Nguyen Duy Phuc D1909L2

DAMIR DOMA MEN COLLECTION

FASHION LOOKBOOK

Rich and humble. That’s how Damir Doma described the work of the “fiber artist” Sheila Hicks that inspired the stratified, hole-peppered, patch-knit material in this collection.

FASCINATION OF SIMPLICITY

WORKHORSE DESIGNS

Everything in this collection exuded a sense of hardy handicraft design. Well-loved pieces like raw-seamed or hole-filled knitwear, textural bathrobe coats and faded prison striped suits were at once artisanal in nature and yet somehow precious in their journeyman silhouettes. These were workhorse designs. Backbone pieces that will again and again be reached for by their future owners. Both for their practically and their evergreen beauty.

THE MANLY MORDERN ABOUT THE AUTHOR

MINIMALISTIC DESIGN

As poetic as Doma was in his approach to the clothing, it was the little touched that pushed this collection to another level of understated sophistication. The feather light accents of minimalistic circle broaches and worn-smooth belt buckles, their organic lines crafted out of horn, as well as the faux jacket pockets formed from a few stitches of thread left to dangle at the ends, pointed to a designer who is a romantic at heart.

OVERCOAT

FACES ABSTRACTED

Textural lightness was just as surprising; irregular perforations in a crisp shirt were the result of laser cutting in a way that echoed Jackson Pollock’s drip paintings. And there was something effortlessly pleasing about a gauzy gray funnel-neck layer that enriched a basic white T-shirt. Equally impressive was the reimagined waistcoat in an ivory jacquard fil coupe with polished magnetic closures. Utility and function often bolstered Doma’s designs, whether dimensional pockets on tapered trousers and shorts or width-adjusting Velcro straps along the back hemline of each leg. Georgia O’Keeffe, Lee Miller, and Lincoln Kirstein showed up on T-shirts, their faces abstracted.

MINIMALIST LIFE

NATURAL LIGHT DARK BEGINNINGS

Usually this type of conceptual trend-speak does little to explain how a garment comes to be, but here each idea nicely captured different facets of the designer’s thoughtful and deceptively detailed collection. You would never guess, for instance, that the recurring spotted pattern originated from the speckling on an orchid’s petals. To see Doma propose a floral print is to realize how far he has come from his dark beginnings.

THE EARLY DAYS

INSPIRATION

Earlier in the day, Doma had emphasized how he believes in creating content around his collections; in addition to the video, he produced an ambitious newsletter—more like a published mood board—to better convey his inspirations and artistic image.

Midway through was a page of coupled words, like symmetry askew, unplanned pattern, and everyday rearranged.

INSPIRE OF THE DAY

SIMETRIAS FOTOGRAFICAS

SPRING COLLECTION

Damir Doma showed his Spring collection without models. Well, there were seven young model-slash-artists who appeared in a six-minute non-narrative video (directed by Carlotta Manaigo and Frode Fjerdingstad). But for all intents and purposes, his presentation was deliberately inanimate, with twelve mannequins staged in front of an undulating backlit screen, like an art installation where touching was encouraged.

HANDMADE TABLEWARE Mykita / Damir Doma stands for a modern, poetic expression. Defined by progressive and meticulously crafted steel constructions, the collection features bold designs in refined colour compositions. An in-depth study of form, colour and surface laid the foundation for the MYKITA / DAMIR DOMA collaboration. DAMIR DOMA’s collections are lit by a soft, melancholic quest for tranquility.

Geometric shapes intersect in the latest incarnation of the signature layered look from MYKITA / DAMIR DOMA. Sunglass model CHARLOTTE is a slim, rectangular model with an organic leaf-shaped outline – a poetic silhouette with individual identity. ACHILLES features an oversize panto shape layered with an irregular hexagon for a standout look that is unexpectedly harmonious in the face.

MYKITA / DAMIR DOMA

MONOGRAM

FAIR ASSESSMENT

Near the start of the lookbook, for example, you will see a painterly effect on pant shins, which is echoed a few looks later on a khaki green parka. Doma called this his “origami� process, as the garment was folded before being hand-painted, thus staggering the effect. The punchy pink Japanese cotton has actually been washed and sprayed to register as more tonal and lived-in.

DAMIR DOMA MEN 2015

SIRU

INTERNATIONAL DESIGN

The ultra-fine construction of SIRU is the most delicate incarnation of the layered MYKITA / DAMIR DOMA concept yet. Giving the illusion of two layered pieces, the frame front is in fact one flat piece brought into shape in a series of meticulous, manual steps.

An elegant, architectural silhouette creates a subtle shadow play in the face of the wearer.

DAMIR DOMA

FEDOR This incarnation of the layered MYKITA / DAMIR DOMA concept uses transparency to hypnotic effect. The broad inner rims on sunglass model FEDOR create a strong silhouette behind tinted lenses held by fine outer rims. Finely composed metallic colourways add refinement to the steampunk aesthetic.

MEN GLASSWEAR

MYKITA / DAMIR DOMA

Mykita / Damir Doma stands for a modern, poetic expression. Defined by progressive and meticulously crafted steel constructions, the collection features bold designs in refined colour compositions.

CREATIVE MINIMALIST

DAMIR DOMA MENSWEAR COLLECTION

BY NGUYEN DUY PHUC D1909L2