Visitor Supplement to the Whidbey News-Times & South Whidbey Record
Central Whidbey Visitor's Guide • 2019
Page 3 For highlights of Central Whidbey’s most unique and historic stops, visit the following:
Welcome to Central Whidbey, where there is plenty to explore and fun to be had
COUPEVILLE WHARF, FRONT STREET
Venture through Central Whidbey and you’ll find a welcoming space to relax, enjoy the fresh air and appreciate well-preserved history in the form of buildings, protected land and various monuments to days of old. Congress created Ebey’s Landing National Historical Reserve in 1978 to preserve history in the area. The Reserve was established to save this rural community and provide “an unbroken historic record” from mid-19th Century exploration and settlement in Puget Sound to the present time. Located in the heart of the Reserve, Coupeville is the second oldest town in Washington state. The town maintains its historic charm as home to many buildings preserved as they appeared in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Coupeville also has a waterfront commercial district with an historic wharf. Today, Coupeville has two dozen buildings that were built between the 1850s and 1870s, which allows visitors and tourists a glimpse into what life was like during Washington’s territorial period. Most of the buildings are more than a century old, while some are more modern. Greenbank, located a short drive south of Coupeville, is a small unincorporated community with an iconic farm.
The historic wharf, built in 1905, is the centerpiece of Coupeville’s inviting downtown and once served as Whidbey Island’s connection to other Puget Sound destinations via boat travel. The wharf extends 500 feet and is visible from great distances in Penn Cove.
The wharf currently houses a shop, a restaurant and an interpretive area. It connects to historic Front Street, which is lined with shops and restaurants in structures mostly built in the 19th and early 20th centuries.
SUNNYSIDE CEMETERY With stunning views across the farmscape of Ebey’s Prairie and Puget Sound, Sunnyside Cemetery sits on a hillside, serving as a peaceful, Continued on page 4
Walk along the Coupeville Historic Waterfront for a seaside view. Each year, the waterfront becomes the watery highway for fast-moving canoe racers during the Penn Cove Water Festival.
Executive editor & Publisher | Keven R. Graves Associate Publisher | Kimberlly Winjum Editor | Jessie Stensland Stories & Photos | Maria Matson, Laura Guido, Jim Waller, Patricia Guthrie Marketing | Jacy Anderson, Kat Biviono, Jimi Switzer Administrative | Adrienne Gomez
2019 • Central Whidbey Visitor's Guide
The Ferry House is one of the oldest buildings in the state.
Continued from page 3
final resting spot for most of Whidbey Island’s earliest pioneers. The names on the headstones match names of towns, streets, lakes and prairies. Sunnyside Cemetery is one of the oldest extant cemeteries from Washington’s territorial days and was once part of pioneer Isaac Ebey’s original donation land claim. Not far from the cemetery is a trail that leads to the Jacob Ebey House, built in 1856, and the Ebey Blockhouse, built in 1854. The Davis Blockhouse rests at the cemetery, built in late 1857 in response to the killing of Col. Isaac Ebey.
The battery at Fort Casey State Park has many places to climb, explore and enjoy a family outing.
FERRY HOUSE The solitary structure, built in 1860, is one of Washington’s oldest residential buildings. It rests on a bluff above Ebey’s Landing, originally built as an inn to serve travelers near the site of the former ferry landing that transported people between Coupeville and Port Townsend. The former inn was built by Winfield Ebey three years after the brutal killing of his brother, Col. Isaac Ebey, as a source of income for his three orphaned children. Isaac Ebey, Whidbey’s first permanent white settler and a prominent territorial figure, was shot and beheaded by raiding northern Native Americans at his cabin only a couple hundred feet behind where the Ferry House presently stands. The National Park Service currently owns the building and visitors can explore the site, but the house itself is open only occasionally.
FORT CASEY Fort Casey, established in the 1890s, served as one of three World War I-era U.S. coast artillery fortifications aimed at protecting the entrance to Puget Sound. Now the sprawling
Craft Breads and Pastries
land that faces Admiralty Inlet is a popular Washington state park with the abandoned fort and its gun batteries serving as a big attraction for children and military history buffs. Another onsite attraction is the iconic Admiralty Head Lighthouse, built in 1903; volunteer docents provide interpretation and tours.
GREENBANK FARM Greenbank Farm was established as a dairy farm in 1904, then in 1943 switched to loganberries, eventually becoming the largest loganberry farm in the United States. The farm was purchased from Chateau Ste. Michelle winery by the Port of Coupeville, Island County and the Nature Conservancy in 1997 with the port taking ownership of 151 acres, including all of the barns and buildings. Currently, the businesses that lease the buildings include a wine shop, cafe, art galleries and a cheese shop. An expansive, off-leash dog park with sweeping Puget Sound views are big attractions. Come visit Central Whidbey for a lesson in history, day of sight-seeing or for a walk with beautiful scenery. There’s so much to do, you won’t be disappointed you stopped by.
Open for Lunch and Dinner Thursday through Monday 901 Grace St, Coupeville
Under the tree at 901 Grace Street, Coupeville
Saturdays from 8 a.m. to 3pm-ish (or until sold out.)
Central Whidbey Visitor's Guide • 2019
Whidbey has many outdoor opportunities Outdoor recreation enthusiasts will find no shortage of places to explore on this scenic land. Surrounded by picturesque shorelines, wildlife and open space, Central Whidbey Island is a playground for those who love nature. The area features four waterfront state parks with shorelines that bend around the west side of the island; two of them offer overnight camping. Central Whidbey is a place to bike, fish, hike, kayak, fly a kite and watch wildlife. Extreme adventurers find it a place to kite surf, parasail, surf and go scuba diving. Here is a sampling of some of the outdoor recreation opportunities available on Central Whidbey: TOUR PENN COVE BY BOAT Water lovers can take in the majestic beauty of Penn Cove on their own while getting in a workout by kayak. Rentals are available seasonally at the historic Coupeville Wharf. Kayak rentals are now managed by Penn Cove Outfitters. If kayaking isn’t your thing, consider a sailing adventure. The Schooner Suva is a Gatsby-era schooner built in 1925 for
Coupeville resident and attorney, Frank J Pratt Jr. It was designed by Ted Geary, a noted Seattle naval architect. Built in Hong Kong, then shipped to British Columbia for spars and rigging, Suva sailed into Coupeville making a grand entrance. Throughout its next five owners, Suva remained in Puget Sound waters. It is now the proud flagship of the Coupeville Maritime Heritage Foundation, only its sixth owner, and open to the public for tours and sailing from the Coupeville Wharf. (www.schoonersuva.org) HIKE AT EBEY’S LANDING One of Whidbey’s most picturesque vantage points, Ebey’s Landing State Park draws hikers, photographers and beach watchers year-round. The bluff trails offer stunning views of Puget Sound, Mount Rainier and the island’s coastline. On the bluff above Ebey’s Landing, hikers can look over the prairie’s vast farmlands and see Mount Rainier in the distance. Hikers also may follow a trail that will take them to the historic Jacob Ebey House, the Ebey Blockhouse and on to Sunnyside Cemetery.
BIRD WATCH AT CROCKETT LAKE On any given day, bird watchers can spot bald eagles, northern harriers, red-tail hawks and great blue herons, often on the same outing. The massive, shallow lake and surrounding wetlands is a raptor hot spot where at least 17 species of shorebirds and 13 species of ducks have been recorded. It is a mixture of salt and freshwater located along the North American Flyway and is designated an Audubon Important Birding Area. The best time to see shorebirds is during the northbound (April and May) and southbound (early July through October) migrations. MOUNTAIN BIKE ON KETTLES TRAILS There are more than 30 miles of trails in the Kettles Trails system, which cover both Fort Ebey State Park and Island County land. Although a popular hiking place, many of the trails also are used for mountain biking with riders parking their vehicles near trail heads along Highway 20 or at the state park. Continued on page 6
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Town Shop: 15 Coveland Street | Coupeville Shop Hours: 10am - 5pm Daily Farm: Open during summer season 360.544.4132 | www.lavenderwind.com
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101 NW Coveland Street • Coupeville 360.678.6603
Tom Kier, Broker Realtor® 360-333-2248 firstname.lastname@example.org www.livewhidbeyislandlife.com
2019 • Central Whidbey Visitor's Guide
Continued from page 5 Because Central Whidbey benefits from a rain shadow, drier trails make the Kettles system a popular place to ride during the cooler months.
FISH AT STATE PARKS Salmon fishing from the beach is common at Fort Casey and Fort Ebey state parks during late summer and early fall. Every odd year, pink salmon migrate through Admiralty Inlet in staggering numbers with August generally the peak month to catch them. Coho salmon, or
Don't miss Central Whidbey’s fantastic hikes and trails, such as the Kettle’s trail system in Coupeville.
silvers, follow right behind them and are generally caught through October. Silvers return every year, luring some anglers to book overnight camping reservations at Fort Casey, one of the better shores to try to catch them using the bobber-and-herring method. DOG WALK AT GREENBANK FARM Dogs are allowed off leash on parts of the the expansive, scenic land at Greenbank Farm, which is a beautiful place to roam for dogs and people alike. At the crest of the sloping property, a visitor can see Puget Sound waters on the east and west sides of Whidbey Island. Across Highway 525 are numerous great blue heron nests high in the trees. Aside from the large open meadow, walkers also may travel along a wooded trail. CAMP AT STATE PARKS The remnants of the old U.S. coastal defense forts Ebey and Casey provide fun and adventure for children and adults alike. Fort Ebey offers a wooded campground with 39 standard campsites and 11 utility campsites. Fort Casey is known more as a day-use park but offers 21 standard tent sites and 14 utility sites next to the Coupeville ferry landing that are used year-round. Deer are abundant at Fort Casey, particularly around the nearby Camp Casey Conference Center grounds.
N O RT H W E S T
(360) 678-5434 www.coupevillechamber.com ©Don Bush Photography
CUSTOM SOFAS, LOTS OF BAR & COUNTER STOOLS, GARDEN ART, LONG DINING TABLES, HUNDREDS OF KITCHEN CHAIRS American Alder tops, drawer sides and frames • Plywood drawer bottoms • Mortise and tenon joinery add strength • Fluted dowels add strength and longevity • American Alder veneered side panels • English dovetail drawer construction • Whisper-quiet full extension metal ball bearing drawer slides • Adjustable glides on the bottom of legs
Hours: Mon - Sat 9:30-5:30, Sun 11-4 919 Riverside Drive Mount Vernon, WA 98273 www.nwff.com (360) 424-8455
EVENTS Aug 10, 11 Sept 21, 22 October Dec 7 Dec 7
Arts Festival Kite Festival Haunting Jingle Trail 5K Run/Walk Greening Coupeville
2019 • Central Whidbey Visitor's Guide
Culinary options abound in Central Whidbey
The Cove Cafe 26 Front St. (on the wharf) Open: 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., Wednesday to Sunday. Fare: A blend of comfort foods including chowder, mussels, fish and chips, sandwiches and salads. Contact: 360-678-6434.
Knead & Feed 4 Front St. Open: 9 a.m. to 3 p.m., daily. Fare: Breakfast, bakery items, soups, salads, sandwiches, mussels. Contact: 360-678-5431.
Christopher’s on Whidbey 103 N.W. Coveland St. Open: Lunch and dinner hours vary. Fare: Fresh, creative Northwest cuisine. Contact: 360-678-5480.
Front Street Grill 20 Front Street Open: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., Monday to Thursday (9 p.m. Fridays), 8 a.m. to 9 p.m., Saturday (8 p.m. Sunday) Fare: Classic American grill experience. Gluten free and vegetarian options. Kids menu. Contact: 360-682-2551.
Lavender Wind 15 N.W. Coveland St. Open: 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., daily. Fare: Coffee, baked goods, handcrafted chocolates. Contact: 360-544-4132.
Ciao 501 N.E. 9th St. Open: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., Monday through Saturday. Fare: Wood-fired pizza, sandwiches, salads, pasta. Contact: 360-678-0800.
Kapaws Iskreme 21 Front St. Open: 11:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m., daily March to December. Fare: Ice cream. Contact: 360-929-2122
Coupe’s Last Stand Corner of Front and Alexander streets Open: Seasonally, 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m., Memorial Weekend to mid-October, depending on weather. Fare: Hot dogs, brats, polish sausage and veggie dogs with all the fixings. Contact: 360-320-1143
Callen’s Restaurant 12981 SR 20, Coupeville Open: 8 a.m. to 8 p.m., open seven days a week, 9 p.m. close Friday and Saturday Fare: Whidbey Island-inspired from an all-scratch kitchen: breakfast, burgers, steak, salads and more. Contact: 360-499-2306
bayleaf 101 N.W. Coveland St. Open: Year-round hours, expanded in summer and holiday season. Fare: Wine, cheese, deli, gourmet food items. Contact: 360-678-6603.
The Lower Loft Eatery 12 Front St. Open: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., daily. Fare: Soups, sandwiches, salads, baked goods and specialty items. Contact: 360-678-2900 The Oystercatcher 901 Grace St. Open: 12-3 p.m., 5-8:30 p.m., Wednesday through Sunday. Fare: High-end dining offering innovative dishes with fresh local ingredients. Menu changes frequently. Contact: 360-678-0683
Continued on page 8
KNEAD & FEED
Old-fashioned family bakery with breakfast, lunch & water views since 1974. 4 NW Front Street | Coupeville 360-678-5431 • www.kneadandfeed.com
2072 W Captain Whidbey Inn Road | Coupeville 360-678-4097 • www.captainwhidbey.com
LITTLE RED HEN BAKERY 901 Grace Street | Coupeville (360) 678-0683 www.littleredhenbakerywhidbey.com
FRONT STREET GRILL
20 Front St NW | Coupeville 360-682-2551 • www.fsgcoupeville.com
901 Grace Street | Coupeville 360-678-0683 www.oystercatcherwhidbey.com
25171 State Route 525 | Greenbank 360-222-3373 • @molkaxete
2019 • Central Whidbey Visitor's Guide Continued from page 7
Phad Thai Restaurant 602 N. Main St. Open: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. weekdays, closed Monday. 12-8 p.m. weekends Fare: Authentic Thai food. Contact: 360-678-6963. Penn Cove Brewing Co. 103 S. Main St. Open: 2:30-10 p.m., weekdays (11 p.m. Friday), 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Saturday (8 p.m. Sunday). Fare: Craft beer, rotating menu. Contact: 360-682-5754. Pizza Factory 107 S. Main St. Open: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., except Sundays 12-8 p.m. Fare: Pizza, pasta, soup, salad, sandwiches. Contact: 360-678-3200. Sunshine Drip Coffee Lounge 306 N. Main St., Open: 7 a.m. to 5 p.m., weekdays; 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday; 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sunday. Fare: Espresso, sandwiches, salads, baked goods. Contact: 360-682-6201. Toby’s Tavern 8 Front St. Open: 11 a.m. to close, daily. Kitchen closes at 9 p.m. Sunday to Thursday and 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Fare: Fresh local seafood, steak, prime rib, sandwiches, salads, soups, burgers. Contact: 360-678-4222 Tyee Restaurant and Lounge 405 S. Main St. Open: 6:30 a.m. to 2 a.m. Fare: Diner-style meals. Contact: 360-678-6616. Vail Wine Shop and Tasting Room 22 Front St. Open: 12-5:30 p.m., Wednesday to Monday (7:30 p.m. on Fridays) Fare: Tasting room and wine bar. Contact: 360-632-2227.
Get a good night’s rest at these unique places
In Coupeville, the second-oldest town in Washington state, there are no shortages of places to stay. The town provides many historical and scenic places to sleep for a little “island getaway” overnight stay. Down the highway, Greenbank also offers places to stay.
Fort Casey Inn Two-bedroom houses, next to 467-acre Fort Casey State Park 1276 Engle Road 360-678-5050 www.fortcaseyinn.com
Anchorage Inn B&B Seven rooms, big front porch 807 N. Main St., 360-678-5581
The Inn at Penn Cove Built in 1889, it was originally the Jacob Jenne house 602 N. Main St. 360-678-8000 www.whidbey.com/penncove
The Blue Goose Inn Housed in two restored Victorian homes, near the water 702 N. Main St. 360-678-4284 www.bluegooseinn.com Captain Whidbey Inn Built in 1907, features rustic décor and waterfront restaurant 2072 W. Captain Whidbey Road 360-678-4097 www.captainwhidbey.com Compass Rose B&B 1890 Queen Anne 508 S. Main St., 360-678-5318 www.compassrosebandb.com Coupeville Inn A French Mansard style Inn 200 NW Coveland St. 360-678-6668
Even greener with
EWS GR O YN BE 8
ESTEOYF THE B B WHID
ARDS ICE AW S CHO READER
Call Now For Reservations! 360-679-4003 877-679-4003 NAS WHIDBEY • OAK HARBOR COUPEVILLE • GREENBANK FREELAND • BAYVIEW LANGLEY • CLINTON
Jenne Farm 1908 house on a 143-acre farm 538 Engle Road 360-678-4433 www.jennefarm.homestead.com Tyee Restaurant, Lounge, & Motel Comfortable lodgings, friendly atmosphere. 405 S Main St. 360-678-6616
GREENBANK Guest House Log Cottages Five cottages in wooded seclusion 24371 S. State Route 525 360-678-3115 www.guesthouselogcottages.com Lagoon Point B&B Log home with water view 3617 Marine View Dr. 818-895-7464 or 818-903-1980 www.lagoonpoint-bandb.com The Yoga Lodge B&B Inn 10-acre yoga retreat 3475 Christie Road 360-929-5985 www.yogalodge.com For other Coupeville and Greenbank accommodations, go to the Coupeville Lodging Association’s website at www.coupevillelodging.com
2019 • Central Whidbey Visitor's Guide
Traditions in Coupeville make good family fun PENN COVE MUSSELFEST
Mussels are the centerpiece every March for a two-day festival, which features chowder-tasting and mussel-eating competitions, mussel farm tours and activities for all ages. Get to the Rec Hall early to purchase tickets to the mussel chowder tasting competition, which pits local restaurants against each other for the coveted mussel chowder prize. Tickets sell out quickly, so organizers recommend that visitors buy tickets before noon each day.
PENN COVE WATER FESTIVAL
The Penn Cove Water Festival Association hosts an annual revival of the historic Coupeville Water Festival by bringing families together to enjoy Native American culture. The event features annual tribal canoe races, arts and crafts, demonstrations, storytelling, dance performances, artist demonstrations, authentic Native foods, children's activities and exhibits and displays. Tribal canoe racers, called pullers,” come from all over the region to compete in races from the Coupeville Boat Launch to the Coupeville Wharf.
GREENBANK FARMS Delicious Food Made Fresh on Whidbey Island Baked daily, by the slice or whole to go. Hearty seafood chowder, soups, salads and sandwiches using local ingredients whenever possible. Serving espresso and select beers & wines.
COUPEVILLE ARTS AND CRAFTS FESTIVAL
The Coupeville Arts and Crafts Festival has been held each summer for more than 50 years with arts and crafts vendors from around the country. The festival also features an art gallery and wine reception, a wine and beer garden, a hands-on children’s activity area, a food court and live entertainment. The Coupeville Continued on page 10
Free Cheese Tasting Unique Gourmet Variety Gift Certificates Souvenirs & Gifts Local Jams & Syrup Picnic Foods (360) 222-3474 ~ Open daily year ‘round ~ www.facebook.com/GreenbankCheeseAndSpecialty
2019 • Central Whidbey Visitor's Guide
Festival Association is all about giving back to the local community. It is a 100-percent volunteer-run organization and the money raised stays local through annual grants given to various community organizations and projects.
patch complete with trolly rides and a haunted fort. Stop by Front Street for the Great Pumpkin Race and Halloween Torchlight Parade. Events vary from week to week and by appeal. Check out www.hauntingofcoupeville.com for all of the dates and times as the event approaches.
HAUNTING OF COUPEVILLE
GREENING OF COUPEVILLE
Continued from page 9
Each October a variety of community partners, with the Coupeville Chamber of Commerce at the helm, host a month of Halloween and harvest-related activities. Check out the corn maze or pumpkin
On the first Saturday in December each year, the town celebrates an event that’s uniquely Coupeville. Residents start the morning braving the cold for a rush of exercise adrenaline with the Jingle
Trail Run through Fort Casey and Camp Casey. Saratoga Orchestra offers a free concert at the high school in the afternoon and several churches hold holiday bazaars with special meals. As the evening approaches, people line Main and Front streets for the annual Greening of Coupeville Parade, complete with Santa. Following the parade, everyone gathers at Cooke’s Corner Park for caroling and a tree-lighting. Downtown businesses stay open for late-night shopping while boats from the Oak Harbor Yacht Club cruise through Penn Cove for the Lighted Boat Parade.
— Events Calendar —
July 6, Rhododendron Care Class, 10 a.m.-12 p.m., Meerkerk Gardens, Greenbank. Cost is $10 a person. July 13, Second Saturdays at Greenbank Farm. Check out art galleries and shops. Light refreshments, music, periodic art demonstrations and fun for all ages.
Aug. 10, Second Saturdays at Greenbank Farm. Aug. 10, Race the Reserve 2019, Coupeville Elementary School. Aug. 10-11, Coupeville Arts and Crafts Festival. The annual event fills downtown Coupeville with booths filled with handcrafted art. Aug. 10, Wine & Rhodies Gala Benefit, 5:309:30 p.m., Meerkerk Gardens, Greenbank. $100 a person. Aug. 17, Bluegrass in the Gardens, 12-4:30 p.m., Meerkerk Gardens, Greenbank. Aug. 17, Tour de Whidbey, ride begins at the Coupeville High School Commons. Aug. 24-25, Whidbey Working Artists Studio Tour, 10 a.m.-5 p.m., various studios island-wide.
Sept. 7-8, Fall Plant Sale, 10 a.m.-3 p.m., Meerkerk Gardens, Greenbank. Sept. 14, Second Saturdays at Greenbank Farm. Sept. 21-22, Whidbey Kite Festival, Camp Casey Conference Center, Coupeville.
December, Greening of Coupeville. December, Jingle Trail 5K, Camp Casey. The 5k Fun Run/Walk through scenic trails of Camp Casey and Fort Casey State Park. Date TBA. December, Caroling in Coupeville Contest and Fundraiser. Enjoy Central Whidbey nonprofit teams caroling along Front Street in Historic Coupeville. Date TBA. Dec. 1, Gingerbread workshop, Coupeville Rec Hall. A fun Thanksgiving weekend event for kids, and a winter pantry stocking benefit for the food bank. Dec. 14, Second Saturdays at Greenbank Farm. Check out art galleries and shops. Light refreshments, music, periodic art demonstrations and fun for all ages.
October October, Haunting of Coupeville, all month long. Oct. 12, Second Saturdays at Greenbank Farm. Check out art galleries and shops. Light refreshments, music, periodic art demonstrations and fun for all ages. Oct. 12, Learn to Propagate Rhododendrons Class, 10 a.m.-12 p.m., Meerkerk Gardens, Greenbank. $10 a person. Oct. 27, Pumpkin Races, 1 p.m., Coupeville.
November Nov. 9, Second Saturdays at Greenbank Farm. Nov. 30, Sip n’ Shop on the Cove, Coupeville.
Save the DATE!
Penn Cove Water Festival May 16, 2020 • Historic Coupeville, WA USA
PennCoveWaterFestival@gmail.com • PennCoveWaterFestival.com
Keep in eye out in 2020 for... February: Coupeville Chocolate Walk March: Penn Cove Musselfest April: Farmers Markets running until September May: Penn Cove Water Festival June: Whidbey Island Sail Fest, the Lion’s Club Garage Sale
6184 Highway 20 Anacortes, WA Open Daily 8AM - 11:30PM (360) 293-4200
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