July/August 1996

NEED AN ESCAPE FROM SUMMER IN THE CITY? Join Us In The Forest!

June 26 and July 10, 17, 24, &31 Again this year, Boise Cascade invites you to join our professional foresters for a free lour of our working forests.

Tours begin al the Administration Building on Hartford Street in Rumford at 7:15 a.m. and return by 3 p.m.

Rain or shine!

Lunch is provided free of charge.

Children 9 years of age and older are welcome.

• Closed-toe shoes and appropriate clothing is recommended.

Space is available on a first-come, first-served basis. Boise Cascade is committed to managing forest resources for now and into the future—come and see for yourself!

For more information on these and other Boise Cascade tours, please call the Communications Department at least five working days in advance at (207) 369-2727.

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if you have diabetes, take a moment to read this important information Effective July 4, 1996 Maine law P.L. 592 requires that health insurance policies in the state cover the following:

1. Supplies • insulin • oral hypoglycemic agents • blood glucose monitors • test strips, lancets and syringes

2. Self Management Training and Education • The Ambulatory Diabetes Education and Follow-Up (ADEF) Program authorized by the state’s Diabetes Control Project within the Bureau of Health. Call 1-800-2737147 or (207)287-5180 for more information.

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Live Between the Atlantic and the Sand Dunes and Beyond Comparison.

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JulyAugust vV

1996, Volume 11, Number 5 • Celebrating Our 10th Year

_1 FEATURES._ 11 14

Young Admiral Peary Story By Colin Sargent

Neptune's Cowboys: Shrimpermen Tackle The Last Frontier Story By David Pettingell

7

DEPARTMENTS

Letter From The Editor 8 Letters

39 Boating Festivals 46 Festival Guide 53 Classifieds 54 House of the Month Page 24 24

Daisy’s Place: Cape Elizabeth’s Channelside By John Calvin Stevens

By Colin Sargent

40

Forever Jung: Carl Jung's Visit To Bailey Island, Maine, in 1936

By Gwen Thompson

56

Fiction: The Tub

By Kurtis Clements

Cover: The Conservatory at Channelside. 644 Shore Road. Cape Elizabeth

July/August • Portland Monthly Magazine • 5

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Portland Magazine is published by Sargent Publishing. Inc., 578 Congress Street, Portland, ME 04101. All correspondence should be addressed to 578 Congress Street, Portland, MR 04101.

Advertising Office: 578 Congress Street, Portland, ME 04101 (207)775-4339.

Billing Questions: If you have questions regarding advertising invoicing and payments, call Karen StevensBartok 31(207)646-3265.

Newsstand Cover Date: July/August 1996. published July 1996, Vol. 11. No. 5. copyright 1996. Portland Magazine is mailed at third-class mail rates in Portland. ME 04101 (ISSN: 107.3-1857). Opinions expressed in articles are those of authors and do not represent editorial jxisitions of Portland Magazine. Responsible only for that portion of any adverlisemcnl which is printed incorrectly, and as compensation we will run a correction in the following issue. Nothing in this issue may Ik* reprinted m whole or in part without written permission from the publishers. Submissions welcome, but we lake no responsibility for unsolicited materials.

Portland Magazine is published 10 limes annually by Sargent Publishing. Inc.. 578 Congress Street. Portland, with newsstand cover dates of Winterguide. Fcbruary/March.

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6 • Porti and Monthly Magazine • July/August

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ComuinioJloire PireWe id you know that one of the most famous commanding officers of the United States Frigate Constitution was born in Portland, commanded our forces against Tripoli from 18011805, and was asked to be Secretary of the Navy by Thomas Jefferson?

Commodore Edward Preble (17611807) was all this and more. “Tall and stalwart,” he ran off to sea at 16 and surfaced some time later on the streets of Boston, standing for a moment beside an Indian chieftain.

A clergyman spotted them and described the pair as “the noblest human specimens” he’d ever seen, according to The Commodores, by Leonard F. Guttridge and Jay D. Smith.

This must have taken place “before Preble’s imprisonment during the Revolutionary War on board the English hulk New Jersey," the authors say, “for his health declined thereafter.”

Released by the British in 1781, he renewed his connections with Port-

EDITOR land and sailed for our merchant service until becoming the toast of New England by being named the first captain of the Frigate Essex, created for the U.S. Navy by public subscription in Salem, Massachusetts.

Aboard Essex he set sail for the East Indies to protect the vessels of the American China Trade.

Oh, yes, there’s a romance here, too. For years he courted lovely Mary Deering, daughter of Portland merchant Nathaniel Deering, so shyly that at one point he “beseeched her favors indirectly through anguished letters to her mother.”

By age 42 he had married his love but had his dreams crushed by tuberculosis. Bravely fighting this affliction, he commanded the Constitution in battles with the pirates of Tripoli from 1801-1805.

After this, Jefferson offered him the position of Secretary of the Navy, but Preble declined and instead returned to Portland to build “Preble House,” a landmark brick mansion on the corner of Congress and Preble Streets which would become a thriving hotel for many years after his death. Though it was torn down in 1923, part of it still exists-you can see it jutting out from the side of the “Time & Temperature” building at 477 Congress Street to this day. ■

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July/August • Portiand Monthly Magazine • 7

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I just read Ben Emory’s letter in your magazine (Summerguide 96, “Now We Can’t Even Dream?”). It starts out, “With distaste and dismay, I have...”

And that’s where 1 started to laugh, because it sounded like someone from away - why must

they come up here and then ooze distaste and dismay? Like the folks who moved to Gouldsboro and complained about the smell from their neighbor’s cows. So the neighbors got rid of their cows.

And now the newcomers are complaining that Gouldsboro isn’t rural any more.

I have never heard of Ben Emory and am only suspecting from what he writes that he is from away, because if his ancestors had been paying taxes on the island he now owns, he would be grinding his teeth because some fool regulation says he can’t break it up into lots so he could sell it. A native doesn’t necessarily want to. He just doesn’t like being told that after generations of paying taxes on it, he can’t. Besides, a native wouldn’t clutter up a manuscript with “sensitivity” jargon: when I was a kid you giggled if anyone said “impacted.”

Ben Emory doesn’t like to see a house when he sails about in his little boat. Too bad. When my great-great grandfather built my brother’s place, he wanted it near the water - there were no roads.

How about those of us who drive the roads who can no longer see the salt water? I used to be able to see it from my house, but the trees have taken over and 1 can’t

8 • Portland Monthly Magazine • July/August

How Friendly Is Your Business Telephone System?

even see the ocean when 1 clean my chimney. 1 enjoy going over to the Owl’s Head airport because they have just cut down several acres of trees. It is now one of the few places on the coast where you can see more than 600 feet straight ahead.

If we have a problem, it is too many people. I could never afford to have children and feel that that will be my only lasting contribution to the planet. Has Mr. Emory made a similar sacrifice, or will he someday proudly pose with a couple of dozen of his conspicuously consuming descendants?

If he thinks the Maine coast is in bad shape now, he should have seen it after the last ice age.

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July/August • Portland Monthly Magazine • 9

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096

PORTLANDIANA this part of town to create new attractions (Elizabeth Noyce’s indoor market, etc.)? Why is it that no one even knows exactly where Peary’s house was? call to the Peary-MacMillan Arctic Museum at Bowdoin College is not enlighteningrepresentatives there don’t know anything about Peary’s boyhood. No biographies dwell on this period, either. The only thing we can find out is that he lived on “nearby” Oxford Street. Research in the Cumberland County Register of Deeds, however, reveals the February 9, 1870 purchase of 123 Oxford Street by Mary W. Peary, his widowed mother.

This turns out to be barely two blocks away. We turn left off Cumberland Avenue, down toward the corner of Wilmot and Oxford

A

Admiral Peary

W

E’VE GOT another entry for Portland’s Pantheon of Missed Opportunities: Why isn’t there a museum here dedicated to Polar Explorer Robert E. Peary, celebrated the world over in 1909 as the first man to reach the North Pole?

After all, he grew up here and spent all four of his high school years at Portland High, Class of 1873. What an exciting example to hold up to the students of the second-oldest public high school in the United States (Boston Latin is the oldest)-that nothing can stop you, even if you’re living in a modest dwelling on nearby Oxford Street in the Little Armenia district, just steps away from PHS? Heck, Robert Louis Stevenson stayed only three months in Mon¬

Story By Colin Sargent terey, but enterprising Californians have turned his apartment into a

The Peary' house on J23 Oxford Street as it appeared in th* 1924 tax appraisal. Even then it had gaslights and no indoor bathrooms.

museum complete with original Stevenson ephemera, gift shop, tshirts, and admission tickets.

And aren’t we trying to dress up

Streets to see a dazzling young African-American woman in a bright purple gown and fuchsia headband glide proudly by. A lot of people new to America live on this block, and as we pace 66.6 feet northeast along Oxford from the corner of Wilmot and Oxford in the 90-degree heat, it makes us feel proud to think that you can be anything you want to be if you grow up here.

Where’s number 123? We look up to see a round bush and a vast white cement-block wall. What is this place? I walk a few steps over to a glass front door and enter. The receptionist at Earl W. Noyes and Sons eyes my notebook. I haven’t felt the least bit eccentric about looking for Peary’s house until this moment.

“Are you from the tax depart-

j'uly/august • Portland Monthly Magazine • 11

Victoria Mansion

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12 • Portland Monthly Magazine • July/august

■ PORTLANDIANA ■

DUTLOflE THEATRE GO

ment?” she says.

“No.” I look at my notes. “But I think you’re sitting 25 feet from the spot where Polar Explorer Robert E. Peary grew up. The house was on a narrow lot, only 33.3 feet wide.”

I show her the deed.

“Polar Explorer,” she says.

“That’s a nice thought. It’s pretty hot out there today, you know.”

In the coming days, as more research comes in, a picture of the young man emerges. Young Robert Peary didn’t have too many advantages when he attended PHS. In fact, one biography reported that ‘Bert’ was a rawknuckled youth who got in trouble early on for breaking the glass windows on old barns because he liked the sound of the tinkling glass.

So from this tough neighborhood, “manifest destiny” was not exactly carrying him “90-North,” as he would later call the Pole (the young man was fascinated that the place he dreamed about actually transcended longitude).

In fact, it was hard enough to make a go of it here in Portland.

His mother, a compulsive worrier, often took sick, with no one but Bert around to care for her.

Still, he managed to become an excellent student, and his life took off when, with his 3.95 grade point average, he earned a scholarship to Bowdoin College. Interestingly, among his classmates in the fabled Portland High Class of 1873 was architect John Calvin Stevens (3.72), whom we may have mentioned in these pages. It makes you wonder what Edward H. Trowbridge (3.97) and Flavel B. Waldron (3.99)-who finished ahead of Peary and Stevens-did when they grew up!

At graduation, young Bert delivered a paper on the “Mysteries of Nature,” where he alluded to the Pole and wondered what it would

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■ PORTLANDIANA ■ be like. Then, after a brilliant career at Bowdoin, he disappeared from local records until 1881, when, as a resident of Washington D.C., he purchased Eagle Island from a Harpswell man for $200.

By 1924, 123 Oxford Street was run down and crowded with three families.

“Urban renewal,” is how City Hall explains the house’s razing prior to 1972 once we describe the location.

“Okay,” I say. “what would it take to change Oxford Street’s name to Peary Street? We could at least do that, couldn’t we?”

“We’ve already got a Peary Terrace,” 1 am told. “Let me check.

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123 Oxford as it appears today.

Woops, that’s in South Portland.”

“Is the name Oxford Street one we have to keep-is it sacred?”

“Not exactly. There used to be an Oxnard Pasture there many years ago, but people ended up calling it Oxford Street over the years.”

“That’s great. So the name isn’t significant to the city. It isn’t even correct. It’s perfect for a change!”

“Think of the problems,” City Hall says. “All the mortgages on the street would have to change.

People would have to change their credit card addresses, the letterhead on their stationery... And that’s just the beginning! It’s not so easy to change the name of a street. It would be a nightmare.”

There is a pause on the telephone.

“A nightmare.” I Amy Hulls. William David Barry. and Peter Cribben provided research and source materials for this story.

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July/august • Portland Monthly Magazine • 13

Neptune’s Cowboys Maine Shrimpernien Fish The Last Frontier

I

t’s 3 a.m. in December. Fog curls around the sleeping city of Portland and envelops Bea Glad H. Rumbling, and seemingly with a life of her own, the 73-foot dragger pulls at the piles at the end of Holyok Wharf, where her three-man crew scrambles around her rusty deck, making final preparations before Captain Lyle Chamberlain arrives.

“You’ve got that coffee on, George?”

John Mioni says.

“Yup.” Then we hear the sound of footsteps.

John and George look up. Captain Lyle Chamberlain and his brother, John, are already on board, heading for the wheelhouse.

14 • Portland Monthly Magazine • July/august

Story By David Pettingell “That net mended?” Lyle Chamberlain says.

“Yup.” “Toss the lines.”

It’s this fast, and the words are this unvarnished. These are night words, and these guys are here to make a living.

The 25-year-old dragger slips into the harbor and away from the faint glow of the city into an ocean dark as a mine shaft, and that’s the way Chamberlain likes it. “When you toss the lines, you leave the aggravations of the world on the wharf, and escape into a world of your own.”

With Chamberlain’s pen light on the charts and the air thick with the smell of fresh-perked coffee and salty air, we head out through the sound

of herring gulls unfolding their wings

by State Pier. As the light drops off, I see a solo harbor seal dive into the ink, the macabre shadow of a cormorant pointing the way to the harbor mouth.

After that, there’s just the defining lull of the Bea Glad Il’s throbbing engines and the sounds of Chamberlain directing the activities of the night.

Off the starboard bow, we can barely discern the blinking of Portland Head Light, the second-oldest pepperpot in the nation, as we slip past Ram Island and head South-Southwest through the buffer zone of Hussey’s Sound toward Broad Cove, along the Cape Elizabeth coast, with an ultimate destination-“The Ridge.”

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19 Pleasant Street, Yarmouth, ME 04096 • (207) 846-3810 16 • Portland Monthly Magazine • July/august

Switching on the Loran, Chamberlain says, “We should haul about 2,000 pounds of excellent shrimp today. Some boats are landing as much as 5,000. Shrimping is saving the fishing industry right now, but it’s just a finger in the dike.”

He takes a long sip of coffee.

“What do you mean?”

“If the fisheries had paid attention to the rattle from Uncle Sam in the 1960s when he began torching the fish hatcheries everyone’s crying for now, we probably wouldn’t be going under today.”

Torching? Chamberlain looks at me.

“1 was in Gloucester in the early 1960s and watched in disbelief as the flames erupted from the hatcheries for the first time to the roaring approval of huge crowds. And I was pushed around George’s Bank by huge Russian draggers raping our resource in the 1970s. That was Kennedy’s bright idea. Next, we watched as the government literally entered our industry, subsidizing brand-new, overpriced boats to outsiders to get write-offs: doctors, lawyers, and politicians-the very boats the government is buying back today. If the bureaucracy puts us out of business, you can say good-bye to Commercial Street forever. If 1 weren’t shrimping, we’d be one more boat nicking away at the species. Many of us have had to convert our ground fishing boats to shrimpers.”

Another 20 minutes pass, and when we look to the right we can see the sparkle of Old Orchard Beach in the distance.

“See those early birds dead ahead?”

Chamberlain points to the green and red bobbing lights of a small fleet of shrimp boats who have gotten here ahead of us, already towing the line.

“Some are converted lobster boats,” he says, without elaborating.

As we approach, we see that each boat has its “arms" swung out from its sides to keep it from sinking in heavy weather. Coated with ice, they look like giant water spiders.

“Talk about icy lobster boats!”

Chamberlain says. “It was February, 1980, and we’d been lobstering in the deeps from my Amy Michelle, five to six miles off the New Hampshire coast on the American side of

Brown’s Bank. 1 wasn’t paying attention to the ice buildup, and before we knew it we were being buried alive with an 18-inch shroud of snow covering the entire vessel. Breathe from the engine intake and exhaust vent, I told my crew. Otherwise, we’d have suffocated. If we hadn’t had a special radar which rotated inside the dome, we’d have never made it in. Finally, two Coast Guard cutters pushed us to Portsmouth.”

“Are we laying down soon?” George looks up expectantly. There is excitement in his voice, because the shrimp are under us. Birds overhead are going crazy. Chamberlain flicks on the sounder, which shows us an irradiated underwater landscape of the hills and gulleys below. In the profound darkness out here, it’s almost like going online. He points to some pepper-like specks on the screen, lit up.

“See these?” he says.

“Shrimp?”

“Nope, tiny autumn leaves.” He pushes the throttle forward while the crew positions to drop the nets, and the Bea Glad II leaps into action “Shrimp are out here in all seasons, the winter being the most dangerous.

But here we are anyway, because that’s the law. Nova Scotians and Scandinavians shrimp year-round all seasons for the same shrimp we catch, and they say they haven’t even put a dent in the stock. Unlike lobsters, shrimp lift themselves into the currents to carry them where they need to go. Key West shrimp are carried more than 300 miles that way. Who’s to say these shrimp haven’t come from the Bay of Fundy via the Labrador Current or from Cape Cod via the Gulf Stream? The Maine marine biologists base their stock figures on random samples in good weather. You don’t think you’d catch them out here with us, do you?”

He spins around.“Keep her straight to the currents, and mind your helm,” Chamberlain tells his brother at the wheel as he leaves to help the crew, who are already uncoiling the boat’s elaborate net from a huge spool riveted to the stern and dropping it into 34 fathoms of frothy swells.

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Behind us, at the terminal, all hands are connecting a wire from two weighty trawl doors ready to be lowered by winches located amidships sporting two new $1,000 cables.

“What’s the matter, George?” Chamberlain says. “You can’t see John’s marker, or what?”

George doesn’t answer, but things begin to take shape.

In a matter of minutes, from the tangled mesh, the whole contraption now moves smoothly along the ocean floor, scooping up the ripe harvest and spitting out juveniles and bycatch thanks of a device called the Nordmore Grate, invented by a Norwegian. What’s left will be delicious Maine shrimp.

“We’re towing the line,” Mioni shouts with a grin.

“No kidding.” Chamberlain says.

“What else do you know?”

He enjoys making Mioni feel like a newcomer, even though he’s been out here 40 years.

“My son wants to be a fisherman,” Mioni tells me later in response to the jibes. ‘“Get your education instead,’ 1 say. ‘There are no benefits anymore, the equipment is too expensive, there are too many re-strictions, and the stocks are going down fast. But the kid never listens.’”

“Damn net’s too small,” Chamberlain breaks in. The net behind us measures 80 feet from its weighted ‘legs,’ which give the rig mobility, to its ‘cans,’ which provide buoyancy.

The long, arm-like 700-pound doors spread the maw of the net and its support ‘wings’ 50 feet wide.

“Each net is different,” Chamberlain says back in the wheelhouse. “This sloppy water isn’t helping matters, and I can’t keep the damn thing on the bottom because of the growing litter of ghost traps down there that the government keeps replacing for free.”

“Hey, John!” he says. “Get out from under that line, or you’ll really be in heavy weather! Pay more attention.

You remind me of Paul Fusar.”

Fusar, he tells me, is something of a legend on these Maine boats. He wasn’t paying attention to the lines in the winter of 1975 aboard the Western Wave, which was pair-trawling for herring among the ghost traps off

the New Hampshire coast. While passing half the net to the other boat on the lee side of a serious swell, Fusar got to the wrong side of the Samson line. ‘Hey, Fusar, mind your helm!’ shouted Willis, the first mate, but it was too late. The line parted, and Fusar parted company.

“He was flung by the neck like a slingshot 40 feet into the air and vanished into whipped cream,” Chamberlain says. “All hands pressed against the starboard rail. ‘He’s popped up on the port!’ Greg Dunn screamed. He’d gone completely under the keel, just missing the prop, and was bobbing in the popples.

When we got him aboard, he looked like he’d been through a mix master.

He lost an eye, had to have a lung removed, damaged his esophagus, and got pneumonia.” fter two hours of towing, Chamberlain gears it down, saying, “That’s enough.” The crew springs to action, rewinding the catch. First thing up is a bleached ghost trap, bulging in the net, the bane of Chamberlain’s existence. “Probably broke loose in a storm or was tossed overboard!”

Then, behind it in the catch-basin, is a half-load of glistening gray and pink shrimp, corrupted by bycatch which will have to be tossed overboard once they’re separated. This process is begun when the crew unlatches the bottom of the net and the fish tumbles into the Nordmore. If the Nordmore doesn’t catch them, they have to be hand-separated.

The full-sized lobsters they throw back are very valuable, and the irony doesn’t escape Chamberlain.

“It doesn’t matter what size they are, or that we’re outside state waters. It’s just another stupid restriction, lobbied in by the powerful lobstermen’s union. But let’s concentrate on the shrimp,” he says as he inspects one.

They’re good-sized, about 35 to a pound compared to 100 to a pound elsewhere, and the market will pay about $1 a pound for them.

“If people only knew these shrimp are such scavengers-and cannibalistic at that-maybe they wouldn’t be so popular.”

The other crewman, Manning,

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pokes his head through the hatch to report the size of the catch.

“Six,” he says.

“Not too bad,” Chamberlain says, but apparently it’s not good enough, and he points the prow toward The Ridge, hoping to do better.

At this point we’re about five miles off Biddeford Pool. I am stunned to look up from this distance and see a breathtaking view of Mt. Washington, appearing for the first time in the early light like a monument of ivory piercing a cloud like a halo, the sun breaking off its peak, but Chamberlain interrupts the reverie.

“Hey, what’s that smoke I smell?”

“It’s only George burning the shrimp again,” Mioni calls up from the galley.

“Bring me a sandwich,” Chamberlain orders, “and make sure you beef it up this time!”

Minutes later, we’re served delicious shrimp sandwiches more fresh than I can describe, and Chamberlain takes big bites while heading out to sea. The waves are enormous now.

He’s trying to turn, but we’re being beaten back. On the sounder’s repeater screen, we see a black, jagged mountain rainge coming into the picture.

“That’s The Ridge, all right!” He latches the wheel against the pressure of the waves. Then, it slowly begins to disappear.

“Just in time,” he says as the screen fills with autumn leaves. Compensating for the tidal currents with one on his chart, the other on his Loran, he starts tracking the ridge for a second tow. The nets go out. “Now she’s talking!”

Nevertheless, the bad water is forcing the doors in and out too quickly, collapsing the net too much and lifting the bow so high that the Loran is flickering, going on and off.

It is then that Chamberlain calls his old friend, Captain Harry Ross, who’s out here in his boat, too, and asks if he wants to go through The Crack for his third and final tow.

I gulp. The Crack? These waves are big enough here. Conditions are so dismal, the bottom could fall out of the glass with no warning. Why The Crack?

Having been “hanging in the slack”

for the past two hours along the edge of the precarious Ridge, and “coming up short” of shrimp at that, Chamberlain is ready for a change.

Captain Ross agrees and leads the way.

I don’t know what’s on the other side of The Crack. Will it be a different time zone, a different galaxy, or what? There’s been a lot of talk about The Crack in recent years, and what’s on the other side of it, but now that we’re about to go through it, Chamberlain will only tell me that it’s the place where “the walls are tight” and the bottom “comes up

I

quick.”

t’s now pitch dark in the fog-as if that matters-our boats’ short transmissions barely crackling through the silence. “The blind leading the blind,” Ross blurts ahead of us as the vox starts to squelch. We can’t even see him ahead of us.

“The gulls don’t even know which way is up in this soup,” Lyle says. “I haven’t towed The Crack in years.

I’m trusting you, partner. Fixed your exhaust, I assume?”

“Yam over a nail’s all,” he says.

I ponder over that phrase until I decode it as patched it up the way your grandmother would patch up a pair of socks.

“Should’ve stayed in anyways. Lost my whole second haul through the bottom. Damn Ridge gutted my net.

Hey, grapple yours back?”

“Spin another yarn. Enough trouble keeping yours from its clutches. May it rest in peace with the other ghost gear.”

Ghost gear I can figure out. Fishermen are forever cursing their luck for the lost nets that have sifted to the bottom to keep company with the washing machines, sand, and exploded Nazi submarines out here off the Eastern seaboard. A few years ago, a dragger even came up with a single airplane wing from World War II. But the rest? Chamberlain helps me. They’re talking about using a prong to reach back into the ocean to attempt to recover the lost gear.

“Harry Ross up ahead has been supplying the sea with ghost gear out here since 1955,” Chamberlain says.

“Started when he was 10, with 100

lobster traps and a skiff with a sail,” he laughs, transmitting all the while.

“I didn’t do it for love of money,” Ross says over the radio, “but for adventure and immediate gratification.”

Suddenly, the Lorans go blank in both boats and we find ourselves dead reckoning.

And having helped me this far, Chamberlain agrees to tell me how he got in the fish business in the first place, when he was “young and foolish.”

“I went out for a 13-day haul back in 1965, right after high school graduation,” he says. “My father, who used to be a dock worker, laughed and said, ‘You’re a sucker and won’t make a nickel,’ but he wished me luck anyway and sent me off feeling good.”

The next day 1 rendezvoused with another sucker, my best friend, Bill Mathers, at the waterfront, where we were already dock rats and sure we had everything figured out, but then we’d never run into anything like the scurry bunch who operated this rundown Eastern Rigger out of Gloucester.

“Well, after estimating what we could draw - we knew the price of fish, anyway - we signed on and sailed for the Bay of Fundy. We were Jack Mucks for sure! They worked us for two straight weeks, night and day.

Exhausted after dumping the sculsh and slush overboard, we’d find a fork in the beam, exchanging dreams of what we’d do with our shares, which we figured would be about $900.

“We’d loved the fishing. We’d found we had a knack for it. We'd ‘followed the birds’ and helped bring in a full load of fish.”

Chamberlain grins.

“Then, started back in for port, and, after two weeks of expectation, we watched as they doled us out $5.24 each. It was enough to make you swallow the anchor for good.”

What to do? Maybe you don’t remember the Portland waterfront in 1965.

“We put a peg in it until late that night, when they were three sheets to the wind and we had the last pawler, trashing their boat.”

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July/august • Portland Monthly Magazine • 21

He looks at me significantly until I finally figure it out.

With nothing more needing to be said, I listen as Ross tries to call us

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“Anybody home? Come in, Lyle!” he transmits.

Finally, Chamberlain says, “I’m

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Bobbing in the popples - Coming up with the peaks of the swells Bycatch - Marine life in your nets that you weren’t planning to catch, e.g., lobsters in a shrimp net Cans - Floats at the top of the net that provide buoyancy

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Ghost Traps - Lobster traps torn from their lines by storms and littering the bottom of the sea. Ghost Gear is any fishing equipment that’s found its way to the bottom Grapple yours back - Use a prong to reach into the ocean and attempt to retrieve lost gear Hanging in the slack - Stuck in slack tide, between high and low tide The last pawler - The last statement, the final word Juveniles - Shrimp too young to catch Jack Mucks - Greenhorns Legs - Wheels provide mobility to the net and as legs “walk" it across the ocean floor.

Nordmore Grate - A sifting device that separates bycatch and juveniles from the larger shrimp Pepperpot - Lighthouse Put a peg in it - Keep quiet about it The Ridge - Five miles off Cape Elizabeth, there’s a long, semi-circular ridge line along the ocean floor that is one-third sand bank, two-thirds rocks Samson Line - The key connecting line with the nets from a shrimp boat. It can sever one's head in the right conditions. It is a major mistake for a rookie to go under the Samson line Tates - Slang for totes, carrying boxes for the catch Yarn over a nail’s all - Patching it up the way your grandmother would patch up a pair of socks Where the walls are tight - Natural walls made of sand. The walls are very close around The Crack Whipped cream - Froth in a real storm

22 • Portland Monthly Magazine • July/august

here. Just been wrapped up in a ghost story is all.”

“What?”

“Never mind. You want to try The Crack dead reckoning?”

“When I was young and foolish 1 would have gone through The Crack backwards without a Loran or friend to guide me, but I’ve been beaten up all my life, and I’ve learned the hard way it’s too costly to take unnecessary risks.”

So the two old friends begin their final tow heading back toward Portland as the whistler buoy sends its homing signal through the ghastly fog.

This time it’s a better catch.

“Twelve hundred,” Manning says matter-of-factly, a cigar dangling from his lips, the sign that all the shrimp are in their tates, and it’s time to relax.

“Maybe tomorrow will be better,” he says, marking some possible hot spots on the charts on the way in.

As we pass Two Lights Battery, a converging mesh of other shrimp boats follows them in, gaining on the two older, slower boats. Passing Chebeague Island, the largest of the Calendar Islands, Harry Ross makes a last call.

“Hey, Lyle, what did the Indians say when they first laid eyes on the island?”

Lyle doesn’t want to hear it. It’s been a long day.

“She big!” Ross answers anyway, and Lyle hangs up.

It’s about 7 p.m. as Bea Glad II and Two Friends lead the pack through the harbor, where the seal and cormorant are still at it, the gulls are back at the pier with their wings folded, and the tourists along Commercial Street are out in droves, Christmas shopping.

As Chamberlain backs into his slip at Holyok Wharf, he laughs in spite of himself, noticing a family waiting for the boat to come in, the young boy snooping around like a dock rat.

After the shrimp are officially weighed in, Chamberlain dishes out fair, equal shares to his crew, and it’s the end of a typical day in the life of a shrimperman-until 3 a.m. when they will do it all over again. ■

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JULY/AUGUST • PORTIAND MONTHLY MAGAZINE • 23

Chaimelside "Daisy's Place, ” the Channelside mansion, is currently listed for sale at $/,495,000.

John Calv in Stevens,

Story By Colin Sargent

T

he blue lawn tumbled nearly a quarter-mile toward the sea, leaping like a serpent through the gardens, jumping over a reflection pool with a little bridge and a clump of tamaracks before stopping abruptly and dispensing the viewer below a night loud with stars. There, not twenty feet from the edge of the cliffs, beneath the birches, a man appeared and stood with his hands in his pockets, inspecting eternity. A warm breeze lifted the curtains in the mansion behind him and for one transitory enchanted moment a sad, lovely face appeared in the window. Daisy. But 24 • PORTLAND MONFHLY MAGAZINE • JULY/AUGUST

A R C H I T E C T

this was hardly F. Scott Fitzgerald’s Daisy, was it, gentle reader? This was Portland’s Daisy Fanny Walker, and the mansion was-and zs-Channelside.

Do you remember the old Benoit Block stuck in the throat of Monument Square, now the home of Bookland Downtown and Victory Deli?

This five-story building was once the greatest hardware store in the world, headquarters of Edwards & Walker, purveyors of railroad equipment and most of the construction tools, tacks, awls, pulleys, cutlery, ropes, saws, hammers, and levels used to build brick-pointed Victorian Portland.

Frederick Walker, the owner, was one of the people who ruled this town. Fabulously wealthy, he bought

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With his designer John Calvin Stevens, Mr. Walker built a stunning Shingle Style mansion named Channelside there, the first Channelside, mind you, and all was right with the world. The year was 1886.

In view of the entire business community, Mr. Walker liked to sail to

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work each day from Channelside in his own giant sloop and tie up in the Old Port. From there it was a short stroll up to Monument Square.

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The soldiers at nearby Fort Williams fell in love with Channelside, too, and took note of the times of Walker’s vacations, camping out on his enormous back porch while he and his wife Marianna Libby Walker were away staying at homes in Orlando, Florida, where they owned a grove of orange trees; Sebago Lake, at a retreat nicknamed “Kros Nest”; or at a winter apartment they kept in Portland. Channelside was, after all, a “summer house.”

The stars seemed closer from Mr. Walker’s back porch, and the sol-

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diers enjoyed smoking deep into the rosy Casco Bay evenings, their feet propped up on the railings.

Sometimes they’d just walk around the grounds. A series of steep gray stairs zigzagged down against the face of the granite’s sheer cliff and took them to the sweetest little public beach anyone had ever seen. At night the lighthouses beams swept over the property so viscerally the light almost carried the soldiers up into the heavens.

Everyone also loved the full-sized, picturesque, working windmill John Calvin Stevens designed for the property, as well as stables and a gazebo the architect added to the front lawn in 1898.

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T

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Walker was a stickler for details, supervising the crane as they lifted the brushed metal coffin up above the docks and lowered it gently into the hold of the steamship. The coffin tilted a little on the way up. We know that because Mr. Walker took a picture of it to commemorate the occasion. Men in turbans and business suits crowded the docks. Everything seemed in order. Exhausted and grieving, the hardware magnate returned home.

Marianna’s new rags were a bit too dressy for people in the Forest City, though, and there was talk all over town upon their arrival. Marianna’s brother, who couldn’t believe what had happened, insisted that his sister’s mummy be unraveled so he could identify her. And so it was, with police officials, coroners, and other experts no doubt in attendance, snapping photos and scribbling down details. They peeled off the

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linen to see Marianna’s face, her sworl of dark hair, those quiet, confident eyes. With all doubt extinguished, the funeral rites were held in Cape Elizabeth, with Marianna placed for viewing near her windmill as the trolleys rattled by in the background on their way to Cape Cottage Casino.

Four years passed. Walker kept working, building a hardware empire that flourished until suppliers across the country were begging him to consider their wares.

Then, one afternoon, he walked out of his office and stood above his new secretary, the lovely pre-flapper Daisy Fanny Wright, just 24. He looked 'at her as she lowered her lashes and placed two steamship tickets in front of her on her desk.

Daisy blinked. “Do you want to go around the world with me?” was the way the 59-year-old proposed. They were married on Halloween, 1909, and began their Grand Tour after that.

And it was grand, with quite a few stops off the beaten track. In Ghana, for instance, Daisy’s diary included entries about the best ways to supervise the movement of elephants, in case she might need that skill on her return to Portland. More trips followed over the next few years, broken by the occasional stints of work in Portland.

Then, at 3. a.m. on a Saturday night on January 6, 1913, while the Walkers were away visiting their orange groves in Orlando, tradition has it that an unlucky soldier celebrating the new year in the subzero cold and smoking on the porch of Channelside dropped The Cigarette.

It would have been nothing more than a momentary inconvenience, had the place not lit up like Atlanta, fanned by offshore winds.

Screams rose into the night, and soon over 200 Army soldiers had run over from Fort Williams to help their buddy, swarming the estate and trying to conduct the informal mission of saving Channelside from burning down. The fire raged. Channelside was no more.

Well insured, Walker commissioned John Calvin Stevens to build the second Channelside on the same gor-

geous lot, with ocean views in every room. This time, no expense was spared, and the house was finished in 1914, the same year F. Scott Fitzgerald entered Princeton as a freshman.

The basement was created by Italian masons. “They didn’t blast into the ledge,” says listing agent Jim McFarlane of Mark Stimson Realty, who grew up near this house, “they literally picked their way 7 feet deep, working for a dollar a day.”

Mr. Walker got caught up in the excitement, too, importing rare Florida gumwood that he’d admired in Orlando to line the walls of his panelled library on the second floor, which featured a cathedral ceiling installed by Mr. Newell, Stevens’s master carpenter. “All of the light fixtures in the library-state of the art for the period-were given to Walker free by a lighting distributor who was hoping Walker would start carrying his line,” McFarlane says.

“The original insulation in the attic was Cabot seaweed between pieces of paper,” says Dr. Joel Sabean, the present seller, who bought Channelside in 1981.

Altogether, Channelside was built for $35,000.

For this house was the Maine apotheosis of the Booth Tarkington era, with the latest in modern conveniences built in, such as a central vacuuming system and a special little room that jogs out from the housedesigned specifically for telephone calling.

Stevens added another wrinkle to the design, too-the world’s first picture window, visible in construction photos in 1914 and well ahead of the cottage on nearby Clapboard Island, which would claim the same distinction.

Daisy tackled the landscaping, commissioning Jackson’s Nurseries, the forerunner of O’Donal’s Florists, to put in the finest landscaping in the area. So much loam was brought in, the story goes, that the neighbors complained about the smell.

In just six inches of loam over the ledge, birches were planted that have far outstripped the normal lifespan of the species and still thrive today, nearly hanging over the cliff.

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There was a reflection pond trimmed in granite, yucca plants, and all manner of flora (today the collection, according to seller Karen Sabean, who has assembled excellent monographs and photo albums of the history of the house, including original planting documents, continues as “azaleas, rhododendrons, mountain laurel, mock orange, deutzia, February Daphne, ewe trees, tamarack trees, crab apples, poplars, lilacs, hemlocks, swisstone pines, elms, Dwarf Alberta Spruce, blueberries, mugo pines, peonies, clematis, climbing honeysuckle, arbor vitae, andeomeda, forsythia, weigela, junipers, witch hazel, lilies of the valley, violets, day lilies, Johnny jump-ups, and many more, not to mention the magnificent birch point that is lit up at night.”) Interestingly, Karen’s copies

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of the original bills of sale for all the shrubbery show that the prices of trees and shrubs have not kept up with inflation over the years.

The garden was and is a showcase.

The house itself is aptly described in a paper that a student from the * Maine College of Art wrote a few years ago-the Sabeans wish they still had her name: “John Calvin Stevens’s rough sketch of the Frederick Walker residence visualized a client’s dreams and led to formal plans (which are presently - on file in the Stevens collection at Maine Historical Society). The house became a reality on the cliffs overlooking Casco Bay. Here Stevens demonstrates his good sense of balance and clarity in design and his feeling for proportion. A mansion in size, yet informal in texture, Channelside, as it was named, rises from the

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Stevens integrates the building. It is indigenous-as much as the birch, spruce, and outcroppings of ledge that surround it. Cedar shingles that have lost their natural elegance under coats of dark brown stain succeed in bringing the house closer to the environment. Moving out horizontally, the house freely follows the unevenness of nature. The roof line with its gables, points, and juts, here and there, mimicks the cliffs that parallel the coastline. A gray slate roof and three chimney stacks pick up the same colors and textures found in the natural ledges and stone walls that surround the property. The foundation of the house appears to grow out of the ground and meets with the textured shingles. The house is rich in light and shade. A porch penetrates the volume of the house on its west side while on the east side a covered piazza runs horizontally along the building. One view of this home is not enough to know its whole. Each side has character of

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“A walk up the steps on the west side of the mansion leads one into an entrance hall. Off the hall are the living room and dining room which are side by side and overlook the sea.

The rooms move into one another through a sevenfoot entrance, with large, red-brick fireplaces at each end. Wooden ceilings run the length of the two rooms as do polished wood floors below. It is easy to imagine the space during a snowstorm, with waves crashing on the rocks below and the wind howling outside while the two fireplaces radiate heat and keep the inside warm. The upstairs rooms (four bedrooms and a sewing room) echo the downstairs in charm.

Stevens’s use of winding stairways, built-in bookcases, and plate rails help to give Channelside its cozy character. All rooms view the sea.

“The mansion’s informal elegance brings its viewer back in time. One has the same feeling when viewing Winslow Homer’s paintings of elegant ladies playing croquet on mani-

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While there was no blinking green light, Channelside was indisputably Daisy’s Place now, but even in this setting she was unable to completely get into the spirit of being married to Walker. Fueling rumors of a ‘perpetual headache’ which precluded marital relations with her husband, Daisy’s longtime boyfriend, John Smith, was often seen on the propertyIf Daisy were waiting for a quick

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Smith!

Now Daisy was alone, and she stayed in the mouldering house until she died in 1966. To her credit, she accumulated a good deal of business acumen as the years passed, assumed control of Edwards & Walker with a will, and ran the empire as president and chairman of the board until she died at age 81.

By then, times had changed. Angelone’s Pizza-and not Walker & Edwards-was the toast of Monument Square. An era was over.

The fabulous Channelside fell out of repair. Finally, in the late 1960s, it was sold.for just $75,000. A sliver of the gorgeous lot was pared off and sold separately. Today it is graced by the new Shingle Style home of Greg Boulos.

These legends about Channelside survive because John Smith, who’d had a wife himself, had a daughter named Etta Mary Smith Linsky, who as time wore on became first Daisy’s servant, working for “room and board," according to her friend Karen Sabean. Later, in the loneliness of Channelside as the decades passed, Daisy and Etta became dear friends.

In the early 1980s, Dr. and Mrs. Joel Sabean bought Channelside and began restoring the estate. Karen

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Sabean put the story of the estate together piece by piece during a number of interviews with Etta Mary Smith Linsky, who is now in Fallbrook Woods Nursing Home.

A wonderful new conservatory, in glass and rare white and blue marble slippery enough to skate on, was one of their many well considered improvements (see the cover of this issue).

New Brazilian cherry floors, “150percent harder than oak,” were added to some rooms with a great deal of craft by Wright Ryan Construction, who redesigned the kitchen. “The granite countertop was mined in Virginia and chosen because, again, it brought the starlit night indoors,” Karen Sabean writes. “The dark blue gas stove was imported from England and is wonderful to cook on. It is gas-fired and constantly warm... The conservatory was also imported from England... The blue marble in the floor...is meant to represent flecks of sky. The white-representing the clouds-is pure, so it too was difficult to get.”

Lovely Waterford chandeliers have been added to the kitchen, dining room, and living room. “The front hallway also has a Waterford fixture.

The wallpaper columns were a fun way to continue the porte cochere inside. The lights on this carriage porch are the original kitchen lights.

From here out the large picture window we can see the gazebo and a tiny glance of the street. That is one special thing about Channelside-its extreme privacy from the mad world outside.”

As an ambassador of the mad world, I have to laugh. I grew up thinking Portland had beautiful homes, but nothing like these. Certainly there are bigger houses in Newport, Rhode Island, but none of them can challenge this view. Channelside is the most beautiful house and lot north of East Egg. ■

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“happy neurosis island” of consciousness. The six-day seminar, entitled “Dream Symbols of the Individuation Process,” was held not within the walls of some venerable institution of healing or higher learning, but rather on a “well-defended island fortress” much like the archetypal “last stronghold” clung to so desperately by Jung’s patient “against the threatening embrace of the unconscious.” The name of this redoubtable rock of ages? Bailey Island, Maine.

According to a biographical memoir written by Jung’s long-time friend and colleague Barbara Hannah, it was touch and go till the last minute

“The unconscious might be compared to the sea, while consciousness is like an island rising out of its midst.”

Jung on the .steps of the Bailey Island Library.

Toreveir Jurngj ( mt! Jung s Visit Id Bailey Island, Maine, in .1936

B

Story By Gwen Thompson

y his own admission, even as a small child Carl Gustav Jung (1875-1961) “could not be dragged away from the water” of Lake Constance in Switzerland, because “This expanse of water was an inconceivable pleasure to me, an incomparable splendor” without which, he was convinced, “nobody could live at all." Many years later the celebrated Swiss psychiatrist would turn again to the power of water in a vivid metaphor encapsulating the

40 • Portland Monthly Magazine • July/august

essence of his now-famous brand of psychoanalytic theory: “By virtue of its indefinite extension the unconscious might be compared to the sea, while consciousness is like an island rising out of its midst.”

In September of 1936 Jung delivered a series of lectures chronicling and interpreting the dreams of one of his patients, a highly intellectual, scientific young man whose unconscious sea nonetheless periodically threatened to inundate and overwhelm his

whether or not he would even show up, so thoroughly was he enjoying himself lecturing at Harvard on “Factors Determining Human Behavior.”

Apparently, Jung was convinced that only a handful of people would be willing to travel all the way up to Maine just to hear him speak, and assumed that the few who did were probably vacationing anyway and therefore would not mind in the least if he failed to arrive promptly as scheduled. Imagine, then, his surprise upon learning that over a hundred people had already con- gregated on the island for the sole purpose of attending his seminar—a surprise that was probably not entirely pleasant, since he often remarked that the size of a group was inversely proportional to its intelligence, so that by the time it reached one hundred it was nothing but a giant Wasserkopf (head filled with water)!

Jung’s reluctance may also have arisen from his mixed feelings about American audiences. Hannah recalls him warning her once of the crucial difference between lecturing to the English and to Americans: “In England...one must be careful not to

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make any uneducated mistakes, but that did not matter at all in the United States. There the one important thing was never to say anything which one was not certain was genuine through and through. The Americans have a kind of sixth sense...for detecting the real thing and for recognizing any pretenses and untested imitations." oreover, although Jung spoke English fluently, it did not necessarily follow that he always felt comfortable in the company of Americans. In a 1930 essay on “The Complications of the American Psychology” he described having lunch as "the guest of a pretty stiff and solemn New England family of a rather terrifying respectability...A solemnity brooded over the meal for which I could see no reason, but I supposed it was the solemnity or serenity of great virtue or something like that which vibrated through the room. At all events nobody laughed. Everyone was just too nice and too polite.

Eventually I could stand it no longer, and I began to crack jokes for better or worse. These were greeted with condescending smiles.”

On the other hand, not all Jung’s American experiences were quite so formidable. The "wonderful champagne” he sampled during a 1909 trip to New York nailed the lid on his period of abstinence and convinced him of the necessity of “honorably withdrawing from my various teetotal societies." (He rationalized this reversal to his wife by asserting that “only the forbidden attracts. I think I must not forbid myself too much.”) Indeed, . during the course of his Bailey Island seminar, Jung cited with approval the Medieval monastic custom, during carnival time, of singing obscene fertility hymns at Mass while getting drunk on Communion wine as an effective means of re-establishing a vital connection with the eternal laws of nature; and pointed out that we may only become aware of the continuous stream of the unconscious that is constantly flowing past us, when dreaming or drinking or sickness or exhaustion causes the conscious temporarily to loosen its

M

vise-like grip on our thought processes. However, Jung was also quick to caution his listeners against actively seeking out increased contact with the elusive unconscious, because he believed that being intimately acquainted with it would not be a particularly pleasant experience; and he advised them to be thankful if their own consciousness was a safe boat capable of keeping steady even in the huge swells of the deep sea of the unconscious.

Jung’s unfortunate patient, who— firmly believing that ultimate truth can be settled scientifically and the world explained rationally—ignored his feeling life until he eventually “lost himself completely and took to drink,” also seems to have sensed subconsciously the symbolic possibilities of the ocean, for in one of the four hundred© dreams he dutifully recorded for his doctor, he found himself sitting all alone on an island hill surrounded by the sea as a huge wave washed up on the shore. Jung explained that the approaching wave indicated agitation and an imminent movement of great magnitude in the patient’s unconscious; then he amplified his original analogy by adding that we are all out at sea like ships at night, our consciousness the only speck of light lit up by the projection of our own psychic intensity into the surrounding dark abyss of the unconscious. Hidden forms may rise suddenly up to that ocean's impenetrable, shining surface, but once something drops down under the water, you can no longer see it, even though it still lurks there.

One immediately imagines the participants gazing raptly out to sea after sunset, willingly swept away by the compelling tide of Jung’s simile, possibly even glimpsing the tiny, bright lights of passing ships. But oddly enough, the questions they submitted to Jung after this particular lecture reflect little interest in the uncanny aptness of his metaphor to their location, focusing instead on abstract, erudite topics such as Medieval alchemical experiments and animal symbolism in the New Testament. Possibly some of the attendees also had more clinical con¬

cerns on their minds, for the seminar had been arranged by the three leading Jungian doctors in New York City: Eleanor Bertine, Esther Harding, and Kristine Mann, who, coincidentally, co-founded the Analytical Psychology Club of New York that same year.

These three psychiatrists spent at least a month every summer seeing patients in their large house overlooking the ocean; and Jung, who was their guest during his stay on Bailey Island, followed their example by giving some analytical hours himself in addition to his seminar. owever, ominous events overseas inexorably cast their long shadow over this island idyll, causing Jung himself to be somewhat preoccupied with the political powder keg back in Europe. Prior to quitting Switzerland, he had composed a press communique on the subject of his proposed journey to America “in order to disillusion any attempt to claim me for any particular political party.” In it he wanted “to emphasize that I despise politics wholeheartedly...because I am convinced that 99 per cent of politics are mere symptoms and anything but a cure for social evils. About 50 per cent of politics is definitely obnoxious inasmuch as it poisons the utterly incompetent mind of the masses. We are on our guard against contagious diseases of the body, but we are exasperatingly careless when it comes to the even more dangerous collective diseases of the mind." But while it was his “sincere hope to find more common sense, more social peace, and less insanity in the United States than in the old countries,” he feared that “To discuss such matters in public would be about as successful as if the director of a lunatic asylum were to set out to discuss the particular delusions of his patients in the midst of them.”

This prudent disclaimer notwithstanding, Jung managed to work into his lectures a few telling jibes at the Nazi mentality that was becoming so alarmingly widespread in Germany.

He recalled explaining to a group of Nazis there that the swastika is an unfavorable mandala because it is

turned counter-clockwise in the direction of darkness, magic, and the unconscious. To this one quick-witted Nazi responded that when you’re inside the swastika, it in fact turns clockwise—a movement towards enlightenment. Jung, however, doubted whether anyone could ever truly be inside a big collective movement, because of the tendency for everyone involved to lose all sense of identity with the conscious self and revert to the unconscious condition Jung saw prevailing in Russia, where, he felt, their so-called Communism was no longer tangibly different from Fascism. Neither was Jung willing to let pass the haphazard carminative of projecting the unsuspected darkness in one’s own unconscious onto the nearest scapegoat handy: “...they tell you that they are the most innocent victims of these bad people.

They never realize that wherever they go...they are themselves and if there is a devil in that situation, they have brought it in.” Moreover, the frightening phenomenon of Fascism was further complicated for Jung by his belief that “behind every persecution there lurks a secret love, as doubt behind every fanaticism.”

However, fear for the fate of his homeland and even of his profession—which was frowned upon by the Nazis as a “Jewish science”—did not entirely prevent Jung from enjoying the natural splendors of Maine’s coast. Hannah’s biography affirms that he gladly went sailing and exploring when he could, and later even urged Hannah herself to “Go there if you ever have a chance," because of the “strange and unique impression” made on him by this “still virgin country on which man had made little or no impression, living more in its past than in the present.” (Hannah, who did not make the trip until thirty years later, observes ruefully that when Jung visited Bailey Island, there were far fewer houses on it than there are today.)

Nevertheless, when the moment of departure arrived, Jung and his wife Emma were ready to leave, overwhelmed and exhausted once again by “The most amazing feature of American life...its boundless publici-

Juiy/augusi • Portland Monthly Magazine • 43

ty. Everybody has to meet everybody, and they even seem to enjoy this enormity.” In his essay on “The Complications of American Psychology” Jung claimed that “To a central European such as I am...the lack of distance between people, the absence of hedges or fences round the gardens, the belief in popularity, the gossip columns of the newspapers, the open doors in the houses...the defenselessness of the individual against the onslaught of the press, all this is more than disgusting, it is positively terrifying. You are immediately swallowed by a hot and all-engulfing wave of desirousness and emotional incontinence.” And on an earlier trip to the States in 1909 he had written to Emma, who remained at home, “Our time is dreadfully crammed. The Americans are really masters at that; they hardly leave one time to catch one’s breath. Right now I am rather worn out from all the fabulous things we have been through...My head is spinning...Here one is in an almost constant whirlwind.”

W 1’ o doubt he looked forward to W the "cosmic grandeur and W simplicity, [the] compelling w silence” he would encounter X 1 while on board his ship home “at night when the ocean is alone with the starry sky” out “where the overstimulated psyche can recover in the presence of that infinite peace and spaciousness.” (Hannah reports that Jung assiduously avoided air travel because of the risk of arriving at his destination too quickly and leaving pieces of his psyche behind!)

Indeed, on his return voyage in 1909 he found the ocean to be both inspirational and therapeutic: “The sea is like music: it has all the dreams of the soul within itself and sounds them over. The beauty and grandeur of the sea consists in our being forced down into the fruitful bottomlands of our own psyches, where we confront and recreate ourselves...We brood over the past few months, and the unconscious has a lot of work to do, putting in order all the things America has churned up within us.”

Although his brief stay occurred almost sixty years ago, the mystique

44 • Portland Monthly Magazine • July/august

of Jung’s historic visit still hovers over Bailey Island as tenaciously as the wild roses cling to the crumbling seaward cliffs. If you take it upon yourself to peer inquisitively through the windows of the handsome Bailey Island Library Hall, you may very likely encounter some islanders eager to point out nearby Trident House and explain to you that inside it are three bedrooms with adjacent offices boasting built-in couches for the comfort of patients of the “three lady psychiatrists” who used to take their New York practices north with them as they fled from the city heat every summer. (One wonders if these vacation office hours played a crucial role in financing their prime waterfront real estate!) They will also merrily relate to you how the doctors’ patients stayed in the dapper white “Bayview Cottages” conveniently located right across the street, while—true to form—the local residents lined up eagerly each morning “to watch the crazy people walk up the hill” for treatment.

Jung’s Maine legacy also lives on through the efforts of the C. G. Jung Center at 8 Cumberland Street in Brunswick. The center was founded and endowed in 1988 by the late Mildred Harris, a Jungian-oriented physical therapist whose life had been changed by Jungian analysis and who in return wanted to make the works of Jung available to the people of Maine—the state in which she met for the first time, at his seminar on Bailey Island, the man whose methods of analysis had so deeply affected her, and the state to which she retired after practicing for thirty years in New York City. Brunswick was the logical location because of the ongoing Jung Seminar at Bowdoin College—a program that had already been underway since 1980.

Now jointly sponsored by the Jung Center and the Bowdoin College Department of Religion, the Jung Seminar meets on Tuesday afternoons from 4 to 5:30 p.m. in the Faculty Room in Massachusetts Hall on the Bowdoin campus, resuming this fall on October 1.

In addition to housing a reference collection of books and tapes relating

to analytical psychology, the Jung Center publishes a tri-annual newsletter and sponsors lectures and workshops by internationally recognized speakers as well as informal programs led by local members. Recent activities have included a production of “Forever Jung,” a twentycharacter, one-man play delving deep into the dramatic life and loves of C. G. Jung; a lecture on “Paths of Beauty and Mysticism in a Time of Environmental Despair”; and a workshop on “Creating and Destroying: Dionysiac Images of Dismemberment, Death, and Renewal in Western Art.” This fall the Harris lecture on “The Reality of Dreaming” will be delivered by Robert Bosnak on Friday, October 25 at First Parish Church in Portland, to be followed by a workshop on the same subject on Saturday, October 26 in Brunswick. The program will be framed by the presenter’s conversations with an Australian Aboriginal dream doctor. For information on registration and membership, contact the C. G. Jung Center at 729-0300. nd for those with a literary bent, there remains yet another unexpected Maine-Jung connection. In 1911 Jung wrote Symbols of Transformation: An Analysis of the Prelude to a Case of Schizophrenia—a 460-page study of the dream symbolism of one Miss Miller, a young American woman whose richly recorded fantasies had been published by Jung’s friend Theodore Flournoy in Archives de Psychologic in Geneva. Jung devoted nearly 50 pages of his hefty chapter on “The Dual Mother” to the exploration of an epic poem that had such a great influence on Miss Miller that Jung felt compelled to read it himself in order to continue interpreting her fantasies. The work in question? None other than Henry Wadsworth Longfellow’s famous “Song of Hiawatha,” which apparently had a considerable effect on Jung as well, prompting him to enthuse, “This poetical compilation of Indian myths proved to my satisfaction how justified were all my previous reflections."

■

★★★★

A Portland Dining Guide The Audubon Room at the Inn by the Sea on Route 77 in Cape Elizabeth combines breathtaking views of the Atlantic Ocean with culinary masterpieces that feature fresh local produce, native seafood specialties, and exceptional homemade breads and desserts prepared on the premises. Some house favorites include Grilled Salmon with an Orange Basil Vinaigrette, Sauteed Oysters with Porcini and Champagne, and Lemon Custard Tart with Maine Blueberries. Patio dining and carry-out available. 767-0888.

Known for its fine service and ambience, Baker's Table at 434 Fore Street and 41 Wharf Street is an intimate bistro complete with an outdoor deck and an open kitchen that has been serving up lobsters, shellfish, and fresh fish for over 25 years. Prime beef and filet mignon are cooked to perfection, and you can also sample fresh pastas, special vegetarian dishes, Tex-Mex, and ethnic dishes. There's a full bar and wines, and a bakery with daily breads and desserts, as well as great soups, salads, and sandwiches served from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Call 775-0303. Fax orders: 761 -4444. For parties call 773-3333.

Bangkok City Thai and Seafood Restaurant, One City Center. Formerly known as Thai Garden Restaurant, the finest Thai restaurant in Maine is now open under new management with a new reducedprice menu. Specializing in seafood dishes and other authentic Thai recipes prepared by an experienced chef, Bangkok City is open for dinner seven days a week with a lunch buffet Monday-Friday. Catering, take-out, delivery ($20 minimum order), and free onehour parking at One City Center Parking Garage are available. For reservations call 772-1118.

Cafe Stroudwater, located in the Embassy Suites Hotel at the Portland Jetport, specializes in American bistro cuisine with an emphasis on native seafood and prime cuts of meat, but it is Chef William Boutwell’s creative touches—like shrimp and lobster Napoleon with grilled eggplant, goat cheese, and red peppers served over a tomato coulis—that make this dining experience like no other in Portland. In addition to a spectacular Sunday brunch, the Cafe also offers wine dinners, Portland’s only Chef’s Table, and a fine selection of locally brewed beers. For reservations call 775-0032.

Carbur's Restaurant,123 Middle Street, Portland, offers great food in a casual and relaxed atmosphere.

Take some time to enjoy your favorite cocktail or soft drink as you read over the extensive menu with selections ranging from Teriyaki Sirloin or Chicken to Fish’n’Chips, not to mention the munchies and salads.

And if it’s a sandwich you seek, you’ve found the right place: over 70 outrageous “Grandwich" combinations are available. 772-7794.

The Clay Oven, 565 Congress Street, serves authentic Indian cuisine in a relaxed atmosphere. The moist kebabs are cooked on a slow charcoal fire, while the curries are prepared with freshly ground herbs and spices. Their exotic soups, fresh-baked breads, and savory rice specialties are also sure to please your palate. The Clay Oven is open for lunch and dinner, and beer, wine, and take-out are available. 773-1444.

At David’s Restaurant you can sample four-star

entries featuring farm-fresh produce and native products like seafood sausage, sesame and coriander crusted tuna, or goat cheese packets with grilled vegetables (773-4340). David's at the Oyster Club, set in a converted open air market building, boasts an abundant raw bar, 20 varieties of seafood, lobster, fresh pasta, microbrews, and Maine’s largest single malt scotches list (773-4340). Turino's Stone Oven Pizzeria combines wild mushrooms, prosciutto, artichoke hearts, and fresh herbs to create authentic gourmet pizza from old Naples (780-6600). All three restaurants are located at 164 Middle Street.

You can't beat the location of DtMillo’s Floating Restaurant at 25 Long Wharf off Commercial Street for fabulous waterfront views of Portland Harbor. Escape from the hustle and bustle of the city by watching the boats go by as you enjoy fresh Maine lobster served year-round, steak, seafood dishes, and more. Open 7 days a week from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., with a children’s menu available. For drinks and a lighter menu, try their Portside Lounge. 772-2216.

Welcome to F. Parker Reidy’s, site of the original Portland Savings Bank built in 1866 at 83 Exchange Street. Established in 1976 during the Renaissance of the Old Port area, F. Parker Reidy’s has become a Portland fine dining tradition, specializing in steaks and fresh seafood, but also offering pasta, chicken, and salads, with prime rib featured on weekends. Turn-ofthe-century decor, personalized service, and great food create a warm and congenial atmosphere popular for both business and intimate dining. 773-4731.

Head over to Fresh Market Pasta at 43 Exchange Street/60 Market Street for the best homemade pastas and sauces in Portland, not to mention a variety of fantastic Italian breads, Italian wine and beers, espresso, cappuccino, biscotti, and other delicious desserts. Bring the whole family for lunch, dinner, and late night dining. 773-7146.

Deep in the heart of the mysterious Woodfords area at 540 Forest Avenue is The Great Lost Bear, where you’ll find a full bar featuring over 50 (that's right, five-o) draught beers, predominantly from local microbreweries. Accompanying them is an enormous menu with everything from soups, salads, and sandwiches to steaks and ribs, as well as a large vegetarian selection and the best nachos and buffalo wings in town. Discover where the natives go when they're restless! Serving from 11:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m. seven days a week. 772-0300. Visit us online at: http://www.mainelink.net/bear/ At the Market Street Grille in the Portland Regency Hotel, spectacular cuisine. Old Port charm, and impeccable service come together in an elegant yet casual environment. Along with daily fresh specials featuring foods from land and sea, the Grille's chef prepares unforgettable feasts like Seafood Fettucine with lobster, shrimp, and mussels; Baked Lobster with seafood stuffing; Steak Diane Tenderloin; and Veal Scaloppini. Visit 31 Market Street for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Reservations accepted. 774-4200.

Voted “Best Pizza in Maine’ for five consecutive years by the PPH and CBW, Ricetta’s Brick Oven Pizzeria

is truly a taste of the Old Country. M.E. Curly of the PPH raves: "Ricetta’s is arguably the best pizza west of Rome." Dine-in. take-out, delivery, and catering are available, and the all-you-can-eat gourmet lunch buffet includes pizzas, pastas, soups, and salads. With their newly expanded dining room you won't have to wait a lifetime for the best meal in town. Located at 29 Western Avenue, South Portland. Kids eat FREE on Mondays from 3 p.m. till close. 775-7400.

Saigon Thinh Thanh, 608 Congress Street, Portland. Just across Congress Square from the Sonesta Hotel and the Portland Museum of Art is Maine’s—and probably New England's—finest Vietnamese restaurant. Four-star, spicy, exotic tastes jump from the delicious fish, pork, shrimp, and scallop dishes that include Vegetable Sate Rice Vermicelli, Bean Curd with Garlic Rice Vermicelli, Scallops with Snow Peas, and extraordinary curries and specials. 773-2932.

Fresh lobsters, shellfish, salmon, and local fish have been specialties at the historic Seamen’s Club for over three generations, while aged beef, prime rib, quiches, fresh pasta, vegetarian and southwestern selections, home-baked breads and desserts, and fresh fruits and vegetables round out the menu. The best weekend brunches on the planet include soups, turkey sandwiches, and salads, and a full bar is always available. The Lunch and “Lite" menus are served from 11 a m. to 11 p.m. in a comfortable setting overlooking the harbor at 1 Exchange Street and 375 Fore Street in the hub of the Old Port. Call 772-7311. Fax orders: 761-4444. No room charges ever for banquets and meetings: 773-3333.

Celebrate food at Squire Morgan’s, where you’ll find home cooking in a relaxed atmosphere. Lunch specials start at $4.95 and include a wide variety of soups, salads, chowders, sandwiches, burgers, and freshdough pizza. Dinner specials feature fresh grilled seafood in many different ethnic styles, as well as vegetarian and pasta dishes. Selections from their unique wine list are available by the glass or the bottle.

Stop by 46 Market Street in front of the Portland Regency for great food and drink in the heart of the Old Port. 774-5246.

Tabitha Jean’s Restaurant at 94 Free Street offers you zesty American regional cuisine in a casual setting that is handicapped accessible and convenient to the Slate Theatre, the Civic Center, and the downtown arts district. Their fresh seafood, pasta, vegetarian dishes, grilled dntrees, homemade desserts, and extensive wine selection received an enthusiastic four-and-a-haffstar rating from Maine Sunday Telegram. Validated parking is available. 780-8966.

Tortilla Flat has been serving New Englanders fine Mexican food and drink for over 24 years. At 1871 Forest Avenue in Portland you can find favorites like nachos, fajitas, chimichangas, tamales, burritos. tacos, enchiladas, and frozen margaritas seven days a week, as well as seafood, steak, pork, and chicken cooked with a Mexican flair. With lunch specials starting at $3.95, a children’s menu, nightly specials, a Chili Happy Hour, a screened-in deck, and take-out, Tortilla Flat is a memorable Mexican experience you can afford any time. 797-8729.

A GUIDE TO MAINE’S FESTIVALS ■ 29th Annual Yarmouth Clam Festival, Yarmouth. Head

on down to Main Street July 19-21 to eat your fill of raw clams. steamed clams, clam cakes, clam chowder, stuffed clams, friixl clams (in batter and in crumbs), clam rolls, and “everything you can think of with clams." Don’t worry if you’re not all that into clams—there’ll be lots of other kinds of fixxl and activities too. such as carnival rides, a craft show, a bike race, the Royal River canoe race, dancing, juggling, comedians, a diaixrr derby for crawlers and toddlers. barlwrshop choruses, fireworks, parades, and much more, not to mention entertainment provided by the Bellamy Jazz Band. Anni Clark, Doc’s Banjo Band, the Casco Bay Movers, Pacto Andino. Ellen and the Sea Slugs, Devonsquare, the Wicked Gocxl Band, the Blue Hill Brass Quintet, the Tony Boffa Band, and many others. Everything's free but the food, and as you might expect, the winner of the Clam Shucking contest (Maine's State Champion) receives a cash prize plus a jx*ck of clams. Cali 846-6660.

Benford and Peter Jones, pianist John Clark Stiefel, vocal artist Philip Hamilton, and percussionist Tony Vacca to perform original and improvised music from around the globe on instruments as diverse as African balafon and talking drums. Indian tablas, Middle Eastern doumbek.

South American flutes, accordion, piano, and more at 7:30 p.m. on August 8 in Olin Concert Hal! (free). August 9 at 8 p.m. and August 10 at 7 p.m. in Schaeffer Theatre, Doug Varone and Dancers present two new works: "Let’s Dance"—a post-modern approach to swing and jazz—and "In Thine Eyes"—a duet to a score by Michael Nyman ($12/58). After that, “Moving in the Moment" is an evening of improvisational dance and music with contact Improviser Nancy Stark Smith and members of the

Native American Appreciation Days,

Cumlx*rland Fairgrounds, Septeml>cr 7-8. from 9 am. to 5 p.m. Traditional dancing and drumming, children's crafts, demonstrations of basket weaving, flint knapping, beadwork, and more. A wildlife rehabilitator will present as a guest shaker. as well as legend keepers, story tellers, three chiefs of different nations, and the Director of Central Maine Indian Affairs. Also featured: traders. Native American foexf. and a Navajo soup kitchen. See the grand entry parade! This is the 6th annual celebration; cost is $4 for adults. $3 for students; children under 6 free. 934-2502.

Bailey Island Tuna Tournament, Bailey Island,

has Ix^en held every year since 1938, with only a brief intermission for World War 11. Participants in this family sport fishing event held July 22-27 strive to catch the biggest giant bluefin tuna, swordfish, mako shark, cod. pollack, striped bass, bluefish, and mackerel in order to win daily and overall prizes ranging from a brand new GMC truck to cash to fishing equipment. At Cook's Lobster House you can watch the fish being weighed as they come in and also browse through the hats, T-shirts, and trophies on display at the "Tuna Boutique." To receive an entry form, send a SASE to the Casco Bay Tuna Club, Box 202, Bailey Island. ME 04003 or call 833-5531.

Rangelcy Lakes Region Logging Museum Festival,

Rangeley, takes place July 26-27 at the museum itself, at the Kuigelry Inn, and on Main Street. Highlights include loggers' competitions that involve tossing axes and fourfoot pieces of pulp weighing over 30 pounds, chainsaw carving demonstratkxis by "The Mad Whittier," the “Uttlc Miss Woodchip" pageant, clogging by the Maine Attraction from Arundel, inductions into the Loggers’ Hall of Fame, heavy equipment displays and exhibitions, a craft show, children's games, door prizes, a parade, and of course the burying of the bean-hole beans. 864-5571.

Maine Quilts *96, Waterville, will be held July 26-28 in the Alfond Athletic Center at Colby College from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Friday-Saturday and from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. on Sunday. The show will feature close to 300 quilts from all over Maine on display, as well as thirty-two vendors of quilting fabrics anil patterns selling their wares, quilting workshops for all levels, and many quilting-related door prizes. This year's raffIe quilt is a queen-sized group quilt called "99 Houses" ($5 donation at the door). 772-6568.

Bates Dance Festival, h>wiston, annually brings together 160 chori'ographers, [X'rformers, educators, and students to study, |X'rform, and create new work, while offering the general public the op|x>rtunity to attend a stunning array of dance |M‘rformances. First off. Contraband performs ‘Return to Ordinary IJfc: the Epic Conclusion of the Mira Trilogy." based on the life and writings of the 16th-century Indian poet Mirabai July 26-27 at 8 p.m in Schaeffer Theater ($12 adults/$8 students and seniors). Next, the Liz Lerman Dance Exchange presents a program of |X'rs<x>ally insightful and humorous works August 1-2 at 8 p.m. in Schaeffer Theatre ($12/58). Following that is a World Music Dance Party with jazz, juju, samba, blues, and West African music by Tony Vacca and Friends at 8 p.m cxi August 3 in the Alumni Gym ($5). Then "Different Voices" is the annual Faculty Gala featuring artists-inresideix-e Sean Curran. Nia love, I j Chiao-Ping, members of the Liz Lerman Dance Exchange, and international visiting artists in an eclectic evening of dance at 7 p.m. on August 4 in Schaeffer Theatre ($12/58). The "Comjxisers’ Project" brings together multi-instrumentalists Tigger

46 • PORTlAND MONTHLY MAGAZINE • JuLY/ADGUST

Native American Appreciation Days, September 7 and 8, at the Cumberland Fairgrounds.

festival faculty on August 13 at 8 p.m. in the Alumni Gym (free). Next up is the “Young Choreographers/New Works" showcase in Schaeffer Theatre August 15-16 at 8 p.m., which highlights emerging choreographers, festival students, and community participants of all ages ($6). lastly, at 7 p.m. on August 17 at an outdoor site TBA, the environmental performance Equinox re-creates an ancient African Congo life cycle ritual (free), which will lx? followed at 8 p.m. in the Alumni Gym by the Student Finale, an evening of modern, jazz, and dance/theater works created by Doug Varone, Dwight Rhoden, Sean Curran, and Contraband and performed by festival students from around the world together with local youth participants ($4). For advance reservations call 786-6161.

24th Annual East Benton fiddler’s Convention, held at Shirley Littlefield’s farm in East Benton, has become so popular since its inception that they've had to move it from the Littlefield's front yard to the big field down the road in order to accommodate the ever-increasing crowds. This year on July 28 from 11 a.m. till 5 p.m., rain or shine, you can listen to junior and adult fiddlers from near and far comjx?te for $900 in cash prizes, and catch an earful of Old Gray Goose, Country Choir, Scott Markee, and the l^st Benton Jug Band (an open jam session).

Admission is $6 (children under 12 free), and there are no bottles or dogs allowed. Call 453-2017.

Cajun Fest, Kennebunkport. If the sound of Marlon

Saturday morning, a Roman Catholic mass celebrated by Bishop Michael Cote on Sunday morning, a Civil War encampment, fireworks, demonstrations by “The Mad Whittier," and a lumberman’s competition. Admission is $3 per day or $7 for the whole weekend (children under 12 admitted free with an adult). Call 782-6231.

Maine Festival, Brunswick. This year’s theme—a “Downeast Smile-In"—was chosen to honor the late storyteller and humorist Marshall Dtxige (of “Bert and I" fame), who founded the festival twenty years ago to foster and celebrate Maine’s creative spirit. Over 1,000 artists from Maine and around the world will converge on Thomas Point Beach August 1-4 for non-stop music, theater, dance, arts and crafts, literary programs, children's activities, woodworking, micro-brewing, films, storytelling, and much more. Performers such as Tim Sample. Kate Barnes, Ram Island Dance Company, and the Wicked Good Band are only the tip of the iceberg. $10 for adults, $6 for children under 12. $25 for a family. 772-9012 or (800) 63CM212.

Maine Ixrbster Festival, Rockland. If red-ccx>ked crustaceans send you off into ecstasies of gustatory delight, don't miss your chance to step right up to the world’s largest lobster cooker for a 1-1/4 pound Maine original complete with hot drawn butter, roll, and chips for only around $7.50. (There will be other food available for closet lobster-haters.) While you’re at Harbor Park August 1-4, you can also go on boat and train rides; attend the Maine Sea Goddess Coronation Pageant; watch the Main Street parade, the children's parade, and the Great International Lobster Crate Race; visit marine exhibits, commercial exhibits, and a U.S. Navy ship; and enjoy great entertainment, carnival rides, children’s activities, seafood, waterfront activities, and more. For a free brochure, call (800) LOB-CLAW. Maine Antiques Festival, Union, boasts over 350 dealers offering 18th through early 20th century antiques comprising everything from formal to folk art. Held both indoors and outdoors at the Union Fairgrounds August 911, the show goes on rain or shine and features lots of great Maine food, free parking, and packing and shipping facilities right on the grounds (admission $8). Early birds interested in previewing the show at 4 p.m. Friday evening while the dealers are setting up may do so for a $25 fee that includes admission for the entire weekend and early re-entry at 8 am. on Saturday. Call 563-1013.

St. Rocco’s Street Bazaar, Portland. Ever since 1925, the highlight of this Italian heritage festival held at St. Peter's Roman Catholic Church on Federal Street has been the kids' greasy pole climb. The first |X)le to be greased was a ship’s mast, which was eventually replaced by a telephone pole, which was in turn superseded by the 20foot aluminum pole in use today. Youthful contestants often cooperate in their efforts to capture the flag at the top, and then split the $150 prize. (During the Depression, when fixxl was scarce, salamis attached to the top of the pole were the only reward.) Federal Street is closed to traffic August 10-11 while the thirty-piece Italian Heritage Band performs both nights, a spaghetti dinner is served on Sunday afternoon, children's games abound, and 510,000 people feast on Italian sausage, pasta, fried dough, and "pizza by the truckload." 773-0748.

Brando shouting “Stella1Stella'" has been ringing in your ears ever since you saw “A Streetcar Named Desire." don't miss this golden opixirtunity to watch the trolley car itself lead the narrated parade of over twenty of the Seashore Trolley Museum’s finest streetcars at 1:30 p.m. on August 3. The festivities begin at 11:30 a.m. with Dixieland jazz played by the Bob Carabia Trio and an authentic Cajun luncheon featuring the secret New Orleans recipes of Chef Roger Bastarachc. Admission tis $8 for adults, $6 for seniors. $4.50 for children, and $25 for a family (children under 6 get in free). Call 967-2800.

Transportation Rally and Aerobatic Show, Owls Head.

Festival de Joie, l^wiston, is a four-day celebration of Franco-American heritage and culture held August 1-1 in and around the Central Maine Civic Center on Birch Street. Of course there will be plenty of favorite French fexxis like tourtidres, boudin, crejx's, and creton readily available, as well as plenty of Franco-American music, country, jazz, bluegrass, and even Scottish bagpipes.

Other activities include a teen dance Friday evening, a special children’s program with magicians and clowns on

Chocolate Festival, York Harbor, held at St. George’s

Autos, antique engines, bicycles, aircraft, motorcycles, and more will congregate at the Owls Head Trans|x>rtation Museum August 10-11 while the Wheelmen give high-wheel bicycle demonstrations and an exciting air show fills the skies. On September 1, the Antique Motorcycle Meet and Airshow will feature pioneer aircraft flying overhead and over 100 vintage motorcycles (owners of pre-1975 cycles who bring their bikes receive free admission). Admission is $6 for adults, $4 (or children. $16 for families. Call 594-4418.

Episcopal Church from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. on August 16, should be delectable enough to tempt even the bestintentioned recovering chocoholics to fall off the wagon just this once. Proceeds from the sale of all the homemade cakes, pies. bars, squares, cookies, and hand dipped candies go to benefit the church library, but bear in mind that latecomers may well lx: losers: last year by 11:30 the pickings were already slim! If your mouth is

■ FESTIVALS ■

Back Bay Tower now offers fully furnished corporate apartments completely equipped for convenient and comfortable living for the business person preferring a home "’W -J nfnr tjnr J? environment versus a hotel setting.

11 in un Back Bay Tower is Portland's finest A dl I address offering great views, superb intown location in the heart of the yu’rjr M tn business district, Portland's finest J Li dining and cultural offerings.

watering so much by now that you know your gcxxlies will never make it home intact, why not plan on taking advantage of the tables and beverage's available on the s|X>t? Call 361-1767.

Machias Blueberry Festival, Machias. Of course there’s a blueberry pancake breakfast and a blueberry pie eating contest, but would you lx*lievr blueberry pizza?

Anything and everything involving those round, blue, and tasty Maine' specialties is eligible- for the- wild blueberry baking contest, the- wild blueberry dessert bar. and the wild blueberry bake sale in downtown Machias August IG-l 7 (rain date August 18). Nott-edible attractions include a children’s parade, a “home'-grown” musical entitled Berry, Berry, Blueberries, a used book sale, a craft festival, an art exhibit, a blueberry’ quilt display, historical te>urs, an auction, a band concert, a five-mile bluetjerry run. and a one-day only U.S. Postal Service substation with a special blueberry cancellation stamp. Call 2556665.

BACK BAY TOWER

The many amenities you will enjoy:

Sidewalk Art Festival, Portland, will monopolize

Congress Street from Monument Square to Congress Square all day on August 17 (rain date: August 18).

Sponsored by 6-Alive!. this thirty-one-year-old festival attracts over 350 high-caliber artists from around the country’ to com|X‘te for the $20,000 in prize money and the patronage of the 50.000 potential buyers exacted to descend u|x>n Portland in honor of the occasion. The winning paintings from the juried show will be on display in the Sweat Gallery of the Portland Museum of Art August 17-25 during regular museum hours. For more information call 82^6666.

Spring Point Festival, South Portland, is a free family festival that begins at 8 a.m. on August 17 at the Southern Maine Technical College athletic field. The activities are many and varied, including a pancake breakfast, a parade, pony rales, hayrides, a Portland fireboat water display, fun in the firemen’s foam, a fireman’s muster, a children's sawdust search for coins, children's races, a petting zoo, sailboat rides, a cakecutting to celebrate SMTC's 50th anniversary, and entertainment by Swinging Hot (swing band), Julie and Brownie (children’s entertainers), and Northeast Winds (Irish folk songs). For more information call 767-9500.

Riverfest ’96, Kennebunkport. If you thought duck

hunters were the only people interested in life-sized duck decoys, think again! In Kennebunkport on August 17. several hundred decoys sjx'cially decorated by local businesses will be entered cither in the “show duck" competition or in the duck race down the Kennebunk River. Other river races involve kayaks, canoes. and even rublwr duckies ($1,000 cash prize for the latter).

Two to three thousand jx'ople usually turn up to watch the races and enjoy the "Made in Maine" crafts fair, canoe and kayak rentals, children's activities, musical and theatrical entertainment, and unique attractions such as a decoy autographed by President Bush that was once auctioned off for several hundred dollars.

Admission is fret* Call 985-6388 for more information.

• Distinctive 2 and 3 bedroom apartments • “Florida Room” featuring lap pool, • Flexible lease terms exercise alcove and saunas • “Turnkey" furnishings option • Twenty-four hour laundry • Concierge service • Drycleaning service • Underground parking • Half-acre terrace beautifully landscaped

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■^e heater The Shakespearean Theater of Maine

Maine Highland Games, Brunswick. Thrill to the skirl of bagpijX's on August 17. when the St. Andrew's Scxiety of Maine simulates Scotland at Thomas Point Beach This year's festivities include a Highland wedding, a reenactment of the Battle of Culloden, pipe band performances. Scottish athletic competitions (i e.. hurling telephone poles, rocks, hay. sausages, and rolling pins as far as you possibly can), highland dancing. Ixtrder collie herding demonstrations, a parade of tartans. Scottish country dancing, Scottish music, children’s games, Scottish arts and crafts, Scottish imports. Scottish foods. Highland cattle, genealogical assistance IxxHhs, and representatives of over fifty clans and Scottish organizations $8 for adults, $-1 for children (children under 6 free). 361-3063 or 515-2132.

Dance Portland, Portland Performing Aris Center, is the fifth annual gathering of Maine’s foremost dancers and choreographers for three days of great dance and innovation. At the Choreography Showcase from 10 am. to 1 pm. on August 17. new works by professional and student choreographers are premiered and judged to determine which will receive cash awards and ix'rformances (free admission). The following weekend, al 8 p.m. August 252-1, the Portland Ballet Company will premiere Samuel Kurkjian’s new ballet H 'itches of Salem.

New pieces by choreographers Eduardo Marsica). Brian Crabtree. Melissa Cloutier, Kelly Holyoke, Debbie Irons.

Randy James. Sara Whale, and Blink’ will also be

Always a classic! in air-conditioned

CUMSTON HALL Main Street (Rte. 132) P.O. Box 385 Monmouth, ME 04259

207-933-9999

♦ Shakespeare's As

YOU Like It

♦ Charles Dickens' Hard Tinies ♦ Shakespeare’s

The Winter's Tale

♦ Shaw's Arms

and the Man

♦ and our August childrens’ show

Once Upon A Wolf in rotating repertoryfrom

July 5 through August 31

Jl'LY/AUGUST • PORTLAND MONTHLY MAGAZINE • 47

■ FESTIVALS ■ performed. along with the winning dances from the Choreography Showcase (tickets cost $14 for adults and $10 for children and seniors). 775-4253.

Great Falls Balloon Festival, Iziwiston-Auburn. Up. up.

and away! August 23-25 thirty-five colorful hot-air balloons—including a 118-foot high by 131-foot long rendition of Smaug, the fearsome dragon from J. R. R. Tolkien's The Hobbit—will be hovering above downtown UA. Spectators can watch the balloons get inflated and lift off from 5:30 to 7 pm. on Friday and from 5:30 to 7:30 a.m. and 5:30 to 7:30 p.m. on Saturday and Sunday. (A 30-45 minute champagne balloon ride costs $150 per person.) All ages arc also sure to enjoy the parades, children’s activities, carnival, food court, exhibits, and musical entertainment (free admission). (800) 639-6331.

Maine's best vacation packages.

With more than 100 stores, 15 restaurants, and an arcade, all under one roof, you’re sure to enjoy a trip to the Maine Mall.

MaineMall Take Exit 7 off the Maine Turnpike to 364 Maine Mall Road So. Portland. ME 04106 • (207) 774-0303

Potato Feast Days, Houlton. Attention seafood haters: here’s your big chance to enjoy a famous Maine food that doesn’t come out of the ocean! Whether you prefer them baked, mashed, in salad, or scalloped, you're sure to find spuds galore (and much more!) in downtown Houlton August 23-25. While you're contemplating how relaxing it is to be able to eat potatoes without also having to peel them, don't miss the potato barrel-rolling contest, the children’s potato games (jumping in a potato sack, walking with a potato between the knees, anti balancing a potato on a wuxxlen s|xx>n). parade of dolls, sunrise sale, quilt show, arts and crafts fair, classic car show and cruise, flea market, band concert, auction, community chorus concert, and guided historic walking tours. Call 532-4216.

Bluegrass Festival, Brunswick. From August 30 to September 1 traditional bluegrass musicians from all over the country will briefly migrate north for l-abor Day weekend to fill Thomas Point Beach with the “high lonesome sound” of the southern Appalachian Mountains. Slated to perform this year are Ricky Skaggs and his Bluegrass Band, the New Coon Creek Girls, the Bluegrass Patriots, the Schankman Twins, and others too numerous to mention. Tickets for Friday cost $20.

Saturday tickets cost $25 ($15 after 5 p.m.), Sunday tickets cost $30, and a 3-day pass that includes camping costs $60 (children under 12 free). 725-6009.

Windjammer Weekend, Camden. You may feel as if you’ve stepped back in time August 30-September 1 when two- and three-masted schooners begin sailing into Camden Harbor to take part in festivities reminiscent of the days when hundreds of these coastal schooners lined the waterfront. The windjammers will be open to the public for touring, sea shanty singers and dancers will perform on the town landing, and there will be fireworks, contra dancing, and an antique boat parade. Other activities include lobster crate races. modcl-lx>at racing, a sailing dinghy race, and a singlehanded rowing race; games, juggling, and a matinee for children; and even a Gilbert and Sullivan pnxluction in the Amphitheater. Admission is free; cal) 2364461.

Friendly, family run Motel & Restaurant with Conference Center nestled in a private, tranquil setting, overlooking romantic Chick's Cove, in the heart of the scenic, historical village of Kennebunkport, hlinutesfrom the beach, Dock Square shops and local attractions, we have 32 rooms all with cable television, private bath, A/C & heat control, and telephones. Fireside lobby and lounges, outdoor and indoor heated pool. Groups welcome and comfortably accommodated. Fine Dining at The Changing Tide Restaurant & Lounge - featuring seasonal menus and entertainment on weekends. Whether you 're planning a romantic getaway, business conference or a vacation with the family, The Village Cove bin is t/ie perfect place to enjoy the Maine Seacoast's seductive pleasures.

Open Year Round. Call for information about our Special Packages.

BAYBERRY ROOM CONFERENCE & SEMINAR CENTER Business meetings, conferences, seminars - small or large - we can meet your every need. Packages with lodging and meals available. We tailor our facilities and menus to suit your tastes and requirements.

Call for Information & Planning.

48 • Portland Monthly Magazine • July/august

Changing Tide

Restaurant & Lou nge

Village Cove Inn

On the cove, Kennebunkport, ME 04046

1-800-879-5778 (207) 967-3993 • Fax:207-967-3164

Laudholm Nature Crafts Festival, Wells. What do stoneware, pottery, baskets, paintings, sculpture, jewelry, dried flowers, photography, quilts, homespun yarn, stained glass, brass dtxjr knockers, and paper quilling have in common? At the Wells Reserve at Laudholm Farm off Route I, all these items for sale September 7-8 will lx- made of natural materials and/or incorporate some asjx'ct of the natural world into their designs and subject matter. From 10 a m. to 4 p.m. you can enjoy the spectacular setting of this historic saltwater farm overlooking the ocean, browse through the displays, attend crafts demonstrations, and take advantage of free estuary tours through the seven miles of foot trails encompassing fields, woods, marsh, and beach. Admission is free, but there’s a $5 parking fee (proceeds lx?nefit the research programs of the Wells National Estuarine Research Reserve). Call 646-1555.

Common Ground Country Fair, Windsor, offers jx'ople

from all views and walks of life the opixirtunity to come together and share their insights on how to live in better harmony with the natural world. Highlights of this gigantic celebration of environmentally-friendly rural living held September 20-22 include the cver-popular manure pitch-off, a kids’ pig-calling contest, and a fiddling contest, as well as innumerable ongoing exhibits and demonstrations and incomparable organic cuisine.

Tickets are $6 for adults. $2 for children and seniors (on Friday children and seniors get in free). Call 6164521.

■ LISTINGS ■ Chestnut Tree Inn

MUSIC Portland Opera Repertory Theatre, 74 Oide Colony

Innkeepers: Cynthia Diana & Ron St. Laurent

IxUtc, Cape Elizabeth, now in its second season, presents a fully-staged, fully-costuined production of Puccini’s Madama Butterfly in the original Italian with English su]>ertitles on Tuesday, July 30; Thursday, August 1; and Saturday, August 3 at 8 p.m. at the State Theatre. $1G$41, with discounts for students and seniors. 879-1112.

Friends of the Kotzschmar Organ, P.O. Box 7455,

93 Shore Road, P.O. Box 2201 Ogunquit, ME 03907 207-646-4529 • 1-SOO-362-O757

Portland. While the mighty Kotzschmar is dismantled during the City Hall renovations, the 84th Summer Organ Concert Series will be held at St. Luke’s Cathedral on State Street at 7:30 p.m. on Tuesday evenings ($5 suggested donation at the door). This year’s recitalists include Portland Municipal Organist Ray Cornils on July 23. Boston Pops Organist Berj Zamkochian on July 30, John Weaver on August 6. David Schrader on August 13, Frederick Hohman on August 20. and Michael Stairs on August 27. For further information. call 774-3427.

The LARK Sodety for Chamber Music, Box 11, Port kind.

As part of the Colby String Quartet Workshop, the Portland String Quartet will be giving two concerts at 7:30 p.m. in Lorimer Chaix'! on the Colby campus. On the program for Tuesday, July 30 are Beethoven’s Quartet No. 11 in f minor Op. 95 "Serioso," Mozart’s Quartet No. 19 in C Major K. 465 "Dissonant,’’ and Dvorak's Quartet No. 14 in Ab Major Op. 105 The Tuesday, August 6 performance will include Mendelssohn's Quartet No. 3 in D Major Op. 44/1, Schulx*rt's Quartet No. 14 in d minor D. 810 “Death and the Maiden," and "Poem for String Quartet" by Rebecca Clarke. $10 for adults. $7 (or students/seniors. 872-3386.

On Portland’s Waterfront

State Theatre, 609 Congress Street. Portland. Solo

Enjoy the salty atmosphere of Portland’s window on the water!

acoustic entertainer John Hiatt returns to the State for an unprecedented fifth performance at 8 p.m. on Thursday, August 8, followed by a night of rockin’ country music from Asleep at the Wheel at 8 p.m. on Sunday. August 11.879-1112.

Or — experience the view and a whiff of the sea on our waterfront patio! ★ ★★i Toste & Tell — Maine Sunday Telegram December 5, 1993

V,

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Lafayette Center Downtown Kennebunk 207/985-3874 Mon.-Sat. 9:30 am-5:00pm

Cumberland County Civic Center,

o

Our Full Menu Served ,o from 11 am to Midnight s Best Steamers in Town

LOG CABIN

1 Civic Center Square, Portland. Jackson Browne comes to town at 8 p.m. on Saturday. August 3 (tickets $24.50 and $32.50), followed by Meatloaf in concert at 8 p.m. on Friday, August 16 (tickets $25). Box office: 775-3458.

Simple Things For Simple Living

Portland’s Downtown District, 400 Congress Street, is once again sponsoring a weekday series of free noontime concerts in Portland's downtown parks and plazas. This year's lineup includes: flutist Karen Hansen on July 22 in Post Office Park (PO); Anni Clark (acoustic (olk/rock/blues) on July 23 in Congress Square (CS).

“African Images Come Alive" by Alfinoda Farray and Oscar Mokeme on July 24 in Tommy’s Park (TP); Toboggan on July 25 (TP); the Bellamy Jazz Band (Dixieland) on July 26 in Monument Square (MS); Murphy’s l.aw Breakers (traditional acoustic trio) on July 29 (TP); cellist Anne Cure on July 30 (CS); the Alternative Transportation Fair on July 31 (PO); Papa Ixjves Mambo (dance rhythms duo) on August 1 (TP); the Top 40 country band Back Forty on August 2 (MS), folk/blues vocalist Pam Baker on August 5 (l*O); Zairian music by Bernard Tshmongolay on August 6 (CS); Sun Choe and friends (painting with brush and ink and stories) on August 7 (TP); the Piners down-home duo on August 8 (TP); Pamas of Portland (Philippine dancing) on August 9 (MS); Hawk’s Native American flute music on August 12 (PO); Rakish Paddy (Irish music and sea chanteys) on August 13 (CS); the whimsical family music of Tangletoons on August 14 (TP); singcr/songwriter Joshua Russel on August 15 (TP); Full Circle Women's Ensemble (a cap|x*lla songs of diversity) on August 16 (PO); a display of quilts on August 19 (PO); singer/songwriter Abbe Anderson on August 20 (CS); the Teen Choristers singing songs specially for kids on August 21 (TP); Michael Danahy on August 22 (TP); singer and blues guitarist Ramblin’ Dan Stevens on August 23 in Lobsterman Park; Tom Pirozzoli (acoustic folk rock) on August 26 (PO); the acoustic rock of Pat Foley on August 27 (CS); Julie and Brownie's songs for children on August 28 (TP); folk revue on August 29 (TP); and original a cappella music and movement by Tori. Anncgret. and Andrea on August 30 (MS). Call 7726828 for details.

West Shore Motel on Long Lake

pine rooms. screened |x>rches. (.’lose to restaurants, activities, and shopping. Open Mav through October, including the beautiful fall-foliage season.

Season rates, July through Labor Day No pets. 2.5 hours from Boston.

Reservations: 207-693-9277

PO. Box 869. Naples, ML 04055

Portland Parks & Recreation, 17 Arbor Street. Portland, presents another “Summer in the Parks" scries of free outdoor concerts Tuesday evening performers in Deering Oaks Park at 7 p.m. on July 23 and 30 and

July/august • Portland Monthly Magazine • 49

■ LISTINGS ■ August 6 and 13 arc still I BA. Performers in the Wednesday evening “Sunset Folk Series" on the Western Prom will include Darien Brahms at 7:45 p.m. on July 24, Slaid Cleaves at 7:45 p.m. on July 30. Dan Merrill at 7:30 p.m. on August 7. and Jim Gallant at 7:15 p.m. on August 14. 874-8791 or 874-8793.

Unique educational toys, games and books for parents and children. Give them something to grow on.

Open 7 days a week

Making learning fun since 1977!

The Ballpark, 1 Park Way. Old Orchard Beach. James Taylor will serenading the stars at 7:30 p.m. on Saturday, July 20 (tickets $21.50430), followed by Hcxitie and the Blowfish with Nancy Griffith at 7:00 p.m. on Tuesday.

August 13 (tickets $25). Then the Horde Festival on Thursday. August 22 will feature Blues Traveler, Lenny Kravitz, Rusted Root, and others. Call 934-1 124 or Ticketmaster at 775-3331.

184 Middle Street -Old Port • Portland, Maine 04101 207-773-6862 Also visit our South Portland location —Shop N' Save Plaza Philbrook Rd., South Portland, Maine 04106 207-871-1770

Ocean Park Association, Box 7896, Ocean Park, presents their 116th season of Sunday evening concerts at the Temple on Temple Avenue at 7:30 p.m. On July 28 Allan McHale and the Old Time Radio Gang take the stage, followed by Anthony Allen and his Baroque Quartet on August 4 and the Royal River Sweet Adelines Chorus on August 11. On August 18 Stewart Shuster conducts the Annual Choir Concert (admission by freewill offering), then on August 25 flutist Kathy O’Donnell and pianist Hazel O’Donnell perform. The season ends on Septemlx?r 1 with an Old-Fashioned Hymn Sing (freewill offering). ?\dmission to the Sunday evening concerts is $4 for adults and $2 for children, with a $10 maximum per family. Also, on Saturday. August 10 al 8 p.m. there will be a Big Band Dance with Ted Manduca and his Orchestra ($ 10/$5/$25 maximum per family). 934-9068.

Bowdoin Summer Music Festival, Bowdoin College, Brunswick. The theme of this summer's MusicFesl concert series—which takes place at 8 p.m. on Friday evenings in Brunswick High School's Crooker Theatre— is “From Russia with Love"; thus, the July 26 performance will feature Tchaikovsky’s beloved Souvenir de Florence in d for string sextet Op. 70 and Prokofiev's Quintet in g for winds anti strings Op. 39, along with Mozart's Serenade in c K.388/384a. Then the gala season finale on August 2 will include Shostakovich’s stunning piano quintet in g Op. 57. a collection of Rachmaninoff’s faudes-iableaux performed by resident pianist Peter Basquin, and the Aeolian Chamber Players' own arrangement of Stravinsky’s The Soldier’s Tale (tickets for each MusicFest concert cost $15). Meanwhile, the Wednesday night UpBeat! series of informal concerts at 7:30 p.m. continues on July 24 with Stravinsky’s Mass. Sebastian Currier's Whispers, and works of Rossini and Prokofiev in Kresge Auditorium at Bowdoin College; followed by works of Arvo PSrt. Ichiyanagi. Shostakovich, and Anton Arensky on July 31 in the Bowdoin Chapel (tickets $8). The Gamper Festival of Contemporary Music, which is dedicated to presenting the works of living composers, will feature works by Sebastian Currier. David Leisner, Ralph Sha|>ey. Elliott Schwartz. Bright Sheng, and the Festival’s fellowship composers at 7:30 p.m. in Kresge Auditorium on Thursday, July 25; Saturday, July 27; and Sunday. July 28 (tickets $8). The Student Recital Series includes solo and chamber music |X'rformances by BSMF students on Sunday and Tuesday evenings at 7:30 p.m. in Kresge Auditorium through July 29 (free). Box Office: 725-3895.

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Deertrees Theatre, P.O. Box 577, Harrison. The Sebago long Lake Chamber Music Festival continues at 8 p.m. on Tuesday evenings with Haydn (trio for flute, cello, and piano), Rorem (Bright Music for flute, violins, cello, and piano), and Dvorak (quartet for piano and strings) on July 23; Honegger (Concerto da camera for flute.

English horn, and strings). Beethoven (Quintet in Eb for piano and winds Op. 16). and Dohnanyi (Sextet in C (or piano, clarinet, horn, and string trio Op. 37) on July 30; Mozart (Quintet in A for clarinet and strings K.581) and Stravinsky (The Soldier's Tale) on August 6; and Mozart (piano trio). Ravel (Quartet in F for strings), and Schubert (“Trout" Quintet in A for piano and stings D. 667) on August 13 (tickets $15). There will also l>c a special children’s matinee performance of Stravinsky’s The Soldier's Tale with Terpsichore’s Twin Dance Theater at 2 p.m. on Wednesday. August 7 (tickets $5 for adults and $2 for children). On Saturday. July 20 the Blue Willow Band juggles jazz. rock, rhythm and blues, swing, and oldies from the thirties at 8 p.m. ($10 for adults and $8 for seniors). Next up is a Pops ctxicert by the Community Orchestra of the Portland Symphony at 8 p.m. on Monday, July 22 (call 743-0499 for tickets).

Then the New Black Eagle Jazz (kind plays New Orleans music at 8 p.m. on Friday. July 26 ($15), follower! by the zany Zingo Zango Generic Jug Band at 8 p.m. on Friday,

August 2 ($8/$6) and the Camp Encore Coda Annual Jazz Concert at 8 p.m. on Friday, August 9 ($8/$6). Saturday.

August 10 is the gala celebration of Deertrees Theatre's 60th anniversary, featuring a free reception with refreshments on the lawn at 6:30 p.m.; Vintage Repertory Company’s David Blair performing a scene from Cyrano de Bergerac at 7:30 p.m.: the Ralph Farris Chorale presenting “A Night at the 0|x.Ta" with selections from Mozart's Magic Elute, Wagner’s Lohengrin, Verdi's Nabucco. Bizet’s Carmen, Puccini’s La Boheme, Gershwin’s Porgy' and Beas. Rodgers and Hammerstein’s The Sound of Music, and more at 8 p.m.; and a dinner/cast party with a birthday cake and dancing to follow at the Oide Mill Tavern in Harrison (tickets for this fund-raiser arc $20 or $40 with dinner). There will also be a repeat jx’rformance of “A Night at the Opera" at 8 p.m. on Sunday, August 11 ($20). Next the Anni Clark Trio takes the stage to perform acoustic folk and blues at 8 p.m. on Friday. August 16 ($10), followed by Russian concert pianist Nicholai L>mov in a solo recital at 8 p.m. on Thursday. August 22 ($10) and the Downeasters barbershop chorus at 8 p.m. on Friday, August 23 ($10). Then pianist David Freeman will give a benefit concert featuring ballroom dances and tunes from the thirties in memory of past Deertrees president Mary Martikainen at 8 p.m. on Saturday. August 24 with a reception afterwards ($10). followed by soprano Leslie Holmes and pianist Roland Nadeau performing songs of Sondheim at 8 p.m. on Tuesday, August 27 ($10). Lastly, the Ragtime Razcals of New England return to close out the season at 8 p.m. on Sunday. September 1 with “that good old sound" of ragtime and Dixieland sing-along ($10). Call 583-6747.

MUSEUMS Portland Museum of Art, 7 Congress Square. Portland.

“A Brush with Greatness: American Watercolors from the November Collection" traces the evolution of the American watercolor tradition through masterpieces by artists from Winslow Homer to Andrew Wyeth (through September 2). "Picasso, Braque, l^ger. and the Cubist Spirit: 1919-1939" explores the influence of Cubism on French painting, sculpture, furniture design, household objects, fashion, architecture, and cinema between the World Wars with more than 100 works by these three 20th-century masters, as well as pieces by Pierre Chareau. Stuart Davis. Robert and Sonia Delaunay, Jean Dunand, Albert Gleizes, Julio Gonzalea, Eileen Gray. Juan Gris. Henri Laurens, Jacques Lipchitz. Le Corbusier.

Robert Mallet-Stevens, John Storrs. Ainedee Ozenfant. and Jacques Villon (through October 20). Ojx'ning July 20. “The Opera of Man: Works by John Hultberg" includes a wide range ol the artist's figure and perspective-oriented paintings, prints, drawings, collages, and sculptures from the late 1950s to the early 1980s in his characteristic Surrealist-Abstract Expressionist style (through September 21). “Philippe Halsman: A Gallery of Stars" documents the photographer’s ability to capture the “star quality" of American entertainers such as Lucille Ball. Milton Berle.

Dinah Shore. William Holden, and Eddie Cantor (ongoing). For more information, call 773-ARTS or (800) 639-4067.

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MISU ELI AM’ lighthouse Road Rally Interested in racing from lighthouse to lighthouse along the coast of Maine?

Sponsored by New England Region Sports Car Club Rally of America and the Cumberland Motor Club, this September 7 rally begins at 8 a.in. at the Lighthouse Depot Store on Route 1 in Wells. The race to the lighthouses of Cape Elizabeth and Spring Point and then works its way back to Ogunquit, Maine. Proceeds will go to the New England Lighthouse Foundation.

Prizes will be donated by Lighthouse Depot. There’s a one-hour orientation on the night of September 6 for first timers. For registration form and information for this unique opportunity to tour the lighthouses of Maine, call Patti Mikkelsen at (207) 583-4148.

Hydro Open Houses If you’re wondering about the power that generates fun for whitewater rafters and power for the State of Maine, enjoy the CMP hydroelectric station open houses at the Monty Hydro Station, held in conjunction with the l^wiston/Auburn Balloon Festival. August 24. 10 a.m4 p.m.: and the Weston Station in Skowhegan, held as part of the Log Days Festival on August 29. 3 p.m.-6 p.m. For more information, call 1-800-750-4000.

-Compiled by Gwen Thompson

JULY/AUGUST • P0RTIAND MONTHLY MAGAZINE • 51

Stem Season to Season CYR Auction Company

continues to offer a diverse and exciting selection of items from local estates and private collections.

"Spring Jever” “Summer dory”

From a $40,000 Collection of Vintage Baseball Cards sold.

“Autumn Splendor”

Colonial Flag sold for $12,600

“Winter Solitude”

Marble Garden Figures sold for $5,500

Oil painting by A. T. Hibbard sold for $4,650

CYR Auction Company specializes in diversity - selling American, European & Oriental antiques & Accessories. Call us today for our 1996 auction calendar.

CYR Auction Company is open 9-5 weekdays to accept consignments and purchase antiques or call us for a free in home consultation.

James D. Cyr, Maine Lie. #00720 P.O. Box 1238, Gray, Maine 04039 (207) 657-5253 Fax (207) 657-5256 web site: http://www.inaine.com/cyr • e-mail: cyr@inaine.com

CLASSIFIEDS West Bath This beautifully kept 3 bedroom year-round Victorian

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RT 302W, LEFT ONTO LAKE HOUSE ROAD, 2.5 MILE TO FL #57

= GARYS MOVIN 56 Black Point Road • Scarborough, ME 0^

OUR EXPERIENCE SAVES YOU MON Serving Locally, Maine, Boston, N.E. and N.

(207) 883-5997 / (800) 640-604

It’s easy to install, lasts forever, and comes in 3 colors: natural, desert tan and granite gray. Make beautiful terrace gardens, tree rings, sandboxes, retaining walls and planters. Ivi elegant landscaping made simple, choose Windsor Slone’".

CP Genest Concrete

We Welcome Small Moving Jobs

A Tradition of innovation & Quality

Manufacturers of

^^Duracon

Wilson St. Sanford, Maine 04073 (207) 324-3250 In ME 1-800-649-4773

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Harpswell, Main 515' Deep Water Ocean Frontag

185 81 II S3 Ml IB BP Ml Id IB aS MB as bi SB SI MB

BE.BI SaJI

Qjpacious timberframc home presenting an ocean view from most rooms. This 3 bedroom, 2'/i bath, home features a sun-filled solarium leading to a spacious master bedroom with jacuzzi. Notable features include bountiful expanses of glass, oak floors,, curved oak staircase and cherry cabinets. Three decks overlook your persona' boat mooring with occasional views of Mt. Washington.

Secluded 3.4 acres yet only 45 minutes to Portland Jetport.

Carolyn Mills — Realty Executives, Windham, ME 04062(207) 833-6908 (home,

bor more information on our complete line of stone products for the home call

1 800 466-2336 or 207 772-6770 737 Spring Street, Westbrook

Moving Maine People... the Maine Wd

BLUE ROCK HIKE CERUB

Realty Executives Ryerson & Clark 908 Roosevelt Trail, Windham, ME 04062 (207)892-1300

HOUSE

I

f the John Calvin Stevens mansion Channelside (see page 24) is too extravagant for you, take heart. A few blocks from Westbrook High School is a house on a lovely, treelined street that was a brickyard before the turn of the century. Designed by the same architect, it has the same quality of workmanship—and the same gracious feeling-at a price many can afford.

Here, amid the lilacs, honeysuckle, black locust trees, and maples a full three feet wide at the trunk, you can follow the curving brick walkway to the front door of this white-clapboard pocket Colonial Revival mansion with dark trim.

When we say pocket mansion, we’re considering the walnuttrimmed fireplace with matching built-in bookcases and woodwork around the windows of the large, dramatic living room; the french doors that admit you to both living

OF

THE

MONTH “We used to slide down them when we were little," says the seller’s daughter. “We could see light at the bottom.”

All doors and woodwork have never been painted over and are in extraordinary condition in their original varnished finish.

The kitchen was remodeled in 1985, as was the upstairs full bath and downstairs half bath. Throughout the house, the walls and ceilings are in excellent shape; nowhere is there more than one layer of wallpaper. One upstairs bedroom, painted yellow on the raw plaster showcases the great original piasterwork that was the standard before characterless drywall.

Upstairs, in two of the four bedrooms (all have generous closets), there’s a pickled finish on the woodwork dating to 1906. From one bedroom there is access to the top of the conservatory for views of the lush, large yard. I

room and dining room; the Sandwich glass doorknobs on all doors; the heated conservatory of columns and glass; the dark birch floors in original condition; the

John Calvin Stevens Colonial Revival,

1906, Si 12,500

138 Hawkes Street. Westbrook

original brass hardware; built-in china cabinet; an extraordinary built-in double-door linen closet in the upstairs hall; a root cellar in the basement, and- from two floors-an original laundry chute.

Rely on the Proven Real Estate Professionals

Seated: Barney Burrall, Chris Jackson, Pam Whipple Standing: Cindy Landrigan, Diane Shevenell, Rowan Morse, Bud Singer, Joyce Coughlan, Mallory Garrison, Philippa Morton, Susan Lamb

town &

associates

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One Union Wharf, Portland, Maine 04101 (207) 773-0262

SOTHEBTS

.IHLY/AUGUST • PORTLAND MONTHLY MAGAZINE • 55

W

HEN WE WALKED, we walked together. Your stride was longer than mine, loping, reaching out while your feet gently padded the earth. You were always selfconscious of your height, which you ironically attributed to being socialized in a private school that strived for uniformity. In the class pictures that you showed me, you looked awkward and frightened, a tall girl wearing pigtails and standing stiff in the back row, a vague smile curling at the comer of your mouth.

In college, where we first met, you said that you loved your new freedom, the thrill of finally discovering who you were, not who you were supposed to be. You drank peppermint tea with honey and cream, patted every dog you saw, and wore second-hand clotines as brightiy colored and festive as a parade.

“1 wore the same dress to school until I was eighteen," you told me once. “It was powder blue with pleats and looked like something my mother wore in the fifties. It was awful." You still had that dress, I knew, draped in plastic and tucked in the back of your closet.

“Why do you keep it?” 1 had asked.

“What’s the point?"'

“I keep it for the same reason 1 keep all my old pictures," you said. “They’re relics, 'lliey won’t let me forget."

There are some things I can’t forget, either, like the last time we went to the park. It was fall and getting colder, but you were still wearing sandals—with thick purple socks—because you refused to admit a change was coming.

We stood at the edge of the park, your baggy rag-wool sweater smelling like the clove cigarettes you sometimes smoked, both amazed at how quickly the leaves had turned, how we hadn't really noticed them before, until suddenly there they were, shades of pink and peach and brown. We watched their gentle flight to the ground—long, arching maneuvers, tight spirals, all landing with the delicate grace of a bird on the thinnest of branches.

It was early afternoon and we were walking arm in arm towards the duck |xmd. Eor a while we watched a group of kids playing touch football as the sun angled sharply through the oak

56 • Pori i and Monthly Magazine • July/August

FICTION trees. You told me Charlie Brown was your favorite tragic hero, and then, to prove your point, you held your hand out to catch a fluttering gold leaf just as a gust of wind blew it beyond your reach, and you closed your hand to nothing.

We still lived in my aunt’s cottage on

The Tub

Fiction By Kurtis Clements the beach, the one with the picture window that looked out at all that sand and rock and ocean. In summer, we used to collect the colored glass that washed ashore. You liked the feel of the smooth, cool glass in your hands and couldn't imagine it was once jagged and sharp and threatening. On the mantle inside, we filled lighthouseshaped liquor bottles full of the glass, layers of reds, greens, and blues, smelling like salt. You thought it was odd that so many people overlooked the simple beauty of the glass, how it lay in the sand year after year, untouched, perfect. You were like that, though, observant, noticing things no one else saw, and at that time I would have thought you capable of anything.

The first spring we lived in the house we bought an old-fashioned bathtub that didn’t have any legs. The man at the garage sale wanted twenty-five dollars, but you were persistent and bargainer! him down to fifteen. We put it in the front yard and you painted it pink and planted it full of flowers. And for the two years we lived there, the tub stayed in the yard and looked no more out of place than the crazy rose bushes that climbed the latticework

near the porch.

Our walk that fall eventually took us to the pond. When we got there, you were surprised at how obliquely the ducks moved, how their movement was as erratic as carnival ducks. You counted eighteen ducks in all—eleven white and seven brown—and when you told me this the wind whipped your hair across your face and you turned your head away from me. We were twenty four, just out of college, jettisoned into a world we were lead to believe was at our feet. But the world was not at our feet. We were not free to move like the ducks in the pond, anyway we chose. We were at the world’s feet, >. struggling to find our way. “ Afterwards, we started to walk * around the pond, but you stopped ? suddenly halfway, and when you I did, you looked up at me in a way 1 | had never seen before, your eyes edark, faraway. That was when you told me you were leaving. In a voice that only broke once, you said that you felt closed in and needed room to breathe, that we just weren’t the same people any more.

I remember looking at you when you finished, your eyes lowered to the hard ground, and I couldn’t believe you were the same timid girl as the one 1 had seen in the class pictures.

When you finally did leave, you asked if you could take the tub from out front, and even though I thought it was odd that you would want it, I said sure, why not.

What 1 remember about that fall is the walk we took through the park that day, the leaves, the way you looked at me when the wind rushed at your face, and two people realizing they had grown apart because they had grown up.

We had promised to stay in touch, that we would always be friends, but of course those were only words. About a month after you left I was outside trimming back the rose bushes and covering them with burlap sacks for winter. 1 had just finished covering the last bush, and when I stepped back and turned I noticed for the first time a deep impression in the grass of something that once was there. ■

Maine’s rivers^.generating for generations Maine’s rivers have been one of the most environmentally friendly and efficient renewable sources of electricity for nearly 100 years. During this time, we have been mindful of the public rights to these rivers and our responsibility to balance the energy needs and environmental expectations of our customers.

CMP biologists work with State and federal wildlife agencies to study the feeding and nesting habits of the increasingly rare wood turtles that live in Maine waters.

CMP works with archaeologists to discover and protect ancient Native American camp

Many people enjoy the ponds

sites. CMP donates

and lakes above CMP’s dams for

artifacts including

swimming, fishing, canoeing,

chisels, arrowheads

and kayaking.

and clay bowls to the Maine State Museum.

CMP provides nesting rafts for loons to ensure a safe and successful nesting season on reservoirs with fluctuating water levels.

Approximately 14 percent of the electricity CMP customers use is generated by hydro stations on Maine’s rivers. The dams on the rivers also allow for better control of water levels in head ponds-the water body above the dam-and in the rivers.

Fish like Atlantic salmon, American shad and river herring need to return to freshwater rivers and lakes to spawn.

Working with the whitewater

CMP has built fish ladders at some hydro

rafting industry to coordinate water

facilities, allowing fish to pass through its

releases from the dams on the

dams. At the Cataract Fishways Project

Dead and Kennebec Rivers has

we even built a fish elevator, which lifts

helped this industry enjoy booming

fish 40 feet up to the top of the dam.

growth.

CMP conducts various water quality tests to ensure that the chemical components, oxygen, and temperature meet"^ Maine State water quality standards.

Janet Lagasse, CMP Environmental Compliance Assistant

j

Central Maine Power

Southern Maine Obstetrics and Gynecology and

Downeast Obstetrics and Gynecology are pleased to announce the joining of their practices as:

Maine’s Center for Obstetrics & Gynecology Generations was created to reach beyond traditional obstetric and gynecological services. For patients, this means education and resources to help make the best health care decisions —from preventive issues to treatment options — in a professional and supportive environment.

The Generations Medical Staff:

Carol G. Altman, M.D. James F. Flaherty, D.O. Emil C. Gotsehlieli, M.D. Anne Marie van Hcngel, M.D. Robert II. McRea, D.O. Paul Savidge, M.D. Janies W. Wilberg, M.D.

For more information or to set up an appointment, call one of our tivo locations: