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Cellar Door Shop Local, Globally with Banville & Jones Wine Co.

Issue 36 June 2020 – September 2020

Chardonnay


We’re here to safely serve you. Helping you is what we do.

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You carefully select that bottle of wine. It’s time to do the same for your wealth advisor. Contact our team for a second opinion on your family’s wealth plan.

MILES WEALTH MANAGEMENT GROUP Tel.: 204.953.7828 Benji.Miles@RichardsonGMP.com

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An Innovair Group Company

We are here. Sleep therapy from the comfort of your home.

Where does your sleep journey begin? Select where your journey begins and follow the next steps 1

How do I get tested for sleep apnea? We’ll send you an at-home sleep test, including devices, instructions and videos on how to complete it. A sleep physician and our qualified sleep therapists will review your results to determine the best treatment plan. Once your review is complete and you receive your prescription, we will contact you to discuss the next step.

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How do I get fitted for a new mask remotely? Our sleep therapist will contact you by phone or video to determine the right mask for you. If needed, we will send you tools beforehand that will help determine the perfect mask type and size for you. Once completed we will discuss the next steps.

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How do I receive my equipment? We’ll deliver your equipment. Once it arrives, we’ll set up an appointment to explain how it works.

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How can I learn more about my equipment? Along with your delivery, we provide educational materials that outline how to use the equipment, how to clean it, and when it needs to be replaced. Our qualified sleep therapists will meet with you remotely to walk you through the equipment and answer your questions.

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How can I receive monitoring and support? We will monitor progress remotely using your CPAP device during your trial period. Once your trial is complete, we can review and monitor data upon a patient’s request. Using this data we can identify changes and adjust your treatment plan accordingly to increase your level of comfort.

CONTACT US At any time in your journey, you can contact us. Our qualified sleep therapists and team are here to help and support you: For your specific needs, contact: Book an at-home sleep test: 431.388.5339 For support: 1.204.786.2727 Toll-Free: 1.855.766.7388 General contact information: Email: medigas.cpap@innovairgroup.com Phone: 1.204.786.2727 Toll-Free: 1.855.766.7388

We’re here for you! Learn more about how we can support you at medi-gas.com @MedigasManitoba


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contents Features 18 Our Resilient Manitoba The local business community responds to COVID-19 the only way we know how: with resilience, strength, and hope.

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30 Chardonnay’s Roots: From Burgundy to the New World Sylvia Jansen explores the roots of the second most planted grape variety in the world.

38 Nickelback and the Infinite Possibilities of Chardonnay Mike Muirhead and Sylvia Jansen make connections between the much maligned Chardonnay and the Canadian rock band we all love to hate.

46 Sparkling Summer Fare 46

Meet us on the city’s most exquisite terrace for summer bubbles paired with dinner by Chef Luc Jean.

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contents Columns 12 A Message from Tina Jones 14 Ask a Sommelier 16 Banville & Jones and Company

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22 In Memoriam 24 Gary’s Corner Of Green Apples and Milk

26 Gluggy Rosé all Summer

33 Banville & Jones Cottage Cases 36 Behind the Label Domain Rollin Père et Fils

50 Sidebar Noble Love

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52 Culinary Partners 53 Shopping List 54 Top Picks

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YOU

investment.

our experience.

Your Fillmore Riley. Drive your future forward by putting your investment and our experience to work.

fillmoreriley.com Fillmore Riley LLP Lawyers and Trademark Agents


Keep your meals exciting and fresh with our high-quality oils, vinegars, sea salts and spices. Order online or over the phone. Pick up in-store or get your product delivered.*

Cellar Door

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Cooking at home doesn’t have to be boring.

Publisher and Editor Lisa Muirhead lisa@poisepublications.com Editorial Board Tina Jones, Sylvia Jansen, Gary Hewitt, Mike Muirhead Graphic Design Ryan Germain ryan.germain@gmail.com Advertising Sales Vanessa Shapiro vanessa@poisepublications.com Contributors Todd Antonation, Gary Hewitt, Sylvia Jansen, Luc Jean, Tina Jones, Murdoch Leeies, Alyona Lyubytska, Megan Kozminski/Media Spur Inc., Jill Kwiatkoski, Rebecca Lechman, Ian McCausland, Saralyn Mehta, Mike Muirhead, Tom Penner, Lynn Walker Published for Banville & Jones Wine Co. by Poise Publications Inc. www.poisepublications.com

For advertising information, please contact lisa@poisepublications.com

Find the recipe for Crispy Chicken with Roasted Cauliflower Risotto on our website!

We thank you for your continued support during this time. *Deliveries apply to city-wide orders $40 and up

Three locations in Winnipeg: 2-929 Corydon Ave. | 204-505-1455 5-1604 St Mary’s Rd. | 204-615-3885 1-1530 Regent Ave W. | 204-504-4200

frescolio.ca

fine oil + vinegar tasting bar

In 1999, Tina Jones had the vision of opening Banville & Jones Wine Co., a fine wine boutique in Winnipeg, Manitoba that specializes in promoting wine education and lifestyle. It is located in a three-storey Tuscan-inspired facility that houses fine wine and accessories, an educational facility, and a private function room. Banville & Jones Wine Co. 1616 St Mary’s Rd. Winnipeg, MB R2M 3W7 204-948-9463 www.banvilleandjones.com © 2020 Poise Publications Inc.

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GARDEN CENTRE

MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR HOME WITH RON PAUL GARDEN CENTRE’S TOTAL LANDSCAPE & GARDEN SERVICES

Ron Paul carries a full line of Barkman Concrete items for enhancing your yard and garden. Come in and see the full line in our display. PROUD SUPPLIER & INSTALLER OF

CITY-WIDE DELIVERY GRAVEL AND SOILS Quality sod, soil, decorative landscape stones to be bagged and picked up or delivered to your door.

YOUR SOURCE FOR EVERYTHING THAT GROWS IN THE YARD. BEDDING PLANTS | FLOWERS | TREES | SHRUBS | FERTILIZER SOIL | AGGREGATE LANDSCAPING | LAWN MAINTENANCE Find all your gardening resources online: Plant Finder, Planting Charts, Ask a Gardener, Granite/Soil/Mulch/Stone Estimator 204.257.2893 | 2641 St. Mary’s Road | www.rpgc.ca


a message from tina jones This issue was a tough one to put together. We wanted to bring you the wine culture and fun content you have come to love, but we cannot ignore that this is a very challenging and completely unique moment in world history. So this issue will also be unique. We will talk about wine, and we will hear from our community. First, the wine: Chardonnay. We all seem to know it and have an opinion about it. At the same time it is a bit of a French secret. The traditional French approach of region- or vineyard-first has meant that it is not the most obvious thing on their wine labels—and sometimes not on labels at all. It has been a shock for more than a few people I know to learn that it is the most widely planted white variety in both Burgundy and Champagne in France. And there is always fun (sometimes even some embarrassment) when people tell me they hate Chardonnay but love Chablis! I have often heard our VP and Sommelier Mike Muirhead say that, if you do not like Chardonnay, you just have not yet met the right one. This issue is devoted to sorting out the right Chardonnay (for you) from its many incarnations. Mike and Sylvia Jansen bring it home when they liken our difficult relationship with Chardonnay to Canadians’ love-hate relationship with Nickelback; Sylvia roams France and beyond in exploring Chardonnay’s birthplace and travels around the world; and Gary Hewitt talks technical about how certain taste profiles appear in our Chardonnays. In addition, Jill Kwiatkoski gives us her rosé picks for the summer, and we pair our favourite Champagnes with a meal made-to-order from WOW! Catering Executive Chef Luc Jean. In addition to the wine, we are also going to pay tribute to our resilient Winnipeg business community. We have all been working incredibly hard in extraordinary conditions to adapt as the so-called “new normal” is constantly evolving. We have taken out a couple of regular features in order to make room for voices around the city to talk about how their businesses have been affected and how they continue to adapt. We know that we are all in this together. Thank you for continuing to be a part of our extended family. We look forward to a long, long friendship with you. Cheers,

Tina Jones 12 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com


From South Africa with Love

Authenticity in each bottle! A chance meeting between an Aussie (Mick Craven) and a South African (Jeanine) turned into Craven Wines. “In 2011 we chose to locate in Stellenbosch, South Africa, a place for which we both have an affinity and which has such an amazing array of sites and terroir. It is perfect for the site-specific, honest wines we want to make. We work as minimally, albeit attentively, with the grapes as we do with the resulting wine in the cellar. We pay serious attention to the wine, but we do not manipulate the wine. Our wines are all 100% single vineyard, single variety wines. We let the grapes do the talking…”

C R AVEN

C R AVEN

C R AVEN

C R AV E N

Syrah $27.99

Pinot Gris $24.99

Cinsault $25.99

Chenin Blanc $25.99

Profoundly changing the Manitoba landscape from a pin-hole view of South African wine to a dazzling panorama.

Featured wines available at Banville & Jones.


ask a sommelier I like the idea of canned wines for the lake, but are any of them good? —Sam Bards Absolutely! There are some really great wines in a can and other small-format choices that are perfect for the cabin or if you just want to have 1 or 2 glasses of wine. My favourite wine in a can is from Union Wine Co. (Oregon) who produces a line called Underwood. Perfectly packaged in 375mL cans (that’s a half a bottle of wine!) you can choose Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Rosé, bubbly, or bubbly rosé! ($11.99). Just crack open and sip!

(and your deck) is typically too warm for reds. Lighter-style reds like Pinot Noir or Valpolicella should be served between 13 and 16°C, whereas Cabernet Sauvignon or Shiraz should be between 16 and 18°C. Since not all of us have perfectly temperaturecontrolled wine fridges, a good rule is to take your white wines out of the fridge for 20 to 30 minutes before serving and put your red wines in the fridge for 20 to 30 minutes before serving. —Saralyn Mehta

Another favourite small format wine is from Luis Felipe Edwards (Chile) who produces an adorable 4-pack of 187 ml bottles in Cabernet Sauvignon or Pinot Grigio ($14.99/pk)—each little bottle is one perfect glass of wine. Or, if you have a favourite wine that doesn’t already come in a small format, you can always pour your favourite wine in the amazing Corkcicle stemless cup ($37.99). This travel cup upgrade keeps your whites cold and your reds at the perfect temperature for hours. Enjoy!

I drink my white wines right out of the fridge. Is that the right temperature? —H. Wells

On the flip side, you don’t want to serve your red wines too warm. Just as your fridge temperature is too cold for whites, your home’s room temperature

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For hearty fare and bold flavours such as burgers, lamb, or smoked ribs, think big, bold flavours that can match in intensity. Chilean Carménère (like Veramonte Carménère, $18.99), South African Shiraz (like Heron Ridge’s O-Nine, $19.99) or an American red Zinfandel (like Precision Prototype Zinfandel, $19.99) would all be wonderful options. If you are looking for a great value wine, Botter Doppio Passo Primitivo ($14.99) has all the punch of an American Zinfandel without the price tag. For lighter fare, such as fish or grilled veggie kabobs, don’t get too hung up on rules. There is nothing I love more with a fresh summer BBQ than a glorious dry rosé. Paul Mas Claude Val Rosé ($13.99) is perfect for pleasing a crowd and pleasing the wallet on a hot summer day.

—Jill Kwiatkoski

A typical fridge is approximately 4°C. This is much too cold for most whites, as cold mutes the fruit aromas and flavours in your wine. Lighter whites like Pinot Grigio or Sauvignon Blanc are best between 7 and 10°C, whereas weighty whites like an oaked Chardonnay or Viognier are usually best served at a warmer temperature, up to 13°C—just slightly chilled.

herbs or Uncle Stan’s famous 13-hour smoked brisket? What sauces, rubs, or additional flavourings will be used? Sometimes these have a bigger impact on pairing!

What is a good BBQ wine? —Peter Handley Great question, but the better question may be “What ISN’T a good BBQ wine?” Much like the query, “Which wine goes with chicken?” the possibilities are limitless! Here are some questions that our wine experts will ask you when pairing for your BBQ: What is your protein: are we talking chicken, pork, beef, fish, or vegetarian delights? How will it be prepared: a light grill with fresh

Finally, don’t forget the bubbles! As often as we try to match flavours and intensities of wines, a beautiful pairing can be achieved through contrast. Bubbles are mouth-wateringly fresh and bright and can lift the heavy flavours of BBQ fare. I recommend Azienda Agricola Siro Merotto Extra Dry Prosecco ($21.99)—and don’t be fooled by the name: “Extra Dry” means there is just the slightest touch of sweetness in this easy-drinking bubbly. —Rebecca Lechman Our friend Rebecca passed away suddenly on March 29, 2020, as we were preparing this issue. We are happy to include her contribution here. IF YOU HAVE A QUESTION FOR OUR SOMMELIERS, TEXT US BETWEEN 9 AM AND 9 PM AT 204.400.0499 OR FIND US ON INSTAGRAM AND TWITTER @BANVILLEJONES.


It’s Here, It’s New, It’s Easy! Our new website has launched. Visit www.thecheesemongers.ca to order your cheese and provisions. • • • • • • •

*NEW* Online Shop Cut to order cheese counter Exclusive provisions and pantry items Cheese, Charcuterie, and Grazing boards Guided tastings and classes Cheese of the Month Club subscriptions Cheese wheel cakes for weddings, birthdays, and anniversaries

839 Corydon Ave (corner of Lilac and Corydon) | 204.691.7555


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Friends of Banville & Jones Wine Co. 1. Jonathon and Lindsay Bray; 2. Les and Terry Wiens; 3. Ken and Carol MacKenzie; 4. Harry Hertscheg, Executive Director, Vancouver Wine Festival, Jill Kwiatkoski, and Ken Collura, Kenvino Enterprises at the Vancouver International Wine Festival; 5. Rick Watkins, Mike Muirhead, Tina Jones, Claire Back, Director of Australia Good Food & Wine, Ros and Prof Lynn of Majella Wines, Australia; 6. Robert and Susan Fedoruk; 7. Bob and Lynne Rehbein; 8. Dawn and Mark Popovich.

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Welcome, Lynn Walker! Banville & Jones Wine Co. is very excited to introduce a new member of our team. Lynn Walker joined us as our General Manager in January 2020. She has been working hard to learn everything about Banville & Jones—and you, our customers. Lynn comes from a diverse background that suits Banville & Jones extremely well. She grew up in the Earls environment, surrounded by a team whose mantra was Great Food, Great People. The team focused on quality and customer service—and having a ton of fun doing what you love. In 2010, Lynn left Earls to focus on raising her daughter and attended the University of Winnipeg, completing her HR designation. We are loving the fresh perspective that Lynn has brought to the wine store. She has been quick to pick up our customer-centred approach and spent the first six months of her time here nurturing the relationships we have with our customers, restaurant partners, winery partners, and our Banville & Jones team. Mike Muirhead continues his role as Vice President, with special attention to some exciting new projects. Please join us in welcoming Lynn to the team! Tina Jones President, Banville & Jones Wine Co.

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OUR RESILIENT MANITOBA

When the first rumblings of the word “pandemic” started back in January, most Manitobans took it in stride. Nothing could prepare us for what was coming, and how quickly. Winnipeg businesses have learned that adaptability and patience in the face of unprecedented uncertainty— and, yes, sometimes panic—are crucial to business survival in the foreseeable future.

Tina Jones, Banville & Jones Wine Co. We are very grateful that we were allowed to stay open during the shutdown. Because everything was so uncertain, we decided to close retail traffic and moved our business to curb-side pickup and delivery. Watching restaurants shut down was like watching a bad movie: more than 50% of our business was affected. We’re hopeful that all of our restaurant partners will come back; unfortunately, this won’t be the case. We have re-opened retail with a new focus: shop local, globally. We have refined our wine selection to represent farmers and winemakers who we have built relationships with over the years and whose business values reflect our own: family-run, sustainable, producing quality wines for good value.

Jeremy Epp, IJL Because we made a decision early to keep the staff on, we invited people to come to work for 3 hours a day, and made the best of the time. We redid our entire inventory system, and added lots of new inventory to our website. Our in-house designer took the time to design a special line of pendants, the Aurora Collection, whose sales will support one of our favourite charities, Ronald McDonald House.

Jen Goreski, UN Luggage Laying off people that have worked for you for 20 years is heartbreaking. Even though the government said we could re-open, people who work in the downtown businesses are staying home. Restaurants, theatres, and bars are closed—there is no one walking by. We have our online store, and we are here every day for people who are travelling downtown specifically to shop here, but until travel starts again, we are just waiting and hanging on. 18 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com


Michael Graham and Lise Belanger, Frescolio Fine Oil & Vinegar Our regular customers not only supported the store by using our delivery service, they also chipped in when we joined Local Futures. This crowdfunding program allowed us and other local companies to raise emergency funds in exchange for future discounts. It is an investment in our business’s future by customers who want to help their favourite stores stay open, which means a lot to us.

Randy and Beaujena Reynolds, Beaujena’s French Table These have been trying times, but we are still thriving. We closed in early March and have been finding other ways to stay busy. We buy all of our proteins from two Manitoba farms—Fresh Roots Farm and Luna Field Farm. These farms do a farm-to-eater delivery to Winnipeg every few weeks and we have joined their deliveries to offer our homemade French-meets-Polish potato dumplings. It has been keeping us busy and keeping our name out in the community until we re-open July 10.

Danny van Lecker and Jillian Flynn, Rae’s Bistro We closed a week before the shutdown to prepare a new business model, mail out new menus, and design a custom delivery service that would keep our employees working. We are standing by our model of excellent service, quality food, and taking care of our staff—and it’s been working. Instead of reacting to every new development, we are trying to predict and prepare for the future. We are preparing to re-open June 23 in hopes that Manitoba keeps up the great work of staying healthy and Phase 3 arrives on time.

Charlie Spiring, Wellington-Altus The current COVID-induced market conditions have enhanced our belief in our strategic game plan. First and foremost, ensuring our clients are secure in not only their financial goals but also in their life goals. It has never been more important to foster client relationships and guide them in getting through these difficult times. We are prepared to get the grey hair, not our clients! On the corporate side, we are continually innovating and pushing ourselves to excel in our multiple product and service offerings. We have built a strong management team and are advancing in technological innovations, to name a few. There is a good reason why we are the most successful retail investment firm in Canadian history. We are most proud that we have achieved this while maintaining our head office in Winnipeg. At Wellington-Altus our entrepreneurial spirit is alive and well.

Chris Voogt, Canadian Western Bank Thousands of Canadians continue to need immediate support to relieve financial stress and uncertainty caused by COVID-19. At the first sign of economic hardship due to the virus, CWB’s Relationship Managers met the need by channelling robust client relationships with business owners, understanding each situation, and offering a framework of support options that suit each unique short- and medium-term financial case.

Ray DuBois, Ron Paul Garden Centre We have always carried fun food items like dips, sauces, and hot pots; however, as an independent Federated Coop store, we shifted to essentials—groceries and hardware, with a focus on delivery, just to stay open. Phase 2 opened up retail just in time for May long weekend, and now we are busier than we could have ever planned for. With people staying home and vacations cancelled, people are focusing on making their homes and yards an oasis. The biggest risk to the business right now is that someone comes in and infects our staff or other customers, so we are actively working to be safe and practice social distancing. www.banvilleandjones.com 19


Patricia Veert, Selective Professionals Network With this time of much isolation, we have seen increased interest in our services from single professionals seeing the benefit of companionship. Despite—and also due to—the pandemic, there is very much a need for a better, safer option for singles to meet. Life does not wait, and people want to continue to meet. As we wait for a safer time to schedule in-person meetings, we have been modifying the way we introduce clients by offering virtual meetings.

Becky and Garry Parkes, Royal LePage Dynamic Real Estate When everything first shut down we were able use the down time to support our other team member— our son—who suddenly had two kids to home school. The market recovered quickly though, and a lot of people want to buy homes! The biggest concern we are hearing right now is what is the best timing for selling homes. We have been busy on the phone, trying to help people make decisions, sending information. Making clients feel comfortable about the process is our priority right now.

Lifting Up the Vulnerable In true Manitoban fashion, many businesses recognized that Winnipeg charities are also struggling. Annual themed or gala events fund a good portion of many charities’ annual operating and programming costs. In addition, lost wages means that financial support that they count on from the community dries up. “We at Banville & Jones have always known that our community relies on the best of our volunteers, our giving, our relentless ability to understand hardships,” says Tina Jones. “We come together, we empathize, and we contribute. It’s a time when giving really changes lives.” When Banville & Jones shifted to delivery and curb-side pickup, we found an opportunity to give back: all of the delivery fees from March, April, and May were donated to HSC Foundation’s Feeding the Front Lines campaign, which delivers food to frontline healthcare workers. The Merchant Kitchen also fed the community, with a donation of 480 prepared meals to 1JustCity’s three city sites, which have continued to offer meals and shelter to vulnerable Winnipeggers throughout the pandemic. Some businesses are using the time to supplement ongoing support to local charities. Law firm Fillmore and Riley, which is a long-time supporter of Fort Whyte, sponsored their #GivingTuesdayNow campaign, matching donations and annual pledges up to $7,500, ultimately contributing to the $17,000 to replace income lost during their closure. Manitoba has a reputation for being one of the most philanthropic provinces in Canada. When our business community sees that the vulnerable are struggling, we know just how to get through this—as a community.

THANK YOU to all those on the front lines working tirelessly to keep us safe, supplied, and healthy.

You truly are

heroes!


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“I promised myself I would return to Tuscany and make the best wine in Italy.” —Pierluigi (Louie) Tolaini (1936–2020) When Louie Tolaini left his Tuscan home in the late 1950s to emigrate to Canada, he hoped for a better life in a new place. What he achieved was a life that built a better world. We celebrate the visionary who built the unparalleled Canadian transport company, TransX; who returned to his home region of Tuscany to create the incomparable Tolaini Estate wines; and who inspired his daughter, Tina Jones, to have the vision to build great teams, work hard, and continually reach for excellence.

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Rebecca Lechman (1977–2020) Rebecca was an intrinsic and beloved part of the Banville & Jones family for 7 years. She was the first to say hello, the first to give her opinion, and the first to offer help. She was the mother hen of our staff, always there to take coworkers under her wing and help them shine. Rebecca was terrifically honest and had a wicked sense of humour. We celebrate her accomplishments—from earning her Sommelier designation to becoming a key member of our teaching faculty. Her spirit will live on among us with this mantra to guide us: What Would Rebecca Do? To honour Rebecca, every March will now be Chardonnay Month (her favourite) at Banville & Jones. Proceeds from all March Chardonnay sales will be put in an educational trust fund for Rebecca’s niece, Aneska, who meant the world to her. Cheers to you Rebecca, truly one of a kind.

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Photo by Ian McCausland

GARY’S CORNER

Of Green Apples and Milk By Gary Hewitt, DipWSET, CWE, FWS, Sommelier Aromas of butter, cream, buttered toast, and popcorn kernels—yum, but is it wine? Is it Chardonnay? You bet, and it is all thanks to microscopic friends with a history. In days past, as cold winter warmed into spring and sap rose in the vines, some casks and bottles of finished wine, warming gently in winery cellars, grew hazy and lightly sparkling. Producers in Portugal’s Vinho Verde region trapped the fizz to make fresh and lively lightly sparkling wines that they sold in opaque bottles—that is, until modern filtration techniques allowed them to make the wines perfectly clear. Other vignerons, especially of red wines, recognized that this was just a phase and, given time, wines would recover with improved mouthfeel and reduced vegetal character. However, the explanation of the phenomenon remained unknown. Louis Pasteur’s discovery in the mid-1800s of yeast’s role in converting grape sugars into alcohol and carbon dioxide, a process known as alcoholic fermentation, was long thought to be the sole role of microorganisms. But microbiological work in the late 19th century revealed that many microbes are active in wine, sometimes causing spoilage but sometimes to good effect. Malolactic fermentation (MLF or la malo en français) turned out to be the reason for springtime fizz. MLF is a bacterial process that converts malic acid into lactic acid. Malic acid is the main acid in green apples, and, in fact, it derives its name from the Latin genus name for apples, Malus. Not surprisingly, malic acid in wine imparts a fresh green apple character. However, and especially in wines made from underripe grapes, malic acid levels can be tart and aggressive. Lactic acid, on the other hand, is softer and less aggressive. Lactic acid is named for the Latin word for milk, lac, and brings creamy, buttery notes to wines. A simple way to think about MLF is that it changes green apples to milk. During the conversion to lactic acid, malic acid liberates carbon dioxide. The carbon dioxide dissipates or, if trapped,

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dissolves in the wine to become fizz. The conversion also reduces a wine’s total acidity (i.e., softens the wine) and changes the taste. MLF after bottling likewise creates gas, haze, and odd flavours so that the wine is commonly deemed spoiled. However, if the winemaker gets it right, MLF creates a more stable product. A host of lactic acid bacteria (LABs) metabolize malic acid. LABs occur naturally on grapevines and on winery surfaces, such as the insides of barrels. Commercial LAB isolates are available that allow greater process control of MLF, but it remains a winemaker’s decision whether or not to use wild or inoculated strains. The key MLF protagonist is a bacterium called Oenococcus oeni, whose name is clearly inspired by its oenological (i.e., pertaining to wine and winemaking) origins. O. oeni runs a clean house, producing mostly lactic acid, but other LABs run all over the place, metabolizing substrates other than malic acid, and produce a wide range of flavours. Acetic acid (of vinegar fame), for example, can reach moderate levels that “lift” wine aromatics or high levels that turn wine to vinegar. A really distinctive product of MLF is diacetyl, a compound that imparts hazelnut and toasty flavours at low concentrations but at high concentrations imparts strong butter, buttered-popcorn or even rancid character. Diacetyl played a big role in the 1970s creation of Big Buttery Chardonnays, wines softened by MLF and adorned with the vanilla and spice of new oak. At the time, consumers were unfamiliar with the complex, nutty, toasty Chardonnays from Burgundy that inspired New World winemakers. But they sure loved the fat, overt, powerful Chardonnays coming out of California and Australia, so much so that the style persists today. However, the faithful must hunt for the now nearly mythical Big Buttery Chard from the few producers still willing to comply by throwing MLF restraint to the wind. Almost all red wines pass through MLF, but only some white wines do so. Grapes with a strong varietal character such as Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc do not play well with MLF, but Chardonnay, “the winemaker’s grape,” has a great affinity for MLF’s nutty, creamy, buttery, butterscotch, yogurt, and caramel traits. So now you know what the sap-watching old vignerons did not: that LABs perform MLF, change green apples to milk, and soften wine. Bring this up next time there is a lull in conversation! 


Perfect wines for gardens and grills this summer from Pascual Toso. One of Argentina’s oldest wineries, Pascual Toso was founded in 1890 and remains family owned.


GLUGGY

Rosé All Summer By Jill Kwiatkoski, Sommelier Yes, that’s right, folks: it’s a new rosé season! Let’s bring on the pretty pink elixir to dance on your palate. The new rosé season will make you want to sing in the sunshine and dance on your deck. Oh man, does rosé ever make me happy! Can you feel that excitement of summer and all the gloriousness that goes along with it: the warm sunshine hitting your face, the beach calling your name, the smell of a good BBQ in the air, the long summer nights just waiting for you to enjoy? Well, those times are here, my wine-loving friends! With over 90 rosés to choose from, Banville & Jones has the best selection you will see in the city—if not the country. So let’s raise a glass, and let the summer explode with beautiful flavours!

Pinuaga 2019 Tempranillo/Garnacha Rosé Tierra de Castilla, Spain ($15.99) Ah, Spain! How you melt my heart! I love this country, and I absolutely love this wine. A bright, beautiful blend of two of Spain’s signature grape varieties, Tempranillo and Garnacha, this gorgeous rosado (en español) is as cheerful and lovely as its producer. Full of life, vibrancy, and body, this rosé packs a punch with big notes of fresh raspberries, tart cranberries, and juicy watermelon. It is quite fruit-forward but dry, with a long, clean finish. Pair with: spicy dishes, grilled pork or chicken, and a variety of tapas.

Fattoria di Celle 2018 Pina Rosato Tuscany, Italy ($19.99) This rosato (in italiano) took my breath away at a tasting in Tuscany at the beginning of this year. It stood out from hundreds of wines, not only for its beautiful dedication to the owner’s mother (who is represented on the label art by the single rose on a bench overlooking the winery) but specifically for its elegance. Made from 100% Sangiovese, this rosé is simply gorgeous. It is one of only three wines produced at this extremely small, family-run winery. With beautiful notes of strawberry, black cherry, and a hint of dried cranberry and rhubarb, this lovely perfumed rosato is clean and fresh with a gorgeous, lingering finish. Pair with: appetizers, meats and cheeses, grilled white fish, and seafood.

Chantovent 2019 Félines Rosé Languedoc, France ($20.99) This lovely rosé is as pretty as its innovative “Paris” bottle. Uniquely sealed, the classic Vinolok™ closure will keep this rosé fresh. This beautifully pale pink Syrah/Cinsault blend has wonderful notes of wild strawberries, white peach, and a hint of pink grapefruit. Pair with: fresh summer salads, mussels and clams, ceviche, and cold shrimp.

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TH Wines 2019 Rosé Okanagan Valley, Canada ($28.99) Oh, Canada! Well, our beautiful country is certainly not the first that comes to mind when we talk about rosés—however, they sure have made their mark at TH Wines. This unique beauty has finally made a comeback after a two-year hiatus of production, and, sadly, it is the last vintage: our friend Tyler is closing TH Wines and moving on to the next chapter in his life. We were lucky to snag the last few cases of this gem! TH rosé is summer in a glass, with beautiful notes of strawberry, peach, zesty citrus pith, and pomegranate that linger on your palate. Pair with: veggie and fish dishes; Tyler recommends trying it with cedar-plank salmon.

Tempus Two 2019 Silver Series Rosé South Australia, Australia ($12.99) From a well-known brand that our customers have fallen in love with, Tempus Two brings us this pretty, pale pink rosé from southeastern Australia. It is fresh, lively, fun, and meant for immediate drinking. With notes of young strawberries and cream with a slight hint of citrus, this pretty little number is bright and fresh with a clean finish. This is a great wine to just sip on its own on a warm summer day. (Available July 2020) Pair with: fresh salads, grilled seafood, and vegetables.

Caves de Lugny nv Crémant de Bourgogne Rosé, France ($26.99) So pretty and so beautiful! This elegant bubbly made in the méthode traditionnelle (in the same way Champagne is produced) is a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Gamay. Notes of strawberries, red currant, a hint of peach, fresh bread, and a slight floral note encompassed by a lively yet fine mousse dance on the palate with a clean, crisp mineral finish. Pair with: light hors d’oeuvres, summer salads, fresh fruit, nuts, and even chips & dip!

Bertolani Alfredo nv Rosato Lambrusco Emilia-Romagna, Italy ($16.99) If you haven’t ventured into the world of Lambrusco yet, this lovely rosato Lambrusco is a great start! Soft bubbles show notes of raspberries, red licorice, pomegranate, dried cranberries, with a hint of roses and spice. This is the perfect crisp bubbly rosé to sip on a weekend afternoon. Simply lovely! Pair with: appetizers, meats, and cheeses.

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Chardonnay’s Roots:

FROM BURGUNDY TO THE NEW WORLD

By Sylvia Jansen, DipWSET, CSW, Sommelier


Street signs in France, guiding us through Burgundy’s wine regions

The Birthplace of Chardonnay

stone archways at vineyard entrances and the modest brown and white road signs marking the route des Grands Crus. Only a few precious vine varieties are grown: the primary red is Pinot Noir and the most revered white, Chardonnay.

Long before we began to pay attention to what grape varieties made the wine in our glasses; long before anyone thought about planting any grapevines in California, or South Africa, or Australia; and, in fact, long before the latest tiny virus stopped the world in its tracks, Chardonnay was a player in fine wine.

The vineyards of the Côte d’Or—and the fame of Chardonnay—owe a debt of gratitude to the monasteries that occupied these parts for hundreds of years. Wine was part of their daily life as well as their income, and the monks who occupied them were good farmers. Moreover, they were literate and good record-keepers. They had a long view, tracking the performance of certain vineyard plots over many vintages. With these tools, they learned over time that some plots consistently produced higher quality wines than others. The best few plots were dubbed Grand Cru (“great growth”); others just below this rank, Premier Cru (“first growth”). They were given names like CriotsBâtard-Montrachet, some with hand-built stone walls that still stand. It is a tribute to that long-term research that these names still produce mighty fine, albeit expensive, wines.

Whereas clothing fashion trends can last a season, the wine fashion of Chardonnay has been on trend for centuries. The white wines of Burgundy were sought after by nobles, royalty, and empire-builders; Chardonnay-dominated Champagnes have been darlings for hundreds of years; and winemakers in many places in the world have turned their hand to this variety to show their stuff. Chardonnay is so familiar to wine lovers everywhere that many would be hard-pressed to say where it originated and why it came to be so dominant in the wine world. The story has a lot to do with fame, as well as feasibility and fashion. Chardonnay’s home is in the heart of Burgundy (Bourgogne, en français) in central France, where vineyards of the Côte d’Or (the “golden slopes”) rise up unassumingly along the regional two-lane D974. Passing stone houses, tiled roofs, and church spires marking each village, the route is crisscrossed by many smaller local roads. At certain times of the season, these roadways are occupied by small threewheeled winery vehicles, vineyard machinery occupying both narrow lanes, or small trucks toting baskets of newly harvested grapes to wineries. It is a decidedly rural place, and one not given to advertising that around many corners are inns sporting Michelin stars and vineyards that have been cultivated for centuries. At times, the only hints of the region’s importance are wine lovers taking selfies in front of

From the Côte d’Or Domaine Xavier Monnot 2017 Les Grandes Coutures Chardonnay Bourgogne, France ($44.99) Henri Boillot 2016 Blanc Bourgogne, France ($56.99) Domaine Rollin 2017 Blanc Pernand-Vergelesses, France ($45.99) Jean-Louis Chavy 2017 Puligny-Montrachet, France ($89.99)

South and north of the historic Côte d’Or also stretch important Chardonnay strongholds, including the rolling countryside of the Côte Chalonnaise and the Mâconnais (Chardonnay’s actual birthplace is around here—in fact, there is a village named Chardonnay). Further north lies the hillside vineyards of Chablis. Even further north and east stretches Champagne, where Chardonnay accounts for almost a third of the plantings and is a base for bubbles.

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Iconic stone pillars guard the Montrachet Grand Cru vineyard (Photo by Gary Hewitt)

More recent history has seen the large southern France region Languedoc plant significant vineyard area to Chardonnay. However, its appearance there was not so much a response to the fame of Burgundy and Champagne but to the massive uptake of Chardonnay in the New World in the late-20th century.

Travels Abroad Chardonnay’s style has flowed with the fashions, at times big, oaky, and bold, at times lighter and fresher, but its hold has been secure.

North and South Pascal Berthier 2018 Roxanne Blanc Mâcon-Chaintré, France ($23.99) Domaine Bernard Defaix 2018 Chablis, France ($39.99) Domaine des Homs 2019 Chardonnay, Pays d’Oc, France ($17.99) Roses de Jeanne 2015 Haut-Lemble Blanc de Blancs Champagne, France ($169.99)

It is a remarkable hold by a single grape variety once tended quietly by monks in medieval France. Chardonnay has proved it can flow with fashion, run with nobles, and generally make the lives of humans lovely, one glass at a time. 

The variety is amenable to varying climates, growing seasons, and winery treatments. Because of that adaptability, most countries in Europe have significant plantings. Chardonnay has also found its way to many other parts of the world, including North and South America, South Africa, and Australia, to name only a few. California’s 1970s wine boom gave Chardonnay a big lift. Until then, wines were not marketed by grape variety, but by generic, European-sounding brand names, largely in jug style: those of a certain vintage will remember names like California “Burgundy” and “Chablis”—wines that bore little resemblance to their namesakes. Encouraged to produce higher-quality wines, a few California producers began to label wines by dominant grape variety, rather than adopting a whimsical or even misleading brand name. Wine labelled “Chardonnay” began appearing on wine shelves, accompanied by the likes of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Other New World countries soon followed suit. The 1980s alone saw the world’s vineyard area quadruple. By 2010, the world’s vineyard area had doubled from that number. Recent figures show that Chardonnay is still one of the world’s most planted grape varieties for wine. If all the world’s Chardonnay vines were gathered together, they would cover all of France’s plantable vineyard area. 32 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com

In this 1970s ad, Orson Wells sells Paul Masson’s early vintages of California “Pinot Chardonnay.”


CHARDONNAY:

THE FACTS ORIGINATED: Burgundy, France

UNDER VINE: 2nd most planted white in the world: 210,000 ha across 41 countries CHARACTERISTICS: incredible versatility: light to full body, medium to high acidity, dry ALIASES: Chablis, (most) Blanc de Blancs (Champagne), Burgundy/Bourgogne (white), Meursault, (most) Mâconnais PRICE RANGE: $10–$10,000+

Primary flavours (from the grape): green and yellow apple, peach, pear, apricot, floral, lemon, starfruit, pineapple, mango, banana

Secondary flavours (from production: oak, winemaking): toast, smoke, butter, cream, vanilla

Tertiary flavours (from ageing): honey, dried apricot, almond, hazelnut, walnut, orange peel

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Cottage Case or Couch Case? … either way, we’ve got you covered!

Banville & Jones Cottage Cases are available from the May long weekend through the September long weekend. Classic Red Case: $139.99 for 12 dry reds (3 x 4 different reds)

Classic White Case: $139.99 for 12 dry whites (3 x 4 different whites)

Rosé Case: choice of $169.99 for 12 (4 kinds) or $84.99 for 6 (3 kinds) bottles of dry rosés

Mixed Case: $179.99 for a baker’s dozen (2 x 2 different whites, 2 x 3 different reds; 1 x 2 rosé; and 1 special red, hand-picked by our Sommeliers) Save up to $25 per case!

Four ways to order: Online: banvilleandjones.cornervine.com Call: 204.948.WINE (9463) Text: 204.400.0499 Email: wine@banvilleandjones.com

Reserve Red Case: $199.99 for 12 special reds (3 x 4 different reds)

Next-day delivery to your door for just $12 (within city limits) 1616 St Mary’s Rd, Winnipeg, MB

Store Hours: Monday to Saturday: 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. | Sunday and holidays: 12 p.m. to 6 p.m. Due to our unique times, store hours are subject to change. Please visit our website for current store hours and safety measures.


LET US ENHANCE YOUR NATURAL BEAUTY. 100-1020 LORIMER BLVD., WINNIPEG, MB R3P 1C7 PH: (204) 272-9699 | FAX: (204) 943-8393 | WEB: WESTERNSURGERYCENTRE.COM FOLLOW US ON FACEBOOK AND TWITTER

Modern interpretations of French and Mediterranean cuisine combined with warm hospitality make dining at Beaujena’s special, regardless of the occasion. Open exclusively on Friday and Saturday evenings By reservation only SO GIDDY, WE OVER-TIPPED. The food was striking, surprising, intriguing, from plate to plate

In the heart of St. Boniface at 302 Hamel Ave.

—Beamsville, Canada

www.beaujenas.com | 204.233.4841 | beaujenasfrenchtable@gmail.com


BEHIND THE LABEL

Domaine Rollin Père et Fils By Saralyn Mehta, Sommelier The name “Domaine Rollin Père et Fils” seems an understatement when you realize that it encapsulates four generations of family history—four generations of Rollin fathers and sons working some of the finest vineyards in Burgundy. The operation started in the 1940s when Raymond Rollin, a hard-working vineyard labourer, cobbled together his savings to purchase several parcels of vines to call his own in his small village of Pernand-Vergelesses in Burgundy, France. He worked the land, selling his annual harvest grapes to wineries in the region. It was not until 1955 that the grapes from these plots would be bottled for commercial sale under the Rollin name, an endeavour that was spearheaded by Raymond’s son Maurice. Maurice’s passion for the vines, the wines, and the village of Pernand-Vergelesses established a following for the family’s offerings. These early bottlings made it possible for the family to purchase additional vineyards, including an exceptional piece of land in Île des Vergelesses, arguably the most important Premier Cru in the village. By the mid-1970s, Maurice’s son Rémi joined the family vineyard. As they planted more land (up to 10 hectares by 1980), they expanded their operation and—thanks to Rémi’s wife Agnès’s marketing prowess—their reach. They began construction on the family’s own winery in order to meet the growing demand for their exquisite wines in France and abroad. By the mid-1990s, all vines were being used to produce wines strictly under the family label. In 2003, Rémi’s son Simon, followed by his wife, Caroline, in 2009, represented the fourth generation to join the family business. It was a chance meeting between two Sommeliers a world apart that brought Domaine Rollin to Manitoba. In the early 2000s, 529 Wellington Sommelier Christopher Sprague happened to cross paths with Burgundian Sommelier Cyril Blot. He spoke about the Domaine Rollin wines and their commitment to family and community with such passion that Christopher made a stop in Burgundy a priority the next time he was in France. His first of many visits to the winery was in 2008. “What stays with me most after each visit to Domaine Rollin is that their hands are always dirty,” says Christopher. “They 36 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com

Banville & Jones carries the following Domaine Rollin Père et Fils wines from Burgundy, France: Bourgogne 2017 Aligoté ($25.99); Les Cloux Chardonnay 2017 Pernand-Vergelesses ($79.99); Chardonnay 2017 Pernand-Vergelesses ($45.99); Chardonnay Grand Cru 2016 Coton-Charlemagne ($169.99); Pinot Noir Premier Cru 2014 Île des Vergelesses ($80.99); Les Fichots Premier Cru 2017 Pinot Noir Pernand-Vergelesses ($63.99); Pinot Noir 2017 PernandVergelesses ($45.99).

spend all their time invested in the terroir, the vines, the wines. They are less interested in the chachet of the wines than they are in highlighting what the village has to offer. They are, at their core, farmers who produce fruit that exemplifies what care and passion can put in a bottle.” The Rollin family shows their passion for the land and its people in their sustainable practices: their commitment to respecting the natural balances of flora and fauna, soil integrity, and the well-being of the people who work the land and produce the wine. The winery has been certified sustainable by Terra Vitis, which sets social and environmental sustainability standards from vineyards to production in the French wine industry. This integrity results in truly special wines that offer an honest expression of both the land and the grapes. The winery produces single-varietal wines that are synonymous with Burgundy’s pedigree—Pinot Noir and Chardonnay— along with a white wine featuring what Christopher describes as Burgundy’s “underdog grape,” Aligoté. “These wines have a cellar-ability that is hard to believe when held up to the price tags associated with other famous vineyards of Burgundy,” says Christopher. “On a visit with Gary and Sylvia to Domaine Rollin, Maurice invited us into his private library of the wines. He very generously opened a 1990 Domaine Rollin Premier Cru Île des Vergelesses. As we sat there chatting, I took a sip. I could feel that wine take hold of my emotions, and I realized I was crying. It was such a special moment to be brought to tears by a wine so pure, elegant, and expressive.” Each generation of the Rollin family has brought something special to the winery, but the family ethic of hard work and dedication to the terroir is what ultimately makes these classic Burgundian wines unforgettable. 


Shop Local, Globally At Banville & Jones, we build relationships with winemakers whose wines and practices we believe in. By shopping at our store, you are not only supporting a local business, you are supporting farmers and small business owners around the globe— and getting the highest-quality, best-value wines in the world. When you support a local business like Banville & Jones, we bring the world to you.

The Jean-Luc Baldes vineyard team harvests Malbec grapes in the Cahors AOC in southwest France


NICKELBACK AND THE INFINITE POSSIBILITIES OF CHARDONNAY By Mike Muirhead (ISG, CMS, Sommelier) and Sylvia Jansen (DipWSET, CSW, Sommelier)


Nickelback. It’s a name you didn’t expect to pop up in the pages of your favourite wine magazine, but as much as they are the band we all love to hate, this Canadian platinum-selling band—who are still filling stadiums all over North America—have made an indelible imprint on our culture. Admit it: when you are driving home from work, when that one Nickelback song comes on, and you are alone, you don’t change the station. You roll up all of the windows real tight, and you belt it out. Rock Star. That’s mine.

Maybe it’s because we have lived through the fashion for big, oaky Chardonnays that some wine lovers started the “ABC” reaction. Some wine lovers believe all Chardonnays still taste that way. The truth is that all Chardonnays were never all any way, and choices are especially varied right now.

Trying Not to Love You

Far Away

Why would I let you all have this glimpse into a dark part of my soul? It’s to make this point: Chardonnay is the Nickelback of wines. It is the grape variety everybody loves to hate. Even some of our geekiest wine friends, who know of the history and importance of the grape, will state: “I am ABC: Anything But Chardonnay,” like it is a badge of honour.

Chardonnay, like a Nickelback earworm, can find a home almost anywhere. It can produce a good crop in cool climates with relatively short growing seasons, like Chablis and Champagne in France, and Niagara in Canada. It can ripen well and produce a good crop in warm climates, like in Southern Australia and central California. And it can find a place anywhere in between these extremes. In general, cooler climates further from the equator produce Chardonnays with tart acidity that show tangy fruit character (apple, pear and citrus); warmer climates closer to the equator produce Chardonnays with softer acidity and tropical fruit character (pineapple, mango, banana). Moreover, if a producer wants to grow a lot of fruit for inexpensive wine, Chardonnay can produce a lot of fruit that ripens well and has some varietal character. If a producer owns a great vineyard site, has a great growing season, and wants to make something really special, well, Chardonnay is up to that challenge.

Here is the question, though: if it is the wine we all love to hate, why is Chardonnay so popular? Why is it the world’s second most planted white wine grape variety? In fact, when you take into account that the first most-planted is a white grape called Airén (used for oceans of brandy production in Spain), being second hardly counts. Really, Chardonnay is the ruler of the white wine world.

Bottoms Up There are reasons for its popularity: Chardonnay appeals to a lot of preferences and a lot of budgets. Chardonnay can be big and bold; it can be lean and crisp, or somewhere in between. Wine lovers who want to taste an icon and a through-the-roof experience can find that in Chardonnay. Anyone who wants something easy-going, cheap and cheerful, can find it in Chardonnay. If you enjoy mediumbodied whites that have good character and reflect their place of origin with honesty, let me pour you a glass ... of Chardonnay. If you like white wines that are rich, toasty oaky, and full-bodied, have we got a Chardonnay for you!

If we look at where and how grapes are grown and how wine is made, we can begin to understand why this variety is capable of so much.

In the winery, there is a broad range of choices, more so for Chardonnay than for most other white wine varieties. It has been dubbed “the winemaker’s grape” because it takes well to various treatments— or to minimal treatment. The choice of fermentation vessel makes a huge difference: stainless steel tanks are neutral, whereas new small oak barrels allow interaction with the air outside the barrels and impart characters of toast, vanilla, or nuts to the finished wine. Leaving the wine in contact with spent yeast cells from fermentation can also give a savoury, creamy character to the finished Chardonnay. And if winemakers want to soften acidity, they can use malolactic fermentation, resulting in buttery, creamy notes (Gary Hewitt explains in his column on page 24).

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Look What Your Money Bought You Of course, all of these choices have a huge impact on price and quality. Barrel fermentation and ageing, for example, mean that winemakers are purchasing a regular supply of oak barrels, at a cost of $1,000 to $2,000 per barrel. That investment needs to be justified in the selling price of the wine. Alternate ways of getting oak flavours into wine include placing oak staves (boards) into fermentation tanks or adding a bag of oak chips to the tank. Both give oaky flavours without either the air contact or mellowing that happens in barrel. These are a lot less expensive than barrel fermentation or ageing, so if your $15 Chardonnay has some of these flavours, it is likely the result of staves or chips.

What Are You Waiting For?

NIAGARA,

CALIFORNIA

Chardonnay may be the Nickelback of grape varieties, but that doesn’t mean it’s a bad thing. You may think you hate it, but we will wager that there is a style out there that you will secretly adore. If you don’t already have a secret favourite hiding in the back of your fridge, we will take it as our personal challenge to find one that will suit your particular palate. So you can go home, close the windows, draw the drapes, and crack it in the comfort of your own home when no one is looking. Go ahead, you Rockstar. 

CHILE

Cool Climate: Chablis, France, Niagara, Canada • Domaine Bernard Defaix Chablis, France ($39.99) • Tawse Estate Chardonnay, Canada ($39.99)

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CHARDONNAYS OF THE WORLD

CHABLIS, FRANCE

CANADA

CÔTE D’OR, MÂCONVILLAGES, POUILLYFUISSÉ, FRANCE

SOUTH OF FRANCE

SOUTHERN AUSTRALIA

Moderate Climate: Burgundy’s Côte d’Or, MâconVillages, Pouilly-Fuissé, France

Warm Climate: California, Southern Australia, Southern France, Chile

• Xavier Monnot Les Grandes Coutures

• Jax Vineyards Y3 Chardonnay Napa Valley,

Chardonnay Bourgogne, France $44.99 • Robert Perroud Terres Blanches Beaujolais-Village Chardonnay,

United States (39.99) • Montes Classic Series Chardonnay Central Valley, Chile ($17.99)

France ($21.99)

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QUIZ:

WINE MATCHMAKER At Banville & Jones, we are all about finding your perfect (wine) match. Take our simple quiz, and we can connect you with the best white to pair with your summer sipping! 1. What is your (current) favourite white wine grape variety? a. Sauvignon Blanc b. Pinot Grigio c. Chardonnay (and not afraid to admit it) d. I don’t like white wine 2. Do you prefer your wines to be: a. Light and tart b. Easygoing, all about the fruit c. Big and bold, rich and ripe d. Something to have a conversation about, not just over 3. What do you want to avoid in wine? a. Aromas other than fruit—don’t get weird on me b. Wines that are so full I could spread them on toast c. Wines that are thin and acidic d. Who avoids wine?! 4. Do you enjoy white wine . . . a. To refresh the palate and not drain the budget b. To go with starters and appetizers c. To pair with rich, interesting foods d. To pair with anything, so long as it can hold its own 5. In your opinion which of these is the best pairing? a. A refreshing white with a sunny patio and lots of good company b. A medium white with french fries c. A complex white with butter-sautéed fresh pickerel and a squeeze of lemon d. An elegant white with my secret recipe roast chicken

If you answered mostly “d”: Treat yourself to a complex classic like Jean-Louis Chavy Puligny-Montrachet (Burgundy, $89.99), the single vineyard Domaine Rollin Les Cloux Pernand-Vergelesses (Burgundy, $79.99), or an incredibly elegant allChardonnay Blanc de Blancs Champagne such as the Roses de Jeanne Haut Lemble 2015 Champagne (France, $169.99). If you answered mostly “c”: Try a warmer climate Chardonnay like McManis Family Vineyards Chardonnay (California, $22.99) or for something really special, Moone-Tsai Winery Chardonnay (Napa Valley, $103.99). If you answered mostly “b”: You will enjoy Chardonnays that have good acidity and some complexity, such as the classic Domaine Bernard Defaix Chablis (France, $39.99) or Blue Mountain Chardonnay Okanagan (Canada, $27.99). If you answered mostly “a”: You will enjoy unoaked, straightforward Chardonnays. Try Bon Courage Estates Unwooded Chardonnay (South Africa, $18.99) or Bodegas Alconde Viña Sardasol Chardonnay (Spain, $13.99). ANSWERS: Yes, we were talking about Chardonnay the whole time! To find a good Chard for you:


Available exclusively at


Civettina (chi-veh-TINA) is made from grapes hand selected by Tina Jones. Just ask us for the wine Tina made!


Sparkling Summer Fare With Sylvia Jansen, Gary Hewitt and WOW! Catering’s Chef Luc Jean Photos by Ian McCausland Summer has put us in the mood for one of life’s greatest pleasures: Champagne. We invited Chef Luc Jean, Executive Chef of Wow! Catering, to partner with our Sommeliers to create a perfect summer Champagne menu. Sylvia Jansen and Gary Hewitt stressed that the importance of pairing Champagne goes beyond simply flavours: you need to take into account the texture of the food and the fizziness of the wine. Champagne pairs wonderfully with rich, fatty foods, but can also take saltiness or a little citrus.

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Armed with their suggestions, Chef Luc sent us a beautiful three-course menu that would complement our versatile and luxurious bubbles: asparagus and leek vichyssoise, followed by veal chops with orange and green peppercorn sauce and ricotta basil gnudi, and finished off with French apple cake and candied bacon ice cream. We convened on one of the most beautiful and unique terraces in the city at 529 Wellington, where Sylvia sabered us some of the best sparklers at Banville & Jones.


CHILLED ASPARAGUS AND LEEK VICHYSSOISE Serves 6 500 g asparagus 1 tbsp butter 1 medium leek, white and tender green parts

only, thinly sliced 100 g potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks 1½ cups chicken stock ¾ cup water 1 large thyme sprig ¾ cup milk 1 tsp salt ¼ tsp ground pepper Garnish: Frescolio Leek Agrumato or Herbes de Provence-infused EVOO Beet chips Crème fraîche

Remove the woody ends from the asparagus and discard. Trim the tips from the stalks. Blanch the tips for one minute, drain, and rinse with cold water. Slice lengthwise and set aside to be sprinkled on the soup at the end. In a large saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Sauté the leeks for 5 minutes, then add the uncooked asparagus stalks, potatoes, chicken stock, water, and thyme. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low. Simmer covered for 25 minutes to cook the potatoes. Remove the thyme and purée the soup using a hand blender (or regular blender). Transfer the soup to a large bowl, add milk, salt, and pepper. Once cooled to room temperature, refrigerate for at least 4 hours (though overnight is even better). Serve the soup in chilled bowls, garnished with a swirl of olive oil, crispy beet chips, crème fraîche, and asparagus tips.

CHOOSE YOUR CHAMPAGNE: Delong Marlene nv Brut Cuvée Privilege Champagne, France ($59.99) Ployez Jacquemart nv 1999 Brut d’Harbonville Champagne, France (278.99) Jeeper nv Brut Grand Rosé Champagne, France ($104.99) Roses de Jeanne 2017 Val Vilane Blanc de Noir Champagne, France ($119.99) Marcel Vézien nv L’Illustre Brut Champagne, France ($48.99)

www.banvilleandjones.com 47


VEAL CHOP WITH ORANGE AND GREEN PEPPERCORN BUTTER AND RICOTTA BASIL GNUDI Serves 4 Veal Chops 4 4 tbsp 4 tbsp 4 tbsp

Veal Chops (about ¾ inch thick) fresh thyme, chopped extra virgin olive oil butter Salt and pepper

Season the veal chop with salt, cracked pepper, and chopped thyme leaves. Heat a large cast iron skillet over mediumhigh heat and add olive oil. Once hot, add the butter and add chops to the skillet. Cook the chops until golden brown, about 4 to 5 minutes per side. Remove the chops from the pan and let them rest for 5–8 minutes before serving.

Orange and Green Peppercorn Sauce ¼ cup 2 tbsp ¼ cup 2 tbsp 12

white wine orange concentrate cold, cubed butter green peppercorns orange wedges

Put the orange concentrate and white wine into a small stainless steel pot. Bring the mixture to a simmer and cook 5–10 minutes until it is thick. Bring the heat down to low and slowly whisk in the cold butter until it is blended. Add the green peppercorns and season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve the sauce with the veal chop and garnish with the fresh orange wedges.

Basil Ricotta Gnudi with Fava Beans 6 cups fresh basil 1 cup ricotta cheese ¾ cup all-purpose flour 1 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, separated 2 egg yolks, beaten ¼ tsp grated nutmeg 2 tsp ground pepper 2 tsp sea salt ½ lemon, juiced 1½ cups fava beans 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil* Boil a large pot of water, add basil, and blanch for one minute. Remove and quickly immerse in ice water. Once cold, squeeze out as much water as you can, and chop finely. 48 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com

Mix together ricotta cheese, ½ cup flour, ½ cup ParmigianoReggiano cheese, egg yolks, and nutmeg in a large bowl. Add basil, salt, and pepper and mix gently until well-combined. Do not overwork the dough. Dust your hands with flour and scoop out approximately 1 tbsp portions of dough. Form into small balls. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the juice from half a lemon to the water and gently drop in the gnudi. Boil in uncrowded batches for 3–4 minutes, until they float to the top. Remove gnudi with a slotted spoon and drain. If serving right away, toss with olive oil, prepared fava beans, and sprinkle with additional Parmigiano-Reggiano. *If you want to experiment, we recommend tossing the gnudi and beans with Frescolio’s Lemon infused or Bacon infused EVOO.


FRENCH APPLE CAKE WITH CANDIED BACON ICE CREAM Serves 4 1 cup 1 tsp ¼ tsp ½ cup cup 2 1 tsp 3 tbsp 2

all-purpose flour baking powder salt unsalted butter, at room temperature granulated sugar, plus more to sprinkle over cake large eggs vanilla extract apple liqueur Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and cut into 1/2 inch cubes

Garnish: Confectioner’s sugar Fresh raspberries

Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease a 9-inch springform with butter or nonstick cooking spray. (If using a regular cake pan, line the bottom of the pan with parchment paper and grease again.) In a small bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt and set aside. Using a handheld or a stand mixer, beat the butter and sugar until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add the eggs, one at a time, then beat in the vanilla and apple liqueur. Don’t worry if the batter looks grainy at this point; that’s okay. Add the flour mixture and mix on low speed until just combined. Using a rubber spatula, fold in the chopped apples. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and even the top. Sprinkle evenly with 1 tablespoon of granulated sugar. Bake for about 40 minutes, or until the cake is golden and a toothpick inserted into the centre comes out clean. Allow the cake to cool on a rack. Run a blunt knife around the edges of the cake. If using a springform pan, remove the sides. If using a regular cake pan, carefully invert the cake onto the rack, remove the parchment paper, then gently flip the cake over to place it right-side-up on a platter. Using a fine sieve, dust with Confectioner’s sugar (if using).

Candied Bacon Ice Cream Chef Luc gave us an amazing recipe for homemade ice cream. For the full ice cream recipe, visit poisepublications. com/blog. If you don’t have an ice cream maker, we recommend making the candied bacon and mixing it into your favourite vanilla ice cream to serve with the cake.

Candied bacon: 5 strips bacon about 2 teaspoons light brown sugar Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil or a silicone mat and lay bacon strips flat. Sprinkle brown sugar evenly over each strip of bacon. Bake for 12– 16 minutes. At about 7 minutes, flip the bacon strips over and drag them through the syrupy liquid that has collected on the baking sheet. When the bacon is a mahogany brown, remove from oven and cool the strips on a wire rack. Once crisp and cool, chop into little pieces and fold into your vanilla ice cream. (Bacon bits can be refrigerated for one day or frozen for a few weeks.)


SIDEBAR

Noble Love By Sylvia Jansen, DipWSET, CSW, Sommelier

Ask any wine professional for a list of “noble” vines, and you are likely in for an interesting conversation. Some will say there are as many noble vines as there are noble winemakers or noble grape growers. Some will argue that there exists a preciously short list of seven or so that might include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Syrah/Shiraz, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay. Others will say that omitting Nebbiolo or Sangiovese from the list is wrong. Some will argue that there is no such thing as vine nobility, just terroir— and winemaker— nobility. But what is it to be noble in the first place? That a particular vine makes something great and wonderful? Or conversely, that it must be rare and unusual as well as great? For me, I vote for both great and wonderful, and rare and unusual. A few varieties meet both criteria. Like many other wine lovers, I often celebrate my birthday by opening a nice bottle (or two). My friends and family often celebrate by adding to my cellar. On my last birthday, the gifts included a bottle of Corton-Charlemagne (a specific vineyard site for Chardonnay in central Burgundy, France) from a muchloved producer. As it happens, CortonCharlemagne is also inextricably woven with one of the magical moments that first drew me into a love of wine.

50 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com

The unlikely setting was a wine show, and the time was, well, a time long before mobile devices, electronic entry, and Apps for crowd wine reviews. A friend and I had paid the modest entry fee and purchased a strip of old-school tickets that could be exchanged for a taste of wine at the kiosks in the show. Each ticket cost 50 cents, and most wines were one or two tickets. It was only after a few samples (and before I knew the value of spitting) that we came across a wine that cost twelve tickets. At six dollars a taste, the cost was so outrageous that we seriously debated whether to spring for such a treat. Would it be worth it? Why taste something I cannot possibly afford? Finally, my friend and I agreed to share a taste. That totalled six tickets each, at the steep price of three whole dollars. But this taste changed my life. Suddenly, in the midst of a crowded, brightly-lit hall, it was as though the air itself changed. The intensity of the fruit, balanced by an incredible perfume, tingling acidity, honeyed tones, careful oak ageing, a hint of toasty nuts and a hundred other characteristics and nuances filled my palate and impressed themselves so firmly on my being that I felt I had been transported to another dimension where everything was beautiful. The power and elegance of this wine continued to unfold for

minutes, maybe hours. Not only did it pave the way for my eventual entry into the wine industry, but it also made me fall in love with an impossible, often unavailable, but always desirable, wine from a side of an arched sunny slope of Chardonnay vines in central France. Along with a few other vineyard sites in Burgundy, the slope was dubbed a “Grand Cru” (“great growth”), named by monks long ago and still known as CortonCharlemagne. That experience was possible because of the combination of a great vintage, a great place, a good hand from the place of origin to the bottle, and great vines, which are Chardonnay. A noble vine. As for all the other nominees, I know there are some stunning, noble vines, the wines from which have also moved me to tears. However, precious few of these have pulled me into another dimension the way that CortonCharlemagne wines have, more than once. It is a positively unreasonable love affair because this Grand Cru has managed to be priced far beyond the realm of a good Tuesday night wine. But occasionally, it is worth it, and occasionally, I am treated to it. So here’s to you, nobly. 


SUMMER STAYCATION AT FAIRMONT WINNIPEG You don’t need to leave Winnipeg to enjoy some R&R this summer — experience it right here in the heart of the city. We are pleased to offer a $25 credit towards dining, drinks, in-room movies or pet fee, complimentary self-parking, a 3pm late check-out, and free cancellation (24 hours prior to arrival).

Tel: (204)957 1350, or email at lom.dutymanager@fairmont.com. PROMO CODE: PUDT

THANK YOU, WINNIPEG! When we combined our Text a Sommelier Line with Text for Wine services, we were stunned by the usage: we answered over

21,000 texts in April alone for wine delivery and curb-side pick up!

Thank you for your support, and don’t forget to TEXT 204.400.0499 CALL 204.948.9463 EMAIL wine@banvilleandjones.com ... for next-day delivery or curb-side pickup!


culinary partners 529 Wellington serves only Canadian Prime beef and fresh seafood, with impeccable service in an elegantly restored 1912 mansion on the banks of the Assiniboine River. 529 has become a world-renowned icon in the restaurant industry. An exquisite menu and extensive wine cellar make for truly memorable food and wine experiences at 529. 529 Wellington Crescent 529wellington.ca

Regarded by many as one of the best restaurants in Winnipeg, Beaujena’s French Table provides a truly unique dining experience. Seven-course surprise dinners featuring Chef/Owner Randy Reynolds’ modern interpretations of French and Mediterranean Cuisine combined with his wife Beaujena’s warmth and hospitality make dining here special, regardless of the occasion. 302 Hamel Avenue beaujenas.com

Located in the Kildonan Park pavilion overlooking the duck pond, Prairie’s Edge offers a locally sourced, prairie-inspired menu, including favourites such as beet fritters, Arctic char, and brisket. The large dining room windows offer beautiful views of the park, or you can grab burgers, fries, or a fried chicken sandwich at their takeout window. Restaurant: Wednesday to Sunday, 10–8; Takeout Window: Wednesday to Sunday, 11:30–7:30. Pavilion in Kildonan Park prairiesedgewpg.ca

52 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com

Banville & Jones Wine Co. partners with Manitoba’s finest restaurants to develop the perfect wine list. For more information about partnering with us, contact Todd Antonation, todd@banvilleandjones.com

From the land to the table: fresh, local, house-made. These are the words we live by. Peasant Cookery strives for flavours that can only come from the best ingredients, prepared with exacting standards. We take dishes from the past and make them taste like they are from our own backyard. A Wine Spectator Award of Excellence wine list, and the service to match. Join us at our table on the corner of King & Bannatyne. 100-283 Bannatyne Avenue peasantcookery.ca

Across the Board Aevi Spa Salon Boutique Amsterdam Tea Room Canadian Brewhouse Café 22 Café Dario Chino’s Bistro (Steinbach) Cibo Waterfront Café Cordova Tapas & Wine D-Jay’s Restaurant Deluca’s Cooking School and Restaurant De Luca’s Specialty Foods Diana’s Cucina and Lounge Earl’s Restaurant and Bar Enoteca ERA Bistro at the Canadian Museum for Human Rights Fifth Hair Lounge and Beauty Bar Forth Frankie’s Italian Kitchen & Bar Good Earth Coffee House Gusto North

Carne is an elegant and contemporary Italian Chophouse featuring Waygu beef from Canada, USA or Japan as well as highend single-source beef from select suppliers across the country. Or choose succulent seafood, fresh pastas and Italian classics such as Osso Bucco. Pair these entrées with an exemplary wine and cocktail list. Carne is just steps away from the MTS Centre and The Forks. Private rooms are available. Open for dinner Monday–Saturday. 295 York Avenue carneitalia.ca

Hotel Fort Garry Hy’s Steakhouse Inferno’s Bistro Joey Restaurants Joey’s Only Seafood Jonesy’s Restaurant Junction 59 Roadhouse King & Bannatyne Kristina’s on Corydon La Roca Le Cercle Molière Local Public Eatery Máquè Manitoba Club McGee’s Family Restaurant Mere Hotel Mon Ami Louis Monticchio Ristorante Italiano Olive Garden Passero and Corto Pauline PF Chang’s Pizzeria Gusto Rae & Jerry’s Riverside Inn

Rose Bar Royal Manitoba Theatre Centre Sabai Thai SMITH Restaurant South Beach Casino & Resort St. Charles Country Club Swiss Chalet Tapp’s Neighbourhood Pub The Alt Hotel The Common The Magic Room and Spa The Merchant Kitchen The Mitchell Block The Oxbow The Roost The Victoria Inn The Wood Tavern Thermëa Spa Tony Roma’s Urban Prairie Cuisine Vera Cucina VG Restaurant at the Fairmont Wasabi Sabi


SHOPPING LIST ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰ ‰

Andeluna Cellars 2018 Finca Martha Malbec Mendoza, Argentina $16.99................................................................................ 54 Azienda Agricola Siro Merotto Extra Dry Prosecco Veneto, Italy $21.99.................................................................................... 14 Bertolani Alfredo nv Rosato Lambrusco Emilia-Romagna, Italy $16.99..................................................................................... 27 Blue Mountain 2017 Chardonnay Okanagan, Canada $27.99................................................................................................... 42 Bodegas Alconde 2018 Viña Sardasol Chardonnay Navarra, Spain $13.99................................................................................ 42 Bon Courage Estates 2019 Unwooded Chardonnay Robertson, South Africa $18.99................................................................. 42 Botter 2018 Doppio Passo Primitivo Puglia, Italy $14.99........................................................................................................... 14 Cantina Tonello 2018 Cloe Durella Veneto, Italy $19.99............................................................................................................ 54 Caves de Lugny nv Crémant de Bourgogne Rosé Burgundy, France $26.99................................................................................ 27 Chantovent 2019 Félines Rosé Languedoc Roussillon, France $20.99........................................................................................ 26 Corkcicle stemless cup $37.99.................................................................................................................................................... 14 Delong Marlene nv Cuvée Privilege Brut Champagne, France $59.99......................................................................................... 47 Domaine Bernard Defaix 2018 Chablis, Burgundy, France $39.99....................................................................................... 32, 43 Domaine des Homs 2019 Chardonnay, Pays d’Oc, France $17.99.............................................................................................. 32 Domaine Rollin 2017 Aligoté Burgundy, France $25.99............................................................................................................. 36 Domaine Rollin 2017 Blanc Pernand-Vergelesses, Burgundy, France $45.99......................................................................... 31, 36 Domaine Rollin 2016 Blanc Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, France $169.99......................................................... 36 Domaine Rollin 2014 Ile Des Vergelesses Premier Cru Burgundy, France $80.99........................................................................ 36 Domaine Rollin 2017 Les Fichots Pernand-Vergelesses, Burgundy, France $63.99...................................................................... 36 Domaine Rollin 2017 Les Cloux Pernand-Vergelesses Burgundy, France $79.99.................................................................. 36, 42 Domaine Rollin 2016 Rouge Pernand-Vergelesses, France $45.99.............................................................................................. 36 Domaine Xavier Monnot 2017 Les Grandes Coutures Chardonnay Burgundy, France $44.99................................................... 31 Fattoria di Celle 2018 Pina Rosato Tuscany, Italy $19.99........................................................................................................... 26 Henri Boillot 2016 Blanc Bourgogne, France $56.99.................................................................................................................. 31 Heron Ridge 2015 O-Nine Shiraz Stellenbosch, South Africa $19.99......................................................................................... 14 Jax Vineyards Y3 Chardonnay Napa Valley, United States 39.99................................................................................................ 41 Jean-Louis Chavy 2017 Puligny-Montrachet, Burgundy, France $89.99..................................................................................... 31 Jeeper nv Brut Grand Rosé Champagne, France $104.99............................................................................................................ 47 Luis Felipe Edwards 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon (4 pack) $14.99................................................................................................. 14 Luis Felipe Edwards 2018 Pinot Grigio (4 pack) $14.99............................................................................................................. 14 Marcel Vézien nv Brut L’Illustre Champagne, France $48.99...................................................................................................... 47 McManis Family Vineyards 2018 Chardonnay California, USA, $23.99..................................................................................... 42 Montes 2017 Classic Series Chardonnay Central Valley, Chie $17.99......................................................................................... 41 Moone-Tsai Winery 2017 Chardonnay Napa Valley, USA $103.99............................................................................................. 42 Pascal Berthier 2018 Roxanne Blanc, Mâcon-Chaintré, Burgundy, France $23.99...................................................................... 32 Paul Mas 2019 Claude Val Rosé Languedoc Roussillon, France $13.99..................................................................................... 14 Pierre Paillard nv Les Parcelles Bouzy Extra Brut Grand Cru Champagne, France $82.99.......................................................... 54 Pikes 2018 Hills and Valleys Riesling Clare Valley, Australia $18.99........................................................................................... 54 Pinuaga 2019 Tempranillo/Garnacha Rosé Tierra de Castilla, Spain $15.99............................................................................... 26 Ployez Jacquemart 1999 Brut d’Harbonville Champagne, France 278.99................................................................................... 47 Precision 2016 Prototype Zinfandel Lodi, California $19.99...................................................................................................... 14 Robert Perroud 2018 Terres Blanches Chardonnay Beaujolais-Village Burgundy, France $21.99................................................ 41 Roses de Jeanne 2015 Haut-Lemble Blanc de Blancs Champagne, France $169.99.............................................................. 32, 42 Roses de Jeanne 2017 Val Vilane Blanc de Noir Champagne, France $119.99............................................................................ 47 Selva Capuzza 2019 San Vigilio Turbiana Lugana, Italy $21.99.................................................................................................. 54 Tawse Vineyards 2018 Estate Chardonnay Niagara, Canada $39.99.......................................................................................... 40 Te Pa 2019 Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough, New Zealand $22.99.............................................................................................. 54 Tempus Two 2019 Silver Series Rosé South Australia, Australia $12.99..................................................................................... 27 TH Wines 2019 Rosé Okanagan Valley, Canada $28.99............................................................................................................. 27 Union Wine Co. nv Underwood Pinot Noir, (375 ml) $11.99..................................................................................................... 14 Union Wine Co. nv Underwood Pinot Gris, (375 ml) $11.99...................................................................................................... 14 Union Wine Co. nv Underwood Rosé, (375 ml) $11.99.............................................................................................................. 14 Union Wine Co. nv Underwood Bubbly, (375 ml) $11.99........................................................................................................... 14 Union Wine Co. nv Underwood Bubbly Rosé (375 ml) $11.99................................................................................................... 14 Veramonte 2017 Carménère Colchagua Valley, Chile $18.99...................................................................................................... 14 Xavier Monnot Les Grandes Coutures Chardonnay Bourgogne, France $44.99......................................................................... 41

Due to the nature of the wine industry, any prices and vintages listed in this publication, as well as the availability of all products, are subject to change and cannot be guaranteed by Banville & Jones Wine Co. www.banvilleandjones.com 53


* C U STOMER P IC K *

top picks

MURDOCH LEEIES

ALYONA LYUBYTSKA

LYNN WALKER

Pierre Paillard nv Les Parcelles Bouzy Extra Brut Grand Cru Champagne, France $82.99

Selva Capuzza 2019 San Vigilio Turbiana Lugana, Italy $21.99

Cantina Tonello 2018 Cloe Durella Veneto, Italy $19.99

The Les Parcelles Bouzy Grand Cru is summer in a flute. Composed of 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay, this grower Champagne is bright gold with agile bubbles. Honeysuckle and brioche on the nose are redolent of pastoral orchards. With flavours of cantaloupe, fermented pineapple, and a beautifully creamy texture, this Champagne promises to stimulate both your palette and sparkling conversation.

This light-bodied and beautifully balanced wine is made from Turbiana grapes, also known as Trebbiano di Soave. The wine has many personalities. With a little air, you move to the orchard with aromas of white peach, yellow apple, and pear. The first impression is citrus and green herbs, but the palate is rich and intense with apples, green paprika, and parsley. It has nice acidity and a long finish. Pairs well with warm fish appetizers and fresh cheese.

Cantina Tonello is a small boutique winery owned and operated by Delitta Tonello, who took over from her father in 2017. Cloe Durella is incredibly smooth with a soft floral, citrus, and mineral feel. This interesting mineral feature comes not only from the volcanic soil of the region but also from the year it spends in a cement tank. This traditional Italian white wine is an absolute delight to enjoy with seafood, white meat, or egg dishes.

MIKE MUIRHEAD

TODD ATONATION

GARY HEWITT

Andeluna Cellars 2018 Finca Martha Malbec Mendoza, Argentina $16.99

Te Pa 2019 Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough, New Zealand $22.99

Pikes 2018 Hills and Valleys Riesling Clare Valley, Australia $18.99

A breath of fresh air in the Argentina section. Finca Martha is a new winery to Manitoba (and Canada) found by our fantastic buyers. Blueberries and cherry leap out of the glass with a touch of black tea and graphite. On the palate, it is medium-full with soft tannins and a long finish, perfect for your next barbecue with ribs or burgers. 54 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com

There is something to be said about sipping on a light, crisp white while preparing appetizers to get the juices flowing—and this is just the wine for that. Bursting with flavours and aromas of grapefruit, green apple, passionfruit, and lime zest, this complex white keeps begging for another sip. I paired this with an easy appetizer to prepare, Tuna Poke: finely chopped ahi, sesame oil, jalapeno, cilantro, and kosher salt‌ sometimes simple is more.

This unapologetic, vibrant, and classic Clare Valley Riesling shows lime, green apple, and mineral talc. Juicy acidity balances the off-dry sweetness. This is a killer with steamed mussels or panfried pike (would the label lie?), or just for sipping, chilled. 4-7 years cellar potential. Excellent.


“Never settle for the minimum—raise your game. It doesn’t cost more to have the best.” Charlie Spiring, ICD.D Founder & Chairman

Find out how we’re different. 204.925.2274 www.wellington-altus.ca

© 2019, Wellington-Altus Private Wealth Inc. All rights reserved.


Profile for Poise Publications

The Cellar Door Issue 36: Chardonnay