No. 42 | January – April 2020
Attack of the Giants
Triennial of Tapestry
in the know independent indispensable ONLIN
P R I NT
Łódź: The Post-Industrial Revolution Continues!
Europe's biggest publisher of locally produced city guides
Feature Łódź: The Post-Industrial Revolution Continues!
Activities & Experiences
Łódź’s Best Cafes
Arrival & Transport
Polish Facts & Language
Sightseeing Essential Łódź 21 Piotrkowska North 22 OFF Piotrkowska 24 Piotrkowska South 26 Industrial Łódź 38 EC1 30 Hollyłódź32 Jewish Łódź 34 Street Art 38 Museums40
Traditional Polish Dishes
Nightlife Polish Alcohol
Maps City Map City Centre Map
6-7 8-9 3
Foreword Aloha and Happy 2020, and a happy new decade! Welcome to the exciting world of Łodź (pr. Woodge)! This central city is not the first place people choose to visit in Poland. In fact, most don’t know much about it. But the word is out, Łódź is definitely worth visiting. Those who find themselves in the city are in for a treat as they reap the benefits of seeing a city on the rise, yet still not fully on the travellers’ radar. From culture and fashion, design and architecture, to technology and education – Łodź is on the cutting edge. While Winter in Łodź can be both brutal and beautiful, it is the perfect time of year to explore the city on foot (post-industrial heritage on p.10 or general wanderings up and down the main street, pp.22-27), or check out the city’s many indoor attractions, gastronomical offerings and social scene, all found in this guide. One of the best ways to get a feel for what’s going on, apart from reading Łodź IYP, is to attend some of the many events and exhibitions taking place over the next few months. Check out our Events section (p.12) for full details of cultural events and festivals. As always, let us know how you got on in Łódź on our Facebook page (/Lodzinyourpocket) and/or show us what you’ve seen during your time in the city by using the hashtag #Lodzinyourpocket on social media, or if you prefer, just use good old fashioned email: email@example.com. Andrew Elliott, who has close ties to Poland, has been living here since 2016 when he finally decided to make the big leap from Scotland to get a more in-depth grasp of this fascinating country. Personal interests include astronomy, current affairs, food & drink, photography & videography! He even has a slight penchant for history.
COVER STORY Winter can be bleak in Poland, but illuminations can brighten things up! Our cover shows a great aerial shot of Plac Wolnośći (p.22), the gateway to ul. Piotrkowska (pp.22-27), Europe’s longest pedestrian street, looking very much like an airplane landing strip! Photo: Adobe Stock.
PUBLISHER & STAFF Publisher IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Karmelicka 46/51, 31-128 Kraków iyp.com.pl firstname.lastname@example.org Circulation 10,000 copies published 3 times per year Writer & Editor: Andrew Elliott Sales Consultant: Bartosz Matyjas (+48) 784 966 824 Events: Monika Boguszewska-Stopka (+48) 728 879 494, Katarzyna Mrozewska-Fenz, Patrycja Ples Research: Monika Jakubek, Zuzanna Onuszko, Aleksandra Sosnowska, Dominika Sosnowska Layout & Maps: Tomáš Haman Social Media & Marketing: Juan Sarabia Copyright Notice Content and photos copyright IYP City Guides Sp. Z o. o Sp. k. unless otherwise stated. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. The brand name In Your Pocket and maps are used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, LT, tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
Dzięki lokalizacji w sercu miasta szybko dotrzesz na spotkania biznesowe i do najważniejszych miejsc Łodzi. W naszych 104 komfortowych pokojach zrelaksujesz się po dniu pełnym wrażeń. Regionalne specjały naszych szefów kuchni rozpieszczą Twoje podniebienie. Chcesz zorganizować konferencję? Dysponujemy 4 salami konferencyjnymi z pełnym wyposażeniem.
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Łódź: The Post-Industrial Revolution Continues!
Łódź’s new Centre. | Photo by Sacre Bleu on Unsplash
If you’ve come to Łódź having heard about the successes of post-industrial tourism (p.28), you’ve come at a great time. Hell, even if you’ve only just learned about the existence of the city (we’ve met so many in the same shoes!), you’ll be more than pleasantly surprised about this little gem of a city in central Poland. When we first started covering Łódź, the many complexes, cultural sites and revamped factories you can stroll around today were but mere concepts in the minds of developers and urban planners. There’s definitely a lot to see today, all covered in this very guide, but there’s another aspect to the city’s changing fortunes, one we’d like to call the continuing post-industrial revolution. The huge investment that kick-started Łódź’s changing fortunes was Manufaktura (p.42), the 2nd biggest of the former textile factories, which opened in 2006 with a host of attractions located on site. It was a key to
may surprise you: 200 – and these are just the ones that are still standing, whether derelecit, revamped, or in the process of modernisation. Hot on the heels of Manufaktura’s success were a mixture of organic projects and commercial investments, from the ever popular OFF Piotrkowska (p.24) to Piotrkowska 217 (p.26), part of the former Księży Młyn textile factory (p.29) and the transformation of an old power station into a cultural hub in the form of EC1 (p.30). The increased investment hasn’t just focused on old factories, but all around the city, from the impressive sprucing up of the main thoroughfare, ul. Piotrkowska (which is now an impressive artery in the centre, pp.22-27), facades of buildings all around the centre, the old villas and palaces of the industrialists, resurfacing of roads, upgrading parks and facilities, to one of the main ports of arrival, the huge Łódź Fabryczna Train Station (p.16) revamp, which is bigger than some small airports in Europe! It all sounds fairly
Manufaktura kick-started the post-industrial revolution in Łódź! Photo: UMŁ
standard, but the Łódź of 15+ years ago had a less than savoury reputation for being a rundown city! Almost unrecoginsable with the city of today.
WHAT TO SEE?
Even the streets and palaces are being revitalised!
sucess, the multifunctional element, mixing historic and modern architecture, a homage to the past, while looking confidently to the future and staving off boredom! Time for a cool statistic. Manufaktura was the 1st such site to undergo a huge facelift. Now consider how many more old factory sites remain in Łódź? The answer 10
All of the aforementioned has come about only within the last 10 years, so you just missed out on the grand openings. Fortunately for you, there are further investements coming to Łódź, one of which is opening up in the spring of 2020 – Monopolis. Located on the corner of Al. Piłsudskiego and ul. Kopcińskiego (O-P/12-13), the site of the former ‘Monopol Wódczany’ vodka distillery opened in 1902 was the 3rd largest industrial site in Łódź, behind Karol Scheibler’s Księży Młyn and Israel Poznański’s Manufaktura. And there you go, a vodka distillary, in the heart of a textile city (it is the land of vodka, afterall)! The new site covers 29,900m2 and will contain a whole host of attractions for visitors, the centrepiece being the Museum of Vodka Production (of course!), but also a theatre, cafes and restaurants, a play area for children, a gym and pool, and finally, office space in two new modern buildings, M1 & M2. The main draw, other than the museum, will
Łódź: The Post-Industrial Revolution Continues! be the cultural events taking place here, from concerts to exhibitions, and photo and film sessions. An impressive mix of modernity in the next phase in the lifespan of an old industrial site. The scale is impressive. Nearby, to the south, on the premises of the former Księży Młyn complex, the former Scheibler power station on ul. Tymienieckiego 5/7 (not for the city, but for the complex itself – that’s how big it was, once covering 1/3 of the city that it needed to produce its own power!), known as Elektrownia Scheiblera is currently in the very early phase of a large revamp. Built in 1910, the building itself has been a favourite of locals for being designed by Latvian Alfred Frisch in the Art-Noveau style, making it stand out from other bog standard buildings. The new project will see the area named Fuzja (Fusion), the 1st phase of which is aimed to be completed by late 2021, and will contain apartments, but also the usual puzzle pieces which make up such a large investment: offices, places to eat and chill out areas and shops, which will cover 7.7h. Not far away, again, in the southern part of ul. Piotrkowska at 293/305, the former cotton mill factory site of Ludwik Geyer, a project is underway to create Ogrody Geyera (Geyer’s Gardens), which will be focused on having large open green spaces for visitors to enjoy. Again, you can expect offices, apartments, a hotel and cultural spots, all covering 10.5h! The most important venue for you may be the proposed Museum of Paper and Printing! The area is still a work ongoing, however, there have already been open days with entertainment for the kids and summer cinems screenings to enjoy, therefore, you may be lucky to attend such events (check their Facebook page for details) in the near future without fear of trespassing on a building site! Back in the city centre, between Łódź Fabryczna Station and EC1, there will be more investments being built to contribute to city hall’s project of creating Nowe Centrum Łodzi (The New Centre of Łódż). If you’re travelled around Poland, you may have noticed that the majority of towns and cities have an old town square – not Łódź. Yes, there is Stary Rynek (J-7, named ‘old town square’ but it’s anything but, having only been created in
The interior of Scheibler’s old power station.
Photo: Elektrownia Scheiblera - soon to become ‘Fuzja’ (Fusion)
the Communist years), way up north of ul. Piotrkowska, but it’s away from the centre, therefore, the city authorities decided it’s best to make a new one smack bang in the middle of the city. Why not, huh? The new square will be called Rynek Kobro and cover an area of 5000m2. Not bad, not bad, and perfect for public events. The square will be completed in 2022. We’ve gone to great lengths to ensure our readers have the best and up to date information on what to see and do in the city, but also on the major upcoming plans. Even if you perhaps aren’t a big fan of architecture or the finer details of the industrial revolution, it’s almost inevitable you’ll end up in a site which once was a hive of production activity, producing anything from textiles to electricity!
Monopolis - opening Spring 2020!
Photo: Jacek Łukasiewicz.
We hope you enjoy your time in the city, and remember, if you’ve visited recently, just think how much the urban landscape will have changed in just 2 years, 5 years, 10 years... oh, damn! A city is being reborn, and we’re in the midst of the transition. A perfect reason to visit again and again. 11
16TH INTERNATIONAL TRIENNIAL OF TAPESTRY | photo: Central Museum of Textiles in Łódź
EVENTS BY DATE 19.03 - 22.03, 26.03 - 29.03 » MISS SAIGON
“Miss Saigon” is called the modern version of “Madame Butterfly”, but Michel Schönberg and Alain Boublil claim that they were not inspired by Puccini’s opera, but by a photo that Claude-Michel Schönberg accidentally saw in a newspaper. It depicted a Vietnamese woman who, with a painful expression on her face, gives her daughter to a soldier leaving the military base near Saigon. In America, the child would have a better life than that given to the “bui doi”, children of Vietnamese and Americans, persecuted in communist Vietnam. Thanks to this photo a poignant, one of the most beautiful musicals of all time was created. After over 8000 performances on Broadway, in May 2014, the new version was premiered in the West End and this particular version is going to be performed at the Musical Theatre in Łódź. QM‑8, Musical Theatre, ul. Północna 47/51, tel. (+48) 42 678 19 68, Tickets 30-150zł, www.teatr-muzyczny.lodz.pl.
06.02 18:00 » SLIPKNOT: “WE ARE NOT YOUR KIND” WORLD TOUR
Slipknot’s mix of grinding, post-Korn alternative metal, Marilyn Manson-esque neo-shock rock, and rapmetal helped make them one of the most popular bands in the nu-metal explosion of the late 1990s and early 2000s. The band loves to grab attention with their theatrical image - they always perform in identical industrial jump suits and homemade Halloween masks. Preoccupied with darkness 12
and nihilism, they are the perfect nu-metal group. The band’s critically acclaimed sixth studio album, the “We Are Not Your Kind”, arrived in August 2019 and debuted at number one on both the U.S. Billboard 200 and the U.K. Albums Chart. In Łódź, they are going to perform together with Behemoth.QE‑14, Atlas Arena, Al. Bandurskiego 7, Tickets 170-370zł, www.makis.pl.
01.02 12:00-20:00, 02.02 12:00-18:00 » VEGE FESTIVAL
Restaurants, producers, manufacturers, and lovers of vegan and vegetarian options come together for a weekend gathering. You will have the opportunity to eat from restaurants in Łódź and Poland, purchase unique and rare food products not sold on the market, and buy clothes and products that fall into the vegan ethos. QK‑15, Piotrkowska 217, Admission free.
07.02 19:00-21:00 » RAY WILSON: UPON MY LIFE 2020 TOUR
Ray Wilson is a Scottish singer and guitarist, best known as vocalist in the post-grunge band Stiltskin, and Genesis. Famous for his very personal style and minimalist musical production that creates a particularly intimate atmosphere. During the upcoming concert, Ray will present both solo work and the greatest Genesis hits, as well as songs from his latest album Upon My Life, summarising 20 years of his solo career. QH‑14, Wytwórnia Club, ul. Łąkowa 29, tel. (+48) 42 639 55 55, Tickets 75-160zł, www.wytwornia.pl.
Events 07.02 11:00, 08.02 18:30, 09.02 17:00 » JESUS CHRIST SUPERSTAR
Loosely based on the Gospels of Matthew, Mark, Luke and John, Superstar follows the last week of Jesus Christ’s life. The story, told entirely through song, explores the personal relationships and struggles between Jesus, Judas, Mary Magdalene, his disciples, his followers and the Roman Empire.The iconic 1970s rock score contains such well-known numbers as “Superstar,” “I Don’t Know How to Love Him” and “Gethsemane.” A true global phenomenon, Jesus Christ Superstar continues to touch new generations of audiences and performers. Łódź Musical Theatre production is done for the first time entirely in English with Polish supertitles.QM‑8, Musical Theatre, ul. Północna 47/51, tel. (+48) 42 678 19 68, Tickets 4375zł, www.teatr-muzyczny.lodz.pl.
09.02 19:00 » JULIA PIETRUCHA - FOLK IT! TOUR
Julia Pietrucha is not only a talented Polish actress and model, she is also quite successful singer. Her first album “Parsley”, inspired by her Asia travels brought her a countrywide recognition. It was followed by “Postcards from the Seaside” inspired by the Baltic. The upcoming concert is part of her tour “FOLK it!TOUR” during which she continues to promote her music.QH‑14, Wytwórnia Club, ul. Łąkowa 29, tel. (+48) 42 639 55 55, Tickets 90zł, www. wytwornia.pl.
11.02 17:00-20:00 » ORLEN CUP ŁÓDŹ 2020
The Orlen Cup in Łódź is one of the most prestigious events of the winter season in European athletics. The Atlas Arena will once again become home to countless Polish and international athletes. Watch the best of the best testing their physical limits while running, jumping, and throwing. Immerse yourself in the excitement of the world’s most beautiful sport. QE‑14, Atlas Arena, Al. Bandurskiego 7, Tickets 20/15zł, www.makis.pl.
14.02 20:00 » MARIA PESZEK - SORRY POLAND SUPER TOUR
Maria Peszek started her musical career in 2005, creating a music show and the album Miasto mania. Three years later she recorded the album Maria Awaria. Both albums, enthusiastically received by critics and the audience, made the artist one of the most popular alternative Polish performers. In October 2012 she released her third studio album, Jesus Maria Peszek. Peszek’s concerts never disappoint - her performance is outstanding, she captivates her audience with incredible energy, passion and unparalleled artistic skill. She is a high energy performer, who infects you with
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her joy of singing. QH‑14, Wytwórnia Club, ul. Łąkowa 29, tel. (+48) 42 639 55 55, Tickets 70-80zł, www. wytwornia.pl.
21.02-24.05 » LES MISÉRABLES
“Les Misérables”, a world-famous musical by ClaudeMichel Schönberg and Alain Boublil, is an adaptation of a original epic novel by Victor Hugo. Set against the backdrop of 19th-century France, “Les Misérables” tells an enthralling story of broken dreams and unrequited love, passion, sacrifice and redemption, a timeless testament to the survival of the human spirit. “Les Misérables” is a musical of all time, almost all the songs have become hits. Don’t miss your chance to see this spectacular original production by the actors of Łódź Musical Theatres.QM‑8, Musical Theatre, ul. Północna 47/51, tel. (+48) 42 678 19 68, Tickets 30150zł, www.teatr-muzyczny.lodz.pl.
22.02 13:30, 17:00 » ANGRY BIRDS ON ICE
“Angry Birds on Ice” is an awesome show where both young and adult audience will have an opportunity to meet their favourite characters live! The performance, which combines skating, parkour, acrobatics and other styles, will satisfy the most demanding fans of the game. The audience will meet the eternally angry Red, the fast-paced Chuck, and the fan of accidental explosions, the Bomb. Do not miss this spectacular ice show!QE‑14, Atlas Arena, Al. Bandurskiego 7, Tickets 39-109zł, www.makis.pl. 13
Events 23.02 16:00-18:00 » RUSSIAN NATIONAL BALLET OF SIBERIA KRASNOJARSK
The unprecedented Siberian aura became a source of inspiration for the Russian National Ballet Of Siberia Krasnojarsk, which, by means of choreography, describes the Siberian culture, literature and art. Amazing costume designs add colour to the performed dances and enhance the overall mastery of the production. The upcoming concert will guarantee a great spiritual experience inspired by a distant Siberian culture. QM‑10, The Grand Theatre, Pl. Dąbrowskiego, tel. (+48) 42 633 31 86, Tickets 100150zł, www.operalodz.com.
06.03 15:00-00:00, 07.03 13:00-00:00 » BREWERS 2020 - ŁÓDŹ BEER FAIR
It is the 7th Beer and Brewing Fair in Łódź. It is an ideal meeting place for everyone who wants to broaden their knowledge of craft beers, test new flavours, as well as for those who are interested in home brewing. During the fair there will be plenty of opportunities to taste every new beer while listening to good music! In addition to beer, there will also be meads and ciders, and delicious food for everyone who is hungry. The accompanying events will include beer related courses and presentations. QI‑16, Expo-Łódź, Al. Politechniki 4, tel. (+48) 42 636 29 83, Admission free, www.piwowary.com.pl.
10.03 19:00 » PASION DE BUENA VISTA
Cuban artists Pasión de Buena Vista are returning with their signature brand of peppy Caribbean music that brings a blast of island warmth to Łódź. The atmosphere is like a breezy Havana club complete with saucy dancers and Latin rhythms—it’s almost more like a vacation to Cuba than just a concert.QM‑10, The Grand Theatre, Pl. Dąbrowskiego, tel. (+48) 42 633 31 86, Tickets 139-199zł, www. operalodz.com. QE‑14, Atlas Arena, Al. Bandurskiego 7, Tickets 99-199zł, www.super-enduro.com.pl.
14.03 - 15.03 » CHOCOLATE FESTIVAL
Chris Whitten, keyboard player Simon Carter, Tim Walters and James Powell. Whether you are a fan of Dire Straits or simply want to listen to some great music performed by the world’s best musicians, this is the concert for you! QH‑14, Wytwórnia Club, ul. Łąkowa 29, tel. (+48) 42 639 55 55, Tickets 229-254zł, www.wytwornia.pl.
22.03 19:00 » MUSIC ICONS – ROCK’S POETS
Rock Poets Tour presents the music of rock giants of the second half of the 20th century. Interpretations of timeless songs by such artists as David Bowie, Neil Young, Bob Dylan, John Lennon Jim Morrison, Lou Reed and Patti Smith will be performed by renowned artists: Krystyna Prońko, Paulina Przybysz, Piotr Rogucki, Sławek Uniatowski and Łukasz Lach. John Porter, an English-born musician, composer and songwriter, living and working in Poland, will be a special guest of the tour. This unique tour of musical classics that are continually a source of inspiration for many artists is an opportunity to meet a number of great Polish performers. The tour will take an audience to the turbulent 60s and 70s and bring back the backstage atmosphere of those years. QH‑14, Wytwórnia Club, ul. Łąkowa 29, tel. (+48) 42 639 55 55, Tickets 199-219zł, www.wytwornia.pl.
03.04 19:30 » METALLICA SYMPHONIC
SCREAM INC., one of the best Metallica cover bands in the world, will perform under the banner of “Music of Metallica Symphonically”. They will be accompanied by the “Orion” symphonic orchestra. The concert’s programme will include Metallica’s greatest hits in symphonic arrangements performed as on the famous album “Metallica S&M”. It will be nearly two hours of nonstop rock and metal classics performed live! QH‑14, Wytwórnia Club, ul. Łąkowa 29, tel. (+48) 42 639 55 55, Tickets 120-150zł, www.wytwornia.pl.
04.04 10:00-18:00, 05.04 10:00-17:00 » ATTACK OF THE GIANTS - FESTIVAL OF INSECTIVOROUS PLANTS
Who does not love chocolate? Come witness the most savouring and diverse variety of chocolates and desserts with fellow chocoholics. Savour doughnuts, ice cream, and pastries - anything you can imagine made out of chocolate! Dozens of stands with sweets, baked goods, accessories, and food from all over Poland will show up in Łódź. Plus, Sweet Exhibition - chocolate figurines, and various decorations. Anyone with a sweet tooth shouldn’t miss the chance to take part in this absolutely scrumptious festival of chocolate!QM‑11, EC1, ul. Targowa 1/3, tel. (+48) 539 99 76 93, Admission 15/10zł. Children under 10 - free.
The biggest live exhibition of thousands of fragrant, colourful, and hungry flowers! Watch them feast on flies, bugs and other insects. Lectures, presentations, workshops and plenty of educational activities for kids; in other words, an absolutely unforgettable event for everyone - adults and kids alike.QI‑16, Expo-Łódź, Al. Politechniki 4, tel. (+48) 42 636 29 83, Tickets 25/19zł, www.festiwalroslin.pl.
15.03 20:00 » THE DIRE STRAITS EXPERIENCE AT WYTWÓRNIA CLUB
The 16th International Triennial of Tapestry, the oldest and most important presentation of phenomena related to the medium of textiles, is a great opportunity to look at tapestries in a wider context. The previous system involved showcasing recommended artists from different countries. This time the organisers decided to establish direct contact with artists expressing a desire to take part in the exhibition. For the first time, the exhibition focuses on the main theme, which this year is “Crossing borders”. Following
The legendary band Dire Straits, headed by Mark Knopfler, sold over 120 million albums during their peak of popularity in the 1970s. Currently, Dire Straits with the Experience headline returns after years on a world tour with several members of the initial line-up, presenting an unforgettable show. The band includes such great musicians as saxophonist Chris White, guitarist Terence Reis, drummer 14
EXHIBITIONS 05.10 - 15.03 » 16TH INTERNATIONAL TRIENNIAL OF TAPESTRY
Events a peculiar fabric crisis, the art of tapestry creation is reborn, more than ever integrated with other arts, thus blurring the boundaries that divide it. The exhibition “Dialogues - beyond borders” accompanies the 16th International Triennial, and presents such artists as Caroline Achaintre, Anne Wilson, C.T. Jasper, Joanna Malinowska, Piotr Uklański, as well as historical tapestries designed by Georges Braque and Le Corbusier. QK‑17, Central Museum of Textiles in Łódź, ul. Piotrkowska 282, tel. (+48) 42 683 26 84, Admission 6/4zł, www.cmwl.pl. Open 09:00-17:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00-19:00. Closed Mon.
10.01 - 23.02 » DE TERRA BARBARA KACZOROWSKA / SUB ROSA BEATA MARCINKOWSKA
The exhibition “De Terra. Sub Rosa” is a meeting of two artists who, from different perspectives, want to describe the place occupied by a woman in the current reality. In spite of working in different techniques, the artists create a story about the space in which a woman lives, about her body, personality and emotions. Barbara Kaczorowska adopts the earth as her leading creative material, whereas Beata Marcinkowska creates installations constructed out of the corset elements. The exhibition is a story of acceptance, and at the same time, unadulterated, universal femininity.QJ‑7, Bałucka City Gallery, Stary Rynek 2, tel. (+48) 42 657 58 52, Admission 4/2zł. Thu free, www.mgslodz.pl. Open 12:00-17:00; Sat, Sun 12:00-16:00. Closed Mon.
20.12 - 01.02 » THE LIVING DEAD
The title of the exhibition “The Living Dead” refers to public space monuments, which as a result of the process of change, manipulation and displacement of unwanted events, have been condemned to erasure. It is worth noting that the etymology of the word monument derives from the word to forget, or remember. In this sense, “living corpses” are images of fallen ideas, doomed to extinction; however, they cannot be easily removed. The exhibition of “The Living Dead” is the first opportunity for an audience to get acquainted with the works of Radek Szlęzak. The exhibition will include his latest works as well as several ones from the previous years.QK‑12, Re:Medium Gallery, ul. Piotrkowska 113, tel. (+48) 42 632 24 16, Admission 1zł. Thu free, www.mgslodz.pl. Open 11:00-18:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. Closed Sun.
08.11 - 29.02 » R.H. QUAYTMAN. THE SUN DOES NOT MOVE. CHAPTER 35
R.H. Quaytman is a contemporary American artist, whose works are deeply rooted in the history of art, and in art theory. They make reference to philosophical reflection on the nature of painting, representation, construction of visual signs, and the phenomenon of seeing. The artist comes back to the home city of her forebears with an oeuvre that has been structured into “chapters”. Each of them is a separate exhibition, each is site-specific, meaning it refers to the architectural, but also the historical context of a place. In her art, she explores such issues as memory and the nature of
02.04 - 04.04 » FILM VIDEO PHOTO FAIR
The 23rd Film, Audio-Video and Multimedia Equipment and Technologies Film Video Photo Fair will be held 2-4 April, 2020 in the Atlas Arena hall. Once again, lovers of photography and film will have the opportunity to get acquainted with the latest products of worldrenowned and Polish brands, novelties and innovative solutions for professionals and photo and video maniacs, as well as the opportunity to meet industry experts and test the latest equipment. The trade fair will also include workshops, seminars, presentations and meetings with professionals. QE‑14, Atlas Arena, Al. Bandurskiego 7, www.filmvideofoto.pl. history. The exhibition will be accompanied by a publication designed by the artist herself. QI‑10, Museum of Art in Łódź - ms¹, ul. Więckowskiego 36, tel. (+48) 42 633 97 90, Tickets 10/5zł, www.msl.org.pl. Open 11:00-19:00; Tue 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon.
13.03 - 24.05 » TERESA TYSZKIEWICZ
Teresa Tyszkiewicz, an author of short films, photographer, performance artist, and painter. Well known for her pinpaintings, her works explore feminine sexuality. Her personal style involves images full of motion and metaphors, with the artist’s body often appearing in the nude. Her temporary monographic exhibition will be an attempt to show the oeuvre of over forty years. Over 100 works created between 1979 and 2019 will be presented, some of which have never been exhibited. The author’s experimental films, which are records of her intimate performances, photographs, “photographic objects”, “pinned images” made using her own technique, plus the artist’s large-format reliefs will create a diverse, yet aesthetically coherent artistic vision. QI‑8, Museum of Art in Łódź- ms², ul. Ogrodowa 19, tel. (+48) 42 634 39 48, www.msl.org.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Tue 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Where’s the party? /LodzInYourPocket 15
Arrival & Transport
You’ll most likely arrive in the city at Łódź Fabryczna Train Station, seen here from above | © Aleksandra Piechorowska
With Łódź being Poland’s third largest city, links to the outside have finally improved. Budget flights opened the city right up and local bus, tram and train upgrades make it easier than before to get around.
BY TRAIN With the city lying in the centre of the country, Łódź is a crossroads for many of the rail networks covering the country. To handle the traffic Łódź has three stations - Kaliska (generally for east/west routes) and Widzew (north/south routes). The third major station is the new Łódź Fabryczna, which is the biggest and most central of the three. It is also currently a dead end with all trains terminating here, although that will change once the connecting tunnel to Łódź Kaliska is finished in 2022. With the opening of Fabryczna the main Łódź - Warsaw line has also undergone a major overhaul and high speed connections will now whisk you to the capital in under
90-minutes. You can take trains directly from Łódź to most major Polish cities but the speed on many can be slow and minor delays are standard. At present a 250km journey to Kraków will take anywhere from two and a half to four hours. Gdańsk, 370km away, will take around 5 and a half hours. It is worth checking the useful website www. rozklad-pkp.pl for the best connection. ŁÓDŹ FABRYCZNA TRAIN STATION On December 12, 2016 the first train rolled into the newly designed Łódź Fabryczna after a 5 year hiatus. This was a monumental and indeed historic moment for the city and the region as the new station not only offers new connections and modern conveniences, but it is the very heart of the city’s plan to rejuvenate the entire city centre. Łódź Fabryczna is one of the most modern railway stations in Poland. The pristine and polished granite floors of the wast wing meet a giant polished black ‘obelisk’ which houses several ticket offices where you can buy tickets for PKP Intercity, Regional Transport and Łódź Agglomeration Railway trains (ŁKA). The east wing of the station is different in character from the west wing and is flanked by facades of large white townhouses which are a nod to the old Fabryczna station and instead of a single glass canopy they are covered by glass buttresses. In the townhouses there are ticket offices a commuter rail (ŁKA) Passenger Centre and in the north-east part there are lockers as well as ATMs an infopoint (InfoDworzec) for all transportation and tourist queries, and the regional Bus Station.QL‑11, Pl. Sałacińskiego 1, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www.pkp.pl.
Arrival & Transport ŁÓDŹ WIDZEW TRAIN STATION Łódź Widzew enjoyed more traffic while Łódź Fabryczna was being upgraded. Now that Fabryczna has reopened it still sees continued traffic as a commuter hub for all points East and North. Widzew was recently modernised and now has an automated ticket machine, waiting room with paid toilets, press kiosk, café, gastro point and snack bar plus unreliable Wi-Fi. If you want to save on cab money and take a tram to the city centre, walk the 200 metres to the Puszkina - Rondo Inwalidów tram stop (from ul. Służbowa walk to ul. Adamieckiego and turn right onto ul. Rokicińska and you’re there) - take trams 8 to get to Piotrkowska Centrum in 20 mins. If you don’t want to walk far, just outside the station, catch buses 75A, 75B or 75C from Dworzec Łódź Widzew bus stop and get off at the Piłsudskiego - Konstytucyjna bus stop, then catch trams 8 or 10B to Piotrkowska Centrum. The journey takes around 30 mins.Qul. Służbowa 8, tel. (+48) 22 391 97 57 (from foreign mobile phones), www.pkp.pl. Open 24hrs. Note that, due to system maintenance, seat reservations cannot be made from 24:00 to 01:00.
BY BUS Most Bus travellers to Łódź are dropped off at the Łódź Fabryczna Bus station although some may still be routed to Łódź Kaliska Station which is a 15-20 minute trip from the centre. ŁÓDŹ KALISKA BUS STATION Express and international buses depart from Łódź-Kaliska (there is parking in front of the post office), where domestic and international tickets can be purchased from the booking office which is open Mon-Fri 10:00-17:15, SatSun 08:30-16:00. There is no luggage storage, but you will find toilets and kiosks for transport tickets. In addition to Kaliska there is another bus station, Dworzec Północny PKS, located at ul. Smugowa 30/32 where you can catch more local buses. Note that all buses to Warsaw leave from Kaliska. Bus schedules should be checked via the fantastic e-podroznik.pl transport service. To get to the city centre, you can take a taxi or tram 10 to get to the neighbourhood of Piotrkowska. Make sure to check the latest tram and bus prices on www.mpk. lodz.pl before your trip and plan your journey times using the JakDojade schedule/route planner app.QF‑14, Al. Włókniarzy 227, tel. (+48) 42 631 97 06, www.pks.lodz.pl.
BY PLANE As Poland’s third largest city Łódź gets its fair share of air passengers, and with a brand new terminal the experience of flying in to and out of the city has gotten increasingly more pleasant (well, as pleasant as flying can be, anyway). ŁÓDŹ WŁADYSŁAW REYMONT AIRPORT Łódź Władysław Reymont Airport (Port Lotniczy Łódź im. Władysława Reymonta) opened a new terminal in June 2012 that significantly enlarged the airport’s capacity and which now handles all arrivals and departures. Inside you’ll find passenger rest areas, Hertz, Europcar, Sixt, Avis and Panek, ATMs to withdraw Polish currency and several places to grab food and drink or a cup of coffee. You can also do some shopping in the well stocked shops. The Airport is located around 6-10km from Łódź city centre. By car it’s around 20 minutes and by public transport is about 20-40 minutes. Taxis hover outside the arrivals terminal and a journey to the centre is around 2040zł. Three taxi companies, Taxi 400 400 (+48 42 640 04 00), Taxi Plus (+48 800 50 05 00) and Green Cab (+48 42 666 44 44) are permitted to pick up from the airport and can be trusted. The bus stop is directly outside the main entrance with bus no.s 65A and 65B (running every 20-30 minutes) taking you to Łódź Kaliska Train Station, from where you can then take tram 10B straight to the main street ul. Piotrkowska (tram stop ‘Piotrkowska Centrum’). A single 40 minute ticket (valid for 60 minutes until end of 2020 due to network redevelopement) costs 3.80zł (reduced 1.90zł).Qul. Gen. Stanisława Maczka 35, tel. (+48) 42 683 52 55, www.lotnisko.lodz.pl.
BY CAR In the last decade, the road quality issues in Poland have been improving thanks to EU directives and funding, however, the work is definitely ongoing. Generally, you will most likely stick to high-speed and good quality motorways or expressways, but do remember, once you leave these roads onto old single lane roads, you will be driving amongst anything from a sports car to a tractor. Indeed, despite the overall road improvements, Poland is still one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities. 17
Arrival & Transport Poland has strong drink-driving laws: 0.2‰ is the maximum blood/alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single beer. EU citizens may use their home driving licenses as long as they are valid, however citizens of countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will find their licenses invalid. Carry your license and passport at all times when driving. The speed limit is 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 120km/ hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr on motorways. All cars are required to carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit, replacement bulbs and a national identity sticker. A new law was introduced in April 2007 making it compulsory to have headlights switched on at all times. ARRIVING BY CAR Connecting Łódź with the outside world are the E75 running north, the E30 going north east, the west bound A2, the south running E75, and road number 72 heading to the east. Once in Łódź, if you’re parking on the street you’ll be paying one of two rates from 8:00 18:00 (Mon - Fri): Zone A: 1,50zł (first 30mins), 3zł (first hr), 3,50zł (second hr) 4zł (third hr) 3zł (fourth and every additional hr). Zone B: 1zł (first 30 mins), 2.50zł (first hr), 3zł (second h), 3,50zł (third h) 2,50zł (fourth and each additional hr). GUARDED PARKING QJ‑7, ul. Łagiewnicka 1/3, tel. (+48) 42 657 67 84. GUARDED PARKING QM‑9, ul. Sterlinga 21, tel. (+48) 791 55 33 32.
CAR RENTAL AVIS Avis, the global leader in car rentals, offer short and long rental cars, vans and chauffeur driven vehicles, including everything from small city cars to shared vans. Over 2,000 models are available with all equipped with air conditioning, airbags and ABS to ensure both comfort and safety. Flexible terms of cooperation from experts in professionalism, convenience and safety. City centre location. Also available at the airport upon request (with the same opening hours).QH‑14, ul. Łąkowa 29 (DoubleTree by Hilton Łódź), tel. (+48) 607 03 63 08, www.avis.pl. Open 08:00-18:00; Sat 09:00-17:00; closed Sun. EUROPCAR Europcar is one of the biggest car rental companies and offers eight different categories of vehicles to choose from. The airport location makes it easy to nab a car and dash. Qul. Gen. Stanisława Maczka 35 (Airport), tel. (+48) 42 253 14 04, www.europcar.com.pl. Open 09:0018:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-17:00. Additionally open by prior arrangement. 18
PUBLIC TRANSPORT Łódź can boast a well-developed network of bus and tram routes that traverse the city. The comprehensive website at www.mpk.lodz.pl features full English content, including timetables, general information and ticket prices. Tickets (bilety) can be purchased from automated machines at stops and some onboard machines, which must be validated upon boarding the tram or bus by validating them in the machines (kasowniks) next to the doors. Failure to do so will result in a 270zł fine (plus the price of a normal ticket), if you’re caught by ticket inspectors. Due to redevelopment of the transport network in the city, the ticket options have temporarily changed and will remain as follows until the end of 2020: 3.00zł (1.50zł) 20 minutes (now valid for 40 mins) 3.80zł (1.90zł) 40 minutes (now valid for 60 mins) One day passes (valid till 23:59 that day) can be purchased from kiosks (Zone I: 12zł / 6zł Zone I + II: 14.40zł / 7.20zł). Both trams and buses usually operate from 05:00 until 23:00 after which night buses (marked with an N) serve the city.QM‑10, ul. Tramwajowa 6, tel. (+48) 42 638 90 20, www.mpk.lodz.pl.
TAXIS Taxis in Łódź are generally trustworthy although you should guard against unscrupulous drivers by going for taxis which have clearly displayed prices. As a yardstick, rates should be around 6zł the moment you get in and then around 2zł per kilometre. You should expect to pay approximately 50% more at night and on Sundays and public holidays. A standard day fair to/from the airport from the centre of Łódź will cost around 20-40zł. TALIXO This global transport service (operating in over 750 cities) connects you to the best local taxi and limousine fleets. Their simple online reservation system allows you to get a ride that matches your needs, whether it’s a child seat or just a super fly ride. Specialising in airport transfers, their system can track your flight, ensuring that your English-speaking driver will be there (looking snappy with a personalised sign), whether you land ahead of or behind schedule.Qtel. (+49) 30 346 49 73 60, www.talixo.com/iyp-lodz.
Łódź’s iconic ‘Unicorn Stables’, otherwise known as the Central © Aleksandra Piechorowska Tram Stop.
Polish Facts & Language
The Polish language can feel like a maze, or an optical illusion at times... | © Alana de Haan
Some of you arriving in a new country like to know some basic facts about the place. So in a whirlwind, here you go: Poland covers an area of 312,685km2 and is the 9th biggest country in Europe. Its population is 38,858,000 with Warsaw, the capital, being the largest city with 1,763,615 inhabitants and Łódź being the 3rd largest with 687,702 (behind Kraków’s 769,564). The longest river is the Vistula (Wisła) at 1,047km, and the highest point is Rysy (2,499m) in the Tatra Mountains. The local currency is the Złoty (gold), with a 0.5L of beer costing you roughly 2.75zł in a shop and 10.00zł in a bar. Now that you’re here, attempting discourse in the Polish language can be terrifying and humiliating, but fortunately many Poles have a healthy command of English. Learning a few key Polish phrases will nonetheless smooth your time here and may even win you friends. On the downside, Polish is officially recognised as one of the most difficult languages for native English speakers to learn. On the upside, words in Polish are actually spelled the way they are pronounced. While many letters represent the same sounds as in English, we have listed some basic words and phrases to help you get by. Powodzenia (Good luck)!
BASIC PRONUNCIATION ‘ą’ sounds like ‘on’ in the French ‘bon’ ‘ę’ sounds like ‘en’ as in the French ‘bien’ ‘ó’ is an open ‘o’ sound like ‘oo’ in ‘boot’ ‘c’ like the ‘ts’ in ‘bits’‘ ‘j’ like the ‘y’ in ‘yeah’ ‘w’ is pronounced like the English ‘v’ ‘ł’ like the ‘w’ in ‘win’ ‘ń’ like the ‘ny’ in ‘canyon’ ‘cz’ and ‘ć’ like the ‘ch’ in ‘beach’ ‘dz’ like the ‘ds’ in ‘beds’ ‘rz’ and ‘ż’ like the ‘su’ in ‘treasure’ ‘sz’ and ‘ś’ like the ‘sh’ in ‘ship’ ‘drz’ like the ‘g’ in ‘George’ ‘r’ is always rolled
POLISH WORDS & PHRASES Yes No Hi/Bye (informal) Hello/Good day (formal) Good evening (formal) Good-bye Good Night Please Thank you Excuse me/Sorry
Tak Nie Cześć Dzień dobry Dobry wieczór Do widzenia Dobranoc Proszę Dziękuję Przepraszam
(Tahk) (Nyeh) (Cheshch) (Jen doh-bri) (Doh-bri vyeh-choor) (Doh veet-zen-ya) (Doh-brah-noats) (Prosheh) (Jen-koo-yeh) (Psheh-prasham)
My name is... I’m from England. Do you speak English? I don’t speak Polish. I don’t understand. Two beers, please. Cheers! Where are the toilets? You are beautiful. I love you. Please take me home. Call me!
Mam na imię... Jestem z Anglii Czy mówisz po angielsku? Nie mówię po polsku. Nie rozumiem. Dwa piwa proszę. Na zdrowie! Gdzie są toalety? Jesteś piękna. Kocham cię. Proszę zabierz mnie do domu. Zadzwoń do mnie!
(Mam nah ee-myeh…) (Yehstem zanglee) (Che moo-veesh po an-gyel-skoo?) (Nyeh moo-vyeh po pol-skoo.) (Nyeh row-zoo-me-ehm.) (Dvah peevah prosheh.) (Nah zdrovyeh!) (Gdjeh sawn toe-letih) (Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.) (Ko-hahm chuh.) (Prosheh za-byesh mnyeh doh doh-moo.) (Zads-dvoan doh mnyeh!)
Tadeusz Kościuszko stands guard at ‘Plac Wolności’ (Freedom Square), the gateway to ul. Piotrkowska. | © AdobeStock, whitelook
Łódź Sightseeing Despite a long association with industry and being the City of Film and Cinema, Łódź has not only revitalised these aspects of its image, but has outgrown these basic labels to become so much more. There’s a lot to be discovered here, so let us help you sift through this city’s bag of tricks. Read on over the next few pages... 20
Most trips to Łódź will most likely begin on one street in particular: ulica Piotrkowska (J-9/K-17). Measuring a little under five kilometres, it ranks as Europe’s longest pedestrian street and is lined with restaurants, beer gardens, hot-dog stands, and a mix of Neo-Renaissance and Art Nouveau buildings. Starting at the Tadeusz Kościuszko statue (J-9) the street stretches southwards with crews of all-yearround rickshaws (7zł from end to end) spiriting travellers to the destination of choice. Check out the courtyard at Piotrkowska 3 where you’ll find Róża’s passage (p.23), a fantastic piece of urban art with mirror shard mosaics covering the buildings. It may seem unlikely but Łódź is also Poland’s answer to Tinseltown. Having produced directors like Wajda, Polański and Kieślowski the Polish Hollywood (p.32) has made an undeniable impact on world cinema. Opened in 1986 and housed inside Karol Scheibler’s extraordinary 19th-century palace, the Museum of Cinematography (p.33) is essentially two unique attractions in one. The museum itself offers an extremely well-presented history of Polish cinema and takes plenty of hats off to the multitude of Polish film greats who studied in the city before going on to greater things, as well as numerous changing exhibitions. This is the only museum of its kind in Poland, and a rewarding experience for fans of Polish cinema.
Museum of the Factory in Manufaktura
Poznański was Jewish by birth and you can visit his fearsome mausoleum (the biggest Jewish tomb in the world) at Europe’s largest Jewish cemetery (p.36), founded in 1892, it contains over 180,000 tombs. Łódź is famous for its Jewish heritage, though this was all but wiped out in WWII when the city became the home of the notorious Litzmannstadt Ghetto. Over 230,000 Jews were confined here, with over 200,000 eventually transferred to death camps. Jews were transferred to camps from Radegast Station (p.36) and today visitors can view three cattle trucks that have since been preserved. But the suffering was by no means exclusive to Jews, as a visit to the Museum of the Tradition of Independence (p.41) proves. Found inside what was once a former Tsarist prison, this museum offers a chronological journey through the misfortunes Łódź suffered under the rule of Imperial Russia, Nazi Germany and the Soviet Union, offering an often disturbing insight into life under occupation and rule during each of these periods.
Jarosław Klamka CC BY-SA 3.0
If you wish to experience a more interactive museum, the former power station turned cultural centre EC1 (p.30) houses the planetarium and science and technology centre. If, however, you’re a bit exhausted after all these museum visits head to OFF Piotrkowska (p.24) to unwind. This is yet another Post-Industrial enclave of former factory buildings that have been converted to bars, restaurants and cafes. Unlike Manufaktura, OFF is decidedly more alternative and plays host to many of the city’s more cutting edge festivals, fairs and concerts.
The industrialist Łódz is most famous for however is none other than Izrael Poznański, and his palace is now home to the Museum of the City of Łódź (p.44). His factory has since been developed into the Manufaktura shopping and leisure complex, and it’s here you’ll also find the official museum of the site - Museum of the Factory (p.44) Plac Wolności
Photo by Kozłowski, Kaczmarkiewicz
Piotrkowska North street at Plac Wolności, the street stretches southwards with crews of all-year-round rickshaws (5zł per person from end to end) spiriting travellers to the destination of choice. Pretty much all of Łódź’s major industrialists kept residences on this street, as if their palaces were not enough, and many of the buildings boast intricate details on their facades; ranging from reliefs of dolphins to dragons to demons.
Splitting Łódź into two, ulica Piotrkowska stands out as the commercial and social heart of the city. Measuring just under five kilometres, it ranks as Europe’s longest pedestrian street and is lined with restaurants, beer gardens, street food stands, and a mix of neorenaissance and art nouveau buildings; the majority now restored to their former glory. There’s no doubt the northern half is the busiest section of the street, and most visitors will start their Łódź escapades here. Starting at the Tadeusz Kościuszko statue at the northern end of the
Łódź’s most recognizable hotel can be found halfway down Piotrkowska. Constructed in 1887-1888 the neorenaissance Grand Hotel (J/K-11) was originally the work of Ludwik Meyer, though the building saw sweeping renovations (including an extra floor) in 1913, courtesy of the architect Dawid Lande – a man whose designs deeply influenced the appearance of Piotrkowska. Directly outside the hotel is the ‘Walk of Fame’ – starshaped plaques celebrating Poland’s most famous cinema artists and directors. Other highlights to keep an eye out for include pianist Artur Rubinstein’s statue, and the ‘Turn of the Millennium’ walk: running from Piotrkowska 98 through till 146 you’ll find 12,859 names of Łódź residents engraved into the paving. Elsewhere monuments of famous characters related to Łódź (the aforementioned Rubinstein, Polish writer and Nobel Laureate Władysław Reymont (K-13) and writer and poet Julian Tuwim (K-12) etc.) can be found dispersed around the street. You’ll also find a statue to one of Poland’s most famous bears, Miś Uszatek (J-11), one of 9 Fairytale Łódź statues found around the city. The most popular part of the street is no doubt OFF Piotrkowska (p.26), with its many bars, cafes, restaurants and all round good feel places. In more recent years Łódź entered the Guinness Book of Records for a time as possessing the largest mural in the world, now deemed one of the largest in Europe. Painted by the Design Futura group in November 2001, the mural took two months to complete and is apparently very symbolic. The ‘city of Łódź’ mural Features Plac Wolności and the Kościuszko monument, Old Town Hall, an old tram and the city’s emblem on the side of a boat, the work combines the traditional with the modern and is well worth having a look at. Find it in the car park at ul. Piotrkowska 152, and just around the corner you will find another mural by Spanish artist Aryz and Brazilian brothers Os Gemeos. At the intersection of Piotrkowska, at al. Piłsudskiego, the officially named central tram stop (Dworzec Tramwajowy Centrum) is affectionately known by locals as ‘Stajnia Jednorożców’ (Unicorn Stables) due to its colourful mosaic roof.
ROOSEVELTA 10 B 90-056 ŁÓDŹ
ARTUR RUBINSTEIN’S PIANO Szytenchelm’s idea of adding a monument to local writer and poet Julian Tuwim to Piotrkowska 104 proved so popular he expanded on it, adding the figure of Artur Rubinstein to Piotrkowska 78 - the address where he once lived - a year later. Weighing one tonne, and depicting the pianist dwarfed behind a winged piano, the sculpture created
Linat Orchim Dętka Canal Museum Pomorska - pl. Wolności
Fountain of Love
Zachodnia - Legionów
Pl. Tadeusz Kościuszko Wolności Archaeology
Scale 1:10 000 1 cm = 100 m
& Ethnography 0 Pentecostal Church
Rewolucji 1905 r.
Zachodnia - Próchnika
Arlekin Puppet Home & Travel Theatre New Zachodnia - Więckowskiego Theatre
Three Factory Owners Jaracza
a storm. A music box was part of the original parcel, and with the insertion of a two złoty coin visitors could choose a piano tune which would then be played. The tourists loved it, the critics hated it – not to mention the residents who lived directly above the incessant fairground noise. Local art figures slammed the installation, citing amateur workmanship and shoddy proportions. Ewa Rubinstein, the pianist’s daughter, threw her toys right out of the pram and at one stage threatened to boycott the city unless the statue was removed. Moved to voice her anger to the President and Prime Minister she was eventually placated by the permanent removal of the music box, and rumours persist of the statue’s impending demise.QJ‑11, ul. Piotrkowska 78.
Zachodnia - Legionów
Legionów - Zachodnia
The Lamp Man Zachodnia - Zielona
Arrivia Bed & Breakfast
Kościuszki - Zielona
Villa Gallery/ Chimera Gallery
Savoy G en. Traugutta
Grand Hotel Łódź Walk Moniuszki B&B Hotel of Fame Łódź Centrum Arthur Rubinstein’s Piano Miś Uszatek City Center Rooms Struga
Kościuszki - Struga
Julian Tuwim’s Bench City Hall
AL . KOŚCIUSZKI
Kościuszki - Zamenhofa Zamenhofa
Exaltation of the
Pl. Holy Cross Komuny Paryskiej
Odlot Gallery Flamingo Hostel
Good Time Stare Kino Cinema Residence
Władysław Reymont’s Trunk OFF Piotrkowska
AL . KOŚCIUSZKI
Youth Hostel FAIRYTALE ŁÓDŹ What started off as a novelty turned into a downright obsession with monuments. Unveiled between 2009-15, 9 Łódź Bajkowa (Fairytale Łódź) monuments are dotted around the city, depicting cartoon characters created by the famous Se-ma-for animation studio in Łódź. The more known (and first to be unveiled on October 24, 2009) is Miś Uszatek, a fictional cartoon bear, who has been entertaining Polish kids since 1957, and stands proudly on ul. Piotrkowska 87 with his trademark floppy ear.QJ‑6, ul. Piotrkowska 87.
Kościuszki - Struga
RÓŻA’S PASSAGE Walking through the courtyard from Piotrkowska 3 (or from ul. Zachodnia 56) really highlights how such a simple idea can have a big impact. Róża’s Passage brings light and intrigue to this once gloomy spot with a rundown hotel later turned into residential flats, by creating funky mosaics that reflect natural light via thousands of mirror shards. The effect is stunning and truly transforms the surrounding buildings. Creator Joanna Rajkowska (also responsible for the palm tree in Warsaw!) chose the name after her daughter, Róża, who at a young age was diagnosed with a rare form of eye cancer. Following chemotherapy, she was again able to see. Róża’s Passage underwent the same journey, as, in the author’s own words, [it went] “from not seeing to seeing”.QJ‑9, ul. Piotrkowska 3. Courtyard open daily 08:00-22:00. Admission free.
Łódz Philharmonic Narutowicza - Piotrkowska Narutowicza Zielona Zielona - Kościuszki Zielona - Piotrkowska
Jaracz's Chair Piotrkowska Centrum © OpenStreetMap contributors. Available under the Open Database License.
Novotel 23 Łódź Ibis Centrum
OFF Piotrkowska Towards the end of 2010 the massive potential of the area was spotted by the young and very enthusiastic artistic visionaries of the city, and a whole host of bars, clubs, alternative music venues, studios, independent design companies and publishing houses started appearing in the area.
There’s always something unique going on in OFF
While Manufaktura is undoubtedly the rich and sanitised version of the ultimate shopping experience in postindustrial Łódź. OFF Piotrkowska is an altogether different, unique and alternative proposition. Situated just off ul. Piotrkowska (hence the name) between numbers 138-140, the complex has taken over the beautiful old cotton mill buildings of the former Ramisch factory (C-11). Originally from Czechoslovakia, the Ramisch family relocated to Łódź in the 1830’s and in 1850 purchased the first plot of land on which construction of the factory began; adjoining plots were purchased as the empire expanded. By 1909 the factory, in the very heart of the city, was firing on all cylinders. Production continued right up until 1990, after which the buildings and their rich heritage were all but forgotten about and the area fell into a sad and dilapidated state.
ROOSEVELTA 10 C 90-056 ŁÓDŹ
Reminiscent of similar places in London or Berlin, OFF continues to attract new and off-beat local businesses with their pulse on current trends and fashions. The past, the present and the future all coexist magically without the need for the kind of massive investment which would ultimately strip the place of its ramshackle glamour. On the makeover point, it should be mentioned that the current developer/investor has already drawn up plans for a total upgrading and renovation of the area in the style of a mini-Manufaktura; here’s hoping that never goes ahead! To enter this gem of a place, head through the gate in the ugly sandstone coloured wall at ul. Piotrkowska 138 (C11) into the large space of wasteland, which looks like a cleared minefield, pass Asian fast food huts, the drunken down-and-outs and head towards the huge red brick buildings, you can’t really miss them! This is the alternative beating heart of the city which, unsurprisingly enough, also plays host to the fantastic Fotofestiwal every June. The techno club here, Dom, is NOT to be missed.
RESTAURANTS DOKI GASTROBAR This towering domino stack of chic shipping containers is the perfect visualisation of how trendy OFF Piotrkowska has become. Their stylish street food menu manages to hit on all the trendiest foods that many of OFF’s other establishments have brought to the city. Hamburgers and frites - check, steaks - check! Seafood - check, Vegan and Vegetarian dishes - check... craft beer - check… bespoke cocktails - check. Not only is this now the place to be seen but climb the domino stack and enjoy your savoury snack and bubbly beverage in their heated rooftop terrace view over all that frontside OFF has to offer.QK‑13, ul. Piotrkowska 138/140, tel. (+48) 42 307 31 01. Open 12:00-24:00; Fri 12:00-02:00; Sat 10:0002:00; Sun 11:00-01:00. €€€. TB6 NÓŻ For any Polish speakers reading this, don’t be put off by the name ‘Nóż’, meaning ‘knife’ in Polish - you are not being invited to a dangerous knife party. You are, in fact, welcomed into a Spanish restaurant, specialising in tapas and other delights. The interior of the restaurant, found in OFF Piotrkowska, has a nice Mediterranean feel to it, fitting nicely into the industrial frame of the building. There’s even a nice neon inside to go with Łódź’s forward thinking art scene. Back to the food: it’s great. Choose from tapas to paella, and don’t miss out on the wines, some of which are exclusive to Nóż. Lunch options are available Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00 consisting of soup, main and dessert for 20-23zł.QK‑13, ul. Roosevelta 10C, tel. (+48) 794 44 00 44. Open 09:00-22:00; Thu 09:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 09:0024:00. €€. TE6
LEN I BAWEŁNA We awaited the new arrival to OFF Piotrkowska with curious anticipation. From the owners that brought the same cool ambience of OFF Piotrkowska to a small part of Manufaktura in Bawełna (p.46) it was decided to take things up a notch by opening Len i Bawełna. The fantastic new restaurant provides the perfect blend of International cuisine with a touch of Polish flare, being a perfect space for casual meetings, families, and even business people. The drinks menu is something to raise an eyebrow to, as for as much Poland is known for vodka (which features on the menu), the big thing to try are the Polish regional wines - I bet you didn’t think the country had a buoyant wine scene, huh?QK‑13, ul. Roosevelta 6/12, tel. (+48) 42 201 59 50, www.lenibawelna.com. Open 09:00-24:00; Mon 12:0023:00; Fri 09:00–01:00; Sat 09:00-01:00; Sun 09:00-23:00. €€€. TB6
FOR GENTLEMEN, PUNKS & DIVAS
NIGHTLIFE BRUSH BARBER SHOP & COCKTAIL BAR ‘Never run with scissors!’ goes the old saying, and if it doesn’t already exist, I’m sure ‘don’t drink alcohol and use scissors!’ would be a good one too. Why the safety lessons from us? Well, because by day, this is a pretty damn cool barber shop, and by night, a cocktail bar! A strange mix, but this is Łódź, and this is OFF Piotrkowska, where an eclectic mixture of venues have become the norm. The cocktail menu is colourful, to say the least, and be rest assured the transition to cocktail bar at 19:00 is done expertly - you won’t find a single hair in your drink!QK‑13, ul. Roosevelta 10B, tel. (+48) 795 77 05 77. Open 08:00-18:00; Wed, Thu 08:00-24:00; Fri 08:00-02:00; Sat 09:00-02:00; Sun 18:0023:00. Barber shop is working until 19:00, coctail bar is on after 19:00. E DOM This is the place you want to head to if you’re a techno fiend! We could easily leave it at that. The club itself looks like squatters have taken over an empty industrial space: it’s nothing but concrete, a simple bar in an open room. The sparseness here works and most of you will be looking for exactly that; the focus is on the rotating DJs and nothing more.QK‑13, ul. Roosevelta 10B. Open 13:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 13:00-06:00. E
Doki Gastrobar Restaurant Łódź ul. Piotrkowska 138/140 25
The White Factory, now the Central Museum of Textiles (p.29)
For many tourists and first time visitors to Łódź walking down ul. Piotrkowska pedestrian strip can seem like a never ending journey. When you finally reach al. Piłsudskiego in the middle, the main artery heading eastwest, it can feel like a real relief. Well, we have good and bad news. Piotrkowska not only keeps going but it has even more alternative culture, terrific gastronomy and more post-industrial complexes for you to explore! So muster your strength, strap on your boots and head to what feels like the unfairly neglected Piotrkowska South. Łódź has become synonymous with post industrial cool. It is already one of the biggest success stories in Poland if not Central Europe of how a post industrial city can and should recover and adapt after the collapse of heavy industry, textiles and manufacturing in the 20th century. The transformation of the Manufaktura complex was just the starting point and the revitalisation of former disused factory buildings across the city has only spread. Many of the abandoned buildings being converted into exclusive lofts or commercial real estate (ie. the Lofts at Księży Młyn). However another trend has taken hold over the last decade which is quite unique to Łódź and that is the development of factory and courtyard complexes into thriving gastronomical, artistic and nightlife venues and full blown destinations. OFF Piotrkowska, in the northern half of the street, is the best case example of what kind of synergy and energy can manifest when local business minds, property developers, artists and gastronomic visionaries come together. OFF grew slowly and organically and is now in full swing!
PIOTRKOWSKA 217 Piotrkowska 217, which is conveniently also the address to tell your friendly rickshaw/taxi driver if you don’t feel up to a brisk walk or bike south, is a former iron smelting factory with a similarly illustrious history to other factories in town, however on a slightly smaller scale. Okam Property Developers purchased the space over five years ago and quickly set out renovating many of the former machine halls and former workshops in the complex. Right out of the gates Okam declared they wanted P217 to be a creative zone for artists and entrepreneurs and they have stuck to their guns ever since. Unlike OFF however, which focused more on nightlife and alternative urban culture (here’s looking at you hipsters), P217 focuses first and foremost on food. And not just any old food – but street food from around the world. Before Okam had even finished renovating P217 they organised the very first Łódź Street Food Festival in January of 2014. Today, P217 contains a host of quality venues from cafes, restaurants, bars and leisure venues where you and the kids can get your skates on or even learn about old sowing techniques in tailored workshops (you are, afterall, in the former textile capital of Poland!). There’s also space for hosting events, exhibitions, conferences or special occasions. Make sure to check their site for the latest info on upcoming events.QK‑15, ul. Piotrkowska 217, www.piotrkowska217.pl. ART FACTORY This is a cultural centre that packs a punch. Not only is it a former industrial site, once part of Karol Scheibler’s Księży Młyn (p.29) factory complex (yes, it was that big!), converted into an art hub in 2014, the Art Factory is home to the Łódź Art Center and Art Inkubator. The site is home to small businesses, start-ups and art spaces, so it’s not unusual that its large open floors can be used as a club per se (definitely don’t come strutting this way looking for DJs and discoballs) but also various shows. This is an absolutely essential part of the Łódź cultural landscape. Expect to find regular world class concerts, fine art and photography exhibitions (Fotofest!), theatre projects and everything in between. There’s even a cafe available for visitors, for those just wishing to take a peak at the architectural mix of old and new (a must). Check out their
You can easily spend many hours in Piotrkowska South, starting at the fantastic Piotrkowska 217 then working your way to the Art Factory to experience the vibrant revitalisations of former industrial sites. Heading further south, you come to the gem of the White Factory, lovingly converted into the Central Museum of Textiles. For the more adventurous amongst you, a walk or bike ride east to the Karol Scheibler’s former ‘city within a city’ at his former palace (now the Museum of Cinematography) and the textile factory complex of Księży Młyn is a must. Art Inkubator
Piłsudskiego - Sienkiewicza
AL . PIŁSUDSKIEGO
AL . MICKIEWICZA
AL . KOŚCIUSZKI
Relax Wigury Piotrkowska - Żwirki
Piotrkowska - Brzeźna
Piotrkowska - Brzeźna
K A l . PC
Piotrkowska - pl. Katedralny
Pope John Paul II
Pl. Jana Pawła II
k eniec Tymi
ie g o
Piotrkowska - pl. Katedralny
WHERE TO EAT
Piotrkowska - Czerwona
Milionowa Czerwona Piotrkowska - Czerwona
Central Museum of Textiles in Łódź
Trzy Misie (Three Bears)
Open-Air Museum of Wooden Architecture
Przybyszewskiego - pl. Reymonta
© OpenStreetMap contributors. Available under the Open Database License.
Scale 1:10 000 1 cm = 100 m
BISTRO KORZENIE Find this neat vegan bistro in the increasingly vibrant courtyard at Piotrkowska 217 - as well as a few cafes, restaurants etc. which can cater to all tastes, including good ole street food trucks! But we digresss. The menu in Birsto Korzenie changes every 3 weeks and presents gluten free and vegan dishes from around the world (try the pizza!), a non-corporate soft drinks selection, fresh original recipe cocktails and cakes and teas/coffess. Formerly a print house, the interior is now filled with a variety of tables and chairs lovingly restored by the owners. A friendly and casual atmosphere where four-legged friends are also most welcome!QK‑15, ul. Piotrkowska 217, tel. (+48) 530 03 33 27. Open 12:00-22:00; Mon, Tue, Wed 12:0021:00; Sun 13:00-20:00. €. U6
Łódź Street Food Festival in Piotrkowska 217
CENTRAL MUSEUM OF TEXTILES IN ŁÓDŹ To understand exactly what Łódź is all about, and to really get under the city’s skin, a visit to the Textile Museum is a good place to start. Although everything is displayed in Polish only, the two floors of exhibition rooms containing a mind-boggling array of steam-driven looms, fabric-printing machines, contrasting recreations of how the workers and their factory-owning bosses lived and worked, original paintings of Łódź in its 19th-century heyday, lace, rugs and other paraphernalia connected to the textile industry speak volumes about the city that’s often referred to as the Manchester of Poland. The icing on the cake: the museum is housed inside Ludwig Geyer’s mammoth 19thcentury White Factory (Biała Fabryka), an extraordinary building worthy of a journey in itself. Please note: partial renovation taking place.QK‑17, ul. Piotrkowska 282, tel. (+48) 42 683 26 84, www.cmwl.pl. Open 09:0017:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00-19:00; closed Mon. Admission 6/4zł. Thu free for permanent exibitions. U
Novotel Łódź Centrum
website for all news on upcoming events and exhibitions. QL‑16, ul. Tymienieckiego 3, tel. (+48) 42 646 88 65, www.fabrykasztuki.org. Open 09:00-17:00. Only open at weekends if an exhibition is running.
Just part of the once mighty Księży Młyn (Priest’s Mill, p.31) which covered 15% of the city! | Photo: Fotopolska.eu
In the last decade, Łódź has undergone a major transformation, modernising, while focusing on the ace up its sleeve – its industrial heritage. This knack for change is nothing new to Łódź; it‘s pretty much the reason it exists as an important city. The Industrial Revolution sparked Łódź‘s rapid development, and now post-industrial redevelopment is making the city an exciting destination once again. So how did this once small village turn into one of the most important industrial cities in Europe? The first record of a settlement dates back to 1332, under the name Łódzia; 10 years later it was granted city rights by King Władysław Jagiello. It remained a small backwater with a population of about 800 through the centuries. In 1815, following Napoleon‘s retreat from Russia, it was incorporated into Russian-controlled Congress Poland. Although displeasing Poles, economically it turned out to be a game changer. In 1820, state official Rajmund Rembieliński, interested in economic and urban expansion, redesigned the city‘s layout (which has remained almost unchanged), and crucially included transportation arteries. In 1825, statesman, philosopher and writer Stanisław Staszic started a campaign to turn Łódź into a centre of manufacturing, drawing the conclusion that Łódź was perfect due to the numerous rivers and streams, which would provide water for factories, and for the abundance of timber from nearby forests. The first cotton mill opened in 1825 and in 1839 the first steam-powered factory in Poland and Russia. An influx of 28
workers from as far as Portugal, England and France came to the city, though the mainstay of the town’s population was made up of Poles and Germans, including many Jews. Those who lived in the surrounding rural areas saw Łódź as a land of milk and honey. Polish author and Nobel laureate Władysław Reymont put it thusly in his famous late19th century Łódź-based novel Ziemia Obiecana (The Promised Land): „For that ‘promised land’ – for that tumour – villages were deserted, forests died out, the land was depleted of its treasures, the rivers dried up, people were born. And it sucked everything into itself. And in its powerful jaws it crushed and chewed up people and things, sky and earth, in return giving useless millions to a handful of people, and hunger and hardship to the whole throng.“ Within a matter of decades the city grew into the biggest textile production centre in the Russian Empire. In 1850, the customs barrier between Congress Poland and Russia was abolished, a move which saw Łódź’s economic influence grow further. By the end of the 19th century, Łódź‘s population reached 300,000, and with it, not only did the city see prosperity, but growing inequality and dissatisfaction amongst the working classes, which came to a head in 1905 when residents rose up in open revolt. Over 300 protestors were killed as Tsarist police regained control of the city. By the outbreak of WWI Łódź was one of the most densely populated cities on the planet with a population of approximately 13,000 people per km2. By 1915, the city came under German occupation though three years later the end of the war heralded Polish
Industrial Łódź independence. The city lost nearly 40% of its population to the post-war influenza epidemic and huge social migration of its German inhabitants. Łódź’s textile trade faced collapse after losing Russian and German markets, with strikes and civil unrest a feature of inter-war Łódź. The city‘s ‘golden age’ was well and truly over.
WHAT TO SEE The most obvious choice is Manufaktura (p.42), however, the city is full of post-industrial sites such as OFF Piotrkowska (p.24), Piotrkowska 217 (p.26), EC1 (p.30) and the Museum of Cinematography (p.33), to name a few. Something altogether different - the former villas of the industrialists have been turned into museums, schools, or used by local authorities. The most famous example is the Neo-Baroque palace of Manufaktura‘s owner, Israeł Poznański, which is now home to the Museum of the City (p.44). To gauge how rich Poznański was, you need to also see his lavish Poznański mausoleum in the Jewish cemetery (p.36) – not exactly modest! Another of the city‘s outstanding architectural monuments is the Herbst Palace (below), once home to the Herbst and Scheiber industrial families. You can easily contrast such extravagance with the very modest former worker tenements (still lived in today), which can be found across from the main entrances to Manufaktura at ul. Ogrodowa 24/26 (I8) and the former Księży Młyn factory complex on ul. Tymienieckiego 25A. This is a city littered with postindustrial sites, the majority featuring in this guide, just waiting to be explored. KSIĘŻY MŁYN & HERBST PALACE Księży Młyn (Priest’s Mill) was first mentioned in 1484 in reference to a mill built on the Jasien River in 1387. The original complex was burnt to the ground on May 9, 1822 and 3 years later the Polish cotton-spinning specialist Krystian Wendisch began building a new mill on the site, which was by this time a 2km street called Przędzalniana (Spinning Mill Street), on what’s now ul. Tymienieckiego. In 1854, the 28-year-old Belgian-German Karol Scheibler arrived in Łódź. From a family who made their fortune in cloth, Scheibler opened a modern factory and was soon leaving the competition behind. In October 1870 Scheibler bought the mill for 40,000 rubles and began transforming
Villa Gallery/Kindermann Villa
© Sławomir Miejski
what was by now a 500ha area. Here Scheibler built not only mills, but an entire gasworks to light his factories and the neighbouring workers’ houses too - the first private gasworks in the city. In 1878 Scheibler added a direct train connection with the main train station. By now the southern end of the complex was known as Manufaktura Księży Młyn. In 1874 tragedy struck, and the main mill burnt down. Not discouraged, Scheibler invested even more money and in 1875 Scheibler added several two-story houses for his workers and opened a school for their children. In 1881 Karol Scheibler died. Księży Młyn continued to grow, with the opening of a hospital (another first, this being the first factory hospital in Poland), and on June 20, 1884, Łódź’s first voluntary fire brigade unit was founded here. WWII destroyed most of Księży Młyn, although some of it survived including the original Residence - today home to the Herbst Palace Museum. The design of the interiors and the new arrangement of the rooms were based on documents from the Office of the Head Conservationist and archival photographic material that was uncovered. The remainder of the entire complex has been converted into apartments and a host of cafes and restaurants.QO‑15, ul. Tymienieckiego 25A. Open 11:00-17:00; closed Mon. Admission to one out of three permanent exhibits is 15/8zł, students under 26 pay just 1zł; Thu free for all exhibits. Combined tickets available for MS1, MS2 and Herbst Palace for 30/20zł. VILLA GALLERY/CHIMERA GALLERY Villa Gallery, otherwise known as ‘Kindermann’s Villa’ is one part of the City Art Gallery which has a history dating back to 1924 - the oldest cultural institute in Łódź. The building used as the HQ since 1975 is a fine Art Nouveau villa, built in 1902/03 by local architect Gustaw LandauGutenteger for industrialist Leopold Kindermann. The gallery presents Polish and international comprehensive exhibitions across the mediums, and since 1979 has held the international exhibition of graphic art. Before entering, take in the extraordinary detail of the building - inside it gets better with the organic flow of detail on the windows to the fine marble fireplace.QJ‑11, ul. Wólczańska 31/33, tel. (+48) 42 632 79 95, www.mgslodz.pl. Open 11:0018:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-17:00; closed Mon. Tickets 6/4zł. Thu free. N 29
EC1 Łódź, making waves in the city centre.
The second stage of one of the most monumental architectural, industrial, scientific and cultural structures in Europe is now complete. The complex is known to us mere mortals as EC1 and the east and west wings of this impressive space are now open for business. The mere presence of these glorious structures has dramatically changed the landscape of Łódź’s city centre which is only enhanced by the revitalisation of the equally impressive Łódź Fabryczna train station (p.16). The story goes like this: In February 2007 Łódź city authorities finally decided to do something about the dreadful state the city found itself in (the phrase ‘postindustrial wasteland’ comes to mind). In co-operation with the World Arts Foundation they handed the job of drawing up the master plan to Rob Krier, a Luxembourg-
Red brick mixed with modern architecture - lovely!
born architect with a string of accolades to his name. What he came up with was a complete restructuring of the area between ul. Kiliński, Kopcińskiego, Narutowicza and Tuwima. He consulted with many Polish and international designers and prominent artists (David Lynch was originally attached to the project), and his final design, while revolutionary and modern, also incorporates many of the industrial elements that define the city’s architecture. EC1 itself is actually the local name for the former electric factory (Elektrociepłownia 1). Originally constructed in 1907, the plant supplied power to the city up until 2001, after which it was allowed to fall into disrepair. The project to breathe life back into the EC1 complex was divided into several stages with the plant and surrounding areas split into sections with the aim to provide a real cultural experience; a place, if you will, to think and to experience – a city within a city. As we mentioned earlier, EC1 East is the first building to be opened to the public. It serves as a cultural space hosting workshops, art exhibitions and other various cultural events. In this part of the factory there is also a Planetarium (p.31), already visited by over 200,000 people since opening and voted top spot in the National Geographic’s 7 Wonders of Poland competition 2016. Also, EC1 East is home to the National Centre for Film Culture and next to it, the Łódź Film Commission. The adjacent EC1 West, as of January 2018, houses Poland’s largest interactive Science & Technology Centre (p.31), which primarily hosts a permanent exhibition consisting of interactive devices and displays that enable the public
EC1 to take part in activities, experience, observe and study the phenomena of various physical and chemical reactions as well as examine many biological structures up close. There are also selected exhibits covering other disciplines too, such as the humanities, archaeology palaeontology and the social sciences. If that’s not enough, it also houses a 3D Omnimax Cinema complex which is one of the most advanced in all of Europe, projecting films in stunning 4k resolution. Revitalisation work has already begun on EC1 South East, which were once workshops, and will become the future home of the Comic & Interactive Narrative Centre, the only educational and cultural space in Poland that will be fully dedicated to comics and computer games. 3D spherical cinema - not a UFO!
Head to ec1lodz.pl to see photos and stunning visualisations of what is yet to come.
CENTRE FOR SCIENCE & TECHNOLOGY EC1 Finally, in January 2018, the Centre for Science and Technology opened for business! Time for the fun to begin for children and adults alike - remember, this was once a fully operational power station (from 1907-2000), so the majority of the giant machinery you see lying around is original. Indeed, so important is this hardware, the majority of it features in the main exhibition ‘Producing Energy’, which takes you through the step by step process of how electricity is produced, right from the coal arriving to the former station, right up until energy is produced for you to boil the kettle and turn on your light switches. Venture onward for the truly fascinating stuff - the intricacies of the universe, where you’ll learn during the ‘Micro World - Macro World’ exhibition within the mightily impressive spherical 3D cinema. Yes, that big silver golf ball! Entering feels like a mix between being Professor X entering Cerebro, or an excited contestant dashing into the Crystal Maze. And on that note, remember the most important thing: have fun, and open your mind to the experience.QL‑11, ul. Targowa 1/3 (entrance from ul. Wojciecha Jerzego Hasa), tel. (+48) 539 99 76 93, www.ec1lodz.pl. Open 09:00-17:00; Sat, Sun 10:0019:00; closed Mon. Last entrance 2 hours before closing. Admission 23/17zł, Sat, Sun 29/22zł.
PLANETARIUM EC1 The Planetarium is one of the most modern and technically advanced spherical projection cinemas in all of Central Europe. The screen has a diameter of 14 metres and the camera will display images with a stunning resolution of 8K. Inside the theatre there is space for 110 spectators. Part of the mission of the Planetarium is to accommodate school groups during the day, but in the afternoon it is open to the general public showing a mix of classic and cutting-edge astronomical shows. In the evenings they open the theatre up for artistic projects and experiments mixing breathtaking images with live music (check out Pink Floyd’s The Wall Laser Show).QM‑11, ul. Targowa 1/3, tel. (+48) 42 233 50 55, www.planetariumec1.pl. Open 08:30-19:00; Sat, Sun 09:30-19:00; closed Mon. Last show and last entrance at 18:30. Admission 18/13zł, Sat, Sun 20/14zł.
Teach the kids the fun way in the planetarium
Fans of industrial machinery, rejoice! It’s all part of the Centre for Sci & Tech.
And that will be that, everything is set to be completed, and up and running by the end of 2020. The full cost of the project is set to be 265m zł (€62m) with 85.6m zł (€20m) coming from EU funds. The full name for the entire complex gives credence to its true scope: EC1 Łódź - the City of Culture. Even though it is yet to become fully operational (Death Star references are wholly appropriate), the current state of the project is more than worth your time; at the very least you can poke around and take some great selfies.
Museum of Cinematography | Archiwum UMŁ
It may seem unlikely but Łódź is Poland’s answer to Tinseltown. Stop sniggering at the back: having produced directors like Wajda, Polański and Kieślowski the Polish Hollywood has made an undeniable impact on world cinema. The city’s film credentials were given a top class nod in 2017 with Łódź being added to the UNESCO Creative Cities Network as a City of Film.
HISTORY The story starts in 1948, with the foundation of the National Film School. With Warsaw lying in ruins, the capital’s major opera, theatre, and other miscellaneous artist groups found themselves decamping to the nearest large city: Łódź. Suddenly home to Poland’s principal actors, performers and directors, the decision to base the country’s first film school here may seem odd today, but at the time was completely natural. From its early beginnings the school had two distinct departments: film direction and cinematography. Initially the curriculum was limited to simple group productions, but soon films directed by individuals started to become the norm, all filmed using 35mm industry-standard cameras. Among the first batch of students were Andrzej Munk and Andrzej Wajda, the latter scooping an honourary Oscar in 2000 for his career achievements in film. In an era dominated by Big-Brother-is-Watching-style paranoia the school became a haven for the avant-garde, and the small screening rooms would regularly pack out not just with students, but the rank and file proles looking to enjoy the latest European cinema. It was in this liberal climate that the school also proved to be the first place in Poland to host jazz jam sessions, officially outlawed by the communist authorities. 32
The Wajda generation would go on to shape Polish film with a series of edgy films taking a heavy influence from the Italian neo-realists. The films produced in the late 1950s were in direct opposition to official guidelines, and films like Wajda’s Ashes and Diamonds used screen talents like Zbyszek Cybulski, a charismatic, hot-wire actor often labelled ‘The Polish James Dean.’ Roman Polański entered the school in 1954, and four years later propelled the school to international fame when he won an award at Expo 58 (The 1958 Brussels World’s Fair) for his film Two Men and a Cupboard. Alas the golden years soon proved to be numbered. The late 1960s saw several anti-Zionist actions launched by the government, and as a result the school lost several of its rising stars in the Jewish exodus that followed – including rector Jerzy Toeplitz, who would later become the cofounder of Australia’s first film school. The film school soon regained its balance however, and has since produced luminaries such as Krzysztof Kieślowski, cameraman Slawomir Idziak and Krzysztof Zanussi. Though the school itself isn’t open to tourists, visiting film buffs have two primary points of interest: firstly the Museum of Cinematography and secondly the Łódź Walk of Fame - a collection of star shaped plaques right outside the Grand Hotel on Piotrkowska honouring the greatest talents in Polish cinema.
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Hollyłódź ŁÓDŹ WALK OF FAME Borrowing the idea from the Hollywood Walk of Fame, Łódź created its own strip of sidewalk featuring over 65 star-shaped plaques honouring the best of Polish cinema (can a giant Hollywoodesque “Łódź” sign be far off?). The alley of stars (Aleja Gwiazd w Łódzi) was the brainchild of actor Jan Machulski who proposed the idea in 1996, and was realised by artist Andrzej Pągowski - the first star was unveiled on 28 May 1998 to actor Andrzej Seweryn. Located in front of the Grand Hotel, the stars on the east side contain the names of Directors and Cameramen, and the west side the names of actors. The alley includes stars for Roman Polański, Jerzy Kawalerowicz and Pola Negri. QJ‑11, ul. Piotrkowska. ŁÓDŹ FILM SCHOOL There isn’t much you can do other than stand outside the gates and gawk, but the ‘Leon Schiller National Higher School of Film, Television & Theatre’ (as it’s technically called) is where Hollyłódź was born, and since it’s right next door to the Museum of Cinematography it’s worth a casual walk past. Students still stream in and out of the campus, and you might catch a glimpse of the next Kieślowski. QM‑14, ul. Targowa 61/63, tel. (+48) 42 634 58 00, www.filmschool.lodz.pl. MUSEUM OF CINEMATOGRAPHY Please note, the museum is currently closed and undergoing renovation until mid-2020. The cinema and educational areas, however, are still open. Check their site for the latest info! Opened in 1986 inside Karol Scheibler’s extraordinary 19th-century palace which in itself is a dream, featuring room upon room of delights, including the city’s first electric lift, some beautiful tiled stoves, a Turkish smoking room and many other treats besides. Built in 1856 to serve as residence for industrialist fat cat Scheibler the palace contains interiors designed in Venice, Berlin and Dresden, including ceramic tiled stoves and dramatic oak panelling. Even if film is not your scene, this place deserves visiting just to see how the other half once lived. QM‑13, Pl. Zwycięstwa 1, tel. (+48) 42 203 22 36, www. kinomuzeum.pl. Open 11:00-18:00; Tue 10:00-17:00; Wed, Fri 09:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admission 10/7zł. Tue free for permanent exhibits.
Łódź – Walk of Fame.
FAMOUS ALUMNI KRZYSZTOF KIEŚLOWSKI Rejected twice by the Łódź Film School, Krzysztof Kieślowski finally landed a spot on his third attempt and spent his tenure from 1964-1968 focused on documentary filmmaking. Much of his work tended to focus on everyday life in Poland and the lives of average citizens, including Workers ’71, which featured workers talking about the mass strikes of 1970. Yet fictional filmmaking, which he transitioned to in the mid-1970s, is what made his name. Personnel, his first feature film, earned him a top prize at the Mannheim Film Festival, and he followed up with movies like The Scar, Camera Buff, Blind Chance and The Decalogue. However, his biggest success came with the Three Colours trilogy, a series of French/Polish films released in 1993 and 1994 that Kieślowski directed and co-wrote. The trilogy netted Kieslowski heaps of recognition, including multiple Academy Award nominations and a Palme d’Or nomination at the Cannes Film Festival. Kieślowski died in 1996 and is buried in Warsaw’s famed Powązki Cemetery. ROMAN POLAŃSKI Many people know director Roman Polański more for his personal life – including a marriage to Manson Family victim Sharon Tate and his evasion of charges in the United States for unlawful sex with a minor – than for his body of work. But Polański has consistently churned out successful movies following his stint at the Łódź Film School, and his first feature film, Knife in the Water, was nominated for an Academy Award. Polański followed up with box-office successes like Rosemary’s Baby and Chinatown, the latter of which received 11 Academy Award nominations. Polański’s most personal work came in 2002 with The Pianist, which told the story of Polish Jew Władyslaw Szpilman, whose escape from the Warsaw Ghetto closely paralleled Polański’s own experience surviving the Kraków Ghetto. The film, which premiered in Warsaw, was nominated for 11 Academy Awards and earned Polański a nod as Best Director and the Palme d’Or at the Cannes Film Festival. ANDRZEJ WAJDA Director Andrzej Wajda, 85, has a length filmography to match his age. Four of his films – The Promised Land, The Maids of Wilko, Man of Iron and Katyń – were nominated for Academy Awards, and Wajda himself received an honorary lifetime achievement Oscar in 2000. Many of his films focus on war, which makes sense considering Wajda’s background: his father, a Polish cavalry officer, was murdered by the Soviets in 1940 during the Katyń massacre. Wajda tackled the painful topic in his 2007 film Katyń, which tells the story of the massacre through the eyes of the mothers, daughters and wives of the executed soldiers.
© M. Kawczyński
Jewish Łódź resettled in a separate ghetto in Bałuty. After two months of transition the area was sealed on April 30, 1940, following the completion of a barbed wire wall surrounding the area. No one except a few authorised officials could get in or out, and approaching the wall from either side brought instant death from a guard’s bullet.
One of three bridges in the former Litzmannstadt Ghetto (p.35).
By the time Hitler launched his depraved campaign to expand Germany’s borders, the Jewish population of Łódź stood at 233,000 – approximately one-third of the town’s inhabitants, and a figure only surpassed by the capital, Warsaw. To trace the beginnings of Łódź’s Jewish heritage one must go back to the mid-18th century, a time when Łódź was little more than a sleepy hamlet. A census taken in 1793 noted the presence of eleven Jews out of a population that numbered 190. By the 1840s over onefifth of the city’s population was Jewish, and this would grow once more when in 1862 laws requiring Jews to live in the north of the city were repealed. Regardless, most Jews remained based around the Bałuty area (G-3) where cultural and religious life thrived; in the years leading up to the war Łódź could count 80 prayer houses, 31 Jewish primary schools, at least five newspapers and numerous theatre and exhibition spaces. This world came crashing down on September 1, 1939, when the Nazis launched their invasion of Poland. Within eight days the city’s streets reverberated with the sound of jackboots, the triumphant Nazis greeted as heroes and liberators by the ethnic Germans of Łódź. Almost immediately the Nazis set about imposing restrictions on the Jews: on September 18th a decree was issued prohibiting the withdrawal of more than 250zł per week from bank accounts, and over the course of the next month Jewish businesses were forcibly signed over to the Germans. Persecution gathered pace following Himmler’s visit on October 28 – in the week that followed the city’s main artery, ul. Piotrkowska, was made off-limits to Jews, and scores of intellectuals were rounded up before being executed in the Łagiewnicki Forest (G-1). Then, on November 9, the decision was taken to absorb Łódź into the Reich, thereby leaving it under the command of committed Nazi Artur Greiser. The terror escalated yet further, and within days synagogues were alight and bodies hanging in the street. On November 14 a curfew was imposed on Jews, and for the first time anywhere in the Third Reich Jews were compelled to wear a Star of David on their arm – failure to do so was punishable by death. The New Year brought with it a fresh set of trials. On February 8, 1940, newspapers broke the news that Jews would be 34
Conditions inside the ghetto were poor - Jews lived an average 3.5 people to a room - though not nearly as bad as in the smaller and more crowded Warsaw or Krakow ghettos. Jews were also left more or less in peace for the early months of the ghetto’s existence, after the Nazis appointed Chaim Mordechai Rumkowski – a prominent Jewish businessman – to run the ghetto on their behalf. He was given the pompous title Judenälteste (Elder of the Jews) and Rumkowski remains a controversial figure to this day. For a start few people know why he in particular was chosen by the Nazis to run the ghetto, and whispers seem to indicate he either bought or scammed his way into the position. Yet he began well: he tried to preserve as much normality as possible, setting up schools, a bureaucracy, printing ghetto money (which bore his image) and constructing a rudimentary sewage system. He also convinced the Germans to provide raw materials for the ghetto’s factories: the goods made at these factories were then bartered back to the Germans in exchange for food. Yet the food was never enough for the 230,000 ghetto inhabitants, and people quickly began dying of malnutrition and disease. Worse was to come, however: in January 1942 deportations to the death camps began. Over the next three years around 200,000 Jews left the ghetto for the death camps. As the years and selections continued Rumkowski grew more maniacal; he saw the only way for survival to be the creation of a tireless, indispensable workforce. Those who couldn’t work were nothing but a drain on the meagre food reserves. And so it was that Rumkowski entered folklore in 1942 for imploring his people to surrender their children to the Germans. No other ghetto in the Third Reich survived as long as the one in Łódź, but ultimately Rumkowski’s spurious efforts to ensure survival were to prove futile. In May 1944 Heinrich Himmler ordered the liquidation of the Łódź Ghetto, and over the course of the next few months the last 77,000 Jews were loaded into cattle waggons and sent to the gas chambers of Chełmno, Nerem and Auschwitz. Rumkowski left on the penultimate transport to Auschwitz, and according to some accounts was burned alive in a crematorium by workers who had recognised him. Historical records suggest that 5,000 - 12,000 ghetto habitants survived to see the end of the war. POST WAR JEWISH ŁÓDŹ Many Jews who survived the Holocaust descended on Łódź at the end of the war and a new, thriving community sprang up. Though there were two major waves of statesponsored emigration to Israel (in 1948 and 1957-8) there remains a thriving Jewish community of around 5,000
THE GHETTO The Łódź ghetto was one of the largest in Nazi-controlled Europe. It stretched over much of the north-central Bałuty district, comprising the area north of Staromiejski Park (J-8), and out as far as the Jewish Cemetery (O-3). The area was chosen as most of the city’s Jews already lived here. The Łódź Ghetto is also commonly known as the Litzmannstadt Ghetto – on May 5, 1940 the city of Łódź was renamed ‘Litzmannstadt’ in honour of the German general who (unsuccessfully) attempted to occupy Łódź in World War I. TRACES OF THE GHETTO The former ghetto area is today covered with Socialist Realist leftovers, as well as swathes of buildings that seemingly haven’t seen a lick of paint since the Germans left. On the plus side, the intrepid explorer will be rewarded by a moving trip back in time. It’s worth bearing in mind you will be covering a distance of approximately 10km. While it is often suggested to start at Bałucki Rynek (p.37) before concluding your tour at Radegast Station (p.36) - a logical route for those who wish to follow the chronological history of the ghetto - it’s certainly not the most practical. Radegast is in the middle of nowhere, so to get the most out of your day
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Former Jewish Ghetto Jewish Łódź Walking Route
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we suggest starting here. In front of Staromiejski Park on ul. Ogrodowa (J-8), catch bus no. 59 from stop ‘Ogrodowa - Nowomiejska’ and travel 20 mins to ‘Inflancka Zagajnikowa’, with Radegast just 200m north. The bus takes you through the district of Bałuty, giving you a feel for the area - this is similar to the route you will follow during the tour, and handy if you get tired; just jump back on the bus and continue with the tour or return to the centre. Alternatively, take Bus 51A or 61 in front of Łódź Fabryczna Train Station (p.16) at stop ‘Dw. Łódź Fabryczna’ travelling 15 min to the Jewish Cemetery (p.36) to stop ‘Strykowska - Inflancka’. Once there, walk north along ul. Strykowska and turn left onto ul. Inflancka (crossing the road). Keep right until you see signs to Radegast.
USEFUL CONTACTS JEWISH COMMUNITY CENTRE & SYNAGOGUE Open for prayer and religious services plus a number of other services provided. The Jewish Information Office on site can help you find information about your Jewish roots in Łódź, how to find a family grave, or how to contact the rabbi, find out about times for Shabbat prayers and meals, or simply find about events being organised by the Jewish community in the city, which all are welcome to attend.QK‑8, ul. Pomorska 18, tel. (+48) 42 633 51 56, www.kehilalodz.com. Open 09:00-15:00; Fri 09:00-13:00; closed Sat, Sun. 35
Jewish Łódź Poznański). Less ceremonious was the burial of the 45,000 or so Jews who died in the ghetto – you’ll find them interred in the so-called ‘Ghetto Field’ in the south of the cemetery. We recommend you pick up ‘The Children of Bałuty’ mural map from the ticket office. As you exit, continue down Zmienna as it curves around the cemetery onto ul. Bracka and onward to ul. Przemysłowa.QO‑3, ul. Bracka/ul. Zmienna, tel. (+48) 42 656 70 19, www. jewishlodzcemetery.org. Open 09:00-15:00; Fri 09:0013:00; closed Sat. Admission 10/8zł, children under 7 free.
Photo: M.Kawczyński, Courtesy of Łódź City Council
1 RADEGAST STATION
Radegast Station, from where as many 200,000 Łódź Jews left for the death camps of Chełmno and Auschwitz, has been thoughtfully restored as a place of remembrance. Three original Deutsche Reisebahn cattle trucks stand poignantly at the station’s platform with their doors open. Elsewhere there are large signposts, in the shape of headstones, denoting the destinations of the trains which left here: Stutthof, Ravensbruck, Chełmno, Auschwitz. There are now two permanent exhibitions in the museum: “Litzmannstad Getto 1940-1944” and “Kufer Rodziny Schwarz” and one temporary exhibintion “Our Stolen Childhood 1939-1945” about martyrdom of kids in Łódź. Continue along the alley to see some poignant murals of children (you’ll see more later at stop no. 3) from the Jewish ghetto before returning in the direction of Doły tram stop as it is near here you will enter the Jewish Cemetery.QN‑2, Al. Pamięci Ofiar Litzmannstadt Getto 12, tel. (+48) 42 291 36 27, www.muzeumtradycji.pl. Open 11:00-18:00; Wed, Thu, Sat 10:00-16:00; closed Fri. Exhibits can be seen one hour before closing. Closed Fri. Admission free. For groups of 10+ (30 max) guided tours in English are 150zł (210zł including workshop). Please book in advance by calling (+48) 42 291 36 27 or (+48) 795 41 20 02. 2 JEWISH CEMETERY Approaching Doły tram stop, walk down ul. Zmienna, which leads straight to the largest Jewish cemetery in Europe, holding 180,000 graves, with many laid to rest inside ostentatious tombs that are works of art (including the biggest Jewish mausoleum belonging to Israel
Courtesy of Łódź City Council
3 THE CHILDREN OF BAŁUTY
The Children of Bałuty (Dzieci Bałut) records, in mural form, the real images of children that were interned within the children’s camps during WWII in the district of Bałuty, around ul. Przemysłowa. All confined within the Jewish Ghetto territory, the separate subcamps were for, respectively, Jewish, Polish and Roma children. Between 05-12 September 1942, 15,681 people - ill, old and the majority of the children were deported to, and murdered, in the Kulmhof camp (in Chełm). The murals are found in many locations around the former ghetto and can be found using the map you picked up at the Jewish Cemetery. Now get back to ul. Bracka and continue walking toward the park. The Child Martyrs Monument can be found in Park Szarych Szeregów dedicated to the 1,600 children who were processed through the camp. Head through the park and along ul. Głowackiego to reach ul. Wojska Polskiego, and cross to reach the park ahead.QN‑5, ul. Przemysłowa 12. 4 SURVIVORS’ PARK The Survivor’s Park (Park Ocalałych) is an essential part of Bałuty. The Marek Eldelman Dialogue Center is located here, which promotes a secular approach to teaching Łódź’s multiethnic history, along with teaching the virtues of tolerance. The park is also home to the monuments to Jan Karski, and the nearby monument to the Righteous Among the Nations, commemorating Poles who helped save Jewish lives during WW2. Head back to where you entered to continue down ul. Wojska Polskiego, then turn left and walk to ul. Franciszkańska (along the way you’ll see more murals of the children of Bałuty), then take a right onto ul. Wolborska. Walk along the park’s edge until you see a monument.QM‑6, Park Ocalałych. 5 DECALOGUE MONUMENT This monument is appropriately placed in Staromiejski Park at the point where two former synagogues were located: Łódź’s original ‘Old Synagogue’ and later the Alte Szil Synagogue. Unveiled in 1995, the monument shows Moses holding the tablet of the Ten Commandments and was designed by Kazimierz Gustaw Zemła. Built in 1809,
Jewish Łódź the Old Synagogue was the first wooden synagogue in Łódź, but by 1854 services were ceased due to fears the building would collapse. By 1871 the new concrete synagogue Alte Szil was built on the same ground and was considered one of the greatest synagogues in Poland. Sadly, but hardly surprising, the Nazis robbed and burned Alte Szil in November 1939.QJ‑8, Park Staromiejski near ul. Wolborska 20. 6 THE GHETTO BRIDGES Continue onward until you get to the corner of the park and ul. Zgierska/ul. Podręczna. The ghetto entirely surrounded Łódź’s major market, Bałucki Rynek (to the north), which the Nazis were keen to keep open. To achieve this the Nazis sealed off the market and its access roads, allowing traffic to come and go without entering the ghetto. In effect this created two separate ghettos. These were split by the market at ul. Zgierska, and linked by three bridges: two ran over ul. Zgierska and another linked the divided street of ul. Zachodnia. One bridge was where you stand now.QJ‑7, Crossing of ul. Zgierska and ul. Podrzeczna. 7 THE RED HOUSE
Head back to ul. Podręczna 2, at Stary Rynek, turn left and walk straight until you get to ul. Kościelna 8/10. Few addresses inspired as much fear in the ghetto as this, known as the ‘Red House,’ it was commandeered by the Kripo (Criminal Police) as a headquarters to combat smuggling. In reality it was allowed to turn into a brutal interrogation centre. Today the plaque outside is the only reminder of the sinister purpose the building once served. QJ‑7, ul. Kościelna 8/10, tel. (+48) 42 657 02 37. 8 CHURCH OF THE ASSUMPTION OF OUR BLESSED MARY Completed in 1897 this red brick neo-gothic masterpiece saw its fair share of hard times during the ghetto years. In 1942 it was used as a warehouse to store the clothes of those gassed in Chełmno and Nerem, after which it became a feather factory employing slave Jewish labour. QJ‑7, ul. Kościelna 8/10, tel. (+48) 42 657 02 37, www. mariacka-lodz.com.pl. Open during mass only or by prior arrangement. 9 ZACHODNIA STREET Head along ul. Lutomierska and turn right onto ul. Zachodnia. The building found at no.14 is where Rumkowski made his notorious speech calling for mothers and fathers to hand their children over for ‘transportation.’ The area was a hotbed for ghetto activity, and it was in its incarnation as Hamburgerstrasse that it touted a Department of Housing, Employment Office, Juvenile Court and a Department of Economics as well as the ghetto fire brigade and the HQ of the Jewish Police, the
latter being a particularly zealous organisation whose 1,000 members were frequently prone to corruption. None of these buildings survived the post-war bulldozers, though a stone tablet marks the arrival spot of 1,000 Jews from Hamburg in 1941.QI‑7, ul. Zachodnia 14. 10 OLD JEWISH CEMETERY After admiring the Stalin-era monstrosities that were hastily built on top of the former Jewish area, cross the street and heading down ul. Bazarowa you’ll note an overgrown triangle of parkland. Towards the far pointed end is a small stone set in the grass, its inscription missing. This marks the spot of the ghetto gallows. From there head up ul. Rybna before turning in at ul. Rybna 11A. Walk past the basketball court, and you’ll once more find a stone with a missing plaque. This is all that is left to denote that the area was once Łódź’s oldest Jewish cemetery. Established in 1811, and operating until 1892, the cemetery was the final resting place for over 13,000 people. During the Holocaust the tombs were ripped up and used for paving stones, though the bodies remained underground.QI‑7, ul. Rybna 11A. 11 SCHUPO AND GESTAPO HQ While it might be hard to picture when you’re staring at the building today, this was once the home of the Gestapo and the Schupo, which kept tight and merciless control over the ghetto. Several stories recall how German sentries would delight in shooting at Jews for sport, as a June 1941 order allowed officers to fire without warning at any Jew trying to leave the ghetto. A plaque erected here on the 40th anniversary of the ghetto liquidation commemorates the fate of the 200,000 Jews and 20,000 gypsies.QJ‑6, ul. Limanowskiego 1. 12 BAŁUCKI RYNEK Right across the street is Bałucki Rynek. Described by Oskar Singer as the “heart and brains of the ghetto,” this was where all the principle offices of the ghetto administration were based – including Rumkowski’s custom-made barracks. It was also the logistics hub of the whole area. The square was separated from the rest of the ghetto and could only be accessed with a special pass.QJ‑6, Rynek Bałucki. 13 REICHER SYNAGOGUE And now for the final destination, which is actually in the city centre. Head back down ul. Zgierska straight ahead to ul. Piotrkowska. Take the first left onto ul. Rewolucji 1905 and head to no. 28. Through the gate is the oldest surviving synagogue in the city, built between 1895 and 1900 by the Reicher family foundation, it only survived the Second World War because it was used for storing salt. A plaque on the east wall commemorates the synagogue’s founder who starved to death in the Łódź Ghetto. The Nissenbaum and Lauder foundations renovated the shrine in 1989. Religious services are no longer held here.QK‑9, ul. Rewolucji 1905r. 28, tel. (+48) 42 633 51 56, www. jewishlodz.org.pl. Open by prior arrangement with Jewish Community.
Artur Rubenstein mural on ul. Siekniewicza 18 (K-11)
leading street artists to leave their permanent mark on the city, so you can see work by Brazilian twins Os Gemeos, the Chinese artist DALeast and many other international stars of the scene. If you are keen to see all the murals the foundation has supported, a great way of doing this is to contact them via the UrbanForms.org and ask about their private bus tours of the city’s fabulous mural art. At any rate, those with an interest in street art will have little trouble tracking it down in Łódź, and we’re making it even easier. In addition to cataloguing and GPSing street art addresses throughout the city on our website, we’ve also marked each place with a spray can symbol on the maps in the back of our print guide, so you can literally use them to give yourself a tour of Łódź’s urban art. As for online, we’ve even listed old pieces of street art to keep you informed if they still exist or not, to save you time from visiting a site, only to discover that once fantastic mural has been painted over, or worse, the building it was on is
The growth of street art in Poland is not difficult to put into historical context as the country has a great tradition of using urban wall space for all manner of creative ideas. The 1960s-70s saw vast wall spaces used for advertising communist-era state-run companies and surviving examples are now revered as important graphic design visions of the time. A relatively well preserved graphic painting of a giant butterfly advertising the state-run Pewex shops (where imported goods could be purchased with US dollars) can be found at ul. Sienkiewicza 21 (K-11). Over the last few years the somewhat gloomy streets of Łódź have come to life with the addition of numerous enormous and brightly-coloured murals. The project to turn Łódź into an open-air permanent art gallery was initiated by the Urban Forms Foundation back in 2009 and their aim is to improve the current image of Łódź through supporting and promoting independent artistic projects in the city’s public spaces. With the support of city council, the Foundation has so far overseen the completion of over 40 large scale murals by some of Poland’s classiest street artists, like local heroes the Etam Crew and the Gdynia-born painter M-City and Silesia‘s Raspazjan and Mona Tusz. They have also invited some of the world’s
Tomasz Górnicki statue
M-City Mural on ul. Tuwima 16 (K-12)
gone (if you find that piece has been painted over since we’ve last been, please, do let us know)! Wandering around the city you are bound to stumble across some rather fine and less ‘in your face’ little creative acts like the painted and stencilled gas and electricity boxes which are dotted around town. They are frequently changed and too many to mention, but keep your eyes peeled, you’ll no doubt see plenty on your travels around Łódź.
MURALS BIRD MURAL Created by Portuguese artist Bordalo II in 2015 for the Urban Forms project. The mural depicts a bird (a swift, to be precise) made of old junk, from car parts to old house furniture, to emphasise the damage caused to the environment by man and the subsequent impact on endangering animal species of the world - including the swift population.QL‑13, ul. Kilińskiego 127. SILENCE Created using half a tonne of nails by Wrocław artist Łukasz Berger in 2015, Cisza (Silence), is a reflection upon communication between people and the reality that they live in. Another piece by the artist is found in Katowice and titled ‘SZUM’ (Noise).QI‑10, ul. Wólczańska 13.
Museums Street Art
DALeast mural on ul. Łąkowa 10 (H-13) l
DALEAST DEER MURAL Created by Chinese artist DALeast in 2014 for the Urban Forms project. The artist is known to use fine lines to create forms usually depicting scenes from nature. This awesome piece shows an observant deer, its body made up of twigs; like a living wicker animal. The mural is so cool, we once used an image of it for one of our covers (issue 37, 2018). QH‑13, ul. Łąkowa 10.
Woman in Bath mural on ul. Pomorska 67 (M-8)
at some sheets of artwork. A nice touch for an otherwise empty wall above a car park - but that’s the point, right? You get 2-for-1 with this address as on the other side of the same building you have another mural to view - by Spanish artist Borondo.QM‑8, ul. Pomorska 67.
STREET ART INSTALLATION
Madame Chicken mural on Al. Politechniki 16 (J-18)
MADAME CHICKEN Created by the Etam Cru in 2012 for the Urban Forms project it depicts an old lady holding a chicken. Such a simple idea, but pleasant to look at. This is defeinitely one of our favourite murals in the city. Don’t miss out on the other mural on the other side of the building by Spanish artist ARYZ.QJ‑18, Al. Politechniki 16. WOMAN IN BATH Created by Spanish artist Aryz in 2014 for the Urban Forms project, you’ll most likely see this piece if you’re on way to the area of the former Jewish Ghetto. Serene in its depiction of a bathing woman, it shows her gazing
INAPPROPRIATE WEIGHT This 4m high work, called Ciężar niewłaściwy (Inappropriate Weight) is located outside of Łódź Fabryczna Train Station, at the walkway from the station to go to EC1 centre, which looms impressively in the background. The combination of the fantastic statue, Fabryczna and EC1 really emphasise the changing fortunes of the city. The statue and was created in 2017 by artist and sculptor Tomasz Górnicki and artist Chazme (both from Warsaw) for project ‘UNIQA art Łódź’. The work is made up of 3 elements: metal, concrete and acrylic. The statue element shows a statue of a man supported on metal frames, rushing as he’s late for his train. The base of the monument is now rusted (which was the intended effect!).QM‑11, Łódź Fabryczna Train Station. RÓŻA’S PASSAGE See p.23 for details about one of Poland’s most impressive street art pieces!QJ‑9, ul. Piotrkowska 3. Courtyard open daily 08:00-22:00. Admission free. 39
Museums CENTRAL MUSEUM OF TEXTILES IN ŁÓDŹ See p.27.QK‑17, ul. Piotrkowska 282, www.cmwl.pl. U CENTRE FOR SCIENCE & TECHNOLOGY EC1 See p.31.QL‑11, ul. Targowa 1/3 (entrance from ul. Wojciecha Jerzego Hasa), www.ec1lodz.pl. KSIĘŻY MŁYN & HERBST PALACE See p.29.QO‑15, ul. Tymienieckiego 25A.
MUSEUM OF ARCHAEOLOGY & ETHNOGRAPHY Established in 1931 and one of the leading research institutions of its kind in the country, this charming little museum is packed with intricately carved swords and muskets, archaeological finds from Palaeolithic Poland including flint axes, pots and the customary skeleton in a glass case, charming models of river settlements from the 3rd century and recreations of 19th-century peasant houses. If the idea of being followed by the staff doesn’t worry you in the least then this museum can’t come recommended highly enough.The other branch of the museum Łęczycka Zagroda Chłopska - Zagroda is closed for winter but will re-open in April, open daily 10:00-18:00 (closed Mon). Admission 9/6zł.QJ‑9, Pl. Wolności 14, tel.MS2 - art 2.0! (+48) 42 632 84 40, www.maie.lodz.pl. Open 10:0017:00; closed Mon. Admission 9/6zł, Tue free. N
MS2 - art 2.0! | Photo: P. Tomczyk
TOURIST INFORMATION ŁÓDŹ TOURISM ORGANISATION The English, German and Russian speaking staff will provide you with maps and guides in a number of different languages. An internal PC offers access to Łódź tourism sites.QJ‑10, ul. Piotrkowska 28, tel. (+48) 42 208 81 81/(+48) 722 00 53 14, www.lodz. travel/en. Open 09:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-18:00; Sun 10:00-15:00. U
MUSEUM OF ART IN ŁÓDŹ - MS¹ This superb museum and gallery features a worthy modern art exhibition - called Open Composition - courtesy of progressive artists from a number of countries, including Poland. Fri enter for free.QI‑10, ul. Więckowskiego 36, tel. (+48) 42 633 97 90, www. msl.org.pl. Open 11:00-19:00; Tue 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission to permanent exhibitions 10/5zł, students under 26 pay just 1zł. Fri is free for all exhibits. Combined tickets available for MS1, MS2 and Herbst Palace for 30/20zł. MUSEUM OF ART IN ŁÓDŹ- MS² See p.44.QI‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 19, www.msl.org.pl.
SOCIETY OF FRIENDS OF OLD ŁÓDŹ A volunteer organisation offering brochures about Łódź in Polish and English but also providing tourist information.QJ‑7, Stary Rynek 1, tel. (+48) 42 661 46 66. Open 13:00-17:00; closed Sat, Sun. TOURIST INFORMATION POINT Tourist information is available at the heart of the Manufaktura complex in a specially built hut. Find guides, maps, souvenirs and lots of information from friendly English and Russian speaking staff.QI‑8, ul. Drewnowska 58 (Rynek), tel. (+48) 695 13 11 13, www.lodzkie.travel. Open 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:0021:00. The impressive MS1 - Museum of Art in Łódź
Museums MUSEUM OF CINEMATOGRAPHY Please note, the museum is currently closed and undergoing renovation until mid-2020. The cinema and educational areas, however, are still open. Check their site for the latest info! QM‑13, Pl. Zwycięstwa 1, tel. (+48) 42 203 22 36, www.kinomuzeum.pl. Open 11:00-18:00; Tue 10:00-17:00; Wed, Fri 09:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admission 10/7zł. Tue free for permanent exhibits. MUSEUM OF THE CITY OF ŁÓDŹ See p.44.QI‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 15, www.muzeum-lodz.pl.
MUSEUM OF PUBLIC TRANSPORT Ahhh, transport museums, there’s something about them that brings back fond memories of childhood, for they, and indeed this one in Łódź, is a great place for kids (and of course, adults) to visit. Opened in 2006 by the local transport authority (MPK) and a club for local tram enthusiasts, the museum contains models of buses and trams, various paraphernalia, and of course, the highlights - real buses and trams, spanning the history of local transportation well over 100 years! The museum location is fairly central, and is open throughout the week, although closed on Fridays, Sundays and most ! Photo: P. Tomczyk Saturdays - every 2nd and 4th Saturday of the month they are open, so best check their site for details when planning your visit.QN‑10, ul. Wierzbowa 51, tel. (+48) 42 672 12 07, www.muzeum.mpk.lodz.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:0014:00; closed Fri, Sun. Admission 2,40/1,20zł. MUSEUM OF THE FACTORY See p.44.QI‑7, ul. Drewnowska 58, www.muzeumfabryki.pl. MUSEUM OF THE TRADITION OF INDEPENDENCE Set inside a former Tsarist prison your tour begins on the ground floor, where a walk around the former cells allows visitors to glimpse depressing sights like huge, rusty restraints, a pitch-black isolation cell and playing cards and chess sets produced by the inmates. From there the museum is a chronological journey on the “Roads to Independence” experienced in the city, covering the years 1791-1921. The 1905 workers’ revolution is covered in detail, with prisoners letters and presses used to print inflammatory leaflets all on display. There is a new exhibition entitled “The Prison on Długa St. In Łódź from 1885-1953”. Hugely interesting, though the paucity of English-language translations is guaranteed to frustrate.QI‑9, ul. Gdańska 13, tel. (+48) 42 632 71 12, www. muzeumtradycji.pl. Open 09:00-17:00; Thu 11:00-19:00; Fri 10:00-17:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admission free. For groups of 10+ (30 max) guided tours in English are 120zł. Please book in advance by calling. PLANETARIUM EC1 See p.31.QM‑11, ul. Targowa 1/3, www.planetariumec1.pl. VILLA GALLERY/CHIMERA GALLERY QJ‑11, ul. Wólczańska 31/33, tel. (+48) 42 632 79 95, www.mgslodz.pl. Open 11:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 11:0017:00; closed Mon. Tickets 6/4zł. Thu free. N 41
Photo courtesy of Manufaktura
Manufaktura today is the result of Poland’s largest renovation project since the reconstruction of Warsaw’s Old Town in the 1950s (something you can read about in Warsaw In Your Pocket). The history of the site is one of fortunes made and lost, of war, nationalisation and destitution. What you see before you was once a series of factories – all producing various textiles – that were constructed in the latter part of the 19th century. Designed by Hilary Majewski, a graduate of St Petersburg University, the mills were built in a red-brick industrial style, incorporating the occasional Art Nouveau flourish. They were the property of Izrael Poznański, a Jewish merchant who saw the need for high quality textiles on the eastern markets of Russia, Japan and China. As Łódź was at the time the most westerly city in the Russian Empire, Poznański was able to match western textile expertise and industrial practises with limitless access to eastern markets. It was a winning combination - one that made him a fortune and put Łódź on the map.
“Łódź was waking up, the first yelling factory whistle pierced the quiet of the early morning, then in all parts of the city others began to spring up ever more raucously and bawled in hoarse voices like a choir of monstrous roosters crowing their metal throats the call to work. The huge factories, whose long black bulks and slender chimney necks loomed in the darkness, in the fog and rain they were slowly waking up, belching flames of fire, exhaling clouds of smoke.” - Władysław Reymont, The Promised Land 42
The first Manufaktura loom began spinning in 1852. Real growth however came about during the period 18721892, by which time more than 80,000 spindles spread over 12 separate factories were churning out high-quality textiles at a rate unmatched anywhere in Europe at the time. Poznański adored luxury – when asked what style he wished one of his residences to be built in he allegedly declared ‘All of them, I can afford them all!’ The palaces he built for himself all over the city are testament to his fondness for extravagance, but he was also considered a visionary employer. Łódź’s rise to industrial prominence in the second half of the 19th century saw the city transform from a sleepy backwater into a gritty metropolis bursting with red brick factories and a horizon crowned with smoking chimney stacks. As the population exploded suburbs sprang up, including poverty stricken rat mazes like Bałuty and Chojny. The more conscientious factory owners took it on themselves to build tenements to house their workers; Izrael Poznański provided 1,086 apartments for 4,043 people. Designed by Hilary Majewski, one of the architects behind Poznański’s award winning textile factory (it snatched the Bronze Medal at the 1878 World Exhibition in Paris), many of these shadowy housing projects still exist, and exploring their dark courtyards and flaking corridors is like a step back in time. Take a look at how the proletariat used to live by peering into the buildings that stand on ul. Ogrodowa 24 and 26, a couple of which are being renovated.
Manufaktura While his workers may have been squashed into tenements, make no mistake that their boss lived the high life. Poznański had the sort of egocentric, hyper-wealthy lifestyle associated with modern day oligarchs, and his palaces and mansions found around town are testimony to this. His HQ on Ogrodowa 15 was the benchmark of flash, and stacked with priceless treasures and frequently the home of high society functions. Designed by Adolf Seligson the L-shaped structure originally held a 770m2 winter garden topped with a glass roof, as well as landscaped gardens out back. As most other industrialists of the age, Poznański had his residence built right next to his factory, allowing him the opportunity to watch his workforce marching to work each morning. The man died in 1900, wealthy beyond imagination, and the ownership of the company passed to his sons. Poznański is buried in an enormous mausoleum in the Jewish Cemetery (p.36, some say the largest Jewish tomb in the world), a fitting testament to the true king of bling. Manufaktura continued to flourish, with many of its wares being shipped far and wide to new markets in America and the Far East, though the inter-war period marked the start of a decline as Łódź left the Russian empire and became part of Poland, losing most of its eastern markets in the process. Production continued throughout most of World War II though, after which it was nationalised, and renamed Poltex. The emphasis on quality was replaced by an emphasis on quantity, with most of the goods produced here - primarily cotton - being shipped off to the Soviet Union. The death of the Warsaw Pact trading block COMECON left it without any real market, factories closed and production fell. The last textile worker left the plant – by then a rundown, halfderelict wreck - in 1997.
French developer Apsys bought the site in 2000. Work began on transforming the crumbling mills into a multifaceted cultural extravaganza in 2003. The opening of the site on May 17, 2006 was therefore the culmination of more than five years of planning and construction. The results are stunning. The original 19th century brick buildings remain the focal point of the complex, having been entirely renovated: some brick by brick, with only the chimney stacks which once dominated the horizon missing. Director David Lynch was so impressed he shot part of his film, ‘Inland Empire’, on the premises. In all, more than 90,000m2 of red brick buildings have been restored and completely refitted. An equal amount of new buildings – mainly the shopping centre - have gone up alongside, while commie leftovers from the Poltex factory days have been demolished. The restoration of the old factories quite simply has to be seen to be believed. Enter through the Poznański gate, where workers used to file through every day on
their way to the mills, and you’ll arrive at the project’s ground zero: the Rynek (main square). In summer, this place really comes into its element, with a phalanx of beer gardens, an artificial beach and open-air concerts by international names. The natural reaction to Manufaktura is to be staggered; covering an area of 54 football pitches the complex spans, in total, over 90,000m2, and makes use of 45,000 square metres of restored original brickwork, fifty kilometres of electric cables and over a kilometre of metal framework. And what was already impressive on opening day has grown more impressive still. Added over the years has been the award winning Museum of the Factory, Art Museum - ms² which leads the line as one of Poland’s top galleries, and the Experymentarium, easily the finest museum of its genre in the country. Better still, the city has a hotel worthy of its status as one of Poland’s key metropolises. That’s the andel’s and can be found on the Ogrodowa side of the development.
Whoa, here’s a museum that makes science fun, and in a way that rather than ordering you to ‘keep away from the glass’, actively encourages visitors to ‘push’, ‘touch’ and ‘enter.’ The experiments visitors get to play around with are the brainchild of Polish scientists and students, and revolve around ideas of light, sound, anatomy, nature and new discoveries. The space takes up 800m2 of the Manufaktura complex, and also features a wing designated for temporary exhibits from Polish and European institutions. Patrons include Łódź University and the Łódź Technical University. Your visit should take approximately 60 minutes, during which time you’ll wander a large open space filled with exhibitions. Currently the main exhibits are the Experymentarium Exhibition, which includes mad light experiments, a ‘cosmic tunnel’, an area devoted to developing your senses of smell, hearing and touch without using your vision; and a new interactive “Augmented Reality Sandbox”, which allows you to build 3-D topographical maps by shifting some sand in your hands. Always ones to keep on-the-ball, their latest VR gaming zone and Lazer maze are absolutely state of the art fun for the whole family.QI‑8, ul. Drewnowska 58, tel. (+48) 42 633 52 62, www.experymentarium.pl. Open 10:0022:00; Sat 10:00-22:30; Sun 10:00-21:00. Admission 18/15 zł. U 43
Manufaktura MUSEUM OF ART IN ŁÓDŹ- MS² A very impressive space located in a building that once housed a 19th century weaving plant. Home to both temporary exhibitions and an impressive permanent collection entitled “The Art Collection of the XX and XXI Centuries”. The museum is home to more than 400 works of contemporary art and includes artists like Pablo Picasso, Tamás Kaszás and Paul Klee. There’s a constant cycle of cutting edge temporary exhibitions that are usually world class. The permanent collection can also said to be in flux as it is constantly being added to and rearranged by visiting curators. English translations and pamphlets are available plus an art cafe and a cracking bookshop. Fri enter for free.QI‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 19, tel. (+48) 42 634 39 48, www.msl.org.pl. Open 11:0019:00; Tue 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission to permanent exhibits 15/8zł, students 26 and under pay just 1zł. Fri is free for all exhibits. Combined tickets available for MS1, MS2 and Herbst Palace for 30/20zł. MUSEUM OF THE CITY OF ŁÓDŹ Inside the breathtaking Neo-Baroque former residence of Łódź manufacturer Izrael Kalmanowicz Poznański, this museum within a museum, dedicated to the relatively short life and times of Poland’s second city from the end of the 19th century to the outbreak of WWII, knocks you out from the moment you walk through the front door. Jammed full of exhibits tracing the history, people, culture and ups and downs of the city, find recreations of daily life from kitchen interiors to sections of streets. There are many fine examples of silverware and porcelain too, and rooms dedicated to many of the city’s former inhabitants, including Łódź’s unofficial Rubinstein museum (the only one in the world), giving over several rooms to the legendary Jewish pianist. Once this was the only section with English descriptions, but more and more sections are seeing translations added. The Jewish theme is admirably represented in the museum with a new exhibition: The Common Courtyard (Na Wspólnym Podwórku) - showcasing Łódź’s history as a melting-pot of cultures. Thoroughly recommended. QI‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 15, tel. (+48) 42 307 26 57, www.muzeum-lodz.pl. Open 10:00-16:00; Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 12/8zł, temporary exhibits only 7/5zł. Wed free. MUSEUM OF THE FACTORY Of all the museums in Łódź you won’t find any that are better geared towards the foreign visitor. All displays are complemented with thorough English explanations that put the majority of Polish museums to shame. Occupying a second floor space next to Manufaktura’s multiplex cinema this spot is more than just a diversion from your day’s shopping. From the moment you pay your admission fee it’s a trip back in time. This small but perfectly formed museum offers a complete history of the Manufaktura complex, complete with 4 working 44
looms, a steam engine model, various dioramas and even a tiny cinema showing black and white minidocumentaries (15 mins. with English subtitles) of factory scenes. Its packed full of peculiar facts, and a look at the boards reveals untold trivia – for instance, the story behind one of the original architects of the complex, Dawid Rosenthal, who was shot by militant workers back in 1910. The photo montages offer a vivid trip through history, as well as moments of amusement; check the pictures of the factory’s sports teams and bands. Take the trip up to the year-round viewing terrace (an extra 2zł) to get a birds eye view of the factory. Make sure to exit through gift shop, which features some English language books on the subject if you want to read more about this fascinating place. QI‑7, ul. Drewnowska 58, tel. (+48) 42 664 92 93, www.muzeumfabryki.pl. Open 09:00-17:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-17:00; closed Mon. Admission 9/6zł (11/8zł for exhibition and viewing tower). For an English speaking guide reservations must be made two days in advance and will cost 85zł. Guided tours in Polish 35zł. Guided tours included in the price of the tickets Sat, Sun at 13:00 and 16:00 but only in Polish.
SHOPPING The crowning glory of Łódź’s shopping scene is not just another generic shopping centre, but a fantastically restored industrial complex, basking in red brick colours and relfective glass. With over 9,000 m2 of wood flooring the mall is split into four themes – industrial, cinema, design and textile – so as to make navigation easier. Those arriving with their kids in tow should consider dispatching them to the Jupi Park crèche found just off the Rynek. Flagship stores include Leroy Merlin as well as a vast range of brand name clothing stores like Hugo Boss, Hilfiger, H&M, Timberland, TK Maxx and an Adidas superstore. In total over 300 retail units are occupied, with other tenants including the Smyk toy store, EMPiK and EURO RTV AGD. It’s not just mega-brand stores though that are drawing processions of spenders, but a top selection of specialist stores that you’ll be lucky to find elsewhere, let alone under one roof. Outside the main range of shops don’t forego a visit to the craftsman’s alley between the Rynek and the mall; it’s here you’ll find all manner of stores including a cobbler, as well as privately run stores specialising in everything from metalwork to traditional rural-style souvenirs. For a full map of the shopping centre or further info don’t be afraid to approach the English-speaking staff manning the information point at the main entrance to the mall. MANUFAKTURA SHOPPING GALLERY QH‑8, ul. Drewnowska 58, tel. (+48) 42 664 92 89, www. manufaktura.com. Open 10:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-22:30; Sun 10:00-21:00.
Manufaktura ENTERTAINMENT ARENA LASER GAMES Laser-quest style entertainment inside an indoor labyrinth filled with ‘surprises, traps and special effects’. A modernisation has moved the game to the 1st floor next to Experymentarium and upped the space to 350m2.QI‑8, ul. Drewnowska 58, tel. (+48) 42 633 52 62, www.arenalasery.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-22:30; Sun 10:0021:00. Admission 12-29zł. CINEMA CITY A state-of-the-art cinema with all the trimmings - 13 normal screens, one IMAX and one 4DX.QI‑7, ul. Drewnowska 58, tel. (+48) 42 664 64 64, www.cinema-city.pl. Box office open 09:30-22:45. Tickets 16,50-48,50zł. STRATOSFERA CLIMBING CENTRE One of the highest climbing walls in Łódź weighs in at 11m in height, and over 500m2 of climbing space. The walls here can be adjusted to suit the individual, from greenhorn rookie to mountain ace.QI‑8, ul. Drewnowska 58, tel. (+48) 42 633 34 90, www.stratosfera.org. Open 10:0022:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-21:00. Admission 8-30zł.
EAT & DRINK BAWEŁNA Occupying a grand corner spot in the Manufaktura complex, Bawełna serves up hearty doses of quality - mainly Italian dishes at surprisingly good prices. The interior is well fitted out with the de rigueur, neo-industrial/rustic look and the ground level features an open kitchen (shoot me now). Head upstairs to a similarly designed area which appears more spacious, airy and features a nice bar. Try one of their signature cocktails which blends some pretty unique and intriguing concoctions of flavours. They seem to have successfully brought the cool ambience of some of the OFF Piotrkowska venues to the rather plush Manufaktura.QI‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 19A/46, tel. (+48) 42 633 34 44, www.bawelna-lodz. com. Open 11:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-01:00; Sun 11:00-23:45. €€€. T BUBAMARA NEW Before you arrive, it may be a good idea to check you have an extra hole on your belt - there’s a good chance you’re gonna leave here quite stuffed! And here’s why: the menu has plentifully sized meat and veg dishes, seafood, soups and desserts; there’s quite a lot to take in from the menu, with a distinctly European/Balkan flare to the grilled meat options. We chose ribs with the meat just sliding off the bone! A nice setting in the heart of Manufaktura, the interior feels like being at an swankier BBQ and approach to the food is a very modern take on old classics. Good grub. A lunch menu is available with meal options costing just 19.99zł. QI‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 19a, tel. +42 630 88 11, www.bubamara.pl. Open 11:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 11:0023:00. €€. 46
DELIGHT RESTAURANT It’s the best hotel in town, so it’s no surprise the house restaurant is staking a claim as the best eatery around. Set to a neo-industrial background, Delight has a naff name but a chef (Mirosław Jabłoński) who is a star in the making. It’s vast size means empty seats are par for the course, but that’s no reflection on the culinary talent. Expect perfectly presented, edgy cuisine that tastes as good as it looks. They were the only restaurant in Łódź to be awarded 2 points in the Gault & Millau culinary guide. Whether you’re a guest or not, saddle up to their stupendous buffet breakfast Mon-Fri 06:30-10:30 and Sat, Sun 07:00-11:00, and every 1st Sun of the month, the Sunday Brunch Delight buffet from 13:00-16:30.QI‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 17 (Vienna House Andel’s Lodz), tel. (+48) 42 279 16 77, www.viennahouse.com. Open 06:3010:30, 18:00-23:00; Sat 07:00-11:00, 18:00-23:00; Sun 07:00-11:00. €€€. TU SZPULKA A rarity amongst the numerous eateries in the Manufaktura complex - a truly hip and contemporary bistro serving seasonally-inspired Polish fusion dishes in a modern, arty environment. All day breakfasts are a highlight like a classic scramble with french toast or a more fit szpulka light option with cottage cheese and vegetables. The downstairs is pretty much half open kitchen, half seating. The definitions of space seem to blend into each other rather nicely with wooden, glass-fronted cases showing works by artists and designers like photographer/illustrator Blanka Biernat. Also worth noting is a large wall mural by Proembrion (Krzysztof Syruć).QI‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 19A, tel. (+48) 42 634 24 72, www.szpulka-lodz.com. Open 08:00-23:45; Fri 08:0002:00; Sat 09:00-02:00; Sun 09:00-23:45. €€€. WHISKEY IN THE JAR MANUFAKTURA Whiskey in the Jar has now set up shop in Łódź after success in Poznań and Wrocław, and what a great location to make an impact - Manufaktura. If the ‘Rock ‘n’ Roll’, ‘steakhouse’ and images of motorcycle paraphernalia plastered everywhere hasn’t given the game away, then the ‘whiskey’ with an ‘e’ suggests you’re in for an American treat. Once inside, you can be forgiven for thinking the Sons of Anarchy have gone straight and settled in Łódź. The decor is a mixture of old Łódź red brick, street artwork around the theme of rock ‘n’ roll and motorcycle gang culture. It’s hard not to spot the Harley Davidson hanging upside down from the ceiling! Here you’ll find a host of cocktails with funky names, usually containing good ole Bourbon, and served in even funkier jars (what else?!). The food is what we’re here for (kitchen open daily 13:00-23:30), with burgers and steaks drawing us in. The burgers range from classic, Teriyaki, to Veggie. The steaks though, with such great names like ‘Viking’, ‘King’ and ‘Mr. T - T-Bone’ are a delight. Despite such formidable foes like Mr T, where there’s a will to eat, there’s always a way to win!QI‑8, ul. Drewnowska 58B, tel. (+48) 516 13 68 76, www.whiskeyinthejar.pl. Open 11:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-01:00; Sun 11:00-23:00. €€€. TUBE6
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Activities & Leisure
Activities & Experiences If you’re looking for an alternative way to experience the best of what Łódź has to offer, or simply enjoy letting ‘the pros’ organise your time, check out the activities below. More online at iyp.me/polandshop
MANDORIA CITY OF ADVENTURE UPCOMING This is one intriguing place we’re awaiting the arrival of in summer 2020 - a theme park with a 16th century renaissance vibe; the age of discovery! As odd as the concept may sound, it’ll certainly differ from other emerging theme parks! Mandoria will cover 50h, be open all year and contain attractions for all ages, from rollercoasters and other rides, bars and restaurants, all themed, with staff dressed in period costume! It’ll be located in the town of Rzgów, just south of Łódź, easily reachable by national road no.1, and from wider afield by the A1 motorway and S8 Expressway. Get ready to explore.Qul. Dąbrowskiego 1, tel. +48 42 235 26 14, www.mandoria.com. KRÓL KUL
This is for all ye Lebowskis out there. 24 premium modern bowling lanes (max 8 bowlers p/lane) with top of the line digital scoring and pin setting technology. They also have two billiards tables (20zł/h Mon-Thu and 25zł/h Fri-Sun) and a bar that serves up great drinks and hearty snacks to help keep you rolling along. This is a super modern bowling alley, so don’t hesitate dudes and dudettes, go throw some stones!QI‑16, Al. Politechniki 1 (CH Sukcesja), tel. (+48) 600 69 07 30, www.krolkul.pl. Open 10:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-01:00. 49-99zł per lane (depends on the day and time of day). Price of shoe rental included.
Not into mainstream cinema? Then definitely check out Kino Charlie, home of artsy movies shown in two halls fitted with Dolby Stereo. Thankfully, the arthouse cinema scene is alive and kicking in Poland, and this is one of those great venues where not only can you watch great films, but also attend meetings with directors and film students. For those waiting for their screening, a cafe is on sight and a gallery to check out the works of young artists.QK‑15, ul. Piotrkowska 203/205, tel. (+48) 42 636 00 92, www.charlie.pl. Box office open depending on repertoire. Tickets 12-24zł. 48
With shows so vivid, you can almost touch the stars in EC1’s Planetarium (p.29).
Established in 1938 the local zoo features 2,500 animals (350 species), including giraffes, lions, tigers, reptiles and scores of other captivating (-ed) creatures. The zoo features the spectacle of being able to watch animal feeding times (check their site for details as they vary)! The zoo is currently undergoing modernisation which will culminate in late 2020/early 2021 with opening of the new super-modern and gigantic orientarium, featuring animals and fauna from Asia.QC‑13, ul. Konstantynowska 8/10, tel. (+48) 42 639 11 88, www.zoo.lodz.pl. Open 09:00-15:30. Admission 20/15zł.
SPA & HEALTH CLUB IN DOUBLETREE BY HILTON
Traipsing the streets of Łódź can be exhausting, so a visit to the DoubleTree 10th Floor Spa & Health Club is the ideal solution to restore mind, body and spirit. The Spa offers a full range of body treatments. So, go ahead and pamper yourself in this ultramodern Spa & Health Club with a fitness center open 24hrs and a swimming pool open daily 06:00-22:00. The self-operated sauna is available 16:00-22:00, or earlier by prior arrangement.QH‑14, ul. Łąkowa 29 (DoubleTree by Hilton Łódź Hotel), tel. (+48) 42 208 80 07, www.doubletreelodz.pl. The SPA is open everyday 09:00-21:00 (book body treatments or massages in advance).
Boasting 4 indoor pools with several slides and one with a wave machine, including a pool for the kids and three water playgrounds. There are also 9 saunas (ranging from Finnish with music therapy to crystal steam baths and open from 11:00 on Sat, 09:00 on Sun), 6 large Jacuzzis, heated loungers, 6 indoor water slides, a ‘wild river’ ride and an on site restaurant to keep you entertained.QD‑12, Al. Unii Lubelskiej 4, tel. (+48) 42 640 08 00, www.aquapark.lodz.pl. Open 07:00-22:00; Mon, Sat, Sun 09:00-22:00. Prices are varied depending on dates and times. Find out more at their website at www.aquapark.lodz.pl. 49
Łódź’s Best Cafes Łódź has some pretty cool cafes, with the standard well and truly raised high in the last few years. We’ve chosen a handful of our favourites for you, and no matter what your tastes, we’ve got you covered... CHATKA ECH
Touting the most unique design in town this place has a nutty cottage design that features antiques and oddities, a piano guests can play on and a mural by Ryszard Paprocki (he’s a big deal). If that wasn’t enough, they even have Birch trees inside. It’s no wonder it’s a favourite film location for Łódź’s budding film school auteurs. This complex is home to book signings, readings, concerts and exhibitions! To top it all off you’ll find an exhaustive selection of teas/coffee, and they now serve alcohol!QK‑12, ul. Piotrkowska 112 (entrance from Al. Schillera), tel. (+48) 533 21 80 03, www. chatkaech.pl. Open 12:00-21:00. TEL6
HOT AIR CAFE
With such a name, we hoped this place wasn’t going to do as it says on the tin. Luckily, the name is not bravado, but an allusion to Zepellins flying around, and the imagery of coffee machines at work. Other than being drawn to the murals inside by Cyprian Łukasik, the size of the place is striking - quite big for a cafe. But that’s great - there are only a few tables spaced out nicely to allow you and your friends to talk in a relaxing environment, not squashed up for ‘cost effectiveness’.QK‑15, ul. Piotrkowska 217, tel. (+48) 794 94 76 66, www.hotaircafe.pl. Open 09:00-20:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-21:00. UE6
Hands down this is one of the friendliest places we’ve been to in Łódź. It’s refreshing to experience down to earth behaviour in a place that feels like home. On the point of refreshing, popping in for breakfast is a joy - teas, coffees, omelettes, sandwiches and unique desserts, they’re all there (along with much more) and the great thing about the breakfast, it’s available all day, as long as they still have the ingredients! A great location at the northern end of ul. Piotrkowska, just off from Plac Wolnośći.QJ‑8, ul. Pomorska 6, tel. (+48) 509 82 44 24. Open 8:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-18:00; closed Sun. 6i 50
A great down to earth venue with down to earth staff in Owoce i Warzywa.
NOWHERE TO NOWHERE
Go from nowhere to somewhere in this custom motorcycle themed cafe found in the former Księży Młyn (p.29) complex. This place is a treat with its friendly staff - they didn’t mind that we rolled up to their joint in a badass hired city bike as opposed to one with a bit more oomph! The interior feels raw, which suits the old factory complex. The menu has a variety of teas, coffees, vegan cakes and craft beers. There’s also a a motorcycle shop here, selling clothing, helmets and accessories.QO‑14, ul. Księży Młyn 16, tel. (+48) 731 70 38 02, www.nowheretonowhere.pl. Open 11:00-19:00; closed Mon, Tue. B6
OWOCE I WARZYWA KLUBOKAWIARNIA
What can you expect of a cafe-bar called Fruit & Veg? In this case a fantastic spot that incorporates a plywood bar and concrete flooring inside a space filled with retro furniture and double-take artwork provided by minds that are as talented and creative as they are utterly bonkers. Arthouse films, rare Polish beers, trippy sounds and all manner of oddness are found here, all lapped up by a laidback crowd carrying college portfolios and laptops. Pop in for breakfast, basic snacks, tea and coffee. 2nd location on ul. Wojska Polskiego 83.QK‑11, ul. Traugutta 9, tel. (+48) 508 06 19 36. Open 10:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-02:00; Sun 11:00-24:00. THE BRICK COFFEE FACTORY The alternative coffee trend continues to flourish in Łódź and this petite Piotrkowska outpost turns out some of the best jumpin’ java juice around. Whether you appreciate your aeropress, syphon, drip or chemex brewed upside down or not, the talented baristas have all sorts of delicious coffee tricks up their sleeves and are happy to make suggestions when they see you getting lost in their lattes. They keep it simple on the food front though and only offer cakes and cookies to go with your well crafted cuppa. 2nd location on the same street at no. 63.QK‑13, ul. Piotrkowska 136. Open 08:00-20:00; Fri, Sat 08:00-21:00. 6 51
Traditional Polish Dishes
Polish pierogi can conquer any appetite.
Polish food is famous for being simple, hearty and not especially colourful. You simply haven’t had a thorough sampling of it until you’ve tried all the traditional dishes below, all of which can be found at almost any Polish restaurant in town. Smacznego!
Though there is no standard recipe for this hearty stew, ingredients usually include lots of fresh and pickled cabbage, sausage, onion, mushrooms, garlic and whatever else is on hand. In fact, metaphorically bigos translates to ‘big mess,’‘mish-mash’ or ‘confusion’ in Polish. Seasoned with peppercorns, bay leaves, caraway and the kitchen sink, the stew is left to gestate for a few days for full flavour infusion. A Polish restaurant or prospective bride can be fairly measured on the strength of their bigos, so put it to the test.
Translating to ‘little pigeons,’ this favourite dish consists of boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with beef, onion and rice before being baked and served in a tomato or mushroom sauce. Polish legend claims King Kazimierz IV fed his army quinn.anya, flicker.com, CC BY-SA 2.0 gołąbki before a battle against the Teutonic Order, and their unlikely victory has been attributed to the fortifying meal ever since.
© gkrphoto, AdobeStock
© graletta - dollarphotoclub
Pork knuckle or hock, as in pig’s thigh. A true Polish delicacy, the boiled, braised or roasted meat should slip right off the bone, be served with horseradish, and washed down with beer. Go caveman.
Traditional Polish Dishes KOTLET SCHABOWY
Probably the most popular lunch/ supper in Poland is the almighty ‘schabowy’ with mashed potatoes and pickled cabbage, and you can walk into almost restaurant in the country and be assured of its presence on the menu (if the kitchen hasn’t run out of it already). Essentially a breaded and fried pork chop, ‘kotlet schabowy’ is quite similar to Viennese schnitzel, and a solid bet for a cheap, filling, risk-free meal. If you’re awoken on a Saturday or Sunday morning by the sound of profuse banging - that’s the collective sound of every housewife in Poland tenderising the meat for this meal with a spiky mallet. So best mind your manners.
Doughy dumplings traditionally filled with potato (Ruskie), sweet cheese, meat, mushrooms and cabbage, strawberries or plums, though if you nose around you will find plenty of maverick fillings like broccoli, chocolate or liver; the possibilities are truly limitless and they are served almost everywhere in the city.
These greasy, fried potato pancakes are very similar to Jewish latkes, and may be served simply with sour cream, or as a hefty meal smothered in mushroom sauce or goulash. Highly caloric, they’re also a tried and true hangover cure.
Poland has two signature soups: barszcz and żurek. A nourishing beetroot soup, barszcz may be served with potatoes and veggies tossed in, with a croquette or miniature pierogi floating in it, or simply as broth in a mug expressly for drinking (‘barszcz solo’). A recommended alternative to other beverages with any winter meal, we’d be surprised if you can find a bad cup of barszcz anywhere in Kraków. It doesn’t get any more Polish than żurek – a unique sour rye soup with sausage, potatoes and occasionally egg chucked in, and often served in a bread bowl. 53
The taste is as terrific as the presentation in Złoty Imbir (p.56)!
You need to approach the Łódź restaurant scene with an openness and understanding that the gastronomy industry is still quite young. That doesn’t mean there’s not some absolute gems, but you may have to wade through some murky waters to find them. Just to note - the opening hours in Łódź are rather a mere suggestion; don’t be put off if the doors are closed during a slow day but conversely you can expect the chefs and staff to power through regardless of the late hour come a busy night service. SPLURGE Voted one of the 100 best restaurants in Poland, Quale (p.59) was awarded top honours by the prestigious Gault & Millau dining guide. Definitely more upmarket than most, with excellent food to match. Tango (p.56) will give you the best steak in Lodz guaranteed - the luxury does match the pricing. EXOTIC Señoritas (p.61) has recently been catapulted into local fame simply because its food speaks for itself - this one’s definitely for the meat eaters among you. Złoty Imbir (p.56) needs to be checked out, because it fails to do what almost every other ‘Asian’ place in the city does - cause indigestion and guilt. Thankfully. KIDS It’s nice to find good pizza in Łódź, especially when it’s a firm favourite with the kids. Angelo Ristorante (p.60) 54
offers sanctuary with its selection of pizzas, and other Italian favourites too. COUPLES The fantastic Nóż (p.24) is a strong choice for dates as it lacks that uncomfortable snobiness and instead provides inventive menus and inviting interiors. Ato Sushi (p.34) could easily be called the best restaurant in the city and the interactive, playfulness of sushi will always be a cute first dater. LADS Irish Pub’s (p.58) ‘lad-ness’ can be summed up by its Monday beer offers and ridiculous food portions. Surprisingly the quality does match the quantity on most occasions. Whiskey in the Jar’s (p.28) large tables, great food not to mention the frequency of awesome music makes it a great place for guys on the town. LOCAL Try both Gastromachina venues (p.55) if you want a sense of what Polish people are actually eating, and Powidok (p.63) if you want a sense of what Polish people are known for eating. CHEAP Takżetego (p.63), naturally being mainly a pizza joint, produces something rather inexpensive but in this case, hand on heart great. Check out Lepione & Pieczone’s (p.62) selection of pierogi (dumplings) that are cheap as chips.
Restaurants SYMBOL & PRICE KEY 6 Animal friendly
C‑1 Map Coordinate
N Credit cards not accepted
E Live music
U Facilities for the disabled
o Year-round Garden X Smoking room available
€ €€ €€€ €€€€ €€€€€
most mains under 25zł most mains 25-45zł most mains 45-75zł most mains 75-115zł most mains over 115zł
AMERICAN CENTRALNA GASTROMACHINA NEW From the people that brought you the food truck favourite, followed by their first stationary venture, Gastromachina Stacja, their cult status already firmly rooted, they’ve only gone and opened a 2nd stationary venue! Centralna Gastromachina is just two blocks up from the 1st, in the courtyard, and has already been clocking up a fair amount of footfall! We’ve been impressed by the burgers on offer in Stacja (the names are as great as the taste), so what’s new here? Salads and fish feature on the menu, but the draw of Centralna is that meat rules the roost, and it’s in the spacious interior that the giant grill, which is also a smokehouse, allows for some quality food to be made, from steaks and BBQ meats. Just think of the mouth watering possibilities. All this accompanied with a great atmosphere, great cocktails, craft beers and wine. That just leaves us to say: Dang! Try the pork ribs!QJ‑11, ul. Piotrkowska 93, tel. (+48) 577 37 75 60. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. U6 GASTROMACHINA STACJA These guys went and done it! Famous for their Food Truck, Gastromachina Stacja was the long awaited stationary location! Centralised and well designed it has a best-in-town and impressive stance towards burgers. They come up with some weird creations that appear in weekly special form and boast a firm standard when it comes to the classics. Cheesus Christ Superstar hits a spot I didn’t know existed as does MegaMachina if you fancy a Man vs. Food styled challenge. The staff/owners also have a great non-hipster approach to it all, so don’t be intimidated. But remember - MEDIUM/RARE. That is all.QJ‑11, ul. Piotrkowska 89, tel. (+48) 537 03 91 98. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:0020:00. €€. UB6
Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App 55
Restaurants WHISKEY IN THE JAR MANUFAKTURA Whiskey in the Jar has now set up shop in Łódź after success in Poznań and Wrocław, and what a great location to make an impact - Manufaktura. If the ‘Rock ‘n’ Roll’, ‘steakhouse’ and images of motorcycle paraphernalia plastered everywhere hasn’t given the game away, then the ‘whiskey’ with an ‘e’ suggests you’re in for an American treat. Once inside, you can be forgiven for thinking the Sons of Anarchy have gone straight and settled in Łódź. The decor is a mixture of old Łódź red brick, street artwork around the theme of rock ‘n’ roll and motorcycle gang culture. It’s hard not to spot the Harley Davidson hanging upside down from the ceiling! Here you’ll find a host of cocktails with funky names, usually containing good ole Bourbon, and served in even funkier jars (what else?!). The food is what we’re here for (kitchen open daily 13:00-23:30), with burgers and steaks drawing us in. The burgers range from classic, Teriyaki, to Veggie. The steaks though, with such great names like ‘Viking’, ‘King’ and ‘Mr. T - T-Bone’ are a delight. Despite such formidable foes like Mr T, where there’s a will to eat, there’s always a way to win!QI‑8, ul. Drewnowska 58B, tel. (+48) 516 13 68 76, www.whiskeyinthejar.pl. Open 11:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 11:0001:00; Sun 11:00-23:00. €€€. TUBE6
Chinese Restaurant„Złoty Imbir” is located in the very heart of Łódź and is the perfect place for a romantic dinner for two, a family dinner, Chinese Restaurant„Złoty Imbir”, Łódź ul.Sienkiewicza 39, tel.690-516-900, https://www.facebook.com/ZlotyImbir ttps:// om/Zlo yImbir
ARGENTINIAN TANGO ARGENTINO STEAKHOUSE Returning to Łódź from his native Argentina, chef Franco Cambareri vowed to bring a little part of home back with him. His passion for authentic grilled Argentinian steak and love of traditional tango music come together brilliantly in his glamorous little steakhouse. The finest beef is imported directly from Argentina, grilled to perfection and served up with his signature chimichurri sauce. The short menu really emphasises the speciality nature of the restaurant. The interior sticks to a classic look; deep red walls, dark furniture and a collection of tango based artworks/vintage posters brought from home. The cracking Argentinian and Chilean wine list is also unique to the city.QK‑11, ul. Traugutta 14, tel. (+48) 726 29 77 25, www.tangosteakhouse.pl. Open 13:00-22:00; closed Mon. (Children under age 2 aren’t allowed). €€€€. B
ASIAN ATO SUSHI Sushi in Poland is huge and the proportion of restaurants opting for this cuisine makes you wonder how they can all survive. The typically minimalist design in Ato plays host to well-prepared Nigiri, Sashimi, Futomaki and the like. Prices are competitive, but the biggest thing in its favour is the choice of nicely-presented hot dishes such as crispy duck. These and the very tasty ramen with beef soup made our visit all the more worthwhile.QJ‑11, ul. 6 Sierpnia 1/3, tel. (+48) 42 207 99 99, www.atosushi.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€€. T ZŁOTY IMBIR Opening the door to this unassuming little restaurant on a Friday afternoon we were astounded to find it packed! Initial suspicion regarding the two elderly and tough 56
Restaurants looking waiters in black shirts and red bow ties were soon put to rest as they turned out to be that rare breed - old school gents and masters of their profession. Orders were taken quickly and the food arrived after a short wait. Not only was the service brilliant but the food was also some of the best Chinese we have had in a long time; everything was fragrant, well presented and packed with flavour. So popular is this place, they’ve opened up a 2nd floor, great for family and business events, but also for the kids as they have a new play area!QK‑11, ul. Sienkiewicza 39, tel. (+48) 690 51 69 00, www.zlotyimbir.com.pl. Open 13:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-20:00. €€. TU6
BREAKFAST SZPULKA Manufaktura’s hippest bistro serves breakfast of all shapes and sizes everyday from 08:00-12:00 (all day Sat and Sun). Go big with the full french toast, scrambled eggs combo or stay small with their szpulka light option with cottage cheese and vegetables. There is also a’la szpulka with frank sausages, bacon and eggs, as well as eggs Benedict with bacon or salmon, scrambled eggs or savoury omelet. They also have takeaway sandwiches and a huge selection of drinks.QI‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 19A, tel. (+48) 42 634 24 72, www.szpulka-lodz.com. Open 08:00-23:45; Fri 08:0002:00; Sat 09:00-02:00; Sun 09:00-23:45. €.
CZECH CESKY FILM RESTAURANT & PUB Found in the Księży Młyn complex, Cesky Film is a bright and open concept Czech restaurant that takes its name from the film canisters and giant movie stills that make up the decor. It’s an appealing - if random - design, but our eyes were drawn to the five taps of various Cerna Hora beers. After eating Czech goulash and hearty dumplings you’ll consider Polish cuisine as light fare. Live music is available Fri/Sat.QO‑15, ul. Tymienieckiego 25A/3, tel. (+48) 881 40 38 88, www. ceskyfilm.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. €€. TUBE6
INTERNATIONAL AFFOGATO One of the more experimental menus in the city with a menu of the week available Tue-Fri, 13:00-17:00 consisting of soup and a main. They focused a lot of attention and detail on the design of the interiors and the results are certainly impressive – dazzling, light colours, and tables laid out in a spacious room. The food more than holds its own and they most recently were awarded two chefs hats from the prestigious Gault & Millau gastronomic guide. They now have ‘Sunday Dinners’ with the menu being unique on the day, changing every week! Most recommended, not least for a space age toilet that really raises the eyebrows. QK‑13, ul. Piotrkowska 144, tel. (+48) 42 630 03 00, www.affogato.pl. Open 13:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 13:0024:00; Sun 13:00-19:00; closed Mon. €€€. TU6 57
Restaurants DZIKA KACZKA One of the best dining rooms in the city and perfect when trying to clinch that big deal. A country club atmosphere is complimented by ecru coloured walls and wood panelling while bow-tied waiters, soft music and important looking cutlery arrangements generate an upper-crust atmosphere. Head chef Marek Skrętowski is the mastermind behind the menu, and diners can choose from a stunning variety of cracking dishes. Highly recommended.Qul. Sosnowa 1, Zgierz (Stacja Nowa Gdynia Hotel), tel. (+48) 42 714 21 51. Open 12:0022:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. €€€. TU6 FOUR COLORS Located in DoubleTree by Hilton Łódź, this luxurious and stylish restaurant presents an exquisite seasonally changing menu. Every few weeks guests can expect new dishes offered by the excellent kitchen team led by Executive Chef, Jakub Jakubowski. The delectable dishes on offer are a selection of international specialities with a modern Polish twist. Add to this a stunning and informative 100-strong wine list from which the waiting staff will help you choose the perfect wine to match the current flavours of the menu.QH‑14, ul. Łąkowa 29 (DoubleTree by Hilton Łódź Hotel), tel. (+48) 42 208 80 36, www.doubletreelodz.pl. Open 06:30-10:00, 12:3022:30; Sat 07:00-11:00, 12:30-22:00; Sun 07:00-11:00, 12:30-22:00. TU IRISH PUB Irish Pubs have a bad image. The promise of the midlife crisis’ parked up at the bar; and the overuse of Jameson, green and shamrocks. But the food at Irish Pub Łódź forces you to forget it all, as it’s easily some of the best in the city. There’s an elegant, thoughtabout stance towards every one of the dishes including the succulent steaks, which are actually cooked to the temperature you want. The presentation is modern and respectable yet not-snobby. Whether you sit in the garden, or the basement, the attentive staff will make sure you get hold of the good stuff. Guinness available on tap (duh). Opening hours subject to change.QJ‑11, ul. Piotrkowska 77, tel. (+48) 662 15 32 00, www. irishpub.pl. Open 15:00-23:00; Mon 15:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 15:00-02:00; Sun 14:00-22:00. €€€. XTUB E6 MISKA GASTRO BOWLS It’s not often we write about hotel restaurants in their own right, usually preferring to have them as a footnote in hotel texts. Indeed, PURO Hotel Łódź itself is worth raving about, the brand now appearing in Łódź, which is heavily focused on design - even the tiniest of details have been well planned out. It’s in this setting you will find Miska Gastro Bowls, the cuisine focused on oriental dishes served in, you guessed it, bowls. The choice is varied, but also to the point from salads bowls, soups, pastas, mains (including big bowls!) and desserts. Enjoy this reasonably priced 58
Restaurants restaurant during the day, or evenings with its great cocktail and wine lists, but do make sure to just look around at the detail. Relaxing.QI‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 16 (Puro Hotel Łódź), tel. (+48) 42 715 90 00. Open 12:00-23:00. €€. T6 PRZERWA CATERING & DESIGN It’s one of those places, you know - coffee, juices, lunches worth an Instagram, dinners worth 25zł, white/brick walls with wooden tables; it feels very Ctrl+C, Ctrl+V. The size of the area is impressive with advertisement attention put on the possibility for conferences and events - and with the food at Przerwa it would certainly be well catered for. The staff are switched on and the bakers deserve a round of applause - sipping a coffee here now, would I come back? Yes, but in a bigger group. I want to try more, but sitting alone in such a large space is somewhat intimidating. Send help. Thankfully, the staff are happy to arrange parties and meetings beyond the regular hours. QJ‑14, ul. Wólczańska 128/134, tel. (+48) 42 212 33 30, www.przerwa-lodz.com. Open 08:00-17:00; closed Sat, Sun. €€€€. UB6 QUALE RESTAURANT This place is way ahead of what’s expected of this city, culinarily speaking. It’s a bit of a hidden gem (literally), found in the lower level of the building, and was recently voted one of the 100 best restaurants in Poland and awarded high honours by the prestigious Gault & Millau dining guide. The pleasant interior harks back to the interwar period, a perfect setting for business or private meals. We recommend the seasonal tasting menus - a choice of 6 or 8 dishes to really give you a taste of what they have to offer - our preconceptions, taste buds, and flavour profiles were challenged in the best possible way. This is a transformative experience, not just a dinner. We just hope their goose with red cabbage, pumpkin and kale is on offer when you visit - it’s borderline pornographic. Parking is available for guests. QL‑10, ul. Narutowicza 48, tel. (+48) 723 12 31 32, www.qualerestaurant.pl. Open 16:00-22:00; Fri 16:0023:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-19:00. €€€. X RESTAURACJA U KRETSCHMERA Situated in the basement level of the trendy Hotel Tobaco, the restaurant is a stunning and fascinating blend of the building’s past history as a tobacco factory mixed with modern architectural design. The walls are decorated with ‘treasures’ discovered during the restoration of the building - metal plaques, tobacco advertising, plans and photographs from the factory’s 1920’s-40’s heyday. The menu is a well-considered fusion of flavours crafted from the cuisine of the four prevalent nationalities for whom Łódź was home: Polish, German, Russian and Jewish. Dishes are lavish and this is truly exquisite dining in a unique atmosphere.QG‑14, ul. Kopernika 64, tel. (+48) 42 207 07 07, www.hoteltobaco.pl. Open 07:00-10:00, 14:00-22:00. Note that the bar stays open daily until 24:00. €€€. TU 59
ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE EST. 2014 WITH THE HIGHEST QUALITY ARGENTINIAN BEEF GRILLED IN A TRADITIONAL WAY BY A NATIVE ARGENTINEAN
SOTE Modern molecular cooking? In Łódź? It took us by surprise too, especially since this alchemic cuisine has only fairly recently shown up in the capital. But Sote are employing molecular gastronomy at Nobo Hotel’s restaurant with pleasing results, though us naming dishes won’t do you any good since the menu changes regularly (and creatively). The setting is as exacting as the dishes, with red chandeliers and crisp white tablecloths giving off a mod vibe. Breakfast is served 07:00-10:00 and mains from 12:00. Qul. Liściasta 86 / Al. Włókniarzy (NoBo Hotel), tel. (+48) 604 61 37 36. Open 07:00-22:00. €€€. TU6
UL. TRAUGUTTA 14
TEL.: (+48) 726 29 77 25
DECODING THE MENU Since one of the main things you’re likely to be doing while in town is eating, here are a few words you’re likely to encounter on any menu in town. Smacznego! (Enjoy your meal!) śniadania breakfast zupa soup przystawki appetisers dania główne main dishes dodatki side dishes ziemniaki potatoes kapusta cabbage ser cheese chleb bread warzywa vegetables owoce fruit mięso meat kurczak chicken wieprzowina pork wołowina beef ryba fish deser dessert ciasto cake lody ice cream napoje drinks kawa coffee piwo beer 60
ANGELO RISTORANTE It never ceases to amaze us how much this town loves its Italian food, although unlike some other imposters Angelo is the real deal. As soon as you approach the checkered tableclothed tables on the street, the smells of simmering garlic and fresh seafood will start to hit you. The regular menu is short and sweet and includes pasta dishes like squid ink pasta with shrimps and favourites like saddle of lamb. Every Fri-Sun they offer fresh fish and seafood plucked straight from the Mediterranean and trucked straight to your table - this menu is different each week! A nice range of Italian wines start at a very decent 50zł a bottle. In the warmer months, outside seating is available in the summer garden.QJ‑11, ul. 6 Sierpnia 1/3, tel. (+48) 507 55 56 37, www.angelo-lodz.pl. Open 12:0022:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. €€€. T OTWARTE DRZWI A lovely little Italian restaurant tucked away in a well-lookedafter and peaceful courtyard. The young and enthusiastic Polish owners/chefs, Maciek and Konrad, developed their passion for Italian cooking during their travels around the land of La Dolce Vita. The classic menu, featuring authentic pizza and pasta dishes, is kept to a manageable length with most of the products used in the kitchen coming directly from Italy. Otwarte Drzwi also features a proper woodburning pizza oven, a relaxing outdoor area, fine Italian wines and regional Polish beers. They also have daily lunch specials from Mon-Fri 12:00 - 16:00. The whole experience is topped off by the extremely nice and unpretentious owners and staff.QK‑12, ul. Piotrkowska 120, tel. (+48) 502 85 57 79, www.otwarte-drzwi.com. Open 12:0022:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. €€. T6 PRESTO Cooked in a traditional wood fired oven the pizzas in this white-washed trattoria are cheap, fast and a far better alternative to big brand pizza empires. We had the Mafioso – salami, garlic, peppers and chillis – and for once we were not disappointed by a chef skimping on the spices. The topping sauce arrives in a separate jug, allowing you to choose whether or not you wish to drown your pizza in red goo. Also at ul. Maratońska 67/69.QJ‑11, ul. Piotrkowska 67, tel. (+48) 42 630 88 83, www.pizzeriapresto.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. €€. TU
RESTAURACJA ANGELO ul. 6 Sierpnia 1/3 І 90-606 Łódź І tel. 507 555 637 І www.angelo-lodz.pl
JEWISH ANATEWKA Celebrate Łódź’s Jewish heritage inside an atmospheric venue scattered with prayer shawls, menorahs and general bric-a-brac, and don’t forego a visit in the evening, when the live music recitals involve violinists sitting on a chair suspended half way up a wall. A team of flighty waitresses take the orders, and the chef does the rest coming up trumps with a range of traditional Jewish dishes, including rather good goose. The addition of a banqueting hall and VIP rooms now mean that you can dine in private or alternatively at a single table seating 100 people. Opens earlier on occasion and almost always until last customer. QJ‑11, ul. 6 Sierpnia 2/4, tel. (+48) 42 630 36 35, www. anatewka.pl. Open 11:00-24:00. €€. XTE6
MEXICAN SEÑORITAS MEXICAN AMERICAN RESTAURANT & LOUNGE Łódź should be bragging to the whole of Poland about this visionary Mexican/American restaurant and lounge bar. The interior uses traditional, earthy Mexican colours but blends them with contemporary neon lighting and some fantastic murals by local painters Natalia Anna Kalisz and Ewa Żochowska. At the helm is American owner/chef Jeff Unger, a man whose expert knowledge of modern and traditional Mexican/American cuisine means that we find authentic tacos, quesadillas and enchiladas sharing
the menu with startling dishes like grilled steaks that do the trick. Don’t you dare leave until you’ve dabbled in the house margaritas, based around their own infused tequilas. Check out burger Wednesdays with additional burgers added to the menu. Business meetings are also catered for with a separate menu. Ooh.QK‑11, ul. Moniuszki 1A, tel. (+48) 501 67 17 00, www.senoritas. pl. Open 16:00-22:00; Fri 16:00-23:00; Sat 14:00-23:00; closed Mon, Sun. €€€. T
POLISH ARCHEVITA Located inside the modern Arche Residence Łódź which feels like a home from home within a hotel setting, the restaurant branch in the form of ArcheVita has much the same approach. This a good thing, and it’s open to non-guests of the apartments too. They serve breakfasts, lunches and dishes from an a la carte menu formed with hearty Polish cuisine, made only from seasonal and regional ingredients. The formula is simple but it works a treat. The breakfast buffet is available for just 34zł and is a great start to the day. You’ll also be pleased to learn that they also offer services for arranging special occasions and events, all this in a great location, easily reached by public transport and by car (pp.16-18); the surrounding greenery and quiet is something worth admiring!QO‑8, ul. Jana Matejki 11, tel. (+48) 42 208 10 16, www.archeresidencelodz.pl. Open 07:00-22:00. €€. TU 61
Restaurants CHŁOPSKA IZBA The peculiar interior of animal skins, bear traps, and clay walls plays host to an authentic and seriously good Polish meal. The staff are some of the most attentive and professional that you’d find in the city and seemingly proud of the food they lay on the table - as well they should be. Get the mixed plate of pierogi and sirloin steak - treat it almost like Polish tapas. If that’s too small, definitely choose the challenging pork knuckles or their sets, starting from 20zł. For a bigger mental challenge, go for ‘czernina’ (duck blood soup!). The staff will help you choose, and I guarantee you’ll have an authentic taste of good Polish food. Bring pregnancy pants though. QJ‑11, ul. Piotrkowska 65, tel. (+48) 42 630 80 87. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€. 6
MODERN MEXICAN-AMERICAN RESTAURANT & LOUNGE
FATAMORGANA Fatamorgana’s blob on the culinary radar of Łódź has been increasing in size since it opened in 2017. Two young chefs work their magic in the kitchen, with cuisine being a modern mix of French and Polish dishes. The menu changes regularly, depending on the artistic flare and moods of the chefs, so we’d rather not propose a specific dish, only for you to discover it’s no longer available, woops! Regardless, there are usually some tasty soups, meat and fish dishes available. One word of warning, the menu is in Polish, however, the staff do a good job of describing the dishes on offer. Enjoy the stripped back, raw interior (this was once part of the mighty Księży Młyn (p.29) factory complex).QO‑14, ul. Księży Młyn 16, tel. (+48) 880 83 25 09. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 14:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-19:00; closed Mon. €€€. TB6 LEPIONE & PIECZONE We’ve written about Polish food on many occasions here at IYP - it’s hearty stuff, full of meat and veg! We love it. One of our all time favourites have to be pierogi, the typically Polish dumplings, filled with anything from meat, cabbage, cheese or sweet stuff! Lepione & Pieczone (Formed & Baked), brought to you by the the Polish restaurant chain Chłopskie Jadło, is a simple but great idea - choose your pierogi filling, and importantly, choose how you want it done, whether it’s boiled or baked, or both boiled and baked! Delicious. Salads and soups are also on offer, should pierogi alone not fill your tasty spot! The prices are relatively cheap and you can expect to pay anything between 16-35zł.QJ‑11, ul. Piotrkowska 89, tel. (+48) 725 10 03 20. Open 09:30-22:00; Fri, Sat 09:30-23:00; Sun 09:30-22:00. €. T6 PIWNICA ŁÓDZKA A quick disclaimer for anyone wishing to visit Piwnica Łódzka - ‘piwnica’ in Polish means ‘basement’, which is precisely where this restaurant is located, not far from Piotrkowska street. There is no lift so you must deal with the spiral stairs to get in. Once in, you find quite a snug restaurant, dealing with foods unique to both Łódź and Poland. The staff are pleasant and knowledgeable, so don’t be afraid to ask for help in choosing a regional dish - we recommend the hearty favourite meat broth and a choice of various pierogi. We love pierogi, but these
Restaurants flavours were a first for us and they were delightful!QK‑12, ul. Sienkiewicza 67, tel. (+48) 42 207 33 30, www. restauracja-piwnicalodzka.pl. Open 13:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 13:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-18:00; closed Mon. €€. PIWNICA SMAKÓW Enter amongst the rather curious honey and beekeeping equipment shop into this American diner-esque restaurant with ceiling fans and chequerboard flooring to boot. The diner atmosphere was reinforced even more by the large group of American students chattering away in the corner. The concept is simple; offer up a range of tasty, well presented Polish lunch dishes, burgers, pastas and beers at unbelievably low prices (16zł lunch specials!) close to University-land and watch the students flood in! All in all, excellent quality for the price but possibly best avoided if you are over 22 and don’t wear converse sneakers and oversized knitted hats.QM‑10, ul. Narutowicza 59, tel. (+48) 603 71 47 98, www.piwnicasmakow.strefa.pl. Open 10:00-20:00; closed Sat, Sun. €€. 6 POWIDOK Łódź’s industrial beginnings, and later success, was once steeped in the city’s make-up being a diverse melting pot of cultures. Those days of industrialisation may be gone, but Łódź’s revitalisation continues, so in this respect, it’s fantastic to eat in a place with dishes that are a modern mix of European and Polish cuisine. Found on Plac Wolności, the gateway that welcomes you to/from the main ul. Piotrkowska (p.22), Powidok is a welcoming and elegant place, a mix between an art gallery and a restaurant. The work in the open kitchen is as nice to look at as the artwork and interior design - and the food too, which feels almost wrong to destroy with a fork. Lunch is available 12:30-16:30, costing 23zł for a soup and a main, and 15zł for dessert. We suggest trying the 6 (149zł) or 8 (179zł) option tasting menus (available by prior arrangement). Recommended.QJ‑8, Pl. Wolności 8, tel. (+48) 530 25 55 55, www.powidok.lodz.pl. Open 12:30-21:00; Fri, Sat 12:3023:00; Sun 12:30-20:00. €€€. TU
VEGAN TAKŻETEGO If you’re in the vicinity of Sienkiewicz Park looking for a spot to chill out, away from the bustle of ul. Piotrkowska, and would like to find some good healthy eatin’, look no further than Takżetego (roughly translated as ‘also this’), full of vegetarian breakfasts, and wide selection of ever changing vegan dishes. We’re glad to say that such establishments are really punching through misconceptions of what vegan food is really like. For breakfast they have sweet and salted pancakes which is enticing. The fresh fruit cocktail mixes are great, but our choice wasn’t on the board, but worry not, the friendly staff were happy to make it for us. Their speciality dish is the burger with jackfruit, which may sound odd, but...but... just go taste it! Mon-Fri they have lunch deals for 19zł (soup, main & salad). Challenge accepted.QK‑12, ul. Sienkiewicza 40, tel. (+48) 881 31 59 10. Open 10:00-20:00; Fri 10:0021:00; Sat 08:00-21:00; Sun 08:00-20:00. €. T6 63
Poland’s national drink has many exciting variations for you to try… | © Fabrizio Sciami
4 Polish Alcohols You Have to Try …plus several others that also work… 64
Polish Alcohol VODKA TRANSLATOR Poles have been producing and drinking vodka since the early Middle Ages, distilling their skill into some of the best vodka blends available in the world, many of which date back centuries. The most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands must be Belvedere, Chopin, Luksusowa, Ostoya, Pan Tadeusz and Wyborowa, all of which you’ll find in any alcohol shop.
1. ŻOŁĄDKOWA GORZKA
Due to its very name, which translates to something like ‘Bitter Stomach Vodka,’ Żołądkowa Gorzka gives even the most infirm of health an excuse to drink under the guise of its medicinal properties. Though it comes in a variety of flavours, the original orange label (‘tradycyny’) is an aged, amber-coloured liquor flavoured with herbs and spices, Żołądkowa has a unique aroma and sweet spiced taste unlike anything you’re likely to have tried before. Incredibly palatable, we prefer it on ice.
One of Poland’s most popular overseas vodka exports, Żubrówka - also known as Bison Grass Vodka - has been produced in Eastern Poland since the 16th century. Flavoured with a type of grass specific to the primeval Białowieża Forest (a blade of which appears in each bottle), Żubrówka is faint yellow in colour, with a mild fragrance of mown hay and a subtle taste which has been described as ‘floral’ or having traces of almond or vanilla. Delightfully smooth as it is on its own, Żubrówka is most commonly combined with apple juice – a refreshing concoction called a ‘tatanka’ or ‘szarlotka’ depending where you are.
Popular in Poland and Lithuania, Krupnik is a sweet liquor made from honey and a multitude of herbs. Buy a bottle for Mum – drinking booze doesn’t get any easier than this. In winter, hot krupnik is a popular personal defroster with hot water, lemon and mulling spices added.
4. MIÓD PITNY
Mead, or ‘drinkable honey,’ preceded beer’s arrival in Poland and has remained a favourite since the Middle Ages. Since 2008, Polish meads have been protected under EU law as a traditional regional specialty. Distilled from honey, the drink is extremely easy to consume and comes in four strengths with Połtorak being the strongest (15-18%).
While clear vodkas are generally reserved for giving away at weddings and mixing in cocktails, the real fun is in sampling Poland’s flavoured vodkas and nalewki - a more general term applied to a large range of Polish liqueurs and aged tinctures made from vodka or neutral spirits and fruits, herbs and spices. Vodka shot & snack bars like Pijalnia Wódki on ul. Piotrkowska 79 and 92 (J-11) are great places to try. Here are just some of the notable varieties you can find at the bar or shop. Wiśniówka - cherry vodka Cytrynówka - lemon vodka Pigwówka - quince vodka Orzechówka - walnut vodka Piołunówka - wormwood liquor Wódka figowa - fig vodka Wódka śliwkowa - plum vodka Wódka gruszkowa - pear vodka
HOT BEER? Though the Polish winter is famous for being long and brutal, fear not, the Poles have a method for taking the bite out of this blustery season, and as you can probably guess - it’s alcohol (congratulations, Kowalski). For those in need of a warm-up that wince at the thought of vodka, we have two words for you: hot beer, or ‘grzane piwo’ as it’s called by the locals. Essentially a frothing hot pint spiced with artificial ginger syrup, clove, cinnamon and other mulling spices, for some this Polish specialty is an acquired taste, for others an early Christmas present, and others still an utter profanity. Regardless, it’s a necessary invention and a must-try (at least once) for anyone travelling in PL during the winter months. Similarly popular is ‘grzane wino’ - or mulled wine - as you’ll notice by the outdoor stands selling cups of it during the holiday season. Still not sure? Keep mulling it over...and Na zdrowie! 65
Go on a classier night out in Łódź in Dwa Przez Cztery Wine Bar (p.68).
Łódź’s commitment to hedonism is on a par with Poland’s capital. For the unadventurous a straight-forward pub crawl down ulica Piotrkowska is the way to go, though stand advised some of the best drinking dens in town are found squirrelled away in the back streets and side alleys. Follow your nose. During the warmer months the streets, particularly Piotrkowska, are thronged with beer gardens. Once the chillier weather starts to move in the party shifts back inside and downstairs. For the most part you’ll be paying no more than 10zł for a large beer, and bear in mind that the opening hours we list are flexible: most bars will stay open as long as drinkers are drinking. Clubs often charge an entry fee, many of which are based on what’s on offer that night. Here are a few ideas depending on what you are looking for:
COUPLES A big vote for Cafe Bar Poczekalnia (p.67) for a choice of rooms and quiet spaces to talk, yet also with the option to sit amongst people in a friendly atmosphere. Couples that like to be fussed over should check out Dwa Przez Cztery (p.68) to try out some fine wines and nibbles to go.
SPLURGE Swig cocktails in a chilled out and elegant setting at Golden Bar (p.67), one of the nicer places to go, despite it being located in a hotel, or visit Kokoo (p.69) for true top shelf VIP treatment!
OFF THE WALL Łódź has no shortage of curious locales. Lordi’s (p.69) is a legend, and the madness is hard to imagine until you experience it. Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa (p.65) serves up some cheap shots from an extensive list from classic to experimentative. For an alternative bar, head to P29 (p.68).
LADS You’re on holiday but you just cannot forget about the game, huh? Don’t worry, you’ll have plenty of places to see sports on TV in Łódź. A decent sized place to go is the Irish Pub (p.58) which has a true pub atmosphere plus the delicious food from the dining room will keep you on your feet a wee bit longer. For some, ahem, adult entertainment, Magnes (p.69) is the best venue! 66
LOCAL One of our favorite local haunts, Z Innej Beczki (p.68) is your best bet for local micro-brews as well as the finer pints from Czech, Belgium and beyond. And Owoce i Warzywa Klubokawiarnia (p.51) is the best haunt around to rub shoulders with the eccentric side of Łódź’s bohemian undergound.
ALL NIGHTER If you’re still roaming the streets past your bedtime and still looking for some action, head back to Kokoo (p.69) for long hours of electro and clubhouse mixes. If you’re looking to go to the place to be seen in the wee small hours, Lordi’s (p.69) is your best bet. VIP rooms with champagne help you stumble out into the sunrise hours...
Nightlife BARS & PUBS 6. DZIELNICA Although we were a bit late to the party, this might be one of our favourite bars in Łódź. Enter the door found in the gate to the right at Piotrkowska street’s most notorious address. Climb three flights of stairs to find good vibes and great beer. There are two bars, a stage and plenty of eclectic tables and chairs spread out over six or so rooms of what looks like a large high ceilinged apartment. This hotbed of alternative culture hosts regular concerts, exhibitions, interesting debates and much more. If all of that wasn’t enough it is also the perfect place to plugin your laptop, grab a coffee and do some co-working during the day. QK‑12, ul. Piotrkowska 102, www.szostadzielnica.pl. Open 17:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 17:00-03:00; closed Mon, Sun. BE CAFE BAR POCZEKALNIA A great name for that thing a lot of us do in life - wait. Waiting doesn’t have to be boring, as Poczekalnia (Waiting Room) proves. Situated in the northern end of town, not far from Piotrkowska street, this is very much an artsy cafe-bar to chill out in. As is the area it’s located - a stone’s throw away from the New Theatre, right next to a dance school and also the Ferment Music School. You can find yourself waiting for a show, waiting on someone to finish dance class, or finding an excuse to wait for...time to fly by. Any excuse is good enough to come here as a lot takes place from karaoke, gigs, jam sessions to poetry nights. You need not be bored in Poczekalnia.QJ‑10, ul. Więckowskiego 16, tel. (+48) 602 49 13 50. Open 16:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 16:00-02:00. TE6 GOLDEN BAR As far as hotel bars go, this one’s a cracker. The list of alcohols on offer is exceptional, probably more choice than in Oliver Reed’s drinks cabinet! The whisky/whiskey list alone comprises over 130 different bottles, including some special offerings such as the Ardbeg Corryvreckan – a true peaty monster of a malt. The cocktails feature classic and signature concoctions to satisfy every craving. Topping it all off, there’s a great list of American and Asian dishes to choose from, everything from snacks to mains, and it’s a great place to watch live sports on TV. The efficient, amiable staff are extremely attentive creating a thoroughly relaxing ambience. We’ll leave the last word to a foreign businessman we chatted to before we headed off into the night, “Why bother going anywhere else?”QH‑14, ul. Łąkowa 29 (DoubleTree by Hilton Łódź Hotel), tel. (+48) 42 208 80 38, www. doubletreelodz.pl. Open 11:00-02:00; Sat, Sun 16:0002:00. U
Where’s the party? /LodzInYourPocket 67
Nightlife P29 ‘Impressive’ pretty much sums up our feelings for this place. What looks like an unassuming gate entrance (the best places always have this, huh?) is an open-air courtyard, where ‘sparse’ likewise defines this place, but that’s the best bit about it. A large tarpaulin covers the majority of the area which only consists of a small bar and seating area. Stairs lead up to a table where a DJ plays house music that works perfectly with the acoustics of the courtyard. The far corner building is reminiscent of a tower, looking damn cool with each window lit up. You’d be forgiven for thinking Rapunzel was at the top bopping around to the beats below.QJ‑10, ul. Piotrkowska 29 (entrance from Więckowskiego). Open Thu 18:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 18:00-04:00 only.
CRAFT BEER BARS PIWOTEKA NARODOWA Run by the same folks who operate the specialty beer store down the street, Piwoteka Narodowa is where serious beer drinkers set up shop. The interior is dark and very man-cave: think beer paraphernalia on the walls and jumbled tables of drinkers. The bar itself is what will illicit immediate awe: 17 taps and bottle upon bottle of the best Europe has to offer, from Czech to Belgium and Polish to USA and German – all that separates you is a bottle opener.QJ‑11, ul. 6 Sierpnia 1/3, tel. (+48) 42 679 69 10, www.piwotekanarodowa.pl. Open 15:00-24:00; Thu 14:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 14:00-02:00; Sun 14:00-24:00. Z INNEJ BECZKI There ought to be a law stating that all beer aficionados MUST visit this fantastic bar! Not only does it serve up a great selection of ever-changing Polish and international craft beers from 13 beer taps (and one tap with kvass!), it’s also one of the most stunning venues to sip brews in the city. Situated in the lower level of the famous Meyer Villa (1887), the bar is entered via the beautiful multi-levelled sunken garden area and the design has taken its influences from classic bars of the 1920’s-50’s. The also make great coffees and have delicious sandwiches and light fare plus they have an exhibition space. From another barrel indeed!QK‑11, ul. Moniuszki 6, tel. (+48) 720 13 13 13. Open 17:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 15:00-02:00.
WINE BARS DWA PRZEZ CZTERY WINE BAR This compact, store-front, open-shelved wine bar might throw you at first, but bite the bullet and just walk right in. You’ll immediately be met by their smiling sommeliers who will quickly get settled. Whether flying solo, on a date or in a group, expect quick table service and a painless survey of your favourite flavours, profiles, grapes and regions which will ensure you end up with the perfect personalised glass or bottle from their estimable collection. They also offer minimal cheese, olive and hummus tapas if you get peckish while pondering your next wine. Look up at all the bottles and labels on the shelves and maybe take one home for yourselves!QK‑13, ul. Piotrkowska 144, tel. (+48) 662 44 00 80. Open 13:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 13:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-19:00; closed Mon. 6 68
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LORDI’S CLUB & FOO FOO BAR Lordi’s has made a name for itself amongst students, tourists, expats, locals and Poles as the place to go to have a night out. With a huge following and a guaranteed full club Fri and Sat nights it is the place to be. With a separate VIP room up the metal stairs (Foo Foo), Lordi’s is the biggest club in the city and has hosted a number of International DJ’s/performers and Polish homegrown celebrities. You won’t find hipsters here, nor will you find anyone interested in good conversation - this a place to go crazy.QK‑12, ul. Piotrkowska 102, tel. (+48) 662 36 63 66, www. lordisclub.com. Open Thu, Fri, Sat 22:00-06:00 only. X
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KOKOO It’s bling heaven in Kokoo, an upmarket dance arena that’s filled a niche following the death of Coffees and Toffees. Dress to impress if you want entry before proceeding to shimmy and sashay with local fashion fatalities. If you don’t fancy knocking elbows and knockers with the hoi polloi then sneak a place in one of the side rooms. The DJ gods play electro, funk, chart hits and deep house on Fridays and Saturday on the multiple dance floors.QK‑11, ul. Moniuszki 1, tel. (+48) 695 34 66 55, www.klubkokoo.pl. Open Fri, Sat 22:00-06:00 only. XU
ADULT ENTERTAINMENT MAGNES Since IYP first arrived in Łódź, this has been the sauciest night out in town, and remains just that, with a cracking line-up of girls doing their bit for international relations by dropping their knickers in next to no time at all. The shows here are frank and to the point, and if you can’t spring for a private dance then the bartop shows are equally revealing. All this inside a typical strip club atmosphere, with plenty of chrome poles and neon slashes, plus a 30zł entrance fee. QJ‑8, ul. Zachodnia 44, tel. (+48) 507 00 96 03, www. magnesklub.pl. Open 21:00-04:00; closed Sun.
LIVE MUSIC WYTWÓRNIA CLUB Klub Wytwórnia is one of Łódź’s biggest music and culture venue, with culture credentials going back to the location’s previous role as the site of a major film producer, hence its name, Wytwórnia (Studio), coming from the previous name ‘Wytwórnia Filmów Fabularnych’. But that was then, this is now, and since 2007, Wytwórnia has been hosting over 100 events each year, making it a fantastic venue to attend for various concerts, exhibitions, festivals etc. Wytwórnia is not open every week, only when events take place, therefore, it’s best you check their site for upcoming events and ticket buying options.QH‑14, ul. Łąkowa 29, tel. (+48) 42 639 55 55, www.wytwornia.pl.
Łódź, ul. Zachodnia 44 www.magnesklub.pl (+48) 507 009 603 facebook.com/klubmagnes 69
The most Polish of gifts can be found right in the city centre in Folkstar (p.78).
Shopping in Łódź centres on three main areas of the city: the thoroughfare of Piotrkowska, the modern shopping centre Galeria Łódzka (p.74), and the shopping heaven that is the Manufaktura complex (p.42). Some of the streets running parallel to Piotrkowska, including ul. Sienkiewicza, are good for specialist shops, such as antiques and paintings. Indeed, whisper it in Warsaw, but Łódź may in fact be Poland’s top shopping destination. Whether it’s malls, designer boutiques, dusty family stores or antique markets, a day spent shopping can result in both bargains and treasures, and there’s presents to be had for everyone on your list (including yourself ). For more local gift ideas and direct buying opportunities head online to the Poland IYP Shop: iyp.me/polandshop.
SUNDAY SHOPPING BAN Shops have traditionally had more limited hours on weekends, but since 2018 government regulations have increasingly restricted Sunday trading in Poland. In 2020 there will be only 7 Sundays in the entire year when shops are allowed to be open. There are some exemptions from the ban, namely pharmacies, gas stations, kiosks, bakeries, open-air markets, Żabka convenience stores (most of which close at 23:00) and souvenir shops (oh thank god). Note that the Sunday hours we list for venues are the hours they keep only on those Sundays when trade is allowed. 2020’s shopping Sundays are: Jan 26 | April 5, 26 | Jun 28 | Aug 30 | Dec 13, 20 70
ALCOHOL Of course you didn’t come to Poland just for the booze, but while you’re here it’d be rude not to check out what the country has to offer. Primarily that means vodka, with the most highly regarded clear Polish vodkas being Belvedere and Chopin. Others to watch for include Żubrówka - that’s the one with the blade of bison grass inside - krupnik, a sweet honey vodka, and wiśniówka, a sickly sweet cherry drink usually consumed after meals. Finally, check Goldwasser, a unique elixir characterized by the 22 karat gold flakes floating in it. KLUB WINO Half store, half wine bar, Klub Wino will easily appeal to wine connoisseurs who like to buy as well as taste. The store features bottles from around the world, including a small section of Polish wines. Please Note: Soon to relocate check their site for details.QK‑15, ul. Piotrkowska 217, tel. (+48) 786 19 73 00, www.klubwino.pl. Open 12:0021:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-23:00; closed Sun. PIWOTEKA SHOP You’ve probably been in bathroom stalls larger than this shop, but that’s not what will grab your attention. Piwoteka is floor-to-ceiling beer the kinds you can’t and don’t find in the local pub (we imagine ‘Tyskie’ is a dirty word here). Go inside, where you can’t turn around but you can learn a lot about the world’s best beer from the knowledgeable owner (make sure to stop by their fantastic pub and tasting room next door).QJ‑11, ul. 6 Sierpnia 1/3, tel. (+48) 730 35 67 06, www.piwoteka.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; closed Sun.
Shopping AMBER & JEWELLERY Vodka isn’t the only golden nectar popular in Poland. Poland is renowned for its amber and the craftsmen who handsomely shape the fossilised resin into unique and coveted pieces of jewellery. Come back from PL without bringing baby some Baltic Gold and you’ve booked yourself a stint in the doghouse. The best place to begin is in any of the jewellery stores found in Manufaktura, though you’ll find Piotrkowska offering numerous opportunities as well. A&A DOM JUBILERSKI One look in A&A’s window and you’ll be blinded by the bling on display; anything picked up here will easily draw attention, with plenty of unique designs to choose from. QK‑13, ul. Piotrkowska 146, tel. (+48) 42 636 74 18, www.domjubilerski.aia.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:0015:00; closed Sun. CRYSTAL FASHION The owner has 18 years of experience and training working with the world renowned Austrian Kings of Bling, Swarovski. As well as a fabulous range of jewellery and items produced in their onsite workshop, using Swarovski components and their own range of sparkling crystal, they also stock jewellery and accessories from designers such as Crystal and cult Dutch design team Buddha to Buddha. Crystal Fashion also undertakes commission work, irrespective of how bizarre or complex your idea may be, and they have encrusted cars, snooker cues and even a vacuum cleaner. Lighting, including chandeliers, are another speciality of theirs. Not just a store for the super-rich, many of the workshop pieces are very reasonably priced and you can even come away with a Swarovski topped pencil for an amazing 12zł!QK‑16, ul. Piotrkowska 270, tel. (+48) 42 648 05 60, www. crystalfashion.pl. Open 09:00-17:00; closed Sat, Sun. LILOU Phenomenally successful Polish jewellery chain where customers can select their own components and create a unique and personal piece. The range continues to grow, with the original idea of the personalised bracelet still the biggest seller. Choose a bracelet type and any number of simple silver or gold plated charms in a variety of shapes - hearts, dogs, cats and the likes, and then have it hand engraved with whatever or whoever means a lot to you. A ‘must have’ item local celebs and fashionistas and the perfect personalised gift for that special someone. Make sure to stop by their new location in the Manufaktura shopping mall. QJ‑9, ul. Piotrkowska 18, tel. (+48) 797 33 43 36, www. lilouparis.com. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-15:00. W. KRUK Polish jewellery, amber and watches from various international brand names all worth a browse. Also at Galeria Łódzka (L-8/9), Galeria Sukcesja (I-11), Guliwer and CH Port.QI‑8, ul. Jana Karskiego 5 (Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 661 98 05 73, www.wkruk.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Sat 09:00-22:30; Sun 10:00-21:00. 71
Shopping YES Yes jewellery stores can be found throughout Poland, and will impress with their array of accessible (Pandora) and classic (Polish amber) options. Keep an eye out for unique Polish designers.QH‑8, ul. Jana Karskiego 5 (Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 42 617 37 27, www.yes.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-22:30; Sun 10:00-21:00.
ANTIQUES & ART GALLERIES A walk along the side streets off Piotrkowska is usually enough to fulfil antiquarian designs, especially if you like to sift through dusty shops filled with overlooked treasures. If you’re planning on taking an artwork out of the country, and it was produced prior to 1945, you will need authorisation to permit you to do so. Most shops will be able to provide you with this straight off the bat, but do check beforehand. GALERIA ARS NOVA A popular gallery devoted to promoting young Polish artists.QJ‑7, ul. Zgierska 4, tel. (+48) 504 02 32 42, www. arsnovagallery.eu. Open 12:00-18:00; Sat 12:00-15:00; closed Sun.
FASHION & ACCESSORIES Each year in October and April Polish Fashion Week takes over Lodz as the country’s most stylish citizens descend on this historic manufacturing city to find out what’s hot (and what’s not). Surprised? Unassuming Lodz doesn’t seem like the kind of place you’d find a catwalk, let alone hordes of fashionistas clamouring for the latest trends. Yet the city prides itself on being the country’s fashion capital, and tourists can find plenty of stylish stores and boutiques peddling designs straight from the runway. BLOOM BOUTIQUE Stand out from the masses by visiting Bloom Boutique. Specialising in womenswear, bags and accessories by some of Poland’s top fashion designers (Confesion, EST by s, 10 DECOART, Vivitt, Acephala and Messo) this is THE place to find short-run collections from the likes of Marita Bobko and Magda Hasiak. The regularly changing stock features pieces for a variety of occasions; casual, avant garde, business and evening wear. Come in and chat with the owner, Beata Andrzejczak (who speaks English and Italian), about the designers represented in the boutique. Apart from the local buzz surrounding her unique Łódź store, she has built up a following of return customers from around Europe and the U.S.A.QK‑12, ul. Piotrkowska 107, tel. (+48) 506 08 47 93. Open 11:00-19:00; Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-17:00; closed Sun.
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MOGADISHU.STORE Second-hand shops are something Łódź has in spades, though most aren’t worth braving the musty odours and messy displays to enter. Not so at Mogadishu, a store so stylish it took us several minutes to realise we were perusing used goods. Shoes, purses and clothes are all clean and modern in this airy, uncluttered space.QJ‑9, ul. Rewolucji 1905 r. 6, tel. (+48) 698 04 53 52, www.mogadishustore. pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Sun. PAN TU NIE STAŁ Way back in 2008 Justyna Burzyńska and Maciej Lebiedowicz started sharing their love of PRL-era design and typography on their blog. Interest blossomed and soon they began producing limited edition t-shirts which sold like hot pierogi! The obvious next step was to set up shop. The range of funky goods and items expanded to include badges, belts, bags, scarves and hats aimed primarily at the young and arty hipster set. Well designed, smart and funny, all the products make for great and very affordable presents from some top Łódź designers. The name, “Pan tu nie stał” (“You weren’t standing here, sir”), is a comic reference to a regularly used phrase for queue barging during the martial law period of the early 80’s. QK‑13, ul. Piotrkowska 138/140, tel. (+48) 42 257 28 32, www.pantuniestal.com. Open 11:00-19:00; Sun 12:0016:00; Sat 11:00-18:00.
FOOD & SWEETS There’s no better way to reminisce about your trip to Lodz than via the flavours of the city, and bringing home local foods and beverages doesn’t have to be a daunting idea (we’re just as averse to opening a suitcase of clothing that’s been marinated in Polish vodka as you are). Plenty of Lodz’s delicacies are easily transportable and worth the haul through customs. E. WEDEL CHOCOLATE LOUNGE (PIJALNIA CZEKOLADY E.WEDEL) A Polish legend that’s been operating since Karol Wedel first opened a chocolate factory in 1851. Check the handmade truffles and be sure to sit for a rich chocolate drink. Also at ul. Piotrkowska 69.QI‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 19A, tel. (+48) 42 631 00 07, www.wedelpijalnie.pl. Open 10:00-22:00. KRAKOWSKI KREDENS An old-fashioned dry goods store of expensive yet exquisite Polish delicacies, including jams, honeys, liquors and even a tub of smalec for you diehard fans.QH‑8, ul. Jana Karskiego 5 (Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 696 49 00 16, www.krakowskikredens.pl. Open 09:00-23:00; Sun 09:00-22:00. PRODUKTY BENEDYKTYŃSKIE This shop, set up by the Benedictine monks of Tyniec Abbey, sells such an astounding variety of products - cake, cheese, jam, wine, beer, honey, tea, herbs, syrups, meats, pierogi and juices - it raises two eyebrows over how they find
Boutique - Atelier
Symbols of precious moments Lilou is an upscale polish jewelry brand created by Magdalena Mousson-Lestang. Lilou’s philosophy is to create unique, engraved j e w e l r y , customized and customizable to mark events, small and big stories of your life, emotions or simply to please or be pleased. Real caskets in terms of architecture, Lilou Boutique - Atelier are warm and inviting stores where engraving is handmade on demand. Lilou jewelry is made of 14k gold, 925 silver or 23 k. platedgold, and can be accessorized with strings, ribbons, leather bracelets and precious stones, crystals and pearls. Mark stories of your life by creating unique, engraved jewelry.
ŁÓDŹ, 18 Piotrkowska Street MANUFAKTURA, 58 Drewnowska Street lilouparis.com /bemylilou
Shopping design makeover to add a modern twist. Even before you enter, you are bedazzled by the sheer range of colours of all the products - they definitely are eye-catching, we give them that! Not only can you buy souvenirs here, but the extensive collection of items range from household, office and fashion items! You’ll definitely find something you’ll like in here, the designs are too wonderful to pass up.QJ‑11, ul. Piotrkowska 70, tel. (+48) 575 30 06 33, www.folkstar. pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00.
SHOPPING MALLS Łódź’s urban landscape, as you know, is laid out perfectly for tourists, but so to are its shopping malls, which, it seems, are strategically placed to lure you in! Ok, ok, Manufaktura (p.42) is a former factory, however, this has the northern half of the centre covered for your shopping needs, whereas head south of ul. Piotrkowska and you have Galeria Łódźka on the way to the Museum of Cinematography, and to the south-west of the centre, two more in the form of CH Sukcesja and Pasaż Łódzki, all on the way to parks in the area.
the time. All the products are completely natural, without pigment, and unilaterally excellent and make excellent gifts and can even be purchased through their (Polish only) website.QK‑14, ul. Piotrkowska 200, tel. (+48) 42 636 40 66, www.produktybenedyktynskie.com.pl. Open 10:0018:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Sun.
GIFTS & SOUVENIRS Polish glass and amber are highly thought of, though if you want something clutz-proof then Polish linen, lace and woodwork all look lovely on someone else’s mantle. Folk art is an easily recognisable symbol of Poland, as is a magnet of the country’s favourite hero and saint-in-waiting Pope John Paul II. CEPELIA Your first stop for traditional (some might say tacky) souvenirs. Amongst the tat also find traditional Polish handicrafts like table cloths, ceramics from Bolesławiec, glass etc.QJ‑12, ul. Piotrkowska 97, tel. (+48) 42 630 35 41. Open 10:00-18:30; closed Sun. FOLKSTAR As far as souvenir shops go, each major Polish city has them, selling all manners of trinkets and oddities, however, Folkstar ups the game to offer tourists to Poland the chance to buy what can only be described as traditional items, steeped in ethnic Polish folklore, but given a slight 74
CH SUKCESJA After a few teething issues with the city’s newest shopping centre in Łódź is finally starting to take. They got rid of paid parking (the first 3 hours are free) and all of a sudden people are showing up. Also, the influx of restaurants has also helped the cause including Chude Ciacho (and the usual fast food court suspects). For shopping you have your standard H&Ms, CCCs, Media Experts, Rossmanns, Inglots and Mohitos plus a few Polish chains like Ryłko, W. Kruk, Cropp and Ziaja. They also have plenty of entertainment options with a Helios cinema, Król Kul (King Cool) Bowling, a Fit Fabric fitness club, a huge kid’s trampoline park (Stacja Grawitacja) and a Jupi Park crèche.QI‑16, Al. Politechniki 1, tel. (+48) 42 295 02 54, www.sukcesja.eu. Open 10:00-21:00. GALERIA ŁÓDZKA Opened in 2002 Galeria Łódzka became the first modern shopping centre in the city, with some 160 retail units occupying a space of 45,000 sqm. On the fashion front consumers needs are met by stores like H&M, Reserved, Medicine, Nervous skate shop and California skate shop, though those with credit cards tend to head in one direction alone: Peek & Cloppenburg and 50 Style. Other needs come catered for in the shape of Lidl, Home & You, Pepco and cosmetic and beauty store Apteka SuperPharm. Food-wise there’s the standard mall mix, with all the big Yank franchises represented, as well as Hana Sushi, Sphinx, Costa Coffee, Kuchnia Marche, Berlin Döner Kebap and Salad Story. Ranked as Europe’s Best Shopping Centre in the 2004 ICSC Awards, GL realised their expansion plans fitting in even more stores than before. It’s within walking distance from Piotrkowska street, though car owners can choose from 1,400 parking spaces (the first 3 hours are free!).QL‑13, Al. Piłsudskiego 15/23, tel. (+48) 42 639 15 00, www.galeria-lodzka.pl. Open 09:30-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00.
Services Directory 24-HOUR PHARMACIES QI‑11, ul. Żeromskiego 39, tel. (+48) 42 633 48 29, www.apteka-cito.com.pl. Open 24-hours.
24-HOUR POST OFFICE QF‑13, Al. Włókniarzy 227, tel. (+48) 42 634 41 34, www.poczta-polska.pl. Open 24-hours.
24-HOUR SHOPS U BRONKA QL‑6, ul. Wojska Polskiego 82, tel. (+48) 42 616 07 60. Open 06:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 06:00-02:00. ZETKA QM‑14, ul. Kilińskiego 153, tel. (+48) 42 674 60 73. Open 24-hours.
COMPUTER REPAIR AISKOMP QJ‑10, ul. Piotrkowska 35, tel. (+48) 510 70 92 80, www. aiskomp.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Sun.
CURRENCY EXCHANGE KANTOR EXCHANGE GROUP QH‑8, ul. Jana Karskiego 5 (Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 42 634 84 98. Open 10:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-22:30; Sun 10:00-21:00. KANTOR EXCHANGE GROUP QL‑13, Al. Piłsudskiego 15/23 (Galeria Łódzka), tel. (+48) 42 636 01 62. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00.
DENTISTS INTERSTOM QJ‑12, Al. Kościuszki 32, tel. (+48) 42 632 57 11. Open Mon, Tue, Thu 16:00-19:00 only.
INTERNET CAFES SET KOMPUTERY QH‑3, ul. Pojezierska 2/6, tel. (+48) 500 02 94 43, www. z1.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Sat, Sun.
LAUNDRY CZYSTA SZTUKA QJ‑15, ul. Stefanowskiego 24, tel. (+48) 609 64 83 38. Open 10:00-16:00; closed Sun. PRALNIA PERFECT QK‑11, ul. Sienkiewicza 29, tel. (+48) 42 634 23 02, www.pralniaperfect.pl. Open 09:00-18:00; Sat 10:0013:00; closed Sun.
HEALTH & EMERGENCY In the case of an emergency, mobile phone users should dial 112 to be forwarded to the police, fire department or ER. From a landline or public phone dial the following: Ambulance: 999; Fire: 998; Police: 997. English, German and Russian speakers have separate lines specifically designed for foreigners in distress: (+48) 608 59 99 99 (mobile) or (+48) 22 278 77 77 (landline). For urgent medical emergencies, use the listings below. The emergency room in PL is called SOR and should only be visited when absolutely necessary. In less urgent crises we recommend you visit a private clinic, where you’ll get better service and avoid the notoriously long queues in Polish hospitals. CHILDREN’S EMERGENCY ROOM (SOR) QN‑6, ul. Pankiewicza 16, tel. (+48) 42 617 79 99, www.csk.umed.pl. Open 24hrs. EMERGENCY ROOM (SOR) A large hospital located south of the city centre. Qul. Pabianicka 62, tel. (+48) 42 689 51 60, www. kopernik.lodz.pl. ESKULAP A private medical clinic near Łódź Kaliska train station. QL‑11, ul. Traugutta 25, tel. (+48) 42 632 91 56, www.eskulap-lekarze.pl. Open 12:00-18:00; closed Sat, Sun. LOST AND FOUND OFFICE (BIURO RZECZY ZNALEZIONYCH) QK‑13, ul. Piotrkowska 153, tel. ( +48) 42 638 57 34. Open 08:00-16:00; Tue 09:00-17:00; closed Sat, Sun. MUNICIPAL POLICE HEADQUARTERS IN ŁÓDŹ The location of the Police HQ is near the main Piotrkowska Street. Crucially, if you need immediate assistance, call the English language EU-wide emergency service no. 112.QK‑11, ul. Sienkiewicza 28/30, www.lodz.policja.gov.pl. SALVE This private medical clinic is located just off Piotrkowska. QJ‑12, ul. Struga 3, tel. (+48) 42 633 56 61, www. salve.pl. Open 07:00-20:00; Sat 08:00-14:00; Sun 09:00-15:00.
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Design meets comfort, taste and culture - all under one roof in PURO Hotel Łódź
For many years the hotel sector in Łódź didn’t reflect its position as the country’s third biggest city. While the skyscraping 5-star international brands have still yet to arrive here, the sector has seen a marked improvement in recent years with a series of new and renovated hotels opening their doors. And with the improved rooms you can expect improved service as well with English much more widely spoken and with extras such as wireless internet, spas, swimming pools and gyms now coming as standard in many places. With rates tending to fluctuate, use IYP’s booking service to see what the best offers are.
CREAM OF THE CROP DOUBLETREE BY HILTON ŁÓDŹ QH‑14, ul. Łąkowa 29, tel. (+48) 42 208 80 00, www. doubletreelodz.pl. 200 rooms (10 apartments, 1 Presidential Apartment). PUL 6KHCD Fw hhhh VIENNA HOUSE ANDEL’S LODZ QI‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 17 (Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 42 279 10 00, www.viennahouse.com/pl/andels-lodz. 277 rooms (52 apartments). PXUL6KHC DFw hhhh
UPMARKET AMBASADOR CENTRUM QL‑13, Al. Piłsudskiego 29, tel. (+48) 42 677 15 20, www.hotelambasador.pl. 143 rooms (4 apartments). XULKHCDF hhhh 76
BOROWIECKI QF‑10, ul. Kasprzaka 7/9, tel. (+48) 42 208 17 00, www. hotelborowiecki.pl. 56 rooms (2 apartments). PUL 6KHF hhh HOLIDAY INN LODZ QK‑15, ul. Piotrkowska 229/231, tel. (+48) 42 208 20 00, www.hilodz.com. 127 Total rooms. PULKH DF hhhh KOLUMNA PARK HOTEL & RESTAURANT Qul. Hotelowa 1 (Dobroń Przygoń), tel. (+48) 43 677 27 27, www.kolumnapark.pl. 71 rooms (4 apartments). PUL6D hhh NOBO HOTEL Qul. Liściasta 86 / Al. Włókniarzy, tel. (+48) 42 234 14 61, www.nobohotel.pl. 26 rooms (1 apartment). PUL 6KH hhh NOVOTEL ŁÓDŹ CENTRUM QK‑13, Al. Piłsudskiego 11A, tel. (+48) 42 254 39 00, www.novotel.com. 161 rooms (1 apartment). PUL 6KHF hhhh PURO HOTEL ŁÓDŹ QI‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 16, tel. (+48) 42 715 90 00, www. purohotel.pl/en/lodz. PU6KHDFw hhhh QUBUS HOTEL ŁÓDŹ QI‑14, Al. Mickiewicza 7, tel. (+48) 42 275 51 00, www. qubushotel.com. 78 Total rooms. PUL6KH hhh
Hotels SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning C‑1 Map Coordinate w Wellness
C Swimming pool
F Fitness centre
H Conference facilities
U Facilities for the disabled
L Guarded parking on site
6 Animal friendly
X Smoking rooms available
STACJA NOWA GDYNIA Qul. Sosnowa 1, Zgierz, tel. (+48) 42 714 21 61, www. hotelnowagdynia.pl. 19 rooms (1 apartment). PU L6KHCDFw hhh TOBACO HOTEL QG‑14, ul. Kopernika 64, tel. (+48) 42 207 07 07, www. hoteltobaco.pl. 115 Total rooms. PUL6KH DF hhh
MID-RANGE B&B HOTEL ŁÓDŹ CENTRUM QJ‑11, Al. Kościuszki 16, tel. (+48) 42 207 00 40, www. hotelbb.pl. 149 Total rooms. PXUL6H hh BOUTIQUE HOTEL QJ‑9, ul. Rewolucji 1905r. 8, tel. (+48) 512 20 10 80, www.cfihotels.pl. 69 rooms (3 apartments). L6H CAMPANILE QL‑13, Al. Piłsudskiego 27, tel. (+48) 42 664 26 00, www.campanile-lodz.pl. 104 Total rooms. PUL6 KH hhh
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ESKULAP Qul. Paradna 46, tel. (+48) 42 272 33 00, www.hoteleskulap.com.pl. 50 rooms (4 apartments). UL6H DF hh FOCUS QH‑13, ul. Łąkowa 23/25, tel. (+48) 42 637 12 00, www. focushotels.pl. 105 Total rooms. PXUL6K HD hhh IBIS QK‑13, Al. Piłsudskiego 11, tel. (+48) 42 638 67 00, www. ibis.com. 207 Total rooms. PUL6KH hh
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Hotels ŁÓDŹ IYP ONLINE Despite trying to pack as much useful information into 88 pages, the Łódź In Your Pocket print edition is only a fraction of the content we have on Łódź, the surrounding region, and all of Poland. Visit our website - poland.inyourpocket.com - to see just how much of the country we cover, and to download guides to Warsaw, Gdańsk, Kraków, Wrocław, Poznań, Katowice and other cities you might be travelling to. Below is a sample of Łódź-related content we wish we’d had room for this issue, with links to where you’ll find it online. Thanks for reading In Your Pocket! OUTDOORS IN ŁÓDŹ Sometimes the best thing to do in a city is just get on out there and explore. Whether you go for a walk or ride a bike, enjoying the fresh outdoors can sometimes be the topping on the cake: https://www.inyourpocket.com/lodz/outdoorsin-lodz_75630f ŁÓDŹ WITH THE KIDS Sometimes we have the younglings with us and need to find a find balance of activities to keep everyone entertained. No problem. We’ve got you covered for both sunny and rainy days. You can thank us later... https://www.inyourpocket.com/lodz/lodz-withthe-kids 1905 REVOLUTION Łódź’s Industrial heritage is not only about factories and rich fat cats. Throw in a working class culture, the fight for equality, and a hate for Imperial Russia and you have a mix for revolution on the streets of Łódź, which is exactly what happened! Find out more: https://www.inyourpocket.com/lodz/1905Revolution_70948f POLA NEGRI As much as Łódź is known as the tinseltown of Poland, Pola Negri was a Polish actress who became quite the femme fatal in the golden era of films in the glamorous world of Hollywood. From humble beginnings to a glitzy lifestyle: https://www.inyourpocket.com/lodz/PolaNegri_72541f 78
INESS QH‑17, ul. Wróblewskiego 19/23, tel. (+48) 42 684 45 54, www.inesshotel.pl. 55 rooms (6 apartments). PU L6KH hhh LINAT ORCHIM DOM GOŚCINNY QK‑8, ul. Pomorska 18, tel. (+48) 42 632 46 61, www. linatorchim.pl. 21 Total rooms. L6 MAZOWIECKI QH‑12, ul. 28 Pułku Strzelców Kaniowskich 53/57, tel. (+48) 42 637 43 33, www.hotelmazowiecki.com. 105 rooms (1 apartment). UL6KH hh REYMONT QG‑9, ul. Legionów 81, tel. (+48) 42 633 80 23, www. hotelewam.pl. 72 rooms (2 apartments). TUL 6H hhh SAVOY QK‑11, ul. Traugutta 6, tel. (+48) 609 67 45 81, www. savoy.centrumhotele.pl. 91 rooms (1 apartment). TU6KHi hh ŚWIATOWIT QJ‑13, Al. Kościuszki 68, tel. (+48) 609 67 47 40, www. swiatowit.centrumhotele.pl. 115 rooms (62 singles, 29 doubles, 2 triples). PUL6KH hhh VILLA MASONERIA QN‑10, ul. Tramwajowa 11, tel. (+48) 723 24 87 39, www.villamasoneria.com.pl. 18 Total rooms. TL6 ZAJAZD RUBIN Qul. Scaleniowa 11, tel. (+48) 42 689 25 90, www. hotelrubin.pl. 11 rooms (1 apartment). L6K hhh
BUDGET MHOTEL Qul. Św. Teresy 111 (via ul. Szczecińska in Bałuty), tel. (+48) 42 652 99 90, www.mhotel.eu. 40 Total rooms. L6KHCD hhh PAŁAC POLONIA QL‑10, ul. Narutowicza 38, tel. (+48) 609 67 45 82, www. palac-polonia.pl. 40 Total rooms. 6 hh TRAINING AND CONFERENCE CENTRE UNIVERSITY OF ŁÓDŹ Qul. Rogowska 26, tel. (+48) 42 659 82 11, www.csk.uni. lodz.pl. 52 Total rooms. UL6KH hhh TRAINING AND CONFERENCE CENTRE UNIVERSITY OF ŁÓDŹ QO‑9, ul. Kopcińskiego 16/18, tel. (+48) 42 635 54 90, www.csk.uni.lodz.pl. 60 Total rooms. PL6 KH
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Central location - Piotrkowska Street
ARCHE BOUTIQUE RESIDENCE HOTEL ŁÓDŹQO‑8, ul. Jana Matejki 11, QC-4, ul.42 Rewolucji 1905r. 8, tel. (+48) 512 20 10 80, tel. (+48) 208 10 10, www.archeresidencelodz.pl. www.cfihotels.pl. T L6KH 69 rooms (20 singles, 40 doubles, 4 triples, 2 suites, 1 apartment). BASECAMP ŁÓDŹQL‑9, ul. Rewolucji 1905 r. 45, CAMPANILE tel. (+48) 691 44 75 58, www.basecampstudent.com. QE-6, Al.F Piłsudskiego 27, tel. (+48) 42 664 26 00, U LK www.campanile-lodz.pl. 104 rooms (104 singles, 104 doubles). PH6 KX hh64, tel. (+48) 730 BEDROOMSQJ‑11, ul.U Piotrkowska 64 64 64, www.bedrooms64.pl. 44 Total rooms. PT CUD MIÓD GUESTROOMS QF-3, Al. Włókniarzy tel. ul. (+48) 665 18 91, 90 50. CITY CENTER ROOMS151, QJ‑12, Piotrkowska 5 rooms 6K tel. (+48)(5 singles, 42 208 085 doubles). 08, www.citycenterrooms.pl. 24 apartments. PTLi FOCUSQA-7, ul. Łąkowa 23/25, tel. (+48) 42 637 12 00, www.focushotels.pl. (49 singles, GOOD TIME - HISTORICAL110 rooms APARTMENT COMPLEX 54 doubles, 7 triples). PH UF KD QK‑12, ul. Piotrkowska 120,6tel. (+48) 42 X 207hhh 32 32, www.good-time.com.pl. 57 apartments. TL6H GRAND HOTEL QC-4, Piotrkowska 72, tel. (+48) 42 99 20, HOME ul. & TRAVELQJ‑9, ul. Piotrkowska 21,633 tel. (+48) www.grandlodz.pl. 89 rooms (41 19 apartments. singles, 27 doubles, 42 633 80 80, www.hometravel.pl. 14 suites, P TL 7 apartments). PH6ULK hhh IBISQD-7, Al. Piłsudskiego 11, tel. (+48) 4225C, 638 tel. 67 00, LOFT APARTSQO‑15, ul. Tymienieckiego www.ibis.com. (207 singles,60 apartments. 207 doubles). (+48) 730 25 25207 rooms 25, www.loftaparts.pl. PH6UK hh L LINAT ORCHIM DOM GOŚCINNY STARE KINO CINEMA RESIDENCEQK‑12, ul. QC-2, ul. Pomorska tel.42(+48) 4227, 632www. 46 61, www. Piotrkowska 120, tel. 18, (+48) 207 27 linatorchim.pl. 51 apartments. 23 rooms (23 L singles, 23 doubles, cinemahotel.pl. 6KH 23 triples, 23 quads). 6
Free parking available
Wiﬁ and satellite TV - free of charge ul. Piotrkowska 21 90-406 Łódź tel.: +48/42/633-80-80 fax. +48/42/633-80-10 www.hometravel.pl 7880 Łódź In Your Pocket
QG-4, ul. 28 Pułku Strzelców Kaniowskich 53/57, BOUTIQUE HOSTELQJ‑15, ul. Stefanowskiego 17, (+48)5124222 10 63722,43 33, www.hotelmazowiecki. tel. (+48) www.cfihotels.pl. 41 rooms com. 105 rooms (63 8 triples). singles, 38 doubles, 3 suites, (11 singles, 22 doubles, L6 1 apartment). H6UK hh CYNAMON HOSTELQK‑12, ul. Sienkiewicza 40, tel. SAVOY (+48) 42 209 34 79, www.cynamonhostel.pl. 25 rooms QC-4, ul. Traugutta 6, tel. (+48) 42 632 room, 93 60, www. (9 doubles, 3 triples, 2 quads, 3 Six-person savoy.centrumhotele.pl. 91 rooms (57 singles, 5 Eight-person room, 3 Ten-person room, 126 dorm 33 doubles, H6U hh beds). T61 apartment). K ŚWIATOWITHOSTELQK‑12, ul. Sienkiewicza 67, tel. FLAMINGO QC-6,42 Al.661 Kościuszki 68, tel. (+48) 42 636 36 37, www. (+48) 18 88, www.lodz.flamingo-hostel.com. swiatowit.centrumhotele.pl. rooms (125 singles, 13 rooms (8 singles, 8 doubles,201 1 quad, 1 Six-person 76 doubles). PH6room, UK1 Ten-person hhh room, 2 Eight-person room). 6 ZAJAZD HOSTELQG‑11, RUBIN FRESCO ul. 6-go Sierpnia 80, tel. QG-6,508 ul. Scaleniowa 11, tel. (+48) 42 689L 256 90, www. (+48) 10 82 45, www.hostelfresco.pl. hotelrubin.pl. 11 rooms (1 single, 6 doubles, 1 triple, 2 suites, 1 apartment). 6 hhh 60, tel. (+48) MUSIC HOSTELQJ‑5, ul.K Piotrkowska 533 53 32 63, www.music-hostel.pl. 6 rooms (1 triple, 2 quads, 3 six-person room, 28 dorm beds). L6
RELAXQK‑14, ul. Piotrkowska 192, tel. (+48) 510 70 56 97, www.hotelikrelax.pl. lodz.inyourpocket.com
Index If the venue you’re looking for isn’t listed, you’ll likely find it among the hundreds of places in Łódź listed on our website: lodz.inyourpocket.com 6. Dzielnica 67 A&A Dom Jubilerski 71 Affogato57 Ambasador Centrum 76 Anatewka61 Angelo Ristorante 60 Aquapark Fala 49 Arche Residence Łódź 80 ArcheVita61 Arena Laser Games 46 Art Factory 26 Artur Rubinstein’s Piano 22 Ato Sushi 56 Bałucki Rynek 37 Basecamp Łódź 80 Bawełna46 B&B Hotel Łódź Centrum 77 Bedrooms80 Bird Mural 38 Bistro Korzenie 27 Bloom Boutique 72 Borowiecki76 Boutique Hostel 80 Boutique Hotel 77 Brush Barber Shop & Cocktail Bar 25 Bubamara46 Cafe Bar Poczekalnia 67 Campanile77 Central Museum of Textiles in Łódź 27, 40 Centralna Gastromachina 55 Centre for Science & Technology EC1 31, 40, 81 Cepelia74 Cesky Film Restaurant & Pub 57 Charlie48 Chatka Ech 50 Chłopska Izba 62 CH Sukcesja 74
Church of the Assumption of Our Blessed Mary 37 Cinema City 46 City Center Rooms 80 Crystal Fashion 71 Cynamon Hostel 80 DALeast Deer Mural 39 Decalogue Monument 36 DOKI gastrobar 24 Dom25 DoubleTree by Hilton Łódź 76 Dwa Przez Cztery Wine Bar 68 Dzika Kaczka 58 Eskulap77 E. Wedel Chocolate Lounge 72 Experymentarium43 Fairytale Łódź 23 Fatamorgana62 Flamingo Hostel 80 Focus77 Folkstar74 Four Colors 58
Centre for Science & Technology EC1
Fresco Hostel 80 Galeria Ars Nova 72 Galeria Łódzka 74 Gastromachina Stacja 55 Golden Bar 67 Good Time - Historical Apartment Complex80 Holiday Inn Lodz 76 Home & Travel 80 Hot Air Cafe 50 Ibis77 Inappropriate Weight 39 Iness78 Irish Pub 58 Jewish Cemetery 36 Jewish Community Centre & Synagogue35 Klub Wino 70 Kokoo69 Kolumna Park Hotel & Restaurant 76 Krakowski Kredens 72 Król Kul 48
photo courtsey of EC1
‘Bang!’ by Etam Cru and Sat One found on al. Kościuszki 27
Księży Młyn & Herbst Palace 29, 40 Len i Bawełna 25, 58 Lepione & Pieczone 62 Lilou71 Linat Orchim Dom Gościnny 78 Locum Cafe 50 Łódź Film School 33 Łódź Tourism Organisation 40 Łódź Walk of Fame 33 Loft Aparts 80 Lordi's Club & Foo Foo Bar 69 Madame Chicken 39 Magnes69 Mandoria City of Adventure 48 Manufaktura Shopping Gallery 44 Mazowiecki78 mHotel78 Mogadishu.store72 Museum of Archaeology & Ethnography40 Museum of Art in Łódź - ms¹ 40
FEATURES INDEX Decoding the Menu Famous Alumni Health & Emergency Hot Beer? Łódź's IYP Online Sunday Shopping Ban Vodka Translator 82
59 33 75 65 78 70 65
Museum of Art in Łódź- ms² 40, 44 Museum of Cinematography 33, 41 Museum of Public Transport 41 Museum of the City of Łódź 41, 44 Museum of the Factory 41, 44 Museum of the Tradition of Independence41 Music Hostel 80 Nextbike City Bikes 48 NoBo Hotel 76 Novotel Łódź Centrum 76 Nowhere to Nowhere 51 Nóż24 Old Jewish Cemetery 37 Otwarte Drzwi 60 Owoce i Warzywa Klubokawiarnia 51 P2968 Pałac Polonia 78 Pan Tu Nie Stał 72 Piotrkowska 217 26 Piwnica Łódzka 62 Piwnica Smaków 63 Piwoteka Narodowa 68 Piwoteka Shop 70 Planetarium EC1 31, 41 Powidok63 Presto60 Produkty Benedyktyńskie 72 Przerwa Catering & Design 59 PURO Hotel Łódź 76
Quale Restaurant 59 Qubus Hotel Łódź 76 Radegast Station 36 Reicher Synagogue 37 Relax80 Restauracja u Kretschmera 59 Reymont78 Róża's Passage 23, 39 Savoy78 Schupo and Gestapo HQ 37 Señoritas Mexican American Restaurant & Lounge 61 Society of Friends of Old Łódź 40 Sote60 SPA & Health Club in DoubleTree by Hilton Łódź 49 Stacja Nowa Gdynia 77 Stare Kino Cinema Residence 80 Stratosfera Climbing Centre 46 Survivors' Park 36 Światowit78 Szpulka 46, 57 Takżetego63 Tango Argentino Steakhouse 56 The Brick Coffee Factory 51 The Children of Bałuty - Memorial Murals36 The Ghetto Bridges 37 The Red House 37 Tobaco Hotel 77 Tourist Information Point 40 Training and Conference Centre University of Łódź 78 Vienna House Andel's Lodz 76 Villa Gallery/Chimera Gallery 29, 41 Villa Masoneria 78 Whiskey in the Jar Manufaktura 46, 56 W. Kruk 71 Woman in Bath 39 Wytwórnia Club 69 Yes72 Zachodnia Street 37 Zajazd Rubin 78 Z Innej Beczki 68 Złoty Imbir 56 Zoo49