2019-20 Ski Utah Magazine

Ski Utah THE GREATEST SNOW ON EARTH

Snow Days

WINTER 2019–20

Get Stoked, Gear Up & Get Yourself to Utah

SKI-IN, CHILL OUT

FAMILY TRAVEL SURVIVAL TIPS

IN PRAISE OF PIZZA

SK I

T HE

DIFFERENCE

Jillian Vogtli: Ski with a Champion Athlete 2 skiutah.com

F I R S T C H A I R : 9 : 01 AM E L E VAT I O N : 9,570´ A I R T E M PE R AT U R E : 31°F W I N DS PE E D : S W 14 MPH TR A I L S E X PLO R E D : 9 HOT COCO A BR E A K S : 1

IMME AS UR AB L E Some things in life can be quantified, but at Deer Valley, we focus on perfecting the immeasurable. Our family-friendly amenities provide an experience that has a little something for everyone. Discover why Deer Valley has earned a sterling reputation. Learn more at deervalley. com/discover the greatest snow on earth

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snowbird.com 800.232.9542

2 skiutah.com

CONDITIONS MAY VARY. Photo: Matt Crawley

the greatest snow on earth

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4 skiutah.com

the greatest snow on earth

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– In –

Winter’s Favorite Town

TM

ADVENTURE IS RIGHT OUTSIDE YOUR DOOR. Here winter means escaping to a charming town that has it all. Where you can experience The Greatest Snow on Earth® at two distinctive ski resorts – Deer Valley and Park City Mountain. Where the scenery, nightlife, and dining are unforgettable. Yes, all that in an easy to get to ski-in/ski-out town. Discover why Park City, Utah is Winter’s Favorite Town

TM

at VisitParkCity.com.

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contents

84

LODGE LIVING photos by Chris Pearson styling by Hailey Klotz

D Chris Pearson

Gliding into a cozy lodge at the end of the day to soak in the hot tub, partake in gourmet-level fare, sip a cocktail by a roaring fire and then waking the next morning to do it all over again is, for many skiers and riders, the definition of living the dream. We bring that dream to life—while giving you a sneak peek at our favorite gear for winter 2019-20—at Alta’s newly renovated Snowpine Lodge.

FEATURES

50

FROM DUSK TO DAWN

57

A WEEKEND IN THE MOUNTAINS

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THE GREATEST SNOW ON EARTH

90

RETURNING FOR THE DIRT

It takes many hands—and a whole lot of expertise—to prepare a Utah mountain resort for the powderhungry faithful that flock to its slopes every day of the winter season. Here we provide a sundown-to-sunrise glimpse of what that entails at Snowbird.

We get it. Your time is precious, particularly those longed-for moments spent in the mountains.

Which is why we’ve curated four doit-all, not-a-second-wasted itineraries for making the most of your time in Utah. You’re welcome.

Far beyond the typical who-whatwhere-why beta you’d expect, our Utah Resort Guide also includes tons of little-known, insider 411 about all 15 of the state’s resorts, stuff like where to sip coffee with a view and the burger you have to see to believe.

In the spring, The Greatest Snow on Earth® gives way to some of the best mountain biking routes in the West, from easy-does-it singletrack to whiteknuckle flow trails brimming with terrain features. Here we give you 15 reasons to return to Utah for the dirt.

by Sean Zimmerman-Wall

by Jeremy Pugh

by Melissa Fields

by Sean Zimmerman-Wall

FIRST TRACKS 17

FREEZE FRAME

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BACKSTORY

Meet the photographer who translated his love for all things winter into creating surreal works of art.

The innovative beginnings behind one of the most well-known and beloved goggle brands, Smith Optics.

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FOOD + DRINK

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TRIP HACKS

Join us for a taste of locally blended wine, artisan cheese and dinnertime where getting there is half the fun.

Skip schlepping and get groceries, skis and even fresh cookies delivered to your condo, hotel or ski house.

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LET IT SNOW

With climate change now a grim fact of life, here we give credit where credit is due, to Utah resorts keeping it cool.

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PROFILE

James Niehues has managed to “paint himself into the corner” of one of the most unique professions around.

DEPARTMENTS

33 GOOD EATS

37 OFF-PISTE

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Pizza and skiing go together like peanut butter and jelly. A Utah foodie shares where she indulges her pizza cravings at purveyors that are conveniently located nearby the slopes from grab-and-go slices to high-brow, gourmet pies.

Indeed, skiing and snowboarding hold a very special place in our hearts. But the Utah mountains offer a plethora of other ways to play in the snow worth checking out, from ice skating and dogsledding to snowmobiling and cross-country skiing.

Despite our fair state’s teetotalling reputation, the craft beer-making trend sweeping the country has (gratefully) not been lost on Utah.

Here we introduce you to several locally made suds, from lagers and pilsners to stouts and porters.

by Mary Brown Malouf

8 skiutah.com

by Michaela Wagner

LIBATIONS

by Pamela M. Olson

45

FAMILY

by Julia Partain

Utah’s affordability and accessibility make it one of the most idyllic U.S. destinations for a family ski vacation.

But even the best-laid plans can go awry when it comes to traveling with kids. Minimize the meltdowns with our mom-approved planning guide.

THE NEW

STANDARD

STRIVING FOR MORE NOT SETTLING FOR LESS. Rise to more. With over 7,300 acres of terrain, two resort villages and a lively historic town to explore, it’s time to follow your voice of determination, not reservation. Come experience The New Standard and discover what it means to never settle for less.

PA R K C I T Y M O U N TA I N.C O M the greatest snow on earth

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D Chris Pearson

letter from the editor

The Greatest Moments, Realized As I pondered “the Greatest,” the theme of this issue of Ski Utah magazine, I realized that many of my life’s best moments have occurred on snow.

T

here’s the college ski trip to Maine, which, along with being one of the greatest weeks of my life, was also the coldest I have ever been, before or since. Buying my first Utah season pass—at Park City Mountain for the 1996–97 season— also felt pretty great. Others have included my husband popping the question on Alta’s Sugarloaf lift, logging miles (and miles) in a power wedge behind my kids as they learned to ski, watching my son go big in freeskiing comps, powder skiing with my daughter and on and on.

I first fell in love with skiing for the simple, like-flying joy of sliding on snow. But now I also believe that there are precious few things in life that bring people together, create a sense of personal well-being and allow all that’s heavy to fall away in the same way as skiing. Looking back on my life’s greatest moments, I can’t help wonder, if not for skiing, how different or rather, how many fewer greatest moments would I have had—or have yet to come—if I weren’t a skier? Thankfully, I don’t have to find out.

With this issue of Ski Utah magazine as your guide, I invite you to visit Utah this winter to make a few greatest moments of your own. The following pages are bursting with content penned by local, in-the-know writers, including: “Taking the Kids Skiing” (p. 45), Julia Partain’s practical advice for a fun-forall family ski trip; “Pizza, How We Love Thee” and “Oh My Heck! Yes, Utah Has Beer ” (p. 33 and p. 41, respectively) curated lists of Utah’s best pizza joints and microbreweries by two seasoned local foodies, Mary Malouf and Pam M. Olson; fun stuff to do in the snow sans the skis and boards from Michaela Wagner, titled “Sliding Outside the Lines” (p. 37); “A Weekend in the Mountains, Perfected,” (p. 57), Jeremy Pugh’s series of three-day dream itineraries for snowsliders of all ilk; plus our comprehensive Utah resort guide (p. 63), the season’s best gear, an after-hours glimpse at a Utah ski resort and much, much more. Consider this magazine your key to Utah’s wintertime kingdom. And The Greatest Snow on Earth®.

See you on the slopes!

Melissa Fields, Editor

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Stay Exquisite Enjoy effortless access from this slope-side resort to the renowned trails of Deer Valley Resort® and experience The Greatest Snow on Earth®, with attentive ski valets to manage your gear. From first tracks to nightcaps, The St. Regis Deer Valley will delight skiers and connoisseurs worldwide.

©2019 Marriott International, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, St. Regis and their logos are the trademarks of Marriott International, Inc., or its affiliates.

The St. Regis Deer Valley 2300 Deer Valley Drive East Park City, UT 84060 t. +1 435 940 5700 marriott.com/slcxr

Stay exquisite at more than 40 St. Regis hotels and resorts worldwide. @stregishotels the greatest snow on earth

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Contributors

Freelance writer Michaela Wagner is a world-traveling, rock-climbing, snowboarding, hitchhiking, yoga-practicing adventurer who loves getting lost in the city and the woods, always with her camera in tow. Rolling outdoors, she’s constantly on the lookout for interesting stories to tell, including her article in this magazine about all of Utah’s wintertime off-slope things to do.

And she knows Elvish.

Mary Malouf ran her own catering and food styling business until an editor asked if she could write about food, too; a question that led to work with D magazine, The Dallas Morning News, Cooking Light, several books and her current full-time gig, Salt Lake Magazine editor. For this issue, Malouf indulged her deep affection (and ours too!) for pizza.

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Venturing out to find Utah’s best beers and investigate new breweries is a tough job, but for this issue, Pamela M. Olson was a trooper. When she’s not out on the town—or the slopes—in pursuit of a great dish or new dining hotspot, Olson is a fisherwoman and professional florist. A native Utahn, she has seen the beer scene grow from an underground whisper with few microbrews on tap to the fermenting roar it is today.

Dawn patrol (aka before-sunrise backcountry skiing), the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Association and Canon cameras are a few of Chris Pearson’s favorite things. Which is fortunate because, as Ski Utah creative director for the past 18 years, he’s responsible for capturing The Greatest Snow on Earth® in its best light.

This winter, when he’s not checking the weather, behind the lens or churning out stellar graphic design, you can find Pearson introducing skiing to his toddler son, C.J.

Freelance writer Sean Zimmerman-Wall found his way to Utah from the hills of Tennessee in 2005.

Since then, he has been working fulltime as a ski patroller, backcountry guide and avalanche instructor—expertise he tapped into when he penned this issue’s behind-the-scenes glimpse of mountain operations at Snowbird and a story about 15 notto-be-missed Utah mountain biking routes. When not writing or on the mountain, keeping pace with his growing family is his greatest challenge and the most rewarding element of his life.

Photographer Jay Dash has been wandering the great state of Utah, with camera in hand, for the past decade. In the winter, Dash spends his time hiking the slopes of the Wasatch Mountains, hoping to catch first light or, as he did for this issue, capturing a before-dawn and after-sunset glimpse of what it takes to get his favorite Utah resort, Snowbird, ready for skiers and snowboarders each winter’s day.

Ten years ago Ski Utah Content Director and Idaho native Hailey Klotz traded Bogus Basin for the Wasatch Range when she moved to Utah to attend university. Now, when she’s not chasing powder—or sipping a well-earned après-ski cocktail—Klotz spends her time spreading the good word about Utah skiing via social media, supervising skiutah.com’s talented storytellers and serving as managing editor for this magazine.

Jeremy Pugh is a travel writer, essayist and author based in Salt Lake City, Utah and the author of the book 100 Things to Do in Salt Lake City Before You Die. Find him in Solitude’s Honeycomb Canyon or at verydynamite.com. In this issue, Pugh shows you how to make the most of precious mountain time for every type of skier—from powder hound to foodie.

Julia Partain, a Salt Lake City native, is a freelance writer and editor for several local and regional publications.

When she isn’t writing about happenings in her hometown, you can find her checking off the gear list and hitting the slopes with her husband and kiddos—the perfect background for the piece she penned for this issue about how to take a family ski vacation without disowning your kids.

Amy Bertelsen is an illustrator, designer, Idaho native and graduate of the University of Utah. For the last five years, she’s traveled the world both near and far while running her own illustration and design company, Amy Ann Bespoke. Bertelsen recently landed in Milan, Italy where she is pursuing a Masters degree in Interior Architecture.

HONEYCOMB CAN YON / JAN UARY 21 2016 / 1:33PM

LIVE YOUR TRADITIONS Memories made here last a lifetime. At Solitude, 500 inches of annual snowfall means unspoiled and untracked snow all to yourselves. Our uncrowded terrain is yours to enjoy by ski, snowboard, or snow angel.

This is the place where new and old traditions meet. It’s 1,200 acres of home to share with whoever loves the joy of gliding down a mountain. You’ll feel right at home here with way better views. Come ski with us.

SOLITUDEMOUNTAIN.COM | @SOLITUDEMOUNTAI N

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Ski Utah Publisher Raelene Davis Editor Melissa Fields Managing Editor Hailey Klotz

D Austen Diamond

Creative Director Chris Pearson

? h a t U y Wh CHEERS Second only to skiing The Greatest Snow on Earth® is gathering after the lifts stop turning to recount and soak in the day’s adventures. In Utah this means everything from sipping wine while dipping crusty bread into a cheesy fondue or sharing a mountain of nachos over cold beers to roasting marshmallows with your kids or sipping a craft cocktail while listening to live music. The options for spending your après-ski time in Utah are as varied as the snowflakes falling from the sky.

of reasons a motherlode s e’ er th e il h W this winter, visit to Utah y down to a g in k a m r fo h the reasons w here we distill isputable truths: four, ind

TIME Did you know that direct flights from 98 cities across the country land at Salt Lake City International Airport every day? Or that the airport is within an hour’s drive of ten Utah resorts? True story. And then once you arrive, ground transportation options abound from buses and light rail to shuttles, ride shares and car rental companies. A Utah ski trip means fewer hassles, fewer headaches and much more time to enjoy The Greatest Snow on Earth®.

For trip planning tools, lodging options, details about all 15 Utah resorts, deals and more, visit skiutah.com and follow us on Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest and Twitter @skiutah.

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Contributing Photographers/Artists Abam Barker, Monique Beeley, Amy Bertelsen, Adam Clark, Lee Cohen, Matt Crawley, Jay Dash, Raelene Davis, Austen Diamond, Adam Finkle, John Howland, Rocko Menzyk, Chris Pearson, Tim Roberts, Sean Ryan, Mike Saemisch, Mike Schirf, Doug Wewer Advertising Sales Al Kenworthy (801) 359-4644 al@skiutah.com

POWDER You probably already know that Utah is home to The Greatest Snow on Earth®.

What you may not be aware of, however, is how effortlessly all that light, fluffy powder sets the stage for you to experience your greatest stoke. Here your days can include bagging first chair, savoring the rush of the rope drop and hearing the subtle whoosh of your skis or board under your feet as you float down a slope.

All of which combine to make it oh-sohard to wipe that smile off your face at the end of the day.

GIGGLES A child’s laughter is a sound every parent longs for and are precious moments that can be gratefully many on a Utah ski vacation. Just try not to feel the joy when, say, your seven-year-old makes a triumphant take-off down her first blue-square groomer.

Or when following your kiddos along the whoop-de-doo trails through the trees. Or when you’re playing post-dinner card games back at the condo. Make a plan to come to Utah and look forward to one-of-a-kind connections, memories made and happy high-fives all around.

Contributing Writers/Editors Lexi Dowdall, Jane Gendron, Mary Malouf, Pamela M. Olson, Julia Partain, Jeremy Pugh, Virginia Rainey, Ted Scheffler, Natalie Taylor, Micheala Wagner, Sean Zimmerman-Wall, Tessa Woolf

SKI UTAH STAFF President—Nathan Rafferty VP Marketing—Raelene Davis Communications—Anelise Bergin Content Director—Hailey Klotz Creative Director—Chris Pearson Filmmaker—Tim Roberts Web/Interconnect—Luke Ratto Sales & Membership— Al Kenworthy Partnerships Manager—Keane Horner Marketing Manager—Ben Emery ©Ski Utah, Inc. 2019–20 All Rights Reserved. Printed in the USA by Quad Graphics.

Ski Utah magazine is an annual publication of Ski Utah, Inc. 2749 E Parleys Way, Suite 310 Salt Lake City, UT 84109, USA skiutah.com On the Cover: Howard Stoddard gets some stormy powder at Snowbird.

Photo: Chris Pearson

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Not All Ski-In, Ski-Out is Created Equal There are homes with ski-access and then there are homes with step-out-your-door & onto-a-run access. Homes so close to the slopes that even the sleepyhead gets first tracks. Homes that prioritize ski comfort with amenities like ski lockers & boot dryers that make gearing up easy. Where après starts when you declare it & a fully stocked kitchen makes re-fueling a breeze. And where the best view is every view — okay, it’s definitely from the slope-side hot tub.

Not all ski-in ski-out lodging is created equal, and that’s why Natural Retreats believes in vacation rentals that elevate the standard.

Open The Door To More 16 skiutah.com

N AT U R A L R E T R E AT S . C O M / S K I • 8 8 8 . 4 5 1 . 0 1 5 6

FirstTracks

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Food + Drink Let it Snow Backstory Trip Hacks Profile

FREEZE FRAME s

Zeroing in on winter’s beauty “IN THE BEST OF

CONDITIONS, WHICH IS LESS THAN 25 DEGREES FAHRENHEIT, you have about two minutes to get the shot,” says snowflake photographer Doug Wewer. “They change and melt very quickly.”

Originally from Pennsylvania,

receives an average of 150 inches of snow annually, that

Wewer has spent his life

he honed in on snow’s

working and playing outdoors.

up-close beauty.

“As a caretaker for the

“Nearly everything I’ve

Tuckerman Ravine shelters

learned about photographing

in New Hampshire,” he says,

snowflakes I learned on my

“I was always observing what

porch,” he says. Wewer captures

was happening with snow.”

the flakes on wood or glass

Other jobs he’s held include ski

with a customized photography

patroller, snow safety educator,

rig that’s always covered. “It’s

avalanche dog handler and

on its fifth iteration,” he says.

search and rescue volunteer.

“I’m constantly adjusting for

Wewer landed in Utah in 2000

lighting, camera holds and

to ski patrol at Snowbasin

backgrounds.”

during the 2002 Olympic

Of course, we had to ask: have

Winter Games. But it wasn’t

you ever seen two of the same?

until he moved to his current

“Even if there were two identical

home in Eden, Utah, which

snowflakes, I don’t think you could ever find them,” he says.

Most people don’t get the opportunity to see a perfect snowflake up close; it’s a fleeting and rare experience. Check out Wewer’s images of these delicate moments in time at desertsnowphotography.com.

—NATALIE TAYLOR

One of Doug Wewer’s very first attempts at capturing a single flake of The Greatest Snow on Earth®.

I was always observing what was happening with the snow.

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FirstTracks | food + drink

Russ

Kohler’s

“cheese recommends for every situation”

DAIRY RENAISSANCE

Toasted:

Juustoleipä, smothered with jam

s

Heber Valley Artisan Cheese serves up heritage and hard work in every wheel EVERY DAY EXCEPT

“There were so many factors

Cheddar:

national champion and Cascade

SUNDAY, Heber Valley Artisan

working against us,” recalls Kohler,

Raw and Queso Fresco Verde

Cheese (920 River Rd, Midway,

pointing to rising land values

runners-up in their respective

hebervalleyartisancheese.com, 435-654-

coupled with falling dairy prices.

categories. In the wake of these

0291) offers a taste of real farm life:

“We either had to abandon ship or

and other accolades, Heber

meeting the cows; watching the

do something different.” So, after

Valley Artisan Cheese is now also

robotic dairy in action; and—most

graduating from university, Kohler

available in Utah grocery stores

deliciously—savoring the house-

returned to the farm with his

including Harmons, Smith’s and

made cheddars, Juustoleipä

young family and, along with his

Whole Foods.

(Finnish style), Swiss and much

parents and sister, refocused the

more. Since 1929, the Kohler family

business on cheese in 2011. Now, in

Perhaps a line of ice cream. In

has worked the 125-acre Canyon

addition to the family, Heber Valley

the meantime, they’ll continue

View Farm in Midway. For much of

Artisan Cheese employs 24—plus

to welcome people to the farm,

that time, milk was king. But as the

150 cows, of course—to churn out

sharing their cheese, hard work

dairy market softened, Russ Kohler

3,000 pounds of product per week.

and passion—or as Kohler puts it,

and his father, Grant, decided they

And this cheese is legit. The

needed a new product to survive.

American Cheese Society crowned

The answer: artisan cheese.

the Kohlers’ Wasatch Back Jack

Snake Creek Sharp, a popular, two-year-old, naturally-aged cheddar

Dessert:

Vanilla Bean, paired with apples

What’s next for the Kohlers?

Up-and-coming: Honey Jalapeño Pecan

“helping others experience the farmer’s touch.”

—JANE GENDRON

SLOPESIDE SIPPING Getting to know the “official wine of après” 2. Townie Rosé

label. OTC’s mod tasting room is

Perfect for summer outings, Townie

ideal locale for winemaking, but

open daily for both sipping and

Rosé offers fresh strawberry and

don’t tell that to Jason Morgan and

bottle sales—even on Sundays and

plum aromas and flavors—an ideal

Stephen MacKay, founders of Park

holidays, when Utah’s state-run

picnic and BBQ companion. ($18.99)

City’s Old Town Cellars (408 Main

liquor stores are closed. Following is

St, otcwines.com, 801-649-3759) who’ve

a trio of OTC’s more popular wines.

s

bottle and age under their own

UTAH MIGHT NOT SEEM like the

3

MOUNTAINOUS NORTHERN

worked out a clever way to carve

2

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1

3. Old Town Outlaws This bold red wine was blended,

out a niche as ski country vintners.

1. Mountain Town White

Rather than tending a vineyard

The grapes for this white wine

Bank Bordeaux in mind. Black and

themselves, Morgan and MacKay

come from Oregon and deliver

red fruit flavors make Outlaws an

purchase juice from grapes grown

good acidity and minerality,

excellent wine to pair with grilled,

mostly in Washington, Oregon and

with gorgeous white peach and

stewed and braised meats. ($46.99)

California that they then blend,

tangerine flavors. ($15.99)

according to OTC, with a classic Left

—TED SCHEFFLER

DINNER, AND THEN SOME

s

Four dining experiences that offer much more than what’s on the plate THERE’S CERTAINLY NO

leg of lamb are prepared in the

SHORTAGE OF EXCELLENT

lodge’s four stone fireplaces. But

DINING destinations in Utah’s ski

you can also trek in on snowshoes

country. But, on occasion, a top-

or relax under warm blankets

notch restaurant meal can also

during a horse-drawn sleigh ride

include a bit of adventure, such

to the restaurant. Your choice.

1

as embarking on a sunset tram

To reach the Mongolian-style

ride, a horse-drawn sleigh ride

Solitude Yurt (solitudemountain.

(snowbird.com/dining/the-summit,

starlit forest to a private yurt on

or a snowshoe tour through the

com, 801-895-4132) you’ll hike

801-933-2222), each with a unique

Pine Creek for the Creekside

woods. Let’s call it eating actively.

or snowshoe through a moonlit

theme, at the 11,000-foot-elevation

Yurt Dinner (waoutah.com/

Following are four such dining

forest. Don’t worry, it’s a short

Summit restaurant. To get there,

yurtdinner, 435-602-4022). Once

adventures where getting there is

hike; just enough activity to whet

guests enjoy a private ride on the

snuggled inside, you’ll be treated

half the fun.

your appetite for a memorable

Snowbird Tram. Choose from

to a four-course dinner that begins

four-course gourmet meal (with

the loaded buffet and set up in

with cheese fondue and typically

to the parking lot outside of Deer

a menu that changes throughout

front of the restaurant’s floor-to-

features tantalizing menu items

Valley Resort’s Empire Lodge for

the winter) cooked right on

ceiling glass windows, so you can

such as backcountry braised beef,

an evening at Fireside Dining

the spot by talented (and very

watch the sunset and moonrise,

winter squash soup and chocolate

(deervalley.com/firesidedining,

entertaining) Solitude chefs.

simultaneously.

panna cotta for dessert. For those

Sure, you could drive right up

435-649-1000), where gourmet

“”

Once each month—when the

European-style delicacies like

moon is full—Snowbird Resort

trek in Wasatch Mountain State

raclette, wild mushroom stew and

hosts its Full Moon Dinner

Park leads guests through a

1. Horse-drawn sleigh ride to Fireside Dining at Deer Valley Resort.

2. Charcuterie at the Solitude Yurt.

3. Roasting s’mores at Creekside Yurt.

4. Snowshoe to the Solitude Yurt to work up your appetite.

5. Your ride to the monthly full moon dinners at Snowbird.

in the mood, there’s also s’mores-

A guided half-mile snowshoe

making outside by the fire.

—TED SCHEFFLER

On occasion, a top-notch restaurant meal can also include a bit of adventure.

4

D John Howland

D Chris Pearson

2

3

D Chris Pearson

D Matt Crawley

D Chris Pearson

5

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FirstTracks | let it snow

KEEPING WINTER

WHITE –BY THE NUMBERS–

Instead of a wait-and-see approach to climate change, the Utah resorts are taking action in ways both large and small to make sure we keep on sliding for years to come.

Here’s a glimpse at the data.

7

Utah ski resorts with public electric vehicle charging stations.

55

1

1,500

Percentage of Snowbird’s wintertime power needs met by an on-site natural gas cogeneration power plant.

10

How many resort sustainability managers received the National Ski Area Association’s Hero of Sustainability award in 2019, which went to Snowbird’s Hilary Arens (Alta’s Maura Olivos received this accolade in 2017).

Number of trees planted at Alta Ski Area in 2018.

7,300

0

Utah resorts that have gone plastic straw free.

Number of plastic single-use water bottles sold at Powder Mountain and Sundance.

Number of heavy-duty plastic trash bags that Sundance has avoided using per year since its housekeeping staff switched to reusable canvas trash bags.

2017

2020

2022

2030

2032

Single-use plastic bags were banned in Park City at Rite Aid, The Market at Park City and Fresh Market.

Year Alta has pledged, as part of the National Ski Areas Association’s Climate Challenge, to reduce carbon emissions by 20 percent.

Year Park City Municipal Corporation has pledged to achieve net zero carbon emissions across all city operations.

Vail Resorts’ goal for net zero carbon emissions, landfill waste and forest impact across its 19 resorts, including Park City Mountain.

Year Cottonwood Heights, Salt Lake City and Summit County have pledged to reduce their community carbon footprints to zero.

For more Utah resorts’ sustainability info, visit skiutah.com/sustainability.

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EXPERIENCE HIGH WEST DISTILLERY Utah’s first legal distillery since 1870.

If you find yourself in Park City, please stop (or ski) by to visit our Saloon located at the bottom of Quit ‘N Time ski run, just off Main Street. Better yet, you ought to visit our world-class Distillery located on nearby Blue Sky Ranch in Wanship, Utah. It’s a celebration of whiskey and the American West.

Sip Responsibly. © 2019 High West Distillery, Park City, UT. 46% alc. by vol.

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Your season pass to year-round savings.

Get $1,000 off your new solar energy system.* vivintsolar.com | 855.801.5947 *Cannot be combined with any other offers. Offer valid through April 30, 2020. Some exclusives may apply.

22 skiutah.com

Plan your Utah ski vacation at : GOHEBERVALLEY.COM/WINTERWONDERLAND the greatest snow on earth

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D Courtesy of Bob Smith family

FirstTracks | backstory

Smith’s newest 4D MAG goggle (right) has come a long way since Dr. Smith’s first pair (left). The original pair of goggles and all current Smith goggles are made in Utah.

VISIONARY TALE How one man’s foresight revolutionized the ski industry

Dr. Bob Smith circa 1965

s

HERE’S A FUN TOKEN OF TRIVIA for your next party: What do skiing and orthodontics have in common?

Answer: The birth of modern ski goggles. True story! In 1965, Dr. Bob Smith, an orthodontist and dedicated skier, created the first pair of anti-fogging,

24 skiutah.com

double-lens ski goggles using his dental tools, foam and glue at his kitchen table in Utah.

He tested prototypes during chest-deep powder runs and sold the goggles out of his van at Alta Ski Area and Sun Valley Resort during weekend ski trips. Needless to say, the doc’s goggles revolutionized the skiing industry and with that, Smith Optics was born.

“Before Dr. Smith invented the double-lens ski goggle, the norm was single-lens goggles or sunglasses,” explains Eric Carlson, Smith Optics’ brand director. “His inspiration came from the invention of doublepane windows which had the same goal of keeping the cold air out and the warm air

in to balance the dew point, which controls fogging.” Dr. Smith’s double-lens design and breathable foam allowed skiers to double their time on the mountain regardless of the weather. “Skiers could stay out longer in worse conditions—or better conditions, for those seeking powder,” Carlson says.

Flash forward 54 years, and the Smith Optics brand has expanded into helmets and eyewear for activities beyond the snow. Major milestones include the launch of the iconic “Slider” sport sunglasses and the V3 goggles in 1995, ski helmets in 2006, ChromaPop lenses in 2013 and bike helmets in 2014. “ChromaPop lens technology greatly enhances

color and clarity for your vision,” Carlson says, “while Koroyd helmet technology reduces head injuries during snow or bike crashes.”

The past two years have seen further innovations, thanks to Smith’s new MAG series, a collection of goggles and sunglasses with an interchangeable lens system to optimize performance. Dr. Smith, who died in 2012, would certainly be thrilled.

So what do orthodontics and skiing have in common?

Quite a lot, it turns out. The next time you’re on the slopes, tip your helmet to the father of ski goggles, and take an extra powder run in honor of Dr. Bob. —TESSA WOOLF

COME FOR THE SKIING. STAY FOR THE SKIING. LEE COHEN SAM COHEN

S I N C E 19 3 8

the greatest snow on earth

25

FirstTracks | trip hacks

THE GOODS, DELIVERED TO YOUR DOOR D Mike Schirf

Why do the runaround when you can order groceries, wine, skis and more on demand?

1

Utah State Liquor stores which are closed on Sundays and holidays.

Shop the Grocery Girls (Park City/ Deer Valley/Canyons, thegrocerygirls. com, 866-278-2254) convenient online checklists for items ranging from pet food and breakfast packages to flower arrangements and saké. Lee’s Marketplace (leesmarketplace.com) offers everything but the beer in their

3

North Ogden or Heber City stores for delivery. If you want them to put the groceries away, they’ll work with you to make arrangements with your lodging near Snowbasin,

s

Powder Mountain, Nordic Valley, SKI, EAT, SLEEP. REPEAT.

Park City and Deer Valley.

vacation time is for, right? So why

Gear Up

spend hours shopping for food and

Not into lugging your ski gear

gear? Tap into the ease of these

along on vacation? Want to try

bespoke services, each designed to

the latest equipment, just for

2

4

fun? Ski Butlers (Park City/Alta/

Late Night Cravings

Snowbird/Sundance/Brighton/

There’s no lack of pizza/Grubhub/

Stock the Fridge

Solitude, skibutlers.com, 877-754-

UberEats delivery options near all

deliver the goods to your door.

Park City Grocery Express

7754), Skis on the Run (Park City/

of Utah’s winter resorts, but when

(Park City/Deer Valley,

Alta/Snowbird/Sundance/Brighton/

that post-dinner craving hits, you

parkcitygroceryexpress.com,

Solitude, skisontherun.com, 888-

gotta have COOKIES! Preferably

435-729-0090) goes beyond the

488-0744), Rent Skis (Park City,

still warm from the oven. Try Chip

boundaries—extending its reach to

rentskis.com, 970-754-0449) and

(Salt Lake/Provo, chipcookies.co)

artisan purveyors such as Aquarius

Elite Ski Delivery (Park City,

for big, soft chocolate chip cookies

Seafood and Beltex Meats in Salt

eliteskidelivery.com, 855-346-0945)

until 2 a.m. on weekends. Or check

Lake City and specialty bakeries

are standing by to take your rental

out Crumbl’s (Salt Lake/Provo/

such as Auntie Em’s and Windy

orders; deliver skis, snowboards,

Ogden/Logan, crumblcookies.com)

Ridge in Park City. Got a favorite?

boots, etc., to your door; make

rotating menu of seriously rich

Just ask. They’ll deliver and put

adjustments; switch out skis

specialty cookies, delivered fresh

the groceries away—including

depending on conditions; and pick

from the oven until midnight.

wine and spirits from well-stocked

them up at the end of your stay.

26 skiutah.com

D Mike Schirf

That’s what your precious winter

—VIRGINIA RAINEY

1. Save time (and relax) while having rental equipment delivered to your door.

2. Order online before you arrive in Utah so your condo or rental home is stocked when you walk in the door.

3. Fresh-from-the-oven cookies with the push of a button.

They’ll even deliver the milk!

4. Gear experts can fit you for gear in the comfort of your rental home or hotel room.

the greatest snow on earth

27

FirstTracks | profile

WHERE CARTOGRAPHY AND ART MEET

JIM NIEHUES GAZES AT

and trail maps. Brown offered

the Alta Ski Area trail map sign

Niehues the opportunity to paint

for a moment before turning

the Mary Jane Territory at Winter

to snap a photo of one of Alta’s

Park Resort in Colorado. To ensure

most prominent landmarks,

the resort’s management was

Devil’s Castle. More than 25

happy with the illustration, Brown

years ago, Niehues painted this

asked Niehues to leave his work

craggy moraine along with the

unsigned until Brown had a

rest of Alta’s terrain and 116 runs,

chance to confess to his employers

capturing the Little Cottonwood

that it had actually been painted

Canyon resort in his distinctive

by Niehues. Winter Park accepted

style. He admits tackling Alta early

the map and Niehues went on to

on in his career was a challenge.

paint revisions of Brown’s older trail

But since doing so, he’s painted 194

maps and then eventually struck

more trail maps for ski areas both

out on his own.

big and small, and his work has

Each trail map Niehues paints

become as endemic to skiing as

begins with him climbing into an

GORE-TEX and Stein Eriksen.

airplane to take aerial photos of

Niehues’s 30-year career as

a resort, which he admits is his

a trail map illustrator began

favorite part of the process. This

partly by chance. While looking

step also helps him understand

for work in the Denver area, he

the features and terrain as he

was approached by Bill Brown, a

manipulates multiple aspects

painter who worked on landscapes

and cardinal directions to fit the mountain into one or two perspectives. “It’s very important

“”

Jim Niehues in his studio.

It ’s very impor tant to depic t the mount ain at a point when shado ws are cast across the slopes .

to depict the mountain at a point

ranges, perspectives and resorts

when shadows are cast across the

into one, digestible view.

slopes,” he says. “I usually find that

Though Niehues, now 73,

the best time of day is from 10 a.m.

contemplates retiring, he’s

to 2 p.m.”

apparently not done yet. At press

When asked about which resort

time he was working on maps for

he most enjoyed painting, Niehues

Oregon’s Mt. Bachelor, Cardrona

relays, “I would say Snowbird

in New Zealand and a remake for

because of the backdrop. It just has

Sun Peaks in British Columbia.

dynamicism to it in terms of the

“I announced several years ago

composition. Alta is right in there,

that I was retired, and that sure

too.” He says he also really enjoyed

didn’t last long,” he laughs. Maybe

painting a regional map depicting

I’ll retire next year. It’s not really a

all the Utah resorts, which

job, it’s a passion.” For more about

presented the heady challenge

Niehues, visit skiutah.com/jim.

of combining multiple mountain

28 skiutah.com

D Tim Roberts

s

Mapping out the unique career path of skiing’s go-to illustrator

—LEXI DOWDALL

Jim Niehues’s iconic body of work is now available in James Niehues: The Man Behind the Map. Containing nearly 200 maps, the book can be purchased at jamesniehues.com.

Perfect, Legendary Experiences.

Stein Collection offers four distinct Deer Valley hotels to suit your style. Providing the finest luxury lodging, award-winning dining, and Five-Star spa services, we’ll ensure your stay is a truly personalized experience.

For those who seek the best, there's only Stein.

D EER V ALLEY

D E E R VA L L E Y

the greatest snow on earth 29 800.453.1302 | www.steincollection.com | reservations@steincollection.com park city, utah

30 skiutah.com

sundanceresort.com

Perfect pairing.

AWARD-WINNING RESTAURANTS AND WORLD-CLASS SKIING

YOUR COMPLETE GUIDE TO PARK CITY AREA DINING:

ParkCityRestaurants.com

the greatest snow on earth

31

ENGAGING Immerse yourself in the relaxed luxury of Red Ledges – year round!

There are countless ways to engage with nature, with neighbors, and with the things you love to do at Red Ledges – like ski The Greatest Snow on Earth®! Our members enjoy privileged access to two slope-side lodges at Deer Valley Resort just 15 minutes away. And, just 30 minutes away Park City Mountain’s 7,300 acres or the rugged beauty of Sundance Mountain Resort await.

So hit the slopes! Then hit the ball on one of our two Jack Nicklaus Signature golf courses, or on our tennis and pickleball courts. Hit the trails on a guided snowshoe hike, bike ride, or horseback ride. Hit the pool and have a blast with the kids on our 144-foot pool slide. Or, simply relax by the fire after dinner with friends at the Clubhouse.

At Red Ledges, neighbors become friends and activities become passions, and the pace of life is as vibrant or relaxed as you’d like – all year round. Learn more at RedLedges.com or call 877.733.5334 and visit to experience the Red Ledges lifestyle.

Homesites from $175K to $1M

32 skiutah.com

Homes from $775K to $6M

GOOD EATS

PIZZA, HOW WE LOVE THEE A baker’s dozen of our favorite slices, from grab-and-go to high-brow

F

by Mary Malouf

1

The owners of Pizza Nono (925 E. 900 South, SLC, pizzanono-slc.com, 385-444-

or the average

bites as satisfying as the classic

person, an hour

combo of freshly baked dough,

of downhill skiing

marinara and mozzarella cheese

stuffed crust or gimmicks (though

burns 440 calories,

after a day on the slopes. To help

they do have a gluten-free crust),

give or take. The average slice

you realize this match made in

just wood-fired pizza made with

of pizza provides 265 calories.

heaven, here we’ve gathered a

premium, fresh ingredients.

Therefore skiing and pizza are

list of our most beloved pizza

Choose from beer or soft drinks to

meant to go together—obviously!

purveyors, all conveniently

accompany your pie, or the locally

But, seriously, there are not many

located at or nearby the slopes.

made Garwoods ginger beer.

3530) have simple goals. Quality.

D Chris Pearson

Artisanal. Traditional. There’s no

the greatest snow on earth

33

GOOD EATS

Salt Lake City Area

2

The exterior of the Stone

pull-aparts. Vegan and gluten-free pies are also available; call ahead for keto pies.

Haus at Solitude (12000 E.

Big Cottonwood Canyon Rd, soli tudemountain.com, 801-536-5767) is completely charming—you want to go in just because of the gray

6

3

The Vera Pizza Napoletana (VPN) was established

in Napoli, Italy, in 1984 by Si-

stone walls and the grass-topped

gnore Pace. Its sole purpose

roof. Pizza is the star of the menu

is to protect the integrity

here and you can create your own,

of the pizza-making

but don’t overlook the sandwiches

tradition as it began in

and other menu items. All can be

Napoli over 200 years

ordered to go, and there’s also a

ago and requires that

keto-friendly menu and ice cream.

members use only specific raw ingredi-

3

2

your table and the famous cheesy

ents and their hands It’s the end of the day; time

to create the pizza

to stop the downhill rush

dough and that it

(until tomorrow), slow down and

be cooked directly

savor the moment. Pizza around

on the surface of a

the fireplace is perfect and the

pizza oven fueled

Wildflower (9121 Snowbird Center

solely by wood.

Dr, snowbird.com, 801-933-2230) is

Pizza at Settebello

the place, a hangout as well as

(260 S. 200 West,

a restaurant. Order the Bianca

settebello.net, 801-

because you get a pile of arugula

322-3556) is all that.

4

on top of the melted mozz, so it’s a salad and entrée in one. Then settle in to tell your tales of the day.

4

Park City Area

kids (or just adults who act like

7

children) for a pie that’s both tasty

just a snowball’s throw

and easy on the wallet, stop into

away from Park City’s icon-

the unassuming Big Apple Pizza

ic Town Lift. There you’ll find

(2939 E. 3300 South, 801-485-4534).

American-style, cracker-crust

Menu standouts include the Cali-

pizza with a selection of classic

fornia veggie and the blue buffalo

toppings. Order by the slice or a

chicken pies. For those who are

whole pie. Perhaps reassuring to

wheat averse, Big Apple now offers

non-Utahns is the note on the bev-

a gluten-free crust.

erage list: “everchanging variety of

If you’re looking for somewhere to take your rowdy

5

Davanza’s (690 Park Ave, davan

zas.com, 435-649-2222) is

6

Utah and full-strength beer and

5

glasses of wine available.”

This Salt Lake staple has several locations, but the

original The Pie (1320 E. 200 South, thepie.com, 801-582-5700) is still the best: a downstairs, cave-like

8

The official name is Maxwell’s East Coast Eatery

(1456 Newpark Blvd, maxwellsece.

restaurant with graffiti-covered

com, 435-647-0304) and its roots

walls, pizzas nearly bigger than

harken back to Little Italy. And so

34 skiutah.com

7

13

it comes as little surprise that what they most often serve here is New York style with a thin crust. Try a

12

11

Sometimes it’s hard to find pizza by the slice—it’s mainly

a New York thing, where people

pie called The Fat Kid topped with

eat and walk at the same time. But

pepperoni, spinach and ricotta. At

slices are just one of the conve-

night on weekends, things heat

niences at Lucky Slice (Logan/

up with the wine and music.

(Maxwell’s can also be found in downtown Salt Lake City.)

Ogden/Clearfield/Powder Mountain, theluckyslice.com, 801-627-2229). You can order whole pies or slices. They also offer delivery, dine-in or take-

9

out, and the menu includes a list of The black truffle

original pies like the Potato-Pesto

and fontina cheese

Pie or traditional ones, as well as a

pizza on J&G Grill’s

complete vegan menu.

(St. Regis Deer Valley, 2300 Deer Valley Dr E, marriott.com, 435-940-

11

5760) bar menu is the height of “gourmet” pizza, a term coined in the ’80’s when Spago

10

D 2-11 Adam Finkle, 12-13 Mike Saemisch

8

It’s definitely high altitude at 11,307 feet, but is cen-

trally located at Brian Head’s Giant Steps base area. At Pizano’s (Brian

Puck topped a

Head Resort, pizanospizzeria.com,

pizza with smoked

435-677-3341) you can build your

salmon and caviar.

own pizza or order from a specialty

The menu also fea-

pie menu that pays homage to

tures a pizza of the

pizza hot-spots—a Brooklyn Trolley

day, chef’s choice.

Dodger pie, a Chicago Meat Lover

And of course there

pie, a Sicilian pie and a SoCal pie.

are sips from the

Add to that a list of subs, calzones,

award-winning wine

salads and desserts. And you don’t

cellar to choose from.

want to miss the beer.

Slackwater (1895 Washington Blvd,

slackwaterpizzeria.com, 801-

9

12

Chef Wolfgang

Ogden Area

10

Cedar City Area

13

At Cedar City’s Centro Woodfired Pizza (50 W.

Center St, centropizzeria.com, 435867-8123, just 40 minutes from Brian Head), the light-as-air dough is

topped with housemade toma-

399-0637) has been broadening

to sauce, local vegetables and

the beer and pizza vocabulary in

high-quality cheeses and then

Ogden since 2011. For example, the

baked over a wood fire at 800

Fish Taco pie has a green goddess

degrees, giving the crust that

base topped with seasoned tilapia,

traditional “leopard spot” char

black bean corn salsa and a three-

characteristic of Italian pizza. Rec-

cheese blend. It’s finished with

ommendation: it’s worth it to eat it

fresh coleslaw, pico de gallo, cilan-

fresh at the restaurant.

tro, a drizzle of chimichurri sauce and a lime wedge garnish. But if you are a little nervous about straying so far from pizza orthodoxy, tamer options are available.

the greatest snow on earth

35

WE

LIVE Woodward Park City is a world-class, year-round action sports destination in one of the greatest outdoor regions in the world. For passionate action sports athletes of all ages and abilities to play and train everyday, 365 days and nights a year. / UTA H’S N EWES T R ES OR T

THIS

WOODWARDPARKCITY.COM

36 skiutah.com

OFF-PISTE

SLIDING OUTSIDE THE LINES Snowy fun sans the skis, snowboard and chairlift

D

by Michaela Wagner ownhill skiing and

of other ways to get out on The

snowboarding may

Greatest Snow on Earth®, sans-

be the undisputed

the chairlift, from snowshoeing

champions of

and ice skating to tubing and

Utah’s winter recreation scene. But

snowmobiling, and dozens more

our fair state also boasts plenty

diversions in between.

above: Getting out there the old-fashioned way via dogsled. below: Snowshoeing is great fun and a great workout! left: Hundreds of kilometers of Nordic trails can be found throughout Utah.

By Your Own Steam NORDIC SKIING AND SNOWSHOEING In Park City, the sprawling

City Golf Course and beyond to the

Round Valley Open Space

town’s iconic Osguthorpe Barn. In

(mountaintrails.org) offers 25

nearby Midway, follow the tracks

km of groomed, multiuse trails

of former, current and future

catering to cross-country skiers,

Olympians on 31 km of trails at

snowshoers, hikers and fat-

Soldier Hollow (utaholympiclegacy.

tire bikers alike, free of charge.

org), home of the 2002 Olympic

The town’s White Pine Nordic

Winter Games biathlon and Nordic

Center (whitepinetouring.com)

skiing events.

The staff at the Nordic Center at Solitude (solitudemountain.com) groom 20 km of skate and classic track and maintain 10 km of snowshoe trails. At the Sundance Nordic Center (sundanceresort.com)

D Chris Pearson

grooms 20 km of track at the Park

the groomed cross-country (15 km)

skiing trails for all ability levels at

around Cedar Breaks National

and snowshoeing (10 km) trails cut

Snowbasin (snowbasin.com). Hit

Monument, Bryce Canyon

through pristine backcountry with

the Grizzly Center for rentals.

National Park (nps.gov) and Dixie

views of majestic Mt. Timpanogos

Near the state’s southern

National Forest (fs.usda.gov) to

and the frozen Stewart Falls. Staff

resorts—Brian Head and Eagle

discover frosted hoodoos and

groom and maintain 26 km of

Point—venture off the beaten

mighty forests in an otherworldly

skating and classic cross-country

path and onto the trails in and

realm of red rock and ice.

the greatest snow on earth

37

OFF-PISTE

On the Rocks SKATING AND THE ICE CASTLES In Kearns near Salt Lake City, drop in for a lesson or join a public skate

D Austen Diamond

session on the “Fastest Ice on Earth” at the 400-meter Olympic Oval (utaholympiclegacy.org) or enjoy an experience reminiscent of wintertime skating in New York City at the Gallivan Center (thegallivancenter.com) where families and couples whirl around the ice surrounded by streaming lights and glittering trees in downtown Salt Lake City.

Conveniently nestled in the village below Park City Mountain’s

The Midway Ice Rink

wintry attraction, the Midway Ice

slopes at its Town Base area, the

(midwaycityut.org), the largest

Castles (icecastles.com/midway)

picturesque Resort Center Ice

outdoor rink in the state, is worth

feel like something out of a fairy

Rink (parkcityicerink.com) allows

the short trip from Park City for

tale. Equally fantastical by day

visitors to skate with holiday

anyone seeking small-town charm

or night, when thousands of

ambiance and upbeat music while

and stellar mountain views.

multicolored LED lights illuminate

Park City Ice Arena (parkcity.org)

The skating rink isn’t the only icy

the structures, the Ice Castles are

offers year-round fun indoors with

attraction you’ll find in charming

a perfect family outing and every

both instruction and free skate.

Midway. The town’s most popular

photographer’s dream.

Gravity at Work SNOW TUBING For next-level thrills, zip down Soldier Hollow’s (utaholympiclegacy.org) 1,200foot sliding lanes, the longest in the state. Or add a twist to the traditional trajectory by spinning down the curved routes at Wasatch Parc (wasatchparc.com) located nearby Nordic Valley.

Down south, descend the 100-foot vertical drop of the veritable frozen water slide at Giant Steps or 75-foot vertical plunge at Navajo Tubing Park, both located at Brian Head (brianhead.com).

38 skiutah.com

above: Ice skating is an activity suitable for almost all ages. left: Giggles are guaranteed with snow tubing. upper right: Go farther with a snowmobiling tour in the backcountry. below: The Midway Ice Castles are an unforgettable experience.

Along for the Ride SNOWMOBILING AND DOGSLEDDING While numerous snowmobiling outfits operate throughout the state (visit the skiutah.com activities page), three standouts include Lofty Peaks guided snowmobile tours at Snowbird, which begin with a ride on the Aerial Tram to the 11,000-foot Hidden Peak summit followed by a chairlift descent into Mineral Basin for unforgettable snowmobiling

Cedar Mountain Snowmobile

(allseasonsadventures.com)

and phenomenal views on the

Complex’s (visitcedarcity.com)

and Destination Sports and

resort’s backside (loftypeaks.

trails grant access to stunning

Adventures (destinationsports.com)

com). In the Uinta Mountains

views of Cedar Breaks National

in Park City all have experienced

outside of Park City, 200 miles of

Monument, the Virgin River Valley

mushers and teams of gorgeous

unbelievable backcountry riding

and Zion National Park.

dogs ready to take you along

and groomed trails are right off

For a unique experience the

for the ride. Wagging tails and

your doorstep at Daniels Summit

whole family can enjoy, hitch a

plentiful licks are all the proof

Lodge (danielssummit.com). One

ride with man’s best friend. Luna

you need that dogs love dashing

of the most scenic and exciting

Lobos Dog Sledding (lunalobos.

through the snow just as much as

snowmobile areas in the country.

com), All Seasons Adventures

their people do..

Stoking the

Stoke at parleys summit

GET READY. Where Gorgoza Tubing Park once resided at Park City’s Parleys Summit is now a bigger, badder and much more multifaceted place to play: Woodward Park City (campwoodward.com), a year-round hub of progressive action sports experiences.

Winter outdoor activities there include lift-accessed day and night skiing and snowboarding with a terrain park and 10 lanes for snow tubing. For more Woodward 411, turn to page 79.

the greatest snow on earth

39

AFTER 30 YEARS OF INNOVATION, HESTRA PROUDLY PRESENTS:

THE SAME OLD GLOVE!

SUSTAINABLE DESIGN GETS BETTER WITH TIME. THE NEW PHILIPPE RAOUX. #SAMEOLDGLOVES #HESTRAGLOVES

40 skiutah.com

hestragloves.com

LIBATIONS

OH MY HECK! YES, UTAH HAS BEER

Rye Cream

Citra KÖlsch

Sour Power

Fisher Beer

Hefeweizen

Uncle Whippie’s ESB

Seldom Seen Pale Ale

Porter

Mild Child

Nitro Coffee Stout

A. Fisher Brewery roundup

A guide to where and how to sip Utah-made suds

by Pamela M. Olson photos by Austen Diamond

J

ust as each ski resort

still offer go-to brews like Full

But for you, dear reader, we’ve

family-friendly establishments

in Utah has its own

Suspension Pale Ale, Polygamy

done our best. For this Utah pub

where kiddos are welcome and

perks and personality,

Porter and Trader IPA to devout

guide, we’ve narrowed it down

tasty food is served, come-as-

each of Utah’s 29

beer pilgrims. But from red rock

to those in or on the way to one

you-are tap rooms and those

breweries (with more

country to gritty industrial parks,

of our ski towns across the state,

offering connoisseur-level brews

in the works) has its own style

veteran and upstart brewers

called out not-to-be-missed

you won’t find anywhere else.

and swagger. Stalwarts like

alike are producing new beers so

brews at each locale and divvied

Map your crawl, toast to pow and

Squatters, Wasatch and Uinta

often, it’s a challenge to keep up.

them up into three categories:

realize brewvana.

the greatest snow on earth

41

LIBATIONS

Family Friendly

Red Rock Brewery

Highland Dr, SLC, wasatchbeers.com

Three locations in SLC (including

A Park City Main Street mecca

the Beer Store) and in Park City

with a second pub in the Sugar

Bohemian Brewery

redrockbrewery.com

House neighborhood; both large

94 E. Fort Union Blvd, Midvale

A locals’ favorite where it’s always

spaces that easily handle a crowd.

bohemianbrewery.com

hoppin’. Creative comfort fare,

Reasonably priced, great burgers

Drive straight out the mouth of

large menu, wood-fired pizzas.

and easygoing beers. Beer: First

Big Cottonwood Canyon to this

Beer: If available, the 20th Anniver-

One Down Winter Warmer Ale

Bavarian-style brewhouse. Small-

sary Imperial Red Ale

batch, carefully crafted lagers paired with old-world European

Rooster’s

fare like pierogi and stroganoff.

253 25th St, Ogden

Beer: 1842 Czech Pilsener Lager

roostersbrewingco.com

No Frills Tap Rooms

Get your ticket to sip with Salt Lake City’s Brewery Pass. These one-, three- or 90-day passes download to your phone and allow a $5 credit to spend on beer, food or merchandise at 12 Salt Lake City breweries and brewpubs. (Enough for one pint or two samples at most of the breweries.)

For details, go to visitsaltlake.com.

On Historic 25th Street, where

A. Fisher Brewing Co

Desert Edge

most of O-town’s cool businesses

320 W. 800 South, SLC, fisherbeer.com

273 Trolley Square, SLC

reside. After skiing one of Ogden

Originally founded in Utah in 1884,

desertedgebrewery.com

Valley’s three resorts, drop down

now a revived pioneer-era brand.

Like an old friend, this reliable

for a casual atmosphere and all

This is a bona fide hangout, with

place never changes, serving

the Chocolate Stout you can drink.

a thriving bicycle and party scene,

RoHa Brewing Project

tasty dishes with speedy service

New: B Street Tap Room

sports on TV, beers constantly

30 E. Kensington Ave, SLC

changing and food trucks on rota-

rohabrewing.com

tion. Beer: Cashmere Kölsch

Tiny tap room, worth the trip to

for decades. Beer is on the menu, though not the star. Dish: French

UTOG

Onion Soup. Beer: Pub Pils

2331 Grant Ave, Ogden

South Salt Lake. Belly up after a

utogbrewing.com

Policy Kings Brewery

ski day because, in the brewery’s

Squatters

The first winter for this new brew-

223 N. 100 West, Cedar City

own words, they have a “passion

SLC, Park City and airport locations

pub, and it’s off to a good start.

policykingsbrewery.com

for beer and dedication to the craft

squatters.com

Limited beer selection, but they’re

Rejoice! Skiers heading to Brian

balanced with a craving for a great

No visit to Utah is complete with-

ramping up. Cool modern space,

Head and Eagle Point now have

life along with adventure—powder,

out a visit to Squatters, which was

excellent wings, fish & chips and

a brewery in nearby Cedar City.

singletrack and rivers.” Beer:

named the offical beer of Ski Utah.

views of Ben Lomond Peak.

Couple Deandre and Sara Ridgel

Kensington Grand Saison

Beautiful historic space (SLC), clas-

Beer: Session IPA

turned their passion for homebrewing into a business and have

SaltFire Brewing Company

Beer: Outer Darkness Russian

Wasatch Brew Pub

created a community hub.

2199 S. West Temple, SLC

Imperial Stout

250 Main St, Park City and 2110 S.

Beer: Policy Kings IPA

sic beers, great pub fare.

saltfirebrewing.com High point beers only (nothing on tap, no samples) and hula hoops. What else do you need?

How about yoga followed by beer mimosas?

Beer: Dirty Chai Stout Toasted Barrel Brewing 412 W. 600 North, SLC toastedbarrelbrewery.com Dedicated brewers specializing in barrel-aged sours, kettle sours and balanced IPAs. A bit out of the way, but worth a pop-in. Beer: Quad Belgian Style Quadruple Ale Uinta Brewing Co. 1722 S. Fremont Drive, SLC, uintabrewing.com This WAY-west side Salt Lake City joint does have great food, but no kiddos allowed. Nicely done grub, beers so good they’re a part of the Utah active lifestyle. 100 percent wind and solar powered.

Beer: 801 Pilsner, Wyld Simcoe Session Ale

42 skiutah.com

Serious Beer, Serious Practices

is the “proper beer,” but their wide lineup is easily navigable using their ingenious flavor profile charts to determine if you like more

Epic Brewing

yeasty and tropical flavors or a

825 S. State Street, SLC

more hoppy beer with citrus notes.

epicbrewing.com

Beer: Salted Caramel Porter

Go big or go home. Specializing in high alcohol-content beer,

Shades Brewing

available in 22-oz. bottles. At the

154 W. Utopia Ave, SLC

newly expanded tasting room,

shadesofpale.com

sample current selections on tap

In a location that feels under-

paired with paninis. Now offering a

ground (entrance by the loading

4 percent Utah session beer. Beer:

dock), you’ll find hazy, “I don’t

Brainless Belgian-Style Golden

think we own a filter” beers, where

top: Good times and great beer at Proper Brewing Co. above: A server pulling a pint from the taps at Squatters Brew Pub. above right: Many Utah breweries offer taster-size servings of their on-tap beers. below left: Both locals and visitors love the family-friendly vibe at Squatters Brew Pub.

you’re encouraged to “find your Kiitos Brewing

shade.” Beer: the award-winning

608 W. 700 South, SLC

Kveik Golden Sour Ale, brewed

kiitosbrewing.com

with an ancient yeast

A warehouse room in the hipster Granary District with a welcom-

Talisman Brewing Company

ing lineup of pinball machines

1258 Gibson Ave, Ogden

and beers that make one feel like

talismanbrewingco.com

a kid in a candy shop. Flavors of

Lots of love goes into every batch

milkshake, coconut and vanilla nut.

at this 12th Street location, where

Efficient water system, recyclable

fans can hang for occasional food

cans only. Beer: Coffee Cream Ale

truck fare. Bottle store only. Check the online schedule for tours, tast-

Level Crossing

ings and beer yoga. Beer: Uplifted

2496 S. West Temple, SLC

Scottish Ale

levelcrossingbrewing.com A delightful bright spot in South

T.F. Brewing

Salt Lake, navigating the first year

936 S. 300 West, SLC

on the scene. Passionate owner-

tfbrewing.com

ship, skilled brewer, knowledge-

Gorgeous, modern space with a

able staff. Beer: The flagship, a rare

clean and beautiful tap and menu

Kentucky Common. Also Coffee

system: the beers are numbered,

Kolsch … breakfast brew anyone?

1 to 13 from light to dark and the pulls themselves are stained wood,

Proper Brewing Co.

in shades light to dark, making it

857 Main Street, SLC

easy to plan an afternoon or eve-

properbrewingco.com

ning of progressive tastings.

Here the English-style golden ale

Beer: Ethereal Leichte Weisse

SKI COUNTRY DISTILLERS BREWERS AREN’T THE ONLY LIBATION ARTISTS THRIVING IN THE BEEHIVE STATE; several distillers dot the map here, as well, including these three that are in convenient proximity to the slopes.

High West Distillery (highwest.com) began Utah’s craft booze movement in 2006 when it opened the world’s first ski-in/ski- out gastrodistillery near Park City’s Town lift. Since then, High West has expanded to its Wanship location (16 miles from Park City) where you can have a bite in the café and take a tour to check out the 1,600-gallon copper still. High West even has a location at the SLC airport.

Or book a multicourse dinner at High West’s Nelson

Cottage, offering unique whiskey pairing dinners.

Also in Park City is Alpine Distilling (alpinedistilling.com), makers of a variety of awardwinning spirits including vodka, gin, whiskey and liqueur. You can drop in for a drink anytime at the distillery’s Main Street tavern, the Alpine Pie Bar. Or take a deeper dive by sampling the entire Alpine Distillery portfolio with a 30-minute tasting at Alpine’s Silver Creek–area distillery.

Tucked into a gentrifying area of Salt Lake is Beehive Distilling (beehivedistilling. com). There you can book a tour that includes a tasting of the distiller’s original Jack Rabbit gin, its mellow barrel reserve gin and its latest spirit, an organic vodka. (While you’re there, check out Salt Fire Brewing, Shades Brewing and several others located just down the street.)

the greatest snow on earth

43

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L E V E L N I N E S P O R T S . C O M 44 skiutah.com

FAMILY

TAKING THE KIDS SKIING Tips and tricks for planning a stress-free winter getaway

by Julia Partain illustrations by Amy Bertelsen

W

e get it. Family

or she makes the transition from

quality time can outnumber the

vacations

wedge turns to parallel skiing—

time-outs. Following are a few

can be both

and relentlessly hard: someone

pointers for making your family’s

rewarding—

forgets their gloves, ski boots, to

ski vacation to Utah as hassle-

like when your son or daughter

put on sunscreen, and on and

free and memorable as it can be

smiles up at you proudly as he

on. But with a little planning, the

before you even leave home.

the greatest snow on earth

45

FAMILY (canyontransport.com) and The Transportation Network (thetransportationnetwork.com).

One major perk of staying in ski-in/ski-out lodging is, of course, you are already at the mountain.

But many slopeside lodges also offer shuttle transportation for guests, often as a free service. Be sure to ask about shuttle options at your hotel or condo and plan accordingly.

Staying in the city? Utah Transit Authority (rideuta.com) provides public bus, light rail and commuter rail transportation throughout Ogden, Park City, Salt Lake City and the eight nearby ski resorts. If Park City is your basecamp, you can enjoy a free citywide bus system (parkcity.org) that services historic Main Street,

Packing

Deer Valley, Park City Mountain and all points in between.

First things first. Packing

And don’t forget to throw a

begins long before you put

daypack into your luggage for

your gear in the suitcase.

carrying things like extra socks

Make a list of the necessities for

and gloves, snacks, sunscreen,

and childcare as soon as you

each member of your tribe: both

Chapstick, hand warmers and

know your travel plans; both

lightweight and heavier layers

beanies to have while you’re on

tend to book out, especially on

(weather conditions are always

the mountain.

weekends and holiday weeks. Fill

changing), goggles, ski jacket and

Getting Around

out the forms online or print and

(both have a nasty habit of getting

are serviced by efficient public

City Mountain and Snowbird all

wet or lost), a beanie to wear

transit systems, Uber and

operate on-site, state-licensed

off-piste, snow boots for walking

Lyft, making renting a car an

daycare for children as young

around or playing in the snow and

unnecessary hassle. Convenient,

as six weeks. High Altitude

a swimsuit for some well-deserved

round-the-clock service from

Kids (hakutah.com) in Eden

hot tub soaking and swimming.

Salt Lake City International

provides childcare services

After you’ve checked everything

Airport to the resorts is offered by

in the Snowbasin/Powder

off your list, have your kids try on

several local shuttle companies

Mountain area. Resort Sitters

all their clothes. There’s nothing

including Canyon Transportation

(resortsitters.com) services Park

pants, neck gaiter/buff; helmet (most ski school programs require them), extra socks and gloves

Most ski destinations in Utah

Book Ahead

Schedule ski school lessons

fill out in advance to save time on the morning of the first day.

Alta, Brighton, Deer Valley, Park

like heading out to ski school and

City resorts, looking out for

realizing that Johnny’s snow pants

your kiddos at your location, on

from last year don’t fit.

your schedule. And Guardian

DO bring your ski boots, but

Angel (guardianangelbaby.

leave your skis at home. It typically

com) provides childcare, baby

costs as much to rent as it does

equipment rentals and

to check skis with your baggage onto the plane or to ship them.

Once in Utah, hundreds of rental options can be found both on and off mountain. Or better yet, have rental skis delivered to your hotel, condo or house.

(See page 26 for options.)

Most ski rental delivery outfits also arrive armed with a selection of gloves, neck gaiters, hats and hand warmers for purchase.

46 skiutah.com

pasta, burgers, chicken fingers,

sightseeing! A few kid-approved

etc.) followed by after-dinner

local attractions include Salt Lake

entertainment.

City’s Natural History Museum

If you plan on eating in,

even grocery delivery services

is a cinch with après-ski options

in Salt Lake City, Park City and

for kids of all ages. The Children’s

Sundance Mountain Resort.

Concierge program at the Lodges

of Utah (nhmu.utah.edu),

streamline cooking back at

Discovery Gateway Children’s

the condo or house rental by

Museum (discoverygateway.org),

arranging for grocery delivery—

and Hogle Zoo (hoglezoo.org),

many will make the extra trip to

Draper’s Living Plant Aquarium

the wine and liquor store as well.

(thelivingplanet.com), Ogden’s

(For options, turn to page 26.)

Union Station (ogdencity.com) and Park City’s historic Main Street

at Deer Valley (deervalley.com)

Heed the Rule of Three

your clan? If yes, you’ll love this.

gathers the littles for a sweet

As much fun as you plan to

yourself for a family ski vacation

For a one-time fee of $45, the Ski

après-ski pick-me-up with hot

have on the slopes, avoid the

is to realize that, as with all else in

Utah 5th & 6th Grade Passport

cocoa, treats and supervised

burnout by taking every third

life, even with the best-laid plans,

(skiutah.com/passport) allows fifth

activities, giving parents the

day off. Switch things up with

things will go astray: gloves will be

graders three day passes at each

perfect opportunity to kick back

sledding or tubing: Brian Head,

lost, reservations misplaced and

of Utah’s resorts and sixth graders,

and have a cold one on the ski

Cherry Peak and Woodward

patience tried. But along with the

one day pass at each resort. FYI: A

beach. Alta Lodge (altalodge.com)

Park City all operate on-site,

bumps in the road there will also

parent or guardian must purchase

has a special kids’ dinner (think

lift-served tubing hills. If Nordic

be lots of giggles, hugs and other

the Passport online ahead of

skiing and snowshoeing are

precious moments set against the

your visit.

your thing, Snowbasin, Solitude

backdrop of mountains, snow and

Dining

and Sundance provide miles of

warming your toes by a fire at the

groomed trails for ample family

end of the day.

Got a fifth or sixth grader in

A day on the slopes makes for

fun. For a real rush, the zipline

hungry shredders. Check out

tour and alpine coaster at Park

the dining options at and nearby

City Mountain has you covered.

your accommodations and make

(For more off-piste activities,

reservations ahead of time. Plan to eat early to keep the hangries at

(historicparkcity.com).

Probably the best way to arm

turn to page 37.) Want a break from the snow? Go

bay. Filling the time before dinner

the greatest snow on earth

47

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48 skiutah.com

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49

From

Dusk A snowcat moves through the lowest section of Powder Paradise, an often-groomed run in Snowbird’s Mineral Basin, as the moon casts its glow on the American Fork Twin Peaks above.

50 skiutah.com

to

Dawn What goes down up on the mountain after the lifts stop spinning for the day

by Sean Zimmerman-Wall photos by Jay Dash

I

t begins the afternoon before. “We received 10 inches today, which brings our storm total to 16 inches since last night. There’s a full canyon closure tonight and more snow on the way,” says Chris Bremer, Snowbird’s snow safety supervisor. “It’s going to be a busy morning tomorrow.”

The audience is the resort’s mountain operations staff, the crew charged with the seemingly insurmountable task of preparing one of North America’s premier steep-skiing destinations for the eager masses who await.

Residing near the top of a dead-end road in the Wasatch Range’s venerable Little Cottonwood Canyon, Snowbird is ideally situated to absorb the brunt of powerful northwest storms that drop copious amounts of white gold on this once-upon-a-time silver mining encampment. More than 3,000 feet of vertical relief separate the resort’s base area from its Hidden Peak high point, which also serves as the terminus of Snowbird’s iconic Tram. Snowbird’s sprawling drainages—Gad Valley, Peruvian Gulch and Mineral Basin—housing more than 150 runs, culminate at this pinnacle as well. However, long before the first rider steps off the Tram dock at 9:10 a.m., dozens of dedicated employees working across various shifts are busy through the night prepping the mountain for skiing and riding the next day. Here’s a behindthe-scenes look at what that entails.

the greatest snow on earth

51

Members of Snowbird’s snowmaking staff fine tune the direction of a snow gun along the Lupine Loop in Mineral Basin.

The Night Belongs to Snowmakers Snowmakers, those steely

snowmakers create massive

technicians who take to the

piles of snow—often referred

mountain mostly at night, deliver

to as whales—for the groomers

the additional boost to the bounty

to spread along the slopes,

that Mother Nature provides

manicuring the creamy substrate

each season. From mid-October

into a skiable surface that

through January, crews of five to

connects riders to their favorite

seven snowmakers draw long,

stashes. “I have been here since

white lines across the mountain’s

day one of snowmaking back in

critical corridors with the power of

the early ’90s,” says Rusty Johnson,

wind, water and brawn. Each snow

Snowbird head of snowmaking

gun is strategically placed and

and assistant director of snowcats.

diligently monitored to ensure it

“The job has evolved to cover the

delivers a product that is almost as

whole mountain and is now over

good as the real thing. Long, frigid

80 percent automated. But it still

nights are spent standing proximal

takes a skilled crew to monitor and

to machines that resemble the

run, noon to midnight, midnight

turbine of a Boeing 737. Moving

to noon. That’s what it takes to get

methodically from run to run,

the mountain set up early season.”

Smoothing out the Bookends traverse in Mineral Basin.

Smooth Operators

52 skiutah.com

Like a military procession, a fleet

and ice. Navigating through the

of tracked snowcats moves into

darkness with speed and precision

position every evening to spend

takes years of practice and endless

the night remastering the piste

patience. “Here at Snowbird, most

for the following morning. Each

of the snowmakers are also the

operator commands their vessel

cat drivers, and they know the

across the mountain, and works in

mountain well,” Johnson says.

concert to smooth out the bumps

“Shift changes happen around

and ruts that skiers and boarders

1 a.m., allowing the team to cover

create each day. The crew also

the entire resort efficiently. Every

ensures that certain areas of the

night we strive for maximum

mountain are leveled out after

acreage, and it’s satisfying to clean

massive snowfalls so the lifts can

up the mountain and bring the

run unencumbered and the patrol

place back to its corduroy state.”

can access specific areas with

Wrapping up their grooming shift

ease. Cruising by moonlight and

around sunrise, the drivers let the

headlight, each snowcat is its own

next team take the reins to begin

world within a universe of snow

moving people up the mountain.

A snowcat heading from Hidden Peak toward the Road to Provo traverse.

An electrician gingerly traverses beams at Snowbird’s 11,000-foot Hidden Peak. The work is necessary to remove ice buildup from camera equipment operators use to safely dock the 125-passenger tram.

Snow removal is a neverending job at Snowbird.

Here a Tram operator snowblows the Hidden Peak platform.

Stairway to Heaven Sentries The first members of Snowbird’s

and riders along a 1.6-mile cable

“Getting my team, and the rest of

Tram and Lifts Department arrive

and up 2,900 vertical feet to

the mountain operations staff, up

for work at 5:30 a.m. The central

the 11,000-feet-above-sea-level

the mountain safely and efficiently

artery to Snowbird’s beating heart

Hidden Peak in just 10 minutes.

is my greatest challenge and my

is the tram. This marvel of Swiss

A dedicated team of operators,

biggest reward,” Durrant says.

engineering makes it all possible.

electricians and mechanics keep

Resort founders Dick Bass and

the tram’s bullwheels turning in all

core staff of lifties moves out to join

Ted Johnson had the foresight

conditions. Led by Tram Supervisor

the electricians and mechanics

to expertly place this modern

Rachael Durrant, a 23-year

spread across Snowbird’s 12

wonder in the ideal location to

Snowbird veteran, the symphony

other lifts. Once these cabled-

access thousands of acres of

of moving parts and people plays

conveyances are up and running,

world-class terrain. First opened

out every day of the winter season,

the next team slips on their red

in 1971, the tram whisks 125 skiers

which last year spanned 191 days.

GORE-TEX and heads uphill.

Alongside the tram operators, a

the greatest snow on earth

53

Members of Snowbird’s Ski Patrol gather in Hidden Peak headquarters for the daily morning meeting at 7 a.m.

Stewards of Safety The Snowbird Ski Patrol’s 11,000-

The orchestration required

foot Hidden Peak headquarters

to keep a mountain resort open

serves as the nerve center for daily

the average 180 days per season

operations. By 7 a.m. the crew of

is astounding. Millions of hours

nearly 40 professional rescuers

of hard work, perfectly timed

and avalanche technicians

movements and a bit of luck allow

arrives for the morning meeting.

Snowbird—along with all other

Under the direction of seasoned

Utah resorts—to collectively host

supervisors, each team member

just over five million skier and

develops a plan with his or her

snowboarder visits per season.

partner to lay siege to the newly

“Our mission is to always provide

fallen snow. “Just getting to this

the best mountain product we

point is difficult, and there is a

can and provide this in the safest

lot of interdependency across

way possible for guests and staff

departments,” says Kent Bernier,

to enjoy. This philosophy runs

assistant Snowbird Ski Patrol

through every decision we make

director. “We enjoy opening lots of

as a group,” says Jake Treadwell,

terrain and getting it skied as soon

director of mountain operations

as possible.” Moving through a pre-

at Snowbird.

determined series of routes, each

54 skiutah.com

Whether it is the steeps you

patrol team works the terrain with

seek, storm-day tree skiing or

skis and explosives to mitigate

carving GS turns into perfectly

the hazard that developed

manicured corduroy, rest assured,

overnight. Once the avalanche

a group of passionate people is

problem has been assessed and

showing up every morning and

deemed manageable, the final

night to give that to you. So, next

touches of ensuring rope lines and

time you are on the slopes, high-

signage are adequately placed is

five a liftie, thank a groomer or

completed. At 9 a.m., the opening

snowmaker or buy a patroller a

bell rings and the powder dreams

beer. Because without these fine

of thousands are realized.

folks, we’d all be walking uphill.

Both hand-thrown and machinelaunched explosives are used to mitigate avalanches at Snowbird.

A pair of ski patrollers work at the Mineral Basin Avalauncher.

Lots of man (and woman) hours go into preparing Snowbird’s slopes for the public.

Here a team of ski patrollers hikes along the American Fork Twin Peaks avalanche control route bootpack.

the greatest snow on earth

55

56 skiutah.com

the POWDER HOUND

the FOODIE

the EXPLORER

the URBANITE

A Weekend in the

Mountains,

Perfected

by Jeremy Pugh

You’ve planned for months and, finally, the time has come—a long weekend in the Utah mountains. You try not to gloat to your colleagues as you leave your desk behind on Thursday evening. But your out-of-office reply is clear: “I’ll be out until Monday and will NOT be checking emails while I’m gone.” No more work time, meeting time, client-call time or screen time. You’re on mountain time now.

Here we offer four distinctly different, hourby-hour itineraries so you can spend your precious down(hill) time wisely.

the greatest snow on earth

57

for the POWDER HOUND World famous for steep, challenging terrain, Snowbird and Alta are bucket-list spots, perfect for hardchargers with ample beginner and intermediate terrain for the rest of us.

7:45 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Lift off. Literally. Soak up this unforgettable day of flight+run, flight+run—quick, mid-air snacks— flight+run, flight+run, et al, to untracked lines in more than 80,000 acres of the Wasatch Range’s most spectacular backcountry.

FRIDAY 1 p.m.

Land at airport code SLC. Grab a shuttle or a car share to the Snowpine Lodge (snowpine.com, 801-742-2000), a chic, Southwest-meets-mod hotel offering ski-in/ski-out access at Alta and rooms ranging from luxurious mountain-view suites to monastic dorms.

Stow your bags and grab your gear. Alta’s base is situated at 8,500’ above sea level, so use the time before the lifts stop running for the day at 4:45 p.m. to ski off your jet lag on Roller Coaster, a long, intermediate cruiser off the Sugarloaf lift or the glades off the Collins lift in Westward Ho.

SATURDAY

5 p.m.

It’s well past time for drinks at the Alta Lodge’s classic Sitzmark Club (altalodge.com, 800-707-2582). Settle in by the fire, buy a local a beer and gather some intel for tomorrow’s deep dive into the Wasatch Backcountry.

6 a.m.

You did listen when we advised you to call it an early night on Friday, right? You’ll need to be at the Snowbird helipad bright-eyed and bushy-tailed for your briefing at Powderbird Helicopter Skiing (powderbird.com, 801-742-2800).

Fuel up on breakfast while you pay careful attention to the rules of the non-road.

6 p.m.

Dinner at The Snowpine. Mosey to the game room after dinner to get to know your powder-hungry brethren. But call it an early night with some bedtime check-ins on tomorrow’s forecast at powderbuoy.com and opensnow.com.

SUNDAY

7 p.m.

5 p.m.

Beers and free popcorn (ask for the pretzel-laden “spliff mix”) at Peruvian Lodge Bar (altaperuvian. com, 801.742-3000), Alta’s most famous (or infamous) ski bar. Every surface of the “P-Dog” is covered in memorabilia from 75-plus years of Alta’s existence. Pro tip: Locals live by the mantra “popcorn is not dinner.” Heed that warning.

Pick your protein: steak. Pick your starch: twice-cooked cheese potatoes. Pick your greens: a tossed salad drowned in housemade

8 a.m.

9 p.m.

How are you still awake? You might talk the bartender at the Tram Club (located next to the Steak Pit) into another round but, really?

super-chunky blue cheese dressing.

Welcome to Snowbird’s Steak Pit (reservations: 801-933-2222, Snowbird valet shuttle: 801-933-2192), featuring prime dry-aged USDA cuts and a wine list to delight your palate.

2 p.m.

Sunday belongs to Snowbird (snowbird.com, 801-933-2222, Catch the first Tram (9 a.m.) and eye The Cirque as you crest the top of Hidden Peak. If there’s fresh snow that’s where the masses will head. Don’t take the bait. They go left, you go right to the High Baldy Traverse where runs like Fields of Glory, Thanks for the Memories and Center of Gravity await.

Inter-what?

Occasionally so much snow falls in Little Cottonwood Canyon that local authorities require everyone in the canyon to stay indoors, by law, until the avalanche danger can be mitigated—a condition known as interlodge. While it can be inconvenient—particularly if you have a flight to catch—interlodge typically occurs just a few times per season and usually lasts for just a few hours.

58 skiutah.com

for the FOODIE So you officially came here for the skiing but, umm, how long do you actually have to ski before it’s time to eat?

We have you with a weekend at Sundance and Park City to fulfill all your schussing and epicurean dreams.

8 p.m.

FRIDAY

Dinner at the Tree Room (reservations: 866-627-8313), winner of the Forbes Travel Guide four-star rating and the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence. Yes, that’s a tree in the middle of the room. Redford prides himself on preserving the natural landscape and, well, no need to cut down a beautiful tree, right?

1 p.m.

Shuttle up to Sundance Mountain Resort (sundanceresort.com, 801225-4107) owned by Robert Redford and named for his famous role in Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid. Check into a Sundance Suite, cozy stand-alone cabins with fireplaces and sitting areas.

2 p.m.

Night-skiing goes until 9 p.m., giving you plenty of time to get out there.

Before the sun goes down, however, head to Red’s Summit (the top of the mountain) and let your jaw drop over the sweeping, 360-degree views of the Wasatch Range.

Noon

10 p.m.

After some blissful schussing around Deer Valley’s immaculately groomed terrain make your way to lunch at Rime Seafood and Raw Bar (top of Mountaineer Express lift, rimerawbar. com), which offers flown-in fresh oysters and Connecticut-style (no mayo) lobster rolls, really.

Take your whiskey neat at Sundance’s Owl Bar. This bar, as in, the actual bar was salvaged from a watering hole in Thermopolis, WY. where Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid plotted their schemes.

8 a.m.

Say good-bye to Sundance and head to Park City (Express Shuttle, expressshuttleutah.com). Drop your bags at the Torchlight Inn (torchlightinn.com, 435-612-0345), conveniently located in Park City’s picturesque historic district and on the free bus line accessing your next stop: Deer Valley Resort (deervalley. com, 435-649-1000).

SATURDAY 7 a.m.

Sit down for a breakfast of chilaquiles or smoked salmon eggs benedict at Sundance’s Foundry Grill or grab a breakfast burrito and coffee from the Sundance Deli.

4 p.m.

Take your afternoon après with a glass of gewürztraminer and a fondue session at the Goldener Hirsch Inn (Silver Lake Village base area, goldenerhirsch inn. com, 435-649-7770).

6 p.m.

Time to go to Park City’s Historic Main Street to stroll the shops and people watch until a late dinner at High West Distillery’s Nelson Cottage (highwest. com, 435-513-6653) which offers lavish, one-seating-a-night dinners complete with whiskey pairings from the world’s only ski-in/ski-out distillery.

Noon

SUNDAY 8 a.m.

Sip cold-pressed morning joe while fueling up with a Buddha bowl at Harvest (harvestparkcity.com, 435604-0463), a hip little restaurant just off of Main Street.

9 a.m.

Clomp over to the Town Lift and get ready to explore Park City Mountain (parkcitymountain.com, 435-6498111) which, at 7,300 acres, is the largest resort in the U.S. Yeah, it’s exhausting but don’t worry, lunch will come soon. Work up an appetite with laps on the intermediate runs under the Silverlode Lift like Parleys Park and Mel’s Alley. Take the Quicksilver Gondola to the Canyons side (where lunch is).

Cloud Dine, perched on Dream Peak, Cloud Dine is a cafeteria-style lunch stop with gourmet-level food and stellar views. The Niçoise salad with sushi-grade tuna, is a perfect example. Be sure to save room for the house-made doughnuts. Burn off those extra calories in the chutes, glades and bowls off of the NinetyNine 90 lift. On your way down the mountain you’ll surely be reeled in by the perfume of smoking meat as you pass the Tombstone BBQ (at the Tombstone lift base) with its daily bounty of smoked brisket, pork and sausage. The perfect quick snack before heading to the airport.

BYO How To While Utah’s liquor laws have a reputation for being a little quirky (i.e., wine and liquor is avaliable at Utah state liquor stores while beer can be purchased in grocery and convenient stores), the state’s liquor stores are well stocked, and it’s perfectly kosher to bring your own wine into a restaurant. Brown bagging, as it is called, is subject to a corkage fee, which at just $10 to $20 per bottle, is still a bargain.

the greatest snow on earth

59

for the EXPLORER

FRIDAY

Above the northern Utah city of Ogden, in the beautiful Ogden Valley, you’ll find two lesservisited but still übercharming resorts, Nordic Valley and Powder Mountain.

Noon Enjoy a big ol’ burrito at Hidden Lake Lodge (and maybe a beer) and enjoy the view of four states from the very top of Powder Mountain.

4 p.m.

Beers at the Powder Keg, where most days you’ll find John Burrows behind the mic with The Wasatch Wild Band in the corner bashing their way through crowdpleasing covers.

1 p.m.

Catch a shuttle to the Compass Rose Lodge (compassroselodge.com, 385-279-4460) a 15-room, boutique hotel with a unique, hipster-farmhouse vibe, located in convenient proximity to both Nordic Valley and Powder Mountain in Huntsville.

SATURDAY 9 a.m.

Behold Powder Mountain (powdermountain.com, 801-745-3772)— or “Pow Mow” in the local lingo. The resort limits the number of skiers and riders on the mountain each day to ensure plenty of elbow room.

Spend your first day here exploring the piste. We’ll get into the wild (big time) tomorrow.

3 p.m.

Make your way to Nordic Valley (nordicvalley.com, 801-745-3511), a small, family-friendly hill in the lower hills of the valley that runs the lifts until 8 p.m. Nordic is a casual place with inexpensive lift tickets to get your ski legs on.

9 p.m.

Explore the night sky at the Compass Rose’s own private observatory. The powerful HALO telescope reveals celestial bodies like the rings of Saturn or Jupiter’s Galilean Moons.

7 p.m.

Welcome to the oldest bar in Utah, The Shooting Star (shooting-starsaloon.business.site, 801-745-2002), with its tattered dollar bills covering the ceiling, old-school juke box and surprisingly tasty burgers. Dining options are a little slim in this part of Utah, so settle in and enjoy the Shooting Star Burger, with a split knockwurst included. Yes. That is a stuffed Saint Bernard on the wall over the third booth. P.S. The Shooting Star only accepts cash.

5 p.m.

Noon

Take the evening to explore hipster downtown Ogden and tuck into a bowl of steaming ramen from Ramen Haus (ramenhaus. business.site, 801-393-0000). Finish off with the surprising honey toast—scoops of vanilla ice cream, piled in a hollowed-out loaf of imported Japanese brioche and drizzled with, of course, honey.

Grab a slice of pizza at Lucky Slice in Timberline Lodge. Lucky Slice’s home oven is down the hill in Ogden and they pride themselves on the best New York-style pizza in Utah.

Then get back to the sidecountry before it’s regretfully (hello, reality) time to head to the airport.

SUNDAY 9 a.m.

Today we go off trail. The real deal at Pow Mow is the snow cat skiing on Lightning Ridge. A fleet of cats serves ungroomed terrain on the backside of the resort and opens up an in-bound backcountry experience that locals would rather we not tell you about. You can pay per ride or buy a pack of cat tickets. (Hint: You’ll want the pack of tickets.)

Stashes Revealed Are you an intermediate to advanced skier or rider who’s all about making the most of your time exploring Powder Mountain’s 8,000-plus acres? Discover this resort’s amazing terrain in the company of its seasoned guides by booking the In-Bounds Tour, a full-day adventure tailored to your group’s abilities that includes one Lightning Ridge Snowcat Pass per person.

60 skiutah.com

for the URBANITE Make downtown Salt Lake City your base camp for a yin-yang weekend of checking out Utah’s capitol city, Big Cottonwood Canyon and Snowbasin.

FRIDAY 1 p.m.

Check into the swanky and creative-yet-tasteful Hotel Monaco (monaco-saltlakecity.com, 801-595-0000) located right in the heart of Salt Lake City (and that hosts daily wine receptions in the hip, art deco lobby). Dump your bags and get onto a shuttle up to Brighton Resort (brightonresort.com, 801-532-4731).

SATURDAY

10 p.m.

Stop in for a nightcap on Salt Lake’s Main St., dubbed “Whiskey Street” for its proliferation of watering holes (one of which is actually called Whiskey Street). We like Alibi Bar & Place (369 S. Main St.) for its nononsense bartenders who put the craft in craft-cocktails.

9 a.m.

Get the SolBright day ticket when you arrive at Solitude, which will allow you to explore all of Solitude and Brighton’s combined 142 runs.

Ski until your legs give out or your belly aches for food. Don’t worry about time: Brighton prides itself on 200 acres for night-skiing, open until 9 p.m.

7 p.m.

7 a.m.

Rise early and head back up Big Cottonwood to Solitude Mountain Resort (solitudemountain.com, 801534-1400). Make time to stop along the way at the Silver Fork Lodge (silverforklodge.com, 801-533-9977), a cozy place for a hearty breakfast.

3 p.m.

Downtown Salt Lake City boasts hundreds of eateries, from fast casual to five-star. HSL (hslrestaurant. com, 801-539-9999) is known for its inventive small plates, gorgeous cocktails and using locally sourced, creative ingredients. Afterward, catch a touring Broadway musical, an NBA game, live music, comedy club—the options are truly endless (theblocksslc.com).

Noon

SUNDAY 7 a.m.

4 p.m.

Sip a beer from the long list of drafts, bottles and cans at Solitude’s funky Thirsty Squirrel bar before heading back to Hotel Monaco for dinner at its stellar on-site eatery, Bambara.

Get up sleepy head. You have a train to catch. Head to Ogden on the UTA Frontrunner (uta.com) and get off at historic Ogden Union Station (theunionstation.org) before taking the bus to Snowbasin.

9 a.m.

Snowbasin (snowbasin.com, 801620-1000) came into its own during the 2002 Olympic Winter Games, hosting the men’s and women’s downhill events. If the sun is shining, glide out to Strawberry Express Gondola for a morning of sunwashed groomer skiing.

Lunch in the John Paul Lodge situated below the “beer can” lift that takes skiers to the top of the men’s Olympic downhill course with views down into the Ogden Valley. After lunch, take the short ride up to the top of the mountain.

The view provides a fabulous endpoint to your weekend. (Don’t worry, you don’t have to drop into the steep Olympic-level course, you can ride down on the gondola.)

Getting Up There The Utah Transit Authority operates the FrontRunner train between Provo and Ogden, the ski bus to many of Utah’s 15 resorts and TRAX light rail lines, which connect to several points along the Wasatch Front and the Salt Lake City International Airport. (Tip: A FrontRunner pass can be used again as a bus ticket within two hours of purchase.) Map out all your transportation needs at skiutah.com/skibus.

the greatest snow on earth

61

Say hello to your brand new, bigger, better Salt Lake City International Airport (SLC), arriving in 2020. The New SLC will replace the three existing terminals with one large, modern terminal that has the capacity to

S.SecchiÂŽ

meet the ever-growing demands of a major air transportation hub. To learn more, visit SLCairport.com

62 skiutah.com

The

Greatest Snow on

Earth

and Much, Much More

by Melissa Fields

B

y now you know what a sure bet Utah is in terms of snowfall. Case in point: last

season, all of the state’s resorts, from north to south, had base depths measuring in feet rather than inches on their spring closing dates (except Snowbird, which stayed open for skiing through July 4). But what may be less apparent are the unique characteristics that define each resort. Things that, on your own, might take multiple seasons to suss out, like Eagle Point’s Powder Fridays, the off-menu dirty chai at Alta Java or sipping a Spicy Steve at Sundance’s Owl Bar. Until now, that is.

Along with the need-to-know 411 about all 15 Utah resorts, on the following pages we let you in on a curated gathering of insider beta, ranging from the greatest place for your kids to learn to turn and the coolest mountainside live music venue, to how to get guaranteed first tracks and the surreal slopeside spa you gotta check out. Everything you need to make a ski trip to Utah one of your greatest. You’re welcome.

Evelibus ex ernam debit iur aut la venimil icatemporum evenihit, quuntot atemporerios vellest endu sciaspel ius dollitis dolore essimus.

D Chris Pearson

Turn the page to start planning your greatest winter getaway ever.

earth the greatest snow on earth

63 25

The recently renovated Grand Summit Hotel, located in Canyons Village

Park City Mountain Average annual snowfall: 360" Vertical: 3,200' Highest point: 10,000' above sea level Skiable acres: 7,300

S

on your own? No problem.

ince 2015, when

that began with a $15 million

installation of

remodel of the marquee

the Quicksilver

Grand Summit Hotel and the

acreage also means that

Snowboard School instructors

gondola connected the

recent addition of several other

there’s plenty of space to

show you the way on a Peak

previously separate Park

lodging properties including

get away and find your

to Peak Guided Experience

City Mountain Resort

YotelPad, Lift, Apex Residences

own personal bliss. Not

(parkcityskischool@vailresorts.

and Canyons, Park City

and more. Or stay in a house

comfortable navigating Park

com, 435-658-5530).

Mountain has held the

or boutique hotel in Park City’s

City Mountain’s 7,300 acres

unmatched distinction

historic district, known as Old

of being the largest lift-served

Town, and access the resort via

ski resort in the United States.

the Town Lift.

But after just one visit to this

Park City Mountain’s on-

super-sized resort, you’ll see

mountain terrain is as varied

that Park City—as it is most

as its lodging options. Within

often referred—is as much

the resort’s massive 7,300 acres

about substance as it is about

you’ll find it all, from buttery

size.

groomers and thigh-burner

First there’s the variety of

This resort’s sweeping

Let one of the resort’s Ski &

When you come, be sure to

Park City Mountain’s plentiful acreage makes it easy to find your own personal bliss

bumps to powder-filled

ski-in/ski-out lodging (435-

bowls and easy-does-it pistes

602-4099). The Park City

meandering past stately

Mountain Village offers a

mountain homes. The new

classic mountain lodging

wide-open, evenly graded High

experience with resort hotels

Meadow Park learning area

and condos surrounding a

was designed by the resort’s

charming base area of shops,

Ski & Snowboard School

restaurants, and an ice rink.

and is an excellent place for

The Canyons Village base is

beginners to work on their

in the midst of a renaissance

turns and intermediates to

DISTANCE FROM SLC AIRPORT: 32 MILES

64 skiutah.com

refine technique.

Multi-resort Passes Accepted

1

(435) 649-8111 PARKCITYMOUNTAIN.COM

History To Go Glimpse Park City’s colorful history with a free Silver to Slopes guided ski tour of the dozens of historic silver mining– era structures still standing within the resort boundaries. This tour departs daily from the Park City Mountain Village’s Eagle Statue at 10 a.m. and at the Trail Map near the top of the Bonanza lift at 1 p.m.

2

3

Shaken, not Stirred

Send It, Vicariously

Nestled near the base of the Pioneer and McConkey’s

For a glimpse of a Method Air, Backside 540 Mute,

chairlifts is the Mid-Mountain Lodge. Constructed as a

Frontside Double Cork and much more, be sure to

miner’s boarding house in 1896, this charming building was

slide over to Park City Mountain’s Eagle Race Arena,

saved from demolition, moved a mile uphill to its current

located near the base of the First Time chairlift. There

location and transformed into a skiers day lodge in 1986. The

you can’t miss the 22-foot-deep, 550-foot long Eagle

Mid-Mountain received its latest—and most spectacular—

Superpipe, which has hosted the best in the world for

renovation last year and now offers tasty bistro-inspired food

Olympic, Grand Prix and World Championships events.

and a full bar. The lodge’s enormous deck is the place to be

Drop in, if you dare, or simply live vicariously through

on sunny days.

the athletes who train there throughout the season.

bring your appetite. More than

Urban Connection

Get Your Grüv On

a dozen on-mountain eateries

For a bird’s-eye view of Park City’s funky historic district,

You’d be hard-pressed to find a bigger or more elab-

dot the landscape at Park City

known as Old Town, catch a ride from lower Main Street

orate celebration of spring than Park City Mountain’s

Mountain, with dozens more

on the Town Lift. Yes, this chair is a slower fixed-grip triple,

Spring Grüv Festival. This two-week-long on-mountain

at both base areas. Highlights

but we wouldn’t have it any other way. The 20ish-minute

bash (typically the last week of March and first week of

include the homemade donuts

ride provides ample time to take in the views over vintage

April) includes rocking concerts, free s’mores roasting,

and pretzel dogs at Cloud Dine,

mining homes and dense aspen groves before depositing

meet and greets with avalanche dogs and the

the Lookout Cabin’s cheese

passengers near the base of the Bonanza lift.

infamous pond-skimming competition.

fondue, the made-to-order tuna poke bowl at the newly transformed Mid-Mountain Lodge and the BBQ beef brisket at Tombstone BBQ.

1 With 229 days of sun annually, bluebird days are common at Park City Mountain. 2 The Spring Grüv Festival’s pond-skimming competition. 3 Park City Mountain boasts eight terrain parks and two halfpipes. 4 Lessons are offered for kids as young as three.

5 Dozens of restaurants and bars dot Park City’s Main Street. 6 More than half of Park City Mountain’s terrain is rated intermediate.

Finally, even those who don’t ski or ride love Park City Mountain’s unique proximity to downtown Park City, a bona fide community with a rocking nightlife, tons of shops and galleries, innovative dining options and a charming historic district that still looks a lot like its former iteration as a silver mining outpost.

New for 2019–20 The Epic Day Pass, a customizable pass for skiers and riders who don’t need the

4

unlimited skiing offered by the Epic Season Pass, drops in price with each additional day purchased. The previously outdoor Tombstone BBQ is now a fully enclosed indoor restaurant with seating for 50 and a beer bar. And a new four-passenger chairlift that cuts about 20 minutes off the commute between the Park City Mountain Village and Canyons Village.

5

6 the greatest snow on earth

65

Average annual snowfall: 547" Vertical: 2,538'

A

D Chris Pearson

Open since 1939, Alta is one of the oldest ski resorts in the country.

a e r A i k S a Alt

Multi-resort Passes Accepted

sk a Salt

Cottonwood Canyon road

avalanche control work, those

natives and visitors—coming

Lake City

closure and fell in love.”

on the upside of the closure

back to this renowned resort

are treated to a country club

is Alta’s old school/new school

transplant

Wait a minute, you’re

what spurred them to

probably thinking, being stuck

kind of experience, i.e. the lifts

persona. Alta is one of the

make the permanent

anywhere at any time would

at Alta (and Snowbird), start

U.S.’s three remaining skiers-

move to Utah from

be a huge pain in the you-

turning as scheduled, giving

only mountain resorts but was

Buffalo, Chicago, Los

know-what. But not at Alta.

everyone staying slopeside

also among the first resorts

Angeles, etc., and,

When monster snowstorms

first and, until the road opens,

in the U.S. to use RFID lift

more often than you’d

cause the Utah Department

exclusive dibs on fresh,

ticket technology, eliminating

expect the answer is “During

of Transportation to close the

untracked powder.

the discomfort of digging

a ski vacation, I got stuck

winding Little Cottonwood

on the Alta side of a Little

Canyon Road due to

Highest point: 11,068' above sea level Skiable acres: 2,614

But what keeps many of those transplants—along with

into your jacket for your ski pass before boarding the lift.

1

DISTANCE FROM SLC AIRPORT: 37 MILES

66 skiutah.com

D Chris Pearson

Alta remains a place where millennials and baby boomers mingle easily in the lift lines and on the slopes.

(801) 359-1078 ALTA.COM

D Lee Cohen

2

3

4

5

Last winter, Alta’s historic Snowpine Lodge underwent an extensive remodel that brought a new level of luxury accommodations to the

1 Alta logged 626 inches of snow for the 2018–19 winter season. 2 The beginning of another postcard-perfect day in Little Cottonwood Canyon. 3 Lunch with a side of incredible views at Collin’s Grill. 4 Inside the Snowpine Lodge’s Stillwell Spa is the Grotto, a surreally relaxing space carved out of the lodge’s original granite foundation. 5 Alta is known for its right-side-up storms, where wetter snow falls first, followed by Utah’s signature light, dry powder. 6 Sun, sips and smiles at the Albion Base Area’s Alta Java.

resort while, at the same time, maintained a piece of Alta’s traditional ski bum

Take the Inbounds Tour

culture by including the

Don’t hesitate to upgrade to the AltaBird pass, your

previous property’s dorm-

ticket to glide all of Alta and neighboring Snowbird’s

style lodging in the remodel.

5,000+ combined acres via the connection at the top

And Alta remains a place

of the Sugarloaf lift. Buy an AltaBird at the base area

where millennials and baby

ticket windows or upgrade your Alta day pass at the

boomers mingle easily both

ticket shack perched on Sugarloaf Pass at the Alta/

in the lift line and on holy

Snowbird boundary.

grail slopes like High Rustler, Westward Ho and Gunsight.

While Alta continues to make

Sip & Size Up

improvements to lifts and

When you’re ready for a midday break, slide into Alta

infrastructure every season,

Java, a ski-up espresso bar at Alta’s Albion Day Lodge

it is also one of Utah’s most

offering hot drinks in cool, hand-thrown ceramic

environmentally focused ski

mugs and homemade snacks like banana bread and

areas, employing a full-time

frittatas. Once you have a bevvy and treat in hand, take

Two Planks Only, Please

sustainability manager who

a load off on one of the lawn chairs set up on the snow

No offense to snowboarders, of course, but Alta re-

works closely with the U.S.

nearby to watch skiers make laps on High Rustler.

mains one of three resorts in the U.S. (and, along with

Forest Service to be good stewards of its coveted Little Cottonwood Canyon home.

6

Deer Valley, one of two in Utah) that’s skiers-only.

Stone Sanctuary Inside the newly renovated Snowpine Lodge’s Stillwell

A Civilized Respite

Spa (snowpine.com) is a Zen-like space known as The

Though Alta’s base lodges offer a wide range of refu-

Alf’s restaurant, at the base of

Grotto. The walls of this subterranean hot tub are lined

eling options, we recommend spending at least one

Supreme and Sugarloaf lifts,

with granite limestone—similar to that found in Little

lunch hour at Collin’s Grill. Located on the top level

has added 150 more seats,

Cottonwood Canyon—the lights are turned low and

of Watson Shelter, this Euro-bistro’s modern space is

a full-service ski shop and a

the only sounds are soft music and water gently cas-

defined by sweeping views of the surrounding moun-

slopeside coffee shop. And

cading out of the rock. Access this little slice of warm

tainsides. Take off your boots and don a pair of slippers

25 percent of the Wildcat lot

and sensory-deprived nirvana as a hotel guest or with a

before tucking into a bowl of French onion soup, roast-

will be dedicated to cars with

spa day pass. Services there range from massage and

ed beet salad or Utah trout. And go ahead and have

three or more passengers.

facials to hair styling and oxygen therapy.

that glass of wine or a cocktail—you’ve earned it.

New for 2019–20

the greatest snow on earth

67

Deer Valley Resort Average annual snowfall: 300" Vertical: 3,000' Highest point: 9,570' above sea level

Lodging and dining options are plentiful at Deer Valley’s Silver Lake Village.

Skiable acres: 2,026

68 skiutah.com

A

n image of

Multi-resort Passes Accepted

An area this iconic resort

the late Stein

has more than “got” is its

Eriksen in a

slope conditions. Deer Valley’s

gleaming Bogner one-

runs remain consistently

piece with nary a hair

groomed to perfection, not

out of place, making

only day-to-day but year-to-

a perfectly arced turn

year as well. That’s because

down a snowy slope

this resort has invested

under a cerulean sky

heavily in its snowmaking and

is, for many, the ultimate

grooming infrastructure and

personification of Deer

equipment every summer

Valley Resort. Rest assured,

since it opened in 1981. In

everything that Eriksen

fact, 76 percent of the resort’s

represented at Deer Valley

103 runs are augmented by

remains, like how ski valets run

snowmaking—the ideal back

up to unload your skis from

up to 300 average annual

your car as you arrive at the

inches of natural snowfall.

base lodges; the impeccable

What this means is that Deer

grooming, five-star food and

Valley’s favorite groomed

stellar ski school; and, best

runs—like Jordanelle, Nabob,

of all, Deer Valley’s friendly,

Tycoon, Hidden Treasure and

“we’ve got this” air.

Hawkeye—ski as flawlessly

DISTANCE FROM SLC AIRPORT: 36 MILES

1

While Deer Valley is renowned for its expertly groomed runs, its off -piste skiing is just as spectacular.

(435) 649-1000 DEERVALLEY.COM

in mid-December as they do mid-March. Sample the best of Deer Valley grooming team’s labors on a complimentary tour guided by the resort’s mountain hosts. Not only do these tours highlight Deer Valley’s excellent grooming, but you’ll also learn a bit of resort history and trivia.

But don’t discount Deer

2

Valley’s off-piste goods. On powder days, the place to be is the Daly Chutes. Or head over to the runs in Mayflower Bowl—Mayflower Chutes, Fortune Teller or the long thigh-burner Orient Express— which often stay untracked until noon (except for your tracks, of course). In the spring or on warmer days, the northfacing runs to skier’s left of the Sultan Express lift line—Grizzly,

3

4

5

Peerless, Ruins of Pompei and Evergreen—hold the best offpiste snow the longest.

Deer Valley remains, of course, the resort that continues to redefine the notion of on-mountain

1 Though he passed away in 2015, Olympian Stein Eriksen’s inimitable style and spirit lives on at Deer Valley. 2 The place to be on sunwashed afternoons is the Silver Lake Lodge Ski Beach. 3 You can enjoy Deer Valley’s renowned turkey chili at any of its day lodges or take it to go from the Deer Valley Grocery Café. 4 Olympian Kaylin Richardson leads a group on a Ski with a Champion tour. 5 A skier navigates the corduroy along the Stein’s Way run. Deer Valley consistently receives top honors for grooming in SKI magazine’s annual reader-ranked survey. 6 The ski school’s Gold Standard of Instruction means that lessons are customized to guests’ individual abilities and goals.

dining with options ranging from cheese burgers and charcuterie to pho and fondue.

Morning Jordanelle

While dining on mountain for

At the top of Deer Valley’s Little Baldy Peak (accessed

lunch at any of Deer Valley’s

via Mountaineer and the Jordanelle Gondola), point

day lodges is a no brainer,

your skis onto the intermediate Jordanelle ski run,

it’s well worth the return trip

named after the sweeping views of the Jordanelle

to make Deer Valley dinner

Reservoir that this run overlooks. Impeccably groomed

reservations at Mariposa, Royal

every day, the Jordanelle run skis best in the morning

Street Café, Seafood Buffet,

when the sun heats up the snow ever so slightly and

Fireside Dining and more.

makes its pristine corduroy “creamy” under your skis.

Where School Is In

Walk Like an Olympian

The folks at Deer Valley’s award-winning children’s

the world’s first-ever ski-in/ ski-out raw bar, opened at the

Give your family—or better yet, yourself—a dream

teaching kids to ski is about much more than sliding

top of the Jordanelle Gondola

come true with the Ski with a Champion experience,

on snow. There, kids are divided into age- and ability-

offering crudo, champagne,

a full or half day of guided skiing with one of six

appropriate groups ranging from 3 to 17 years old

lobster rolls and, of course,

Olympians including Ambassador of Skiing Heidi

where, in addition to working on their turns, they get

oysters on the half shell.

Voelker, Kaylin Richardson and Trace Worthington.

to cruise through Deer Valley’s wooded whoop-de-

(skiwithchamps@deervalley.com, 435-649-5766)

doo trails, make snow cones, ski with the Deer Valley

Last winter, Rime Seafood and Raw Bar (rimerawbar.com),

New for 2019–20 RFID scanning gates have

6

ski school (and state-licensed childcare) get that

mascots, build snowmen or, in the case of Teen Escape, simply ski around the resort out of the shadow of their

been installed at most of the

What’s for Dinner? Done!

resort’s 21 lifts, eliminating the

For decades, Deer Valley has been the act that all

need to unzip/untuck/undo

other resorts have followed when it comes to on-

to show staff your lift ticket.

mountain dining. And now you can dig into some

See and Be Seen

And digital signage has been

of Deer Valley’s more craveable favorites—including

The après-ski options at Deer Valley are many, but if

installed at Deer Valley’s base

turkey chili, chicken pot pie, braised short ribs, fresh

the sun is shining—and it does more than 200 days

lodges to provide real-time

cookies, Royal Street meatballs and much more—in

per year in Park City—grab a beer and take a seat

information on ticketing

the comfort of your rental home or condo. Simply

outside the Silver Lake Lodge at the Ski Beach. Not

availability and pricing,

order ahead (diningtogo.deervalley.com, 435-649-

only do these lounge chairs offer front-row seating to

lift operations, grooming

1000) or stop into the Deer Valley Grocery~Café (open

snow-sliding action on the Birdseye run, it is, hands

conditions and more.

until 6 p.m. daily) on your way off the mountain.

down, the best place to people watch in Park City.

parents. (435-645-6648, skierservices@deervalley.com)

the greatest snow on earth

69

D Chris Segal

Snowbird’s Tram whisks passengers up a 1.6-mile-long cable to Hidden Peak.

Snowbird Vertical: 3,200' Highest point: 11,000' above sea level Skiable acres: 2,500

N

o doubt,

the Summit Restaurant.

area, which is characterized

Snowbird’s accommodations

Snowbird

For the descent, pick your

by a sleek and modern

is the Cliff Lodge, where every

holds a place

poison—from expertly

Bauhaus architectural

well-appointed guest room

of almost mythical

groomed, sun-washed bowls

theme with a distinctively

looks out onto a spectacular

regard for skiers and

and tight, white-knuckle

Euro-contemporary vibe.

mountain view of either

snowboarders from

chutes to powder-filled glades

At the base, the pinnacle of

Snowbird’s runs or down

around the world. At

and meandering cruisers.

the center of this holy

Though Snowbird is known

grail–like ethos is the

for its challenge, have no fear:

Tram, a 125-passenger lift that

beginners and intermediates

whisks up 2,900 vertical feet

will find plenty to slide around

to the resort’s 11,000-foot-high

on at The ’Bird. And Snowbird’s

point, Hidden Peak, in just

Mountain School offers a full

10 minutes. When the Tram

range of instruction from

opened in 1971, it was one of

age-appropriate lessons for

the longest and most powerful

never-evers and teen camps

tramways in the world, and

to private guiding and one of

it remains so today. At the

the most renowned multiday

top, skiers and riders (and

women’s camps in the country.

foot passengers) can take in

skiers and riders from around the world

Snowbird is, however,

the sweeping, 360-degree

about much more than the

views for more than 100 miles

mountain. Multiple lodging,

through floor-to-cathedral-

dining, pampering and

ceiling windows at Snowbird’s

nightlife options populate the

newest on-mountain lodge,

resort’s well-conceived base

DISTANCE FROM SLC AIRPORT: 29 MILES

70 skiutah.com

Snowbird holds an almost mythical regard for

D Chris Pearson

Average annual snowfall: 500"

Multi-resort Passes Accepted

1 (801) 933-2222 SNOWBIRD.COM

Endless Winter Snowbird logged snowfall on 97 days of winter 2018–19, which piled up to a record-breaking 711 inches of snow for the season. Yes, Utah’s other resorts faired similarly well, but only Snowbird stayed open for skiing and riding through July 4—that’s a 191-day long season—which is not only the longest in Utah, but one of the longest in the world.

A World of Options

2

3

Skiing and riding Snowbird’s 168 runs via the Tram and

Wine Time

chairlifts is clearly the preferred modus operandi at this

Director of Food & Beverage Frederick Barbiere is at the

coveted Little Cottonwood Canyon resort. But you can also

heart of Snowbird’s exceedingly deep and diverse (more

indulge in a whole slew of other ways to get out onto the

than 1,200 different bottles) wine list. Barbiere also leverag-

snow at Snowbird, both within and just outside the resort

es his relationships with vintners from around the world to

boundary, including snowshoeing; heli skiing/snowboard-

present winemaker dinners, intimate evenings held twice

ing with Powderbird Helicopter Skiing (powderbird.com,

a month throughout the winter season at different resort

801-742-2800); snowcat skiing, backcountry touring and

restaurants.

avalanche education with Snowbird Guides (801-471-4387); and snowmobiling with Lofty Peaks (385-239-8196).

Everyone Knows Your Name

A “Moving” History Lesson

Beneath Snowbird’s Tram dock on level one of the Snow-

Sure, Snowbird’s tunnel from the top of the Peruvian

of Utah ski bars, the Tram Club. This sports/ski bum bar is

chairlift is an innovative way to get skiers from the resort’s

where many locals take après-ski refreshment in the form

dramatic Little Cottonwood

front side to its back bowls and groomers in Mineral Basin.

of $5 drink specials and spicy cheese fries at the end of the

Canyon to the Salt Lake

But how they used that 600-foot-long passageway to tell

day. Drop in here not only to get a dose of local culture but

Valley below. Amenities at

the story of the area’s mining history and resort develop-

also to catch a game on the big screen or, on the week-

The Cliff include an on-site

ment through photos and artifacts is what’s really smart.

ends, listen to live music.

bird Center is a bar affectionately known as the “Cheers”

ski rental and repair shop, complimentary guest ski lockers and a state-licensed daycare facility for kids as young as six weeks old.

1 While all abilities are at home at Snowbird, this resort is known for steep lines and ample snow. 2 Skiing on July 4, 2019. 3 The conveyor belt view inside the Peruvian Tunnel. 4 Taking a dip in The Cliff Spa’s decadent rooftop pool and hot tub. 5 Snowbird’s new SeventyOne Restaurant combines a funky atmosphere with great food. 6 Catching a ride with Powderbird Helicopter Skiing.

Of course no stay at Snowbird—or visit to Utah, for that matter—is complete without spending a little “me” time at The Cliff Spa. There you can work out the kinks with a massage or facial, rehydrate from the inside out in the eucalyptus steam room, take a swim or soak under the stars tub, find your Zen in a yoga class (the view from the yoga studio is just as awe-inspiring as it is from the guest rooms!) or simply sip a cup of tea and

D Matt Crawley

in the rooftop pool and hot

4

relax in the solarium.

New for 2019–20 Snowbird’s new restaurant, SeventyOne (located on the ground floor of The Cliff Lodge) serves mouthwatering, New American–themed dishes for breakfast, lunch and dinner against a fabulously funky 1970s-era interior design theme that pays homage to Snowbird’s 1971 founding.

5

6 the greatest snow on earth

71

Brighton Resort Average annual snowfall: 500" Vertical: 1,875' Highest point: 10,500' above sea level Skiable acres: 1,050

T

he “soul of

of Big Cottonwood Canyon,

skiing” is an

Brighton is typically among

ambiguous

the snowiest resorts in the

phrase that’s tossed

state following each winter

around frequently

storm. Brighton also has

among the snow sliding

super-efficient access to said

tribe, but what does

snow: it’s the only Utah resort

it really mean? Well, if

with 100 percent of its runs

skiing’s so-called soul is

accessed by high-speed quads.

a place, we reckon that it would

And then there’s the terrain:

look and feel a lot like the

dense glades, wide-open

iconic Brighton Resort.

bowls, steeps and bump runs

There you’ll find no five-star

are all what’s in store there,

D Sean Ryan

Multi-resort Passes Accepted

1

lodges, ski valets to carry your

plus in line with its unofficial

gear or Michelin star–rated

tagline—where Salt Laker’s

its neighbor, Solitude Mountain

what “soul of skiing” means

cuisine. What Brighton does

learn to ski—younger kids and

Resort, via the SolBright Trail,

is focusing unapologetically

have to offer, however, is lots

beginners will find ample easy

offering access to another 1,200

on snow and terrain and

and lots of snow; with its

groomers to slide around on,

acres of skiing and riding for

maintaining a come-as-you-are

fortunate location at the top

too. Brighton is connected to

SolBright ticket holders. So, if

vibe, then Brighton is that.

1 Plentiful snow and lots of natural terrain features make Brighton particularly popular with snowboarders. 2 Both locals and visitors revel in the casual, oldschool vibe at Molly Green’s. 3 Multiple terrain parks, appropriate for beginner to advanced riders, can be found off of the Majestic and Crest Express chairlifts.

4 Deal alert: kids age 10 and under ski or ride for FREE at Brighton.

Jibber’s Playground D Chris Pearson

Long, undulating runs pocketed with plenty of natural features draw snowboarders to Brighton Resort from both near and far. It’s not all about what falls from the sky, either. Brighton’s manmade terrain park is often touted as one of the best in the West and is the only among Utah’s Cottonwood Canyon resorts.

2

Après As It Was Meant to Be Stepping into Brighton’s A-frame base-area day lodge is a lot like stepping back in time: knotty pine paneling, taxidermy, beer signs and a huge stone fireplace make up the décor there. And if you’re looking for a craft cocktail or fondue, this is definitely not the place.

Instead revel in après the way it was meant to be at Molly Green’s Pub with a cold draft beer and a mountainous platter of nachos.

To the Kids Go the Spoils D Sean Ryan

The management at Brighton loves families—especially kids—so

3

much so in fact that up to two kids, age 10 and under, ski there for free—that’s gratis, nada, no dinero—with each pass-holding or

4

DISTANCE FROM SLC AIRPORT: 35 MILES

72 skiutah.com

paying adult, all winter long. Just go to the ticket window the day of your visit and the staff will happily set you up.

(801) 532-4731 BRIGHTONRESORT.COM

D Chris Pearson 1

Solitude Mountain Resort A

s ambiguous as the

facing ski or snowboard

experiential Solitude Yurt. And,

And Solitude will not

phrase “all things

vacation. In addition to sliding

when you go, be sure to carve

break the bank. While

to all people” may

Multi-resort Passes Accepted

Average annual snowfall: 500"

around on Solitude’s 80 runs,

out some “me time” for a visit

the best way to save

sound, the adage is an apt way

you can kick, glide and trek

to the Solitude Mountain Spa.

at Solitude is the Ikon

to describe Solitude Mountain

through lush pine and aspen

Resort. There, Big Cottonwood

tree stands along the resort’s

way to describe Solitude is to

rates there remain

Canyon’s craggy, glacier-carved

Nordic Center cross-country

explain what it is not. As the

about 30 percent less

peaks serve as the backdrop for

skiing and snowshoeing trails.

name suggests, Solitude is

than other resorts.

a quaint and cozy, European-

(Rentals and Nordic skiing

not crowded. You’ll gratefully

style base village with inviting,

instruction is also available.)

find plenty of room to roam on

New for 2019–20

not-too-fancy (i.e., nonstuffy)

Evening dining options range

Solitude’s scenic runs, which

A walk-up waffle window at the

lodging and all the necessities

from the well-executed St.

span wide-open groomers to

Moonbeam Lodge, complete

for a straightforward, outdoors-

Bernard’s to the memorably

knock-your-socks-off steeps.

with a toppings bar. Yum!

But probably the best

Pass, walk-up day ticket

Vertical: 2,494' Highest point: 10,488' above sea level Skiable acres: 1,200

1 The atmosphere at the quaint Solitude Village is appealingly intimate and low-key. 2 Solitude’s family-friendly groomed runs are complemented by coveted expert hike-to terrain including Highway to Heaven, Fantasy Ridge and Honeycomb Canyon. 3 The resort’s Nordic Center staff grooms 20K of track daily. 4 The curry fries is just one of the Roundhouse’s creative fusion dishes.

Two for You With the SolBright day ticket, not only do you get to slide around on Solitude’s 1,200 acres, but you also get to ski or ride Brighton Resort, which is connected to Solitude via the SolBrightTtrail.

Nordic Nirvana

2

It’s not all about the lifts at Solitude. The Solitude Nordic Center boasts 20 kilometers of both classic and skate skiing trails, groomed daily throughout the winter season. Or if you prefer walking, take a tour of 10 kilometers of snowshoeing trails, meandering through the towering and fragrant old-growth conifer trees between the Nordic Center and Solitude Village.

Cue the Curry Fries At Solitude’s funky mid-mountain restaurant, the Roundhouse, you can choose from hearty wintertime classics like chicken pot pie and burgers. But why would you when you can go for authentic Himalayan-inspired dishes like lamb curry, thukpa and naan? Or, better yet, dishes representing a fusion of the two? Our favorite

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DISTANCE FROM SLC AIRPORT: 33 MILES

late-afternoon ritual is sitting on the Roundhouse deck with a cold Utah microbrew and mounded plate of curry fries.

(801) 534-1400 SOLITUDEMOUNTAIN.COM

the greatest snow on earth

73

Average annual snowfall: 360" Vertical: 1,707′ Highest point: 11,307' above sea level Skiable acres: 650

W

hile skiing

deserved rep as one of the best

cold, fluffy

locales to learn to turn in the

snow

state. Diehard snow sliders are

against a stunning red

devoted to Brian Head as well,

rock desert backdrop

regularly making the short trip

may seem improbable

from Las Vegas or St. George

at best, that’s exactly

to play on the resort’s ample

what you’ll find at

rolling intermediate cruisers,

Utah’s southernmost ski

more challenging bump runs

and snowboard resort, Brian

and spectacular backcountry

Head. But unreal scenery and

skiing off of Brian Head

martini-dry powder snow is

Peak. And with Cedar Breaks

just the beginning.

National Monument closeby,

Brian Head’s excellent ski and snowboard school staff have taken advantage of the

D Mike Saemisch

Brian Head Resort

1

it’s easy to make a visit there part of your stay.

If you’re looking to

healthy dollop of authentic

New for 2019–20

hospitality, plenty of elbow

The new high-speed Navajo

seemingly endless easy-going

experience a truly unique and

room and a welcome lack of

Express quad chairlift has

groomers on Navajo Mountain

affordable ski or snowboard

pretension, then Brian Head is

replaced the fixed-grip triple

to earn Brian Head a well-

getaway, served up with a

the place.

chair lift on Navajo Mountain.

1 Lodging is available at the Brian Head Resort base or nearby in Brian Head town. 2 The Kansas City–style pork ribs are a legendary Saturday night tradition at the Last Chair Saloon. 3 Brian Head is located within southern Utah’s picturesque Markagunt Plateau. 4 Learning from the pros at Brian Head.

Southern (Utah) Hospitality As the weekend approaches at Brian Head, both the smoker and locals get stoked for what’s become a much-anticipated weekly event: barbecue Saturday nights at Brian Head’s Last Chair Saloon.

Choose from overloaded platters of Kansas City–style pork ribs, slow-smoked tri tip and much more. Don’t forget to order a pint of

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cold beer to wash it all down and to wear your dancing shoes—the Last Chair books bands every Saturday night as well.

Two for One While, of course, the skiing at Brian Head is the number one reason you need to visit there, you should certainly take some time to venture into nearby Cedar Breaks National Monument (visitcedarcity.com), located just three miles from the town of Brian Head.

Snowmobiling, night sky viewing and snowshoeing are just a few of the activities available in this amazing landscape.

Up, Up & Away A big reason for all the snow Brian Head gets every year is its elevation. In fact, at 9,700 feet above sea level, not only is the town of

4

Brian Head (the resort’s de facto base village) the highest town in Utah, the post office there is one of the highest in the U.S.

DISTANCE FROM CEDAR CITY AIRPORT: 32 MILES, FROM LAS VEGAS: 200 MILES, FROM SLC: 245 MILES

74 skiutah.com

(435) 677-2035 BRIANHEAD.COM

D Adam Clark 1

Sundance Mountain Resort I

n 1969, actor and

trails; 5,000 acres of protected

be more than enough. But at

book signings with

environmentalist Robert

wilderness at the base of

Sundance, where the resort’s

nationally renowned

Redford purchased a

Average annual snowfall: 300"

the majestic, 12,000-foot

mission includes providing

writers and concerts

one-chairlift, one-rope-tow

Timpanogos Peak; two award-

“transformational experiences,”

with emerging Nashville

ski area at the top of Utah’s

winning restaurants; one of the

you’ll find much more.

singer/songwriters as

Provo Canyon then known as

most charming après-ski bars

Timp Haven. Today, in addition

you’ll find just about anywhere;

Art Studio range from journal

Cafe Concert Series.

to 42 ski and snowboard

a series of elegant cabins

making to silversmithing.

There’s so much to

runs, Redford’s rustically

to house overnight guests;

There guests can also watch

experience at Sundance,

refined Sundance Mountain

and an intimate spa. For any

resident glass blowers at work.

in fact, that one could argue

Resort spans 25 kilometers

other bespoke-level winter

Arts-focused events include

that skiing and snowboarding

of groomed Nordic skiing

retreat, all of the above would

Author Series’ readings and

are mere icing on the cake.

Classes at Sundance’s on-site

part of the Bluebird

Vertical: 2,150' Highest point: 8,250' above sea level Skiable acres: 450

1 Sundance’s 450 acres of ski slopes are surrounded by thousands more that are protected by a conservation easement. 2 Setting the stage for decompression at the Owl Bar. 3 Daily yoga sessions are included with your stay. 4 Preparing for take-off on the Sundance ZipTour.

Daily Dose of Zen Get your head in the right place for a day on the mountain with a morning meditation or yoga session. Or maybe you’d like to work out the kinks after a day of schussing? Sundance has you covered with afternoon restorative yoga as well. Both meditation and yoga classes are open to the public and are a complimentary perk for

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lodging guests.

Cocktail Hour of Fairytales Sundance’s Owl Bar is well known for its actual bar, which was moved there from a watering hole in Thermopolis, Wyoming, frequented by the actual Hole in the Wall Gang. But, bar withstanding, beyond cozy is the best way to describe this almost movieset-like enclave of rough-hewn log walls, wood-burning river rock fireplaces, antique photos and handmade wooden furniture.

Zippety Do! Yes, Sundance is the place in Utah to go to reflect, rejuvenate and get in touch with nature. But when you’re ready for a one-of-a-kind thrill, book yourself a ride on the Sundance ZipTour, which boasts more than 2,100 feet of vertical drop—the most of any zip line tour

4

in the United States.

DISTANCE FROM SLC AIRPORT: 55 MILES

(801) 225-4107 SUNDANCERESORT.COM

the greatest snow on earth

75

Average annual snowfall: 500" Vertical: 2,205' Highest point: 9,422' above sea level Skiable acres: 8,464*

T

o say Powder

Powder Mountain’s Horizon

Mountain has a

Neighborhood—a cluster of

lot going for it is

modern minimalist cabins

a vast understatement.

with unobstructed views of

It scores high on all the

the Eden Valley and the Great

typical measurements

Salt Lake—represent a preview

of the best mountain

of what the base village there

resorts: it’s close (20

will eventually look and feel

miles) to a metro area,

like, which has been described

Ogden, a city that has in

as a next-generation alpine

recent years taken huge leaps

town. Other features to come

forward in its culinary, nightlife

include a vehicle-free Main

and cultural offerings. It gets

Street lined with farm-to-table

tons of snow—500 inches per

restaurants, pop-up boutiques

year, on average. It’s big: 3,000

and co-working spaces. But

acres of lift-served terrain*

where Pow Mow, as the locals

plus 5,000 more accessed

call it, goes above and beyond

via snowcat and hiking. And

is, even in the midst of a buzzy

its owners are making huge

transformation, efforts are

investments in infrastructure.

being made to preserve its

Last year’s completion of

authentic, low-key vibe.

D Chris Pearson

Powder Mountain

1

1 Limiting season-pass and day-pass sales keeps Powder Mountain’s slopes deliciously uncrowded. 2 Live music at the Powder Keg. 3 The lifts at Powder Mountain access 3,000 acres while the snowcats deliver you to 5,000 more.

Elbow Room Aplenty Season-pass sales at Powder Mountain are capped at 3,000 annually, and only 1,500 day passes are sold per day, meaning that, when you consider Powder Mountain’s 8,000-plus acres, each skier or rider there has about three acres each. Purchase day tickets in advance to ensure your estate-sized spot on the mountain.

Brews & Tunes

2

The heart of the après-ski scene at Powder Mountain is the Powder Keg, where the popcorn is always free, located inside the Timberline Lodge. Look to the chalkboard menu for a rotating selection of Utah beers, tasty sandwiches, ramen and burgers. Ever shake your groove thing in ski boots? The Powder Keg is your chance, where live bands play five days a week.

The Wild White Yonder Sure, Powder Mountain’s 3,000 lift-served acres may be plenty for most. If you’re looking for a little more—and almost guaranteed fresh tracks—upgrade your day pass (just $20) for a single snowcat ride into Powder Mountain’s Raintree and Lightning Ridge areas.

Choose from one of the three cats depending on the level of skiing or riding you’re after.

DISTANCE FROM SLC AIRPORT: 55 MILES * 8,464 acres of terrain accessible by chairlift, snowcats, shuttles and hiking.

76 skiutah.com

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(801) 745-3772 POWDERMOUNTAIN.COM

Snowbasin

A

1

long with the

Some resorts with

Park City resorts,

lavish base lodges seem

Snowbasin was a

to be making up for

venue for the 2002 Olympic

so-so skiing. Not the

Winter Games, a legacy still

case at Snowbasin.

evident in the international

The expert terrain

flags covering the sides of its

there—both lift-served

cylindrical Mt. Allen Tram. But

and hike-to—is on par

Average annual snowfall: 300"

since then, almost despite its

with other notable

Vertical: 3,000'

easy access, super-efficient lift

challenging resorts like

system and amazing terrain,

Taos and Crested Butte.

Snowbasin has managed to

There’s also plenty for

Highest point: 9,350' above sea level

maintain a slightly off-the-

intermediates to love

radar, best-kept-secret-status.

at Snowbasin, like the

Well, secret or not, what you’ll

long, sweeping cruisers

find at this Ogden-area resort

off the Strawberry Gondola,

is incredible skiing, a super

the seemingly endless options

family-friendly atmosphere

off the Needles Gondola

and 360 degrees of jaw-

and the newly widened and

dropping scenery.

picturesque Mt. Ogden Bowl

Ironically, Snowbasin often

D Chris Pearson

impression when guests visit

1 Snowbasin received measurable snowfall nearly every week of the 2018–19 winter season. 2 Good friends and great views on the deck at the John Paul Lodge. 3 Indulging in a little post-slope entertainment at the Cinnabar.

Skiable acres: 3,000

Road, accessed via the John Paul chairlift.

makes its first double-take

1

Multi-resort Passes Accepted

Other boxes checked by

the base-area Earl’s Lodge

Snowbasin include amazing

bathrooms. Italian marble

dining options, including its

countertops and bathroom

popular Dining Discovery

stalls, brass fixtures and

Series; a nationally recognized

chandeliers—yes, in the

ski and snowboard school;

bathrooms—will make you

terrain parks; and 26 kilometers

feel like you took a wrong

of groomed Nordic skiing trails.

turn and ended up in a Fifth Avenue hotel. The elegant

New for 2019–20

Lunch and Then Some

gestalt continues farther

Vail Resorts’ Epic Passholders

inside the lodge with thick

now get seven days of skiing

Sure, sweet views and ski resorts go together like peanut butter

carpets, oversized upholstered

at Snowbasin. Also, the Earl’s

and jelly, but there’s views and then there’s the view from the deck

furniture, stately stone

Lodge servery has been

at Snowbasin’s John Paul Lodge. There, while munching your own

fireplaces and views of the

revamped, there’s a new

personal pizza baked in a hardwood-fired oven, you can soak in the

mountain through enormous

family-friendly gladed area off

sweeping vistas of the Ogden Valley, Mount Ogden and Morgan.

floor-to-ceiling windows.

Wildcat Express and NASTAR

First Tracks, Guaranteed Ever wonder what it would be like to ski one of those private, country club–style resorts? Wonder no more. With a private all-day

And then there’s the skiing.

ski racing has returned.

2

3

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or private morning ski or snowboard lesson, Snowbasin guests can request to bring along up to four friends for early access to the mountain from 8 to 9 a.m., a whole hour before the general public is allowed on the mountain.

Rock, Roll & Relax After a day exploring Snowbasin, there’s nothing like gliding into the elegant Cinnabar at Earl’s Lodge for a little post-slope decompression. Settle into one of the bar’s wingback chairs as you sip a Utah microbrew, glass of wine or cocktail and listen to free live music. And don’t worry about your kids being bored. While you relax, they can make laps just outside on the Littlecat Express lift.

DISTANCE FROM SLC AIRPORT: 45 MILES

(888) 437-5488 SNOWBASIN.COM

the greatest snow on earth

77

Beaver Mountain Multi-resort Passes Accepted

Vertical: 1,700' Highest point: 8,800' above sea level Skiable acres: 828

I

t’s hard to pinpoint

and snowboarding in the state.

It all started when Harold

why people have such wistful

Seeholzer and his wife, Luella,

nostalgia for old-school

launched Beaver Mountain

ski resorts like Beaver

in 1939. Their son, Ted, took

Mountain. Maybe

over as general manager just

it’s the thin crowds,

before his father died in 1968.

affordable lift tickets

And then when Ted passed

or lack of high-end

away in 2013, his wife Marge

distractions that make time

and their children, Travis

spent on the snow play second

and Kristy Seeholzer and

fiddle. Or maybe it’s that

Annette (Seeholzer) and Jeff

increasingly rare personalized,

West, carried on managing

mom-and-pop touch

the resort. Last winter, the

beginning when you purchase

Seeholzers celebrated Beaver

your lift ticket. Well, at “the

Mountain’s 80th year of

Beav”—as it is affectionately

operation, making it the

known by regulars—you’ll

longest continuously family-

find all that and, thanks to

run ski resort in the U.S. “What

the mountain’s northeastern

our guests like about this place

exposure and well maintained

is that they are immediately

slopes, some of the best skiing

treated like family,” Marge says.

D Jay Dash

Average annual snowfall: 400"

1

Carving up the corduroy on one of Beaver Mountain’s buttery groomers.

Stay in Beaver Mountain’s slopeside yurt for breakfast with the lifties followed by fresh tracks. 3 Marge Seeholzer’s smiling face is a friendly constant at the ticket window. 4 Try the Big Beav Double Bypass burger, if you dare.

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Wickets and Smiles Though General Manager is Marge Seeholzer’s official title at Beaver Mountain, each day of the winter season, from 7 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., you can find her at the post she first reported to when her late husband, Ted, became the Beav’s general manager—and first full-time employee—in 1970: selling tickets, answering questions and handing out smiles and an occasional hug at the resort’s ticket office window. “Only the groomers beat me here,” Marge says.

2

Cozy Slopeside Camping Have breakfast with the lifties and get first tracks at the Beav with a stay in the resort’s slopeside yurt. While the experience is definitely rustic, you can stoke your sense of adventure with a night in Beaver Mountain’s wood stove–heated Mongolian-style tent, located within steps of the “cook shack,” restrooms and showers.

D Raelene Davis

Burger Bliss Though Beaver Mountain’s dining options do not include highfalutin menu items like charcuterie, NiÇoise salads or even beer, what you will find there is this: the Big Beav Double Bypass Burger, a legendary sandwich stacked with two patties, cheese, bacon, barbecue sauce and French fries that’s as big as your head.

DISTANCE FROM SLC AIRPORT: 114 MILES

78 skiutah.com

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(435) 946-3610

SKITHEBEAV.COM

1

1

Eagle Point Average annual snowfall: 350" Vertical: 1,500' Highest point: 10,600' above sea level Skiable acres: 650

I

Woodward Park City

f you’re looking

groomers and a well-

for a more

thought-out terrain park to

affordable

steeps and powder-filled

and less crowded

tree glades for the more

alternative to a

adventurous. Bonus: kids

C

onveniently

include trampolines,

located between

foam pits, climbing,

Park City and Salt

parkour/ninja, a

Outdoor area: 61 acres

Lake City, just two miles

spring tumbling

Indoor area: 70,000 sf

east of Parley’s Summit off

floor and patented

Vertical: 349' Highest point: 6,812' above sea level

mega-resort in an

under six ski and ride free.

of Interstate 80 (at the site

training tools such

über-picturesque,

Additional lodging is in the

of the former Gorgoza Park)

as the Woodward

off-the-beaten-path

works, but with its current

is the brand new Woodward

ParkBoard™ and

location, then Eagle Point

capacity to sleep about 200

Park City, a world-class

Woodward ParkSkis™.

Resort is your place. Tucked

guests per night on site,

action-sports park created

high into southern Utah’s

on most evenings the vibe

to inspire and empower the

break, visitors can head into

rugged Tushar Mountain

at the intimate base area

next generation of action

the on-site espresso bar and

Range, this charming

more closely resembles a

athletes, 365 days and

cafeteria-style restaurant

resort’s 40-plus runs span

fun house party than your

nights a year.

with a liquor license. In

from beginner-friendly

typical hotel.

Scheduled to open in

When it’s time to take a

the summer, Woodward’s

November 2019, wintertime

outdoor areas will transform

Resort Takeover

outdoor activities offered

into a lift-served BMX

at Woodward’s first

dirt park, downhill and

For a blow-their-socks-off family reunion, wedding or business retreat,

location in Utah (other

slopestyle mountain biking

look no further than Eagle Point’s As You Wish program. After the hol-

Woodward facilities operate

park, paved and concrete

idays, the resort is open to the public Friday to Monday only, reserving

in Pennsylvania, Colorado,

paths for all-wheeled action

Tuesday–Thursday for private groups. The entire place is yours (rates

California and Mexico)

sports and an outdoor

start at $10,000) including lift tickets and gear rental for up to 200.

span 10 lanes of surface

parkour park. Choose from

Powder Fridays

lift-served snow tubing—

drop-in sessions or all-

including Utah’s longest

access day passes; expert

Because the lifts are open to the public on weekends only from January

tubing run at 1,250 feet—

coaching is also available

on, TGIF takes on a whole new meaning. With limited skiers to track out

and chairlift-serviced skiing

in all activities. Staying in

the midweek storms, conditions can be truly epic come Friday.

and snowboarding on

Utah for awhile? Check

Don’t Forget Your Swimsuit

groomed runs and in terrain

out Woodward’s exciting

parks. Indoor activities,

menu of multiday camps

Take an après-ski dip in the Hot Tub Garden at Canyonside Lodge.

housed in Woodward Park

and clinics. Woodward also

There, you can fully embrace this resort’s laid-back vibe in one of three

City’s new 70,000-square-

hosts birthday parties and

hot tubs, situated conveniently just outside the bar.

foot base camp facility, will

special events.

1 Proof that Powder Fridays rock. 2 The Hot Tub Garden at Canyonside Lodge awaits. 3 The Tushar Mountains’ Mt. Holly (11,999 feet) towers over Eagle Point.

1 Woodward Park City’s 61-acre action sports–focused campus. 2 The facility includes terrain parks for all levels. 3 A glimpse at Woodward’s indoor activities.

2

3

DISTANCE FROM SLC/LAS AIRPORT: 240 MILES (435) 438-3700 EAGLEPOINTRESORT.COM

2 DISTANCE FROM SLC AIRPORT: 27 MILES

3 (435) 658-2648 WOODWARDPARKCITY.COM

the greatest snow on earth

79

1

Nordic Valley Average annual snowfall: 300" Vertical: 1,000' Highest point: 6,400' above sea level Skiable acres: 120

W

hile

carpet access 22 runs. A

many ski

double chair takes skiers up

resorts

to much of the intermediate

1

3

Cherry Peak H idden away in

a refreshingly

the sweeping

nonintimidating

Average annual snowfall: 322"

Cache Valley,

and affordable

Vertical: 1,221'

just 20 minutes north of

destination for

the mountain as well as to

Logan and 75 minutes from

families and those

vibe, few pull it off

the terrain park, but Nordic

Ogden, is the charming

just getting into the

Highest point: 7,050' above sea level

as authentically as

Valley’s strong suit is its

Cherry Peak Resort. Owner

sport. But even if you

Nordic Valley. There,

tout an intimate,

and advanced terrain on

old-school kind of

Skiable acres: 200

beginner runs and stellar

John Chadwick began

already know how to

a bucolic, red-roofed barn

ski and snowboard school.

building this labor of love 18

ski or ride, making the quick

houses all base-area services,

An annual not-to-be-missed

years ago on property that

trip to Cherry Peak is well

from restrooms and lift

event is its New Year’s

had been in his family for

worth it. Other ways to play

ticket sales to equipment

Eve celebration, featuring

generations. This intimate

in the snow there include

rentals and the Grill—where

Utah’s “biggest New Year’s

mountain, with just one

sliding down the five-lane

you can still get a burger for

fireworks show” and followed

snug, log cabin–style base

tubing hill and taking part

under $10. On mountain,

by a family friendly party

lodge, three chairlifts

in Cherry Peak’s packed

three lifts and a magic

that goes until midnight.

and a magic carpet, is

events schedule.

Light It Up

On the Dark Side

While many resorts light a handful of runs, usually limited to beginner

All of Cherry Peak’s 200 acres—including terrain off the Summit lift

and intermediate slopes, only at Nordic Valley can you ski 100 percent of

and the terrain park—are lit and open for night skiing seven days a

the resort—all 22 runs—until 8 p.m., Monday through Saturday.

week. Evenings are actually a great time to improve your skiing or

Pocketbook Respite

snowboarding skills. Cherry Peak’s Snowsports school offers expert

As if skiing at Nordic Valley wasn’t affordable enough (holiday-period

in both skiing and snowboarding.

adult lift tickets cost about a third of what you’d pay at one of the

What Happens on the Mountain

instruction for first timers, groups, private lessons and women’s clinics

mega-resorts), for kids age seven and under, lift tickets are free.

Silly Sliding

Yes, with its mellow terrain and affordable lift tickets, Cherry Peak is

Not a skier? No problem! Just spitting distance from Nordic Valley’s lifts

to the kid-at-heart crowd with a packed winter events schedule that

you’ll find Wasatch Parc Tubing area (wasatchparc.com). There, surface

includes rail jams, concerts, DJ dance parties in the lodge, pond

tows eliminate the walk to the top of the hill. At the top, hop on your

skimming, slalom ski races and more. Outdoor concerts, the redneck

tube into one of three lanes and just try to keep from giggling.

waterslide, horseback riding and more are available in summer.

1 Nordic Valley’s base-area barn reflects the area’s agricultural vibe. 2 Taking a break on the sun-washed patio. 3 Nordic Valley’s neighbor, Wasatch Parc Tubing.

1 Cherry Peak’s charming log cabin base lodge. 2 Getting fresh tracks under the lights. 3 Skiing is not required at Cherry Peak, which also offers snow tubing.

2

a family favorite. But Cherry Peak also makes a huge effort to appeal

3 DISTANCE FROM SLC AIRPORT: 51 MILES

80 skiutah.com

(801) 745-3511

2 NORDICVALLEY.COM

DISTANCE FROM SLC AIRPORT: 99 MILES

3 (435) 200-5050

SKICHERRYPEAK.COM

How to

t e k c i T r u o Y t e G to The ski pass world is ever-changing. Passes are now valid not only in multiple states but various countries, too. Take a look at how you can make the most of your multi-resort passes in Utah and beyond.

Epic

epicpass.com UTAH DESTINATIONS: Park City Mountain Snowbasin FACTS: 2 Utah Resorts, 8 countries, 86 total ski resorts* New: Vail Resorts is offering the Epic Day pass where you can choose one to seven flexible days for up to 50 percent off.

Mountain Collective

mountaincollective.com UTAH DESTINATIONS: Alta Ski Area Snowbird FACTS: 2 Utah Resorts, 6 countries, 18 total ski resorts*

Ikon

ikonpass.com UTAH DESTINATIONS: Alta Ski Area Brighton Resort Deer Valley Resort Snowbird Solitude Mountain Resort FACTS: 5 Utah Resorts, 6 countries, 40 total destinations*

Ski City Super Pass skicity.com The Ski City Super Pass is your discounted lift ticket to Salt Lake’s four world-class resorts; Alta, Brighton, Snowbird and Solitude.

Customize your pass for three to 10 days.

The more days you buy, the more discounted it becomes. *Price starts at $300 and increases as you purchase more days.

Ride Yeti Pass

skiutah.com/yetipass

The Ski Utah Yeti Pass is perfect for those seeking to get a taste of Utah skiing across the state. For $649, the passholder receives a single day ticket to each of Utah’s 15 resorts, valid during the 2019/20 season.

5th and 6th Grade Passport skiutah.com/passport

Have a 5th or 6th grader?

If so, you’ve hit the jackpot.

With the Ski Utah 5th and 6th Grade Passport—which is just $45—fifth graders can ski or ride three times at each of Utah’s 15 resorts; sixth graders get one day at each.

Plus, Passport holders get access to exclusive deals and discounts from Utah resorts and ski and snowboard shops. Simply apply online at skiutah.com/passport before you arrive in Utah to get the Passport. And proceed with the “I just saved some big bucks” happy dance!

Indy Pass D Chris Pearson

indyskipass.com

UTAH DESTINATIONS: Beaver Mountain

* At time of press

FACTS: 1 Utah Resort, 20 U.S. states, 35 total ski resorts*

the greatest snow on earth

81

Utah Resorts Sundance

Midway

HEBER

PARK CITY

Alta

Brighton

Deer Valley

Sundance

Snowbird

Solitude Park City Mountain

Kimball Junction

Woodward Park City INTERSTATE

80

INTERSTATE

80

Snowbasin INTERSTATE

84

Huntsville

Ogden Valley Eden

Powder Mountain

Beaver Mountain

Nordic Valley

Brigham City INTERSTATE

4 skiutah.com | 2015–16 82 3 skiutah.com

Cherry Peak

LOGAN

15

Welcome to Utah

Brian Head

10

CEDAR CITY

Eagle Point INTERSTATE

15

PROVO

Yearly average number of sunny days in Park City. (bestplaces.net)

Number of resorts you can ski in one day; learn more at skiutah.com/tour.

Number of local breweries and distilleries in Utah, and counting.

Yearly average number of inches of snowfall at Alta Ski Area.

Yearly average number of Utah Powder Days.

(12"+ in 24 hours)

6

BEAVER

547

Utah Lake

229

Resorts less than an hour from SLC International Airport.

54 19

Adventure Outside the Lines Ski up to six resorts in one day while getting a taste of what lies outside the rope line

Sandy

INTERSTATE

Have you ever looked wistfully beyond a ski resort boundary, wondering what it would be like to ski the backcountry?

Wonder no more. The Ski Utah Interconnect Tour gives advanced to expert skiers (age 16 and older) the opportunity to experience the magnificent beauty and incredible backcountry terrain of the Wasatch Mountain Range.

Tours operate seven days a week, weather and conditions permitting.

Participants will ski resort runs and the backcountry terrain between and through as many as six resorts in one day. Every tour is led by two guides trained in snow safety and backcountry etiquette. Cost is $430 per person, with lunch, transportation and finisher’s pin included. For details and to book, visit skiutah.com/interconnect.

SALT LAKE CITY INTERSTATE

Davis County County

Salt Lake City International Airport Great Salt Lake

INCHES

Bountiful

v

80

OGDEN

S

E N

1965–2019 ANNUAL SNOWFALL (Alta Ski Area)

750 700 650 600 550 500 450 400 350 300 250 200 150 100 50 0

60FOOT-TALL POWER LINE TOWER

20FOOT-TALL GIRAFFE

6FOOTTALL PERSON

1965 1966 1967 1968 1969 1970 1971 1972 1973 1974 1975 1976 1977 1978 1979 1980 1981 1982 1983 1984 1985 1986 1987 1988 1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019

215

the greatest snow on earth

83

LODGE LIVING

A sneak peek at some of the season’s hottest new gear at one of Utah’s newest ski-in/ski-out lodges. photos by Chris Pearson styling by Hailey Klotz

A

sk any dedicated skier or snowboarder and they’re sure to tell you: sleeping within gliding distance of the slopes is the winter vacation gold standard. And it’s no wonder. Ski-in/skiout lodging ensures that your vacation itinerary falls into a blissful daily pattern of wake, click in, ride, glide, après and repeat.

Last winter, we indulged our closeto-the-slopes fantasies at the Snowpine Lodge, a newly renovated luxury-level boutique hotel tucked into Utah's storied Little Cottonwood Canyon. In addition to reveling in the undeniable pleasures of a mountainside stay, we also got to try out the latest 2019-20 winter season apparel and ski gear from Eider, Hot Chillys, Hestra, Smith and Rossignol. Enjoy!

EIDER SPENCER PANT IN GHOST ($549)

84 skiutah.com

1

2

3

4

5

7

6

1. Smith Quantum helmet in matte white ($300) 2. Smith I/O Mag S goggle in metallic ink ($240) 3. Eider Squaw Valley jacket in red ($530) 4. Hestra Leather Fall Line glove ($160) 5. Linda Richards hat ($85) 6. Hot Chillys Flocked Heather zip-t in black heather dots ($55) 7. Hot Chillys Micro-Elite

Chamois print zip-t in horizon stripe ($90) 8. Smith Prospect Jr. helmet in matte purple ($130) 9. Smith Grom goggle in pink ($90) 10. Smith Code helmet in matte mystic green ($200) 11. Smith I/O Mag XL goggle in mystic green ($240) 12. Rossignol Experience 94 skis ($800)

10

8

11 9

12

the greatest snow on earth

85

The Snowpine Lodge (pictured left, circa mid-1930s) is Alta’s lone remaining building with roots in Little Cottonwood Canyon's silver mining days. Originally constructed as part of the Bay City Mine, the building was converted for use as a general store and post office in the 1870s. The store operated until the 1929 stock market crash when the owner closed up shop and moved to California. In 1935, as lift-

served skiing began to take hold in Utah, the Civilian Conservation Core renovated the building to house overnight guests.

Following completion of an extensive renovation in early 2019, the Snowpine’s granite foundation is all that remains of the original structure, a base that now supports 78 guest rooms, 19 dorm-style beds, Swen’s restaurant, the Gulch Pub, the Stillwell Spa and a heated outdoor pool and hot tubs.

7

1

3 5

2

6

4 8

9

86 skiutah.com

13 14 13 12

14 11

16

15

17 10

1. Smith Quantum helmet in matte deep forest ($300) 2. Smith I/O Mag XL goggle in mystic green ($240) 3. Rossignol Soul 7 skis ($850) 4. Eider Camber jacket in wild lime ($460) 5. Smith Quantum helmet in matte white ($300) 6. Smith I/O Mag goggles in white ($240) 7. Rossignol Experience 88 W skis ($750) 8. Eider Danaide jacket in red ($460) 9. Eider Edge print pant in white camo ($190) 10. Hot Chillys Originals II print crewneck in harmony ($45)

18

11. Hot Chillys Mid-Volume Sock in Santa baby ($20) 12. Rossignol Alltrack Elite 120 ($750) 13. Rossignol Alltrack Pro 130 ($850) 14. Eider Ridge II beanie in dusk blue ($30) 15. Eider Double M Fleece jacket in red ($200) 16.

Eider Arias Fleece Hoodie in white ($160) 17. Hot Chillys Micro-Elite Chamois print legging in bw rose ($75) 18. Eider Venosc hoodie in cameo rose print ($240) 19. Eider Venosc hoodie in black camo print ($280)

SOREL JOAN OF ARCTIC SHEARLING BOOTS IN COLLEGIATE NAVY ($220)

EIDER SPENCER PANT IN GHOST ($549)

19

the greatest snow on earth

87

8

5 1

9

3

6

13

2

7 14

3

4

2 10 11

12 5

1. Smith Vantage helmet in matte charcoal ($260) 2. Smith Skyline XL goggle in klein blue ($190) 3. Eider M jacket in dusk blue ($650) 4. Hestra Fall Line Leather glove ($160) 5. Smith Mirage helmet in matte dusty lilac ($130) 6. Smith Skyline goggle in white ($190) 7. Eider Monterosa fur jacket in purple storm ($670) 8. Smith Level helmet in matte rise ($200) 9. Smith Skyline XL goggle in repeat ($190) 10. Smith Liberty helmet in matte smoky blue ($200) 11. Smith I/O Mag S goggle in smoky blue flood ($240) 12. Eider The Rocks print jacket in dark green camo ($330) 13. Ski Utah buff ($20)

14. Eider Milkrun jacket in dark night/true blood ($700) 15. Hot Chillys MicroElite chamois zip-t in navy ($80) 16. Hot Chillys Sweater Knit hoodie jacket in sideline ($150) 17. Hot Chillys Micro-Elite Chamois tights in cranberry ($65) 18. Hot Chillys Fiesta Socks in various prints ($22) 19. Linda Richards hat ($85) 20. Hot Chillys Micro-Elite Chamois crewneck in white ($65) 21. Hot Chillys Micro-Elite Chamois print legging in bw rose ($75) 22. Hot Chillys low-volume socks ($22) 23. Hot Chillys Micro-Elite Chamois zip-t in navy ($80) 24. Hot Chillys Micro-Elite Chamois print legging in icy peaks ($75)

15

SOREL JOAN OF ARCTIC SHEARLING BOOTS IN COLLEGIATE NAVY ($220)

EIDER SPENCER PANT IN GHOST ($549)

88 skiutah.com

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the greatest snow on earth

89

SUMMER

RETURNING FOR THE DIRT Fifteen two-wheel-fueled reasons to visit Utah in the summer

by Sean Zimmerman-Wall

U

tah’s prolific

is mountain biking. You may

cornucopia of singletrack where

Wasatch Mountain resorts offer

snowfall is reason

already be familiar with the well-

pedalers revel in trails catering to

similarly stellar mountain biking

enough to plan a

known trail networks in Utah’s

all levels of riders. Park City was

trail systems. Following are 15

ski or snowboard

southern quadrant found in

ranked as the world’s first-ever

not-to-be-missed rides, from the

trip here during the winter. But

locales like Moab and St. George.

Gold-Level Ride Center by the

newbie appropriate to routes sure

another equally fulfilling draw

But within the state’s northern

International Mountain Biking

to appeal to the seasoned off-

that awaits once the snow melts

half is a world-renowned

Association. But almost all the

road connoisseur. Happy trails!

90 40 skiutah.com

D Rocko Menzyk

The Round Valley Trail System in Park City offers over 30 miles of multiuse trails for all skill levels.

You’ll find doubletrack and flowy singletrack with beautiful views.

the greatest snow on earth

91

Easy-Does-It/ Intermediate Rides One of the Salt Lake Valley’s most

on Rusty Shovel sets you up for a

well-planned trail complexes is

scenic counter-clockwise loop back

Corner Canyon (20 miles south

to the car.

The easy access of the Wheeler

cornercanyonstrails.com). Begin

Creek Trail (nine miles east of

climbing from the Draper

Ogden along Hwy 39 at the Art Nord

Equestrian Center trailhead for just

Trailhead, utahmountainbiking.

over a mile to the main junctions

com/trails/wheeler) and its

of Ann’s, Bonneville Shoreline and

straightforward navigation make it

Canyon Hollow. Cruise up Canyon

a classic warm up for some of the

Hollow to Ghost Falls for a fast and

other trails in the area. Wind up

flowy descent through Gambel oak

through the Middle Fork and pedal

groves along burbling creeks.

through aspen glades overlooked

Get an up-close glimpse at

by Snowbasin Resort’s peaks. Head

one of Utah’s most defining

to the north and finish with a

landmarks—the Great Salt Lake—

descent on the East Fork.

while pedaling the trails at the White Rock Loop at Antelope Island State Park (59 miles north of SLC via Interstate 15, stateparks.utah. gov). From the island’s White Rocks Bay Campground, a few miles of climbing brings you to a ridge overlooking the city, the Great Salt Lake and the towering peaks of the Wasatch Range. Be sure to keep an eye out for buffalo along the way, which roam the island freely.

With its mostly southern exposure, the Park City-area’s 25-miles-plus Glenwild trail system is typically ready to ride early in the spring. From the Bad Apple Trailhead (2740 Rasmussen Rd, Kimball Junction, basinrecreation. org/trail/glenwild), ascend the 24/7 Trail toward the famed Flying Dog Loop, or practice your handling skills in Bob’s Basin. Once you’re warmed up, climb toward the Glenwild Loop and drop into wellgroomed singletrack that brings you back around to the trailhead.

Miles of singletrack bisect Park City’s rolling Round Valley Trail System (300 Gillmor Way, mountaintrails.org/pc-trail-system/ round-valley), which is also an offleash dog area. For a casual start, ride up Rambler to Matt’s Flat. Or if you want to get your cardio up in a hurry, take on the short but punchy climbs like Nowhere Elks and Ramble On. A fast descent

92 skiutah.com

2

4

3 1 Wheeler Creek Trail winds over the creek and through thick forest—perfect for a hot day. 2 Glenwild offers trails for every skill level. 3 Change the mountain scenery for a desert oasis at Antelope Island.

4 This trail will have you saying wow. Literally. The W.O.W. trail features incredible vistas, berms, climbs and singletrack for just over nine miles. 5 Hop on a lift at Park City Mountain for quicker access to the best terrain. 6 Four flow trails at Deer Valley have beginner to advanced riders begging for more.

D Monique Beeley

of SLC, 1600 Highland Dr, Draper,

1

D Monique Beeley

SUMMER

Sticking to the slopes of Snowbasin

Deer Valley’s Silver Lake Lodge, this

Mountain Resort (20 miles from

21-mile trail forms the backbone

Ogden, utahmountainbiking.com/

of the Park City network and is

trails/sardine), the Sardine Peak

widely used to access other classics

Trail features perfectly placed

throughout the Park City area and

switchbacks for a medium-paced

beyond.

ascent to a saddle overlooking

The Coyote Canyons Trail, a

D Rocko Menzyk

Advanced-Level Pedals

Pineview Reservoir to the north

desert-like loop providing Ansel

and Mt. Ogden to the south. Take

Adams-quality views of the

a brief break and relish the views

Wasatch Back, is a great shoulder-

before strapping in for a fast, white-

season training ride. Starting at

knuckler descent.

Heber City’s Utah Valley University-

southsummitrails.org) wander over

Wasatch Campus (17 miles from Park

sagebrush-covered hillsides and

at Eagle Point Resort (19 miles

Mountain Bicycling Association

City, 3111 College Way, gohebervalley.

through aspen and pine stand,

from Beaver, 1040 N. Elk Meadows

Epic Ride, Park City’s Mid-

com/CoyoteCanyon), ascend a short

offering reprieve from the summer

Dr, eaglepointresort.com) provides

Mountain Trail (basinrecreation.

way to the Riverview trail and head

sun. Loops and descents peel off

a welcome escape from

org/trail/mid-mountain) delivers

north to Coyote Trail and climb to

the main climb at regular intervals

summertime heat and crowds.

leg-burning climbs and pulse-

the ridge crest before descending.

to make for a choose-your-own

A highlight of this little-known

adventure type of experience.

trail system is the Monarch Loop,

Listed as an International

quickening descents through

The trails at the High Star

some of Park City’s most

Ranch (17 miles east of Park City

recognized terrain. Starting from

in Kamas, 976 N. State Rd 32,

5

Tucked off the beaten path in southern Utah’s spectacular

Tushar Mountains, the singletrack

which winds through huge conifers and alpine wildflower meadows.

Attention Experts! This Dirt’s For You The quintessential Wasatch Crest

an instant classic. The fun begins

rollercoaster ride punctuated

Trail (41.5 miles from SLC through Big

from the top of Bald Mountain and

by long straightaways to regain

Cottonwood Canyon to Guardsman

takes cyclists through perfectly

your composure.

Pass, parkcitymountainbike.com/

manicured tabletops and berms.

wasatch-crest-trail) is a test of all

Each section has its own character

the abilities an expert rider must

and a short lift ride back to the top

City, brianhead.com), mountain

possess. Forested singletrack leads

allows you to hang ten all day long.

bikers will find the lift-accessed

to the aptly named “Puke Hill”

In the quaint Wasatch Back

Traveling south to Brian Head Resort (32 miles from Cedar

Timberline Trail to be quite a

climb. After you reach this 10,000'

hamlet of Midway is a hidden gem

challenge. The views of Cedar

high point, you have commanding

that is quickly becoming a fan

Breaks National Monument are

views in every direction as you work

favorite: Wasatch Mountain State

matched only by a formidable

your way toward the crux of the

Park’s Wasatch Over Wasatch

descent over several miles of

trail, known as The Spine. From here

(WOW) Trail (26 miles from Park City

demanding terrain. A quick chairlift

it’s a collection of worthy descents

on State Rd 222, utahmountainbiking.

ride on Giant Steps Express back

into Big Cottonwood Canyon, Mill

com/trails/wow). There aspen forest

to the top allows you to hone your

Creek Canyon or Park City.

gives way to open berms for a

skills again at will.

Snowbird’s iconic Tram allows for a 3,000-foot descent through the varied terrain the resort is known

6

for along the Big Mountain Trail (27 miles from SLC through Little Cottonwood Canyon, snowbird.com).

Wide open rock-strewn slopes precipitate downward to a lush pine forest. Interspersed throughout the trail are huge berms and rollers that

D Adam Barker/UOT

make the technical ride playful.

From the moment it was completed in 2015, Deer Valley Resort’s Tidal Wave Trail (Park City, accessed via the Silver Lake Express chairlift, deervalley.com) became

the greatest snow on earth

93

DEFINING THE STANDARDS OF REAL ESTATE DEVELOPMENT

Where the World Comes Together Sheraton Park City (noun) 1.Chic, urban loft meets classic ski lodge 2.multi-million dollar 2019 renovation 3. trusted, reliable service Park City, UT (noun) A mountain town with distinction, a dash of Aspen, a hint of Vail and frosted with the greatest snow on earth! @ParkCitySheraton

From $189/night

For reservations, call 800.325.3535 or visit www.sheratonparkcity.com

Sheraton Park City 1895 Sidewinder Dr. Park City, UT 84060 T 435 649 2900

@PCSheraton

Š2019 Marriott International, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

All names, marks and logos are the trademarks of Marriott International, Inc., or its affiliates.

94 skiutah.com

@PCSheraton

COMING SOON TO UTAH

Where to Stay/Alta–Snowbird

Snowbird Cliff Lodge

Alta Peruvian Lodge

Alta Lodge

Enjoy ski-in/ski-out convenience and excellent service at The Cliff Lodge. Within walking distance to Snowbird’s pedestrian village, The Cliff Lodge offers comfortable lodging for the whole family. An on-site ski rental/repair shop and complementary ski lockers add to the convenience of the hotel. Recently renovated, the rooftop pool at The Cliff Spa features breathtaking mountain views, radiant-heated decks, gas-fed fire pits and expanded outdoor seating areas.

Relax in our outdoor heated pool and two hot tubs after a spectacular day of skiing.

Three meals per day, masterfully prepared and served in our elegant dining room, are included with our lodging packages. You’ll enjoy the atmosphere of our bar and the convenience of our gift shop, ski rental and repair shop and self-service laundry. End your day by enjoying one of our roaring fires, taking in a movie, or simply planning the next day’s adventure!

"The Ultimate Ski Lodge” – Forbes. Alta Lodge offers a classic ski vacation with chef-prepared meals, a traditional lodge atmosphere and a perfect ski-in/ski-out location. Enjoy après-ski in the Sitzmark bar or a soak in the hot tubs with incredible mountain views. Families love our complimentary Kids’ Club with supervised after-skiing activities. Nightly lodging rates include a full breakfast and a four-course dinner. Experience excellent service, fine dining, comfortable accommodations, and the ease of an authentic Alta ski vacation!

800-232-9542 snowbird.com

800-453-8488 altaperuvian.com

800-707-2582 altalodge.com

REAL. ROOTED. REFINED. Alta’s leading luxury resort and ski club 10420 Little Cottonwood Rd, Alta, UT 84092 reservations@snowpine.com | 801-742-2000 | www.snowpine.com the greatest snow on earth

95

Luxury Rentals/Deer Valley

Montage Deer Valley

The St. Regis Deer Valley

Stein Eriksen Lodge

An authentic yet refined mountain retreat located less than five minutes from Park City’s celebrated Main Street, and just 38 miles from Salt Lake City International Airport, Montage Deer Valley offers unrivaled ski‐in/ski‐out access to one of America's best ski resorts, the largest spa in Utah, five inspired dining options including a pub with its own bowling alley, along with amazing year‐round activities including hiking, mountain biking, golf, outdoor concerts and fly‐fishing.

Stay exquisite. Only 40 minutes from SLC International Airport, The St. Regis Deer Valley offers effortless access to the renowned trails of Deer Valley Resort®, with attentive ski valets to manage your gear so you can enjoy The Greatest Snow on Earth®. Recipient of Wine Spectator’s Best of Award of Excellence, and AAA’s coveted Four-Diamond Award.

From first tracks to nightcaps, The St. Regis Deer Valley will delight skiers and connoisseurs worldwide.

Stein Eriksen Lodge is an authentic European resort nestled in the alpine beauty of Park City, Utah, and surrounded by spectacular views of Deer Valley. Named after Norwegian Olympic gold medalist Stein Eriksen, the Lodge has built its reputation on impeccable service, world-class skiing, and access to outdoor recreation.

At Utah’s only Forbes Five-Star hotel and spa, guests experience the best ski-in/ski-out access, award-winning dining, indulgent spa treatments, and entertaining après, making Stein Eriksen Lodge the premier year-round resort.

888-604-1301 montagedeervalley.com

435-940-5700 marriott.com/slcxr

800-453-1302 steinlodge.com

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Where to Stay/Park City

Hyatt Centric Park City

Park City Peaks Hotel

Hotel Park City

AAA Four-Diamond Resort, ideally located slopeside with a dedicated "Sunrise" chairlift offering true ski-in/ski-out access.

Accommodations include deluxe guest rooms, one- to four-bedroom residences with large living/dining area, and full-size kitchen and fireplace in every room. Enjoy the Escala Provisions Company serving breakfast, lunch, dinner and après-ski with a full-service bar. Stop by Escala marketplace offering specialty coffee, all-day dining and grocery items. Complimentary scheduled winter transportation to historic Main Street.

Park City Peaks Hotel is a welcoming, independently run mountain-modern resort-style hotel. Newly renovated, the 127room hotel offers guests convenient access to all Park City has to offer, plus an array of enjoyable guest amenities including a picturesque indoor/outdoor pool and a wellequipped fitness center. Also located on-site, Versante Hearth + Bar is known for its woodfired pizza and inventive cuisine. Located just 35 minutes from Salt Lake City International Airport.

Hotel Park City invites you to discover where luxury meets the alpine warmth and charm of an old-world ski lodge. The property has proudly been rated a “Top Ski Hotel” by Condé Nast Traveler. Each suite features a fireplace, king-size beds, jetted tubs and a private balcony with views of the ski mountains and heated outdoor pool. Enjoy our full-service spa and two signature restaurants. Hotel Park City is a proud member of the Marriott Autograph Collection.

800-233-1234 parkcity.centric.hyatt.com

800-649-5012 parkcitypeaks.com

435-200-2000 hotelparkcity.com

Waldorf Astoria Park City

Park City Lodging, Inc.

The Lowell

At Waldorf Astoria Park City, discover a thrilling adventure vacation or tranquil retreat with an on-property restaurant and awardwinning spa. Unwind in the comfort of one of 160 unique guest rooms and spacious residences, offering custom-designed furnishings and grand fireplaces. This hotel is located at the largest ski resort in the U.S., Park City Mountain, offering easy access to over 7,300 acres of mountain terrain via the Frostwood Gondola, situated just steps from the hotel.

Park City Lodging has been creating memorable mountain vacations since 1984.

Our unique collection of private homes and condominiums are located just steps from the best skiing, shopping, dining and nightlife.

Our local experts will help you choose the perfect home for your vacation, whether you prefer the action of Main Street, the ambience of Deer Valley Resort®, the convenience of Park City Mountain’s base areas, or a quiet luxury retreat. Call our destination specialists for exclusive deals on lodging.

The Lowell offers a new mountain contemporary ski-in/ski-out boutique condominium experience at the base of Park City Mountain, offering two- and threebedroom condominiums and two fourbedroom penthouse condominiums each over 3,400 sq. ft. Units feature gourmet kitchens with Wolf, Subzero, Asko, wine coolers, and Keurig one-cup coffee machines. Amenities include daily maid service, complimentary high-speed internet access, fitness center, spa, underground parking, and on-site ski and snowboard rental shop and equipment storage.

435-647-5500 waldorfastoriaparkcity.com

888-361-0705 parkcitylodging.com

888-PARK-CITY thelowellparkcity.com

the greatest snow on earth

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Where to Stay/Park City–Sundance

Park City Rental Properties

Identity Properties

Sundance Resort

Planning a vacation to picturesque Park City?

If so, you deserve only the best and Park City Rental Properties is here to provide just that.

Park City Rental Properties is honored to have been voted “Best Vacation Rental Service” 5 years running. We boast some of the most beautiful and well-managed vacation rental properties in Park City/Deer Valley and our customer service is second to none. Please reach out and allow our team to make your vacation memorable, no matter the occasion.

Identity Properties offers a distinctive collection of resort lodging throughout the Park City area. Locally owned and operated for over 39 years, our convenient locations are of the best that Park City has to offer.

Our amenities include on site check-in offices, outdoor heated pools, hot tubs and complimentary Wi-Fi access at most locations.

Whether you're looking for a cozy, intimate inn or a ski-in/ski-out condominium for your next getaway, make Identity Properties your home away from home.

Stay at Sundance Mountain Resort to escape the crowds and experience true rustic elegance! Our private cabins and lodging are situated below the tree line to ensure privacy and idyllic views. Rooms are just a short walk from the ski mountain, Art Studio, Spa, and award-winning restaurants. With options ranging from standard rooms, to suites, or entire homes, Sundance can accommodate any group or family size.

435-571-0024 parkcityvacationrentals.com

800-245-6417 ext 2 pclodge.com

801-225-4107 sundanceresort.com

PA R K C I T Y, U TA H

ADVENTURE. ELEVATED. SAVE 10% WHEN YOU PURCHASE ONLINE!

WINTER BOBSLED EXPERIENCE

U TA H O LY M P I C L E G AC Y.O RG

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Marketplace

Ogden & Layton

roostersbrewingco.com

RATED #1

888-304-7669 WWW.POWDERUTAH.COM

Ski up to SIX resorts in a day on the Ski Utah Interconnect Tour

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Skis/Snowboards Rentals & Demos Apparel Accessories -Tune/Repair

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1825 Three Kings Dr. Park City, Utah SilverStarSkiandSport.com

the greatest snow on earth

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D Rocko Menzyk

skier: Davis Lentz

PARTING SHOT

711 inches of snow

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191 days of skiing

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Snowbird, Utah July 4, 2019

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Skiing on July 4th

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S E E W H AT L I E S

BETWEEN SEASONS

As summer fades into fall, the Utah desert transforms. The temperature drops and people disperse.

You might find yourself on an expansive vista, in the midst of a slot canyon, or in a giant valley— with nothing but the gentle sounds of open space around you.

V I S I T U TA H . C O M the greatest snow on earth

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A DIFFERENT ADVENTURE EVERY DAY. No other ski destination gives you more. World-class ski resorts and a seemingly limitless number of bars, brewpubs, sporting events, museums, restaurants, food trucks, and concerts – you’ll find the adventure you’re looking for. Welcome to Salt Lake. Welcome to Ski City. PLAN YOUR TRIP AT SKICITY.COM» 4 skiutah.com