LIVING on the peninsula
A healing path through history
Chief Chetzemokaâ€™s legacy bonds community
Leaders of distinction
Cultural values guide Jamestown Sâ€™Klallam Tribal Council
Navigating the future
Elwha traditions help chart course forward An advertising supplement produced by Peninsula Daily News & Sequim Gazette
FaLL 2019 | Living on the PeninsuLa
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FALL 2019 | Living on the Peninsula 3
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06 | peninsula events calendar
Table of Contents
Check out what’s happening on the Peninsula in September, October, November & December
08 | a pinch of peninsula Linda’s Wood Fired Kitchen serves more to guests than just pizza
11 | outdoor recreation Quileute Oceanside Resort offers ample hiking opportunities
15 | navigating the future
Elwha traditions help chart course forward
19 | a healing path through history Chief Chetzemoka’s legacy bonds community
25 | weaving tradition into today Hoh Tribe embraces its heritage
29 | leaders of distinction Cultural values guide Jamestown S’Klallam Tribal Council
33 | the daytripper Makah Days outing yields history, tradition and fish
37 | jamestown s’klallam tribal library Place of refuge & ‘endless learning’
38 | the living end Sky dance
LIVING ON THE PENINSULA
Vol. 15, No. 3 Produced and published by PENINSULA DAILY NEWS and SEQUIM GAZETTE Advertising Department 305 W. First St., Port Angeles, WA 98362 • 360-452-2345 • peninsuladailynews.com 147 W. Washington St., Sequim, WA 98382 • 360-683-3311 • sequimgazette.com Terry R. Ward, regional publisher Steve Perry, general manager | Eran Kennedy, advertising director Shawna Dixson & Laura Foster, special sections editors Denise Buchner, Jeanette Elledge, Vivian Hansen, Harmony Liebert, Joylena Owen and Marilyn Parrish, advertising sales team ©2019 Peninsula Daily News | ©2019 Sequim Gazette
FaLL 2019 | Living on the PeninsuLa
CALENDAR OF EVENTS SEPTEMBER
• Sept. 12-15: Forever Twilight in Forks, various locations and times. forkswa.com/forevertwilightinforks • Sept. 17: Forks History and More, First Congregational Church, 280 Spartan Ave., 11:30 a.m. • Sept. 28: Olympic National Park free entrance to celebrate National Public Lands Day. • Sept. 28: Neah Bay Fest, Makah Community Gym, 1394 Bayview Ave., times vary. Ticket prices TBA. neahbaywa.com PORT ANGELES
• Sept. 14: RunAMuck with Pennies for Quarters, Extreme Sports Park 2517 W. Edgewood, heats at 11 a.m., noon and 1 p.m.; dog heat at 2 p.m. Registration prices vary. getmeregistered.com/ RunAMuckPortAngeles • Sept. 14: Second Weekend Artwalk, downtown, 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. portangelesdowntown.com • Sept. 20-21: Arts & Draughts Beer & Wine Festival, Laurel Street, admission prices and times vary. portangelesbeerfest.com • Sept. 28: The Big Hurt, locations, times and prices vary. bighurtpa.com • Sept. 27: Pops & Picnic with the Port Angeles Symphony Orchestra and guest artists, Vern Burton Community Center, 308 E. Fourth St., 7 p.m. $20 admission includes music, beverages and dessert; bring a picnic. portangelessymphony.org • Sept. 28: Olympic National Park free entrance to celebrate National Public Lands Day. • Sept. 28: Pops & Picnic with the Port Angeles Symphony Orchestra and guest artists, Vern Burton Community Center, 308 E. Fourth St., 1 p.m. $20 admission includes music, beverages and dessert; bring a picnic. portangelessymphony.org SEQUIM
• Morning Bird Walks, Wednesdays throughout the year, Dungeness River Audubon Center in Railroad Bridge Park, 2151 West Hendrickson Road, 8:30 a.m. to 10:30 a.m. • Sept. 14: Learn by the Light of the Moon, Dungeness River Audubon Center, 2151 West Hendrickson Road, 7 p.m. dungenessrivercenter.org • Sept. 14: Dungeness Valley Health & Wellness Clinic Fun Walk, Trinity Methodist Church, 100 N. Blake Ave., 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. sequimfreeclinic.org • Sept. 21: KSQM Pet Lover’s Day, Carrie Blake Park, 202 N. Blake Ave., 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. ksqmfm.com • Sept. 21: Fore The Kids Olympic Peninsula YMCA Golf Tournament, The Cedars at Dungeness, 1965 Woodcock Road, times and registration fees vary. olympicpeninsulaymca.org/golftournament • Sept. 27: Dungeness River Festival, Railroad Bridge Park, 2151 W. Hendrickson Road, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. dungenessrivercenter.org/dungeness-river-festival • Sept. 27-29: Blue Hole Bash Pickleball Tournament, Carrie Blake Park, 202 N. Blake Ave., times and registration fees vary. sequimpicklers.net • Sept. 28-29: Reach and Row For Hospice, John Wayne Marina, 2577 W. Sequim Bay Road, times and ticket prices vary. sequimbayyacht.club/ reach-for-hospice PORT TOWNSEND/JEFFERSON COUNTY
• Sept. 14: Olympic Discovery Trail Blaze Ball and Auction, Finnriver Orchard & Cider Garden, 124 Center Road, Chimacum, 2 p.m. to 10 p.m. $25. olympicdiscoverytrail.org
6 Living on the Peninsula | FALL 2019
• Sept. 14: Quilcene Fair and Parade, Quilcene School Grounds, 294715 U.S. Highway 101, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. quilcenefair.com • Sept. 15: Quilcene Oyster Half-Marathon, 10K Run and 5K Run, 151 E. Columbia St., time and registration prices vary. runsignup.com/Race/WA/ Quilcene/QuilceneOysterRaces • Sept. 19-22: Port Townsend Film Festival, Rose Theatre, 235 Taylor St., times and tickets prices vary. ptfilmfest.com • Sept. 21: Concerts in the Woods: Rupert Wates, Laurel B. Johnson Community Center, 923 Hazel Point Road, Quilcene, 7:30 p.m. By donation. coyleconcerts.com • Sept. 21-22: Jefferson County Farm Tour, various farms, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. extension.wsu.edu/jefferson/ agriculture/farm-tour/ • Sept. 25: European Beer Tour, Sirens Pub, 823 Water St., 6 p.m. $50. sirenspub.com • Sept. 28: Opera Port Townsend Opera Gala, First Presbyterian Church, 1111 Franklin St., 7 p.m. $15. m.bpt.me/event/4309235
• Oct. 5-6: Hobuck Hoedown Paddle Surf Festival at Hobuck Beach in Neah Bay, various times. • Oct. 9-13: Hickory Shirt/Heritage Days, many events at Rainforest Arts Center, 35 N. Forks Ave., times vary. • Oct. 11-12, 18-19, 25-26, 31: Rain of Terror Haunted House, Quillayute Valley Airport, 5144 Quillayute Road in Forks, 7 p.m. to midnight. $10. • Oct. 12: Fish & Brew, Rainforest Arts Center, 35 N. Forks Ave., 1 p.m. to 4 p.m. • Oct. 12: Gold Star Families Memorial Monument dedication, Forks Transit Center, 1 p.m. • Oct. 15: Forks History and More, First Congregational Church, 280 Spartan Ave., 11:30 a.m. • Oct. 31: Truck or Treat, Forks Assembly of God, 81 Huckleberry Lane, 6 p.m. to 8 p.m. PORT ANGELES
• Oct. 3: Voices for Veterans “Stand Down,” Clallam County Fairgrounds, 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. voicesforveterans.org/stand-down.html • Oct. 5: Walk to End Alzheimer’s, City Pier, 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. act.alz.org/walk • Oct. 5: Bewitching Tea & Silent Auction, Naval Elks Lodge, 131 E. First St., 1 p.m. to 3 p.m. $35. sijetset.com • Oct. 11: Port Angeles Chamber Orchestra with guest harpist Elizabeth Huston, Holy Trinity Lutheran Church, 301 Lopez Ave., 7 p.m. $15 for adults; kids are free. portangelessymphony.org • Oct. 11-13: Dungeness Crab & Seafood Festival, City Pier, Gateway Transit Center and other downtown locations, various times. Crabfestival.org • Oct. 11-31: Haunted Underground Heritage Tours, Port Angeles Visitors Center, 121 E. Railroad Ave., times vary. $17 or $19. portangelesheritagetours.com • Oct. 12: Second Weekend Artwalk, downtown, 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. portangelesdowntown.com • Oct. 18-20: Forest Storytelling Festival, Peninsula College’s Little Theater, 1502 E. Lauridsen Blvd., times and ticket prices vary. Clallamstorypeople.org • Oct. 31: Downtown Trick-or-Treat, variety of downtown businesses, 2 p.m. to 5 p.m.
• Morning Bird Walks, Wednesdays throughout the year, Dungeness River Audubon Center in Railroad Bridge Park, 2151 West Hendrickson Road, 8:30 a.m. to 10:30 a.m. • Oct. 4: First Friday Art Walk, various locations, 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. sequimartwalk.com • Oct. 4: First Friday Meet the Artist!, Blue Whole Gallery, 129 W. Washington St., 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. bluewholegallery.com • Oct. 4-13: “A Greater Tuna,” Olympic Theatre Arts, 414 N. Sequim Ave., times and ticket prices vary. olympictheatrearts.org • Oct. 5: Waterfront Day, John Wayne Marina, 2577 W. Sequim Bay Road, times TBA. portofpa.com/392/ Waterfront-Day • Oct. 5: WAG Dogtoberfest, Guy Cole Center at Carrie Blake Park, 202 N. Blake Ave., 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. $49.95 per person. wagsequimwa.com • Oct. 12: Port Angeles Chamber Orchestra with guest harpist Elizabeth Huston, Trinity United Methodist Church, 100 S. Blake Ave., 7 p.m. $15 for adults; kids are free. portangelessymphony.org • Oct. 31: Downtown Trick-or-Treat, downtown Sequim, 3 p.m. to 5 p.m. PORT TOWNSEND/JEFFERSON COUNTY
• Oct. 3: Main Street Girls’ Night Out, locations vary, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. $25. ptmainstreet.org/girls-night-out • Oct. 3-Oct. 19: “Sea Marks,” Key City Playhouse, 419 Washington St., times and ticket prices vary. keycitypublictheatre.org • Oct. 5: Monthly Art Walk, Port Townsend art galleries, 5:30 p.m. to 8 p.m. ptguide.com/arts-musictheatre/gallery-walks • Oct. 5: Concerts in the Woods: A Night of Blues Guitar with John Long and John Maxwell, Laurel B. Johnson Community Center, 923 Hazel Point Road, Quilcene, 7:30 p.m. By donation. coyleconcerts.com • Oct. 5-6: The Great Port Townsend Bay Kinetic Sculpture Race, American Legion Post No. 26, 209 Monroe St., Port Townsend, times vary. ptkineticrace.org • Oct. 11-12, 18-19, 24-26, 31: Haunt Town, Port Townsend Elks Lodge, 555 Otto St., 7 p.m. to 10 p.m. $12 per person, 13 and older. • Oct. 19: Run the Peninsula-Larry Scott Trail 5K/10K, West Sims Way, 9:30 a.m. Entry fees vary. runthepeninsula.com • Oct. 20: Concerts in the Woods: Cavort with Tami Curtis, Laurel B. Johnson Community Center, 923 Hazel Point Road, Quilcene, 3 p.m. By donation. coyleconcerts.com • Oct. 24: Haunt Town (youth special), Port Townsend Elks Lodge, 555 Otto St., 7 p.m. to 8 p.m. $5 for kids 13 and younger with full price paid adult. • Oct. 26: Divined Costume Ball, American Legion Post No. 26, 209 Monroe St., Port Townsend, 5 p.m. to 12:30 a.m. $25 or $40. gypsyvibrations.com/divined • Oct. 31: Port Townsend Main Street Downtown Trick-or-Treat and Costume Parade, parade starts at 1st Security Plaza, 734 Water St., 4 p.m.; trick-ortreat continues through 5:30 p.m. ptmainstreet.org/ downtown-tick-or-treat/ • Oct. 18-20 and Oct. 25-27: Kiwanis Haunt Town, Port Townsend Elks Lodge, 555 Otto St.
• Nov. 11: Olympic National Park free entrance to celebrate Veterans Day. • Nov. 19: Forks History and More, First Congregational Church, 280 Spartan Ave., 11:30 a.m. • Nov. 22: 5th annual Turkey Trot, run or walk the Elk Creek Conservation Trail in Forks, sign up at 8:15 a.m., race starts at 9 a.m. $10 donation toward United Way of Clallam County requested but not required. PORT ANGELES
• Nov. 9: Port Angeles Symphony Orchestra with guest artist Monique Mead, Port Angeles High School Performing Arts Center, 304 E. Park Ave., 7:30 p.m. $12-$30; kids 16 and younger are free. portangelessymphony.org • Nov. 9: Second Weekend Artwalk, downtown, 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. portangelesdowntown.com • Nov. 9-10: Harvest Wine Tour, locations, times and ticket prices vary. olympicpeninsulawineries.org • Nov. 11: Olympic National Park Free Entrance Day to celebrate Veterans Day. • Nov. 22-Jan. 20: Winter Ice Village & Ice Skating, across from Odyssey Bookshop, 114 W. Front St., times and ticket prices vary. visitportangeles.com/ event/winter-ice-village-ice-skating/ • Nov. 23: Hometown Holiday Tree Lighting and Santa arrival, Conrad Dyar Memorial Fountain, start time TBA. portangelesdowntown.com • Nov. 29-Dec. 1: Festival of Trees, Vern Burton Community Center, 308 E. Fourth St., times and prices vary. omhf.org/festival-of-trees SEQUIM
• Morning Bird Walks, Wednesdays throughout the year, Dungeness River Audubon Center in Railroad Bridge Park, 2151 West Hendrickson Road, 8:30 a.m. to 10:30 a.m. • Nov. 1: First Friday Art Walk, various locations, 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. sequimartwalk.com • Nov. 1: First Friday Meet the Artist!, Blue Whole Gallery, 129 W. Washington St., 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. bluewholegallery.com • Nov. 8-24: “Silent Sky,” Olympic Theatre Arts, 414 N. Sequim Ave., times and ticket prices vary. olympictheatrearts.org • Nov. 9-10: Harvest Wine Tour, locations, times and ticket prices vary. olympicpeninsulawineries.org PORT TOWNSEND/JEFFERSON COUNTY
• Nov. 1-2: Haunted Histories & Mysteries, downtown Port Townsend, ticketing information TBA. ptmainstreet.org/haunted-histories-mysteriesof-port-townsend/ • Nov. 2: Monthly Art Walk, Port Townsend art galleries, 5:30 p.m. to 8 p.m. ptguide.com/arts-musictheatre/gallery-walks • Nov. 3: Concerts in the Woods: March to May, Laurel B. Johnson Community Center, 923 Hazel Point Road, Quilcene, 3 p.m. By donation. coyleconcerts.com • Nov. 9-10: Harvest Wine Tour, locations, times and ticket prices vary. olympicpeninsulawineries.org • Nov. 10: Concerts in the Woods: The Lasses, Laurel B. Johnson Community Center, 923 Hazel Point Road, Quilcene, 3 p.m. By donation. coyleconcerts.com • Nov. 11: Port Townsend Summer Band Veterans Day Concert, American Legion Post No. 26, 209 Monroe St., Port Townsend, 10:30 a.m. ptsummerband.org
• Nov. 17: Concerts in the Woods: Don Alder, Laurel B. Johnson Community Center, 923 Hazel Point Road, Quilcene, 3 p.m. and 5 p.m. By donation. coyleconcerts.com • Nov. 29-30: Port Townsend Arts Guild Holiday Craft Sale, Port Townsend Community Center, 620 Tyler St., 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. porttownsendartsguild.org • Nov. 29-Dec. 27: “Mercy Falls,” 419 Washington St., times and ticket prices vary. keycitypublictheatre.org
• Dec. 12-29: “Spirit of the Yule,” Key City Playhouse, 419 Washington St., times and ticket prices vary. keycitypublictheatre.org
• Dec. 15: Open Parlor Tours, self-guided tour of historic inns and homes in Port Townsend, noon to 4 p.m.
• Dec. 6: 18th annual Cherish Our Children beneﬁt dinner and silent auction, Forks Elks Lodge, 941 Merchants Road, 5 p.m. • Dec. 7: Breakfast with Santa, Forks Congregational Church, 280 Spartan Ave., 8 a.m. to 11 a.m. Adults are $5, kids are $3, pictures with Santa are $5. • Dec. 7: 18th annual Twinkle Light Parade on Forks Avenue, 6:30 p.m. to 6:45 p.m. • Dec. 7: Moonlight Madness, shop at Forks area merchants, 7 p.m. to 10 p.m. • Dec. 7-8: Soroptimist International of the Olympic Rain Forest Festival of Trees, Rainforest Arts Center, 35 N. Forks Ave., various times. • Dec. 17: Forks History and More, First Congregational Church, 280 Spartan Ave.,11:30 a.m.
• Dec. 1: Main Street Treelighting Celebration and Santa Visit, treelighting and Santa visit, Haller Fountain, 4:30 p.m. Santa visits with children afterwards at Pope Marine Building, 100 Madison St. • Dec. 8 and 15: Main Street/Kiwanis Choo Choo Rides for Families, at Pope Marine Park, on Water Street between Madison and Monroe streets, 1 p.m. to 4 p.m.
All event information listed here was up to date at the time of printing. For future event submissions, email Shawna Dixson at email@example.com. Please note that publication of submitted events is not guaranteed.
• Through Jan. 20: Winter Ice Village & Ice Skating, across from Odyssey Bookshop, 114 W. Front St., times and ticket prices vary. visitportangeles.com/ event/winter-ice-village-ice-skating/ • Dec. 7-8: Vern Burton Christmas Fair, Vern Burton Community Center, 308 E. Fourth St., 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Dec. 7; 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Dec. 8. cityofpa.us • Dec. 14: Port Angeles Symphony Orchestra Holiday Concert, Port Angeles High School Performing Arts Center, 304 E. Park Ave.; public dress rehearsal at 10 a.m.; pre-concert chat at 6:40 p.m.; performance at 7:30 p.m. $12-$30; kids 16 and younger are free. portangelessymphony.org • Dec. 14: Second Weekend Artwalk, downtown, 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. portangelesdowntown.com SEQUIM
• Morning Bird Walks, Wednesdays throughout the year, Dungeness River Audubon Center in Railroad Bridge Park, 2151 West Hendrickson Road, 8:30 a.m. to 10:30 a.m. • Dec. 6: First Friday Art Walk, various locations, 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. sequimartwalk.com • Dec. 6: First Friday Meet the Artist!, Blue Whole Gallery, 129 W. Washington St., 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. bluewholegallery.com • Dec. 13-22: “Another Night Before Christmas,” Olympic Theatre Arts, 414 N. Sequim Ave., times and ticket prices vary. olympictheatrearts.org PORT TOWNSEND/JEFFERSON COUNTY
• Dec. 7: Monthly Art Walk, Port Townsend art galleries, 5:30 p.m. to 8 p.m. ptguide.com/arts-musictheatre/gallery-walks • Dec. 7: Run the Peninsula-Jamestown S’Klallam 5K/10K, Jamestown Tribal Campus in Blyn, 4:30 p.m. Entry fees vary. Runthepeninsula.com • Dec. 7-8: Chimacum Craft Fair, 91 West Valley Road, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. chimacumarts.com
Pigs munch on pea shoots at SisterLand Farms in Port Angeles. Photo by Shawna Dixson
2019 FARMERS MARKETS
PORT ANGELES FARMERS MARKET Saturdays at the corner of Front and Lincoln streets, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Visit farmersmarketportangeles.com.
SEQUIM FARMERS MARKET Saturdays at Civic Center Plaza, 9 a.m. to 3 p.m., May 4-Oct. 26. Visit sequimmarket.com. FORKS OPEN AIRE MARKET Saturdays at Umpqua Bank Parking Lot, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., May-October. Call 360-3746918 or email firstname.lastname@example.org. PORT TOWNSEND FARMERS MARKET Saturdays on Tyler and Laurence streets, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m., April 6-Dec. 21. Visit jcfmarkets.org. CHIMACUM FARMERS MARKET: Sundays at 9122 Rhody Drive, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., June 2-Oct. 27. Visit jcfmarkets.org/sunday.
FaLL 2019 | Living on the PeninsuLa
A PINCH OF PENINSULA WOOD-FIRED
Linda’s Wood Fired Kitchen serves more to guests than just pizza Linda’s wood-fired oven warming up. Story and photos by Shawna Dixson
The difference is that my guests pay me, which is a reversal of the culture where the host provides all the food and more to his guests, and makes sure that they leave with lots. “Of course we have to charge. I mean, that’s the only way to pay the mortgage. But as I see it, they are my guests, and I have to make sure that they have a good experience.” When the restaurant gets too busy and wait times are longer than Greg would like, he pulls out his storytelling skills, another cornerstone of his Makah heritage. “If there are families with young children, I have a bunch of children stories that I can share,” Greg said. “There is one story I kind of emphasize, and that is the story of the raven stealing salmon from the eagle, and how two ravens pulled it off. It happened right in the back street. My wife saw it and told me the story,” he laughed.
inda’s Wood Fired Kitchen is an unassuming eatery in Neah Bay revered for its outstanding hospitality. Linda Colfax, who grew up on a farm outside Forks on the Bogachiel River, started her restaurant with the help of her husband, Greg Colfax, a member of the Makah Tribe. The couple also run a small inn, housed above the restaurant. As part of the Neah Bay community, the Colfax family personifies the Makah tradition of hospitality, even lamenting that they have to charge for their services. “As a Makah person, hosting visitors is a very, very important element of Makah culture,” Greg said. “I see this restaurant as an extension of that — being a host.
“My wife’s cleaning fish. She chucks out a piece of fish in the road. An eagle comes, picks it up and lights on a tree stump across the street. So he’s up on the stump with the fish in his talons, and all of the sudden, shwoo, here comes a raven. And he’s looking up. The eagle’s looking down. And suddenly, that raven starts to pick up sticks and twigs and stuff and throws them in the air … hops and throws them. The eagle’s looking … and he goes all the way around the stump. All around, and he’s picking up and throwing stuff. Then he flies away. Less than a minute later, there’s two ravens, and the whole routine starts again. And the eagle’s looking, he’s looking … and, of course, you know what’s coming.
While most people think “pizza” when wood ovens are mentioned — and their pizza is superb — this little eatery also serves outstanding fresh ﬁsh, plus salads, soups and a daily baked good. They even have a gluten-free pizza option, as long as you call at least an hour ahead so they can make the dough fresh. Like many businesses in Neah Bay, Linda’s doesn’t have solid hours. During the summer, they are open from afternoon to evening, Wednesdays through Mondays (closed Tuesdays). After Labor Day, hours depend on what’s going on in the village.
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8 Living on the PeninsuLa | FaLL 2019
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When he’s all around this way, the second raven jumps up, grabs the piece of fish and both ravens take off. He was piqued. He got taken advantage of. It’s an endless battle between the ravens and the eagles — all up and down the coast — and this is just one of them. There’s more going on out there than we know.” Although Greg grew up around parents who ran a Neah Bay restaurant, Rosie’s Cafe, he emphasized that Linda, not he, was the driving force in starting their business. “I am not a ‘restaurateur.’ I am not a ‘motelier,’ ” Greg said. “Linda, in 2004, joined the Peace Corps. She did service on the Island of Dominica, working with the Caribs, the traditional native people on that island. Right up the road from where she was staying, a man had built a cinder block, coconut [husk]-fired oven that he baked bread in. So she thought, ‘Hey. I’d really like to have one of them.’ So when she came home, she said she wanted a wood-fired bakery.” The restaurant is designed around its wood-fired oven, built using plans purchased from a man in Australia. According to Greg, their oven weighs close to 17,000 pounds. Its mass and insulation allow it to hold heat very well, running around 600-700 degrees during normal operations. In the morning, the residual heat is perfect for baking bread. Linda uses it to make whatever she’s in the mood for. Cinnamon rolls, cookies, cakes and pies seem to show up the most on their Facebook page. “The limiting factor is the ability of the cook to heat up different parts of the floor of the oven and cook on that while another part is warming up,” Greg said. “Pizzas, when you’re really busy, will pull a lot of heat out of the bricks, so you have
to shuffle them. That’s where the tricky part comes in. You have to feed the fire while you’re cooking. “It’s a complex restaurant, in the sense that it is wood-fired, [but] not for Linda. Her mother had a wood-fired stove and oven, which was typical back then. By the time she was 12, she was cooking for 12, 13, 14 people a night. Her ability to work with a wood-fired oven comes kind of natural to her.” However, funding the restaurant venture was difficult. Greg attributes their success to many factors, starting with the land, gifted by his greatgrandmother Katie Hunter, and a tribebacked loan he was able to access due to his status as a Makah tribal member. Despite these and other windfalls, they didn’t have enough money to finish the restaurant immediately. With only a shell of a building and an extension cord from the house, the couple put a sign out front advertising “pizza” in 2006, so they could make their new mortgage payments. After the Makah Museum purchased two large statues crafted by Greg that now adorn the museum’s lawn, plus the sale of timber from family lands, Greg was able to finish the building, and Linda’s Wood Fired Kitchen officially opened in 2008. “People like the pizzas,” Greg said. “The pizzas are our ‘bread and butter.’ They pay the bills.” According to Greg, Linda spent two to three weeks before opening her restaurant to get her recipes right. With a focus on sourcing high-quality ingredients, she developed flavors and textures that please the palate. Her dough is just the right amount of chewy, with a delicate crust — like al dente pasta. Her sauce lets the natural sweetness of perfectly ripe tomatoes shine, and the cheeses she found have a satisfying stringiness to them.
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Instead of relying on heavy seasoning or excessive salt, Linda clearly took the time to find quality ingredients that could do the heavy lifting. “We strive to make the best that we can with the materials that we get,” Greg said. “We have experimented by going further afield in gathering our materials.” Although they make the long drive from Neah Bay to Sequim/Dungeness farm stores once a week for fresh supplies like vegetables, they purchase fresh fish directly from local fishermen. “I just go across the street to the dock and buy nice white king salmon or a lingcod, or any of the fish that are coming in,” Greg said. “Then, because it’s being cooked in this oven — it’s baked in the oven — and because of how that oven works, the heat structure of it all and how the air is coming in and the smoke and air is coming out, it seals the flesh. So it gets cooked and it’s moist, which is one of the qualities of baking fish that is missing in many, many places.” They serve fish on its own, with roasted vegetables and other sides, but they also do a smoked salmon pizza, with the skin on, that is distinctly wonderful. Paired with her standard tomato sauce and a blend of white and yellow cheeses, the toppings are plentiful and balanced. Linda also gathers seasonal ingredients like chanterelle and porcini mushrooms from the nearby forests, incorporating whatever is at peak quality into menu offerings. Her chanterelle pizza uses a different cheese blend from her smoked salmon pizza, and replaces tomato sauce with garlic-infused olive oil and an herb blend. “What I have come away knowing is that it’s a lot easier to run a motel than it is to run a restaurant,” Greg said. “The cleaning is endless. Then there’s training. Of course, you can’t afford to pay a lot for your help, so there’s a lot of slack that needs to be taken up.
“I told Linda from the beginning, ‘I am not a cook. I am not a house cleaner. I’m not gonna do dishes, mop the floor, make beds, clean toilets.’ “She said, ‘fine, fine, fine.’ So I signed. “Well, I have cleaned a lot of toilets. I have made a lot of beds, washed a lot of dishes. It is even worse than I thought it would be,” Greg joked, “but I don’t regret it, because we were working together. “There’s something about a husband and wife, working together on one idea, one project. I was her partner. She took the lead. She was the one who made sure all the food was done and that the whole place remained healthy. “That’s our main thing,” Greg said, “keep the place clean and serve good, fresh food, well-cooked.”
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QUILEUTE Oceanside Resort First Beach vacation base offers ample hiking opportunities Story and photos by Michael Dashiell
estled on the mile-long, crescent-shaped stretch of land just south of the Quillayute River, La Push is home to the Quileute Tribe, which has called this place home from time immemorial. The Quileutes are historically known for their seafaring culture, elegant carvings, textiles and other practical craft skills — their largest cedar canoes were ocean vessels capable of hauling three tons of freight. Building on its traditions and entrepreneurial spirit, the Quileute Tribe of today is a robust, enterprisebased community with tourism and fishing at its center. The tribe’s website notes that the remote location of La Push was a determining factor in the success of its primary industries. Once you’re there, surrounded by wilderness for miles in every direction, it’s hard to disagree. With a marina offering fishing charters for much of the year, the River’s Edge restaurant and several lodging facilities, La Push is a popular place for those seeking a quiet getaway amid the natural wonders of the Northwest Coast. The La Push area is home to a number of activities for visitors and Peninsula locals alike. Outdoor activities of all kinds are available here: birdwatching, surfing, whale-spotting and kayaking, as well as guided tours for hunting, river fishing, rafting and sightseeing. The area is also popular with fans of Stephenie Meyer’s “Twilight” series, in which La Push is featured as the home of “Jacob” and the wolf pack, fictional Quileute characters.
Quileute Oceanside Resort & RV Park offers a variety of lodgings — from luxury cabins to tent sites — to take in the natural beauty of First Beach. Photo by John Leavitt, courtesy of the Quileute Tribe RESORT FOR BASE CAMP A good spot to center oneself in this region — whether it’s in luxury or more modest surroundings — is the Quileute Oceanside Resort & RV Park, a vacation getaway that dates back to cabins built in the 1930s. Nestled up against and commanding a perfect view of First Beach, the resort offers a variety of accommodations: deluxe and standard stand-alone cabins, two large motel-style buildings (named “Whale” and “Thunderbird”), camper cabins, two full-service RV parks and several primitive tent sites.
Accented with authentic Quileute art, units feature kitchens or minikitchens and most provide unblocked views of First Beach’s crashing waves. Many units are pet-friendly, and a small permit fee allows visitors to build beach campfires. The resort also is adjacent to the Lonesome Creek Store for sundries. According to James Jaime, enterprise director with Quileute Tribal Enterprises, the resort is a key economic driver for the Quileute Tribe, with a staff of 60 to 70 during the peak five-month season from
May into late September; other tribes in the area, such as the Jamestown S’Klallam, Makah and Quinault, are investing in similar entities. There’s potential for growth here, too, Jaime said. Besides the Kalaloch Resort (about an hour to the south, by car), Oceanside is the only resort for travelers of the Northwest coast between Ocean Shores and Neah Bay. “We’re kind of in-between,” he said. “It’s a good base for [visitors] when they want to go out hiking. Another segment just wants to stay and watch the storms — enjoy the natural beauty.”
FaLL 2019 | Living on the PeninsuLa
It’s a short hike to First Beach to take in views of James Island, or A-ka-lat.
A FRIENDLY REMINDER TO VISITORS As a sovereign nation, the Quileute Tribe asks that you respect their culture and traditions. Please read the video and photography policies as outlined at bit.ly/quileute-policies. “As stewards of our culture, traditions and natural resources, we make this Policy to ensure that the cultural rights of all Quileute People — past, present and future — are protected,” the Quileute Oceanside Resort website explains.
First Beach, as seen from one of the luxury cabins.
NATURAL ATTRACTIONS Jaime, who oversees the resort along with six other tribal entities, said his favorite part of the resort is the environment that surrounds it. “The resort just happens to be a part of that,” Jaime said from his office at Oceanside. “It does a lot to emphasize the natural beauty.” To that end, the resort keeps its focus on the natural world. Cabins and other units, more than 70 in all, do not feature televisions, and wifi access is kept to a minimum, confi ned to a designated room at the southwest corner of the main office.
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Tree roots give way to manmade stairs as the Second Beach trail ascends into marine forest from the sandy shoreline. “We get a lot of people who come out here because we don’t have those amenities,” Jaime said. “[For guests], it’s a release from all the other ‘necessities’ — we don’t have to convince them. “Some tell us, ‘All I want is a place, a shelter where I can work.’ ” That often leads to a month-long rental of an A-frame unit where writers can focus, Jaime said. Another popular feature of the resort is the set of RV parks. “They’re very low maintenance, usually self-contained,” Jaime said. “We really rely on return customers, and if we do our jobs and do it well, they will return.”
ON THE TRAIL
It’s against this backdrop that I planned a couple of hikes for the day. Charged with the enviable “duty” of trekking around La Push, I found myself first seeking a bit of cover from the breeze and light rain with a hike to Second Beach. The trailhead is just off state Highway 110/La Push Road. It’s a short (0.7-mile) and promising jaunt through a marine forest, with the second half featuring a rather steep drop (with trail-built steps) before depositing hikers onto the sand.
Once there, massive sea stacks took my breath away before the marine wind did. There’s plenty for the beach hikers of all skill levels to enjoy, from piles of driftwood to tidepools teeming with sea life. I’m a climber. I always want to see what’s on top of that rock or over the next hill, but I wouldn’t advise too much clambering under wet conditions here. Nonetheless, Second Beach seemed second to none. I kept my visit there short — I had an appointment at the aforementioned Quileute Oceanside Resort & RV Park — so I trekked back on the trail and headed back to La Push proper for a quick view of the crashing waves at First Beach. There I got a good glimpse of James Island, which I’d been reading about. James Island, or A-ka-lat (“Top of the Rock”) was the location of a fortified village in 1788 when described by English fur trader John Meares. A Quileute tribal history (at quileutenation.org) notes that evidence of habitation in this area dates back 8,000 to 9,000 years. Over the years the island served as a natural lookout to defend the village against occasionally hostile neighbors, as well as a place to sight whales.
Second Beach offers spectacular views of the surging tide. FaLL 2019 | Living on the PeninsuLa
Driftwood lines the sandy Rialto Beach, seen here from just above Hole-in-the-Wall.
It was also the site of the International Gathering in 1997, when 23 tribes from Washington state and British Columbia paddled to celebrate the revival of ocean-going canoe traditions of Northwest Indian Coastal Tribes. “James Island is also known as a source of spiritual power for the Quileute people and a place where high-status individuals were placed in canoes in the trees after death,” the history reads. Standing before the island, it’s little wonder why the Quileute revere it so. I got a secondary look at James Island and the various sea stacks of the region on the second leg of my hike at Rialto Beach. To get there from La Push, backtrack a bit on Highway 110 before turning left (north) on Mora Road, crossing the Quillayute River. At the end of Mora Road is the trailhead. Unlike Second Beach — and this may be because the weather had cleared up by mid-afternoon — Rialto was teeming with visitors, some with dogs and kites, others just out for a stroll and even a couple of runners and yogis. I wanted to check out Hole-in-theWall, a natural opening in a land mass north of the trailhead. It had captured my imagination on my previous trip to La Push, but I’d forgotten how far away it was.
Making the two-mile trip (one way) proved cumbersome, particularly with having to scrabble over wet sand and small piles of rocks, sloshing through Ellen Creek and, with the tide coming in, more than once leaping up on massive pieces of driftwood to avoid getting drenched. After the better part of an hour, I made it within decent view of the landmark. Of course, with the tide encroaching, there was no way to actually hike through; I climbed the overland trail and found a great spot for a majestic view of the ocean and beaches north and south. Alas, the return trip found this hiker worse for the wear. Note to self: Check the tide tables before setting forth.
From “Twilight” fans, to outdoor enthusiasts, to others simply seeking some solitude, there are any number of reasons people ﬁ nd their way to the Quileute Oceanside Resort. For more about the Quileute Oceanside Resort & RV Park, see quileuteoceanside.com or call 800-487-1267.
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The tide surges through Rialto Beach’s Hole-in-the-Wall, viewed here looking south. Current tide tables for La Push and the Quillayute River, station ID 9442396, can be found at bit.ly/9442396tides.
NAVIGATING the future Elwha traditions help chart course forward Elwha Canoe Pullers on the Beautiful Sister. Photos courtesy of LEKT
By Keri Ellis, Lower Elwha Tribal Member
uring times of substantial change, the Lower Elwha Klallam Tribe (LEKT) looks into its past to answer questions about its future. Addressing present-day issues while maintaining ties to tradition is a delicate balancing act that the Lower Elwha people are not afraid to navigate.
HEALING THE COMMUNITY LEKT’s members and their families have suffered substance abuse and its devastating effects along with the rest of the world. While others search frantically — and sometimes listlessly — for answers, the Lower Elwha have been busy using the unique tools they already possess to connect with the addicted community and tribal members in more effective and lasting ways.
Lower Elwha are not just supportive of incorporating a cultural and spiritual component into the overall wellness of the tribe’s people; they insist on it. Tribal leaders are adamant in their community-based stance and undying determination to get the community healthy, physically and spiritually. Sometimes, the tides have been turned for those lost in addiction by handing them a drum and teaching them to sing. Others have been returned to their family
and community by being plunked in a canoe, handed a paddle and sent off on the water, not knowing they would learn to work in unison with their Canoe Family. They learn selflessness, the meaning of balance and to dig deeper when life (and water) gets rough and treacherous. Being handed that paddle, being relied on and believed in has been rewarding in new ways. More often than not, being teased mercilessly yet lovingly has turned many lives in a more positive direction.
FaLL 2019 | Living on the PeninsuLa
Gerald Foster Jr., skipper of the Beautiful Sister. It is the tribal way: Express love through shared experiences of unparalleled generosity, radical acceptance and genuine humor. No one has ever felt better than when they are belly-laughing at themselves with other people who love them fiercely. It’s not easy finding an answer to addiction that fits everyone’s needs or the general public’s idea of what being drug-free “should look like.” While
others are saying, “Times have changed. The old ways won’t work,” the Lower Elwha are saying, “Tell us the old ways! We want to know what works. What is the piece we are missing?” Having asked the elders first, followed by small dinner talks with the rest of its members, the tribe has started along the road to recovery with suggestions and insight taken from the community. Not feeling it necessary to strictly
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have reawakened their resilience, knowledge and strength. Substance abuse may be a formidable opponent, but LEKT is working furiously to thwart its advancement and loosen its grip on those it has gotten hold of. It might only be one finger at a time being pried loose, and it might take tremendous energy to get just one finger free, but Klallams are known for their stubbornness and enthusiasm for a good, long fight.
adhere to Western pathways to wellness, other options have been explored with varying success. Traditional spiritual practices, naturopathic and herbal medicine, nutrition, recovery support and wraparound care have all been explored by LEKT in their quest for a healthy community, ideally free from active addiction and the dysfunction it results in. While attempting to break the patterns of addiction, the Lower Elwha
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Restoring the Elwha The Elwha and Glines Canyon dams flooded about 715 acres of land around the Elwha River that had historically been covered with native plants. Now that the dams have been removed, 684 of those acres have been exposed and made available for replanting. Restoration projects focus on replanting the land behind the dams with native plants. In addition to blocking the passage of salmon upriver, the dams were blocking the downriver transport of trees, branches and root wads. In healthy rivers and streams, large woody debris accumulates naturally and provides habitat for fish. Now that the river has been allowed to resume its natural habits, debris such as this stump are helping restore native habitats.
Information adapted from the LEKT Department of Natural Resources website, elwha.org/departments/river-restoration
LEKT DEPARTMENT OF NATURAL RESOURCES MISSION STATEMENT
Assist the tribe to protect, enhance and restore land, air and water resources, and environmental health for generations to come. Promote the protection of cultural resources, unique tribal interests and treaty rights. Serve the tribal community and promote sustainable community development.
NURTURING THE ENVIRONMENT Working hard to monitor the recovery of the ecosystem, the LEKT Natural Resources department is committed to the science and history of the Elwha people and surrounding communities. This dynamic and passionate team has solutions on the horizon and isn’t doubtful of its abilities. “The Lower Elwha Tribe accomplishes more than any other group of their size on the Olympic Peninsula. We’ve just got a great team,” said Robert Elofson, Lower Elwha tribal member and harvest manager for LEKT Natural Resources. The first year of dramatic changes in the delta area was 2013, after the removal of the dams that previously contained the Elwha River. The return of the sand lands offers important foraging opportunities for birds and other species. Marine birds are witnessed in greater diversity and abundance than they have been in decades. According to United States Geological Survey (USGS) dive studies, juvenile
Dungeness crab have returned to the sub-tidal area in abundance. Herring balls have been appearing off the Elwha River, being fed on by seagulls, ducks and other birds, attracting other species to the area. Animals are lining the shores, showing the eco-benefits these marine nutrients bring to the Elwha food web. The cleanup and restoration of Port Angeles harbor is an important priority for the tribe, which works diligently to identify restoration projects. Recently on Ediz Hook, LEKT restored several thousand feet of shoreline. According to Matt Beirne, LEKT Natural Resources director, the most recent restoration work was completed about two years ago. Efforts focused on the eastern end of Ediz Hook, in the vicinity of the communications tower and just west of the city’s public boat launch. The Lower Elwha have been involved in harbor restoration plans since the Rayonier Mill closed, which initiated their first studies and efforts. On a broader level, the tribe has been responsible for 50 miles worth of stream restorations.
Kim Sager, wildlife biologist for LEKT, has been collaborating with the state and various tribes, including Jamestown, Port Gamble Sklallam, Skokomish and Makah, on Peninsulawide monitoring efforts, installing over 75 wildlife cameras for data collection purposes on various species, including cougars, deer and elk. On a larger scale, LEKT is focused on climate change impacts, having several staff working to identify potential impacts to the tribe and surrounding communities in the future, and also identifying potential projects to help mitigate those risks. Cameron Macias will be the first Klallam to earn a master’s degree in natural resources, completing her education at the University of Idaho. She has been busy collecting samples and studying cougar DNA. “She’s our resident rock star,” Beirne said. Macias is a great source of pride for the tribe and the department in which she works.
FaLL 2019 | Living on the PeninsuLa
Yenewes Smith-Avery, Elwha Canoe Family, at Swinomish canoe landing site.
Jeff and Renee Zmuda, Swinomish Tribal campground.
Tim Goldsbury Jr., an LEKT tribal member, fisherman and canoe puller.
18 Living on the PeninsuLa | FaLL 2019
The Tribal Canoe Journey has become an important part of reclaiming tradition and merging it with present-day progress. By taking advantage of the natural resources, the Lower Elwha have claimed and nurtured it as their own since time began. Blending the journey with modern conveniences, the tribe has mastered the art of traveling in large, diverse groups, providing everything their Canoe Family and support teams need. Just as historical trauma haunts their DNA, so does their ability to persevere, laugh and make eternal friends wherever they go. Two of the most critical components of the tribe — their waters and their people — come together in a near-perfect union of health and happiness for the time they are immersed in each other. Everything truly comes full circle, and an understanding is reached between all parties involved. For evidence of their perseverance and strength, recall the courage and dedication displayed by Lower Elwha during the battle to protect their ancestral sacred lands, the TsiWhitZen Village Site. There are the warriors who are still courageously trying to make it through each day and might be running into dead ends in a life guided by negative choices or addictions to various poisons. There are the warriors who battle from the Natural Resources Department who have put in decades of work, fighting for tribal rights to fish, protect their lands and waters and reinvigorate life in the beloved Elwha River. Together, their impact is real. One imagines, “We will heal the waters, and in doing so, the water will happily heal you. And upon your healing, you will heal the world.” By picking up a paddle or drum, Lower Elwha Klallam tribal members are leading by example, and loved ones who are struggling and/or in need of healing are paying attention. They are showing them the way while reuniting them with their spirituality, self-worth and sense of belonging.
People set up chairs as the Lower Elwha Klallam Tribal flag flies on the Elwha beach, where many Tribal canoes landed on their journey to Lummi Nation, who hosted Paddle to Lummi 2019.
PADDLE TO LUMMI “The journey honors the rich traditions of Coast Salish tribes of the Northwest, who travel the waters to meet and gather for trade, ceremony and celebration. Canoe Journey holds special signiﬁcance to Coast Salish Tribes as it truly honors and nourishes the unique relationships and connections with the land, water and one another.” paddletolummi.org
A HEALING PATH through history
Chief Chetzemoka’s legacy bonds community Story and photos by Diane Urbani de la Paz
Dick Brown’s bronze sculpture of Chief Chetzemoka stands near the parking lot at the Port Townsend Golf Course. FaLL 2019 | Living on the PeninsuLa
ALONG THE TRAIL
The 18 stops on the Chetzemoka Trail, aka the čičm hán trail, take cyclists, motorists and pedestrians to beaches, vista points, historic buildings and to Chetzemoka Park, Port Townsend’s 115-yearold expanse of woods, ﬁelds and waterfront. From the 6-acre park at the intersection of Blaine and Jackson streets, other highlights are nearby: e
• Point Hudson, a seasonal camp and clamming site accessible from Monroe and Water streets • The Fowler Building, aka the Leader building, at 226 Adams St., the 145-year-old sandstone ediﬁce where Chetzemoka’s body lay in state after his death in June 1888 • Union Wharf, 103 Hudson St., with its view of Indian Island
Emerging from the Chetzemoka Trail grand opening ceremony are, from left, Port Townsend Mayor Deborah Stinson, Jamie Valadez of the Lower Elwha Klallam Tribe, Kelly Sullivan of the Port Gamble S’Klallam Tribe, Jake Beattie of the Northwest Maritime Center and Ron Allen, chairman of the Jamestown S’Klallam Tribe. Loni Grinnell Greninger, also of the Jamestown Tribe, stands at the podium. The Native Connections Action Group, part of the Quimper Unitarian Universalist Fellowship in Port Townsend, came up with the idea for an interpretive trail highlighting the history of — and struggle for — coexistence. Celeste Kardonsky Dybeck, a S’Klallam tribal elder who grew up in Sequim, was the project leader. Embarking on this effort in 2017, she and her fellow Native Connections advocates couldn’t know how the city’s residents, businesses and government agencies would respond. The hundreds gathered at Memorial Field on grand opening day epitomized the reaction. Descendants of Chief Chetzemoka himself and of the settlers who arrived here in the 18th and 19th centuries attended together. So did representatives of Jefferson County, Clallam County, the city of Port Townsend, several neighborhood associations and the Northwest Maritime Center. The people ready to welcome the crowd included Loni Grinnell Greninger of the Jamestown S’Klallam Tribe, Port Townsend Mayor Deborah Stinson and internationally known S’Klallam storyteller Elaine Grinnell.
20 Living on the PeninsuLa | FaLL 2019
Lower Elwha Klallam elder and pioneering Klallam language educator Jamie Valadez also stood at the podium beside Kelly Sullivan of the Port Gamble S’Klallam Tribe, with Ron Allen, the Jamestown S’Klallam chairman and CEO, who is a voice for Native American sovereignty across the country. Dybeck, a petite woman and a clearvoiced presence, came to the microphone to let everybody know a few things. “I’m the I.I.C.,” she quipped, “the ‘Indian in Charge.’ ” Then she hailed the earliest adopters of the Chetzemoka Trail, from Allen, who offered his tribe’s funds and staff time for the giant task of planning and construction, to the Friends of Fort Worden, who paid for one of the trail’s first panels. From these local residents to companies and nonprofit groups, supporters contributed some $68,000 to build the Chetzemoka Trail. Each panel had a sponsor who donated $1,500. Commemorative T-shirts and the 32-page “The čičm hán trail” booklets, sold at the Northwest Maritime Center and other shops in downtown Port Townsend, continue to bring in revenue. e
ne bright day this summer, a throng filled the northwestfacing bleachers of Port Townsend’s Memorial Athletic Field. Then more flowed in: moms and dads, babies asleep in backpacks, toddlers in tow and elders in cedar-bark hats. All found places to sit on the grass in front of the podium. This was the long-anticipated grand opening of the Chetzemoka Trail, a network of paths filled with stories about this place and its people. Named for Chief Chetzemoka — the 19th-century visionary whose Klallam name is spelled “čičm hán” — the trail has 18 stops. These include a totem pole towering over the foot of Water Street, four wheelchair-accessible sites downtown and panels describing events that took place at North Beach, Kah Tai Lagoon, Point Hudson and Fort Worden. More than 300 wayfinding markers are embedded in streets and sidewalks leading to these sites. At 1 p.m. June 29, the opening ceremony began with Klallam singers and drummers walking across the field — itself near the site of a S’Klallam village. They joined an ensemble of people who made the project happen.
• Port Townsend Ferry Overlook, on Washington Street near Harrison Street high above Admiralty Inlet, which is part of the S’Klallam Tribe’s “Usual and Accustomed” ﬁshing waters • Port Townsend Post Ofﬁce at Harrison and Washington streets, where the Romanesque columns bear sculptures of Chetzemoka’s family members • qatáy Lagoon, accessible from Haines Place, from 12th Street and Landes Street, where the wetlands provided a rich resource for the S’Klallam, who hunted waterfowl and gathered grass for weaving • Swan School, 2345 Kuhn St., where the Klallam language is highlighted • North Beach County Park, 5787 Kuhn St., a key camp location for S’Klallam and other Salish Sea tribes • Point Wilson, the site of a shellﬁshing beach and tribal camp at the far edge of Fort Worden State Park, whose entrance is at 200 Battery Way
Gabriel Chrisman wheeled his Victorian-style penny-farthing bicycle up to the sign marking the entrance to Port Townsend’s Chetzemoka Park. His wife, Sarah Chrisman, writes historical fiction set in a town called Chetzemoka. Learn more at ThisVictorianLife.com. $1,500 donation. They visited Chief Chetzemoka’s grave at Laurel Grove Cemetery, then a potential spot for a trail panel. Instead, Erickson told her he would be a matching funder, contributing $12,500. Donations from the community met his challenge by year’s end. Erickson also let Dybeck know that the tribes of Western Washington are among his best customers, and he wants to support them in return. On grand opening day, Allen and Valadez joined Dybeck in noting the Chetzemoka Trail’s reasons for being. “Every site is a special site,” Allen said. “We were many villages,” from the Hoko to the Hamma Hamma River. “But this village was the village of our chief,” a man who believed in peaceful interdependence among settlers and Native American tribes. We are all travelers, said Allen; the S’Klallams paddled canoes around and across the Olympic Peninsula and Puget Sound, and “maritime was our way of life.” “This is an old trail,” added Valadez, “that has always existed with our ancestors,” back when this place was known as qatáy.
Our ancestors “are always with us,” she said in a soft voice. Creation of today’s route has the power to bring healing, she believes, as it brings our attention to “this very sacred land.”
A DIFFICULT PAST
The establishment of Port Townsend is merely a chapter in a long, troubled history. One of the low points came in May 1871, when the city enacted an ordinance banning construction of any housing for Native Americans between the site of the Catholic Church — on Madison Street at the time — and the area 150 feet west of Tyler Street. During the grand opening, Stinson read the ordinance aloud and announced its official repeal. She also noted how in the same year of the ban, the federal government ordered the burning of the village of qatáy, to prevent the tribe from returning to its land near what is now Kah Tai Lagoon. Valadez, looking out at her audience, invited the people to a new way of living together. “The next chapter is going to be written by us together, today,” she said.
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Those small wayfinding markers, seen at intersections across the city, bear the symbol of a salmon egg, Dybeck added. Adult salmon, keystone species of the Pacific Northwest and provider of sustenance to generations of Native American people, also are depicted atop every trail panel. Jamestown S’Klallam artist Bud Turner created all of the images. When Greninger presented a plaque of appreciation to Dybeck, the audience members stood up to cheer. With her daughter Alexis and granddaughter Abigail watching, she accepted the plaque and began giving interviews to reporters. “I was stunned,” Dybeck said later. She’d expected some people to show up for the opening. So shocked at the crowd in attendance, she had a few moments when she couldn’t remember anybody’s name. But Dybeck, a retired emergency room and chemotherapy nurse, recovered. “I was so thrilled my kids were there,” she said, adding that her son-in-law Justin Erickson had astonished her with a decision in May 2018. Just before the family got together for Mother’s Day, Dybeck thought about asking Erickson, CEO of Harbor Wholesale in Olympia, for a
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“We’re speaking the language” — Valadez has taught many classrooms full of Port Angeles teenagers to speak Klallam — “and we’re going to say prayers for healing, together.” Immediately after the Memorial Field event, Allen, Stinson, Valadez, Sullivan and Northwest Maritime Center executive director Jake Beattie carried a long cedar bough to the corner of Water and Monroe streets. With spectators from the previous ceremony watching, they stood below the freshly erected totem pole there. Dale Faulstich, the Sequim-based master carver and builder of many totem poles in the area, worked with Andy Pitts, Tyler Faulstich and tribal citizen Timothy O’Connell to shape this symbol from a Western red cedar tree. Beattie, addressing the crowd gathered at the pole, admitted that this was an emotional day for him. “I’ve been a Port Townsend resident for the better part of a decade,” he said. “Today I found myself also a resident of qatáy.” “Things haven’t gone well,” he said; a legacy of violence against Native American people was “set in motion by people who look a lot like me.” The 26-foot pole, visible from several blocks away, signifies hope for a better future, Beattie said. It’s time we face the hard truths and move forward, and remember all who are “encompassed by ‘we.’ ” “We choose to exist in this special place,” he said, “and we choose to exist here together.”
Formed with meaning This welcome pole, greeting visitors from in front of the Maritime Center at 431 Water Street in Port Townsend, illustrates three important symbols of the Klallam people. Its highest section depicts the Supernatural Carpenter, the one tribal people believe gave us the ability to build canoes and houses and to sing, dance and make art. In the middle section is the Spirit of the Cedar, the tribes’ tree of life. It has provided Native American people with shelter, warm clothing, tools and transport across the water. At the base of the pole is Chetzemoka, arms in a gesture of welcome. He is standing on Sentinel Rock, the place where in 1857 he went to signal the end to a threat of war between Native Americans and settlers.
22 Living on the PeninsuLa | FaLL 2019
Beattie’s words, the building of the Chetzemoka Trail, the use of Klallam words on interpretive panels and street signs from Port Townsend to Port Angeles: All coincide with a movement to acknowledge the fact that we live on the ancestral lands of Native American people. Peninsula College makes this acknowledgement at its Studium Generale lecture series; the Belfry Theatre in Victoria, B.C., does as well. Jefferson County’s newly adopted comprehensive plan includes a kind of acknowledgement in its vision statement: “The stories and legends of the native tribes who inhabited this area speak eloquently of the spirit of this land,” it reads. “The native people … long before the arrival of the first explorers and settlers, were integrally linked to the land, its bounty and its beauty.” This vision statement “is fundamental to everything we do,” Jefferson County
District 2 Commissioner David Sullivan wrote in an email to Living on the Peninsula. As for regular Jefferson County Board of Commissioners meetings, an acknowledgement of ancestral lands hasn’t been a standard practice, noted District 1 Commissioner Kate Dean. “But any time I am in a formal meeting with tribes or on tribal lands — reservation or not, such as at Jamestown [S’Klallam Tribe] meeting rooms — I make a point of acknowledging and thanking the tribes for sharing their land and waters,” she added. In Port Townsend itself, where Dean lives and works, this is complicated. “So many tribes were present here in some capacity, and I fear leaving out particular groups inadvertently. I believe 11 tribes have ‘Usual and Accustomed’ rights total in Jefferson County, with differing versions of primacy. “It’s important, and tricky,” Dean said, “and I care deeply about the issue.” At site after site along the Chetzemoka Trail, panels recount the occasions when the S’Klallam chief sought to be a peacemaker. Jo Blair, a member of the Native Connections Action Group, is moved most of all by the Point Hudson sign describing the “Big Heart” incident of 163 years ago. Citing a story by Jamestown S’Klallam author Mary Ann Lambert, the text recalls how soldiers, manning the garrison at Port Townsend, were known to frequent the local saloons. One evening, two inebriated men stole a canoe from the S’Klallam village — and were drowned when a squall tore across the bay. White townspeople assumed that the native people had killed the soldiers. When a young tribal member, Tommy Shapkin, was seen wearing one soldier’s cap and jacket, he was accused of murder and sentenced to hang. When Shapkin was brought to the platform for execution, another S’Klallam man went off to find Chetzemoka. Wordless, the chief ascended the steps to where the youth stood. He pulled out his knife, reached up, cut the noose and threw it on the ground. Taking the blindfold from Shapkin’s eyes, Chetzemoka said to him, “You are free.” We are a proud people, Chetzemoka told the assembled crowd. Calling the whites “Bostons,” he said his tribe would not be the ones to spill Boston blood on their beloved land. “Do you wish to be the first to spill Klallam blood upon this soil which once belonged to us?,” he asked. “Have you no pride?
The dramatic “Big Heart” story awaits visitors to the Hudson Beach stop on the Chetzemoka Trail.
Maps of the Chetzemoka Trail are available at many locations in Port Townsend, including the Northwest Maritime Center, the entrance to Chetzemoka Park, 900 Jackson St., and the Port Townsend Visitor Information Center, 2409 Jefferson St. The Jamestown S’Klallam Tribe, publisher of the maps, can be reached at 360-683-1109 and JamestownTribe.org.
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On Sept. 17, the Jamestown S’Klallam Tribal Library will present a free, public program with Tribal Historic Preservation Ofﬁcer David Brownell. In his 6 p.m. talk, he’ll lay out the timeline of pre- and postcontact Native American presence in and around Port Townsend using maps, photographs, primary sources and oral traditions. The venue is Red Cedar Hall, the building facing Sequim Bay at 1033 Old Blyn Highway. More details can be found by calling 360-681-4632 or emailing firstname.lastname@example.org. North Texas linguist Timothy Montler. A scholar of Native American languages, he worked with the six Klallam speakers left alive, eventually transcribing their pronunciations into a 40-letter alphabet. Working with elders from the Lower Elwha, Jamestown S’Klallam and Port Gamble S’Klallam, Montler published the 9,000-entry Klallam dictionary in 2012. Back at the June 29 grand opening,
Marlin Holden, a Jamestown S’Klallam elder and a direct descendant of Chetzemoka, spoke about the meaning of the namesake trail. As the S’Klallam people seek to practice the philosophy of their early chief, “We just pray,” he said, “that those who walk the trail will go back in history, and they will know why the tribe has been successful.”
FaLL 2019 | Living on the PeninsuLa
The Chetzemoka Trail offers three choices of length: 3 miles, 6 miles and 12 miles for walking, bicycling or driving. Lys Burden, a well-traveled cyclist, envisioned the bike-friendliness of it. Those hundreds of wayfinding markers are largely her doing. More of them, attached to posts, will have been installed by the end of August. “The philosophy of the trail,” Burden said, “was trying to get people back into nature, back to what’s really here,” from the windswept beaches and bluffs overlooking the water to the qatáy valley’s bird life. If she had to name a favorite site, Burden would choose Swan School, where the trail panel highlights the Klallam language. It had nearly disappeared by the 1990s, when the Lower Elwha Klallam Tribe of Port Angeles got in touch with University of
“The čičm hán trail,” a 32-page book, offers a map, text from the trail panels, historical and contemporary photographs and a reading list. Copies are available for $20, with proceeds beneﬁting trail maintenance, at the Northwest Maritime Center, 431 Water St.
“Bostons, we have been friends. Let us remain friends. If this unwise act which you were about to commit is what you call civilization, then give us back our way of life. Oh, White People, our brothers under the skin, do not let this happen again.” “That story, to me, exemplifies the Jamestown S’Klallam Tribe,” Blair said.
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WEAVING TRADITION into today Hoh Tribe embraces its heritage Phillip Sifuentes teaches one of the school children to separate cedar bark. Story and photos by Christi Baron
asket weaving, historically a mainstay of Hoh daily life, has evolved into a valued tradition that represents an important part of the tribe’s living culture. Although fishing has become the Hoh Tribe’s primary livelihood, according to its official website, some residents continue to practice traditional skills like weaving. As a tribe that has always depended on the river, ocean and bounties of the forest, when Native American baskets starting gaining popularity among Euro-American settlers in the 1800s basket weaving had long been an essential element of Hoh life. No longer viewed as just a souvenir, basketry is considered fine art, and for skilled weavers, basketry continues to provide a significant income. In an effort to connect the younger generation with this aspect of its heritage, this last June, the Hoh Tribe organized a cedar gathering field trip for local children from the Quillayute Valley school system and other schools from the West End.
Children ranging in age from elementary to high school got a few hours away from the classroom to receive a hands-on lesson in one aspect of the Hoh’s ancient practice of basket weaving ‚ collecting the materials. The group was led by Phillip Sifuentes, organizer of the outing. He explained that the tribe is making a real effort to preserve and share their stories and activities with the next generation of Hoh. The Hoh Tribe uses natural materials for making baskets — cedar bark, spruce roots and swamp grass — and this field trip focused on the process used to collect cedar bark.
COLLECTING CEDAR BARK
On a sunny Monday morning, everyone loaded up into several vans and headed to a pre-selected area set up for them by the Washington State Department of Natural Resources (DNR). The location was near Nolan Creek, south of Forks and not far from the Hoh Village. On the way to the forest, Sifuentes mentioned that the tribe works annually with the DNR to gather these precious cultural materials. The tribe has a
“The Hoh River Indians are considered a band of the Quileutes but are recognized as a separate tribe,” the ofﬁcial Hoh website explains. “The Hoh Indian Reservation was established by an Executive Order in 1893. The Hoh Reservation consists of 443 acres located 28 miles south of Forks and 80 miles north of Aberdeen. The Hoh Reservation has approximately 1 mile of beach front running east from the mouth of the Hoh River and south to Ruby Beach.” For more information about the tribe, visit hohtribe-nsn.org window of several weeks each spring when the tree sap is right for making the collection process easier. To make sure the trees don’t die from the bark removal, no more than one-third of the bark is taken from the selected trees, Sifuentes said. Once at the area selected by the DNR, everyone made their way off the road to start collecting bark. Several adults used sharp knives or axes to make slices in the bark near the base of the tree. Then each student had the opportunity to peel strips of bark. When some of the younger children could step back no farther, an adult was ready to pull the last bit of bark away from the tree.
Some of the students encountered tough peeling when the strip they were removing included limbs, knots and other imperfections. When this happened, children struggled to get the bark over the protrusions — twisting, turning and pulling on the strip to work it loose. As with the taller portions of the trees, the youngest children had an adult present to ensure they did not slip and fall during their vigorous bark removal efforts. The students made multiple trips out of the forest, carrying the strips of varying lengths out to the road as each was successfully removed from the trees. The children deposited the bark in a line, ready for the next step.
FaLL 2019 | Living on the PeninsuLa
A younger student pulls on strip of cedar bark with the assistance of Sifuentes. Once enough bark was collected, many Hoh residents arrived on the scene, and everyone began the difficult task of separating the outer bark from the inner layer, which is the part used in the basket-making process. The experienced tribal members showed the children how bending and rolling the bark makes it easier to separate, but as no tools are used in this part of the process, the children found the work fatiguing for their inexperienced fingers. Everyone peeled, visited and told jokes as fingernails dug into the tough integument (outer protective layer of the bark). The prepared cedar from this day was to be gifted to Hoh Elders at an upcoming ceremony — a precious gift that expresses the time and difficulty that went into its procurement. Sifuentes related to the children the next steps of the refinement process, which the children would not be able to participate in.
A student pulls on stirp of cedar bark in an attempt to separate the final length from the tree. Fellow student looks on.
After collecting the bark from the woods, it is usually dried for a couple of days, then soaked for at least three hours before it is cut and split into narrow strands for weaving purposes. If the materials are prepared and stored properly, they can be kept for a number of years. Sometimes, dyes are used to add color to the weaving materials. When ready to weave, the material is kept wet, which makes it more pliable. Hoh baskets vary in design and complexity. Historically, simple, utilitarian baskets served everyday needs of the people, while fancier baskets were mostly used for trade or gift-giving. These were elaborately decorated, often with vibrant coloring and intricate details. Once the exclusive domain of women, both men and women practice basketry in contemporary Native American cultures, although it remains a predominantly female art.
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WEAVING BASKETS As part of the continuing effort to keep traditional basket-weaving techniques alive, artisans like Philip Ward, a member of the Quileute Tribe, sometimes teach basket weaving classes. In his most recent class at Rainfest (an annual arts festival held in Forks), attendees had the opportunity to actually perform the next step for cedar bark — weaving a basket. During Ward’s classes, he provides general background information on the art of basket weaving and its relevance to Northwestern Native American culture. He was very informative. There are several techniques for weaving, but all weaving techniques use wefts and warps. The wefts are the horizontal pieces and the warps are the vertical pieces. Weaving is an over-andunder method of combining the wefts and warps to each other. With this basic underlying concept, three main weaving techniques are used: coiling, plaiting and twining. Coiling is a technique involving sewing. Plaiting, also known as checker weave, is a straightforward technique in which the weft crosses over and under one
warp at a time. This is one of the most familiar types of basketry. Twining is a technique in which two wefts cross over each other between warps. There are numerous variations of twining, including variances in the number of wefts, the number of warps crossed by the wefts and the angle of the warps. Each of these variations, which are often used as design elements, provide the weaver with texture options that change the surface appearance of the basket. The students’ expedition into the forest was a wonderful opportunity to share an experience of the ancestors. Through efforts such as this one, the Hoh Tribe is keeping alive its beautiful traditions and important cultural values.
Special sections editor Shawna Dixson contributed to this report.
Professional woven basketry, purchased from an unknown Hoh artist. Beginning of a cedar bark basket by an attendee of Ward’s basket weaving class at Rainfest. Left: Warps have been woven together to form the bottom of the basket. Right: Continuing the plaiting technique with finer weft strands, the sides of the basket begin to form.
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LEADERS of distinction
Cultural values guide Jamestown S’Klallam Tribal Council By Betty Oppenheimer
ow did a rural tribe make the shift from a small group of S’Klallam families living in Sequim to becoming nationally recognized for its progressive agenda and achieving nearly total economic independence within the past 38 years? Jamestown S’Klallam’s success comes from stable, agile leadership pursuing a singular vision. Openness to creative solutions, an attitude of cooperation and the ability to learn from its history are all part of the tribe’s success. “It came from the ancestors,” said Liz Mueller, Jamestown S’Klallam Tribal Council vice chair. “Our history has made the Jamestown people strong. Whoever took a leadership role passed down to us to be independent and work hard for what you get.” This philosophy of self-reliance has driven tribal leaders to learn and understand the circumstances in front of them, to have a vision of where they want to go and plan a course of action. In 1874, after the tribe relinquished its lands in compliance with the 1855
Treaty of Point No Point (hereafter referred to as “the Treaty”), the tribe pooled its money to purchase 210 acres in the Jamestown area to stay in their historic homeland. This was an unusual but clever strategy that demonstrated the efficacy of tribal leadership principles and set a strong precedent for cultivating creative solutions that upheld the tribe’s core values. Although the federal government had designated more than 400,000 acres on the Olympic and Kitsap peninsulas as the S’Klallam’s “Usual and Accustomed grounds and stations” for fishing, hunting and gathering, they were being pushed from their villages by the early settlers and realized that owning land, in the European sense of ownership, was the only way for them to insure a stable place to live. For the first 100 years after they signed the Treaty, tribal leaders worked with the Bureau of Indian Affairs when it was appropriate, but prided themselves on self-sufficiency and on not becoming dependent on the federal government. The mid-20th century was a period of intense learning for the tribe.
Members of the Tribe’s Higher Education Committee with the 2018 high school and college graduates and family members standing in for grads who could not be present at the Tribal Picnic where they are honored. Photos courtesy of Jamestown S’Klallam Tribe
Starting in the 1950s, when non-reservation tribes were being terminated, through the 1960s, when treaty fishing rights were in danger of disappearing, the Jamestown leadership realized that only by joining the ranks of “officially recognized” tribes could they retain their treaty rights. As tribal leaders during that period navigated the requirements of the federal government, they focused on recognition as a means to survive as a community and a culture. Jamestown S’Klallam gained federal recognition as an official tribe in 1981. This opened avenues to self-sufficiency that had been nearly closed to the tribe, making it possible for the Jamestown people to envision a new future that included all of the rights retained in the Treaty — natural resources, health, education and more.
GOVERNANCE AND FINANCE Consistent, strong leadership has always been at the core of the tribe’s success. Tribal Council Chair W. Ron Allen has served on the Tribal Council since 1977, as chair since 1981 and as CEO since 1982. His leadership has
brought stability, consistency of vision and a “fierce but fair” approach to the national political arena. “No one knows how to build relationships like Ron,” said Cindy Lowe, deputy director of health services for the tribe and a tribal descendant. “Ron negotiates, and staff follows up [with] the details. We know how to get to ‘yes’ as the answer, but we don’t do it with a hammer. We solve problems.” The Tribal Council makes policy based on the tribe’s vision and mission. With this clear direction, staff, headed by an executive committee comprised of department directors, has a great deal of leeway to carry out that policy; however, ongoing communication is essential. The council does not get involved in employee issues, nor does it manage tribal businesses. This prevents misuse of power, according to Mueller. “Tribal leaders not only delegate to staff, they offer an invitation to and expectation of leadership,” said Leanne Jenkins, planning director. “That approach, coupled with tribal code, [tribal] plans and annual work plans, empowers us to act on behalf of the tribal community.”
FaLL 2019 | Living on the PeninsuLa
Aerial view of 7 Cedars Hotel under construction. The hotel connects to 7 Cedars Casino. Shortly after this shot was taken, the second story was completed. The hotel is slated to open May 2020.
Tamanowas Rock Sanctuary Staff feel like they are part of a team, but also enjoy a great deal of autonomy. While many of Jamestown’s staff members are non-native, the tribe’s education programs, which began with elementary school children in the early 1990s, are paying off. The tribe has several local programs for elementary, middle and high school students that aim to help kids finish high school and continue to college. They teach kids about tribal culture, language, history, governance and the importance of education. In addition, the tribe’s “Higher Education” program provides funding for tribal citizens to attend college. Since 2001, Jamestown students have graduated with four certificates, 28 associate, 50 bachelor’s, nine master’s and three doctoral degrees. The tribe has invested more than $5 million of its own revenue to make that possible.
The Tribal Library in Blyn further highlights the tribe’s dedication to education and lifelong learning. Being selected as one of just 10 recipients of the 2019 National Medal for Museum and Library Services confirmed these efforts. This award is the highest honor given to museums and libraries across the nation, recognizing the Jamestown S’Klallam Tribal Library for providing unique programming and services that make a difference in the lives of individuals, families and communities. Many tribal citizens and descendants have returned to the tribe with skills and credentials to share, and the staff has become increasingly native while the tribe continues to employ only the most qualified candidates. Other tribal graduates enjoy careers off the Olympic Peninsula, living productive, selfsufficient lives.
SELF-RELIANCE Allen has held the vision of a selfsufficient tribe since he joined the council, and he was the force behind convincing the Department of the Interior that a tiny tribe like Jamestown could and should be part of the 1988 Self-Governance Demonstration Project. His powers of persuasion resulted in the tribe being one of the first 10 tribes allowed to self-govern, which meant that the tribe was given the power to spend federal money as they saw fit for their citizens, rather than only as the Bureau of Indian Affairs directed. The freedom to self-govern meant that the tribe had to carefully manage its finances and be innovative in its use of funding. Since recognition in 1981, the tribe has gone from a revenue base of zero
to an annual revenue of more than $42 million in 2018, 79 percent of which is generated by tribally run businesses. “Focusing on self-reliance is the key,” said chief financial officer Diane Gange, adding that when they do what they know well, their businesses have thrived. “We’ve always worked to hold the federal government to their trust and treaty obligations, but at the same time, not to expect anything.” By engaging in economic development in a variety of sectors, the tribe has become far less dependent on federal and grant funding than ever before. For a tribe with fewer than 600 enrolled members, this tribally generated revenue has provided money not only for reinvestment into programs that benefit the tribal community, but also for projects that benefit the entire North Olympic Peninsula community.
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Rendering of the entrance to the soon-to-be-expanded Dungeness River Audubon Center (DRAC) Railroad Bridge Park, which is owned by the tribe and open to the public. The DRAC is operated in partnership with the Dungeness River Audubon Center 501(c)(3) nonprofit group and the Olympic Peninsula Audubon Society.
tribe’s projects and programs, visit jamestowntribe.org/ program-staff.
CULTURAL PRESERVATION The tribe recognizes the need to balance economic development and cultural preservation. Jamestown is very active in protecting its religious and cultural values through the restoration of language and cultural practices (including drumming, singing, storytelling, weaving and carving). The tribe also purchased a 60-acre parcel that protects a historic spiritual site in Jefferson County, called the Tamanowas Rock Sanctuary. “We are citizens and partners in this community, making good things happen in our community,” said Lowe. “We show people by our actions that we care. We involve people in our planning processes to build mutual trust. What we do for the community also benefits us.” This community-focused mentality is reflected by the Jamestown Family Health Clinic, which has operated in Sequim since 2002, and Jamestown Family Dental Clinic in Blyn, which hired the first pediatric dentist on the North Olympic Peninsula. “Over the years I have watched the tribe fight to keep our natural resources
accessible to our people,” said tribal citizen Loni Greninger, deputy director of social and community services. “As time continued, we partnered with our non-native allies who agreed to fight alongside us. We all realized that having the beautiful bounty around us was important to all populations, both native and non-native. We found that we were stronger when we worked together.” No one at Jamestown assumes that it can’t be done. “Let’s find a way” is the Jamestown attitude. To that end, the tribe purchased land in the Dungeness Watershed for conservation, allowing the natural ebb and flow of floodplain and riparian corridors needed for salmon habitat restoration. The tribe also promotes environmental stewardship and educates the public through its Dungeness River Audubon Center.
Partnerships with the larger community that are key to the tribe include the Clallam County Sheriff’s Office, Clallam County Fire District No. 3, Olympic Medical Center, Olympic and Jefferson Land Trusts, Clallam Transit and the Sequim School District, as well as various regional, state and federal environmentally focused agencies. “We don’t back away from difficulty. Nothing we do is based on fear; it’s all fact. We do our due diligence, and when we see an opportunity, even if it is daunting, we still go after it,” said Kurt
Grinnell, tribal council member and aquaculture manager. “We’ve always been that way. Even Chetzemoka [Grinnell’s ancestor who signed the 1855 Treaty of Point No Point] knew what he was doing. We have one of the largest ‘Usual and Accustomed Areas’ of any tribe in the state.” In an effort to share the rich history and culture of the S’Klallam people, the tribe has donated totem poles to Sequim and Port Townsend. It also recently opened the “čičm hán” (Cheechma-han) Interpretive Trail in Port Townsend. (Read more about the trail on page 19.) Chairman Allen’s vision was to pursue a diversified economic base that would provide sufficient resources to address the tribal community’s needs; a base that would enable the tribal operations to be independent of federal resources. He believed the federal government would always be obligated to all tribes based on their trust obligation, but did not want the tribe to be negatively impacted by federal shutdowns or fiscal negligence. Through its persistence, coupled with its creative, inclusive approach, the tribe has achieved amazing successes, all designed to enable its vision of independence and self-reliance to continue in perpetuity. e
For more details on the
Betty Oppenheimer is the communications specialist for the Jamestown S’Klallam Tribe and a former reporter for The Sequim Gazette.
Over the years, the tribe has purchased property in the Dungeness Watershed for conservation, allowing the natural ebb and flow of floodplain and riparian corridors needed for salmon habitat restoration. Yellow blocks indicate areas the tribe has already purchased.
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JOURNEY TO THE edge of the Peninsula Makah Days outing yields history, tradition and fish Story and photos by Laura Foster
ne of the many wonderful things about living out here on the North Olympic Peninsula is the multitude of festivals to attend throughout the year. My husband I say all the time that no one should ever be bored out here. All you need is a little imagination, a sense of wonder, a field guide and some local news. Our Peninsula is gigantic, and if you have transportation, the opportunities to learn and explore are boundless. Even though our short-lived summer is ending and our autumnal season is kicking into gear, we’re still able to enjoy the outdoors — but maybe with just a few more layers. As the summer “heat” fades, our temperate coast remains a breathtaking source of recreation. On the West End lie Sekiu, Clallam Bay and Neah Bay, home of the Makah Days celebration, held Aug. 23-25 this year. Visiting this most northwesternmost corner of the contiguous U.S. is a bit of a trek from practically anywhere else on the Peninsula, however, which is why my husband and I left early on Saturday. We planned for our daytrip to make it to Sekiu in time for lunch, then continue to Neah Bay for the festivities, potentially stopping in Clallam Bay on the way back.
There are two ways to get out to the tip of the North Olympic Peninsula. Heading west on U.S. Highway 101 from Port Angeles, you can take either state Highway 112 or continue on 101. The 112
route is full of hills and winding, bumpy roads — not the best route for anyone who is prone to car sickness — but the views are spectacular if you can stomach the trip. Although the trips are fairly equal in distance, 101’s more streamlined route is much more expedient and smooth. Mornings on the Strait are often foggy, even in the summer, but the sun tends to come out in the afternoon. If you only take 112 once, you’re more likely to have visibility on the way back. We opted to take the 101 route, past Lake Crescent and through territory we are more familiar with. Once in Sappho, take a right at state Route 113, also known as the Korean War Veterans’ Blue Star Memorial Highway. The memorial highway begins in Sappho, goes to its junction with 112, then continues on to its terminus at the Makah Reservation in Neah Bay. Passing a sparkling Beaver Lake on the right, the crystal-clear day was warm enough to have the windows down, letting the sunshine in as we sped past swaths of forest and areas peppered with farms.
Cruising into Clallam Bay right as our stomachs started to grumble, we decided we would skip the small town for now and go right to Sekiu for lunch. We popped in at the Breakwater Restaurant (rated by Google Business as a “$$” price point), positioned just off the highway with a gorgeous view of the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Serving traditional American fare, the restaurant recently had some ownership changes, and my husband and I arrived on the first day with the newer staff.
It was a solid fishing day for boaters in Sekiu. Fishermen gut their catches and toss them into the water for some lucky seagulls to enjoy. The layout of the restaurant is that of an older diner, decorated with years and years of old road signs, fishing gear and random Sekiu accoutrement. A bookshelf houses binoculars for anyone wishing a closer view of the deep blue water just outside. On occasion, whales pass through this part of the Strait, but instead we observed fishermen reeling in catches way out at sea. This place is definitely a family affair, with a young niece helping seat customers while cousins worked in the kitchen and a girlfriend diligently served as the only waitress. We had stopped here a few years ago for my birthday, and I remember
having the best “fishwich” in my life, so I ordered it again while my husband got a bacon cheeseburger. Despite the rush of an “opening day,” service was great and the food was delicious. With full bellies, we swung down to Sekiu proper, past Rosie the wooden fish, to see the boats coming in with the day’s catch of salmon. Pinks and silvers were being reported as we wandered near the docks, watching folks gut their catches and toss leftovers into the water for the seagulls. We briefly discussed getting a milkshake or malt at By the Bay Cafe, as they are delicious, but decided to wait and see what Neah Bay had to offer.
FaLL 2019 | Living on the PeninsuLa
Makah youth perform a traditional Sea Serpent Dance on the Front Beach Platform in Neah Bay during Makah Days.
A family hauls a traditional long canoe down to the water’s edge of Front Beach for an upcoming canoe race as one of the many Makah Days activities.
Seasoned salmon filets are fastened to wooden stakes and placed around a fire for a traditional salmon bake, another feature at Makah Days.
Myriad wares were sold at the Makah Days street fair, including cleansing sage bundles and furs.
34 Living on the PeninsuLa | FaLL 2019
From Sekiu, we set off along the coast to Neah Bay for the 95th annual Makah Days. The origin of Makah Days comes from a combination of two historical events: the Wanamaker flag raising and the Indian Citizenship Act. Because of these two historic and pivotal events, the Makah annually celebrate their right to live their culture, sing their songs and freely express themselves using traditional dances on the weekend closest to Aug. 26. Pulling into Neah Bay, you first pass the Makah Cultural & Research Center Museum on the left, which is a wonderful stop for people to learn more about the Makah Tribe, makahmuseum.com. The Makah Museum houses artifacts from the Ozette Archeological Site, a Makah village partially buried by a mudslide approximately 300-500 years ago and discovered in 1970, according to the museum website. You’ll get a glimpse into pre-contact Makah life during your visit, with exhibits that feature whaling and fishing gear, basketry, replicas of a full-size longhouse and several different canoes. Our first stop, though, was Washburn’s General Store for a Makah Recreation Pass ($10). This pass is required for anyone wanting to enjoy the trails, beaches and other attractions in Neah Bay. With the pass, you receive a map that shows where one can explore on the reservation. With our pass displayed on the rearview mirror, we made our way to the Front Beach area, where event coordinators had the main drag blocked off for the Makah Days street fair. As we searched for parking, we saw tribal members gearing up for the softball tournament at the Neah Bay Schools Field. Once parked, we sauntered through the boisterous fair, stopping to look at handcrafted goods, ponder meal choices and learn more about the relationship between the tribe and the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. We couldn’t help but stop at one tent boasting “Free Fish!” Thyme N Tide’s mission that day was to encourage people to eat more lesserknown, low-impact fish like lingcod and “idiot fish” to support sustainability. We were given a tasty taco with jalapeno, pickled radish and a cilantro sauce, and were asked to try to identify the type of fish used in it. The husband guessed correctly with rockfish.
We headed down to the beach to watch men and women race in canoes, where shotgun blasts that announced first, second and third place winners surprised us. We watched one family remove a canoe from their truck and bring it down to the water’s edge. These canoes are so long — about 30 feet — that it required 13 people to move it! As canoe races continued, we walked over to the Front Beach Platform, where youths ages 8-15 were performing traditional Makah dancing. Although Makah cultural practices can vary from family to family, song and dance have been important ways for Native American people to communicate, tell stories and pass down cultural information to the next generation, according to the Makah Days Facebook page. Today, the Makah still practice their ancient cultural traditions, teach their language to their children, hold potlatches (gift-giving feasts practiced by indigenous peoples of the Pacific Northwest Coast) and participate in modern-day canoe journeys. Along with the large crowd, we watched as young women and girls performed a dance with wooden shakers and in traditional red and black garb dresses. They moved rhythmically as older tribal members held steady on drums and in their vocalizations. The second dance, led by two older boys, was the Sea Serpent Dance, which included all the young dancers keeping a steady, circular pace around the platform. As they followed along to the intonation of the singers and drummers, they made their way around the platform several times before disappearing behind a large canvas. As we neared the end of the street fair, the smell of cooking salmon wafted our way, mixing with the scent of salty sea air and fried dough. Fresh sockeye filets from Cape Flattery Fishermen’s Cooperative were flown in for the salmon bake, and several men and women stayed busy tending to the fish. Sprinkling spices on the filets, the Salmon Bake Crew methodically attached the pieces of bright red flesh with shiny, silver skin to split wooden sticks, skewering them with cedar pieces for flavor and stability. The ensemble was then placed around a huge fire to be smoked and cooked to perfection. The line for the salmon bake was dozens of people long, so we opted to explore more of the street fair and take a walk on the sandy beach.
THE HISTORY BEHIND MAKAH DAYS According to the Makah Tribe’s website, makah.com, Rodman Wanamaker of Philadelphia was a wealthy businessman who traveled in the high-society circles of J.P. Morgan. He was the son of John Wanamaker, the founder of Wanamaker department stores. He used his money to fund budding inventors, but he also held a keen interest in any venture relating to the West, according to wyohistory.org. Driven by various motives related to Native Americans, Wanamaker and Dr. Joseph Kossuth Dixon, a self-proclaimed
“author, explorer, ethnologist and authority on the American Indian,” teamed up for the Rodman Wanamaker Expedition of Citizenship to the North American Indian. Under President Woodrow Wilson, the purpose of this project was to explore Native American culture and make historic records of their life, character, manners and customs. Dixon began working for Wanamaker by leading what they called “expeditions” to various Native American reservations across the country. He would travel with a photographer who
country, and on Aug. 26, 1913, Dixon arrived in Neah Bay and raised the ﬂag on the Makah Reservation.
used a Kodak camera and return with “casual” photographs that were actually staged portraits. Wanamaker’s paramount idea behind this project was “to instill into the Indian mind an ideal of patriotism that would lead him to aspire to citizenship; for the Red Man needs ideals as well as the White Man,” according to “The Purpose and Achievements of the Rodman Wanamaker Expedition of Citizenship to the North American Indian,” written by Dixon.
A Makah Days Facebook post continues the explanation: A Declaration of Allegiance to the U.S. Government was signed on behalf of the Makah Tribe as part of the ﬂag-raising. On June 2, 1924, the Indian Citizenship Act was signed into law by President Calvin Coolodge. The Act recognized Native Americans who served in World War I, in which two Makah men had served 1914-18.
Part of the expedition’s goal was to raise an American ﬂag over every Indian reservation in the
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The northwesternmost point of the contiguous United States, Cape Flattery is a popular trail that makes any hiker feel like they’ve reached the edge of the world. CAPE FLATTERY From the Makah Days celebration, we made the decision to go to Cape Flattery. This easily accessible trail is notorious for being pretty crowded during the summer season, so we expected lots of people out and about on the .75-mile path. Despite the crowds, we made our way down the scenic route that ends at the most northwesterly point of the contiguous Lower 48 states.
Before getting to that point, we stopped at the three other observational decks and took in spectacular views of rugged rocks, seabirds and sea lions cruising through the aquamarine waters. At the final overlook, we saw Tatoosh Island with its stately lighthouse and plenty of fishing boats nearby. On a rock off the island, sea lions sunbathed as cormorants flew overhead. Regardless of the other 10 people on the deck, it was hard to ignore the feeling of vastness as
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After Cape Flattery, it was getting late. We called it a day in Neah Bay, knowing we wanted to check out the Clallam Bay Inn Bar & Restaurant in Clallam Bay on the way back.
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we looked out over the water. With a 200-foot elevation loss on the way out to the overlooks, it was all uphill back to the car. Needless to say, we got our workouts in for the day.
We stopped at the Clallam Bay State Park rest area to use the restrooms and read the signage about the multiple shipwrecks that had occurred nearby off the shores of Clallam Bay and Neah Bay. We learned that Clallam Bay is the westernmost deep-water moorage on the Strait of Juan de Fuca, and in the 19th and 20th centuries, when storms raged on the Pacific, tall-masted ships waited for sailing weather in the protected waters of the bay. In the 1910s, there was no easy transportation to larger communities, so the town of Clallam Bay provided all the necessary services, including a hospital, for the loggers, fishermen, farmers and other folks who made their lives there. After learning these fun facts from the placards, we stopped in at the Clallam Bay Inn and unexpectedly learned from the bartender about the recent renovations to the restaurant and bar and how it has been in the same family for multiple generations. The inn was a much-needed retreat from the crowds, as we were the only people there aside from one other guest and our courteous bartender. But, we were told, the inn becomes the hotspot at night, especially when a Seahawks game is on TV. Our visit to this part of the West End for Makah Days was an excellent opportunity to meet some of the nicest people on the Peninsula, all while enjoying good food, checking out an amazing cultural event and hiking alongside others who also wanted a view from the “beginning of the world,” as the Makah put it. At the end of the day, we recapped, there’s nothing better than a daytrip out here. Our Peninsula never ceases to amaze, and with the changing of the season, we know there will be something new to see and do no matter what the weather holds.
JAMESTOWN S’KLALLAM Tribal Library
Place of refuge & ‘endless learning’
S tory and photo by Diane Urbani de la Paz
he Jamestown S’Klallam Tribal Library in Blyn is compact and powerful. Filled with newspapers, DVDs, CDs, magazines and books, the room is a place to walk Native American paths. Earlier this year, the tribal library won the National Medal for Library and Museum Service, joining nine others across the country. Fellow recipients include the South Carolina Aquarium in Charleston and the National Civil Rights Museum at the Lorraine Motel in Memphis, Tenn. “We’re a public library, we’re a tribal
library, and we’re a family library,” librarian Bonnie Roos writes in the booklet showcasing the medalists. “We try to help tribal citizens and descendants connect with their culture, but we also reach out to the broader community and try to increase their understanding of tribal culture and lifeways — so that there’s more acceptance and understanding.” Many books about the North Olympic Peninsula’s tribes are available for checkout. These range from “The Sea Is My Country,” a history of the Makah tribe by Joshua Reid, to “Sharing Our Memories: Jamestown S’Klallam Elders.” Craig Chambers’ “History of Clallam County” shares the space with Sherman Alexie’s novel “The Absolutely True Diary
of a Part-Time Indian” and his memoir “You Don’t Have to Say You Love Me.” The library’s reference shelf also has the Klallam Dictionary by Timothy Montler. Sites such as the Jamestown Tribal Library serve their communities as places of refuge; they “offer us endless learning,” Institute of Museum and Library Service director Kathryn K. Matthew said. Standing across the parking lot from the totem poles above the Jamestown Tribal Center at 1033 Old Blyn Highway just off U.S. Highway 101, the library is accessible via public transit. Jefferson County bus No. 8 between Sequim and Port Townsend and Clallam Transit buses 50 and 52 to and from Sequim, ClallamTransit.com, serve the tribal campus.
The library is open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Mondays through Fridays and from 9 a.m. to noon and 1 p.m. to 4 p.m. Saturdays; it’s closed for federal holidays and Jamestown Recognition Day, Feb. 10, 2020. To learn more about what the library has to offer, call 360-582-5783, email library@ jamestowntribe.org or visit JamestownTribe.org, where the library is listed under “Programs & Staff.”
FaLL 2019 | Living on the PeninsuLa
THE LIVING END
SKY dance By the Rev. Pam Douglas-Smith
“The cosmos is all there is, all there ever was, and all there will ever be.” — Carl Sagan
ll around us on the North Olympic Peninsula are amazing landscapes that awaken us to the beauty and power of nature. The rocky shores welcoming the tides of the sea demonstrate how to accept everunfolding cycles of life. The soaring old growth forests show how to nurture life energy by grounding in presence. The ascending mountains call for expanding vistas and higher perspectives. And above it all, the sky, frequently the last place we look as we encounter the beauty of the Pacific Northwest. To notice the sky with its lights by day and night is to meet the mysteries of the cosmos. In the clarity of an atmosphere unpolluted by electric lights, one can see a vast number of stars, the Milky Way, the Pleiades and, in special moments, even the Aurora Borealis — all another world arching above the world in which we abide. The modern perspective of cosmic scientists is but the latest voice that sings of the wonders of nature and of the universe. Far earlier and with as much depth of truth live the voices of the ancestral First Peoples of our landscape. They saw the natural beauty, deeply engaged its presence and humbly invoked a spirituality that beheld life as all divine creation. With their wisdom, we can reimagine how oneness with nature can transform our lives for the better. The sky above always invites us to wonder and to discover. In the ancient traditions of the Vedas, a large body of religious texts originating in ancient India, Indra wove a web of life in the
night sky above us that holds us all in one sacred space. The strands of the web intertwine with stars marking their points of intersection. In the Native tradition, it is Grandmother Spider who weaves the web of life that holds us all. Looking up at the patterns of the planets and stars has captivated humankind from time immemorial. Originally, astrology and astronomy were one sacred science. Earth-based traditions from around the world recognize this wisdom of the cosmos. The dark of the moon is the time to plant and to do inner work in one’s depths. The full moon is the time to harvest and to notice the creations one has made. The 13 full moons are celebrated with each given a symbolic name. Cycles of sun, moon and stars all encircle the lives of all of nature’s forms.
“All things are connected ... Humankind has not woven the web of life. We are but one thread within it. Whatever we do to the web, we do to ourselves.” —traditionally attributed to Chief Seattle To embrace this interweaving, there is a story from the Pacific Northwest Snoqualmie tradition — that of the Star Child. It begins with two sisters camped on the prairie as they dig the bulbs of the camas plant. The younger sister falls asleep watching the night sky above and wishing two stars would come to be their husbands. Upon awakening, they found themselves in the Sky World with their new beloveds. In time, after the older sister had given birth, they missed their people. Then one day while digging in the Sky World’s prairies, they broke through the Sky Ground and
38 Living on the PeninsuLa | FaLL 2019
“We need to honor the world of things, not despise it. In most ancient cultures, people believed that everything, even so-called inanimate objects, had an indwelling spirit, and in this respect they were closer to the truth than we are today.” —Eckhart Tolle in “A New Earth” saw earth below. Together they wove a ladder of roots and returned to their childhood home. Upon arrival back to their tribe, there was much celebration, and the Star Child that had come back with them became the Moon. He was then kidnapped and traveled the world, transforming it with his presence. When he finally returned home to his tribe, he discovered a younger brother who became Sun. Together, they decided how to light the world, and the people settled into the pattern they had created, transforming day and night with their abiding presence. This story captivates with its beautiful unfoldings and emerging truths, for archetypal stories can reveal deeper wisdom than pure history: The love of humanity for the night sky that calls us into higher experiences. The longing for home that whispers to us when we journey afar. The coming of the next generation who can bring their light and transform our world. A sky wisdom born of humanity having the courage to journey and the love to return. We recently celebrated the 50th anniversary of the first landing of a
human on the moon. Like the sisters, we were captivated by looking up and seeing possibilities. Then we created a vehicle to make the journey that allowed us to create Tranquility Base on the Moon. From there we gained a new perspective as we saw our home Gaia from the sky above. A globe of blue, green and white floating in the cosmos. Perhaps it is time to consciously weave our ladder of roots and return to humbly live together as we celebrate life’s gifts, remembering the legacy of our ancestors as we embrace great miracles and encounter deeper mysteries so life comes more fully alive for all of us. So look to the sky and watch the dance of the cosmos with yourself right at its heart. The Rev. Pam DouglasSmith is the minister at the Unity Spiritual Enrichment Center in Port Townsend who leads international spiritual pilgrimages. Contact her at email@example.com.
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