Portland Monthly Magazine October 2015 by portlandmonthlymagazine

Special RepoRt: the Maine 100 | In HIs Words: actoR, diRectoR, wRiteR andRew M c caRthy

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Lilia Garcelon at Portlandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Urban Farm Fermentory. october 2015 Vol. 30 no. 7 $5.95

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October 2015 | Vol. 30, No. 7

70 PersPectives 12 From the editor 15 Letters 67 L’esprit de l’escalier “Meltdown” By Rhea Côté Robbins PersonaLities 35 right now Judd nelson, The Portland actor checks in. Interview by Colin W. Sargent

from left: Corey templeton; martin DeliCCa

96 Flash

Art&styLe 52 Georgia o'Keeffe, Maine artist She's one of us! By Colin W. Sargent

57 Linked in

My artistic journey through the Ellis Island of the North. By Jo Israelson

FooD&Drink 65 Lively Ferments

Maine LiFe 17 Maine classics 18 experience 24 chowder

68 Dining Guide 69 restaurant review

27 1980s redux Discover when we were epic. By Olivia Gunn

We like our culture live here. By Claire Z. Cramer

Ports of Italy, Lower Village, Kennebunk.

Shelter&DesiGn 83 House of the Month

70 retail Details Our 2015 Holiday Gifts & Events Guide.

On the beach in Kennebunk.

93 Words

Homes & Living

“An Open Invitation” by Andrew McCarthy

39 Portland after Dark: all night Long Channel that 1980s vibe. By Jeanee Dudley

86 new england

THE MAINE100

Our 2015 portfolio of Maine's top earning companies. Commentary by Evan Livada Data from Dun & Bradstreet

cover: Lilia Garcelon serves kombucha at Urban Farm Fermentory's tasting room. OctOber 2015 11

Editorial Colin W. Sargent, Editor & Publisher

Monhegan K. Dana Morning Nelson Paul Black 11x14 11 x 14 oil oil

Featuring original works of fifine ne art, photography and limited-edition prints by regional and local artists. 372 Fore Street Portland, Maine 04101 (207) 874-8084 www.forestreetgallery.com

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“I am a tourist in my own life.” Poet Linda Pastan may have written this line ironically, but I have a sunnier, more carefree take on it, which is odd for a Scorpio. During perfect, crisp, fall days like this, we used to roll up the sidewalks in coastal towns like Ogunquit, Kennebunkport, Old Orchard, Freeport, Damariscotta, Boothbay Harbor, Bar Harbor, even Portland. But now that the sense of “Maine” is blurring into a fashion meme (viz. checkered shirts and Bean Boots in Singapore) and even a state of mind, fall is a time of awakenings. Food tastes better. Just now, right now, the crash of waves is more reflective during a long walk on the beach. Me in the ’80s. For more on I was born in Portland in Maine Eye Portland back in the day, see page 27. To share your own embarrassand Ear Infirmary, the same hospital ing ’80s photo, send it to staff@ where Stephen King was born. (The last portlandmonthly.com. time I bragged about this, a local gave me the suspicious eye and challenged, “What floor?”) In spite of my local credentials, I’ve more than once been called “a year-round summer person” because I edit a city magazine that tirelessly looks for new attractions year-round. It’s the greatest job in the world to get to showcase the quirky Maine I love. Put another way, we’re all in search of “a permanent vacation.” No, no, not the way the Angels use that phrase in their 1963 hit “My Boyfriend’s Back.” But in a freeing way where you can be commuting to work, look out your car window, and catch your breath when you see a deer, an eagle, a wave, a flock of seagulls. Tourists in our own lives, taking in the foliage? Okay! It’s our luck as Mainers that at least we aren’t commuters in our own lives. (Sorry, Yankees fans.) So many business people I know have moved here to chase lost childhoods (summer camp, canoeing on a lake, tasting their first lobster rolls, even just sampling sincerity). In every case I can think of, they’ve rediscovered themselves here. If we are tourists in our own lives, and we live in a tourist destination like Maine, that’s a double fantasy. Yoko Ono has told me (yes, I regularly chat with Yoko, well…once) that even she and John Lennon tried Maine on when The Dakota got too claustrophobic. She said he started at Kittery, driving along the coast, saying,“‘We should get this beautiful house hanging over the surf.’ Then he’d crane his neck and say, ‘Look up there. Let’s see that one.’ Then he’d see a place on the next peninsula steaming out of the fog and say, ‘Hurry, let’s go there.’” He was in a hurry for beauty–that’s how his mind worked. We don’t just live our own dreams here, we live everyone else’s, too. If Maine is the wave at the end of the mind, we have to surf it. Hey-la-hey-lah. It’s our responsibility so next summer we can share it with our guests. Rhonda FaRnham

Dinghy at Dusk, Merchant Row

Year-Round Summer People

Portland Maine’s City Magazine 165 State Street, Portland, Maine 04101 Phone: (207) 775-4339 Fax: (207) 775-2334 e-mail: staff@portlandmonthly.com www.portlandmagazine.com Colin W. Sargent Founding Editor & Publisher editor@portlandmonthly.com Art & Production Nancy Sargent Art Director Jesse Stenbak Associate Publisher staff@portlandmonthly.com Meaghan Maurice Design Director meaghan@portlandmonthly.com

Old POrt SPecialty tile cO In collaboration with Steinberg Custom Designs

AdvErtising Nicole Barna Advertising executive nicole@portlandmonthly.com Karen Duddy Advertising executive karen@portlandmonthly.com Ryan Hammond Advertising executive ryan@portlandmonthly.com Anna J. Nelson Advertising executive anna@portlandmonthly.com Zack Rouda Advertising executive zack@portlandmonthly.com EditoriAl Claire Z. Cramer Assistant editor & Publisher claire@portlandmonthly.com Colin S. Sargent Special Features & Archives Jason Hjort Webmaster Diane Hudson Flash · reviews Jeanee Dudley experience

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the opinions given in this magazine are those of Portland Magazine writers. No establishment is ever covered in this magazine because it has advertised, and no payment ever influences our stories and reviews. Portland Magazine is published by sargent Publishing, inc. All correspondence should be addressed to 165 state street, Portland, ME 04101. Advertising office: 165 state street, Portland, ME 04101. (207) 775-4339. repeat internet rights are understood to be purchased with all stories and artwork. For questions regarding advertising invoicing and payments, call Eric taylor. newsstand cover date: october 2015, published in september 2015, vol. 30, no. 7, copyright 2015. Portland Magazine is mailed at third-class mail rates in Portland, ME 04101 (issn: 1073-1857). opinions expressed in articles are those of authors and do not represent editorial positions of Portland Magazine. letters to the editor are welcome and will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication and copyright purposes and as subject to Portland Magazine’s unrestricted right to edit and comment editorially. responsible only for that portion of any advertisement which is printed incorrectly. Advertisers are responsible for copyrights of materials they submit. nothing in this issue may be reprinted in whole or in part without written permission from the publishers. submissions welcome, but we take no responsibility for unsolicited materials. All photography has been enhanced for your enjoyment. Portland Magazine is published 10 times annually by sargent Publishing, inc., 165 state street, Portland, Maine, 04101, with newsstand cover dates of Winterguide, February/March, April, May, summerguide, July/August, september, october, november, and december. We are proudly printed in the usA by cummings Printing. Portland Magazine is the winner of 59 American graphic design Awards presented by graphic design usA for excellence in publication design.

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A RAy of SunShine That is an amazing write-up! [See “A Man in Full,” September 2015.] Among the most favorite interviews I’ve ever done, and I thank you so much for taking the time to really get it right in a truly innovative, compelling, and enjoyable way. Jonathan Edwards, Cape Elizabeth I had no idea he lives in Cape Elizabeth! Gary W. Libby, Portland WouldA CouldA ShouldA Many thanks for such a wonderful experience reading “Maine Painters, A Catalog” [September 2015]–all 212 of them. You gave us an opportunity to relive lots of happy times viewing and meeting Maine artists. Of course, the art world recently lost one of its bright lights, Tom Crotty. His gallery gave us many hours of pleasure. Crotty’s pictures show a true love of Maine, which you can feel through his work. The Portland Museum of Art presented a magnificent exhibit of his work. It was memorable. We had a “should-have” moment. Many years ago, we attended an auction in Portland with friends. We were young and facing mortgages and children’s school expenses. We marveled at a Frederick Church painting. We wondered if we could pool our money and share ownership. Common sense prevailed when it sold for over $10,000. When we saw the $4 million sale price in the catalog for one of his paintings, we really felt we should have. Ed and Bev Keough, Kennebunk Editor’s Note: Caren-Marie Michel of Westbrook is this month’s winner of our challenge to readers to add value to a Portland Magazine story by contributing insight. She sent us her memories of the 1970s in Portland after reading “Imagine a Town…Run by Artists” in July/August. A drawing of monthly winners will be held December 31 to win a framed Jon Legere silk screen.

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MaineClassics

Forest from top: Cynthia farr weinfeld; jud hatmann; jill bla Ckwood; Colin Sargent

City

Here’s your chance to hit the Maine winery trail without ever leaving town. No fewer than 18 members of the Maine Wine Guild converge on October 16 at the stunningly restored U.S. Custom House to present Maine Wine in the City, a tasting event in two shifts: 5 to 6:45 p.m., and 7:15 to 9 p.m. the $30 ticket ($40 at the door) includes your choice of 12 of the 100 wines and a selection of cheeses from Silvery Moon, Winter Hill, and Fuzzy Udder creameries. mainewinetrail.com

Rescue Me The Quintessential One-Room Schoolhouse

Kennebunk Historical Society’s Town House School needs $350,000 for serious repairs–or else. Attend Save Our School (S.O.S.) fundraising shows at Nonantum Resort on Oct. 20 (ship building); Oct. 27 (ghost stories); and Nov. 10 (shipwrecks). call 967-2708 to make a donation–they’re over a third of the way to the goal.

Street Smarts

Have you ever wondered about the street Madokawando Landing in Falmouth and who it is named for? Blue Hill sculptor Jud Hartmann conducted deep research on the Penobscot sachem before he cast him in bronze (see above). Note the snow on his feet. To read more about the sculpture and the subject, visit judhartmanngallery.com/work/madockawando.html. [Alternate spelling: Maddockawando]

Sneaking into Town You can’t sail past South Portland yacht spotter Jill Blackwood and expect her not to notice. “Diamond is an Ab 116, a jet-propelled superyacht built in tuscany, said to go 50 mph. Here she is, slipping by cushing and Peaks islands into Portland. She was sold in 2013 for $14M. the hull is made of composites developed in the aircraft industry.” OctOber 2015 17

ExpEriEncE Belfast Maskers/Cold Comfort theater, see website for locations. The Effect of Gamma Rays on Man-in-the-Moon Marigolds, Oct. 930-7244 coldcomforttheater.com Celebration Barn theater, 190 Stock Farm Rd., South Paris. Snafu, Oct. 24. 7438452 celebrationbarn.com Children’s Museum & theater of Maine, 142 Free St., Portland. Stage stories, daily; Roald Dahl’s The Witches, Oct.-nov. 828-1234 kitetails.org

Forest Ave., Portland. Dancing at Lughnasa ,through Oct. 25; The Mountaintop, nov. 3-22; The Snow Queen, Dec. 5-24. portlandstage.org public theatre, 31 Maple St., Lewiston. Wait Until Dark, Oct. 16-25; Men are from Mars, Women are from Venus–Live, nov. 6-8; A Christmas Carol, Dec. 11-13. 782-3200 thepublictheatre.org Schoolhouse arts Center, Rte. 114, Sebago Lake

City theater in Biddeford, 205 Main St. Jekyll & Hyde, Oct. 16-nov. 1; The Best Christmas Pageant Ever, Dec. 4-13. 282-0849 citytheater.org Freeport Community players, 30 Holbrook St., Freeport. Radio 2015, Dec. 865-2220 fcponline.org Gaslight theater, 1 Winthrop St., Hallowell. A Murder is Announced, nov. 13-22. 626-3698 gaslighttheater.org Maine State Ballet theater, 348 U.S. Rte. 1, Falmouth. Peter & the Wolf and Western Roundup, Oct. 9-17; The Nutcracker, nov. 28-Dec. 6. 781-7672 mainestateballet.org the Music Hall, 28 Chestnut St., Portsmouth, nH. Irving Berlin’s White Christmas, The Musical, Dec. 9-20. themusichall.org portland Ballet, 517 Forest Ave. Three Tales by Poe, Oct. 16, 17, 23, 24. 7729671 portlandballet.org ogunquit playhouse, 10 Main St., Ogunquit. Saturday Night Fever, thru Oct. 25. 646-5511 ogunquitplayhouse.org portland Stage, 25A

delicious Memories

Meet award-winning Portland novelist Kate Christensen and check out her latest, How To Cook A Moose (Islandport Press, $24.95 hardcover). The “culinary memoir” explores her discovery of Maine’s farmers, chefs, and food on her way to finding love and peace of mind. She’s at Maine Coast Bookshop in Damariscotta October 29. See Islandportpress.com for further dates.

Village. Disney’s The Aristocats KIDS, nov. 6-8; It’s a Wonderful Life The Musical, Dec. 4-20. 642-3743 schoolhousearts.org

GallEriEs art Gallery at UnE, 716 Stevens Ave., Portland. A Tale of Three Cities: Period and contemporary

photos of Paris, new york and Portland, thru Oct. 25; Annual Sculpture Garden Invitational, thru Oct. 31; Portraits of the Artist, nov. 7-Feb. 7. 221-4499 une.edu/artgallery Bates College Museum of art, Olin Arts Center, 75 Russell St., Lewiston. Maine Collected, The View Out the Window (and in his mind’s eye), thru Mar. 2016. 786-6158 bates.edu/museum Bowdoin College Museum of art, 1 Bath Rd., Brunswick. Gilbert Stuart: From Boston to Brunswick, thru Jan. 3; earth Matters: Land as Material and Metaphor in the Arts in Africa, Oct. 15 – Mar. 6; Olive Pierce: Photographing a Maine Fishing Community, Oct. 29 – Jan. 17; To Count Art an Intimate Friend: Highlights from the Bowdoin Collections 1794 to Present, nov. 5 – June 5. 725-3275 bowdoin.edu/art-museum Colby College Museum of art, 5600 Mayflower Hill Dr., Waterville. Aesthetic Harmonies: Whistler in Context, through Jan. 3; From the Studio: new Work by Faculty Artists, through Oct. 25; Whistler and the World: The Lunder Collection of James Mcneill Whistler, thru Jan. 10. 859-5600 colby.edu Farnsworth art Museum, 16 Museum St., Rockland. The Wyeths, Maine and the Sea, thru Jan. 3; Maine Collects: Treasures from Maine’s Private Collections; Picturing Maine, Oct. 3-Mar. 27. 596-6457 farnsworthmuseum.org First Friday art Walk, downtown Portland. Visit local galleries, studios, and museums, Oct.

Flashing Bows Fiddle-icous, Maine’s largest fiddle orchestra, is on tour in October. A selection of traditional Irish, Scottish, Quebecois and Acadian tunes including jigs, reels, hornpipes, and waltzes are performed on fiddle, piano, harp, guitar, banjo, accordion, and whistles. See them Oct. 17 at Mt. Ararat Middle School, Topsham; Oct. 18 at Cony High School, Augusta; Oct. 24 at Gorham High School; and Oct. 25 at the Franco Center in Lewiston. Visit fiddleicious.com 1 8 p o r t l a n d M O n T H Ly M A G A z I n e

Melissa Ferrick, November 6, One Longfellow Square, Portland,

2; nov. 6; Dec. 4. firstfridayartwalk.com Maine Historical Society, 489 Congress St., Portland. See website for coming exhibitions. 774-1822 mainehistory.org Maine Jewish Museum, 267 Congress St., Portland. Welcoming the Stranger–Jo Israelson, thru October 26. mainejewishmuseum.org portland Museum of art, 7 Congress Sq., Portland. Rose Marasco: Index, thru Dec.; A Magnificent Stillness: American Art from a Private Collection, thru nov. 8; you Can’t Get There from Here: 2015 Portland Museum Biennial, Oct. 8-Jan. 3; Me, Mona and Mao, nov. 20-Feb. 21. 775-6148 portlandmuseum.org

Music asylum, 121 Center St., Portland. Rap and Karaoke, every Wed.; Retro night, every Thur.; Plague, every F; Maddie & Tae, Oct. 10; Machine Head, nov. 27. portlandasylum.com Blue, 650 Congress St., Portland. Acoustic Jam, every Tues.; Irish Music night, every Wed.; See website for more listings. 774-4111. portcityblue.com Boothbay opera House, 86 Townsend Ave., Boothbay Harbor. Livingston Taylor, Tom Chapin & the Jammin’ Divas, Oct. 10; Daniel Backmen, Oct.

17. See website for more dates. 633-5159 boothbayoperahouse.com Cross Insurance arena, 1 Center Street, Portland. Modest Mouse, Oct. 20; Shinedown and Breaking Benjamin, nov. 24. 775-3458 crossarenaportland.com Cross Insurance Center, 515 Main St. Bangor. Motley Crue with Alice Cooper, Oct. 18; Brett eldredge & Thomas Rhett, nov. 6. crossinsurancecenter.com dogfish Bar & Grille, 128 Free St., Portland. Acoustic Open Mic, every Wed.; Jazz Happy Hour with Travis James Humphrey & guests, every Fri.; Live music Wed.-Sat. every week. See website for more listings. 772-5483 thedogfishcompany.com Empire, 575 Congress St., Portland. The Couch open mic, every Sun; Clash of the Titans, every Wed. See website for more listings. 747-5063 portlandempire.com portland House of Music, 25 Temple St., Portland. Micromasse every Wed; TRVP Dance Party every Sun.; The Ghosts of Johnson City, Oct. 24. portlandhouseofmusic.com Jonathan’s, 92 Bournes Ln., Ogunquit. Maria Muldaur, Oct. 16; George Winston, Oct. 21; Peter Wolf, Oct. 22; Tom Rush, Oct. 23; The Weight, nov. 14; Madeleine Peroux, nov. 21; Paula Poundstone, nov. 28. 646-4526 jonathansogunquit.com

from top: shervin lainez; kevin Bennett

ThEaTEr

THE

OLD HOUSE — PARTS CO. — WWW.OLDHOUSEPARTS.COM P: 207 9851999 1 TRACKSIDE DRIVE, KENNEBUNK, MAINE RETAIL STORE OPEN 363 DAYS A YEAR

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Spirits of Stroudwater Take a guided tour of the historic cemetery adjacent to the Tate House Museum (shown above) October 17 & 24, 12- 4pm Adults: $12, $6/children.774-6177 or info@tatehouse.org Merrill Auditorium, 20 Myrtle St., Portland. Kotzschmar Organ Season Opening Concert: Beethoven & Berlioz, Oct. 11, 13; Loreena McKennitt, Oct. 14; 42nd Street, Oct. 17; Trickor-Treat Symphony, Oct. 18; Tribute to John Denver, Oct. 24, 25; Halloween Silent Film: Nosferatu, with organist Tom Trenney, Oct. 30; Newsboys, Oct. 31; Caps for Sale, Nov. 1; Enchanted Favorites, Nov. 10; Carol Williams, Nov. 17; Portland Symphony Orchestra presents Brahms’ Second Concerto; Polar Express, Nov. 27-Dec. 23; . 842-0800 porttix.com

& Visitors Bureau isPORTLAND’S NOT liable or anyDISCOVER mistakes, this is the ONLY responsibility of the client. PORTLAND’S ONLY COVER ALL-SUITES WATERFRONT HOTEL UITES WATERFRONT HOTEL

DISCOVER PORTLAND’S ONLY ALL-SUITES WATERFRONT HOTEL

One Longfellow Square, 181 State St., Portland. Fred Eaglesmith’s Traveling Steam Show, Oct. 10; David Ramirez with Dylan LeBlanc, Oct. 11; Portland Jazz Orchestra, Oct. 15; Maia Sharp, Oct. 16; David Mallett with full band, Oct. 17; Matt Braunger, Oct. 21; Badi Assad, Oct. 23; Ozere, Oct. 24; Des Bishop, Oct. 25; Dress Up to Drive Out Slavery, Oct. 30; Charlie Hunter Trio, Oct. 4; Melissa Ferrick, Nov. 6; Civil Twilight with Knox Hamilton, Nov. 8; Ben Caplan and the Casual Smokers, Nov. 14. 761-1757 onelongfellowsquare.com

Port City Music Hall, 504 Congress St., Portland. Lucero, Oct. 10; Kung Fu, Oct. 15; David Wax Museum, Oct. 16; Josh Ritter, Oct. 20; Late Night Radio, Oct. 21; Vanna, Oct. 23; Andrea place ~ Complimentary Full Breakfast Buffet ~ Indoor Pool & Fitness Lobby Bar with Fireplace ~ Complimentary FullArea Breakfast Buffet ~ Indoor Pool & Fitness Area Gibson, Oct. 25; Sage Francis, Oct. 30; The d Port ~ Outdoor Courtyard withtoFire ~Port Mid~Week Evening Receptions Short Walk the Pit Outdoor Courtyard with Fire Pit ~ Mid Week Evening InfamousReceptions Stringdusters, Nov. 1; Wild Child, Nov. Lobby Bar with Fireplace ~Old Complimentary Full Breakfast Buffet 6; Zach Deputy, Nov. 11; Diarrhea Planet, Nov. 11; Carbon Leaf, Nov. 13; Bronze Radio, Nov. 14. Indoor Pool & Fitness Area ~ Short Walk to the Old Port 956-6000 portcitymusichall.com State Theatre, 609 Congress St., Portland. P O RT L A N D D OW N T OWPNO RT L A N D D OW N T OW N Collab Tour, Oct. 11; David Wax MuCreative seum, Oct. 16; Mat Kearney, Oct. 19; Blackest WAT E R F RO N T WAT E R F RO N T of the Black Tour, Oct. 20; Young the Giant,

Outdoor Courtyard with Fire Pit Mid Week Evening Receptions Lobby Bar with Fireplace ~ Complimentary Full~ Breakfast Buffet ~ Indoor Pool & Fitness Area Short Walk to the Old Port ~ Outdoor Courtyard with Fire Pit ~ Mid Week Evening Receptions

P O RT L A N D D OW N T OW N WAT E R F RO N T

Stone Mountain Arts Center, 695 Dug Way Rd. Song Stage: hosted by Carol Noonan with special guests, David Francey, Dietrich Strause, ORE STREET ~ PORTLAND, MAINE ~ 207-761-1660 ~ www.residenceinndowntownportland.com Catie Curtis, Oct. 16; Peter Wolf, Oct. 23; Rooster Luncheon, Nov. 4; Natalie MacMaster and Donnell Leahy, Nov. 5; Capitol Steps, Nov. 6; Tim O’Brien, Nov. 7; Indigo Girls, Nov. same ad with me —ad with Please Renew my ad Contact Run same Contact me — 145 FORE STREET • PORTLAND, MAINE 9; Waltzings for Dreamers: Dietrich Strause I would likechanges extensiveindicated changes or a complete redesign. r changes and Band, 12; Della Mae, Nov. 13; Joyce I would like extensive changes or Nov. a complete redesign. AS IS indicated minor

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TLAND, MAINE ~ 207-761-1660 www.residenceinndowntownportland.com 145 FORE STREET ~ ~ PORTLAND, MAINE ~ 207-761-1660 ~

Oct. 23; GRiZ, Oct. 24; Iration, Oct. 25; Nate Ruess, Nov. 15; Bo Burnham, Nov. 16; Cooderwww.residenceinndowntownportland.com White-Skaggs, Nov. 18; Dark Star Orchestra, Nov. 19; Andrew McMahon in the Wilderness, Nov. 22. 956-6000 statetheatreportland.com

ExpEriEncE Anderson and Devonsquare, Nov. 20; Jubilee riots, Nov. 21; robert cray band, Nov. 22; Girls, Guns and Glory, Nov. 28. 935-7292 stonemountainartscenter.com

TasTy EvEnTs Acadia’s Oktoberfest & Food Festival, 20 Main St., Southwest Harbor. Wine and cheese tasting, Maine-based brew fest, locally sourced food, and crafts, Oct. 10-11. acadiaoktoberfest.com Browne Trading Company, 262 commercial St., Portland. Wine tastings, one or more Sat. every month, 1-5 pm. 775-7560 brownetrading.com Craft Beer Cellar, 111 commercial St., Portland. craft beer tastings every Fri. 956-7322 craftbeercellar.com Damariscotta Pumpkinfest and Regatta, Pinkham’s Plantation, 431 biscay rd. Pumpkinboat regatta and derby, pumpkin catapulting, giant pumpkin art, pumpkin-pie eating, and parade, Oct. 3-12. damariscottapumpkinfest.com Flanagan Farm, 668 Narragansett trail (rt. 202), buxton. benefit dinners prepared by local chefs to benefit Maine Farmland trust. Masa Miyake of Miyake and Pai Men, Oct. 18; Fabulous Femmes: Krista Kern Desjarlais of bresca & the Honeybee, Melissa Kelly of Primo, Ilma Lopez of Piccolo, Kim rogers of Hugo’s, cara Stadler of tao Yuan and bao bao Dumpling House, Oct. 25; Andrew taylor and Michael Wiley of Hugo’s and eventide Oyster co., Nov. 1; Jason Loring of Nosh and Slab, Dec. 4. flanaganstable.com Harvest on the Harbor, Ocean Gateway, Portland. the 8th annual extravaganza of food, wine, and brews (21+ only). chef demonstrations, lobster chef competition, brews & blues bbQ, tasting events, Oct. 22-25. harvestontheharbor.com Local Sprouts, 649 congress St., Portland. Music brunch with Sean Mencher and friends, every Sun.; Local Foods Networking breakfast, Oct. 20; Nov. 17. localsproutscooperative.com Lolita Vinoteca + Asador, 90 congress St., Portland. tapas Mondays, every Mon. 3-11, wines paired with small plates. 775-5652 lolita-portland.com Maine Harvest Festival, cross Insurance ctr., bangor. A delicious celebration of Maine’s small farms and their bounty, Nov. 14-15. maineharvestfestival.com Maine Open Creamery Day at many cheesemakers around the state, a chance to sample dozens of artisanal cheeses, pet the animals, and enjoy the foliage, Oct. 11. mainecheeseguild.org

What kind of school encourages students to make mistakes?

Championing “the right answer” over curiosity and exploration conditions students to be risk-averse. That’s why Waynflete asks students of all ages to risk raising their hands and taking a position. Promoting positive risk-taking helps students develop courage, competency, resiliency, and grit. Learn more about our approach at waynflete.org/learntolearn.

Learn to Learn

Authentic Thai Cooking

865-6005

Dine In • Take-Out Open 7 Days A Week Lunch & Dinner • Beer & Wine Monday–Saturday 11am–9pm Sunday 4pm–9pm

Spice Levels

★ 1 Star: Coward ★★ 2 Stars: Careful ★★★ 3 Stars: Adventurous ★★★★ 4 Stars: Native ★★★★★ 5 Stars: Showoff

Old Port Wine Merchants, 223 commercial St., Portland. Wine tasting every third Wed. 772-9463 oldportwine.com Sweetgrass Farm Old Port Tasting Room, 324 Fore St., Portland. Maine-made wine, bitters, and spirit tastings all the time. 761-8446 sweetgrasswinery.com Velveteen Habit, 37 Ogunquit rd., cape Neddick. comfort thursdays: family-style meatloaf dinner $20 with optional wine pair-

491 US Route One, Freeport, Maine 1/2 mile south of Exit 20 (Across from Comfort Suite) O c t O b e r 2015 21

ExpEriEncE

the West End deli & Catering, 545 Congress St., Portland. Wine tastings every first Fri. 774-6426 thewestenddeli.com

Don’t Miss Annual ogunquitfest, Ogunquit. Family events, costume parade, food, and fun races, Oct. 23 visitogunquit.org Annual Saco Spirit Harvest Festival, Main St., Saco. entertainment, children’s activities, contests and food, Oct. 17. sacospirit.com

Time to keep an eye out for ski swaps and sales!

Rd., Falmouth. Celebrate the coast of maine with guest speaker Colin Woodard and Silent auction, nov. 7. tate-coastofmaine. eventbrite.com

“A Book Lover’s Book”

Portland’s former poet laureate Marcia F. Brown reads from her latest book, Well Read, Well Fed (Sellers Pub., $15.95), 12 essays about the pleasures of reading, with lists of book suggestions, and 12 essays about food and cooking with easy seasonal recipes to serve at book group gatherings. Falmouth Memorial Library, Oct. 22, 6:30 p.m.rsvp.com/category/books/new-books Annual York Beach Harvestfest & Kidsfest, york Beach. Music, food, crafts and family activities, Oct. 17. yorkharvestfest.com Cross Insurance Arena, 1 Center Street, Portland. So You Think You Can Dance Season 12 Live tour nov. 14. 775-3458 crossarenaportland.com

woodsmen’s field day of timber-related competitions, live music, magicians, storytelling, and puppets, Oct. 4-11. 935-3268. fryeburgfair.com

Foliage! Mid-October is prime leaf peeping and peak color in southern and coastal Maine. See details at mainefoliage.com

Gardiner Swine and Stein octoberfest, Water St., gardner. Beer, food and music as well as a chicken fling, frozen t-shirt race, annual Rock, Paper, Scissors Championship, and the annual gardiner Beard & Mustache Competition, Oct. 10. gardinermainstreet.org

Fryeburg Fair has been “Maine’s Blue Ribbon Classic” since 1851. Livestock, pig scramble, midway rides, sheepdog trials, a

Great Maine Apple day, Common ground education Center, 294 Crosby Brook Rd., Unity. Learn about history, tradition and

2 2 p o r t L A n d M O n t h Ly M a g a z i n e

the flavor of fall, Oct. 18. mofga.org Sugarloaf, 5092 access Rd., Carrabasset Valley. homecoming Weekend, with many outdoor activities, Uphill Climb Race, used ski equipment sale, Oct. 9-11. sugarloaf.com Sunday river, Sunday River Rd., newry. annual Fall Festival includes free wagon & pony rides, carnival games, family activities, and annual north american Wife Carrying Championship, Oct. 9-11. sundayriver.com tate House Museum benefit at the Portland Country Club, 11 Foreside

UUCB Concerts For A Cause, Unitarian Universalist Church of Brunswick, 1 Middle St. Pianist Jesse Feinberg will perform to benefit local charities, Oct. 24. uucbfeinberg.brownpapertickets.com Victoria Mansion, 109 Danforth St., Portland. the Way We Wear: Fashion and industry in the 19th Century, an historical fashion exhibit in the Carriage house, through Oct. 31. victoriamansion.org Wolfe’s neck Farm, 184 Burnett Rd., Freeport. annual waterfront Fall Festival, family activities, demonstrations, live music and food, Oct. 10. wolfesneckfarm.org –Compiled by Jeanee Dudley

courtesy marcia brown; reneemeggs.com

ings.216-9884 thevelveteenhabit.com

SO ST linen

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a fall season essential

Southern Maine’s Favorite Lava-Stone Cooking

Pour-your-own beer wall Huge selection of local & regional craft beers

Introducing Sunday Brunch Come try our new fall menu! New Fall Hours visit our website 175 Lower Maine Street, Freeport | (207)869-5651 | StirlingAndMull.com

Stroudwater Cemetery Tours Come tour the Stroudwater Burying Grounds October 17 & 24 Noon- 4pm Adults: $12, $6 for children under 12

APPAREL & ACCESSORIES

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For tickets call 774-6177 or email info@tatehouse.org

Celebrate The Coast of Maine

With the Tate House Museum

Saturday November 7 at the Portland Country Club Fundraiser to support the Tate House Museum Special guest speaker Colin Woodard Silent Auction | tate-coastofmaine.eventbrite.com For tickets call 774-6177 or email info@tatehouse.org O c t O b e r 2015 23

Chowder

A ta s t y bl e n d of th e fa bu lou s, notewo r thy, a n d a bsu rd.

narl, though your heart is aching. South Portland artist Andy Rosen is the man behind Unpack, the terrifyingly realistic sculpture of ill-tempered dogs poised to leap off the abandoned pilings of Grand Trunk railroad pier in the Old Port. Don’t worry, it’s real fake fur on PVC. Inspired by dogs waiting for their owners on the ferry dock at Peaks Island, Rosen “imagined what would happen if their master never came back,” and they went wild. With a grant from Space Gallery’s Kindling Fund, Rosen had to prove its low environmental impact to the city of Portland with “an assurance from a scientist that I wasn’t going to scare off important migratory birds.” –Becca Carifio

Buried

astern Cemetery dates to 1668 and is filled with top-notch ghosts, including the captains of the ships Enterprise and Boxer who clashed spectacularly in the War of 1812; Capt. Lemuel Moody, who built the Portland Observatory in 1807; landscape painter Charles Codman (1800-1842); and RevolutionaryWar-era freed slaves Plato McLellan and Cato Shattuck. Distinctive gravestone art includes “willow-and-urn” relief carvings by Bartlett Adams, and crazy little death’s-head skulls with wings by John Geyer. Tours begin Wed., Sat., and Sun. mornings at 11 a.m. through Oct. 18 at 224 Congress Street. Not scared of the dark? Walk Among The Shadows on Oct. 23-25, and 28-29, features specter guides [actors from Acorn Theater] who will take you through the tombs and into the plot of an interactive play. This year’s theme is “The Bombardment of Falmouth, 1775.” Ticket sales for all tours ($10/adults, spiritsalive.org).

2 4 p o r T L A n d M O N T h Ly M A g A z i N E

Tough Cookies Hey, Katniss, ready to master the wilderness up this way? The Maine Becoming an Outdoors-Woman (BOW) program’s annual Introductory Skills Weekend is Oct. 9 to 11 at the UMaine 4-H Camp & Learning Center on Bryant Pond. Co-sponsored by the Maine Department of Inland Fisheries and Wildlife, the weekend features archery, turkey calling, primitive skills, knot tying, firearms use, and marks(wo) manship. Women over 18 looking to build some wilderness cred can participate for $245. May the odds be ever in your favor. umaine.edu/bryantpond/bow-introductory-skills-weekend. –Becca Carifio

From Top: meaghan maurice; Thepunekar.com; okaywave.com

Treasures

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onefreeportvillagestation.com for COUPONS and a complete list of stores. Parking is free in our 500-car garage.

LOVE

PORTLAND

Find out where to eat, shop, stay and play at the all new PORTLANDMAINE.COM Get connected

1980s

Z e it geist

Redux

Starlight memories of the go-go days.

By Olivia Gunn

Sid Tripp

tâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a Saturday night in 1985. In his weekend best pulled together from Material Objects, 25-yearold Sid Tripp locks the door of his Exchange Street apartment at the Old Port Arms and heads down to see what the rest of Portland has been doing since Friday. The golden age of Three Dollar Deweys, according to Sid Trippâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;back when it was on Fore Street, not Commercial.

October 2015 27

Stevie Nicks

From BILLBOARD Magazine’s Boxscores:

the 28th show on the Wild heart tour September 8, 1983, Portland, maine Venue: Cumberland County Civic Center headliner: Stevie nicks opening act: Joe Walsh Produced by: Frank J. Russo ticket Price: $12.50 available tickets: 9,415 tickets Sold: SelloUt Concert gross: $117,687

Funny Gal Portland’s comedic actress Andrea Martin got her start on SCTV in the ’70s and is still a force in film (My Big Fat Greek Wedding) and on stage, where she won a Tony award for her role in Pippin in 2013.

Bad News Bears

Here’s a painful blast from the past: On January 26, 1986, in New Orleans, the New England Patriots–led by Tony Eason & Steve Grogan–lost Super Bowl XX to the Chicago Bears–led by Jim McMahon (above) and Refrigerator Perry. The score? 46-10. The Bears added insult to injury by recording “The Superbowl Shuffle,” which turned into a sleeper hit and Grammy nominee. 2 8 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

“We went out almost every night of the week,” Sid says during our interview in his West End townhouse. “Sunday, Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday, Sunday. On Monday we’d do laundry. Wednesdays we’d stay home to watch Dynasty…” Sid is a graduate of the University of Maine who, like many of his friends, made a bee-line for Portland after graduation. He first took a job at F. Parker Reidy’s, where you could go for a great steak. Today, Sonny’s sits in its place. It wasn’t long before Sid was working on Congress at an advertising agency, making more money than a 20-something knew what to do with, and simply going out on the town. “We all had full-time jobs. And we’d be out until one, two in the morning. We’d be drinking all day. Drinks were cheap, food was cheap.”

Hot Spot

or their first stop, Sid’s group, which from what I can gather was the group, would first head downstairs and hit HuShang on Exchange Street for appetizers. The Szechuan- and Hunan-style restaurant originated on Congress and was owned by the Ng brothers, Ken and Henry. With a line outside every night, Eddie Fitzpatrick, former editor of the Maine Sunday Telegram once told Portland Magazine it was “…

the first good Chinese restaurant in Portland. Ken Ng had the ability to remember names. You’d dine there and then go back a year later, and he’d call you by name. HuShang was always full.” Susan Hellier, who arrived in Portland in 1981, tended bar there after having worked her way up the ranks in Ken Ng’s troops. “I started as a dishwasher [at the Congress Street location], and I’d get stoned every day between work. I’d leave one job, go behind the dumpster, take a couple hits of a joint, get into my overalls and do dishes at HuShang.” She sighs. “HuShang. I’m sorry you missed it.” Though Sue would one day manage the Lewiston location, she laughs at the thought of her first promotion. “I wanted to bus tables, but Ken said, ‘No. You are number one dish girl. Plus, you don’t dress good.’” After a promise of finding another supreme dishwasher and taking a comb to her curly hair, Sue was promoted to bussing at the second HuShang on Brown Street, where she eventually became a server before tending bar on Exchange. “Oh, Sue poured me thousands of drinks,” says Sid at the mention of her name.

Lure of tHe BrigHt LigHtS

Sue first came to Portland when she was 21 years old, for a house-sitting job and a helluva good time as promised by a friend from

CloCkwise from top left: BillBoard magazine; sid tripp(2) Courtesy purpoodoCk golf CluB; eBay; sid tripp; youtuBe; goldinauCtions.Com; zoomer

Cheers!

@ the Civic Center!

Z e itgei s t Orono. “I was going to go to Boston, but Julie said, ‘It’s going to cost us 70 bucks a month to live in Portland between the three of us.’ You say ‘yes’ to that.” But when the girls arrived, the woman they were to house-sit for had postponed her trip–leaving them no job, nowhere to live, but a future wide open. They rented a room at the Eastland Hotel, which in Sue’s words was the skeeviest place in the ’80s. “It was a lot of people just moving through. When you flushed the toilet, it sounded like the room had exploded.” Even so, her eyes light up talking about the summer it all began.

The WAy IT WAs

As Sue would pour to the sounds of DJ Kris Clark, Sid and friends would decide whether to stay or move on to Squire Morgan’s for free chicken wings and then to Moose Al-

Comedian George Hamm working the door at Three Dollar Deweys in his salad days.

ley or Kayo’s for one of the many live bands Portland had to offer. “You could go anywhere and see friends of yours playing,” says Sue. “All of my friends at the time were musicians. Charlie Brown, he was an amazing keyboardist, he had a band called Vito and The Groove Kings.” She stops to make a mental checklist. “The Clouds, Buffalo Chip Tea. See, now I’m going to forget someone’s band and they’re going to be pissed.” If you were truly in in the music scene, you might find yourself at a tiny hole in the wall on Brown Street called Geno’s. “You had to know somebody to get in, and if they didn’t know you, you’d have to say who you were with,” says Sid. “Punk rock had a home there at that point–the really early punk rock.”

Sid adds a fun fact. “Where they are now used to be a porn theater. The State Theater was a porn place, too.” Wait–according to Google Maps, the city had two porno spots 230 feet apart. Does that mean Portlanders only had two dirty movie houses to choose from?

A visit from Arnold Palmer

ArT-house heAven

bviously, pornography wasn’t the only thing available in the cinemas. In 1980, Steve and Judy Halpert took over the Movies on Exchange, which offered independent, foreign, and documentary films to a town that craved it. “There was a real need for it,” says Steve. “There was a group of people who wanted to see those movies, so we could really do just about anything we wanted to do. There was no competition.” Films such as 1985’s Buddies, said to be the first to tackle the topic of the AIDS pandemic, brought the Exchange Street audiences the same films that were current in New York and L.A. Portland welcomed films that touched on controversial subjects–and foreign films. The Halperts sought the “richer films with sophisticated characters.” “I came to the theater, and an hour early, they’re lined up Exchange Street to see The Seven Samurai,” Steve recalls. “I thought how starved people are–how many are lined up to see Kurosawa, and it’s not even a new movie.” [The Japanese classic dates to 1954.] The Halperts ran the Movies for more than three decades.

Purpoodock Golf club, cape elizabeth, October 3-7, 1984. Arnold Palmer headlines a group of senior golf tour stars at the UnionMutual Seniors Golf classic, including Don January, billy casper, and Doug Sanders. the event was the inspiration of [UNUM] president colin c. Hampton, UNUM VP bud Guthrie, and Maine golf great John Mills. two years later, in September 1986, Palmer shot an eagle on the 16th hole to win the tournament and a $38,000 first prize, with coverage by the New York Times. Palmer said his 65 in the opening round “put me in position” for the victory.

High design…next to Portland Stage the swan Dive on Forest Avenue harks back to the smoky days when every decent place had its own matchbook.

OctOber 2015 29

Z e i t geist at one point during our drinking years. Cheesy maybe, but it was the place where everybody knew your name. And if no one knew your address, they could send your post to Deweys. “Do you know the old Deweys?” Sue asks me over a beer at Sonny’s. I shake my head. “Oh, my God,” she says. “Deweys was awesome. It was all benches. You were forced to sit next to people you didn’t really know.”

Live Music

siri, take Me tO MeMOry Lane

kayo’s Shown during a 1981 performance at Kayo’s on Middle Street in Portland, Fashion Jungle was one of several Portland bands embracing the punk aesthetic of “faster, louder, more fun.” The short-lived original lineup of the band consisted of (from left) Doug Hubley, Mike Piscopo, Ken Reynolds, and Jim Sullivan.

Geno’s

Before Styxx, there was the Underground. Photos from facebook.com/pages/The-Underground-Portland-Maine.

“Every six months, you could play Casablanca or The Maltese Falcon. You could still get an audience because there was no other source. You couldn’t watch them on television, you couldn’t rent them and take them home,” says Steve. “The big, big change came when cable and videotape made these [films] readily accessible.” hat may once have been a threat to movie theaters in Portland–video rentals–has had to face its own obsolescence. In recent weeks, Portland said goodbye to a long-standing landmark, Videoport. Owner Bill Duggan acknowledged online streaming and a changing market as contributions to the closure. Movies on Exchange survives in the form of PMA Movies at the Portland Museum of Art, where Steve runs the weekend screenings. And today you can find 18,000 former Videoport relics available to rent at the Portland Public Library.

W Richard Julio, also known as Geets Romo, booked bands at Geno’s from 1983 to 1993. That’s at the original Geno’s, 13 Brown Street, literally underground in the former Pickle Barrell Deli. Cover charge? “Two or three dollars,” says Julio. Rent in Julio’s record shop in the Mariner’s Church on Fore Street? “$75 a month.” Bands he booked included The Brood (above), Chesterfield Kings, The Kopterz, The Del Fuegos, and BeBe Buell (below, a.k.a. Liv Tyler’s mom). To hear BeBe at the mic singing “Normal Girl” visit: bit.ly/NormalGirl.

FinishinG Out the niGht

By 11:30 p.m., Sid Tripp and his crew would have been making their way down to the place close to all of their hearts, Three Dollar Deweys. Deweys wasn’t at its current spot on Commercial Street then. Once upon a time, at the spot where the nightclub Pearl sits today, Three Dollar Deweys was the place to be if you were anyone in Portland… “We’d always try to make it there before 11 o’clock, because there’d be a line out the door,” Sid says. He describes a bar we all hope to know 3 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

“It was Cheers before Cheers,” says Sandy Flanagan, a bright, warm woman with red hair to match. She’s brought out a giant scrapbook created by Dewey’s regular Roland Waddington Jr., who’d visit every Saturday and sit at the back table and hold court. “He was kind, wonderful, interesting, and he loved people. Roland drew everyone together.” The book is filled with pictures of Roland’s friends, postcards, newspaper clippings–and not a single selfie. She points out a note written on a napkin from local writer Al Diamon, promising to bring Roland back a bottle from England.

Susan Hellier then & now: partying in the ’80s (above) and strolling the waterfront today.

Sandy flips through the pages, inviting me into a warm, friendly, bygone bar to meet the likes of Manny Verzosa, Claude Von Schmutz, even Breakfast Club star Judd Nelson. Also floating in: rockers like Tom

CloCkwise from top left: Jeff stanton; Joe Breggia; todd ionta; nina fuller; Courtesy susan Hellier; meagHan mauriCe; file pHotos; nina fuller; tHe Brood-Courtesy geets romo

Greetings from Maine! An unusual 1980s postcard.

Petty, Metallica, and a kilt-wearing French artist who’d left his goose farm behind for a new start in Portland. Deweys was opened by a man named Alan Eames, who Sandy describes as a brilliant shyster. “He made up these fantastic stories,” Sandy laughs. “‘This is the story. I know it’s not true,’ he’d say. Or, ‘This is all a lie.’” She grins. “Three Dollar Deweys came from the Gold Rush. It was the name of a bar whore house. One dollar lookey, two dollar touchy, three dollar dewey. Completely made up by Alan Eames.” Though Eames was the owner and mastermind behind Portland’s favorite bar, he wasn’t often seen there. Sandy says Eames would come in, clean, make chili, and return upstairs to his loft and hit his punching bag. That is until one Sunday morning a U-Haul pulled up front of the bar. “He left Portland with a U-Haul, basically escaping.” [Eames ended up in Brattleboro, opened another bar, and became known as the Beer King. He died at age 59 in 2007.] The Eames-era Deweys was filled with welcoming faces. “The employees ran the place. And that’s what was so good about it. People trusted one another, people were

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kind to one another. There were so many artists. They worked there, hung out there.” Musician Manny Verzosa was a name most everyone knew. He’s described as a “rising star” in a worn Press Herald clipping Sandy proffers. Manny died in a car accident at 30 on his way home from California. Sandy’s voice still carries a twinge of pain when talking about him. “He wrote a song, and I have it here,” she taps her heart. The song is about Portland and the Longfellow monument. “When I come home to my city by the sea, I’ll sit by you and I’ll talk of places I’ve seen…” Art Sandy describes Manny as having the Artfully s des gift of making everyone feel like the most designed off special person in the world. “He was also a offersbre be pain in the ass,” she smiles affectionately. breastma an “You had to sit with somebody if you mastecto rec wanted to sit,” says Sandy. “You had to talk reconstru Cal to the person next to you, across from you.” Call toda con She describes Claude Von Schmutz, one consulta of the bartenders who squatted across the street in an abandoned building. “The first night we met, he pulled off one of my turquoise boots and drank champagne out of it.” Why? “Because he was French, damn it.”

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“But we looked good,” says Sandy. In those days, we’d get dressed to the nines,” says Nancy. “You weren’t allowed in if you weren’t.” They reminisce about their get-ups and walking down fire escapes in platforms. “We might fall, but we looked good going down.” Oasis, The Underground, Page 1, The Maxx, the list goes on. All places to go and dance. Imagine that. People actually dressed up, went out, and danced. Together. “I’m so glad I grew up then,” Nancy sighs as front 10.19.10_BRADY 11/2/10 12:09 PM Page 1 the two come down from their laughter high. Sid, Sue, Sandy, and Nancy–each offers wned & me Operated Since 1936 a piece that, once put together, build a er 3rd Generation Ownership beautiful puzzle of a city I don’t recognize. And that’s okay. ItLicense wasn’t my Insured | Master Plumber 510city then. It wasn’t my time. But after hearing the stories of what Portland once was, who roamed its streets, and laughed in its bars, I’m making a promise to love what Portland has become. Hopefully, just maybe, when I revisit the memories years from now, I can laugh just as hard. “It was a young person’s town,” Sue smiles before we wrap our interview. “It still is, but I mean, in the ’80s it was great to be 20 in Portland, Maine.”

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M a de in Main e

Georgia O’Keeffe, Maine Artist Georgia O’Keeffe’s extraordinary York Beach paintings spanning 1922-1928 are part of her tumultuous love affair with life.

Above: Georgia O’Keeffe, hands by Alfred Stieglitz, 1918. Opposite, clockwise from top: Wave, Night, 1928, by Georgia O’Keeffe (1887–1986), oil on canvas, 30 x 36 in. (76.2 x 91.44 cm) which hangs in the Addison Gallery at Philips Andover Academy; Abstraction Seaweed and Water-Maine, 1920; and Red Hill and White Shell, 1938. 5 2 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

he sense of “Made in Maine” shapeshifts in front of our eyes. But Georgia O’Keeffe, a Maine painter? All you have to do is look at her 1928 painting Wave, Night to feel it. Between 1920 and 1928, O’Keeffe vacationed at a seaside guest house on Long Sands Beach in York for inspiration. It was here, in Maine, during torrid separations from her lover/mentor Alfred Stieglitz, that she not only painted Wave, Night but also first experienced the breakthrough that led her to paint sea shells, with their curves and involutions, distances and intimacies. Vividly, her letters from York Beach to Stieglitz appear in the book My Faraway One: Selected Letters of Georgia O’Keeffe and Alfred Stieglitz: Volume One, 1915-1933 (Beinecke Rare Book and Manuscript Library). They’re deeply personal and take us straight to her creative essence. As Hervé Fornieri (yes, the French performer) writes in his Amazon review of the collection, “The two most amazing letters in this book demonstrate the almost supernatural synchronicity between these two lovers and artists. The letters were written by O’Keeffe and Stieglitz on the same day, September 25, 1923, while she was visiting York Beach, Maine, and he was staying at their summer home at Lake George, New York, two hundred miles away. Unbeknownst to the other, of course, each had been utterly entranced by the same moonlit night–but O’Keeffe saw a colorful painting, and Stieglitz saw a black-and-white photograph. “O’Keeffe: ‘Last evening–walking on the beach at sunset I saw a pink moon–nearly full–grow out of the gray over the green sea–till it made a pink streak on the water–very faint– that told you where the ocean began and the soft gray blur of space was ended–And the moon grew hotter and hotter–and the path on the water brighter and brighter till it burned so that I didn’t want to look anymore…’ “Stieglitz: ‘It was a marvelous night. A white moonlight night. I never saw any night quite like it–none more beautiful– For a long while before going to bed I stood at your window looking lakeward–looking at the white silences–the white

CloCkwise from left: Alfred stieglitz; Addison gAllery of AmeriCAn Art, PhiliPs Andover ACAdemy; georgiA o’keeffe museum; georgiAokeeffe.net

BY COlin W. S arGe nt

night so silent. Nothing stirred. Even the moon full & round seemed not to wish to disturb the stillness–it seemed to be moving slowly upwards as if on tiptoes moving through a house of stillness at night when all inmates were fast asleep. All was so still–& the whiteness so lovely–The hills were not hills–they were something bathed in an untouchable spirit of light–the line produced where this spirit met the sky spirit was of rarest subtle beauty–Really I never saw anything quite so beautiful–I looked & looked & knew I was awake…’” “In 1927 she went alone to York Beach,” Roxana Robinson, author of Georgia O’Keeffe, A Life, shares. “It was a difficult time for her, as Stieglitz was deep in a relationship with Dorothy Norman. This was painful for O’Keeffe, and she left. Stieglitz went to find her there, the only time he ever visited the place.” His race to Maine was made easier because he was acquainted with Bennet and Marnie Schauffler [and Bennet’s parents, Charles and Florence Schauffler], who ran

the guest house where O’Keeffe was staying, in today’s geography near the Anchorage Inn and the Sea Latch. Robinson describes the view from the house as follows: “For Georgia, the trip to Maine was a revelation. Standing at the edge of the Atlantic Ocean, she felt again the bliss of a wide flat horizon, the sense of boundlessness and solitude that she had valued in Texas. The house was set with a cranberry bog between it and the ocean, with a boardwalk leading to the wide, clean beach. The house pleased Georgia: nearly empty, spare and plain, with

good, old rugs on the floors. Her own room looked out onto the ocean and the dawn. It held a big bed and a fireplace, stacked with

OctOber 2015 53

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birch logs. Georgia spent her days walking on the long, windy, empty beach, scavenging for odd bits that she brought back, set in platters of water, and painted. In the evening she watched for the lighthouse to begin its quiet, comforting rhythm across the nighttime sky and the wide, darkening beach, the deep black water.” Because O’Keeffe describes the lighthouse as far away on the horizon in one of her letters; it can only be Boon Island light. Considering the elastic curves of her art, it’s hard not to think of her stopping by the Goldenrod luncheonette–already decades old–watching spellbound as the taffy was stretched in the windows, and shyly walking in to buy candy kisses. In all, there were “four York Beach pictures,” according to Robinson. During this extraordinary period of psychic recovery and self-interrogation, she gathered herself to stun the art world. “From Georgia’s four weeks in Maine the haunting shell series was produced… [Her] ruminations on the theme of the shell range from the highly representational to the purely abstract. Most powerful are the clamshells, open and closed: small works, monumental images. In these, the clamshell’s seam is centered in the narrow perpendicular space. The sense of monumentality is achieved by the space given to the shell within the rectangle: the smooth enigmatic curves dominate, filling it entirely except for the corners… “It is possible to argue the vulval nature of these images–they are, it is true, interior chambers lined with soft and intimate surfaces. More central to their meaning, however, seems to be their essential qualities of openness and closedness. The cool inevitability of a closed shell, the quiet suspense of a barely opened one, are qualities far more compelling than a purely sexual interpretation would permit…” Other shell images bring to mind the inner ear, where you can almost hear these paintings. “Whether or not the series was meant to parallel O’Keeffe’s swift and abso-

from top: offered at christie’s, 2012; georgia o’keeffe museum

Above: Sun Water Maine, 1922. Opposite page: Shell No. 2, 1928.

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lute removal from Alfred–her insistent solCome see one of the largest itude and distance–the quiet shells made a furniture consignment stores in potent statement,” Robinson says. “NumiSouthern Maine! nous, serene, and dignified, they are com30 years experience in home furnishings pelling and mysterious images, enormously powerful, which resonate with a sense Hours Tues-Sat 10-6 of privacy, intimacy, and inner strength. Sun 10-4 If she was becoming increasingly aware of the threat posed by Alfred’s presence in her 161 Ocean Street South Portland, Me 04106 life, she was beginning to perceive her own 207-747-5112 strengths in response to that threat.” When we contacted Robinson about Night, A Wave, she ventured its value at Voted one of “several million” and commented, “The One of Maine’s top 5 New England’s Best Values painting is extraordinary. I have stood in rated courses by Golf Digest front of it for a long time; you tend to get lost in it. The effect is mesmerizing, as you lose your understanding of placement. I Auburn Maine don’t know another painting like it. In it O’Keeffe manipulates space and perception in a way that is profoundly sophisticated but also deeply moving, intellectually challenging and emotionally engaging. She interrogates the understanding of perception here, eliminating the ideas of foreground and distance without losing a sense of position. It is remarkably powerful in its combination of mystery and command. I’m not sure that it was a turning point; it was part of what she explored all her life–the sense of human relationship to the larger landscape, the balancing of man and nature, the sense of cosOur signature 5th hole, a 202 yd, par-3 island green beauty mic distance and deep velvety presence. It’s one of her most powerful works. Voted one of New England’s Best Values Georgia O’Keeffe didn’t just paint sea shells by the sea shore, she took great risks • Complete Pro Shop at York Beach and made its psychic geog• Rental Clubs raphy her own. Georgia O’Keeffe a Main• Fox Den Grill er? Finestkind. n

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A rt i s t At wor k

House island aerial: daniel Cassidy, seawolf Creative; from left: Ziggy (mary) Hartfelder; 5tH maine museum

Linked Connected narratives that comprise this provocative installation by Jo Israelson open a window to Portland’s golden door. So many seekers of a new home on this side of the Atlantic landed on House, once known as the Ellis Island of the North.

By Jo isrAels on

In The Artist Way, Julia Cameron writes about Synchronicity and Spirituality: Once you accept that it is natural to create, you can begin to accept a second idea: that the Creator will hand you whatever you need for the project. Be alert: there is a second voice, a higher harmonic, adding to and augmenting your inner creative voice. This voice frequently shows itself in synchronicity. And, there is a Chinese saying: No Coincidence, No Story. I am a storyteller. I tell stories through my art.

ThE PasT Is ProloguE did not learn the history of Munjoy Hill (“The Hill”), Maine immigration, or the Casco Bay islands until I came home to care for my mom, Caroline Borofsky Israelson.

OctOber 2015 57

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A rt i s t At w o r k Over the course of a week of packing and moving her to an assisted-living facility, I encountered little-known facts about my neighborhood, my hometown, my heritage. Sitting in the middle of the room were the boxes of unsorted and unlabeled photographs. My mom picked one up: “This is a photo of the synagogue your great-grandfather started.” Etz Chaim? My great-grandfather, Philip Levinsky. Why don’t I know I this? A week later, while kayaking in Casco Bay, my guide remarks: “House Island was known as the ‘Ellis Island of the North.’ In November of 1923, 218 immigrants were diverted to Casco Bay, Maine.” House Island–immigrants detained and quarantined. Why don’t I know about this? I stumble across this paragraph researching House Island. “When immigrant ships landed in Portland in 1923 and 1924, and the passengers were maintained on House Island, the Portland Council of Jewish Women set up kosher kitchens there… They also assisted immigrants in entering this country…” Beautiful For Kosher kitchens? ImmigrantFood assistance? Why don’t I know about this?!

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CoinCidenCe, part 2 he Etz Chaim Synagogue at the bottom of The Hill has recently been restored. Changing demographics, Beautiful Food changing politics, changing economics led to the shuttering of its doors. It reopened as an “inclusive” synagogue and the Maine Jewish Museum. I make an appointment to meet with the curator, Nancy Davidson. I tell her I am an artist. I tell her about my great grandfather. I tell her about House Island. I broach the idea

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CloCkwise from left: meaghan mauriCe; Ziggy (mary) hartfelder (2); meaghan mauriCe; james r. solomon

On opening night of the “Welcoming the Stranger”exhibit by artist Jo Israelson at the Maine Jewish Museum, attendees pass under Abraham’s Tent in the foyer.

of creating a piece for the museum. (When my mom was in high school, she spent summers as an au pair. One of her charges was the Maine Jewish Museum curator: Now, why didn’t I know about that?) I am not sure if the “Coincidence Coordinator” is at work here. But there is a Yiddish word to describe what I am experiencing: Beshart–loosely translated as “meant to be.” Welcoming the Stranger In the Bible, the Quran, and Torah, there are mandates to welcome those who come in need–of food, of shelter, of protection. My previous artwork has examined family relations, untold secrets, little-known histories. I make connections between seemingly disparate pieces of information. The stories in my show Welcoming the Stranger: Building Understanding Through Community Based Art, presented at the Jewish Museum through October 26, are told in a site-specific art installation. Abraham’s Tent greets visitors at the entrance to the Museum. It is an installaOctOber 2015 59

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A rtist At W o rk tion of textiles, sound recordings, and floor coverings. Weave the Tent events occurred throughout Portland to create the concurrent community exhibit and accompanying public events. Sarah’s Generosity presents the history of the Jewish women who created a kosher kitchen on House Island. Each woman’s story is told in images transferred onto aprons. Habeas Corpus presents the modern-day stories of immigrant cab drivers in Portland. Their voices will tell the story of all immigrants–current and past–and told from a taxi cab. n my way to my studio, I walk along the same streets where the Irish, Italian, Greek, and Jewish immigrants lived when they first arrived in Portland. They were asylum seekers and refugees–escaping a life of persecution and poverty to provide their families a better life. Today, new Mainers live on those same streets. They too are asylum seekers and refugees–who follow in the footsteps of those early immigrants. I am a storyteller. I tell stories through my art. I create artworks about small moments in history that reflect larger issues within a contemporary context. The role of the House Island quarantine station and those who welcomed the stranger may serve us as we find our own ways to welcome the stranger today. n

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Visit the “Welcoming The Stranger” exhibit at the Maine Jewish Museum at 267 Congress Street in Portland (773-2339, mainejewishmuseum.org) through October 26. Portland native Jo Israelson is a multi-media installation artist and stone sculptor with a degree from the University of Maryland.

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Lively Ferments Naturally fermented food is an age-old preservation tradition the world over. So how did it become such a hot trend? Join the culture club. By ClairE Z. CramEr

e’re sitting in Urban Farm Fermentory’s cavernous tasting room at the warehouse headquarters on Anderson Street in Portland’s industrial-hip epicenter: East Bayside. The floor is cement; the bar is made of salvaged pallet lumber (speaking of trends). There are two rows of taps in front of us, none of them beer. These are

Right, top: Nosh’s reuben sandwich is spiked with their house-made sauerkraut. Below: A flight of flavored kombuchas at Urban Farm Fermentory.

ciders, meads, and kombuchas. Kombucha is a naturally fermented beverage containing “good” bacteria that are beneficial to human digestion; it’s slightly fizzy and contains 1.5% alcohol by volume. UFF is among the very few kombucha producers that do not pasteurize (heat) the beverage, which kills the alcohol and the live ferment. UFF’s Kombucha is “probiotic,” and probiotic food and drink is cutting-edge healthy, whereas pasteurized, mass-market kombucha is little more than a feel-good soft drink. We sign on for flights–“four picks for $3”–and choose an assortment of flavored kombuchas and ciders, which are also fermented and a bit higher in alcohol–more OctOber 2015 63

like 6.5%. “The flavors are all from locally grown or foraged things,” says bartender Lilia Garcelon. “So there can be flavor variations from batch to batch.” She delivers paddle boards with four small jars of colorful liquid nested in each. A sip of ginger kombucha is bright and refreshing. Mountain mint is subtle and earthy rather than mouthwash-flavored. Blueberry tastes of real Maine berries, and, like all of UFF’s offerings, it’s noticeably unsugary. A sip of roasted tomato kombucha is improbably savory and tasty, but our next selection is not. Seaweed cider is about as close as you can get to accidentally swallowing seawater at the beach. “We distribute as far as Massachusetts and Vermont,” says operations manager Luke Finnemore. Locally, find UFF’s beverages at Whole Foods, Aurora Provisions, and the Rosemont markets. Or pick up a growler right at the Fermentory, where you can request your own flavor mix. “Blueberry-ginger is big,” says Garcelon. EvEn on thE half-shEll t Eventide Oyster on Middle Street, where the servers are all good-looking and the food is way above average, the menu is shot through with Asian influences–there’s dashi chowder, fried mussels nam prik, and Thai fried chicken to name a few. Kimchi–once known as a fiery pickled cabbage condiment for Korean food–is made here for use as a garnish and as a side dish. Half-inch ribbons of green cabbage, carrot matchsticks, and shredded onion are “salted down, then rinsed and drained,” says a prep cook who is garnishing whole lobster tails in their shells behind the counter. “Then it’s seasoned with Korean chili paste, ginger, and a few other things, and fermented for a few days.” Three feet away, a tall, willowy woman with a ponytail is serenely shucking oysters.

“They put a bit of shrimp paste in the kimchi, too,” she says. This is spicy stuff in the range of cayenne heat, with a sour tang that comes from fermentation rather than vinegar, and one heck of an aftertaste. You can have kimchi ice on your oysters here. It looks like a little cup of coral-colored sorbet, but it has more zing and nuance. Kimchi is all over town–in the Japanese creations at Pai Men Miyake, even on the “Seoul Dog” hotdog at the Blue Rooster. fErmEnting vs. pickling Like sauerkraut, kimchi is lacto-fermented It’s made in a simple, traditional fermentation process that involves no vinegar or sugar. Instead, starches and sugars in the vegetables are converted into lactic acid through the fermenting process. Lactic acid is a natural preservative that prevents rotting, which is why kraut and salt-brined pickles last so long. Modern food processing introduced vinegar as a pickling/preservative, which is fine but lacks the digestive benefit and adds no healthy “flora” to your intestinal tract. Miso is another probiotic food created

through the lacto-fermenting of grains and soybeans. The Rosemont markets–a good source of assorted fresh fermented food and drink–carry a fresh, unpasteurized light miso made in Canada in the fridge case. The container has a recipe on the side for a salad dressing made with miso. No longer confined to the hot cup of broth that precedes a sushi meal, miso is widely used in or on roasted meats, sauces, noodles, and other dishes now. farm frEsh fErmEnt Live, fermented, digestion-friendly foods are big business at the farmers’ market in Deering Oaks on Saturdays. Thirty Acre Farm has a shelf of jars– “Ferments–$7/$12,” reads a handwritten sign. They’ve got sauerkraut, jalapenospiked kraut, and bright red “ruby kraut.” There are jars of fermented carrots and bottles of fermented hot sauce. airy farmers have displays of unpasteurized, old-fashioned yogurt– it’s full-fat, rich, and delicious, with cream on top. At Swallowtail Farm’s stand, you can choose fresh classic style, Greekstyle, or fruit-flavored cow’s-milk yogurt

meaghan maurice

Kimchi ice is the new cocktail sauce for shellfish at Eventide Oyster.

6 4 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Hun gry E yE sold in glass jars. There is even kefir, a probiotic dairy drink that looks like milk but is said to be more refreshing. And apparently quite popular. The kefir sells briskly at Swallowtail’s busy stand. “It’s a really good drink,” says owner Sean Pignatello, who is also a cheesemaker. “Yep, Irish/Italian,” he says of his name. Is this why he was drawn to making cheese? “It’s not why, but it’s why I’m good at it!” Suffice it to say, if you try his yogurt and ricotta salata, a second-place winner in a national cheese competition, you’ll buy some. Nearby, David Buchanan is making fruit smoothies at the Old Ocean House Farm stand. He’s whirring up his own fresh berries with a bit of yogurt from Balfour Farms in Pittsfield. Buchanan is the author of Taste, Memory, about the value of heirloom fruits and vegetables. He uses apples from his Pownal orchard to make dry ciders he sells under the Portersfield label. “I ferment the fruit about six months,” he says. The Anconia (berries and apples) flavored cider is not a dessertwine novelty. “It’s dry and astringent–drink it like you would a rosé.” He’s right–this cider, tinted pale pink from the berries, is delicious and subtle. Washington County Wisdom “I don’t know how, but it’s taken off,” says Rachel Bell of Tide Mill Creamery. She’s talking about kefir. “I gave it a try seven years ago, and I loved it. It’s much more like yogurt than milk in taste–effervescent, with a fizzy tang.” Bell and her husband Nate Horton operate Tide Mill Creamery on a large, extended-family farm in Edmund, a hamlet between Machias and Calais. “We make cheese and yogurt here; we have cows and goats. We raise pigs and sell whey-fed pork. When we started producing kefir, we wanted to do it the traditional way. You put culture into cow’s milk, and we use nice glass bottles. Digestive benefit? Oh, yeah, way more than yogurt.” She says kefir actually contributes positive microbes that can stay in your digestive system. “My dad had terrible stomach problems and took medication for years. Now he feels great and just drinks kefir every week; it seems to have cured it.” Tide Mill also produces and distributes sauerkraut, kimchi, yogurt, and their Little Bloom camembert-style cow/goat cheese statewide. Find it at the Rosemonts and Portland Food Coop. n

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elting the melting pot. Care to join me? I am thinking the melting pot is what needs to be melted, not the various cultures reputed to be congealed into a sloppy mess inside the proverbial melting pot. Let’s just put the pot on to boil and wait to see how long it takes for the myth of the melting pot to melt. Why melt the pot? Let’s just say it’s meltable. It is not a truth. Not even close. The melting pot is a blocked, a stymied, a waylaid excuse–a bogus recipe for cultural interventions or interactions. Once culture is “melted,” a nothing-to-see-here attitude can prevail. All gone…no cultural diversity– only the soup of commonality. Except that is not a true truth. Not all cultures are alike, and not even one culture in and of itself is the same for all who are in that culture. There are better recipes and better ways to understand the differences that exist even within a culture such as French heritage. So I say, let’s put the melting pot idea down in its final resting place and believe instead in the culture’s ability to go beyond the stereotypes and be seen as a living and breathing entity–full of enticing, lovely, exquisite diversities. n Rhea Côté Robbins is the author of Down the Plains, in which she examines her own diversity in her French heritage.

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Dining guiDe

Brea lu Cafe has been serving up breakfast & lunch for 25 years! Favorite menu choices include 12 speciality omelettes, build-your-own breakfast burritos, Belgian waffles with fruit, eggs Benedict & homemade corned beef hash. enjoy a pint sized bloody mary, mimosa, or irish coffee while you feast on your favorite breakfast. open daily, 7am-2pm. 428 Forest ave., Portland, 772-9202. Bruno’s Voted Portland’s Best italian Restaurant by market Surveys of america, Bruno’s offers a delicious variety of classic italian, american, and seafood dishes– and they make all of their pasta in-house. great sandwiches, pizza, calzones, soups, chowders, and salads. enjoy lunch or dinner in the dining room or the tavern. Casual dining at its best. 33 allen ave., 878-9511. Bull Feeney’s authentic irish pub & restaurant, serving delicious from-scratch sandwiches, steaks, seafood & hearty irish fare, pouring local craft & premium imported brews, as well as maine’s most extensive selection of single malt Scotch & irish whiskeys. live music five nights. open 7 days, 11:30am-1am. Kitchen closes at 10pm. 375 Fore St., old Port, 773-7210, bullfeeneys.com diMillo’s C’mon. now through December, relax and enjoy head Chef melissa Bouchard’s masterful creations. every day, she offers something new and delicious. try our early Dinner Specials, mondayFriday or our wonderful Port Side lounge, Portland’s getaway for grownups. happy hour includes a special menu monday-Friday, 4-7pm. open daily at 11am, Commercial St., old Port, 772-2216. always FRee PaRKing while aboard. Eve’s at the Garden, an oasis of calm and great food in the middle of the old Port. the perfect spot for meetings, special occasions, and a cocktail. ingredients from maine’s waters and farms: jumbo

6 8 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

RestauRant RestauRant Review Review Diane DianeHudson Hudson

scallops, natural, sustainable pork, beef, fish, and shellfish, and Maine lobster. Home to the annual Ice bar, eve’s garden is perfect for outdoor dining in season. Happy Hour Mon. - Fri.; free valet parking. Lunch 11:30am-2pm, Dinner 5-9:30pm. 468 Fore St., Portland, 775-9090, evesatthegarden.com Great Lost Bear A full bar with 70 beer taps of Maine & American craft breweries & a large belgian selection. Menu features salads, burgers, a large vegetarian selection & the best nachos & buffalo wings in town. Discover where the natives go when they’re restless! every day 11:30am-11:30pm. 540 Forest Ave., in the Woodfords area of Portland, 772-0300, greatlostbear.com Hurricane Restaurant features the finest seafood and New england cooking on Maine’s coast. Serving lunch and dinner seven days a week. Sunday brunch ‘til 3:30pm. Discover our award-winning wine list, enjoy $10 off every bottle of wine on Wednesdays. Wicked good house-made pastries, signature cocktails, and extraordinary five-star New england cuisine. reservations strongly suggested. Dock Square, Kennebunkport, 967-9111, hurricanerestaurant.com Kon Asian Bistro Steakhouse & Sushi Bar is upscale Asian with modern flair. Japanese, Sushi, thai, chinese–or try our hibachi tables. Our private party room accommodates groups from business meetings to birthday parties. choose fresh, delicious items and enjoy our entertaining chefs preparing your meal in front of you. Family friendly; open Mon.-thurs. 11:30am-10pm, Fri. to 11pm, Sat. 1pm-11:00pm, Sun. 11:30am-9:30pm. 874-0000, konasianbistrome.com Maria’s Ristorante is Portland’s original classic Italian restaurant. Greg and tony Napolitano are always in house preparing classics like Zuppa de Pesce, eggplant Parmigian, Grilled Veal Sausages, Veal chop Milanese, homemade cavatelli pastas, Pistachio Gelato, Limoncello cake, and Maine’s best Meatballs. Prices $11.95 - $22.95. tue.-Sat. starting at 5pm. catering always available. 337 cumberland Ave. 772-9232, www.mariasrestaurant.com Pedro’s focuses on simple yet full-flavored Mexican and Latino food. Offering tacos, burritos and an impressive array of margaritas, sangria, beer, and wine. especiales de la semana (specials of the week) keep the menu varied and fresh and showcase different Latino cultures. Seasonal outdoor dining available. Open daily, 12pm-10pm. 181 Port rd., Kennebunk, 967-5544, pedrosmaine.com Pier 77 & The Ramp Bar & Grill are owned & managed by Kate & chef Peter Morency. Pier 77 has a formal dining room with stunning views of cape Porpoise Harbor & live music each weekend, while the ramp is more casual, with its own bar menu at hard-to-beat prices. Open year-round. 77 Pier rd., Kennebunkport, 967-8500, pier77restaurant.com *

From Top: marTin delicca (2); diane Hudson

*reservations recommended

Scratch-made Nice People Totally Authentic l Feeney’s Bulportland’s pub 773.7210 375 Fore Street in the old Port Facebook.com/bullFeeneyS @bullFeeneyS

Italian Renaissance

A proven winner triumphs in the Lower Village in the Kennebunks.

estaurateur Sante Calandri made the first Ports of Italy the go-to restaurant in Boothbay Harbor, and now he takes on Kennebunk, razing the former’s Bartley’s Dockside Restaurant and completely transforming the spot, with no expense spared, into an elegant dining space with a warm and inviting bar. Our server suggests a Bellini, and the pretty prosecco/peach affair is just the ticket to start us off as we peruse the menu and wine list. Seeking a robust red, we find Avignonesi Noble de Montepulciano, 2011, $58. Daily specials–an absolute must here– are lovingly prepared by co-owner and chef German Lucarelli. Carciofi alla Romana (Roman-style artichoke, $11) is a rare delicacy deliciously prepared with garlic, parmesan cheese, olive oil, and fresh mint. Frittelle di Fiori di Zucca ($14)–zucchini blossoms stuffed with taleggio, mozzarella, and anchovies–are fried to perfection. Bellissimo! We enjoy homemade focaccia and ciabatta dipped in extra virgin olive oil flecked with bits of kalamata olives in a stunning sauce. Tender local mussels (Cozze, $13) excite with sambuca, lobster bisque, cherry tomatoes, basil, and dill. Next up, Cavatelli ($21), terrific pasta dumplings made with fresh ricotta and par-

mesan cheese, with Italian sausage made at Shields, the town butcher, that is braised with garlic, broccolini, basil, and veal stock. Shields also supplies the Berkshire pork belly skin surrounding the Porchetta ($23), delicious roasted suckling pig seasoned with fresh herbs and fennel seeds, the whole served with patatas al forno (roasted potatoes) and roasted vegetables. The sweet ending is one fine Tiramisu della Nonna ($9) with mascarpone and Marsala wine; and Panna Cotta al Frutti della Stagione ($8), velvety smooth custard served with luscious raspberries and blueberries. Kennebunk’s “Ports” sizzles with the same success enjoyed by the ambitious, creative Calandri at his first endeavor. n Ports of Italy, The Kennebunks, 4 Western Ave., Kennebunk. Mon-Sun, 12pm-10pm, 204-0365, portsofitaly.com O c t O b e r 2015 69

Tea and Biscuits

•

Candy and Confections

•

Toiletries and Fragrances

•

Gifts

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Samhain, Oct. 31 • Di ew Year, Oct. 15 • wali, Nov. 11 • Thanksgiving, Nov. 26

Islamic N 2015:

Holiday Gifts & Events Guide

hi Day, Dec. 8 • Winter Solstice, Dec. 22 • Ch c. 6-Dec. 14 • Bod ristmas, Dec. 25 Hanukkah, De

16: New Year’s Day, Jan. 1 • Epiphany, Jan. 6 • M

6-Jan. 1 • 20 Kwanzaa, Dec. 2

akar Sankranti, Ja n. 14

Mahayana New Year, Jan. 24 • Chinese New Year, Feb. 8 • Mardi Gras, Feb. 9 Persian New Year, Mar. 20 • Easter, Mar. 27 • Thai

New Year, Apr. 13

Cambodian N ew Year, Apr. 13 • Passover, Apr. 22-30

Warm your heart and celebrate the merry season in Downtown Portland & the Old Port…

Retail Details

Don’t Miss

• Monument Square Tree Lighting - Nov. 27, 5:30 pm

Top: Corey TempleTon; gifT phoTos assoCiaTed wiTh respeCTive Company unless oTherwise noTed

• The Nutcracker, Maine State Ballet Nov. 28 & 29; Dec. 4, 5, & 6 • The Snow Queen, Portland Stage Company, Dec. 5-Dec. 23 • The Nutcracker, Atlantic Ballet Company, Camden Opera House, Dec. 3

Heat Things Up Not too hot. Extra chocolate. Shaken, not stirred. Why is it that the people with the special orders are always standing in front of us in line? Spice things up with an Aztec Hot Chocolate from Dean’s Sweets ($10.50 for 9 oz., 475 Fore St., deanssweets.com). Celebrate the anniversary of December 16, 1773 with a Boston Tea Party blend from Dobra ($5 a pot, Dobra Tea, 89 Exchange St., dobrateame.com), or get your caffeine fix in a festive way with holiday coffees from Coffee by Design, featuring flavors such as Frosty’s Favorite and Jingle Bell Java ($15.50 for 16oz., Coffee by Design, 1 Diamond St., coffeebydesign.com).

• Copper Beech Tree Lighting, Dec. 5 • Merry Madness, Dec. 10, 5-10 pm • The Nutcracker, Bossov Ballet, Dec. 11-13

Taste Bud Teaser

Featuring five different flavors–Pucker Patch, Cotton Candy, Root Beer, Marshmallow Krispy Treat, and New England Berries, this high-fiber sampler pack from Coastal Maine Popcorn is a high-fiver for adventurous souls; $14.99 for a 5-pack, 114 Main Street, Freeport & 43 Exchange St., Portland coastalmainepopcorn.com

• The Victorian Nutcracker, Portland Ballet, Dec. 12, 13 & 16 • Magic of Christmas, Portland Symphony Orchestra, Dec. 11-13; 18-20 • Sparkle Weekend, Freeport, Dec. 4-6 • Christmas Prelude, Kennebunkport Dec. 4-13 • Christmas by the Sea, Ogunquit, Dec. 11-13 O C T O b E r 2015 7 1

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Draw Me a Bath

Plunge into the tub with these Lavender Bath Salts from the Salt Cellar; antiseptic lavender helps to soothe dry skin that comes with a maine winter ($10, Salt Cellar, 172 middle St., saltcellar.com). Add a warm glow with a soy candle from The Primitive Keeper, hand-poured in maine and available in scents such as Black Raspberry Vanilla and gingered Bergamot ($16 for 16 oz. candle, primitivekeeper.com).

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Holiday Gifts & Events Guide

Great Outdoors Port Mag_Layout 1 8/7/2015 10:17 AM Page 1

Books & Gifts for Thoughtful Living

SHERMAN S ________________________________________________________________

BOOKS & STATIONERY Bar Harbor Boothbay Harbor Camden Freeport Portland www.shermans.com

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Sunny with a slight chance of snow…

Sample our extraordinary perspective. portlandmagazine.com/subscribe • 1-855-767-8624 7 4 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

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Holiday Gifts & Events Guide …in the flickering windows and snow-dusted streets…

The Preppy Handbag Traditional red and black buffalo check plaid is reworked into one of many Sea Bags totes, famous for their recycled sails. $165-$185, Sea Bags, 25 Custom House Wharf, seabags.com.

Dance with the Stars Hand-cut glass stars by Christine McGrath to brighten your holidays. $32 for 7 inch stars. Compliments Gallery, Dock Square, Kennebunkport. complimentsgallery.com

Take Take home home home more moremore than thanthan aaamemory… memory… a memory… TakeTake home more than memory...

Enjoy the signature tastes of Maine

O U ’L L S WHAT Y W O N K O .. . WH ME FROM TAKE HO

wherever you are! Call or click MaineLobsterDirect.com... the ultimate source for fresh Maine lobster. Our premium, hard-shell Maine lobster is harvested daily from the cold, clear waters of the North Atlantic and shipped overnight throughout North America. Stop by our wharf and we’ll pack your order to travel or click/call us when you get home. We We Wewelcome welcome welcomewalk-in walk-in walk-in We welcome orders—large orders—large orders—large walk-inor or or orders—large small small smalland and andgladly gladly gladly or small supply supply supply andrestaurants restaurants restaurants gladly supply and and and restaurants caterers. caterers. caterers. and caterers.

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7 6 p o r t l a n d M o n T H ly M a G a z i n e

Ta xid erm y nta ge Po stc ard s • oto gra ph ica Ra re Bo ok s • Viue Ph • ies dit Od • Po ste rs • An tiq s CA M DE N, M AI NE 23 BA YV IE W ST-. go ose riv @ mi dco ast .co m 20 7.2 36 .33 45

Holiday Gifts & Events Guide Help TAVECCHIA Boutique

…eavesdropping on wonders too wonderful not to pursue.

Spend $100 or more Friday, October 2nd through Sunday, October 11th and receive a FREE save the ta-tas shirt. While supplies last! To honor the survivors and spread awareness about breast cancer, TAVECCHIA will have a great selection of pink ribbon merchandise to buy for yourself or a friend! Every purchase made of licensed merchandise goes to help fund awareness, treatment and research through various organizations. Visit www.TheBreastCancerSite.org and www.savethetatas.org for more information on where the money goes.

The Way Totes Should Be Featuring elegant and casual dresses, sportswear, handbags, shoes, jewelry and accessories for ladies of all generations.

Shoulder your love for our state with this natural tote bag, designed and silkscreened in Portland; $20, 6 Free Street, pineconeandchickadee.com

52 Exchange Street, Portland • (207) 772-1699 • tavecchiaboutique.com

47 Exchange St Portland, ME 888 - 560 - TOYS

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207-592-4775

Holiday Gifts & Events Guide

Maybe Just a Sip… In the mood for something a little stronger? Cuddle up next to the fire and drink like a Norse god with a HoneyMaker Elderberry Mead from Maine Mead Works ($17/bottle, Maine Mead Works, 51 Washington Ave., mainemeadworks. com). Or enjoy Rising Tide’s d’Hiver winter saison-style ale, brewed with rye and spices to produce a rich mahogany pour ($3 for a 12 oz. bottle, Rising Tide Brewing Company, 103 Fox St., risingtidebrewing. com). Ring in the holidays with Cranberry Smash from Sweetgrass, a customer favorite cranberry brandy-fortified cranberry wine ($17 for 375 ml bottle, Sweetgrass Winery, 324 Fore St., sweetgrasswinery.com). Hoodie Ad.indd 1

8/6/15 2:00 AM

O C T O B e R 2015 7 9

Holiday Gifts & Events Guide

Winterberry Warmth Custom suits, no compromises.

Woven in maine from organic merino wool and alpaca, dyed with cochineal and madder root, this hand-loomed throw will bring the colors of the maine coast to any winter couch soirée; $495, Swans island, 231 atlantic highway (US Route 1), northport, swansislandcompany.com.

Cute Crock

the Petite heart Cocotte from le Creuset is perfect for your own little mac ‘n’ cheese or sweet crème caramel. $25, 8oz., le Creuset, 283 US Route 1, Kittery, lecreuset.com.

( 2 0 7 ) 7 7 3 - 3 9 06 davi dwo o d . co m

…eavesdropping on wonders too wonderful not to pursue.

Casual ElEganCE in Portland’s WEst End FEaturing: -upstairs private dining room for groups of 10-50, with cathedral ceilings and expansive views of Casco Bay. -Happy Hour at the bar tue-sat 5pm-7pm $5 appetizer specials & $5 drink specials

tuEs-tHurs 5:00P-10:00P | Fri-sat 5:00P-11:00P | sunday BrunCH 10:00 - 3:00P 231 york st. Portland, MainE | 207-747-4166 outliErsEatEry.CoM 8 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

8 2 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

House of tHe MontH Colin W. Sargent

Sand Castle Colin W.Sargent; inSet: françioS

For $2.375M, the first ‘cottage’ ever built on Gooch’s Beach in Kennebunk.

ugene Lafleur was a legendary lawyer in Montreal when he fell in love with Gooch’s Beach in Kennebunk. To get his yearly fix of Maine, he brought his extended family here for scores of summers, maid and butler included, and rented a full floor every summer at the Sagamore Hotel, later the Sea Spray.

Lafleur became such a pal of the hotelier that in 1894 he let slip to Mr. Gooch that he was looking for the perfect lot to build his dream getaway. “If we keep up this way, we’ll have to buy a house!” Gooch, whose family had owned and cherished the beach and its O c t O b e r 2015 83

L.P.Appliance and Service 54 Bridgton Road Westbrook Maine 207-797-3621 L.P.Appliance and Service 54 Bridgton Road Westbrook Maine 207-797-3621

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dunes since the Colonists spirited it away from the Native Americans, said, “You’ve been such a loyal guest, just pick a lot. My treat. It’s yours!” Now that’s swag. Gooch ended up giving Lafleur such a luscious lot–directly on the beach and north of the hotel itself–that the seagulls are still squawking about it. The creation of this sand castle, one of a kind in Maine, started in 1895. From the beginning, both the materials and the shape were revolutionary. An engineering marvel, it was designed to be storm-proof, rated at winds of 125 miles per hour. The beams were, and are, 14 inches thick. Still in perfect condition, the wood and paneling were delivered by rail from Vancouver Island, British Columbia. Douglas fir glowed in the built-ins. The stunning wrap-around porch and deck grabbed huge views of the Colony Hotel (then the Breakwater Court) across the Kennebunk River as well as the heart of the bowl or crescent of the beach that is shimmeringly front and center. Local shipbuilders created the signature curved roof ends by steaming them at the shipyard. The final touch? Red-cedar shingles. When this emperor’s boathouse was unveiled in 1896, it was the first “cottage” on Gooch’s 47552 Beach. The enormous Romanesque arch in the paneled living room, with Inglenook seats built in to either side, is beyond just the perfect place to enjoy a crisp fall. “If I could have that nook, and then the bay window to look at the sea, it would be…” A visitor goes silent. “I just love it.” The dining room also

47552

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47552

The diamond mullions used to go across the front dormers as well and are worth tracking down.

faces the beach, as well as the library. Upstairs, there are five-plus bedrooms so classic Ralph Lauren ought to do a photo shoot up there. Sixty years later, the Lafleurs sold 93 Beach Avenue, called The Lafleur House or The Boathouse, to François Guertin’s family, only the second family to live here in 8 4 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

From leFt: Colin W. Sargent; jeSSe Stenbak (4)

House of tHe MontH

120 years. “When Eugene Lafleur owned it, the lot went all the way from the beach to Gooch’s Creek. They had cows for milk. Lafleur passed away in 1929, during the stock market crash. Coincidence, maybe? He was involved with the stock exchanges in Montreal, Toronto. His law firm still exists. “My father was shown the house by Charlie Cole. He walked around the place and bought it in 15 minutes, for $16,000, from Mr. Lafleur’s daughter, with negotiations by telephone.” Not only did François grow up here, he undoubtedly holds the land-speed record for the time it takes to drive from Quebec to Gooch’s Beach. For mere mortals, it’s a strong five hours. But when he wasn’t working in the Guertin family feed mill business, still a thriving concern, he was a driver on the Trans-Am circuit, all over the eastern U.S. and across Canada. As his love for Kennebunk deepened with his driving skills, he took the time from five hours down to…

four hours. “First, I drove back and forth in my sister’s 1965 MGA. She was traveling and left me her car for a full summer. Then, I got a jade-green 1965 Formula 5 Plymouth Barracuda.” Four hours, lighting up Route 26 to and from the Canadian border. “Then I bought Roger Penske’s Camaro Z-28.” Did anybody even whisper three hours? “It’s impossible to do that anymore,” he says. What about speeding tickets? He smiles. What police car could have

caught up with him? “My father died in 1977,” he said, “my mother two years later.” It’s been a great run for François, who loves the house so much he provided much of the historical background for the beginning of this article. But it’s time to sell,” and in this case 93 Beach Avenue is for sale by owner. The price is $2.375 million. For directions to this house ask any surfer in Maine. Taxes are: $12,702. n

O c t O b e r 2015 85

New eNglaNd Homes & living

BARTERS ISLAND WATERFRONT

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30 yea rs 2015

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CABIN GETAWAY | BOOTHBAY HARBOR

Sturdy 1,932sf cottage on Linekin Bay. Plenty of room, 4 BRs, 2 BA, fully furnished with access to Sprucewold Beach & dock. $465,000

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3 BR home on 4.6 acres with 362’ tidal frontage. Cherry & granite kitchen, living room with fireplace, & hardwood floors. $1,450,000

BACK RIVER | BOOTHBAY

Level lot with 250’ of Back River frontage. Stone FP, gas ‘woodstove’, 2-3 BRs, 2 BA, screened porch, 2-car garage with apartment. $529,000

MILL COVE | BOOTHBAY HARBOR

Waterfront 3BR, 2BA w/spacious deck, bright kitchen, large living room, hardwood floors, & stone fireplace. Separate apartment. $475,000

Scan to view more listings

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Beautifully designed contemporary home features single ﬂoor living with 9’ ceilings, hardwood ﬂoors, custom kitchen, sun room, master suite and more. The perfect patio surrounds the salt water pool and hot tub. $525,000.

HARPSWELL

Privately situated on a well landscaped lot along the tidal waters of Spruce Cove, this contemporary home offers an open ﬂoor plan, wood ﬂoors, lovely kitchen, master suit, solar panels and much more! $564,500.

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Private Maine Island–escape from the hectic world of stress. Live off the grid in this light-ﬁlled cottage and relax in your own paradise of pristine woods, rugged ledges and 1,400 feet of deep water shore front on the New Meadows River. $600,000.

SPRUCE LEDGES is perfect for the yachtsman or any buyer seeking quality craftsmanship! The architect-designed cottage sits near the water’s edge overlooking your boat, dock and mooring. The ridge behind provides a lovely carriage house and perfect home site. $695,000.

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New eNglaNd Homes & living

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MOOSE HORN CAMP in Spring Lake Township Vintage, 4-bedroom cedar log lodge with guest house and outbuildings. Property surrounds nearly the entire 42-acre Upper Shaw Pond. Miles of internal roads and trails within a 564-acre forest for hunting and hiking. Close to Flagstaff Lake. $849,000

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Alfred Waterfront Estate 2 BR, 3 BA plus 2 separate guest homes $2,250,000

Cape Elizabeth Stonegate Shingle Style 4 BR, 2 Full BA, 1 Half BA $739,000

Portland Historic West Mansion 9 BR, 5 Full BA, 1 Half BA $2,795,000

John Hatcher • The Hatcher Group 6 Deering Street, Portland, Maine 04101 207-775-2121• John@JohnHatcher.us • www.JohnHatcher.us

october 2015 89

“You’re Home in Maine”

Chrysa specializes in relocation, vacation & luxury properties. She also has the network to market your luxury or historic property internationally–a necessityChrysa in our Baker globalchrysa@kw.com economy. 207.553.2472

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207.318.3421 www.BridgetteVermette.com “We recently had the good fortune to work with Chrysa Baker of Keller Williams Portland to sell

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eller ealty ortland RE/MAX BY THE BAY |house The Common at 88 Middle St.,was Portland, ME | cbaker@homesinmaine.com homesinmaine.com ourilliams in Falmouth. Chrysa aeawall pleasaure to t work with and did a| fantastic job of marketing

our house and helping us to get the best price for our property. Her knowledge of the market and conﬁdence made us feel very comfortable in listing our house with her. She was aggressive but not overbearing and respected our needs and desires. Her ideas onn staging made all the difference in the overall marketing of our home and property. Due to her excellent marketing strategies, we were able to sell our property in one week. What often is a very stressful process was overall very smooth and stress free thanks to Chrysa’s knowledge and guidence. We highly recommend her to anyone looking to sell their property.” –Len & Leslie wallace

Chrysa Baker | chrysa@kw.com | 207.553.2472 www.chrysabaker.com | 207.653.6220

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An Open Invitation

file photo

y father died this year. No one who knew us would have said we were close. He and my mother divorced thirty years ago, shortly after I had left our New Jersey home to pursue my life. Not long after that he remarried suddenly and settled in a small coastal town in Maine to restart his own life. “Good,” my brothers and I joked. “That ought be enough distance for everyone.” Over the next few decades my dad and I saw each other rarely. We spoke only occasionally. Yet when we did, he always invited

Words By Andrew McCarthy

me up to Maine. “An open invitation, Pal,” he would shout into the phone. “It’s glorious here. Come on up.” I would demur, and the strain of a scarred past and an unrealized present would rise up quickly. Rather than shine light on what was and wasn’t there, we rushed off the line and back to our individual lives.

As my own children grew, they began asking why they had never met Grandpa–I could give them no reason good enough, so one summer morning we set out for Thomaston. On that lone trip north we were received graciously, if tentatively. My kids loved meeting their grandfather and his wife. I found it odd that scattered around his home were long-forgotten relics from my childhood—a chair, a small painting of a boat, a bookcase. “How had O c t O b e r 2015 93

words

these things gotten here, into this strange house,” I thought to myself as I wandered from room to room. While pleasant, our brief visit didn’t engender a passion in either of us to bridge whatever gap the years had etched. Then last winter I heard my father was sick–dying–in South Carolina, where he and his wife had gone to wait out a particularly bad New England freeze. He had been sent home from the hospital to a home that was not theirs. I surprised myself and boarded a plane in order to be by his bed. He was at times eerily lucid. I said to him things one says at the bedside of the dying–truthful, loving things. Tears stained both our cheeks. I left him there and returned home to work. The next weekend he was hanging on, and I went again to him. He was remote now, nearly gone. There was no conversation. Each massive effort required for his intermittent breath brought him only closer to death. I held his hand and whispered to him. I was lucky to bear witness to the passing

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Actor Andrew McCarthy was a member of the 1980s “Brat Pack,” starring in Pretty in Pink, St. Elmo’s Fire, and Weekend at Bernie’s among many movies. His next film, Finding Julia, is in post-production. A director as well (including nine episodes of Orange is the New Black and three of The Blacklist ), McCarthy has become a distinguished travel writer for Travel + Leisure, Afar, The Atlantic, Wall Street Journal, and New York Times. He is an editor-at-large at National Geographic Traveler.

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of the man I knew so deeply but not at all. We had not washed clean our past, but set down its burden in order to share a present that was oh so final–yet can the business between parent and child ever be final? Lately, I find myself growing more and more eager to accept his open invitation and return to Maine. n

599 Forest Ave Portland 539 Congress St Portland 220 Mall Rd South Portland Millcreek Plaza South Portland 172 US Route 1 Scarborough 350 Pine Point Road Scarborough 204 US Route 1 Falmouth 431 US Route 1 Yarmouth 161 Pleasant St Brunswick 13 New Portland Rd Gorham 609 Main St #1 Westbrook Don Rich Plaza Windham

misterbagel.com O c t O b e r 2015 95

flash Portlandmonthly.com 1

8 2nd AnnuAl Bow Ties And BeAn BooTs Benefit for Teens to Trails , the Brunswick outdoors organization founded by Carol and Bob leone (see “Trailblazer,” november 2014): 1. samantha Piro, erin Krumpe, devin Green 2. eben Perkins, nick sampson 3. Charlie Fear, Heather lowe 4. Carol & Bob leone 5. Mallory Treworgy, Zach whitener 6. lindsay leone, Ben sampson 7. Andrew Hatt, McKenzie smith 8. Juliette Jones, Kelsey Pickering

PorT oPerA AT ViCToriA MAnsion: 1. don Head, dona Vaughn, 2. Jack riddle 3. Joan & russ Burleigh 4. Kat slagell, Matt Jackson 5. John Cooper, richard ringel, Marcia ringel, Judy Cooper

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