Cosmetics Industry
The sustainability side of glamour Shedding off its “polluter” image, the cosmetics industry is showing its new true colours by going green, says Angelica Buan in this report.
Givaudan partnered with Bio FD&C in boosting its plant cell culture and phytopeptides capability
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JUNE / JULY 2019
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he latest Mintel report on beauty and personal care trends has emphasised that more beauty product consumers are now “questioning brands’ ecoethical practices”. It is evident that the plastics waste issue has changed how consumers choose and use products; and the industry has to adapt to these changes. Gone are the days when soaps came in a bar form; perfumes were packaged in elaborate glass containers and hair-care products were powders or pomades packaged in tins or jars. To allow for convenience, plastics have been a choice material for packaging to make it light, flexible, and sturdy. Items that had been packaged in heavy, delicate glass could be transported farther and more easily. Once a subject of tirade by widely using microplastics in personal care and cosmetics products (PCCPs), the cosmetics industry has immersed into the sustainability fold by incorporating more natural and biodegradable raw materials into its beauty formulations and packaging, which has thus helped it emerge as a part of the solution against plastic waste pollution. At the same time, it is charming today’s breed of well-informed consumers with products that are cruelty-free and environmental-friendly to propel its market to cross the billion dollar threshold over the decade. Clearly, the global cosmetics market, poised to reach US$863 billion by 2024, according to Zion Research Market, will skyrocket further in the coming decades. It has also opened up several market opportunities for green chemicals, biobased packaging and vegan products, to cite a few, at the heels of a growing global consumer base that wants a zero-waste lifestyle. Products fashioned from biobased ingredients Deriving plant-based raw materials for colourants, fragrances, emollients, and the like, is not new. Over the years, the advent of synthetic raw materials has paved the way for producing a broader range of properties in beauty enhancement products. Nonetheless, the issue of safety has since seeped into the growing cosmetics market. The demand for skin-safe, natural-based ingredients in cosmetics has driven the growth of the organic cosmetic products market, poised to reach US$19.8 billion by 2022 as forecast in a report by Allied Research Market. Bioactive ingredients are raking in a significant share in this market. Phytopeptides or plant-based chains of amino acid that make up protein are among the latest bioactive ingredients that are making waves in cosmetics manufacturing. Swiss manufacturer of flavours, fragrances, and active cosmetic ingredients, Givaudan has upped its active beauty capabilities in plant cell culture and phytopeptides with an R&D partnership agreement and acquisition of a minority stake into South Korean beauty innovation company Bio FD&C, which specialises in anti-ageing cosmetics ingredients. According to Givaudan, the mature markets of North America, Western Europe and Japan are the bastion for more than half of its annual sales, whereas, Asia Pacific, Latin America and Europe represent the remaining 43% of its sales, driven by rising urbanisation, lifestyle change and rising disposable incomes in these regions.