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WINTER 2017

WHAT’S IN A NAME? THE NATURE OF NAMES

Peninsula landmarks dubbed for enduring features

OUT ON THE WEST END

Place names rooted in the Quileute language

SEQUIM’S PATRIOTIC NEIGHBORHOOD The mystery of Sun Meadows’ streets

Supplement to Sequim Gazette and Port Townsend and Jefferson County Leader


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Chimacum Corner Farmstand Discovery Bay Village Store Agnew Store, Country Aire, Laird’s Corner Market Port Townsend Port Townsend Food Co-Op Sequim Nash’s Organic Produce, Sunny Farms Call us at 360.683.0716 to inquire about community drop point locations

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Winter 2017

Contents 11 | A ROSE BY ANY OTHER A Master Gardener discusses where peninsula plants get their names

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13 | AT THE LIBRARY Our book list will aid the eager pupil in exploring the history of peninsula names 15 | SUN MEADOWS Sequim’s patriotic neighborhood holds a few mysteries of its own

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17 | NATURE OF NAMES Many peninsula landmarks dubbed for their historical and enduring features 21 | ON THE WEST END On the peninsula’s western side, place names are rooted in the Quileute language

Vol. 13, No. 4 Living on the Peninsula is a quarterly publication

Departments

WINTER 2017

6 | OUTDOOR RECREATION The origin of the Sol Duc Valley’s name is not easily defined 147 W. Washington St., Sequim, WA 98382 Terry R. Ward, Regional Publisher Steve Perry, General Manager Editorial & Production: Brenda Hanrahan, Special Sections Editor Laura Lofgren, Special Sections Editor Advertising Sales (360) 683-3311 • (360) 452-2345 ©2017 Sequim Gazette 226 Adams St. Port Townsend, WA 98368 (360) 385-2900 Lloyd Mullen, Publisher Allison Arthur, Writer ©2017 Port Townsend and Jefferson County Leader

9 | PENINSULA EVENTS CALENDAR Find out what’s going on around the peninsula in January, February and March

WHAT’S IN A NAME? THE NATURE OF NAMES

Peninsula landmarks dubbed for enduring features

OUT ON THE WEST END

Place names rooted in the Quileute language

24 | ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT The Strait Stamp Society philatelists extol the benefits of stamp collecting 28 | THE DAYTRIPPER Port Townsend is the perfect spot for a fun-filled birthday bash 30 | LIVING END Rev. Pam Douglas-Smith discusses the meaning and evolution of names

SEQUIM’S PATRIOTIC NEIGHBORHOOD The mystery of Sun Meadows’ streets

Supplement to Sequim Gazette and Port Townsend and Jefferson County Leader

On the cover Egg and I Road is located in Chimacum. The name is synonymous with a memoir by American author Betty MacDonald. Photo by Chris Tucker, Port Townsend and Jefferson County Leader

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OUTDOOR RECREATION

The Sol Duc Valley Or is it Soleduck? Or Solduck?

Story by Michael Dashiell Photos by Jay Cline The beauty of the Sol Duc Valley — or Soleduck — or Solduck — is readily apparent to any visitor in this gem within Olympic National Park. The origin of its name/names? Not as easily defined. As recorded by author Smitty Parratt in “Gods and Goblins: A Field Guide to Place Names in Olympic National Park,” Quileute linguist Jay V. Powell said Sol Duc is the corruption of a Quileute word whose meaning has been lost in antiquity. While George Wuethner wrote in “Olympic: A Visitor’s Companion” that Sol Duc comes from the Quileute word meaning “sparkling waters,” Powell described any imputed meaning as “erroneous folk etymologies.” In 1992, the spelling was officially changed to Sol Duc by the State of Washington Board on Geographic Names. Low-key and adventurous hikers alike can’t go wrong here, however, as the 78-mile-long river and valley located about 20 miles southwest of Lake Crescent is replete with awaiting adventures. According to Olympic National Park, chinook and coho salmon ascend the Sol Duc in late summer and spawn in late fall while cutthroat trout and steelhead run in the fall and winter and spawn into the spring. All of these anadromous fish are born in the Sol Duc River, park officials said, but spend most of their lives in the Pacific Ocean before returning home to spawn. The Sol Duc is one of the few places where salmon run in every season.

THE HIKES

A popular easy hike is a 0.8-mile (one-way) trek to Sol Duc Falls. The family-friendly trail lined with oldgrowth trees — from alders and maples to Douglas fir, hemlock and Sitka spruce — begins at the end of Sol Duc Road. Less than a mile in, visitors can hear the roar of the falls. Depending on water volume, Sol

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Duc Falls splits into as many as four channels as it cascades 48 feet into a narrow, rocky canyon. There are several viewpoints of the waterfall, both upstream and down, and an impressive bridge that spans the river. Bring a camera and open those shutters to get a cascading effect on your shots. Another easy hike is the Lover’s Lane trail, a 6-mile loop that combines many of the highlights of the Sol Duc River. This trail starts from the north end of the Sol Duc Hot Springs with a short stretch on Mink Lake Trail before turning off onto its own trail. Boardwalks cross swampy areas, and the trail makes frequent approaches to the river. Watch for Hidden Creek, where you will have to cross sans bridge, one that’s passable for sure unless the creek has been fed by a healthy recent rainstorm, in which hiking poles or a stick will help. Soon after, cross Canyon Creek using its one-lane bridge. Take in the double falls of Canyon Creek. From there, the incline increases somewhat to the junction with the Deer Lake Trail. For those who want a bit more adventure, try Deer Lake via the Canyon Creek Trail. Hitch up to the 3.8-mile (one-way) trek either at Sol Duc Falls or the intersection wth Lover’s Lane and make your way up about 1,650 feet of elevation through dense forest. Hike alongside several waterfalls and cross the creek via a bridge before you start your big climb. Deer Lake is actually two lakes, though one is much smaller than the other (to the west, it’s about one-seventh the size). Past Deer Lake, hike on to either Little Divide to the east or High Divide — and Seven Lakes Basin and/or Hoh Lake, if you please. Another good day hike or overnighter is Mink Lake. The 2.6-mile (one-way) trail begins at the Hot Springs/ Eagle Ranger Station and climbs about 1,500 feet to an alpine lake.


A coho salmon bursts out of the water at the Salmon Cascades during a fall run. Opposite page: A creek runs through mossy rocks in the Sol Duc Valley. At a quarter mile, the trail jogs across an old logging road and soon enters old growth and an underbrush of huckleberry. At two miles, the trail rounds a spur at about 2,800 feet before gently meandering

toward the lake. Past the lake, the trail passes a marshy area and eventually ends where it intersects the Bogachiel Trail at Little Divide. From there, you can hike on to Deer Lake to the west.

For those who want to get some miles under their proverbial belt, also consider the North Fork Sol Duc Trail (10 miles, one-way), one that aptly follows the north fork of the Sol Duc to several good camping spots, such as Fryingpan Camp (three miles in) before descending into unmaintained trail for several miles before the North Fork Sol Duc Shelter at nine miles. The trail falls just short of Boulder Lake. Or try the Sol Duc Trail, an 8.5mile path that parallels the river to Bridge Creek, then follows that stream to Sol Duc Park and the High Divide where it joins the High Divide-Bailey Range Trail. Call the Wilderness Information Center (360-565-3100) for information on wilderness camping permits and bear canisters. It should be noted that Sol Duc Road, the entryway to the Sol Duc Valley off U.S. Highway 101 outside of Port Angeles, is closed to vehicles for the winter season. Visit www.nps.gov/olym for more information about accessibility.

HOT SPRINGS HISTORY

An Olympic National Park resource describes a Native American Indian legend that explains how Olympic and Sol Duc Hot Springs cam to be. Two dragons — one living in the

Sol Duc Valley, the other in the Elwha — were exploring the forest when they, for the first time, came face-to-face on top of the ridge separating the valleys. “They exploded with anger as each accused the other of invading its territory,” the legend goes, and “the fight was brutal as the dragons thrashed and ripped at each other to win back their territory.” After years of fighting and clawing at each other, the dragons frustratedly withdrew to caves in their respective valleys and are still crying over being defeated. Their hot tears are the source of the hot springs. Parratt notes in “Gods and Goblins” that sometime during the 1880s, a Quillayute Valley settler named Theodore Moritz “discovered” mineral water seepage in the Sol Duc Valley after being taken there by a grateful native to whom he had given medical assistance. He built a cabin there and filed a claim on the land. In 1910, an entrepreneur named Michael Earles formed the Sol Duc Hot Springs Company with four others, constructed a road from Fairholme on the west end of Lake Crescent to the springs and then spent about $500,000 on a health spa. This four-story, 165-room hotel opened May 15, 1912.

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According to Parratt’s research, thousands of guest from across the U.S. and Europe — 10,000 in one year alone — flocked to the resort to relax in its sanatorium and bathhouses and soak in water that warms up to 130-140 degrees. “It was widely believed that the waters were good treatment for everything from rheumatism to anemia and from ulcers to blood disorders,” Parratt wrote. On May 26, 1926, however, sparks from a defective flue set off a fire to the shingle roof of the resort and, since the summer season had not yet opened the water was turned off. With staff members unable to douse the flames, strong winds helped reduce the resort to ashes. Today, the resort is operated on a smaller scale by private concessionaires under contract with the National Park Service, alongside the Sol Duc campground that features 82 camping sites. The pools, however, closed on Oct. 29, for the winter and early spring months.

One of the most beautiful views of Sol Duc Falls can be seen as you walk across the bridge. Use caution, as it might be slippery on any given day.

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WINTER 2017-18

CALENDAR OF EVENTS JANUARY

Port Townsend/Jefferson County • Gallery Walk/Artist Receptions, various locations in Port Townsend, Jan. 6. • Strange Brew Festival, American Legion Hall, 209 Monroe St. in Port Townsend, 5 p.m. to midnight, Jan. 26, and 1 p.m. to midnight, Jan. 27. Event will feature more than 30 brewers with more than 60 brews on tap. Tickets cost $30. Must be 21 years old or older to attend. www.strangebrewfestpt. com Sequim/Dungeness Valley • Quartz Crystal Singing Bowls, Shipley Center, 921 Hammond St., 11 a.m. to noon, Jan. 5, 12, 19 and 26. Fee: $3 for Shipley Center members, $4 for non-members. www.creativechangeshypnosis.org • First Friday Art Walk, various locations in Sequim, Jan. 5. Free. • First Friday Meet the Artist! at Blue Whole Gallery, 129 W. Washington St., 5 p.m. to 8 p.m., Jan. 5. Free admission. www.bluewhole gallery.com • Wednesday Morning Bird Walks, meet at the Dungeness River Audubon Center at Railroad Bridge Park, 2151 W. Hendrickson Road, 8:30 a.m. to 10:30 a.m. each Wednesday. All ages and experience levels welcome. Free. • Meet the Artist! at The Fifth Avenue, 500 W. Hendrickson Road, 1 p.m. to 3 p.m., Jan. 7. Free. www.thefifthavenue.com • Port Angeles Symphony Chamber Orchestra Concert, Sequim Worship Center, 640 N. Sequim Ave., 7 p.m., Jan. 20. www. portangelessymphony.org

FEBRUARY

Port Townsend/Jefferson County • Gallery Walk/Artists Receptions, various locations in Port Townsend, Feb. 3. Free. • Red Wine and Chocolate, wineries throughout the area,

Andy Burkhead of Seattle attends his fifth Port Townsend Strange Brewfest last year with friends and family, all dressed as Vikings. Photo from Peninsula Daily News archives Feb. 10-11 and Feb. 17-19. www. olympicpeninsulawineries.org • Port Townsend Community Orchestra Winter Concert, Chimacum High School auditorium, 91 West Valley Road, 2 p.m., Feb. 25. Free. www.porttownsend orchestra.org • 27th annual Port Townsend Shipwrights’ Regatta, race starts at noon on Port Townsend Bay, Feb. 24. www.nwmaritime.org/ship wrights Sequim/Dungeness Valley • Quartz Crystal Singing Bowls, Shipley Center, 921 Hammond St., 11 a.m. to noon, Feb. 2, 9, 16 and 23. Fee: $3 for Shipley Center members, $4 for non-members. www.creativechangeshypnosis.org • Wednesday Morning Bird Walks, meet at the Dungeness River Audubon Center at Railroad Bridge Park, 2151 W. Hendrickson Road, 8:30 a.m. to 10:30 a.m. each Wednesday. All ages and experience levels welcome. Free. • Meet the Artist! at The Fifth Avenue, 500 W. Hendrickson Road, 1 p.m. to 3 p.m., Feb. 4. Free. www.thefifthavenue.com • First Friday Art Walk, various locations in Sequim, Feb. 2. Free.

• First Friday Meet the Artist! at Blue Whole Gallery, 129 W. Washington St., 5 p.m. to 8 p.m., Feb. 2. Free admission. www.bluewhole gallery.com • Red Wine and Chocolate, wineries throughout the area, Feb. 10-11 and Feb. 17-19. www. olympicpeninsulawineries.org • NPBA Building, Remodeling & Energy Expo, Sequim High School, 601 N. Sequim Ave., 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., Feb. 17, and 9 a.m. to 2 p.m., Feb. 18. Free. www.npba.info • Sequim Irrigation Royalty Pageant, Sequim High School auditorium, 601 N. Sequim Ave., Feb. 10. www.irrigationfestival.com

MARCH

Port Townsend/Jefferson County • Port Townsend Chamber Music Festival — A Baroque Feast: Lucinda Carver, Elizabeth Blumenstock & Friends, March 4, at Joseph F. Wheeler Theater at Fort Worden State Park in Port Townsend, www.centrum. org/port-townsend-chamber-musicfestival • First Saturday Gallery Walk, various locations in Port Townsend, 5:30 p.m. to 8 p.m., March 3.

Sequim/Dungeness Valley • Quartz Crystal Singing Bowls, Shipley Center, 921 Hammond St., 11 a.m. to noon, March 2, 9, 16, 23 and 30. Fee: $3 for Shipley Center members, $4 for non-members. www.creativechangeshypnosis.org • First Friday Art Walk, various locations in Sequim, March 2. Free. • First Friday Meet the Artist! at Blue Whole Gallery, 129 W. Washington St., 5 p.m. to 8 p.m., March 2. Free admission. www.bluewhole gallery.com • Meet the Artist! at The Fifth Avenue, 500 W. Hendrickson Road, 1 p.m. to 3 p.m., March 4. Free. www.thefifthavenue.com • Wednesday Morning Bird Walks, meet at the Dungeness River Audubon Center at Railroad Bridge Park, 2151 W. Hendrickson Road, 8:30 a.m. to 10:30 a.m. each Wednesday. All ages and experience levels welcome. Free. • Soroptimist International of Sequim 20th annual Gala Garden Show, Sequim Boys & Girls Club, 400 W. Fir St., March 17, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., March 18 from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Adult entrance fee is $5; children younger than 12 are free. www.sequimgardenshow.com

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Olympic Theatre Arts is a 501(c)3 non�profit volunteer community theatre serving our community since 1980! Our mission statement: Olympic Theatre Arts entertains, educates and inspires community involvement through experiences in the arts.

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A rose by any other name ... A Master Gardener discusses where peninsula plants get their names By Jeanette Stehr-Green Where do plants get their names? Many get their names from the characteristics they display. For example, skunk cabbage (scientific name: Symplocarpus foetidus) smells distinctly of skunk scent when the leaves are crushed. Other plants get their names from where they were first discovered. For example, Sitka spruce (scientific name: Picea sitchensis), a highly valued tree in the state of Alaska, was named for the city of Sitka, where the tree was first sighted by European explorers.  But some of the most interesting names of plants are those that honor early botanists, naturalists and explorers who traveled to the far reaches of the earth, risking their lives to collect new and unknown species, not only to advance scientific knowledge but for their potential value in commerce. Three naturalists, Archibald Menzies, Meriwether Lewis and David Douglas, figured prominently in the exploration of the Pacific Northwest and their names grace many of the plants in our region. Archibald Menzies (1754-1842) was born in Scotland and is thought to be the first European to collect plants in the Pacific Northwest. After working in the Royal Botanic Gardens of Scotland, Menzies studied botany and medicine and then joined the Royal Navy. His first trip to the Pacific Northwest was in 1786 as surgeon on a fur trading expedition.   In 1790, he was appointed as a naturalist to the around-theworld expedition of the HMS Discovery led by George Vancouver. The purpose of the expedition, among other things, was to make the King’s Kew Garden the world’s greatest assemblage of plants, living and preserved.  

NAMING OF THE DOUGLAS FIR The Douglas fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii) is one of the nation’s most important lumber species. It makes up nearly half of all Christmas trees grown in the U.S. and helped settle the West by providing railroad ties and telegraph poles to connect the sprawling nation. Its name honors both Archibald Menzies and David Douglas, reported rivals. How did that come to be? Archibald Menzies was likely the first European to observe the Douglas fir during his voyages on the HMS Discovery. In 1792 and again in 1794, Menzies collected samples of a tree he called the “Oregon pine” from Vancouver Island. Although plant materials were sent back to England, they were never received and the tree was not introduced into cultivation at that time. In 1803, Aylmer B. Lambert, a conifer authority in England, gave the tree the scientific name Pinus taxifolia because it was thought to be a pine and had needles similar to those of the yew tree, a member of the genus Taxus.  In 1806 Meriwether Lewis collected specimens and drew diagrams of what was likely the same plant while wintering at Fort Clatsop (near present day Astoria, Oregon). In 1813 Frederick Pursh published descriptions of plant material collected by Lewis and William Clark and equated the plant they collected with Lambert’s scientific name, Pinus taxifolia. It was not until 1830 when Douglas collected cones and seeds along the Columbia River that the tree was successfully cultivated in England.   In 1832, an English botanist proposed the name Pinus douglasii after studying specimens collected by Douglas. A year later, another English botanist, thinking the tree was not a pine, renamed the tree Abies douglasii, giving it the genus of true firs and the common name of “Douglas fir.”   As it slowly became clear that the Douglas fir was not a pine or a true fir, a succession of name changes occurred. By the 1900s, Pseudotsuga was the commonly agreed upon genus name for this tree. In 1950, it was discovered that a French botanist had proposed Abies menziesii in 1825 to honor Menzies. Subsequently a Portuguese botanist proposed the name Pseudotsuga menziesii which was formally adopted as the scientific name a few years later. But the common name, Douglas fir, honoring a rival of Menzies, stuck. On the expedition, Menzies recorded detailed observations of hundreds of plants; he dried specimens and collected seeds. Any curious or valuable plants that could not be propagated from seed were dug up and planted in glass frames on the deck of the Discovery. Sadly, the glass frames were flooded on the Discovery’s return and all of the plants were lost.

Nonetheless, Menzies introduced dozens of plants into Europe for cultivation through the seeds he collected. Menzies’ name appears in the common and/or scientific name of a number of plants found in the Pacific Northwest, only some of which he as actually collected. These include the Douglas fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii), firewood banksia (Banksia menziesii), fool’s

huckleberry (Menziesia ferruginea), youth-on-age (Tolmiea menziesii), Pacific madrone (Arbutus menziesii), Menzies’ larkspur (Delphinium menziesii), small-flowered fiddleneck (Amsinckia menziesii), Menzies’ neckera (Metaneckera menziesii) and the lace lichen (Ramalina menziesii). Meriwether Lewis (1774-1809) was born in the Colony of Virginia and raised in Georgia. Although untrained in the field of botany, he was a keen observer, a meticulous recorder and had learned much about plant life from his mother, a practicing herbalist. After serving in the Virginia militia, Lewis was recruited at the age of 28 by President Thomas Jefferson to lead the first transcontinental expedition to the Pacific Coast. The mission of the Corps of Discovery (Lewis and Clark Expedition) was not only to find the most direct and practicable water route across the continent for the purposes of commerce, but to “create a scientific basis for the future” by recording and collecting plant and animal specimens. Over the two-year exploration covering more than 8,000 miles, Lewis and other members of the expedition dutifully catalogued, collected, and dried hundreds of plant specimens along the route from St. Louis to Oregon and back. Their collections and recorded observations formed the basis for the first major scientific publication about plants west of the Mississippi River assembled by Frederick Pursh in 1813. Plants bearing Lewis’ name include Lewis’ monkeyflower (Mimulus lewisii), Lewis’ mock orange (Philadelphus lewisii), Lewisia (Lewisia sp.) and blue flax (Linum lewisii). Sadly, although widely acclaimed for his part in the Corps of Discovery, Lewis struggled upon his return home. In 1809, he died under mysterious circumstance at the age of 35.

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The Douglas fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii) bears cones with a distinctive three-pointed bract that protrudes prominently above each scale (and is said to resemble the back half of a mouse, with two feet and a tail). Its common and scientific names honor David Douglas and Archibald Menzies, respectively. Photo by Jeanette Stehr-Gree

SCIENTIFIC NAMES

Douglas (1799-1834) grew up in Scotland and left school at age 11 to become a gardener’s assistant. After completing an apprenticeship, he began work at the Botanical Gardens of Glasgow University and later was selected by the Royal Horticultural Society as a botanical collector. Douglas made three trips to the Pacific Northwest, befriending native peoples, fur trappers, Hudson’s Bay Company employees, and fellow naturalists to collect every plant and animal that he could. His second expedition, beginning in 1826, ranks among the greatest of botanical explorations in history. This expedition is said to have resulted in the introduction of more

than 200 species of plants to Great Britain including the Douglas fir, Sitka spruce, western white pine, grand fir and noble fir. Some of these introductions transformed the British landscape and timber industry. It is said that Douglas’ name is attached to more than 80 plant and animal species, some of which he collected or described during his travels and others purely as an acknowledgement of his contributions to botany. Plants bearing his name include the Douglas fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii), smooth Douglasia (Douglasia laevigata), black hawthorn (Crataegus douglasii), hardhack (Spiraea douglasii), Douglas’ blue-eyed grass (Sisyrinchium douglasii), Douglas’ knot-

weed (Polygonum douglasii), Douglas’ campion (Silene douglasii), swamp gentian (Gentiana douglasiana), Douglas’ neckera moss (Neckera douglasii), Douglas’ dusty maiden (Chaenactis douglasii), and western water hemlock (Cicuta douglasii). Douglas died at the age of 35 in a tragic accident in Hawaii while climbing Mauna Kea, a dormant volcano on the big island of Hawaii. These three explorers are just a few of the intrepid, indefatigable collectors who scoured the globe in the 1700s and 1800s, risking their lives in search for new plant and animal species. It is only fitting that we are reminded of their contributions through the many local plants that bear their names. Jeanette Stehr-Green has been a WSU-certified Clallam County Master Gardener since 2003. She writes gardening articles for both the Peninsula Daily News and Sequim Gazette and provides presentations for the public on a variety of gardening topics. Stehr-Green and her husband, Paul, have lived on the Olympic Peninsula since 1998 and enjoy hiking and identifying the varied native plants of our region.

Lewis’ monkeyflower (Mimulus lewisii) was among the plants first documented by Meriwether Lewis. Frederick Pursh, the 19th century botanist who identified most of the expedition’s collections, named the species in Lewis’ honor. Photo by Janis Burger (copyright)

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Common names of plants are colorful but can vary from place to place. As a result some plants have more than one common name while some common names can refer to more than one plant. This can be confusing. Scientific names, on the other hand, are unique. They are standardized, sometimes through an arduous process (see story on the Naming of the Douglas fir) so that each organism has only one name and the same name is used to refer to the same organism across the entire globe. A plant’s scientific name can change due to newer genetic research or other discoveries, but it can only be changed by international agreement. Scientific names have two parts. The first part is the genus name and is the name given to a group of closely related species that evolved from a common ancestor. It is similar to a person’s family or last name that can be shared by siblings, cousins, and other relatives. For example, the vine maple and the big leaf maple are both members of the genus Acer. The second name is the species name. The species name is like a given or first name, particular to a very specific type of organism. For example, the vine maple is Acer circinatum and the big leaf maple is Acer macrophyllum. Scientific names are usually based on Latin words or words treated as if they were Latin. For example, in scientific names “Menzies” is changed to “menziesii” and “Douglas” is changed to “douglasii.” The scientific name is always written in italics or underlined. The genus name is capitalized; the species name is not.


Using the library to explore the history of names on the peninsula By Sarah Morrison The history of Maxfield Prairie, Diamond Point and other Clallam County places might seem like a closed book, but with resources available through the North Olympic Library System (NOLS), this information can quickly be at your fingertips. Listed here are several books that include the origin of many Olympic Peninsula places names: ■ “Washington State Place Names: From Alki to Yelm” by Doug Brokenshire (1993). Covering over 100 Washington place names, from Cape Flattery to Clarkston, this volume offers a few paragraphs on each unique location. “The people of the Northwest in early times were of varied nationalities — Hawaiian, Chinese, English, American and Spanish being among them. Perhaps the most colorful of them were the French, most of them employed by the Hudson’s Bay Company in paddling this organization’s furs up and down the Columbia River, transporting supplies inland to fur posts or delivering the furs to the coast for shipment overseas. “The name of this town, located on the Washington Coast twentyeight south of Cape Flattery, doubtless stems from the French la bouche (the mouth), which is descriptive of La Push’s location where the Quillayute River flows into the Pacific Ocean.” ■ “Place Names of Washington” by Robert Hitchman (1985). This helpful resource includes the section, township and range of each described place, making it easier to locate each area of interest. A general description of the area is included in each short entry. “Sekiu (S.18;T.32N;R.12W) Small community on the west

shore of Clallam Bay, Strait of Juan de Fuca, northwest Clallam County. The place is based on a log dump and rafting ground in the bay. Capt. Henry Kellett chose the present name, using the original Indian designation. Captain George Davidson of U.S. Coast Survey, confirmed Kellett’s naming, but spelled the name Sik-ke-u, which corresponds more closely to the Indian pronunciation.” ■ “Origin of Washington Geographic Names” by E.W. Meany (1923). This 350-page volume offers the most places across the state, with the shortest description for each location. “Elwha River, rising in the Olympic Mountains, it flows into the Strait of Juan de Fuca near Port Angeles, in the northern part of Clallam County. The name first appears on the British Admiralty Chart 1911, Kellet 1847, and on all subsequent maps, though the spelling has not always been the same. Rev. Myron Eels says the Indian word means ‘Elk.’ ” ■ “Our Native American Legacy: Northwest Towns with Indian Names” by Sandy Nestor (2001). Covering Washington, Oregon, Idaho and Alaska, this volume includes only a few places in Clallam County, with a further handful elsewhere on the Olympic Peninsula and the Washington Coast. It is included in this list, however, because entries are long — at least a full page — and informative, including historical facts, dates and people. “The beanshaped island of Tatoosh is situated off the extreme northwest point of the state near the Makah

Indian Reservation. Traditionally a summer fishing village for the Makah Indians, John Meares named the island to commemorate a Nootka Indian chief named Tatoochatticus …” ■ “Gods and Goblins: A Field Guide to Place Names of Olympic National Park” by Smitty Parratt (2009). This slim volume, useful in that it includes only place names in Olympic National Park, includes both documented names that appear on maps and also the names of places not noted on U.S. Geological Surveys. While some entries are brief (“Brown Creek: Named for James Brown, early settler. Brown settled near here at the mouth of Kalaloch Creek in 1892. Two relatives, Bessie and Robert W. Brown, moved to a nearby site a few years later.”), others are several paragraphs or more and include photos. Refer to the example in the front of the book in order to get the most out of this recommended resource. ■ “Washington State Place Names” by J.W. Phillips (1971). Another state-wide name resource, this one includes a pronunciation guide for many locations along with each short description. “Kula Kala Point, KUH-la KAH-la (Clallam). A point east of Dungeness is a misspelling of the Chinook jargon word kula kula, meaning ‘travel.’ ” ■ “Why do they call it…?” by June Robinson (1995). These tiny volumes have an extremely local focus, with separate works for the West End, East End

and Central Corridor. As each volume is a slim 14 pages, each entry contains only a sentence or two, but all entries are wellknown locations within the county. “Lotzgesell Road. George Henry Lotzgesell, a German tailor, came to Dungeness in 1859 and engaged in dairy farming. He continued to add to his land holdings until he and his family had the largest acreage of farm lands in the valley.” ■ “Jimmy Come Lately History of Clallam County: A Symposium” by Jervis Russell (Ed.) (1971). Saving the best for last, this locally-compiled resource is the first stop for any historical questions county-wide. In addition to a comprehensive history of pioneer families and area founders, the history of many places in the county is included. “Agnew was known as DeFuca in the early days and was also referred to by the old-timers as Wild Cat Valley. About 1920 we had the voting precinct name changed to Agnew after the late Charles Agnew.” If you check out this recommended resource, don’t forget the Index, bound separately. In addition to name-origin books, many other local history books include name origins as an aside, such as “This is what was down that road!” by Harriet U. Fish and “Hiking Washington’s History” by Judy Bentley. A book available for check-out can be sent to your nearest NOLS location for you to check out, take home and peruse at your leisure. Reference and archive items can be sent to your nearest NOLS branch but must be used inside the library. The Archive Room is located at the Port Angeles Library, 2210 S. Peabody St. Check the availability of each item at www.nols.org or ask any staff member for assistance.

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Sequim’s Neighborhood

The mystery of Sun Meadows’ streets

Story and photos by Erin Hawkins A patriotic theme runs through the Sun Meadows neighborhood sitting between downtown Sequim and John Wayne Marina just outside of Sequim city limits. Connecting the 120-lot development within view of the Olympic Mountains in a large loop are some inspiring names — Independence Drive, Liberty Way, America Boulevard, Patriot Way. But talking to locals, you may need help from NCIS or military police to discern the mystery behind them. No one can quite pin down why the streets have their particular names. Was it a veteran developer? An honor for a friend?

IN THE PAPERWORK

Over the past 20 plus years, plat documents from Clallam County show the development was first purchased by New Concept Development Company, a Washington Corporation, on July 5, 1995, by the company’s president Herbert Mull. As it turns out, Mull was not the developer who named the streets of Sun Meadows. Before Mull bought the property 22 years ago, a statutory warranty deed was signed by a Thomas Gaul and Pacific Guardianship & Trust Services as guardian for Jo Ellen Gaul in July of 1994 as grantors signing the property over to New Concept Development Company. Steve Zenovic, the consulting principal engineer of Zenovic & Associates, Inc. in Port Angeles, who laid out the design of the Sun Meadows development said the developer who named the streets was Thomas Gaul, but as to why he named the streets was not disclosed. “(Tom Gaul) named the streets but I don’t recall any discussion on how he chose them,” Zenovic said.

RESIDENT PERSPECTIVE

Several of the Sun Meadows residents also said they do not know how the streets got their

The neighborhood of Sun Meadows lies just off West Sequim Bay Road one mile east of downtown Sequim and one mile west of John Wayne Marina. Liberty Way is one of four patriotic street names that run throughout the housing development. names either. Two residents recall there were different intentions for one road — America Boulevard. George Gring, who has lived 13 years on America Boulevard, said “America the Beautiful” was written on the phase 1 grading plans of Sun Meadows. “The original filings showed where I live was called ‘America the Beautiful Boulevard,’ which was then truncated to ‘American Boulevard,’” he said. Another longtime resident, Bob Metz, who also served on the Sun Meadows Homeowners

Association Board of Directors from 2004-2006, said he remembers seeing that original street name too. “America Boulevard was going to be known as ‘America the Beautiful Boulevard’ or just ‘America the Beautiful,’” Metz said. Metz said the neighborhood has kept many of the documents regarding the property within the development and showed a large drawing of the lots, including the street names dating back to 1992 titled, “Bell Valley P.U.D. Phase I, Grading Plan,” which confirms “America the Beautiful Boulevard” written on the documents.

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to “America Boulevard” was because it did not fit the parameters of the post office.

Sun Meadows resident Bob Metz shows the phase 1 grading plan for the development dating back to 1992 and points out America the Beautiful Boulevard that is now America Boulevard.

The original plat documents recorded by the county in 1995, however, show the street name was changed to America Boulevard. Donella Clark, Clallam County’s senior planner, said the plat documents signed in 1995 by Mull are the only documents that were recorded by the county and she doesn’t have more documents related to the property.

SPEAKING UP

Owners of the 118 homes and remaining two lots collectively own the housing complex and common areas of Sun Meadows through the Sun Meadows Homeowners Association (HOA) that operates as a nonprofit. Shawnna Rigg, an HOA board of directors member and previous resident of Sun Meadows from 1999-2004 on Patriot Way, said the street names have been that way from the time when she moved in the neighborhood in 1999. “Those were the names of the streets when I moved there,” Rigg said. “Everybody just thought that was very patriotic.” Rigg owns the last two lots left to build on in the development and said she sells real estate for RE/MAX Prime in Sequim and many of her clients ask to live in the current Sun Meadows neighborhood. She said Sun Meadows is a welcoming and friendly community that watches out for each other. “People look for those kinds of neighborhoods when they move to Sequim,” she said. “Sun Meadows gives you that sense of welcoming and community.” Gring said many people speculate the street names are named that way for patriotic reasons. “My impression was some kind of patriotic knowledge,” he said. Roy Bonn, another resident on America Boulevard who has lived in the development since

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SENSE OF COMMUNITY

1997, said he believes the street names were a marketing decision made by the developer to try and appeal to the many veterans who reside in the Sequim community. “We have a lot of retired military.” “The names (were) something that would appeal to people that served in the military.” Bonn said he is a Korean War veteran and there are a lot of other retired military that live in Sun Meadows. He said from the discussions he has had with other neighbors over the years that the subdivision might also have been designed to be a senior living complex. “This appealed to especially a lot of servicemen,” he said. Bonn also said he believes the reason why “America the Beautiful Boulevard” was changed

While there is no definite confirmation Sun Meadows was named with patriotic intentions, the neighborhood seems to be patriotic in its own way. Every Fourth of July, residents host a community barbecue for family and friends of Sun Meadows’ residents and an annual garage sale. Metz said his wife Pamala started the barbecue about seven years ago and it usually has a big turnout. “It’s a really fun event,” Metz said. He said while the big Fourth of July event was not in lieu of the street names it was a way for the community to get to know one another. “I don’t think that was given much thought when Pam decided to do it,” he said. “She just wanted to bring the people together and for the kids to have a good time.” Residents said Halloween also is a big event for the community and many children come to visit to go trick-or-treating. “This year they had over 400 plus kids for Halloween because they make it a friendly neighborhood to be in,” Rigg said. She said her children have gone trick or treating in Sun Meadows and this year it had a banner up that read, “Halloween City.” Rigg said the HOA does its best to create a sense of community. “We all have the same goal to keep the community flourishing and well-maintained,” Rigg said. While the meaning behind the origin of the street names of Sun Meadows remains a mystery, the only information that could be found about Thomas Gaul, the developer who supposedly named the streets, was a birth announcement made in The Issaquah Press in December of 1988 announcing the birth of Thomas’ grandson Marc Gaul. The developers of New Concept Development could not be reached for this story.


The nature of names

Many Peninsula landmarks dubbed for enduring features This may look like a blank landscape, but every feature has been named by someone. This body of water is Quilcene Bay, named for the tribe that lived on its shores and traveled its waters. Quilcene Bay empties into Hood Canal, named by British explorer George Vancouver for a British admiral, Lord Samuel Hood. The mountain in the middle is Mount Walker, named for Charles Walker, a civil engineer who began surveying the area in early 1890s. The snowy ridge in the distance is Rocky Brook, named by white settlers and loggers. Photo by Viviann Kuehl By Viviann Kuehl The mix of names on the peninsula reflects our history, but it seems more of a tangle than a tapestry. By combing through written sources, we’re able to cull a thumbnail sketch of some origins of our local place names. The catch, of course, is that Native Americans had an oral history and no written language, so Europeans were the ones writing things down, and they had a hard time figuring out local tongues. There were two main linguistic branches — Salishan or Coast Salish (including Central Salish [Klallam and Twana], and Tsamosan [Quinault]), and Wakashan (Makah) — and plenty of tribal dialects at the time of white discovery in the mid-1700s, along with a Chinook jargon to allow communication between people who spoke dif-

ferent languages. Europeans had no previous experience with any of them, and these languages contained sounds not found in English, posing a challenge to understanding as well as scribing. Languages tended to blur together in their written accounts and gave rise to vague attributions that were sometimes improvised. Those many years ago, too, people weren’t particularly concerned about spellings in an age when spelling was still on its way to being formally standardized, making it harder for historians to sort out names. Even today, we retain two spellings of the word in Quileute and Quillayute. Now one is used for the tribe (Quileute), and one for the river (Quillayute), valley and school, but their source is the same tribe. The names of the northern peninsula counties, Clallam and Jefferson, reflect the two main naming sources, Native American and European.

Natives had names for locales that figured in their lives; the first European explorers had a habit of naming the places they saw for appearance, for members of the crew and for folks at home. Whether from appearance, use, people or mixups, place names become part of landscape and memory. They can come from different languages, change over time and can be downright surprising.

TRIBAL NAMES

Rivers are one of the most enduring features of landscapes; they draw people to them. Many of the peninsula’s rivers are named for the tribes who lived along them; however, since there were several languages spoken, with sounds not used in English and spellings in English by English speakers were approximations, the pronunciations are likely changed from the originals.

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Add to that the differences between what the people called themselves and how others referred to them, and the threads of history become a tangle. Clallam is the name of a tribe that inhabited the Clallam Bay area. The word means “brave people,” but they called themselves Nu-sklaim, or “strong people,” and their neighbors, the Makah, called them klo-lub, or “clam people.” In 1847, Ediz Hook was named for the Klallam Indian village, which became Port Angeles. Tatoosh Island, a 20-acre island lying one-half mile off Cape Flattery, was named by John Meares to commemorate a Nootka (Vancouver Island) Indian chief named Tatoochatticus, according to Sandy Nestor, author of “Our Native American Legacy: Northwest Towns with Indian Names.” The island has had other names, according to an article on historylink. org. Spanish explorers called it Isla de Punto de Martinez for Juan Jose Martinez, second-in-command and navigator on Juan Perez’s ship Santiago, which traversed the coast in 1774. English fur trader Charles Duncan labeled it Green Island in 1788. However, the name of the Makah chief, Tatoosh, as understood by later English explorers, became customary usage for the rocky feature. James G. Swan (1818-1900), a 19th century ethnographer who lived among the Makah for three years, recorded the Makah’s name for the island as “Chadi.” Ozette, whose name has no translation, is one of four Makah villages, now an archaeological site, as well as a river, lake, Indian reservation and campground. The Quillayute River is named for the Quileute people who lived at its mouth. The name might refer in turn to the river’s description as “river with no head,” since its short six-mile length starts at the confluence of the Bogachiel and Sol Duc rivers. Hoh River is named for a band of the Quileute tribe who made the land around the river valley their home. Kalaloch is a Quinault Indian term for “sheltered landing,” recognizing the freshwater lagoon’s safety for canoes. Queets is named for the resident Quaitso Indians, closely related to the Quinault. Pysht River comes from the Chinook jargon term for “fish.” Elwha River, home of elk, comes

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Cape Flattery got its name from Captain James Cook, renowned world explorer of the 1700s. When Cook came to the cape, the northwestern most point of Washington and the southern entrance to the Strait of Juan de Fuca, he wrote that ‘there appeared to be a small opening that flattered us with hopes of finding a harbor there.’ Photo by Brenda Hanrahan from an Indian word for “elk.” Sekiu comes from an Indian word meaning “calm water.” For years, Sequim’s name was thought to mean “quiet water” from a Klallam word, such-e-kwai-ing. But in 2010, the Jamestown S’Klallam tribe, whose elders were working with a linguist and creating a Klallam language website, announced that the correct translation is “place for going to shoot,” referring to the once plentiful elk and waterfowl game of the Sequim-Dungeness Valley. Chimacum is the name of the tribe who lived in the area. Kilisut Harbor off Marrowstone Island gets its name from a Klallam term meaning “protected waters.” Near Port Ludlow, Mats Mats Bay’s shallow entry makes the tide a critical factor in entering and exiting. Appropriately enough, its name, a Klallam term, means “opened and closed.” Dabob Bay is the largest bay on the western shore of Hood Canal. It’s name comes from “Dabop,” a word of unknown meaning. Toandos Peninsula’s name comes from a phonetic adaption of tu-anhu, meaning “portage.” The term also gave name to the resident Twana tribe. The Quilcene rivers, bay and town

are named for a Twana band, who got their name from others in a word meaning “salt-water people.” Dosewallips comes from Doswail-opsh, a man in Twana mythology and S’Klallam legend who was turned into a mountain that is the source of the river. Duckabush takes it name from dohi-a-boos, an Indian word meaning “reddish face” for the area mountain bluffs.

INCIDENTS

The early explorers kept detailed logbooks and journals, so we have written contemporaneous accounts, often from more than one person, of the kind of incidents that gave rise to place names. Cape Flattery got its name from Captain James Cook, renowned world explorer of the 1700s. He and his crew were cruising the coast, looking for the Inside Passage, a rumored waterway that would take ships across the country and an easy trade route with a large reward for its finder. When Cook came to the cape, the northwestern most point of Washington and the southern entrance to the Strait of Juan de Fuca, on March 22, 1778, he wrote that “there appeared to be a small opening that

flattered us with hopes of finding a harbor there.” He was using the language of his day, in this case “flattery,” meaning gratifying deception or delusion, not the overblown praise which is today’s common understanding of the term. Cook did not find the hoped-for harbor or the Strait of Juan de Fuca, owing to bad weather. But Cape Flattery remains a monument to caution in prediction, and a pretty spectacular one. The Flattery Rocks, located a few miles south off Cape Alava, were named by explorer George Vancouver when he came along a few years later. He named them so to end sailors’ confusion as to the exact location of Cape Flattery, since the rocks and the cape both have tall rock formations. Destruction Island takes its name from a September 1787 incident. Capt. Charles Barkley anchored his 400-ton ship equipped with 20 mounted guns near the island and sent a crew ashore for water at the mouth of a river. While working at filling the ship’s fresh water casks, Hoh Indians suddenly emerged from the forest to kill the entire shore party. Barkley named the river Destruction River.


EXPLORER TRIBUTES

The Strait of Juan de Fuca is named for a Greek explorer, Juan de Fuca, whose actual name was Apostolos Valerianos. He claimed to have found the strait that now bears his name in 1592. Discrepancies in his story cast doubt on his actual discovery, but there is no doubt that his tale spurred exploration. Port Angeles was named Puerto de Nuestra Senora de Los Angeles on Aug. 2, 1791, according to the Catholic Church calendar indicating The Lady of Angels for that day. Dungeness Spit was named by Vancouver on April 30, 1792, in a brief visit and after a famous headland on the south coast of Kent in England, which he thought it resembled. The Dungeness name stuck even though Spanish explorer Manuel Quimper, in a visit lasting two weeks, had named it Punta de Santa Cruz two years before. The Dungeness name later was attached to a river and then to a crab. On May 6, 1792, Vancouver named Hood Canal after Lord Samuel Hood, a popular naval leader of the time. Oregon’s Mount Hood has the same inspiration. On the same trip, Vancouver named Marrowstone Island for its hard, clay-like soil, which he was familiar with in England. La Push is a corruption of the French word la bouche, meaning “the mouth,” referring to its location at the mouth of the Quillayute River. Mount Olympus, the highest peak on the peninsula, was named by Captain John Meares, an English fur trader, on July 4, 1788, in tribute to the

home of the Greek gods.

SPECIFIC PEOPLE

Cape Alava takes its name from Brigadier Jose Manuel de Alava, Spanish commissioner for the third and final Nootka Convention in 1794, and overseer of Spanish withdrawal from the Nootka Sound in March 1795. In 1847, Neah Bay was named by the British for a local Makah chieftain named Deeah, pronounced nee-ah, although it had been named Bahia de Nunez Gaono for a Spanish admiral in 1790 by the Spanish, Poverty Bay by American fur traders and Scarborough Harbor for a Hudson’s Bay man by Charles Wilkes in 1841. Mora, north across the river from La Push, was named for the Swedish birthplace of K.O. Erikson, owner of its principal businesses, hotel and post office, in 1900. The name was changed from an earlier 1891 name of “Boston” that caused confusion in mail delivery. Uncas Road in Port Townsend was named for a Mohegan chief in “The Leatherstocking Tales” by James Fenimore Cooper by early settlers on whose land a town was platted, the Cooper family. Uncas means “the fox who circles.” Port Townsend takes its name from the Marquis Lord Townshend, an important member of the Board of Admiralty that chose Capt. George Vancouver to lead its mapping expedition. Vancouver bestowed the name on the bay in 1792; the town took the name at its founding in 1851. Port Hadlock is named for its founder, Samuel

Hadlock. Brinnon is named for early settler Ewell P. Brinnon. Nordland is named for Peter Nordby, owner of the townsite land circa 1890. Port Ludlow was named for Lt. Augustus C. Ludlow, killed in a sea battle of the War of 1812. Egg and I Road takes its name from the 1945 best-seller written in Jefferson County by Betty MacDonald, who resided on County Road No. 16. The road was officially renamed on Feb. 3, 1981, although it was popularly called Egg & I since 1946. Tubal Cain Mine is named after Tubal-Cain, a character mentioned in the Bible. The Book of Genesis 4:22 says Tubal-Cain was a “forger of all instruments of bronze and iron.” In 1901, Silas Marple of Brinnon filed mining claims near Buckhorn Peak, calling his mining outfit Tubal Cain Copper and Manganese Mining Co.

REFERENCES

The following were used as resources in the MEMORY CAREwriting WITH of this story:

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“Washington State Place Names: From Alki to Yelm” by Doug Brokenshire; “Washington State Place Names” by James Wendell Phillips; “A Guide to the Indian Tribes of the Pacific Northwest” by Robert H. Ruby and John A Brown; “Exploring Washington’s Past: A Road Guide to History” by Ruth Kirk and Carmela Alexander; “A Voyage of Discovery to the North Pacific Ocean and Round the World, 1791-1795” by George Vancouver, W. Kaye Lamb; and “The Works of Hubert Howe Bancroft: History of the Northwest Coast, 1894” by Hubert Howe Bancroft

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The West End

Place names rooted in the Quileute language By Christi Baron Long before the first white settlers arrived on the West End and began naming rivers, lakes, creeks and other notable locations, the Quileute people already had a name for just about everything. They not only named the rivers but would name notable locations along the waterways, such as words for places like “sticking up at the river mouth place” or “bushes hanging down” or “maple tree log jam.” The Quileute did not usually name locations after individuals. The Quileute live on the western side of the Olympic Peninsula. Their traditional territory includes the watersheds of the Sol Duc, Calawah, Bogachiel and Dickey rivers and extends from the Olympic highlands to the Pacific Ocean. The Quileute Reservation is in La Push, a village located at the mouth of the Quillayute River. There are various anglicized spellings of Kwo ‘Iiyo,’ — the spelling (pronunciation) in the Quileute language for “Qulieute” — that have come into use over time, such as Quileute, Quillayute, Quiliute and Quillehuyt. It is thought that the word Quileute might even derive from the word meaning “name.” Quileute names once existed for thousands of places on the West End. While many places today no longer bare the name given them by the Quileute, many West End locations still have a version of the original Quileute word. The pioneers found those words/ names difficult to pronounce, so the settlers made them easier to say. Over time, the Quileute adopted the English names and the new language.

THE DICKEY RIVER

Today the signs before the bridge say Dickey River, but originally it was Dix(w)odachtada [dickwo-DAH-ch-tuh-dah]. The original meaning of this name has been lost over time, but those familiar with the Quileute language say it doesn’t mean “smoky water,” as some Washington place name books say it does. It’s a Quileute word because it ends in –tada, which means “smells or tastes like,” according to

author Dr. Jay Powell. Powell has worked in archaeology, linguistics, translation, university teaching and cultural revitalization. Over a period of 40 years, he collaborated with Vickie Jensen in the research and writing of more than 40 books on the Native languages and cultures of the American Northwest Coast. He now serves as a consultant for a number of Native groups in the state and British Columbia. Powell has done anthropological and linguistic research with the Quileute and Hoh tribes from the 1960s to the present. What the first part of the word means — what the land or water smells or tastes like — is not known. Apparently the white settlers found the name too long and at some point, it got shortened, and everyone went along with it. Many of the place names used today have a meaning and for some the meaning — if there was one — is long lost. Powell explains a name that was used thousands of years ago probably meant something in the old Chimacuan proto-language that Quileute and the now-extinct sister language Chimacum derived from.

A QUILEUTE STORY ABOUT THE DICKEY, AS TOLD TO JAY POWELL

In the old days, there was a Dix(w)odachtada (Dickey River man) who had no chiefly names or slaves or parents to create status for him by doing the right ceremonies and generously giving things away. He wanted to be somebody. He wanted to marry a high-status woman so his children would be noble people, but he couldn’t even give a girl’s parents a small gift, which is the way Quileute chiefly families decided who their daughters would marry back then. So the young man went up to the little lake — really a big pond that didn’t even have a name — off the upper Dickey River. There, he tried to get a powerful taxi.lit (tuh-HAY-lit, “guardian spirit”). After many days, he caught a frog and, on a whim, skinned it. And when it was dry, he discovered that he could stretch the frog skin big enough so that he could actually put it on like a costume. He discovered that when he did put it on, he had all the frog’s powers.

Winter 2017 LOP 21


Above: This Dickey River cable bridge photo was taken near Mora by Fannie Taylor around 1906. Photo from the Forks Timber Museum Below: Early settlers built this school at Shuwah around 1890. Photo by Eleanor Thornton Now the Old People knew that frogs are very powerful spirit creatures because they can live in two worlds: in air on land and in the water. When the Dickey River man had that frog skin on, he could go underwater and catch a lot of bluebacks that he took down to his village by the canoe-load. He quickly became thought of as a powerful fisherman and was invited to join the T’sqyik, the fisherman’s spirit society. He invited chiefs to ha?wok(w)sil (hah-WOKE-hw-sill, “potlatches”) and had big hereditary names put on him. He commissioned canoes and

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bought slaves. And finally he was invited by a chiefly family up on the Sol Duc to come and court their daughter. Her family was happy to have him. The couple moved up to the little lake that he named Haga’y-sh.ksa, and they continued to grow in reputation. But now, when he put on the frog skin, each time it was harder to get off. And one day he almost couldn’t get it off. For some time he didn’t put the frog skin on, but soon the family was hungry, and he had to know if that source of wealth was being cut off to him. He told his wife that something might happen to him, and if it did, she should return to her family. That afternoon, having caught a pile of fish, he struggled and struggled, but the frog skin wouldn’t come off. He went back into the lake and there he stayed. His wife didn’t obey the instructions he had given her, and she lived on alone at the lake until she died. The Old People reported that people sometimes saw a frog as big as a bear in the shadows of the lake.

There used to be a trail from the Dickey River, up West Gunderson Creek and across the area of seasonal ponds and swamp to Soowaq(w) (Shuwah), a mile and a half to the east.


When the logging railroad grade was built, it followed an Indian path, one of the many trails through the woods that once were all over the county. The trail seems to have resulted in the Shuwah and Dickey people visiting and hunting together a lot. The Shuwah was a settlement site along the Sol Duc River, also referred to as bo?lak(w,) meaning “turbulent.” The original meaning of Shuwah has been lost.

THE SOL DUC

THE BOGACHIEL

The two forks of the Calawah River originate in the Olympic National Forest and Park and flow westward to join the Bogachiel. The Quileute name qaalo?waa (ca-la-wa), meaning “middle river,” is dubbed so because it flows between the Sol Duc and the Bogachiel rivers. Other spellings on early maps also appear as “Calawa” and “Killiwah.” Locals can usually tell a visitor or a newcomer by the way they pronounce Calawah and Bogachiel. The Quileute language is classified linguistically in a family by itself. The tribe has produced several books to enhance the Quileute language. Proceeds from the books benefit

cultural programs, and more books are to follow. Jensen and Powell have worked with Quileute tribal members to create these books, which are available for sale at Peak 6 on the Upper Hoh Road, Chinook Pharmacy in Forks and

Oceanside Resort in La Push. Information for this article was compiled from Kwashkwash Squawks, Bayak Newsletters by Jay Powell and Place Names of the Quileute Indians by J.V. Powell, William Penn and others (July 1972).

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The name of the Bogachiel River, Bok(w)ach?l, or “muddy water,” is one Quileute place name that lives

THE CALAWAH RIVER

The Sol Duc and Bogachiel rivers meet near Mora. A person is seen in the photo in a canoe. Photo provided by Forks Timber Museum

7C1881397

The Soliltak(w), or Soleduck, Sol Duc, or even Solduc, is like a lot of Quileute place names, the meaning is lost. Many place name books say that the Quileute name means “sparkling waters” or “magic waters” or that it was named by Spanish explorers who combined the Spanish word for sun (sol) with an English word. Powell believes all the spelling versions are an attempt to use the Quileute name.

up to its naming. Quileutes have grown up knowing the Bogachiel watershed was their territory. Its existence plays a large role in the tribe’s creation story. The word “bogachiel,” as it is written and said, is an English pronunciation of the Quileute name for the river. Bok(w)a, “muddy” and -ch?l is a suffix that means “a strong flow of fresh water.”

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Y R E V I L E D L A l I o t C x e E s t s P i S t Stamp Society philatelllecting o c p Strai m a t s f o s t i f e n e b the Story and photos by Laura Lofgren On Nov. 15, 1864, the word “philately” first appeared. It was coined by French stamp collector Georges Herpin in an article for the French magazine “Collectionneur de Timbre-Poste.” Philately, the collection and study of postage stamps, has obscure origins in 19th century England. The country introduced the world’s first postage stamp — the Penny Black — in 1840, according to Mary H. Lawson of the National Postal Museum. A new field of interest, postal history, emerged as more countries issued stamps, and mail burgeoned within and among nations. This field’s focus is not only the history of the postal systems but also the history of related uses of stamps on mail. Philately, then, encompasses not only stamps per se, Lawson said, but also a broad-based interpretation of the physical mail. Stamp collectors, or philatelists, through the

24 LOP Winter 2017

ages can also be considered as historians, then, and the members of Sequim’s Strait Stamp Society know their stamps. Cathie Osborne, secretary, treasurer and show chairperson of the club, brings joy and an electric charge to what might be considered by some as a “boring” hobby. “We have a lot of fun,” Osborne said of the club, whose members range from the young to the young at heart. “If you need a hobby, you should try stamp collecting to see if it’ll fit what you need. (It) can be done by any age and is stimulating for the mind.”

CLUB HISTORY, SHOWS

The Strait Stamp Society is a chapter of the American Philatelic Society (www.stamps.org), which is the largest nonprofit organization for stamp collectors in the world, and Northwest Federation of Stamp Clubs, the regional

organization that encompasses Alaska, Idaho, Montana, Oregon and Washington, as well as British Columbia and Alberta in Canada. The Strait Stamp Society was first started in 1973, and Osborne has been there from the beginning. In 1994, the club had its first stamp show, where philatelists could come and show off their collections. “It’s encouraged our people to show off what they’ve got,” Osborne said. With each event, a special cancellation is produced. The club used the Sequim city logo for its first show. A cancellation is a postal marking applied on a postage stamp or postal stationery to deface the stamp and prevent its re-use. Cancellations come in a huge variety of designs, shapes, sizes and colors, and many philatelist collect them. People travel from all over the Pacific Northwest to attend the Strait Stamp Show, including collectors from Oregon, Idaho and Canada.


The most recent show, held in August, brought in a contingent of Canadian visitors. To celebrate the country’s 150th anniversary, Sequim club members offered an anniversary cancellation. At each show, attendees will find exhibits ranging from letters and cancellations from post offices closed on the peninsula to displays of lighthouse stamps. Exhibits are displayed in frames. Other collections are displayed in binders. Several dealers come from the Seattle and Portland areas to share their collections and offer sales of stamps. Those looking to add to their collections create relationships with dealers. “Collectors will correspond with dealers to get stamps they’re looking for,” Osborne said. “Stamp people take care of stamp people,” she added. While stamp-collecting might seem like an older adult hobby, the members of the Strait Stamp Society encourage kids to start their own collections. At the show, kids get free stamps and are shown collections that might interest them. Popular children’s themes are dinosaurs and trains. A United States Postal Service representative also makes an appearance at the show, providing a special cancellation stamp. Awards are given out at the show, too. Exhibits are judged by public vote and include Most Educational, Most Attractive and Most Unusual for youth and adult collectors. The next Strait Stamp Show is slated for Aug. 11, 2018. It will be held at the Masonic Lodge, 700 S. Fifth Ave. in Sequim, from 9:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. As always, admission is free, and there will be door prizes and a snack bar.

THE COLLECTORS

Richard Tarbuck of Sequim has a collection of stamps displayed on a map of Papua New Guinea. He has been collecting stamps since his youth and boasts quite the international collection. For his display of “Birds of Paradise,” he won an award at the Strait Stamp Show. “People today are missing so much by not collecting,” Tarbuck said. Tarbuck said stamp collecting is a part of him, and his wife, Julie, has taken up the hobby with him. Julie Tarbuck, who has been collecting for about four years, found a love of collecting gorilla stamps. She visited Africa in previous years and now devotes her stamp-collecting time to finding related stamps, including masks. Julie has been winning awards left and right for her collections, Richard said, and is surpassing everyone with her ribbons. “(Stamp collecting) is an evolution of the things that interest me over the past four years,” she said. Philately is very topic-based. Osborne focuses her collections on bells, but

Above: Cathie Osborne share the details of her ‘Sunday Child’ album, a collection of stamps she’s been working on over the past few years that focus on her day of birth. Below: One of Grace Easterbrook’s airmail etiquettes details the history of these stamps and displays her collection. her collection had a different origin. “When I started collecting, I was trying to get all the United States stamps. But then there comes a point where you don’t have the ones that are too expensive,” she said. While traveling abroad, Osborne realized many collectors focus on a specific topic. She decided on bells. “That will be a small collection, something I can afford,” she said. While this might seem like a easy interest, Osborne takes it to another level despite earlier thoughts of a simple collection. “I started with Liberty Bells. Then I found out other countries have Liberty Bells. Then there were Christmas bells. It grew from there. Trains have bells and churches have bells and ships have bells and animals wear bells and dancers wear bells and jesters wear bells. It’s wonderful because I’m never going to run out of stuff to look for.” One collection she has even includes cancellations with the word “bell” in the town name. Once a topic has been chosen by a collector, there are clearly never-ending opportunities to expand on it. Bruce Munn of Port Orchard, who started collecting at age 10, focuses his collections on historical stamps, including coil stamps, which are “printed like money” and wine and narcotics stamps. His extensive collections include stamps with cameos of the Queen of England; watermarked stamps; plate-numbered coils; beer stamps; metered stamps; and digital stamps that one can customize online. By looking through Munn’s work, the history of stamps is easily seen — from 2-cent cancellations to custom stamps with photos of his grand-daughter, it’s easy to see the thoughtful-

ness he’s put in behind his collections. But the beauty of stamp collecting is that is takes many forms. For Grace Easterbrook of Port Ludlow, she loves making stocking-stuffers with stamps. She’ll find little wooden children’s books, sand them down and take Christmas stamps and seals to glue into the books. She then paints and decorates around the stamps to create personalized gifts for friends and family. Her love of 1920s and 1930s stamps translates into not only gifts but into collection albums. Easterbrook and her husband collect “etiquettes,” which are labels used to indicate that a letter is to be sent by airmail.

Winter 2017 LOP 25


She also has an affinity for cinderellas, stamplike objects that are not really a postage stamps, such as promotional labels, poster stamps or souvenir stamps created for a special event or location. While each philatelist has there own way of collecting and displaying their postal history, stamp collecting is not a solo hobby. Within the Strait Stamp Society, a lot sharing happens. When someone says they’re looking for a specific stamp, the other members immediately keep their eyes and ears open to find that stamp. Many members stay in touch with show attendees and dealers, who remember the interests of other collectors. In fact, during the photoshoot for this story, Julie Tarbuck discussed bells with Osborne and mentioned that the piece on the end of a stethoscope was called a bell. Osborne’s reaction of excitement prompted Tarbuck to search for a stethoscope stamp among her collections as we all spoke and shared stories. By the end of the meeting, Tarbuck has found a stethoscope stamp. “There’s a pay-it-forward mentality,” Tarbuck said. “Sharing is part of the fun,” Easterbrook added.

THE SOCIETY

The Strait Stamp Society welcomes any and all interested stamp collectors, whether they are just starting out or have been collecting for ages. While most members are retired, Osborne said, a younger member will pop up every now and then.

Richard Tarbuck, second from left, shares his collection of stamps relating to Antarctica with fellow members of the Strait Stamp Society at Cathie Osborne’s Sequim home. Pictured are Osborne, left; Grace Easterbrook, second from right; and Bruce Munn, right.

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‘It’s an evolution of the “We didn’t realize we were things that have interested me over the past four years’ making memories, we just knew Julie Tarbuck, philatelist, on her personal stamp collections At each meeting, members will focus on a theme and present to other members stamps or other postal objects that relate. According to a recent Sequim Gazette story by Matthew Nash, at their Aug. 3 meeting, their “show and tell” centered on the letter “D” and despite not every piece being directly linked to the letter or even stamps, club members didn’t mind. Collectors spoke about researching Swiss stamps, awaiting letters from friends out of the country with unique postage, working on the Port Townsend ferry and many other things. “I learn something new every time I come up,” Munn said. Stamp collecting can fit almost anybody, Osborne said. It’s a good

we were having fun.” – Winnie the Pooh

hobby for quiet people, and by being a part of a club, members can make new friends who share in the same interests. “I have watched interactions where stamp people take care of other stamp people. It’s just a family. You share so much of the same interest even though you’re not collecting the same thing at all. The spirit is there,” Osborne said. The Strait Stamp Society meets the first Thursday of each month at the Sequim Library, 630 N. Sequim Ave. at 6 p.m. There are no dues expected, but donations are appreciated. For more information about the Strait Stamp Society, visit www. straitstamp.org.

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Port Townsend the perfect spot for THE DAYTRIPPER

a birthday bash

Story and photos by Laura Lofgren Many people on the peninsula call Port Townsend their permanent home. To some, it’s a home away from home during the summer months. And for those of us who live just far enough away from the city that it takes some special planning to enjoy it, it’s a spot to celebrate anniversaries, birthdays, bachelor/bachelorette parties and retirements. In this particular autumn instance, my husband, Michael, brought me to Port Townsend to celebrate my 29th birthday. While we did an overnight trip, our Saturday can easily translate into a day trip for those who only have a few hours to spend in the port city. We started on a Friday evening by checking into The Palace Hotel (www.palacehotelpt.com), which is located fairly dead-center in downtown Port Townsend. While Port Townsend has myriad lodging options, Michael said his main goal was to keep us within two blocks of all birthday festivities. Once settled into the our water-view room named “Miss Lou,” we headed around the corner to the Starlight Room for a movie. The Rose Theatre’s Starlight Room (located on the third floor above the Silverwater Cafe) boasts an intimate theater setting. The main screening room features a view of the downtown and Admiralty Inlet, plus 46 cozy chairs and loveseats for eating and watching the movie. Before grabbing a seat, visit the bar for a soda, a cocktail, a beer, a glass of wine and/or a selection from the small-plates menu. Delicious popcorn with tasty toppings also is an option. With drinks in hand and an order placed (a hostess will bring your food once it’s ready), settle in for one of the most warm and relaxing movie experiences you’ve ever had. The Starlight Room (rosetheatre.com/starlight-room) is a 21 and older venue. After the movie, we headed to the Silverwater Cafe (www.silverwatercafe.com) for a post-film

28 LOP Winter 2017

Top left: Point Hudson Marina is must-see spot, with its many different types of sea vessels, near the end of downtown Port Townsend. Above: The completed articulation of an orca named Hope hangs in the Port Townsend Marine Science Center Natural History Exhibit. reserved dinner. Order a bottle of wine and enjoy some of the finest cuisine Port Townsend has to offer. With its ambience and well-appointed staff, the cafe is a casual but romantic restaurant that satisfies. After finishing a delicious dinner, we headed to Cellar Door (www.cellardoorpt.com) for live music and a nightcap. One of Port Townsend’s premier cocktail bars and live music venues, the Cellar Door is located downstairs in an inky basement-like setting

lined with old brick and illuminated by Edison bulbs and well-maintained fireplaces. It’s a friendly, intimate spot that charges a cover with live music performances. But it’s worth taking the time to experience the old underground speak-easy atmosphere the venue emanates as the music and laughter grow simultaneously into the night. Since the husband and I spent the night, we woke up early the next day to take on a full Port Townsend day trip.


After checking out of our well-appointed accommodations, we grabbed a leisurely breakfast at the Lighthouse Cafe. It appeared we had beaten the initial breakfast rush, as we were the only customers in the joint. Full of coffee, omelet and biscuits and gravy, we decided we needed to waddle it off with some shopping. Downtown Port Townsend is one of my favorite spots to shop local, as there are an array of eclectic and modest stores alike. Starting on the far end of Water Street closest to Point Hudson Marina, we sauntered into appealing stores for Christmas tree ornaments and other knick-knacks for friends. We made it to where downtown “ends” and heading back up the other side of the street for more shopping and aiming for the Northwest Maritime Center. We stopped at Sirens: A Pub of Distinction (www.sirenspub.com) for an afternoon pint and snack in their charming upstairs bar area before heading back downtown. After contemplating witty magnets and funny socks in several more stores and ogling the beautiful Victorian architecture on our way back to where we started, we made our way back to the Point Hudson Marina to take in views of the boats, the bay and the distant mountains of Canada and Washington. Here, there are so many great photo opportunities, and we took advantage before heading inside the Northwest Maritime Center. We perused their gift shop and read up on some maritime tales briefly before taking a break outside to enjoy the view near the boat launch and deciding we

would, in fact, make it to the Port Townsend Marine Science Center (www.ptmsc.org). Once in Fort Worden State Park, where the marine science center is located, it was only $5 per adult to geek out over the marine life the center volunteers care for on a daily basis. In several touch-tanks, we got to feel different clam shell surfaces, see anemone tentacles reach out and retract, watch scallops close tight just from a ripple of water caused by our hands, and graze the slimy body of a sea cucumber. One employee in particular took it upon herself to give us insider information about their needlefish stock, assortment of crabs, cute nudibranchs and grunt sculpins (officially my new favorite marine animal.) We were encouraged to ask questions, and the staff was wonderfully enthusiastic and knowledgable about the animals in the exhibit. The Port Townsend Marine Science Center Natural History Exhibit — a secondary structure that is included in the admission fee — is a short walk away from the dock where the touch-tanks are located. With just enough time for a quick visit, we made our way inside to see the full articulation of Hope, a transient female orca that beached and died near Dungeness Spit in 2002. We heard the story of how her bones were prepared for the full articulation — Hope is one of only six fully-articulated orca skeletons in the United States — and we heard the sad story of the orca herself. We also got to learn from yet another knowl-

edgable volunteer about an unidentified whale vertebrae that was donated to the center recently by a some people from Alaska. While the center is awaiting results, the vertebrae is large enough to be from a blue whale, a fin whale or a gray whale. Hopefully they have an exciting answer soon! As the sun was setting and the center was closing, we decided we’d have one last Port Townsend hurrah before heading back to home. For dinner, we decided Thai food sounded best. We headed straight for Khu Larb Thai (www. khularbthai.com) for some shared sake and scallop pad thai. We were seated quickly and were able to enjoy the decorative back room to ourselves before the dinner rush came in. With quick service and delicious pad thai, we were in an out in less than hour with full bellies and raving reviews. With one last saunter around the block, we reluctantly got back into the car and headed west into the night, back to our cozy Port Angeles home. While any number of community hubs could be a center for celebration, Port Townsend has a special draw to those who are an hour or more away. Maybe it’s the maritime culture, the Victorian charm, or maybe its the well-organized but eclectic downtown area. Whatever floats your adventure-seeking boat, Port Townsend makes the perfect day trip. For more information about the city of Port Townsend, visit enjoypt.com.

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LIVING END

WHAT’S IN A NAME? By Rev. Pam Douglas-Smith “What’s in a name? That which we call a rose by any other name would smell as sweet.” Of all the quotes ever written about the names of things, this one by William Shakespeare is always the first that comes to mind. It holds such wisdom about how names are just words for things and not the things themselves. And yet names are the way in which we communicate the things that are most important in our lives. Hearing the name of a loved one immediately generates an emotional response with timeless memories and profound connections. The name might not be the person, and yet it is a powerful representation and link to them. It is not the rose, but it carries the sweetness of the rose for us. New parents often find that it is not just the idea of having a child to care for that overwhelms them but also the importance of selecting the perfect name. Hours are spent looking through books of names complete with the meaning of each. Discussions are endless about which family names are lovely possibilities and which are absolutely not. Popular names abound and the search for a unique one inspires many. For some parents, the name comes easily even before the birth. There are natural and adoptive parents who during the pregnancy awaken from sleep with a certainty of knowing the coming soul and its name. Others need to look into the eyes of their newborn and see its soul before the name is certain. In many traditions, the name of a child is woven into being with the elements of nature that surround it at its birth. Should a hawk soar overhead near the birth, a name would include the energy of that animal and its blessing upon the child. Should gentle snow fall or a moon turn full during the coming of the child, that too would become part of its name. Whether coming from the creative forces of nature, from prior generations who are honored anew, or inspired moments of soul connection, all are reflective of the power of selecting a name.

THE MEANING OF NAMES

There’s a wonderful play based on a Mark Twain book, “The Diaries of Adam and Eve.” In it all of the animals need to be named. Adam and Eve have some challenges as they each have different names for things. Adam will proudly name something, but then Eve laughs and calls it something else. Eventually, the names stick and are the ones we use now to identify everything from a dog to an eagle to a rhinoceros. The struggle they go through reminds us that what’s actually in a name is quite important and deeply meaningful. There’s a new film coming out this Christmas, “The Man Who Invented

30 LOP Winter 2017

Christmas.” It’s about Charles Dickens and the writing of his classic tale, “A Christmas Carol.” The preview includes a wonderful line about the importance of a name. It comes as Dickens struggles to bring the story alive. He says, “Once you get the name ... the character will appear.” The names we use reflect who we are, where we come from and what we honor. That is why during important turning points in our lives, we may change our names through marriage or by choice. Nicknames are terms of endearment. Calling by negative names demeans and diminishes. Titles express one’s accomplishments. Spiritual names received through shamanic practices or in meditation are profound expressions of our truest inner selves. All are ways to open the portal to each one’s presence in the world. Truly, characters do appear.

THE EVOLUTION OF NAMES

As humanity, we name everything as well as ourselves and each other. This is how we establish meaning and bridges of communication. We name mountains and oceans, animals and plants and stones, places and times, languages and nationalities, spirituality and how we invoke the Divine. We even adjust these names as well as we and our connections evolve — sometimes something new, sometimes a return to an older tradition. Over time, even countries and cities change their names. Look at a globe or atlas from a decade ago and notice our shifting boundaries and emerging geography. We have recently reclaimed the First Peoples name of our local waters as we honor them with the name, the Salish Sea. Names do alter with changing times even as the essence remains. The most important message from the power of names comes in remembering that they are meant to distinguish one from another but not to separate any one as less than. It’s about the beauty of diversity amid essential interconnectedness. It’s about recognizing energy and honoring the blessings of uniqueness. It’s about being known by your name and knowing others by theirs. It’s about a shared world of experience and perception. It’s simply being that rose whose beauty smells as sweet by whatever name it may be called. Maya Angelou calls us into being the sweetness of the rose, into a wider expression of our life energies by whatever name one may use: “The thing to do, it seems to me, is to prepare yourself so you can be a rainbow in somebody else’s cloud. Somebody who may not look like you. May not call God the same name you call God — if they call God at all. I may not dance your dances or speak your language. But be a blessing to somebody. That’s what I think.” Rev. Pam Douglas-Smith is the minister at the Unity Spiritual Enrichment Center in Port Townsend who leads international spiritual pilgrimages. Contact her at revpam@unitypt.org.


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www.olympichearing.com Winter 2017 LOP 31


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Special Sections - Living on the Peninsula, December 2017  

i2017122618220116.pdf

Special Sections - Living on the Peninsula, December 2017  

i2017122618220116.pdf