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FALL 2018

LIVING on the peninsula NEIGHBORHOOD HAUNTS UNDERNEATH THE CITY

Port Angeles’ haunted history on tour

‘NOT A FORTUNE TELLER’

Mediums aid in demystifying life, death

LEGENDS, LORE AND MORE Chilling tales from the West End

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fall 2018

Table of Contents

07

10

17

20

06 | peninsula events calendar

Check out what’s happening on the Peninsula in September, October, November and December

07 | arts, culture and entertainment

Storytellers are ready to share ghost stories, spooky tales and storytelling secrets this fall

10Visitors | buried in the past can dig up the secrets of the Port Angeles Underground thanks to local tour group

14 | outdoor recreation

Three cyclists ride more than 130 miles from Port Townsend to La Push in two days

17 | meet the psychics

Women practice intuitive arts and guide others toward answers about life and death

20 | legends, lore and true stories

These mysteries and tall tales have yet to be solved on the West End of the Peninsula

24 | the daytripper

Lake Quinault Lodge is a chance for a relaxing weekend getaway, even if the snow sets in

28 | pinch of peninsula

The Salty Girls of Sequim share their recipe for a lot of clam chowder. Bring friends to this feast!

29 | the living end

Go out into your world with eyes open, ears alert and soul ready to receive to new experiences

ON THE COVER A group of visitors are taken on a tour on the second floor of the Family Shoe Store in Port Angeles. This second floor, originally called The Portland Rooms and later changed to The Essen Rooms, was a brothel until it was forced to close in the 1940s. photo by Laura Lofgren

LIVING ON THE PENINSULA Vol. 14, No. 3

Produced and published by PENINSULA DAILY NEWS and SEQUIM GAZETTE Advertising Department 305 W. First St., Port Angeles, WA 98362 • 360-452-2345 • peninsuladailynews.com 147 W. Washington St., Sequim, WA 98382 • 360-683-3311 • sequimgazette.com Terry R. Ward, regional publisher | Steve Perry, general manager Editorial & Production: Brenda Hanrahan & Laura Lofgren, special sections editors Advertising Sales: 360-683-3311 • 360-452-2345 ©2018 Peninsula Daily News | ©2018 Sequim Gazette

FaLL 2018 Living on the PeninsuLa

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CALENDAR OF EVENTS

SEPTEMBER, OCTOBER, NOVEMBER & DECEMBER 2018 SEPTEMBER

FORKS/WEST END •  Sept. 13-16: Forever Twilight in Forks, various locations and times. •  Sept. 15: Forks High School 5K Fun Run, walk or run, Forks High School parking lot, 261 Spartan Ave., 7:30 a.m. to 9 a.m. •  Sept. 16: “The Redcoats Retreat” 5K Fun Run, Elk Creek Conservation Area, 2290 Calawah Way, 4:15 p.m. to 5:45 p.m. •  Sept. 18: Forks History and More, First Congregational Church, 280 Spartan Ave., 11:30 a.m. •  Sept. 22: Olympic National Park free entrance to celebrate National Public Lands Day. •  Sept. 22-23: West End Thunder Drag Races, Forks Municipal Airport, gate opens at 8:30 a.m. •  Sept. 22: Walk Run Hope 2018 at Mary Clark Road pit to Cooper Ranch Road, 10 a.m. PORT ANGELES •  Sept. 22: Big Hurt multi-sport race, locations/ various times. •  Sept. 21-23: Arts & Draughts Beer & Wine Festival, downtown, various times. •  Sept. 22: Olympic National Park free entrance celebrates National Public Lands Day. Sept. 28: Pops & Picnic!, 7 p.m., Vern Burton Community Center, 308 E. Fourth St. •  Sept. 29: American Sprint Boat Racing, Extreme Sports Park, 2917 W. Edgewood Drive. •  Sept. 29 to Oct. 1: Cascadia Mountain Bike Championships, Dry Hill, various race times. SEQUIM •  Morning Bird Walks, Wednesdays throughout the year, Dungeness River Audubon Center in Railroad Bridge Park, 8:30 a.m. to 10:30 a.m. •  First Friday Art Walks, every month, art venues throughout Sequim, 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. •  Sept. 15: Waterfront Days at John Wayne Marina, 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. •  Sept. 15: 26th annual Reach and Row For Hospice, John Wayne Marina, noon to 4 p.m. •  Sept. 21-23: Sequim Pickleball Club Tournament — The Blue Hole Bash at the pickleball courts at Carrie Blake Park, 202 N. Sequim Ave. •  Sept. 22: Fore The Kids Olympic Peninsula YMCA Golf Tournament, The Cedars at Dungeness, 1965 Woodcock Road, 9 a.m. to noon. •  Sept. 27-28: Dungeness River Festival at Railroad Bridge Park, 2151 W. Hendrickson Road, 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. on Sept. 27, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. on Sept. 28. PORT TOWNSEND/JEFFERSON COUNTY •  Sept. 12-16: Centrum’s Ukulele Festival, Fort Worden State Park, 200 Battery Way, various times. •  Sept. 14-15: Cabin Fever Quilt Show, Jefferson County Fairgrounds, 4907 Landes St., 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. •  Sept. 15-16: Jefferson County Farm Tour, variety

6 Living on the Peninsula Fall 2018

of farms, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. •  Sept. 21-23: 19th annual Port Townsend Film Festival, variety of locations and times.

OCTOBER

FORKS/WEST END •  Oct. 6-7: Hobuck Hoedown Paddle Surf Festival at Hobuck Beach in Neah Bay, various times. •  Oct. 10-14: Hickory Shirt/Heritage Days, many events at Rainforest Arts Center, 35 N. Forks Ave. •  Oct. 16: Forks History and More, First Congregational Church, 280 Spartan Ave., 11:30 a.m. PORT ANGELES •  Oct. 5-7: Dungeness Crab & Seafood Festival, City Pier, Gateway Transit Center and other downtown locations in Port Angeles, various times. •  Oct. 19-21: Forest Storytelling Festival, Peninsula College’s Little Theater, 1502 E. Lauridsen Blvd. •  Oct. 28: Harvest of Harmony: An Afternoon of Music presented by the Grand Olympics Chorus (of Sweet Adelines International), First Presbyterian Church, 139 W. Eighth St., 2:30 p.m. •  Oct. 31: Downtown Trick-or-Treat, variety of downtown businesses, 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. SEQUIM •  Oct. 5: Mad Hatters Tea Luncheon for Breast Cancer fundraiser, Sequim Community Church, 950 N. 5th Ave., 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. •  Oct. 10: Free Working on Wellness (WOW!) Forum, Trinity United Methodist Church, 100 S. Blake Ave., 2:30 p.m. to 3:30 p.m. •  Oct. 19-21 and Oct. 26-28: “Sylvia,” Olympic Theatre Arts, 414 N. Sequim Ave., times vary by performance day. •  Oct. 27: Harvest of Harmony: An Afternoon of Music by the Grand Olympics Chorus (of Sweet Adelines International), Trinity United Methodist Church, 100 S. Blake Ave., 2:30 p.m.  •  Oct. 31: Downtown Trick-or-Treat, various locations in downtown Sequim, 3 p.m. to 5 p.m. PORT TOWNSEND/JEFFERSON COUNTY •  Oct. 6-7: The Great Port Townsend Bay Kinetic Sculpture Race, various location and times. •  Oct. 6: Art Walk, 5:30 p.m. to 8 p.m. •  Oct. 18-20 and Oct. 25-27: Kiwanis Haunt Town, Port Townsend Elks Lodge, 555 Otto St. •  Oct. 31: Port Townsend Main Street Downtown Trick-or-Treat and Costume Parade, parade starts at 1st Security Plaza, 734 Water St., 4 p.m.

NOVEMBER

FORKS/WEST END •  Nov. 11: Olympic National Park free entrance to celebrate Veterans Day. •  Nov. 20: Forks History and More, First Congregational Church, 280 Spartan Ave., 11:30 a.m. •  Nov. 22: Fourth annual Turkey Trot, run or walk the Elk Creek Conservation Trail, sign up at 8 a.m., race starts at 9 a.m.

PORT ANGELES •  Nov. 11: Olympic National Park Free Entrance Day to celebrate Veterans Day. •  Nov. 24: Home Town Holiday Tree Lighting and Santa arrival, Conrad Dyar Memorial Fountain, intersection of First and Laurel streets in downtown Port Angeles, starts at 3:30 p.m. •  Nov. 24 to Jan 6: Port Angeles Winter Ice Village, downtown, various times SEQUIM •  Nov. 1-4: “Sylvia,” Olympic Theatre Arts, 414 N. Sequim Ave., times vary by performance day. •  Nov. 24: Home Town Holidays! at Centennial Place, corner of Sequim Avenue and Washington Street, 1:30 p.m. to 5:30 p.m. PORT TOWNSEND/JEFFERSON COUNTY •  Nov. 23-24: Port Townsend Arts Guild Holiday Craft Sale, Port Townsend Community Center, 620 Tyler St., 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

DECEMBER

FORKS/WEST END •  Dec. 1: Breakfast with Santa, Forks Congregational Church, 280 Spartan Ave., 8 a.m. to 11 a.m. •  Dec. 1: 17th annual Twinkle Light Parade on Forks Avenue, 6:30 p.m. to 6:45 p.m. •  Dec. 8-9: Soroptimist International of the Olympic Rain Forest Festival of Trees, Rainforest Arts Center, 35 N. Forks Ave., various times •  Dec. 18: Forks History and More, First Congregational Church, 280 Spartan Ave.,11:30 a.m. PORT ANGELES

•  Dec. 1-2: Christmas Fair, Port Angeles Vern Burton Community Center, 308 E. Fourth St., various times •  Throughout December: Port Angeles Winter Ice Village, downtown, various times.

SEQUIM

•  Dec. 7: First Friday - Meet the Artist!, Blue Whole Gallery, 129 W. Washington St., 5 p.m. to 8 p.m.

PORT TOWNSEND/JEFFERSON COUNTY •  Dec. 1: Main Street Treelighting Celebration and

Santa Visit, treelighting and Santa visit, Haller Fountain, 4:30 p.m. Santa visits with children afterwards at Pope Marine Building, 100 Madison St. •  Dec. 8 and 15: Main Street/Kiwanis Choo Choo Rides for Families, at Pope Marine Park, on Water Street between Madison and Monroe streets, 1 p.m. to 4 p.m. •  Dec. 8-9: 32nd annual Chimacum Craft Fair, 91 West Valley Road, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. •  Dec. 15: Open Parlor Tours, self-guided tour of historic inns and homes in Port Townsend, noon to 4 p.m. All event information listed here is up to date as of press time. Do you have an event you’d like to see listed in our December edition of Living on the Peninsula? Email special sections editor Laura Lofgren at llofgren@ soundpublishing.com with your late-December, January, February and March event information. Publication of submitted events is not guaranteed.


ARTS, CULTURE & ENTERTAINMENT

Ghost stories, spooky tales and messengers

Rebecca Hom will appear at the Forest Storytelling Festival this October in Port Angeles. photo by Ingrid Nixon By Diane Urbani de la Paz This woman lives alone in a farmhouse in Dungeness, having said farewell to her sea captain husband. Except he’s not gone. The seafarer’s ship sank, yes. Yet he keeps his widow company in the form of a ghost, a presence, a vaporous member of the household. Our lady knows the ghost is with her when she hears her antique rocking chair sway. As Ingrid Nixon tells this story, she has a particular dwelling in mind. It’s a Gothic Revival farmhouse built 156 years ago — looming to this day not far from Dungeness Bay. She doesn’t tell her audience the place of which she speaks. But some listeners, when they hear the ghost story, say they picture it inside the McAlmond House, a relic of the New Dungeness settlement of the mid-1800s. Turns out that’s the very one Nixon is thinking of. Built by ship’s carpenters for Capt. Elijah H. McAlmond and fairly close by Nixon’s place, the big old house inspired her spooky tale.

A nationally known storyteller who’s long been part of the nonprofit group the Story People of Clallam County, Nixon loves the scary stuff. She knows exactly how to take you by the hand and guide you down that winding path. This fall, she’ll be at the Forest Storytelling Festival, a weekend spiced with pre-Halloween ghost stories and other tales likely to unnerve. The festival, Oct. 19-21 at the main Peninsula College campus in Port Angeles, is put on by the nonprofit Story People of Clallam County. It promises concerts, workshops, story swaps — and this year, performances by a man who specializes in spine-tinglers. Jeff Doyle, founder of the Scary Story Festival of Howell, Mich., is still choosing which tales to tell at the event. He’s a featured performer alongside Minton Sparks, a Tennessean who blends honky-tonk music with spoken word; Thomas Doty, whose family connections include the Takelma and Shasta people of the Klamath Mountains; griot storyteller Decee Cornish; Israeli actress Noa

Baum; and storyteller-novelist Rachel Dunstan Muller. For information about festival tickets, tellers and activities, visit ClallamStoryPeople.org.

ENJOYING THE SCARE

Before we dip into how to tell a good ghost story, let’s consider why so many of us, children, grown-ups and those in between, so want fright. Nixon, for her part, thinks we bravely enter the creepy world created by the storyteller because it’s a step away from our workaday lives. In a way, she believes, scary stories let us play with strange ideas. “Perhaps,” Nixon wonders, “in allowing ourselves to be scared, we discover how to deal with fear?” Besides, we just relish the shivers, added Rebecca Hom, another scary-story expert. Artistic director and performer at the Forest Storytelling Festival, she likes a ghost story that reveals a message at the end. One of her favorites, “The Linen Shroud,” is about selfishness — and the possibility of forgiveness if one makes amends.

FaLL 2018 Living on the PeninsuLa

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Hom tells lots of shivery tales, including one from her own experience. Two summers ago, she and her husband visited Big Hole National Battlefield, the Montana historic site where, in August 1877, an estimated 70 to 90 members of the Nez Perce tribe died at the hands of the U.S. Army. Though suffering from a migraine headache that made it difficult to walk, Hom was determined to start down the interpretive trail. The first thing she remembers seeing was a sign asking visitors to be respectful of this sacred ground. “As we came to the sign, I felt something at my elbow,” maybe just a finger and thumb touching her arm. A muscle cramp, Hom thought. She kept walking from teepee to teepee as her husband read to her from a pamphlet provided at the trailhead. When they came to one of the last spots, he handed the pamphlet to her and said, “Why don’t you read about this one?” This teepee had been a birthing lodge, she learned. A midwife, mother and child had been killed inside it. Hom felt the hand tug at her elbow again, though no one appeared to be there. She finished the loop trail and, struggling with her headache, walked with her husband to their vehicle. Silently, she asked: What do you want me to do? “Just tell the story,” the ghost responded. At various gatherings since that day, Hom has done so. Sometimes, “ghosts don’t mean us any harm,” she said. “They just want the story told.” The timing of her visit to Big Hole, and especially the birthing lodge, taught her about waiting; attending to something as subtle as the touch on her arm. Taking a pause, Hom added, is a potent method in storytelling. Waiting for just a beat, letting your words hang in the silent air: These enhance a ghost story. Listeners are lured closer. The connection between speaker and audience grows stronger. Doyle, too, knows this well, having started out as a storyteller on camping trips with his children. “Tell about what scares you,” he advises. “If I think it’s creepy, then other people will,” especially if you have a campfire and darkness on your side. Does he believe in ghosts? “Of course I do,” Doyle said immediately. “I do believe there are things that want to communicate with us … And strange things happen, things that are unexplained.”

Ingrid Nixon, here as mistress of ceremonies at a May 2017 story slam at Sequim’s Olympic Theatre Arts, has tips on how to tell a potent ghost story. photo by Diane Urbani de la Paz

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STORIES, SWAPS AND FESTIVALS The nonprofit Story People of Clallam County invite storytellers of all levels — and listeners — to their monthly Story Swap and to the 24th annual Forest Storytelling Festival, both in Port Angeles. Admission is free to the Story Swap, held at 7 p.m. on the third Tuesday of each month in the Raymond Carver Room at the Port Angeles Library, 2210 S. Peabody St. A featured teller steps up for the first 40 minutes; then comes a refreshment break. An open-mic section for storytellers rounds out the evening. The Oct. 19-21 Forest Storytelling Festival is a weekend full of performances, workshops and camaraderie at Peninsula College’s main campus, 1502 E. Lauridsen Blvd. Tickets to the concerts by featured tellers from around the world range from $10 to $20, while workshops cost $20. A free story swap and open mic happens on Saturday, Oct. 20, and a free public concert of inspirational stories by festival featured tellers is set for Sunday, Oct. 21. For lots more information about storytelling activities, visit ClallamStoryPeople.org, or phone Erran Sharpe at 360-460-6594. TIPS FOR TELLING

Then there’s Nixon, who has a master’s degree in storytelling from East Tennessee State University, which is not far from the National Storytelling Festival in Jonesborough, Tenn., where she has performed. She’s happy to offer succinct tips in effective scariness:

Jeff Doyle, founder of the Scary Story Festival in Howell, Mich., will bring his creepy tales to Port Angeles this fall. photo courtesy of Jeff Doyle

•  Make your creepy story plausible, at least at the start … •  Let the suspense build as the story develops. •  If you speak softly, the audience will need to quiet down and lean in. •  Don’t rush the story; take your time. •  Don’t try to convince your audi-

ence that what you are telling is scary. Instead, use your language, silences and movement to draw them in to judge the creepiness of the situation. •  Know your audience. You don’t want to tell kids stories that will scar them for life. A ghost story is especially satisfying when, Nixon added, it helps us explore

our own lives and how we move through the world. For an example, she casts her eyes to another tale starring spirits from the beyond. “In Charles Dickens’ ‘A Christmas Carol,’ perhaps one of the most famous ghost stories of all time,” Nixon noted, “Ebenezer Scrooge meets up with four ghosts that inspire him to change his way of living.” 

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BURIED IN THE PAST

Port Angeles has a wealth of history above and below its downtown streets. Port Angeles Underground Heritage Tours takes visitors to a time of intensive restructure, sordid dealings, paranormal experiences and community developments that give the city its strong heritage. Story and photos by Laura Lofgren 10 Living on the PeninsuLa FaLL 2018


Tour attendees listen intently as Erlwein enthusiastically describes Port Angeles’ beginnings.

Tour operator Bruce Erlwein explains the initial history Port Angeles at Smuggler’s Landing Restaurant & Lounge.

B

ety) archives and the Port Angeles city archives, plus the occasional discovery of tales kept alive by families of those who were in Port Angeles in the early 1900s. “We were so fortunate to have had Don with the passion that he had for our local history,” Erlwein said. “He got a lot of first-hand information from people, and those people are gone now. “It’s really challenging to get our history at this point in time ... at least to get the backstory that makes it valuable and interesting. We’re really lucky to have Don who did so much of that research.” Cameras, history books and writing weren’t around much in the city’s early days, so it has been left in a lot of ways to the families of Port Angeles to preserve their history through family logs, journals and, hopefully, photos. “I feel like it’s been really challenging to build that depth,” Erlwein said.

TODAY’S TOURS

Erlwein, who spent 12 years active military and another four years teaching in the military before moving back to Port Angeles, has been giving the afternoon tours to groups of tourists and

Opposite page: Tour attendees view a mural underneath Sound Bikes & Kayaks.

in a ‘boring little town’ and I couldn’t wait to get away. So I was gone for almost 16 years and I came back and I found this history and I thought it was the coolest thing. “That’s kind of what inspired this move. I wanted to stay here. I wanted to be local again.” Today’s tours — some led by Erlwein and some by Stepp — meet at the Port Angeles Visitors Center then head upstairs to Smuggler’s Landing Restaurant & Lounge, with the tour guide sharing old photos of the town from the early 1900s and telling the initial history of Port Angeles. On a recent tour with Erlwein, his enthusiasm for the history of the city comes through during his thorough and thoughtful explanations of events (such as the Sluicing the Hogback), and engineering feats (raising downtown buildings several feet with screw jacks).

PORT ANGELES UNDERGROUND HERITAGE TOURS • Tours start at the Port Angeles Visitors Center, 121 E. Railroad Ave. • May-October tours take place Mondays-Saturdays at 10 a.m. and 2 p.m. • November-April tours take place Mondays-Saturdays at 2 p.m. • Haunted tours will take place in October (schedule to be announced). • Visit portangelesheritagetours.com or email info@portangelesheritage tours.com for more information and to book your tour.

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uried beneath the city of Port Angeles is a rich history. In a short amount of time, the seat of Clallam County has been filled with astounding endeavors that have enriched this community’s strength and endurance. These fascinating memories are shared in an engaging downtown tour thanks to conversations with generations of local families, along with extensive research from history lovers. Tour operator Bruce Erlwein, along with Bob Stepp, owner/operator of the Port Angeles-Victoria Tourist Bureau, continue the operation of the Port Angeles Underground Heritage Tours. These two Port Angeles natives carry on the work of Don Perry, a former Port Angeles deputy mayor and historian who is credited with saving the Port Angeles Underground and its history. He passed away in October 2016. Perry’s research has been the solid foundation of the tour, which has been around for about 20 years. His work included forays into the North Olympic History Center (formerly the Clallam County Historical Soci-

locals for almost three years. But tour guide was not part of his original career plans. “I was a teacher and instructor ... but weapons and tactics don’t necessarily lend themselves well to tourism,” he laughed. “I was just lucky to have the energetic personality to be able to tell the story.” Erlwein stepped into the field easily after a trip with his son, Wyatt. “I was back in town for a couple of weeks in between jobs and I went on the tour with my son’s [Boy] Scout troop,” he said. On his way back to school on the GI Bill and looking for work, Erlwein asked Perry if he needed a part-time guide. Perry was on the verge of retirement, and the timing worked out well. “It’s just been a great opportunity for me,” he said. “I thought it was a really cool aspect of my community. “I was one of those kids who grew up

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Fall 2018 Living on the Peninsula 11


The Underground was created in 1914 to solve a significant and smelly problem. Much of the downtown was on mud flats, and businesses built on piers and docks had privies over Port Angeles Harbor. When the tide was out, all was well. When it came in ... Faced with raw sewage on the beaches and a downtown that flooded with every rainstorm and high tide (about 50 times a year), the Port Angeles City Council in January 1914 voted to raise the downtown street level by more than 10 feet to lift it above the tidal flats. In the endeavor known as the Sluicing of the Hogback, the city used water cannons to move soil from the hill east of downtown to concrete forms lining the streets and raised the streets above the sea-level mudflats. The process — completed June 22, 1944 — left some buildings with a new front door one level above the old one and created the Port Angeles Underground, a series of tunnels underneath the oldest part of downtown. With a group of 12 — tourists mostly from Victoria, plus Florida and Olympia — Erlwein then wrangled the historyseekers back down onto the street to continue the tour. On his tours, Erlwein can alter his stories without losing the facts to meet

Tour guide Bob Stepp explains the fragile structure of old windows underneath the sidewalk at the corner of North Laurel and Front streets in Port Angeles.

the pace of his group. “I can modify and adjust stories if people are determined to move slowly between points,” he said. “I don’t leave anything, but there’s less fanfare around certain things. I have it pretty well set up that it’s a leisurely pace. Nobody should be sweating by the end of it ... except me.” On the tour, visitors can expect four flights of stairs and to cover about four blocks of walking. Among the places guests visit during the walking tour, the basement of Sound Bikes & Kayaks has a colorful background. There are preserved murals of picturesque mountains below the showroom that surround an area that once was home to a fun children’s game. There was even a special area for dad to relax (but you’ll have to take the tour to find out more!). Visiting from Tampa Bay, Florida, Denise and Henry Bissonnette said they were having a great time on the tour. “He’s very passionate,” Denise said of Erlwein. “I had no idea this was all here.” Back outside, visitors will pass the city’s original movie theater as well as the first gas station. The first Underground experience is on North Laurel Street. Groups descend the staircase next to New Day Eatery, where they are met with a boardwalk that leads to a former youth athletic club.

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Along the boardwalk, a street sign has been erected to remember Perry and his work with the city’s Underground. On this original level of the downtown, visitors can look up through the square skylights to the sidewalk above and admire original windows from the early 1900s. In this corridor, tour guides remind groups of the laborious hours that were put into raising the streets — hours that included laying cement with only fivegallon buckets. The final stop on the tour is the Family Shoe Store, Port Angeles’ oldest building. With original flooring and relics from the past, this business provides a look at the community’s logging industry as well as some sordid dealings upstairs. Known as the Essen Rooms, the hotel upstairs was home to a madame and her working girls (about nine of them at a time). On the tour, Erlwein massages the story a bit, depending on the age range in his group. “I don’t get tremendously graphic,” he said. “I feel like a lot’s lost when you get too graphic.” People have good imaginations, he said, so he doesn’t have to give away too much detail. The tour ends with the group visiting several bedrooms, the kitchen and one bathroom and the guide explaining the sometimes humorous dealings of the Essen Rooms and its clients (the huge alarm for the madame to sound when the police showed up is just one highlight). One of the best parts about the tour, Erlwein said, is getting to interact with local businesses. “Our local businesses have been so supportive to keep our history in this area alive. ... We have an incredible team that comes together,” he said. These businesses allow entry into the Underground that is sometimes accessed where store customers can see.

There’s some give-and-take between the tours and businesses: Erlwein recommends shopping there, and customers see the tours come through and become intrigued. “I really feel like we’ve struck an incredible balance between actual accurate history while keeping a certain level of entertainment.”

A HAUNTED PORT ANGELES?

This October, Erlwein will once again give haunted tours of the downtown area for a flat rate of $20 per person. This year’s haunted tours will have the benefit of an extra helping hand. Erlwein is bringing on someone who has more of a “flair for drama” to assist in making the tour extra creepy. Two places specifically are visited during the haunted tours (Erlwein won’t say where in order to keep it all a surprise). At these sites, Erlwein said, there was a paranormal investigation team that came through to analyze the spaces and got some ... results. In 2010, the team of paranormal investigators, along with Perry and a few local residents, set up in the Underground, using sensitive recording equipment and magnetic sensors. One visitor took a photo of Perry in an underground tunnel, and in the initial viewing of the photo on the computer screen, it appeared there were three faces peering out of the grimy antique window of the abandoned storefront behind him. At another stop, Erlwein said, all sorts of weird things started happening. Fully charged batteries started dying all together, and some infrared night vision equipment captured some “pretty bizarre movements.” As for any other random, paranormal activity, Erlwein is stoic. “Anything weird that happens in those basements I write it off to anything I can. ‘Oh no, it was windy that day ... so that’s why that door slammed shut,” he said

An old photo shows Port Angeles in July 1926, about 11 years after the beginning of the city’s project to elevate the downtown streets.

Tour operator Bruce Erlwein explains the mystery and history behind the basement area of Sound Bikes & Kayaks. with a laugh. “I’m not really a ghost guy [but] sometimes I get a weird feeling down there.” Probably the most ghostly experience Erlwein said he has had was when he was on a tour with a family. They were in one of the tunnels when a little girl asked if there were ghosts down there. Erlwein looked at her and humorlessly said, “Yes.” At that same moment, a nearby door slammed shut. “That was probably the most convincing thing I’ve experienced down there just because of the timing.”

A QUICK GHOST STORY

While Erlwein is not forthcoming in telling ghost stories that are narrated on the tour (keeping things mysterious is part of his job), he did share a wellknown tale about Michael’s Seafood and Steakhouse. Known as the “Black Shadow,” this dark entity has been seen on the stairs of the restaurant and other various spaces of the main dining area. In the hallway connecting the bar and main dining room to the secondary dining room and restrooms, there have been

reports of voices and shadowy figures. But don’t let this tale ruin your meal. These things tend to happen late at night when the restaurant is closing.

A DYNAMIC HISTORY

Port Angeles’ young history is full of remarkable accomplishments by those who saw it fit to grow and expand her streets. And its history runs parallel with the other towns all across the North Olympic Peninsula Coast. These tours are just a taste of what life was like back in the earliest days of our communities. “It’s a very dynamic history,” Erlwein said. “It’s not old history, but the stuff that has happened here it’s incredible.” “I’m honored that as a son of Port Angeles, I can go away for so long and come back and ... I get to carry this message to tourists. I get to help represent our town to people from all over the world. “It’s one of those incredible parts of our community that needs to be preserved. It needs to survive.”  Laura Lofgren is a special sections editor at Peninsula Daily News. Reach her at llofgren@peninsuladailynews.com.

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OUTDOOR RECREATION

2 DAYS ... 130 MILES ... 3 HAPPY RIDERS

Two bicyclists (with the third behind the camera) traverse the Olympic Discovery Trail via the ever-impressive Johnson Creek Trestle. photo by Michael Dashiell

A two-wheeled adventure from the Salish Sea to the Pacific Ocean By Michael Dashiell Let me start by saying that writing this was probably a bad idea from the get-go. Being the kind of person who needs a little motivation to get his exercise I, like a person who does his grocery shopping while hungry, tend to have eyes bigger than my stomach. And so it was one fine spring day when I casually mentioned to a friend how interesting it would be to take some road bikes from one end of the North Olympic Peninsula to the other, to “get out” and “see our fine Peninsula in all its splendor.” … And try to not die while doing it. One small catch: I hadn’t been on a road bike for roughly three decades. And I didn’t own a bike at the time. And I had little bike-specific conditioning. Would that be a problem? Surely not! And so it came to pass that a trio of friends — Dave Toman, Stu Marcy and myself — made a pact that in early August, we’d try our legs, so to speak, at what’s commonly referred to at the Port-to-Push trek, riding (about) 130 miles over two days (hey, we weren’t crazy enough to do it in one) from Port Townsend to La Push. My non-cycling friends basically said, “Wow, that’s crazy.” My cycling friends said, “So, 130 miles over two days … what’s the big deal?” And then I told them how little I had biked in the past, oh, lifetime. “Oh, OK. Hmm. Yeah, that’s crazy,” they said.

PRE-TRIP PLANNING

Using the much-traveled Toman as our trip guru, we mapped out a Port-to-Push plan: Use the Olympic Discovery Trail

14 Living on the Peninsula Fall 2018

Dave Toman, Stu Marcy and Michael Dashiell are ready to begin their Port-to-Push adventure. submitted photo (ODT) (and Larry Scott Memorial Trail in the beginning) as much as possible from point to point, with some requisite miles on our highways.

The plan came with stops to “refuel” at key eateries, including the Blue Moose Cafe in Port Townsend, Black Bear Diner in Sequim and Hungry Bear Cafe near

Beaver. Basically, if a large animal is selling food, we were eating it. We also had to choose a path to get around Lake Crescent. That meant making our way on the Spruce Railroad Trail with its slim, one-track, rocky routes or taking the Olympic Adventure Trail, a rolling path of forest road that caters better to mountain bikes. With one of our crew (Marcy) on a recumbent and me on a true road bike, we chose the Spruce Railroad Trail. We also made a key decision to not add too many miles going around some tight spots, but that meant taking U.S. Highway 20, a 6-mile stretch with precariously little-to-no-shoulder and some major uphills and downhills before linking up to U.S. Highway 101 and the western boundary of the ODT. We also made a decision to use a support crew to give us rides to/from our respective homes at the beginning, Day 1 end, Day 2 start and at the end, so we wouldn’t need to pack tents and sleeping bags and whatnot. Then, the equipment. I gleaned as much advice as I could on the right bike to buy within my price range and wound up with a beaut from Nate at Sequim Bike Works, who transformed a 1980sera Cannondale racing bike into something even I could ride. Several local bike shops helped me stock up on the accessories — tubes, pump, tire levers, lights, mirror, etc. — that I’d need (and hopefully not need) during out excursion. Then, the training. My meager athletic background is predominantly in volleyball and road/trail running, which helped a little in terms of training. Most of my muscles adjusted after a few rides, and I found a similarities between running and cycling.


DAY 1: PT TO PA

LOCAL PRODUCE

DAY 2: PA TO LA PUSH

Our second day started much like the first, with a light rain greeting us but beautiful, smoothly-paved paths heading west out of Port Angeles and toward the Pacific. With little bike traffic on this early

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morning weekday, we had plenty of time to gab about the previous day’s events and what lay ahead while enjoying the lush greenery in the Dry Creek region. All of that stopped, really, when we came to the Elwha River Bridge. We had to pause and gaze at the majesty of the mighty Elwha. The next section brought us along Elwha River Road to a rather unpleasant section along Highway 112; with a number of heavy trucks passing by, we quick-as-we-could raced to the Joyce General Store for a java-infused pick-meup and restroom break. From there it was a short jaunt to Joyce-Piedmont Road, a tortuous bit of roadway that had us wondering whether we truly wanted to ever see a bike or roadway or each other ever again, before it spilled rather quickly down to the edges of Lake Crescent and the Spruce Railroad Trail. This particular trail I’ve written about many times, and if you’ve never trekked this part of the ODT, by all means go. After a bit of broken rock, travelers come upon the McPhee Tunnel, a restored and covered pathway from the Peninsula’s logging days. We carefully followed each other’s blinking lights through the tunnel and headed west.

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to Port Angeles — in a training session a few weeks prior, this section felt like a blur. Now, with Toman in the lead calling out car traffic at various ODT-roadway intersections, we breezed through Sequim’s streets, cruised on the decadent Railroad Bridge and marveled at the greenery of Sequim’s farmlands near Robin Hill County Park and Siebert Creek. Steeling ourselves for what we knew was to come, we pushed and pulled our way up a couple of rather imposing hills, including the dreaded Bagley Creek hill, before rolling onto the Morse Creek Trestle toward Port Angeles. There, a light breeze and smooth goings gave us a bit of respite before our final pull into the Port Angeles waterfront. As if on cue, an eagle plunged into the Strait’s waters and pulled out his lunch as the sun broke through the clouds. Since we didn’t want to start Day 2 going uphill, we capped the first day with a short, lurching ride up the aptly-named West Hill Street to Crown Park, where we called it a day.

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It all started with a tasty breakfast early on a Wednesday at Port Townsend’s Blue Moose Cafe at the Port Townsend Boatyard. After polishing off our meals, we cycled off in a light sprinkling of rain along the Larry Scott Memorial Trail section of the ODT — my first ride here. And what a trail it is: well-groomed dirt and packed gravel paths under a canopy of evergreens that meander to and fro, with few hills to speak of. Immediately we were joined by a pack of riders doing something like a guided, six-day biking/camping trek around the Peninsula with their next stop set for the Seabeck area. We wished them well and waved them on. It wasn’t long until we came to Four Corners Road and our Highway 20 gauntlet. With Marcy’s three-wheeler in the lead and a brightly-colored Toman anchoring the trio, we made our way up the first hill. Just 30 seconds in, a massive freight truck hurtled by, a harbinger of what lay ahead, and pretty well woke up all of us.

The next 4 miles or so were brutal, with cars and trucks whizzing past at 50-plus miles per hour, a chilling spray covering our sides and faces, uphill after uphill. By the time we reached that stretch’s apex, we were more than happy to race downhill toward Highway 101. There, at the interchange, we caught our breath and gave thanks to providence for our safety. From there, a short jaunt put us on dedicated trail around Discovery Bay and onto Gardiner roads. There, despite having to ride with car traffic, it felt as if we could breathe once more. Crossing into Clallam County at the Diamond Point trailhead, we felt we were on familiar grounds. One of my favorite parts of the ODT, this section avoids the rush of 101 with a trek through farmland and the Jamestown S’Klallam tribal campus. A section I’d use for my marathon training, it’s a long, slow somewhat uphill path toward Sequim proper, highlighted by the newer bridge at Sequim Bay State Park and, as we pulled into town, the resplendent Johnson Creek Trestle. With my legs a little shell-shocked, I managed to pull myself up to a table with our crew at Black Bear Diner for some sustenance. The grub and the warmth did us good. All too soon, we were back on the road. Since we’d done this section — Sequim

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What I found is that hardest part of getting prepared was finding the time to train and getting used to sitting on a lessthan-comfortable seat for hours at a time. We’d all be on our seats for quite a while over those two days.

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The single-track trail along the majestic Lake Crescent proved to be a challenge for at least two of us. My rail-thin tires didn’t do well on the broken gravel and roots, but I managed not to plunge off the path and a dozen feet into the lake, barely. Marcy managed to get his recumbent for perhaps a mile or so before striking a rock and getting a flat — our first casualty. That’s when he noticed one of his tires with an odd yellow stripe down the middle. As it turned out, Marcy’s right front wheel was coming apart and while he had replacement tubes, a bad tire would spell doom. (He managed to finish the day’s ride, but the tire barely did.) Marcy managed a quick tube replacement and after a short portage — the recumbent was a bit too wide for some of the Spruce Railroad Trail’s sections — and a very long stretch of paved trail paralleling Camp David Junior Road, we were well on our way to the West End. One of our favorite stretches of ODT came after Lake Crescent, a smooth patch of ODT through ferns and fir we weren’t expecting. We wanted the trail to feel like that for hours. But since we wanted to be sure we didn’t have to backtrack and there were only a couple of trailheads before our next “refueling” stop, we jumped onto Highway 101. And that, cycling friends, is rather unpleasant. We were back to freight trucks and cars racing past, this time at upward of 70 miles per hour, with a 3-foot shoulder (at best) and a light rain wetting us down. We pulled into the Hungry Bear and quickly wolfed down lunch. Again, how-

Stu Marcy and Dave Toman work on flat No. 3. photo by Michael Dashiell

ever, if felt all too soon that we were back on the highway. The worst parts were the bridges; with literally no shoulder, we’d have to pause, then madly race our three bikes across before diving back to the shoulder. Soon after, I got my first flat — our second casualty. Fortunately I had some experts, so my first flat change went exceedingly well. The culprit: what looked like a staple on steroids had latched onto my wheel. We eventually pulled up to the turnoff for La Push Road, just short of the Vampireville, and paused to consider the moment. Legs burning, a bit cold and definitely ready to move on, we grabbed quick selfies and began our final leg. The mileage, about 120 of it, caught up with me, and I struggled to traverse the last few hills, counting off the miles to go with each mile sign. Toman caught his flat on this section — casualty number three — so we each had a chance to change tubes. The last merciful mile-and-a-half or so was a smooth, smooth ride down toward the Pacific. None of us seemed to mind the sprinkling of rain or the aching bones. We were simply glad it was over. Not long after, our support crew (thanks Ione and Kate!) arrived, there to share a meal, kick some First Beach sand and eventually make our way home. In all, it was two days with three flats, 130-plus miles and definitely some lifelong memories.  Michael Dashiell is the editor of the Sequim Gazette. Reach him at mdashiell@ sequimgazette.com.

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MEET the PSYCHICS

Women practice intuitive arts on the Peninsula By Diane Urbani de la Paz The three women could be sisters, though they’ve never met. World travelers, spirit guides, psychics: They’re all of these. Each speaks of communicating with the dead, and one doesn’t mind calling herself a witch. Hold on, now. Another trait held in common is their down-toearthiness. “With me, you’re not going to hear a lot of fluff stuff. My work is much more grounded — on the pavement,” said Kristine Rose-Walsh, a spiritual life coach, intuitive and teacher based in Sequim.

Sarah Nash, co-owner of the Red Dragonfly gallery in Port Townsend, has what she calls a “cosmic cabana” there. She gives psychic readings and, in the case of this reporter, a “psychic sip” peppered with cuss words. Nearby at Phoenix Rising, the Water Street shop and space for intuitive practitioners, Lacey Dawn Jackson of Olympia comes in for two straight days of readings each month. The secret to her inner stamina? “If I don’t bring my water, I have a rough day,” said Jackson, 55, who sips her way through a gallon at a stretch. These are people not so unlike the rest of us. Each has reached a point in life where she is living her passion.

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To give clients a visual focus, Sarah Nash uses the Osho Zen tarot deck. photo by Diane Urbani de la Paz MASSAGE, ANGELS, ABUNDANCE

“I had gone through a lot of dysfunctional relationships. When women come to me for different issues, I’ve been there. I totally relate.” — Lacey Dawn Jackson, author, psychic, health coach

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When Jackson walks into the room, she flashes a smile, looks you in the eye and sits down as if she’s known you since girlhood. A massage therapist, Jackson has long felt in touch with angels, spirits and those who have passed beyond the tangible realm. She has communicated with the dead, she believes, since she was a child. Jackson was an intermediary between the spirit and material worlds — a medium — “before I could articulate what it was.” For a long time, she fought her psychic abilities. Then, in her early 40s, she began studying angel therapy, mediumship and the body-mind-spirit connection. “I read the Bible on my own, and different spiritual texts,” she added. An additional type of training has helped her on this path. “I had gone through a lot of dysfunctional relationships. When women come to me for different issues, I’ve been there. I totally relate.” At first, she would simply sit with a client, tune in and give information. It wasn’t until later that Jackson began using angel cards and oracle cards, working on a psychic hotline and traveling to Port Townsend and to Portland, Oregon, to give readings. “She helps you communicate with your deceased loved ones, animals and your future self,” Jackson’s brochure noted. While individual readings cost $80 per hour or $40 per half-hour at Phoenix Rising, she also offers a six-month

intuitive wellness program. Topics covered range from chakras, auras and grounding to astral travel, past lives and “extreme self-care.” A self-described “abundance babe,” Jackson has written a memoir, “Journey of the Groovy Goddess: Finding My Authentic Self.” Her website, LaceyDawn Jackson.com, shows other titles coming this year, including “When My Boyfriend Kicked Me Out of the Van: Relationship Tips for Everyday Life.” “I believe we’re all intuitive,” Jackson said. For her, “it’s a matter of specializing.” She’s the one who believes herself to be a witch — “but you can take me places, and I’m not going to get all weird on you,” she said dryly. Massage therapy, psychic communication, mediumship: all healing arts, Jackson said. Her desire is to help her clients identify their passions: the bright energy that helps one live a more satisfied life.

THE INNER RADIO

Kristine Rose-Walsh is an accountant. She spent many years working for airlines and airports. At the same time, she thirsted for knowledge of the natural world, plant medicine, yoga and meditation. In 1999, she and her husband left her home state of California and came to Sequim, where a new life opened up. “I decided it was time to get into everything I was into,” Rose-Walsh, 62, recalled. She continued her study of herbal medicine, hands-on healing and spirituality — and summoned her courage for the next step. “I had to be brave to put a shingle out to do my intuitive work,” she said. But Rose-Walsh found her clientele at Phoenix Rising; she’d give eight to 10 readings a day on summer weekends. That continued for seven years. Then she brought the business to her home office, where she sees clients three to five times per week. Most come from referrals while a few find her online at IntegratedEnergy Medicine.com. Yes, skeptics abound. Rose-Walsh doesn’t worry. She focuses on serving her clients. Human intuition and psychic ability, she says, are a bit like tuning into a radio channel. “I’m reading a frequency you can’t see. I have a ‘dial’ inside of me where I can do that. We all do; it takes practice,” to get a clear signal.


Counterclockwise from above: Kristine Rose-Walsh is an intuitive reader and spiritual guide based in Sequim. Sarah Nash is co-owner of the Red Dragonfly, a gallery in Port Townsend’s Undertown. Lacey Dawn Jackson comes to downtown Port Townsend’s Phoenix Rising shop for two days of psychic readings each month. photos by Diane Urbani de la Paz Rose-Walsh has developed this ability since childhood. Her mother, June Rose, never treated intuition like it was anything strange. “My mom was a deep meditator,” since the 1960s, she said. Rose-Walsh is as well; Mom, now 91, has come to live with her. Rose-Walsh’s fee for a reading starts at $80 per hour. Many come to her in pain from the loss of a loved one and want to know if the one who has passed has found peace. “Most of the time, it’s pure love flowing from the deceased person,” in the wake of release from the mortal world. As an intuitive reader, “I’m doing my soul’s purpose … serving the light,” seeking to relieve suffering.

‘NOT A FORTUNE TELLER’

When Sarah Nash was a girl, she lost the hearing in her right ear. Surgery to remove a tumor behind the ear nearly caused her death. She believes that in the years since, she’s gained a transcendent, psychic sense. At the Red Dragonfly and in her home sanctuary, she gives readings, communicates with the dead and discusses the White Light Express, an interfaith group described on Nash’s site, Nahmaste.com. “I am not a fortune teller,” said Nash, 53. Instead, she discusses the past and present — and reminds her clients of their power to shape the future. Clearly that’s what Nash herself has done. She

studied adolescent psychology at the University of California at Los Angeles, interned at Challenger Memorial Youth Center in Lancaster, California, and then became disillusioned with that work. She later became a broker for Bank of America, working in Cleveland. Two summers ago, Nash and her husband opened the Red Dragonfly in a snug space inside the Undertown, a tunnel at the bottom of a staircase from Port Townsend’s Taylor Street. People drop in for psychic readings or make appointments; 20-minute “psychic sips” are $20, while a full session costs $99, whether it lasts 90 minutes or three hours. Nash sees a lot of grief. Clients come to her following a death, carrying, as she says, “a 12-pound brick in the heart.” Others are considering a major project and wondering if it’s the right thing at the right time. As a spiritual counselor with a pragmatic streak, she urges her people to set an intention, an affirmation of what they want in life. She listens. She offers practical advice, “keeping it as real as possible,” while riding the energetic flow of the universe. There’s nothing woo-woo about this flow, Nash adds. We just haven’t figured out how to explain it yet. “My goal,” she said, “is to ease the heart and soul of the person. It’s a tremendous responsibility to sit with someone who has their heart open.” 

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Fishing boats are seen in the 1950s near James Island at La Push at sunset. Forks Forum archive photo

Legends, lore and true stories from the forest and the sea W

By Christi Baron

ith hundreds of thousands of acres of uninhabited forestland, rugged coast and untamed ocean just off shore, the West End is a place where a person could easily disappear. A man could come here to hide his identity; a man could be left on a lonely highway; fishermen could be lost to the sea; the unexplained light in the sky could remain unexplained; and unknown creatures could be lurking in the forest. While some tales are regarded with skepticism and others as truth, one thing is for certain: the West End harbors many stories of poor, ill-fated souls.

DEATH BY IMPOSTER

In October 1937, Linwood Sproul owned a tourist camp at Mora near the mouth of the Dickey River. The 58-year-old Sproul had recently hired a WWI veteran named Allen Sears to do some work for him. It would end up being a fatal mistake. Supposedly, Sears borrowed Sproul’s gun to kill a seal for cooking oil for another neighbor. On Friday, Oct. 4, when Sears returned with the gun and was cleaning it, Sears claimed the loaded gun accidently went off, killing its owner, Sproul. Even though law enforcement resources at the time were limited, local authorities thought the story did not add up.

20 Living on the Peninsula Fall 2018

Certain the shooting was no accident, they offered Sears a deal if he told the truth and admitted his guilt. In doing so, it is speculated that he might have been taking the blame for a women who also could have been implicated in Sproul’s death. To possibly protect this woman, did Sears take the fall? Or was there other hankypanky going on? It also was soon discovered that Allen Sears was possibly really named Ralph Carson. When Sears had deserted the Army, he took the name and identity of a friend who died in the war. His trial lasted four days, and Carson — alias Allen Sears — was found guilty by a jury of 10 men and two women and sentenced to death. The 54-year-old Carson was the first Clallam County resident to be executed by the state on Dec. 4, 1939. Was it really Allen Sears aka Ralph Carson who killed Sproul? The truth has been lost to time.

MYSTERIOUS DEATH — OR MURDER?

The fog hung low shrouding U.S. Highway 101 on June 2, 1948. As two travelers passed the Sappho Junction at around 1:30 a.m., they were surprised to see an animal lying in the road. Deciding to drive over it, they were even more surprised to see it was no animal but a man. They had discovered the body of 22-year-old Kelsey “Jack” C. Tanner, alias Jack Gale.


The Sappho Junction as it appeared about the time someone dumped Jack Tanner’s body very near here. Boyd Rupp photo The sheriff and state patrol arrived at around 2 a.m., and although the body was still warm, the victim had suffered so many injuries he was beyond help. An autopsy later ruled out hit and run. Whatever the motive for Tanner’s murder, it did not seem to be robbery. The money from a check he had cashed in Forks earlier in the day was still on the victim, and a 22-caliber pistol was tucked in his belt. Did the answer to his demise lie in his lifestyle? He had only been in the community a couple of weeks; had he made enemies? The question remains: who or what killed Jack Tanner?

MISSING WHEN FISHING

The year 1952 was not a good year for fishermen. Not because the fishing was bad, but because people were going fishing and never coming home again. A man with the last name Dill had been a resident of the West End for a number of years and had recently moved to Port Angeles. On a Sunday morning in May 1952, Tyler Hobucket spotted Dill’s fishing boat, the Terrine, off La Push. It was running in circles. George R. Lewis, owner of the troller Destiny, had last spoken with Dill on Friday via his ship radio. At the time, Dill was north of Grays Harbor and he had told Lewis he was heading for La Push. But now it was Sunday morning, and something was wrong. Hobucket attempted to reach Dill on the radio and received no answer. James Gorham of Forks also was in the area. He, too, tried to raise Dill on the radio and received nothing. Hobucket and Gorham finally pulled up along side the Terrine, and Hobucket stayed with the vessel as Gorham went to La Push to get the Coast Guard to help. When the Coast Guard boarded the Terrine, there was no sign of Dill. A half-finished cup of still-warm coffee was sitting in the cabin. The boat was set on auto pilot. The fish hatch was open, and salmon were in the hold. Had Dill fallen overboard? Gorham assisted the Coast Guard towing the Terrine to La Push. It was discovered that a float was missing from the Terrine, and it was thought Dill had maybe made it to shore. Coast Guard planes and boats searched for days with no sign of Dill.

What unknown creatures may be lurking in the mossy expanse of our Peninsula forestlands? Boyd Rupp photo On June 3, 1952, Lewis made a call from his trolling boat, the Destiny, that he was taking on water, just off Westport.

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Many other boats in the area, along with the Grays Harbor Coast Guard, heard Lewis’ radio messages. When rescuers finally made it to the Destiny, it was submerged to the tips of the two trolling poles, and there was no sign of Lewis. The boat was towed to shore and then taken to Port Angeles. Examination of the boat showed that it had most likely struck a submerged object and then sank slowly. The mostly empty gas tank helped keep the boat from sinking completely. Although Lewis was known to have been wearing a life jacket, there was no sign of him in the area. Ironically, Lewis was the last person to talk to Dill, by ship’s radio, before Dill disappeared off his 37-foot trolling boat, the Terrine, on May 17, 1952. In July 1952, a major Coast Guard air and sea search was launched for a 34-year-old commercial fisherman named Leslie Gossage. Joining in the search were other commercial fishermen. Gossage had left La Push on the morning of July 24 to go fishing off Destruction Island. Two fishermen — J.E. O’Neil and Floyd Thornton — had both reported seeing Gossage the day he left La Push, and several others had seen him near

Linwood Cornelius Sproul was born in Bristol, Maine, in 1879. By 1930, he had made his way to the West End, living in Mora. Goss Family photo

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Destruction Island. Heavy fog hindered the search by plane, but even when they finally got in the air, not a single sign of Gossage’s boat was found that would lead to a conclusion of what might have happened to the fisherman. The last person to talk to Gossage was James Gorham, the man who helped bring in Dill’s boat, the Terrine. Gossage’s boat was a 32-foot troller. In October 1952, Gossage’s family gathered at the beach and had a memorial ceremony.


Heavy fog hindered the search by plane, but even when they finally got in the air, not a single sign of Gossage’s boat was found that would lead to a conclusion of what might have happened to the fisherman. The weekend of April 2, 1966, was the town of Forks’ second close encounter of the first kind. At around 2 p.m. that Saturday, a young boy said he spotted a UFO to the east of town. At that time, law enforcement saw nothing. But on Sunday evening, the town marshal, deputy sheriff and several other adults watched the craft for about half an hour. Terry and Viola Hinchen also reported seeing something very unusual that weekend. The Hinchens had been previously observing Sputnik, the first artificial Earth satellite. But this was most definitely not Sputnik. This craft made some amazing turns, and the witnesses said “it even glittered.” Did the Forks locals see a real UFO? It’s difficult to doubt with so many eye-witness accounts.

FOREST CREATURE

A few years ago, a Forks resident — who wishes to remain anonymous — was living near Brinnon. Having worked the late shift, it was about 3 a.m. when she was driving home “I came around one of the corners and sitting in my lane of traffic was a bear-like creature with long spiky grayish-colored hair,” she recalled. “It was hunkered over and turned its face towards me as I approached. “It sort of looked like a bear but had a flatter face, more like a koala bear or sloth, and its hair was long. It also had short arms. “I’m not sure if it was hurt; I didn’t see any blood. But to me when it looked my way, it seemed to look sad, but that may or may not have been. “I had to swing wide and cross into the other lane to

avoid hitting it. The body style was chubby like a bear but the face was different than any bear I have ever seen around here. I also thought the color was odd unless somehow it looked gray from my headlights shining on it. “It freaked me out.” Later when telling a co-worker about the strange event, one of them commented that there have been other weird creatures reported by Quilcene. A truck driver once reported seeing a kangaroo. It turned out to be a coyote that, because of and injury or no front legs, had learned to hop on its hind feet. These are just a few mysterious tales in this world, but other bigger mysteries still remain, and no doubt many more have yet to come.  Christi Baron is the editor of the Forks Forum. Reach her at cbaron@forksforum.com.

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THE DAYTRIPPER

LAKE QUINAULT LODGE Year-round resort a remote, but posh, weekend retreat Story and photos by Laura Lofgren There’s nothing better than exploring a new area close enough to home; a place where you can go to relax and get away from it all. Lake Quinault Lodge is just the ticket for those looking for a weekend getaway. While it might not be a day-trip for most, per se, it can be your home away from home if only for a few days. Open all year, Lake Quinault Lodge is a little over an hour away from Forks. On your way there, make sure to stop at Ruby Beach or any of the other beach access points on U.S. Highway 101 to hear the roaring Pacific and see behemoth seastacks. Pass through charming Amanda Park before your turn-off to the lodge. During a recent stay in late July, blue hydrangeas peppered the roadside, the lakeside and everywhere in between, making for an amazing welcome to the lake shore. My husband and I were treated to a well-appointed lake-view room in the main lodge with a king bed and a full bathroom — just perfect for our first stop on our two-week honeymoon down the coast of Washington, Oregon and California. Other room options include fireplace rooms, lakeside rooms or boathouse rooms, all located outside of the main lodge.

24 Living on the Peninsula Fall 2018

If you have ever been to Lake Crescent Lodge, Quinault will feel quite similar. This grand and rustic lodge built in 1926 welcomes guests with warmth and hospitality. In the main area, there is a large fireplace that is crackling with heat even in the summer, as the evenings cool quite a bit next to the lake. With plenty of seating, here is a good place to sit and relax before moving on to the day’s activities.

ACTIVITIES

Depending on your plans for your stay at Lake Quinault — pure relaxation or outdoor recreation — the staff has you covered. The historic Roosevelt Dining Room offers exquisite meal choices for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Just make sure to check the eatery’s hours and make reservations, especially for dinner. (A back-up is the nearby Salmon House Restaurant, which we ended up at our first night, not realizing reservations are a really good idea!) In the fall of 1937, President Franklin D. Roosevelt visited Lake Quinault Lodge during a fact-finding trip and enjoyed lunch in the later-named Roosevelt Dining Room. Nine months later, Roosevelt signed a bill creating Olympic National Park. The dining room offers lovely views of the lake, along with a wide array of birds to watch, including hummingbirds that come right up to the window as you dine

The best view of the Lake Quinault Lodge is looking up at it from the large lawn. thanks to well-placed feeders. If you’re looking for a pre-dinner drink, there is a bar just outside the Roosevelt Dining Room that offers well drinks, wine and beer. Take your beverage out to the deck, grab a seat and watch kids and adults run across the expansive lawn before settling on the calm, blue-gray lake. For those really looking to relax, the lodge offers a pool, sauna and game room, open from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily. Anyone up for a little more adventure can rent a kayak, canoe or stand-up paddleboard (SUP) to take out on the lake, weather permitting. These rentals are available through September. We tried SUPing for the first time on Lake Quinault. While intimidating at first, with the tiniest of waves splashing over the board, we found our balance on the vessels and were able to cruise around the lake for a good hour before calling it quits for dinner at the Roosevelt. Lake tours are available throughout the day for anyone wishing to explore the water with a tour guide, though they stop running early in September. Chances are you’ll see bald eagles and osprey during these boat rides, as well as river otters. Tours offered are the Daybreak tour, the Afternoon tour and the Sunset tour. Adults are $30, kids are $20 and children 2 and younger on a parent’s lap are free.


All tours are weather permitting. Hiking is one activity that isn’t restricted to anyone’s schedule but your own. The forests around Lake Quinault Lodge offer hikes from short and leisurely to long and enlivening. There are more than 15 well-maintained trails to explore, each offering a different perspective on the diverse ecosystem that is a temperate rain forest. For an easy mid-morning hike, a walk along the Lakeshore Trail to Willaby Campground gives you amazing views of the lake, along with more hydrangeas and plenty of other local plant life. If you’re looking to extend your hike and get “Quinault in a nutshell,” take the Rain Forest Nature Trail, which passes by Willaby Creek. The .5-mile loop has interpretive signs along the route, so you can become knowledgeable about local plants, wildlife and the ecosystem as a whole. Once you’ve taken photos next to the moss-covered trees and gawked at the refreshing waterfalls, make your way back to the lodge for a light lunch. Other trails include a short but steep walk on the World’s Largest Western Red Cedar Trail. With deep steps constructed in the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corps, this trail in winter can acquire stream-like characteristics, so be prepared! There also is a trail that leads to the World’s Largest Sitka Spruce, as determined by the American Forestry Association. It also can be accessed from a gravel pull-off just past the Rain Forest Resort Village, about a mile past the Lake Quinault Lodge. For anyone who wants a comprehensive tour of the Quinault Rainforest, the lodge offers a four-hour tour in a “tour coach.” A guide explains the history of the area, including the Quinault Indian Nation, early expeditions that revealed the lake and the flora and fauna native to the rain forest. The cost is $40 for adults, $25 for children and free for kids 2 and younger on a parent’s lap, though given the length of the tour, it might not be suitable for infants and very young children.

OTHER ACCOMMODATIONS

If staying at the lodge isn’t for you, the Lake Quinault area has several camping options, all located on the south side of the lake. The North Forks Campground has nine sites, a pit toilet and no running water. Graves Creek Campground has 30 sites, summer restrooms and no potable water.

Weather permitting, stand-up paddleboard rentals are available through September. The rest of the year, it has access to a vault toilet. The lakefront Willaby Creek Campground has 21 sites and flush toilets, but it is closed in the winter. There are also plenty of vacation home rentals for those looking to stay longer than a day or two in the Quinault area. While visiting Lake Quinault, be sure to take a drive up past the lodge to see the wonderful farmlands of those who live nearby. Who knows? Maybe you’ll fall in love with the incredibly friendly people, the fresh air, the activities and the wildlife and want to make it a permanent vacation spot for years to come. For more information about Lake Quinault Lodge or to make reservations, visit olympicnationalparks.com.  Laura Lofgren is a special sections editor at Peninsula Daily News. Reach her at llofgren@ peninsuladailynews.com.

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A PINCH OF PENINSULA

DON’T BE SHELLFISH!

Sequim’s Salty Girls say clam chowder recipe meant to be shared Editor’s note: The following has been submitted by the owners of Salty Girls Sequim Seafood Co., Lavon Gomes and Tracie Millett.

Well, to be honest, this wasn’t on our radar until the opportunity presented itself. We’ve been running Sunset Marine Resort — ­ a property on East Sequim Bay with eight vacation rentals — for 18 years and also have been operating a kayak and boat rental for the last five years at John Wayne Marina. We wanted to do something different, so we bought a charter boat to offer scenic tours and trips out to the lighthouse (at the New DungeSalty Girls Sequim Seafood Co. owners and life ness Light Station). partners Lavon Gomes, left, and Tracie Millett. This is how it all started. photo by Erin Hawkins In order to run the charter, we needed to be captains. Once we passed all our exams, we went to the Peninsula Taproom in Sequim to celebrate and at the time, the middle of the building was offered for rent. We thought, “wouldn’t it be great if there were an oyster bar next door?” We talked ourselves into and out of the idea for three weeks before signing the lease in October 2017. Fortunately, the winter gave us time to design, draw, order, plan, design some more, refine and set up. We went from originally planning a small space to what we have now: a dedicated kitchen and full bar. It changed the scope of what we originally planned, but we’re very happy with how it all turned out. Our final design includes a pass through window to the Taproom so people can order from us while trying out the brews next door. We’re fortunate to work closely with Jamestown Seafood right here in Sequim Bay. They’ve been great and people have loved learning about and enjoying their oyster selection. We also offer steamed clams from our bay. With so many oyster farms nearby — like Hama Hama and Taylor Shellfish — it’s great to be able to offer a local, fresh selection. Our mission has been to stay as local as possible with everything we offer. We use Pane d’Amore bread, cheese from Tillamook, Oregon, and Getting Cultured hot sauce made right here in Sequim. This locally made idea applies to our bar, as well, with beer from Washington and Oregon breweries, kombucha from Iggy’s Alive & Cultured on Bainbridge Island, wine from Wind Rose Cellars in Sequim and liquor from Bainbridge Island and The Hardware Distillery in Hoodsport. We also carry Bedford Sodas from Port Angeles and DRY Soda from Seattle.

28 Living on the Peninsula Fall 2018

A bowl of Salty Girls’ clam chowder is ready to be served to a lucky customer. photo courtesy of Salty Girls Sequim Seafood Co. Salty Girls Clam Chowder

Note: This recipe is meant for a 12-gallon kettle. To cut it down to a gallon, the recipe can be reduced by a factor of 12. Much less chopping! Ingredients: 1-2 cups bacon grease 4 pounds bacon 4 cups butter 6 cups leeks 28 cups onions 12 cups celery 1 cup garlic 1 gallon broth (we use chicken) 1 gallon clam juice 16 quarts potatoes 2.5 tablespoons thyme 2.5 tablespoons white pepper 5 tablespoons salt 5 cups flour 2 gallons half-and-half 4 cans clams 16 bay leaves Rough directions: Cut bacon into small pieces and cook. Remove bacon, leaving bacon grease in kettle. Add butter to kettle and melt. Add diced onion, leeks and celery to kettle and cook for approximately 15 minutes on medium high heat. Add garlic and cook for an additional minute. Add broth (with clam juice) to kettle. Add diced potatoes to kettle. Add thyme, white pepper and salt.

Stir to mix everything together. Allow to simmer on medium high until potatoes are soft enough to easily put fork through. In a separate bowl, mix the flour with half-and-half to make a rue. The consistency should be relatively thin enough to barely pour. Slowly add rue to kettle while stirring. Allow to simmer for a minute or so, checking thickness. (For those who like thick chowder, more rue may be added.) Add remaining half-and-half, and stir. Allow enough time for chowder to heat back up after adding the half-n-half. It is best to make this chowder a day prior to serving, as it allows time for the thyme to mellow and the flavors to blend. The key to this recipe is to be sure that chopped potatoes are all the same size, chopped onions are same size, chopped leeks same size and so on. 

Fun fact: The bacon is cooked for salads and sandwiches, and the grease is retained for use in the chowder. With 12 gallons cooking, it adds richness.


THE LIVING END

Spirit, spirits & place By Rev. Pam Douglas-Smith The Olympic Peninsula is a magnificent primordial landscape enspirited with ancient subtle energies and modern vibrant forces. From the soaring height of the old growth forests to the historic architecture of Victorian seaports to the beautiful shorelines of sand and rock, the spirit of place resounds with life seen and unseen. One need only stroll along the misty Pacific beaches or hike into the green depths of the Hoh Rain Forest where the First Peoples trod to feel the depth and breadth of how long humankind has shared this sacred landscape amid an infinite variety of nature’s expressions. For most of us, a favorite childhood memory involves camping out in the depth of the woods — sitting around a fireside, listening to the crackling of the wood as it burns, seeing the sway of trees above our heads as they move to an unseen breeze, wondering how close those distant animal sounds might come during the night, and sharing scary stories of ghostly hauntings where each one seeks to outspook the others. How we love to wonder about what unseen realms abide with us. How we love the mystery of spirits. William Shakespeare’s works are full of references to hauntings and other strange mysteries. This summer, Key Cities Players’ Shakespeare in the Park at Port Townsend’s Chetzemoka Park presented “Hamlet.” It contains a famous passage that reminds us to be open to possibilities: There are more things in heaven and earth, Horatio, Than are dreamt of in your philosophy.

This is a place of ancient dwellings with generations of people living in its embrace. We have lived our lives here, built homes, prospered and experienced loss and watched the flow of our ever-evolving community. Ghostly stories engage us all in the unending flow of history as we seek to understand our place in its midst. This captures our imagination and is what brought the Ghost Hunters television show to Manresa Castle in Port Townsend, one of the area’s most widely known site of hauntings. The results spooked even the reporters who filmed occurences they couldn’t explain with outer logic. Hauntings invite us to see beyond the outer forms of buildings into the inner energies of life. Isn’t life more interesting when new possibilities of discovery abound? The Olympic Peninsula, as the rest of the world, is filled with local lore of ghostly sightings. The current world is always enfilled with echoes of its prior inhabitants both welcomed and unwelcomed. It can cause us to tremble and invoke the long-established Scottish prayer: From ghoulies and ghosties And long-leggedy beasties And things that go bump in the night, Good Lord, deliver us! But what if we shifted our perceptions a bit and saw the invisible ones as companions rather than threats? World civilizations and spiritual traditions have long recognized the concepts of angels, guardians and guides. They honor abiding ancestors and ghostly presences. Perhaps like the fragrance of perfume that lingers in a room after the wearer has left, we too leave traces of our soul presence and disembodied remembrances. Rather than fear these experiences, we can honor and engage them to bring new

richness and refreshed depths of understanding to our lives. Walking the labyrinth in Chartres Cathedral outside Paris, France, was one of many moments in my life when those ancient echoes became living companions. It was suggested that we could enter it barefoot if we wanted, and so I chose that option, which I would highly recommend to anyone going there. As I took one step after another, I walked the winding pathways moving towards the center and then back out to the circumference amid this sacred space. I was aware of the other pilgrims walking in prayer beside me, but as my spiritual centering deepened, I was moved to tears by the profound awareness of the feet that had walked these very stones for centuries before me. Their prayers of hope and faith were embedded into this sacred landscape, and abided there still as they swirled around me as unseen companions of spirit. What if the words of the renown English romantic poet William Wordsworth

are truer than we may have imagined: Our birth is but a sleep & a forgetting ... The Soul that rises with us, our Life’s star, Hath had elsewhere its setting, and cometh from afar; Not in entire forgetfulness, And not in utter nakedness, But trailing clouds of glory do we come ... What if we not only trail clouds of glory as we come, but also as we go? Leaving behind unseen energies for others to sense, engage with and be inspired by. Go out into your world this day with eyes open, ears alert and soul open to experience all of life’s wonder ... the visible and the invisible ... the ancient and the new ... the earth itself and the peoples who have walked it ... the sacredness of life in all of its amazing and eternal forms.  Rev. Pam Douglas-Smith is the minister at the Unity Spiritual Enrichment Center in Port Townsend who leads international spiritual pilgrimages. Contact her at revpam@unitypt.org.

Fall 2018 Living on the Peninsula

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residents with memory loss Two beautiful outdoor areas Raised flower beds for gardening Spa room with jetted spa tub Individualized service plans Licensed nurses Dementia-trained caregivers Respite services available


Congratulations on a quality survey

We are very pleased to have passed our recent survey with results below the state average again this year. Our staff has worked very hard to maintain our high standards and provide quality care to our residents. This accomplishment reflects your outstanding commitment to providing quality care and services to our residents. We thank you for your efforts and appreciate your hard work and dedication. Thank you Jason Segar Administrator of Crestwood Health and Rehabilitation

892130804 882196090

Finalis t B Rehab est ilita Facilit tion y Clalla m Co

Scott John Raszler Raszler,

892068396

M.A., CCC-A, a Certified Clinical Audiologist and a licensed hearing aid dispenser, opened The Hearing Advantage in 1990 to provide the finest quality hearing aids and services to the Olympic Peninsula. The Hearing Advantage specializes in the newest technology in Scott John Raszler, M.A., CCC-A hearing aids, including new digital instruments. The Hearing Advantage provides complete hearing evaluations, hearing aid sales, repairs, batteries and accessories. If anyone has a hearing problem, call The Hearing Advantage for the best in professional hearing healthcare.

5th Avenue Professional Plaza • 568 N. Fifth Ave., Sequim • Phone: 360-683-5389

1116 East Lauridsen Blvd., Port Angeles, WA 98362 • 360.452.9206 • www.crestwoodskillednursing.com

0% APR for 72 Months

0% APR for 72 Months* * 0% APR for 72 Months*

or Up $1,000 in Trade-In or Up ToTo $1,000 in Trade-In Allowances Allowances when purchase qualifying Trane equipment when youyou purchase qualifying Trane equipment

*The Wells Fargo Home Projects credit card is issued by Wells Fargo Bank, N.A., an Equal Housing Lender. *The Wells Fargo Home Projects credit card is issued by Wells Fargo Bank, N.A., an Equal Housing Lender. Special terms apply to qualifying purchases charged with approved credit. The special terms APR will continue Special terms apply to qualifying purchases charged with approved credit. The special terms APR will continue to apply until all qualifying purchases are paid in full. The monthly payment for this purchase will be the amount to apply until all qualifying purchases are paid in full. The monthly payment for this purchase will be the amount that will pay for the purchase in full in equal payments during the promotional (special terms) period. The APR that will pay for the purchase in full in equal payments during the promotional (special terms) period. The APR for Purchases will apply to certain fees such as a late payment fee or if you use the card for other transactions. for Purchases will apply to certain fees such as a late payment fee or if you use the card for other transactions. For new accounts, the APR for Purchases is 28.99%. If you are charged interest in any billing cycle, the minimum For new accounts, the APR for Purchases is 28.99%. If you are charged interest in any billing cycle, the minimum interest charge will be $1.00. This information is accurate as of 3/13/2018 and is subject to change. For current interest charge will be $1.00. This information is accurate as of 3/13/2018 and is subject to change. For current information, call us at 1-800-431-5921. **See your independent Trane Dealer for complete program eligibility, information, call us at 1-800-431-5921. **See your independent Trane Dealer for complete program eligibility, dates, details and restrictions. Special financing offers, offers vary by equipment. All sales must be to homedates, details and restrictions. Special financing offers, offers vary by equipment. All sales must be to homeowners in the United States. Void where prohibited. Offer expires 12/31/2018. owners in the United States. Void where prohibited. Offer expires 12/31/2018.

We’re ready to help, 24/7

We’re ready to help, 24/7

360-775-2267 360-775-2267 Your experts. home comfort experts. Your home comfort

892179795

8092196076

LICENSED & INSURED | LICENSE# AIRFL*1206DG LICENSED & INSURED | LICENSE# AIRFL*1206DG

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Fall 2018 Living on the Peninsula

31


Your journey to beating cancer just got shorter. You don’t have to leave the North Olympic Peninsula to get exceptional cancer care. Located in Sequim, Olympic Medical Cancer Center delivers world-class cancer care close to home. Our affiliation with Seattle Cancer Care Alliance gives our patients full access to the world-renowned therapies developed at Fred Hutchinson Cancer Research Center, UW Medicine and Seattle Children’s. If you’re dealing with cancer, Olympic Medical Cancer Center can help. Visit olympicmedical.org or call (360) 683-9895.

Profile for Sound Publishing

Special Sections - Living on the Peninsula Fall 2018  

i20180910143932924.pdf

Special Sections - Living on the Peninsula Fall 2018  

i20180910143932924.pdf