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A supplement of the Journal of the San Juan Islands, Islands' Sounder and Islands' Weekly

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While exploring the verdant landscapes of the islands, one will find a whole other world if you just look down. Under our feet is a community of wildflowers, mushrooms and more. Favorite finds Giant White Fawn Lily Looking like a cross between a celestial star and a sea creature, the Giant White Fawn Lily is a sight to behold come April. A trek up Young Hill at British Camp on San Juan Island will offer these flowers and their faint perfume. A closer look will also reveal green leaves speckled much like the coat of a fawn. Fairy Slipper The orchid’s fuschia petals make this flower a true stunner in the green landscape of our fair isle. The wildflower has been called the most beautiful terrestrial orchid in North America. It can be viewed from March to June in the cool, deep shade of moist forests. Long bloomers Harsh (Indian) Paintbrush Harsh (Indian) Paintbrush can be seen from April and into August. These red-petaled plants can be located in open, rocky places. At the San Juan Island National Histor-

At right, Stinging nettles are nutritious once the ‘stingers’ are pulverized or cooked away. Far right, the delicious, but hard to find morel mushroom.

ic Park the paintbrush is found at English Camp on San Juan Island. If you really want to hunt these pretty petals down, you can paddle or take a boat to Yellow Island to view Paintbrush. Pearly everlasting You may think pearly everlasting gets its name because you can see it from July well into September, but it’s actually named for the fact that the flowers dry and keep well. The white petaled flowers are viewed in clusters in dry fields and roadsides. Edible bulbs Camas The smaller “common” camas blooms April to June. The large or great camas blooms April to May. These bluish-purple beauties are found in meadows, prairies and hillsides. According to local scientist Russel Barsh, native tribes favored bulbs and tubers that grew and reproduced without seeding or watering: a permaculture requiring only seasonal hoeing and weeding, and an occasional light burn-off of debris and encroaching shrubs. Camas is the

Arctic Raven Gallery

succulent bulb of a lily that stores energy as inulin, a polysaccharide that we cannot digest,” said Barsh. “Long, slow roasting breaks inulin down into fructose (fruit sugar), which is not only pleasantly sweet but also easily digested, a soft ‘fudge’ that could easily be dried and stored, or transported in cedar bark ‘paper’ packaging.” Chocolate Lilies These brown and yellow bell-like blooms can be found from April to June in prairies and grassy bluffs to woodlands and coniferous forests, from sea level to fairly high elevations in the mountains. These lilies were eaten by Native Americans in a fresh-roasted fashion much like water chestnuts.

Edible plants Stinging nettle The plant is rich in vitamins A, C, iron, potassium, manganese, and calcium. You cannot eat these nettles raw, but islanders like to dry them, fry them or boil them. Many people consider them quite tasty once the stingers have been cooked away. Nettles can be found in abundance in sunny areas and are commonly found along rivers, lakes and streams. Morel mushrooms These delicacies are usually found in late March through May. You can find the mushrooms on the edge of forested areas, fields and orchards. According to Larry Lonik in “A Guide to Hunting for Morel Mushrooms,” morels can be found in consecutive years in the same location. You can identify morels by their pitted body, a distinctive conical shape, and the way the bottom of the cap (the pitted part) is attached near the bottom of the stem.

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Here's a tidbit of island info that you may not be aware of, unless you happen to live in the San Juan Islands. The San Juan County Parks Department gives islanders first crack at making reservations at any of its three campgrounds early, and every year. Why? Well, it's because pitching a tent in the San Juans--and rambling through its many parks--is just so gosh-darn popular; the Parks department wants to make sure local residents aren't left out in the cold, so to speak. Still, County Parks is just one of an assortment of public agencies that manage, maintain and make available oodles of recreational opportunities for which the San Juan Islands have long been known. But it is kind of a puzzling patchwork of agencies, really, with a host of federal, state and local entities all playing a role, often partnering together, to keep the doors of outdoor adventure open wide. Here's how they stack up: Washington State Parks You're never far from a state park no matter where you go in the archipelago. In part, that’s because state parks manages no fewer than eight marine parks on "outer islands." These parks are accessible only by boat, kayak or canoe, or by parachute, so we suppose, but strongly discourage. That's in addition to three of the most perennially popular state parks in the San Juans; more on those in a moment. Long-coveted by the boating and kayak crowd, marine parks have long-served as designated rest-stops along the Cascadia Marine Trail and several, such as those on Matia, James, Stuart and Sucia islands, feature a dock, float or pier. Nearly all the marine parks, Griffin Bay, Jones, Posey and Turn Island included, are equipped with campsites, although accommodations are modest, at best, and potable water is rarely provided, so don't forget to bring some with you. Marine parks boast a legion of their own fervent fans, but it's on Orcas, San Juan and Lopez where state parks truly makes a splash. Orcas Island is home to Moran State Park, one of the biggest draws in the entire pool of Washington state parks, and is itself home to the islands' tallest peak, Mount Constitution, at 2,409 feet. Along with 5,000-plus acres of room to roam, Moran's list of enticing features include five freshwater lakes, an alluring mix of alpine meadows and old growth forests, an observation tower made of stone at the summit of Mount Constitution--built in 1936 by the Depression-era Civilian Conservation Corps--a swim area, playground, 151 campsites and more than 35 miles of hiking trails, some of which are open to horseback riding and mountain bikes. On San Juan, Lime Kiln State Park and its historic lighthouse sit smack dab in the middle of the island's deliriously scenic westside, right on the waterfront, overlooking Haro Strait, with picture-perfect views on the west-

ern horizon of the Olympic Mountains and Canada's Vancouver Island, and the provincial capitol of Victoria. While it has no campsites, Lime Kiln State Park does boast many a treelined hiking trail that meander up and down the bulky westside bluffs. Perhaps best of all, Lime Kiln is also known as Whale Watch Park, officially, that is, because the semi-resident orca whales pass by the park with such frequency, especially in the months of spring, summer and fall.

Lopez Island's Spencer Spit Park features nearly two miles of saltwater shoreline that stretch along the picturesque waterfront of Swifts Bay and Lopez Sound. The park gets its name from a rocky spit, home to a rustic clam-shucking shack, that juts out toward nearby Frost Island like the tip of a spear, and that separates those two bodies of water. While Spencer Spit is no match for Moran size-wise, the 138-acre park boasts 16 mooring buoys, 42 campsites and has long been favored by boaters. (For more on Washington State Parks marine parks and campgrounds visit www.parks.wa.gov). National Parks Service, BLM With the stroke of a pen, President Obama ushered in a new era of guardianship for the many rocks, reefs, historic sites

and scenic open spaces supervised by the Bureau of Land Management when he established the San Juan Islands National Monument in March 2013. While the monument consists quite literally of numerous dots on the map surrounded by saltwater, it is also home to many of the most cherished recreational sites in the San Juans, such as Watmough Bay (Lopez). There are tourist attractions as well, like the historic lighthouse on Patos Island and the one on Turn Island, and the one situated at the south end of San Juan Island, at Cattle Point. (For more on the National Monument, see page 13). San Juan Island National Historical Park Established in 1966, San Juan Island National Historical Park was created to commemorate the island's 12-year joint occupation by British and U.S. troops (1860-1872) and the peaceful resolution of a hotly contested international border dispute, more commonly referred to as The Pig War. Initially, the Historical Park consisted of two large swaths of land on the westside of the island, about 10 miles apart; American Camp at the south end, where U.S. troops erected their fortifications, and English Camp to the north, where British Royal Marines set up their own encampment along the shoreline of Garrison Bay. The boundaries of English Camp have expanded considerably in recent years, and now include Mitchell Hill, a 320acre former state-managed recreation area, and 70 acres on the Wescott Bay waterfront, home of a seafood farm and former Boy Scout camp. (For more on SJI National Historical Park, its history and programs, see pages 5-12) San Juan County Parks With 17 parks in all, including three campgrounds and 14 designated for day-use, San Juan County Parks covers a lot of ground. Scattered here and there across the four ferry-served islands, nearly all of the day-use parks are situated on the shoreline and each offers its own unique opportunity to kick back, relax or revel in the waterfront atmosphere. Whether you're in search of an ideal spot to break open a picnic basket, settle down with a good book, or to dip your toes in

a tide pool, any of the day-use parks will certainly fit the bill. For an extended stay in the great outdoors, the county's three parks are unsurpassed and, since all three are located at the water's edge, each offers easy access in and out of the waters of the Salish Sea. Newly renovated Odlin Park, located about a mile south of the Lopez Island ferry landing, boasts a dock, boat ramp, mooring buoys, softball field, sheltered picnic area and no fewer than 30 campsites, nine of which are near the beach. The 80-acre campground's network of meandering woodland trails offer excellent opportunities for outdoor excursions for hikers of all stripes. Situated on the banks of picturesque Indian Cove, Shaw Island County Park is home to the San Juans' longest stretch of white sandy beach, at 4,610 feet, in addition to a picnic shelter, boat ramp (for shallow draft vessels) and a dozen campsites. It's only a hop-skip-and-jump from the ferry landing, two miles in all. Long-treasured by boaters, kayakers and campers alike, San Juan County Park sits on the banks of Andrews Bay and Smallpox Bay, on the westside of San Juan Island. The 20 viewBeautiful from the campground extends San Juan out across Haro Strait to Vancouver County Land BankIsland

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Land Bank Commission meetings are open to the public.

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vation agency created by voters more than two decades ago and funded through a 1 percent excise tax on local real estate sales, the Land Bank oversees and manages 20 separate preserves, in addition to a host of conservation easements on private property, scattered throughout the islands. If it's a scenic view, hefty hike or peaceful stroll through the woods or along the waterfront that you're after, plot a course for Turtleback Mountain (Orcas), Lime Kiln Preserve (San Juan) or The Spit on Lopez Island. You won't be disappointed. (For more about the Land Bank, its mission and its preserves, visit www.sjclandbank.org). San Juan Island Park & Recreation District (Island Rec) Big fun often comes in small packages.

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San Juan Island Park & Recreation District, aka Island Rec, manages four parks in Friday Harbor that won't win prize for size, but where family fun and lively time for your four-legged friend reign supreme. The Fairgrounds Family Park and The Skate Park are located side by side at the county fairgrounds on Argyle Avenue. The family park features a kid-friendly playground, large barbecue and covered picnic shelter; the skate park, well, it's a skatepark, where skateboarders test their mettle and try out new tricks in the park's ramps, bumps and bowl (Helmets and pads are recommended). Both parks are open dawn to dusk. Need a place to take your pooch? Give Eddie & Friends Dog Park a try. Located on Mullis Street, next to Browne's Home Center, the 2-acre box is completely enclosed, designed for off-leash activity and features a partition for the small or less gregarious sort. Island Rec's Lafarge Property, aka gravel pit park, was once home to a former mining operation and the pit is its defining feature. However, the park features a one-mile loop around the rim of the pit that's proven popular with runners, and with walkers (dog on leash allowed) and it sports sweeping views of Griffin Bay and the Olympic Mountains on its southwest horizon, as well as snowcapped Mount Baker to the East. It's also within walking distance of the ferry landing. (For more on Island Rec parks and programs, visit www.islandrec.org, or call (360) 378-4953).

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Petro San Juan Fuels, Lubricants, Welding Supplies 605 Mullis Street, Friday Harbor • 378-5122 STEP BACK IN TIME and visit several historic structures including a pioneer log cabin and the original 1890’s San Juan County Jail. Located a short distance from the ferry in Friday Harbor Hours: May–September, Wed.–Sat. 10-4, Sun. 1-4 April–October, Sat. 1 – 4 November–March by appointment Tours of the museum can be made at other times and days by appointment.

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National Park Service U.S. Department of the Interior

San Juan Island National Historical Park nps.gov/sajh

2014-2015 Guide to American and English Camps Inside this issue

Park founded to celebrate peace and nature



ne hundred and fifty-one years ago, an American farmer named Lyman Cutlar shot and killed a Hudson’s Bay Company pig rooting in his San Juan Island potato patch. In so doing, he nearly started a war between the United States and Great Britain. Fortunately, men of vision and moral authority on both sides realized the folly of bloodshed over a 54-square-mile island far from the seats of power—thus the creation of San Juan Island National Historical Park. To learn more about the Pig War, please turn to the next page.

American and English camps offer numerous hiking trails. Browse our maps and trail guide to find one that suits you. (Pages 8 & 9)


English Camp’s commissary, blockhouse and formal garden sit at the edge of the embankment on Garrison Bay.

Public transportation to English and American camps San Juan Transit & Tours: 378-8887. Regularly scheduled routes north to English Camp and south to American Camps during the summer season. Walk on the ferry and enjoy some of the most spectacular hiking trails in the region. Bob’s Taxi & Tours: 378-6777 or (877) 4-TAXIBOB. Service to all points on request.

Island Bicycles: 378-4941. Bicycles. Open daily. Susie’s Mopeds: 378-5244 or (800) 532-0087. Mopeds and automobiles. Friday Harbor Marine: 378-6202. Electric boats, runabouts, kayaks, fishing kayaks, dive shop, sailing school and high-speed water taxis.

San Juan Taxi: 378-3550 or 378TAXI. Bike and kayak racks on all vehicles.

M&W Rental Cars: 378-2794 or (800) 323-6037 Automobile and van rentals and automobile sales.

Classic Cab Company 378-7519.

Island Tours/Taxi: 378-4453.

From living history to nature to evenings of song and dance, it’s all here. Check our program guide. (Pages 3 & 6)

Climate Change Acquisition

Learn more about a dynamic speaker series about Climate Change scheduled June through September in venues in Friday Harbor, as well as on Orcas and Lopez Islands. (Page 11)

Island Marble

Find out about the park’s continuing efforts at American Camp to ensure the survival of the rare island marble butterfly. (Page 12)

Basic information

National Park Service U.S. Department of the Interior

San Juan Island National Historical Park Superintendent Lee Taylor

Contact Information Superintendent San Juan Island NHP P.O. Box 429 Friday Harbor, WA 98250 e-mail SAJH_Administration@nps.gov Administration (360) 378-2240, ext. 2221 FAX: (360) 378-2615 Visitor Services (360) 378-2240, ext. 2233 Web site www.nps.gov/sajh Follow us on Facebook The park is administered by the National Park Service, U.S. Department of the Interior. Cover: Capt. Geoffrey Phipps Hornby was commander of HMS Tribune, a 31-gun steam frigate assigned to the Royal Navy’s Pacific Station. Hornby’s cool demeanor in dealing with the U.S. Army’s Capt. George E. Pickett was largely responsible for heading off war over San Juan Island. He would later be knighted and become an Admiral of the Fleet, thus following in the footsteps of his father, Adm. Phipps Hornby, a former Pacific Station commander. This guide is published in cooperation with The Journal of the San Juan Islands. The National Park Service cannot guarantee the relevance, timeliness or accuracy of the materials provided by the advertisers or other organizations, nor does the NPS endorse other organizations or their views, products or services.


The Pig War of 1859: A close call

n July 27, 1859, George E. Pickett’s Company D, 9th Infantry, arrived on San Juan Island with a mission to protect United States citizens from the British government on Vancouver Island. The reason? An American settler named Lyman Cutlar had shot a pig belonging to the Hudson’s Bay Company. Everyone overreacted, particularly U.S. Department of Oregon commander Brig. Gen. William S. Harney, who had issued Pickett his orders. Ownership of the entire San Juan Island group had been in limbo since the signing of the Oregon Treaty in 1846. The treaty gave the United States lands south of the 49th parallel, extending the boundary to the “middle of the channel, which separates the continent from Vancouver Island.” There are actually two channels—Haro Strait nearest Vancouver Island and Rosario Strait nearer the mainland. The San Juan Islands lie between the two. Britain insisted on the Rosario Strait; the U.S., Haro Strait. Thus, both sides claimed the archipelago. To solidify the British claim, the Hudson’s Bay Company in 1853 established Belle Vue Sheep Farm on the southern end of the island. The Americans, meanwhile, believed the San Juans belonged to them. By 1859 about


18 Americans, including Cutlar, had settled on San Juan Island in anticipation of official American possession. Neither group acknowledged the jurisdiction or taxing authority of the other. Several incidents ensued over the next several years, culminating in Cutlar’s pig murder in June 1859. British authorities threatened

Cutlar with arrest if he did not pay for the pig. This is what compelled Harney to dispatch Pickett to San Juan Island. British Columbia Gov. James Douglas responded by sending three warships under Royal Navy Capt. Geoffrey Phipps Hornby to dislodge Pickett. Hornby’s initial orders were to remove Pickett by force if he refused to leave peaceably. But soon after Hornby

arrived in Griffin Bay, Douglas, at the urging of the senior Royal Navy officer in the area, dispatched a messenger with a new order proposing a joint military occupation of the island. Pickett refused and asked Harney for reinforcements. Soon nearly 500 U.S. troops—now under command of Lt. Col. Silas Casey— occupied the island bolstered by eight naval guns. After observing the guns being emplaced, Hornby sought permission to assault the heights and spike the guns. This was rejected by Pacific Station commander Rear Adm. R. Lambert Baynes. A stalemate ensued for more than three months until U.S. Army commander Lt. Gen. Winfield Scott was dispatched from the East Coast to mediate the crisis. Scott and Douglas negotiated a stand-down while the two governments arranged a joint military occupation of the island. The Americans remained at Cattle Point, and the Royal Marines established a camp 13 miles north in March 1860. The joint occupation ended 12 years later when Kaiser Wilhelm I of Germany, acting as arbitrator, selected a three-man commission who settled the dispute by awarding the San Juan Islands to the United States. Thus ended the so-called Pig War—the pig the only casualty.

Fast facts about park hours and laws

oth park units are day-useonly. Hours are: English Camp: Dawn to 11 p.m.. Royal Marine Barracks contact station is open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily, June 2 to September 2. American Camp: Dawn to 11 p.m. Visitor Center is open 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily, June 2 to September 2. The visitor center is open 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., Wednesday-Sunday, during the winter season. Pets must be kept on a leash within park boundaries. Bags

are provided to clean up after them. Please respect the leash law—it not only protects fragile plants and wildlife, but other visitors and their pets as well.

using metal detectors is strictly prohibited. Please do not disturb natural features and ruins. You may collect fruits, nuts, unoccupied seashells and mushrooms. English and American camps Off-road travel (by four-wheeled are important archaeological areas vehicles or mopeds) is not allowed dating back 8,000 years to the time in the park. of the Coast Salish Indians and Use or possession of fireworks is Canadian First Nations peoples. prohibited year-round. Horseback Artifacts are on display at the riding is allowed by permit only. American Camp visitor center. It is unlawful to hunt, trap or Because artifacts are protected under discharge firearms within the park federal law, collecting, digging or boundaries.

2014 Summer Program Guide: something for everyone Weekly Programs Weekly programs scheduled below also are available on request. For information, call 360-378-2240, ext. 2233, or go to www.nps.gov/sajh. Also follow us on Facebook. Pig War Story Guided Walk — Park rangers and volunteers describe events leading up to and including the Pig War and the peaceful joint occupation of San Juan Island by English and American troops. Saturdays, 11 a.m. to noon, June 7 to August 30, American Camp. Captain Delacombe’s English Camp Guided Walk – Join NPS Volunteer Paul Kitchen for this guided walk and learn how the Royal Marines lived during the 12-year joint occupation. Saturdays, 11a.m. to 12:30 p.m., June 7 to August 30, meets in the English Camp parking area. Wildlife in the San Juan Islands —Puzzled by an animal or bird? Wolf Hollow Wildlife Rehabilitation Center staff are here to answer your questions. 1 to 3 p.m., Thursdays, June 5 to August 28, English Camp barracks. Living History: Life during the Joint Military Occupation on San Juan Island — Park rangers and volunteers recreate military and civilian life during the island’s early pioneer period. Activities include blacksmithing, coopering, weaving, needlework and exhibitions of military equipment and skills. Saturdays, noon to 3 p.m., June 7 to August 30, English Camp parade ground. Field Work with Rangers: Prairie Restoration — Join Park Rangers in gathering native plant seeds, cultivating them in tubes or planting the seedlings. Saturdays, 10 a.m. to noon, June 14, July 12, August 16, meets at American Camp visitor center. Birding in the Park — American Camp attracts a variety of birds throughout the summer. Join park

A hiker enjoys the view of the northern end of San Juan Island and the Haro Strait from the summit of Young Hill. The trail leads uphill through forests and across rocky balds from its starting point in the English Camp parking area. A weekly walk is scheduled on this trail, as well as the Frazer Homestead, Salmon Bank and the Jakle’s Lagoon/Mt. Finlayson trails.

staff in enjoying this wonderful island resource. Fridays, 8 to 10 a.m., June 6 to August 29, meets at American Camp visitor center; or by appointment. Call 360-378-2240, ext. 2228 for details. A Walk to the Salmon Bank — Accompany a park ranger or volunteer on this cross-prairie journey to the historic Salmon Bank at South Beach, where springs attracted Indians and Europeans alike. This activity can be strenuous. Thursdays, 2 to 3:30 p.m., June 5 to August 28, American Camp parking area, or by request. Call 360-378-2240, ext. 2233. Contra Dancing at English Camp — Folk singer Michael Cohen and local folk musicians present an evening of traditional folk tunes and dancing for those wishing a turn on the floor. Mondays, 7:30 p.m. to 9 p.m., June 9 to August 18, English Camp barracks. Young Hill/Royal Marine Cemetery Guided Hike — Serious hikers will enjoy this two-hour journey, led by Park Historian Mike Vouri up the south slope of 650-foot Young Hill. The hike can also divert to 410-foot Mitchell Hill. See the Royal Marine Cemetery and the Garry oak woodland. Sundays from 2 to 4 p.m., June 8 to August 31, meets at the north end of the English Camp parking area.

Frazer Homestead Walk — Many American Camp soldiers turned to farming on the island. Learn how agricultural operations changed the character of island landscapes, at American Camp on this guided hike with park historian Mike

Vouri. Wednesdays, 2 to 4 p.m., June 11 to August 27, meets at the American Camp visitor center. (continued on page 10) REDUCE • REUSE • RECYCLE


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Trails and Features Young Hill trail—Hike this fairly steep trail up 650 feet to the top of Young Hill for a panoramic view of the island group’s northwest corner, Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands. Novice walkers should take care to pace themselves as most of the gain is in the last half mile. An exhibit panel identifying geographic features is mounted on an overlook about two-thirds of the way up the hill. Another panel is on the summit. (1.25 mi. from parking area to summit.) Royal Marine Cemetery—The Royal Marine cemetery is about 50 yards off the Young Hill trail, about a third of the way up. Five Royal Marines are interred, and a memorial stone is in place for two other marines. A stone also commemorates a civilian who was accidentally shot by his brother while hunting. Bell Point trail—Walk the mile-long, fairly level trail to Bell Point for a view of Westcott Bay. If you like to harvest shellfish, check with the park ranger at the visitor center for information on licensing, locations, daily limits and red tide warnings. (2-mi. loop.) Self-guided walk—Relive the Royal Marine-era by following the exhibit waysides scattered about the parade ground and Officers Hill. Each sign explains an existing building (or a spot where one once stood) or some aspect of daily life during the joint military occupation of San Juan Island. (.25-mi. loop.) English formal garden—This reconstructed flower and herb garden—originally known as the “strawberry garden”—lies between the officers’ quarters site and the parade ground. The camp’s second commanding officer had the original built for his family to remind them of home. Westcott Bay trail—Follow in the footsteps of the Royal Marines to the park’s newly acquired lands on Westcott Bay. Ask a park ranger for directions to the trail connection completed in 2013 in partnership with the San Juan Island Trails Committee and San Juan County Land Bank. (3-mi. one way.)


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forest. (2.9-mi. round trip) Prairie walks—Primitive tracks criss-cross the prairie and trace the bluff from Grandma’s Cove to South Beach and back to the visitor center via the Redoubt. A great place for viewing orca whales, the redoubt also offers a regional perspective with views Frazer Homestead trail—Trace the route of the old Military Road of Mt. Baker, the Olympic and Cascade ranges, Vancouver Island, from the visitor center north to and on an exceptionally clear day, Rosler Road on this joint project even Mt. Rainier, 130 miles up of the park, San Juan County Land Bank and the San Juan Trails Admiralty Inlet. (2.5-mi. loop.) Committee. Highlights include Grandma’s Cove—Stroll two small prairies and a pine downhill to Self-guided history walk— Relive the Pig War along the trail that starts and finishes in the visitor center parking area. Exhibit waysides along the trail tell the boundary dispute story. (1.25-mi. loop.)

one of the finest beaches on the island and a favorite of San Juan islanders. Use caution when descending the bluff. (.9-mi. round trip.) Jakle’s Lagoon trail—Pick up a self-guided walk booklet, hike along the old roadbed and enjoy the quiet of a Douglas fir, cedar and hemlock canopy. (1.5-mi. to the lagoon.) Mt. Finlayson trail—Hike along the grassy ridge to the top of Mt. Finlayson where you can see Mt. Baker to the east, Mt.

Rainier to the southeast, the Olympic Mountains to the south and Vancouver Island, British Columbia to the west. Be on the alert for horseback riders and ensure your dogs are on leash for the safety of all. (3-mi. loop.) South Beach trail—Follow the track of U.S. Army water wagons from the South Beach springs and enjoy the prairies in this trek starting just below the Redoubt. Raptors dip and soar on the hunt for small mammals and deer feed among tall grasses. (2-mi. round trip from visitor center) UPS TA IRS

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2014 Summer Program Guide: something for everyone (Continued from page 7)

Ball is scheduled 8 to 10 p.m. on Saturday. Karen Haas will present “I Am Always on the Women’s Side - Civil War Vignettes” at 7 p.m., Friday, July 25 in the English Camp barracks. All day, Saturday and Sunday, July 26-27, English Camp parade ground.

Special Programs All programs are free and open to the public, except where noted. Programs are subject to change without prior notice. For updates on additional programs and accessibility information, call San Juan Island National Historical Park at (360) 378-2240, ext. 2233; or visit our web site at www.nps.gov/sajh or find us on Facebook. August 1914: The Year Diplomacy Failed — On the morning of June 28, 1914 Archduke Franz Ferdinand, of Austria-Hungary was assassinated, triggering World War I. Learn how diplomacy failed that summer in this presentation by park historian Mike Vouri. 7 p.m., Saturday, June 21, San Juan Island Library.

fields. Friday July 11 and Thursday, August 21. All shows 7:30 p.m., San Juan Community Theatre. Tickets $15, $8 Student and $5 Student Rush. Call the theater at 360-378-3210 or visit their website at http://sjctheatre.org.

Life and Times of General George Pickett — Mike Vouri and Michael Cohen join with the San Juan Community Theatre in presenting two evenings of drama and song as George Pickett comes back to life to talk about his days on the frontier and Civil War battle-

Landscape Painting Workshops — Join San Juan Island artist Nancy Spaulding to learn how she utilizes photography and sketching on site to create many of her landscapes of American Camp features and vistas. The July program will cover photography and sketching

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subjects on site; in August participants will bring their projects from the first session. 2 p.m., Saturdays, July 12 and August 16, meets at the American Camp visitor center. Pig War to Prairies: Ebey’s Landing National Historical Reserve — Ebey’s Landing interpreter Lynn Hyde offers a history of Whidbey Island’s connections to San Juan Island history and natural history . She also will discuss efforts to preserve the Granville O. Haller house in Coupeville. Haller was one of the U.S. Army officers directly involved in the Pig War crisis. 7 p.m., Friday, July 18, San Juan Island Library. Northwest Pioneer Folkways Demonstrations — Author and educator Janet Oakley will set up at Encampment for demonstrations of pioneer folkways from butter churning to Dutch oven baking and other tasks. Noon to 3 p.m., Saturday, July 26, English Camp parade ground. Encampment 2014 — Park staff, volunteers and re-enactors from throughout the Pacific Northwest and Canada recreate life on San Juan Island at mid-19th century. The Candlelight

Storytelling with Karen Haas— Join storyteller Karen Haas for an entertaining evening of pioneer lore. Highlight of the evening will be her rendition of Thea Foss, on whom the “Tugboat Annie” stories are loosely based. 8:15 p.m., Thursday, July 31, San Juan Island Library. A Weaving Weekend — Weavers from throughout San Juan Island and Washington State will gather for the weekend to demonstrate how European and American Indian and First Nations techniques melded to create woven objects and clothing unique to the Pacific Northwest. All day, Saturday and Sunday, August 2-3, English Camp parade ground. The Victorian Internet: The Coming of Telegraphy on San Juan Island — Learn when the telegraph arrived here and how it affected communications on San Juan Island during the joint occupation in this presentation by Park Ranger Doug Halsey. 7 p.m., Wednesday, August 6, San Juan Island Library. Mapping the San Juan Islands — Join Boyd Pratt, Doug McCutcheon and Mike Vouri in this evening of viewing 1890s images of the San Juan islands by the U.S. Coast Survey’s John Gilbert, contrasted with photographs taken from the same perspective today. 7 p.m., Saturday, August 30, San Juan Island Library.

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Park, Madrona, other sponsors host Climate Change symposium


an Juan County residents and visitors will have an opportunity to learn more about the impacts of climate change through a dynamic speaker series scheduled June through September in venues in Friday Harbor, as well as on Orcas and Lopez Islands. The Climate Action Imperative: Understanding Impacts & Making Choices will feature eight experts on the topic—from oceanographers to botanists, biologists to meteorologists. The series will provide a current look at climate change and what actions are warranted by individuals as well as by our state and nation, according to Ron Zee of the Madrona Institute, a co-sponsor of the series. Lee Taylor, superintendent of San Juan Island National Historical Park, another co-sponsor, emphasized the dramatic ecosystem changes National Parks are experiencing. “The impacts of climate change on national parks are immediate and real--rising sea level, ocean acidification, and increased wildfire to name just a few,” Taylor said. “We need to increase our resilience to these changes here in the Islands and beyond.” All talks are free and scheduled for 7 p.m. at different venues (see list below). Please call 360-378-2240, ext. 2227 or 2228 for information. A concluding session on September 10 will feature State Senator Kevin Ranker, a leading legislative advocate for climate action, along with special guests. The Imperative

Climate change has moved to the forefront of international, national, and state concern. In November 2013, the United Nations Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change released a report stating that climate change will pose sharp risks to the world’s food supply in coming decades, potentially undermining crop production and driving up prices at a time when demand for food is expected to soar. This brought a strong pledge of action from President Barak Obama in his January State of the Union address. In the last eight years, the United States has reduced its share of total carbon pollution more than any other nation. The President noted, however, the effects of climate change will cause harm to western communities from drought and coastal communities from floods. Meanwhile in Washington State, the Climate Legislative Executive Work group in Olympia made their final recommendations to the Washington

State Legislature, recognizing the dire urgency of our climate dilemma and calling for action. In March 2014, the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) released the most comprehensive assessment yet of the effects of climate change on our planet. The report summary provides overwhelming evidence of the scale of these impacts. In late April 2014, Governor Jay Inslee issued an executive order outlining a series of actions to cut carbon emissions in the state and advance development and use of renewable energy and energy efficiency. A task force has been formed to design and implement an emissions reduction program. The third National Climate Assess-


Chad Kruger Director, Center for Sustaining Agriculture & Natural Resources, Washington State University. 7 p.m. Friday Harbor Brickworks.


Lara Whitely Binder Outreach Specialist, Climate Impacts Group and Center for Science in the Earth System, University of Washington. 7 p.m. San Juan Island Grange.

ment, released by the White House last week, warns that the effects of climate change will become increasingly disruptive in the coming years. The President said regarding the Assessment, “ We’ve got to have the public understand this is an issue that is going to impact our kids and our grandkids, unless we do something about it.” Understanding Impacts, Making Choices

The series co-sponsors reflect the multiple fronts addressing climate change in the San Juan Islands: San Juan Island National Historical Park, Madrona Institute, San Juan Islands Conservation District, The League of

Women Voters of the San Juans, San Juan Island Library, San Juan Nature Institute, San Juan County Marine Resources Committee, Northwest Straits Foundation, Stewardship Network of the San Juan Islands, Washington State University Extension Service , San Juan Island Grange #966 and the Agricultural Resources Committee of the San Juan Islands. After each talk, discussion will be encouraged to think global and act local - identifying choices relevant to our community. Plans are also in the works to have related take-home materials See accompanying box for remaining speakers, dates and venues:





Dr. Nicholas Bond Research Meteorologist, University of Washington, Joint Institute for the Study of Atmosphere and Ocean. 7 p.m. Friday Harbor Brickworks.

Rebecca Lofgren Biologist and Member, Glacier Monitoring Team, Mount Rainier National Park, National Park Service. 7 p.m. San Juan Island Library.

Dr. Steven Fradkin Coastal Ecologist and Marine Resources Manager, Olympic National Park, National Park Service. 7 p.m. San Juan Island Library.

Dr. Philip Mote Atmospheric Scientist, Oregon State University, College of Earth, Ocean, and Atmospheric Sciences; Oregon State Climatologist. 7 p.m. Friday Harbor Brickworks.

For additional information about speakers and additional venues visit our website at nps. gov/sajh or the madrona Institute at www.madrona.org; or call 360-378-2240, ext. 2227.

Park continues island marble protection with low-voltage deer fencing


he National Park Service (NPS) has continued its program of installing six-foot electric fence encircling core habitats on the American Camp prairie to protect the rare island marble butterfly host plants from deer browse (or nibbling deer). The reappearance of the island marble butterfly on San Juan Island after nearly 100 years continues to intrigue researchers and enthusiasts throughout the country. It is hoped that this experimental process will offer the butterfly a more optimal chance at survival. In 1998, the island marble (Euchloe ausonides insulanus), thought to be extinct since 1908, was discovered during a prairie butterfly survey at American Camp. The only known specimens had previously been found on Vancouver Island and Gabriola Island in British Columbia. Scientists believed American Camp,

and other locations on San Juan and Lopez islands, had the only viable populations in the world. However in recent years the butterfly has disappeared in the other locales. All that remain are those at American Camp. The battery-operated fencing gives off only a mild shock to dissuade animals, according to Jerald Weaver, park chief of Integrated Resources.

“However, for safety’s sake, visitors should avoid touching the fence,” Weaver said. “As the name suggests, electric fencing carries electric current.” All areas of electric fence are boldly signed, he stressed. “Deer browse (herbivory) is one of the leading causes of egg and larva mortality. By placing the electric fence in butterfly habitat, we hope to reduce this threat and ensure the continued existence of island marbles on the Amer-

ican Camp prairie,” Weaver said. “We have fenced approximately five acres of prairie at several locations.” The electric fence is placed in eight locations: Two each in the vicinity of the redoubt, along the South Beach trail, above Grandma’s Cove, and in the dunes area east of Pickett’s lane. In 2009, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service (USFWS) sponsored a survey in partnership with the NPS to learn more about the natural history of the butterfly, including how far it flies, how long it lives, and whether gender ratios vary in different areas. For information email Weaver at jerald_weaver@nps.gov, or call him at 360-378-2240, ext. 2224. A park ranger (above left) examines an island marble butterfly larva.

South Beach: park provides a sense of place...and recreation

South Beach, once known as the Salmon Banks Beach, was private property until acquisition by the National Park Service in 1966. In this c. 1890-1900 view, Frank Bryant’s house sits near today’s Pickett’s Lane while his buck and rail fence crosses today’s picnic area. Bryant was the son of an American Camp soldier.


or thousands of years, South Beach has been a magnet for human food gathering, habitation and recreation. The first peoples came to fish the shallows of the Salmon Bank that run a quarter mile or more off shore. They also gathered camas and other edible plants from the prairie above the beach and drew water from the three springs along the base of the plateau from Pickett’s Lane west. When Europeans arrived they took note of Indian fishing techniques, the fertile prairie and the fresh water source and by the mid-1890s established fishing camps, first for the 12 fish traps located off shore and then for the purse seining crews that migrated annually up Puget Sound and down the Georgia Strait. Since 1966, the National Park Service has managed South Beach as

a haven for recreation and scientific inquiry. The two uses have not been incompatible over the years. There’s no better place for archaeologists to excavate and analyze one of the most significant sites in the region. But recreation has costs, which can have a heavy impact on the park’s budget. Most of these costs stem from unscheduled clean-up and repairs park staff must make to clear broken glass, scattered trash, defaced picnic tables, unchecked driftwood

fires, not to mention coping with red foxes who expect to be fed after receiving table scraps from picnickers or treats from passing motorists. But the most serious challenge for staff is dismantling driftwood structures. Because of prevailing winds and currents, the beach has always been a collection point for driftwood of all shapes and sizes from storm runoff to industrial logging operations. Some picnickers and beachwalkers

take pleasure in building forts with the logs, then leave them behind for the staff to address in the interest of visitor safety. Maintaining a pristine setting on South Beach is time consuming—distracting staff from other duties— and, in the case of driftwood forts, sometimes dangerous. “We’re asking your cooperation in not building driftwood forts,” said Lee Taylor, park superintendent. “They proliferate so much that they are an eyesore. We’d like the beach in the national park to be wild and natural, without man-made structures.” It is all a part of Leaving No Trace beyond what is left to us by natural and human history, Taylor said. In photo (middle), Mt. Finlayson looms over a wide-open South Beach. The photo was taken in late winter.

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360-370-5950 • 365 Spring St. Friday Harbor Twenty-four years and one day after the Exxon Valdez oil spill devastated marine waters in Alaska, 1,000 acres in our corner of America was designated for permanent protection and enhancement as the San Juan Islands National Monument. Those thousand acres are the crowning jewels of the diadem that is the San Juan archipelago. The protected lands cover all the San Juans, from Chuckanut Rock on the mainland in the east to Turn Point and Kellett Bluff in the west, from Patos and Little Patos Islands in the north to Cattle Point on San Juan Island and Iceberg Point on Lopez Island in the south. There are historic sites, rare habitat and three lighthouses. All of it is accessible by boat and much of it from land.   The story of the National Monument is told by ancient trees and stately lighthouses

watching over stunning, verdant landscapes and waters teeming with hundreds of species of birds, fish and mammals. Mosses growing high on rocky points, orcas cruising in the shadows of lighthouses, bald eagles soaring above picture-perfect points of land. At a time when proposals for coal and oil terminals threaten the Salish Sea with devastation, the Proclamation is a promise to protect, even to enhance, some of the most pristine, dramatic and ecologically diverse lands in Washington. The connection between disaster and designation is found in the many county residents who worked for nearly 20 years to achieve protection for the San Juan Islands. They continue that work every day and they ask that you, as you enjoy the wonders of the National Monument, to help them keep and protect these lands.

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Award-winning series explores the heart and soul of San Juan Island, step-by-step The San Juan Island Trails Committee's "Know Your Island Walk" series evolved from a simple yet inspiring idea–connect people to their community through trails--into an award-winning state program credited for its innovation in just three years. Talk about covering a lot of ground in a short amount of time. Members of the Trails Committee, an all-volunteer assembly operating under the flagship of the San Juan Island Parks and Recreation District, aka Island Rec, not only routinely recruit knowledgable individuals, experts in their field, to lead each of the monthly outings, but they also help to maintain existing trails, blaze new ones and plan for those of the future.

In addition to the KYIW series, the group's crowning achievement, as of today, is arguably the 6-mile long American Camp Trail, which celebrated its grand opening June 1, 2013. The ACT connects the town of Friday Harbor to the woodlands, prairies, shorelines and sweeping vistas of San Juan Island National Historical Park's American Camp by way of a series of interconnected pathways, road-shoulder segments, private-property easements and more than a handful of honest-to-goodness trails. From a leisurely stroll along the town's historic sidewalks to a hefty hike through the Roche Harbor Highlands, to a whimsical walk along the wave-lapped and sometimes wind-swept waterfront of scenic South Beach, to hook up with any Know Your Island Walk is a sure-fire way to get to know not only the heart and soul of San Juan Island, but its great outdoors as well. For more about SJI Trails Committee and KYIW series visit, www.sanjuanislandtrails.org. Monthly Know Your Island Walks menu for late summer, early fall: July 26: Briggs Lake Trail, Saturday, 1-4 p.m. Explore the Roche Harbor Highlands and learn about the recent upgrade of the dam at Briggs Lake in a 4-mile roundtrip walk with volunteer trail builder Mike Buettell. Terrain is slightly hilly, on service roads, rating is moderate; dogs on-leash welcome. Park and meet at the intersection of Roche Harbor and West Valley roads. Aug. 23: Hospital Trail, Saturday, 1-4 p.m. Trail builder and former Alaska National Parks ranger Steve Ulvi heads the expedition and explains the deliberate design of the meandering, newly constructed 1.5-mile at Peace Island Medical Center. Terrain is wooded trail, rating is easy; dogs on-leash welcome. Park and meet at PIMC parking lot, 1117 Spring St. Sept. 27: Public Works Projects, Saturday, 1-4 p.m. Director of San Juan County Public Works Frank Mulcahy serves as guide for a 3-mile roundtrip tour of local public works projects. Terrain is paved road, gentle hills, rating is easy; no dogs allowed. Park and meet and Public Works headquarters, 915 Spring St. Oct. 25: Youth Corps Summer Projects, Saturday, 1-4 p.m. Youth Conservation Corps Program Manager Sarah Hanson, accompanied by corps members, leads a tour of the youth group's 2014 summer projects. Walk details TBA in early October.

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Sept. 20 Lake Ann or Lower Curtis Glacier For an up close and personal view of Mt. Shuksan, much closer than the calendar scene from Picture Lake, this is the hike for you. It has hanging glaciers with active ice avalanches and wild flowers, all from a ridge overlooking Lake Ann. All this is achieved by hiking a well-maintained 4 mile trail from the Austin Pass parking lot above the Mt. Baker Ski area. Open views all along the way. Elevation change is only 100 feet from start to finish, but there are ups and downs along the way. For additional info and sign up, contact Bob Walker at 4683397or email at robwillwalk@hotmail.com.

A group of hikers explore an old-growth forest.

The Lopez Community Trails Network, a trails organization on Lopez Island, is again scheduling a series of hikes open to the public under the title “Go Take a Hike.” Our hike schedule includes a variety of destinations on and off the Island, including both easy beach walks and more strenuous mountain hikes. These monthly hikes are on Saturdays and began in March with our Lopez beach walk. Hikes are at a leisurely pace encouraging exploration and experiencing the wonders of nature. Sign up is by phone or email with the hike leader. Twelve is the usual limit. There is no expense except the sharing of transportation costs when going off island. Call Bob Walker at 468-3397 with any questions. Information about Go Take a Hike and LCTN is at www.LopezTrails.org. July 19 Watson Lakes/Anderson Butte This hike is written up in guide books as an ideal family outing with a number of alpine lakes and view options

and only 800 feet of elevation gain going in. The upper Watson Lake makes a great lunch and turn around spot. It has great views of Mt. Baker and Mt. Shuksan along the way. The distance is five to seven miles round trip depending on which lake and which view point we select. For more info and sign up, contact leader Bob Walker at 468-3397 or email at robwillwalk@hotmail.com. Aug. 16 Yellow Aster Butte On the north side from Mt. Baker just east of the town of Glacier, this hike has alpine meadows, glacial tarns, ponds, wild blueberries and mountain views galore. This is an all day event that is considered moderately strenuous with an eight-mile round trip trail hike gaining 2200 feet of elevation. For more info including car pool arrangements and sign up contact leader Chris Coiley at 468-4090 or email at cjcoiley@yahoo.com.

Oct. 4 Lopez Island bird walk The San Juan Islands are home to a spectacular array of birds from bald eagles to black oyster catchers to herons. Catching a glimpse of a raptor or a waterfowl can be an amazing experience to any island outdoor adventure. So grab your binoculars and get ready for the Lopez Island bird walk. Lead by experienced birder Bob Myhr, this will be a good first bird identification field trip for those that want to check it out. Also, this is a good prep for the annual Audubon Christmas bird count. Contact Bob at 468-2258 about thirty days prior to outing for details of where and when to meet.

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Going for a hike and enjoying the scenery is a favorite island pastime for residents and visitors, but it can often lead to the question “What’s that?” With a wide variety of flora and fauna and a rich history the San Juan Islands are a unique place to experience and learn about the natural splendor that makes the county special. The seasonal staff of naturalists and volunteers offer their outdoor services at Moran State Park. Since 2009 when Moran’s Outdoor School was closed and the position of resident naturalist was cut due to lost funding, Moran State Park

has relied on the efforts of volunteers, college interns and the nonprofit organization Friends of Moran to provide visitors with interesting information and educational experiences. The Western Washington University interns and volunteers have returned to Moran State Park for another season of guided walks, scavenger hunts, and educational fun. “Volunteers are crucial for a successful learning center. We operate seasonally on volunteer staff,” says the Friends of Moran website. “We have some amazing naturalists on hand to answer questions. We can help you set out on a spectacular nature walk, treasure hunt or just

tell you which island you are looking at.” The Summit Learning Center, which opened in May of 2012, is at the heart of the Moran educational experience. It will be open daily from 11 a.m. until 4 p.m. through the summer. Guided walks embark or end at the learning center’s location at the top of Mt. Constitution, across from the Summit Gift Shop. Within the Summit Learning Center visitors will find the 70 gallon tank filled with kokanee fish from Moran Creek Hatchery, the “Newtarium” housing rough skinned newts, and interactive learning experiences. Visitors interested in learning more can join in guided walks, offered daily. The “Newt Walk” embarks from the Summit Learning Center and takes participants along the migra-

tory path of the orange-bellied rough skinned newts that make Summit Lake their home. Or beginning from the Moran Creek Kokanee Hatchery, located near the swimming area of Cascade Lake, follow the waterways that the young land-locked salmon take in their journey through the park and their life cycles. The guided walk ends at the Summit Learning Center to take an up-close look at some of the Moran’s Kokanee. Also in the Summit Learning Center, kids are invited to join in a “treasure hunt” where they are given a list of items to find. The first to collect their “forest booty,” including finding different types of pine cones, locating cedar and fir trees, and varieties of moss, receives a prize.

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Profile for Sound Publishing

Park and Trails Guide - 2014-15 San Juan Islands  


Park and Trails Guide - 2014-15 San Juan Islands