! e e r F
The Boating Magazine for Coastal New England
field trips (for cruisers & landlubbers)
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Typographical errors are unintentional and subject to correction.
Points East July 2012
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Points East July 2012
The Boating Magazine for Coastal New England Volume 15 Number 4 July 2012 F E AT U R E S
Maine lighthouses for sale, News.
IDA Lewis Race, Racing Pages.
Custom-built barge, Yardwork.
Make your own ‘yacht’ flag, Last Word.
Field trips for the whole family Sign on a WWII sub, spend a night in a lighthouse, help build a boat, befriend a pirate, set sail on an old sloop, or check out a Young Mariners Discovery Program. By Susan Cornell
Capt. Mom and the revelation No, this isn’t the name of a rock group. It’s the tale of a cruise in a 22-foot daysailer, of a mother responsible for her husband and three kids, who all learn to trust each other. By Gay De Hart
Make your own ‘yacht’ flag What a fun family project this would be, we thought, to design and craft our own burgee, and with the help of Bettina Braisted, The Sailbag Lady in Madison, Conn., we did it. By Bill Bowman
Points East July 2012
The other side of the lens Can’t miss what you never had, don’t need. Peter M. Winter
Getting time on the water My tidy arrangement works just fine. Linda Evans
Symmetry on land and sea Shall I sail or work in the garden? D E PA R T M E N T S Letters..........................................7 Amateur surveyors use ice-picks; Don’t give up ship; go smaller; More “Swordbill Hat Connection.”
Yardwork ...................................66 Shape Fabrication aluminum welding; Morris Yachts opens Newport office; Lyman-Morse in . . . Panama?
Mystery Harbor...........................10 Wind turbine was the tip-off. New Mystery Harbor on page 71.
Calendar.....................................75 Races, regattas, lectures, exhibits.
News ..........................................21 Stellwagen wreck on National Register; Three Maine lighthouses up for grabs; MITA adds 200th site. The Racing Pages ........................56 Surprise tactics in Block Island Race; Chowder Cup Race set for Aug. 4; Youth Challenge back in Ida Lewis Race.
Final passages ............................79 Timothy A. Coleman, Mark Clayton Ewing. Tides......................................80-81 Distribution ................................82 Fishing reports............................88 Maine Coast: Stripers fast; groundfish slow; Western Long Island Sound: Fishing is hot; Rhode Island: Bluefins, sharks, bass and fluke.
Media ........................................64 “A Star to Sail Her By,” by Alex Ellison; “Embassy Cruising Guide-New England Coast, 9th ed.”
Find local dealers Looking for a local dealer for your favorite brand of engine or boat? Check out the Points East dealer links online to get connected. SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTIONS
Marina Listings ......................51-53
Dine Ashore ...........................73-74
The Boating Magazine for Coastal New England Volume 15, Number 4 Publisher Joseph Burke Editor Nim Marsh Marketing director Bernard Wideman Ad representatives Lynn Emerson Whitney Gerry Thompson, David Stewart Ad design Holly St. Onge Art Director Custom Communications/John Gold Contributors David Roper, David Buckman, Randy Randall, Roger Long, Mike Martel Delivery team Christopher Morse, Victoria Boucher, Will Nadauld, Jeff Redston Points East, a magazine by and for boaters on the coast of New England, is owned by Points East Publishing, Inc, with offices in Portsmouth, N.H. The magazine is published nine times annually. It is available free for the taking. More than 25,000 copies of each issue are distributed through more than 700 outlets from Greenwich, Conn., to Eastport, Maine. The magazine is available at marinas, yacht clubs, chandleries, boatyards, bookstores and maritime museums. If you have difficulty locating a distribution site, call the office for the name of the distributor closest to you. The magazine is also available by subscription, $26 for nine issues by first-class mail. Single issues and back issues (when available) cost $5, which includes first-class postage. All materials in the magazine are copyrighted and use of these materials is prohibited except with written permission. The magazine welcomes advice, critiques, letters to the editor, ideas for stories, and photos of boating activities in New England coastal waters. A stamped, self-addressed envelope should accompany any materials that are expected to be returned.
Mailing Address P.O. Box 1077 Portsmouth, N.H. 03802-1077 Address 249 Bay Road Newmarket, N.H. 03857 Telephone 603-766-EAST (3278) Toll free 888-778-5790 Fax 603-766-3280
On the cover: Children and dogs always seem to work their way up to the forward-most point on a boat, and these three kids, in the 2008 Classic Yacht Regatta in Newport, R.I., are no exception. Billy Black photo www.pointseast.com
Email email@example.com On the web at www.pointseast.com
Points East July 2012
EDITOR’S PAGE/Nim Ma rsh
A tree grows in Newport opelessly addicted Sara is a lifelong sailor to imagery and symwith a Marine Affairs debolism, we couldn’t gree, Coastal Marine Policy, help but think of “A Tree from URI. “The project has Grows in Brooklyn,” the been in the planning stages 1943 novel by Betty Smith, since 2008, and was adminwhen we visited the new istered by Harbormaster Newport Maritime Center, Tim Mills of the Harbor Diat 365 Thames Street, last vision,” she says. “Tim really month. You see, we lived in thinks outside the box, and Newport in the 1970s and his goal was to provide tran’80s when developers ravsient boaters with all the Photos by Nim Marsh aged the traditional worknecessary amenities visitors The Newport Maritime Center has a real require to make their stay in ing waterfront, replacing sand beach, right in the heart of downthe rough-and-ready saltithe harbor enjoyable.” town Newport. Inset: Manager Sara ness of the City by the Sea Appropriately, you access Schroeder has devoted her young life to with hotels, condominiums the handicap-accessible cenwatery pursuits. and gentrified clubs and ter from harbor-side of the restaurants. building, first entering the Viewed from the eyes of a lounge area replete with wharf rat with an old wood boat in a harbor he counter space for laptops, Internet access, information thought was his, these intrusions on his small world desk, vending machines, tables and chairs, manager’s seemed catastrophic. But Newport as a boating desti- office, and racks for brochures. Next comes the navination endured, and many seagoing entities can take gation area, with tables covered with laminated charts a bow for this, including Sail Newport, the Interna- that cover Eastern Long Island Sound to Monomoy on tional Yacht Restoration School (IYRS), Newport Cape Cod, the walls decorated with Onne van der Wal Yachting Center, State Pier Number 9, Bowen’s Wharf, canvases. Farther aft, port and starboard, are men’s Bannister’s Wharf, Seamen’s Church Institute, New- and women’s restrooms and pay showers ($1.75 for port Harbor Hotel Marina, Aquidneck Lobster Com- seven minutes), lockers, and a laundry room. A large pany, Perotti Park, Oldport Marine, Newport On-Shore map of Newport, with recommended walking tours, is Marina, Brown and Howard, Newport Marina, West on the wall. Wind Marina, and Casey’s Marina. Outside the Maritime Center, nestled between a But ever the irrelevant romantic, we mourned the commercial wharf and a tall condominium, is the adloss of Johnny Mathinos’ hardscrabble boatyard, J.T. jacent Ann Street Pier, which offers public dockage for O’Connell’s chandlery and warehouse across from vessels up to 40 feet ($.50 per foot, per hour), a dinghy Long Wharf, the Eastern Ice House, Williams and dock, trash disposal, and a stop for the harbor shuttle. Manchester Shipyard, the Marina Pub on Goat Island, And, Sara, says, the Center can direct boats to new where crews clearing in from the islands could get an transient docks (same dockage price) at Perotti Park. honest steak dinner while waiting for George Monk The Center will be open daily 0700 to 2000, from from Customs to arrive, and the Crawford Blacksmith Memorial Day to Columbus Day. The Center monitors and Welding Company, where Tom Crawford would VHF Channel 09, telephone 401-845-5870 or email: sscraft, for a song, a vital part for some desperate voy- firstname.lastname@example.org. Can it get any better ager on the run south to beat the winter. than this? Well, there’s an authentic sand beach on the And we felt a loss of access to the harbor as large Center’s shore. A “tree” grows in Newport. waterfront structures were built for the tourist trade. “Some people call it the Tree of Heaven. . . .,” Betty Then we moved up the bay and started sailing out of Smith writes in “A Tree Grows in Brooklyn.” “It is the other harbors. Thus it was with great interest that we only tree that grows out of cement. . . . It grows in went to Newport to visit Sara Schroeder, manager of boarded-up lots . . . . It would be considered beautiful the Newport Maritime Center, who would give us a except that there are too many of it.” Now wouldn’t tour of the $1.46 million facility behind the Armory, that be a nice problem for New England recreational built in 1884 for the Rhode Island Militia. mariners to contend with?
Points East July 2012
Letters Only seen an amateur use ice-pick Capt. Jay Michaud’s comments in the May Letters on Andy Schoenburg’s article (“The surveyor did what?” April 2012) were right on, but I believe . . . he left a misconception that the use of an ice-pick is general, too, for inspection on wood boats. While I am not a surveyor I attended dozens of surveys on wood boats done by my father, Capt. Giffy Full, well known in his day, and have, as a yacht broker, sold a number of wood vessels and attended those surveys as well. I have but once seen an awl (not an ice-pick) used by a surveyor, and that was brought out only after an area of question was identified by the use of tap or percussion testing with a phenolic hammer – and with the permission of both the seller and buyer. It was used to probe frame ends on a substantially built vessel where the surveyor found some of the frame ends poor and wanted to determine if there was any material of any strength below the surface. As a side note I have seen an ice-pick in a novice’s hands poking at a wood boat. One of the problems with using such a device is that the point is so fine that one does not need to apply a lot of force to drive it into thoroughly sound, but softer, woods such as cedar and many species of pine. As Capt. Michaud states, the proper tool is the phenolic hammer on any surface from the boot top up – and perhaps something harder (e.g., a nylon hammer) below the waterline only. Bill Full, CPYB East Coast Yacht Sales Yarmouth, Maine
That’s the canal, not Woods Hole I just read the well done and most entertaining article by Joe Kelly (“A Center-Console Offshore Cruise”) in my June Points East. The text and pictures to illustrate it were excellent. However, the large opening picture is not, as captioned, the Nantucket Skiff entering Woods Hole, but rather entering the east end of the Cape Cod Canal, with the handsome console heading toward its landmark power plant. Great issue as always. Warren Hayes Hanover, Mass.
But for the caption, a pleasing tale As a resident of Sandwich, Mass., I immediately recognized the large photograph on page 34 of the June www.pointseast.com
issue as not “heading into Woods Hole,” but rather the eastern entrance to the Cape Cod Canal, coming from Cape Cod Bay, with the GenOn (formerly Mirant) powerplant in the center of the photo. The Sandwich Marina and Coast Guard Station Cape Cod Canal are located in the cluster of low buildings appearing just under and to the left of the powerplant’s stack in the photo. Aside from the wrong caption, however, Joe Kelly’s journey in the Nantucket Skiff made for a good read. I would like to try that trip myself one day. I thoroughly enjoy the magazine, which I regularly pick up at various locations on Cape Cod. Robert O’Connor Sandwich, Mass. Editor’s note: Thank you, Warren and Robert, for calling attention to this gross misidentification of a vital landmark to all mariners, commercial and recreational. We appreciate your continued enthusiasm for the magazine, despite this embarrassing gaffe.
Don’t give up the ship, go smaller Enjoyed John Bergstrom’s article (“The Westport Sloop”) in the May 2012 issue, especially: “I think it may be time to start thinking of getting a smaller and simpler boat….” I’m 84 years old and recently came down to an O’Day 20, which fits into the smallest slip at Southern Yacht Club here in New Orleans. It’s been great. I have a four-horsepower outboard for windless moments, and I often sail alone, though I prefer company. So, for us old guys, it’s “Don’t Give Up the Ship – just go to a smaller size!” Peter Beer Judge, United States District Court Eastern District of Louisiana 500 Poydras St. New Orleans, La.
The year of painting dangerously This was our year for bottom paint. We needed to paint both the work skiff and the mooring barge. We lucked out with some of those unusually warm days last month. When I told the clerk at Hamilton’s I needed paint for an aluminum boat, he said I had chosen the wrong type. He took the can of paint from me and grabbed another off the shelf. “Here,” he said; “this is what you want.” Points East July 2012
I replied, “OK,” and let him shake it up in the machine. Except, when we were back at the marina and kneeling over the upturned skiff and pried open the paint can, we discovered red paint. I had selected black, but our friend at the store inadvertently picked a can of red. “Wow” Jeremy said, “Looks like lipstick.” “Well, I’m not driving all the way into Portland just to swap paint,” I said. Actually the red doesn’t look too bad. It kind of grows on you, and besides, it’s the fish that see it most of the time. Painting the barge was another challenge. The boat does not sit level on the water due to the weight of the motor and the winch. But we wanted the waterline to be level when seen from shore. “Paint it to the scum line,” one old-timer told us. “You only see one side at a time anyway.” Instead, we measured, ran out our chalk line, and snapped a blue line the length of the pontoons. We measured some more. Stood back and stared. Adjusted this and fiddled with that. I’d read in an old boatbuilding book that a good way to sight a waterline was to bend over and look at it upside down. I did, and looked at the blue chalk line back through my legs. My friend and fellow marina owner, Gary, saw me twisting and bending backward and yelled, “What the heck are you doing?” In the end it was a matter of consensus. When everyone agreed, we ran out the blue tape and taped her off. You know what happens when you hold a paintbrush up over your head under a hull: It’s not long before the paint runs down onto the handle, and your gloves stick to the gooey paint. Just sheer persistence and a certain pig-headed determination get you through the job. The day was warm and nice so that helped. When we launched her on the high tide, the waterline appeared level and straight. We used green paint this time. Randy Randall Marston’s Marina Saco, Maine
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Knocking about in swordbill hats The May Editor’s Page in scored again, I thought. “The Swordbill Hat Connection” hit me square upside the head, as Crosby’s marine shop in the 1960s and ’70s used to carry an almost identical version. I bit on it, of course, and felt like an old Cape Cap’n for a few years – till the bill started knocking things around like the editor’s dad’s did. In the April issue – what fun! Booth’s piece on old wood (“Prehistoric Wood”) entrances one, doesn’t it? Good going for the old Wianno owner. Deke Ulian Cotuit, Mass. Richard “Deke” Ulian is author of “A Sailor’s Notebook,” published in 2009 by Rich Publishing Company.
Offer to PE readers from FBHI I live fulltime at Constitution Marina. Living at CM I know that they have worked hard for many years on the moorings and at Spectacle Island. I have not heard more about the Spectacle Marina and moorings as of this writing, but when I do, I will email Points East. Spectacle, while almost 100 percent new, is a wonderful place to spend a day, and a night as well. The raccoons were quite large when we were there for the last Constitution Marina end-of the-season party two years ago, but that didn’t stop the fun time, and the wonderful scenery. The Friends of Boston Harbor Islands (FBHI) have been very busy this spring, and have been working hard to schedule boat trips from Boston to some of the hardto-get-to islands. I don’t know if there is a way to get a notice into Points East with your printing lead time, but if there is, we could offer a membership discount to your readers. The discount would then provide a discount on haul-outs at Admirals Hill Marina, sailing classes at Black Rock Sailing School, Boat US memberships, and, of course, our own boat trips to see lighthouses, and trips to the islands. Walter Hope, chairman FBHI 30 Shipyard Drive #202 Hingham MA 02043
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Points East July 2012
Richard DeMarte: Write more I thoroughly enjoyed reading Richard DeMarte’s article in the June issue (“It’s Not Just the Fish”), primarily because it is so well written. His ability with words is among the best I have ever seen in boating circles. I am totally amazed that he is so young – just now graduating from high school. Richard: Please write more articles. And all the best of good luck at Binghamton University. Bill Van Winkle m/v Prime Time Little Silver, N.J. Richard will have a regular fishing report in Points East throughout the angling season.
Corrections to letter to Phil Weld I take the liberty to make a few corrections in Richard de Grasse’s good “An Open letter to Phil Weld”
in “Letters” in the June issue. Richard has confused me, Dick Newick, with Walter Greene, who built Weld’s 1980 OSTAR winner, Moxie, to my design, at Handy Boatworks in Falmouth Foreside before Walter established his boatyard in Yarmouth, Maine. Moxie is now available for charter in the south of France. Weld’s first of my designs, Gulfstreamer, was capsized en route to the 1976 OSTAR. He and his crew were picked up by a freighter. The boat was later salvaged by a Russian vessel, and now sails in the Mediterranean. Tom Grossman’s 180 OSTAR racer, Kriter VII, which I designed, placed 10th in that race after we took 24 hours to repair damage from a collision just before the start. That boat day-chartered in the British Virgin Islands for many years. Dick Newick Sebastopol, Calif.
Photos by Onne van der Wal
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Points East July 2012
MYSTERY HARBOR/And th e win ner is...
Entrance looks like creek through the sand This is Hingham, Mass., Harbor. The wind turbine, located in Hull, in the background was a dead giveaway for me. My boat, Goodform, is a Fortier 26, and I keep it in Cohasset Harbor, opposite the Cohasset Yacht Club. We often visit this area for a picnic as it is well protected, the water is warm, and the views are terrific. There is just enough boat traffic to keep it interesting. Entering this area can be tricky, but not difficult. We usually enter Hingham Bay from the north (near Boston light) through Hull Gut. Depending on the wind and tides, this can be unsettling to the faint of heart. After crossing the east side of the bay, you begin the entrance to Hingham harbor. Pay attention to your charts (GPS). As the channel narrows, the Hingham Yacht Club will be to starboard. They sell fuel at reasonable prices. After the yacht club, there is a mooring field and some anchorage spots between two small islands. This is where we usually stop, but you can go much farther. If you do, pay particular attention to the channel as it is winding and very narrow in places. At low tide, it looks like a creek through the sand. The inner part of Hingham harbor is quite visible from Route 3A as you drive by car. If you’re thinking of cutting the channel, drive by at low tide to see, and you might change your mind. There is a small marina at the far end of the inner harbor, and I believe they rent moorings. The downtown is nearby and there are many good restaurants. Around the Fourth of July, Hingham has
a terrific fireworks display from the middle of the harbor. This event alone is worth the trip. Al Moore Cohasset, Mass.
Bunky Kehoe built that workboat I believe this is Hingham, Mass., inner harbor. The aluminum workboat is the mooring service vessel for Pirates Cove Marine. Hidden in the photo, except for the pilothouse, is the red workboat Little Red, built by the renowned Thomas “Bunky” Kehoe. After I retired, I ran a launch for Pirates Cove Marine in the fall after the summer launch drivers returned to school. The windmill in the background is the second windmill installed in Hull. Our home is in Hingham as is our boat, a recently purchased (used) Eastern 31, Monhegan. The boat was purchased in Maine, and we closed the deal in August, the same month my wife and I were married 38 years ago. We honeymooned on Monhegan Island, hence the name. Hingham Harbor has been our homeport since 1987. I believe the Downeast cruising boat in the photo is a 30-foot Cape Dory, Alura, owned by Gary and Liz McDonough. But the real giveaways were the aluminum workboat, Silver Bullet, and the Hull windmill. Only with close scrutiny did I make out the boom and wheelhouse on the workboat Little Red in the background. You publish a great magazine and I especially like David Roper’s columns. I recently met David in Marblehead for a sandwich, and he was nice enough to autograph a couple of copies of his book. “Watching for Mermaids.” Benjamin Matthews Hingham, Mass.
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Perspectives The other side of the lens e came alongside the moment I snubbed Chang Ho’s anchor, maneuvering his battered wooden skiff flawlessly from a sitting position atop his tired, misfiring outboard. His agenda, I soon learned, was to sell me a lobster. Fair enough. My agenda during the transaction was to learn something about this roguish young teen with the startling combination of piercing blue eyes, Native American facial features, and shoulder-length black hair. I soon learned that he lived with his parents on a mast-less hulk of an old sailboat astern of me, which was tied to a partially sunken float piled high with wooden lobster traps. “Why you living out here?” I asked. “John [my dad] says it’s just fine to live off the grid, as he calls it. He and Mum been doing it out here for sixteen years, me for thirteen. All my life, actually, except a few times to get gear, and when we went to the
mainland to get me born. No problems with this ‘off the grid’ stuff, I guess. John says, ‘You can’t miss what you never had and what you never needed in the first place.’ I figure he meant us having kerosene lamps instead of electric lights, or us having a wood stove instead of electric heat, or us reading book after book instead of watching one of those televisions. Guess I got slid onto John’s hook pretty easy over the years regarding that stuff. But now I’m beginning to wonder. “Met a kid about my age this summer. Came in on one of those big plastic sailing yachts. Showed me a bunch of his gadgets. Kid was about thirteen like me. Black hair, straight and long like mine. Cool kid. I liked him. But, man, the guy at the wheel, he sure didn’t know shoot about what he was doing. Raising his voice. Talking like he had rocks in his mouth.
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Don’t know how he even made it past the outer ledges, much less past the inner east ledge. That one’s caught more than one of those shiny yachts loaded up with what Pa calls the ‘weekend warriors and their adoring ladies.’ Best part is when they come steaming into our narrow harbor, just missing a couple of ledges that they don’t even know are under them, and then they continue on down-harbor like it’s some bottomless trench going on for eternity. “Except it doesn’t. By the time they see the muddy beach at the end it’s too late. They’re in four feet of water with six foot of keel under them, and that just doesn’t work. That forty-foot of yacht just stops like a clam-digger’s rake hitting a ledge. Would probably sound about the same, too, except ’course it’s happening too far underwater. “Now the best part: That’s what Pa calls the ‘freeze frame.’ All these rich folks are first walking around on deck and pointing at this and that, at our shanty on shore, at our old boat home tied up to our bait float, and maybe even at grubby, long-haired me in my skiff, like I’m some sort of illiterate, orphaned kid character from Dickens or something. Then it’s ‘freeze-frame’ time and it all stops. “That forty footer going three or four knots is now instantly doing absolutely zero knots, but the motor, she’s still chugging away. The guests in their fancy canvas sailing hats with one side turned up to make them look like, what … fishermen? The guests in their fresh leather boating moccasins … the guests all tucked inside those belts with the whales and anchors on them…the guests in their shirts colored a green I’ve never seen the likes of on any bush, tree or grassy
knoll. These guests…they all just stop. Freeze frame.” He stopped and looked skyward, brushed some long strands of hair from his eyes, and seemed to sniff at the budding east wind. Then he smiled before continuing, and I glimpsed some teeth with a challenged future. “Might be the best part of my people-seeing all year, which only lasts a couple of months out here on the island.” He paused again, a boy clearly with time for his thoughts. “It’s something about that point when there’s just no more control left in their world. It’s right then, when their world has stopped dead inside ours, and for a few special moments they just don’t know why. It’s the bewilderment I like. Best part. All that fancy gear and all the money and all the engine power doesn’t matter.” He looked astern at their old sailboat and bait float anchored near the inner end of the island’s tiny slit of a harbor. “And that captain at the wheel, he tries to spring into action, like some character out of a Robert Louis Stephenson or Patrick O’Brien book, but he’s not the least bit sure of what to spring into. He’s got a holster on his belt, but in it is a yellow VHF radio instead of a gun, and he’s got a fancy knife case on that whale belt, too, and a green beer can in one hand. None of these going to help. As Pa says, ‘Sometimes having it all is just not enough.’” He looked back at the sky and then at the rugged rolling terrain ashore. “Yeah, our island, our harbor, our place… it’s got them by the short hairs.” Dave Roper’s new book, “Watching for Mermaids,” which climbed to No. 4 on the “Boston Globe” Best-Sellers List, is available through www.amazon.com.
“Yeah, our island, our
harbor, our place… it’s got them by the short hairs.”
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Getting time on the water he other day, the sainted mother asked me to please get her cell phone out of her pocketbook. Naturally, I jumped to my feet and set to it immediately, despite a good deal of apprehension. Over the years, I have borne sly witness to what women store in their pocketbooks, and who knows what dangers lurked deep within. When my kids call the sainted mother, they always call twice. The first call is just three rings and then a hang-up. This is the alert call, telling her to begin the process of retrieving the phone from her pocketbook. The real call is the second one, made one minute after the first. By then, they hope, the phone has been found and readied for the call, and thus the appeal for a college-allowance increase (the only reason they call these days) can be negotiated. Beats me why she bothers to pick up at all, but that’s another story.
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I was right to be apprehensive. By the time this particular archeological excavation of her pocketbook was over, I had found a parking ticket from 1981, three business shirts she once picked up for me from the dry cleaner we used when we lived in New York, the Complete Clapton CD collection I have been trying to find forever, a sorry looking jar of Vegemite procured in Auckland for the kids during the 1999 America’s Cup, and the rusty old maroon Subaru stick shift her father bought her when she graduated college. I never did find that cell phone. I think it was in the other pocketbook. The one in which the cat lives. I tell you this story because it’s important to me that you understand the staggering insight that women and men are not the same. They are equal in every respect, of course, but they are not the same. When I leave the house, I do not take a pocketbook. I take only
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Put differently, just because you like something doesn’t mean your spouse has to like it, too. In fact, she shouldn’t even have to pretend to like it. Nowhere is this truism more relevant than in the area of sailing. the car keys and a credit card. Sometimes, more often than I care to report, I forget to put on socks, and twice I have even overlooked the putting on of pants. No, we are clearly not the same, and it seems to me that many make the colossal mistake of confusing equality with sameness. This is the path to ruination. Just yesterday, a recently divorced mate of mine asked me for a few jokes he could use to enlighten a date he was planning that evening. I had to explain to him that, while men loved nothing more than telling lies and swapping tall stories, preferably over a libation, women were different. They are absolutely not interested in a man with a sense of humor. I know this because I am hilarious. No, women don’t want humor. What they want is to be released from the obligation of laughing again and again at the same old story told again and again. Put differently, just because you like something doesn’t mean your spouse has to like it, too. In fact, she shouldn’t even have to pretend to like it. Nowhere is this truism more relevant than in the area of sailing. Consider for a moment that the sainted mother is
not the seafaring type. She’s game enough – she’s a Maine girl after all – but she much prefers an art gallery to blue water. I’ve seen marriages rent asunder by this point of difference. The period of time just before the marriage ends is the worst, though – even worse than the termination itself. I have learned this fact through astute observation, sharpened on occasion by a couple of dry martinis. A mate of mine is a member of the New York Yacht Club. Once or twice a summer, we sit outside on the lawn at Newport, each sipping on one of the aforementioned martinis, and watch the boats coming in below us at sunset. Watching how a couple brings their boat up to a mooring tells you a great deal about the state of their nuptial condition. You know it’s heading for the rocks when the wife positions herself up at the sharp end of the boat to “help” with mooring. If she is wearing a jaunty French striped nautical sweater, white pants and red boat shoes, it’s over. That outfit is a dead giveaway. She’s doing it for him – the husband and commander – not her, and he never knows what he doesn’t know and wouldn’t admit it if
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16 Points East July 2012
Watching how a couple brings their boat up to a mooring tells you a great deal about the state of their nuptial condition. You know it’s heading for the rocks when the wife positions herself up at the sharp end of the boat to “help” with mooring. he did. So he can never hit the mooring ball. You can hear the mutual accusations echo over the water. “Dammit Marjorie, I’ll have to go round again.” “Well dear, if you can slow right down next time, maybe I can snag it. I’m doing my best.” The exchanges gradually ratchet up with every mooring-ball miss, until the Commodore can’t stand it any more and sends a boat boy out to intercept the boat as it negotiates the mooring field for the fifth time and get her safely tied up. My buddy Ray can’t help himself. As the harried, red-faced couple comes up the path and into the bar, he always looks up at them and asks brightly, “Another nice day on the water?” We don’t do that. The sainted mother comes along when she wants to come along. And, it’s not mandatory for me to visit every art gallery in the country. On those rare occasions when Her Majesty comes on board, the rail must never touch the water, the use of nautical terminology is prohibited, and there must be
no expectations of assistance. Further, the rank of captain must be temporarily suspended so that occasional advice can be proffered…and heeded. This tidy arrangement works just fine. It means that I can go sailing pretty much whenever I want. Well, after I’ve cut the grass and tidied up the yard, cleaned and gassed up the cars, finished the laundry, and provided the means by which the family enjoys the standard of living to which they each appear to have become accustomed. We are equal alright, as I’m sure you can see, perhaps some of us more than others, but we are most definitely not the same. Provided I get my time on the water, that’s just fine with me. Peter Winter (who obviously is indeed hilarious) is a retired media executive who lives in Georgetown, Maine, with his wife, Elizabeth. They escape to his native New Zealand each winter. His new book, “Watching Newspapers Die,” will be published in 2012.
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Points East July 2012
Symmetry on land and sea ew England summers, as much as I live for them, often present me with a dilemma: Shall I sail or work in the garden? Sailing and gardening are my passions. Both passions consume me from April through November. However, given the short sailing season, I always am ready to hop on the boat instead of pull weeds. We like to take long weekend cruises aboard our Catalina 380 Bonnie Christine as well as a good twoweek cruise to any of the fantastic areas within a day’s sail of Scituate, on the South Shore of Boston. But I do enjoy cooking, and nothing pleases Billy and me more than when I am cooking something I have grown in my garden. Because he also enjoys scuba diving, he will often supply an entrée, such as flounder, crab, or lobster, and I will prepare something from my garden bounty. So during the summer months, when I am harvesting, I try not to leave anything behind when we head for the boat. I will take the time to canvas the garden and harvest anything that is ready, or even near ready. Then I wash everything carefully at my kitchen sink and package it so we will be able to enjoy it for the duration of our
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trip. In May and June, my lettuce, spinach and Swiss chard, which I planted back in April, are ready to be thinned out. I also can harvest my hardy perennial herbs, such as chives and parsley as well as the garlic which I planted the previous fall. Garlic is wonderful as any part of the plant can be harvested at any stage once the ground starts thawing. Onions, whether planted in the spring or survivors from the previous year, are also a great find. In July, the broccoli and summer squashes (zucchini, yellow crookneck) start coming faster than I can pick them. Now the cucumbers start appearing seemingly overnight. The summer herbs need to be pruned. Basil, dill, cilantro, tarragon…I pinch them back and the plants reward me by getting bushier. Finally, August arrives and brings the first tomatoes, both red and yellow. Then the peppers, they love the hot weather as much as I do, send out their beautiful fruits. In September, I pick the early winter squashes: butternut, acorn, sugar pumpkin. Fall herbs arrive: the rosemary, sage and thyme. October reminds me that there
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As we follow the wind and weather from harbor to harbor, I plan our meals around our harvest. The early summer greens become a salad, yet could also be sautéed with some garlic and onions. The summer squashes can be grilled, sautéed or roasted, then seasoned with herbs and mixed with feta cheese and pasta or rice for a side dish.
1 zucchini, diced 1 summer squash, diced 1 eggplant, diced 2 red or green peppers, diced 1 large onion, diced 6 cloves garlic, minced 1 cup olives (canned or fresh) 8 oz. feta cheese crumbled 1 small bunch of basil, diced 2 cups cooked pasta Pre-heat oven to 350 (or grill to medium). Lay all vegetables on a cookie sheet (for oven) or in a foil packet (for grill). Cook for approx 40 minutes, stirring (or flipping) often. When all vegetables are soft, transfer to a casserole dish and add in olives, cheese and pasta. Mix well, and season with basil.
are still potatoes that want to be dug up. In November, I can finally pick the Brussels sprouts from the bushes that take up so much space. As we follow the wind and weather from harbor to harbor, I plan our meals around our harvest. The early summer greens become a salad, yet could also be sautéed with some garlic and onions. The summer squashes can
be grilled, sautéed or roasted, then seasoned with herbs and mixed with feta cheese and pasta or rice for a side dish. Broccoli and onions can go into an omelet at breakfast. My herbs, because they just taste so good, get incorporated into every meal, from breakfast smoothies to appetizers, sauces, sandwiches, and garnishes. Tomatoes
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Points East July 2012
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also work their way into everything we eat, and I can never make enough tomato sauce. When the fall weather sets in, I turn on the oven and the odor of roasting winter squashes seasoned with rosemary takes the chill off the cabin. As much as we enjoy eating at the dining establishments in the harbors we visit, we prefer eating on the boat. The food is usually better, and the service can’t be beat. It is cheaper, too. When we eat from the garden, we call it FTG (food to go). While on the boat, we call it FTGOTB (food to go on the boat). Sometime in early November, we finally haul the boat home for the winter. By now, the garden has gone by. I pull weeds and plant crops for the spring harvest. I lay blankets of salt-marsh hay to keep her warm for winter. We put the boat to sleep for the winter, too, in the same manner. We tuck her in and do the chores necessary to help her through winter’s slumber. We change her oil, drain the water tanks, wash her sails. I enjoy the downtime and hibernation period of winter. As the dark season sets in, I take comfort knowing that, as with the garden, thankfully, there is an Eternal Return with the boating season.
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News Stellwagen wreck Lamartine on Register The wreck of the Lamartine, a 19th century schooner that hauled granite for construction of streets, sidewalks and buildings along the U.S. East Coast, has been listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the nation’s official list of cultural resources worthy of preservation. The wreck lies within NOAA’s Stellwagen Bank National Marine Sanctuary in Massachusetts Bay. Built in Camden, Maine, the 79-foot, two-masted cargo schooner was launched in 1848 and enjoyed a 45-year career along the Eastern Seaboard. While hauling granite sewer heads from Stonington, Maine, to New York City on May 17, 1893, the Lamartine encountered a storm off Cape Ann, Mass. Heavy seas caused the schooner’s cargo to shift, capsizing the vessel. One crewmember drowned as the schooner settled beneath the waves, and the captain and mate were tossed into the ocean. Luckily, a fishing schooner reLAMARTINE, continued on Page 22
Photo courtesy NOAA/SBNMS and NURTEC-UConn.
The carefully chiseled groove around the basin head’s manhole allowed the manhole cover to fit flush with the slab’s surface.
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Points East July 2012
LAMARTINE, continued from Page 21 turning to Gloucester saw the Lamartine sink, and rescued them. Scientists from NOAA and the University of Connecticut’s Northeast Underwater Research Technology and Education Center (www.nurc.uconn.edu) documented the shipwreck with the university’s remotely operated vehicle between 2004 and 2006. The Lamartine is the sanctuary’s sixth shipwreck site to be included on the National Register of Historic Places, administered by the U.S. Department of the Interior’s National Park Service. “Lamartine’s cargo of cut granite reveals fasPhoto courtesy Deborah Marx cinating details about Schooners loaded granite from the how granite quarried in quarries in Stonington, Maine, and New England met the deRockport, Mass. mands of a nation growing increasingly urban,” said Craig MacDonald, superintendent of the Stellwagen Bank National Marine Sanctuary. “The shipwreck is a physical link to earlier generations who moved the stone and whose hands chiseled the granite blocks that built our great American cities.” FMI: http://stellwagen.noaa.gov.
Seabird identification stickers put on Maine’s ferry windows Maine’s ferry passengers frequently observe seabirds as they travel between the mainland and the islands. Many passengers can’t identify these birds and some may wonder what types of seabirds they are. In response, the Friends of Maine’s Seabird Islands (FOMSI) has developed window stickers depicting Maine’s most notable seabirds. FOMSI and the Maine Coastal Islands National Wildlife Refuge [MCINWR] have already applied the stickers to many of Maine’s ferries. Maine Coastal Islands Refuge islands provide habitat for common, Arctic, and endangered roseate terns; Atlantic puffins; razorbills; black guillemots; Leach’s storm-petrels; herring, greater black-backed, and laughing gulls; double-crested and great cormorants; and common eiders. FOMSI hopes this familiarity will enhance public support for the conservation of seabirds and Maine’s coastal islands where these birds nest and raise their young. FMI: www.maineseabirds.org.
Join us at Robinhood Marine Center on Riggs Cove in midcoast Maine Ashore, Afloat and Underway! Plan a family gathering or celebration in our idyllic setting. Enjoy all the summertime amenities the marina has to offer including: Free WiFi ● Typhoon Daysailer ● 15’ Joel White pulling boat ● The Osprey Restaurant Free Library ● Wednesday night “Lectures in the Library” ● Friday night Jazz band
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Tabor senior starts model-boat program for disabled students Student sailors with disabilities will have the opportunity to race model sailboats as part of an extensive senior project undertaken by Tabor Academy (Marion, Mass.) senior Asa Smith of Wellesley, Mass. Smith is completing and renovating model boats left unfinished from previous semesters by students taking the Ship and Boat Design class. He will donate two of the boats to the 2012 Robie Pierce One-Design Regatta for sailors with disabilities in Larchmont, N.Y., two to Duxbury Bay Maritime School’s Accessail program; two to the New Bedford Community Boating Center; and one to the Schwartz Center in Dartmouth, Mass. With the support of Robie Pierce, of Newport, R.I., a 1958 Tabor alum, and Capt. David Bill, head of the Nautical Science Department at Tabor, Smith obtained permission to donate them from their previous owners. He spent the semester completing them, painting them, and building the remote controls that will enable those with disabilities to sail them in model-boat regattas. “I found a biography about Robie in an old alumni magazine at Tabor that talked about how he’d founded the Shake-a-Leg program in Newport, which is now called Sail to Prevail,” said Smith. “I got in touch with him . . . and he’s been so supportive of my project ever
Photo courtesy Tabor Academy
Asa Smith will donate two models to the Robie Pierce OneDesign Regatta, two to Duxbury Bay Maritime School's ACCESSAIL program, two to the New Bedford Community Boating Center, and one to the Schwartz Center in Dartmouth, Mass.
since.” Pierce is himself a sailor with disabilities, while Sail To Prevail creates opportunities for children and adults to overcome adversity through therapeutic sailing. FMI: www.taboracademy.org.
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Points East July 2012
Briefly Three Maine lighthouses up for grabs Boon Island Lighthouse, Maine’s tallest lighthouse, approximately nine miles off the coast of York, and Halfway Rock Lighthouse in Casco Bay, within sight of Bailey’s Island, are being offered for free, on a competing basis, to any qualified nonprofit or government entity. Moose Peak Lighthouse on Mistake Island, off the coast of Jonesport, is being auctioned in an on-line GSA auction that began June 4. The structures have been declared “excess property.” The final decision as to whom is qualified, or not, for the long term care of an historic lighthouse ultimately rests with the federal government. For more information on the lighthouses being of-
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fered for adoption and on applying, visit the GSA website at https://extportal.pbs.gsa.gov.
Maine Island Trail adds its 200th site The Maine Island Trail Association (MITA) has added three islands to the Maine Island Trail – a coastal waterway that links uninhabited islands and mainland sites from Kittery to the Canadian border. With three new islands added in Southern Maine, Casco Bay, and Merchant Row in Stonington, the Maine Island Trail now includes 200 islands and mainland sites. “Reaching 200 sites is an exciting milestone for MITA,” reports executive director Doug Welch. “It is a powerful indication of the wisdom of our founders, the effectiveness of our volunteers, and the continued generosity of our coastal property owners.” FMI: www.mita.org.
Sea-level, water-temp rise in Narragansett Photo courttesy Lighthouse Digest
This artistic photo of Boon Island Light was shot by Phillmore Smith in the 1990s. Price tag for Boon Light? Free.
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Climate change is already happening in Rhode Island’s Narragansett Bay region, and will intensify in the years to come, according to the spring edition of “Narragansett Bay Journal.” Some impacts observed by Watershed Counts (www.watershedcounts.org) include increases in air and water temperatures, rising sea level, and increasing rainfall and storm intensity, all of which result in more coastal and inland flooding and increased coastal erosion.
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Based on information from buoys and other monitoring sites throughout the bay, significant increases in bay water temperature have been observed over the past decades, with a change in the annual bay surface temperature of almost three degrees since 1960. Winter bay temperatures have increased by about four degrees, which is expected to cause major ecosystem shifts, affecting the bay’s fish populations. Sea level has risen over eight inches at the Newport tide gauge since 1930. Eight inches may not look like much, NBJ says, but this trend will accelerate causing widespread shoreline flooding during high tides and coastal storms, especially during hurricanes and nor’easters. FMI: Contact Lesley Lambert, URI Bay Campus, 401-874-6482, email: email@example.com.
Casco Baykeeper gets EPA Award Casco Baykeeper Joseph E. Payne has been awarded the 2012 Environmental Merit Award for a lifetime of advocacy for clean water by the Environmental Protection Agency. Joe was hired by Friends of Casco Bay in 1991 as the environmental steward of Casco Bay. Later, Payne, along with six other Waterkeepers and environmental attorney Robert F. Kennedy Jr., founded Waterkeeper Alliance, which now has 200 Waterkeepers on six continents. Friends of Casco Bay, based in South Portland, works to improve and protect the environmental health of Casco Bay through advocacy, research, education, and collaborative partnerships. FMI: www.friendsofcascobay.org.
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Photos courtesy of Rose island Lighthouse (top), Lowell’s Boat Shop, and Maine Maritime Museum (bottom).
The learning possibilities for families seem boundless, from rowing a Grand Banks dory, to cooking in a lighthouse kitchen (inset, top), to understanding the whys and wherefores of lighthouses (inset, right).
Field Trips for the whole
A young visitor to the Maine Maritime Museum rings the ship’s bell aboard the Grand Banks fishing schooner Sherman Zwicker.
Family Sign on a WWII sub, spend a night in a lighthouse, help build a boat, befriend a pirate, set sail on an old sloop, or check out a Young Mariners Discovery Program. By Susan Cornell For Points East ome field trips are perfect for kids but a real yawner for parents. Other excursions are fascinating for the old folks but a real drag for the
26 Points East July 2012
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and schooners, gundalows and submarines. How’s that for taking the term “eclectic” to another level?
Maine Maine Maritime Museum, 243 Washington St., Bath
A visit to Maine Maritime Museum is an ideal learning experience for schoolage children because the museum has a number of activities that engage their natural curiosity and sense of discovery. Children can pretend to be the skipper on a tugboat or raise an anchor by hand on a sailing ship. They can start a giant steam engine or test their navigation talents in the World Trade Map game. They can watch videos of maritime activities in the crew’s living quarters, or be the person who launches the schooner in the ship-launching demonstration. They can visit the home of a 19th-century shipbuilding family and compare it to their own home, or see how lobsters are trapped in the lobstering exhibit. They can go aboard and below deck on a fishing
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All kids love to play pirate, and that’s why Maine Maritime Museum’s Pirate Playship is a popular campus attraction. Inset: At the “launch tank,” children of all ages relish being the one chosen to launch the schooner in the ship-launch demonstration.
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schooner to see how deep-sea fishermen lived and worked for months at a time, then visit the woodenboat shop where a number of Maine children have learned the art and craft of boatbuilding. They can exercise their flights of fancy by pretending to be a pirate captain on the Pirate Play Ship, and top it off by buying a pirate book, game or hat in the Museum gift shop. For adult visitors Maine Maritime Museum is a treat for the senses – an enriching, often transforming, experience that is both educational and captivating. Located on a beautiful 20-acre campus on the banks of the Kennebec River in Bath, the Museum encompasses the sites of three turn-of-the-century shipyards where large commercial wooden ships were built. One of those was the Percy & Small Shipyard, most of whose original buildings are still intact and open for touring – the only such site in the entire country. Even world travelers are awed at the full-scale sculpture of the schooner Wyoming, the largest wooden schooner ever built, in the center of the campus. Four indoor exhibits showcase different aspects of maritime life, from global trade to fisheries, where visitors hear and see the stories of the successes and tragedies that have been part of life in coastal Maine. Additional exhibits include the remnants of the last clipper ship, Snow Squall, which carried cargo to ports around the world; a extensive exhibit devoted to the his-
Photo courtesy Maine Maritime Museume
A child’s imagination soars when she pretends to be the skipper of a fanciful tugboat in the recreated tugboat pilothouse display.
tory of the Maine lobstering industry; a working boat shop where one can watch and smell wooden boats being built; and a collection of more than 140 iconic small vintage watercraft.
Points East July 2012
river cruises, on which as many as 10 lighthouses are seen while enjoying the natural environment of Midcoast Maine. What’s New: “Subdue, Seize and Take: Maritime Maine in the War of 1812,” an exhibit (May 26, 2012 to Oct. 12) chronicling the uproar, defiance, double-dealing and confusion along Maine’s coast during the second war with Britain. Admission: Adults: $12, Seniors (65+) $11 and Students (With ID) $11, Child (under 17) - $9, Kids (ages 4 and under) free. By sea: Maine Maritime Museum is located at 43 degrees Photo courtesy Pemaquid Lighthouse 53.689 N, 069 degrees 48.889 W, This is a seagull-eye’s view of Pemaquid Point Lighthouse, in which young folks and 10 miles up the Kennebec River adults alike will delight in the Fisherman’s Museum and the lighthouse structure as from the Gulf of Maine. From well. See the next page for its story. late May to mid-October, the Museum offers a mooring field, During the travel season (late May to mid-October), floating dock space, and a 75-foot pier that can accomadult visitors, in particular, enjoy the behind-the-scenes modate vessels from 60 to 300 feet. Mooring or docking tour of Bath Iron Works, where they can see the Navy’s fee includes up to two admission tickets to the Museum. most modern warships being built; tour the Victorian FMI: 207-443-1316, www.bathmaine.com; Dave Garrihome of a shipbuilder and his family; or take one of six
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Fisherman’s Museum Pemaquid Point Lighthouse Bristol, Maine
Pemaquid Point is one of the most visited attractions on Maine’s coast. The U.S. Coast Guard owns the tower, and the lighthouse opened in 2003 to allow people to go into the lighthouse and up into the tower. Adults enjoy the history of lighthouse and appreciate the importance of keeping history alive. Kids always enjoy going up into the lighthouse and seeing what they can see from there (there is a child height minimum of 48 inches). Annually, on National Lighthouse Day (Aug. 7 this summer), events geared toward kids are planned. The Fisherman’s Museum, owned by the town of Bristol, is more than about lighthouses – it’s about the kinds of fishing in the area and the shipwrecks. It’s not really for young kids, although there are a few hands-on things. Both the tower and museum are part of Lighthouse Park, which has picnic tables and is perched on prominent rock outcroppings that go from the lighthouse down to the water. This is the only lighthouse in Maine open seven days a week in season. Fun Fact: Pemaquid Lighthouse is featured on the Maine State Quarter. By Sea: Hardy Boat Cruises offers a Lighthouse Cruise that motors by various lighthouses. Great fun for kids and adults. Admission: The cost to enter the park is $2 per person. There is no cost to enter the lighthouse tower or museum. FMI: 207-677-2494, www.thefishermensmuseum.org, www.lighthouse.cc/pemaquid; Marty Welt, president of Friends of Pemaquid Lighthouse. www.pointseast.com
14 Hancock St., Portsmouth
Strawbery Banke Museum is a 10-acre set, with 40 historic buildings that tell the 350-year history of the settlement of the seaport of Portsmouth, – the fourth largest port in Colonial America. The real families who lived in this riverside neighborhood, called Puddle Dock,
were ships’ captains, merchants, boatbuilders, craftsmen, influential political figures and immigrants whose fortunes rose and fell with the Atlantic tides. Kids who visit with their parents – and with the many school groups who come because Strawbery Banke, as the proprietors say, puts “history within reach” – enjoy the hands-on opportunity to imagine themselves in past lives while
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learning the rewards of figuring with a movable mast traditionally out how things worked based on used to transport freight up and the remaining evidence in the down the Piscataqua River and walls and the archaeological finds estuarine network of Great Bay. of the Museum. The Gundalow Company uses Adults especially seem to enjoy their boats and the history of the the opportunity to share their own river to tell the story of how imknowledge of the past – American portant the river ecology is to the history and their own family hisquality of life on the seacoast totories – through the exhibits and day. They have just built a new role-players on the Museum Coast Guard-approved, woodgrounds. Strawbery Banke Muhulled gundalow, on the Strawseum’s signature events, such as bery Banke grounds, that will An American Celebration on July enable them to take visitors on4, N.H. Fall Festival in October, board for tours of the river, startand Candlelight Stroll the first ing this summer. three weekends in December, add Of course, Portsmouth itself is a more craftsmen, animals and acwonderful place to visit – a focal tivities to the rich repertoire. The point of New Hampshire’s seaMuseum website has a full decoast, filled with great restauscription of these events and the rants, tax-free shopping, music, Photo courtesy Strawery Banke 40 buildings, the role players, and arts, culture and many other hiswhy Strawbery Banke Museum is A pair of inquisitive youngsters taps into toric sites. Portsmouth is one of such a great place to gather and the horticultural wisdom of Strawbery just 108 “Distinctive Destinations” Banke’s “Mrs. Goodwin,” portrayed by Marlearn about past lives. designated by the National Trust garet Whyte Kelly. Strawbery Banke partners with for Historic Preservation. Several The Gundalow Company, headquartered on the Mu- marinas accommodate visiting boats. seum grounds. The gundalow is a flat-bottomed boat What’s New: “Thread: The Story of New England
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Fashion” showcases 25 garments and accessories from the Museum collections, alongside modern designs inspired by the collection and interpreted by contemporary designers, both prominent international names and ingenues. The exhibit, displayed in lifestyle vignettes in some eight historic houses, shows how clothing helps us understand how people lived in their respective eras – and what fashion says about the social customs and perceptions of the times. Because it is a seaport, Portsmouth has enjoyed a fashion-forward sensibility from colonial times to the present. The influence of fashion from the European capitals of London and Paris, thanks to Portsmouth’s sea captains, is very evident in “Thread.” By sea: The harbor entrance is easily discerned between Whaleback Light – Fl (2) W. ev. 10 s. – and Portsmouth Harbor Light on Fort Point (fixed green, Horn 1 bl. Ev. 10 s.). Off to port, you’ll see the Wentworth-By-The-Sea Hotel standing watch over Little Harbor. At G “5”Fl G 4s, just northwest of Fort Point, you’ll bear west in a very wide and deep channel (with strong tides and currents) toward Portsmouth, on the south shore of the river. Prescott Park municipal docks offers transient dockage. The dockmasters monitor VHF Channel 9. Space is also available at Harbor Place Marina (603-436-0915) off Bow Street, upriver of the Memorial Bridge. Admission: Adults $15, Youths (ages 5-17) $10,
Kids (ages 4 and under) free, Family Rate (two adults and children under 17) $40. FMI: 603-443-1100, www.strawberybanke.org; Stephanie Seacord, director of marketing and communications; The Gundalow Company, www.gundalow.org.
USS Albacore Submarine 600 Market St., Portsmouth
Children love the USS Albacore because there’s a lot of hands-on activity in the submarine. Unlike some other submarine museums, this one doesn’t use Plexiglas to cordon off areas. This submarine is totally interactive with both children and adults. As far as the kids are concerned, they can sleep on the bunks, steer the submarine, look through the periscope, sit in the wardroom, and put their hands right on the engines if they want to. There are lots of dials and buttons and gauges to push, in addition to audio-tour buttons. In the audio tour, there’s a full 30 minutes of explanations for each area. The children come out excited. “Yankee Magazine” voted Albacore Park as the Editors’ Choice in 2011. The award said that the park was the best hands-on historical attraction in New Hampshire. And there are usually no lines. This is an historic submarine from both engineering standpoint and national-defense standpoints. Commissioned in December 1953, Albacore served until September 1972, when she was decommissioned.
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Shaped like a fish, with a cod’s head and a mackerel’s tail, she was extremely maneuverable. From the Albacore Park website: “She could reach 27 knots in short bursts. But speed was not her sole asset. She could do tight turns and dives as if she were a jet plane. In fact, her control room resembled the cockpit of a jet, her diving officer directing her course and depth with a single ‘stick’ while strapped into a bucket seat complete with seat belt. Her crew, as she dived and turned with startling swiftness, hung on to overhead straps like subway riders.” What’s New: The gift shop Photo courtesy USS Albacore is expanded to include much A pair of fledgling submariners prepares to activate the klaxon and sound the iconic more submarine memora- “Dive! Dive! alarm aboard the USS Albacore at Portsmouth's Albacore Park. bilia. Working on creating more hands-on displays in the Visitor’s Center to ex- It is a relatively “undiscovered” museum conveniently located to both I-95 and I-495 in Amesbury. They conplain the scientific concepts of submarines. By sea: The submarine is landlocked. Dock farther sider themselves unique in that they’re a working mudown the river at one of the docking areas and then seum building traditional wooden boats. Unlike many other working boat shops, you can walk into Lowell’s walk (roughly 20 minutes). Admission: Adults $5, Children (7-17) $3, Children and see a boat under construction, ask questions of the under 7 free, Military $4, Family $10. FMI: 603-436- boatbuilder, and get a personalized tour of the boat3680, www.ussalbacore.org; John Maier, executive di- building operations. Kids often get a chance to have a go with some of the rector. tools during their visit and learn the art of working wood with hand tools and riveting. For adults, the shop has surprises in every corner. Boats are constantly revolving through the building floor, so there is always something new to see, and the builders are always on hand to answer any manner of question put to them. In the museum, visitors will see some of Lowell’s Boats through the ages including a sailing dory from the 1880s and an inboard power dory from about 1905. In addition to being a working boat shop and museum, Lowell’s offers classes in boatbuilding, tool sharpening, oar making, and just about any other marine craft you can think of. Lessons in the proper use of a What’s New: Building a 27-foot pulling boat for a spoke shave are offered at LowBoy Scout camp. Fundraising to build a whaleboat for ell’s Boat Shop, on the shores of the Charles W. Morgan; $100,000 is needed to build the Merrimack River. the boat with local high-school students. These funds will also be used to do outreach and host schools to Photo courtesy Lowell’s Boat Shop come in and learn about the Morgan, whaling and whaleboats. By Sea: Come in the mouth of the Merrimack River Lowell’s Boat Shop through Newburyport Harbor, continue up the river 459 Main St., Amesbury about two miles (follow the channel markers) until you Lowell’s Boat Shop is a great place to visit – period.
34 Points East July 2012
go under a big green bridge where I-95 spans the river. About another half-mile upriver, you’ll see a red building on the north bank with “Lowell’s Boat Shop” painted on the side in white letters. Dock and moorings are available May through October. Admission: Adults $5, Students and Seniors $4, Guided Tours $8, Kids under 12 free. FMI: 978-8340050, www.lowellsboatshop.com; Graham McKay, boatshop manager.
New England Pirate Museum 274 Derby St., Salem
The kids love it because it’s a guided tour led by a pirate who walks them through the 25-minute tour stopping at each scene. Depending on the age, kids really believe he’s a pirate. The tour guides interact and keep the pirate-speak going. The adults get a kick out of a guy in costume acting like a pirate, talking about his “friends.” Each pirate tour guide has a different flavor and flair, and most
are theater students from Salem State University. Nearly all have a theater background. What’s New: Every tour is different because each pirate . . . er, guide has a unique personality. By sea: Salem Water Taxi offers transient moorings and a launch service. From there, it’s a five-minute walk to museums, shops and restaurants. Brewer Hawthorne Cove Marina offers slips. The walk to the Pirate Museum is roughly eight minutes. Admission: Adults $8, Children (4-13) $6, Seniors $7. Save $5 per person by purchasing a combination ticket to two additional museums, the Witch Dungeon Museum and the Witch History Museum, both within walking distance. FMI: 978-741-2800, www.piratemuseum.com; Nancy Hurrell, owner
Rhode Island Herreshoff Marine Museum/America’s Cup Hall of Fame One Burnside Street, Bristol
Photo courtesy N.E. Pirate Museum
Some pirates are mannequins while others are theater students from Salem State University.
The Museum is a fanciful place for kids to visit because they can climb aboard three of the exhibits: sailboats Clara, Torch, and the motor vessel Thania. Your children will enjoy the atmospheric cabins of these historic vessels while you will appreciate the remarkable craftsmanship and period details. The hall of boats includes catamarans, cruisers, rac-
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ers, and the 1859 catboat Sprite, the oldest Herreshoff vessel, built when John Brown Herreshoff was 19, and his brother, The Wizard of Bristol, Nathanael Greene Herreshoff, was 11. The story of hurricanes, wars, automobiles (Herreshoff-built), and airplanes (Herreshoff-built) is told on the timeline wall. Steam engines, model boats, photographs, and the old buildings themselves complete the collection. Activities and programs include yacht charters (Kestrel is a 43-foot beauty from 1927), overnight sailing trips, a summer learn-to-sail program, an afterschool program in the boat shop, and an in-school program. Adults enjoy the manufacturing and business story. Herreshoff ’s design, manufacturing and construction technologies were generations ahead of their time. Even Henry Ford came to Bristol to understand the manufacturing processes. The assembly line and other techniques of mass production were pioneered here. Cars and planes also were built here. Nat Herreshoff had a patent on his catamaran design in 1897! What’s new: A model boat program, part of the Young Mariners Discovery Center. Early fin-keel boats Wee Winn (1892) and Jilt (1898) will be on display after years in storage. Construction of a new waterfront home for the America’s Cup Hall of Fame will begin this year, according to the Museum website. By Sea: The Herreshoff Marine Museum/America’s
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Cup Hall of Fame is 12 miles north of Newport. Enter either side of Hog Island. On the east shore of the harbor, a half-mile south of the main mooring area, look for the waterfront tent, large finger pier, and the America’s Cup Class yacht on the lawn. Dockage and moorings are available at the Museum’s waterfront. Reservations are recommended and may be made by calling the Museum, or you may hail them on VHF Channel 68. Note: The Museum does not provide launch service. Admission: Adult $9, Senior $8, Student with ID, military personnel, and children (11-17) $5, Children 10 and under free. FMI: 401-253-5000, www.herreshoff.org; Richard A. Feeny, sailing master and educator.
Rose Island Lighthouse and Museum P.O. Box 1419, Newport
Rose Island Lighthouse is located on an 18-acre island minutes away from Newport – “a mile offshore and a century in the past.” The restored working lighthouse is one of only a few operating lighthouses maintained by working vacationers. Rose Island Light is also listed in the National Register of Historic Places. You have to take a boat to get to the lighthouse, which is unusual for a field trip. The adults and the kids enjoy the ferry ride. The lighthouse appeals to most all ages because the kids get to see a lifestyle
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theyâ€™ve never seen before and the parents may see something familiar. That makes it definitely desirable for a family trip. It is going to the beach, too, because there are two beautiful beaches on either side of the lighthouse. If the kids are staying for the day, they can bring their gear and basically just camp out on the beach just like theyâ€™ve gone to any other beach. The parents can let the kids just run because thereâ€™s nowhere for them to get into trouble. Thereâ€™s a lot of beach glass around the lighthouse, which is nice for both parents and kids to collect. Families can also stay at the operating lighthouse. There are two â€œkeeperâ€? options: Stay overnight in the first floor museum or become a Photo courtesy Rose Island Lighthouse keeper for a week in the upstairs apartment. Available year-round. The Rose Island Lighthouse is on an 18-acre island minutes away from Newport but upstairs apartment has a microwave, â€œa mile offshore and a century in the past.â€? Itâ€™s one of the few operating lightstove and refrigerator, as well as bunk houses maintained by working vacationers. beds for the kids. Points Eastâ€™s editor, while an overnight guest at the lighthouseâ€™s barbecues. By sea: The Jamestown Ferry provides daily translighthouse, caught a bluefish on the southeast corner of the island and cooked it for supper on one of the portation to Rose Island during the summer months
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