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30 Y E ARS OF I ND EPE N DE N T J O UR NAL ISM | C ITY PAPE R . NET

C I T Y PA P E R ’ S G U I D E T O P H I L A D E L P H I A

2013 - 2014

welcome to our city

PUBLISHER Nancy Stuski

EDITOR IN CHIEF Theresa Everline

MANAGING EDITOR Emily Guendelsberger

we’re here to help you get the most out of it.

PHOTOGRAPHER Neal Santos

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Jordyn Horowitz, Michelle Ma, Dan McQuade, Mike Mullen, Patrick Rapa, Paulina Reso, Caroline Russock, Matt Schickling, Isaiah Thompson, Lara Witt

words by Theresa Everline This publication by Philadelphia City Paper staff is our way of offering welcome to all new transplants as well as those in search of a richer Philadelphia experience. This metropolis is home to clichés about cheesesteaks (yes, try one) and pretzels (ditto). It’s also the founding spot of, well, the nation itself.

PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Michael Polimeno

As a way to introduce you to Philly and encourage you to explore it, City Guide lays it all out for you in two sections.

CREATIVE/ART DIRECTOR Reseca Peskin

“The Basics” provides a primer — a cheat sheet, if you will. These short articles offer some context for the local experience. Read them to get up to speed on some of the city’s venues, events and quirks. “The Hoods” introduces all of Philly’s neighborhoods, with their variety of styles, people and architecture. For each we offer an overview, a list of quick-hit spots, civic information to help you be a good citizen and listings of all sorts of establishments.

CONTRIBUTING DESIGNERS Brenna Adams, Jenni Betz, Evan M. Lopez

SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGERS Colette Alexandre (x250) Nick Cavanaugh (x260) Sharon MacWilliams (x262) Stephan Sitzai (x258)

Explore the landscape. Enjoy the idiosyncrasies. We hope you’ll stay a while.

ACCOUNT MANAGERS City Guid It is e is a p Mon publish ed a ublicatio tgom n n e in So ry, Che nually an of Phila d ster, d dis uth J avail B tribu elphia C e u rsey able ity ted in and cks and free Add D N Phila Paper. of ch elaw orth ition delp e a a r r a r n e g l hia, e, li cop Dela cou $4.5 perm 0 per co ies may mited to ware. C nties, an b d it o p is e y Gu ne c y. No sion p of ea u r o ide is chas from pers ch is ed fr py per r t o h s n e u eade may, o e. Pe publi inser r. with m our o nns she tin per o g printe ylvania la r, take m out prio ffice at d r r o w mate writt mag re th p Con r o azin e hibit an o rial ten s an ne c n right ts copyr e withou of any k opy ind in y perso prod s reserv ight © 2 t the co n t f o an ed. N ns 0 uced y ne rom o pa 13, Phila ent of t wsp Phila without h r d writt ts of this elphia C e publis adelp her. hia C en p it p than y Pa ublic erm ity pe th a occu pied e cance Paper as ission fr tion may r. All lla om t )f su glad he p be reto fu or accid tion of c ames no ubli en ha rnish o a sig tal error rges for bligation sher. ned s lette in adve s the actu (other a r r com men to the b tising, sb l space ut ts to u edito ying pub will be rial@ li u cityp c. Send aper .net. m

Amanda Gambier (x250) Megan Musser (x215)

OFFICE COORDINATOR Alexis Pierce

CIRCULATION DIRECTOR Mark Burkert Philadelphia City Paper // 30 South 15th St., 14th floor Philadelphia, PA 19102 // Phone: 215-735-8444 // Fax: 215-735-8353 // citypaper.net Cover Illustration by Cameron K. Lewis

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CITYGUIDE 2013 - 2014

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table of contents

56

University City

59

West/Southwest Philly

62

Germantown + Mt. Airy + Chestnut Hill

64

Manayunk + Roxborough + East Falls

66

North Philly + Temple + Olney + West Oak Lane

68

The Northeast

70

Fishtown + Kensington + Port Richmond

THE BASICS

72

Northern Liberties

10

PHILADELPHIA The story so far (or: How we got over).

75

Art Museum + Fairmount + Brewerytown

12

NEED TO KNOW Useful tips for how things work here.

78

Spring Garden + Chinatown + Callowhill

14

SAY WHAT YOU WILL A guide to the quirks of the local lexicon.

16

BEER AND LOATHING Our medieval liquor laws are enough to drive you to drink.

18

TAKING IT TO THE STREETS A seasonal rundown of Philly’s festivals.

20

TWO WHEELS GOOD The dos and don’ts of biking in Philly.

22

PHILADELPHIA BICYCLE MAP Point your wheels here for bike lanes and trails.

24

SEPTA REGIONAL RAIL AND RAIL TRANSIT MAP The inside track on our trains and trolleys.

26

AROUND THE WORLD Where to find Philly’s ethnic-food enclaves.

28

FIELDER’S CHOICE Philly is full of good sports.

30

STAGE WHISPERS A rundown of some of Philly’s finer music venues.

32

THE EXHIBITIONISTS Art in Philly.

OPENER 4

Welcome to our city: We’re here to help you get the most out of it.

THE HOODS 36

Rittenhouse + Fitler Square + Logan Circle

40

Gayborhood + Midtown Village

44

Old City + Society Hill + Washington Square West + South Street

48

Queen Village + Pennsport

50

Bella Vista + Italian Market + East Passyunk

52

South Philly

54

Graduate Hospital + Grays Ferry + Point Breeze // photo by Neal Santos

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CITYGUIDE 2013 - 2014

a user’s guide to the city

the basics

Location Ben Franklin Bridge // photo by Neal Santos

historical timeline

BASICS

philadelphia words by Patrick Rapa illustrations by Evan M. Lopez

the story so far (or: how we got over)

1854: The Meat Up Up till this point, Philadelphia proper was simply the area between the Delaware and Schuylkill rivers and Vine and South streets. During the act of consolidation, 28 surrounding townships, boroughs and districts were carefully selected and cobbled together to form the precise shape of a pork chop.

6,000 years ago: Saga Genesis In the beginning, Adam and Eve galloped bareback around Pangaea on their Model T-Rexes, doing donuts and dropping babies.

1799 - 1848: Follow the Leader 1682: Monarchy from the U.K. Step aside, Lenapeeps, Finnzies, Dutchwives and Swedeypies — Penn scored a permission slip from Charles II to found the city and state for the glory of Mum England. The charter called for a “greene country towne” full of parks and trees. Philadelphians instead subdivided their lots and began gathering in unsanitary crowds in Old City, a tradition that continues to this day.

1682

1706

Pre-Colonial: Shackamaxed Out

1774

Competition wasn’t exactly stiff for famous firsts back in the post-Independence days. And that’s the way Philly liked it. We had the nation’s first water works, fine arts promotion society, daily newspaper, art institution, carbonated water, insurance company, public bank, abolition act, penny newspaper, use of gas as an illuminant, regular comics paper and more. Philadelphia also created America’s first laurels, then sat on them.

1793

1799

1854

1793: And It Was All Yellow Fever

Before there was a Philadelphia, there was a Shackamaxon. A Lenni Lenape Indian village stood in the place we now call Kensington, and the residents hunted, gathered, farmed and buried souvenir arrowheads. They never heard of Jesus or white people until William Penn showed up with a treaty and a quill. Blah blah blah. You can visit the Lenape today in Oklahoma.

Already wildly unpopular, mosquitoes suffered a PR nightmare after a few people they landed on, like only 5,000, allegedly got a touch of yellow fever, barfed up a couple blood clots and died a little bit. Retaliatory swatting claimed untold millions.

1706 - 1790: Ben Franklin, Founding Philanderer Philly’s patron saint started the New World’s first newspaper, hospital and library, invented the lightning rod, the iron furnace stove, odometer and bifocals. A renowned carouser, he also invented the pickup line: Well done is better than well said, now get thee wench into my bed.

1774 - 1781: Down with the King After years of unrepped taxes and flavorless food — not to mention the emotional toll — we were ready to just delete Britain from Friendster and move on, but of course there had to be drama. The Revolutionary War happened and it was this whole big thing. Philly was the epicenter for colonial dissent, hosting two Continental Congresses (a record!) and vanity-pressing Common Sense, the Declaration and the Constitution. After the war, we were the capital of the United States, until we got bored of it.

1981 and 1985: A Series of Unfortunate Events The moments that continue to define and haunt modern Philadelphia are two instances of violence involving AfricanAmericans and the police. On a December day in 1981, fate’s crossroads were at 13th and Locust; so were Mumia Abu-Jamal and officer Daniel Faulkner. In 1985, Mayor Wilson Goode and the PPD made the curious decision to drop a bomb on the Osage Avenue compound of anarcho-primitivist organization MOVE. Since then, race relations have been great and our cops are like big cuddly teddy bears with guns.

1876

Early 1900s: Keystone Cops

Today: Approaching Perfection

Once the most important city in the universe, Philadelphia started getting a rep for corruption and backwardness. The mob was everywhere, Prohibition was openly mocked, somebody leaked our pretzel recipe to Auntie Ann and our cops were crookeder than our hockey players’ noses. A real live brigadier general, one Smedley Butler, was brought in to clean up the town by militarizing the police force and declaring war on speakeasies and hookers. Dude lasted about a week.

Our citizens share. Our cops behave. Our bike lanes are silky smooth. The Roots are the biggest band in the world and still drop by from time to time. Our sports teams are pretty good. We have not had a crime or fire or complaint in so long that all the people who know what those words mean are dead and awaiting burial. As you read this, a massagebot is gently working on those knots in your neck and shoulders. “Bid farewell to fear and worry, friend,” it whispers. “You are home.”

1900

1950

1973

1981

2008

2013

2008: Ballers Once More

1876: New Century Schoolbook Like some overcompensating nouveauriche douchebag, the U.S. threw itself a massive 100th birthday rager — the Centennial International Exposition! The first World’s Fair! — in Fairmount Park. We all gazed at modern marvels and, when everyone finally went home, we left some of the buildings standing cuz everybody loves a party but nobody wants to clean up.

1992

Concluding a 25-year sports championship drought that had steadily eroded the city’s self-esteem, the Phillies won the World Series. Only a few cars got flipped over and the fires were few and manageable.

1960 - 1983: You Mad? Philadelphia was the toast of the sports world. The Sixers and Flyers were champs twice, the Phillies, Eagles and Rocky all took home hardware. Around the same time, Gamble and Huff were putting Philly soul and funk on the national stage. It was a good time to be alive.

Post - WWII: Boom and Gloom Philly’s population peaked at more than 2 million in 1950 and everybody was polite and had polio. Then came white flight: Caucasians flocked to the suburbs, led by Connie Mack’s Philadelphia A’s, who ran all the way to Kansas City.

1992: Mayor Ed In 1991, Ed Rendell, a nondescript former DA, made his second run for mayor, this time defeating Frank “billy club in my cummerbund” Rizzo, who by that time was deceased. Ed’s infamous appetite is considered the driving factor behind Philadelphia’s economic turnaround, which saw once-decrepit Center City blossom into one huge restaurant district. He went on to become governor, chairman of the DNC and a recurring figure on Neanderthal sports talk shows. C I T Y PA P E R . N E T

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plete stop; your weight triggers the door.

be practical

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Where is 14th Street? Philadelphia was the first city to employ numbered streets, which in most of the city run north-south. Numbering starts at one (though it’s called Front Street instead of First) in the east at the Delaware River and increases as you go west, all the way to 77th in West Philly and to little-seen 90th down by the airport. The only other skipped number is 14th, which instead is called Broad Street.

need to know

tips for newbies from a born-andraised philadelphian. words by Dan McQuade Philadelphia can be an intimidating place. It’s just so different. Yeah, people say that about every city. But the City of Brotherly Love really is a strange place. This has vexed many a newcomer in its 300-plus years, but that doesn’t mean you have to play the part of the rube. Here are some tips on making it in the best goddamn city on earth. What’s a token, and why can’t I find a place to buy one? Also, why won’t the bus driver give back my $20? SEPTA is a less-fun Chuck E. Cheese, the last major transit system in the country to use tokens. It gets worse: Cashiers and drivers don’t sell tokens. They don’t give change, either, so your ride will be pricey if you pay with a $20 bill. The best way to get a discounted fare — tokens are $1.80, while a ride is $2.25 cash — is to stock up on tokens in advance at SEPTA retail windows. Token-sale locations are at septa.org/sales. But SEPTA’s getting there: The system is scheduled to go to fare cards by year’s end. How do I get off the bus/trolley? Pull the cord along the inside of the bus shortly before arriving at your stop or corner. Wait by the door in the back or front. Don’t stick it to the man: Stay behind the yellow line! If you’re on a bus, the driver will open the door for you. If you’re standing in the back and he or she fails to notice that you need to get off, yell, “BACK DOOR!” On trolleys, you need to step down onto the exit steps after the trolley has come to a com12

CITYGUIDE 2013 - 2014

Why is everyone wearing glittery crap? If you’re on Broad Street on New Year’s Day, the people marching in ridiculous costumes are called Mummers. They are engaging in Mummery. (While many cities have New Year’s parades, only Philadelphia’s is done by drunk amateurs.) If it’s March, the glitter is green and there are lots of school buses driving around, that’s the Erin Express, a monthlong bar-crawl celebration of Irish heritage, binge drinking, vomit, blacking out and awkward three-way makeouts in the 7-Eleven parking lot. Where should I go running? The most popular spot is Kelly Drive, the path along the east side of the Schuylkill River. Martin Luther King Drive, along the opposite riverbank, is also good. Otherwise, Philadelphia’s grid street system makes setting goals easy. (Say, do an extra two blocks every run.) The absolute best place to run in Philadelphia is Belmont Plateau, in Fairmount Park off Montgomery Drive. (This is “A place called the Plateau is where everybody go” in the Fresh Prince’s “Summertime.”) What about parks? Rittenhouse Square is the best place for people-watching; Schuylkill River Park is the best place for dog-watching. University City’s Penn Park, open to the public, has good artificial turf and grass fields. Clark Park is the big gathering spot in West Philly. Race Street Pier offers a cool view of the Delaware River and Ben Franklin Bridge, and has free wifi. What’s a quizzo? Quizzo is a trivia night at a bar, usually held on one night Sunday through Thursday to beef up crowds. It’s a way for athletically challenged dorks to finally win something. How do I properly order a cheesesteak? Specify a type of cheese (usually American, provolone or cheese whiz) and “wit or witout” onions. Simple!

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CHALLENGING

BREEZE! EWbVcaWb¸aO

/QQ]c\bW\UWaOZZeSR]OZZROg SdS`gROg

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1526-30 E. Passyunk Avenue Philadelphia, PA 19147 215-952-0811 www.urbanjunglephila.com

B ASI CS

speak easy

say what you will a guide to the quirks of the local lexicon. words by Dan McQuade Ack·a·me [pronunciation: ACK-a-me], noun. 1. A supermarket, usually but not always the ACME chain of supermarkets owned by Albertson’s: I need to pick up some Arctic Splash at Ack-a-me. down·a·shur [pronunciation: down-a-SURE], noun. 1. Being located in a coastal resort town, usually on a barrier island in South Jersey but occasionally referring to Delaware or North Jersey; compression of “down the shore”: I have a house downashur for the week. drawlin [pronunciation: DRAWL-in], adjective. 1. Acting weird or uncharacteristic of usual behavior; tripping: Miss Dee, you drawlin today! Fluff·yia [pronunciation: FLUFF-ya], noun. 1. The City of Philadelphia: I’m on the streets of Fluffyia. Gir·ahd [pronunciation: jeer-AHD]. 1. One of a few instances in which many Philadelphians drop an “R” in the pronunciation of a word (“Charlie’s Pizza” and “bastard” are other somewhat common instances): Get off the El at the Girahd stop. hoa·gie [pronunciation: HOH-gee], noun. 1. A sandwich on a long, split Italian roll filled with meats, cheeses, vegetables and seasonings. Outside the region, this may be known as a submarine sandwich, grinder, hero, etc.: I’m hungry, let’s get a hoagie at Paesano’s. jawn [pronunciation: JAHN], noun. 1. An item, event, place or gathering. Can literally mean anything you want, usually preceded by “that” and sometimes taking a modifier for clarity: Hand me that jawn. What time are we going to that jawn? la·ger [pronunciation: LAH-ger], noun. 1. Exclusively refers to a Yuengling Lager; this is true everywhere in the Philadelphia area no matter how much beer nerds try to change it: Hey, barkeep, give me two lagers. mare [pronunciation: MARE], noun. 1. The mayor of Philadelphia (or any city), pronounced not may-or but like a horse: Mare Nutter walked down Market Street past the OTB. old·head [pronunciation: OLD-hed], noun. 1. An old person, especially one out of touch: That oldhead doesn’t even have a cell phone! pave·ment [pronunciation: PAY-mint] noun. 1. The sidewalk: Stay on the pavement when you play, Bobby; riding your bike in the street isn’t safe.

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CITYGUIDE 2013 - 2014

ph - [pronunciation: F-], prefix. 1. Used to replace an “F” in written language by Philadelphians failing to be clever: Yo, that Phillies game was phucking phantastic! sal·ty [pronunciation: SAHL-tee], adjective. 1. A feeling of embarrassment when shown to be incorrect in a dispute with another person: He felt salty when Anna asked his friend out instead of him. Interjection. 1. A word shouted in triumph when the person on the opposite side of a dispute can be presumed to feel salty: “Salty!” he shouted, smearing a soft pretzel all over his defeated rival’s face. tap MAC [pronunciation: TAP MAK], verb. 1. The act of taking money out of an automated teller machine; used exclusively by people over 28 years old or so: Let me tap MAC before we go to the bar, Tom. That’s what’s up! [pronunciation: thats whats up], interjection. 1. An exclamation used to express delight or enthusiasm after something awesome happens: The Phillies won the World Series! That’s what’s up! Wall Women [pronunciation: wahl WEHmen], proper noun. 1. In the words of Jim Quinn, “America’s greatest male poet of the 19th century, Walt Whitman”; usually used when referring to the bridge: Take the Wall Women bridge to Wall Women’s grave in Camden. wood·er [pronunciation: WOULD-er], noun. 1. A liquid made of two hydrogen atoms, one oxygen atom and, according to a Water Department study, 56 different pharmaceutical drugs when it comes from the tap: Why does everyone else in the country pronounce ‘wooder’ incorrectly? yo [pronunciation: YOH], interjection. 1. An informal greeting: Yo, Adrian, let’s not quote that movie. 2. An expression of disgust or disapproval: Yo, you just hit my car! 3. Present, here: Sylvester Stallone, are you here? Yo, I’m in the back. young bol [pronunciation: YUNG BUL], noun. 1. A young man, or someone younger than the speaker, at least; variably spelled “bul” or “bull”: You’re my young bol. youse [pronunciation: USE], pl. pronoun. 1. The pronoun of the second-person plural; similar to y’all (in the South) or yinz (in Pittsburgh): When are youse going to the game?

BASICS

booze cruise

beer and loathing

our medieval liquor laws are enough to drive you to drink.

words by Isaiah Thompson In the summer of 2013, a bill that would stop letting a state-owned monopoly impose its bizarre will on Pennsylvanians tettered around the State Capitol in Harrisburg. In the end, Republicans failed in their push to include the privatization of liquor sales in the budget bill, but they’re keeping hope alive that they can accomplish it in the fall. In the meantime, we’re stuck with the fact that Pennsylvania has had some of the crotchetiest liquor laws in the country since ... well, always. It was only in 2012 that state Republicans — their other plans for Pennsylvania (destroying public schools, leasing every inch of forest for fracking) aside — seemed intent on doing something about it. For now, you, my thirsty friend, remain but a vassal to the Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board and its Orwellian rules for how, when and to what degree of hardship you can purchase alcohol. To be fair, the PLCB means decent jobs for plenty of perfectly decent people who can get these jobs via an old-fashioned civil-service system, and dismantling it would mean the loss of those good jobs for those good people. That 16

CITYGUIDE 2013 - 2014

said, the PLCB is better known to most for its strange rules. How strange? Strange enough that the PLCB won’t let you buy wine in supermarkets, but in 2010 tried a curious experiment with “wine kiosks” at supermarkets that utterly failed. Strange enough that celebrity chef Jose Garces is, like, the only dude in Philly allowed to sell wine without operating a state store. Strange enough that beer must be purchased either from beer distributors “in quantities of not less than a case,” from the relatively few delis that resell distributor beer for at least twice the distributor’s price, or from bars with “take-out” licenses, which might charge even more. Why? Because the PLCB says so, that’s why. There is that glimmer of hope that Republicans will manage to loosen the PLCB’s iron grip. But maybe they’re too busy cutting services for poor people in Philly. Anyway, for now at least, the system remains, and the only ways to beat it are illegal and difficult to pull off without a car to drive across state lines. Best just to face the reality: One way or another, you’re gonna pay the price of living in Pennsylvania, so you might as well strategize. Center City-wise, there are plenty of delis that sell beer, but for the best selection, head to boutique suds shops like Beer Heaven (1100 S. Columbus Blvd., Suite 23, 215271-5248) or one of the three locations of The Foodery (837 N. Second St., 215-2386077; 324 S. 10th St., 215-928-1111; 6148 Ridge Ave., 215-482-4500, fooderybeer. com), which let you mix-a-six from tons of individually sold beers, local and otherwise. Hawthornes (738 S. 11th St., 215-627-3012, hawthornecafe.com) even has a growler list. But be forewarned: The prices ain’t low. If you’re able to transport a case of beer, Bella Vista Beer Distributors (755 S. 11th St., 215-627-6465, bellavistabeverage.com) boasts an unusually wide selection, including plenty of Belgians and an entire room full of seasonals. Wine lovers will do well to visit the Reading Terminal Market’s Blue Mountain Wine

(51 N. 12th St., 215-238-9022, bluemountainwine.com) or the back room of Garces Trading Co. (1111 Locust Street, 215-5741099, garcestradingcompany.com), which, as previously noted, the chef is, for some reason, allowed to operate independently. For those less interested in décor, Wine & Spirits state stores (finewineandgoodspirits.com) might do the trick.

stuff to do the whole year round.

words by Emily Guendelsberger // illustration by Evan M. Lopez The Mummers Parade (and drink, and wear feathers, and pee in public) as the year turns

JANUARY

over, phillymummers.com. race/obstacle course is far but fun for par-

The “no vomiting” rule says it all. The Flower Show and Tattoo

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storytelling, firstpersonarts.org.

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First Person Festival, a celebration of

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Philadelphia Film Festival, filmadelphia.org.

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ticipants and spectators, bilenky.com.

Wing Bowl, a Philly tradition:

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The Bilenky Junkyard Cyclocross bike

Convention hit the Convention Center at nearly the same time, paconvention.com. At Philadelphia Science Festival and Philly Tech Week, the nerds shine, philasciencefestival.

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During FringeArts, the whole city turns into an alt-theater/

literary events, 215festival.org.

Northern Liberties’ 2nd Street Festival brings lots of folk acts for free, 2ndstfestival.org.

ered creations tour Frankford Ave., then

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ear to the ground for details.

our favorite event of the year, as bike-pow-

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The Naked Bike Ride: Keep your

The Kensington Kinetic Sculpture Derby is

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three weeks, fringearts.com.

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philly festivals

survive a mud pit, kinetickensington.org. The Roots Picnic: the only time you’re going to see De La Soul and tUnE-yArDs on the same bill, okayplayer.com/rootspicnic.

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lift the lamppost right out of the pavement, move on. And, seriously, secure both tires. Lighten up: Don’t get a mountain bike or a hybrid, which is really just a less ridiculouslooking mountain bike. You want a road bike, something lightweight and maneuverable. You’ll thank me when you’re scaling Manayunk or lugging it up three flights of stairs. Get smart: Don’t hang anything from your handlebars unless it’s super secure. I had a bag swing into my front spokes at Eighth and Market and I flipped forward, hard, breaking an arm and a tooth. Somebody came running out of Burger King with napkins for my bleeding face. They smelled delicious.

philadelphia cycle city

Beware of ghosts: Philly’s streets are haunted by ancient terrors. Trolley tracks should be crossed only at rightish angles and avoided in slippery conditions. Cobblestones can warp your wheels. Horse-drawn carriages like to drop poop speed bumps throughout Old City.

two wheels good

the unspoken dos and don’ts of biking in philly. words by Patrick Rapa Like swimming and sword swallowing, you can’t really be taught how to ride a bicycle in Philadelphia. You just gotta nut up and go for it. That said, you might benefit from the collected wisdom of an elder bikesman like myself, somebody who’s loved and lost (teeth) on the half-mean streets of this city. Relax: More designated lanes and paths pop up every day, and you have to share most of them only with other bikers, joggers, unchecked cabbies, entitled cheapskate churchgoers, kneeling buses and drivers who just pulled over to run a quick errand for like 10-15 minutes, brb. Lock up: There are plenty of racks, signs and headless parking meters to which you can (double) U-lock your bike. Just give it a tug first. If you can 20

CITYGUIDE 2013 - 2014

Protect yourself: Wear a helmet. Tuck in your pant cuffs. Avoid storm drains, high curbs, metal slabs and low potholes — they’re murder on your spokes and genitals. Pay attention: Learn how to interpret the vehicular body language of SEPTA buses, delivery trucks and weekend-warrior car sharers. Avoid riding against traffic or between things that might suddenly move and squish you. And don’t bike with your headphones on. You make me nervous when you do that. Stop: It used to be that bicyclists rolled right through stop signs and red lights with impunity. We still do, but these days there’s a very, very slight chance you’ll get a ticket. Don’t trust pedestrians: They will walk right out in front of you and then act like you’re the asshole for almost killing them. Don’t trust cars: They fail to signal, they swing open doors in your path, they honk, they think bikes don’t belong on the road. Drivers are the worst. Don’t trust other bicyclists: We are also the worst sometimes. NNNFlip to the next page to see a detailed map of Philly’s

bike lanes. For information on biking in Philadelphia, visit bicyclecoalition.org.

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13th & Market Station

City Hall 15th St. Station for (BSL / MFL)

Sansom St.

24th St.

30th St.

33rd St.

34th St.

36th St.

Chestnut St. 38th St.

Ludlow St.

Chestnut St.

15th St.

34th & Market Station

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22nd St.

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Philadelphia Zoo

SEPTA Bike & Ride www.septa.org/policy/bike.html

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24th St.

25th St.

26th St.

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30th St.

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CITYGUIDE 2013 - 2014

Proposed Bike Facilities Bike Lane Buffered Bike Lane Sharrow Trail / Sidepath

13th St.

27th St.

30th St.

32nd St.

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15th St.

16th St.

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19th St.

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20th St.

21st St.

22nd St.

23rd St.

Tasker St.

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Hospital Bike Shop / Repair No Bike Access

Sources: Philadelphia City Planning Commission, Philadelphia Streets Department, Philadelphia Department of Parks and Recreation, Mayor’s Office of Transportation and Utilities, SEPTA, Delaware Valley Regional Planning Commission.

Moore St.

Mifflin St.

12th St.

Walnut St.

½

Reed St.

Transportation

Broad St.

Locust Street: At-grade entrance. Gates close when trains pass. Bike ramp overpass coming 2013.

Sansom St.

Bike Lane Buffered Bike Lane Sharrow Paved Trail / Sidepath Un-paved Trail / Sidepath Connector Street Designated Bike Route

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Chestnut St.

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24th St.

Ludlow St.

15th St.

25th St.

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Wharton St.

25th St.

Market St.

Oakford St.

26th St.

JFK Blvd.

Wharton St.

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27th St.

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JFK Bridge: Staircase entrance on south side with built-in bike channel

23rd St.

Cherry St.

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Race St.

Race Street: At-grade entrance. Gates close when trains pass.

Schuylkill River Trail Entrances Inset

Grays Ferry Ave.

16th St.

Washington Ave.

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Market & Chestnut Street Bridges: Ramp entrance to trail. Walk your bike on ramp.

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Philadelphia is always expanding its on- and off-street network of facilities for cyclists. Here’s what we’ve got so far, and how to use it:

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5th & Market Station 6th St.

10th St.

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Market St.

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Christopher Columbus Blvd.

11th & Market Station

Independence National Historical Park

Sansom St.

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Penn’s Landing

Delaware River

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Arch St.

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Trail / Sidepath Trails and sidepaths are off-road facilities intended exclusively for bicycles and pedestrians. The vast majority of trails and sidepaths accommodate both sets of users, so cyclists should exercise caution and be alert for slower moving persons. Connector Streets These are streets where none of the above facilities exist, but the street is an important connecting route for cyclists and/or is considered bicycle-friendly. These become necessary in places where gaps still exist between different parts of the bicycle network. Conflict Zones Conflict zones are marked with dashed green paint. They are intended to alert cyclists and motorists that they need to share the same space.

Spruce St.

H Pine St.

Bike Box Bike boxes are spaces where cyclists are encouraged to pull out in front of cars so that they are more visible when lights change and vehicles turn. Bike boxes are sometimes painted with a green background. Other times, a standard bike symbol is placed on black pavement in front of a stop bar for cars.

Pine St.

Lombard St.

Front St.

Bainbridge St.

5th St.

6th St.

10th St.

South St.

11th St.

Bike Lanes (221.6 miles) The standard bike lane is 5 ft wide and distinguished from traffic by a single white line. Direction of travel is indicated by arrows marked in the lane. Pedestrians and motorists are not permitted to travel in the bike lane. Sharrows (6.1 miles) “Sharrows”, or shared-use arrows, are a bicycle symbol paired with a double chevron. They indicate that motorists must share the road. Sharrows are placed in the roadway to minimize conflicts with parked car doors and other obstacles. Cyclists should ride directly over the sharrow.

½

½

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½

Ave.

Front St.

10th St.

11th St.

12th St.

Brown St.

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Designated Bike Routes The East Coast Greenway is a 2500 mile route linking cities from Maine to Florida. The goal is to develop an entirely off-road alignment for the ECG. Other designated bike routes include the Cobbs Creek Greenway and Frankford Creek Greenway.

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Federal St.

12th St.

Front St.

2nd St.

4th St.

5th St.

6th St.

7th St.

8th St.

9th St.

10th St.

11th St.

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Bicycle Signage Philadelphia has a comprehensive wayfinding system that cyclists can use to determine direction and distance to key trails, parks, and other destinations. Signs show between 1 and 3 destinations and can differ in size. A white bicycle symbol clearly designates each sign. Other sign types include sidewalk decals, which remind cyclists to “walk your wheels” on sidewalks, and traffic signs that identify bike lanes and areas where users should expect to share the road. Bicycle Parking In the past 5 years the City has installed thousands of new bike parking spaces throughout Philadelphia. In addition to the Philly-standard “U-rack”, look for the secure green bicycle logos on posts in Center City and University City. New in 2012, there are bike corrals where bike parking is allowed in the street at locations in Center City, West Philly and Fishtown. Look for more to come in 2013. Bike rack locations are mapped at opendataphilly.org

C I T Y PA P E R . N E T

23

24

CITYGUIDE 2013 - 2014

BASICS

around the world words by Emily Guendelsberger // illustration by Evan M. Lopez The availability of really good food from other cultures depends mostly on a city’s immigration demographics — for example, it’s tough to find good, cheap Thai in Philly, but good, cheap Ethiopian is available in every third bar in West Philly. You just need to know where to look. It takes

26

CITYGUIDE 2013 - 2014

a while to suss out where to get kimchi, diamond sweets, mofongo or pierogies like grandma used to make — a lot of the time, the really authentic food is clustered in a small area with a large immigrant population, and these clusters can be a long subway trip or even drive from Center City.

You’ll have to find specific restaurants on your own, but this map is a great starting point for where to start looking.

A New Hope Hypnosis • WILL POWER • Often doesn’t work. If you have subconscious resistance then the harder you try, the harder it pushes back. If it’s a struggle then you’re fighting yourself.

• REAL POWER • Real power comes with awareness. Your habits of today are based on moments from your past. Are you ready to face yourself and find freedom in the here and now? With hypnosis we can access your past, update your emotions, behaviors and transform your life.

HYPNOTHERAPY Damian Miller, Certified Clinical Hypnotherapist Center City 15th and Sansom

215-839-8056 No better time than the present

stop smoking • addiction lose weight • cravings • eating disorders • stress less • anxiety fears • phobias • love • value yourself • courage • motivation intimacy • trust issues • sexual issues • self expression • social group anxieties • creativity stop procrastinating • believe in yourself • lose your baggage stop worry • bad habits

Watch testimonials at we are all unique www.anewhopehypnosis.com so the list goes on and on call for a free consult

BASICS

2007. The good news: They won their second World Series in 2008 (the other one coming in 1980). The other bad news: Their core of awesome players is aging fast.

home teams

Eagles Sport: football Colors: green, silver, white Venue: Lincoln Financial Field Unofficial Motto: E-A-G-Etc. Defining Fan Moment: Throwing snowballs at Santa in 1968. A later investigation revealed that it was just a guy dressed as Santa but we’ve never lived it down. Notes: The Eagles have never won the Super Bowl, but their fans are insufferably cocky anyway, always chanting, strategizing and basically strutting around like temporarily embarrassed champions. Silver Linings Playbook was a fairly accurate representation of how excited and excitable we can get. Best tailgating scene in the country, BTW.

fielder’s choice

philly’s full of good sports and boisterous fans. words by Patrick Rapa Flyers Sport: hockey Colors: orange, black, white Venue: Wells Fargo Center Unofficial Motto: Everybody Hurts Defining Fan Moment: The time that drunk dude fell in the penalty box and fought Tie Domi. Notes: The Flyers have a reputation for tough play, annual playoff appearances and season-ending heartbreak. The franchise won its two (and only) Stanley Cups in ’74 and ’75, back when Bobby Clarke, Bernie Parent and the Broad Street Bullies were punching the entire NHL (and the Russian Red Army) in the face. Since then, the Flyers have come close a few times and almost come close a lot. That said, this could be their year. I say that every year. Even last year, which was their worst in a long time. So close! Phillies Sport: baseball Colors: red, white, a little blue Venue: Citizen’s Bank Ballpark Unofficial Motto: World Fucking Champions Defining Fan Moment: Is it the tazing at centerfield or that dude who barfed on a kid on purpose? Notes: The bad news is that the 129-year-old Phillies are, arguably, the losingest pro franchise in any sport ever, having reached 10,000 losses in 28

CITYGUIDE 2013 - 2014

Sixers Sport: basketball Colors: red, white, blue Venue: Wells Fargo Center Unofficial Motto: We’re getting there. Defining Fan Moment: It’s been a while since this team has had fans or moments. Notes: Long gone are the days of Dr. J, Charles Barkley and Allen Iverson. Now the once-proud 76ers have stars you never heard of, like the tall dude, the old guy and the kid with the weird voice. Scrappy overachievers. Good seats still available. Union Sport: soccer Colors: blue, gold Venue: PPL Park (in Chester) Motto: I was open when I told you to kick it to me but now I’m not. Defining Fan Moment: The Union’s fan club, The Sons of Ben, predates the team by three years and essentially willed the team into existence. They set the league standard for enthusiasm and creative/crude chanting. Notes: The surprise hit of the Philly sports world: Games are well attended and people are buying the jerseys (even though they advertise Bimbo baking company right on the front). See Also: Wings: Home games for our long-standing indoor lacrosse team have a strange, family-friendly/Roman Colosseum vibe. • Roller Girls/Penn Jersey Roller Derby: Yes, Philly has two indie all-lady roller derby leagues. Always a good time. • Soul: Indoor football because why not. • Liberty Belles: Semi-pro women’s tackle football in Ambler. Independence: A women’s pro-soccer team based in Chester. • Philadelphia Freedoms: Tennis, apparently.

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947 E. PASSYUNK AVE (7th & Carpenter)

215.465.5505

Facebook.com/thedivebar

HAPPY HOUR - 7 DAYS! 5-7pm

BAS I CS

Sound: Great in the seats, can feel a bit distant up on the lawn. Sightlines: Same as the sound. Notes: A wide indoor/outdoor amphi-

theater that’s earthy and super chill.

stay tuned

MilkBoy Philly 1100 Chestnut St., 215-925MILK, milkboyphilly.com. Telltale bookings: Electric Six, Blood Feathers, Black Prairie Beer: Yep. Sound: Decent. Sightlines: Get tall. Notes: Leave the messenger bag at home; this place can get tight and sweaty.

stage whispers a quick survey of some of philly’s finer music venues. words by Patrick Rapa Electric Factory 421 N. Seventh St., 215-627-1332, electricfactory.info. Telltale bookings: Neko Case, Smash Mouth, Fall Out Boy Beer: There’s a big ol’ balcony area for drinking. Sound: Not bad for a giant rock ’n’ roll hangar. Sightlines: Very good. Notes: This is Philly’s general-admission warehouse venue. First Unitarian Church 2125 Chestnut St., 877-435-9849, r5productions.com. Telltale bookings: Fucked Up, Iceage, Purity Ring Beer: Nope. Sound: Good. Sightlines: Be tall (or be pushy but nice). Notes: Bookings are down to a trickle

at the city’s loveably dirty, sweaty, all-ages basement venue. Smaller and quieter stuff gets booked upstairs in the Sanctuary and Chapel. The crowd skews young. Johnny Brenda’s 1201 N. Frankford Ave., 215-739-9684, johnnybrendas.com. Telltale bookings: Kurt Vile, Marnie Stern, Porcelain Raft Beer: Good selection, several bars. Sound: Very good. Sightlines: Very good. Notes: JB’s is the go-to 21-plus indie-pop bar, and many of Philly’s finest have made it their home base.

North Star 2639 Poplar St., 215-787-0488, northstarbar.com. Telltale bookings: Ken Stringfellow, Kuf Knotz, Dick Dale Beer: Always good. Sound: Good. Sightlines: Stake out a spot early, shorties. Notes: The North Star does the basics well: good beer, good music and a working-class décor. TLA 334 South St., 215-922-1011, livenation.com. Telltale bookings: The Mountain Goats, Best Coast, Amanda Palmer Beer: In plastic cups. Sound: Very good. Sightlines: Very good. Notes: A friendly, all-ages generaladmission venue with a wide stage. Tower Theatre 69th and Ludlow streets, Upper Darby, 610-352-2887, tower-theatre.com. Telltale bookings: Regina Spektor, Fiona Apple, Meat Loaf Beer: Sure, get a pretzel braid, too. Sound: Great. Sightlines: Excellent. Notes: An airy, seated auditorium, this may be the most comfy big-concert experience in the area. Trocadero 1003 Arch St., 215-922-6888, thetroc.com. Telltale bookings: Big K.R.I.T., Die Antwoord, The Darkness, Wild Flag Beer: In plastic cups. Sound: Very good. Sightlines: Mostly good. Notes: The Troc’s a lovely old burlesque theater retrofitted for bigger all-ages general-admission rock/punk/hip-hop shows. Union Transfer 1026 Spring Garden St., 215-232-2100, utphilly.com. Telltale bookings: Heartless Bastards, Chvrches, Bob Mould Beer: There are bars all over the place. Sound: Amazing. Sightlines: Great. Notes: A big concert hall with a lot of character.

Kung Fu Necktie 1250 N. Front St., 877-435-9849, kungfunecktie.com. Telltale bookings: Nude Beach, Illvibe Collective, Spinto Band Beer: Good. Sound: Good. Sightlines: You’ll be fine. Notes: Tiny, friendly indie-rock bar

on the border of NoLibs and Kensington. Mann Center 5201 Parkside Ave., 215-893-1999, manncenter.org. Telltale bookings: Jill Scott, Sigur Rós, She & Him, Belle and Sebastian Beer: Fine. 30

CITYGUIDE 2013 - 2014

World Café Live 3025 Walnut St., 215222-1400, worldcafelive.com. Telltale bookings: Matthew Sweet, Bilal, Cracker Beer: Yes. Sound: Great. Sightlines: Great. Notes: Smaller shows upstairs, bigger ones downstairs, friendly vibes all over the house.

YOU CAN BE PART OF THE ELITE SWIM TEAM

RECEIVE UP TO $4000 IN 6 MONTHS!

BASI CS

stuff that wouldn’t fit anywhere else) and the Philadelphia Photo Arts Center, plus arts org Inliquid, which keeps up the most thorough First Friday listings around. Free, 1400 N. American St., 215-232-3203, cranearts.com. ICA Penn’s Institute of Contemporary Art combines the free price of a gallery with the large scale of a great contemporary art museum. Past exhibitions include Andy Warhol, R. Crumb and Sheila Hicks retrospectives, to drop a few names. Free, 118 S. 36th St., 215-898-7108, icaphila.org.

gallery go-to

Little Berlin This Kensington collective and gallery space is run and curated by a youngish crew of member artists. They also tend to host a lot of fun events and music shows, particularly since their move to a larger space with a lovely courtyard. Free, 2430 Coral St., littleberlin.org.

the exhibitionists art in philly.

words by Emily Guendelsberger Philly’s art scene runs the gamut from world-class monoliths on the Parkway to Old City’s wine-and-cheesy gallery scene to tiny storefronts in Kensington. But once a month, it all unites, simultaneously opening doors, new exhibits and bottles of wine for the free-booze-fueled frenzy that is First Friday — a citywide art party. To get you started, here’s a few reference points. The Barnes Foundation The latest big Parkway museum opened in spring 2012 after years of bitter legal battles about whether relocating the art collection of Albert C. Barnes would be a violation of his will’s stipulation that the paintings be kept in “exactly the places that they are.” But the original location of one of the best Impressionist collections in the world was a residential suburb that restricted visitors to 500 per week, so Barnes’ phrase was controversially interpreted to mean “…in relation to one another.” The new building, then, replicates the scale and proportion of the old galleries as well as Barnes’ idiosyncratic arrangements. $18, 2025 Ben Franklin Pkwy., 215-278-7000, barnesfoundation.org. Crane Arts Building This beautifully restored Kensington warehouse is home to several gallery spaces like the huge Icebox (which often has large-scale 32

CITYGUIDE 2013 - 2014

Philadelphia Museum of Art If someone refers to “the art museum,” they’re talking about this one. The PMA is one of the largest museums in the country; even so, it’s packed every first Sunday of the month on paywhat-you-wish day. Go looking for Marcel Duchamp’s Étant donnés, a creepy tableaux visible only through an unassuming peephole. (And don’t pose with the Rocky statue.) $14$20, 2600 Ben Franklin Pkwy., 215-763-8100, philamuseum.org. Space 1026 Artist-run collective Space 1026 is one of the oldest heads of Philly’s DIY art scene (since 1997). Its membership is diverse, but the tastes of its artist/curators — for black-and-white graphics, grotesque monsters, screenprinting, neon colors, pop culture, gallery-transforming installations and a sense of humor — have been a big factor in how the art world perceives Philly. Free, 1026 Arch St., 215-574-7630, space1026.com. Vox Populi Vox is an even older head than Space 1026, though it’s never been as solidly associated with one place. The 30-person collective has bounced around several homes across the city before settling into a building in a tumbleweed-y area just north of Chinatown whose four floors now house other artist-run studios and galleries like Practice, Tiger Strikes Asteroid, Marginal Utility, Napoleon and performance space Aux. Free, 319 N. 11th St., 215-238-1236, voxpopuligallery.org.

it’s where we live

the hoods

Location Cumberland Street // photo by Neal Santos

rittenhouse/fitler square/ logan circle

“In Rittenhouse, what’s old is new — you can find a 102year-old theater nestled in a residential block literally around the corner from some of the city’s best restaurants, museums and shopping, and that’s exactly what makes this city so exciting.”

photos by Neal Santos

— Daniel Student, artistic director, Plays & Players Theater

rittenhouse+fitler square+logan circle

If you live in the Second District, Kenyatta Johnson (215-686-3412) is your City Councilman.

meet me at the lion and the snake.

explore …

CENTER CITY WEST — with Rittenhouse at its center — is the ritzier-than-most-

DOOBIE’S A cozy, cheap neighborhood dive. 2201 Lombard

of-Philly area between Broad Street and the Schuylkill (say it: SKOO-kul) River, and South and Market streets. Walnut Street is lined with retail from Lululemon to Barney’s Co-op. Tiny, fancy dogs and their tiny, fancy owners rub shoulders with hulahoopers, buskers and picnickers in bustling Rittenhouse Square, one of the city’s best people-watching spots.

while you’re here … • Have a baguette and look out for any celebrity in town filming at Parc • Meet up with friends in Rittenhouse Square — designate a landmark (ours is the bronze statue “Lion Crushing a Serpent”) or you’ll never find each other • Take in a free lunchtime choir performance at the Church of the Holy Trinity • Get educated on brown liquors while getting spirited at Village Whiskey • Relive (or live) your youth at an all-ages R5 show at First Unitarian Church 36

you should know …

CITYGUIDE 2013 - 2014

BARS + CLUBS St., 215-546-0316

FRANKLIN MORTGAGE & INVESTMENT CO. This speakeasy-themed joint is expensive, but the cocktail menu is half a dozen imaginative pages. 112 S. 18th St., 267-467-3277, thefranklinbar.com

GOOD DOG The best mac & cheese in town; the beer’s good, too. 224 S. 15th St., 215-985-9600, gooddogbar.com

FADO IRISH PUB The place for pints and pub fare. 1500 Locust St.,

215-893-9700, fadoirishpub.com/philadelphia

MONK’S CAFÉ A dark, crowded Belgian joint with a staggering selection of international beers. Don’t miss their frites with bourbon mayonnaise.

drop for another manly meat menu.1500 Walnut St., 215-732-4444, butcherandsinger.com

CAFÉ LUTECIA This tiny spot serves up Gallic appreciation — its crowning glory is the tomato bisque.

264 S. 16th St., 215-545-7005, monkscafe.com

2301 Lombard St., 215-790-9557

NODDING HEAD House-brewed beer is what’s on tap here.

DI BRUNO BROS. With more olive oils than you can shake a stick at, Di Bruno’s is the place for your upscale ingredients and fancy deli fare. 1730

1516 Sansom St., 2nd Fl., 215-569-9525, noddinghead.com

OSCAR’S TAVERN A no-fuss dive with 22-ounce “tall” cups. The “tall lager” for around three bucks is a great idea; the “tall Long Island” is a terrible idea. 1524 Sansom St., 215-972-9938

THE RAVEN LOUNGE The name is a Poe homage; the velvet décor reflects the poet’s somber inclinations. 1718 Sansom St., 215-840-3577, ravenlounge.com

STIR A sleek, multibar gay lounge. 1705 Chancellor St., 215-732-2700, stirphilly.com

Chestnut St., 215-665-9220, dibruno.com

EL REY The walls are filled with trippy Mexican prison art; in the back is a covert cocktail bar. 2013 Chestnut St., 215-563-3330, elreyrestaurant.com

ERAWAN THAI CUISINE In a city with a scarcity of Thai spots, this is one of the few, and is quite tasty. 123 S. 23rd St., 215-567-2542, erawanphilly.com

HIPCITYVEG The Ziggy, a smoked tempeh burger, one-ups the Big Mac with its special sauce. 127 S. 18th St., 215-278-7605, hipcityveg.com

RESTAURANTS + MARKETS

LA COLOMBE Euro-bohemia meets Rittenhouse chic at the flagship shop of the richest java in town. 130 S.

ALMA DE CUBA The modern Latin offering from Stephen Starr’s empire. 1623 Walnut St., 215-988-1799,

19th St., 215-563-0860, lacolombe.com

almadecubarestaurant.com

MAMA PALMA’S An aesthetically pleasing pizzeria that’s all about wood-fired toasty tastes. 2229 Spruce St., 215-735-7357, mamapalmas.yolasite.com

METROPOLITAN CAFE Pot pies, mini pizzas and salads complemented by Green Street coffee offerings. 262 S. 19th St., 215-545-6655, metropolitanbakery.com

NOM NOM RAMEN Broth, pork belly, veggies and noodles. 20 S. 18th St., 215-988-0898, nomnomramen.com

OYSTER HOUSE The fried oysters with chicken salad is a lesser-known Philly specialty. 1516 Sansom St., 215-567-7683, oysterhousephilly.com

AUDREY CLAIRE Fresh ingredients in an airy setting. 276 S. 20th St., 215-731-1222, audreyclaire.com. BARCLAY PRIME Dedicated to the decadence of rare prime rib eyes, dry-aged porterhouses and turning burly machismo on its ear in the process. 237 S. 18th

PARC Watching the sun strike the open windows of Stephen Starr’s high-end French restaurant is a beyond-elegant moment. 227 S. 18th St., 215545-2262, parc-restaurant.com

PHILADELPHIA CHUTNEY CO. This quick-serve, vegetarian spot serves up mainly the South Indian crepes called dosas.

St., 215-732-7560, barclayprime.com

1628 Sansom St., 215-564-6446, philadelphiachutneyco.com

BUTCHER & SINGER A Mad Men aesthetic creates a toasty back-

PUB & KITCHEN A stellar booze selection and U.K.-inspired C I T Y PA P E R . N E T

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fare. 1946 Lombard St., 215-545-0350, thepubandkitchen.com

PURE FARE The calorie-conscious menu items were vetted by a professor of nutrition education. 119 S. 21st St., 267-318-7441, purefare.com

RACHAEL’S NOSHERI 120 S. 19th St., 215-568-9565

ROTISSEUR Cage-, hormone- and antibiotic-free rotisserie chicken paired with classic American sides. 102 S. 21st St., 215-496-9494, rotisseur.net

SBRAGA After winning season 7 of Top Chef, Kevin Sbraga brought his vision of upscale, downhome comfort food to Broad Street. 440 S. Broad St., 215-735-1913, sbraga.com

SHAKE SHACK A local outpost of the much-lauded New York burger joint, with a Philly-centric spin. 2000 Sansom St., 215-809-1742, shakeshack.com

school in the country, offers free or dirt-cheap course-requirment recitals and concerts clustered near the ends of semesters. 1726 Locust St., 215-717-3100, curtis.edu

FIRST UNITARIAN CHURCH The church’s basement is a sweaty all-ages haven for indie acts. Upstairs Chapel concerts are more intimate. 2125 Chestnut St., 215-5633980, r5productions.com

ARTS + CULTURE ACADEMY OF MUSIC A grand theater hosting the Opera Company of Philadelphia and the Pennsylvania Ballet. 1420 Locust St., 215-893-1935, academyofmusic.org

THE ADRIENNE THEATRE The 103-seater is kind of a time-share for many of the city’s smaller theater companies. 2030 Sansom St., 215-568-8077

CENTER FOR EMERGING VISUAL ARTISTS 237 S. 18th St., 215-546-7775, cfeva.org

SPREAD BAGELRY Montreal-style wood-fired bagels. The wait is worth it. 262 S. 20th St., 215-545-0626, spreadbagelry.com

TINTO Jose Garces’ Tinto follows a Spanish tapas model straight out of San Sebastian. 114 S. 20th St., 215-665-9150, tintorestaurant.com

TWENTY MANNING GRILL A bistro/lounge offering a casual American menu and fresh rotating “plates of the day.” 261 S. 20th St., 215-731-0900, twentymanning.com

UNDERDOGS Encased meats done up a couple dozen ways. 132 S. 17th St., 215-665-8080, underdogsphilly.com

VERNICK FOOD & DRINK After prepping spots for major-leaguer JeanGeorges Vongerichten, Gregory Vernick returned home with a menu reflecting his travels. 2031 Walnut St., 267-639-6644, vernickphilly.com

VILLAGE WHISKEY Jose Garces’ amalgam of swing-era ambience and Southern comfort food — with one of the best damn burgers in the city. 118 S. 20th St., 215-665-1088, villagewhiskey.com

CHAMBER ORCHESTRA OF PHILADELPHIA 1520 Locust St., 215-545-5451, chamberorchestra.org

HELIUM COMEDY CLUB Standup from well-known funny people. 2031 Sansom St., 215-496-9001, heliumcomedy.com

KIMMEL CENTER FOR THE PERFORMING ARTS The 2,500-seat theater is the queen bee on Broad Street. 300 S. Broad St., 215-893-1999, kimmelcenter.org

MUSIC

38

CITYGUIDE 2013 - 2014

CHRIS’ JAZZ CAFÉ Catch local and big-name acts almost every night of week at this venue and restaurant.

MÜTTER MUSEUM Horrify yourself at the College of Physicians’ famed museum of medical oddities — including the world’s largest colon. (Preserved.) 19

1421 Sansom St., 215-568-3131, chrisjazzcafe.com

S. 22nd St., 215-563-3737, collphyphil.org

THE CURTIS INSTITUTE OF MUSIC Curtis, a serious contender for best music

PHILADELPHIA ART ALLIANCE 251 S. 18th St., 215-545-4302, philartalliance.org

PLAYS & PLAYERS THEATER

pop culture. 1608 Pine St., 215-545-0963,

1714 Delancey Place, 215-735-0630, playsandplayers.org

omoionline.com

ROSENBACH MUSEUM & LIBRARY Houses rare books and manuscripts, with an extensive Maurice Sendak collection. 2008 Delancey Place, 215-732-1600, rosenbach.org

SHOPPING ANTHROPOLOGIE You know Urban Outfitters and Anthropologie are from Philly, right? 1801 Walnut St., 215-568-2114, anthropologie.com

BELLA TURKA Bold jewelry and stylish gifts. The Shops at Liberty Place, 1625 Chestnut St., 215-557-9050, bellaturka.com

SA VA Nearly everything in Sarah Van Aken’s boutique is made next door by locals. 1700 Sansom St., 215-587-0004, savafashion.com

SHOPS AT LIBERTY PLACE A smallish mall with a J.Crew, food court and flashback-inducing Claire’s jewelry store. 1625 Chestnut St., 215-851-9055, shopsatliberty.com

UBIQ Like Mecca for sneakerheads. See a bunch of dudes waiting in line on Walnut? It’s probably outside this store. 1509 Walnut St., 215-9880194, ubiqlife.com

WONDERLAND A smoke shop with a wealth of tobacco-related items. 2037 Walnut St., 215-561-1071, wonderlandphilly.com

HEALTH + EDUCATION THE FREE LIBRARY OF PHILADELPHIA The city’s centerpiece library has a first-rate reading/lecture series as well. 1901 Vine St., 215-686-5322, freelibrary.org

PHIIRST The Philadelphia Institute for Individual, Relational & Sex Therapy is a counseling, therapy and training center. 255 S. 17th St., Suite 2200, 267-519-0241, phiirst.com

BENJAMIN LOVELL SHOES The place for unique styles and brands. 119 S. 18th St., 215-546-4655, blshoes.com

BUFFALO EXCHANGE Bring your good-condition duds to trade for cash or store credit (they’re pretty choosy, though!), or buy someone else’s on the cheap. 1713 Chestnut St., 215-557-9850, buffaloexchange.com

THE DR. MARTENS STORE Self-explanatory! 1710 Walnut St., 215-545-

UNIVERSITY OF THE ARTS, DIVISION OF CONTINUING STUDIES The University of the Arts has a long tradition of innovation and creativity, including professional and adult programs and pre-college programs for K-12 students. 320 S. Broad St., 215-717-6006, cs.uarts.edu

PARKS + REC BREAKAWAY BIKES 1923 Chestnut St., 215-568-6002, breakawaybikes.com

HELLO WORLD Eye-catching and clever home goods and accessories that make great gifts. 257 S. 20th St.,

FRANKINSTIEN BIKEWORX Owner Jeff Harris, as “Doc Dirt,” was BFFs with the Dead Milkmen back in the day and members drop in from time to time. It’s a unique bike-repair experience. 1529 Spruce St.,

215-545-5207, shophelloworld.com

215-893-0415, frankinstienbikeworx.com

JOAN SHEPP A locally owned boutique for men’s and women’s designer duds. 1616 Walnut St., 215-

RITTENHOUSE SQUARE Undoubtedly the best spot for people-watching in Philadelphia. Just grab a bench and check out humanity. 18th and Walnut streets

2455, drmartens.com

735-2666, joanshepp.com

OMOI Clothing and accessories inspired by Japanese

SCHUYLKILL BANKS 25th and Locust streets, 215-222-6030 C I T Y PA P E R . N E T

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347 S. 13th St., 215-732-5010

FERGIE’S PUB ICANDY A newer, multi-level gay club with an extensive bar, drag shows, dancing and a roof deck. 254 S. 12th St., 267-324-3500, clubicandy.com

Chancellor St., 215-735-0735, sistersnightclub.com

TAVERN ON CAMAC The main floor is home to a popular piano bar. 243 S. Camac St., 215-545-0900, tavernoncamac.com

U BAR 1220 Locust St., 215-546-6660, ubarphilly.com

VOYEUR Gays flock to this LGBTQ-friendly afterhours club that hosts weekly events, drink specials and private parties. 1221 St. James St., 215-735-5772, voyeurnightclub.com

WOODY’S The most recognizable gay club in Philly. 202 S. 13th St., 215-545-1893, woodysbar.com

13TH STREET PIZZA Colloquially known as “Gay Pizza.” It’s one of the few places to get munchies after hours in the area, so the hordes stumbling out of the clubs after last call tend to end up here. 209 S. 13th St., 215-546-4453, 13thstreetpizza.com

AMÍS At Marc Vetri’s super sleek Roman-style trattoria, Sal’s Sunday prix-fixe is the way to go. 412 S. 13th St., 215-732-AMIS, amisphilly.com

BARBUZZO The Mediterranean-influenced menu touches on seafood (grilled octopus with piri piri oil; wood-roasted Portuguese sardines) plus housemade pastas, pizza and charcuterie. 110

game plus a sit-down dining room and wellcurated wine shop. 1111 Locust St., 215-574-

S. 13th St., 215-546-9300, barbuzzo.com

1099, garcestradingcompany.com

CAPOGIRO GELATO Quite possibly the best gelato in Philly, if not the world. The sea salt and Mexican chocolate are not to be missed. 119 S. 13th St., 215-351-

GREEN STREET COFFEE ROASTERS Locally roasted, smartly sourced joe from a pair of brothers with serious coffee cred. 1101

0900, capogirogelato.com

GARCES TRADING CO. The Iron Chef’s foray into the gourmet market

midtown village + gayborhood

SISTERS Karaoke, theme parties and movie screenings keep this LGBTQ (but primarily L) bar busy. 1320

THE HOODS

1214 Sansom St., 215-928-8118, fergies.com

RESTAURANTS + MARKETS

Spruce St., greenstreetcoffee.com

JAMONERA Spanish tapas with an extensive selection of wines, sherries and vermouths. 105 S. 13th St.,

C I T Y PA P E R . N E T

41

215-922-6061, jamonerarestaurant.com THE HOO D S

LAST DROP This coffee shop is a historical hangout for future big names in the Philly music scene.

midtown village + gayborhood

1300 Pine St., 215-893-9262, thelastdropcoffeehouse.com

MIXTO These guys make a mean mojito. 1141 Pine St., 215-592-0363, mixtorestaurante.com

OPA Modern Greek cuisine in the front, happening beer garden in the back. 1311 Sansom St., 215545-0170, opaphiladelphia.com

SAMPAN 124 S. 13th St., 215-732-3501, sampanphilly.com

VEDGE Next-level vegan cuisine with killer cocktails and wine. Leave all preconceived notions about meat-less dining at the door. 1221 Locust St., 215-320-7500, vedgerestaurant.com

VETRI Marc Vetri’s eponymous restaurant is still one of the hottest tickets in town. 1312 Spruce St., 215-732-3478, vetriristorante.com

42

CITYGUIDE 2013 - 2014

ZAVINO At Zavino’s polished, narrow space, check out pies like the polpettini (red sauce, provolone, mini veal meatballs) or the Joey (Berkshire pork sausage, crushed tomato, chili flakes, garlic). 112 S. 13th St., 215-732-2400, zavino.com

ARTS + CULTURE ACADEMY OF MUSIC Its lush, red-and-gold stage hosts, among others, Opera Philadelphia, the Pennsylvania Ballet and traveling Broadway shows. 240 S. Broad St., 215-893-1999, academyofmusic.com

GERSHMAN Y This former YMHA hosts gallery exhibits, film screenings, family programming and even the occasional basement-swimming-pool dance performance. 401 S. Broad St., 215-545-

— the main space is big enough to hold the Philadelphia Orchestra, with smaller space for chamber operas, plays, etc. 300 S. Broad St.,

4400, gershmany.org

215-670-2300, kimmelcenter.org

GIOVANNI’S ROOM An LGBTQ bookstore with a long community history that holds regular events. 345 S.

LUCKY STRIKE Fancy bowling with plenty of drinks. 1336

12th St., 215-923-2960, giovannisroom.com

KIMMEL CENTER The city’s biggest performing arts venue

Chestnut St., 215-545-2741, bowlluckystrike.com

SUZANNE ROBERTS THEATRE Home of the Philadelphia Theatre Company, which has an admirable dedication to local

premieres and new work. 480 S. Broad St., 215985-0420, philadelphiatheatrecompany.org

Spruce St., 215-732-2220, waygay.org

1004 Pine St., 215-545-7060, shophelloworld.com

KITCHENETTE Stock up on everything from stainless steel barware to frilly aprons and specialty foods. 117 S. 12th St., 215-829-4949, shopkitchenette.com

INDUSTRY An eye-popping assortment of home wares, jewelry and Mid-Century home furnishings.

wilmatheater.org

1020 Pine St., 215-733-0208, shophelloworld.com

SHOPPING

OPEN HOUSE For those obsessed with Apartment Therapy.

BEREKET International imports from Chinese chests and life-sized buddhas to Persian rugs. 1032

MITCHELL & NESS NOSTALGIA CO. Vintage sportsball apparel. 1201 Chestnut St.,

delphia.com

Pine St., 215-278-2232, bbereket.com

267-273-7622, mitchellandness.com

PARKS + REC

DOGGIE STYLE For your more fashion-forward furry friends. Don’t mind the name. 114 S. 13th St., 215-545-

ROW HOME Furniture made from repurposed materials designed for small-space living. 113 S. 12th St.,

12TH STREET GYM The gym that launched a thousand Missed Connections. 204 S. 12th St., 215-985-4092,

4100, doggiestylepets.com

267-239-0254, shoprowhome.com

12streetgym.com

EMILIE

VERDE Specializing in plants and boutique choco-

LOUIS I. KAHN MEMORIAL PARK

113 S. 12th St., 215-829-8830, shopemilie.com

107 S. 13th St., 215-922-1415, openhouseliving.com

lates. 108 S. 13th St., 215-546-8700, verdephila-

midtown village + gayborhood

THE WILMA THEATER Offbeat, imaginative shows that tend to keep audiences thinking and talking after the curtain falls. 265 S. Broad St., 215-893-9456,

THE HOODS

WILLIAM WAY COMMUNITY CENTER Provides counseling and all-ages programming for the LGBTQ community — along with occasional great classical concerts. 1315

HELLO HOME If your aesthetic includes Egg chairs and Eames loungers, you’ll feel right at home.

1119 Pine St., kahnpark.tripod.com

C I T Y PA P E R . N E T

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old city/society hill/ south street east/ washington square west

“Old City is such a pet-friendly neighborhood and we love being here. I’m pretty sure almost every person has either visited the Adoption Center or adopted from us. If you haven’t, come and say hello!”

photos by Neal Santos

— Allison Lamond and Ame Wiltzius, staff members, PAWS

old city+society hill+south street east+washington square west hobble home on the cobblestones.

THERE’S HISTORY IN east Center City, whether it’s the Liberty Bell or the remnants of South Street’s bohemian roots. Old City sits on top between Front and Sixth, Spring Garden and Walnut; Society Hill and Washington Square West are stacked below it on the east and west sides, with a southern boundary of commercial South Street. Old City by day is full of tourists and Revolutionary-costumed guides; by night, it’s a rowdy, drunken party as bachelorette parties get their heels stuck in the cobblestones. Here and on South, prepare to deal with the wasted when bar-hopping on weekends. Washington Square West and Society Hill, more residential and expensive, can be thought of as the refined, slightly embarrassed elder sisters of the party girls screaming, “Woo!” 44

CITYGUIDE 2013 - 2014

while you’re here … • Scoop the old-fashioned style and elaborate sundaes at Franklin Fountain • Eat the fried sous vide burger at Morgan’s Pier and watch the trains go over Ben Franklin Bridge • Window-shop your way through the Third Street boutiques north of Market • Ogle the trash-to-treasure aesthetic of Isaiah Zagar’s Magic Gardens mosaic/habitat • Travel the Old City gallery circuit on First Friday, but go easy on that free wine, OK?

you should know … The Old City District (oldcitydistrict.org) is a great go-to website for resident and visitor info; The South Street Headhouse District (southstreet.com)

provides a comprehensive business directory. The district is represented by First District Councilman Mark Squilla (215-686-3458). Fun fact: Over the bridge in West Philly, South Street goes by its original name, Cedar Street.

explore …

BARS + CLUBS

TATTOOED MOM This dive augments its weird-grandma’sparlor décor with a friendly staff and cheap drinks. 530 South St., 215-238-9880

RESTAURANTS + MARKETS

L’ETAGE If you want to dance but want a chiller vibe than Old City, this is a good place to go. And there’s crepes downstairs! 624 S. Sixth St., 215-

AMADA Tapas with a touch of style, combining traditional dishes with innovative techniques. 217

592-0656, creperie-beaumonde.com

MAC’S TAVERN This bar, owned by married It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia stars Rob McElhenney and Kaitlin Olson, does not serve milk steak. 226 Market St., 267-324-5507, macstavern.com

NATIONAL MECHANICS 22 S. Third St., 215-701-4883, nationalmechanics.com

BISTROT LA MINETTE An enchanting Francophilian restaurant that should delight anyone in search of le refuge. 623 S. Sixth St., 215-925-8000, bistrotlaminette.com

BLACKBIRD Philly-inspired pizzas and sandwiches that are 100 percent vegan and kosher. 507 S. Sixth St., 215-625-6660, blackbirdpizzeria.com

BUDDAKAN Stephen Starr’s Buddakan provides a glam backdrop for the young and the restless and all who appreciate delicious Pan-Asian fare.

0

SUGAR’S Drink prices here are a practice in fairness, as is the dirt-cheap “AZZ basket” of various fried stuff. 225 Church St., 215-925-8219, myspace.

Chestnut St., 215-625-2450, amadarestaurant.com

YO PHILLY!

COME ENJOY HEALTHY MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE

FRESH, AUTHENTIC, MOUTHWATERING MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE WILL HAVE YOUR PALATE DANCING!

325 Chestnut St., 215-574-9440, buddakan.com

THE CONTINENTAL Ever had a Tang cocktail? You can, now, here. 138 Market St., 215-923-6069, continentalmartinibar.com

COOPERAGE Wine, whiskey and Southern food. 123 S. Seventh St., 215-226-2667, cooperagephilly.com

FAMOUS 4TH STREET DELICATESSEN Nobody knows Jewish-Euro noshing like this

SOCIETY HILL LOAN

P H I L LY ’ S PA W N S H O P SELL & BUY GOLD & SILVER

Collectibles, Antiques, Musical Instruments, Cameras, Electronics

TUESDAY-SUNDAY

Check Cashing – Money Orders Money Gram Agent Confidential Loans

SOUTH STREET SOUVLAKI

We Buy Gift Cards And Anything Of Value

509 SOUTH STREET, PHILADELPHIA. 215.925.3026

old city + society hill + s. street east + wash sq. west

passpub.com

THE HOODS

KHYBER PASS PUB This once-storied music venue recently reinvented itself as a Southern-styled comfortfoodery, still keeping a strong focus on the brews. 56 S. Second St., 215-238-5888, khyber-

com/sugarmoms

645 S ou th S tr e et , P hi ladel phi a. 21 5- 9 25- 7 35 7 C I T Y PA P E R . N E T

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deli just south of South. Average-sized stomachs go home with literal quarts of leftovers. THE HOO D S

700 S. Fourth St., 215-922-3274

FORK

old city + society hill + s. street east + wash sq. west

306 Market St., 215-625-9425, forkrestaurant.com

SOUTH STREET SOUVLAKI Healthy Mediterranean from a place that’s been on South Street since Dead Milkmen roamed it. 509 South St., 215-925-3026 TALULA’S GARDEN

INDEPENDENCE HALL The building where the Declaration of Independence and Constitution were signed, and where the Liberty Bell now hangs out. Sixth and Market streets, nps.gov/inde

LOCKS GALLERY

FRANKLIN FOUNTAIN The Franklin Fountain is a throwback corner ice cream saloon in Old City, frequently staffed by guys with old-timey mustaches. 116

210 W. Washington Square, 215-592-7787, talulasgarden.com

WEDGE + FIG This cheese bistro packs its menu with light lunch items and sweet treats. 160 N. Third St.,

Market St., 215-627-1899, franklinfountain.com

215-238-1716, wedgeandfig.com

HOT DIGGITY

XOCHITL

NATIONAL CONSTITUTION CENTER The actual Constitution does not live here — it’s in D.C. — but if you try hard enough, you can get the hologram Ben Franklin to start talking about how much he loves the ladies.

630 South St., 267-886-9253 thehotdiggity.com

408 S. Second St., 215-238-7280, xochitlphilly.com

HAN DYNASTY Han Dynasty considers proper Szechuan spicing its raison d’être. Soon to move to bigger digs across the street. 108 Chestnut St., 215-922-

ZAHAV Small plates like raw ground lamb punched up with allspice or a flavorful Moroccan-style chicken stew; the hummus is absurd. 237 St.

1888, handynasty.net

James Place, 215-625-8800, zahavrestaurant.com

MUSIC AKA MUSIC Vinyl, plus the occasional well-curated instore set. 27 N. Second St., 215-922-3855, aka-

600 Washington Sq., 215-629-1000, locksgallery.com

525 Arch St., 215-409-6600, constitutioncenter.org

NATIONAL MUSEUM OF AMERICAN JEWISH HISTORY 101 S. Independence Mall East, 215-923-3811, nmajh.org

OLDE CITY TATTOO 44 S. Second St., 215-627-6271, oldecitytattoo.com

PAGEANT : SOLOVEEV 607 Bainbridge St., 215-925-1535, pageantsoloveev.com

THE LEGENDARY DOBBS

PHILADELPHIA EDDIE’S TATTOO A South Street stalwart since 1952, open noon to midnight. 621 S. Fourth St., 215-922-

304 South St., 215-501-7288, dobbsphilly.com

7384, philadelphiaeddiestattoo.com

musicphilly.com

REPO RECORDS 538 South St., 215-627-3775, reporecords.com

TIN ANGEL The archetypical place to see flowy-clothed people with acoustic guitars. 20 S. Second St., KANELLA The Cypriot menu is based around gimmickfree simplicity: organic, free-range meats, from quail and rabbit to lamb and goat, plus locally sourced fish daily. 1001 Spruce St., 215-

215-928-0770, tinangel.com

THE TLA Audiences cram into this thousand-seat South Street mainstay to see national acts. 334 South St., 215-922-1011, tlaphilly.com

922-1773, kanellarestaurant.com

LITTLE FISH Once voted one of the top three seafood restaurants in America. 746 S. Sixth St., 267-4550127, littlefishbyob.com

MORIMOTO 723 Chestnut St., 215-413-9070, morimotorestaurant.com

OLD CITY COFFEE 221 Church St., 215-629-9292, oldcitycoffee.com

PERCY STREET BARBECUE Aside from brisket, Percy’s does pork spare ribs, pork belly, chicken and a killer sausage.

46

ARTS + CULTURE ARDEN THEATRE CO. The only one of the big three nonprofit theaters in the city not on Broad Street is a good place to go see some Sondheim. 40 N. Second St., 215-922-1122, ardentheatre.org

CHEMICAL HERITAGE FOUNDATION If this sounds boring, they frequently have cooler exhibits than the name would suggest. If it sounds great, you will love it. 315 Chestnut St., 215-925-2222, chemheritage.org

THE CLAY STUDIO

900 South St., 215-625-8510, percystreet.com

139 N. Second St., 215-925-3453, theclaystudio.org

PIZZERIA STELLA

GALLERY JOE

215 Lombard St., 215-320-8000, pizzeriastella.net

302 Arch St., 215-592-7752, galleryjoe.com

CITYGUIDE 2013 - 2014

PHILADELPHIA’S MAGIC GARDENS You’ll see patches of Isaiah Zagar’s distinctive tile work all over this whole area, but the massive mosaic/walkable sculpture/environment/playground that is the Magic Gardens is ground zero. Take your visiting relatives here after they get bored of the Liberty Bell. 1020 South St., 215-733-0390, phillymagicgardens.org

PAINTED BRIDE ART CENTER 230 Vine St., 215-925-9914, paintedbride.org

SOCIETY HILL PLAYHOUSE 507 S. Eighth St., 215-923-0210, societyhillplayhouse.org

LOST + FOUND

407 Bainbridge St., 215-592-0119, shubintheatre.com

133 N. Third St., 215-928-1311

WALNUT STREET THEATRE The oldest theater in the country, and still one of the most successful. 825 Walnut St., 215-5743550, walnutstreettheatre.org

PASSIONAL + SEXPLORATORIUM Get your freak on. 317 South St., 215-829-4986, passionalboutique.com

PHILLY AIDS THRIFT All proceeds go straight to local HIV/AIDS charities. 710 S. Fifth St., 215-922-3186, phillyaidsthrift.com

ART IN THE AGE Artist-made T-shirts, playful dresses and Old World-inspired bags abound at this old-school boutique/gallery space. 116 N. Third St., 215922-2600, artintheage.com

BENJAMIN LOVELL SHOES 318 South St., 215-238-1969, blshoes.com

SMAK PARLOUR 219 Market St., 215-625-4551, smakparlour.com

SOCIETY HILL LOAN 645 South St., 215-925-7357, societyhillmoneyloan.com

SUGARCUBE 124 N. Third St., 215-238-0825, sugarcube.us

BOOK TRADER

THREE SIRENS BOUTIQUE

7 N. Second St., 215-925-2080

BRAVE NEW WORLDS Friendliest comic-sellers around. 55 N. Second St., 215-925-6525, bravenewworldscomics.com

EAST RIVER BANK 36 N. Third St., 215-923-4860, eastriverbank.com

134 N. Third St., 215-925-3548, threesirens.com

THIRD STREET HABIT BOUTIQUE 153 N. Third St., 215-925-5455, thirdstreethabit.com

vagabondboutique.com

PARKS + REC FRANKLIN SQUARE Awkward to get to, but hidden among the overpasses, there’s a carousel, mini golf and SquareBurgers. 200 N. Sixth St., 215-629-4026, historicphiladelphia.org

VAGABOND BOUTIQUE

WASHINGTON SQUARE PARK

37 N. Third St., 267-671-0737,

210 W. Washington Square, 215-965-2305

old city + society hill + s. street east + wash sq. west

SHOPPING

THE HOODS

SHUBIN THEATRE

â&#x20AC;˘ E VERYDAY E VE NTS â&#x20AC;˘ ;=<2/GA 6:30pm to close $3.50 select Microbrew bottles (over 20) & $3 All Yuengling bottle products Ollieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Texas Holdâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;em Poker 7:45pm 2nd Floor (PRIZES) Quizzo 8:30pm 1st Floor (PRIZES)

BC3A2/GA 6:30pm to close $3.50 bottles Corona,Corona Light,Dos Equis Amber & Lager $3.50 Margaritas/$5 nachos,quesadillas,burritos,tacos - Tequila shot specials Quizzo w/Johnny Goodtimes 8pm 1st Floor (PRIZES)

E32<3A2/GA 6:30pm to close $3 Old School Domestic Bottles and Drafts Ollieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Texas Holdâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;em Poker 7:45pm 2nd Floor (PRIZES)

B6C@A2/GA BUCKET OF PONIES NIGHT. 6:30pm to close 6 for $7 miller lite,miller high life,rolling rock,corona

4@72/GA $3 Miller Bottle Products ALL DAY Karaoke 10pm 2nd floor

A/BC@2/GA $3 Bud Bottle Products ALL DAY. DJ 10pm 2nd floor

AC<2/GA 9am to 6:30pm $3.50 mimosas,bloody marys and $3 miller lite drafts 6:30pm to close $3.50 Drafts Stella,Guinness,Heineken and Heineken Light bottle 50 cent wings (minimum order of 10) Karaoke 7pm 2nd floor AB/@B7<5A3>B3;03@ !, we will be doing $7.00 pitchers of Miller Lite Draft all the time

-- KITCHEN OPEN TIL 1am EVERYDAY -- HAPPY HOUR Monday-Friday 4:30pm to 6:30pm -- PATIO OPEN (Great for outdoor gatherings) -- SERVING BREAKFAST SANDWICHES Sat/Sun till 3pm -- WE HAVE MOST SPORTS PACKAGES NO MATTER WHAT TEAM YOU ROOT FOR -- PLENTY OF TVS ON 1ST AND 2ND FLOORS -- PARTY ROOMS AVAILABLE FOR LARGE AND SMALL PARTIES (There is no room charges) -- PARKING DISCOUNTS -- SHOWING SOCCER GAMES -- WE HAVE SEASONAL CRAFT DRAFTS ON SPECIAL EVERYDAY for $3.50 and $5

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C I T Y PA P E R . N E T

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NEW WAVE CAFE A friendly, low-key neighborhood bar with a mild sports theme. 784 S. Third St., 215-922-

GRINDCORE HOUSE The coffee’s delicious, the baked goods are vegan and the soundtrack is metal. 1515 S.

Southern food on the plate. 1400 S. Columbus

8484, newwavecafe.com

Fourth St., 215-839-3333, grindcorehouse.com

O’NEAL’S PUB

SHOPPING

RESTAURANTS + MARKETS

INTERNATIONAL SMOKELESS BBQ Tucked away in the New World Shopping Plaza, this place is a meat-lover’s Eden. $16 gets you a plate of unlimited meat for DIY at-the-table grilling and all the side sauces you can squeeze on your plate. 600 Washington

BLUE BELLY BBQ

Ave., 215-599-8844

KENNETT This sustainability-focused spot brings a creative edge to the neighborhood food scene. 848 S. Second St., 267-687-1426, kennettrestaurant.com

PHILADELPHIA JAVA CO. This La Colombe brewer is dog-friendly and offers free wifi for the study-buddy crowd. Try the hot apple cider in winter. 852 S. Second St., 215-339-8248

SHOT TOWER COFFEE Across the street from the actual shot tower, where to get your Stumptown-coffee fix. 542

brickbatbooks.com

BUS STOP Smack in the middle of Fabric Row, this is one of the few places in town to get the new Jeffrey Campbells. 727 S. Fourth St., 215-627-2357, busstopboutique.com

FABRIC ROW An abundance of fabric and findings stores forming the heart of the historical textile district. They tend to keep weird hours, so call ahead to make sure the store you want to visit will be open. Fourth Street between Bainbridge

queen village + pennsport

600 Catharine St., 215-238-0615, bluebellybbq.com

BRICKBAT BOOKS A great curated selection of used and new books — a lot tidier than the average usedbook store. 709 S. Fourth St., 215-592-1207,

THE HOODS

611 S. Third St., 215-574-9495, onealspub.com

Blvd., 215-462-2000, warmdaddys.com

and Catharine

Christian St., 267-886-8049, shottowercoffee.com

VILLAGE BELLE Delectably fresh Mediterranean fare. 757 S. Front St., 215-551-2200, thevillagebelle.com

CATAHOULA BAR AND RESTAURANT Cajun and Creole food for the soul. Drink the Abita, it’s the only way to go. 775 S. Front St., 215-271-9300, catahoularestaurant.com

DMITRI’S The perfect BYOB for flawless seafood — cash only and it doesn’t take reservations, but it’s worth the trouble. 795 S. Third St., 215625-0556, dmitrisrestaurant.com

ESSENE MARKET + CAFÉ Providing organic and gluten-free grub for this hood’s vegan and hippie sets. 719 S. Fourth St., 215-922-1146, essenemarket.com

FEDERAL DONUTS The business plan is simple: offer three highly addictive foods — coffee, doughnuts and fried chicken — and make them better than anything you’ve ever tasted. 1219 S. Second St., 267-687-8258, federaldonuts.com

FOR PETE’S SAKE A cozy Queen Village neighborhood pub. 900 S. Front St., 215-462-2230, forpetessakepub.com

ARTS + CULTURE MUMMERS MUSEUM A museum space dedicated to celebrating one of Philly’s strangest traditions, the New Year’s display of South Philly masculinity in all its glittery, feathered dancing glory. 1100 S. Second St., 215-336-3050, mummersmuseum.com

RIVERVIEW PLAZA THEATER A wide-release theater known for the, uh, liveliness of its audiences. 1400 S. Columbus Blvd., 215-755-2353, regmovies.com

SIMPATICO THEATRE PROJECT Classic, contemporary and new theater for social change. 850 S. Second St., 215-423-0254, simpaticotheatre.org

MUSIC DIGITAL FERRET One of the few specialty music stores left, here’s where to go to get your gothic, industrial and electronic music. 732 S. Fourth St., 215-925-

GOLOSA CHOCOLATE BAR & DESSERT LOUNGE

9259, digital-ferret.com

806 S. Sixth St., 215-925-1003, golosacafe.com

SETTLEMENT MUSIC SCHOOL

GOOEY LOOIES The biggest and occasionally best hoagies around. 231 McClellan St., 215-334-7668

416 Queen St., 215-320-2600, smsmusic.org

WARMDADDY’S Cool blues and jazz on the stage; hot soul and

PARKS + REC BICYCLE REVOLUTIONS 756 S. Fourth St., 215-629-2453, bicyclerevolutions.com

GLORIA DEI OLD SWEDES CHURCH A historic Episcopal church that hosts events, including the annual Swedish Advent pageant. Columbus Boulevard and Christian Street, 215-389-1513, old-swedes.org

JEFFERSON SQUARE PARK Frequently lined with great, cheap taco trucks such as Taco Loco. Fourth Street and Washington Avenue, jeffersonsquarepark.org

SHOT TOWER PLAYGROUND A playground and kids-only baseball field in the skinny shadow of the iconic historical structure, the first of its kind in America. Front and Carpenter streets, 215-685-1592, qvna.org C I T Y PA P E R . N E T

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GREEN AISLE GROCERY

Broad St., 215-278-7950, thedolphinphilly.com

1618 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-465-1411, greenaislegrocery.com

PUB ON PASSYUNK EAST 1501 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-755-5125, pubonpassyunkeast.com

RAY’S HAPPY BIRTHDAY BAR The best karaoke in the city on Friday nights.

GREEN EGGS CAFÉ 1306 Dickinson St., 215-226-EGGS, greeneggscafe.net

KHMER KITCHEN 1700 S. Sixth St., 215-755-2222

WATKINS DRINKERY Take a walk on the wild side with antelope shepherd’s pie and kangaroo nachos. 1712 S.

PAT’S KING OF STEAKS The Cheesesteak Capital of the Universe. 1237 E.

RESTAURANTS + MARKETS CANTINA LOS CABALLITOS 1651 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-755-3550, cantinaloscaballitos.com

DI BRUNO BROS Where cheese lovers go to die. Of happiness. 930 S. Ninth St., 215-922-2876, dibruno.com

EL GALLO PINTO 1163 S. Seventh St., 267-886-9803, ellgallopintophilly.com

Passyunk Ave., 215-468-1546, patskingofsteaks.com

PLAZA GARIBALDI Huitlacoche and Squash blossoms! Takeout! 935 Washington Ave., 215-922-2370, plazagaribaldiphilly.com

SHOPPING

SABRINA’S CAFÉ Arguably the best brunch in town. Almost certainly the longest wait. 910 Christian St.,

THE EXPRESSIVE HAND You know you miss doing arts-and-crafts projects. You can make stuff, paint stuff and use a pottery wheel — it’s BYOB, too. 622 S. Ninth

215-574-1599, sabrinascafe.com

STATESIDE 1536 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-551-2500, statesidephilly.com

TAQUERIA VERACRUZANA 908 Washington Ave., 215-465-1440

St., 267-519-2626, expressivehand.com

URBAN JUNGLE Creative ways to display greenery in an urban environment, particularly vertical ones. 1526

bella vista + italian market + east passyunk

1200 E. Passyunk St., thehappybirthdaybar.com

10th St., 215-339-0175, watkinsdrinkery.com

THE HOODS

better beer and a skinny-pants DJ. 1539 S.

E. Passyunk Ave., 215-468-3040, urbanjunglephila.com

C I T Y PA P E R . N E T

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— bring your own hand sanitizer. 1734 Snyder Ave., 215-462-0310

1311, bombbomb-restaurant.com

MELROSE DINER As anyone who grew up here can hum for you, “Everybody who knows ... goes to Melrose.” Because it’s open 24 hours, and sometimes you desperately need hash browns at 4 a.m. The first in the triumvirate of famous South Philly diners. 1501 Snyder Ave., 215-4676644, melrose-diner.com

NEW PHNOM PENH Homey food in a homely setting; known for their amazingly inexpensive pho-like but distinctly Cambodian noodle soup. 2301 S. Seventh St., 215-389-2122

OREGON DINER The second member of the South Philly diner triumvirate. 302 W. Oregon Ave., 215-462-5566, oregondinerphilly.com

PENROSE DINER The third member of the South Philly diner triumvirate. 2016 Penrose Ave., 215-465-1097,

454-5500, urbanoutfittersinc.com

south philly

BOMB BOMB BAR-B-Q This ribs joint was officially renamed in the ’90s to reflect its decades-old neighborhood name: Bomb Bomb. It had been called that for more than half a century, after two sets of explosives were detonated on the front steps in 1936, supposedly the work of local racketeers. Newspaper clippings recounting the bombings hang on the walls today. 1026 Wolf St., 215-463-

215-551-1245

URBN HQ The Navy Yard headquarters of URBN, the Philly-started and -based company behind Urban Outfitters, Anthropologie and Free People, is so beautifully renovated that it’s worth visiting at least once (luckily, they hold events open to the public every once in a while). Expect bitter visions of koi ponds, natural light, frolicking dogs and hundred-foottall ceilings to dance in your head upon your return to your sad cubicle. 5000 S. Broad, 215-

THE HOODS

RESTAURANTS + MARKETS

LOS GALLOS This LoMo (that’s Lower Moyamensing) newbie boasts incredibly cheap, incredibly delicious Mexican fare, from tacos and quesadillas to football-sized tortas. 951 Wolf St.,

PARKS + REC CITIZENS BANK PARK Home of the Phillies and occasional Springsteen concerts. 1 Citizens Bank Park Way, 215-463-1000, citizensbank.com/ballpark

FDR PARK Walk far enough, past all the greenery and down under the overpass, to find a truly amazing skate park designed with input from pro skaters, and occasionally visited by the Jackass crew. Broad and Pattison streets

penrosediner.com

CACIA’S This fourth-generation brick-oven bakery has expanded its franchise in recent years, but South Philly is still its home base. Grab a cannoli. 1526 W. Ritner St., 215-334-1340, caciabakery.com

GENNARO’S TOMATO PIE A ’40s-style BYOB pizzeria serving tomato pies, a Philly special in which the sauce goes over the cheese. They also have other great pies, most with a crispy thin crust. 1429 Jackson St., 215-462-5070, gennarostomatopie.com

JOHN’S ROAST PORK John’s cheesesteaks are coveted for a reason: The fresh rolls are key, but it’s really about the masterful folding of onions and cheese into the meat during grilling. 14 E. Snyder Ave., 215463-1951, johnsroastpork.com

LA ROSA PIZZERIA South Philly has a reputation for producing delicious pizzas that don’t conform to the American idea of what a pie looks like. La Rosa, right off the Snyder stop on the Broad Street subway line, makes square, Romanstyle pizza; their most famous varietal is a white pie with sliced potatoes and rosemary. 2106 S. Broad St., 215-271-5246

SKY CAFE It’s a trek from Center City, but the amount of great Indonesian you get for under $10 is worth it. 1540 W. Ritner St., 215-271-1983, skycafe215.com

TEXAS WIENERS Don’t giggle — this 90-year-old South Philly standby (“Texas” refers to the spicy chili plopped on top, not the state of origin) serves split hot dogs that will wipe that smirk right off your face. Try the secret-recipe “Greek Sauce,” so popular that it’s also sold wholesale for $3.25 a quart. 1426 Snyder Ave., 215-465-8635, texaswieners.com

TONY LUKE’S Self-styled renaissance man Tony Luke has dipped his toe into movies and music, but nothing draws a crowd like his cheesesteaks. 39 E. Oregon Ave., 215-551-5725, tonylukes.com

ARTS + CULTURE AMERICAN SWEDISH HISTORICAL MUSEUM Sure, it’s an odd location for a history museum, but that means the quirk factor is sufficiently amped: Expect everything from waffle parties to Swedish-language classes. 1900 Pattison Ave., 215-389-1776, americanswedish.org

LINCOLN FINANCIAL FIELD Home of the Eagles and some intense tailgating. The term “700 level,” still used in reference to the rowdiest, hardest-core sports fans, refers to the cheap upper-tier seats in the old Veterans Stadium (“The Vet” was torn down in 2004) — it’s ground zero for the origin of the reputation of Philly fans for getting drunk, throwing batteries at opposing teams and booing Santa Claus. (That happened, like, one time.) GO IGGLES! 1 NovaCare Way, 215339-6700, lincolnfinancialfield.com

WELLS FARGO CENTER When the Sixers and Flyers aren’t battling it out, the large indoor venue hosts big national acts like Ke$ha and Paul McCartney, plus twee-tastic tours like Glee! Live. 3601 S. Broad St., 215-389-9543 wellsfargocenterphilly.com C I T Y PA P E R . N E T

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SOUTH PHILADELPHIA TAP ROOM The SPTR hosts a cross-section of serious South Philly drinkers. 1509 Mifflin St., 215-

barbaras.com

271-7787, southphiladelphiataproom.com

BREW/ULTIMO COFFEE BAR This pleasant little two-fer offers artisanal coffee and takeout bottles of craft beer. 1900 S.

RESTAURANTS + MARKETS

GRACE TAVERN An impressive beer selection and delectable grub, not to mention its vintage beauty. 2229 Grays Ferry Ave., 215-893-9580, gracetavern.com

JET WINE BAR A nice change from the craft-beer culture. 1525 South St., 215-735-1116, jetwinebar.com

RESURRECTION ALE HOUSE 2425 Grays Ferry Ave., 215-735-2202, resurrectionalehouse.com

REX 1516 Classy, Southern-ish cusine. 1516 South St., 215-319-1366, rex1516.com

SIDECAR BAR & GRILLE A craft-brew draft selection and smarterthan-your-average-bar eats. 2201 Christian St., 215-732-3429, thesidecarbar.com

CIRCLES Cheap Thai for the masses. 1514 Tasker St., 267-387-1778, circlesnewbold.com

GOVINDA’S VEGETARIAN 1408 South St., 215-985-9303, govindasvegetarian.com

HARDENA Amazing, authentic, veggie-friendly, dirtcheap Indonesian food. 1754 S. Hicks St., 215271-9442, hardenas.com

JAMAICAN JERK HUT 1436 South St., 215-545-8644, jajerkhut.com

PUMPKIN A beacon of BYOB excellence. 1713 South St., 215-545-4448, pumpkinphilly.com

SAWATDEE That’s Thai for “hello.” 1501 South St., 215-790-

1299, sawatdeephilly.com

PARKS + REC BICYCLE THERAPY 2211 South St., 215-735-7849, bicycletherapy.com

JULIAN ABELE PARK 22nd and Carpenter streets, julianabelepark.org

MARIAN ANDERSON RECREATION CENTER 744 S. 17th St., 215-413-1318, mariananderson.org

grad hosp + grays ferry + point breeze + s. street w.

15th St., 215-339-5177, ultimocoffee.wordpress.com

THE HOODS

BOB & BARBARA’S LOUNGE Drag, jazz and a veritable PBR memorabilia museum. 1509 South St., 215-545-4511, boband-

great beer, wine & spirits Blackened Green Beans Bistro Salad • Fresh Chicken Salad • Fresh Burger on LeBus Brioche Bun • Jambalaya Oyster Po’Boy w/remoulade sauce • Fresh Sausage Sandwiches • Fresh Pomme Frites w/ Monk’s Bourbon Mayo

C I T Y PA P E R . N E T

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wall of luchador wrestling masks should tip you off to the fun, frenetic vibe at Jose Garces’ Mexican small-plater. 3945 Chestnut St., 215-

386-4600, newdecktavern.com

222-1657, distritorestaurant.com

RESTAURANTS + MARKETS 3421 Walnut St., 215-222-3710, artisseriebakery.com

HAN DYNASTY The first spinoff of the original Old City Szechuan restaurant has much more space and much better decor, but the same facescorching dedication to chili oil. 3711 Market St., 215-222-3711, handynasty.net

CAPOGIRO GELATO

KUNG FU HOAGIES One of the many lunch trucks that have branched out from bacon-egg-and-cheese, KFH serves vegan Vietnamese, notably the titular tofu banh mi. The truck migrates all over, but regularly shows up in University City for lunch during the school year. 38th

3925 Walnut St., 215-222-0252, capogirogelato.com

and Sansom streets, 267-344-6259, twitter.com/ kungfuhoagies

DESI CHAAT HOUSE A pan-South Asian comfort food, chaat is an array of savory snackies and condiments sold from street carts across the subcontinent. 501 S. 42nd

LOVERS AND MADMEN

BOBBY’S BURGER PALACE Bobby Flay’s burger joint tries to put a twist on everything, from sandwiches with chips on top to spiked milkshakes. 3925 Walnut St., 215-3870378, bobbysburgerpalace.com

St., 215-386-1999, desichaathouse.com

DISTRITO The hot-pink interior, VW-Beetle booth and

university city

ARTISSERIE CHOCOLATE CAFE

THE HOODS

NEW DECK TAVERN Guinness, bangers and mash and some of the toughest quizzo in town. 3408 Sansom St., 215-

28 S. 40th St., 215-243-9851, loversandmadmencoffee.com

MIZU A student favorite for its BYO policy (bring white wine or sake) and cheap takeout sushi. 111 S. 40th St., 215-382-1745, mizusushibar.com

POD There’s cheaper sushi just around the corner, but this Stephen Starr Asian-fusion restaurant is all about the fun atmosphere with its outrageous décor and glowing, color-shifting booths. 3636 Sansom St., 215-387-1803, podrestaurant.com

RIVAL BROS COFFEE A truck serving small-batch-roast coffees that taste extremely good. It’s usually at its Drexel campus spot until about 2 p.m., but you

C I T Y PA P E R . N E T

57

THE HOO D S

can make sure by stalking their GPS tracker online. 33rd and Arch streets, rivalbros.com

ARTS + CULTURE

SABRINA’S This third Sabrina’s outpost brought fancy French toast to an area sorely in need of brunch options. 227 N. 34th St., 215-222-1022,

3680 Walnut St., 215-898-3910, pennpresents.org

university city

sabrinascafe.com

WHITE DOG CAFÉ A long-standing figurehead in the fair-trade, organic and sustainable-business community. 3420 Sansom St., 215-386-9224, whitedog.com

MUSIC

ANNENBERG CENTER FOR THE PERFORMING ARTS

INTERNATIONAL HOUSE Originally a dorm for international Penn students, its Ibrahim Theater hosts some serious film-geek programming and live music, often of the experimental kind. 3701 Chestnut St., 215-387-5125, ihousephilly.org

INSTITUTE OF CONTEMPORARY ART 118 S. 36th St., 215-898-7108, icaphila.org

THE BLOCKLEY Hosting a mix of jam bands, reggae and hiphop. 3801 Chestnut St., 215-222-1234, theblock-

KELLY WRITERS HOUSE Penn’s self-run center for writing hosts music performances, seminars and book readings.

ley.com

3805 Locust Walk, 215-746-7636, writing.upenn. edu/wh

LEONARD PEARLSTEIN GALLERY Drexel’s recently opened URBN annex, which houses its Westphal design school, houses a much-enlarged, well-curated gallery space. Check out the building while you’re there, too; it’s gorgeous all on its own. 3401 Filbert St., 215-895-2548, drexel.edu

LOCUST MOON COMICS Aside from just selling comics (including a great selection of local artists and writers), Locust Moon hosts drink-and-draw events, classes, talks and film screenings. 34 S. 40th St., 267-403-2856, locustmoon.com

REDCAP’S CORNER Catering to all your orc-related needs. Regular tabletop and card games every night of the week. 3617 Lancaster Ave., 215-387-4040, redcapscorner.com

URBAN OUTFITTERS The founding spot of the (still Philly-based) URBN empire. 110 S. 36th St., 215-387-6990, urbanoutfitters.com

WEST PHILADELPHIA LOCKSMITH CO. You will inevitably lock yourself out of your apartment or lose the keys to your U-lock. These guys rescue you cheaply and quickly. 31 S. 42nd St., 215-386-2929, westphillylock.com

PARKS + REC DOCTOR CYCLES 3608 Lancaster Ave., 215-823-6780, doctorcycles.com

SLOUGHT FOUNDATION Exhibitions and events focused on contemporary art and architecture that explore cultural conflicts and social activism. 4017 Walnut St., 215-701-4627, slought.org

PILAM The hippest Penn fraternity house of them all doubles as an occasional venue. Keep your ear to the ground. 3914 Spruce St., 201-452-0330 THE ROTUNDA This transformed church hosts a steady diet of community events along with films, plays, dance performances and live music. 4014 Walnut St., 215-573-3234, therotunda.org

WORLD CAFÉ LIVE Enjoy local and big-name artists from all genres as well as open-mic nights and concerts for kids at this two-floor venue. Be on the lookout for free events. 3025 Walnut St., 215222-1400, worldcafelive.com

WXPN Broadcast out of the World Cafe Live building, Penn’s listener-supported radio station, 88.5, plays actual diverse music, hosts free Friday-afternoon shows by surprisingly big acts and throws the annual XPoNential music festival in the summer. 3025 Walnut St., 215898-6677, xpn.org 58

CITYGUIDE 2013 - 2014

PENN MUSEUM An immense collection of cultural-heritage artifacts. 3260 South St., 215-898-4000, penn. museum

SHOPPING AVRIL 50 The little newsstand/coffee shop/tabac that could, for nearly three decades. Proprieter John is always dapper and willing to help you find whatever fancy or European thing you need in his small, stuffed-to-the-brim shop — Italian Vogue, obscure literary journals, really good coffee, 99% dark chocolate. Banh mi, sometimes, too. 3406 Sansom St., 215-2226108, avril50.com

GREENE STREET CONSIGNMENT 3734 Spruce St., 215-662-0332, greenestreet.com

HOUSE OF OUR OWN This old Victorian home that’s been converted into a used bookstore is located right off Penn’s campus, and it has an Ivy League-quality selection of academic books. Claustrophobics beware; everyone else, browse for hours. 3920 Spruce St., 215-222-1576

DREXEL PARK A park with an amazing view of the city. Toss a frisbee or get hypnotized by the lights on the Cira Center across the river. 300 N. 32nd St., 215-243-4191, universitycity.org

KESWICK CYCLE Friendly and distinctly lacking in macho bikeshop-guy posturing. 4040 Locust St., 215-3970555, keswickcycle.com

NEIGHBORHOOD BIKE WORKS 3916 Locust Walk, 215-386-0316, neighborhoodbikeworks.org

PENN PARK Lots of open-to-the-public sports fields here. 3100 South St., 215-898-3052, upenn.edu

west/southwest philly

“I love living in the city without feeling cramped. My neighborhood has trees, space and friendly neighbors.”

photos by Neal Santos

— Andrew Olson, founder, Farm 51

west+ southwest philly hippies, hipsters and hip-hoppers.

THE LINE BETWEEN University City and West Philly is blurry, and changes every year as Penn and Drexel push outward. Imagine, then, a bike ride: Starting at University Avenue, head southwest on Baltimore until you hit Clark Park at 43rd. (Beware the trolley tracks!) Head north on 43rd until you hit Powelton Avenue, then hang a right and keep going until you hit the Spring Garden Bridge. We’ll call the vast area that was to the left of your handlebars West and Southwest Philly. These are mostly historically AfricanAmerican neighborhoods that have recently absorbed thousands of students and immigrants, bringing an array of cuisines, particularly African, Caribbean and Middle Eastern. The wide, tree-lined streets are welcoming, but be cautious — the farther you get from campus, the less you should, say, walk around with your earbuds in at night.

• Ride the El all the way out to 69th Street to fully experience Steve “ESPO” Powers’ A Love Letter for You mural series along the train tracks

you should know … West Philly is represented by Third District Councilwoman Jannie Blackwell (215-686-3418). Kenyatta Johnson (215-686-3412) runs the Second District, which extends to Southwest Philly.

explore …

BARS + CLUBS DAHLAK Out-of-this-world Eritrean fare, plus a backyard bar where all walks of life intersect. 4708 Baltimore Ave., 215-726-6464, dahlakrestaurant.com

DOCK STREET BREWING CO.

while you’re here …

701 S. 50th St., 215-726-2337, dockstreetbeer.com

• Hang out bohemian-style in Clark Park and shop the Saturday farmers’ market • Bike up to explore the enormous Fairmount Park — sort of a non-central Central Park

FIUME This convivial second-floor bar is known for its C I T Y PA P E R . N E T

59

THE HOO D S

west/southwest philly 60

siniarestaurantpa.com

Walnut St., 215-921-2135, manakeeshcafe.com

BROWN SUGAR BAKERY & CAFE Trinidad and Tobago via storefront takeout — don’t miss the curry roti the size of small footballs. 219 S. 52nd St., 215-727-9692

MARIGOLD KITCHEN

CHILI SZECHUAN Take their “spicy” seriously. 4626 Baltimore

4824 Baltimore Ave., 215-729-2121, mariposa.coop

Ave., 215-662-0888, chiliszechuanphilly.com

FU-WAH MINI MARKET Their tofu hoagies (banh mi) make fans, vegetarian and otherwise, positively evangelical. 810 S. 47th St., 215-729-2993

amazing selection of whiskies and weekly bluegrass nights. 229 S. 45th St.

H MART Take the El to the end of the line for this amazing pan-Asian food court and grocery. 7052 Terminal Square, 610-734-1001, hmart.com

501 S. 45th St., 215-222-3699, marigoldkitchenbyob.com

MARIPOSA FOOD CO-OP MILK & HONEY MARKET This gourmet market sells local products from artisanal cheeses to, yes, honey. 4435 Baltimore Ave., 215-387-6455, milkandhoneymarket.com

MOOD CAFÉ Indian food, chaat and 30 different flavors of lassi. Not familiar? Just ask Hassan. 4618 Baltimore Ave., 215-925-5080, phillymoodcafe.com

SATELLITE CAFÉ 701 S. 50th St., 215-729-1211

LOCAL 44

KAFFA CROSSING

4333 Spruce St., 215-222-2337, local44beerbar.com

4423 Chestnut St., 215-386-0504, kaffacrossing.com

RESTAURANTS + MARKETS

LITTLE BABY’S ICE CREAM The second outpost of the Fishtown company known for its wild flavors. 4903 Catherine St.,

ABYSSINIA Ethiopian and Eritrean food: Try the garlicky doro wat. 229 S. 45th St., 215-387-2424, abys-

215-921-2100, littlebabysicecream.com

MUSIC

MANAKEESH CAFÉ Discover the glories of “Lebanese pizza.” 4420

GREEN LINE CAFÉ The local coffee-shop chain sprang from

CITYGUIDE 2013 - 2014

SOLEIL DE MINUIT The only established Malian restaurant in Philly, with entrées like tender lamb chops and blackened whole tilapia. 5148 Locust St., 215-220-8623

215-222-3431, greenlinecafe.com

215-546-7900, manncenter.org

THE MARVELOUS! A purveyor of records that’s perfect for the jazz junkie. 4916 Baltimore Ave., 215-386-6110 MILLCREEK TAVERN

4740 Baltimore Ave., 215-525-1350, curiotheatre.org

STUDIO 34 Not just yoga: Studio 34 hosts dance parties, art exhibits and workshops, too. 4522 Baltimore Ave., 215-387-3434, studio34yoga.com

SHOPPING THE SECOND MILE Thrifty nickels, here’s your spot. 214 S. 45th St., 215-662-1663, secondmilecenter.com VIX EMPORIUM Handmade goods by locals. 5009 Baltimore Ave., 215-471-7700, vixemporium.com

4200 Chester Ave., 215-222-1255

TOWER THEATER Technically in Upper Darby, it hosts big-name acts — think the Pixies, Primus and Interpol. 19

west/southwest philly

MANN CENTER FOR THE PERFORMING ARTS The big outdoor summer venue where one might see the 1812 Overture with fireworks or a high-profile reunion tour. Bring wine and a picnic blanket for the lawn. 5201 Parkside Ave.,

CURIO THEATRE CO. THE HOODS

this spot across the street from Clark Park; they often host local performers, open mics, comedy and art shows. 4239 Baltimore Ave.,

PARKS + REC

FIREHOUSE BICYCLES 701 S. 50th St., 215-727-9692, firehousebicycles.com

BARTRAM’S GARDEN

PHILADELPHIA ZOO

54th Street and Lindbergh Boulevard, 215-7295281, bartramsgarden.org

3400 W. Girard Ave., 215-243-1100, philadelphiazoo.org.

THE A-SPACE Anarchy in the W.P.! Also, yoga. 4722 Baltimore

CLARK PARK The weekend destination for farmers’ markets, music, dogs, kids, crafts, drum circles, seeing, being seen ... 43rd Street and Chester

SIMEONE AUTOMOTIVE MUSEUM Over 60 beautifully preserved racecars from 1909 on up; on the last Saturday of the month, they take a few out for a spin. 6825 Nortwitch

Ave., 215-821-6877, the-aspace.org

Avenue, 215-683-3679, friendsofclarkpark.org

Dr., 215-365-7233, simeonemuseum.org

S. 69th St., 610-352-2887, tower-theatre.com

ARTS + CULTURE

31 South 42nd Street Philadelphia, PA 19104

(215) 386-2929 www.westphillylock.com 24 HOUR EMERGENCY SERVICE Serving West Philadelphia Center City & Surrounding Areas Residential • Commercial • Auto Locks Installed & Repaired • Safes C I T Y PA P E R . N E T

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dinners to Philadelphia’s hungry, curry-craving work force. 7105 Emlen St., 215-242-3656,

RESTAURANTS + MARKETS

tiffin.com

HIGH POINT CAFÉ The social hub of “West Mount Airy,” famous for its espresso and pastries. 602 Carpenter Lane, INFUSION: A COFFEE AND TEA GALLERY Coffee, tea, poetry readings and art exhibits are all part of the scene at the mellow InFusion. 7133 Germantown Ave., 215-248-1718, facebook. com/infusionmyairy

MICA Mica ranked among GQ critic Alan Richman’s 2012 “10 Best New Restaurants in America.” 8609 Germantown Ave., 267-335-3912, micarestaurant.com

THAI KUU A sleek spot for interesting Thai dishes. Is the name a pun? You decide. 35 Bethlehem Pike, 267-297-5715, thaikuu.com

TIFFIN This Mount Airy Tiffin satellite delivers perfectly proportioned boxed lunches and

TROLLEY CAR DINER Leave it to the Trolley to craft fluffy, gooey, perfectly cooked omelettes. 7619 Germantown Ave., 215-753-1500, trolleycardiner.com

WEAVERS WAY CO-OP The two locations of Weavers Way Co-op offer fresh, organic produce and an abundance of other grocery items, with a discount for members. 559 Carpenter Lane and 8424 Germantown Ave., 215-843-2350, weaversway.coop

ARTS + CULTURE MT. AIRY ART GARAGE Besides its permanent gallery/exhibition space, MAAG rents out studios and hosts art classes. 11 W. Mount Airy Ave., 215-2425074, mtairyartgarage.org

THE QUINTESSENCE THEATRE GROUP AT SEDGWICK THEATER This repertory company puts on classic plays all year long. 7137 Germantown Ave., 215-2406055, quintessencetheatre.org

WOODMERE ART MUSEUM This Victorian mansion hosts hands-on workshops and painting exhibitions. 9201 Germantown Ave., 215-247-0476, woodmereartmuseum.org

PARKS + REC

germantown + mt.airy + chestnut hill

215-849-5153, highpointcafe.us.com

THE HOODS

215-242-6700, winethiefbistro.com

MORRIS ARBORETUM Morris covers more than 92 acres and offers tons of classes and tours. 100 E. Northwestern Ave., 215-247-5777, morrisarboretum.org

C I T Y PA P E R . N E T

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MAD RIVER BAR & GRILLE This location features a great heated outdoor deck overlooking the Schuylkill River. 4100

UGLY MOOSE Order Fried Mooserella or Duck Stickers at this kid-friendly Manayunk eatery. 443 Shurs

Main St., 215-482-2666, madrivermanayunk.com

Lane, 215-482-2739, theuglymoose.com

MANAYUNK BREWERY AND RESTAURANT In addition to a full food menu, Manayunk Brewery features a variety of tasty house brews. 4120

WINNIE’S LEBUS Winnie’s serves LeBus artisan breads in the morning, house specialties like “Mom’s Meatloaf” in the afternoon and dinner entrées paired with local brews in the evening. 4266 Main St.,

Main St., 215-482-8220, manayunkbrewery.com

215-487-2663, lebusmanayunk.com

RESTAURANTS + MARKETS

MUSIC

BISOU Meaning “friendly kiss,” Bisou serves French bistro cuisine with a twist. 4161 Main St., 215-

DAWSON STREET PUB An impressive beer list complements the live music offered on weekends. 100 Dawson St.,

487-1230, bisouonmain.com

215-482-5677, dawsonstreetpub.com

CHABAA THAI BISTRO We go here for one reason and one reason alone: The spiciest Thai dishes in the state.

ARTS + CULTURE

4371 Main St., 215-483-1979, chabaathai.com

COUCH TOMATO CAFE Crowd-pleasing gourmet pizzas. 102 Rector St., 215-483-2233, manayunktomato.com

OLD ACADEMY PLAYERS 3544 Indian Queen Lane, 215-843-1109, oldacademyplayers.org

SCHUYLKILL CENTER FOR ENVIRONMENTAL EDUCATION 8480 Hagys Mill Road, 215-482-7300, schuylkillcenter.org

SHOPPING + BANKING BENJAMIN LOVELL SHOES Super-stylish shoes for men and women, from all manner of brands. 4305 Main St., 215-4873747, blshoes.com

EAST RIVER BANK A neighborhood bank. 4341 Ridge Ave., 267-

Look for our 3rd Location on the Main Line in Ardmore!

295-6420, 6137 Ridge Ave., 215-482-9401, eastriverbank.com

DALESSANDRO’S STEAKS AND HOAGIES Hoagies and cheesesteaks filled to the brim, plus a nice beer selection. 600 Wendover St., 215-482-5407, dalessandros.com

THE GOAT’S BEARD Go here for tapas, whiskey and craft beers. 4201 Main St., 267-323-2495, thegoatsbeardphilly.com

LAXMI’S INDIAN GRILL There are three ways to enjoy Laxmi’s Indian fare: dine in, take out or delivery. 4425 Main St., 215-508-2120, 3492 Tilden St., laxmisindian.com

JAKE’S AND COOPER’S WINE BAR Bruce Cooper’s extensive menu is committed to local farmers and sustainable practices. 4365-67 Main St., 215-483-0444, jakesrestaurant.com

MAIN STREET MUSIC An independent record store that regularly hosts in-store performances. 4444 Main St., 215-487-7732, mainstmusicpa.com

MATERIAL CULTURE A mind-boggling array of imported art and furnishings, from the contemporary to the antique. 4700 Wissahickon Ave., 215-849-8030,

Top 5 Indian Restaurant, Philly Hot List Finalist, City Paper Readers’ Choice

materialculture.com

PARKS + REC GORGAS PARK Ridge and Hermitage streets, gorgaspark.com

PRETZEL PARK Silverwood and Cotton streets, manayunkdogpark.com

WISSAHICKON VALLEY Henry Avenue and Lincoln Drive, 215-247-0417, fow.org

BYOB Takeout

Dine-In Delivery

Ardmore

Manayunk

East Falls

(610) 658-2120

(215) 508-2120

(267) 335-3312

www.LaxmisIndian.com C I T Y PA P E R . N E T

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2746 N. Fifth St., 215-425-5991

769-1289

CAFÉ SOHO There’s a crack-like quality to the Korean fried chicken at Café Soho, worth the hike to East Oak Lane and the near half-hour wait for the wings. 468 W. Cheltenham Ave., 215-

PORKY’S POINT The specialty here is the simple, satisfying Puerto Rican roast-pork sandwich. 3824 N.

224-6800

DRAUGHT HORSE PUB If you want to hang out with Temple students who are drinking Yuengling lager, this is the place to do it. Shoot a game of pool while you’re at it. 1431 Cecil B. Moore Ave., 215-2351010, draughthorse.com

Fifth St., 215-221-6243

PUB WEBB A college bar with college-bar specials: Depending on the night, you might get $1 Bud Lights to fuel the karaoke. 1527 Cecil B. Moore Ave., 267-687-8256, pubwebb.com

RELISH The food of the South, way, way up North. Try the iron-skillet buttermilk fried chicken or the all-night-braised short ribs of beef. Mmm. 7152 Ogontz Ave., 215-276-0170, relishphiladelphia.com

ROLINGS BAKERY Though slightly over the border, this kosher bakery is the only place to get truly great bagels. 7847 Montgomery Ave., 215-635-5524

SEORABOL Korea and Japan are equally well represented on Seorabol’s extensive menu: the appetizers alone range from sushi and sashimi platters to Korean pancakes, including one with a hot pepper and scallion and another with kimchee. 5734 Old Second St., 215-924-3355, FREDDY & TONY’S Freddy & Tony’s is a longtime favorite within the city’s Puerto Rican community. 201 W. Allegheny Ave., 215-634-3889

GREEN SOUL Soul food + organic food = collards smoothie. 7169 Ogontz Ave., 215-924-4200, greensoulliving.com

ISLA VERDE Nuevo Latin cuisine (with several ceviches and tapas on offer) plus, on the weekends, a South Beach-wannabe lounge and nightclub with DJs and live bands. 2725 N. American St., 215-426-3600

KIM’S RESTAURANT Don’t wear anything dry-clean-only to Kim’s or Seorabol; everything that enters leaves smelling like (delicious) Korean BBQ. 5955 N.

N. Broad St., 215-763-7700

RAICES CULTURALES LATINOAMERICANAS This nonprofit has a ton of programs, including cross-cultural lectures, music and dance performances and educational workshops. 1417 N. Second St., 215-425-1390, raicesculturales.org

TALLER PUERTORRIQUEÑO With the tagline “the cultural heart of Latino Philadelphia,” this organization wants to make the arts a vehicle for social change, and with a bunch of recent grants, they’ve been making great progess. The gallery’s exhibitions are usually constructed around a theme. 2721 N. Fifth St., 215-426-3311, tallerpr.org

TREE HOUSE BOOKS With a mission to “grow and sustain a community of readers, writers and thinkers in North Central Philadelphia,” Tree House offers numerous programs for young people and houses a used-book store. 1430 W. Susquehanna Ave., 215-236-1760, treehousebooks.org

philadelphiakoreanrestaurant.com

TIERRA COLOMBIANA Latin American and Caribbean dishes fill a multipage menu that will challenge you when you’re deciding what to order. How to choose? 4535 N. Fifth St., 215-324-6086, tierracolombianarestaurant.com

ARTS + CULTURE FLUXSPACE This arts collective doesn’t put on events very often, but when they do, they’re fun. 3000 N. Hope St., thefluxspace.org

NEW FREEDOM THEATRE Pennsylvania’s oldest African-American theater is home to the performing company Freedom Rep. 1346 N. Broad St., 215-765-2793, freedomtheatre.org

KOJA GRILLE The Korean and Japanese offerings at Koja include Korean-style wings, stone pots and udon. 1600 N. Broad St., 215-763-5652, koja-

LIACOURAS CENTER Temple’s stadium is where you go for Owls basketball games as well as every-once-in-awhile high-profile concerts, such as Fall Out Boy and Atoms for Peace (with Thom York and Flea). 1776 N. Broad St., 800-298-4200,

grille.com

liacourascenter.com

Fifth St., 215-927-4550

PEARL THEATER AT AVENUE NORTH The movie theater on Temple’s campus. 1600

north philly + temple

NOSHERY GOURMET CAFE Sandwiches and paninis that come packed with good ingredients. 1600 N. Broad St., 215-

THE HOODS

EL BOHIO A family-owned eatery with authentic Puerto Rican specialties like tostones and morcilla.

WAGNER FREE INSTITUTE OF SCIENCE An absolute hidden gem. The soaring threestory exhibition space is filled with naturalhistory specimens displayed in 19th-century cabinets. The Wagner is wonderful and just kind of weird. 1700 W. Montgomery Ave., 215763-6529, wagnerfreeinstitute.org

SHOPPING BILENKY CYCLE WORKS This custom framebuilding shop holds its Junkyard Cyclocross each December, with an obstacle course made of old tires, cars and scrap metal. 5319 N. Second St., 215-329-4744, bilenky.com C I T Y PA P E R . N E T

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marking your calendars for the next one. 6235 Frankford Ave., 215-856-3591, greylodge.com

THREE MONKEYS CAFÉ Sidle up to the 1890s hand-carved bar, an antique oasis in a Northeast sea of neon. 9645 James St., 215-637-6665, 3monkeyscafe.com

RESTAURANTS + MARKETS ALBERT’S CAFÉ Albert’s serves classics like chicken marsala and hot roast beef, plus standard pub grub like mozz sticks and buffalo wings. 3180 Grant Ave., 215-673-7200, albertscafe.com

JOE’S STEAKS & SODA SHOP Joe’s Steaks (formerly Chink’s) serves up old-school cheesesteaks to locals and tourists willing to make the trek. 6030 Torresdale Ave., 215-535-9405, chinksteaks.com

HAEGELE’S BAKERY You should call ahead to guarantee a slab of buttercake from this famous bakery tucked away on a quaint neighborhood street. According to some, the crunchier crust makes for much cleaner fingers, but you’ll have to try it yourself to decide. 4164 Barnett St., 215-624-0117

PHILADELPHIA DISTILLING CO. Up past the Northeast Airport near the edge of town is the home of Philly’s burgeoning smallbatch spirits empire, where Bartram’s Bitters, Penn 1681 Rye Vodka, Vieux Carré Absinthe, Bluecoat American Dry Gin and their latest whistle-wetter Shine White Whiskey are made. 12285 McNulty Road, Suite 105, 215-671-0346, philadelphiadistilling.com

RYERSS MUSEUM AND LIBRARY Open since 1910, the Ryerss Museum serves as both a museum of the Ryerss family’s various collections of exotic art and furnishings and a public library. 7370 Central Ave., 215-6850544, ryerssmuseum.org

MAKIMAN SUSHI The elusive Makiman rocks wicked sushi rolls in the shadows of CVS and Dunkin’ Donuts. 7324

SHOPPING

Oxford Ave., 215-722-8800, makimanonline.com

2329 Cottman Ave.

MAYFAIR BAKERY Buttercake purists will approve of Mayfair Bakery’s classic, no-frills version — they’ve been putting junk in the Northeast’s trunk since 1965, and their recipes haven’t changed. 6447

the northeast

Oxford Ave., 215-437-1939, hopangelbrauhaus. blogspot.com

Princeton Ave., 215-335-2828, finkshoagies.com

Frankford Ave., 215-335-9500, myinsectarium.com THE HOODS

HOP ANGEL BRAUHAUS Expect to see Oktoberfest and otherwise Deutsch-inspired beers from local breweries on the 12-tap system, in addition to traditional German beers, at any given time. 7980

with cotechino (fresh pork sausage) and accented with Fink’s own olive spread. No wonder their tagline is “King of Gourmet Hoagies.” 4633

ROOSEVELT MALL FRANKLIN MILLS MALL 1455 Franklin Mills Circle, 215-632-1500, franklinmills.com

Frankford Ave., 215-624-7878, mayfairbakery.com

MAYFAIR DINER Mayfair Diner is a mainstay for Neasties — maybe it has something to do with the fact that it’s a BYOB. 7373 Frankford Ave., 215-6244455, mayfairdiner.com

WHITE ELEPHANT White Elephant offers a three-course Thai lunch menu that’ll beat the fancy pants off your average Center City money pit. 759 Huntingdon Pike, 215-663-1495, whiteelephant.us

BOBO’S SPORTS BAR Women referring to themselves as “Aunties” rule the grill at this authentic Korean barbecue joint, but their variety of spicy stir-fries, hot pots and kimchi will have you screaming “uncle!” 6424 Castor Ave., 215-743-9900

CHICKIE’S & PETE’S The original location of Chickie’s and Pete’s features a menu of gut-busters like crab fries, chicken-cutlet parm and mussels marinara. 4010 Robbins Ave., 215-338-3060, chickiesandpetes.com

DATTILO’S DELICATESSEN Dattilo’s has long been the go-to hoagie joint for the Northeast lunch rush, but this Italian deli has even more if you’ve got the time. 8000 Horrocks St., 215-725-2020, dattilosdeli.com

FINK’S Fink’s claim to fame is the Original Italian, made

WIT OR WITOUT John Tumolo entered the cheesesteak fray with this Wit or Witout location in Northeast Philly. 9970 Roosevelt Blvd., 215-437-1681, witorwitout.com

ARTS + CULTURE GRAND ARMY OF THE REPUBLIC MUSEUM This museum’s historic claim was once: “Where the Civil War comes alive.” Its collection — including the handcuffs John Wilkes Booth planned to use to kidnap President Lincoln and a strip of the dying President’s bloodstained pillowcase — backs it up. 4278 Griscom St., 215-289-6484, garmuslib.org

INSECTARIUM Billed as Philadelphia’s only “all-bug museum,” the Insectarium hosts a variety of programs in the name of creepy-crawly education. 8046

PAT’S MUSIC CENTER Sells guitars, drum kits, DJ equipment and more. 7302 Frankford Ave., 215-708-0444, patsmusiccenter.com

PARKS + REC BURHOLME PARK Cottman and Central avenues

FOX CHASE FARM 8500 Pine Road, 215-728-7900, foxchasefarm.org

PENNYPACK PARK Welsh Road and Cresco Avenue, 215-574-2100, pennypackpark.com

WISSINOMING PARK East Cheltenham Road and Frankford Avenue, 215-685-1498 C I T Y PA P E R . N E T

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215-739-4929

Ave., 215-634-4400, barcadephiladelphia.com

FRANKFORD HALL 1210 Frankford Ave., 215-634-3338, frankfordhall.com

Tilton St., 215-423-1707, kielbasyboys.com

EKTA INDIAN CUISINE The Indian fare at Ekta is amazing, even if the storefront isn’t much to look at. 250 E. Girard Ave., 215-426-2277, ektaindianrestaurant.com

GREENSGROW FARMS A locavore’s dream, Greensgrow sells plants in spring, is a one-stop farmers market in peak season and has CSA shares year-round. 2501 E. Cumberland St., 215-427-2702, greensgrow.org

JOVAN’S PLACE Both food and hospitality at this Slavic spot are honest, generous and rustic. 2327 E. York St., 215-634-3330, jovansplace.com

KUNG FU NECKTIE Mostly punk-ish and indie acts; young people, but more ear gauges than tight pants. 1250 N. Front St., 215-291-4919, kungfunecktie.com

ARTS + CULTURE CRANE ARTS 1400 N. American St., 215-232-3203, cranearts.com

LITTLE BERLIN 2430 Coral St., littleberlin.org

PHILADELPHIA SCULPTURE GYM A membership gets sculptors access to heavyduty welding, casting and wood-shaping equipment in this former auto-repair shop. 1834 Frankford Ave., 215-901-1933, philadelphiasculpturegym.com

LOCO PEZ 2401 E. Norris St., 215-886-8061, locopez.com

SHOPPING

MARIAN’S BAKERY Since 1959, Port Richmond’s Polish population has been lining up outside Marian’s for a hit of the sweet stuff: cheese babka and makowiec, a poppyseed swirl cake rolled up with or without walnuts. 2615 E. Allegheny

CIRCLE THRIFT This friendly outpost of the thrift-shop network has furniture, books, records and clothing.

Ave., 215-634-4579

KRAFTWORK A serious beer bar with a lineup of 24 all-draft craft beers. A taut menu is laid out like blueprints, in keeping with the industrial theme. 541 E. Girard Ave., 215-739-1700, kraftworkbar.com

MEMPHIS TAPROOM Plentiful craft brews and crazy-good bar food (fried pickles). When it’s warm, the outdoor space hosts a semi-permanent food truck selling fancy hot dogs and beer by the can. 2331 E. Cumberland St., 215-425-4460, memphistaproom.com

PIZZA BRAIN A Guinness-record-holding pizza memorabilia museum that also makes a mean slice. 2313 Frankford Ave., 215-291-2965, pizzabrain.org

ROCKET CAT CAFÉ The Thai iced coffee is a godsend for those who’ve built up a caffeine tolerance. 2001 Frankford Ave., 215-739-4526

ber St., 215-427-2739, philadelphiabrewing.com

E. Girard Ave., 215-634-3466, sketch-burger.com

YARDS BREWING COMPANY 901 N. Delaware Ave., 215-634-2600, yardsbrewing.com

RESTAURANTS + MARKETS CZERW’S KIELBASY A taste of Port Richmond’s old-school Polish

215-425-3385, portrichmondbooks.com

Girard Ave., 267-909-8348, milkcratecafe.com

SKETCH Figure-watchers, grab a turkey or vegan burger. Everyone else, you can get truffle butter as a topping. Contribute a construction-paper crayon drawing to the walls while you wait. 413

1001 N. Delaware Ave., 267-232-2000, sugarhousecasino.com

PORT RICHMOND BOOKS Epic in scale and variety. 3037 Richmond St.,

MILKCRATE CAFÉ This spot cranks out on-point breakfast fare and doubles as a record store to boot. 400 E.

PHILADELPHIA BREWING CO. PBC and Yards are the two big local breweries — both are great, but this one is the source of the omnipresent Kenzinger trucks. 2439 AmSUGARHOUSE CASINO

2233 Frankford Ave., 215-423-1222, circlethrift.com

fishtown + kensington + port richmond

BARCADE Dozens of craft brews + dozens of vintage arcade games = no laundry money. Don’t worry — there’s a change machine. 1114 Frankford

roots. If it’s near the holidays, you’ll want to call ahead and reserve your sausage. 3370

THE HOODS

Fishtown’s cash-poor but taste-rich artistic types. Aquariums behind the bar and pool tables are also pluses. 2442 Frankford Ave.,

MUSIC HIGHWIRE GALLERY Books tons of avant-garde and free-jazz shows after hours. 2040 Frankford Ave., 215-426-2685, highwiregallery.com

JOHNNY BRENDA’S Well-respected national and local acts play this smallish room, a renovated 19th-century theater. Lots of tight pants on a slightly more mature, chill crowd. Great food, too. 1201 Frankford Ave., 215-739-9684, johnnybrendas.com C I T Y PA P E R . N E T

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100 Spring Garden St., 215-625-2800, delilahs.com

Hancock and Germantown Ave., 215-791-8090

413-3666, norththird.com

R.U.B.A. HALL Join the Russian Ukrainian Boating Association (aka R.U.B.A.) for cheap beer, free pool and after-hours hours. 414 Green St., 215-627-9831

BROWN BETTY DESSERT BOUTIQUE This mother-daughter operation churns out killer cupcakes, dreamy pies and a host of other thigh-thickening treats. 722 N. Second St., 215-629-0999, brownbettydesserts.com

CAFE LA MAUDE Middle Eastern flavors mingle with French fare in this lovely cafe, where you can breakfast on a croque madame or foul madamas. 816 N.

SOUNDGARDEN HALL Where neon-wearing young people (even underage ones — it’s a BYOB club where the of-age B’ers of YOB stay in a roped-off area) can go to make out and dance to pounding electronic music all night long. 520 N. Delaware Ave., 717-507-0258, soundgardenhall.com

STANDARD TAP A founding father of Philly’s beer scene, Standard Tap has been changing its huge chalkboard menus of all-local, all-draft beers for more than 15 years. 901 N. Second St., 215238-0630, standardtap.com

RESTAURANTS + MARKETS 1 SHOT COFFEE This bi-level coffeehouse has great decor and is comfy for work and reading. 217 W. George St., 215-627-1620, 1shotcoffee.wordpress.com

BAR FERDINAND The food here is straight, beautifully crafted

215-925-1150

Fourth St., 267-318-7869, cafelamaude.com

CANTINA DOS SEGUNDOS Go for the deadly frozen margarita pitchers, stay for the creative Mexican menu with plenty of south-of-the-border vegan options.

PAESANO’S Incredible, cheap and, most importantly, huge sandwiches. The Arista is the stuff that pork dreams are made of. 152 W. Girard Ave., 215-

931 N. Second St., 215-629-0500, cantinadossegundos.com

886-9556, paesanosphillystyle.com

Second St., 267-687-1309, circlesthai.com

Garden St., 215-592-8838, silkcityphilly.com

HONEY’S SIT ‘N EAT This quintessential, always-packed NoLibs brunch spot serves Jewish home cooking with a sweet Southern drawl. 800 N. Fourth St., IL CANTUCCIO Grab a few bottles of Chianti and tuck into Italian classics like penne arrabbiata and mozzarella in carozza. 701 N. Third St., 215-627-6573

CIRCLES The NoLibs outpost of this South Philly Thai favorite offers up a few extras including mocktail mixers for BYOers and four- and five-course custom tasting menus. 812 N.

SILK CITY Updated diner food with live music and DJs who pack in the tight-pantsed crowd almost uncomfortably tightly on the weekends. 435 Spring

Second St., 215-923-4600, gunnersrun.com

northern liberties

N. 3RD Serving up local brews and a killer brunch that’s worth the wait. 801 N. Third St., 215-

barferdinand.com

GUNNERS RUN This restaurant at the Piazza has vegetarian, gluten-free and vegan menu options. 1001 N.

THE HOODS

EMANUELLE Thoughtfully and artfully crafted cocktails in a room that’s romantic in a very gothic way.

tapas — hot and cold salads, bocadillos and pinchos. 1030 N. Second St., 215-923-1313,

PURA VIDA BYO sangria to this Latin-American NoLibs spot. 527 Fairmout Ave., 215-922-6433, puravidaphilly.com

P.Y.T. Drinking an entire adult milkshake at this lively burger joint/dance party will put you to sleep

THE FOODERY The roomier northern outpost of Pine Street’s iconic beer bottle shop; choose from a jawdropping array of domestic and imported beer, available by the bottle, six pack or mixed six. 837 N. Second St., 215-238-6077, fooderybeer.com

DARLING’S DINER Get your eggs-toast-hashbrowns-and-coffee fix at this Piazza diner. 1033 N. Second St., 267239-5775, darlingsdiner.com

DMITRI’S Dmitri Chimes, who owns long-successful restaurants in Queen Village and Fitler Square, is now in NoLibs with Dmitri’s No. 3. 944 N. Second St., 215-592-4550, dmitrisrestaurant.com

EL CAMINO REAL The restaurant celebrates food from both sides of the Tex-Mex border with two separate but equally hunger-inducing menus on offer. 1040 N. Second St., 215-925-1110, bbqburritobar.com

GARDEN VARIETY This open-air market hosts mobile eats like Little Baby’s Ice Crem, The Dapper Dog and more. 900 N. Second St., gardenvarietyphiladelphia.com

GREEN EGGS CAFE Warning: You’ll have to wait in the brunch line here on weekends, but when chicken-and-waffles Benedict and tiramisu french toast are on the menu, no one’s complaining. 719 N. Second St., 215-922-3447, greeneggscafe.com C I T Y PA P E R . N E T

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long before you meet any pretty young things. THE HOO D S

1001 N. Second St., 215-964-9009, pytphilly.com

northern liberties

THE RANDOM TEA ROOM Tea aficionados and casual consumers of hot drinks alike will delight in Random Tea Room’s selection of artisanal teas and housemade herbal infusions. 713 N. Fourth St., 267639-2442, therandomtearoom.com

RUSTICA PIZZA While you end up paying more than you would at other shops, Rustica’s superior ingredients form one magnificent chicken cheesesteak. 903 N. Second St., 215-627-1393

records/head-shop needs and occasional in-store shows. 1050 N. Hancock St., Suite 76, 267-239-2037, creeprecords.com

FESTIVAL PIER In the summertime, this is the outdoor venue where you’ll find a lot of big touring acts and the Roots Picnic. Keep hydrated; the place can get brutal when the sun is high. Columbus Boulevard and Spring Garden Street, festivalpierphilly. com, livenation.com

THE FIRE A small, dive-y venue and bar that’s admirably devoted to local music. 412 W. Girard Ave., 215-671-9298, iourecords.com/thefire

ORTLIEB’S A legendary former jazz club, resurrected as a rock-and-roll bar with cool cocktails, BYO vinyl night and affordably awesome Tex-Mex fare. 847 N. Third St., 267-324-3348, ortliebs-

TIFFIN Delicious Indian food as takeout, sit-down or delivery, specializing in the long-term box-lunch delivery service in Indian cities that gives Tiffin its name. 710 W. Girard Ave., 215-922-1297, tiffinstore.com

TRIOS TRATTORIA Entering this shop fills you with the smells of a freshly baked Margherita pizza, and that’s only the beginning. 342 W. Girard Ave., 215627-1000, newtriostrattoria.com

MUSIC THE BARBARY A small venue and bar that splits its time between smaller punk, metal and other diversely booked shows and constant makeout-friendly DJ nights. 951 Frankford Ave., 215-624-7400,

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2450, exitphiladelphia.com

JINXED CLOTHING Vintage clothing, furniture and ephemera alongside art and wearables from local artists. 1050 N. Hancock St., 215-978-5469, jinxedphiladelphia.com

PROJECTS GALLERY The Philadelphia outpost of a notable Miami gallery. 629 N. Second St., 267-303-9652,

PARKS + REC

SHOPPING ARCADIA BOUTIQUE Organic cotton tees, carefully selected vintage pieces and plenty of socially conscious housewares and accessories mingle among pieces by designers such as Mel en Stel, Rich & Skinny and Ben Sherman at this eco-friendly boutique for guys and dolls. 819 N. Second St.,

reloadbags.com

BODY ARTS GYM Channel your inner Ong-Bak with muay thai classes at Body Arts. 926 N. Second St., 267-7737871, bodyartsgym.com

215-667-8099, arcadiaboutique.com

ARCHITECTURAL ANTIQUES EXCHANGE A three-floor wonderland of extremely old-school furniture, iron work, stained glass, doors, full wooden pub bars and more. 715 N. Second St., 215-922-3669, architecturalantiques.com

ART STAR If you can’t get enough of their jewelry, dresses, ceramics, playthings, menswear, art tees and baby clothing, this crafty haven also hosts a wicked annual craft bazaar. 623 N. Second St., 215-238-1557, artstarphilly.com

CHEZ BOW WOW The only one who deserves to be pampered more than you … is your dog. 707 N. Second

facebook.com/thebarbary

St., 215-923-2992, chezbowwow.com

CREEP RECORDS STORE Your one-stop shop for all of your punk-rock-

CITY PLANTER Heaven for urban gardeners who’re dreaming

CITYGUIDE 2013 - 2014

EXIT SKATE SHOP Sure, you can get some sick decks at Exit, but this multi-use space also functions as a gallery and show space. 825 N. Second St., 215-425-

ARTS + CULTURE

projectsgallery.com

Spring Garden St., 215-928-1288

627-6169, cityplanter.com

R.E.LOAD BAGS For a decade, R.E.Load has been making crazy-durable, crazy-stylish messenger bags. Their custom applique work, while expensive, is some of the best in the country, and recognized as such by messengers all over. Host of the annual April Fool’s bike race, among others. 608 N. Second St., 215-625-2987,

lounge.com

SPRING GARDEN MARKET You’ll see it all in these aisles — mock duck and abalone, insta-noodle bowls, pre-packed dumplings, Mikawaya ice cream, bizarroworld Lotte candies … we could go on. 400

up big ideas in small spaces. They’ve got lots of resources if you’re interested in terrariums or vertical gardening. 814 N. Fourth St., 215-

LIBERTY LANDS PARK A park with many well-manicured dogs, a playground and a movie night that goes all summer long. 926 N. American St., 215-6276562, nlna.org

NORTH BOWL Where the well-dressed go to bowl, booze and eat tots, mac & cheese and other bar snacks. (You’ll probably want to call ahead to reserve a lane on weekends.) 909 N. Second St., 215-238-2695, northbowlphilly.com

Fairmount Ave., 215-765-1616, thecollar.us THE HOO D S

BRIDGID’S An idiosyncratic neighborhood tappy that recently upped the level of its food offerings, adding small plates and antipasti. 726 N. 24th

art museum + fairmount + brewerytown

St., 215-232-3232, bridgids.com

ST. STEPHEN’S GREEN A friendly bar and grill. 1701 Green St., 215769-5000, saintstephensgreen.com

RESTAURANTS + MARKETS ALLA SPINA Modeled on an Italian gastropub, Alla Spina’s menu is clever and rich. 1410 Mount Vernon St., 215-600-0017, allaspinaphilly.com

here? ... Don’t ask questions. 2743 Poplar St., 215-769-7008, theerabar.com

JACK’S FIREHOUSE The soaring space is a terrific place to linger over dinner and drinks. In warm weather, the large doors to the 19th-century firehouse are propped open. 2130 Fairmount Ave., 215-2329000, jacksfirehouse.com

LEMON HILL Known for its excellent cocktails, Lemon Hill does almost everything right. 747 N. 25th St., 215-232-2299, lemonhillphilly.com

LONDON GRILL + PARIS WINE BAR London Grill is a friendly neighborhood institution, with a sister wine-bar venue right next door. 2301 Fairmount Ave., 215-978-4545, londongrill.com

MUGSHOTS COFFEEHOUSE Locations on Fairmount and Girard avenues cater to coffee-sippers of all stripes. 1925 Fairmount Ave., 267-514-7145, 2831 W. Girard Ave., 215-717-3327, mugshotscoffeehouse.com

OCF COFFEE HOUSE A newcomer to the neighborhood caffeine market. 2100 Fairmount Ave., 267-773-8081,

MUSIC NORTH STAR BAR A roster of interesting, often under-the-radar bands gets booked here. 2639 Poplar St., 215787-0488, northstarbar.com

ARTS + CULTURE EASTERN STATE PENITENTIARY The world’s first true “penitentiary,” Eastern State is now a spectacular, haunting historic site. 2027 Fairmount Ave., 215-236-3300, easternstate.org

PHILADELPHIA MUSEUM OF ART The famous institution that looms benevolently over the neighborhood. 2600 Ben Franklin Parkway, 215-763-8100, philamuseum.org

SHOPPING ALI’S WAGON A cute shop for housewares, gifts and children’s items. 2017 Fairmount Ave., 215-7870611, aliswagon.com

BOOKHAVEN A classic used-books spot. 2202 Fairmount Ave., 215-235-3226

ocfcoffeehouse.com

REMBRANDT’S RESTAURANT & PUB A longtime, popular neighborhood dweller. 741 N. 23rd St., 215-763-2228, rembrandts.com

BUTTERS SOUL FOOD TO GO Barbecue, ribs, corn-bread stuffing and desserts baked by owner Kevin Bell’s mother. 2821 W. Girard Ave., 215-235-4724, butterssoulfood.com

CAFÉ L’AUBE Micro-batch-roasted coffee and a variety of crepes, both sweet and savory. 1639 Wallace St., 215-235-2720, cafelaube.com

FARE The focus here is on organic, local and sustainable. 2028 Fairmount Ave., 267-639-3063, farerestaurant.com

FIGS At this Morrocan-influenced BYO, expect careful and attentive service. 2501 Meredith St., 215-978-8440, figsrestaurant.com

LA CALACA FELIZ Enjoy contemporary Mexican cuisine while surrounded by lots of paintings of frolicking skeletons. 2321 Fairmount Ave., 215-787-9930, lacalacafeliz.com

ERA Super-cheap Ethiopian food? All the way up 76

CITYGUIDE 2013 - 2014

ROUTE 6 The food is inspired by eastern coastal towns. Think oysters, clam chowder and lobsters. 600 N. Broad St., 215-391-4600, route6restaurant.com

RYBREAD An adorable cafe featuring gourmet sandwiches and paninis. 2319 Fairmount Ave., 215769-0603, rybreadcafe.com

RYBREW This Brewerytown location of Rybread opened in July 2013 and includes a nice takeout beer selection. 2816 W. Girard Ave., 215-763-

PARKS + REC

1984, rybreadcafe.com

507-9370, fairmountbicycles.com

SABRINA’S II One challah French toast special will be enough for the table. Just take our word for it. 1804 Callowhill St., 215-636-9061, sabri-

FAIRMOUNT PARK More green space and hike/bike trails than you’ll know what to do with. Near the beginning of Boathouse Row there’s a cafe and a bicycle-rental stand. 215-988-9334, fairmount-

nascafe.com

TRIO This converted two-story row home serves up pan-Asian dishes of the mostly Thai variety. 2624 Brown St., 215-232-8746, triobyob.com

FAIRMOUNT BICYCLES Bike sales and rentals. 2015 Fairmount Ave., 267-

park.org

FAIRMOUNT RUNNING COMPANY Running shoes and apparel. 2023 Fairmount Ave., 267-639-6046, runfairmount.com

PROHIBITION TAPROOM

THE TRESTLE INN

NEW HARMONY VEGETARIAN RESTAURANT 135 N. Ninth St., 215-627-4520, myspace.com/newharmony

OCEAN CITY A lively, Hong Kong-style dim sum hall. 234 N.

YAKITORI BOY The downstairs space features a full sushi bar, drinkin’ bar and yakitori bar. Upstairs is karaoke, in private rooms or at the bar — either way, huge cans of Sapporo are cost-efficient.

Ninth St., 215-829-0688, oceancityrestaurant.com

211 N. 11th St., 215-923-8088, yakitoriboy.com

PENANG The menu requests that you talk to your server before ordering a few Malaysian dishes. 117 N. 10th St., 215-413-2531

UNION TRANSFER This 1,000-capacity venue opened in 2011 in a beautiful old train depot. It’s real purty, has great sound and details like the omnipresent ledges to rest cups on are a microcosm of how well thought out it is. 1026 Spring Garden St., 215-232-2100, utphilly.com

PHO CALI 1000 Arch St., 215-629-1888

ARTS + CULTURE

RANGOON Traditional Burmese dishes like chili shrimp and thousand-layer bread with potato curry dip. 112

ASIAN ARTS INITIATIVE

N. Ninth St., 215-829-8939, rangoonrestaurant.com

FABRIC WORKSHOP & MUSEUM

READING TERMINAL MARKET With more than 80 stalls and shops, Reading Terminal Market dates back to 1892, when the Reading Railroad commissioned a food bazaar. 12th and Arch streets, 215-922-2317, readingterminalmarket.org

RESTAURANTS + MARKETS BANANA LEAF The huge dining room can service tons of people, and the roti canai appetizer is not to be ignored. 1009 Arch St., 215-592-8288

SAZON Philly’s only source for authentic, affordable Venezuelan cuisine.The high-end hot chocolates, their specialty, are ridiculous. 941 Spring

428 N. 13th St., 215-922-3031, cafelift.com

VIETNAM

DINIC’S Prepare for the line for the roast-pork sandwich to be DiLongest. Reading Terminal

221 N. 11th St., 215-592-1163, eatatvietnam.com

1033 Spring Garden St., 267-639-4582, llamatooth.com

LEE HOW FOOK In this Szechuan and family-style BYO, a smaller, reservable room in back has huge tables with lazy susans and is key for feeding large parties at a ridiculously low cost. 219 N.

1101 Arch St., 215-418-4700, paconvention.com

SPACE 1026 See Art, p. 32. 1026 Arch St., 215-574-7630, space1026.com

MUSIC ELECTRIC FACTORY A 3,000-capacity venue that primarily hosts big rock, metal and hip-hop acts. 42 N. Seventh St., 215-627-1332, electricfactory.info

PHILAMOCA Well-curated DIY shows, art and film screenings in this former mausoleum showroom that used to be Diplo’s HQ. 531 N. 12th St., 267-519-9651, philamoca.org

11th St., 215-925-7266, leehowfook.com

STARLIGHT BALLROOM

NAN ZHOU HAND DRAWN NOODLE HOUSE We’d pay the $5.75 just to watch the guy in the back window wrangle a fresh batch of this place’s namesake soup component. 1022 Race

THE TROCADERO National bands and hip-hop acts come from all over to this former burlesque house. 1003 Arch

St., 215-923-1550, nanzhounoodlehouse.com

PENNSYLVANIA CONVENTION CENTER

TAI LAKE SEAFOOD RESTAURANT For those not too skittish to pick out their own frog from the vivarium in the entranceway. 134 N. 10th St., 215-922-0698, tailakeseafoodrest.com

LLAMA TOOTH

1214 Arch St., 215-561-8888, fabricworkshopandmuseum.org

Garden St., 215-763-2500, sazonphilly.com

CAFÉ LIFT

Market, 1136 Arch St., 215-923-6175, tommydinics.com

1219 Vine St., 215-557-0455, asianartsinitiative.org

chinatown + spring garden + callowhill

339 N. 11th St., 267-239-0290, thetrestleinn.com

UNDERGROUND ARTS The basement of a huge, loft-converted warehouse hosts shows and performing arts throughout the year, but especially during Fringe. 1200 Callowhill St., undergroundarts.org

THE HOODS

501 N. 13th St., 215-238-1818, theprohibitiontaproom.com

460 N. Ninth St., 215-908-2063, starlight-ballroom.com

St., 215-922-LIVE, thetroc.com

VOX POPULI ET AL. A ton of art collectives live in one four-story building. See Art, p. 32. 319 N. 11th St., 215238-1236, voxpopuligallery.org

SHOPPING ABAKUS TAKEOUT Don’t let the exterior fool you — this Chinatown streetwear boutique serves up limited-edition sneaks and designer denim, not roast duck. 227 N. 10th St., 215-351-7978, abakustakeout.com

AIA BOOKSTORE & DESIGN CENTER You can get a LEGO kit of Fallingwater here. 1218 Arch St., 215-569-3188, aiabookstore.com C I T Y PA P E R . N E T

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Cityguide 2013