Guide

LAST WORDS 112 Embracing Solitude By Chris Sumberg

Cover: A clean, well-lighted place— The Deck at Dockside on the York River.

47 On the Water

JUL./AUGUST

M A I N E ’ S

92 Visit Bath

L AY E R S

Test-Driving the Native Land App

hen I went to Ledgemere Country Day School in Cape Elizabeth, I was taught “Indian Children” by Annette Wynne. “Where we walk to school each day, Indian children used to play.” Now there’s some othering. With territorial appropriation right on its heels: “All about our native land, Where the shops and houses stand.” A new app endorsed by First Light lets viewers understand exactly who flourished where before the present inhabitants. Let’s visit, say, Rangeley Lake. When you enter the address in native-land.ca, you’re zoomed right to the spot to see “Wabanaki (Dawnland Confederacy),” “Abenaki/Abénaquis,” “Arosaguntacook.” Let’s head to L. L. Bean at 95 Main Street in Freeport. The point of view begins in the stratosphere and then zooms in so close you can almost see the trout swimming in the pond inside the store. “Wabanaki (Dawnland Confederacy)” again. Contact “Abenaki/Abé-

16 P O R T L A N D MAGAZINE

naquis,” “Arosaguntacook.” Fancy a winter setting? Ski over to Sugarloaf Mountain Resort. Within “Wabanaki (Dawnland Confederacy),” it’s “Nanrantsouak,” “Abenaki/Abénaquis.” Of course, members of the Wabanaki (Dawnland Confederacy) were playing on Ledgemere’s grounds long before I was forcibly removed from the roof in 1959 after climbing out the attic window for a look around while Mrs. York’s back was turned. This is the same pre-school where the approved punishment for boys’ transgressions like my roof caper was making me sit at “the Pink Table.” Talk about early education! Layers. If only it were as easy to get off a high horse as it is to get on one. Only time will tell what word crimes are being committed now. To see the original “Indian Children” poem reconsidered, visit bit.ly/_IndianChildren_. FYI, in Canada it was even set to music! n

RHONDA FARNHAM

EDITORIAL Colin W. Sargent, Editor & Publisher

EXTRAORDINARY PERSPECTIVE

75 Bishop St., Portland, Maine 04103 Phone: (207) 775-0101 www.portlandmagazine.com www.portlandmonthly.com Colin W. Sargent Founding Editor & Publisher editor@portlandmonthly.com

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ART & PRODUCTION Nancy Sargent Art Director Jesse Stenbak Associate Publisher staff@portlandmonthly.com Meaghan Maurice Bailey Design Director meaghan@portlandmonthly.com Mercedes Villeneuve Design ADVERTISING Nicole Barna Advertising Director nicole@portlandmonthly.com Per Lofving Advertising Executive per@portlandmonthly.com EDITORIAL Gwen Thompson Associate Editor gwen@portlandmonthly.com Sofia Voltin Contributing Editor sofia@portlandmonthly.com Colin S. Sargent Special Features & Archives Events Portal: portlandmonthly.com/portmag/submit-an-event/ ACCOUNTING Jennifer Lord Controller jennifer@portlandmonthly.com INTERNS Emma Saletta, Patricia Howe SUBSCRIPTIONS To subscribe please send your address and a check for $35* (1 yr.), $58* (2 yrs.), or $68* (3 yrs.) to Portland Magazine, 75 Bishop St., Portland, ME 04103 *Add 5.5% if mailed to a Maine address. or subscribe online at www.portlandmagazine.com

Readers & Advertisers

The opinions given in this magazine are those of Portland Magazine writers. No establishment is ever covered in this magazine because it has advertised, and no payment ever influences our stories and reviews. Portland Magazine, a.k.a. Portland Monthly Magazine, is published by Sargent Publishing, Inc. Note: All correspondence should be addressed to 75 Bishop St., Portland, ME 04103. Advertising Office: 75 Bishop St., Portland, ME 04103. (207) 775-0101. Repeat Internet rights are understood to be purchased with all stories and artwork. For questions regarding advertising invoicing and payments, call Jennifer Lord. Newsstand Cover Date: July/August 2021, published in July 2021, Vol. 36, No. 5, copyright 2021. Portland Magazine is mailed at third-class mail rates in Portland, ME 04103 (ISSN: 1073-1857). Opinions expressed in articles are those of authors and do not represent editorial positions of Portland Magazine. Letters to the editor are welcome and will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication and copyright purposes and as subject to Portland Magazine’s unrestricted right to edit and comment editorially. Responsible only for that portion of any advertisement which is printed incorrectly. Advertisers are responsible for copyrights of materials they submit. Nothing in this issue may be reprinted in whole or in part without written permission from the publishers. Submissions welcome, but we take no responsibility for unsolicited materials. All photography has been enhanced for your enjoyment.

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J U LY / A U G U S T 2 0 2 1 1 7

LETTERS editor@portlandmonthly.com

Monhegan Towel Warmer...

www.islandinnmonhegan.com - 207.596.0371

WHAT YOU MAY NOT KNOW ABOUT ME [Our May 2021 Editorial asked readers to “Tell us something we don’t know about you.”] I have enjoyed reading Portland Magazine for all of its 35 years, many of them when I owned WBLM starting out in the trailer near Litchfield and later from 1 City Center, Portland. What you might not know is that I came to Maine as a 19-yearold disc jockey on the old WJAB 1440 AM, then WLOB AM 1310, and over the years I have lived in Maine eight times, always coming back, mostly from California. Thanks to you for all your great writing about people and the history of Maine. Colin and his staff have done and continue to do an outstanding job. Bob Fuller, Portland MORE ABOUT ME I was the Connecticut state bread-baking champion in the 4-H at age sixteen. There you go! Nancy Marshall, Augusta SLICE OF HISTORY Thank you for giving the Maine Diner a mention [“Maine, Delivered,” Summerguide 2021]. Unfortunately there was an error. The Maine Diner was first established in the early 1930s by Socrates Louie Toton. It was purchased in 1983 by the Henry Brothers, and then purchased from the remaining living Henry brother in 2018 by Jim MacNeill. Karen MacNeill, Maine Diner, Wells

18 P O R T L A N D MAGAZINE

Where Has Where Recycling Recycling Has Always In Style Style Always Been Been In

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Forget Me Nots Where Recycling Has Always Been In Style

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240 U.S. Route One 240 U.S. Route One Falmouth, MaineFalmouth, Maine 207-781-8252 207-781-8252

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See it aboard the Katahdin. Katahdin Cruises on Moosehead Lake. Sailing late June through mid-October Tel: (207) 695-2716 Fax: (207) 695-2367 PO Box 1151 Greenville, ME 04441

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J U LY / A U G U S T 2 0 2 1 1 9

FREEPORT

No vacation in Maine is complete without a day trip to Freeport! Get your photo taken next to the big boot at L.L.Bean and enjoy Maine’s one and only shopping experience. Enjoy a lobster lunch or some favorite outdoor camp recipes of “L.L.” across the street at his granddaughter’s Maine Kitchen & Topside Tavern. Outdoor patio, upper deck, or inside— a great place to refresh! Go back in time at Freeport Antiques & Heirlooms Showcase, next to the historic L.L.Bean home. Over 40 Maine dealers display their exciting finds! All price ranges attract gift buying for special occasions and home/camp decoration. Outstanding heirloom jewelry, furnishings, clocks, nautical treasures, and rare books. New this year: vintage basement collectibles! In a corner on the first floor is Linda Bean’s Maine Wyeth Gallery where by special family arrangement, you can purchase a rare signed Jamie Wyeth or Andrew Wyeth artwork, or a one-of-a kind N.C.Wyeth print. Upstairs, see the shop drawings for L.L.Bean’s iconic canvas and leather specialties created by Warren Bean, son of L.L.Bean, between years 1925-1950, including the famous Maine Boat & Tote Bag.

This will be a day like no other, and one you and your visiting guests will long remember!

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Ship of Dreams

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: NATIONAL LIBERTY MEMORIAL (2); COURTESY DOVE TAIL BATS;WALDORF ASORIA; OCEANA - JUAN CUETOS; FILE PHOTOS

“The Titanic engine room scene was filmed here,” says shipkeeper Philip O’Mara. Reopened to visitors at Pier 45 in San Francisco, the South Portland-built SS Jeremiah O’Brien, whose last operational voyage was on D-Day, is one of only two remaining Liberty Ships that now “sit in salt water like ice cubes melting in a glass,” says executive director Matt Lasher.

Pretty in Pink

Metal Forest

Why would Dove Tail Bats in Monson, surrounded by 3.5 million acres of forest in the Pine Tree State, manufacture metal baseball bats? For developing players, “Metal bats are a precursor to a wooden bat,” owner Phil Lancisi says. “We still produce 30-40,000 wooden baseball bats a year.” Integrated ProXR knobs improve the grip and swing for those who “thwack” or “ping.” Really.

What do the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, the Lincoln Memorial, the Pentagon, the Library of Congress, the Smithsonian, Tiffany’s, and the Waldorf Astoria have in common? They all contain a little piece of Maine. Or not so little: Millennium Granite owner Richard Bois says they’re sending over 15,000 tons of pink granite from their quarry in Wells (east of the Sanford line) to Washington, D.C. for the Smithsonian’s Hirshhorn Museum and Sculpture Garden renovations.

You can’t hide your lying vinyl. Here’s a Sanford palimpsest. Decades ago, this landmark building on Main Street had its facade covered with siding. Now a gust of wind in 2021 reveals what lies beneath. Compare this postcard mailed on August 15, 1909, with the original beauty still peeking through.

Who Needs Zombies? According to Natureworldnews. com, the Lion’s Mane jellyfish that have been washing up on Maine’s beaches more often have been getting bigger, with tentacles up to 100 feet long that can sting you long before you see them—and even after they’re dead.

J U LY / A U G U S T 2 0 2 1 2 1

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Maine Lighthouse

O B S ESSION S

Odyssey Why would anyone want to visit all 65 Maine lighthouses? To lighthouse lovers who’ve seen them all, a better question is, why not?

TAMMY CLOUGH

B Y GWEN THOMPSON

magic carpet. y Clough w/ their Mike and Tamm

hat’s not to love? The beauty, mystery, folklore, legends, romance, and sounds of the crashing waves—it’s hard to resist,” says Carol Blake of Norway, Maine. “My grandmother had a camp on the Kennebec River near Perkins Island Light. Many family members were, and are, lobstermen and women, so I had the love of the ocean in my blood. But it wasn’t until my aunt asked my husband and me to catsit at her home near Rockland durJ U LY / A U G U S T 2 0 2 1 2 3

OB SES S IONS

Egg Rock

Having a “ favorite lighthouse

countless hours in the car traveling to see them by land, and fourteen boat tours to see all of them. —Tammy Clough

”

is like having a favorite child. —Carol Blake

ing the Midcoast Maine Lighthouse Challenge weekend that my love for lighthouses really took off. We were able to climb seven lighthouse towers, and tour guides gave us the history of the lights as well. We thought it would be fun, exciting, and challenging to see them all, and I was interested in photography, so it was a perfect match. It took my husband and me three years to see all

Two Lights, CE

”

sixty-five lighthouses in Maine.” Locals have the luxury of visiting at their leisure. “There are many lighthouses you can drive to, like Portland Head Light and Pemaquid Point Light, with plenty of parking,” Blake says. “Some lighthouses you can see from land but are not allowed on the property. And there are a few, like Matinicus Rock and Mount Desert Rock, that take planning, a big boat, and the perfect weather to get to.” NO HOBBY FOR THE FAINT OF HEART ut coming from away to see them all in one trip calls for some serious logistics crunching. “We planned for months,” says Tammy Clough of Hanover, Michigan. “I made spreadsheets out of yellow legal pads full of all my

Heron Neck, Vinalhaven research notes. We spent fourteen days seeing all sixty-five lighthouses. It took us a six-hour plane ride, countless hours in the car traveling to see them by land, and fourteen boat tours to see all of them. Some days we did two or three boat tours. All the onshore lights were relatively easy to get to. The hardest were of course the ones that we couldn't find boat tours for, so we relied on the plane trip to see them. LOVE FOR LIGHTHOUSES CONQUERS ALL “I don’t swim, so I’ve been afraid of boats and water since I was a child. I don’t like

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: SHIRLEY WHITENACK; CHRIS LAWRENCE; DOWNEASTACADIA.COM; LAURA MARTZ BUNDY; WANGKUN JIA

It took us a “ six-hour plane ride,

Ram Island Ledge

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ust don’t ask a pharophile which lighthouse is their favorite. “That is a really hard question to answer. We enjoyed the rugged Maine scenery around all of them,” Clough says. “Pemaquid and Nubble (aka Cape Neddick) were favorites. Boon Island was a fun adventure to get to, so we like that lonely light. Also probably a good place for a murder.” Blake, however, would set a murder mystery on Monhegan Island. “It’s like stepping back in time. There’s the lighthouse and museum, as well as many hiking trails, a school, hotel, brewery, boats, dangerous currents, and even a rusty shipwrecked vessel on the island. On the far side of the island you can often find artists and poets by the cliffs, painting and writing.” Or possibly getting pushed off the edge. “Having a favorite lighthouse is like having a favorite child,” Blake says. “I love the cliffs of Portland Head Light and Pemaquid Point Light, and the solitude of the lighthouses of the Kennebec River.

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planes or flying either. We used Penobscot Island Air for the plane trip. We gave them a list of what we needed to see, and they plotted the course and we were in the air the next day. They were unsure if they’d be able to get us twenty-three miles out to sea to Machias Seal Island due to the fog, but when we approached the place in the sky where the pilot needed to make the decision, it was clear and he said we could go.”

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West Quoddy

J U LY / A U G U S T 2 0 2 1 2 5

OB SES S IONS dition of the towers and keeper’s houses?” Not to mention the five other lighthouses you can glimpse from Portland Head Light: Halfway Rock Lighthouse, Portland Breakwater Lighthouse, Spring Point Ledge Lighthouse, the two towers at Two Lights in Cape Elizabeth, and Ram Island

Sentimental favorites are Squirrel Point Light and Perkins Island Light, the majestic light of Seguin Island, and the candy stripe of West Quoddy Head. Marshall Point Light is the most romantic to me. There's just something about that place that’s so peaceful and inviting. My husband and I brought our camp chairs and sat there all day. We watched the wildlife and the lobstermen tending their traps. Looking out into the ocean you can see Monhegan Island.” BEST IN SHOW ot surprisingly, lighthouses that are perfect picnic spots (Pemaquid Point has lots of tables and a large lawn with room to spread out blankets) or super selfie spots (Portland Head Light has an abundance of safely fenced vantage points along the Cliff Walk) are perennially popular. “I was at Portland Head Light the other day 26 P O R T L A N D MAGAZINE

“

I feel there are 65 official standing lighthouses. There are places like Saint Croix Island where only the boathouse remains. There’s a buoy above Crabtree Ledge to show where the lighthouse used to be. Avery Rock only has a thirteen-foot skeletal tower now. Of Abagadasset Point Range Lights, only a collapsed oil house remains. —Carol Blake

”

and had to wait for a parking spot, but because of the vast amount of land, it didn’t feel that crowded,” Blake says. Even so, “How can you not choose Portland Head Light and Pemaquid Point Light as the most photogenic, with their rocky ledges, beautiful flower gardens, and pristine con-

Insider Tips

National Lighthouse Day on August 7 marks the anniversary of the date in 1789 when Congress passed an Act for the Establishment and Support of Lighthouses, Beacons, Buoys, and Public Piers. Maine Open Lighthouse Day is back on September 11, with twenty-two lighthouses open from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. for visitors to climb their towers. If you plan to see lighthouses that are near each other, you can climb more than one, but be forewarned that Portland Head Light is only giving out bracelets to 280 people to climb it. www. lighthousefoundation.org/eventcalendar/ maine-open-lighthouse-day-2021 MidCoast Maine Lighthouse Challenge will return the last weekend of June in 2022 with access to climb seven Midcoast lighthouses and bonus opportunities to see two more from the water via Camden Harbor Cruises, as well as the Maine Lighthouse Museum in Rockland and the American Lighthouse Foundation in the Keeper’s House at Owls Head. www.lighthousefoundation.org/midcoast-lighthouse-challenge Maine Lighthouse Museum, 1 Park Dr., Rockland, houses the largest collection of lighthouse, life-saving, and U.S. Coast Guard artifacts in the nation. 594-3301. mainelighthousemuseum.com Maine Maritime Museum, 243 Washington St., Bath. Into the Lantern: A Lighthouse Experience is an immersive exhibit that recreates the sensation of standing at the top of a lighthouse. The museum also offers lighthouse cruises down the Kennebec River. 4431316. www.mainemaritimemuseum.org

Ledge Light. For those seeking more of a challenge, “I think Bass Harbor Head Light would be the hardest to photograph,” Blake says. “You can climb down the stairs to the rocks below, but it is still a very difficult shot. The best shots would be from the water.” Clough and Blake agree that the bestkept secret is Maine’s only freshwater light(Continued on page 30)

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J U LY / A U G U S T 2 0 2 1 2 7

By Boat

Doubling Point

A Morning in Maine, 3 Park Dr., Rockland, 691-7245. amorninginmaine.com/activities/2hour-sailing-trip Balmy Days Cruises, 42 Commercial St., Boothbay Harbor, 633-2284. balmydayscruises.com/#balmy-lighthouse Bar Harbor Whale Watch Co., 1 West St., Bar Harbor, 288-2386. barharborwhales.com/ lighthouse-cruises

Maine Lighthouse Odyssey (continued from page 26)

house, Ladies Delight, in the northern part of Lake Cobbosseecontee near Manchester. According to www.lighthousefriends. com, the islet got its name as a “comfort stop” for passengers traveling to Island Park off the north shore by steamboats without restrooms that circled the lake (a five-hour journey) at the turn of the twentieth century.

Casco Bay Lines, 56 Commercial St., Portland, 774-7871. cascobaylines.com

take a boat ride to the island, then get into a dinghy to get ashore. You’ll get your feet wet, but who doesn’t love ocean water?

Halfway Rock

hat if someone—perish the thought!—could only visit one Maine lighthouse? “I would highly recommend Seguin Island Light,” Blake says. “You

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There are many hiking trails to explore on your way up to the lighthouse, and you’ll pass under the last working tram in the state. Seguin is the second-oldest lighthouse in the state, and the only lighthouse north of Massachusetts with the first-order Fresnel lens still in operation. The views out to the horizon or back to Popham Beach are amazing. You’ll be able to explore the keeper’s house as well as the grounds where other buildings once stood, and you might even hear ghostly piano music played by the wife of a former keeper.”

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REPEAT OFFENDERS Would they do it again? Tammy and Mike Clough have already planned their next trip. “All the lighthouses were pretty crowded, since we were there in the summertime. That’s one reason we’re planning another visit in September. We want to take our time and go back to visit a few that we felt rushed through, and we’re excited to see more by water for better photos than when we only saw them from land or by plane. And we enjoy seeing them in all sea-

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sons. Winter lighthouse scenes are beautiful—it’s our favorite time to see them. We’d like to see Maine’s lighthouses in winter— maybe when we retire. Last time we did them south to north. This time we’re going to go north to south. It’s a thousand-mile drive from Michigan, and we can only go 52 mph in our RV, so it’ll take us two and a half days just to get to Calais.” For Maine pharophiles, the tug of those lone towers is no less irresistible. “Growing up on the Kennebec River in the summers at my grandmother's camp, there were lighthouses all around us,” Blake says, “but I do not live near a lighthouse now. We do

plan on moving closer to the ocean in the future, because I miss it terribly. The Portland area lighthouses are an hour away, the Kennebec River is an hour and a half away, and the Rockland area is about two and a half hours away. The anticipation makes it seem like it takes forever to get there! Things are never the same. High tides and low tides, sun, clouds, rain, driftwood, shells, sounds, smells, people, wildlife—everything changes, and it's so exciting! You never know what you'll see or find.” n To see more photos and upload your own, visit portlandmonthly.com/portmag/2021/07/maine-lighthouse-odyssey/.

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his is the forest primeval. In the shadow of a stand of murmuring pines, nestled among the needles, you see a Lady’s Slipper. It’s so lovely it must be from Eden. You approach it slyly and gently close your fingers around its slender stem. You rip it from the ground! No, suh. Don’t go there, don’t do that. Despite what your camp counselor said, you won’t get thrown in jail or fined

for picking lady’s slippers (though you might in Minnesota, where fines reach $1,000). But you’ll never pass for a Mainer if you don’t leave this rare floral recluse in peace to surprise the next passerby. Because only a rat would yank one. It takes sixteen years for one of these wild orchids even to bloom. Left unmolested, the plant can live up to one hundred years… J U LY / A U G U S T 2 0 2 1 3 3

M A IN E MYST IQ U E

NOT A BLAST

Dynamiting fish in Maine’s pristine lakes? Seriously. Don’t go there, don’t do that.

THE ENEMY BELOW

DON’T dive for lobsters. It’s illegal in Maine. (But legal in Massachusetts—what do we know that they don’t?) The penalty is a shotgun blast to the foot. Put more softly, the Maine lobster community is famous for handling problems in their own fashion.

ways in Maine in the spring you will almost always see a beautiful carpet of pink and purple picturesque flowers.” –from “Lupine, a controversial plant,” U. S. National Park Service.

DON’T mess with somebody else’s picturesque lobster buoy or trap. You don’t do that. It’s not a souvenir. “Sir. Sir! We are not believing you did that!” We don’t yank Lady’s Slippers or lobster traps (the Lady’s Slippers of the sea) up here.

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t seems like such a little thing. You might think the bands Schooner Fare and Devonsquare are interchangeable, but confusing them is a tell, Mr. Man. And if you don’t know who the hell they are, we’re not going to tell you. I mean, what Tesla did you just fall out of? You’ve just ordered a BLT. No problem. But when you pronounce “toma34 P O R T L A N D MAGAZINE

to” as “tomahto,” it dances across our ears as though you’re from Ontario. Or London. Which is absolutely spiffing because we love you just the way you are, Bridget Jones. Let’s call the whole thing off.

* * *

We were going to give you a bye on the infraction above because of that cool bluejean tunic you’re wearing. Problem is, you’re wearing it with a pair of otherwise acceptable blue jeans.

And speaking of gorgeous, you didn’t just say Fort Gorgeous, did you? Don’t do that—especially if you’re a Mainer.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: JOSH TREADWELL/U.S. NAVY; SUSAN COLE KELLY; AMATO’S; JT VINTAGE; ALBACORE PARK, PORTSMOUTH; MAINE PRESERVATION

LUPINING AWAY Gotcha! About that bunch of gorgeous lupines you’ve just cut from the side of the highway… It’s not illegal. But we strongly advise against doing it. “In years past, there was a species of Lupine that was native to Maine, Lupinus perennis, but it is now so scarce that it is nearly extirpated from the state of Maine. As you are driving the highways and by-

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You walk into a Portland Amato’s and order a hoagie. An innocent act, wouldn’t you say? Here are some photos for clarification. This is no hoagie, not even if you’re Hoagy Carmichael! This is Portland’s signature sandwich, the Italian. It must be wrapped in wax paper to be the real thing. Salt, pepper, and oil. As Wikipedia disambiguates: “a submarine sandwich, also known as a sub (North American English), hoagie (Mid-Atlantic and Western Pennsylvania English), torpedo, hero (New York City English), Italian (Maine Accent) or grinder (New England and Inland Northern English), is a type of cold or hot sandwich made from a cylindrical bread roll split…” But Wikipedia is wrong. Accept no substitutes. Our perfect sandwich is nonpareil. At least Lauren Bacall (pictured above, left) went to camp in Maine!

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h, so you’ve made it to the top of Mt. Katahdin. And look at you, you’re popping open a bottle of champagne to celebrate! You’ll get fined for littering. This is on the record. The acerbic (and frankly misanthropic) reason for this taboo? “You can’t clean champagne from the top of rocks.” n

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WAT ERFRON T

Lady with a Past CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: NATIONAL ARCHIVES; STAFF PHOTO

Stories start tumbling out as the former Presidential yacht USS Sequoia has some work done at a Belfast boatyard.

ike many seaports across the United States, the area around 40 Front Street in Belfast is a boulevard of broken dreams and boundless promise. This summer the French & Webb boatyard will dig deeper toward a plank-by-plank overhaul of the USS Sequoia, once known to the world as the “Floating White House” that hosted eight presidents. When the Sequoia’s new owners, Equator Capital of Washington, D.C., commissioned Belfast boatyard owner Todd French to manage the project, he went down to Deltaville, Virginia, where the once lustrous presidential yacht was moldering, to oversee her journey to Maine along the Eastern Seaboard atop a barge.

BY COLIN W. SARG EN T

I’M READY FOR MY CLOSE-UP “I was there for six to eight weeks,” French says. “Then I followed it” by land, planning events along the way. Unforgettably, Sequoia passed under the Brooklyn Bridge

on her way up here. “That was deliberate.” Spanning the East River to connect Manhattan to Brooklyn, the Brooklyn Bridge was designed by John A. Roebling (1806-1869) in 1867. The cable-stayed suspension miracle was brought to completion in 1883 under an engineering team led by Washington Roebling, who succeeded his father as chief engineer, and his wife, Emily Warren Roebling, a self-taught engineer who took over her husband’s on-site duties after he became incapacitated with caisson disease. SWING THE CHAMPAGNE A generation later, Roebling’s granddaughter, Emily Roebling Cadwalader, and her J U LY / A U G U S T 2 0 2 1 3 9

WATERFRON T

“ That was

deliberate.”

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pagne (Prohibition be damned!), Sequoia was a party boat par excellence, cavorting off the coast of West Palm Beach and Miami during her early days as a private vessel until a petroleum plutocrat named William Dunning (of Sequoia Oil Company of Texas) snapped her up to use for gambling trips to Cuba only three years later. Even after the Department of Commerce purchased her in 1931, she still turned heads as a decoy for rum-runners. She starred as a snapshot on President Herbert Hoover’s 1932 White House Christmas card, and in 1933, President Franklin Delano Roosevelt put a ring on it: U.S.S. Sequoia was officially entered into the U.S. Navy as the

Presidential Yacht. LADY LIBERTY POINTS THE WAY TO MAINE ast-forward to October 2019. Ever the showstopper, Sequoia really hit her marks as she circled the Statue of Liberty on her way up to Maine for restoration. The original plan was for four years up here, but COVID brought visible progress to a screeching halt. “We put it on pause in the pandemic because of the uncertainty,” French says. “We hadn’t started it yet. There was no need to start ripping it apart” until the time was right. Besides, there’s plenty to do before that:

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: FRENCH AND WEBB (4)

Philadelphia banker husband, Richard McCall Cadwalader, commissioned Sequoia, a John Trumpy, Sr., design launched at John H. Mathis & Company shipyard in Camden, New Jersey, in 1925. The price tag was $200,000 for this symphony of mahogany, teak, and long-leaf yellow pine. Emily Cadwalader named her 104-foot dreamboat after Sequoyah (1770-1843), the visionary Cherokee Nation polymath who, frustrated at being unable to write letters home while serving in the U.S. Army, created the first Cherokee syllabary, ensuring his language would endure in written form forever. From the moment Emily arrived by Rolls-Royce to christen her with cham-

The French & Webb boatyard in Belfast.

have taken over USS Sequoia YAR THEY ARE which used to be the Presihe firm of French & dent’s personal boat but is Webb is celebrated now rusting away and filled for its restoration sucwith trash.” cesses. French is proud of Closer to home, all his darlings, but the Daily News fea“Marilee, a HerreChurchill Martini: tured a photo with shoff New York 40” Chilled gin and olive. the caption: “Racbuilt in 1926, is suresquat on ly one of his favorites. Toss. Replace with scotch. coons American flag as New luxury creations former U.S. presiinclude “the 50-foot dential yacht sits in Wings, based on John disrepair.” Alden’s Malabar series. Which makes us wonder We do a lot of furniture and why, with so many starry politistuff for the superyacht induscal and personal stories to be told, try. We built a hot tub for a superyacht did raccoons take over the narramade of carbon and teak.” tive? Pre-COVID clickbait? “Because French isn’t so keen to talk about the murky financials in which the Sequoia was mired before he and Equator Capital Group got involved. Bangor Daily News has reported a “$700,000 settlement” awarded to Equator Capital when it wrested the vessel from the Deltaville boatyard. Will these proceeds be used to help restore Sequoia in Belfast? “There’s plenty of information about that on the internet,” he says. “What I felt very positive about when I went to Virginia was what we nothing was happening. That’s all there was could do” with the vessel’s future. “I wantto say,” French says. “There’s a new story ed to put a positive spin on it. All this stuff happening now. We have tons of researchabout the muck that it was in and the lawers going to archives everywhere,” discovsuit? That’s old news. I wanted to pull it out ering new stories about guests and historyof the muck.” making decisions aboard this boat. “There’s a lot of positive things happening.” FOLLOW THE RACCOONS The change of venue to Maine is a strong But few are disputing that while in Virstart. Sequoia’s barge-top arrival in Belfast ginia, Sequoia had become a poster child on October 21, 2019, was greeted by a huge for decay. In 2016, a CBS news report on waterside crowd erupting in cheers. raccoons nesting in a drawer of the rotting presidential yacht went viral on YouWHO’S AT THE HELM Tube. How our Allies loved it. Here’s the The global investment firm Equator CapLondon Daily Mail: “The sad decline of the ital owns both Sequoia and the Equator ‘floating White House’: How RACCOONS

Heading to Belfast off Owls Head.

three-dimensional hull scans, materials sourcing and custom creation, and research, research, research. In the meantime, Summer 2021 comes with hope. Covered in shrink-wrap like a national treasure, Sequoia is still the elephant in the living room of this maritime town. Her story is our story. The whole world shares a stake here: when can we recapture our former glory?

J U LY / A U G U S T 2 0 2 1 4 1

WATERFRON T

Collection, which specializes in funding the rescue of historically significant yachts for posterity. So far there are two vessels in this exclusive set. The first, acquired in 2013, is Ambassador Joseph P. Kennedy’s 1931 “Seven Seas” yawl Tenovus, sailed mostly by Joseph Kennedy Jr. and John F. Kennedy off Hyannisport. (The name was a pun on the size of the Kennedy family at the time.) “That’s in our storage warehouse right now,” French says. Sequoia entered the Equator Collection in October 2016. The dream is that one day she’ll return to the Potomac to host more wicked shindigs. SECRET WINDOW ON HISTORY From 1933 to 1977 this lady with a past called Pier 1 at Washington Navy Yard home. Swept for surveillance “bugs,” she slept eight guests; the aft deck could delight between thirty-five and forty revelers during starry presidential cruises on the Potomac. With hidden stories of what transpired during scenic cruises to Mt. Vernon and back still emerging, those already in the logs tantalize. Aboard the “floating Oval Office”: ✭ According to Town and Country, “During World War II, [Franklin Delano Roosevelt] and Winston Churchill discussed military strategies on board, meetings that required FDR to officially decommission the ship to accommodate the prime minister who would not drink on a Navy vessel. The change in official sta42 P O R T L A N D MAGAZINE

Nixon and Brezhnev

cording to the New York Times. ✭ “Richard Nixon and the Soviet leader Leonid Brezhnev worked on détente at a round table on the Sequoia's top deck,” reported the New York Times. Even the terms for SALT I were hashed out on these decks.

tus allowed for the guilt-free consumption of ‘Churchill Martinis’ while the two discussed D-Day cruising the Chesapeake.” (A Churchill Martini is straight gin, chilled, served neat.) FDR also met with General Dwight D. Eisenhower on Sequoia to discuss D-Day plans. ✭ Harry Truman decided to drop the atom bomb while aboard this yacht, acMary Pinchot Meyer at JFK’s birthday

UNDER WRAPS ut all of the gossip and name-dropping pales before President John F. Kennedy’s last birthday party, held aboard the Sequoia on the Potomac. It was his forty-sixth, on May 29, 1963. Among those attending: Jackie Kennedy, Peter Lawford, David Niven, R. Sargent Shriver, Bobby Kennedy, Washington Post publisher Ben Bradlee and his wife Antoinette Pinchot Bradlee, and Antoinette’s sister (and JFK and Jackie’s next-door neighbor in Georgetown), Mary Pinchot Meyer, with whom JFK was romantically linked. Facts about this evening are hard to come by. “The partyers [sic] were guzzling 1955 Dom Pérignon and feasting on

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BALMY BALMY DAYSBALMY DAYSDAYS CRUISES CRUISES

Todd French addresses reporters in Belfast.

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crabmeat ravigote, noodle casserole, asparagus Hollandaise and roast filet of beef,” the Washington Post reported as recently as 2017. “For dessert? Bombe President sauce chocolat…” After the high-profile, low-disclosure birthday bash, Mary Meyer “was fatally shot a year later in Georgetown in a still unsolved murder,” according to the Post. The Sequoia has comprehensive logs of the presidential period, with a notable exception—the time of the Kennedy administration. Mary Meyer graduated from Vassar

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Eleanor and FDR, 1935.

o doubt some presidential scholars are obsessed with that one evening among a myriad of historic nights—a kind of set piece for the 1960s— when Sequoia navigated outside time. It’s gratifying that Sequoia is going to get a first-rate overhaul with us in Maine. All vessels deserve a hard look from the keel up—and another chance at greatness. n

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ROM A N CE

Swept Away Enough about flying your date to romantic destinations all over the world. We’re already here in paradise. Sail the love of your life to one of these shore restaurants that welcomes you to tie up your boat while you have dinner. Then let those harbor lights be your guide. F RO M STA F F & WIR E R E P O RTS

THE SLIPWAY, DAVID CLOUGH; INSET: DIAMOND’S EDGE; SALTWATER GRILLE

hhh. Pass it on. On the best night of the summer—even when you’re distracted by questions like “What’s the difference between a river otter and a sea otter?”—life turns into a postcard. “Greetings from Cocktail Cove! Wish you were here!” Especially when you’re enjoying twilight dining at a dockside restaurant with a lyrical address like 15 Sea Street in Castine. New

J U LY / A U G U S T 2 0 2 1 5 1

“I would like to be swept away on a romantic date to Diamond’s Edge or Crown Jewel on Great Diamond Island, Dolphin Marina & Restaurant in Harpswell, Coastal Prime in Boothbay, or the Chebeague Island Inn.”

this year, Otters Waterfront Eatery is alive with personality as a crowd of hungry patrons sails in. Luckily, we snag an outdoor seat right against the observation rail. We’ve brought our Scottish terrier, Dido, with us, and unbidden our considerate server brings her a dish of water. What a view across the Bagaduce River to Penobscot Bay! In a twinkling, Great Island, Hospital Island, Gray’s Island, High Tide Island, and spectacular Nautilus Island raise their sprucy heads above the water. While we’re tying one on, we watch a trillion-dollar sail-powered yacht glide in and make fast to the floats below our rustic perch. The owners climb a ladder and join the party with their dog, a baby golden retriever with fur so soft it glows. It might be 52 P O R T L A N D MAGAZINE

my imagination, but I feel electricity fizz when his eyes lock with Dido’s.

ou’ve got to love a start-up with “World Famous Caesar Salad” on the menu. Maybe the chutzpah stems from their actually having the best haddock sandwich in the world. Or maybe it’s just the refreshing taste of fun and humor, as in the “World’s Largest Shrimp and Maine Lobster Cocktail…Over a full pound of lightly steamed and chilled plump shrimp and wonderful Maine lobster meat! $27.95.” And the swizzles here! What pirate wouldn’t love “Otter Time”: spiced rum, coconut rum, melon liqueur, blue curacao, pineapple juice, and club soda. The “Wine Not!” recommends we “take a dive into this fresh 60 oz. luscious drink sporting our

blend of vodka, sangria, fresh fruit, and juices with a fizz. $23.99.” The owners are Rob and Ana DeGennaro, formerly of Stonington. Rob says, “We chose this location with the wharf and outdoor seating specifically so boats and yachts could come in from away. And they’re coming—from Camden, Belfast, Bar Harbor, Islesboro, and Stonington. You can tie up and dine with us or call ahead and we’ll pack lunch in a nice Otters texteline bag.” Imagine sailing in a John Marin painting. Just show up for dinner in your boat. No jacket required. COCKTAIL COVE IS A STATE OF MIND It isn’t just racing yachts heeling so bewitchingly that signal Castine is Broad-

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: COURTESY BARNACLE BILLY’S; FORE POINTS MARINA BAR; SALTWATER GRILLE; BISTRO 1828

—Hopeful

ROM A N CE

way on keels. This is one of Maine’s outposts of staggering beauty. If you’re wondering where people are having fun, you’ve found it here. We aren’t leaving. We’ve texted our relatives to make it official. I’ve chained myself to this perfectview umbrella table and ordered a second (giant) fried haddock sandwich. Now that the sky is deepening to blue-purple with the Milky Way whooshing over us, the uber-yacht’s owners wave goodbye, drop down the ladder, and cross the gangplank to their boat. The puppy with the glow on jumps aboard too. With a swagger he adorably surveys the full circumference of his vessel, finishing in the bow. We’re in Maine, and this is mine. Dido yips. The crew is casting off, and she didn’t even get the pup’s cell number.

Previous page: The Slipway, Thomaston; inset: Diamond’s Edge, Great Diamond Island (L); Saltwater Grille, South Portland (R). Above clockwise from top: Barnacle Billy’s Etc., Ogunquit; Marina Bar at Fore Points, Portland; Saltwater Grille, South Portland; Bistro 1828, Kittery Point.

PLANNING YOUR SURPRISE f you’re planning a sail to Peter Ott’s on the Water or The Waterfront Restaurant in Camden, harbormaster Steven Pixley says, “In August you’re taking your chances—it’s a madhouse here. Usually people come in from the outer island chain at lunch time when the overnighters are gone. It’s not good for dinner, because my overnight boats are already here, so I don’t have any space for people to come in for two hours just for dinner. We have inner harbor floats that hold two boats, but you still need a dinghy to get in. If you have a 20'-24' boat, call me up, and

we can get creative. We can fit you in over at Lyman-Morse at Wayfarer Marine also.” Lunch only: 1.5 hours free parking if there’s space. Overnight: $2.50/foot (under 40'); $4/ foot (40'-70'); $6.50/foot (over 70'). Call VHF Channel 16 when you get close.

Cape Neddick Lobster Pound Harborside Restaurant

Cape Neddick Harbor,363-5471. “There’s not many people who come to the restaurant by boat, although we have docks available for those who wish to. The boats that come are usually from the Cape Neddick campground across the street, I would say a couple times a week.”

Coastal Prime

35 Atlantic Ave., Boothbay Harbor, 315J U LY / A U G U S T 2 0 2 1 5 3

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family. We are a private, 43-slip, deep-water marina for Diamond’s Edge Restaurant.” $10 to park if dining only; $3.50/foot of the vessel for overnight. Book online via Dockwa and note your reservation time during checkout (restaurant reservation required to reserve a spot at the marina). Restaurant only: 766-5850.

DiMillo’s on the Water

Clockwise from top left: Bistro 1828, Kittery Point; Cook’s Lobster and Ale House, Bailey Island; Archer’s, Rockland.

Cook’s Lobster & Ale House, Cook’s Wharf

Bailey Island. For docking information, call 833-6641. “We don’t take reservations. If there’s a spot you can tie up, and there are no fees or minimums put on time.”

Coveside Restaurant & Marina

Christmas Cove, South Bristol, 644-8282. “In July and August, I would say fifty to sixty percent of our visitors come by boat when the weather is good,” says owner Lynette McGowan. “We use the app Dockwa. It’s a 54 P O R T L A N D MAGAZINE

lot easier than trying to make a phone call or use a radio. We serve primarily seafood and lobster, but we have a burger bar with sail flags on the ceiling that boaters have given us, with bands on Saturday nights and deck parties on Friday nights. I actually met Walter Cronkite about sixteen years ago. He sailed here in the 1970s and came here by sailboat shortly before he passed away.”

Dolphin Marina & Restaurant, Basin Point, Harpswell, 833-6000. “In the

Deck Bar & Grill at Linekin Bay Resort

all Point, Boothbay Harbor, 633-2494. “I would say we get twenty-five percent boaters, but it’s weather dependent,” says manager Kathleen Sheehan. “We monitor VHF Channel 09. When you call up, you can just pull up to the dock. It’s casual dining with a beautiful view. Last year, I saw Daphne Zuniga from Spaceballs, but I didn’t want to call attention to her.”

Diamond’s Edge Restaurant and Marina

Diamond Cove, Portland. “Diamond’s Edge Restaurant, the Inn at Diamond Cove, Portland Harbor Hotel, and all the rental houses on this island are one big happy

COURTESY PHOTOS

9251. “The sooner boaters let us know they’re coming, the better chance they’ll have at reserving a spot,” says front-office supervisor Clynnie Keller. “Turn on Channel 09 to let us know you’ll be coming to the dock. Usually ten to twentyfive percent of our customers on weekdays come by boat, and fifty percent on Saturdays and Sundays, depending on how nice the weather is. We have dock boys that can help, and docking is free if you’re only eating. Guests can order off the bar menu or the dinner menu when they sit outside, and pets are welcome outside.”

Long Wharf, Portland. Hungry and heading into port? Call DiMillo’s Old Port Marina, 773-7632. They’re friendly and will find a way. Jake says, “Sure, if there’s room at the end of C Dock, you can tie up there.” If you’re out at sea coming in, “you can reach us on Channel 71.”

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summertime, especially in July and August, over fifty percent of diners come by water,” says co-owner Billy Saxton. “We receive over one hundred boats every weekend, and we always have at least two dock lines. The procedure is to approach the marina and give us a call on Channel 09. We have about 1,500 feet of space for the dock, and we can also put people on moorings to transport them to the restaurant. We had Oprah Winfrey come here on an Apple TV book tour. She ate her first lobster roll ever!”

M. Bailey Illustrated by Meaghan By Colin W. Sargent

Freedom Cafe & Pub

Long Lake, Naples, 693-3700. “On a Saturday or Sunday up to 50 percent of our guests come by boat, and 20-30 percent during the week. It’s an open boat spot. Guests who come by boat do not communicate ahead of time. When boats come to the restaurant, they have to pull up to the front. There’s a sign to direct them where to go.”

Holbrook’s Lobster Wharf & Grille Seven Arctic explorers, one Snowy Owl—what could possibly go wrong? Join Arcturus and his pals Lena, Captain Donald MacMillan, and a crew of friendly research sailors aboard the lovely schooner Bowdoin in 1934. The wounded snowy owl gets a lift from Portland, Maine, to his Arctic homeland. On the way, everyone learns something new in this children’s story inspired by a true adventure. $12.95 Suggested for ages 3 to 9.

Cundy’s Harbor, Harpswell, 729-9050. “At least 25-30 percent of our guests come by boat. However, if you count fishermen, that will definitely increase, especially in good weather. We have a 150-foot dock that can fit 30-50 small boats. We don’t have channels or apps to communicate with. It’s more of a first come, first serve basis–and BYOB.”

The Osprey

Snap this QR code with your phone to order on Amazon.

56 P O R T L A N D MAGAZINE

Mile Zero Press

Robinhood Marina, Georgetown, 371-2530. Co-owner Zoli Kecskemethy says, “We have 150 feet of dock that comes with our restaurant, and there are dock hands that can help. We can fit up to four small boats, with others having to wait for a spot. We’re

getting a radio in the next few weeks.”

Slip into Perkins Cove

To dine at Barnacle Billy's, Jackie's Too, M.C. Perkins, the Oarweed, or The Trap in Ogunquit, harbormaster Erin Gott says, “We have our outer docks on the ocean side of our bridge open for transient dockers coming in for a sandwich or drink. Afternooners just show up—they don’t have to call. It’s first come, first serve. There’s a kiosk machine on the dock as you come in to pay. For overnight transient docking we have a limited number of moorings, so it’s best to call and schedule ahead.” Lunch/ dinner-only moorings, $25/hour (two-hour maximum). Overnight moorings, $65/ night. Harbormaster’s cell: 730-8326.

Dock With Us

Let the Carousel Marina Make your day!

Rick's Café

Long Lake, Naples, 693-3759. Here’s looking at you, kid. Can we tie up our boat and come across the street for dinner? “No problem. The gray docks are public docks. They’re free!”

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RO MA N C E Robinson’s Wharf

Deckers Cove, Southport, 633-3830. “We added new floats this year, and they’re full most of the time,” says general manager Rachel Leeman. “We have a deck bar outside and live bands on Fridays. NEWS CENTER Maine anchor Rob Caldwell comes here. It’s a laid-back, pet-friendly, fun restaurant, but not too laid-back!”

Schooner Landing

Scenic Views atop Penobscot Narrows Observatory

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Fogg’s Boatworks Fogg’s Water Taxi & Charters is pleased to present our newest addition: The Casco Bay Cat !

We built this boat to cater to medium-sized parties. With a total capacity of 49 passengers; the Casco Bay Cat is the perfect vessel to tour the bay. It is equipped with a head, a great sound system, and plenty of seating inside and outside.

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amariscotta Harbor, 563-7447. “We’re on the river, so every seat is waterfront seating,” says general manager Scott Folsom. “We have a pub outside, and a stage outside for live music every day, so some people come by boat for music or lunch. As long as people check in, we can accommodate them. We also have a tour boat, paddleboard rentals, a kayak company that runs tours off our docks, four kayak tents, two floating hotel rooms, and three oyster companies. We’re known for our lobster rolls, and we sell lots and lots of oysters! We are in Damariscotta, and this town is big on oysters.” n

DINING GUIDE Anthony’s Italian Kitchen 30 years of Old World recipes. Best meatballs in town. Mile-high lasagnas, fresh-filled cannoli pastries, 54 sandwiches, pizza. A timeless great family spot. Beer and wine. Free parking. 151 Middle St., Portland, AnthonysItalianKitchen.com, 774-8668.

Bandaloop has moved into a restored 1700s barn on Route 1 in Arundel. Since 2004 we have offered locally sourced, globally inspired, organic cuisine. Our new home has plenty of space, parking, outdoor seating, takeout, and an event space in the loft. We continue to offer something for every palate—from vegans to carnivores and everything in between. bandalooprestaurant.com BlueFin North Atlantic Seafood Chef Gil Plaster creates the quintessential Old Port dining experience: classic, contemporary dishes with fresh, locally caught seafood & seasonal ingredients. Breakfast, lunch, dinner, or your favorite cocktail in comfortable elegance or out on the patio w/fire pit. 468 Fore St. 7759090, bluefinportland.com

WWW.F O G G S B OA TW O RK.CO M 58 P O R T L A N D MAGAZINE

Bruno’s Voted Portland’s Best Italian Restaurant by Market Surveys of America, Bruno’s offers a delicious

discover

variety of classic Italian, American and seafood dishes–and they make all of their pasta in-house. Great sandwiches, pizza, calzones, soups, chowders, and salads. Enjoy lunch or dinner in the dining room or the tavern. Casual dining at its best. 33 Allen Ave., 878-9511

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Bull Feeney’s Authentic hearty Irish fare: from-scratch sandwiches, steaks, & seafood. Local craft & premium imported brews. Maine’s most extensive selection of single malt Scotch & Irish whiskeys. Live music 5 nights. Open 7 days, 11:30-1. Kitchen till 10. 375 Fore St. 773-7210, bullfeeneys.com.

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Hurricane Restaurant New England cuisine with an international twist. Lobster & blueberry pie! Local produce and seafood, full bar, award-winning wine list, in-house dessert chef. Sunday brunch. Live music Wednesday nights. Lunch and dinner seven days a week. Bar menu always available. Good restaurants come and go. Great restaurants get better and better. Reservations suggested. 29 Dock Square, Kennebunkport. 967-9111, hurricanerestaurant.com.

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Maria’s Ristorante Portland’s original classic Italian restaurant. Greg & Tony Napolitano prepare classics: Zuppa di Pesce, Eggplant Parmigiana, Grilled Veal Sausages, Veal Chop Milanese, homemade cavatelli pastas, Pistachio Gelato & Maine’s Best Meatballs. See our own sauce in local stores. $11.95$22.95. Open at 5 Wed.-Sat. Catering always avail. 1335 Congress Street 7729232, mariasrestaurant.com. Portland Lobster Company “Maine’s Best Lobster Roll,” lobster dinners, steamers, fried claims, chowder. Enjoy live music daily w/ ice-cold local beer or fine wine on our deck overlooking gorgeous Portland Harbor. 180 Commercial St., 775-2112, portlandlobstercompany.com.

Scratch-made Nice People Totally Authentic ll Feeney’s u B portland’s pub 773.7210 375 Fore Street in the old Port Facebook.com/bullFeeneyS @bullFeeneyS

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If you make a booking with us for a qualifying tour vacation designated a AAA Vacations ® (a “Qualifying AAA Vacations ®”), and you find a Valid Better Rate for the exact same itinerary within 24 hours of ® ® a your qualifying cruise tour vacation designated as arate AAAand Vacations AAA Vacations andCredit you find a Valid Betterone Ratecertifi for cate the exact same itinerary within terms 24 hours booking, AAAorVacations will match the lower send you(aa“Qualifying $50 AAA Vacations Future”),Travel Certifi cate (limit per booking). For complete andof ® your booking,forAAA will ®match the lower rate and send you a $50 AAA Vacations® Future Travel Credit Certificate (limit one certificate per booking). For complete terms and conditions the Vacations AAA Vacations ® conditions for the AAAbusiness Vacations IATA/ARC registered that satisfies the requirements of the Terms and Conditions as determined by AAA Vacations®® in its sole discretion. 3AAA Vacations® ®Amenities vary by 3 IATA/ARC business thatsubject satisfies the requirements the Terms and Conditions as determined by AAA Vacations solethe discretion. Amenities vary by providerregistered and departure and are to change at any time.of44Priority check-in does not include priority embarkation (access into its board ship priorAAA to theVacations start of normal boarding). 5 ® provider and departure and are subject to change at any Priority check-in does not include priority (access board the ship prior toTerms, the start of normalavailability, boarding). AAA Vacations complimentary pre-night hotel stay withtime. breakfast is applicable to select itineraries and embarkation departure dates and isto subject to availability. conditions, 5 ® 6 AAA Vacations pre-night hotelwithout stay withnotice. breakfast isgift applicable toperson selecttoitineraries and departure dates and isonly subject to availability. Terms, conditions, availability, inclusions, and complimentary itinerary are subject to change $150 card per Micato’s Online Safari Shop is valid on select 2020 – 2021 Micato Itineraries. One gift inclusions, and itinerary are subject to change without notice. 6$150 gift card per person to Micato’s Online Safari Shop is valid only on select 2020 – 2021 Micato Itineraries. One gift nonrefundable, nontransferable and has no cash value. nonrefundable, nontransferable and has no have cash value. AAA Travel Alert: Many travel destinations implemented COVID-19–related restrictions. Before making travel plans, check to see if hotels, attractions, cruise lines, tour operators, AAA Travel Alert: Manyauthorities travel destinations implemented COVID-19–related Before making plans, check if hotels, attractions, cruise lines, tour operators, restaurants and local have issuedhave health and safety-related restrictionsrestrictions. or entry requirements. The travel local tourism board tois asee good resource for updated information. restaurants and local authorities have issued and safety-related restrictions or entry Certain restrictions may apply. Rates, terms,health conditions, availability, itinerary, taxes, fees, requirements. surcharges, The local tourism board is a good resource for updated information. Certain may apply. terms/conditions Rates, terms, conditions, itinerary, taxes,notice fees, atsurcharges, deposit,restrictions payment, cancellation & policiesavailability, subject to change without any time. deposit, payment, cancellation terms/conditions policiesAAA subject change without at any time. AAA members must make advance reservations&through Travelto required to obtainnotice Member Benefi ts AAA members must make reservations Travel required to obtain MemberYour Benefi & savings which may varyadvance based on departure through date. NotAAA responsible for errors or omissions. localts &AAA savings vary for based on departure date. Not responsible for errors or omissions. Your local clubwhich acts asmay an agent various cruise & tour providers. CST 1016202-80. To learn how we collect and AAA as an agent tour providers. To learn we collect and useclub youracts information, visitforthevarious privacycruise link at&AAA.com. ©2021CST Auto1016202-80. Club Services, LLC. 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Order online or Call: 866-700-8469 www.freerangefish.com

LIVE LOBSTER - SWORDFISH - HADDOCK - HALIBUT Free-Range: (frê’rãnj’) adj.:

Relating to animals that range freely for food, rather than being confined in an enclosure: free-range lobsters. Our name has a greater meaning than just a sign on our store. Free Range Fish & Lobster is committed to selling you only Fish and Lobster that is fished or farmed in ways that don’t harm the environment or the future of the fishing industry. Free-Range to us means having respect for the fishing industry and the seafood we sell. It is our practice to only buy seafood from fisheries that are run in a sustainable way. This means we do not support overfishing, unregulated or illegal fishing, habitat damage, accidentally caught species and poor fisheries management. Our commitment to you is to offer you the freshest seafood available with the philosophy of maintaining a Healthy Ocean.

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Dark of the Moon The fickle fortunes of sardines in Maine.

B Y DIAN E HUDSON

ow many sardines can you cram into Grand Central Station?

For decades, a shimmering coterie of chefs and gourmets has tried to unravel just that riddle, celebrating the arrival of the Dutch nieuwe maatjesharing (new virgin herring) catch each summer at the terminal’s venerable Oyster Bar. It’s more important than just a trend. In fact, revived enthusiasm for “silver of the

“ The single most

important fish in human history is making waves.”

—seafoodfromnorway.us

sea” is out of the can. Why? Herring and sardines (same family of fish) can be caught in huge abundance for a hungry world. In a COVID-chastened marketplace where Spam is haute cuisine, practical is beauti-

ful—and exotically tasty too. A MATTER OF HERRING-DO Which shouldn’t be surprising in a state like Maine, because we used to set the standard for exporting canned herring and “sardines.” At one time more prized than Maine lobster, sardines were a tony delicacy American bartenders put out on fancy little plates for patrons to nosh on prior to Prohibition. The most sublime exJ U LY / A U G U S T 2 0 2 1 6 1

HU N G RY EY E

pression of the fad took place when Oscar Wilde’s son started a sardine tasting club in London in 1935 where they even identified “vintages” of sardines. Prior to 1870, canned sardines were shipped to North America from Spain and France, until the Franco-Prussian War shut down that import source for the “silver darlings,” creating a perfect niche for American entrepreneurs to start canning the fish on U.S. soil. Maine jumped into the game with its shining schools of silver herring, the filter feeders just waiting to be trapped in weirs or scooped up in seines and into boats headed for the processing plant. None of which was news to Maine’s original inhabitants, who for thousands of years had been building wickerwork weirs and fishing from canoes specially rigged with a torch over the bow. In the dark of the moon, the torchlight drew fish to the area around the canoe where they could be easily caught in a dip net, or the larger ones speared. YOU’RE SO IMMATURE There was just one catch. Although herrings are related to sardines, both classified in the family Clupeidae, they are not the same. But they look and taste similar. Since the market was ripe for canned sardines by name, why not pop juvenile herrings (6 inches or less in length) into tins and label them “sardines”? 62 P O R T L A N D MAGAZINE

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CANNERY ROW The name game worked. It soon seemed every village along the coast of Maine had a small sardine factory. The Maine Coast Sardine History Museum in Jonesport reports that for years these canneries employed more people in the state than any other industry. More than 400 factories operated at one time or another, and during the height of production in the early 1950s, fifty canneries were actively processing. TOO POPULAR he U.S. government bought tons of cans of “sardines” for soldiers during World War II, and the affordable tins made their way into every lunch pail and pantry, becoming a ramen-like student staple. From being a luxury item, sardines became all too common and fell out of favor.

THESPRUCEEATS.COM; YUMMYBAZAAR.COM; FILE PHOTO

After one hundred years, ironically on the eve of sardines being cool again, the last “sardine” factory in Maine and in the U.S., Stinson Seafood in Prospect Harbor, was shut down on April 18, 2010. Contributing factors included overfishing; limits on catch and other regulations; the increasing availability of other non-perishable fish, such as canned tuna; and a need for more dazzle in marketing. By contrast, since 1917, Bar Harbor Foods has understood, canned, and appreciated herring for the delicacy it is. Interestingly, a gourmet product sourced from the Baltic Sea is being unveiled: “New! Petite Sardines in Olive Oil!” Kippers as stylish snacks? Just listen to the Guardian’s foodie-section schooling: “A

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kipper is a whole herring, a small, oily fish, that has been split from tail to head along the dorsal ridge, gutted, salted or pickled, and cold-smoked over smoldering wood chips (typically oak).” Yup, we knew that. POETIC JUSTICE hough it is not so Wilde-ly known in Maine that lobster is a leading consumer of herring. Turns out, the penalty for impersonating sardines is doing time as lobster bait. Meanwhile, the Norwegian fishing industry is big on herring futures. Germany finds inspiration canning herring in a smorgasbord of sauces.

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A WORLD OF FLAVOR So if you must sample a true sardine (or two), you’ll have to devour imports just as in the days before the Franco-Prussian War. Or stroll down to the Old Port. Harbor Fish on Custom House Wharf sometimes has fresh sardines from Portugal ($12.99/lb.) and stocks canned sardines in olive oil from Spain, by Donostia Foods.

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Browne Trading Company on Commercial Street carries artistically packaged Jose Gourmet canned sardines from Lisbon, Portugal and offers fresh, farm-raised sardines imported from Portugal in season ($20/pound, 6-8 per pound). SARDINE SEASON However you get them, just grill them over hot coals, sprinkle with sea salt and lemon juice, and imagine you’re being served by a street vendor in a crowded alleyway in Lisbon or at a festive taverna on a sunny island in Greece. More thoughtfully, close your eyes and remember that you’re in Maine. What a herring renaissance we could have! FUN FACTS • Did you know Wyman’s Wild Blueberries started as a sardine cannery? • According to seafoodfromnorway.us, herring is as important a food source as potatoes or wheat in Europe. Could herring, alias sardines, be the next forgotten fish overdue for rehabilitation in Maine? Send us your recipes! n

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Summerfest, Wiscasset Town Common. Giant yard sale, live music, silent auction, food, bake sale, used books, treasures, jewelry, & handmade crafts, Jul. 24. 882-7544. Topsham Fair, Rt. 196 Coastal Connector. Highlights include harness racing, exhibition hall, live music, agricultural show, & demolition derby, Aug. 10–15. 7291943.

Fairs

Acton Fair, 550 Rte. 109. Midway, parade, 4-H animal events, Cruise’n Car Show, women’s skillet throw, pig scramble, Ms. Acton Pageant, parade, magic & puppet shows, Aug. 26–29. 6362068. Bangor State Fair, Cross Insurance Center, 515 Main St. Condensed version of the fair with rides & games, music, & agricultural exhibits, Aug. 5–8. 561-8300. Belfast Harborfest, 34 Commercial St. Classic boat show, 5K Bug Run, pancake breakfast, boat building challenge, live music, barbecue dinner, cardboard boat challenge, & Habitat for Humanity Lobster Gala, Aug. 13–15. 338-2081. Blue Hill Fair, 233 Ellsworth Rd. A classic country fair including farm animal demonstrations & shows, eating & cooking contests, demolition derby, & live entertainment, Sept. 2–6. 374-3701.

ROCKLAND LOBSTER FESTIVAL

Casco Days, 948 Meadow Rd. Road race, parade, fireworks, midway, & live music, Jul. 29–31. 627-2154. Clinton Lions Fair, 1450 Bangor Rd. Midway & exhibits, parade, car show, street pulls, tractor & truck pulls, live music, & pig scramble, Sept. 9–12. 426-8013. Crown of Maine Balloon Fest, 84 Mechanic St., Presque Isle. Hot air balloon mass ascensions, hot air balloon rides, moon glows, kids carnival, music, craft fair,

farmer’s market, & tasty food, Aug. 26–29. 764-6561. Cumberland County Fair, Cumberland Fairgrounds, 197 Blanchard Rd. All American Rodeo, exhibition halls, animal shows, midway, livestock, animal pulls, demolition derby, & harness racing, Sept. 26–Oct. 2. 829-5531. Eastport Pirate Festival, downtown Eastport. The largest pirate festival in New England. Waterfront fireworks, food, games, live entertainment, crafts markets, street fanfair, parade, & fireworks, Sept. 10–12. 8534343. Eliot Festival Day, Hammond Park & Eliot Elementary School, 1298 State Rd. Community event featuring a 5K road race, outhouse race, crafts, food, live music, dancing, parade, & colonial reenactment, Sept. 25. eliotfestivaland5k.com. Fall Foliage Festival, Railway Village, 586 Wiscasset Rd., Boothbay. Artisan demos, food trucks, music, & children’s corner, Oct. 9–10. 633-4727.

Oct. 3–10. 935-3268. Harmony Free Fair, Rte. 154. Parade, agricultural demonstrations, games, fair foods, truck pull, & demolition derby, Sept. 3–6. 683-5873. Litchfield Fair, 44 Plains Rd. Agricultural fair with rides, antique car cruise-in, & fireworks, Sept. 10–12. 2684981. Maine Highland Games & Scottish Festival, Thomas Point Beach, Brunswick. Featuring the parade of the clans, athletic & dancing competitions, food, sheep dog demonstrations, workshops, & live music with featured entertainment by the Piper Jones Band, Aug. 21. 626-7007. New Portland Lion’s Fair, 280 School St., New Portland. Demolition derby, truck & tractor pulls, cornhole, & onsite camping, Sept. 17–19. 628-3171.

Farmington Fair, 292 High St. Large midway, exhibit halls, livestock exhibits, animal pulling events, & harness racing, Sept. 19–25. 778-6083.

Northern Maine State Fair, 84 Mechanic St., Presque Isle. Truck Pulling, demo derby, Lil’ Farmers at the Fair, car show, animals, horse show, kids games, Baby Beef Auction, antique farm equipment, blacksmith, music, vendors, exhibition hall, & cooking contests, Aug. 5–8. northernmainefairgrounds.com.

Fryeburg Fair, 1154 Main St. Features livestock, agriculture & farming exhibitions, live entertainment, skillet & anvil throw, Woodsmen's Field Day, midway, & food,

Old Orchard Beach Car Show, 11 First St. One of New England’s largest car shows highlighting cars in many different categories & classes, Friday Night Show-

case, & live music, Sept. 17–18. 934-2500. Oxford County Fair, 67 Pottle Rd. Livestock shows, horse pulling, traditional farming & crafting demonstrations, live music, food, & woodsmen day competitions, Sept. 15–18. 739-2204. Piscataquis Valley Fair, 77 Fairview Ave., Dover-Foxcroft. Including a dairy show, pig scramble, skillet throw, pulling demonstrations, tuff truck, flower show, demolition derby, & horseshoe tournament, Aug. 26–29. 717-9100. Pittston Fair, 995 East Pittston Rd. Strawberry pageant, historical museum, goat fun show, pig scramble, tractor pulling, horse shows, exhibitions, & midway, Jul. 22–25. 582-8861. Skowhegan State Fair, Constitution Ave. The nation’s oldest continuously run agricultural fair, featuring truck pulls, demolition derby, harness racing, midway, agricultural exhibits, & live music, Aug. 12–21. 474-2947. Southern Maine Steampunk Fair, Brick Store Museum, 117 Main St., Kennebunk. Maine’s only steampunk fair with vendors of Victorian-futuristic arts & crafts and Victorian lawn games, Aug. 14. 985-4802.

Union Fair, 175 Fairgrounds Ln. Wild blueberry corner, 4-H Exhibits, livestock shows & auctions, exhibition hall, demolition derby, harness racing, fireworks & live music, Aug. 21–28. 785-3281. Waterford World’s Fair, 36 Green Rd., North Waterford. Showcasing rural heritage with livestock, crafts, demonstrations, exhibits, music, food, with new events including stock truck pull, showcase stage, youth livestock show, & Jr. Firefighter Competition, Jul. 16–18. 595-1601. Windsor Fair, 82 Ridge Rd. More than 50 acres of amusement with daily shows, midway, harness racing, woodsman’s day, demolition derby, & large animal exhibit, Aug. 29–Sept. 6. 549-7911. York Days, Short Sands Beach. Summer Lighting of the Nubble, craft fair, 5k virtual road race, movies on Long Sands Beach, & fireworks, Jul. 30–Aug. 8. 363-1040.

Food Festivals

Artisan Bread Fair, Skowhegan State Fairgrounds, 33 Constitution Ave. Dedicated to all things bread with over 50 vendors, demonstrations, live music, hot pizza, & local

Springfield Fair, 91 Park St., Springfield. Family entertainment, truck pulls, demolition derby, exhibition halls, displays, baking com-

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FESTIVAL GUIDE brews, Jul. 31. kneadingconference.com. Damariscotta Pumpkinfest & Regatta, downtown Damariscotta. Pumpkin-boat regatta & derby, pumpkin catapulting, giant pumpkin art, pumpkin-pie eating, & parade, Oct. 8–11. 380-3160. Gray Blueberry Festival, 24 Main St., Craft booths, food trucks, music, & activities, Aug. 14. 657-3339. Harvestfest, Short Sands Beach, York. Local food vendors, kids activities, juried crafters, old-fashioned market vendors, & live music, Oct. 16. 363-4422. Harvest on the Harbor, Ocean Gateway, Portland. Food & wine festival with chef demonstrations, lobster chef competition, Brews & Blues BBQ, & tasting events, Nov. 4–7. Harvestontheharbor.com. Kneading Conference, entirely virtual. Over 25 workshops, demos, panels, & dis-

cussions led by grain leaders from around the world, Jul. 26–30. kneadingconference. com. Maine Cheese Festival, Manson Park, 51 Peltoma Ave., Pittsfield. Largest gathering of Maine cheesemakers in the state, accompanied by artisanal food & drink producers, live music, & food trucks, Sept. 12. (978) 4718399. Maine Harvest Festival, Cross Insurance Center, Bangor. A delicious celebration of Maine’s small farms and their bounty with over 150 vendors on display, featuring artisans, bakers, & vintners, Nov. 20–21. 561-8300. Maine Lakes Brew Fest, 261 Point Sebago Rd., Casco. The area’s largest annual sampling event features Mainemade beers, micro-brews, & wine; with food, live music, & Artisans Craft Show, Sept. 25. mainelakesbrewfest.com. Maine Lobster Week, statewide. The state’s first weeklong celebration of lobster. Lobster shacks, diners, food

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trucks, & restaurants across the state will prepare Maine lobster in dishes ranging from classic lobster rolls to fine dining multi-course meals, Sept.19–25. mainelobsterweek.com. Maine Renaissance Faire, Acton Fairgrounds, 550 ME 109. Jousting, pageantry, unique merchants, comedy & music performances, Jul. 24–25. 850-1162. Milbridge Days, various locations in Milbridge. Horseshoe tournament, cribbage match, pet parade, Gateway Mildbridge outdoor concert with the Allison Ames Band, vendors, arts & crafts, food, blueberry pancake breakfast, slime lab experiment station, Kids’ Wheel of Fortune, Patriots’ Car Show, parade, lobster cookout, Codfish Relay, & fireworks, Jul. 24–31. milbridgedays.com. Ploye Festival & Muskie Derby, Fort Kent. Traditional Acadian buckwheat griddle cakes festival in conjunction with the annual competitive 3-day fishing derby, Aug.

13–15. 834-5354. Potato Feast Days, Monument Park, 109 Main St., Houlton. Festivities include doll parade, craft fair, kids games, & displays, Aug. 21. 532-4216. Rangeley Lakes Blueberry Festival, 6 Park Rd. A celebration of the blueberry season featuring pies, crafts & gifts, vendors, & kid-friendly activities, Aug. 19. 864-5571. Salmon and Seafood Festival, downtown Eastport. End of summer festivity centered around the salmon barbecue, with live music, walking tours, local food & craft vendors, Sept. 4–5. 853-6122. Skowhegan Craft Brew Festival, downtown Skowhegan. Featuring Mainecrafted brews, local fare, and live music in the streets, Sept. 4. 612-2571. St. Peter’s Italian Bazaar, 72 Federal St. Features authentic Italian food, desserts, games & contests, Aug. 14. 733-7746. Taste of Greater Waterville,

Head of Falls, Front St. Food, cultural demonstrations, informative walks, live music, beer & wine gardens, Aug. 4. 873-3315. Wells Chili-Fest, Wells Junior High School, Rte. 1. Food, vendors, and chili cook-offs in three categories with cash prizes, Aug. 28. 646-2451. Whoopie Pie Festival, Piscataquis Valley Fairgrounds, 77 Fairview Ave., Dover-Foxcroft. Earn Your Whoopie Pie 3K Race/ Walk, arts, crafts, & foods offered by more than 100 vendors, live music, rides, games, whoopie pie eating contests, & best-dressed pet contest, Oct. 2. mainewhoopiepiefestival.com. Wild Blueberry Weekend, statewide. Inaugural weekend. Tour wild blueberry farms, pick berries at select locations, & try a new dish or drink, Aug. 7–8. wildblueberries.com. Winter Harbor Lobster Festival, Winter Harbor. Lobster Boat Races, craft fair, lobster

dinner, and parade, Aug. 14. 963-2235.

Arts Festivals

Atlantic Music Festival, Colby College, 4000 Mayflower Hill Dr., Waterville. Hundreds of emerging & established musicians perform to celebrate the work of musical masters, through Aug. 8. (888) 704-1311. Bach Virtuosi Festival, various Portland locations. Concerts featuring the music of J.S. Bach, Aug. 1–7. bachvirtuosifestival.org. Band Camp Music & Arts Festival, Thomas Point Beach, 29 Meadow Rd., Brunswick. Music & art oceanside experience with live music, dance, painting, sculpture, photography, fire spinners, & food trucks. Jul. 26-28. bandcampfest.com. Bar Harbor Music Festival, live and virtual, see website for locations. Founded by violinist Francis Fortier in 1967, the festival provides performance opportunities for outstanding up-and-coming talent,

through Jul. 25. Barharbormusicfestival.org.

Bates Dance Festival, multiple locations in Lewiston. Virtual & live performances including concerts, an interactive video installation, & experimental screendance, Jul. 14–31. batesdancefestival.org.

Belfast Summer Nights, Steamboat Landing, 34 Commercial St. Outdoor summer music series: Dave Clark Jazz Trio, Noah Fishman & Friends, Jul. 22; Tuba Skinny, Aug. 3; Smoke + Mojo, Outerspace Band, Aug. 12; Bennett Konesni, Shirt Tail Kin, Aug. 19; The Right Track, Aug. 26; Downeast Wailers, The Gawler Sisters, Sept. 2, through Aug. 31. facebook. com/BelfastSummerNights. Blistered Fingers Bluegrass Festival, Litchfield Fairgrounds, 30 Plains Rd. Featuring local & national bands, enjoy some of the greatest Bluegrass music at one of the largest family musical events in New England, Aug. 26–29. 873-6539.

COLIN PAGE

Blue Hill Bach. Festival of live & online events featuring the music of J.S. Bach & his contemporaries with educational events throughout the Blue Hill peninsula. Aug. 16–21. 613-5454. bluehillbach.org Books in Boothbay, Railway Village, 586 Wiscasset Rd., Boothbay. Premier Book Fair featuring dozens of Maine authors who will sign their books, discuss their writing, & meet their fans, Sept. 11. 633-3112. Bowdoin International Music Festival, 181 Park Row, Brunswick. Over 200 students & 50 faculty and guest artists gather at Bowdoin College for performances & learning. All concerts & events will be livestreamed, through Aug. 7. 373-1400. Brunswick Outdoor Art Festival, Maine St. Juried, fine arts show including over 140 artists & artisans who will be displaying & selling their work along the sidewalks & on the Town Mall, Aug. 21. 729-4439.

Camden International Film Festival, online & in person at venues in Camden, Rockport, & Rockland. Filmmakers will be in attendance, the Points North Pitch will return as a live event, & over 50 filmmaker fellows will be on the ground for the fest, Sept. 16–26. 200-3171.

Flaherty Farm Arts & Crafts Show, 123 Payne Rd., Scarborough. A show & sale of handcrafted products ranging from woodwork, painting, sculptures, fine arts, painting, photography, & handmade home decor products, Aug. 6–8. 883-5494.

Camden Shakespeare Festival. Professional, non-profit theatre company performing Aquitania in locations throughout Camden, Monson, & Bath, Jul. 21–Aug. 8. camdenshakespeare.org.

Freeport Fall Festival, L.L. Bean, 95 Main St. Over 150 of the best New England artists, craftsmen, & local food producers, with live music, Oct. 1–3. freeportfallfestival.com.

Cornish Bandstand Summer Supper Concerts, The Bandstand at the Old Cornish Fairgrounds, Rt. 25. JimmyJo & the Jumbol’Ayuhs, Jul. 27. Sacoriverfestival.org

Green Woods Roots & Culture Revival, Thomas Point Beach, 29 Meadow Rd., Brunswick. A Reggae (& Biofuel) Powered festival including local food & goods, permaculture & living soil demos, craft beer, & herbal medicines, Aug. 6–8. 725-6009.

East Benton Fiddlers Fest, 270 Richards Rd., Benton. Adult & children’s fiddle contest, children’s activity area, fiddler’s workshop & showcase, performing bands include T Acadie & Pam Weeks, Half Moon Jug Band, Country Choir, & East Benton Jug Band, Jul. 25. 453-2017.

Guild Fine Craft Show, various locations. Featuring fine craft artists from the Maine Crafts Guild, Maine Crafts Association, & League of New Hampshire Craftsmen.

DAVID DRISKELL : ICON

Down to the Seas Again

July 1 - 31, 2021

August 5 - 28, 2021

146 Middle St., Portland, ME • (207) 772-2693 • info@greenhutgalleries.com • greenhutgalleries.com J U LY / A U G U S T 2 0 2 1 6 9

THE BODY

ARCHITEC T

Let’s Talk.

La Rochelle Mansion & Museum, 127 West St., Bar Harbor, Jul. 23–25; Ketcha Outdoors, 336 Black Point Rd., Scarborough, Sept. 18–19; Fort Andross Mill Complex, 14 Maine St., Brunswick, Oct. 23–24. mainecrafts.org.

GRAND REOPENING

International Seaplane Fly-In, Moosehead Lake, Greenville. Enjoy flybys by rare aircraft, a craft fair, a steak-and-lobster cookout, lake cruise, flying, raffles, & contests, Sept. 9–12. 695-2778.

“

One day, I really felt like Maine lobster— hadn’t had it in forever. We walked and walked. I can’t remember the name of the café, but it was right on the water, a funny little place. I ate an entire lobster! Jeffrey says he’s never seen me devour anything like that, with melted butter…Even now, just thinking about it, oh, God! I could die.”

LET’S DO THIS

—Eva Marie Saint, star of Elia Kazan’s On the Waterfront and Hitchcock’s North by Northwest, on visiting Perkins Cove while performing at Ogunquit Playhouse. Interview by Colin W. Sargent, Summerguide 2010.

THEBODYARCHITECT.COM/GRAND

34 ROMASCO LANE PORTLAND, ME 04101 207-774-2196

70 P O R T L A N D MAGAZINE

FESTIVAL GUIDE

207-775-0101

Kneisel Hall Chamber Music Festival, 137 Pleasant St., Blue Hill. One of the oldest and most distinguished chamber music programs in the U.S. Concerts with open rehearsals & audience-attended classes, through Aug. 15. 374-2203. Laudholm Nature Crafts Festival, 342 Laudholm Farm Rd., Wells. This event brings more than 100 artisans to exhibit their wares alongside music, food, & fun, Sept. 11–12. 646-1555. Lit Fest, Thomas Point Beach, 29 Meadow Rd., Brunswick. Flow festival meets funk, soul, new jazz, groove & hip hop, featuring The Alchemystics, Shokazoba, Eyenine, Miss Fairchild, & B3 Kings. Live performance art by Lexi GoGo, Sunrise Storm Hooper, & Hamsahooper, Jul. 24–25. 725-6009. Maine Antiques Festival, 1 Fairgrounds Ln., Union. The largest antiques show in Maine, featuring over 150 antiques dealers offering a wide variety of antiques & vintage items, Aug. 6–8. 221-3108. Maine Outdoor Film Festival, Eastern Prom-

enade. Over 15 hours of outdoor adventure and conservation films, Jul. 29–Aug. 8. 619-3622. Medomak Fiber Arts Retreat, 307 Liberty Rd., Washington. A week of fiber-filled fun, whether it’s knit, crochet, spin, felt, dye or weave, enjoy the company of fellow fiber enthusiasts, Jul. 25–31. 845-6001. Makers on Main, Main St., Freeport. Trail that celebrates local art, crafts, & food from Freeport Town Hall to the Thos. Moser parking lot, Aug. 7, & Sept. 4. Freeportartsandculture.org. MidCoast Film Fest, Lincoln Theater, 2 Theater St., Damariscotta. Original movies, shorts, documentaries, feature-length—all based on a true story, Jul. 23–25. midcoastfilmfest.org. Moosehead Music Festival, 15 Lower Lincoln St., Greenville. Performances by the Don Campbell Band, David Mallett, Mallett Brothers Band, the Boneheads, Denny Breau, Bishop Avenue, Chris Paulsen, & The Social Club, Jul. 23–25. mooseheadmusicfestival.com. Music on the Mall, 191-195 Maine St., Brunswick. Free summer concert series: Pat Colwell & the Soul Sensations, Jul. 28; Pete Kilpatrick Band, Aug. 4; Dirty McCurdy, Aug. 11; Jumpin’ Willys, Aug. 18; MSMT, Aug. 25; Hello Newman, Sept. 1. 729-4439. Portland Chamber Music Festival, Hannaford Hall, 88 Bedford St. Internationally renowned artists perform a wide range of innovative classical & contemporary chamber music, plus education & engagement programs, Aug. 15–21. pcmf.org.

29 GORHAM RD, SCARBOROUGH, ME 207.883.5058 OPEN 7 DAYS

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FESTIVAL GUIDE EXPERIENCE Portland Chamber Music Festival: Summer Benefit, Cove Street Arts, 71 Cove St. Cocktail party with silent auction & performances from PCMF’s Resident Artists, including Bridget Kibbey, João Luiz, & Melissa Reardon, & Jennifer Elowitch, Aug. 15. pcmf.org. Portland Fine Craft Show, 120 Free St. Featuring 100 juried exhibitors from Maine & the Northeast exhibiting fine crafts, Aug. 28. 205-0791. Rangeley Art in August, Oquossoc Park. Annual art show & sale. Prizes will be awarded in both fine art & fine craft categories, Aug. 5. 864-5000. River Jam, various locations in Biddeford. Weekend of music, arts, & outdoor events on the banks of the Saco River with Friday night’s kickoff, Fringe Fest, Aug. 20–21. 284-8520. Salt Bay Chamberfest, Lincoln Theater, 2 Theater St.,

Damariscotta. Featuring the finest chamber music from the styles of the Renaissance to the present day, Aug. 15–29. 522-3749. Schoodic Arts Festival, 427 Main St., Winter Harbor. Packed full of workshops & performances, with programs in film, music, theater and dance, Aug. 2–15. 963-2569. Screen Door Summer Music Festival, Camden Library Amphitheater, 55 Main St. A Story of Tenderness, presented by Bay Chamber Concerts in a “tent with a view” overlooking a view of the harbor featuring the Rolston String Quartet, The Westerlies, Zlatomir Fung, Pedja Muzijevic, Johanna Novom, Catherine Gregory, Jesse Blumberg & Lequita Mitchell & Palaver Strings, Aug. 18–22. Sebago Long Lake Music Festival, Deertrees Theater, 156 Deertrees Rd., Harrison. Live & on demand, “Still Cel-

ebrating Beethoven’s 250th” with participating artists Min-Young Kim & Keiko Tokunaga, Laurie Kennedy & Matthew Sinno, Mihai Marica & Bonnie Thron, Yuri Funahashi & Mihae Lee, & Jered Egan, Jul. 13–Aug. 11. 583-6747. Sidewalk Art Festival, downtown Bangor. Curated, juried selection of artists, demonstrations, live drawing, children’s area, & new wheat paste murals, Oct. 2. 922-2451. South Portland’s Art in the Park, Mill Creek Park. Fine art show with up to 170 artists in styles, sizes, & prices to suit all tastes & budgets, Aug. 14. 767-7605. Summer Solstice Craft Show, Wells Junior High, 1470 Post Rd., Wells. Over 70 Maine & New England artists & crafters with traditional, contemporary & country crafts, including stained glass, jewelry, pottery, soaps, candles, wood crafts, fiber arts, graphics,

photography, & handcrafted specialty foods, Sept. 11–12. 646-5172. Thomas Point Beach Bluegrass Festival, 29 Meadow Rd., Brunswick.Celebrating over 4 decades of bluegrass friends & family, including a showcase band competition, cash bingo, late-night performances, artist workshops, guided jam tent, & daily family activities, Sept. 2–5. thomaspointbeachbluegrass.com Virtual Maine Quilts, virtual event. Quilt exhibition, vendor mall, demos, & daily lecture, Jul. 29–31. mainequilts.org. Waterville Rocks, Head of Falls with rain venue at Waterville Opera House, 1 Common St. Free, familyfriendly, outdoor concerts with beer garden: Spencer Albee Jul. 23; The Wolff Sisters, Jul. 30; Casey Abrams, Aug. 6; The Big Takeover, Aug. 13. 616-0292. Winter Harbor Music Festival, 427 Main St.

Program featuring returning artists such as Deirdre McArdle, Deiran Manning, Anatole Wieck, Sasha Beresovsky,Carol Wincenc, & Evangeline Benedetti Concerts streamed with a limited live audience, Aug. 8–22. (917) 238-0819. York County Blues Fest, Friendship Park, 231 Old Alfred Rd., Waterboro. Featuring Paul Nelson Band, Thornetta Davis, Andy Schoenfeld, Deej SG & Co., Memphis Lightning, Mike James Blue Lion, Bonnie Edwards & The Practical Cats, Aug. 21. 247-6166.

Outdoor/Sporting Antique and Classic Boat & Car Show, Naples Town Dock. Featuring marina developers, motorboats, sailing boats & yachts, ship management, small boats, water skiing equipment, water sports clothing, water tourism, windsurfing & equipment, Aug. 14. mountainviewwoodies.org.

A M E R I C A’ S O L D E S T S H O E S T O R E

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Beach Olympics, 1 Old Orchard St., Old Orchard Beach. Three days of games, fun competition, live music, & a silent auction, Aug. 19–21. 934-2500. BHYC Regatta & Shipyard Cup Classics Challenge, Boothbay Harbor Yacht Club, 56 Western Ave., West Boothbay Harbor. Adding several divisions of Classic Yachts & a “casual cruising division” for first time racers & other boats, Jul. 24–25. bhyc.net. Camden Classics Cup, Lyman-Morse, 59 Sea St. Celebration of classic yacht racing & boatbuilding with two days of racing for sailboats with a panoramic backdrop, Jul. 29–31. camdenclassicscup.com. Family Harvest Days, Railway Village, 586 Wiscasset Rd., Boothbay. Celebrate the bounty of autumn at this old-fashioned, family friendly festival, Oct. 2. 633-4727. Forest Heritage Days, Greenville Consolidated School, 130 Pritham Ave. Colby Woodsmen demonstrations, working forest bus tours, guest performances & presentations, craft fair, raffles, horse & carriage rides, forestry exhibits, & Game of Logging competition, Aug. 14. forestheritagedays.org.

Open by appointment Tuesday through Friday afternoons Please call, text or email To set up a time

Friendship Sloop Society 60th Homecoming Regatta, Rockland Public Landing, 1 Harbor Dr. Three-day racing celebration & parade, Jul. 22–24. fss.org.

Maria’s Ristorante – Portland’s Traditional Italian Restaurant –

Named one of the 50 Best Old-School Italian Restaurants in America!

Six Course Italian Dinner for Two

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Open Tuesday–Saturday | www.mariasrestaurant.com | 1335 Congress Street, Portland | 772-9232 J U LY / A U G U S T 2 0 2 1 7 3

FESTIVAL GUIDE Oquossoc Day, Outdoor Heritage Museum, 8 Rumford Rd., Rangeley. Over 30 vendors participate in the art, Challenge Cup in Oquossoc Cove, crafts & antique show, Aug. 21. 864-3091. Lobsterman Triathlon, 10 Winslow Park Way, Freeport. One of the top triathlons in the country, this Olympic-distance “destination race” includes a postrace lobster bake, Sept. 18. 603-290-2222. Maine Boat & Home Show, on the waterfront in Rockland. Artists, architects, boatbuilders, craftsmen, designers, furniture makers, jewelers, & marine gear vendors, featuring elegant boats, live music, food court, fine furniture & jewelry, & just-for-kids area, Aug. 13–15. maineboats.com. Maine Boatbuilders Show, 100 West Commercial St. Celebrating the boating community & the diversity of Maine’s ocean economy with

indoor exhibits, 2,500 ft. of docks for in-the-water exhibits, seminars all three days, a marine flea market, educational & job opportunities, & all kinds of boats for sale, Jul. 23–25. 774-1067. Maine Lobster Boat Races, Harpswell, Jul. 25; Winter Harbor, Aug. 14; Long Island, Aug. 21; Portland, Aug. 22. Open Farm Day, Balfour Farm, 461 Webb Rd., Pittsfield. Tours, farmers’ market, horse drawn wagon rides, & live music, Jul. 25. 213-3159. SailMaine Festival & Regatta, Two days of racing with a boat parade & the windward (painted sails) exhibit. Aug. 14–15. sailmaine.org. Skowhegan River Fest, 93B Water St. Annual event that celebrates recreation & life on the Kennebec. Specific activities & celebrations to be finalized, Aug. 3–8. skowheganriverfest.com. Tough Mountain, Sunday River Resort, 15 South Ridge Rd., Newry. An adventure obstacle 5k race with both

natural and man-made challenges for kids & adults, Jul. 24. (800) 543-2754. Woodlawn Croquet Mini Lobster Tournament, Woodlawn Museum, 19 Black House Dr., Ellsworth. Providing a unique blend of six & nine wicket competition on several different courts, this tournament draws players from around the country & Canada, Sept. 8–12. 667-8671.

Learning Festivals

Acadia Night Sky Festival, various locations in Bar Harbor. Offering presentations, gatherings, & activities to be finalized, Sept. 29–Oct. 3. 801-2566. Blue Hill Maritime Heritage Festival, Blue Hill Town Wharf & Historic Village. A Bicentennial Celebration: ‘The 2-0-7 Turns 2-0-1’, with boat building demonstrations, traditional boats on display, boat rides, arts & crafts, & musicians playing

sea shanties & fiddle tunes, Aug. 21. bhmhf.org. Common Ground Country Fair, 294 Crosby Brook Rd., Unity. Celebrate the organic and rural version of the good life and learn new things about farming. Agricultural demonstrations plus produce & crafts vendors, food, & music, Sept. 24–26. 568-4142. Fields Pond Butterfly Festival, Fields Pond Audubon Center, 216 Fields Pond Rd. Holden. Monarch tagging, Insect BioBlitz, & Butterfly crafts. Come dressed as your favorite butterfly & join the Butterfly Parade, Aug. 28. maineaudubon.org. New England Auto Auction, Owls Head Transportation Museum, 117 Museum St., Owls Head. One of the most highly anticipated sales of the year for automotive enthusiasts with inventory showcasing everything from rare & coveted vintage treasures to classic favorites & restoration masterpieces,

Aug. 18–21. 594-4418. Thoreau Wabanaki Trail Festival, Center for Moosehead History, 6 Lakeview St., Greenville, & on Sugar Island, Penobscot River. Cultural & historic presentations such as basket making, flintknapping, plant walk, wood carving, nature walk to wigwams, campfire & talking circles, drumming & singing, & canoeing, Jul. 21–26. 695-2909. Vintage Motorcycle Festival, Owls Head Transportation Museum, 117 Museum St., Owls Head. Exhibitor car show, live demos, open air cafe, guided tours, kids’ activities, aircraft exercises, interactive STEAM displays, & vintage car rides, Sept. 4. 594-4418. Wings & Wheels Spectacular, Owls Head Transportation Museum, 117 Museum St., Owls Head. Antique aircraft demonstrations & scenic biplane rides, Aug. 7–8. 594-4418.

JEREMY HOUGHTON OVER THE POND 08.06. 21 - 09.01.21

KW CONTEMPORARY ART

184 Port Rd, Kennebunk, ME www.kwcontemporaryart.com 207.204.0480 74 P O R T L A N D MAGAZINE

PERFORMAN C E

, u o Y t u o With w o h S o N There Is

Taking five with Grace Kelly, starring at Jonathan’s in Ogunquit.

BY CO L IN W. SAR GE NT

rowing up in Wellesley, and then going to Berklee College of Music, you must have come up to Maine on some summer weekends.

I have a deep history with loving Maine. I went to music camp there—Camp Encore/ Coda. I remember the most amazing lobster meals. Gorgeous walks outside, playing music everywhere. We played in a venue called the Chocolate Church [in Bath], and in Portland. How did Jonathan’s approach you?

It was to my agent. I’ve heard such great things about the club. James Montgomery and Tom Rush have told me. Where will you go in Maine once you’re up here? MEHDI HASSINE

Where should I go?

Old Orchard Beach Pier. The greatest jazz musicians in the world played here —Count Basie, Duke Ellington. My father talked with Buddy Rich once after a show at

the dance hall at the end of the pier. The music’s still out there. Dave Brubeck used to come to Maine every summer. He stayed at the Black Point Inn in Scarborough, on the water. It inspired him to write a Grammywinning CD that rewired after-dinner music to be postmodern and scary. Just You, Just Me. What was it like appearing with him?

I played with him at the Kennedy Center with an all-star cast put together by Wynton Marsalis. It was insane. [Brubeck] had this almost childlike personality and demeanor. When he saw me, he jumped and said, “Grace!” He had a little trouble getting around, but as soon as he got to the piano, he took off. Never in my wildest dreams did I think I’d get an invitation to sit in with him. How is your work like, or unlike, Brubeck’s great saxophone player, Paul Desmond’s?

To me, there’s no other saxophone player who ever sounded like Paul Desmond. I

think he described it as “dry martini.” His tone, his lyrical style, sounds so simple, yet it’s very complex. I’ve spent so many hours just jamming with recordings of him. Which brings me to Stan Getz. He’s the reason why I got started. My parents were big Antonio Carlos Jobim fans. His songs like “The Girl from Ipanema” were on repeat during Sunday brunches. My experience was that Desmond and Getz sounded like somebody singing to me. I was so proud when someone told me, “Your alto sounds like a tenor, it’s so dark and sexy.” I got that from Stan Getz—that smoky sound. What do most people misunderstand about a saxophone?

Saxophones are percussion instruments too. Like a drum. Slap tongue. Incredible people like Colin Stetson are pushing those boundaries. He’s a wizard with circular breathing. There are so many things you can do with extended techniques, with the harmonics. A solo saxophone can be the drummer, bass player, and the lead line. It’s not just a solo instrument—it’s the whole band. Looping creates new soundscapes. There are a lot of beautiful sounds that come out of a saxophone, but a lot are craJ U LY / A U G U S T 2 0 2 1 7 5

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P ER F O RMA N C E zy! Aggressive. Which brings us to breaking new ground in music. How do you feel you’re pushing the envelope musically? I see your sound described as innovative, electropop, jazz.

The saxophone is such a versatile instrument. I’m trained in jazz: Charlie Parker, Johnny Hodges, Coltrane. If they were alive today, they’d want to see saxophone integrated with groove, with the harmonic richness. These days I’m trying to contemporize the saxophone with vocalizing and electronic production. The saxophone is a bridge to groove, jazz, funk. Phil Woods, one of my mentors, told me, “Go for it. Do your thing.” To hear a great master like him say that! Jazz fits into any style of music. Fusion. Jazz and hip-hop. Kendrick Lamar—they had some great jazz players. There’s no need to label whether this is jazz or hip-hop or pop. Listen to what’s pulling on your heart. Do you compose your work on the piano, or how do you do it?

I do, a lot. Most of my composition is in my head, and then it will guide me to an instrument. What time of day do you write your own material?

I used to be a complete night bird, but now I’m a morning person. Marcus Miller told me the best time is early, when you’re in a dreamy, foggy state. If something creative hits me, I’ll stop whatever I’m doing and get it down. You have a song that summons up Bill Withers. Do you ever talk to the dead in your music?

eah. I’m writing a song right now about that. I was having a conversation with a fan. “My wife has passed on. I heard her during your set.” There are times when I get the feeling I’m connecting to something more spiritual and beyond and am able to channel that through music. What are your most embarrassing moments on stage?

There was a funny moment playing in Santa Cruz during a great show. The audience was just delightful. We came back for the second act, and a guy calls up to us, “You are ALL so sexy!” He was probably talking about my drummer. What do you say? “You too-oo!” But embarrassing? I was sitting in with Harry Connick, Jr., in Massachusetts, in a 76 P O R T L A N D MAGAZINE

beautiful theater. He asked me, “Could you come up and sit with me and my band on stage?” I didn’t know what song we were going to play. I barely had my saxophone ready. Twelve bars went by before I could pick up the tune. Then there’s Russell Malone in the Detroit Jazz Festival. He asked me to come up onstage and kept me up there for the entire set. Sixty minutes, not knowing any of the songs! Russell would look at me and say, “You’ve got it.” And I’d have a solo. Your drummer has called you effervescent. To be on like that, you have to recharge your batteries. What secret place do you go to for your alone time?

feel the artist’s life, whether it’s touring or not—I feel it’s important to charge those batteries up. I go into meditation. I have a wonderful teacher who I meet with regularly online. He’s helped me with a journaling process. I’m an avid workout person too. I relax by spending time with friends. I like creative jam sessions where it’s not about, “I have to make this music.” We forget, because it’s our job, how fun it is. I’m taking hikes now that I live in Los Angeles: Griffith Park, Malibu, the Santa Monica mountains. I’m looking for new and more unusual sport-hiking trails. If you’re reading this, send me a note. What’s the longest time you’ve gone without playing the saxophone?

Two weeks, maybe even a month, during a vacation. I’ve never stepped away intentionally. I’m going to put that on my list. There’s something I like about the idea of stepping away. Music lives in one’s head. I can air-play it. You need to practice it to keep your muscles up, but in a way, the saxophone’s forgiving. You can step away for a few months. Your fingers will be rusty and you won’t be able to play as fast or as long. Leaving a trumpet and returning would be much harder.

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Do your friends ever say, “Did you have to bring your saxophone with you?” When they don’t get it, or just feel tired, do they think of your sax as a scary ventriloquist doll?

I kind of wish my friends would say that to me! Sometimes you can’t quite relax because you have all this stuff with you. But mostly it’s “Bring your sax!” The most I’ll practice a day is an hour or thirty minutes. No one complains. Well, once there was a neighbor. I have a twenty-five-pound baritone saxophone. “Can you, like, stop playing your baritone sax after 9 p.m.?” We worked it out.

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P ER F O RMA N C E Has anyone ever stolen your instrument and returned it?

Even if I go into a coffee shop I’ll take it with me, because I’ve heard so many bad stories. My friend’s trumpet got stolen off the plane he was on! I keep my saxophone in sight in the plane’s luggage bin. I’ve left it at venues, though. I even left it in an Uber. But I’ve always gotten it back. I had my business card in the case. Joshua L. Noddin, Host

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Have you ever dropped one underwater, like a cell phone?

I did a risky thing. I took my soprano sax into the ocean with me and played a pop-up video. I was on this cruise and we stopped at a beautiful beach in Haiti. I only went knee high in the water. It’s on YouTube. A bunch of people started to surround us. That’s the closest I’ve ever gotten to dropping one in the water. Water ruins the pads on a saxophone. There is a specific saxophone that’s plastic that you can bring into the bath with you. There may be a sacrifice in its musical qualities, though. Have you ever played in Monaco, where you’d have to disambiguate the whole Grace Kelly thing?

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I would love to! I was so close once. There was an event that was associated with the prince that almost happened. What’s your astrological sign, and do you play that way?

My birthday’s in May. I’m a Taurus. I think that actually I do play that way—very fiery and bullish. And being close to my emotions and being vulnerable. But I realize the bullish part of me really comes out when I’m playing the saxophone! Is there a song you refuse to play?

No!

When you were sixteen, did President Obama offer you any congratulations or advice when you played at his first inauguration?

No. His people were there at the performance. I heard it was really well received. Being there was euphoric—the feeling and the energy. Of course it’s contagious.

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Sax and the single girl, the fairer sax, saxual healing. You’ve probably suffered through insufferable saxophone jokes. Which do you hate the most?

My favorite saxophone jokes are about trombones. n

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78 P O R T L A N D MAGAZINE

EXPERIENCE

Get out on the water

If you don’t know how to sail, row, or paddle a boat, Aqua Trikes are as easy as riding a bicycle. $30 for up to 3.5 hours at Dingley’s Wharf, 851 Roosevelt Trail, Naples. 693-5153. dingleyswharf. com/aqua-trikes/ If there’s anything more awkward to travel with than skis, it’s a surfboard. Why BYO when you can rent one from Black Point Surf Shop, 134 Black Point Rd., Scarborough, by the half day ($15), day ($25), or week? The water’s not that cold! 939-6016. www.blackpointsurfshop. com/lessons-rentals-1 The Diamond Pass Run from Casco Bay Lines, 56 Commercial St., is a landlocked girl’s best friend. This 2-hour cruise of the Inner Bay includes 4 stops on Little Diamond Island, Great Diamond Island, and Peaks Island for $16. 774-7871. www.cascobaylines.com/ maine-boat-tours/specialtycruises/sunset/ Spend those lazy days of summer floating down the Saco River. A one-mile float with sandy beaches and rope swings along the way costs $20 at Saco River Tubing Center, 558 White Mountain Highway, Conway, NH, including tube with backrest and cup holder, shuttle, life vest, parking, and free repeat floats. (603)447-4275. sacorivertubing.com/rates/ If a pricey booze cruise would break the bank, BYOB and enjoy live music among the islands and lighthouses of Casco Bay on a two-hour Live Sunset cruise from Fogg’s Water Taxi, 72 Commercial St., on Wednesday evenings for $30. 415-8493. www.eventbrite.com/o/ foggs-water-taxi-amp-charters-23379460594

Theater

Acadia Repertory Theatre, 1154 Main St., Mt. Desert. Fully Committed, Jul. 27– Aug. 15. 244-7260. Araxine Wilkins Sawyer Foundation, 371 Sawyer Rd.,

Greene. Abracadabra!, Aug. 19. 946-5311. Belfast Maskers, 17 Court St., Belfast. Little Women, the musical, through Aug. 1. 619-3256. Camden Public Library, 55 Main St. Atlantic Ballet Company, Somewhere Over the Rainbow, Aug. 11. 236-3440. Celebration Barn Theater, 190 Stock Farm Rd., South Paris. Antonio Rocha’s Brace Yourself—Here Comes A Brazilian, Jul. 31; Fruit Flies Like a Banana, Aug. 21; Evicted Vaudeville, Aug. 28. 7438452. City Theater, 205 Main St., Biddeford. The Marvelous Wonderettes, Jul. 23–Aug. 7. 282-0849. Deertrees Theater, 156 Deertrees Rd., Harrison. The Knotty Nite Play Readings, Aug. 14; Always...Patsy Cline, Sept. 3–4. 583-6747. Footlights Theatre, 190 US1, Falmouth. The She Shed: Out of Quarantine, Jul. 20– Sept. 2. 747-5434. Hackmatack Playhouse, 538 Rte. 9, Berwick. The Spitfire Grill, Aug. 6–28. 6981807. Heartwood Theater, 81 Academy Hill Rd., Newcastle. Pride & Prejudice, Jul. 29– Aug. 7. 563-1373. Lakewood Theater, 76 Theater Rd., Madison. Drinking Alone, Jul. 29–Aug. 7; Living on Love, Aug. 12–21; Scapino, Aug. 26–Sept. 4. 474-7176. Maine State Ballet, Lopez Theater, 348 US-1, Falmouth. Classical Gala live, Jul. 30– Aug. 7, & on video, Aug. 8–21. 781-3587. Maine State Music Theatre, Pickard Theater, 1 Bath Rd., Brunswick. Beauty & The Beast, Aug. 12; Shrek: The Musical, Aug. 19. 725-8769. Mainestreet, 195 Main St., Ogunquit. Dueling Drag Divas live singing & comic celebrity impression show, every Wed., Fri. & Sat.; Booby Tunes starring Sutton Lee Seymour, Aug. 20–21; EDIE Las Vegas Showgirl: Unleashed, Aug. 27–28. mainestreetogunquit.com.

Nasson Little Theatre, 457 Main St., Springvale. Anne of Green Gables, Aug. 20, 21, & 28. 324-5657. Ogunquit Playhouse, 10 Main St. Escape to Margaritaville, through Aug. 28; Mystic Pizza, Sept. 1–Oct. 2. 646-5511. Opera House Arts, Stonington Ball Field, 40 School St. Othello community playreading, Jul. 30–31; Broadway Comes to Stonington, Aug. 1; Desdemona, a play about a handkerchief, Aug. 13–29. 367-2788. RFA Lakeside Theater, 2493 Main St., Rangeley. The Death of Robin Hood, Jul. 30–Aug. 2. 864-5000. St. Lawrence Arts, 76 Congress St. Signed, Abigail R, Aug. 6–8. 775-5568. Schoodic Arts, Gouldsboro Town Park, Prospect Harbor. A Dangerous New World: Maine Voices on the Climate Crisis, Aug. 3; Molly Gawler: Droplet Dance, Aug. 4; Frogtown Mountain Puppeteers, Aug. 9; Meetinghouse Theatre Lab: An Evening of Improvisation, Aug. 12; Michael Trautman: Head in the Clouds, Aug. 13; Delicious Divas: An Epic Drag Show, Aug. 14. 963-2569. Schoolhouse Arts Center, 16 Richville Rd., Standish. Willy Wonka KIDS, Aug. 12– 15; Little Mermaid Jr., Aug. 26–29. 642-3743. Theater at Monmouth, Cumston Hall, 796 Main St. The Age of Bees, Jul. 22–Aug. 19; Sofonisba, Jul. 29–Aug. 21; Aesop’s Guide to Friendship, through Aug. 13; Daddy Long Legs, The Agitators, through Aug. 20; Crumbs from the Table of Joy, through Aug. 21; Measure for Measure, through Aug. 22. 933-9999. Vinegar Hill Music Theater, 53 Old Post Rd, Arundel. Mike Super: Magic & Illusion, Aug. 21. 985-5552. Westbrook Performing Arts Center, 471 Stroudwater St., MSMT Presents: Jersey Boys, Sept. 1–19. 725-8769.

Music

Araxine Wilkins Sawyer

Foundation, 371 Sawyer Rd., Greene. The Downeasters Chorus, Jul. 30; The Katahdin Valley Boys, Aug. 13. 946-5311. Auburn Public Library, 49 Spring St., Earth Jams, Aug. 11. 333-6640. Aura, 121 Center St. Soul Asylum, Aug. 6; Don Campbell Band, Aug. 13; One Night of Queen, Aug. 14; Squeeze, Aug. 16; The Steel Woods, Aug 18; Beatles 1964, Aug. 28. 772-8274. Belfast Flying Shoes, Steamboat Landing Park, 34 Commercial St. Sundays in the Park: Irish & Irish American music & dance, Aug. 22. 338-0979. Boothbay Harbor Memorial Library, 4 Oak St. Hallowell community band, every Thu. 633-3112. Bridgton Twin Drive-In, 383 Portland Rd. The Starlight Honeys, Aug. 22; King Memphis, Aug. 29; The Shadow Riders, Sept. 5. 647-8666. Camden Public Library, 55 Main St. Quanam, Aug. 8. 236-3440. Camden Opera House, 29 Elm St. Hiroya Tsukamoto, Aug. 6; Megan Koumis, Aug. 13; Lindsay Mower, Aug. 20; Larksgrove, Aug. 27; An Evening with Tom Rush, Sept. 4. 236-7963. Camden Snow Bowl, 20 Barnestown Rd. Jason Spooner Band & Travis J. Humphrey, Aug. 8; Primo Cubano & Ryan Blotnick Quartet, Aug. 22. 236-3438. Carousel Music Theater, 196 Townsend Ave., Boothbay Harbor. Say It With Music, through Aug. 14; Hold Tight It’s 60s Night, Aug. 17– Sept. 18. 633-5297. Center Theatre, 20 E. Main St., Dover-Foxcroft. Beatles For Sale, Aug. 6. 564-8943. Dance Hall’s Concerts by the Bridge, John Paul Jones Park, U.S. 1 Bypass, Kittery. Sojoy, Jul. 31; Mike Effenberger Organ Quartet, Aug. 7; Tribute to Van Morrison’s “Astral Weeks” with Elroy, Aug. 21. 703-2083. Darling’s Waterfront Pavilion, 1 Railroad St., Bangor.

Luke Bryan, Aug. 5; KISS, Aug. 19; Thomas Rhett, Aug. 20. 358-9327. Deertrees Theatre, 156 Deertrees Rd., Milltown Roadshow, Aug. 5; 85th Anniversary GALA with Memorize You... premiere, Aug. 7; Heather Pierson Trio, Aug. 10; Piano Men: music of Elton and Billy, Aug. 13. 583-6747. Denmark Arts Center, Bicentennial Park, Firelane 98. Hanz Araki & Bethany Waickman, Aug. 6; Shark Martin, Aug. 20; Lazy River Riders, Aug. 27; Milltown Roadshow, Sept. 3. 452-2412. First Congregational Church, 55 Elm St., Camden. Candlelit Baroque, Aug. 13. 236-2823. Flight Deck Brewing, 11 Atlantic Ave., Brunswick. Jenny Lou Drew, Jul. 30; Always, Sometimes, Aug. 6; Los Pinguinos, Aug. 20; Cribstone, Aug. 27. 504-5133. Freedom Cafe, 923 Roosevelt Trail, Naples. Elvis, Johnny Cash, & Roy Orbison Tribute Show, Aug. 12; Elvis Gospel Brunch, Aug. 15; Funky Reggae Party on the lawn, every Sat. through Sept. 4; Hangin’ with Hooper! (And Rusty Too), every Sun. through Sept. 5. 693-3700. Frog & Turtle, 3 Bridge St., Westbrook. Moore, Wild & Lynch, Aug. 13. 591-4185. George Mitchell Field, 1410 Harpswell Neck Rd., Harpswell. Portland Jazz, Aug. 5; Cul-de-Sax, Aug. 12; Soul Sensations, Aug. 19; Delta Nights, Aug. 26. 833-5771. Haley Pond Park, Pond St., Rangeley. Jazz Time 99, Jul. 26 & Aug. 16; Sami Stevens & Kazemde George, Aug. 9; Sandy River Ramblers, Aug. 23. 864-5000. Hamilton House, 40 Vaughan’s Ln., South Berwick. Joyce Anderson, Aug. 1; Alejandro Graciano, Aug. 8; Dis-N-Dat Band, Aug. 15. 384-2454. Johnson Hall Theater, Gardiner Landing, ME-24. Waterfront Concert Series: Lauren Crosby, Jul. 30; Borderline Express, Aug. 6; The Half

J U LY / A U G U S T 2 0 2 1 7 9

EXPERIENCE Moon Jug Band, Aug. 13; The Tim Sullivan Band, Aug. 20; AstroPlanet, Aug. 27. 582-7144. Jonathan’s Ogunquit, 92 Bourne Ln. Elton John Experience, Aug. 1, 29; Dueling Pianos, Jul. 31, Aug. 7, 14; Grace Kelly, Aug. 6; The Ultimate Tribute to Rod Stewart, Aug. 8, 15; Jimmy Keys, Aug. 21; Life’s a Drag, Aug. 22. 646-4777. Kittery Community Center, 120 Rogers Rd. Ben Baldwin & The Big Note, Jul. 29; The Jim Dozet Band, Aug. 5; Susie Burke & David Surette, Aug. 12. 703-2083. Library Park Gazebo, 890 Washington St., Bath. Bath Swing Band, every Tue. through Aug. 31; Bath Municipal Band, Jul. 30, Aug. 20, Aug. 27; Maine Suzuki Association, Aug. 6; Midcoast Symphony String Orchestra, Aug. 13. 442-7291. Louis T. Graves Memorial Public Library, 18 Maine St., Kennebunkport. Don Wessel & Lisa Mills, Aug. 3. 967-2778. Maine Savings Pavilion at Rock Row, 59 Westbrook Art., Westbrook. Brothers Osborne, Jul. 31. 358-9327. Maine State Music Theatre, Pickard Theater, 1 Bath Rd., Brunswick. The Stars of MSMT #1, Jul. 28–Aug. 1; The Stars of MSMT #2, Aug. 4–8; Welcome Home, Aug. 8–9; Piano Men: The Music of Elton John & Billy Joel, Aug. 15–16; Christine & Patsy, Together Again…, Aug. 22–23. 725-8769.

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Music on the Mall, Brunswick Town Mall. Pat Colwell & the Soul Sensation, Jul. 28; Pete Kilpatrick Band, Aug. 4; Dirty McCurdy, Aug. 11; Jumpin’ Willys, Aug. 18; MSMT, Aug. 25; Miss Maybell & The Jazz Age Artistes, Sept. 1. 729-4439.

Old Orchard Beach

Old Vines Wine Bar, 173 Port Rd., Kennebunk. Fog Ave, Aug. 1. 967-2310. Opera House Arts, Stonington Ball Field, 40 School St. Shank Painters, Aug. 4; The Gawler Sisters, Aug. 11; Katie Zaffrann, Aug. 24. 367-2788.

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Opera House at Boothbay Harbor, 86 Townsend Ave. Antonio Lopez & Friends, Aug. 5; Mile Twelve, Aug. 7; Cattle Call, Aug. 13; Sons of Serendip, Aug. 14; John Gorka, Aug. 20; Peppino D’Agostino, Aug. 26; Dave Mallett, Aug. 28; Cantrip, Sept. 3; Richard Thompson, Sept. 4. 6335159. Oxbow Beer Garden, 420 Main St., Oxford. Lindsay Montana, Aug. 27; Beets & Grooves, Aug. 28. 539-5178. The Porthole, 20 Custom House Wharf. Quiet Riot Act, every Thu. through Sept. 2; Joan Kennedy Band, Jul. 25, Aug. 21; Ragged Jack, Jul. 30, Aug. 27; Vinyl Tap, Jul. 31, Aug. 29; Hello Newman, Aug. 1; Cryin’ Out Loud, Aug. 6; Something Stupid, Aug. 7; Fog Ave, Aug. 8; American Ride, Aug. 13; Stolen Mojo, Aug. 14; Bonnie & The Cats, Aug. 15; SugarBox, Aug. 20; Brazen Cane, Aug. 22; Slygo Road, Aug. 28. 773-4653.

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EXPERIENCE Portland Conservatory of Music, 202 Woodford St. Casco Bay Islands Concert Series: Maine Middle Eastern Ensemble at Cushing Island, Jul. 29; Fiddle & Piano music from Scotland and Cape Breton at Chebeague School, Aug. 5. 775-3356. Portland House of Music, 25 Temple St., Gina & The Red Eye Flight Crew, Jul. 26, Aug. 2, 16, 23, 30; The New Motif, Aug. 7; Amanda Tubbs & Friends: The Music of Lady Gaga, Aug. 13; Xander Nelson, Don’t Panic, & We Demand Parachutes, Aug. 14; Frederick Copeman, Sea Level, & Mosart212, Aug. 19; Hambone, Aug 20; Gorilla Finger, Aug. 21; Bad Combo, El Grande + Skosh, Aug. 27; Emo Night Portland, Aug. 28. 805-0134. Portland Lobster Company, 180 Commercial St. Elise Testone, Jul. 29; Elise Testone Duo, Vinyl Tap, Jul. 30; Scotti River Trio, Jul. 31; Mitch Alden, Dominic Lavoie, Aug. 1; Sam Shain & The Scolded Dogs, Aug. 2; Ryan Halliburton & The Grumps, Aug. 3. 775-2112. Portland Stage, 25 Forest Ave. Ring of Fire: The Music of Johnny Cash, Aug. 3–29. 774-0465. Rockport Marine Park. Jazz on the Water, Aug. 15. 236-2823. Rockport Opera House, 6 Central St. Envision Faculty Concert, Aug. 4; Envision Workshop Student Concert, Aug. 6; A Little Light Music, Aug. 12. 236-2823. Savage Oakes Vineyard & Winery, 175 Barrett Hill Rd., Union. One Longfellow Square presents Amy Helm, Aug. 15. 761-1757. Schoodic Arts, Gouldsboro Town Park, Prospect Harbor. Dirge City Pie Company, Jul. 30; Schoodic Summer Chorus, Aug. 2; Bruce Cassaday & The Jazz Collective, Aug. 5; Winter Harbor Music Festival Art Song Recital, Aug. 6; Gordon Thomas Ward: Songs & Stories, Aug. 7; Doc & Polly, Aug. 8; Colin Graebert & Stephanie Colavito, Aug. 10; Kat Logan, Aug. 11; The Milk & Honey Rebellion, Aug. 27. 963-2569. Seaside Pavilion, 8 6th St., Old Orchard Beach. Tapestry, The Carole King Songbook, Aug. 3; Legacy 5, Aug. 13. 934-2024. State Theatre, 609 Congress St. Melissa Etheridge, Aug. 31; Kesha, Sept. 4; Enter The Haggis, Sept. 8. 956-6000. Stone Mountain Arts Center, 695 Dugway Rd., Brownfield. Stone Mountain LIVE Booster Shot Show, Jul. 31; Rachael and Vilray, Aug. 6; Ruthie Foster, Aug. 7; John Gorka, Aug. 21; Roomful of Blues, Aug. 27; Richard Thompson, Sept. 1–2; Raul Malo, Sept. 3. 935-7292. Sun Tiki Studios, 375 Forest Ave., Grand ReOpening with theWORST ft. Dana Colley, Aug. 6; Cadaverette with A River of Trees, Aug. 7; Myles Bullen w/ Emma Ivy & Just Milk, Aug. 8; The Cups with The Furniture, Aug. 12; Superorder with Eliza & House of Devotion, Aug. 14; The Mal Thursday Quintet with Tiger Bomb, Aug. 19; Valley Maker with Tenci, Aug. 20; Draudiga Album Release with Video Nasties & Buzzy, Aug. 21; adlt grrrl with Lake Over Fire & Snake Lips, Aug. 27; Thems That Wait & VIQUEEN, Aug. 28. 329-5621. Thomas Point Beach, 29 Meadow Road, Brunswick. The Grateful Camp Out, Aug. 13–

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EXPERIENCE 15. 725-6009. Thompson’s Point, 5 Thompson’s Pt. Summer Sunsets Live, every Thu. and Fri.; Nathaniel Rateliff & The Night Sweats, Jul. 30; Brandi Carlile, Aug. 20; Lake Street Dive, Aug. 21; Jason Mraz, Aug. 24; Wilco & SleaterKinney, Aug. 25; 311 with Iration, Iya Terra, Aug. 26; St. Vincent, Sept. 3; Ghostland feat. The Ghost Of Paul Revere, Sept. 4. 747-5288. Topsham Public Library, 25 Foreside Rd. Matt Loosigian, Aug. 13. 725-1727. Vinegar Hill Music Theater, 53 Old Post Rd, Arundel. Edmund Bagnell, ‘He Plays The Violin,’ Aug. 6; Drive-Up Concert: Dar Williams, Aug. 7; Allan Harris’ Kate’s Soulfood, Aug. 12; Deep Blue “C” Studio Orchestra, Aug. 19; Jason Spooner Band, Aug. 20; Larry Gatlin, Aug. 26; Classic Rock Orchestra, Aug. 27. 985-5552. Waterfront Park, 61 Com-

mercial St., Bath. Cold Chocolate, Aug. 7; Renovators, Aug. 14; Squeezebox Stompers, Aug. 21; Pan Fried Steel, Aug. 28. 442-7291. Waterville Opera House, 1 Common St. Femmes of Rock, Aug. 27. 873-7000.

Joseph Delaney: Taking Notice, through Aug. 28; Carl Benton Straub: His Enduring Legacy, through Oct. 16. 786-6158.

Chris Fritz, Aug. 7; 6x10, Aug. 13; Jay Chanoine, Aug. 14; Janet McNamara, Aug. 28. maineeventcomedy.com. Deertrees Theater, 156 Deertrees Rd., Harrison. Christine Hurley & Lori McKenna, Jul. 30. 583-6747.

Bowdoin College Museum of Art, 245 Maine St., Brunswick. Virtual Family Saturday, Aug. 7; Laurel Nakadate, 365 Days: A Catalogue of Tears, through Aug. 15; Assyria to America, through Dec. 12; Transformations: New Acquisitions of Global Contemporary Art, Creeping Pavement: Depictions of an Urbanizing America, through Jan. 30, 2022. 725-3275.

Freedom Cafe, 923 Roosevelt Trail, Naples. Bob Marley, Aug. 4. 693-3700.

WW&F Railway, 97 Cross Rd., Alna. Music on the Railway, Aug. 21, Sept. 4. 882-4193.

RFA Lakeside Theater, 2493 Main St., Rangeley. Bob Marley, Aug. 15. 864-5000.

Comedy

Aura, 121 Center St. Maine Comedy All-Stars, Aug. 19. 772-8274. Carousel Music Theater, 196 Townsend Ave., Boothbay Harbor. The Maine Comedy All Stars Tour hosted by Ian Stuart, Jul. 31. 633-5297. Celebration Barn Theater, 190 Stock Farm Rd., South Paris. Mike Miclon’s The Early Evening Show, Aug. 14. 7438452. Craft Brew Underground, 34 Court St., Auburn. Johnny Friggin’ Ater ft. Maurice Smith & Kevin Neales, Jul. 31; Chris Post, ft. Cher Lynn &

Stonington Opera House, 1 Opera House Ln., Michel Lauzière, Aug. 18. 367-2788. Stroudwater Distillery, 4 Thompsons Pt., Comedy Night hosted by James Theberge & Ian Stuart, every Thu. 536-7811.

Brick Store Museum, 117 Main St., Kennebunk. Peggy Johnson: A Jeweler’s Life, through Aug. 1; The Art of Mending, through Aug. 31. 985-4802.

Art

Caldbeck Gallery, 12 Elm St., Rockland. Lois Dodd, Elizabeth O’Reilly, through August 14; Frederic Kellogg, Melanie Essex, through Aug. 16. 594-5935.

Abbe Museum, 26 Mount Desert St., Bar Harbor. Stitching Ourselves Together: Mi’kmaq Porcupine Quillwork, through Jan. 2023. 288-3519.

Center for Maine Contemporary Art, 21 Winter

Bates College Museum of Art, 75 Russell St., Lewiston.

St., Rockland. Concurrence, through Aug. 2, David Row: The Shape of Things, S.B. Walker: Nor’East, Will O’ The Wisp, Cherrie Yu, through Sept. 12. 701-5005. Colby College Museum of Art, 5600 Mayflower Hill Dr., Waterville. Inside Out: The Prints of Mary Cassatt, through Nov. 1; Bob Thompson: This House Is Mine, Jul. 20–Jan. 9, 2022. 859-5600. Cove Street Gallery, 71 Cove St. Worldwide, through Aug. 21; Kindred, through Sept. 4. 808-8911. Curtis Memorial Library, 23 Pleasant St., Brunswick. Summer Art Saturday, Aug. 21. 725-5242. Dowling Walsh Gallery, 365 Main St., Rockland. Alan Magee, Tessa Greene O’Brien, Marilynn Gelfman Karp, through Jul. 31; Kenneth Noland, through Aug. 28; Jordan Seaberry, Aug. 6–28; Sarah McRae Morton, Aug. 6–Sept. 25. 596-0084. Elizabeth Moss Galleries, 251 US-1, Falmouth. Maine

G Ii F fT t T Ii F t f Ii C A aT tE eS aV A s vA a Ii L lA aB bL lE e

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Call to receive a brochure 1-800-244-2335 | 207-827-2010 Cyr Northstar Tours’ Upcoming Tours CABBAGEDUCK BOSTON ISLAND TOUR CLAMBAKE & THE MUSEUM OF SCIENCE April18th, July 22, 2020 Aug.|1st $182pp , Aug. 22nd | $164 per person (During School Vacation!) ESCAPE TO MARGARITAVILLE at Ogunquit Playhouse QUINCY July 25, 2021 MARKET | $226 SHOPPING per person April 23, 2020 | $126pp ISLE OF SHOALS (Portsmouth, NH) PENN DUTCH August 3, 2021 | $156 per person (Lancaster, PA) May 12 – 16, 2020 | $1,097pp (dbl occupancy) EASTPORT SALMON FESTIVAL (Eastport, ME) ESCAPE TO 5, September THE 2021 CAPE | $175 per person (Cape Cod, MA) May 18 – 22, 2020 | $925pp (dbl Occupancy) MISS SAIGON (Hanover Theater, Worcester, MA) May 31, 2020 | $207pp

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BRANSON (Branson, MO) NEW YORK CITY June September 18 – 21, 9-20, 2020 2021 | $1,353pp | $3,109pp (dbl(dbl occupancy) occupancy)

OGUNQUIT NYC THANKSGIVING PLAYHOUSE (New (Ogunquit, York City,ME) NY) November July 12, 2020 24-28, | $215pp 2021 | $1,920pp (dbl occupancy)

GETTYSBURG ADIRONDACKS (Gettysburg, PA) September 12-16, | $1,800pp (dbl occupancy) June 22 – 26, 20202021 | $1,090pp (dbl occupancy)

CHRISTMAS NIAGARA FALLS IN STOWE VERMONT(Niagara Falls, (Stowe, Canada) VT) July 15 – 19, December 2-5, 2020 2021 | $1,474pp | $936pp (dbl Occupancy) occupancy)

COASTAL THE BIG “E” MAINE BOTANICAL GARDENS(Springfield, MA) June September 28, 2020 17-19, | $118pp 2021 | $645pp (dbl (Boothbay occupancy) Harbor, ME)

GARDENS NEW YORK’S AGLOW FINGER LAKES (Boothbay, ME) July 20 – 24, December 4, 2020 2021 | $1,366pp $124 per person (dbl occupancy)

ROYAL MT. WASHINGTON NOVA SCOTIA COG INTERNATIONAL RAILWAY TATTOO (Randolph, NH) MUSIC September FESTIVAL 21, 2021 | $194 per person (Halifax, NS, Canada) June 29 – July 3, 2020 | $1,968pp (dbl Occupancy)

NYC CHRISTMAS (New(Agawam, York City,MA) NY) SIX FLAGS NEW ENGLAND December | $971pp occupancy) August 8 – 10-12, 9, 20202021 | $385pp (dbl (dbl occupancy)

Masters of Modernism, through Aug. 20. 7812620. Farnsworth Art Museum, 16 Museum St., Rockland. George Tice and Andrew Wyeth: Parallel Visions, through Oct. 31; Robert Indiana: The Hartley Elegies, Transforming the Ordinary: Women in American Book Cover Design, Women of Vision, through Jan. 2, 2022; Betsy Wyeth: Partner and Muse, through Jan. 9, 2022; Betsy’s Gift: The Works of N.C., Andrew, and Jamie Wyeth, through Mar. 27, 2022. 596-6457. Gleason Fine Art, 31 Townsend Ave., Boothbay Harbor. Henry Isaacs: Near and Far, through Aug. 3; Michael Vermette: Fifty Plus One, Aug. 5–31; Roger Dale Brown: Around Town III, Aug. 26–Sept. 29. 633-6849. Greenhut Galleries, 146 Middle St. Colin Page, Maret Hensick, through Jul. 31; David Driskell: Icon, Aug. 5–28. 772-2693. Indigo Arts Alliance, 60 Cove St. African American Forms and Iconography Workshop, Aug. 21. indigoartsalliance.me.

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Kittery Art Association, 8 Coleman Ave. Members Best, Susan Goodby, through Aug. 8; Framed in Black, Betsy Wish, Aug. 12–Sept. 12. 451-9384.

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Kittery Community Center, Morgan Gallery, 120 Rogers Rd. Seacoast Moderns: Seeing and Affirming the Artist Within, through Aug. 19. 439-3800. KW Contemporary Art, 184 Port Rd., Kennebunk. Paul Villinski: Homeward, through Aug. 3; Jeremy Houghton: Over The Pond, Aug. 6– Sept. 1. 204-0480.

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86 P O R T L A N D MAGAZINE

EXPERIENCE Jack S. Ketchum Library, 11 Hills Beach Rd., Biddeford. String Revolution: Textiles and Visual Artifact, through Sept. 24. 602-3000.

Saturday, Sept. 4 7:30 p.m.

Lakeside Contemporary Art Gallery, 2493 Main St., Rangeley. David Wissman: A Step in Time: Through Woods and Water, through Jul. 28; Claudia Diller: Discovering Seasons in Maine, Jul. 30–Aug. 18; Kristin Horton, Aug. 20–Sept. 7. 864-5000. L.C. Bates Museum, 14 Easler Rd., Hinckley. Virtual summer exhibition: Marks and Tracks, through Sept. 3. 238-4250. Maine Art Hill, 10 Chase Hill Rd., Kennebunk. Bethany Harper Williams & David Witbeck, Jul. 24–Aug. 12; Craig Mooney & Margaret Gerding: Sky, Aug. 14–Sept. 2. 204-2042. Maine Historical Society, 489 Congress St. Begin Again: reckoning with intolerance in Maine, through Dec. 31. 774-1822. Maine Jewish Museum, 267 Congress St. Janis Goodman: Forces of Nature, Toby Gordon: A Sense of Place, Richard Wexler: Paris Street Dance, through Aug. 13. 773-2339. Maine Maritime Museum, 243 Washington St., Bath. Marine Debris: Effects on Seabird Island Habitats, Aug. 26; Sidney Chase’s Eye, through Sept. 5; Broadside: The Power of Print in the Maritime World, through Nov. 28; Percy & Small Shipyard, Sustaining Maine’s Waters, through Dec. 31.

$48 advance, $58 day-of-show camdenoperahouse.com 29 Elm Street, Camden (207) 236-3154

THEATER. FILM. MUSIC. DANCE. COMMUNITY. operahousearts.org

207-367-2788

Maine’s First Households

A life of your choosing. A home you love. If someone you love needs skilled nursing or memory care, make sure they have all the choices and comforts of home: private rooms, person-centered care, enriching programs, and a life filled with social connection, meaningful activities, and personal growth. See what makes a Household a true home at thecedarsportland.org/home or call 207.221.7000.

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Hiding in Maine. With Us.

EXPERIENCE 443-1316. MECA, 522 Congress St. DOUBLE TROUBLE, through Sept. 17. 699-5025. Messler Gallery, 25 Mill St., Rockport. New Work by Faculty, through Sept. 8. 594-5611. Ogunquit Museum of American Art, 543 Shore Rd. Alberto Rey: Life Streams, Art’s Ball: Wood Gaylor & American Modernism, 1913-1936, Jul. 30–Oct. 31; Totally Tuesday Talks: Alberto Rey, Aug. 3; Totally Tuesday Talks: Andrea Rosen, Aug. 10; 2021 Art By the Sea Auction, Aug. 21; Light Southerly: Henry Strater in Verde Valley, The View From Narrow Cove, Charles Woodbury: Open Studio, through Oct. 31. 646-4909. Portland Museum of Art, 7 Congress Sq. David Driskell: Icons of Nature and History, through Sept. 12; Richard Estes: Urban Landscapes, Small Wonders: Rethinking American Arts and Crafts, 18801920, through Nov. 28. 775-6148. Richard Boyd Art Gallery, 15 Epps St., Peaks Island. Contrasts, through Jul. 30; Jane Herbert, Aug. 1–30. 712-1097. River Arts, 241 US-1, Damariscotta. Members’ Show, through Aug. 17; Abstract, Aug. 11–Sept. 11. 563-1507. Scarborough Public Library, 48 Gorham Rd. Bicentennial Quilt Exhibit & Reception, Aug. 22. 883-4723.

“Death to the Dracu grandson!” In terror, Iordana Ceausescu of Romania disappeared in secret to Old Orchard Beach with her son while the world searched for them. She lived a buried life among us for five years. Drawn from 800 hours of unique interviews with Iordana. Colin W. Sargent’s Red Hands— “an astounding account of the Romanian revolution in the voice of Ceausescu’s daughter-in-law.” –Martin Goodman in the Morning Star “Brilliant. If the novel is Macbeth then it is Romeo and Juliet too, for the pounding heart of the book is a great love story that never fails to move. A tale from last century and a warning for this one, Red Hands is a novel of rare power that teaches us much about Romania and even more about ourselves.” –D. D. Johnston

COMING FEBRUARY

2022

BA R B I CA N PR E SS. CO M/ B O O K/RED- HANDS/ 88 P O R T L A N D MAGAZINE

Sieur De Monts Field, Acadia National Park. Cultural Connections in the Park: Sarah Sockbeson with a basketmaking demonstration, Jul. 29. 288-3519. Studio 53, 53 Townsend Ave., Boothbay Harbor. David Estey, Jack Silverio, through Aug. 1; Tony van Hasselt, A.W.S., Aug. 2–29. 633-2755. University of Maine Museum of Art, 40 Harlow St., Bangor. Pop Art & Influence, Living Windows, Thomas Cornell: A Vision Accomplished, Amy Stein: Domesticated, through Aug. 7. 581-3300. University of New England Museum of Art, 2693, 716 Stevens Ave. Recent Acquisitions in Photography curated by Stephen Halpert, through Oct. 10. 221-4449.

Don’t Miss Bicentennial Parade, Auburn-Lewiston. Celebrating Maine’s people, culture, landmarks, & history with floats, bands, & participants from across the state, Aug. 21. maine200.org. Buxton Community Parade, Main St., to Route 112, to Woodman Rd. This year’s theme is “Everything Maine” to uplift the state in honor of the bicentennial, Aug. 7. 929-6171. Cruise-In Night, St. John’s Community Center, 43 Pleasant St., Brunswick. A night of antique cars, music, concessions, & raffle. Aug. 6 & 20. 443-3423. Drag Bingo Fundraiser, 156 Deertrees Rd., Harrison. Fundraiser with the Sisters of Perpetual Indulgence to support the Harrison Food Bank, Aug. 28. 583-6747. Fresh Air Yoga, Payson Park, Longfellow Arboretum. Outdoor yoga classes for all levels, Aug. 4, Sept. 1. ashleyflowersyoga.com.

MAINE STATE MUSIC THEATRE at Westbrook Performing Arts Center

SEPT 1 - 19 207-725-8769

SEPT 29 - 0CT 17 MSMT.ORG

OCT 19 - 23

471 STROUDWATER ST., WESTBROOK, ME 04092

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EXPERIENCE

Authentic Thai Cooking

865-6005

Dine In • Take-Out Open 7 Days A Week Lunch & Dinner • Beer & Wine Monday–Saturday 11am–9pm Sunday 4pm–9pm

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Les Petits Déjeuners de l’Été, The Language Exchange, 75 Market St. Breakfast gathering open to all for conversational French language practice. Registration is required, Aug. 6 & 27. immersionprograms.com. Maine Made Market, Naval Aviation Museum, 179 Admiral Fitch Av., Brunswick. Pop-up market including Maine Made Photos, Dust of the Earth Pottery, Fresh Harvest in a Jar, Herbage by BEX, Bruce Creek Gourmet Dips, and Chickadee Crafting, Jul. 31. brunswickdowntown.org. Old Port Historic Workouts, Monument Square. Ninety- minute workout designed for all fitness levels while learning the history of the Old Port from 1632 to present, Jul. 31. historicworkouts.com. Ride the Rails to Hike the Trails, WW&F Railway, 97 Cross Rd., Alna. Ride the railway from Sheepscot station to Trout Brook Preserve & enjoy a guided hike 1.5hr guided hike, Aug. 28. 882-4193. Summer Après Series, Sugarloaf Resort, 5092 Sugarloaf Access Rd., Carrabassett Valley. Live outdoor music with featured micro-breweries: Marshall Nelson Trio, Geary Brewing, Aug 13; Catcha Vibe, Mast Landing Brewing, Aug. 27; Jason Spooner Band, Orono Brewing, Sept. 10. sugarloaf.com. —Compiled by Sofia Voltin.

491 US Route One, Freeport, Maine 1/2 mile south of Exit 20 (Across from Comfort Suite)

To submit your own event listing, visit: portlandmonthly.com/portmag/submit-an-event/

M A I N E S TAT E P R I S O N S H O W R O O M Craftsmen Rebuilding Their Lives — Since 1824

QUALITY HANDCRAFTED FURNITURE, TOYS, ARTS & CRAFTS 358 Main Street (Route 1), Thomaston, Maine 04861 · 207-354-9237 · Open Daily, 9 a.m.–4 p.m. · On Facebook at MSPShowroom For an exciting and rewarding career in corrections contact, by phone call or text, the Maine State Prison at (207) 816-1173. 90 P O R T L A N D MAGAZINE

TICKETS ON SALE NOW! JUN 16 - JUL 10

JUL 14 - AUG 28

SEP 1 - OCT 2

OCT 6 - OCT 31

It’s THE BIGGEST BACKYARD BASH in SEACOAST HISTORY and YOU’RE INVITED! Ogunquit Playhouse heads outside, under the stars, beneath a new 25,000 square foot, socially distanced, open air pavilion for a Summer filled with music and laughter. It’s a menu featuring cheeseburgers in paradise, mystic pizza, and spam! And we close it all out with a roll in the hay! What more could you ask for?

OgunquitPlayhouse.org 207.646.5511 Rte 1 Ogunquit, ME

Celebrating 21 Years as Midcoast Maine’s Premier Cookware Store Located in Historic Downtown Bath, Maine acooksemporium.com | 207–443–1402

“THIS IS WHAT WE CAME TO MAINE FOR.” Experience Maine’s maritime culture – 20 acres of open space to explore.

Maine MaritiMe MuseuM 243 Washington Street

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Bath, Maine

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207-443-1316

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www.MaineMaritimeMuseum.org

Mediterranean Maine The Pink Palace, Castine’s whimsical 1924 relic, is for sale for $849K.

B Y COLIN W. SARG EN T

n 1924, Miss E. K. Branch, a banking heiress from Richmond, Virginia, hired William Lawrence Bottomley, famous in her city, to design a summer place at 65 Battle Avenue in Castine. Soaring above Penobscot Bay, Bottomley’s Mediterranean-style mansion

is lively, louche, and still an exclamation point among the fir trees and Colonial landmarks in this town. In its early days it was decked out in a shade of salmon so lively that passing

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Real estate sales and vacation rentals since 1898

Book your autumn vacation in Maine and fall in love all over again! From hiking to sailing, reading by the fire to enjoying warm nights on the deck, Knowles has a rental to suit all your vacation wishes. Call one of our knowledgeable agents today!

1 Summit Road Northeast Harbor, ME 207-276-3322 info@KnowlesCo.com

www.KnowlesCo.com

TALKING WALLS

DEAN TYLER PHOTOGRAPHY

yachts used the beloved Pink Palace landmark as an aid to navigation.

ffie Branch brought her southern servants here and exulted in the ocean breezes of this colorful retreat. Her salons featured musical performances and dramatic readings led by Pulitzer Prizewinning novelist Ellen Glasgow, a fellow Richmond native, lifelong friend, and devotee of Bottomley’s divine designs. (Rich-

mond still celebrates New Yorker Bottomley’s brick creations along Monument Avenue, a landmark architectural district that today is thankfully not so monumental since statues of Stonewall Jackson and Jefferson Davis were removed amid civil unrest following the murder of George Floyd in 2020.) Glasgow visited the Mediterranean villa Effie named “The Play-House” countless times. In the summer of 1942, after John

Huston directed In This Our Life, based on Glasgow’s scathing 1941 novel of the same name, Glasgow’s celebrity put a magnifying glass on this house, her touchstone in Maine. The movie still holds up, and what a cast: Bette Davis as the narcissistic sociopath Stanley, Olivia DeHavilland as her sweet sister, and George Brent in a tugof-war between them. When the best-selling author fell hard enough for Castine to take up a nearby summer cottage herself, the social temperature of the town (an historical blend of Penobscots, French settlers dating to 1613, British invaders, and American rusticators) shifted a jot to include the Richmond contingent. J U LY / A U G U S T 2 0 2 1 9 7

lasgow had her own name for her friend’s cool house: “The Friendly Folk Visitor Center.” Glasgow published twenty novels before she died in 1945; presumably a lot of them were read in here. What a setting for dramatic readings! The gothic vaults of the library’s ceiling glow with panels that suggest southern Italy. With views down lupine slopes and across the vast Penobscot River all the way to Fort Point Lighthouse off Stockton Springs, you’re eavesdropping on Eternity.

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DEAN TYLER PHOTOGRAPHY (3)

Pulitzer winner Ellen Glasgow

opening to the terraced dawn.” Worth more than a mention was the “hall floor… of small cork tiles, dark and light, beautifully worn, and polished to the appearance of stone.” In the library he admired the “gothic hooded fireplace, and bookcases set in carved limestone arches. Perhaps best of all is the tower room at the top of the house, reached by a winding, arched corridor…for views in all directions.” Emerson chatted with owner Sylvia Carter, who ten years later is the seller today. When we drove here from Portland, a doe and two fawns passed right in front of us, heading down to the river for a drink. IDEAL GUEST RETREAT When our contributor Brad Emerson visit-

ed and described the house for us in “Sunrise Boulevard” (July/August 2011), he was dazzled by the drawing room, “used by Miss Branch for musicales, [with] 12-foot beamed ceilings and tall, leaded windows—some with pale lavender panes—

TO LIVE AND LOVE ’m originally from London—Kent, really.” She and her husband, the late Bill Carter, a retired chemical engineer, had moved here from Houston for a blast of cool air. Mission accomplished! Bill

“I

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was handy. He “retiled the bathrooms himself and—after sobering, first-winter heating bills—built storm windows for the multitudes of differently shaped windows.” And repaired the leaded-glass windows where local kids had used the house as target practice for BB guns.

hough chez Carter had been whitewashed years before the couple took up residence, the locals still called it the “Pink Palace,” Emerson noted—like something out of Nathaniel Hawthorne.

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DEAN TYLER PHOTOGRAPHY; STAFF PHOTOS (2)

TALKING WALLS

It was clearly a loving retirement, and Sylvia chokes up when she recalls losing her dear husband last fall to sepsis. “In twelve days in the hospital he was gone. My heart is broken.” Not only was Bill her emotional rock, he chopped the wood, kept the house in good nick, and celebrated its beauty with her. Answered her call. Noticed things.

She takes us through the house. On a table we see Ken Follett’s The Pillars of the Earth. Both she and her husband read it. Sylvia’s also read up on Effie Branch, and when we ask if Effie were resolutely unmarried, she says, “Yes.” “Where will you go now?” “My daughter works in England for

Boeing. She wants me to go there. My son’s an artist. He wants me to go to Florida with him.” When we approach the kitchen, she shows us the two pantries. “This is the butler’s pantry, and I call that one the larder.”

hen you miss the person you love, everywhere is a lonely place. “I’ve had insomnia,” she says. “I walk around at 2 a.m. through the rooms of this house with a cup of coffee in my hands. I rent out our guest house to a minister who just lost his wife. One J U LY / A U G U S T 2 0 2 1 1 0 1

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93 c. 1

65 BATTLE AVENUE CASTINE, ME LISTED BY HANK DE RAAT MLS# 1476937

11 MAIN STREET CASTINE, MAINE 04421-0329 OFFICE 207 326 8448 MOBILE 207 669 2001

For Men, Women & Children (800)414-5144 BOOTHBAY HARBOR 20 Townsend Avenue CAMDEN 32 Main Street

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timeless style for coastal living

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time I happened to look out the window by chance just as he looked out his window toward the main house, and we saw each other, each carrying a cup of coffee.” During our tour, we can hear unmistakably the sound of bells ringing through the mist. Is it a bell buoy? If so, what’s its name? She looks sadly out to sea. “There are two bell buoys out there.” n

DEAN TYLER PHOTOGRAPHY (2); STAFF PHOTO

Est.

Newly Built Waterfront Home Marshall Point, Kennebunkport Project Management | New Construction | Renovations Duncan MacDougall, President 207-232-4991 | coastalcreationsmaine@gmail.com www.coastalcreationsmaine.com

Homes & Living Kelly Wentworth-Lowe Sales Manager Freeport, Maine (207) 831-4934 kelly@kellywentworth.com Gilbert D. (Specs) Eaton III (207) 491-5150 specseaton@gmail.com

Kelly Wentworth-Lowe Sales Manager (207) 831-4934 kelly@kellywentworth.com

Freeport - Building Lot Millinocket – Year Round Home Island Falls – Waterfront Lot This 50 x 50 lot is in the VC zone (VilSweeping views of the Katahdin Range Pleasant Lake 1.7 acre lot with 152-feet lage/Commercial). There are several on the shores of South Twin Lake. of pristine clear spring fed waterfront upgrades to the lot; foundation, garage MLS#1312731 Private sandy beach with over 250’ feet on Pleasant Lake. Over 1800 acres #1406473 (Land) MLS#1406283 (Land & House) pad,36), power, sewerCommons, and water are in of crystal clear water front. with a depth of 60” and home to many sewood Lane (Lot Cobb Bridge 33 Bluff Head Rd, Chebeague Island,The ME cottage Gloucester, ME place. A home design has been created offers an open floor plan on the first types of fish. Year round adventure for Bridge Commons is an upscale community close to a Beaches, Views! Cottage sited atop Bluff Head by Waltman Architectural. Create floor Mooring, with twoand bedrooms and two baths all—swimming, kayaking, fishing, ATV, wick, L/A and Portland. The subdivision offers privacy, Rock outcropping. Motivated seller, recent favorable interest unique living style (condo living) without on the second fl oor. One side of the snowmobiling and more. ng trail to the Royal River and is close to Fox Ridge Golf rates, and charming location make this sweet spot worth strong associated Located on Morse cottage has a three season room and $250,000 e. The land is the listed for $59,900fees. or with a new home for consideration. $449,500 Street, you can walk to Main Street on the lake side a covered porch. 900 for shopping, theater, dining, schools $395,000 BHH Affiliates, LLC. An Independently owned the and operated BHH Affiliates, LLC. Berkshire Hathaway HomeServices and the Berkshire Hathaway HomeServices symbol and parks and Bow franchisee Street of Market. are registered service marks of HomeServices of America, Inc. Equal Housing Opportunity. $195,000 ®

©2018 BHH Afﬁliates, LLC. An Independently owned and operated franchisee of BHH Afﬁliates, LLC. Berkshire Hathaway HomeServices and the Berkshire Hathaway HomeServices symbol are registered service marks of HomeServices of America, Inc.® Equal Housing Opportunity.

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SANDY RIVER PLT RANGELEY RANGELEY PLANTATiON

Caryn Dreyfuss Broker

Wooded 3 AcreViews Parcel w/Frontage on Old Greene Million Dollar From This Hillside Lot in GREAT HOME, GREAT LOCATION! Lodge Style Rd. Building Site Surveyed. Desirable Subdivision! 1.8 Acre 3BRSeveral HomeRangeley with LightWest FilledOptions, Great Room, Professional Deeded Access to Beaver Mt Trail Lake ViaGarage, Walking Parcel Snowmobile Access, Minutes Kitchen,w/Direct Master Suite. Attached 4-Car Path. Nice ATV/Snowmobile Year-Round CloseYour to Rangeley, to Oquossoc Amenities.Spot Abutting Lot Also Generator, from Door,Available All on 10 Saddleback. $79,000 For Purchase. $115,000 for each Acres. $425,000

RANGELEY SAddLEBAcK quiMBY PONd iS BAcK! Super Mountainside Rock Pond Condo is1BR Ready for YourLoaded Immediate Enjoyment! Beautifully On a Clear Day on YouQuimby Can See Forever! Enjoy theCottage Westerly Viewsw/North Overlooking Rangeley Lake, SUPER SWEET Pond! Seasonal Woods Charm OffersSunsets ComfortAppointed 2BA with2BA, Sun Filled Floor Living Plan, Mt./Saddleback Lake Views.Lawn Plus Rangeley LakeLakew/ and 3BR, Sun Filled Spaces, Attached Garage. Deeded Rangeley ableBeyond. Living3BR, AllFeaturing on OneUnit Level! Fabulous Pond/Mt Views, Spacious Deck. Level to 100’ Frontage Resort Time Share Week Included. $329,000 Water Dock. Access. Peaceful,$599,000 Quiet Setting. $245,000

RANGELEY SANdY THE LOdGES RivER PLT

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(207) 233-8275

caryndreyfuss@morton-furbish.com

AZIZCOHOS LAKE MAGALLOWAY OquOSSOc PLT

2478 Main Street • P.O. Box 1209 Rangeley, Maine 04970 www.realestateinrangeley.com Great Lot, Pemaquid Trail Well Wooded 2+Location! Acre Rangeley Parcel Offers Potential Savor the Great Panoramic Lake and Lot Sunset #5, Surveyed, Soils Super Spot Off the Views of Beaver Mt Tested. Lake! Several Possible BuildViews From This Gently Used 4BR, 2BA Condo. Beaten andTri-Level Yet From. Close tow/Spacious All Town Amenities, ing SitesPath To Choose Directly Across Well-Appointed UnitLocated Open Saddleback. Snowmobile Friendly, ITS1-Car Trail Garage, the Street From Deeded Lake Access w/Small Living Spaces, Easy Sled Trail Access, Access. $62,000 Boat Furnished. Launch. $95,000 Sold $319,000

Enjoy Year-Round Living onHome Tranquil, No-Motors Wooded, 1 Acre Building Lotw/ in 2BR, Private/Quiet Neat as aLevel Pin Ranch Style Quimby Nice Sized 4BR, Car 2BAfor Log Home, Setting. Pond! NiceFloor Spot Ideally Located 4-season Comfortable Plan, Covered Port, Metal Roof, Private Location, SandyRoomy Waterfront, Detached Adventures, Saddleback LakeFarmers & Saddleback Mt. On-Demand Generator. Porch, Quiet Garage. Spacious Screened Porch Short with Pond/Mt are Nearby. Snowmobile Friendly, Drive to Country Setting, Close to No-Motors Quimby Pond. Views. Legendary Trout Fishing. $549,900 Rangeley Amenities. $40,000 $239,000

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Remote Hunting/Fishing Camp onand Owned Land Tucked Away Off theLog-Sided Beaten Path Yet Handy Beautifully Crafted Chalet w/ 3-BR, w/100’ Sandy Open Frontage. 2BR with To Everything! Generous 7 Acre Wood in Quiet Cook’s Kitchen, FloorOff-Grid Plan. Sited on Camp 9Lot Private Gas Appliances/Lights, Wall To Heaters, Setting. Build Here andtoEmpire BePond Minutes Public Out Boat Acres w/Deeded Access Brook. Fish/Paddle House. Awesome Spot to Get Away From it All.Pond. Ramps, Oquossoc Amenities. $62,000 the Magalloway River, Umbagog Lake, Sturtevant $178,500 $282,500

Homes & Living

John Hatcher A House SOLD Name ® (207)775-2121

www.thgmaine.com

Portland West End $1,395,000 5 Bed | 3.5 Bath

Portland West End $399,000 2 Bed | 2 Bath

Portland New Construction Condo $445,000 1 Bed | 1 Bath

Saco Renovated Condo $359,000 3 Bed | 2.5 Bath John Hatcher • The Hatcher Group 6 Deering Street, Portland, Maine 04101 207-775-2121 • jhatcher@kw.com www.thgmaine.com • www.218washington.com

J U LY / A U G U S T 2 0 2 1 1 0 5

Homes & Living

The right real estate agent makes all the difference!

It would be my honor to help you buy or sell your home.

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The Ofﬁcial Real Estate Company of the Boston Bruins

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Assisting people buy and sell properties in the beautiful Western mountains of Maine since 1985

Enjoy Maine’s Vacation-land!

New Portland. Middle Road. Remarkable 4-generation estate for sale in the heart of the Western Maine Mountains. House and barn have been meticulously cared for throughout the many, Beautiful mountains many yearswestern this family has owned it. 112 acres of pristine woods of Maine. Cape on 80 acres and fields with an apple tree or two. This homestead is waiting of forest! Dead end forﬁaelds newand family to embrace. 3 working fireplaces. 30 minutes to road in Salem Township. Fish to Hatchery Rd. Fireplace. 3 bed, Sugarloaf Ski Resort and close many lakes, streams and trails. 2 baths plus additional large sunroom. Garage and building/ $450,000. MLS 1497089

workshop. Fruit trees and berry bushes. $395,000 259 MAIN STREET, KINGFIELD 259 MAIN STREET,|KINGFIELD CSMREALESTATE.COM 207-265-4000 CSMREALESTATE.COM | 207-265-4000 JANET@CSMREALESTATE.COM

Homes & Living

Melissa Proper

11 Angelwood Rd, Standish, Maine A Beautiful 8-acre Lot in a wellmaintained Subdivision in Standish. Property is very private at the end of a dead-end road, Fantastic opportunity to build your dream home in this neighborhood— There is a possibility for a double lot, or plenty of acreage for a Large single family home with an in-law apartment. Standish Residents have access to Sebago lake.

Broker/Owner

(207) 749-4299 propergroupforme@gmail.com

Specializing in Residential, Commercial & Investment Properties

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Rocks Beach! Relax and unwind at this picture-perfect oasis. Located at the end of a private road sits this modern farmhouse with beautiful tidal views of marshlands and open ocean. Features a 'post and beam' style, this exquisite property offers an open floor plan, ideal for family gatherings and endless entertaining.

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192 Biddeford Rd. • Alfred, Maine Manufactured in Alfred, ME

www.Morton-Furbish.com James L. Eastlack, Owner Broker 207-864-5777 or 207-670-5058 | JLEastlack@gmail.com

SPRING LAKE – Escape to–nature andLAKE a wonderful 1322 Main Street – BEAVER parkwaterfront likePine, setting, RANGELEY LAKE VIEWS 100MTN. Proctor Rd –- AShadow a property on a great remote body of water. Off grid w/generator, extremely private location, 3 beds, 2.5 baths, 596 feet of one of a kind property with 48.32 acres, Saddleback Mtn Views, year roundLake building, detached garage, fish, enjoyaddition all Rangeley Views, 6 beds,detached 6 baths,Ice5+ carhunt, garages, waterfront, attached garage, garage, potential 40 acres available for purchase! $1,495,000. seasons! $495,000. guest cottage. $775,000.

RANGELEY LAKE –Spring Lakeside Marina &AConvenience Wonderful 20 VistaLAKE Lane LAKE rare offering, SPRING –– 6RANGELEY Lake Rd -–Escape to nature- the andBuena a business opportuinty in downtown commercial zoning, Vista Estate on 567 feet of deep water frontage,53 private acres wonderful waterfront property on a great remote body convenience of water. store, 25w/generator, boat slips, gas, rental business, great waterfront Off grid yearboat round building, detached garage, Ice w/south facing exposure, total privacy, development potential. fish, hunt,$965,000. enjoy all seasons! $495,000. location! $2,650,000.

631 Bald Mtn. Road –Located MOOSELOOK LAKE – A commercial rare offering, PINE GROVE LANE the village with expansive RANGELEY LAKE – –2582 Mainclose St - to Wonderful 4southwest bed, 4.5 bath contemporary lakefront home w/beach, detached views of Rangeley Lake, 4 beds, 3.5 baths, very close business on Main Street w/ 105' on Rangeley Lake, Marina/ garage AND private island w/2 bedroom cottage, to Saddleback Ski Area, andguest ATV from your 3.56 doorstep, Convenience Store, 25+snowmobile Slips, Gas, Shop, Downtown Commercial Zoning, High Traffic Location, $965,000. Acres! $1,899,000. heated garage! $639,000.

277 Stephens Road – MOOSELOOK LAKE-–4West facing PROCTOR ROAD –VIEWS Gorgeous overlooking Rangeley Lake RANGELEY LAKE – 21VIEWS Pine Grove Beds, 3.5 Baths, Sandy Beach frontage, 4 bed, 3 bath home w/attached 3 car and Saddleback Ski Area, wonderful estate property located just Fully Furnished, SW facing views w/LOTS of sun, Snowmobile heated and detached 3Detached car garage w/large bonus room!w/ outside the Rangeley village, 48.32 Acres,4 bed,4.5 bath home and ATVgarage from your doorstep, 32x32 garage fully heated, a must $1,495,000. see! $639,000. $850,000. guest quarters.

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United Realty realty

FRAN fran RILEY, rileY, GRI Gri BROKER BroKer

Homes & Living ROLANDlittlefield LITTLEFIELD roland BROKER BroKer

307 307 Belmont Belmont Ave. ave. •• Belfast, Belfast, ME Me 04915 04915 207-338-6000 • UnitedRealtyME.com 207-338-6000 • UnitedrealtyMe.com

Please visit visit our our website website for for virtual virtual tours tours on on our our listings listings and and access access to to ALL ALL Maine Maine Real Real Estate! Estate! Please Belfast

swan lake

SWANVILLE: swan lake

179 nortHPort aVe, Belfast Here is your Maine Dream Home with all on the2.5 swanville Notably one of THE most reswanville Lovely Ranch home The Nesmith-Read House • $350,000 acreage and fields to w/ enjoy gardening &many markable properties on this desirable lake! Acres 515’your shorefront featuring Located close to Belfast’s downtown and waterfront, this historical Circa Custom built w/3314 sq.ft., Cathedral ceilupdates including new kitchen, waterhorses. This immaculate home boasts room for 1783 Cape is within walking distance to hospital, oceanfront parks and ing in Great Room will awe you. Access to front deck, ooring, interior everyone and satisfies theflneeded spacepainting, for your waterfront. Front parlor and living room are adorned with fireplaces, a Waterfront deck from both levels & garage. paved drive, and more. 1500 sq. ft on office, family, learning, playing and more. Locatformal dining room off custom designed kitchen featuring ins, and dock for the 1.5 Acresgranite, w/ 285’built frontage one floor. Expansion possible to full 2nd & woodstove; an office/family room with entranceboats! to studio, currently used ed only 10 minutes downtown Belfast and all Expansion Possible. floor;todouble lot! sWan laKe sWanVille as a custom, interiorWinterPort design studio. the amenities the MidBelfast Coast Community Mls: 1304620 | $529,900 Mls: 1287308 | $299,900 offers. With 9 rooms, 3 baths, building flexiblethe floor plan, and zoning allows Lake House was built in 1999. Interior adorned This Year-Round Contemporary featuring bedrooms and 2 baths Nestled at the end of Pleasant St,offers overlooking Penobscot gorgeous home property sits3on a remarkable 29 administrative center,this professional, clinical officefeatures space, uses are endless. with wide spruce & yellow pine. Living room & kitchen with modern decorof throughout. w/ with 200’ waterfront, 4 bdrm, 2.5 bath home plus acres, many it fields,Well-appointed making thiskitchen property Renovated 2009 with attention to maintaindeck the original this historic house, theopen charm adorn every open flofoor plan; French Doors to and a 1stwarmth floor bedroom or breakfast bar; open to dining which in turn opens to the rear, lovely openinfloor plan with accessgiven to wrap-around from details possible for your equestrian farm. Ocean Views, room. room Commercial, ADA accessible Utilities, Central Mls# 1446059 ce; master suite on upper level. Beautiful views. Walkout private deck. Master En-Suite w/private bath. Attached 2-car living and sunroom. Vistas willw/City awe you. Detached 4 AC.offi 10garage. Rms, Downstairs 4 BDRMS 3 BATHS: $500,000 More Be agarage part ofw/loft. its history, one of Belfast’spaved oldest, existing houses, The Nesmith-Read House. $350,000 basement. 110’ waterfront, beach & dock. Rec room over media room. Mls:1410884 $275,000 bay Property is fenced, drive, sea wall; land available garage. Mls:1359899 $499,900 impeccable inside and out. Mls:1412774 $399,900

SWAN LAKE: EAST SIDE LAKE HOUSE Belfast Belfast stockton spring - ocean BelfastCross Pond, Morrill Penobscot Bay Belfast Room for the entire family and all the friends Beautifully Restored New England Cape on PitcherfeaRd in Serenity, Peace, and Tranquility on Cross Pond in Morrill… Belfast Sea Captain’s Home that has been impeccably that visit is afforded with this property, Built in 2003, nothing spared here folks! Custom built 3/2 home features intricate Belfast Commanding views across Only 2 miles to downtown, this lovely Belfast. Sunny & open 1stevery floor laKe w/spacious kitchendetails featuring describes thiswood amazing property. Nestled in the middle of a this Contemporary, maintained and home updated. Walking distance to downtown Belfast sWan Captivating views from room, throughout. Lovely floors, Penobscot Bay from has an updated kitchen, fireplace Belfast turing 10 rooms and 4 baths inwrap2 units. Situgranite counter tops, stainless appliances & top of the line spacious 5+ Acres, this home is like none you will find. Chef’s Belfast and also to the Belfast Harbor Walk and Rail Trail. around deck, lower level patio, Room Swan seasonal views and3 easy access on only 5only miles to downtown Belfast waterin living, open porch. Most recently Attention Equestrians! Near downtown, home featuresoper8 Spacious 4abedroom 3 bath home on Beautiful Lake water Beautiful ated on spacious 430’ +/-Great lakefront. Beautibedroom 2 bathroom condo 2 miles to cabinetry. Slider leads to new deck that wraps around to the kitchen, Living rm & dining featuresfront. gas fireplace; den w/ this 1624Great Room/studio with separate entrances ideal as home w/fi replace, Master En-Suite w/fi replace & the Rail Trail which leads to the Belfast Built in 2005, sq. ft home ated as a business, located on U.S. Rt. 1 rooms, spacious kitchen w/island, family room overlookw/over 700’ shared water front to access for your boating, downtown waterfront! Located within a 46 unit complex ful views, sunsets will awe you;180 degree rear overlooking theroom lovely & with gardens. Living, dinoffice,every professional, clinical,ideal spa unit. Formal dining and living woodstove. Wrap-around deck w/hot tub. Master bdrm jetted tub, family onapple lowertrees level Waterfront. facing screened porch features access to features oceanfront from makes home office, accounting, ing private 14.46 acres,this pastures for horses. Horse barn w/ swimming and fiyear shing round enjoyment. 3 flhouse,on oors of living. Master Water spread over 44 acres with walking paths. Lovely, spacious views. lake ing, den &1st bdrm, laundry & full bath all onthis 1st floor. 3 deck. rooms, spaciouslegal kitchen with tin ceilings, private bath.SEE! Central Air, full house generator, outdoor shower, walkout toThis thefloor shore! and spacious Must room! City utilities, private development. or medical facility. This is the dream electric & water opens to paddock area. Mls:1401830 on 1st fl oor. Lovely views. Make this your summer or yeardeck. Master w/private bath. Maintenance-free living 4-season is$349,900 waiting for barn you.ideal $749,900 rooms & fulllake bath |up. Large 2-story for shop/home Mls: 1302727 Mls:1295111 Brazilian | $229,900 Enjoy lobster bakes on your own beach! Mls: 1290995 $254,900 home you’ve been searching near|Belfast Proper. $374,900 hardwood decking, dry basement, det. 2-car garage, round home. Mls:1410836 $394,900 business. 3 miles to downtown waterfront. $429,900

only $269,900 included in price. Mls:1405561 $139,900 Mls: 1283853 |$495,000 $549,900 FULLY FURNISHED HOME. 284’ WATERFRONT

Noyes Real Estate Agency M a i n e R e a l E s tat e Sp e c i a l i s t s Rangeley — Kennebunkport

Spacious 5 Bed, 4 Bath waterfront home located at the end of the Kennebunk River with breathtaking views of the Atlantic Ocean and amazing sunsets. Great little beach area, perfect home for entertaining and family, gourmet kitchen with wet bar, screen porch, deck on ﬁrst and second level, outdoor ﬁre pit. Walk to restaurants, shops, marinas and beaches. Excellent rental history. MLS # 1486587

Jamie Mandell 508-667-6967 jamie@noyesrealty.com

2388 Main Street, Rangeley, Maine 04970 | 207-864-9000 w w w. N o y e s R e a lt y. c o m J U LY / A U G U S T 2 0 2 1 1 0 9

MAKE THIS THE YEAR YOU STOP STRUGGLING WITH ADDICTION McLean’s Borden Cottage offers world-class drug and alcohol treatment in a comfortable, private location in Camden, Maine. Comprehensive care is specifically tailored for each patient to help them take control of both their addiction and underlying diagnoses such as anxiety, depression, and trauma. Individual and group treatment is offered by Harvard Medical School-affiliated clinicians who are experts in helping people regain control over their lives. To learn more about Borden Cottage’s compassionate, evidence-based care or to begin recovery, contact us today.

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L AST WO R DS Embracing Solitude (continued from page 112)

Within two minutes there was only the sound of the narrow stream doubling as the path into the preserve tick-tick-ticking through the stones beneath our feet. With the faded dabs of paint on the gnarled trees guiding us, the pleasure was largely in the walk itself: navigating around twisted roots and mossy boulders; starting at the sudden skitter of a red squirrel across a tree trunk; glimpsing an eagle gliding sideways between the lines of pine trees; and in breathing the deep, earthy scent of peat and balsam.

he reward of such a walk emerged earlier than expected, halfway to its Atlantic close: a mammoth granite summit, a ledge as broad as a grand ship’s deck, laced with impossible greenery. The early afternoon sun hit our faces as we stepped out of the darkness and up onto the granite expanse. We were no more than a few miles from civilization, yet at nearly the easternmost island off the Maine coast, we might have just discovered this place. n

Sky Lodge

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J U LY / A U G U S T 2 0 2 1 1 1 1

LA ST WORDS

Embracing Solitude

e’d noted the creeping sensation on the drive up the coast. And it was embarrassing. Taking Route 1 from Portland, we’d wound through a string of peaceful Mid-Coast Maine fishing villages, stopping with the other tourists for the occasional stretch or harbor view. But by late afternoon, just past Ellsworth’s strip of cheesy box stores (like monuments of Home, from which we were escaping), we kept driving. Within two minutes, traffic receding in the rearview mirror, civilization suddenly evaporated. Maybe towns existed nearby, as the thin, potholed strip of roadway that extended infinitely ahead to a hidden horizon point of deep, dark, tangled forest implied, but this was only a guess. Thirty minutes past Bar Harbor, the 1958 Plymouth Fury that had been maintaining a steady distance behind us for miles slunk, hunched and predator-like, hugging the roadway, into the oncoming lane and slowly, slowly, slowwwwly crept past us. The car looked exactly like Stephen King’s Christine, the only difference being (we were unable to resist a quick sideways glance) its tinted windows. The Fury pulled a vintage Airstream trailer, dirty and dented, like something a serial killer might use to transport dead city folk to the woods. On our sunshiny streets back home, we would have revelled in such a spectacle. Now, however, the Fury towing all that weight could pass us easily because we’d been driving at a crawl for 30 minutes. We’d been looking for—and for months had been anticipating—solitude. But. With comprehensive solitude pressing in on all sides,

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were we, in fact, traveling in the right direction to our specific bit of solitude? Could we have taken a wrong turn into the heart of a vast nature preserve? Were we possibly in Canada, noted for its woodland? When had we last seen a gas station? How soon was local sunset? Could there have been a decomposing body in that Airstream? Christine aside, we’d not seen another vehicle for miles. If your car broke down, whom would you call out here? No one, apparently; my wife announced that her cell phone couldn’t maintain a connection. Yet hadn’t this sense of utter loneliness been our goal? We’d not sought attractions, outlet malls, or even nice restaurants. We hadn’t even wanted a reliable cell phone connection. Until now. Hours later, after winding down a series of long, narrow, potholed, twisting, empty, and unlit side roads, gravel roads, and an overgrown and muddy driveway, we found our cabin. There were no sounds at all. Even the wildlife was silent. If there were crickets, frogs, or birds, they either were away somewhere that felt a hell of a lot safer than this cabin, or they were stone dead. We stepped inside, secured the door with its one feeble lock, and fell into light, troubled sleep.

e awoke at 4:30, Downeast’s warm-adjacent summer sun rising over the harbor. In the distance, fishing boats powered up, puttering into the fog. Barring Christine-type fishing boats, we were still within swimming range of civilization—the very thing that we’d quite happily jetted away from only yesterday morning.

Perhaps the warm light of day and the hours of sleep had granted us some perspective. In the first few moments of the morning, we spotted a red squirrel—the first either of us had ever seen—hopping across a branch, and a red fox (perhaps on the prowl for that very squirrel) motionless in the scrub. We took a second drive, the one we should have taken the previous day. In the absence of any comforting markers, we guessed our way through a series of forks in the road, finding ourselves slowly rattling, with occasional lurching skids, down a seemingly endless gravel proto-boulevard toward the “spectacular and untrammeled 1,540-acre wilderness” promised by our guidebook. Our introduction to Maine’s uncanny knack for unexpected, impenetrable wilderness the previous day had been embarrassingly unsettling. Today, however, traveling several more miles down the gravel slope, things were different. We saw the turn just in time—a microscopic, unmarked parking area tucked away in a bend. Yesterday we would have noted that the lot was eerily devoid of people, the sort of place you’d never visit in a “civilized” locale. However, this was not civilization. The infamous mosquitoes of Vacationland hovered menacingly outside the car’s windows, but now we were serious too. We smeared on insect repellent and scuttled up a narrow, overgrown path away from the mosquitoes, away from the empty parking lot, away from the road back to the smallest town in the world, out of the noon sunlight and, in an instant, into twilight. (Continued on page 111)

STAFF IMAGE

BY C HR IS SU MBE R G

Heirloom Tomato Breakfast Pie SERVES 8 Ingredients: 1 1/2 cup 1 cup 1/2 cup 1/2 cup 1/2 cup 1 1 tsp. 1 medium 3

Hannaford Rolled Pie Crust Packed Fresh Express® Baby Spinach, chopped Taste of Inspirations® Gruyere Cheese, shredded Taste of Inspirations Parmesan Cheese, shredded Stonyfield® Organic 0% Fat Plain Greek Yogurt Cedar’s® Balsamic Caramelized Onion Hommus Egg McCormick® Thyme Leaves Avocado from Mexico, cubed Heirloom tomatoes Salt and pepper, to taste

Directions: 1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Roll out prepared pie dough into a pie dish and pinch the edges between your fingers for a decorative crimped edge. Par-bake crust for 10 minutes and remove from oven. Reduce oven temperature to 350°F.

Enjoy the flavors of summer with this garden-fresh breakfast pie. The healthy fats in avocado, fiber in hommus and protein in Greek yogurt will keep you nourished, satisfied and ready for any warm weather adventure.

simply healthy

2. In a medium bowl, combine greens, cheeses, yogurt, hommus, egg and thyme. Fold in avocado. 3. Transfer mixture into par-baked pie crust and use a spatula to ensure the pie filling is in an even layer. 4. Slice tomatoes lengthwise and place on paper towel to soak up some of the juices. Top pie with sliced tomatoes and season with salt and pepper. Bake for 30 minutes at 350°F.

from your Hannaford Dietitians We’re committed to supporting your health and wellness goals. Our team of registered dietitians offer free nutritional services online and in-store. Thank you to our sponsors for partnering with Hannaford to offer free dietitian services. Our dietitians communicate their own nutrition expertise, views and advice, using carefully selected products in recipes and demonstrations to share information on healthful eating. Visit hannaford.com/dietitians to learn more.

Nutritional Information: Amount per serving: Calories 290; Total Fat 18 g; Saturated Fat 7 g; Cholesterol 45 mg; Sodium 350 mg; Carbohydrate 21 g; Fiber 3 g; Sugar 4 g; Added Sugar 1 g; Protein 9 g

Take a day trip

ESCAPE To the footsteps of the White Mountain National Forest

Discover endless activities at Settlers Green in tax-free North Conway. Rent gear for your adventure at the REI Co-Op Experience Center. Shop outdoor brands like Columbia Sportswear and Eddie Bauer at outlet pricing. Après al fresco at one of our local restaurants to celebrate a day well spent in the mountains.

Only 60 miles from Portland in North Conway, New Hampshire Road Trip Itinerary Download to be entered to win an overnight camping setup from our outdoor retailers!

Portland Monthly Magazine July/August 2021

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