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Sale information
Geneva, 5–6 November 2022
Auction & Viewing Location La Réserve 301, Route de Lausanne 1293 Bellevue, Switzerland
Auctions
Saturday, 5 November 2022, 2pm Session 1 Sunday, 6 November 2022, 2pm Session 2
Please register to bid online, absentee or by phone.
Under the aegis of Maître Tristan Reymond, Huissier Judiciaire
Viewing
Wednesday, 2 November, 2pm–7pm Thursday, 3 November, 10am–7pm Friday, 4 November, 10am–7pm Saturday, 5 November, 9am–12:30pm Sunday, 6 November, 9am–12:30pm
Sale Designation
When sending in written bids or making enquiries please refer to this sale as CH080322 or The Geneva Watch Auction: XVI.
Absentee and Telephone Bids
Tel +41 22 317 8181 Fax +41 22 317 8180 bidsgeneva@phillips.com
Geneva
Watch Department, Geneva
Senior Consultants
Aurel Bacs +41 22 317 8188 abacs@phillipsbacsrusso.com
Livia Russo +41 22 317 8188 lrusso@phillipsbacsrusso.com
Client Relations Manager at Bacs & Russo Clara Kessi +41 22 317 8188 ckessi@phillipsbacsrusso.com
Administrative Assistant at Bacs & Russo Athena Bras +41 22 317 9665 abras@phillipsbacsrusso.com
Head of Watches, Continental Europe and Middle East Alexandre Ghotbi +41 22 317 8189 aghotbi@phillips.com
Head of Sale, Geneva
Tiffany To +41 22 317 96 63 tto@phillips.com
Specialist
Virginie Liatard-Roessli +41 22 317 8182 vliatard@phillips.com
Specialist & Business Development Associate
Marcello de Marco +41 22 317 81 81 mdemarco@phillips.com
Associate Specialist Edoardo Bolla +41 79 552 73 68 ebolla@phillips.com
Specialist/Perpetual Gstaad Clement Finet +41 79 173 03 45 cfinet@phillips.com
International Head of Digital Strategy Arthur Touchot +41 22 317 96 62 atouchot@phillips.com
International Business Director Myriam Christinaz +41 22 317 8184 mchristinaz@phillips.com
Regional Director, Business Development Director Nathalie Monbaron +41 22 317 8183 nmonbaron@phillips.com
Business Development Manager Diana Ortega +41 22 317 8187 dortega@phillips.com
Senior Administrator
Emanuela Campi +41 22 317 96 67 ecampi@phillips.com Administrator Tina Schmitt +41 22 317 96 67 tschmitt@phillips.com
Shipping & Office Coordinator
Charles-Henri Gounod +41 79 532 0395 chgounod@phillips.com
Finance & Office Administration
Alexia Rinalducci +41 22 317 96 71 arinalducci@phillips.com
Watchmaker, Technical Support Nicolas Commergnat info@alliance-geneve.com
Photographer Jess Hoffman contact@jesshoffman.ch
Advisory Board
Jean-Claude Biver Henry Chan Helmut Crott Ike Honigstock
Stephen Charles Li David Lou TK Mak
Auro Montanari Jason Singer Kenneth Wong
Our Team Watches
Senior Executives
Executive Chairman
+1 212 940 1241 edolman@phillips.com
© Brigitte Lacombe
Cheyenne Westphal
Global Chairwoman +44 20 7318 4044 cwestphal@phillips.com
Stephen Brooks
Chief Executive Officer +44 0 20 7318 4046 sbrooks@phillips.com
Deputy Chairmen & Chairwomen
Svetlana Marich Worldwide Deputy Chairman +44 20 7318 4010 smarich@phillips.com
Senior Consultants
Aurel Bacs
Senior Consultant
+41 22 317 81 88 abacs@phillipsbacsrusso.com
Livia Russo
Senior Consultant +41 22 317 81 88 lrusso@phillipsbacsrusso.com
Vanessa Hallett
Deputy Chairwoman, Americas, Worldwide Head of Photographs +1 212 940 1243 vhallett@phillips.com
Robert ManleyDeputy Chairman, Worldwide Co-Head of 20th Century & Contemporary Art +1 212 940 1358 rmanley@phillips.com
Peter SumnerDeputy Chairman, Europe, Senior International Specialist, 20th Century & Contemporary Art +44 20 7318 4063 psumner@phillips.com
Miety HeidenDeputy Chairwoman, Head of Private Sales +44 20 7901 7943 mheiden@phillips.com
Executives
Jonathan Crockett
Chairman, Asia, Head of 20th Century & Contemporary Art, Asia +852 2318 2023 jcrockett@phillips.com
Hugues Joffre
Senior Advisor to the CEO +44 207 901 7923 hjoffre@phillips.com
Jean-Paul Engelen
President, Americas, Worldwide Co-Head of 20th Century & Contemporary Art +1 212 940 1390 jpengelen@phillips.com
Arnold Lehman
Senior Advisor to the CEO +1 212 940 1385 alehman@phillips.com
Jamie Niven
Senior Advisor to the CEO +1 917 880 2532 jniven@phillips.com
Derek Collins
Senior Consultant to Chairman’s Office, Asia +852 2318 2000 derekcollins@phillips.com
Deputy Chairman, Americas, Senior International Specialist, 20th Century & Contemporary Art +1 917 304 4329 jevarts@phillips.com
Deputy Chairman, Americas, Head of Business Development, Americas
+1 212 940 1392 vpfeiffer@phillips.com
Elizabeth Goldberg
Deputy Chairwoman, Europe, Senior Specialist, 20th Century & Contemporary Art +32 3257 3026 mhoet@phillips.com
Deputy Chairwoman, Americas, Senior International Specialist, American Art +1 212 940 1239 egoldberg@phillips.com
Deputy Chairman, Americas, Worldwide Co-Head of Editions +1 212 940 1222 cleibowitz@phillips.com
Deputy Chairwoman, Americas, Worldwide Co-Head of Editions +1 212 940 1221 ktroester@phillips.com
Edward Dolman Vivian Pfeiffer Marianne Hoet Jeremiah Evarts Kelly Troester Cary LeibowitzAurel Bacs
Livia
Clara Kessi
Bras
Manager
International Business Director
Digital MarketingBusiness Development
Myriam Christinaz
Geneva
of
Tiffany To Head of Sale,
tto@phillips.com
Regional Director
Virginie Liatard Roessli Specialist
Diana Ortega
Business Development Manager +41 22 317 81 87 dortega@phillips.com
Arthur Touchot
atouchot@phillips.com
Nathalie Monbaron
Hong Kong
Marcello de Marco Specialist, Business
mdemarco@phillips.com
Edoardo Bolla
Specialist
Clement Finet Specialist
Gstaad
cfinet@phillips.com
Thomas Perazzi
Head of Watches, Asia +852 2318 2030 thomasperazzi@phillips.com
Tokyo
Jill Chen
Head of Watches, Hong Kong +852 2318 2033 jillchen@phillips.com
Zi Yong Ho
Co-Head of Sale, International Specialist +852 2318 2032 ziyongho@phillips.com
Taiwan
Gertrude Wong
Co-Head of Sale, Specialist +852 2318 2045 gertrudewong@phillips.com
Shoyo Kawamura
Specialist +852 2318 2035 shoyokawamura@phillips.com
Thailand
Jasmine Wai Cataloguer +852 2318 2035 jasminewai@phillips.com
China
Genki Sakamoto
Senior Specialist Consultant +81 3 6273 4818 gsakamoto@phillips.com
New York
Kaz Fujimoto
Senior Consultant +81 3 6273 4818 kfujimoto@phillips.com
Cindy Yen
General Manager, Taiwan +886 963 135 449 cyen@phillips.com
Zach Lu Consultant +852 2318 2034 zacharylu@phillips.com
Rika Dila
Senior Consultant +66 818 186 878 rikadila@phillips.com
Daniel Sum Consultant +852 6887 5110 danielsum@phillips.com
Paul Boutros
Head of Watches, Americas International Strategy Advisor
212 940 1293 pboutros@phillips.com
London
Doug Escribano
Senior International Specialist
212 940 1382 describano@phillips.com
Isabella Proia
Head of Sale, International Specialist
212 940 1285 iproia@phillips.com
Melissa Dahl
Sale and Business Development Manager
212 940 1314 mdahl@phillips.com
Christopher Youé Specialist +44 7778 143 563 cyoue@phillips.com
Welcome By Alexandre Ghotbi and Tiffany To
After an incredible first half of 2022 we are delighted to offer you what we consider to be one of the most varied and tightly curated sales at Phillips, with the most historically important, relevant and rare wrist and pocket watches of the second half of the 20th Century and 21st Century on offer.
However, looking back, one word has been used quite a bit in the past seasons to describe watches - whether by journalist, analysts, collectors, and enthusiasts - is the word “Investment”.
Watches are a potent mix of art, craftsmanship, design, engineering, and history all fitting into a tiny object and being reduced to a simple asset is both insulting and unfair. Watches represent hundreds of years of innovation, human genius, evolution, and a mirror of the era they were made in. Not to mention the know-how, dexterity, time, and energy needed to craft them.
Obviously, the resale factor can be a part (a small part we hope) of the decision to buy a timepiece, but when buying a watch what value should a collector put on the fact that the watch fills a gap in a collection, the pride of owning a truly extraordinary object or having something that will be timing the happy moments of one’s life?
At Phillips we are not financial advisors or bankers, we are utter watch lovers and truly hope to see in the coming months more and more articles and discussions around the merits of horology than their price and resale values.
We truly believe that watches are true works of art, art that can be worn, art that has a function, art that can have a meaning, art that can be classical or completely mind bending. Artworks having been made from old masters or young and upcoming stars.
We hope that you enjoy the works that we have selected for you in this catalogue, A selection made with passion, enthusiasm and a profound love of horology
Alexandre Ghotbi
Head of Watches, Continental Europe and Middle East Tiffany To Head of Sale, Senior International Specialist
Manufacturer Rolex
Year 2021
Reference No. 124300
Case No. 53’NP0’700
Model Name Oyster Perpetual 41 “Turquoise Blue”
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 3230, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex Oyster deployant clasp
Dimensions 41mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 5,000-10,000
$5,100-10,200
€5,100-10,300
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex Guarantee card dated 3rd September 2021, original receipt, instruction manual, product literature, green card holder, hang tags, outer packaging and fitted presentation box.
Officially released in 2020 and discontinued in 2022, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual collection with its multitude of colors and sizes has definitely further added color and brightness to Rolex’s modern collection. The brightly colored lacquered dials are deemed to be a humble and subtle homage to the now coveted and extremely rare “Stella” dials from the past. Launched in three different sizes, 41mm (ref. 123400), 36mm (ref. 126000) and 31mm (ref. 277200), the lacquered dials were made available in the following colors: yellow, green, coral red, turquoise blue, and pink.
The present example of Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41mm ref. 123400 from circa 2021, sits extremely comfortably on the wrist, and thanks to its now quite desirable turquoise blue dial, is extremely legible when contrasting with the stainless steel case. Announced last spring the discontinuation of this particular variant, the present watch is preserved in barely worn condition complete with its full set of accessories and is a chance for collectors to acquire one right now.
2. ROLEX A highly desirable and sporty stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, guarantee card, and presentation box
Manufacturer Rolex
Year 2018
Reference No. 116500LN
Case No. W7’74L’444
Model Name Cosmograph Daytona
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 4130, 44 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 210mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate
CHF 15,000-25,000
$15,200-25,400
€15,400-25,600
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex guarantee card dated March 09th 2018, warranty booklet, instruction manual, leather card holder, medallion, travel pouch, fitted presentation box, and outer packaging.
Released in 2006, Rolex’s Daytona reference 116500LN carries on its shoulder the long lasting and rich history of the Rolex Daytona. Reference 116500LN is the first reference since the Rolex references 6263 and 6241 bearing a black bezel rather than a metallic one.
The case, at 40mm in diameter remains extremely comfortable and the screw-down pushers do not intrude with neither the watch nor the wrist. The present example is further fitted with a white “panda” dial; however, a black version has also been made available with the same reference. The black ceramic bezel and subdials beautifully contrast the white dial giving the watch that extra sporty look.
Inside, the watch is powered by the in-house caliber 4130, a selfwinding mechanical chronograph movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. Outstandingly reliable the watch boasts a 72-hour power reserve.
Extremely desired and tremendously unattainable the watch has now become one of the most sought-after timepiece from the current Rolex collection. Accompanied by its full set of accessories and in attractive overall condition, the present example is a must have for collectors of both modern and vintage Rolexes.
1. ROLEXPATEK PHILIPPE
sporty and elegant white gold wristwatch with certificate of origin and presentation box
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Reference No. 5168G-010
Movement No. 7’259’129
Case No. 6’339’230
Model Name Aquanaut
Material 18K white gold
Calibre Automatic, cal.324SC, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Rubber
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
42.2mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 60,000-120,000
€61,600-123,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated 11 November 2019, leather wallet, product literature, fitted box and outer packaging.
The Aquanaut reference 5168G was launched originally in 2017 in celebration of the model’s 20th anniversary and came not only with a new case size of 42.2mm but also a new white gold case adding an extra layer of stealth luxury appeal.
The reference 5168 with khaki dial was presented in 2019 and immediately became unobtainable with waiting lists dragging on into multiple years.
In fact the present example with its khaki dial is the perfect iteration of the Aquanaut that is believed to have been originally made upon commission for the armed forces - of a country that has remained anonymous – thus explaining the grenade like pattern on the dial.
The present 5168G is overall excellent condition and complete with its full set of accessories.
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 2019
Reference No. 5524G-001
Movement No. 7’271’212
Case No. 6’314’206
Model Name Calatrava Pilot Travel Time
Material 18K white gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 324 S C FUS, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions 42mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, strap, and buckle signed.
Estimate
CHF 20,000-40,000
$20,300-40,700
€20,500-41,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated December 12th, 2019, product literature, leather envelope, instruction manual, inner fitted box and outer presentation box.
Patek Philippe’s Calatrava Pilot Travel Time was initially released at Baselworld in 2015. Whilst at first it was met with resistance from the collecting community, sentiments have since then definitely changed making it now a sought-after timepiece because of its modern attire, functionality and 21st century looks.
At 42mm in diameter the case is sporty and present on the wrist, however retaining a subtle Calatrava design. The two large correctors present on the left size of the case allow for a quick and easy adjustment of the local time indicator, identifiable by the bold sword minute and hour hand. The second, skeletonized sword hand instead shows home time.
The dial allows for easy readability thanks to the gold-applied oversized Arabic numerals contrasting on a darker varnished dial. Present on the dial at 9 and 3 o’clock one can find two small day/ night apertures for both Local and Home time zone. The local date can be found on the subdial at the 6 o’clock position.
The timepiece houses the well-known self-winding caliber 324 S C FUS, also found on the reference 5164 travel time from the Aquanaut collection.
In barely worn condition, this timepiece definitely exudes sportiness and adventurous vibrations. In tandem with its incredible utility and easy legibility, the timepiece is definitely a must have for the visionaries of the 21st century.
PATEK PHILIPPE A rare and attractive stainless steel annual calendar chronograph wristwatch with day/night indication, green dial, bracelet, certificate of origin and presentation box
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 2022
Reference No. 5905/1A
Movement No. 7’480’425
Case No. 6’520’060
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. CH 28-520 QA 24H, 37 jewels, stamped with the Patek Philippe Seal Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Patek Philippe bracelet stamped “B614AAA” to the endlinks, max length 200mm Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Patek Philipps double deployant clasp
Dimensions 42mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 40,000-80,000
$40,700-81,300
€41,000-82,100
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin stamped by “The Henri Stern Watch Agency NY” and dated May 5, 2022, numbered sale tag, setting pin, product literature, wooden presentation box and outer packaging.
Combining a flyback chronograph and annual calendar complication, reference 5905 was introduced in 2015.
Borrowing aesthetics from annual calendar reference 5205, reference 5905 provided a more complicated upgrade to the beloved model.
Previously only offered in precious metals, the present watch is the newest iteration of the model cased in stainless steel.
Offered with a stunning olive green dial, the result is nothing short of jaw-dropping, a true iteration of sporty luxury.
Most notably, the color of the dial is remarkably similar - if not identical - to the cult reference 5711 with olive green dial, further increasing the desirability of the present watch.
Moreover, it is accompanied by a three-link bracelet inspired by the Aquanaut, amplifying its sporty elegance. This marks the fourth example of the model at auction, and it is an opportunity not to be missed.
Preserved in excellent, virtually “as new” condition - in fact the watch was delivered to the original owner on May 5 - it is accompanied by its Certificate of Origin, presentation box and outer packaging.
Ref. 5905/1A "Annual Calendar Flyback Chronograph"Manufacturer A. Lange & Söhne
Year 2018
Reference No. 191.028
Movement No. 128’770
Case No. 236’629
Model Name Lange 1 “Blue Series”
Material 18K White gold
Calibre Manual, cal. L121.1, 43 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Alligator
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold A. Lange & Söhne pin buckle
Dimensions 38.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 20,000-40,000 ∑
$20,300-40,700
€20,500-41,000
Accessories
Accompanied by A. Lange & Söhne guarantee stamped “Mezger Uhren und Juwelen” dated April 20th, 2018, instruction manual, product literature, cloth, leather folio, fitted presentation box and outer packaging.
Part of a limited series production released in 2017, the A.Lange & Söhne “Blue Series” was part of a selection of restyled models which all featured similar blue dials. The other emblematic models were the Lange 1 Daymatic, Saxonia, and Saxonia Automatic. The series took its interesting blue dial design from older, classical pieces like Lange’s reference 101.027 from the 90’s. Other than the dial color, the Lange 1 remains virtually unchanged, with its asymmetric dial design and carefully designed date windows, which were inspired by the Five-Minute Clock at Semper Opera House in Dresden.
Instantly recognizable, the dial lay out is visually well balanced thanks to the proportions, which were carefully calculated following the Golden Ratio. Inside, the watch houses the 2015 caliber L121.1, a manual wind movement with big date, hour, minute, and small seconds complications boasting a 72 hour power reserve. Furthermore, the balance-cock features the signature artistic flourish engraved by one of Lange’s master engravers.
While the series is not a limited edition, the Blue Series was produced in low numbers and as a one-off production, making it a rare and scarce variant of its kind. Preserved in pristine condition and coming with its original full set of accessories, the timepiece is a modern iteration of Lange’s rich history and certainly an opportunity best not to be missed.
Manufacturer A. Lange & Söhne
Year Circa 2000
Reference No. 101.035
Movement No. 16’794
Case No. 128’254
Model Name Lange 1 “Darth”
Material Platinum
Calibre Manual, cal. L901.0, 53 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Platinum A. Lange & Söhne pin buckle
Dimensions 38.5mm diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 25,000-50,000
$25,400-50,800
€25,600-51,300
Accessories
Accompanied with A. Lange & Söhne Certificate, fitted presentation box, and outer packaging.
Since the launch of A. Lange & Söhne’s Lange 1 in 1994, the noteworthy asymmetric dial design, that embodies the perfect ratio and architecture of the golden triangle has been a success and is beloved by collectors.
Amongst the collection, the Lange 1 reference 101.035 was produced in small quantities exclusively between 19992006 and sets itself apart from its breed. Cased in platinum with a distinctive monochromatic all black configuration and a handsome “white on black” date disc, the model was nicknamed by collectors “Darth” and enjoys a cult-like following.
This Darth, sized at 38.5mm in diameter, is not only an early production of the Lange 1, but also an early example within the Darth series. This can be defined by the two hallmarks stamped on the caseback instead of 4 like in later examples, as well as the absence of anti-reflective coating on the crystals like the present example.
The aesthetics of the movement displaying artistic flourished engravings and technical brilliance of the calibre L.901.0 operates with a 72-hour power reserve. Praised by scarcity and collectability, this timepiece suited in a desirable black appeal and is offered in excellent condition and accompanied by its certificate and accessories.
Manufacturer Audemars Piguet
Year 2022
Reference No. 16202BA.OO.1240BA.01
Movement No. BG0248
Case No. GH8793A
Model Name Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin “50th Anniversary”
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 7121, 33 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K yellow gold Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions 39mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 50,000-100,000
$50,800-102,000
€51,300-103,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Royal Oak 50th Anniversary certificate of origin dated April 26, 2022 in Paris, Audemars Piguet warranty card, instruction manual, product literature, hang tag, traveling leather box, outer packaging and fitted presentation box.
To celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet launched the reference 16202BA in yellow gold as a tribute to the original Royal Oak model. Measuring 39mm diameter, the watch is a faithful homage to the original reference 5402BA and the 20th anniversary model 14802BA, with the biggest changes being the new inhouse calibre 7121,
replacing the five decade-old calibre 2121, and a mesmerizing smoked yellow gold-toned dial that would make more than one collector dream.
The new movement features an upgraded power reserve of 55 hours with a new quick-set date mechanism. Part of an extremely scarce production of only 100 pieces for 2022, its new owner will be able to admire the new 22K yellow gold “50-years” rotor mounted on ball bearings, which can only be found on watches delivered within that same year.
But what truly hypnotizes its beholder is the dial: a fiery, sunsetlike gradient dial ranging from yellow gold in the centre to smoky black in the periphery. Playing with the proportions of the watch, the polarized dégradé effect gives a completely new perspective and an incredible personality to the watch. The yellow gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak luminescent hands complement to perfection this newly dictated aesthetics with the date window matching the colour of the “Petite Tapisserie” dial. While the previous yellow gold Jumbo Royal Oak was all about homogeneity with a tone-on-tone dial, this new combination of colours brings back energy and freshness to the landmark which is the Royal Oak.
Delivered in the Paris boutique earlier this year, the present example is offered by the original owner and remains unworn. With the most attractive tropical-inspired dial, it will certainly appeal to the enthusiastic collector of modern haute horlogerie.
All proceeds exceeding the cost for the consignor will be donated to charities supporting access to medical care for families in need and orphanages.
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 2017
Reference No. 5726/1A-001
Movement No. 7’049’758
Case No. 6’181’540
Model Name Nautilus
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 324 S QA LU 24H/303, 34 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Patek Philippe bracelet, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Patek Philippe deployant clasp Dimensions 42mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 35,000-70,000
$35,600-71,200
€35,900-71,800
Accessories
Accompanied by Certificate of Origin dated June 12, 2017, product literature, leather wallet, Patek Philippe fitted box and outer packaging.
In 1996, Patek Philippe patented the Annual Calendar complication, a new mechanism that took into account the different lengths of the months and required only one annual adjustment in February. The legibility of the calendar functions were made easy thanks to the month and day that were indicated via two apertures on the top part of the dial whereas the date, moonphases and 24 hours indication were placed elegantly on the lower part of the dial.
In a bold move, Patek Philippe decided to merge fine complications and sports chic by launching a Nautilus housing this intelligent and useful complication.
The present reference 5726/1A-001 is the second variation of the Annual Calendar Nautilus launched in 2012, which, for the first time was offered with the iconic Nautilus satin and mirror finished stainless steel bracelet.
Housed in the immediately recognizable case designed by Gerald Genta, this annual calendar movement displays its indications on a beautiful dark grey dial.
Preserved in barely worn condition, fresh to the market and consigned by the original owner, the present watch is complete with its Certificate of Origin dated June 12, 2017, product literature, leather wallet, Patek Philippe fitted box and outer packaging.
Manufacturer Audemars Piguet
Year 1999
Reference No. 25721BC
Movement No. 429’039
Case No. 009 and D80870
Model Name Royal Oak Offshore
Material 18K white gold
Calibre Automatic, cal 2226/2840, 54 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K white gold Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 210mm
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions 42mm diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 50,000-100,000
$50,800-102,000
€51,300-103,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Digital Extract, presentation box and outer packaging.
The Audemars Piguet reference 25721 was released in 1993, initially produced and offered in stainless steel, the model was later cased also in other metals such as titanium yellow gold.
According to our most recent research, around 15 examples of white gold reference 25721 like the present example were made until 2008, making the present white gold Offshore a incredibly rare collector’s piece.
Nicknamed “The Beast” thanks to its oversized 42mm diameter case, the Offshore paved the way for bigger diameter cases to be accepted as contemporary and the “norm” for today’s market standards. The model since its initial release has garnered extreme commercial success and has since seen over 100 different variations since its initial debut in 1993.
Beautifully present on the wrist, the Royal Oak Offshore resembles in case and dial design its older sibling the Royal Oak. Featuring a small tapisserie pattern, silicon-capped pushers and crown, an integrated bracelet with thick rounded links, the timepiece is powered by the Jaeger-LeCoultre based cal. 2226/2840.
Most notably and extremely rare to be seen in this reference and case combination, the present dial features beautiful diamond-set hour markers which were fitted exclusively to white gold examples. The diamonds add a touch of charm and beauty against the “brutality” of the beast, think of - beauty within the beast.
Preserved in very appealing condition, The present Royal Oak Offshore ref. 25721BC is an extremely rare gem featuring a rich blue dial and bedazzling diamond hour markers. From 1999 the present timepiece comes with its presentation box, outer packaging and digital Extract.
Manufacturer Rolex
2017
Reference No. 116589SALV
Movement No. 3L8W9893
Case No. M810556
Model Name Cosmograph Daytona
Material 18K white gold, rubies and rubellite
Calibre Automatic, cal. 4130, 44 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 100,000-200,000 ∑
$102,000-203,000
€103,000-205,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex guarantee dated 2017, hang tag, presentation box and outer packaging.
Rolex is incredibly imaginative in its use of precious materials. Heavy and luxurious, the present watch is fitted with a beautiful grossular garnet rubellite dial, which has been preserved in excellent condition throughout the years. As each stone occurs naturally, no two rubellite dials are identical in appearance. Each one varies in shade and color, giving each timepiece its own singular appearance. The dial is furthermore set with diamonds in white gold chatons. As an even nicer touch, the bezel is set with rubies, which are incredibly vibrant and eye-catching.
Still displaying the original factory stickers, the case is preserved in excellent condition with crisp and legible hallmarks beneath the lugs. All original factory finishes are present, furthermore enhancing this timepiece’s appeal.
The timepiece is furthermore accompanied by its original guarantee, hang tag and presentation box.
extremely impressive
possibly
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1986
Reference No. 6263
Case No. 9’323’644
Model Name Cosmograph Daytona
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 210mm
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp stamped K6
Dimensions 37.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 100,000-200,000
$102,000-203,000
€103,000-205,000
This reference 6263 cased in yellow gold is a very impressive example, and most notably features a dial displaying “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified”. During the early 1970s, Rolex began to submit their yellow gold Cosmographs for chronometer certification. While the very first examples displayed an “Oyster Split” designation, later examples, such as this particular configuration displayed the COSC designation directly below “Rolex Oyster”. Adding to its charm and desirability, these subsidiary registers have started to show a hint of becoming tropical and are turning a deep espresso tone.
Possibly unpolished, the present watch displays all factory finishes, from the crisp finishes on the top of the lugs, to the multi faceted bezel, and even the crisp hallmarks beneath the lugs. The razor-sharp edges, along with contrasting polished and brushed finishes are impressive.
Manufacturer Audemars Piguet
Year Circa 1995
Reference No. 25721BA
Movement No. 449’699
Case No. D91691, 053
Model Name Royal Oak Offshore "El Dorado"
Material 18K Yellow gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 2126/2840, 51 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K yellow gold Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Audemars Piguet double deployant clasp stamped “W4”
Dimensions 42mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 50,000-100,000
$50,800-102,000
€51,300-103,000
Accessories
Accompanied by undated/unstamped Audemars Piguet Certificat d’Origine et de Garantie, numbered sale tag, octagonal leather presentation box and outer packaging.
The Royal Oak was already disruptive in 1972 when it was launched but in the early 1990s, Audemars Piguet tasked its in-house designer Emmanuel Gueit to push the boundaries and reinvent the classic Royal Oak and infuse it with new life and power. By keeping the signature case/bezel shape and tapisserie dial, Gueit managed to create a timepiece that would inspire sports watches that would follow, projected into the new millennium, but also true to its roots. The model was presented in 1993: the Royal Oak Offshore, a watch whose design and attitude were so rambunctious that it caused controversy even within Audemars Piguet.
The first generation of Royal Oak Offshores were shortly thereafter nicknamed “The Beast” due to what was, at the time, its astonishing 42mm case size. The Offshore was revolutionary, and arguably, it established the trend for large-sized watches, becoming the norm in today’s modern production watches.
The present example of the model is a fascinating testament to the charm and attractiveness a watch can achieve if not bothered with cosmetic interventions. Indeed, this is a timepiece unpolished but thoroughly, although respectfully, enjoyed for its entire lifetime.
Offered completed with not only its certificate and box, but also with its numbered sale tag (showing the full reference number with 01 at the end, identifying the golden dial), this is without a doubt one of the most striking examples of the model to appear on the market.
Manufacturer Vacheron Constantin
Year 1978
Reference No. 44018/411
Movement No. 686’089
Case No. 522’171
Model Name 222
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 1121, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Vacheron Constantin bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Vacheron Constantin deployant clasp Dimensions 38mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 30,000-60,000
$30,500-61,000
€30,800-61,600
Accessories
Accompanied by Vacheron Constantin Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1978.
Launched in 1977 for the brand’s 222th anniversary, reference 44018 is better known as the Vacheron Constantin 222.
This reference is part of what could be called the “Holy Three” or the three watches that propelled steel sports watches to the rank of icons in the 70s. This trilogy brings together Audemars
Piguet Royal Oak from 1972, Patek Philippe Nautilus from 1976 and Vacheron Constantin’s 222 from 1977. These iconic watches share the same famous movement base, Jaeger LeCoultre’s caliber 920, modified here by the manufacture Vacheron Constantin to become the ultra-thin, automatic caliber 1121. Although their designs are very similar, the Vacheron Constantin 222 differs from these two “cousins” by its designer; in fact, the 222 was designed by the young Jorg Hysek, then 24 years old. Incidentally, Jean-Marc Vacheron was also 24 years old when he first officially founded Vacheron Constantin on September 17th, 1755.
The 222 was always fitted with an integrated bracelet of the same metal as the case and was available either in stainless steel, yellow gold or a combination of stainless steel and yellow gold.
The 222 rapidly reached a cult status amongst the steel casual/ chic watches thanks to its incredibly low production numbers and distinctive design. In fact, research shows that the stainless steel model was made in less than 500 pieces. It is with great enthusiasm that collectors welcome the relaunched of this model in yellow gold earlier this year in 2022.
In overall very attractive condition, the present watch is part of the earliest examples known as it was made in 1978, the second year of production of the 222.
PATEK PHILIPPE A highly rare and attractive platinum perpetual chronograph wristwatch with moonphases, 24-hour indication, leap year indication, certificate of origin, additional case back, hang tag, setting pin and presentation box
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Reference No. 5970P
Movement No. 3’931’332
Case No. 4’490’826
Material Platinum
Calibre Manual, cal. CH 27-70 Q, 24
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Platinum Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 120,000-200,000
$122,000-203,000
€123,000-205,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated October 22nd 2009, additional case back, hang tag, slip case, presentation box and outer packaging.
Manufactured from 2004 to 2011, reference 5970 was Patek Philippe’s very last perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch series to use a Lemania 2310 based movement. With the introduction of successor reference 5270, Patek Philippe used its own in-house movement.
Due to its generous and modern case proportions, this reference is a favorite among the watch community. Since the model stopped production, it has only increased in popularity and collectability. Compared to its predecessor, reference 3970, reference 5970 has a much larger and heftier case size of 40 millimeters.
While the reference has enjoyed variations such as different gem-set bezels and various dial designs, examples cased in platinum like this watch are the true classics. The black dial immediately distinguishes the case metal, as does the subtle diamond between 6 o’clock - both indicate Patek Philippe’s use of platinum.
Fresh to the auction market, the present watch is offered with an additional case back, setting pin and its original certificate. Preserved in excellent condition, it’s today an icon that represents the golden age of watch making.
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year Circa 2005
Reference No. 5970R
Movement No. 3’048’209
Case No. 4’365’940
Material 18K pink gold
Calibre Manual, cal. 27-70 Q, 24 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Alligator
Clasp/Buckle 18K pink gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp stamped “F/B”
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 100,000-200,000 ∑
$102,000-203,000
€103,000-205,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin, setting pin, additional case back, product literature, wallet, presentation box and outer packaging.
Released in 2004, the Patek Philippe reference 5970 was one of the shortest production runs from the Maison, lasting approximately 6 years from 2004 to 2011. This very reference was the last perpetual calendar chronograph model to use the Lemania 2310 based movement.
Proud heir to Patek Philippe’s prestigious perpetual calendar chronographs starting with reference 1518, 2499 and 3970, the reference 5970 was the first model developed and designed by Thierry Stern upon his taking the reins of the brand. The reference 5970 in pink gold, like the present example, along side the white gold version was the first variant introduced in 2004 and remained in production until 2009.
The timepiece itself is an avantgarde looking Patek Philippe with inspiration from the past. Cased at 40mm in diameter with facetted lugs, the timepiece is elegantly larger than a 3970 and it definitely makes for a more very legible dial. It is noteworthy that the bigger case does not jeopardize the symmetry and comfort of the watch at all, on the contrary in a unique Patek Philippe way the watch is pleasant and still retains a very balanced symmetry.
The tachymeter scale perfectly encircles the day and month windows which themselves are perfectly clear and legible. The three subdials are also perfectly aligned and in symmetry with the outer dial as well as with the minutes, hours, and chronograph hands.
Preserved in excellent overall condition with its full set of accessories, additional caseback and setting pin this is a rare opportunity to obtain one of Patek Philippe’s last classical perpetual calendar chronograph models in pink gold.
An elegant and fine white gold chronograph wristwatch with perpetual calendar, moonphases, 24-hour indication, leap year indication, certificate of origin, additional caseback, setting pin and presentation box
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 2007
Reference No. 5970G
Movement No. 3’048’645
Case No. 4’315’123
Material 18K white gold
Calibre Manual, cal. CH 27-70 Q, 24 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Alligator
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp stamped “F/B”
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 100,000-200,000 ∑
$102,000-203,000
€103,000-205,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin stamped by Kansas, US retailer “Tivoli Inc” and dated April 25, 2007, additional solid caseback, setting pin, leather wallet, product literature, fitted presentation box and outer packaging.
Released in 2004, the Patek Philippe reference 5970 was one of the shortest production runs for the company, lasting approximately 6 years from 2004 to 2011. This very reference was the last perpetual calendar chronograph model to use the Lemania 2310 based movement.
Proud heir to Patek Philippe’s prestigious perpetual calendar chronographs starting with reference 1518, 2499 and 3970, the reference 5970 was the first model developed and designed by Thierry Stern upon his accession as president of the company.
The reference 5970 in white gold, like the present example, along side the the pink gold version was the first variant introduced in 2004 and remained in production until 2009.
The timepiece itself is an avantgarde looking Patek Philippe however with strong correlation and inspiration from the past.
Cased at 40mm in diameter with facetted lugs, the timepiece is elegantly larger than a 3970 and it definitely makes for a more spacious dialfor better legibility. It is noteworthy that the bigger case does not jeopardize the symmetry and comfort of the watch at all, on the contrary in a unique Patek Philippe way the watch is pleasant and still retains a very balanced symmetry.
The tachymeter scale perfectly encircles the day and month windows which themselves are perfectly clear and legible.
The three subdials are also perfectly aligned and in symmetry with the outer dial as well as with the minutes, hours, and chronograph hands.
Preserved in excellent overall condition with its full set of accessories, additional caseback and setting pin this is a rare opportunity to obtain one of Patek Philippe’s last classical perpetual calendar chronograph models in white gold.
PATEK PHILIPPE A rare and attractive yellow gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases, 24-hour indication, leap year indication, setting pin, additional case back, original certificate and fitted presentation box
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 2009
Reference No. 5970J
Movement No. 3’049’744
Case No. 4’462’758
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, cal. CH 27-70Q, 24 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Alligator
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions 40mm Diamter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 80,000-160,000 ∑
$81,300-163,000
€82,100-164,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated August 22, 2009, additional case back, hang tag, setting pin, presentation box and outer packaging.
Reference 5970 is the proud heir to Patek Philippe’s legacy of perpetual calendar chronographs starting with the reference 1518, followed by the 2499 and 3970.
Launched in 2004 and in production for only 7 short years (making it the shortest run for any perpetual calendar chronograph model by Patek Philippe), reference 5970 was discontinued in 2010 and replaced by reference 5270 that houses Patek Philippe’s first in-house chronograph caliber. Reference 5970 relied on a heavily modified Lemania base movement.
Whereas the reference 2499 (2nd series onward) and reference 3970 featured round pushers, reference 5970 comes with rectangular pushers giving it an incomparable resemblance to the highly coveted and über rare reference 2499 1st series.
Upon launch, this model became an instant success and since its discontinuation, it has only increased in popularity and collectability.
While the reference has enjoyed variations such as different gem-set bezels and various dial designs, examples cased in yellow gold like the present watch are believed to be the rarest metal. The present watch is furthermore offered as a full set with its Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated August 22, 2009, additional case back, hang tag, setting pin, presentation box and outer packaging.
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 2014
Reference No. 5070G-014
Movement No. 3’715’665
Case No. 4’631’628
Material 18K white gold
Calibre Manual, cal. CH 27-70, 24 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions 42mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 200,000-400,000
$203,000-407,000
€205,000-410,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin stamped Salons Patek Philippe and dated 06th June, 2014, leather portfolio with photographs, instruction manual, product literature, leather document holder, outer packaging and fitted presentation box.
Initially introduced in 1998, Patek Philippe’s reference 5070 was the Maison’s first non-perpetual calendar chronograph in close to 40 years. The watch houses Patek Philippe’s manualwinding caliber CH 27-70, based upon a remodeled Lemania 2310 ébauche. Considered one of the finest chronograph movement designs, the movement is wonderfully finished with a signature Geneva seal and a 60 hours power reserve. Today, it has become an icon, representing one of Patek Philippe’s most fruitful periods in terms of creation and design.
While the reference officially ceased production in 2009, Patek Philippe had quietly granted their very best clients the opportunity to choose unique dials for the hallowed model, years after its official discontinuation. Never officially published in the catalog and always done with a shroud of secrecy, special order timepieces represent the uppermost echelons of collecting - discussed by many, granted to very few.
The present watch, cased in white gold, most notably displays a stunning and striking salmon dial which was possibly made upon special order. While the general public knows that Patek Philippe created a small batch of re-issued models for their Watch Art Grand Exhibition at the Saatchi Gallery in London in 2015, less is known about the custom, special orders that the manufacture created for their very best clients prior to the exhibition, which were sold in the Patek Philippe salon in Geneva. In fact, the present watch is accompanied by a Certificate of Origin dated in 2014, meaning that the watch was ordered well before the London event, and exclusively for a VIP client. It was a precursor to the now mythical limited batch of Salmon reference 5070s that have gained a cult following among the watch community.
Offered with its complete set of accessories, fresh to the market and in gorgeous condition, it marks the first time this configuration appears on the market, and represents an opportunity to acquire a historically important watch within the world of custom, special order timepieces.
calendar
sought-after
example known with Extract-confirmed black
Patek Philippe is known for being one of the most “strict” watch producers. Special request pieces - such as examples with case metals or dial colors different from the standard - are hardly ever granted, and only to their most exclusive clients. Such a restricted output combined with the elected buyers - which are obviously generally not inclined to sell their custom order Patek Philippe - resulted in the near mythical status of special order Patek Philippe timepieces.
If such a concept is true for modern pieces, when it comes to vintage ones it is even more marked, given the overall much lower output for vintage models. One of the characteristic that is common to nearly all vintage complicated - perpetual calendar and above - Patek Philippe wristwatches (and most of the
PATEK PHILIPPE A highly elusive, extremely sought-after and supremely impressive yellow gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases, glossy black dial with gilt graphics. The only example known with Extract-confirmed black dial
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 1963
Reference No. 2499
Movement No. 869’332
Case No. 2’632’524
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, cal. 13’’’, 23 jewels, stamped with the Geneva Seal
Bracelet/Strap Alligator
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions 37.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 400,000-800,000 ∑
$407,000-813,000
€410,000-821,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives dated September 16, 1996 confirming production of this watch with black dial in 1964 and its subsequent sale on January 29, 1965; Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives dated May 30, 1997 stating that the watch was examined at Patek Philippe workshop and the company guarantees for the validity of the provided information and confirming production of the present watch with black dial and applied yellow gold indexes.
No black vintage minute repeater wristwatches are known. Even assuming a few obscure pieces have eluded this list, considering we are talking of the entire complicated production of the company over about half a century, it is obvious that the level of rarity of black variations is beyond stellar.
While one might be baffled by such scarcity, especially when considering the incredible aesthetic impacts of black dial pieces, it can be explained by the fact that Patek Philippe always considered themselves the foremost producers of high-end timepieces, with a focus on complicated and evening watches. If that is true today (even amidst the success of their sport watch lines), 50 years ago it was the absolute linchpin of their philosophy. Thus, a piece as refined as a ref. 2499 donning a sporty black dial was something they were extremely recalcitrant to create.
When they did do it, however, the result is absolutely mindblowing as anyone can immediately notice when admiring this superb example. In this instance, the surface of the dial offers an outstandingly well preserved gloss/mirror finish free of any signs of ageing or wear. The graphics are realised with gold ink, ensuring perfect contrast with the dial and, at the same time, reprising the gold color of the case for a stunning final ensemble.
20. PATEK PHILIPPE A highly elusive, extremely sought-after and supremely impressive yellow gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases, glossy black dial with gilt graphics. The only example known with Extract-confirmed black dial
The timepiece was originally sold in 1963 and first appeared at public sale 30 years later, in 1994, with a silvered dial. It then reappeared in 2000 with the present dial when it was acquired by the current owner. It is beyond doubt that the dial was installed by Patek Philippe, as it bears the last three digits of the movement on the inside of the dial bracing ring, thus linking dial and movement unequivocally. Furthermore, the watch is consigned with two Extracts from the Archives which suggest the exact timeline of this intervention.
A first Extract dated September 1996 mentions the original black dial, and a second one dated May 1997 mentions the black dial with applied gold indexes and furthermore mentions that “This watch has been examined at our workshop and we guarantee the validity of the information provided ”, turning effectively the Extract into a Certificate of Authenticity - which is not a standard Patek Philippe service, but it is known to have been - very rarely - granted to some important clients for equally important watches. It is easy to deduce that the owner of the watch received in 1996 the first Extract stating the watch was born with black dial, and subsequently asked Patek Philippe to bring the watch back to its original configuration. The company gracefully agreed, linked to the watch a new-oldstock glossy black dial made, judging by the Sigma APRIOR “Swiss” designation and by the production techniques, most likely in the 80s, and then issued the new Extract in 1997 with the more detailed dial description and the written guarantee of authenticity - as they had just fully examined the watch.
As a result, the present timepiece not only is the only example of 2499 confirmed to have been born with a black dial, but furthermore, thanks to Patek Philippe intervention, it features a dial in absolutely stunning condition.
In fact, out of the 6 known black ref. 2499s, this is the only example whose Extract is known to openly confirm the original presence of a black dial, as one can see in the following table.
no. 869’332 - this watch, confirmed black dial no. 869’442 - sold at auction in 2021, Extract does not mention black dial no. 869’468 - sold at auction in 2020, Extract mentions black dial as later upgrade no. 868’764 - sold at auction in 2010, confirmed born with silvered dial no. 868’590 - sold at auction in 1996, no info available about the Extract no. 868’349 - known from literature, no info available about Extract
Given all of the above, the collector will realise the momentous occasion that the re-appearance after 22 years of this watch on the market is, and be sure that it might be years before he or she is afforded the chance of procuring themselves one of the most hallowed wristwatch models in the world in its arguably most striking and rare configuration, and furthermore the only example so far confirmed by the Extract to have been born with a black dial.
In June 2022 the Zenith X Voutilainen X Phillips 10 piece limited edition platinum Cal 135-O was presented and sold out within a matter of minutes. We are delighted to offer an 11th yet unique example but this time cased in Niobium with a lively salmon dial.
The story of the birth of this project is first and foremost one of trust and friendship. Following the launch of two Phillips edition Zenith El Primero models in 2019, we reached out to Zenith asking if they would be interested in working together again but this time using the iconic vintage caliber 135 if any were still available.
A few weeks later Zenith came back to us claiming that not only had they found a very small stock of Cal 135 but that these calibers were the "serial winners" having participated in the prestigious Neuchatel Observatory trials in 1950-1954, thus the O for observatory following the caliber number.
Caliber 135 was designed with Observatory trials in mind and was designed with a 30mm diameter (the maximum dimension to enter the wristwatch category competition) and a 5mm height. Its design was based on the idea of having an extremely large 14mm balance wheel to enhance precision and rate stability, and a large barrel to deliver consistent power to the regulator.
The Calibre 135 was produced from 1949 to 1962 in two distinct versions: a commercial variant, and an “O” iteration made solely for observatory chronometry competitions. Never commercialized, The Calibre 135-O received over 230 chronometry prizes, an absolute record in the history of watchmaking.
These movements - with Guillaume balance - were prepared for the competitions and fine-tuned yearlong by the Zenith “chronométriers” Charles Fleck and René Gygax. Each of them was awarded prizes in the first category range.
Observatory movements are competition grade movements and were not made to be cased and sold, as such their overall finish was utilitarian and not aesthetic. Furthermore, the movements having been dormant for over 65 years needed to be disassembled, each component tested, tolerances checked, oiled and reassembled. We believed that this could have only be done by one master watchmaker who not only had a huge experience in vintage movement restoration but who’s dexterity and talent was appreciated by all: Kari Voutilainen.
Between June 2020 and June 2022 Voutilainen and his team painstakingly took apart every movement, refurbished them and made them completely fit to be cased in a wristwatch, adding the signature "Voutilainen" finish along the way.
ZENITH X VOUTILAINEN X PHILLIPS A unique niobium wristwatch with observatory grade movement and Guillaume balance, with proceeds going to charity
Manufacturer Zenith X Voutilainen X Phillips
Year 1953/2022
Movement No. 3'951'072
Case No. Caseback engraved "Unique Piece"
Model Name 135-O
Material Niobium
Calibre Manual, cal. 135-O
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Titanium pin buckle
Dimensions 38mm Diameter
Signed Case signed Zenith, Kari Voutilainen and Phillips, Bacs & Russo
Dial signed Zenith Movement signed Zenith and Kari Voutilainen
11 movements were available but only 10 were cased in platinum with a black dial. It was decided from the get go that the 11th movement would be used in a unique piece to be sold for charity.
We wanted to have a piece completely different from the limited edition models and as such it was decided to case the movement in niobium – a metal rarely if ever used in watchmaking, with a unique sheen. The dial is salmon in color with guilloché exterior, the movement number is printed in the seconds subdial and the movement also has a pink gold finish (as opposed to the gilt finish of the limited edition models).
The movement used within dates from 1953 and ran in the Neuchatel Observatory trials the same year where it received the highest points.
Estimate
CHF 100,000-200,000 •
$102,000-203,000
€103,000-205,000
Accessories
Accompanied by fitted box, guarantee, copy of Neuchatel Observatory trial results and outer packaging.
All proceeds of the sale will go to the Susan G. Komen Breast Cancer Foundation , a foundation whose mission is to save lives by meeting the most critical needs in communities and investing in breakthrough research to prevent and cure breast cancer.
Manufacturer F.P. Journe
Year 2004
Case No. 014-04RN
Model Name Chronomètre à Résonance
Material Platinum
Calibre Manual, cal. 1499, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap F.P. Journe alligator strap
Clasp/Buckle Platinum F.P. Journe pin buckle
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 140,000-280,000 ∑
$142,000-285,000
€144,000-287,000
Accessories
Accompanied by F.P. Journe undated Warranty card stamped by Italian retailer “Barozzi Ennio”, additional platinum F.P. Journe pin buckle, additional black leather F.P. Journe strap, additional grey leather F.P. Journe strap, instruction booklet, polishing cloth, wooden presentation box and outer packaging.
Following its debut with a tourbillon timepiece, F.P. Journe’s second release in 2000 was no less technically impressive and has gone on to become an icon and cornerstone of the brand’s production: the Résonance. Tackling what until a few years ago was an obscure physical phenomenon - the fact that
two movements placed in close proximity to each other and regulated to a very similar frequency tend to resonate with each other - Journe managed to produce a wristwatch with dual resonating movements which increase each other’s resistance to outside perturbations.
In 2004 the second generation of the model (the “RN” series) was launched. Represented by the present timepiece it differentiates itself from the earlier production for its larger 40mm case (versus the 38mm of the first iteration) and the presence of a solid gold movement. Most notably, the two dials still bear, like for the previous version, identical 12 hours indication. This is the last version to bear such a detail as from the third generation on, Resonance watches have been fitted with two different dials: one indicating 12 hours, the other indicating 24 hours. Indeed, the third generation (RT series) feature a 24 hours disc indication on the left subdial (though there are limited editions made with analogic dial as well, albeit always indicating 24 hours), and finally the recently released fourth iteration (RQ series) goes back to analogic indications.
Adding a layer of historical appeal, the present watch appears to be one of the earliest 2nd generation specimens made: the serial number 13-04 indicates it was the thirteenth such watch made in 2004, the year of its launch - thus it is the 13th 2nd generation Resonance to leave Journe’s atelier. This is a remarkable chance for the collector of important modern timepiece to own a Résonance.
VOUTILAINEN An exceedingly rare and important white gold wristwatch with regulator style display and observatory movement, with guarantee and box
Manufacturer Voutilainen
Year 2009
Movement No. 12’586’479
Model Name Chronomètre 27
Material 18K white gold
Calibre Manual, Longines 360 ébauche, 21 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Voutilainen deployant clasp
Dimensions 44mm Length and 35.5mm Width
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 50,000-100,000
$50,800-102,000
€51,300-103,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Voutilainen guarantee, paperwork for the fitted box, polishing cloth, fitted box and outer packaging.
Literature
Kari Voutilainen and his works are featured in Kari Voutilainen Horlogerie d’Art by Theodore Diehl as well as in Watchmakers, The Masters of Art Horology by Maxima Gallery pp. 228-247 and in Twelve faces of Time, Horological Virtuosos by Elisabeth Doerr and Ralf Baumgarten pp. 90-105
Kari Voutilainen came to the public eye with the creation of his “Observatoire” wristwatches, based on a Peseux 260 ebauche. A few years later, in 2008, he once again used another emblematic chronometer movement, this time based on the incredible Longines 360.
The Longines 360 caliber was completely devised from the ground up with observatory competitions in mind - it was a rectangular movement with a cutting edge (for the time) high frequency of 36,000 VPH, which subsequently won numerous prizes at the Neuchatel Observatory trials. With a total of 498 Bulletins de Marche, calibre 360 claims the most number of successful submissions of any wristwatch-sized chronometer calibre between 1959 and 1967!
Being movements made for competition, the aesthetics were put aside. That is where Voutilainen’s genius came to play - he disassembled each component and meticulously hand-finished them with beveling, perlage, gilding and frosting, each to the highest levels of visual and technical perfection possible. Furthermore, the Guillaume balance was fitted with a Breguet overcoil and Grosmann internal curve for maximum precision.
Housed in a large white gold rectangular case with lugs reminiscent of Voutilainen’s tear drop lugs the watch has a regulator type dial layout with hours indicated via a central hand, hours at 12 o’clock and seconds at 6 o’clock.
According to Voutilainen around 22 Chronomètre 27 pieces in both white and pink gold were made.
Manufacturer F.P. Journe
Year 2011
Case No. 47/68
Model Name Vagabondage II
Material 18K pink gold
Calibre Manual, cal. 1509, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K pink gold FP Journe deployant clasp
Dimensions 45.2 Length and 37.5 mm Width
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 120,000-240,000
$122,000-244,000
€123,000-246,000
Accessories
Accompanied by F.P. Journe Authenticity Certificate confirming production in 2011, fitted box and outer packaging.
The story of Journe’s Vagabondage series is an unusual one. It starts off in the 1990s when a watch brand contacted the young François-Paul, who had not yet launched his eponymous brand, for a wandering hour wristwatch. The project never came to fruition, but Journe kept the idea and in 2004 created three unique jump hour watches in a very elegant “tortue” case shape (yellow, pink and white gold) to be sold at auction for charity.
He followed up with a limited edition of 69 pieces in platinum that sold out rapidly and even more impressively from word of mouth as the watch was never publicized.
Released in 2010, the Vagabondage II was F.P. Journe’s second timepiece featuring a tortue-shaped case and made in an ultralimited edition of 69 pieces in platinum, 68 in pink gold of which the present model is number 47 and 10 pieces in platinum with baguette diamonds.
Vagabondage in French makes reference to "errance", or roaming - a very fitting name for a digital display. The hours are indicated via a window on the top part of the dial, minutes are indicated via two discs and subseconds are classically placed at 6 o’clock. A power reserve indicator sits atop all the time telling indications.
Interestingly and quite unusually no brand name is mentioned on the dial but a cavalcade of details display the brand’s unmistakable genetic codes. The watch houses the in-house caliber 1509, a form movement, in pink gold, fitting perfectly into the case, beautifully finished, and features a constant force device that ensures that the energy from the mainspring is equally distributed with no loss each time the discs jump.
Part of an ultra-limited number of 68 pieces, the Vagabondage II is certainly a rare and unorthodox timepiece befitting he collector of the extraordinary.
Manufacturer Christian Klings
Year 2016
Model Name Tourbillon n°2
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual wind Klings caliber
Dimensions 46.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate
CHF 60,000-120,000
$61,000-122,000
€61,600-123,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Registration papers, technical drawings, photos and fitted box.
Considering that Christian Klings has made about 30 watches in his close to three decade career, it is always with great emotion that collectors welcome one of the master’s creations to the market. Klings, a German born and based watchmaker is known by the cognoscenti for his superlative timepieces made by hand using traditional watchmaking methods. The design of each watch is first sketched with pen on paper – he never uses computers in his work.
Each component bears the differences of handmade work, leaving slight variants in the texture of the Geneva stripes or guilloché work of the dial. Klings is as much an artist as he is a watchmaker and thus focuses on creating bespoke timepieces upon commission from savvy collectors.
The present Tourbillon n°2 pocket features a self-starting detent tourbillon, not only an incredibly difficult movement to master but in this case, a world first. A grail of chronometry and the result of a historical pursuit for precision, the detent (or chronometer) escapement is one of the most accurate types of escapements. Developed in the mid-18th Century, it was mostly used in marine chronometers. In the detent escapement, the balance wheel swings undisturbed during most of its cycle, except the brief impulse period, which is only given once per cycle (which explains why the seconds hand is only moving 3 times per second for a frequency of 21’600 vibrations per hour). It runs virtually without friction and the escape wheel teeth do not require oiling. The greatest downfall of the detent escapement was the fact that it was very sensitive to shocks which result in the escapement from stopping, furthermore it is not self-starting meaning the watch needs a little shake to get the escapement running.
With his Tourbillon n°2 Klings has devised an ingenious selfstarting system whereby an extra pair of springs connected to the gear train lock the balance once the mainspring is empty. Once wound up, the movement of the gear train unlocks the spring, releasing the balance wheel. According to Klings he started working on a self-starting detent tourbillon around 2001 but the project only saw the light of day in 2016. The watch furthermore features a power reserve display, jumping seconds and a moonphases display. The rarity, beauty and complexity of the present timepiece make it the crown jewel of any collection.
Manufacturer Vianney Halter
Year 2022
Movement No. Movement engraved “Prototype”
Model Name La Résonance
Material Titanium
Calibre Manual, cal. VH22, 50 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Alligator
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Vianney Halter pin buckle
Dimensions 39mm Diameter
Signed Dial and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 100,000-200,000 ∑
$102,000-203,000
€103,000-205,000
Vianney Halter’s world is populated with 19th century machines, science fiction paraphernalia and an overall general childish curiosity for everything. After having stunned the horological world with his steampunk creations in the late 1990s with the Antiqua, the Trio or the Classique (please see lot 46) he completely changed his aesthetics with the creation of his Deep Space Tourbillon and Tourbillon Resonance that showed his inspiration from Sci-Fi.
His latest creation, the La Résonance, has all the philosophy of Halter in one piece and aesthetically closer to his earlier Steampunk inspired works.
Presented at Watches and Wonders in April 2022, La Résonance is Halter’s take on the resonance phenomenon
originally devised by Antide Janvier (in clocks) and Breguet (in pocket watches) whereby the timepiece features two balances in close proximity to create the resonance effect and beat in opposition, naturally evening out each other’s discrepancies and thus permitting greater accuracy.
Halter’s La Résonance features two balances stacked one upon another and incorporates a differential that directs power from a pair of mainsprings to each of the separate gear trains. The balances are mounted on a shared balance bridge while the hairsprings share a common stud holder to maximize energy transmission and strengthen the coupling force.
Another tour de force is the movement’s construction that does not feature a single plate but is constructed with bridges and large wheels reminiscent of the clocks of the 18th century, in fact the gears in La Resonance are held in place by 13 titanium bridges and 30 pillars. This construction also made the finishing of each component quite painstaking, as according to Halter there was over 3 linear meters of bridges and components to hand finish individually.
To provide an unobstructed view into the movement the front and back bezels are as thin as possible and the crown has been moved to the left side of the case and the right side has been opened as to offer the wearer the possibility to admire the two balances beating in synchronicity. Another incredible feat is the weight of the watch, that measures a mere 35 grams (without the strap).
We are delighted and proud to offer not only the very first La Résonance to come to the market but the original prototype presented to collectors and the press.
We are delighted and honored to offer for the first time in public, the present unique spring case tourbillon, one of only two wristwatches fully hand made by Daniels himself.
The arrival on the auction market of this exquisite gem, exactly 30 years after it was completed, is an epiphanous moment. The historical, cultural and technical importance of the watch make it one of the most important wristwatches ever made by an independent watchmaker and would be a crown jewel in the collection of the connoisseur.
George Daniels (1926-2011) was the founding father of independent watchmaking in the second half of the 20th century. His contribution to the art of watchmaking can be seen in his gloriously handcrafted creations, that incorporate the various inventions he made. Daniels’ influence on the following generations of watchmakers is undeniable. Many cite him as their inspiration, often stating that his book Watchmaking led them to their own illustrious careers.
Nothing destined young Daniels to become one of the most prominent names in watchmaking, yet, an encounter with a pocket watch at the age of five would not only change his life but watchmaking as we know it today. The movement of that watch opened up unfathomable possibilities in the small child’s brain and magic happened.
27. GEORGE DANIELS A unique, historically important double sided yellow gold wristwatch with power reserve, day and date Spring Case TourbillonManufacturer George Daniels
Year 1992
Model Name Spring Case Tourbillon
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold George Daniels pin buckle
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed.
Estimate
In Excess of CHF 1,000,000
In Excess of $1,020,000
In Excess of €1,030,000
In the watch collecting sphere there are grails and then there are watches made with the same ethereal fabric as dreams. The timepieces made by George Daniels most certainly fall within this realm.
Daniels set up his own workshop shortly after World War II repairing watches and, in his spare time, restoring cars. A major turning point in his life came in 1960 when he met Cecil ‘Sam’ Clutton. Sam was, like George, a connoisseur of vintage cars, but he was also a man with an impressive antique watch collection, and with many connections to other collectors and institutions. These connections provided superb watches, by some of the greatest past makers - including Abraham-Louis Breguet - for Daniels to study and work on. Daniels held Breguet in exceptionally high esteem, citing him as his single most important influence. Over time he became a renowned expert on Breguet ’s work and wrote the definitive book on the subject, The Art of Breguet.
The widespread arrival on the market of inexpensive electronic and quartz watches in the late 1960s led Daniels – thankfully briefly – to consider abandoning watch repair in favor of car restoration. Determined to prove the continued relevance of mechanical timekeeping, Daniels embarked on his first watch creation in 1968; a gold and silver cased one-minute pivoted detent chronometer tourbillon with retrograde hour indication. The elegant form, simplicity, and legibility of the dial were to become distinctive characteristics of the Daniels oeuvre.
For Daniels a watch had to have historic, intellectual, technical, aesthetic, amusing and useful qualities, a mantra that he applied to all his creations.
From the outset, Daniels closely adhered to these prerequisites when designing and constructing his watches. He frequently repeated this mantra when discussing his pieces and explaining what he was trying to achieve. The case, dial and movements of his watches were to be instantly recognizable as a Daniels, each was to be hand-made to the highest standards, and the movements were to incorporate interesting and innovative mechanical features.
Daniels rarely worked on commissions and sold watches only when they were finished. The connoisseur chosen for his very first watch was Sam Clutton who said of it “That one man could have the intellectual ability to design such a mechanism; the technical ability to execute it with an exactitude second to almost none of the great masters of the past; and the artistic ability to endow it with such a strikingly elegant appearance; seems an almost incredible assembly of talent and perseverance”.
Daniels’ creative genius eventually led him to his first escapement invention – the Double wheel chronometer. This escapement had the advantage that impulse is delivered directly to the balance, with no lubrication, which in turn gives long term stability of rate. Daniels’ first watch in this series went to Seth Atwood for the Time Museum. Further iterations were constructed, culminating in two iconic watches known as the “Space Travellers”. Utilizing the two-trains that were required for the escapement, both watches displayed mean-solar and sidereal time.
The design and reliability of the Double wheel chronometer escapement became the inspiration for Daniels second escapement invention – the Co-axial. Legend has it that Daniels awoke in the middle of the night in 1975 with the exact image of what this escapement was to look like.
Considered as one of the greatest innovations in horology of the past 250 years, the Co-axial is a modification of the lever escapement with some features of the detent escapement. It functions with a system of three pallets that separate the locking function from the impulse, avoiding the sliding friction of the lever escapement. This makes lubrication of the pallets theoretically unnecessary and thereby minimizes one of the shortcomings of the traditional lever escapement.
The Co-axial was fitted to seven Daniels pocket watches created between 1979 and 1994. During this period Daniels approached the Swiss watch industry with a view to incorporating the escapement, as an alternative to the lever escapement, in a wristwatch. In 1999, Omega triumphantly launched the Co-axial at the Basel Fair, subsequently investing significantly in it to enable mass production. It is now used in virtually every Omega model
in the current wristwatch collection, and has been further refined and developed by them, and separately, by Daniels’ protégé Roger Smith for use in his superlative watches.
Even though Daniels had spent the larger part of his career crafting unique pocket watches he successfully took to making wristwatches in the early 1990s, first on his own and later in conjunction with Roger Smith.
Simple in its appearance, the present unique watch is technically impressive; from both its movement and dial display but also to its surprising ‘cabriolet-style’ sprung case. The watch features elegant hand guilloché silver dials - in the classic Daniels manner with eccentric gold chapters showing hours, minutes, interlaced seconds, and a subsidiary for power reserve indication. A day and date calendar and the visible tourbillon are unveiled on the reverse dial.
The ingenious two-part case has an inner section holding the movement, which is hinged to the outer, so that when released by a pusher in the band it springs open to reveal the reverse dial.
To affect this neatly, the winding crown is cleverly positioned between the lugs.
The tourbillon which had, by then, become a signature element of Daniels work rotates in one minute, and features his slim Co-axial escapement. Daniels was so pleased with this wristwatch that it became his daily wearer. He reluctantly parted with it in 2005 after a friend eventually persuaded him to sell it. The doubledialed watch is now being offered in public at auction for the very first time.
During his life time and by his own hand, George Daniels made twenty-three pocket watches and just two unique wristwatches. In addition, and in collaboration with Roger Smith, two further tourbillon wristwatches and two production series of wristwatches; the Millennium (see Lot 141) and Anniversary (See Lot 30) watches have been made.
The spring case double-dialed wristwatch is a tour de force. Ahead of its time both technically and aesthetically, it also provided much amusement to Daniels when he was wearing it – perfectly fulfilling his mantra of what a watch should be. He would often say “I bet you’ve never seen one of these before” and then, triggering the button in the case it would flip open to reveal the calendar and tourbillon. Audiences were left amazed and speechless by the Master and his Art.
We would like to thank David Newman of The George Daniels Educational Trust, Richard Stenning of Charles Frodsham & Co. and Roger Smith for their precious input toward the cataloguing of this piece.
Manufacturer Daniel Roth
Circa 1995
Reference No. C187
Case No. 124
Model Name "Double Sided Tourbillon"
Material 18K pink gold
Calibre Manual
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K pink gold Daniel Roth pin buckle.
Dimensions 38mm Length and 35mm Width Signed Dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 30,000-60,000
$30,500-61,000
€30,800-61,600
Not only is Daniel Roth one of the most brilliant watchmakers of his generation and one of the earliest watchmakers to set up his eponymous brand in 1987, he is also credited for the rise and interest in tourbillon wristwatches. Roth first worked for Audemars Piguet in the late 1960s. It was in 1973 that he
changed the face of modern horology when he joined Breguet, then a brand on the verge of bankruptcy that only made a handful of timepieces. Roth recreated wristwatches directly inspired by Abraham-Louis Breguet’s pocket watches, and by creating a Breguet wristwatch with a visible tourbillon escapement in the mid 1980s, he launched a watchmaking trend that had not been seen before and that became a rite of passage for every haute horlogerie brand and independent artisanal watchmaker.
Upon launch of his brand in 1987, Roth immediately created a personal design language, the most obvious being the unusual shape of his watches that later came to be defined as an ellipsocurvex, hands with pointed tips and dials with a horizontal guilloché pattern.
The Double Sided Tourbillon is most probably one of Roth’s best known models and a signature piece. On the front side, taking centre stage is the large tourbillon escapement with an original triple arm seconds hand featuring three hands of different lengths that indicate the seconds on three different seconds registers each calibrated for 20 seconds. The caseback features a retrograde power reserve and date indications.
Manufacturer Voutilainen
Year 2019
Case No. Caseback engraved "Unique Piece"
Model Name Vingt-8 ISO
Material 18K pink gold
Calibre Manual wind, cal. Vingt-8 ISO, 33 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K pink gold Voutilainen pin buckle
Dimensions 44mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 70,000-140,000
$71,200-142,000
€71,800-144,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Voutilainen guarantee dated November 2019, leather travel pouch, polishing cloth, fitted box, outer packaging and copy of the book Kari Voutilainen Horlogerie d’Art by Theodore Diehl.
Kari Voutilainen’s Vingt-8 ISO takes the horological master’s classical design and adds a dash of playfulness, resulting in a mesmerizing and novel manner of reading time.
The peculiar time display on the Vingt-8 ISO takes inspiration from the work of world-renowned psychologist and Nobel Prize laureate Daniel Kahneman. Kahneman describes the two different ways our brain forms thoughts: System 1 and System 2. Telling time by looking at a regular wristwatch is a result of a System 1 activity; a glance suffices because the ‘code’ is so familiar that in an instant you know the time without having to think twice.
The Vingt-8 ISO counters System 1 and requires System 2 thinking where time-telling becomes more than just thoughtlessly recognizing the position of hands. More thought and time must be expended to tell time. The idea is that this helps create a more intimate relationship with the watch.
As such the hour hand rotates on a normal 12 hour speed whereas the minutes hand rotates 13 times every hour. As such to perfectly read the time one must look at the number the minutes hand is pointing to on the rotating ring in the outer part of the dial.
Even if it can seem complicated one can rapidly used to reading time without referring to the minutes scale on the outer ring.
• at the full hour, the minute hand overlaps the hour hand. • at every half hour, the minute hand and hour hand are on 180 degree angle, or exactly opposite.
The present example measures 44mm in diameter, making it truly unique - as proudly engraved on the caseback. Technically, the ISO is everything one can expect from Voutilainen - the incredibly hand decorated movement features a complex direct impulse escapement enabling a more constant distribution of energy.
Furthermore, the extra-large balance allows fine regulation of the watch using a rare balance spring system with the exterior of the spring using a Breguet overcoil, while the internal curve uses the little known Grossmann curve. The dial furthermore features Voutilainen’s intricate hand guilloché work.
There is a definitive sense of exhilaration when offering a George Daniels wristwatch, considering that he made or oversaw the making of 141 timepieces bearing his name, each piece coming to the market is a transcendental moment to be celebrated.
Dr. George Daniels is revered as a 20th and 21st century horological master, whose ingenious Co-axial escapement had a profound impact on the history of mechanical timekeeping. A Master of the Worshipful Company of Clockmakers, Daniels studied watchmaking’s traditional past, seeking to improve upon it, and advancing precision timekeeping. He studied the 18th/19th century master Abraham-Louis Breguet, who Daniels said was his single greatest influence, and over time, he became a leading authority on Breguet. The sublime, eternally classic dials found on Breguet’s pocket watches are mirrored in the work by Daniels, as well as the exquisite quality of each component within his movements.
Daniels’ 1975 Co-axial escapement was a radical 20th century invention which resulted from Daniels’ detailed historical study of all known previous escapements and was designed to incorporate the key features required for a practical, high precision escapement. It functions with a system of three pallets separating the locking function from the impulse, avoiding the sliding friction of the lever escapement. This makes lubrication of the pallets theoretically unnecessary and thereby eliminates one of the shortcomings of the traditional lever escapement. The Co-axial was so revolutionary and wellreceived by the horological world that the brand Omega began fitting it in their high-grade wristwatches in 1999, and today is found on virtually all of their mechanical wristwatches.
Manufacturer George Daniels
Year Circa 2010
Movement No. Movement stamped with limited edition number 24
Model Name Anniversary
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, co-axial escapement
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold deployant clasp
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 300,000-600,000
$305,000-610,000
€308,000-616,000
Accessories
Accompanied by an original fitted box with key, presentation manual, cleaning cloth and setting pin.
Roger Smith set out to create a new British caliber that was to be produced by Roger W. Smith and finished to Daniels’ exacting standards and style.
The Anniversary Watch is a concentrate of Daniels’ genius and design ethos in a wristwatch. Says Daniels about this piece
“My goal has always been to make watches which provide historical, technical, intellectual, aesthetic, amusing and useful qualities. This wristwatch is a culmination of over 40 years of watchmaking and unashamedly takes inspiration from several pieces in my body of work. The 18 carat gold case houses a completely new and original Daniels calibre which is fitted with a calendar and power reserve complication and, along with the minute, hour and seconds, provides all the information that a fine watch should.”
Every element, of this watch, may it be the case, the dial, each single component has been crafted without a shred of compromise. The 40mm gold case sits perfectly on the wrist whereas the hand guilloché dial is a gem of design and craftsmanship. The movement tactfully balances traditional British looks and the groundbreaking co-axial escapement. Daniels only made 35 Anniversary pieces in yellow gold of which the present example is number 24.
In celebration of the 35th anniversary of this groundbreaking invention, George Daniels set out to produce 35 hand-made watches. Inspired by his famous tourbillon chronograph pocket watch created in 1994, Daniels and his protegé and successor
For enthusiasts and collectors, any George Daniels timepiece is the pinnacle of watch collecting and the present Anniversary would be a crown jewel in any collection.
GRAND SEIKO
An early, fine and collectible gold-plated wristwatch with center seconds and presentation box, the first Grand Seiko model ever released
Manufacturer Grand Seiko
Year Circa 1960
Reference No. J14070GS
Movement No. 301’062
Case No. 3’511’171
Model Name Grand Seiko “The First”
Material 14K gold-filled
Calibre Manual, cal. 3180, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Gilt Seiko pin buckle
Dimensions 35mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 5,000-10,000
$5,100-10,200
€5,100-10,300
Accessories
Accompanied by Grand Seiko presentation box and outer packaging.
The present timepiece is the archetypal representative of what is today considered one of the greatest mechanical line of watches - and arguably the greatest non-Swiss mechanical line of timepieces - to ever grace the face of the earth: the Grand Seiko.
Ref. J14070 was developed with a single goal in mind. To use Seiko’s own words, “the idea was to build a watch that would be as precise, durable, easy to wear and beautiful as humanly
possible”. Developing of the watch started of course years earlier, in the 1950s, and the results of their efforts - cal. 3180was a technological achievement, sporting an accuracy of +12/3 seconds per day and a power reserve of 45 hours. It was the first Japanese calibre to meet the extremely strict “Standard of Excellence” of the Bureaux Officiels de Contrôle de la Marche des Montres - the Swiss authority on watches.
Such is the iconic stature of this first Grand Seiko, in the modern era there have been more than a dozen references that are referred to as “reissues”, closely adhering to the original design - although none feature the “Chronometer” text under the logo.
No wonder then, that an original example of the vintage reference - in production for just three years from 1960-1963 - is regarded as an essential foundational piece in any vintage Grand Seiko collection.
The present watch is a superlative example of the “raised logo” dialed variant of the Grand Seiko, with a particularly clean dial, and a case that retains its sharply defined lugs - features that are all to rare to find on examples of these 60 year old watches today.
Offered together with its fascinating - and ultra hard to findoriginal box, outer packaging and original buckle, the present piece is an incredible value proposition for the connoisseur of fine timepieces.
Manufacturer
Reference No. 16519
Movement No. 143’819
Case No. U178662
Model Name Cosmograph Daytona
Material 18K white gold and sodalite
Calibre Automatic, cal. 4030, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 20,000-40,000
$20,300-40,700
€20,500-41,000
Introduced in the late 1990s, the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona reference 16519 is the white gold counterpart of the stainless steel reference 16520.
The present reference 16519 is most notably fitted with a blue sodalite dial. Rolex is particularly imaginative and innovative in its use of hard stone, and the present timepiece is no exception. It furthermore displays hands without luminous material, which is correct for this model. Preserved in excellent condition, the case displays all hallmarks and Rolex markings and is paired along with a matching blue crocodile strap.
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1989
Reference No. 18346
Movement No. 5531436
Case No. L931314
Model Name Day-Date
Material Platinum and diamonds
Calibre Automatic, cal. 3155, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Platinum Rolex President bracelet, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle Platinum Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions 36mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 25,000-50,000
$25,400-50,800
€25,600-51,300
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex International Service Guarantee dated November 17, 2021, presentation box and outer packaging.
The present reference 18346 most notably is cased in platinum and is fitted with a beautiful diamond bezel and heavy platinum bracelet, with the “4” in the reference number referring to the diamond bezel and “6” referring to platinum. Furthermore, the dial is particularly rare variant. It displays no luminous material, giving the watch a very stealth like appearance.
Preserved in stunning condition, all finishes are incredibly crisp and sharp, with the numbers between the lugs being deep and legible even without the aid of a loupe. The hallmarks are furthermore deep and visible beneath the lugs.
Heavy, lavish and luxurious, platinum is known as the noblest of all metals. Platinum is the rarest case metal for serially produced Day-Date models, and this particular watch, preserved in excellent and barely worn condition, is nothing short of spectacular. The present watch is furthermore accompanied by its Rolex International Service Guarantee dated November 17, 2021 showing the watch was serviced at Rolex Japan, presentation box and outer packaging.
Manufacturer Audemars Piguet
Year 2000
Reference No. 25721ST
Movement No. E39531 and 2260
Case No. 494’380
Model Name Royal Oak Offshore
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 2126/2840, 51 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions 42mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 25,000-50,000
$25,400-50,800
€25,600-51,300
Accessories
Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Certificate of Origin dated 2000.
In the early 1990s, Audemars Piguet tasked its in-house designer Emmanuel Gueit to reinvent the classic Royal Oak model and infuse it with new life and power. For years, Gueit and his team worked on a prototype and subsequently presented the final product, reference 25721ST, in 1993 at Basel. The result was astonishing and something completely different from what the public had ever seen before. It was shortly nicknamed “The Beast” due to what was, at the time, its astonishing 42mm case size. The launch of reference 25721ST marked the beginning of the Offshore lineage. In fact, it arguably established the trend for large-sized watches, which today is the complete norm.
The present “E Series” version features a beautiful dial that has turned brown over the years. This “tropical” effect is completely astonishing, and the brown tone is incredibly saturated and even. There is no telling how a watch will turn in tone over time, and this particular example has aged in a stunning manner. As an added detail, it is accompanied by its Certificate of Origin adding another layer of collectibility.
Manufacturer Rolex
Year 1974
Reference No. 5514 inside caseback stamped with repeated serial number
Case No. 4’089’845 and 387 to the outer caseback
Model Name Submariner “COMEX”
Material Stainless Steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 1520, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet with diver’s extension, stamped “9315” and “K6”, endlinks stamped “280”, with diver extension stamped “PATETED”, max length 205mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped “K6” and “9315”
Dimensions 39mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, bracelet, and clasp signed. Dial additionally stamped COMEX. Outer caseback engraved ROLEX COMEX 387.
Estimate
CHF 60,000-120,000
$61,000-122,000
€61,600-123,000
Accessories
Accompanied by signed Henry Hudson letter dated 02nd March, 2004, confirming sale of the watch to COMEX Organization in December 1975, and Rolex service guarantees dated 09th March and 27th August 2004.
In 1971, as legend goes, Rolex CEO Andre Heiniger, reached out to COMEX founder, Henri-Germain Delauze with a daring proposal. Rolex would deliver and provide to all COMEX divers Rolex tool watches free of charge in exchange for detailed performance analysis reports. With their base in Marseille, Compagnie Maritime d'Expertises (COMEX) was in the 70s and 80s a pioneer diving company for the oil industry.
The first reference issued by Rolex for COMEX divers was the reference 5513. Subsequently, from 1974 to 1977 Rolex issued the Submariner reference 5514, such as the present example. Reference 5514 was exclusively made for the COMEX organization and never made available to the public for commercial use. The present Rolex reference 5514 stands out for its outstanding overall condition and stunning patina. The luminous hour markers have developed a warm and extremely enticing light caramel color, perfectly matching its original hands. The case is superbly crisp with the repeated serial number inside the caseback and issue number 387.
Perhaps most importantly, the watch is accompanied by a coveted “Henry Hudson letter” from Rolex Bexley Kent in the UK, confirming its model and case number as well as its issue to the Comex organization in December 1975. Notably, “Hudson letters” are no longer available from Rolex and have not been issued in many years. It is exceedingly rare to find such a well-preserved COMEX model with confirmation from Rolex, making it a unique opportunity for any collector of issued watches from Rolex.
ROLEX An impressive and incredibly well-preserved stainless steel wristwatch with center seconds, black lacquer dial “exclamation dial” and bracelet
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1961
Reference No. 5512 inside caseback stamped II.61
Movement No. 17’126
Case No. 693’708
Model Name Submariner “Exclamation Mark Pointed Crown Guard”
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 1530, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 40,000-80,000
$40,700-81,300
€41,000-82,100
First released in 1953, the Submariner was released under references 6200, 6204, and 6205. Revolutionary for the period, these dive watches display center seconds and a black lacquer dial, along with an Oyster case ensuring water resistance.
Eventually, Rolex decided to upgrade existing models and incorporated crown guards with the reference 5512 for better protection. Furthermore, a chronometer movement was assigned to the reference 5512, ensuring greater precision and thus the models display a movement number.
Like many intricacies of collecting vintage Rolex wristwatches, the various iterations of crown guards have developed their own nicknames and followings as the design evolved. The earliest were square-shaped, of which it is estimated very few exist. It is speculated that criticism of the bulky square crown guard prompted Rolex to modify the cases they had in stock, giving rise to the “eagle beak” crown guard. Finally, Rolex produced cases with unobtrusive pointed crown guards (sometimes abbreviated by collectors as PCG), as found on the present example. These early Submariners were fitted with stunning black glossy dials and featured either two or four lines of text at 6 o’clock with gilt printing in either silver or gold (or both). By the late-1960s, the crown guards were changed to a rounder design that is still in use today.
The highlight of this example is without a doubt the stunning, nearly perfectly preserved glossy “exclamation mark” dial, featuring an incredibly smooth and shiny surface. Incredibly mirror-like and very impressive in appearance, the present dial is a sight to behold with the luminous material being intact. These dials were produced only for a short period of time in around 1961 and are defined by the minuscule dot of luminous material present under the 6 o’clock hour marker.
Reuniting the aesthetic pleasure of watch collecting with its most intellectual aspect, the present glossy Exclamation Mark dial, Pointed Crown Guard 5512 is without a doubt a gem for the avid collector of fine, particular and uncommon timepieces.
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1940
Reference No. 3525
Case No. 51’313
Model Name Barilotto
Material 18K pink gold and stainless steel
Calibre Manual, cal. 13’’’, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Rolex buckle
Dimensions 36mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 30,000-60,000
$30,500-61,000
€30,800-61,600
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex presentation box also stamped Bandiera & Bedetti Roma.
First introduced in 1939, the reference 3525 was Rolex’s very first chronograph wristwatch to be housed in an Oyster case defined by water resistant screw down caseback as well as screw down winding crown. The ref. 3525 was offered in yellow gold, pink gold and stainless steel, such as the present execution. Analysis of publicly known pieces shows that - with the exception of a few outliers - most of the production for the reference is grouped in three “batches”, with respectively serial numbers around 40’xxx-51’xxx for the first batch, then in the mid 100’000 for the second, and in the mid-300’000 the last.
The present watch is part of an early series where the case number is engraved on the outside caseback. The watch is preserved in impressive condition, particularly when one takes into account its age. The bezel has developed a layer or pleasing patina, giving it an almost copper appearance. The lugs retain good proportions, and the dial has not seen any intervention throughout its lifetime. Most notably, the dial is stamped “Fab. Suisse” and the graphics are in French, which is correct. As an even nicer touch, its accompanied by its original Rolex box, stating the watch was sold at Bandiera & Bedetti in Rome, adding another layer of collectibility.
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1978
Reference No. 6265
Case No. 5’582’570
Model Name Cosmograph Daytona
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped K11
Dimensions 37mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 60,000-100,000
$61,000-102,000
€61,600-103,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex Guarantee dated November 24, 1980, tags, presentation box and outer packaging.
Launched in the late 1960s, references 6263 and 6265 replaced the first Oyster Cosmograph model, 6240. Reference 6265 was introduced to the market in 1969 precisely and ceased production in the late 1980s. Compared to the first generation of the Cosmograph Daytona, the model featured screw down pushers and thus carried the “Oyster” designation on the dial, offering water resistance. The model was offered in either stainless steel or gold and the movement was also upgraded from a Valjoux 722 movement to the more reliable Valjoux 727 movement.
The present watch, offered in excellent and incredibly sharp condition is an impressive example. Displaying round luminous plots, the dial is crisp and free of visible flaws. Luminous dots usually fall off or degrade over time, yet the ones on this examples remain round and intact. Furthermore, the case is preserved in incredibly sharp condition with crisp edges and facets. As an even nicer touch, it is accompanied by its Rolex Guarantee dated November 24, 1980, tags, presentation box and outer packaging.
Ref. 6265 Cosmograph Daytona "Full Set Big Red"Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1953
Reference No. 6034
Case No. 907’471
Model Name Oyster Chronograph
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Manual, cal. 72B, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex pin buckle
Dimensions 36mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Provenance
Christie’s, New York, Important Pocket Watches & Wristwatches Featuring Property from the Collection of Eric Clapton, June 5, 2003, lot 164. Christies, Geneva, May 13 2013, lot, 129.
Estimate
CHF 120,000-240,000
$122,000-244,000
€123,000-246,000
Introduced in the first half of 1950s, reference 6034 was among one of the earliest series of chronographs in the ref. 6000 range. Indeed, the watch employs an Oyster case, paving the way to what would become one of the most popular designs of the 20th century: the coveted Cosmograph Daytona. Worth noting is that Rolex considered such a design an Oyster one - as mentioned on the dial - even though it lacks screw-down pushers.
Two traits distinguish this example from the rest, one apparent, and one “hidden”. The latter one consists in the fact that the present piece has been part of one of the most famous watch collections of all times, that of Eric Clapton CBE. Possibly as skilled a collector as he is a guitar player, Mr. Clapton’s unerringly selected the best in rarity and quality for his collection, to the point of owning some of the most coveted wristwatches on the planet (for example, the platinum Patek Philippe reference 2499). It is no surprise that a watch bearing his “mark of approval”, combined with the fact that he is not only one of the greatest collectors of all times but one of the greatest artists as well, is always an unmissable opportunity for the connoisseur. The present watch was offered at the Important Pocket Watches & Wristwatches Featuring Property from the Collection of Eric Clapton sale in New York, 2003.
The second trait that highlights the present timepiece is obviously its incredible tropical dial. Rather than the monochromatic tropicalisation which one is used to seeing (if the expression “used to seeing” can even be employed with something as rare as a tropical dial), this watch features in incredibly “alive” mottle tropical pattern ranging from light tobacco to dark chocolate. An incredible explosion of hues and tonalities, the tropical effect grants this piece enormous charisma and appeal.
The coupling of its distinguished provenance with its incredible aesthetics renders the present timepiece one of the most intriguing examples of ref. 6034 to ever grace an auction room.
Manufacturer Rolex
Year 2018
Reference No. 116595RBOW
Case No. P1V98236
Model Name Cosmograph Daytona “Rainbow”
Material 18K pink gold, diamonds and sapphires
Calibre Automatic, cal. 4130, 44 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K pink gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 205mm (full links)
Clasp/Buckle 18K pink gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 250,000-500,000
$254,000-508,000
€256,000-513,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex Guarantee card dated December 24, 2018, green card holder, product literature, numbered sale tag, fitted presentation box and outer packaging.
Rolex is an absolute master at incorporating precious materials to their horological masterpieces. While the firm started to seriously integrate diamonds and gemstones with the introduction of the Zenith Daytona, it was not until the 2000s that Rolex truly pushed the design boundaries of the Cosmograph Daytona.
The present watch is aptly named “Rainbow” due to its beautiful and impressive bezel, which is set with gemstones that graduate in hue to mimic the color spectrum. The tones range from a vibrant and intense deep red, and slowly morph to mauve, orange, chartreuse, green, blue and finally deep purple. The bezel’s beauty stems from the well-matched, pure and bright colored gemstones. The colors blend together seamlessly, attesting to Rolex’s technical superiority and eye for color. The lugs are furthermore set with diamonds, to enhance the colorful nature of the watch.
While yellow gold and white gold “Rainbow” examples were produced in 2012 and discontinued after a few years, it was not until 2018 that a pink gold version was introduced to the market. Of all the Rainbow versions known to exist in pink gold, the present watch is probably the most lavish and eye-catching variant, fitted with pavé diamonds on the dial and center links. Today, the watch has soared to new heights in popularity due to its utter rarity and impressive looks. Due to a lack of supply on the market, the Rainbow Daytona is often not available to those even willing to pay a premium.
Preserved in excellent condition, the present watch is accompanied by its original guarantee. Its a rare opportunity to acquire one of the rarest and most sought-after Daytonas in modern production.
Reference 6239 was the very first model within the iconic Cosmograph Daytona family and was produced from approximately 1963 until 1976. Available in stainless steel, 14K and 18K gold, reference 6239 was the Rolex’s first chronograph with the tachymeter scale engraved on the bezel. The model was originally announced as the “Le Mans”. It was eventually named the “Daytona” after the 24 Hours of Daytona automobile race.
Some of the rarest, most historically important and valuable Rolex wristwatches have been sold through the American retailer Tiffany & Co. The present watch featuring not only the jeweler’s signature but also a “Paul Newman” dial, is an extraordinarily rare specimen. To date no more than a handful of correct examples have appeared on the market. Few retailers have had a relationship with Rolex like Tiffany & Co. has. The jeweler has proudly emblazoned its logo on a variety of Rolex wristwatches, ranging from the GMT-Master to the Cosmograph Daytona.
ROLEX An extraordinarily rare, exceptionally well-preserved and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “Paul Newman” dial and bracelet, retailed by Tiffany & Co.
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1968
Reference No. 6239
Case No. 1’874’393
Model Name Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman Tiffany & Co.”
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Manual, cal. 722-1, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, end links stamped 71N, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 4.67
Dimensions 37mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 300,000-600,000
$305,000-610,000
€308,000-616,000
Accessories
Accompanied by a copy of the invoice from Wingate’s indicating the sale of the present watch in 1994.
Historically, the storied boutique has been the destination for collectors in pursuit of the finest and most attractive wristwatches. Furthermore, Tiffany & Co. has been mentioned numerous times in popular culture, ranging from literature to film. Joanne Woodward no less purchased the now recordbreaking reference 6239 wristwatch with “exotic” dial from the retailer for her husband Paul Newman.
The present watch is, to the best of our knowledge, one of the best-preserved examples of a “Paul Newman” reference 6239 with Tiffany & Co. signature to ever come to the market. The outer track is free of tarnishing and all the graphics remain crisp and correct. The luminous dots are round, intact and have aged with warm patina. The case is also preserved in exceptional condition with crisp finishes throughout. Most notably, there is a code engraved underneath one lug, which is most probably an internal Tiffany & Co. code, similar examples of which can also be found on other Tiffany & Co. signed Rolex wristwatches.
The present watch is most notably consigned by a collector who bought the timepiece in 1994 from Wingate’s in the United States. It is accompanied by a copy of the sales receipt showing the purchase for a sum of $12,000 in August 1994. This is important as proof that the watch has never been altered throughout 28 years where according to the consigner, it mainly sat in a safe. It shows that the watch was sold to the present owner long before the popularity and rise of watch collecting, demonstrating how the watch has been unchanged throughout the years, giving the buyer and collecting community a frame of reference and seal of confidence.
The rarity and honesty of the present watch, combined with its good looks, renders it one of the most exciting and beautiful examples of reference 6239s to ever appear in the public eye.
exceptional and very well-preserved
world time wristwatch with bracelet, cloisonné enamel dial depicting the North Pole, certificate of origin, and presentation box
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Reference No. 5131/1P
Movement No. 7’176’012
Case No. 6’264’624
Model Name World Time
Material Platinum
Calibre Automatic, cal. 240 HU, 33 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Platinum Patek Philippe bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle Platinum Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions 39.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 80,000-160,000
$81,300-163,000
€82,100-164,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated January 17, 2020, Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts Certificate of Authenticity, instruction manual, product literature, leather folio, fitted presentation box and outer packaging.
Launched in the early 1930s, World Time models have historically been one of the most coveted creations ever produced by Patek Philippe. The modern version today remains highly collectible and is made even more impressive due to the vibrant cloisonné enamel map at the center of the dial. The art of cloisonné enamel requires exceptional skill, and thus these works of art are incredibly rare to come by.
The World Time enamel wristwatch reference 5131 was chronologically produced in various metals from 2008 in yellow gold, followed by white gold in 2009, pink gold in 2014 and finally platinum in 2017. Fitted with a heavy and impressive platinum bracelet, reference 5131/1P is regarded as one of the most sought after Patek Philippe references since its launch. Recently discontinued in 2021, the demand for these wonderful world time wristwatches are ever growing.
The present example, delivered in 2020 is preserved in barely worn condition and is accompanied by all its original accessories.
Manufacturer
2020
Reference No. 116659SABR
Case No. 7P9X3309
Model Name Submariner
Material 18K white gold and sapphires
Calibre Automatic, cal. 3135, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K white gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length mm
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions 41mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 100,000-200,000
$102,000-203,000
€103,000-205,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex Guarantee dated September 1st, 2020, wallet, product literature, presentation box and outer packaging.
Luxurious and impressive, this Submariner is lavishly set with baguette sapphires on the bezel and diamonds on the shoulders. Incredibly eye-catching and dazzling, this timepiece shows Rolex’s expertise in the time-consuming job of selecting, along with setting, well-matched hard stones and gemstones.
As with all Rolex watches, functionality lies at the heart of everything. Interestingly, the first nine sapphires are lighter in tone and color - they represent the classic dive bezel graduated for decompression times. As a design twist, the beautiful deep soleil dial does not display a depth rating.
Preserved in excellent and barely worn condition, the present watch is accompanied by a Rolex guarantee, product literature, presentation box and outer packaging.
Manufacturer Rolex
2021
Reference No. 226679TBR
Case No. 31Z83458
Model Name Yacht-Master
Material 18K white gold and diamonds
Calibre Automatic, cal. 3235, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Rubber
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions 42mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 70,000-140,000
$71,200-142,000
€71,800-144,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex guarantee dated 2021, product literature, hang tag, card holder, presentation box and outer packaging.
Even in this rarefied world made of endless waiting lists and incredibly strict allocation systems, there are different levels of rarity. While indeed some sports models are more collectible than others, the true endgame lies within the “out of catalogue” products. It is rare, but not unheard of, when Rolex Authorized Dealers occasionally offer to their most important clients the opportunity to buy watches that are not part of the public collection, but rather made in extremely low numbers and offered directly to the client, if she or he is deemed worthy. The present watch is one such example.
Lavishly set with baguette diamonds on the bezel, the present Yachtmaster is most notably an “off catalog” model released in 2021 that was only available to Rolex’s very best clients. Preserved in barely worn condition, it is most notably offered with all its original accessories and is the first time the model ever appears on the auction market.
Manufacturer Vianney Halter
Year 2018
Case No. 12/20
Model Name Anniversary
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal.U30A, 30 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel VH deployant clasp
Dimensions 38mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 30,000-60,000 ∑
$30,500-61,000
€30,800-61,600
Accessories
Accompanied by Vianney Halter outer and inner box, Certificate of Authenticity and undated warranty and polishing cloth.
Rarely has a watchmaker had such an influence on his peers as Vianney Halter has - he took the world by surprise in 1998 with his incredibly original and unusual Antiqua perpetual calendar followed by the Opus 3 , which was developed with Harry Winston.
In 2018, in celebration of the 20th anniversary of the launching of his brand, Halter presented the Anniversary in a limited edition of 20 pieces of which the present model is numbered 12.
Inspired by the Classic presented in 2000, the Anniversary reinterprets the futuristic steampunk Jules Verne inspired visual codes of its predecessor in a more contemporary livery.
The enlarged 38mm case is now made in steel, a metal that Halter had never worked with and which according to him will never be use again, the sterling silver dial bears his autograph and interestingly a fragment of an encrypted message is printed on each of the 20 rotors, a message that can be deciphered only when the watches are reunited!
The automatic movement features an ingenious sapphire central rotor enabling a full view of the movement.
The present watch, in close to new condition, is furthermore accompanied by all its original accessories.
F.P. JOURNE A very rare and early pink gold automatic, annual calendar wristwatch with small seconds, retrograde date and brass movement
Manufacturer F.P. Journe
Year Circa 2003
Case No. 140-03Q
Model Name Octa Calendrier
Material 18K pink gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 1300, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K pink gold F.P. Journe pin buckle
Dimensions 38mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 80,000-160,000
$81,300-163,000
€82,100-164,000
Accessories
Accompanied by an F.P Journe strap invoice date July 11, 2015 and stamped Montres Journe Hong Kong.
F.P Journe creations are paradoxical. Born from Journe’s mastermind, the “enfant terrible” of horology, they are the result of a subtle blend of innovation, highly skilled technicality mixed with a dash of madness. Yet, every single piece of his collection honours and salutes watchmaking as an Art.
The Octa Calendrier is no exception. Part of the Octa series, which was first introduced to the world in 2001 with the Octa
Reserve de Marche, the present wristwatch houses the famed 5.71mm thick calibre 1300 with an annual calendar complication. Taking three years of research and another two of perfecting it, Journe’s goal was finally realised; to create one unique movement that would be adaptable to add complications.
The Octa Calendrier saw birth in 2002 and was the first F.P. Journe model to win an award at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.
Measuring 38mm diameter in pink gold, the present example is an early example of the Octa Calendrier models, featuring its rare and desirable brass movement, which would be replaced by a pink gold movement in 2004. Paired beautifully and tastefully with a shimmering gold dial matching the hue of the case, the main dial indicating the time and small seconds features the firm’s signature silver guilloche dial secured with three screws. The retrograde-style date is indicated via a central hand pointing to the date on a crescent following the edge of the dial. The day of the week and the month are indicated through apertures above and below F.P. Journe’s signature. Practical and well-balanced, yet with an asymmetrical dial, the layout is easily legible and is a feast for the eyes of its beholder.
The F.P. Journe manufacture has confirmed that it will issue a Certificate of Authenticity to the new owner should he/she be willing to register the watch under their name.
J.N. SHAPIRO A very attractive pink gold wristwatch with a superbly hand guilloché dial, warranty card and box
Manufacturer J.N. Shapiro
Year 2021
Movement No. 46
Model Name Infinity
Material 18K pink gold
Calibre Manual, cal. UWD, 19 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Alligator
Clasp/Buckle 18K pink gold Shapiro pin buckle
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed.
Estimate
CHF 15,000-30,000 ∑
$15,200-30,500
€15,400-30,800
Accessories
Accompanied by Warranty card dated November 2021, leather card holder and fitted box.
Joshua Shapiro’s story is what makes collecting watches from independent makers so exciting and diverse.
Shapiro was a high school principle based in Los Angeles but his love for mechanics and watchmaking pushed him – during his free time – to spend seven years learning watchmaking and guilloché (or engine turning) with David Walters.
His dexterity and natural abilities were so strong that he actually invented a new guilloché pattern that he calls the Infinity- a series of repeating patterns within repeating patterns. In 2018 he launched his eponymous brand with a watch model named after his guilloché pattern.
The dials of his watches consist of a cavalcade of subtle patterns, all hand guilloché on a rose engine, and are made of seven parts secured together with screws rather than soldering, all of the markings on the dial are engraved, and then filled with ink. Each dial takes a whole month to complete.
Whereas the dial is a tribute to classism the movement is resolutely contemporary, the movement is sourced from Uhren-Werke Dresden (UWD), a sister company of independent watchmaker Lang & Heyne. It has a distinct aesthetic with open-worked bridges, an adjustable mass balance wheel and a swan’s neck regulator index.
The present Infinity n°46 in pink gold features an elegant ruthenium plated dial, blued proprietary Arabic numerals and a pink gold seconds hand and name plate giving it incredible charisma.
We believe that this is the first Shapiro wristwatch to be offered in an international auction room and it presents a fantastic opportunity to own a timepiece from one of the spear heads of the rebirth of American independent horology.
Manufacturer De Bethune
Year 2012
Reference No. DB28TIS8NAD
Movement No. 2115.332
Case No. 11/50
Model Name DB28 Aiguille d’Or
Material Titanium
Calibre Manual, cal. DB2115, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Titanium DeBethune pin buckle
Dimensions 43mm Diameter
Signed Case, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 50,000-100,000
$50,800-102,000
€51,300-103,000
Accessories
Accompanied by De Bethune Certificate of Origin and Warranty dated May 24th 2012, instructions, setting pin, travel case, and outer box.
Launched in 2010, the DB28 is most likely the timepiece that best exemplifies De Bethune’s technical and design prowess, and it has become the brand’s most recognizable model over time.
The following year, at the Grand Prix Horlogerie de Genève, this model won the prestigious Aiguille d’Or award as best watch of the year. In celebration of this incredible – and well deserved -award De Bethune presented in 2012 a 50 piece limited edition of the DB28 with specific features.
The Aiguille d’Or award translates to “the golden hand” and as a nod to the award, the minute hand of the present watch is adorned by a pink gold baguette-shaped insert. Furthermore, the caseback has been opened as to reveal the power reserve mechanism and indicator – also in pink gold.
Other DB28 signature elements such as the mobile lugs, the triple parachute shock absorber, the 3D moonphase indication and a wind performance indication between 2 and 3 o’clock are obviously present.
Denis Flageollet – the brand’s co-founder and master watchmaker – spent decades restoring pieces made by the great masters of the 18th and 19th centuries, and he used his abyssal knowledge of historical watchmaking to invent 21st century watches like no other, as he puts it: “the tradition of watchmaking is innovation”, and as such the present DB 29 “Aiguille d’Or” number 11 of a 50 piece limited edition perfectly exemplifies the innovative spirit of the brand.
F.P. JOURNE An incredibly rare platinum wristwatch with black dial, oversized date, power reserve and moonphases, warranty and presentation box, one of only 6 known
Manufacturer F.P. Journe
Year 2010
Case No. 425-L
Model Name Octa Lune - Black Label
Material Platinum
Calibre Automatic, cal. 1300.3, 30 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Platinum F.P. Journe pin buckle
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 80,000-160,000
$81,300-163,000
€82,100-164,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Certificat de Garantie, letter confirming the watch was refurbished at F.P. Journe ateliers in August 2020 and that watch would be under warranty for 3 years, email correspondance confirming that only 6 pieces of the Octa Lune Black label were ever made, fitted box, outer packaging.
The present Octa Lune Black Label is most certainly one of the rarest of Journe models as following email correspondence with the consignor, it has been confirmed that only 6 Octa Lune Black Label models were ever made!
The Octa Lune was launched in 2003 and won the “Best Men’s Watch” award, in the same year, at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) - the most prestigious award ceremony in the watch industry. The moonphase aperture on the left-hand side of the dial, offers a balance to the offset subdial displaying the hours and minutes. The actual moon aperture is poetically crafted in the shape of a crescent moon itself, rotated 90 degrees horizontally – a classical styling reminiscent of the creations of Breguet.
Caliber 1300.2 was used in the Octa Series, before being updated to cal. 1300.3, denoting the third version of the movement. Cal. 1300.3 introduced a new ball-bearing mechanism to boost winding efficiency and marked the transition from bi-directional to uni-directional winding. The revised Cal. 1300.3, which is crafted of 18 carat pink gold with Côtes de Genève decorations, powers this Octa Lune. It has a monometallic 4-arm balance with four timing weights that can be adjusted to five positions, as well as a straight-line lever escapement.
The present example of the Octa Lune Black Label is further enhanced by its rarity. Only available at F.P. Journe boutiques to pre-existing F. P. Journe clients, the Black Label collection of watches are only encased in platinum with a black lacquer dial.
GRÖNEFELD
An incredibly attractive pink gold wristwatch remontoire prototype with guarantee and presentation box, numbered 0/188
Manufacturer Grönefeld
Year 2016
Movement No. 0/188
Case No. 92’028
Model Name Remontoire 1941 "Prototype"
Material 18K pink gold
Calibre Manual, cal. G.05 , 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Alligator
Clasp/Buckle 18K Grönefeld pink gold pin buckle
Dimensions 39.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 35,000-70,000 ∑
$35,600-71,200
€35,900-71,800
Accessories
Accompanied by Warranty card, fitted box, travelling pouch and outer packaging.
Tim and Bart Grönefeld (the Horological Brothers) have established a strong reputation of innovative complicated watchmaking.
Launched in 2016 and winning the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (the equivalent of the Oscars for watches) the same year, the Remontoire 1941 merges technical prowess with aesthetic equilibrium.
The Remontoire 1941 is inspired by a clock found in the church tower of their native city of Oldenzaal in the Netherlands, who was maintained and serviced by their grandfather and father who were both watchmakers. The 1941 in the watch’s name comes from the birth year of their father.
A remontoire, is a complex constant force mechanism rarely seen that allows the force driven by the mainspring to remain constant throughout the complete power reserve of the watch without loss of amplitude at the end of the power reserve and ensuring constant accuracy throughout. The 1941 Remontoire features an eight seconds constant force mechanism, ensuring the force serving the balance wheel does not wane, leading to superior precision.
The movement of the present watch is nothing short of astounding, made in stainless steel it glows with a certain sheen that has become the Grönefeld’s signature with a succession of sand blasted components with polished angles on different levels with a decidedly very architectural appearance resulting in one of the most stunning horological calibers of the past years.
Only 188 Remontoire movements cased in different metals and dial configurations were made. The present example takes the word “rare” to whole new dimensions as this very example is number 0/188 and was the original prototype the brothers devised and presented to collectors and the press in 2016.
The anecdote on how this very watch came to the market is an amusing one. The Grönefeld’s agent in Italy had asked for a watch to show a client, the brother’s sent the prototype number 0. However, the agent sold the watch to the client, not being able to reclaim their piece the brothers let go of the watch and later supplied box and guarantee.
An incredible piece onto itself and a model very seldom offered at market, the present prototype number 0 is a superb piece of horological history.
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 2006
Reference No. 3940P-013
Movement No. 3’129’096
Case No. 4’355’478
Material Platinum
Calibre Automatic, cal. 240, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Platinum Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions 36mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 30,000-60,000
$30,500-61,000
€30,800-61,600
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated November 17, 2006, product literature, leather wallet, setting pin, fitted presentation box and outer packaging.
Officially launched in 1985, Patek Philippe’s reference 3940 was released soon after the Quartz crisis. Cased at 36mm in diameter, with a slimmer circular-shaped case, the timepiece is
something completely out of the usual Patek Philippe signature design. Extremely comfortable and contemporary, the watch sits elegantly on the wrist.
The present example of reference 3940 is fitted, and confirmed by its certificate, with an extremely captivating and rare black lacquered dial. With oversized Roman numerals and obelisk white hands, the timepiece is extremely legible, stealthy, and enchanting. The dial features a cross hair leap year indication, sunken sub dials and a two tone 24h indicator.
Inside, the timepiece is powered by the then ultra-thin caliber 240Q, the first movement featuring a micro-rotor. Such versatility, lightness and slenderness did not compromise the movement’s exceptional reliability at all, in fact the timepiece boasts an incredible 48-hour power reserve.
In exceptional overall condition, and complete with its full and original set of accessories, the present timepiece surely commands the attention of collectors worldwide thanks to its captivating and modern looks. Made along side the second and third series, the present watch with platinum case retains strong proportions and crisp hallmarks, rendering it a unique opportunity that even the most discerning collectors will definitely not miss.
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
1990
Reference No. 3970E
Movement No. 875’713
Case No. 2’873’912
Material Platinum
Calibre Manual, cal. CH 27-70 Q, 24 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Alligator
Clasp/Buckle Platinum, PPCo pin buckle
Dimensions 36mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle stamped
Estimate
CHF 80,000-160,000
$81,300-163,000
€82,100-164,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe fitted box, Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1990 and its subsequent sale on January 17, 1991, setting pin and outer packaging.
Patek Philippe’s reference 3970 was launched in 1986 as a replacement for the iconic reference 2499. While maintaining the signature aesthetics found in both reference 1518 and 2499 the reference 3970 used a Lemania based ebauch as opposed to the previous Valjoux movement. These models also had a leap year and 24 hour indication for the first time.
The reference was produced in yellow gold, pink gold, white gold and platinum across a total of four series with production spanning over 19 years. It is estimated that throughout its course of production over 4,000 examples of the reference were produced.
The present example is part of the 2nd series with screwed caseback from 1990 making it one of the very last examples from the series before the firm started to offer an extra sapphire caseback marking the dawn of the third series. It is also the 10th platinum example of the 2nd series in platinum known adding an extra element of rarity. to the watch.
The 2nd series also had the particularity of having 4 hallmarks stamped on each side of the lugs, on the present example these hallmarks are clear and crisp, demonstrating that the watch has never been polished.
PATEK PHILIPPE A very attractive and rare platinum perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases, black baton indexes dial, additional caseback, setting pin and certificate of origin
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 2002
Reference No. 3970P
Movement No. 3’046’662
Case No. 4’177’112
Material Platinum
Calibre Manual, cal. 27-70, 24 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Platinum Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions 36mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate
CHF 100,000-150,000
$102,000-152,000
€103,000-154,000
Accessories
Accompanied by 2nd caseback, setting pin, Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin, product literature and leather wallet. Furthermore delivered with Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of this watch with “semi-gloss black dial, white gold sword-shaped indexes” in 2002 and its subsequent sale on December 13, 2002.
Launched in 1986 and in production until 2004, reference 3970 was a proud heir of two other Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronographs: references 1518 and 2499 - and is most probably one of the brand’s most iconic watches of the modern era.
With this reference came a number of introductions to the line, none more important than its new movement.
Built using the world famous Lemania 2310 as its base, the calibre CH 27-70Q was, heavily modified to match Patek Philippe’s extremely high standards in terms of precision, reliability and finishing. It also introduced new features that proved extremely popular with collectors.
Most notably, this was the first Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronograph to indicate leap years, and the first to add a 24-hour chronograph hand. Another noteworthy modification is the slight reduction of the diameter. Despite it’s more complex mechanism, the reference 3970 represented the first drop in size in the perpetual calendar chronograph family, from 37.5mm down to 36mm.
The reference was divided into four series: the first series featured a snap on caseback, with applied gold sword indexes and feuille hands. The second series featured a screw-down, solid caseback, with the hallmarks stamped on the outside of the lugs. The third series featured a sapphire display back along with a screw-down solid caseback like the present example. The Fourth series is identical to the 3rd Series but the movemnet numbering system changed.
Made in yellow, pink and white gold as well as in platinum, the present example is a representative of the latter family. It is fitted with a highly attractive black dial featuring sword indexes - fully confirmed by both Extract and Certificate. This style is a much rarer iteration than the more flamboyant diamond-set numerals, the style usually found on black-dial 3970P.
PATEK PHILIPPE A fine and rare stainless steel automatic wristwatch with certificate of origin and presentation box, retailed by Tiffany & Co. and one five known of its kind
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 2018
Reference No. 5711/1A-10
Movement No. 7’147’782
Case No. 6’234’220
Model Name Nautilus “Tiffany & Co.”
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal.324SC, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Patek Phillippe bracelet, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Patek Phillippe deployant clasp
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed Patek Phillippe, dial further signed Tiffany & Co.
Estimate
CHF 80,000-160,000
$81,300-163,000
€82,100-164,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated October 21, 2018, product literature, wallet, presentation box and outer packaging stamped Tiffany & Co.
The Nautilus - alongside the first luxury steel sport’s watch models from the 1970s - is a remarkable example of the courage and independence of some Swiss watchmakers. Against many,
if not all the stylistic codes that ruled watchmaking until then, a luxury steel sports watch was created and today is the pillar of the Swiss watchmaking industry, with waiting lists so long that one is unable to merely put their name down for a watch today.
Originally envisioned by genius designer Gerald Genta in 1976, the case design is inspired by a luxury cruiser’s portholes, subtly underlining the marriage of elegance and sporty robustness found in this timepiece. Originally marketed as the ultimate status symbol, with strong emphasis on its high cost even though the watch is cased in stainless steel (period advertisements memorably read: “One of the world’s costliest watches is made of steel), the model is today one of the most recognised and appreciated sports watches available on the market.
The present watch is distinguished by the addition of the Tiffany & Co. signature. While a reference 5711 is a rarity itself and already officially discontinued today, the retailer’s signature brings another level of exclusivity. To date, no more than 5 examples of the reference 5711 with blue dial and Tiffany & Co. signature has ever graced the auction market.
Preserved in overall excellent condition and complete with its full set of accessories including the blue Tiffany & Co. pouter box, the present reference 5711 is one of the rarest of all Nautilus models ever produced, no less with such an exclusive signature on the dial.
An extremely rare stainless steel wristwatch with small seconds, power reserve indication, date, moon phases, bracelet, certificate of origin and presentation box, retailed by Tiffany & Co., one of five known of its kind
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year Circa 2019
Reference No. 5712/1A
Movement No. 7’270’630
Case No. 6’317’221
Model Name Nautilus “Tiffany & Co.”
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 240 PS IRM C LU, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Patek Philippe bracelet, max length 170mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions 42.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 80,000-160,000
$81,300-163,000
€82,100-164,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin stamped Tiffany & Co. New York USA dated 9th December 2019, setting pin, instruction manual, 4 additional links, product literature, leather folio, Tiffany & Co. pouches, fitted presentation box and Tiffany & Co. outer packaging.
Displaying a date, power reserve and moon phases complication, the reference 5712 was the successor of reference 3712. It is immediately recognizable from its predecessor due to the lack of hour marker at 7 o’clock. Made to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the famous Nautilus collection in 2006, the model was a commercial success. Its good looks, combined with a hefty presence makes it one of the most desirable modern sports watches available on the market today. In fact, it is incredibly difficult to obtain one at a Patek Philippe retailer, requiring years of waiting to be allocated one. That is even more true - in fact at a superior level of magnitude - when it comes to the extremely sought-after and collectible Tiffany signed examples.
The present reference 5712 blessed with the Tiffany & Co. signature is only the 5th example in steel to appear on the market, underlining the extreme rarity of the watch. Extremely well-preserved in absolutely stunning condition, this reference 5712 retailed by Tiffany & Co. is furthermore accompanied by its Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin and full set of accessories and iconic Tiffany blue packaging.
PATEK PHILIPPE
A highly rare stainless steel annual calendar wristwatch with moonphases, bracelet, certificate of origin and presentation box, retailed by Tiffany & Co. and the only publicly known example of its kind
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 2017
Reference No. 5726/1A-010
Movement No. 7’088’654
Case No. 6’201’522
Model Name Nautilus “Tiffany & Co.”
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 324 S QA, 34 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Patek Philippe bracelet, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions 42mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 70,000-140,000
$71,200-142,000
€71,800-144,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated November 14, 2017 confirming the present watch was sold at Tiffany & Co. in Houston Texas, product literature, wallet, presentation box and Tiffany & Co. outer box.
In 1996, Patek Philippe patented the Annual Calendar complication, a new mechanism that took into account the different lengths of the months and required only one annual adjustment in February. The legibility of the calendar functions were made easy thanks to the month and day that were indicated via two apertures on the top part of the dial whereas the date, moonphases and 24 hours indication were placed elegantly on the lower part of the dial.
In a bold move, Patek Philippe decided to merge fine complications and sports chic by launching a Nautilus housing this intelligent and useful complication.
The present watch is fitted with a white dial that displays the signature of storied retailer Tiffany & Co. underneath the moonphase aperture. Tiffany & Co. is Patek Philippe’s longest retailer and partner, their relationship starting since 1851. Such is their good relationship that Tiffany and Co. has been granted the honor of printing their name on some of Patek Philippe’s dials. To date, the present watch is the only known example of the reference 5726 with white dial and a Tiffany & Co. signature to appear on the auction market, underscoring the rarity of the present watch.
58.
PATEK PHILIPPE An elegant and exquisite yellow gold wristwatch with hobnail bezel and certificate, retailed by Tiffany & Co.
59. CARTIER A charming and extremely well-preserved yellow gold wristwatch
Manufacturer Patek
Reference No. 3992
Movement No. 1’195’733
Case No. 2’867’241
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 240, 27 jewels, stamped with the Geneva Seal
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions 33mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed by maker, dial further signed by retailer
Estimate
CHF 10,000-15,000
$10,200-15,200
€10,300-15,400
Accessories
Accompanied by undated Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin stamped by Tiffany, product literature and leather document holder. Furthermore delivered with Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1990 and its subsequent sale on August 30, 1990.
Reference 3992 fully encapsulated the traditional Patek Philippe values of understated elegance. Its elegantly sized 33mm case with simple downturned lugs is granted flair by the hobnail (aka “Clous-de-Paris”) bezel. It was in production for a relatively short time - for a “classical” time only Patek Philippe piece - of 12 years from 1988 to 2000 and it was available in pink and yellow gold.
Beyond its remarkable condition and the presence of the original Certificate, the highlight of the piece is undoubtedly the proud Tiffany & Co. signature present at 6 o’clock. Close examination of the retailer’s signature shows a difference in quality with the Patek Philippe signature. This is because at the time Tiffany themselves would stamp dials in their NY headquarter, a “tradition” that got interrupted when Patek decided to co-brand the watches themselves, in order indeed to maintain the same quality across all graphics. As a result, Tiffany pieces stamped by Tiffany in NY - rather than by Patek Philippe in Geneva - now embody a bygone era and offer an additional level of intrigue to the expert collector.
Manufacturer Cartier
Year Circa 1975
Case No. 7980 and 229
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Cartier buckle
Dimensions 32mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate
CHF 8,000-16,000 ∑
$8,100-16,300
€8,200-16,400
Consigned by the original owner in Geneva who purchased the present watch at the Geneva Cartier boutique in the 1970s, the present watch is a marvel of a bygone era, preserved in excellent and impressive condition. Having never seen any intervention or polishing throughout its lifetime, the case is designed in a “disco-volante” like manner, recalling the 1950s and 1960s. The dial furthermore displays oversized numerals and a guilloché pattern.
The present example of the model impresses with the superb condition of the case. A crisp hallmark is present on the side of the lugs. Most interestingly, the top of the bezel displays a fine vertical finish, with gives dimension to the watch and would have disappeared with the slightest polishing The dial as well is absolutely unrestored and well-preserved and does not display no signs of aging.
60.
ROLEX An eye catching and very well preserved yellow gold, diamond and emerald-set calendar wristwatch
61.
ROLEX A rare and attractive yellow gold, diamond and sapphire-set calendar wristwatch with center seconds
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1978
Reference No. 18038
Movement No.
Material
Estimate
CHF 15,000-30,000
$15,200-30,500
€15,400-30,800
Two elements immediately jump out when admiring the present Day-Date.
First the incredible visually arresting combination of champagne dial, diamond minute markers and baguette emeralds that give the watch an air of glamour and panache and secondly the impeccable state of preservation with a nice, thick and most probably unpolished case with deep crisp hallmarks and the presence of the caseback sticker.
Reference 18038 most notably features a sapphire crystal and an upgraded caliber 3055 that enabled a quick set date function. These were two upgrades from reference 1803, which was fitted with an acrylic crystal and did not allow the wearer to simply change the date by pulling out the crown half way.
The present watch is one among an exceedingly limited number of Day-Dates featuring emerald baguette numerals, such examples come to the market very rarely, and when they do, it is a notable occasion.
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1985
Reference No. 18038
Movement No. 1’669’549
Case No. 9’894’732
Model Name Day-Date
Material 18K yellow gold and sapphires
Calibre Automatic, cal. 3055, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Rolex buckle
Dimensions 36mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 15,000-30,000
$15,200-30,500
€15,400-30,800
Ever glamorous and luxurious, the Day-Date model delights with its myriad of dial, bracelet, bezel and gold-finished designs.
The firm has elevated its Day-Date models with materials such as rubellite, blood stone, coral, and even fossil, providing an unusual design twist to the iconic model.
This rare variant of reference 18038 is fitted with a dial displaying beautiful sapphire baguette-set numerals and champagne tone. It is furthermore preserved in excellent and impressive condition. The case has probably never seen polishing throughout its lifetime, and the dial displays luminous dots that are round and intact, having aged with warm patina.
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1990
Reference No. 16528
Movement No. 33’491
Case No. E322877
Model Name Cosmograph Daytona
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 4030, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 25,000-50,000
$25,400-50,800
€25,600-51,300
Rolex’s first automatic Daytona was introduced in 1988. Housing the iconic Zenith-based caliber 4030, it featured a larger case and was fitted with a sapphire crystal. The watch immediately became a cult classic and garnered an immediate waiting list at Rolex retailers. The gold version reference 16528 was a luxurious alternative to its stainless steel counterpart reference 16520.
The present watch is a very impressive example and preserved in most probably unpolished condition. The fine bevel on the outer edge of the bezel, crisp numbers between the lugs and thick definition on the outside case back are all tell-tale signs that the watch has never seen intervention throughout its lifetime. Furthermore, all hallmarks are crisp, unrubbed and very deep. As watches from the 1980s and 19980s are increasingly considered “neo-vintage”, unspoiled examples are harder and harder to come by. As such, when a watch like the present example comes on the market, it provides an incredible opportunity to acquire a rare specimen.
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1988
Reference No. 16523
Movement No. 13’693
Case No. R984198
Model Name Cosmograph Daytona
Material 18K yellow gold and stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 4030, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K yellow gold and stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 25,000-50,000
$25,400-50,800
€25,600-51,300
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex presentation box and product literature.
For the Daytona’s 25th anniversary, Rolex surprised the public at the 1988 Basel fair by introducing the first self winding chronograph model in its history. The newly launched reference model was powered by a derivative of Zenith’s El Primero caliber modified by Rolex. It was the first Daytona to be equipped with a sapphire crystal and a new larger diameter.
Its launch was an immediate success, resulting in unprecedented demand that would require clients to have to wait as long as seven years to purchase one. Without a doubt, the new model elevated the Daytona to its current mythical status.
This stainless steel and yellow gold Daytona, reference 16523, is part of the famous ‘R’ series from the 1st year of production in 1988. The watch is also fitted with the highly sought after champagne dial featuring the floating “Cosmograph” signature. Preserved in excellent condition, it even retains its original calibrated bezel graduated to 200 units per hour.
Ref.PATEK PHILIPPE A rare and attractive yellow gold open face world-time pocket watch, retailed by Gübelin
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 1946
Reference No. 605
Movement No. 930’542
Case No. 642’704
Model Name Worldtime “Gübelin”
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, cal. 17-170, 18 jewels
Dimensions 44.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial and movement signed, dial further signed Gübelin
Estimate
CHF 40,000-80,000 ∆
$40,700-81,300
€41,000-82,100
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1946 and its subsequent sale on April 2, 1948 and presentation box. Further accompanied by Gübelin Extract from the Archives confirming the sale of this watch.
Reference 605 represents the Patek Philippe pocket incarnation of the World Time (Heures Universelles) mechanism invented by Louis Cottier. Between 1930 and 1964, Cottier delivered to Patek Philippe 95 modified 17-170 movements (considered one of the best time only movements of its time), most of them employed in reference 605, rendering this an astoundingly rare model with a total output below 100 pieces. While some dials featured polychrome enamel depictions of maps, others displayed mythological creatures. The most classic version is the present watch, with a silvered dial.
This wonderfully preserved yellow gold reference 605 features the signature of Gübelin at the center of the dial. Most interestingly, the inside case back bears a series of of minuscule letters. Research shows that this was actually an internal code that Gübelin used. The present watch most notably displays a “long signature”, meaning the watch is a particularly early example made before the manufacture changed their signature to the short “Patek Philippe” version.
The present example impresses with its incredible condition, having developed a layer of charming patina on the bezel - a direct result of being unused to for a very lone time.
AUDEMARS PIGUET A very rare and attractive yellow gold open face minute repeating perpetual calendar watch with split-seconds chronograph and moon
Manufacturer Audemars Piguet
Year 1955
Reference No. 5525BR
Movement No. 26’863
Case No. 26’863
Model Name Grande Complication
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, 18SMCCRQV, 36 jewels
Dimensions 48.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate
CHF 40,000-80,000
$40,700-81,300
€41,000-82,100
Accessories
Accompanied by presentation box and Certificate of Authenticity.
Literature
Similar examples are illustrated in Audemars Piguet by Gisbert L. Brunner, Christian Pfeiffer-Belli and Martin K. Wehrli p. 152-156
The perfect proportions and incredible beauty of the dial, the subtle details and the textured moon and stars make the present Audemars Piguet a visually arresting gem of horological design.
The absolute ultimate expression of watchmaking at its very finest, the present lot features the three elements that collectors and scholars define as a “Grande Complication”: a minute repeater, a perpetual calendar and a split-seconds complication.
In terms of technical mastery, Audemars Piguet has, since its founding in 1875, proven to be one of the greatest, not only creating bewildering complications under its own name but also supplying movements to others.
Made in 1955, at a time when the wristwatch had all but replaced the pocket watch, it is interesting to see that Audemars Piguet not only had the desire but the technical capabilities, know how and dexterity to create such complicated timepieces.
The present watch is a rare version with a two tone dial.
Manufacturer Vacheron Constantin
Year 2010
Reference No. 43050/1
Movement No. 684’267
Case No. 684’359
Model Name Mercator
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 1120M, 36 jewels stamped with the Geneva Seal
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Vacheron Constantin pin buckle
Dimensions 36mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 25,000-50,000
$25,400-50,800
€25,600-51,300
Accessories
Accompanied by Vacheron Constantin Certificate of Origin and Warranty, product literature, fitted box and outer packaging.
The enamel dial of the present Mercator represents Germany and parts of surrounding countries and was made in a limited edition of only 20 pieces. The dial of the Mercator is enameled using the champlevé method, meaning the 18K gold dial is first hollowed out in the shape of the countries and other geographical features as well as the two sectors for hours and minutes. The resulting recesses are then filled with multiple layers of opaque enamel to form a suitable background. Each layer needs to be carefully fired at a temperature of 700° to 800° C (1290° to 1470°F) and, once it has cooled, meticulously smoothed before receiving the appropriate colors, in this case: green, yellow and purple, laid on with a brush composed of a few marten hairs. The operation needs to be repeated for each and every application of enamel, returning to the kiln a good thirty times or more, at various temperatures and for varying lengths of time depending on the color and the quantity of enamel applied. Finally, the workpiece is coated with transparent flux and fired one last time at about 900°C (1650°F) before smoothing and final polishing. Finally, the dials are extensively buffed until each is as flat and glossy as possible. Each individual map takes over twelve days to produce, without taking into account the possible breaking as enamel is extremely brittle and unpredictable.
Launched in 1994 on the occasion of the 400th anniversary of the celebrated Flemish/German cartographer’s passing, the Mercator was extremely cutting edge when it first launched. Gerardus Mercator developed the projection that still bears his name and which rendered the configuration of the terrestrial globe on to a flat surface and became the standard for nautical purposes. It was in 1537 that he published his map of the Holy Land, the first of the 107 which were attributed to him.
The movement of the Mercator is as interesting as its dial. It houses the extra flat (2.45mm thick) cal. 1120 modified for a bi-retrograde time indication. The hands, which have been very ingeniously shaped in the form of a compass, progress divergently across two arc-shaped zones, one graduated from 1 to 12 hours and the other from 0 to 60 minutes. The complexity of the double retrograde hands was made even more difficult by moving the hands to the top part of the dial resulting in the hands and the crown to be on a different axis.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN An attractive pink gold single-button chronograph wristwatch with power reserve indication, pulsometer dial, certificate and box, number 15 of a 260 piece limited edition
Manufacturer Vacheron Constantin
Year 2015
Reference No. 5300S
Movement No. 5’340’786
Case No. 1’319’493 further engraved with limited edition number 15/260
Model Name Harmony Chronograph 260th Anniversary
Material 18K pink gold
Calibre Manual, cal 3300, 35 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Alligator
Clasp/Buckle 18K pink gold Vacheron Constantin deployant clasp
Dimensions 42mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 30,000-60,000 ∑
$30,500-61,000
€30,800-61,600
Accessories
Accompanied by Vacheron Constantin fitted wooden box, Passport, Geneva Seal Certificate of Origin and Conformity, travel pouch, cleaning cloth, loupe and outer packaging.
The present 260 piece limited edition Harmony Chronograph was launched in 2015 in celebration of Vacheron Constantin’s 260th anniversary.
The Harmony Chronograph pays tribute to a cushion shaped monopusher chronograph from the 1930s. The case shape, the hands, the blue numerals and the pulsation scale are all a homage to the piece from the brand’s museum.
In an interesting twist the minutes sub-counter is graduated for 45 minutes and a small circular power reserve indicator (65 hours power reserve) is placed at 6 o’clock.
However, where Vacheron Constantin really impresses is with the development of a brand new chronograph caliber (cal 3300) housed within. It took Vacheron Constantin close to 7 years to develop this movement that features a lateral clutch that reduces friction, a very smooth start/stop/restart chronograph pusher as well as a column wheel in the shape of a Maltese Cross, the emblem of the brand. Vacheron Constantin furthermore spared no effort in the movement finish which is truly beautiful.
A final nod to the brand’s history is the hand engraved balance cock that takes its inspiration from the floral motifs found in some of its original pocket watches.
Limited to 260 pieces , the present Harmony Chronograph is number 15.
Manufacturer Vacheron Constantin
Year 1979
Reference No. 44018/411
Movement No. 685’494
Case No. 536’739
Model Name 222
Material 18K yellow gold and stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 1121, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K yellow gold and stainless steel Vacheron Constantin bracelet, max length 190mm Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold and stainless steel deployant clasp Dimensions 37mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 25,000-50,000
$25,400-50,800
€25,600-51,300
Accessories
Accompanied by Vacheron Constantin Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1979, service papers confirming that the original bracelet was a prototype and further accompanied by an extra steel/gold regular production bracelet.
also features what was considered as a “prototype” bracelet of which around 5 are known.
While the yellow gold centre links on a regular 222 bracelet are soldered onto a steel link, the prototype bracelet features gold centre links on the back, differing from regular production bracelets.
The 222 was launched in 1977 for the brand’s 222th anniversary and it stands apart from the Royal Oak and the Nautilus as it was not designed by Gerald Genta as of common belief, but by the young Jorg Hysek who gave the watch a slightly more cutting edge flair. Hysek was only 24 years old when the 222 launched.
Its tonneau case features a clever one-piece construction opened by a screwed in porthole type fluted bezel giving it a 120m water resistance.
The 222 was available only with an integrated bracelet of the same metal as the case. Within the 222 lies the ultra-thin, automatic calibre 1121, Vacheron’s take on the renowned Jaeger LeCoultre calibre 920 used in the Patek Philippe Nautilus and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak.
The present Vacheron Constantin reference 44018 - better known as the 222 – is not only a rare example in steel and yellow gold of which less than 100 pieces were made, but it
Research shows that during its 7 year production run the 222 “Jumbo” was made in less than 500 pieces in steel, around 150 in yellow gold and less than 100 in steel/yellow gold, making the present timepiece exceedingly rare especially with the “prototype” bracelet.
Manufacturer Vacheron Constantin
1983
Reference No. 46503/415
Movement No. 710’319
Case No. 565’699
Model Name 222
Material 18K yellow gold and diamonds
Calibre Automatic, cal. 12’’’-1124, 33 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K yellow gold and diamond-set Gay Frères for Vacheron Constantin bracelet, max length 155mm
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow and white gold Gay Frères for Vacheron Constantin deployant clasp
Dimensions 34mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed by maker, clasp further signed by bracelet maker
Estimate
CHF 20,000-40,000
$20,300-40,700
€20,500-41,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Vacheron Constantin Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1983 and a Vacheron Constantin Singapore Service Invoice (and relative Tax Invoice) dated March 8, 2022.
The 1970s was an era of upheaval and disruption, with a defiance to societal rules. The Swiss watch business, which prides itself on history, was no exception. It was during this period that the very first steel luxury timepieces were introduced, with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus being the most notable examples. While Gerald Genta developed these two watches, Vacheron Constantin commissioned Jorg Hysek, a young maverick designer, to build a sports luxury watch to honor the brand’s 222nd anniversary in 1977.
The 222’s design is distinguished from its premium sports watch competitors of the era by the scalloped bezel and hexagonal flat links of the bracelet, as well as the little Maltese cross inserted on the case. The present mid-sized watch is extremely singular in appearance, as it is set with pavé diamonds on the center links and dial, giving it a most dazzling appearance. Most interestingly, the diamonds set center links are screwed directly on the bracelet, most possibly due to the fact that they needed to be removed during the diamond setting process. Heavy, lavish and impressive, the present timepiece unabashedly oozes 1970s and 1980s chic.
Manufacturer
AUDEMARS PIGUET A very attractive and technically interesting stainless steel skeletonized wristwatch with double balance wheel and bracelet, with box and guarantee
2022
Reference No. 15407ST
Case No. NA7712N
Model Name Royal Oak Double Balance
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal 3132, 38 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions 41mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 80,000-160,000
$81,300-163,000
€82,100-164,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Audemars Piguet fitted box, International Guarantee and product literature.
Since its inception in 1972 the Royal Oak has gone from being the very first steel leisure/sports watch from a haute horlogerie brand to a design language and a laboratory of ideas and creativity.
With its definitive contemporary appearance with ruthenium plated skeletonized movement the Royal Oak Double Balance – launched in 2016 – takes a very innovative approach to chronometry and precision by presenting a world first: a movement featuring two superimposed balance wheels, each with its own hairspring. This enables greater inertia and more stable timekeeping.
Adding extra flair to an already breathtaking, watch Audemars Piguet has uses a pink gold balance bridge which creates a bold contrast with the slate grey of the movement.
The present watch was purchased in 2022 and remains unworn.
Ref.Manufacturer Audemars Piguet
Year 2022
Reference No. 26240ST.OO.1320ST.04
Movement No. BD4237
Case No. MA1551G
Model Name Royal Oak Chronograph “50th Anniversary”
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 4401, 40 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless Steel Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless Steel Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions 41mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 60,000-120,000
$61,000-122,000
€61,600-123,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Audemars Piguet international warranty card, 50th Anniversary Certificate of origin, instruction manual, outer packaging, hang tag, travel pouch and fitted presentation box.
Released in 2022 to commemorate the 50th Anniversary of the Royal Oak, the present chronograph reference 26240 in stainless steel is one of the most acclaimed models from Audemars Piguet’s latest collection. While exquisitely beautiful thanks to its 41mm sporty case diameter and even more striking and desirable khaki dial, reference 26240 is the first Royal Oak Chronograph equipped with the newest in-house automatic caliber 4401. It is certainly an upgrade over the Frédéric Piguet cal. 1185 thanks to its quirky additions like the flyback chronograph function, vertical clutch and column wheel.
The new in house caliber has also allowed for a rebalancing of the dial and modeling of the case. Now more symmetrical, the dial showcases equally sized subdials with the date window now sitting more close to the edge of the dial at 4 o’clock rather than in the middle, allowing for a more visually pleasing look. The case has slightly increased in thickness (1.4mm to be precise) however still retaining a beautiful silhouette and extreme comfortability on the wrist.
Extremely desirable and sought-after, the present Royal Oak Chronograph is historically important, marking the 50 years anniversary of the Royal Oak.
All proceeds exceeding the cost for the consignor will be donated to charities supporting access to medical care for families in need and orphanages.
OMEGA A possibly unique, extremely unusual and superbly important stainless steel prototype chronograph wristwatch with additonal 24-hour hand and bezel
Manufacturer Omega
Year Circa 1968
Reference No. 145012-68SP
Movement No. 0001650
Model Name Speedmaster Professional, “Flightmaster Prototype”
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Manual, cal. 861, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Omega Pin buckle
Dimensions 42mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 60,000-120,000
$61,000-122,000
€61,600-123,000
The present piece is the earliest known conceptualisation of what will eventually become the Omega Flightmaster.
While at first glance case and dial would appear to be that of a standard Speedmaster 145012, the additional 24-hour hand and matching bezel are anything but standard.
During the 1960s, the collaboration between NASA and Omega was at its apex. One of their requests was reportedly for a 24-hour bezel (along with a 12-hour and a 5-minute ones as well), which resulted in the present prototype. While eventually rejected by NASA, this watch is the cornerstone onto which Omega will go on to build the Flightmaster (launched in 1969),
According to Omega, the mind behind the design is Frederic Robert, an Omega consultant for professional and maritime watches during the 1960s. His original sketch was gracefully provided to us by Omega. Mr. Robert’s hand is indeed the same which also designed the Flightmaster: Mr. Robert will eventually modify the NASA-suggested 24-hour hand in a 12-hour additional timezone hand (thanks to the outer adjustable 12-hour ring) and will case the piece in a futuristic architecture miles away form the one of the Speedmaster. But it all started here.
We sincerely thank the Omega Museum for their updated scholarship and historical perspective in providing their own invaluable research and information on the present lot.
Courtesy of Omega Museum.
OMEGA An exceptional and rare limited edition stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “MIR – 365 Days” caseback inscription, bracelet, certificate, international warranty, impressive travel case, numbered 1 of a limited edition of 28 pieces which were flown in space for a year
Manufacturer Omega
Year 1993
Reference No. ST 345.0022.105 – PIC 03596.50.00
Case No. 48’294’653, caseback further engraved 1/28
Model Name Speedmaster Professional, “MIR 365 Days”
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Manual, cal. 861, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Omega bracelet, endlinks stamped “812”, max length 215 mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Omega deployant clasp stamped 1479
Dimensions 42mm diameter
Signed Case, dial, bracelet and movement signed
Estimate
CHF 40,000-80,000
$40,700-81,300
€41,000-82,100
Accessories
Accompanied by undated and unstamped International Warranty, limited edition Certificate confirming the present timepiece to be number 1/28, pouches, VHS tape, Omega black book-like presentation box, Houston Space Center pen, Omega Speedmaster book, Omega collection booklet and unique edition MAGISTER Speedmaster collection book.
Literature
The exact same watch is featured in Andrea Foffi’s MAGISTER , A unique Andrea Foffi speedmaster selection, pp. 262-265
While many commemorative endeavors were made for various space missions and accomplishments, the present watch is actually part of an aerospace project, as it physically stayed in space for 365 days at the MIR space station, earning the coveted title of a “flown” wristwatch.
During the cold war the exploration and subsequent control over the outer unexplored space was unquestionably lead by the United States and the Soviet Union. Both sides made it their mission to be the first to be leaders in the age of space exploration, these pioneering efforts yielded significant improvements and discoveries of new technologies that would eventually be transferred to civilian use. In 1986, the Soviet Union effectively built a space station named MIR which operated on Earth’s low orbit. Robustly built, the space craft had an intended life expectancy of five year, however it surpassed those expectations and remained operative till 2001, when the Russian federation removed it from orbit due to age.
The main objective of the MIR space station was conducting study projects on microgravity, and the study of the effects of long-term human spaceflight. In July 1993, during one of those studies, 35 Speedmaster Professional watches where taken on the space station for 365 days to study and observe the effects of microgravity on the mechanism of a watch. Out of those 35 examples, 28 where cased in stainless steel, like the present example, and 7 in yellow gold. Only after their successful return to Earth and after a thorough examination from Omega where they successfully offered on sale to the public, with naturally a dedicative and celebrative engraving on the caseback.
The present Omega MIR is preserved in excellent overall condition, with hardly any signs of wear, other than two extremely small dents present on the caseback. The timepiece has developed a very enticing matte-black, greyish hue on the dial and its hour markers together with its hands have both developed a lovely and homogeneous topicalization to a light caramel color.
Most importantly, out of the extremely limited and low number of examples made, this particular example is the very first reference 345.0022.105 from the rare batch of 28, as it can be seen and confirmed from the caseback. This exact same watch , numbered 1/28, and featured in Andrea Foffi’s book :MAGISTER, A unique Andrea Foffi Speedmaster selection. Completed with its original accessories, the present lot is an unmissable chance for watch lovers and space enthusiasts to own mementos which chronicle one of the most important space missions in the history of humanity.
This watch, in addition of being complete with its "space" accessories, has another absolutely unique peculiarity: it is accompanied by a "unique" copy numbered 1/1, of the XL version (35x50 cm) of the Magister volume, while 40 other examples in this format will be produced with a standard cover. This unique book has a personalized cover where this watch is featured. It is also presented on 8 pages inside.
We are thrilled to offer with the present lot a watch that is widely considered throughout the collector community as a “holy grail” Omega Speedmaster, one of the most rare and fascinating creations of the brand.
It is by now common knowledge that Omega undertook a series of secret projects for Nasa. Codenamed “Alaska” (I to IV), the name had nothing to do with geography, rather was randomly selected according to Omega’s internal rule that demanded new watch projects would be code-named after a city or State (such as the somewhat ominously sounding “Manhattan Project” for the Constellation) while movement projects would be codenamed after birds (such as “Albatross” for the Chrono-quartz)
The present piece is indeed part of this restricted and extremely specific output. According to information received from the Omega Museum, the present piece appears to be a intermediate effort to be placed between the Alaska I (1969) and Alaska II (1970) projects. In fact, while this cannot be 100% confirmed, the Museum thinks this watch might mark “the beginning of said “Alaska II” series of projects.”. It is unnecessary to point out the peculiarity of such a timepiece, even in the already highly uncommon panorama of the Alaska Project pieces.
The collaboration between Omega and Nasa dates back to before NASA’s most famous Apollo 11 moon landing mission. Since then, OMEGA would go on to produce a series of testwatches, all of which were proposed to NASA in a project that would span many years.
Following the cancellation of the Apollo missions after Apollo 17 (missions 18 through 22), there was no immediate use for the ALASKA Project’s test-watches, so the project was temporarily terminated, though remarkable progress had been made. This first phase of the development can be called “ALASKA I”.
Beginning in 1971, Omega began work on a continuation of its secret project, now internally titled “ALASKA II”, which involved several studies and prototypes. The present lot is as mentioned one of the earliest “ALASKA II” prototypes, and is closely related to the production Speedmaster Professional, featuring more similarities to it than Alaska I iterations. At the time, it paired most of the tested technologies of “ALASKA I” (the white dial and a new, red anodized aluminum outer protective case just to name a few) with the trusted and legendary Speedmaster “Moonwatch” case of the (then) current reference ST 145.022.
The “ALASKA II” test-watches were delivered to Houston in the beginning of 1972. While once again considerable progress had been made, since the Apollo Program had come to an end by the end of 1972, the “ALASKA II” test-watches were not retained by the program office and the series of OMEGA’s Alaska Projects came to a halt once more.
As it happens for some Alaska I and Alaska II pieces, the watch comes accompanied with an additional very large, red anodized aluminium case originally intended as a protective heat shield. While highly unlikely it will serve its original function during everyday usage, it adds incredible character to the piece and tremendously highlight its ethos of “space watch”.
Other distinguishing characteristic of the piece are, most notaby, its matte white dial with black racing hands and “Apollo” style register red hands. The dial was made white to better reflect light and radiation in general (polar opposite the the standard Speedmaster’s black dial which would absorb radiation with the consequent risk of overheating).
Additionally, the dial was coated with zinc oxide, a material known for being highly resistant to solar radiation. These “ALASKA” project prototype watches were, notably, the first Speedmasters ever to be fitted with white dials.
OMEGA An extremely rare and unusual stainless steel prototype chronograph wristwatch with white dial and 60 minutes bezel, accompanied by red thermo-protective case, made for NASA
Manufacturer Omega
Reference No. 145.022
Movement No. 001’629
Model Name Speedmaster Professional “Alaska Project”
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Manual, cal. 861, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Omega Stainless Steel pin buckle
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 100,000-200,000
$105,000-210,000
€104,000-207,000
As if these rare elements weren’t enough, it’s fitted with one of the most uncommon bezels to be found on an Alska timepiece, featuring simple 5-minutes markers. It is easy to understand how Nasa eventually demanded a tachometer scale on the bezel (as seen on virtually all other Alaska models), which makes this prototype even more uncommon.
Scholarship suggests this is one of only three examples of the “ALASKA II” project watch with the original red protective case – one residing permanently in the Omega Museum and the other in a prominent private collection. These prototype watches are therefore amongst the rarest of all Speedmasters. The present lot’s rarity, well-preserved condition, and vibrant aesthetic make it one of the most exciting examples of a Speedmaster to appear on the market. The ultimate in rarity and exclusivity, it is a trophy watch deserving of a prominent place in any collection of important and rare sports watches.
We sincerely thank the Omega Museum for their updated scholarship and historical perspective in providing their own invaluable research and information on the present lot.
Climbing the Highest Peaks
Rolex has established itself as a maker of watches that could go the extra mile and be taken into the world's most harrowing circumstances with confidence.
The following two watches were part of “history in the making”, having played a role in the story below.
It was on May 29, 1953 that Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay successfully reached the top of Mount Everest. Sponsored by Rolex, the two climbers wore a steel Rolex on the wrist during the expedition, setting the path for the first Explorer models to come. Yet, it wasn’t the first time that a Rolex had travelled to the Himalayas.
With the need of creating a new, modern, and welcoming Switzerland after the Second World War, the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Explorations had asked the Government of Nepal for an authorization to explore Mount Everest from the south. It would be at the end of 1951 that the authorization was granted for the following spring 1952; the first Swiss Expedition.
Meanwhile, in Geneva, a group of eight alpine mountaineers were feverishly preparing for an expedition whose goal was to climb a peak of 8,000 meters. Little did they know that their dream to ascend the highest summit in world would soon become reality.
Always at the forefront of innovation and with a wish of pushing the boundaries of what is technically and humanly possible, it comes as no surprises that Rolex would provide each participant of the expedition with a wristwatch, an Oyster Perpetual reference 6098 (similar to lot 75). This was the perfect opportunity to test and improve the reliability and robustness of the watches, using the Himalayan mountains as a living laboratory.
May 28th, 1952 would become a landmark for Switzerland and for the history of mountaineering. Raymond Lambert, accompanied by the sherpa Tenzing Norgay, climbed above the south col of Mount Everest and reached the highest altitude ever achieved by mankind of 8,595 meters. Unfortunately, due to extreme weather condition, the duo had to turn back just before reaching the summit.
Switzerland, fiercely seeking to be the first country to reach the top of Mount Everest, organised a second expedition in Autumn of the same year. Yet, once more, after reaching the south col, the expedition was unfortunately forced to turn back due to extremely cold weather at the altitude of 8,100 metres.
It would be the following year, that, eventually, the English expedition led by Sir Edmund Hilary and Tenzing Norgay would arrive to the top. The rest is history.
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1952
Reference No. 6098
Movement No. 12’475, H51809
Case No. Caseback engraved B6
Model Name Oyster Perpetual “Pre-Explorer Mount Everest ”
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 775, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Nylon NATO
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions 36mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, and movement signed
Estimate
CHF 20,000-40,000
$20,300-40,700
€20,500-41,000
The present reference 6098 in stainless steel is no ordinary watch. It was part of the second Swiss expedition to Mount Everest in Autumn 1952 strapped on the wrist of the SwissAmerican mountaineer & film maker Norman Günter Dyhrenfurth (alongside Raymond Lambert, Lot 76). As one of the main sponsors of the expedition, Rolex provided each mountaineer with a wristwatch such as the present one. It was not a gift, but rather a watch to wear during the expedition and return it to the manufacture for extensive testing upon their descent. Yet, this very watch most probably must have missed the call-back and to our biggest delight, remained in the hands of its wearer for a lifetime.
Given by Dyhrenfurth to the present owner in 2017, a few months before his passing, the watch remains in exceptional condition. The case and smooth bezel are made from one block of steel, characteristic of the reference 6098, and feature a Super Oyster Crown. Celebrating its seventieth birthday this year, the watch retains impressive strong proportions with thick lugs and a sharp engraving “B6” to the caseback. Not even one service mark is to be found in the inside caseback.
Interestingly, no serial number is present between the lugs and the spring bars are completely fixed, most probably to avoid the bracelet coming loose during the expedition. Furthermore a mystery prevails as B6 is engraved on the caseback. Could this be a prototype? A code for the expedition? An individual number?
Powered by the reliable automatic calibre 775, the reference 6098 necessitated a prominently domed caseback, today referred as “Ovettone” and was chronometer rated. This was a key aspect for Rolex which was keen to see the test results upon the return of the expedition.
The dial features a closed minute track, applied arrow hour markers, and applied Rolex coronet at 12 o’clock. The dagger hour markers, triangular indexes inlayed with radium and the lume plots have developed a warm creamy patina and remain perfectly plump and intact. Yet, what immediately draws one’s attention is the beautifully aged “sun ray flower” patina that developed on the dial. This further indicates that the watch was seldom used throughout its entire life. Such well-preserved examples hardly appear on the market, no less possibly a prototype that went all the way to Himalayas and ascended Mount Everest.
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1953
Reference No. 6298 inside caseback further stamped II.67
Movement No. 33’090, H51661
Case No. 955’914, caseback further engraved
“Expedition Suisse A l’Everest 1952, Raymond Lambert”
Model Name Oyster Perpetual
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. A296, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex bracelet, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 3.71
Dimensions 36mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 20,000-40,000 ∆
$20,300-40,700
€20,500-41,000
Accessories
Accompanied by the DVD Everest 1952-2002, Fulfilling the dream of Yves Lambert and Tashi Tenzing climbing Mount Everest in 2002.
With such watch on his wrist, the Swiss mountain guide
Raymond Lambert, accompanied by the sherpa Tenzing Norgay, climbed above the south col of Mount Everest and reached the highest altitude ever achieved by mankind of 8,595 meters on May 28th, 1952. Unfortunately, the duo had to turn back just before reaching the summit.
Upon their return to Switzerland, each member of the Swiss expedition had to return their watch to the manufacture for extensive testing. Lambert, true to his word, brought back his timepiece, which would forever remain in the hands of Rolex. In exchange of his great contribution and to express their gratitude, Rolex would eventually gift him the present watch, an Oyster Perpetual reference 6298 with a caseback engraving “Expedition Suisse A l’Everest 1952 – Raymond Lambert”. Meanwhile, the original reference 6098 resides within Rolex's collection.
May 28th, 1952 would become a landmark for Switzerland and for the history of mountaineering. Always engaged with exploration, scientific advancement, and the arts, Rolex was adamant in having one of its watches on the summit of the world. In Spring 1952, it provided each participant of the first Swiss expedition to Mount Everest with an Oyster Perpetual reference 6098 (similar to lot 75).
The present wristwatch is fitted with a light silvered dial. The watch retains strong proportions with thick lugs and a sharp engraving to the caseback. Interestingly, the caseback dates to 1967 while the case is from 1953. The original caseback was most probably exchanged during a service and replaced with the current one. Yet, in recognition of Raymond Lambert’s extraordinary ascend of Mount Everest, the watchmaker reproduced the original engraving “Expedition Suisse A l’Everest 1952 – Raymond Lambert” that is almost always erased through polishing over time.
Originally acquired from the family of Raymond Lambert, the present watch with such an incredible provenance is sure to delight collectors who enjoy adventure and history as much as pure and thoughtful designs.
Ref. 6298 Oyster Perpetual Raymond Lambert - Swiss 1952 Everest ExpeditionMovement
Case
Model
Material
Calibre Automatic,
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 195 mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex
Dimensions
CHF
Accompanied
The Milgauss is the result of a direct collaboration between Rolex and the Geneva-based nuclear-research organization, CERN - Centre Européen de Recherche Nucléaire (European Organization for Nuclear Research). Their aim was to develop a wristwatch that could withstand intense magnetic fields and thus be worn by the CERN engineers and laboratory workers constantly in highly magnetic environments.
Reference 1019 was introduced to the market as the successor of reference 6541 and 6543. While the new Milgauss retained its Faraday Cage in order to protect the movement from electromagnetic waves, the model also featured a fresh and modern update to its appearance such as a smooth bezel and modified dial layout.
Offered with its original guarantee, this watch is preserved in excellent condition with sharp bevels and crisp edges. Furthermore, the luminous on both the hands and numerals have aged evenly to a wonderful ivory tone.
78.
ROLEX A highly collectible stainless steel wristwatch with center seconds, large orange 24-hour hand, date, MKI dial, bracelet, original purchase invoice and box
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1972
Reference No. 1655
Movement No. D276210
Case No. 3’181’610
Model Name Explorer II “Freccione”
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “580” and “78360” to the endlinks, max length 205mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped “N4 78360”
Dimensions 39mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 12,000-18,000 $12,200-18,300 €12,300-18,500
Accessories
Accompanied by original purchase invoice from Mappin & Webb (Bradford, York) detailing purchase of the present watch with bracelet on January 1, 1976 for the amount of 138GBP, 3 sales tag, Rolex UK service document dated October 20, 1995, product literature, presentation box and outer packaging.
The Rolex Explorer II was first introduced in 1971 by the way of the ref. 1655. Providing a completely refreshed configuration with the absence of the traditional 3-6-9 dial configuration
and furthermore featuring a 39mm diameter Oyster case, it also is equipped with a 24-hour bezel and a large orange 24-hour hand - which gave it its Italian nickname “Freccione”, meaning “big arrow”. Designed for explorers (unsurprisingly) and professionals alike, it specifically winks to speleologists as the large orange luminous hand is intended to be visible also in the low light conditions of a cave, and it allows to track the day/ night cycle in case of prolonged underground expeditions.
With its production spanning to the mid-1980s, the ref. 1655 was released with a total of 5 different marks as well as two service dials (one with tritium and one with luminova). The earliest examples of the reference known as the Mark I featured a distinctive straight center seconds hand, without the luminous dot found in later marks. Fully retaining this characteristic, and offered in extremely attractive condition of both case and dial, the present piece will delight the “completist collector” with an accessory hardly ever present in vintage pieces (and actually modern ones as well): the original purchase invoice dating to January 29, 1986. From such document it transpires that the watch/bracelet combo was bought at the Bradford, York Mappin & Webb boutique for the amount of 138 GBP (with a 15GBP discount on the listed price of 153 GBP).
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1958
Reference No. 6541
Movement No. N699139
Case No. 412’424
Model Name Milgauss
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 1055, 25 jewels, soft iron antimagnetic inner back, butterfly rotor
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster riveted bracelet stamped “455B” to the endlink, max length 220mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped “3 66”
Dimensions 38mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 150,000-300,000
$152,000-305,000
€154,000-308,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex wooden presentation box and additional suede strap with stainless steel Rolex pin buckle.
The present watch is representative of one of the unarguably scarcest and most sought-after Rolex models to ever grace the market. Released in 1956, reference 6541 targeted at a very specific market: scientists, engineers and technicians working with high magnetic fields. It might well be one of the scarcest Rolex models as the intended market was indeed extremely restricted. The present example, with caseback stamped
IV.1958 indicating it was produced in the fourth quarter of 1958, is one of the earliest examples reference 6541 produced and presents a compendium of traits which will delight the collector. Not only it is perfectly preserved without marks or scratches to the surface, but it furthermore achieved an outstanding dark chocolate tropicalisation.
Its case number 412’424 is consistent with other examples of the reference, as most appear to bear a 412’xxx serial number. An additional intriguing detail of this specimen can be found behind the lugs: five service marks have been hand-engraved behind both top lugs and the bottom left lug, and all apparently done by the same watchmaker given the similarity in their code: 28060VA, 41414VA, 1805VA, 8844VA, 15651VA. While extremely unusual to find such a mark on the outside of the case, other examples of the reference are known with such peculiar engraving to the outside of their cases - see lot 112 in the Geneva Watch Auction XV in May 2022. A possible explanation could lie in the fact that such a professional timepiece might have been serviced locally at the institution where the owner worked, with the numbers to the outside coding some service (or regulation) information for quick reference. Such a thesis is boosted by the fact that this watch is a non-luminous version of the model. Ref. 6541 is known with and - such as in this instance - without luminous hands/dial. Considered the intended operational environment of the piece (scientific laboratories and such) and the high radioactivity of radium-based luminous material of the time, it is speculated that no-lumes versions were reserved for technicians which needed no outside source of radiation during their work - such as CERN technicians.
80.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN An extremely rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with prototype dial, large date and bracelet
81.
AUDEMARS PIGUET A fine and attractive ceramic wristwatch with a 15-minute orange scale and minute hand, date and center seconds, Extract and presentation box
Manufacturer Vacheron Constantin Year 2001
Reference No. 49140
Movement No. 881’789
Case No. 729’610
Model Name Overseas "Prototype Dial"
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal 1137, 37 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Vacheron Constantin bracelet, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Vacheron Constantin deployant clasp
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 12,000-20,000
$12,200-20,300
€12,300-20,500
Accessories
Accompanied by Vacheron Constantin Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 2001.
Vacheron Constantin launched the Overseas in 1996. It was a sports/chic watch that received design cues from the 222, which was launched almost 20 years before, and displayed a
tonneau-shaped case with a round serrated bezel this time in the form of a broken Maltese cross. The first model was launched in a time only format, including an extremely rare left handed version made in only 3 pieces, followed in 1999 by the chronograph housing the automatic calibre 1137 based on the Piguet calibre 1185, specially modified to add a big date mechanism like the present model.
Says JC Torres, Vacheron Constantin’s CEO at the time the Overseas was launched “With time the Overseas has become symbolic of Vacheron Constantin, but I don’t define it as a sports watch, but rather a casual / leisure watch. A sports watch is made for sports, the Overseas of course can be worn during sport activities but it is a discreet model which can be worn during week ends, leisure periods and fit for every day use.”
The present Overseas Chronograph features a blue dial with black subdials and outer seconds track, a dial that was never officially launched and fitted to only a few test and presentation models making this configuration extremely rare and as such offering the possibility to acquire a Vacheron Constantin timepiece that was never offered to the public.
Manufacturer Audemars Piguet
Year 2013
Reference No. 15707CE.00.A002CA.01
Case No. I’01084, 0015
Model Name Royal Oak Offshore
Material Ceramic
Calibre Automatic, cal. 3120, 40 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Rubber
Clasp/Buckle Titanium Audemars Piguet pin buckle
Dimensions 42mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement bracelet and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 15,000-30,000
$15,200-30,500
€15,400-30,800
Accessories
Accompanied by Audemars Piguet digital Extract confirming production on September 24, 2013, instruction manual, hang tag, product literature, fitted presentation box and outer packaging
Officially released in 2012, The Royal Oak Offshore Diver has gradually become an iconic and acclaimed timepiece in the realm of Audemars Piguet sports watches.
The 42mm diameter case, forged in matt black ceramic renders the timepiece extremely stealthy and comfortable to wear. For the first time in the Diver’s collection, Audemars Piguet has opted for an open caseback, finally revealing the automatic inhouse caliber 3120 with its beautifully finished 22ct gold rotor.
The movement boasts a 60-hour power reserve and the timepiece itself has a water resistance depth rating of 300m. The black ceramic pusher at 10 o’clock controls the inner rotating aluminum bezel, allowing divers to record with precision and ease the time elapsed during their immersions. Furthermore a 15-minute scale has been painted orange, immediately standing out and easing legibility.
The dial, being in harmony with the ceramic case is also black coloured and features the sporty “Méga Tapisserie” pattern with white gold applied hour-markers.
Overall, this ceramic Diver truly encapsulated the concepts of stealth, sportiness, and masculinity with an “all-black” look with orange accents on the inner rotating bezel and minutes hands. In excellent condition the timepiece is a definite must have for those “stealthy” collectors out there.
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1971
Reference No. 6262 inside caseback stamped 6262
Case No. 2’737’298
Model Name Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman”
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “571” and “78350 19” to the endlinks, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped “DE6 78350”
Dimensions 36.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 120,000-240,000
$122,000-244,000
€123,000-246,000
Reference 6262 - and its acrylic bezel counterpart 6264 - has a very interesting place in the history and evolution of the Cosmograph Daytona. It replaced reference 6239 in 1969 (and similarly ref. 6264 replaced ref. 6241), the main difference being the new caliber 727 while the aesthetics of the watch remains practically unchanged, featuring a non-Oyster case with pump pushers.
A proper Oyster case with screw-down pushers had been introduced in 1965 with ref. 6240, but the original response of the market was less than enthusiastic. So much so that when reference 6240 was discontinued in 1969 alongside ref. 6239 and 6241, no upgraded caliber version was offered, and the only Daytona models left in the catalogue were the non-Oyster versions 6262 and 6264. Thus, reference 6262 represents a very unusual, transitional model with pump pushers and the new caliber 727. Its discontinuation not only represents Rolex’s ability to admit a miscalculation and swiftly correct it, but it furthermore makes it one of the rarest Daytona models, with a production run of 4 short years.
The present example not only encapsulates this historical importance and rarity, but furthermore boosts them to the next level with the addition of an incredibly well-preserved white Paul Newman dial. With its original lumes aged to a charming vanilla tonality and a flawless surface, it has the power to entrance the most seasoned of the collectors. Exactly what one would expect to find on this 2.7M serial watch, the dial features a white outer scale with white flat T Swiss T designation, an evolution from the previously seen red scales with sing-a-song T Swiss T designation.
Ref. 6262 Cosmograph Daytona "Paul Newman"Manufacturer Audemars Piguet
Year Circa 2022
Reference No. 16202ST.OO.1240ST.01
Movement No. BE7690
Case No. GX1871C
Model Name Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin “50th Anniversary”
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 7121, 33 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions 39mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 40,000-80,000
$40,700-81,300
€41,000-82,100
Accessories
Accompanied by Royal Oak 50th Anniversary certificate of origin dated February 1st, 2022 in Paris, Audemars Piguet warranty card, instruction manual, product literature, hang tag, traveling leather box, outer packaging and fitted presentation box.
Launched in 1972, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak was the world’s first stainless steel luxury sports watch with a fully integrated bracelet. Designed overnight in response to an urgent request for an ‘unprecedented steel watch’, it was at
the same time the most expensive stainless steel wristwatch ever made. While today the Royal Oak is a legend, at the beginning it was more than a bet. It was truly revolutionary, the first appearance of what is today's most successful kind of wristwatch: the luxury sports watch in steel.
The Royal Oak Jumbo reference 16202ST, descendant of the original 1972 model was released this year 2022 to mark the highly anticipated 50th anniversary of the icon. From a quick look, the watch seems fairly similar to its predecessor the reference 15202ST. Yet, one should not be fooled! Powered by the brand new ultra-thin self-winding calibre 7121, the movement of the reference 16202ST features an upgraded power reserve of 55 hours and is fitted with a new rhodiumtoned pink gold "50-years" oscillating weight, which will set the foundation for the new in-house calibres to come. For this watch, Audemars Piguet also patented a new quick-set date mechanism that will delight the new owners for a simple and easy wear. Gone are the days of painful fingers from turning the crown back and forth for endless minutes every time you wished to set the date. Unworn, in steel and displaying the most desirable special anniversary Bleu Nuit dial, the present example from 2022 is offered by the original owner and complete with its full set of accessories
All proceeds exceeding the cost for the consignor will be donated to charities supporting access to medical care for families in need and orphanages.
ROLEX A highly rare and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “Big Red” dial and bracelet
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1983
Reference No. 6263
Case No. 7’627’604
Model Name Cosmograph Daytona “Big Red”
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions 37.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 50,000-100,000
$50,800-102,000
€51,300-103,000
Reference 6263 can be arguably considered the most iconic of the manually-wound Daytona models. Launched in the early 1970s and in production until 1987, it is defined by the screw pushers and the bezel with black acrylic insert.
The present specimen is defined by its “Big Red” dial. The final evolution of the manual Daytona dial, it is found on the last specimen of reference 6263 (and its metal-bezel brethren 6265) and is characterized by a very prominent Daytona designation above the 6 o’ clock subsidiary dial in bright red ink.
The present specimen is blessed with what can be considered a virtually flawless dial with no losses to the luminous material (a rarity in itself) and the condition of the case perfectly match that of the face: extremely sharp and retaining all its original proportions.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN
incredibly attractive ultra slim white gold perpetual calendar with bracelet, guarantee and box
Manufacturer Vacheron Constantin
Year 2022
Reference No. 4300V
Case No. 2’960’604
Model Name Overseas Perpetual Calendar "Ultra Slim"
Material 18K white gold
Calibre Automatic, cal 1120 QP/1, 35 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K white gold Vacheron Constantin bracelet measuring 190mm
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Vacheron Constantin deployant clasp
Dimensions 41.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 70,000-140,000
$71,200-142,000
€71,800-144,000
Accessories
Accompanied by fitted box, Guarantee certificate, Certificate of Origin and Conformity, product literature, hang tag, setting pin, winding box, extra rubber strap and pin buckle, outer packaging.
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas finds its roots in the brand’s iconic casual chic 222 model launched in 1977.
The present Overseas is part of the third generation models featuring a slightly redesigned case and an extremely ingenious and easy to use rapid bracelet switching system. It is with the third generation models that the full potential of the Overseas was unleased with the presentation of highly complicated pieces including a tourbillon and an extremely elegant ultra slim perpetual calendar.
The present example is as stunning as it is stealth. The ultra slim (8.1mm) white gold case and bracelet have a heft and sheen that immediately set it apart. The dial is enthralling with its incredible deep blue lacquer dial and translucent multi-layered moonphases display.
The movement in itself is a technical feat. Even though it consist of 276 components, cal. 1120 QPSQ/1 measures a mere 4.05mm in thickness and is stamped with the prestigious Geneva seal.
In almost unworn condition and accompanied with its full set of accessories and protective bracelet sticker, the present Overseas perpetual calendar ultra slim in white gold is a must have for the collector looking for a high quality complicated casual chic timepiece.
VACHERON
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 2021
Reference No. 5160/500G
Movement No. 7’382’349
Case No. 6’404’800
Material 18K white gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 324 S QR, 30 jewels, stamped with the Patek Philippe Seal
Bracelet/Strap Patek Philippe alligator strap
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold hand-engraved Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions 38mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 70,000-140,000 ∑
$71,200-142,000
€71,800-144,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin, Rare Handcraft Certificate of Authenticity, setting pin, product literature, leather wallet, wooden presention box with special decoration, and outer packaging.
Throughout its long and prestigious history, Patek Philippe has been associated with quality workmanship and innovative movements. Their early pocket watches were often engraved with intricate designs adding elegance and grace, occupying the highest echelons in terms of quality. While the craftsman capable of such intricate work are slowly disappearing, Patek Philippe continues to employ skilled artisans keeping the tradition alive. The reference 5160 is a modern perpetual calendar wristwatch steeped in the firm’s past. An heir to ref 5159, it maintains the “Officier”-style case of its predecessor, reminiscent of watches from the early 20th century with its hinged back, and ups the ante with an incredibly artful handengraved arabesque motif reminiscent of Belle Époque style.
Released in 2010 and produced in yellow, pink and white gold - with the white gold version being the only one today still present in the catalogue - the enormous amount of work demanded by the case, furthermore doable only by a handful of skilled artisans, necessarily commands and extremely low output for the model. The white gold version exemplified by the present piece - offered with all its accessories and in superb condition - features an additional detail compared to the yellow and pink ones. The grooves of the engraving are filled with oxidised silver powder, which gives them the dark effect immediately noticeable to the naked eye, increasing the contrast of the engraved elements. Such a finish is by tradition reserved usually to white metal engravings.
dial, double balance wheel,
and exclusive pink gold
and
with center seconds,
Manufacturer Audemars Piguet
Year Circa 2022
Reference No. 15407OR
Movement No. BE8525
Case No. JX8114A
Model Name Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked
Material 18K pink gold
Calibre Automatic, cal 3132, 38 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K pink gold Audemars Piguet bracelet stamped “1220” to the endlinks, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle 18K pink gold Audemars Piguet double deployant clasp
Dimensions 41mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 90,000-180,000
$91,500-183,000
€92,300-185,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Guarantee card, instruction booklet, warranty booklet, sale tag, wooden presentation box and outer packaging.
Introduced at the 2016 SIHH, the double balance wheel skeletonized movement powering this model took the market by surprise. A patented Audemars Piguet innovation, the main idea consists of adding a second balance wheel and spiral to the escapement, thus increasing the timekeeping capabilities and resistance to mechanical perturbations thanks to increased momentum. As what happens with many groundbreaking ideas, the basic concept was simple but the execution of it turned out to be devilishly complicated. All efforts Audemars Piguet poured in the conception of this model were however definitely not in vain. Not only they achieved to develop a novel solution, but furthermore the dual superimposed wheels turned out to be a striking aesthetic element, allowing the balance wheel to appear completely unobstructed on both dial side and movement side.
As a result, it is not surprising that the model has become one of the most sought-after Audemars Piguet creations. Phillips is proud to offer an absolutely mint and unworn example - still retaining its plastic protection and factory stickers - of this masterpiece, and even more proud to be able to do so for a good cause:
All proceeds exceeding the cost for the consignor will be donated to charities supporting access to medical care for families in need and orphanages.
Ref.Patek Philippe has always been the go-to brand by the cognoscenti for not only elegant and refined timepieces, but also for complicated horological works of art with a sotto voce sophistication.
In 1993, Patek Philippe decided to unite, in its Calatrava-style case, three of the complications most highly prized by devotees of exceptional watches: the tourbillon, the minute repeater and the perpetual calendar with moon-phase display. While Patek Philippe had been a pioneer in the development of awardwinning tourbillon-equipped escapements in observatory competition wristwatch movements, there had not yet been a tourbillon wristwatch produced in series until this exceptional reference was launched.
In fact, it wasn’t until 2001 and the launch of reference 5002 –the Sky Moon Tourbillon – that Patek Philippe presented a more complicated piece.
Produced in yellow, white and rose gold, as well as platinum, the watches featured silvered or black dials with the movement number printed below the moon phase – a nod to the observatory chronometer pocket watches of yesteryear. It is believed that approximately 200 examples were manufactured until production ended in 2011. The movement of the reference 5016 is composed of over 500 individual components, all handfinished to perfection. The dial features a rare retrograde date sector, which Patek Philippe featured on a few select, future references including the 5050, 5059, 5159 and 5160.
PATEK PHILIPPE A superlative, extremely rare and important yellow gold minute repeating perpetual calendar wristwatch with tourbillon, retrograde date, moon phases, Breguet numerals, additional solid caseback, setting pin, certificate of origin, and presentation box
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 2004
Reference No. 5016J-011
Movement No. 1’905’089
Case No. 4’214’395
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, cal. RTO 27 PS QR, 28 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Alligator
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold deployant clasp
Dimensions 37mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 250,000-500,000 ∑
$254,000-508,000
€256,000-513,000
Accessories
Accompanied by fitted box, Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin, large leather folio, poinçon de Genève certificate, product literature, additional solid caseback, setting pin and outer packaging.
The minute repeating function has an exceptional tone, fullness, and cadence. Housed in a relatively compact 37mm case, the expansive layout and arched lugs allows for significant presence on the wrist without any hint of ostentatiousness.
Preserved in excellent condition, the present reference 5016 in yellow gold is fresh to the market and one of only 12 yellow gold examples known. Even rarer still is the presence of all its original accessories, including the fitted box, Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin, large and leather folio, poinçon de Genève certificate, product literature, additional solid caseback, setting pin and outer packaging. It is an incredibly rare occurrence when a reference 5016 as “complete” as the present example ever comes on the market.
Reference 5016 is a timepiece of incredible appeal and rarity, a watch that many covet but only few can possess.
One example, most notably in stainless steel was sold at the Phillips Only Watch sale in Geneva in 2015 for 7,300,000 CHF.
DE BETHUNE
incredibly charismatic and rare sandblasted titanium wristwatch with date, 6 days power reserve, certificate of origin and presentation box
Manufacturer De Bethune
Year Circa 2015
Reference No. DB27S2
Movement No. DB.G.003.058
Case No. No. 014
Model Name Titan Hawk
Material Titanium
Calibre Automatic, Cal. S233, 38 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Titanium De Bethune pin buckle
Dimensions 43mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial and movement signed.
Estimate
CHF 30,000-50,000 ∑
$30,500-50,800
€30,800-51,300
Accessories
Accompanied by original De Bethune undated Certificate of Origin and Warranty instruction manual, travel case, presentation box, and two crocodile straps.
For Denis Flageollet, the co-founder of De Bethune as well as its master watchmaker, innovation is the guiding principle of watchmaking. Rather than simply modifying or improving traditional techniques, he takes a precise mathematical and
scientific approach with regards to the technical process, case and movement architecture, and finishing of each of his watches. All this results in some of the most visually striking and masterful products in contemporary horology. Since its inception in 2002, De Bethune has given birth to over thirty in-house calibers and a dozen patent registrations, constantly debuting new and exciting innovations.
The present DB 27 in titanium is slightly different to the other models from this family from the fact that the case is not fully polished titanium but the flat bezel and the floating lugs are brushed giving the watch greater contrast with the vivid and charismatic salmon dial.
The fully in-house caliber S233 features many of the De Bethune in-house developed innovations, like the patented self-regulating twin barrel, silicon/white gold balance and the balance spring with flat terminal curve, the triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system, the titanium/platinum oscillating weight and the silicon escape-wheel which can be admired via the porthole in the back. The watch also boasts a 6 day power reserve.
The Titan Hawk in titanium with salmon dial was made in only 22 pieces of which only a handful were made with the brushed titanium elements.
DBManufacturer F.P. Journe
Year 2014
Case No. 275-CB
Model Name Chronomètre Bleu
Material Tantalum
Calibre Manual, cal. 1304, 22 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Alligator
Clasp/Buckle Tantalum F. P. Journe buckle
Dimensions 39mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 30,000-60,000 ∑
$30,500-61,000
€30,800-61,600
Accessories
Accompanied by F. P. Journe Certificate of Authenticity dated March, 2014 and presentation box.
With its tantalum case with grey/blue hue and its incredible chrome blue dial, F.P. Journe’s Chronomètre Bleu has entered the exclusive realm of timepieces that can be immediately recognized.
In 2011, Journe decided to introduce an entry level wristwatch to his notoriously highly complicated collection and went against the current (as usual) by creating a watch that hit the industry with a thunderous bang and immediately hit a sweet spot with collectors.
The excitement delivered was through Journe’s innovative approach in creating a case made out of the highly rare and delicate to handle tantalum, with a blue/grey tint perfectly complementing the amazing sheen of the blue chrome dial.
The movement is Journe’s caliber 1304 executed in pink gold and displays an equally high standard of execution and finish witnessed on all F.P. Journe wristwatches.
The present Chronomètre Bleu is fresh to the market and consigned by the original owner.
Manufacturer Ressence
Year Circa 2015
Reference No. Type 3
Case No. 13/50
Model Name Le Scaphandrier
Material Titanium
Calibre Automatic, cal ROCS 3, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions 44mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate
CHF 15,000-30,000
$15,200-30,500 €15,400-30,800
Accessories
Accompanied by Ressence owner’s manual, guarantee card, fitted box and outer packaging.
Since its creation in 2010, Ressence has continuously surprised collectors with its novel time-telling indication - in a way, the brand has modified our perception of the way time should be read.
At first glance it seems that there are no moving hands on the dial of the present piece but this horological wonder is a pure marvel of design that shakes the traditional watchmaking codes. Instead of
having a dial on which hands would rotate, it is the entire structure of the dial that moves with 4 independent subdials to display hours, minutes, seconds, day of the week and date.
The Type 3 ups the ante at Ressence with a new system using oil as to do away with the refraction of light giving the impression that the hands are literally floating in mid-air! This impressive result is obtained by the fact that the top half of the watchbetween dial and crystal- is filled with oil. The watch furthermore features a magnetic transmission to connect the dry lower half - where the calibre is located - to the oil-filled upper half, as well as seven bellows to compensate for oil volume changes due to temperature variations.
One will notice as well that there is no visible crown on the watch, either on the case side or back. The caseback itself can be used to set all the functions and to wind the watch.
Originally the Type 3 pieces needed to have the caseback rotated a certain degree as to select the specific feature (time setting, date, winding and day of the week), the majority of these pieces had this feature modified to a more simple system when the watches came back for servicing, the present Type 3 is one of the very rare examples that have maintained their original setting mechanism.
Number 13 of a limited edition of 50 pieces the present Ressence Type 3 is a fabulous evolution of a revolutionary timepiece.
URWERK A very fine and rare, stainless steel and titanium wristwatch with orbiting satellite hours, distance travelled on earth and distance travelled by earth indication, warranty and presentation box, made in a limited edition of 25 pieces
Manufacturer Urwerk
2020
Reference No. UR-100V IRON
Case No. G20’072
Model Name UR-100
Material Titanium and stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. UR-12.02, 39 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Nylon and Leather
Clasp/Buckle Titanium Urwerk pin buckle
Dimensions 41mm width x 49.7mm length
Signed Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 25,000-35,000
$25,400-35,600
€25,600-35,900
Accessories
Accompanied by undated Urwerk warranty stamped GMT Italia
Srl, instruction manual, product literature, leather holder, and long traveling pouch.
The UR-100V can be clearly seen to take its inspiration from the regular UR-100 series. The slim case and signature orbital satellite time display are all features proudly displayed on the present UR-100 V Iron timepiece. The Geneva crosses suspending each of the rotating satellite hour disks are made from a beryllium-bronze alloy, while the carousel that rotates each disk is made in shot-peened aluminum. The circular brushed disks themselves, along with the baseplates, are made from an advanced antimagnetic ARCAP alloy.
The timepiece amazingly does not only indicate the time through its satellite hours and retrograde minutes, additionally two indications are featured on both sides of the dial indicating distance travelled on earth and distance travelled by earth. The additional ‘space-time’ indications won’t be of practical use in daily life, but it is Urwerk’s vision and invitation for the wearer to imagine what a space-age universe will be like.
Urwerk never ceases to attract its collectors attention with its daring, cutting-edge watches. This has been the case with the UR-100 V Iron, which introduced the companies recently upgraded self-winding cal. 12.02. The UR-100V Spacetime is a limited edition of 25 pieces in steel like the present example and is offered in excellent overall condition with its original accessories.
Iron
Manufacturer Lang & Heyne
Year Circa 2015
Movement No. 25
Model Name Friedrich III
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Manual, cal. VI, 19 jewels and a diamond endstone
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Lang & Heyne pin buckle. Additional stainless steel Cmaille Fournet double deployant clasp.
Dimensions 39mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 25,000-50,000
$25,400-50,800
€25,600-51,300
Accessories
Accompanied by Lang & Heyne Certificate and rating Report, instruction leaflet, massive wooden presentation box and outer packaging.
Headquartered in Dresden Germany and founded in 2001 by two talented young watchmakers Macro Lang and Mirko Heyne, the German independent brand is the quintessential of hand-made Saxon tradition. Recognized by collectors for its incredible artisanal craftsmanship and philosophy, the brand rapidly gained a cult following that demanded attention.
Debuted in Baselworld 2013, the present Friedrich III was inspired by the straightforward thinking of Friedrich III who
took over the regions of Meissen and Thuringia from his father in 1349. Featuring discreet elegance with thin weighted and elongated Roman numerals instead of Arabic numerals from its sibling Friedrich II, the model was released in either frosted silver or galvanic black dial fitted in an array of metals.
Proportioned with sophistication, the present Friedrich III cased in 39mm diameter stainless steel with a stunning black dial features an unusual pair of spade hands instead of the standard pairing of cathedral hands. Special requested by the original owner with the appreciation of simplicity, the present Friedrich III embodies an atypical monochromatic appearance with effortless grace.
On the reverse is a breath-taking exhibition of the trigonal bridge movement that excites aficionados. Powered by the golden grained in-house Caliber VI that displays incredible craftsmanship, each component from the engraved balance cock down to each individual blued stainless steel screw is made entirely in-house. The winding wheels feature a stunning snailed finish, and its balance bridge polished with a diamond set on top. Considering that the workshop produces not more than 15 screws a day, it is hard to believe the amount of time Lang & Heyne uses to create an entire wristwatch.
It is thought that the yearly production of the brand does not reach triple digits.
Preserved in excellent overall condition, the present example numbered 25 was produced during the early years of the Lang & Heyne before the departure of Marco Lang.
Manufacturer F.P. Journe
Year 2021
Case No. 346-QP
Model Name Quantième Perpétuel
Material 18K pink gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 1300.3, 39 jewels
Bracelet/Strap F.P. Journe alligator strap
Clasp/Buckle 18K pink gold F.P. Journe pin buckle
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 80,000-160,000 ∑
$81,300-163,000
€82,100-164,000
Accessories
Accompanied by F.P. Journe Guarantee card dated November 17 2021 and stamped by Swiss retailer “Embassy Jewel AG”, wooden presentation box and outer packaging.
F.P. Journe launched his first perpetual calendar timepiece as part of the Octa line of watches, but in 2013 he introduced a completely new dial architecture: moving away from the quirky retrograde date indication so far employed, the dial now features all calendar indications neatly framed in 4 windows: one for the day, one for the month, and two for the large date. The leap year indication is “hidden in plain sight”: a minuscule third hand indicates the leap year cycle on a small subsidiary dial at the very center of the dial.
Originally defined by an ovoidal metal frame encircling the central part of the flat two-tone dial, in 2020 the collection’s aesthetic canons were revised. It now features a monochromatic ivory dial with applied numerals on a flat outer track, and guilloché decoration for the center of the dial. Thus, Journe brought the model closer to the style employed in their Souverain line of watches.
Offered in practically as new condition - having been delivered in December of last year - by its original owner, the present timepiece is a delightfully wearable complicated creation by one of the most celebrated contemporary independent watchmakers.
CARTIER An extremely rare, previously unknown and most probably special order yellow gold wristwatch with jumping hours and crown at 12 o’clock
Manufacturer Cartier
Year 1996
Case No. A110020
Model Name Tank à Guichets
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, jeweled
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K gold Cartier deployant clasp
Dimensions 24.5mm Width and 35.5mm Length
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 40,000-80,000
$40,700-81,300
€41,000-82,100
A variant of the original Tank wristwatch, the Tank à Guichets was first introduced in 1928. Featuring jumping hours at the upper portion of the dial, the watch also displays a minutes indicator at 6 o’clock. Its name derives from the apertures, which “jump” as the time advances. “Jump Hour” wristwatches
were particularly popular in the 1920s and 1930s. Today, these wristwatches are incredibly evocative of the Art Deco period.
The present watch is an absolutely stunning re-interpretation of the original model. In 1996, Cartier celebrated their 150th anniversary by producing a series of limited edition Tank à Guichets. While 150 examples were produced in platinum with a ruby cabochon crown, 100 examples were produced in pink gold with a sapphire cabochon crown. In addition, for their most exclusive clients, Cartier created three series of Tank à Guichets each in yellow gold, platinum and rose gold, with each series having 3 examples. These models were slightly smaller and had a crown at 12 o’clock - a true ode to the original example from the 1920s.
The present watch thus presents a new discovery to the Cartier horological community - with a serial number of A110020, it is only four digits away from the last known yellow gold special edition Tank à Guichets which is numbered 3/3 and A110016. Thus, one can conclude that Cartier had made this timepiece upon special request for a VIP client who did not have the opportunity to purchase one of the original 3 series produced.
CARTIER An unusual and very rare limited edition pink gold asymmetric wristwatch with Burgundy numerals, certificate and presentation box, made for the Hong Kong market
Manufacturer Cartier
Year 1994
Case No. A111’383 and 1994 33
Model Name Crash
Material 18K pink gold
Calibre Manual, cal. 160, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle 18K pink gold Cartier deployant clasp
Dimensions 38mm Length x 23mm Width
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 100,000-200,000 ∑
$102,000-203,000
€103,000-205,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Cartier International Guarantee Certificate dated 13.11.1994, product literature and presentation box.
however, remains shrouded in mystery. While some attribute its shape to an interpretation of Dali’s famous melted watches, others say the designers at Cartier were inspired by a Cartier Baignoire model that witnessed a serious car accident and was returned to the factory for repair. The name of the model suggests that this latest version is the most plausible. The history of this design has been addressed in Francesca Cartier Brickell’s book, “The Cartiers”, where she recounts a conversation with her grandfather Jean-Jacques Cartier, about how the audacity of the design was sketched out with artisan Rupert Emmerson.
The present Cartier Crash produced in 1994 is one of the rarest variants as it is part of a 40-piece limited edition. Released for the Hong Kong market and cased in 18K pink gold, the model features an extraordinarily rare dash of burgundy against the warm white dial, each Roman numeral painted with the alluring color, the combination matching perfectly with the red tones of the pink metal. The caseback is engraved with “1994 33”, indicating that the timepiece is the 33rd piece of the limited edition.
The Cartier Crash made its appearance in 1967 and it was and still remains today one of the most emblematic asymmetrical watches in horological history. The genesis of its design,
With a roaring demand for the Cartier Crash in recent times, the present example is surely a rare treat for the discerned collector yearning for this beloved icon.
CARTIER A highly rare and attractive platinum limited edition wristwatch with green numerals, original certificate and presentation box, numbered 20 out of a limited edition of 30 examples
Manufacturer Cartier
Year Circa 2000
Reference No. 1734D
Case No. 20/30
Model Name Tank Américaine
Material Platinum
Calibre Manual, cal. 430 MC, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Cartier buckle
Dimensions 44mm Length and 26.5mm Width
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 20,000-40,000
$20,300-40,700
€20,500-41,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Cartier Certificate confirming the present watch is a limited edition series of 30 examples with dark green numerals, product literature and presentation box.
Cartier has always been associated with exquisite craftsmanship and elegant designs, having dazzled both the glitterati and horological world alike with its style, flair and creativity. The present watch, the Tank Américaine, perfectly encapsulates the brand’s ethos with its elegant curved case and brushed finishes.
Presented in excellent condition, this Tank Américaine is cased in platinum and displays dark green numerals. Incredibly eye catching, elegant and striking, it was made for the Italian market in 30 examples only. To date, only a handful of examples have come back on the auction market, underscoring its rarity. It is furthermore accompanied by its original certificate confirming the present watch is part of a limited edition series and presentation box.
99. ROLEX An extremely rare and attractive yellow gold and diamond-set calendar wristwatch with “pyramid” bezel and bracelet
100. ROLEX A rare and attractive yellow gold, diamond and ruby-set calendar wristwatch with bracelet
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1987
Reference No. 18018
Movement No. 1’686’626
Case No. 9’845’437
Model Name Day-Date “Pyramid”
Material 18K yellow gold and diamonds
Calibre Automatic, cal. 3055, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K yellow gold Rolex President bracelet, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions 36mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 18,000-28,000
$18,300-28,500
€18,500-28,700
This charming and attractive Reference 18018 is distinguished by its “pyramid” pattern to the bezel, giving the watch an incredibly singular appearance. The reference is incredibly rare, having appeared sporadically on the auction market in the past few years. Research suggests that the reference was made in very few examples during the late 1980s, with a dedicated reference for the bezel.
The present example is preserved in excellent and impressive condition with crisp and visible hallmarks beneath the lugs. The diamond-set dial is furthermore preserved in excellent condition with round luminous dots that have aged with warm patina.
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1982
Reference No. 18038
Movement No. 0’770’099
Case No. 7’372’853
Model Name Day-Date "Fire"
Material 18K yellow gold, rubies and diamonds
Calibre Automatic, cal. 3055, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K yellow gold Rolex President bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions 36mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Provenance
Glamorous Day-Date Phillips Geneva May 9, 2015, lot 27
Estimate
CHF 15,000-30,000
$15,200-30,500
€15,400-30,800
Introduced to the market in 1956, the Day-Date has seen a multitude of watch design variations. It is one of the most varied, unusual and creative models the firm has ever produced.
Produced between 1977 and 1988, reference 18038 is characterized by its yellow gold case, bracelet and fluted bezel. The model most notably features a sapphire crystal. It is furthermore distinguished by the diamond and rubyset champagne dial, giving it an incredibly glamorous edge. Furthermore, the case is preserved in excellent condition with crisp edges and sharp finishes. It most likely has never seen polishing throughout its lifespan.
Its provenance is particularly noteworthy, having been sold at the Glamorous Day-Date Phillips Geneva auction on May 9, 2015, lot 27.
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1940
Reference No. 3933
Case No. 59’937
Model Name “Zerographe”
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, cal. 10 ½’’’, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Gilt pin buckle
Dimensions 32mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial and movement signed by maker, dial further signed by retailer
Estimate
CHF 25,000-50,000
$25,400-50,800
€25,600-51,300
Accessories
Accompanied by Beyer Extract from the Archives.
The Zerographe ref. 3346 is widely regarded as one of the most elusive and collectible Rolex wristwatches of all times. Considered the first Rolex chronograph cased in an Oyster case, it hardly ever appear at auction and on the rare occasions it does, it is the object of fierce battles in the auction room among the most prominent Rolex collectors.
However, the present newly discovered timepiece goes well above and beyond the importance of a “normal Zerographe” (admittedly, an oxymoron if ever there was one), arriving to rewrite this part of the history of the brand. Bearing reference number 3933, the present watch appears to be a so far unknown “Zerographe” (sharing with it the same 10 and a half lignes calibre) albeit offered in a completely different dress. While ref. 3346 features a highly sporty stainless steel Oyster case, with a prominent revolving bezel, reference 3933 could be its diametric opposite. Cased in a subtle yellow gold case with stepped bezel and angular lugs, the dial features not only extremely attractive gilt numerals, but furthermore is co-signed by Zurich retailer “Beyer”. Underlining the absolute originality of the watch, Beyer has kindly produced an Extract from their Archives confirming the piece was indeed retailed by them.
The one concession to the utilitarian nature of a chronograph is the railway minute divisions which imbue the aesthetics of the piece with a hint of pragmatism.
Combining condition, looks, and paramount historical importance, the present watch is an absolute gem in the panorama of vintage watch collecting. Not only it represents one of the most scarce designs in the history of Rolex, but furthermore it subverts the so-far accepted assumption that Rolex fitted this movement only on professional watches.
The idiosyncrasy of a vintage yellow gold “sports” chronograph is what makes a gold Daytona, especially with the “Paul Newman” dial so rare, coveted and exciting. In fact the reference 6241 is amongst the rarest models. It was in production for only 3 short years from 1966 to 1969, scholars estimate that roughly 2000 pieces were produced in stainless steel, approximately 400 in 14k yellow gold and around 300 in 18k yellow gold like the present example making it the rarest of the rare.
This reference differed from other Daytona models with a new case design that introduced a small protrusion under the crown, which allowed easier winding of the Valjoux caliber 722. It also featured a new bezel composed of a metal support fitted with a black acrylic insert featuring a tachymeter scale printed in white. The “T SWISS T” designation at the lower edge of the dial by 6 o’clock indicates the use of tritium for the hands and luminous hour markers. It is also from this reference on that the word ‘Daytona’ would be officially printed on the dial.
Exquisite, exemplary and extraordinary, it would not be an overstatement to call the present timepiece a fine artwork for the wrist, the 18k yellow gold case is a perfect frame for the gorgeous cream/champagne colored grené dial, magnified by the black acrylic bezel.
Manufacturer
ROLEX
Reference No. 6241
Case No. 1’947’408
Model Name Cosmograph Daytona “Champagne Paul Newman”
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, cal. 722-1, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K yellow gold Rolex Jubilee bracelet, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold deployant clasp dated 2.70
Dimensions 37mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 400,000-800,000
$407,000-813,000
€410,000-821,000
The “Paul Newman” dial configuration is preserved in superb condition, fully retaining all of its luminous hour markers. The case is also very well preserved, retaining original proportions and full lugs. Furthermore, the untouched nature of the watch is confirmed by the fact that in its 50+ year history only 2 service marks are etched inside the caseback.
A simple reasoning points out both the historical significance and the rarity of a gold Newman. The Daytona was intended as a professional timepiece for competitive drivers. Thus, a gold version did not make a lot of sense on the paper due to the lower robustness of the metal, not to mention the added weight and cost. A similar reasoning goes for the Paul Newman dial: while extremely eye-pleasing, it definitely is not the epitome of legibility, especially when compared to the standard Daytona dial design. Thus, to find a watch incorporating both traits not only is a fabled occurrence, but it furthermore represents one of the earliest embryonic conceptualisation of what is arguably the biggest market segment in modern watchmaking: luxury sport watches.
In overall excellent condition, this gem has been hidden and unworn for quite some time as witnessed by the colorful oxidation found on the right side of the case and is an incredibly rare piece of refinement and sophistication with a dash of playfulness.
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1949
Reference No. 4767
Case No. 584’337
Model Name Oyster Chronographe, “Jean-Claude Killy”, “Dato-Compax”
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Manual, cal. 72C, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex pin buckle
Dimensions 37mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 150,000-300,000
$152,000-305,000
€154,000-308,000
One of the most complicated models ever made by Rolex, the present lot is a representative of the famed line of Dato-Compax wristwatches made by Rolex midway through the last century.
Launched in 1947, the reference 4767 Dato-Compax was Rolex’s first triple calendar chronograph wristwatch fitted inside a water-resistant Oyster case, making this the first "Killy" Rolex.
Between 1947 and 1962, a total of four different Oyster Dato-compax variations were produced: references 4767, 5036, 6036 and 6236, all of them known as the “Jean-Claude Killy”.
Made in yellow and pink gold as well as stainless steel, the production run was extremely small, also considered that Rolex was focused on professional or technical timepieces, with very few forays in the realm of complicated pieces (in vintage times, only three are known: the Killy line, the triple calendar/moonphase line (ref. 6062 and 8171), and the split seconds model 4113. The Dato-Compax received the nickname the “Jean Claude Killy”, after the three-time Olympic champion who was seen wearing a reference 6236.
The present reference 4767 in stainless steel features an incredibly attractive dial configuration: a two-tone finish, highlighting the outer date scale through a subtle grené finish in contrast with the satin center, is matched to luminous Arabic and dot numerals for an incredibly attractive final effect exuding vintage charm in spades.
To such attractiveness one has to add the rarity of the model, which is one of the scarcest Killy references. In fact, since the founding of the department, Phillips has had the pleasure of selling only two other such models, both in November 2016, one in gold and one in stainless steel. The steel one, featuring a different dial with recessed square numerals, had a serial number intriguingly close to the present piece: 584’423, less than 100 numbers away.
It is an honour for Phillips to be able once again after 6 years to offer an example of ref. 4767 to the most distinguished Rolex collectors in the world.
ROLEX A highly rare and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with so-called “porcelain” dial displaying “floating” logo, bracelet and guarantee
Manufacturer Rolex
Year 1988
Reference No. 16520
Movement No. 10’996
Case No. R884515
Model Name Cosmograph Daytona
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 4030, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 60,000-120,000
$61,000-122,000
€61,600-123,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex guarantee dated 1989, numbered hang tag, product literature, presentation box and outer packaging.
Reference 16520 was Rolex’s first Daytona to house an automatic movement. At the time of launch in 1988, it quickly became a cult classic and garnered an immediate waiting list at Rolex retailers. Today, the Zenith Daytona has become an even more collectible watch due to its rarity, good looks and importance within the history of Rolex.
While reference 16520’s popularity has increased dramatically in the past few years, few automatic Cosmograph Daytonas are as beloved as the ‘R Series’. Preserved in excellent condition, this reference 16520 features a so-called ‘porcelain’ dial displaying the “Cosmograph” script floating below the text at 12 o’clock. Made of lacquer, “porcelain” dials were only fitted to the earliest 16520s. The black graphics were printed on top of the dial, giving it a three-dimensional effect. Of particular note is the “inverted 6” on the lowest subsidiary register, a detail that is particularly beloved by collectors today. Furthermore, all details are correct such as the early chronometer number, and satin finished bracelet.
Impressively, this watch is accompanied by its original guarantee, hang tag, presentation box and outer packaging.
Ref. 16520 Cosmograph Daytona "Floating Porcelain"Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1939
Reference No. 3330
Case No. 041’574
Model Name Chronographe Antimagnetique
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Manual, cal. Valjoux 22, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Alligator
Clasp/Buckle Stainless Steel Rolex pin buckle
Dimensions 37mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate
CHF 150,000-300,000 ∑
$152,000-305,000
€154,000-308,000
Literature
The present watch is illustrated in 100 Superlative Rolex Watches by John Goldberger, pp. 66-67.
In today’s collector market, vintage chronographs are often amongst the most desired and sought after timepieces. It is clear that the more we discover and look for early watches from the past decades, the more we have the certainty that case diameters were usually smaller - having said that, there is always a very rare exception to that rule. That rare exception is presented to you today in the form of an extremely beautiful and highly desirable oversized Rolex reference 3330 that comes in a hefty and important 37mm case diameter.
Other than the extremely comfortable case size, the reference 3330 still has to offer many other “modern” details that have certainly been picked up throughout out the years by collectors.
The “Antimagnetique” chronograph showcases perfectly proportioned subdials in a tri-Compax layout, large flat bezel and square buttons. The beautiful multiscale dial on this Rolex reference 3330 features a blue Telemetric scale and black Tachymeter scale. Being from the 1930’s, this timepiece is a “pre-Oyster” chronograph and is fitted with a Valjoux caliber 22.
The present example, in excellent overall condition, certainly deserves to be considered a grail in the realm of highly desirable vintage Rolex chronographs. This timepiece definitely stands out thanks to its crisp reference and case numbers stamped on the case back. The lugs and bezel retain sharp, strong edges, and the case is complete with its original crown and rectangular pushers in place. The condition, rarity, and beauty of the present watch is sure to impress even the most discerning collectors of the world’s finest watches.
Extremely contemporary for today’s standards and aesthetics, the “PN” 6263 was not initially an immediate success - this forced Rolex to reduce and cease production quite rapidly, inevitably making those few Paul Newman’s reference 6263 that have resisted the test of time extremely rare and collectable in today’s day and age.
The present Rolex reference 6263, fitted with an incredibly well preserved Mark 2 “Panda” dial, is a wonderful representation of the model. Preserved in excellent overall condition, the dial is exceptional in all aspects - remaining virtually flawless, with no marks, blemishes, or scratches to be found anywhere on its surface. The whitish grené surface of the dial is clean and very bright, slightly turning to a very faint yellow hue - the original luminous hour markers are all complete and perfectly intact and have aged to a beautiful and consistent light cream color. The art-deco style of the font used, and the hash marks with small squares found on the subsidiary dial, are also characteristic of “Paul Newman” style dials. It is quite interesting to also notice the rare presence of the “millerighe” pushers.
The combination of rarity, quality and amazing looks make this Rolex 6263 “Paul Newman” a trophy watch worthy of a prominent and rightfully deserved place in the world’s finest collections.
Manufacturer Rolex
Year 1972
Reference No. 6263, inside caseback stamped 6262
Case No. 2’849’358
Model Name Oyster Cosmograph “Paul Newman Panda”
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “7835”, endlinks stamped “71N”, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex Oyster deployant clasp stamped “2.70”
Dimensions 37mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 250,000-500,000
$254,000-508,000
€256,000-513,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex Guarantee stamped Karl Hauser - Uhren, Munchen, dated 19th July 1972, original receipt from 1972 and service papers.
Introduced in 1971 alongside the reference 6265, the present Rolex reference 6263 with Mark 2 “Paul Newman” dial, other than possibly being the “perfect tool watch” is also the most desirable, beautiful, and sought-after standard Paul Newman in today’s market. The model is fitted with screw down pushers, inherited from the previous reference 6240, rendering the case fully waterproof and earning itself the name “Oyster” - Notably, whilst the 6263 was fitted with an acrylic bezel, reference 6265 was fitted with a metal bezel with tachymeter scale.
The Paul Newman references 6263 generally features “exotic” white or black dials made by Singer. Those fitted with a white dial and black subsidiary registers are known today to collectors as “Panda dial” given the color scheme that mimics its namesake. Inside the timepiece, beats the caliber 727, an evolution from the caliber 722-1 and 72 A. The movement is present on Rolexes from 1969 till 1987.
Ref. 6263 Oyster Cosmograph "Paul Newman Panda MK 2"ROLEX An extremely rare, highly important and early stainless-steel diver’s wristwatch with square crown guards, center seconds and bracelet, retailed by Serpico y Laino
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1959
Reference No. 5512
Movement No. 73’084
Case No. 478’011, inside caseback stamped 5512, “III.59”, outside caseback further stamped S&L ACERO.
Model Name Submariner
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal.1530, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, stamped “7206”, endlinks stamped “80”, max length 230mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex Oyster deployant clasp stamped “2.59”
Dimensions 40mm diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 100,000-200,000
$102,000-203,000
€103,000-205,000
Crown guards were absent from Rolex sports watches for the better part of a decade. Rolex debuted a new generation of Submariner watches in 1959, the reference 5512. Crown guards were used for the first time on a Rolex watch. A glossy black dial and sturdy crown guards with square ends in profile are included. These crown guards have seen several alterations and advances throughout the years, ultimately settling on a final design in the form of a rounded shape. Prior to that, crown
guards were pointed, which were only produced for a brief period and are now highly sought after by collectors. “Cornino” is the nickname given by said collectors for submariners with pointy crown guards. The most difficult to find are versions with square crown guards from the initial batch, which date from 1959. Interestingly, these highly rare timepieces all have serial numbers in the low 478000 range series, such as the present watch, and these samples are to be found all within a 20-number serial.
The current timepiece is a beautiful and well preserved example of this extremely hard to find limited series, with the accurate case back date code III.59. It has an eye-catching black gloss dial with “gilt printing.” Furthermore, the depth rating is shown in silver. The retailer signature of Serpico y Laino, a major Rolex retailer in Caracas, Venezuela, is very intriguing. The retailers signature (S&L ACERO) can also be discovered outside the case back, much to the satisfaction of the discerning collector, proving that the dial and case were actually born together.
The current Rolex Submariner ref. 5512, which dates from around 1959 and features a “glossy” black “2-Liner-S&L” dial with chapter ring and square crown guards, is exceptionally uncommon. The value of the current timepiece is increased by the presence of a well-preserved casing and a dial that corresponds to the historical period. The bezel insert has a wonderful aged look to it, with a greyish tinge that has formed through time with the red triangle and pearl intact. This current lot is a find that will pique the curiosity of collectors of notable rare and sporty watches due to its mix of rarity, historical significance, and condition.
Case
Model
Material
Calibre
Bracelet/Strap
Clasp/Buckle
Dimensions
Signed
Estimate
CHF 25,000-50,000
$25,400-50,800
€25,600-51,300
yellow
yellow
yellow
1556,
The present watch is a beautiful example featuring a linenpatterned dial and a green “Khanjar” emblem at 6 o’clock. During the 1970s, His Majesty Qaboos bin Said Al Said, the Sultan of Oman, commissioned many watch manufacturers to create custom order pieces, many of which displayed the “Qaboos” or a “Khanjar” symbol. Rolex is best known for creating such special-order pieces for royal families or governments. The combination of the Khanjar symbol contrasting against the linen dial is particularly stunning.
Of particular interest is the Arabic calendar wheel, providing another element of collectibility.
The crisp and sharp condition of this watch is especially noteworthy. Featuring bold and full proportions, the top of the lugs are very sharp. The bottom of the lugs display deep hallmarks and the bracelet shows shows minimal wear.
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1979
Reference No. 6265 (inside caseback stamped 6263)
Case No. 6’047’554
Model Name Cosmograph Daytona “White Khanjar”
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Manual, cal.727, 17jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Oyster bracelet reference 78350 19, endlinks stamped 571, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions 37mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 150,000-300,000
$152,000-305,000
€154,000-308,000
The present Rolex Daytona Cosmograph impresses by its incredible state of preservation with a case that is most probably unpolished and an immaculate dial with crisp round lume plots.
However, where the watch reaches the highest peaks in terms of collectability is the presence of the highly coveted and extremely rare white Khanjar emblem on the subdial at 6 o’clock.
Watches fitted with “Khanjar” dials were made on special request from His Majesty Qaboos bin Said Al Said, the Sultan of Oman, and presented as gifts to his closest dignitaries and officials. Research and scholarship suggests that the Sultan commissioned most of his watches in the 1970s. It was an honor, and sign of respect, to be presented with a Rolex watch depicting the Omani state symbol. Many of these watches are cherished by their original owners, and passed down from one generation to the next.
His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said (1940-2019) was known also for his own formidable watch collection and his passion for horology. His Majesty ascended to the throne at age 30 following studies under the President of India and military training at the Royal Military Academy at Sandhurst, England, his reign was one of great success. With revenues received from oil sales, he drove transformational advances in healthcare, education, and infrastructure.
Only a very few number of Rolex Cosmographs bearing the “Khanjar” have appeared on the market highlighting the utter rarity of the model. In fact, the present example is only the 2nd Rolex Daytona Cosmograph “Khanjar” in stainless steel sold by Phillips. The previous example was a reference 6263 sold at the “Daytona Ultimatum” theme auction of May 2018 for above CHF 1.2 million.
The superb condition and rare dial configuration make the present watch an absolute must have for the savvy collector.
Ref. 6265 Cosmograph Daytona "White Khanjar"Watches fitted with custom Middle East dials were often presented as gifts to ambassadors, dignitaries, or staff, as a token of gratitude or respect. It was an honor to be presented a Rolex watch with the state symbol. In fact, many of these watches are cherished by their original owners, and passed down from one generation to the next. As a result, Rolex watches with custom dials hardly appear on the market.
The present example, with a 5.06 million serial number, is part of an extremely small group of watches delivered specially by Rolex upon order by His Majesty, the Sultan of Oman, and features the coveted “Golden Khanjar”, likely the rarest of all Omani-issued wristwatches. These watches, numbered between a 5.0 and 5.3 million serial range, were gifted to loyal servants and foreign dignitaries, and as we see from this historically interesting SeaDweller, in recognition of service to the Sultanate of Oman who sought to express gratitude to members of special forces who assisted him in the early 1970s.
Originally consigned at auction by the son of the original owner, this watch and its documented provenance provide a rich history of the original owner as well as for this extremely sought-after watch.
The symbol on the dial is part of the national emblem of Oman and there are three types found on timepieces: the rarest “Golden Khanjar”, like the present watch, depicts an object of utmost importance, a red “Qaboos” signature, and the more commonly seen “red Khanjar”. Far rarer than other versions, the Gold Khanjar Sea Dweller is believed to have been produced in no more than one dozen examples. This particular example is accompanied by an unprecedented litany of documentation, photographs and other printed material that reflects an impressive provenance of Omani military service.
ROLEX A very rare, well preserved and historically important stainless steel wristwatch with date and bracelet, with original guarantee, box made for the Sultan of Oman, originally consigned by the son of the original owner, including a hand-written letter on the history of the watch and related provenance material
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1977
Reference No. 1665 inside case back stamped with serial number 5’067’180
Movement No. 337’541
Case No. 5’067’180
Model Name Sea-Dweller "Gold Khanjar"
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, stamped 93150, endlinks stamped 585, max length 200m
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 250,000-500,000
$254,000-508,000
€256,000-513,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex guarantee with Rolex green leather envelope, hand-written letter from original owner with notarized “Notice of Gift” letter, owners USN Naval Aviator certificate, squadron eight helicopter training certificate, Sultanate of Oman Commercial Pilots Licence (Aeroplanes), Sultanate of Oman Airline Transport Pilot’s Licence (Helicopters), Scuba Diver Log Book, 1985 The Order of The Special Royal Emblem with metals, service papers dated 2002 and 2019 and assorted photographs.
The original owner of the present watch was employed by the Royal Oman Police (ROP) Airwing from 1975-1980. Due to the lack of a marine unit in either the police or Oman Navy, he organized a small group of volunteers who would provide meaningful support. During his time in Oman, he was twice called upon to assist in search and rescue operations when a royal fight helicopter (AU40- AD) crashed.
In the first instance, he was called upon to dive to, locate, and recover the aircraft. In the second instance, when a police academy ROP helicopter went down with cadets aboard on March 20th of 1977, the owner participated in search and rescue for lost bodies, and later recovery of the wreck. The owner’s Scuba Dive Log Book with both of these events recorded is included in the material accompanying the watch.
Extraordinarily, the watch comes with its original guarantee and service medals awarded to the original owner. In appreciation for his service, the owner was granted “The Order of The Special Royal Emblem” by the Sultan of Oman in recognition of his efforts and dedication.
This extraordinary and rare “Golden Khanjar” Sea- Dweller, along with its rich historical documentation, will captivate both Rolex collectors and connoisseurs seeking a trophy in one of the most unique and well-documented Omani watches ever to be offered.
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 1950
Reference No. 130
Movement No. 867’819
Case No. 661’242
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, cal. 13’’’, 23 jewels, stamped “HOX”
Bracelet/Strap 14K yellow gold CDL bracelet, max length 190mm Clasp/Buckle 14K yellow gold concealed clasp
Dimensions 33mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial and movement signed; bracelet signed by bracelet maker
Estimate
CHF 50,000-100,000
$50,800-102,000
€51,300-103,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe box and outer packaging. Furthermore delivered with Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch with “Raised Breguet hour markers in gold” and its subsequent sale on February 28, 1951.
The present example of hallowed chronograph reference 130 is distinguished by its dial, the luxurious bracelet, and its overall condition.
A quick glimpse to the dial will immediately identify the Tiffany & Co. stamp, located at 12 above the Patek Philippe. The movement bears the stamp HOX, indicating that the watch was delivered to USA, as expected from a Tiffany retailed example.
The dial is exceptionally well-preserved, with the tachymeter scale engraved/enamelled as the rest of the graphics. Such a characteristic highly increases the amount of work required, so much so that sometimes the engraving/enamelling was done only to the “standard” graphics while the tachymeter scale was printed. Furthermore, the scale is based in miles, appropriately so given the American destination market. The case as well is in glorious condition, showcasing full lugs sharp edges, and the original crown. Not only can one easily distinguish the hallmark and retailer’s stock number under the lugs, but even the hallmark to the band - a location obviously very sensitive to polishing - is deep crisp and well defined.
The 14K gold American and period correct CDL bracelet adds a final touch of luxury and flair, making this example as swanky and impressive as it is collectible. Fresh to the auction market, the present configuration featuring both Breguet numerals and the Tiffany co-signature is extremely rare. So far, only 10 other examples share these traits, this new discovery being the 11th to be found.
PATEK PHILIPPE
An attractive and very rare platinum chronograph wristwatch with certificate of origin and presentation box, retailed by Tiffany & Co. and the only publicly known example
Ref. 5070P "The only publicly known example for Tiffany & Co."
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 2008
Reference No. 5070P
Movement No. 3’715’266
Case No. 4’454’292
Material Platinum
Calibre Manual, cal. CH 27-70, 24 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Platinum Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions 42mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 200,000-400,000
$203,000-407,000
€205,000-410,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated October 10, 2008 and stamped Tiffany & Co, product literature, wallet, presentation box and outer packaging.
Reference 5070 was Patek Philippe’s first modern-era chronograph-only wristwatch released by the brand since the 1960s saw the end of production for the reference 1463.
Introduced in 1998 at the Basel Fair, it was something of a shock to collectors that Patek would choose to reintroduce their chronograph-only line in such bold fashion – particularly the 42mm case dimension and the dramatically thick, stepped bezel.
In 2008, in celebration of the 10th anniversary of this reference Patek Philippe introduced a platinum-cased version with an incredible blue dial. In production for only 2 short years, the platinum reference 5070 was manufactured in the fewest number of pieces of any reference 5070.
The dial color is of particular interest, as it is difficult to accurately pinpoint the exact shade of blue. Patek itself refers to the color as “bleu nuage” or “cloud blue”, but truly there are myriad names for the colors that come out at different angles or light sources.
However, the desirability and rarity of the present example reach Himalayan heights thanks to the subtle signature near the 6 o’clock position: Tiffany & Co. making the present example the only known platinum reference 5070 with Tiffany & Co. signature, the result being the arrival on the market of the present example an incredible opportunity not to be missed.
A remarkably rare model, ref. 530 can arguably considered the most timeless among the vintage Patek Philippe chronograph models. Sporting the clean Bauhaus-inspired Calatrava case design of reference 130, it features an overzise-for-the-time 36.5mm case thanks to which it enormously resonates with today’s taste.
Its important size, while making it an incredibly attractive timepiece according to current standards is also the reason for its slim output, as it was deemed too prominent on the wrist in the 1940s and 1950s. Consequently, it is estimated that only a total of about 140 pieces were made, in yellow gold pink gold and steel.
If 140 examples sounds like a small number, pink gold examples are much scarcer than that. it is estimated that no more than thirty 530 cases were made in pink gold, and so fare the market has seen about 15 examples.
Combining a contemporary size, quintessentially vintage design - both of case and dial -, and such a restricted output, it is obvious that any pink gold example of this model would be fiercely contended by Patek Philippe collectors all over the world.
The present watch, however, stands in a category of its own. In fact, practically all pink gold example known feature a silvered dial. Only two examples divert from this norm: an example with champagne dial, and the present piece with salmon dial.
PATEK PHILIPPE
An extremely uncommon, oversized, attractive and superbly well preserved pink gold chronograph wristwatch with pink dial, the only example known in this configuration
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year Circa 1951
Reference No. 530
Movement No. 868’126
Case No. 512’623
Model Name “Monochrome Pink”
Material 18K pink gold
Calibre Manual, cal. 13’’’, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Patek Philippe leather strap
Clasp/Buckle 18K pink gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions 36.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and case signed
Estimate CHF 300,000-600,000
$305,000-610,000
€308,000-616,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Extract from the Archives.
The combination of pink dial and pink case is beyond remarkable in terms of aesthetics, granting the piece an enormously warm and exotic vibe, and is obviously the reason of the moniker “Monochrome Pink”, with which this piece is known in the collecting circle since its first and only appearance at auction, in 2004, when it sold for 674’500 CHF. It is interesting to point out that this configuration was at the time
appreciated usually in exotic markets such as South America or Eastern Europe. Indeed this watch confirms that trend: one can find on the original buckle unusual import marks, confirming that also this example of PoP timepiece was sold outside of the boundaries of the "standard" North American/West European markets.
Beyond its aesthetic attractiveness, the “Pink-on-Pink” (or “PoP”) configuration is considered a classic of Patek Philippe’s vintage production, as rarely employed as it is appreciated.
Most notably, the “PoP” version of reference 1518 has been recognised as an ultimate grail by the community, with about a dozen pieces known out of a 281 pieces overall production. This helps to put in perspective the importance of the only known PoP iteration of ref. 530, with a 140 pieces overall production.
Beyond its unicity, importance and aesthetics, the present watch can proudly say to be able to cross out also the “Condition” box on a connoisseur’s checklist. The case is beyond impressive, sporting full lugs, crisp hallmarks and strong sating finish to the band, truly a joy to behold. The dial as well can be described as breathtaking, with a very intense salmon tonality to the dial and strong graphics.
Combining rarity, looks, condition and importance, the present watch is beyond any doubt one of the most remarkable pure chronographs ever produced by the company - a true Grail for the ages, if ever there was one.
Patek Philippe’s reference 1463 was launched in 1940, and remained in production for approximately 25 years. The timepiece, along with its companion reference 1563 splitseconds chronograph, was the brand’s first and only vintageera waterproof chronograph produced, featuring a water resistant screw-back case and round pump pushers. Research indicates approximately 750 examples were produced with the majority made in yellow gold, a very limited number in stainless steel, and an exceptionally small number in pink gold.
Nicknamed “Tasti Tondi” by Italian collectors for the round chronograph pushers, the reference 1463 was a sportier alternative to the less robust reference 130, and the desire for the model has never waned. The model was Patek Philippe’s first sports chronograph designed for a modern society with an increasing interest in outdoor activities, and even for industrial use in scientific and medical environments due to a second inner case which shielded the movement against magnetism. Today, this timepiece is one of the most sought after vintage Patek Philippe chronographs available, and is cherished for its classic modern design.
A number of different dial designs are known for the reference. In increasing rarity, one can move from the simpler baton indexes with Arabic “12” and “6”, throughout its iterationsbaton of varying sizes, dot, and lapidated indexes have been seen; the “12” and “6” numerals can be Arabic, Roman, or at times just another markers like the rest of the dial -, passing by the famous Breguet dials, and eventually arriving where this piece stands: the sector, two-tone dial.
Echoing sensitivities of the previous two decades (1920’s and 1930s), Patek Philippe sector dials are a result of balance between two opposite forces. On the one side, Belle Époque influences are felt through the highly complicated architecture of the design (light years away from the “militaristic” dial designs of the 1940s). On the other hand the Bauhaus motto “form after functions” - ensures the every element of the design is serving the higher purpose of increased legibility: the sectors and alternating tones of the finishing work to highlight scales and numerals. The final result is baffling in its boundless beauty and charisma.
PATEK PHILIPPE
An astoundingly attractive, extremely uncommon and highly important stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with two-tone sector dial, retailed by Walser Wald the only known in this configuration
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 1945
Reference No. 1463
Movement No. 863’724
Case No. 640’561
Model Name “Tasti Tondi”
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Manual, cal. 13’’’, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Patek Philippe alligator strap
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions 35mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Literature
The present watch is prominently illustrated in Patek Philippe Orologi Complicati da Polso, A Connoisseur's Vision, pages 60-64.
Estimate
CHF 300,000-600,000 ∑
$305,000-610,000
€308,000-616,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1945 and its subsequent sale on September 13, 1946. Furthermore delivered with Patek Philippe Service center condition report card and communication.
As if a two-tone sector dial on a steel ref. 1463 - of which four are known so far - was not enough, the present watch adds to the ensemble a Walser Wald signature and a highly unusual telemetre scale rather than the most commonly seen tachymeter one. In fact, this is the only known reference 1463 with the Walser Wald signature on the dial.
It is our understanding that the present watch was indeed sold to Walser Wald in Argentina. Furthermore, the present watch has a prominent place of four pages in Patek Philippe Orologi Complicati da Polso, which was at the time one of the most celebrated watch collections in the world.
The condition of the watch fully matches its beauty and rarity, with a wonderfully preserved case and an absolutely unrestored engraved/enameled dial (with printed telemetre scale, as expected) featuring, as expected from an unrestored dial 80 years old, some minor surface marks. The watch was in fact submitted last year to Patek Philippe restoration service who returned the accompanying Condition Report card which explicitly states that the dial would be damaged by a restoration, as if imploring the owner to not compromise the integrity and historical importance of such an unrestored dial. Luckily, the owner accepted the implicit suggestion of the company and did not go through with the service, thus allowing this museum-quality piece to remain unmarred, now ready to become the crown jewel of another collection.
No.
Case No. 60’74X’055
Model Name Cosmograph Daytona
Material 18K white gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 4130, 44 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K white gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 215 mm
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 25,000-50,000
$25,400-50,800
€25,600-51,300
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex guarantee dated February 14, 2020, catalog, tag, fitted presentation box and outer packaging.
Still in production to this day, the present Rolex Daytona reference 116509, cased in white gold, is an elegant and refined variant of the well-known sporty Rolex Daytona reference
116500. Extremely requested and virtually un-attainable the present timepiece, like its stainless steel brother, has an evergrowing cult status and is today one of the hardest models to acquire from the retailers with extremely long waiting lists.
Cased at 40mm diameter, with a white gold bezel and engraved tachymeter scale the timepiece carries presence and sits extremely comfortably on the wrist. Showcasing a stunning grey dial with three sub registers, the dial displays black 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, small seconds at 6 o’clock, and a 12-hour counter at 9 o’clock. Extremely legible, the grey dial and white gold case make the three black subdials strikingly visible, further giving the timepiece a sporty yet elegant attire to it.
Inside, the timepiece is made alive thanks to the in-house calibre 4130, a self-winding mechanical chronograph specifically designed by Rolex for their Daytona models and boasting a 72hour power reserve.
The present example of Rolex Daytona reference 116509, with its attractive grey dial is offered in barely worn condition and is accompanied by guarantee, fitted presentation box and outer packaging.
116. PATEK PHILIPPE A rare and attractive white gold chronograph wristwatch with salmon dial, certificate of origin and presentation box
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 2022
Reference No. 5172G-010
Movement No. 7’467’889
Case No. 6’539’884
Material 18K white gold
Calibre Manual, cal. CH 29 535, 33 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions 41mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 40,000-60,000
$40,700-61,000
€41,000-61,600
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin, copy of catalog, product literature, presentation box and outer packaging.
Patek Philippe launched the reference 5172 in 2019, following a long line of serially produced chronograph wristwatches and replacing its predecessor, the reference 5170. In 2022, Patek Philippe reinvented the existing model in their catalog by releasing the model in white gold with a salmon dial (or, according to Patek Philippe “rose opaline”) so beloved by collectors. Displaying a case with multi-stepped lugs and a angled bezel, it boasts a diameter of 41 millimeters, giving it much presence on the wrist.
The present lots marks the first time this dial and reference combination appears on the market, giving collectors an opportunity to acquire a timepiece which is normally only offered through a waitlist. It is furthermore offered in barely worn condition and a full set, with its certificate of origin, Patek Philippe catalog, presentation box and outer packaging.
115.118. ROLEX
Manufacturer
Case No. Y990232
Model Name Submariner “Flat Four Kermit”
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 3135, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “93250”, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex Oyster deployant clasp stamped “AD4”
Dimensions 40mm
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet
Estimate
CHF 15,000-30,000
Accompanied by Rolex guarantee
Artland Watch
Kong dated 11 October 2003, numbered hang tag, wallet, fitted
box and outer packaging.
To celebrate the Submariner’s 50th anniversary in 2003, Rolex for the first time released a new Submariner model with a bold and charismatic green bezel, which became instantly popular among collectors worldwide. While the reference is discontinued today, it still enjoys enormous popularity among collectors’ circles.
Preserved in astounding condition, the watch spent very little time on the wrist, but its most notable feature is the “flat four” bezel, which can only be found on earliest generation reference 16610LVs and is recognised by the top of the number “40” on the bezel which is markedly wider (“flatter”) than later iterations. Due to its rarity, this variant is particularly popular among collectors today.
The present example is preserved in exceptional condition and still retains its original factory sticker, numbered hang tag, guarantee stating the watch was sold at Artland Watch in Hong Kong, presentation box and outer packaging.
119. ROLEX An attractive and “new old stock” stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with black dial, original seals, guarantee, presentation box and outer packaging
Manufacturer Rolex
Year 2015
Reference No. 116520
Case No. MN626047
Model Name Cosmograph Daytona
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 4130, 44 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 15,000-25,000
$15,200-25,400
€15,400-25,600
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex guarantee dated February 17, 2015 stamped The Hour Glass, numbered hang tag, presentation box and outer packaging.
Reference 116520 replaced its predecessor reference 16520 in 2000. It most notably features caliber 4130, which is Rolex’s first in-house chronograph movement. Prior to that, the watch was fitted with the Zenith-based El Primero movement. Today, reference 116520 is an iconic model, representing one of Rolex’s many technical strides throughout horological history.
The present watch displays a black dial and is preserved in “new old stock” condition and accompanied by all its original seals and bezel protector. It is furthermore accompanied by its Rolex guarantee dated February 17, 2015 stamped The Hour Glass, numbered hang tag, presentation box and outer packaging.
PATEK PHILIPPE A fine and attractive stainless steel travel time wristwatch with center seconds, date, dual day and night indication, certificate of origin and presentation box
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 2018
Reference No. 5164A-001
Movement No. 7’168’285
Case No. 6’254’470
Model Name Aquanaut Travel Time
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 324 S C FUS, 29 jewels, stamped with the Patek Philippe Seal
Bracelet/Strap Rubber Patek Philippe strap, max length 170mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Patek Philippe double deployant clasp stamped “S/B”
Dimensions 41mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 40,000-80,000
$40,700-81,300
€41,000-82,100
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificat d’Origine stamped by the Geneva Salons and dated September 19, 2018, setting pin, product literature, leather document holder, wooden presentation box and outer packaging. Furthermore delivered with additional Patek Philippe black rubber strap (same size as the one on the watch).
The Patek Philippe Aquanaut was launched in 1997 and was the first Patek Philippe to be worn with a resistant rubber strap. Introduced in 2011, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut reference 5164 Travel Time is the very first complicated Aquanaut model. Featuring a practical dual time function indicated by an additional hand, the dial also depicts both home and local day and night indication through two small apertures. Fitted with two pushers on the left side of the case band without breaking the symmetry of the case, the pushers allow easy adjustment to the local time. Retaining its iconic case design with a comfortable size measuring 41mm, the comfort is further enhanced via a rubber strap. The reference was introduced in stainless steel first with a pink gold iteration launched after.
The present example Patek Philippe reference 5164 stainless steel is offered in an excellent overall condition and is further accompanied by its original Certificate of Origin and its presentation box.
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 1999
Reference No. 5050R
Movement No. 1’957’597
Case No. 2’989’793
Material 18K pink gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 315S/136, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Alligator
Clasp/Buckle 18K pink gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions 35mm diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 35,000-70,000 ∑
$35,600-71,200
€35,900-71,800
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe fitted presentation box, outer packaging, additional solid caseback and setting pin. Furthermore accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch with an Opaline dial and applied rose gold bassine-style hour markers, in 1999 and its subsequent sale on December 10, 1999.
Patek Philippe reference 5050, along with its officer-cased siblings ref. 5059 and then 5159, was introduced at Basel Fair in 1993 and is the sole model featuring the unusual complication of a perpetual calendar with retrograde fly-back date and center seconds mechanism. For the first time in Patek Philippe history, a perpetual calendar is fitted with both an automatic movement and center seconds, integrating the two distinguishing qualities of antique perpetual calendar references 3448/3450 (automatic) and 2497/2438-1 (center seconds). It also has a retrograde date, allowing for a dial design that had only been seen on Patek Philippe watches of the past - and never on a regular production model. Only a few pieces with a similar arrangement are known, such as the modified reference 96 with perpetual calendar.
Synonymous with beauty and class, the timepiece was produced in four metals: yellow gold, pink gold, white gold, and platinum. The initial examples, which had railway divisions and Roman numerals, were quickly phased out, and were replaced by the baton indexes variation. Discontinued in 2003, according to research, roughly 150 pink gold examples were made.
From the original owner, the current wristwatch is in excellent condition and comes with an extra solid caseback and setting pin.
and
Manufacturer Audemars Piguet
Year 2015
Reference No. 15202ST
Movement No. 905’248
Case No. I91873 and 5914
Model Name Royal Oak
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 2121, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions 39mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 40,000-80,000
$40,700-81,300
€41,000-82,100
Accessories
Accompanied by Audemars Piguet warranty dated 2015, hang tag, product literature, presentation box and outer packaging.
Audemars Piguet’s ref. 15202 is a direct descendant of the original Royal Oak ref 5402 from 1972 designed by Gerald Genta.
Aesthetically almost identical to the original model in terms of overall looks and movement, the ref. 15202 is considered by collectors as the modern Royal Oak to own, even more so since the announcement of the discontinuation of this model in early 2021.
Originally launched in 1972, the watch had a 39mm steel case housing the slim automatic caliber 2121 (which at the time was the world’s thinnest automatic caliber of only 2.45mm thick). The present example is a modern representative of this landmark line of wristwatches. Reference 15202 was launched in 2000, and then again re-issued in 2012 in celebration of the model’s 40th anniversary and is powered by the same caliber 2121 which this time, contrary to the original model, can be admired through the sapphire caseback.
Two dial variants exist in this reference, with the AP at 12 o’clock for earlier models and the AP at the lower part of the dial, like the original ref 5402.
The present Royal Oak is in extremely well-preserved condition and complete with all its accessories.
Manufacturer
Reference No. RM005-AE TI Case No. 647
Model Name RM005
Material Titanium
Calibre Automatic, cal. 005-01, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Rubber
Clasp/Buckle Titanium Richard Mille deployant clasp
Dimensions 45mm length, 38mm width
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 30,000-60,000
$30,500-61,000
€30,800-61,600
Accessories
Accompanied by Richard Mille Warranty, fitted box, extra leather strap, Richard Mille titanium pin buckle and outer packaging.
Richard Mille announced his first watch, the RM001 Tourbillon, in 2000 and has ever since remained true to three key concepts driving the passion, which helped redefine modern horology: the best technical innovations, the best artistry and architecture with the best heritage and fine watchmaking craftsmanship. Mille sought to create wristwatches that were 21st century
masterpieces, employing cutting edge materials and techniques, but remaining steeped in traditional Swiss watchmaking.
In 2004 Richard Mille introduced the RM005 which was not only its first automatic timepiece but also its first non-complicated model.
Non complicated did not mean simple, as the watch featured a titanium baseplate. The brand had to research and invest in the right type of tools to produce the movement. The challenge was not simply designing these baseplates, but also the methods required in their production. The watchmakers had to be extremely careful not to mark the PVD treatment while assembling the movement.
This model also inaugurated the exclusive variable-geometry rotor, an invention that allows the movement’s winding mechanism to be optimised and personalised to the owner’s lifestyle by adjusting the six-position rib placement setting.
This patented mechanism modifies the rotor’s inertia, either speeding up the winding process in the case of minimal arm and hand movements or slowing it down when high activity sports are pursued.
From circa 2005, the present RM005 is not only one of the earlier examples made but represents a milestone in Richard Mille’s history.
AUDEMARS PIGUET
An extremely rare tantalum and yellow gold limited edition openworked perpetual calendar wristwatch with box and certificate of origin, number 7 of a limited edition of 15 pieces
Manufacturer Audemars Piguet
Year 1997
Reference No. 25820TA
Movement No. 396’957
Case No. D80583.007
Model Name Royal Oak
Material Tantalum and 18K yellow gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 2120/2802, 38 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Tantalum and 18K yellow gold Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle Tantalum and 18K yellow gold Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions 39mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 100,000-200,000
$102,000-203,000
€103,000-205,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Certificate of Origin dated October 1997, service invoice, product literature, hang tag and rotating winding box.
A new Royal Oak perpetual calendar model featuring this time a leap year indicator, reference 25820 was launched in 1996 and in production until 2013. A total of 1235 examples were made with only 15 pieces in the present yellow gold/tantalum livery.
Whereas for the past few years we have seen the dramatic rise in the use of different traditional and exotic materials in
watchmaking, kudos should be given to Audemars Piguet for their pioneering mix of yellow gold and tantalum present timepiece made 25 years ago in 1997.
The Royal Oak has always been a blank canvas on which Audemars Piguet has been experimenting for the past 50 years.
The present example merges Audemars Piguet's technical know how - the perpetual calendar - with artistic flair- the openworked movement. This allows for a breathtaking view of the beautiful architecture of the perpetual calendar module which is often hidden beneath a solid dial.
However, with the present piece Audemars Piguet pushed the boundaries of creativity one step beyond by creating a case made of traditional yellow gold and avant-garde tantalum creating an incredibly graphic result. Tantalum is a rare, hard and lustrous metal that is highly corrosion-resistant. Its grey-bluish hues perfectly complement the steel openwork elements and contrast vibrantly against the yellow gold elements.
The outer rings of the subsidiary dials and outer track are also champagne in color matching the yellow gold elements.
The present timepiece was born with a solid dial but it seems that the original owner requested, and obtained, a swap for an openwork dial. A swap that was far from uncommon at the time.
The present reference 25820TA is not only in incredibly attractive condition but comes with its full set of accessories and is lucky number 7 of a very exclusive limited edition of only 15 pieces.
Manufacturer Tornek-Rayville
Year Circa 1965
Reference No. TR-900
Case No. No case number
Model Name Tornek-Rayville US
Material Sandblasted steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. AS 1361, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Nylon NATO
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel
Dimensions 41mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate
CHF 60,000-120,000
$61,000-122,000
€61,600-123,000
Accessories
Accompanied by an authentication report conducted by Blancpain Heritage department, Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 275th anniversary exhibition certificate, paper hang tag of the exhibition and a special winding box developed for the exhibition.
The story behind the Tornek Rayville TR-900 is very closely linked to the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. Used by the French army since the late 50s, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was soon noticed by armies around the world. When the US Army was
looking for a dive watch for its troops, Blancpain knew they had the right tool, but the “Buy American Act” would not allow the brand to offer its Swiss made watch. A fortunate collaboration with a New York based diamond dealer by the name of Alan Tornek allowed the Fifty Fathoms to go under sufficient manufacturing processes in the US to be considered an American product.
A total of approximately 1,000 examples were made in the early 1960s. Despite passing the technical tests, the model was considered too expensive and in 1964, the US government did not renew its order and production was abandoned. Most of the TR900s were destroyed by the United States government and a few that were not issued, were sold, like the present example, to civilians. The portion dedicated to the stamp of the issue numbers on the caseback is left blank as one can expect.
The extremely good condition of the present watch tends to prove that it has never seen any battlefield nor was it used on any dangerous mission. But instead, it was recognized years later as being a significant piece to represent the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms history and was selected by the brand and an independent expert to be exhibited during the events that commemorated the 275th anniversary of the brand.
Considered by many as one of the rarest and most sought after dive watches, the present Tornek Rayville TR900 would be the pinnacle of any professional wristwatch collection.
ROLEX A fine, sporty and very rare stainless steel automatic divers wristwatch with center seconds, date, gas escape valve, bracelet, COMEX certificate and box, made for COMEX
Manufacturer Rolex
Year 1982
Reference No. 16660 inside caseback with repeated serial number 7’336’480
Movement No. 0’717’852
Case No. 7’336’480 inside caseback stamped with repeated case number and issue number 3063 to the outer caseback
Model Name Sea-Dweller “COMEX”
Material Stainless Steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 3035, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster extendable bracelet stamped “93160” and “592” to the endlinks, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped “S”, “CL2”, and “93160”
Dimensions 40mm Diameter Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed. Dial additionally stamped COMEX. Outer caseback engraved ROLEX COMEX 3063.
Estimate CHF 40,000-80,000
$40,700-81,300
€41,000-82,100
Accessories
Accompanied by a copy of a COMEX Certificate of Receipt dated 23rd June 1989 confirming sale of the present watch with serial number 7’336’480 to John Anderson, service Rolex Guarantee dated March 03rd, 1992, green document holder, two Submariner product literature booklets, presentation anchor, numbered hang tag, “faux seal” tag, COMEX pin, fitted presentation box and outer packaging and additional VHS cassette. Furthermore accompanied by a copy of a COMEX dive log.
Released in 1978 and in production for only one decade until 1988, the Rolex Sea-Dweller reference 16660 has become through the years an extremely collectable and desirable model. Collectors have realized the importance of this reference as it was a transitional model, acting as a bridge between the past and the future.
With the reference 16660, Rolex brought about some major changes to the Sea-Dweller model, such as a new sapphire crystal material, new movement, quickset date functionality and doubled water resistance. It is noticeable and key to remember that according to Rolex’s timeline the references 1665 and 16660 were simultaneously in production for at least five years, explaining the fact that some early reference 16660s still featured a matte dial with tritium lume plots applied directly on it, like the present example. Later examples of reference 16660 featured gold-rimmed indexes and gloss dial, traits which would come to define the later production of Rolex diver’s watches.
126. ROLEX A fine, sporty and very rare stainless steel automatic divers wristwatch with center seconds, date, gas escape valve, bracelet, COMEX certificate and box, made for COMEX
It is believed that the first 80 to 100 reference 16660 with matte dial and two line text where delivered to COMEX.
In recent years, COMEX models have garnered recognition and rarity among the most ardent Rolex collectors. Rolex collaborated with several professionals in the sector of deep sea research, most notably COMEX (Compagnie Maritime d’Expertises), an oil industry-specific diving business located in Marseille. COMEX and Rolex had a particular relationship, and over the years, several watches with “COMEX” casebacks and dials were given to its expert divers. The inner casebacks of COMEX watches would, like many special commission Rolex watches, repeat the serial number (either the complete serial or the final three digits).
It is clear by following the number sequences that Rolex delivered these pieces to COMEX in two main batches or runs. The initial batch of approximately 80/100 pieces arrived in 1982 featuring, like the present extremely rare example, matte dial with case numbers in the range of 7’100’xxx to 7’350’xxx. The remaining batch was probably delivered in 85’ with glossy dials and case numbers spanning from 8’350’xxx and 9’300’xxx.
The present timepiece is however not like any other ultra rare, early COMEX models. It comes directly from the original COMEX Diver, John Anderson, and is accompanied by the original COMEX Property receipt given to him directly in 1982. Preserved in its original state, and thoroughly used with its original intention the watch comes with its complete set of accessories including the Rolex anchor, COMEX pin and numbered sale tag. These details, paired with its super history and provenance, make this timepiece the “ultimate” COMEX 16660 in terms of collectability.
John Anderson
John Anderson began his diving career by working as an Ultrasonic Inspection Engineer with Brentfield Construction. It was in 1978 that he joined COMEX, and by 1980 he became a fully trained Mixed Gas Diver.
Anderson worked in renowned vessels like The Uncle John and the MSV Stadive, from which Mr Anderson was called to assist in the recovery efforts from the 1986 Chinook disaster. The accompanying video, made by the inspection engineers onboard the MSV Stadive, (and featuring Mr Anderson) shows many of the underwater working conditions, a snapshot of divers working life during this period of fast-paced innovation, exploration and daily death defiance.
After 10 years with COMEX, it was traditional for divers to receive a watch, famously a Rolex dive tool such as this one. Frustratingly for Mr Anderson, when his 10th anniversary arrived, COMEX had switched to a gold Longines dress watch, not the rugged working watch he was hoping for, and felt he deserved. A special request was logged with COMEX, and a Sea-Dweller was made available for private purchase, as detailed on the accompanying receipt for £490, confirming the serial and issue number 3063 but making the mistake that at some point, most people new to the nuance of Rolex nomenclature make, of calling the watch a Submariner Date, rather than Sea-Dweller. The watch remained his daily wearer and trusted dive instrument to this day.
Mr Anderson made his last saturation dive in 1992 and left Comex 6 years later, continuing work in the industry before retiring to Scotland.
Manufacturer Omega Year 1967
Reference No. 165024-64
Movement No. 24’723’472
Case No. Engraved W10/6645-99-923-7697 A/312/67
Model Name Seamaster 300
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 552, 24 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Nato
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate
CHF 30,000-50,000
$30,500-50,800
€30,800-51,300
Accessories
Accompanied by Omega Extract from the Archives confirming delivery of the present watch to the British Army and its production date in 1967.
Officially introduced in 1957, the Seamaster 300 is part of Omega’s “Professional” tool watches line produced for professional and recreational divers. Between 1967 and 1970, a very small batch of this reference was made for military use. Custom designed by Omega to meet the British Ministry of Defense’s specifications, their cases, with distinctive curved and beveled lugs, were delivered with fixed spring bars. The dials featured an encircled ‘T’ designation, signifying the use of tritium for the luminous hour markers and broad, sword-shaped hour and minute hands, along with an angular, sweep seconds hand specially designed for military use. The crown was screw down opposed to the snap down design found on standard production models.
The present example is certainly a rare timepiece, featuring caseback engravings that confirm the originality of the watch.
On the first line the “broad arrow” insignia means that the watch was issued to the British military. “W10” signifies that the watch was issued to the British Royal Army, “6645” signifies the present object to be a time measuring instrument, “99” is the NATO code for the UK, “923-7697” on the third line is the NATO code to signify the present watch as a diver’s watch and lastly “A/312” is the individual number issued and “67” confirms that the watch was deployed in 1967.
Preserved in great overall condition, this rare military timepiece is certainly one not to miss for collectors of vintage professional tool watches.
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1995
Reference No. 16520, inside caseback stamped “16500”
Movement No. 87’203
Case No. W456687
Model Name Cosmograph Daytona “Patrizzi” dial
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 4030, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “503 B” and “78390”, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped “W4 78390”
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 35,000-70,000
$35,600-71,200
€35,900-71,800
First released in 1988, the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona reference 16520 was the firm’s first Daytona model to feature a self-winding caliber. The reliable Zenith El Primero, considered as one of the best self-winding chronograph movements at the time, was chosen as the base which Rolex further upgraded
to achieve their remarkable cal. 4030. While in production for about 12-13 years, the model features a variety of dial variations.
The “Patrizzi” dial - exemplified by this piece - is without a doubt one of the most attractive and sought-after by collectors.
It can be considered one of the most visually striking dial variations found on the model. In fact, these dials are the result of a proper defect: some batches of the varnish used at the time by Rolex present chemical instability which, due to reaction with outside agents (UV, moisture etc.) darkened over time. It appears that such a peculiarity can only be found on examples bearing a S,N,T and W (such as the present watch) serials, and only on some examples from these series not all of the production.
Arguably, the present watch represents one of the most appealing examples of Patrizzi dial to grace an auction room.
It features an absolutely perfectly even milk chocolate hue tropicalisation, so complementary to the black dial color that one might think they are looking at the original Rolex design.
The case condition matches, if not surpasses, that of the dial.
Obviously unpolished, hardly ever worn, and still retaining plastic protection ring and green sticker, it could be used to scholarly study how a 16520 case was when it originally left the factory.
Combining condition, looks, intellectual intrigue and absurd rarity, the present watch is without a doubt one of the most appealing Patrizzi 16520 to ever appear on the market.
Manufacturer
No.
Model
Cosmograph
Material Platinum
Calibre Automatic, cal. 4130, 44 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Platinum Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 190mm Clasp/Buckle Platinum Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 120,000-200,000
$122,000-203,000
€123,000-205,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex guarantee dated March 06, 2017, product literature, presentation box and outer packaging.
The reference 116506 was introduced at the Baselworld in 2013 to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona model. Reference 116506 is also the first platinum Daytona Chronograph ever offered by Rolex for sale. For the reference 116506, Rolex uses 950 platinum meticulously made by Rolex’s in-house professional craftsmen.
The present watch is an incredibly exclusive version, fitted with a diamond pavé dial with ice blue subsidiary registers, giving the watch an even more glamorous touch. Ice blue is used exclusively on platinum models by Rolex, including the Day-Date, Datejust and the present Cosmograph Daytona. Preserved in excellent condition, the present watch is accompanied by all its original accessories such as guarantee, product literature and presentation box.
ROLEX A “new old stock”, highly important, stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with center seconds, date, helium escape valve, bracelet, bespoke dial, engraved caseback, box, Guarantee, historical documents and military accessories. Made for the Chief of Italian Police Giovanni De Gennaro
Manufacturer Rolex
Year 2008
Reference No. 16600
Case No. V319075
Model Name Sea-Dweller, “Polipetto”
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 3135, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 190mm. Additional Atelier del Cinturino “Octopus” leather strap
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex Oyster extendable deployant clasp stamped PJ1 and 93160 A. Additional stainless steel Rolex pin buckle
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 150,000-300,000
$156,000-312,000
€156,000-312,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex Guarantee card in the name of Giovanni De Gennaro, stamped by La Spezia retailer “Montres et Bijoux di Giorgini” and dated December 2008, decompression table, plastic anchor, literature, green document holder, fitted presentation box and outer packaging.
Furthermore delivered with original sale declaration of Giovanni De Gennaro dated June 23, 2014, Knight Grand Cross of the Order of Merit of the Italian Republic badge, vintage 2006 bespoken 75cl bottle of red wine “Auxo Colli di Luni” in bespoken wooden box with drinking tools (thermometer, bottle opener, cap, oxygenation tool and anti-drop ring), Italian Police (IP) shirt and baseball cap, IP notebook and pen, 15 IP pins, 6 IP wooden crests, 1 FBI wooden crest, 1 DIA wooden crest, 2 IP paperweights and 1 IP fabric emblem.
Additionally, delivered with a binder including numerous newspaper articles about De Gennaro and a 6-page letter about the reasons why he was awarded the FBI Medal for Meritorious Achievements.
The Rolex Sea-Dweller ref. 16600 made for the Scuba Diving Corps of the Italian State Police - a.k.a. the “Polipetto”was realised in 78 examples in 2008 to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the division. None of the watches were ever available to the general public, rather they were assigned to internal police personnel, and all of them were sold by the La Spezia (an Italian coastal town) Rolex retailer.
It is understood that of these 78 examples, about 50 bear a back with only the commemorative engraving and 25 were assigned to scuba divers and bear the brevet number of the owner to the back. This leaves 3 watches left, which were reserved to high ranking police officials and each bear a personalised engraving. In fact, the watch bearing the engraving “C.N” - the specimen here proposed - was reserved for the highest ranking Police official overall: supreme Chief of the Italian Police Giovanni de Gennaro, making it without a doubt the most important example of the series.
Offered in absolutely untouched condition, the piece was purchased from De Gennaro by the current owner - as testified by the accompanying sale declaration signed by De Gennaro and dated June 23, 2014. Such a document not only fully certifies the complete history of the watch but it furthermore offers some insight into the “C.N.” engraving. Chief De Gennaro wrote in the declaration the following statement “In order to protect my safety and that of my family, I will not put in writing the personal meaning of the engraving, but I will verbally divulge it to the new owner of the watch”. While incredibly inspiring and a superb example of the moral strength and rectitude of Chief De Gennaro, we decided to honour his desire for privacy and will not put the information into this catalogue. Rather, it will be verbally communicated to the new owner of the watch.
The Polipetto formerly belonging to the Chief of Police goes above and beyond anything seen so far in terms of accessories: a direct testimony of the prestige, power and the historical relevance of Chief De Gennaro.
The most historically relevant accessory is without a doubt the badge he received when he was knighted “Knight Grand Cross of the Order of Merit of the Italian Republic” (Cavaliere di Gran Croce Ordine al Merito della Repubblica Italiana) on June 2, 2000, one of the highest ranks of the Order, which is the senior Italian Order of Merit.
Furthermore, the accessories include a bottle of red wine celebrating the 50th anniversary of the Scuba Diving corp with bespoke case and drinking tools, Italian Police (IP) shirt and baseball cap, IP notebook and pen, an outstanding collection of 15 IP pins, 5 IP wooden crests from various departments,
1 DIA crest and 1 FBI crest, two IP paperweights and one IP fabric emblem, making this without a doubt the most rich and relevant group of military accessories to ever appear with a Polipetto.
Finally, history buffs will rejoice in finding a binder holding not only a number of articles about De Gennaro from Italian papers, but also a 6 page letter in Italian explaining in detail the reasons why he was awarded the FBI Medal for Meritorious Achievements. While unfortunately there is no substantiation for this hypothesis - and the owner does not recall how he came in possession of this letter - given that the letter begins with “It is with great honour that we design Dr. Gianni De Gennaro, Chief of Italian Police, for the FBI Medal of Meritorious Achievements…” this appears to be a direct translation of the official FBI letter conferring the Medal to the Chief. According to this document, Rudolph Giuliani was one of 6 people who were interviewed when considering De Gennaro as a candidate for the Medal.
GIOVANNI DE GENNARO
Born in Reggio Calabria on August 14, 1948 Giovanni “Gianni” De Gennaro, has been a pivotal figure of the fight against criminality in the second part of the last century, both in Italy and abroad.
His career begins in Rome in the 1970s, and his first milestone is the creation of the “Servizio Centrale Operativo” (central operative service) - the coordination unit of the Italian Police in the late 1980s. He then moves on to DIA (Direzione Investigativa Antimafia - Anti-Mafia investigation Directorate) of which he becomes director in 1993. He holds the position for 4 years before becoming Vice-Chief of Police in 1997 and eventually Chief of the Italian Police in 2000. In 2007 he serves as Head of Staff of the Ministry of Internal Affairs, the first of a series of important managing positions among which, in 2008, Director of the DIS (Dipartimento delle informazioni per la Sicurezza - Department of Security Intelligence), which is basically the Italian counterpart to the CIA. In 2013 he is nominated Director of the defence contractor Finmeccanica (later called Leonardo), a position he holds until 2020.
His fight against criminality, most notably organised crime, is recognised worldwide: he is one of the very few non Americans to whom the FBI awarded the Medal of Meritorious Achievement. This honour was in virtue of the efforts of De Gennaro against organized criminality, most notably taking part in the historical “Pizza Connection” and “Iron Tower” operations in the USA, but also for his overall heroism, professionalism and continuing support over the years to the cooperation of international police forces.
LOUIS ERARD X ALAIN SILBERSTEIN A playful and unusual titanium wristwatch with regulator display, part of a 50 piece limited edition made for the 50th anniversary of the UAE
Year 2022
Reference No. 85358TT12.BTT82
Model Name Le Régulateur II “Year of the Fiftieth”
Material Titanium
Calibre Automatic, cal. Sellita SW266-1, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Elastic hook-and-loop fastener strap
Clasp/Buckle Titanium
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate
CHF 2,000-4,000
$2,000-4,100
€2,100-4,100
Accessories
Accompanied by Louis Erard wooden fitted box, warranty card dated January 2022, certificate of authenticity and additional orange strap.
The Louis Erard watches designed by Alain Silberstein have garnered immense international success with each offering selling out within minutes.
The present Le Régulateur II takes Silberstein’s design language to a whole new level of panache and playfulness. Made in a limited edition of 50 pieces in celebration of the 50th anniversary of the UAE, it is cased in a 40mm brushed and polished titanium case with a vibrant dial never seen on the past creations.
The dial is in carbon fiber with orange indexes and a light blue outer track. An orange triangle indicates the hours on a subdial at 12 o’clock, a large central white arrow hand indicates the minutes and a small swirly yellow seconds hand is located at 6 o’clock. Indeed, trained as an interior architect and designer, one can’t help but notice the influences of painters such as Paul Klee, Kandinsky, Malevitch or their contemporary Keith Haring in the creation of this sophisticated timepiece.
Limited to only 50 pieces pieces, Le Régulateur II “Year of the Fiftieth” is a perfect example of Silberstein’s a fun and quirky take on the regulator design. With a combination of traditional Swiss watchmaking heritage and modern geometrical aesthetics, the present timepiece can only be described as a gratifying piece of mechanical art.
ALAIN SILBERSTEIN
A very rare, unusual and eccentric limited edition brown PVD-coated stainless steel flying tourbillon wristwatch with cloisonné enamel camouflage dial, date, certificate and presentation box, numbered 28 of a limited edition of 500 pieces
Manufacturer Alain Silberstein
Year Circa 2000
Case No. 028/500
Model Name Tourbillon D’Art Volant
Material PVD-coated stainless steel
Calibre Manual, cal. ASC 1.3,25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle PVD-coated stainless steel Alain Silberstein buckle
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 20,000-40,000
$20,300-40,700
€20,500-41,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Alain Silberstein certificate, instruction manual, screwdrivers, springbar tool and fitted presentation box.
Instantly recognizable by his bold use of colorway and geometry, Alain Silberstein is the enfant terrible of watchmaking. Truly exemplifying Silberstein’s vision of blending high horology with Bauhaus design, the present Tourbillon D’Art Volant immediately grabs your attention with its camouflage dial. Executed with perfection, it is made of cloisonné technique, showcasing artisanal flair. Boasting in an unusual brown PVD-coated stainless steel porthole-shaped case, the caseband is further wrapped with near chocolate brown leather. Executed in the utmost playful manner, the combination of bright coloured hands and Kandinsky inspired crown are signatures to the brand. The flying tourbillon stages at the lower part of the recessed dial, allowing for a greater view of the mechanics and perlage finishing.
The present example is in an unworn new-old-stock condition numbered 28 of a limited series of 500 pieces. Interestingly, likely to be an oversight by the retailer, the certificate is miswritten as number 22.
Extraordinary with incomparable playful charm, it is believed that the production run of these flying tourbillon was never completed, making these an uber rare timepiece by the eccentric brand that never settles to think inside the box.
Souverain
Manufacturer F.P. Journe
Year 2011
Case No. 132-CT
Model Name Centigraphe Souverain
Material Platinum
Calibre Manual, cal. 1506, 50 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Platinum F.P. Journe pin buckle
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 80,000-160,000
$81,300-163,000
€82,100-164,000
Accessories
Accompanied by F. P. Journe Garantie stamped 21 March, 2011, user’s manual, fitted presentation box and outer packaging.
F.P. Journe’s founding philosophy is to constantly apply innovative ideas to his creations, and the Centigraph (made from 2008 to 2018) is a perfect example of such ethos.
This ingenious timepiece indicates elapsed times from a 100th of a second to 10 minutes via the three subdials, each with a time scale in red and a tachometer scale in black. Powered by
the firm’s in-house cal. 1506 composed of 18K pink gold, the highly sophisticated movement enables the dial to feature an unconventional chronograph with 100th of a second register, 20-second register and a 10-minute register.
The 100th of a second hand placed in the subdial at 11 o’clock revolves around the dial in one second on a scale marked in 100th of a second. Theoretically it is thus possible to time an object moving at 36,000 KM/H.
The hand on the subdial at 2 o’clock revolves once every 20 seconds and the hand on the subdial at 6 is graduated for 10 minutes.
Furthermore, another creative approach is implemented to replace the traditional chronograph pushers by a rocker at 2 o’clock that starts, stops and resets the registers that are all activated and stopped at the same time.
To achieve such a feature without interrupting the timekeeping system, a mechanism within isolates the chronograph from its timekeeping system, meaning that the amplitude would not be affected when the chronograph is activated.
The present example in platinum from 2011 is complete with its full set of accessories and offered in excellent overall condition.
two
Manufacturer Ming Year 2019
Reference No. 17.06
Case No. 001’150
Model Name 17.06 Copper
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, ETA 2824-2 Top grade, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel MING pin buckle
Dimensions 38mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 2,000-4,000 •
$2,000-4,100
€2,100-4,100
Accessories
Accompanied by MING presentation box and travel pouch.
MING is an incredibly creative micro brand whose first watch was launched in 2017 and has ever since hit a chord with collectors. Making only a handful of watches in small series each model is sold out within minutes of being released.
The brand takes the name of one of its founders and core drivers: Ming Thein, a physicist by training and a world renown photographer. A long time watch collector he decided that he wanted to create his own brand and offer a watch impeccably made but at a very competitive price point.
The 17.06 Copper is housed in a 38mm case featuring brushed and polished surfaces setting a perfect frame for the superb architecture of the dial with its central guilloché pattern and outer polished surface. Suspended above the dial is a sapphire ring from which luminous hour markers appear suspended. Polished hands are set close to the dial for minimal parallax, with just 0.3mm clearance to the crystal underside. Both dial and hands are loaded with Super-LumiNova C1 for a distinctive nocturnal signature.
The most impressive about the dial is the way the dial’s surface captures light and reflects it in the most delightful manner.
The MING 17.06 Copper was awarded the Horological Revelation prize at the 2019 Edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.
Manufacturer F.P. Journe
Year Circa 2015
Case No. 111-AL
Model Name Automatique Lune
Material 18K pink gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 1300.3, 40 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K pink gold F.P. Journe pin buckle
Dimensions 38mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 40,000-80,000
$41,600-83,200
€41,600-83,100
The Automatique Lune finds its roots within the Octa Lune that was launched in 2003 and in the same year won the “Best Men’s Watch” award at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) - the most prestigious award ceremony in the watch industry. It was part of the “Octa” collection, stemming from the first automatic calibre developed by Journe (after the tourbillon and resonance movements) which had such an incredible adaptivity that five watch models, all 38 mm in diameter and all with different complications, eventually employed it. The movement also sported an astounding 120 hours power reserve.
The Automatique Lune, launched in 2015 takes the same indications as found in the Octa Lune but this time with central hands, an enlarged date aperture and a sapphire moonphase display.
The 271 component Cal. 1300.3 beats within the Automatique Lune, this movement features optimized winding, even for those with a very sedentary life, whereby even the slightest movement of the arm would put the rotor in motion and wind the watch.
Manufacturer De Bethune
Year Circa 2007
Reference No. DB25 Prototype
Model Name DB25 Power Reserve
Material 18K pink gold
Calibre Automatic, cal DB2024.175
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Metal
Dimensions 44mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial and movement signed
Provenance
Private collection of David Zanetta
Estimate
CHF 40,000-80,000 O
$40,700-81,300
€41,000-82,100
Accessories
Accompanied by Certificate of Authenticity and provenance signed by DeBethune Co-founder David Zanetta.
The present DB25 with power reserve looks very different from the original DB25 launched in 2007 as the dial features a silvered outer section as well as a spherical power reserve indicator, the
reason being that the present watch is in fact the prototype for the original DB25 with power reserve introduced in 2007.
Horological maestro Denis Flageollet teamed up with collector extraordinaire David Zanetta in 2002 to create the independent watchmaking tour-de-force that is De Bethune, striving to implement avant-garde designs rooted in traditional watchmaking principals. In the almost two decades since, they have developed over thirty in-house movements and a cavalcade of technical innovations.
Inside is De Bethune’s first automatic caliber, launched in 2006 with a six day power reserve, a titanium and platinum balance wheel, and an innovative shock-absorbing system for the ceramic ball-bearings used in the automatic winding assembly.
The present watch is the first and only prototype made of this model and was the personal timepiece of David Zanetta, the co-founder of the brand, who is now offering it to the market for the very first time.
About the DB25 project, Mr. Zanetta has the following remarks: “my intent with the DB25 was to merge the most classic horological aesthetics with the foremost technological solution available at the time, to create a bridge between past and future of mechanical horology.”.
Manufacturer De Bethune
Year 2008
Reference No. DW1PS8
Case No. 000
Model Name Dream Watch 1 Prototype
Material Platinum
Calibre Manual, inhouse calibre
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions 44.5mm Diameter
Signed Case and movement signed
Provenance
Private collection of David Zanetta
Estimate
CHF 80,000-160,000 O
$81,300-163,000
€82,100-164,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Certificate of Authenticity and provenance signed by DeBethune Co-founder David Zanetta.
The Dream Watch 1 represents an extreme work on the verge of folly and genius in terms of shapes, materials and colors.
But even more, the Dream Watch collection is a laboratory for De Bethune’s future creations. The present Dream Watch 1 for example was the original canvas that resulted in the brand’s most celebrated model: the DB28.
The watch is a cauldron of groundbreaking ideas. The balance wheel for example was at the time the lightest balance wheel ever made. It featured high inertia and low weight thanks to the central silicium dic and an outer platinum bracing. Another absolute novelty is the presence of two pushers in the back which allow for micrometrical regulation of the ratchet, a level of finesse found only on high-end timepieces and never before self-adjustable without the help of a watchmaker. This case is the very first case in watchmaking to feature floating lugs kept in tension via a spring, ensuring perfect fit to the wrist under any kinetic condition.
Such an amount of innovation and experimentation made more than a splash in the “horological pond”, so much so that the DB28 went on to win Robb Report Magazine’s “Best of the Best” prize in 2009 . Beyond all the innovation, the present Dream Watch 1 is a true piece of independent horological history as it bears number 000: the first and only prototype made and the personal timepiece of David Zanetta, the cofounder of the brand. About this watch, he has the following statement: “The DW1 is without a doubt the project that challenged me most during its development, but also the one the most gratified me once finished. From the futuristic design to the various technical implementations, the piece is a tourde-force of innovation and can be considered a practical treaty about the core ethos of De Bethune. I consider it the spirit of classic beauty in the future.”
Manufacturer
SARTORY
custom made
titanium dial,
Sartory Billard
Sartory Billard is a new creative micro brand with an incredible value proposition founded by industrial designer turned watchmaker Armand Billard.
Whereas Sartory Billard gained success and followership with his automatic SB04 with central seconds, he upped the ante and increased the attention to details even higher with his new SB05 featuring a slim 38.5mm case with brushed flanks, an attractive contemporary movement with ruthenium finish with a 4 day power reserve and an incredible dial that can be customized ad infinitum according to the client’s desires.
In fact all of the Sartory Billard watches are made on commission with waiting times of over 2 years!
The present example, in absolutely superb condition features a visually arresting multi-level titanium dial, with a textured heat blued exterior and a mirror polished central section.
URBAN JÜRGENSEN
An extremely well-preserved, rare and early yellow gold wristwatch with guilloché dial, original certificate and presentation box
Manufacturer Urban Jürgensen
Year Circa 1999
Movement No. 80’542
Model Name Reference 8
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Automatic, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Urban Jürgensen buckle
Dimensions 37mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 10,000-20,000 ∑
$10,200-20,300
€10,300-20,500
Accessories
Accompanied by Urban Jürgensen Certificate of Authenticity dated 2021, product literature, hang tag, presentation box and outer packaging.
Since its acquisition in 1985 by Peter Baumberger and subsequent rebirth in the 1990s under the technical supervision of Derek Pratt and Kari Voutilainen, Urban Jürgensen has always maintained an immediately recognizable visual
language with its elegant slim stepped cases, tear drop lugs, lavish guilloché dials and elaborate hands.
The present watch perfectly encapsulates Urban Jürgensen’s design philosophy. An early example made in the 1990s, it most notably displays a 37mm yellow gold case with immediatelyrecognizable teardrop lugs and a convex bezel. Finished to perfection, the case has been made in the “traditional” way, meaning that each component has been hand polished and made without the overuse of modern technology.
The dial is a work of beauty, being decorated with a guilloché finish, made by hand. The numerals are made with blue enamel, and the contrasting patterns are delicate and a sight to behold.
Most interestingly, the present watch was found as old stock at a retailer in 2021, having sat as-is in the stockroom for many years (also explaining the fact that the certificate is dated 2021). As such, it has been barely used and even still retains its original sticker and hand tags. The present watch represents the dream of independent watchmaking, made under the leadership of the horological greats: Derek Pratt, Kari Voutilainen and Peter Baumberger, reflecting a bygone era and produced during one of the most productive moments in the history of independent watchmaking.
F.P. JOURNE A technically impressive, rare and attractive platinum chronometer dual time wristwatch with double escapement, Certificate of Authenticity and presentation box
Manufacturer F.P. Journe
Year 2004
Case No. 387-04R
Model Name Chronomètre à Résonance
Material Platinum
Calibre Manual, cal. 1499, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Platinum F.P. Journe pin buckle
Dimensions 38mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 180,000-360,000
$183,000-366,000
€185,000-369,000
Accessories
Accompanied by F.P. Journe Certificate of Authenticity, product literature, fitted box and outer packaging.
With the launch of his Tourbillon in 1999 followed by the Resonance in 2000 François-Paul Journe not immediately created a design language he still uses today but two icons of contemporary horology.
The first generation Chronomètre à Résonance featured a 38mm diameter case with brass movement and was inspired by the work of the great 18th century watchmaker, Antide Janvier. In 1983, Journe sought to emulate the legendary Janvier by creating a pocket-watch using the resonance phenomenon, and 16 years later, he introduced his now iconic Résonance wristwatch. It was the world’s first wristwatch to use the resonance phenomenon, whereby the movement is composed of two independent balances, alternatively serving as an “exciter” and “resonator”. When in motion, the balances create the resonance effect and beat in opposition, naturally evening out each other’s discrepancies and thus permitting greater accuracy.
Not only a wonderful tribute to technical watchmaking, the Chronomètre à Résonance is also an extremely useful dual time watch.
The present example with its vibrant yellow gold dial dates from 2004 and thus is part of the very last batch of firstgeneration Resonance models with a brass movement and 38mm case.
Chronomètre à Résonance 38mm Brass MovementOften called the Renaissance Watchmaker, George Daniels was the founding father of independent watchmaking in the second half of the 20th century. His contribution to the art of watchmaking can be seen in his gloriously hand-crafted creations, that incorporate the various inventions he made.
With the dawning of a new Millennium imminent Daniels wanted to create a watch to celebrate the spirit of the age. It was to be one of the first independently made series of wristwatches to be constructed.
We are delighted to be offering collectors one of these much sought after watches from the George Daniels Millennium series. A piece that embodies the essence of its creator.
George Daniels’ path to watchmaking greatness would begin with an encounter with a pocket watch at the tender age of five – and they held his focus for the remainder of his life. His horological career began as a trade watch repairer, a skill that was self-taught.
Manufacturer George Daniels
Year 2000
Case No. Case engraved 00 (year of production 2000) and name of owner
Model Name Millennium
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Automatic, Co-axial escapement
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold George Daniels pin buckle
Dimensions 37mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 250,000-500,000
$254,000-508,000
€256,000-513,000
Accessories
Accompanied by fitted box, photos, instruction manual and advertising leaflet as well as 4 hand written letters from George Daniels to the purchaser.
Shortly after World War II Daniels set up his own workshop repairing watches and, in his spare time, restoring cars. A major turning point in his life came in 1960 when he met Cecil ‘Sam’ Clutton. Sam was, like George, a connoisseur of vintage
cars, but he was also a man with an impressive antique watch collection, and with many connections to other horological collectors and institutions. These connections provided superb watches, by some of the greatest past makers, for Daniels to work on.
A Master of the Worshipful Company of Clockmakers, Daniels explored watchmaking’s traditional past, seeking to improve upon it, and advancing precision timekeeping. Amongst others, he studied the 18th/19th century master Abraham-Louis Breguet, who Daniels held in great esteem, citing him as his most important influence. He became a renowned expert on Breguet’s work and wrote the definitive book on the subject, The Art of Breguet.
After producing a number of sensational pocket watches with chronometer and doublewheel escapements, Daniels had the idea for the Co-axial escapement in 1975, a game changing invention which resulted from his detailed historical study of the subject. It was designed to incorporate the key features required for a practical, high precision escapement and functions with a system of three pallets separating the locking function from the impulse, avoiding the sliding friction of the lever escapement. This makes lubrication of the pallets theoretically unnecessary and thereby eliminates one of the shortcomings of the traditional lever escapement.
The Co-axial was fitted to seven Daniels pocket watches created between 1979 and 1994. During this period Daniels approached the Swiss watch industry with a view to incorporating the escapement in a wristwatch. In 1999, Omega triumphantly launched the Co-axial at the Basel Fair, subsequently investing heavily in it to enable mass production. It is now used in virtually every Omega model in the current wristwatch collection, and has been further refined and developed by them, and separately, by Daniels’ protégé Roger Smith for use in his superlative watches.
As part of the Omega contract, Daniels received a number of ebauches to be used as a platform for a small series of wristwatches to his own design. The Millennium shares many characteristics with his pocket watches and were, with the assistance of Roger Smith, constructed over a three-year period. Initially the idea was to make a dozen watches, but this number soon grew due to demand from eager friends who wished to own a Daniels.
In total forty-eight watches in yellow gold including the prototype, and eight in white gold were made.
The movements are meticulously hand-finished in the traditional English manner, with gilded plates and blued screws. With its 18K gold engine-turned winding weight, the movement is set in a beautifully hand-engraved eccentric holder. In the distinctive Daniels style, the silver dials are exquisitely engine turned with three different patterns for a distinctive and legible look. The glazed gold cases, with their off-set winding crown at seven, are London hallmarked and each discreetly exhibits the original owner’s initials.
Not only does the present watch come with its original fitted box, photos, instruction manual and advertising leaflet, but most importantly it is accompanied by four hand written letters from George Daniels to the purchaser.
Offered in public for the first time, and coming directly from the original owner, this Millennium watch offers the connoisseur a golden opportunity to own a significant part of contemporary watchmaking art.
We would like to thank David Newman of The George Daniels Educational Trust, Richard Stenning of Charles Frodsham & Co., and Roger Smith for their insight and help on cataloguing this watch.
Model
in Good Time
Material Leather bound
Dimensions
220mm 277 pages
Signed Book signed by George
CHF 1,000-2,000
The present book is a luxurious leather bound limited edition book of George Daniels’ autobiography “All in Good Time”. The cover is in leather, with gold tooling and a recessed panel covered by a glass containing a watch component made by George Daniels.
The printing of this 27 (for the number of pocket watches Daniels created) limited edition book was a gift to Daniels for his 80th birthday in 2006 by the very friend who had convinced him to part with his everyday watch: the Spring Case Tourbillon.
The present example number 19 is presented in a drop-black box, 277 pages and 19 color plates.
DEREK PRATT FOR URBAN JÜRGENSEN
With the rising interest in independent watchmaking, Derek Pratt’s aura has also grown. He started as a watchmaker revered by a select few, yet his name and oeuvres – never being mainstream - have now led to an almost cult following for those in the know.
A British horologist, Pratt was a contemporary of George Daniels with whom he had long telephone conversations each Sunday, where each exchanged experiences and challenges they faced in their respective pursuit of chronometry. Even though not officially recognized by Daniels, the latter consulted Pratt on many of his innovations and Pratt even made some components for him. A watchmaker who spent his life studying the old masters such as Breguet or Tompion and mastering their techniques, Pratt never signed his watches, even under the newly reborn Urban Jürgensen & Sönner brand, where he was technical director from 1982 to 2005.
Urban Jürgensen was considered as one of the greatest watchmakers of the 19th century. Appointed to the court of Denmark, he established himself in Switzerland catering to monarchs, aristocrats and the greats of Europe. His name was abandoned in the early 20th century - even though workshops in Copenhagen were maintained all along- but brought back to life by watchmaker and entrepreneur Peter Baumberger, who first bought the name in 1979 and then the whole company in 1985. Pratt designed complications for Urban Jürgensen and even created the brand’s beautiful guilloché dials. However, his true passion laid in pocket watches - a passion that materialized under the form of the superb pocket watches he made for the brand using only traditional techniques and no CNC machines.
Manufacturer
DEREK
“Grande
extremely rare, refined, complicated and
single-button chronograph, minute repeating, perpetual
and open
Calibre
Urban
Accessories
Accompanied by a blank Urban Jürgensen & Sønner Certificate of Origin, fitted wooden presentation box and outer packaging.
80,000-160,000
The present triple complication pocket watch features a minute repeater, perpetual calendar and chronograph and uses a repeater chronograph ébauche from the Vallée de Joux for which Pratt designed a perpetual calendar module. Every component in this masterpiece, from the bridges to the tiniest of screws, involves manual labor, may it be adjusted tolerances, polishing, angling and so on. Pratt’s attention to detail is exemplified in the fact that even the underdial components that remain hidden are finished to the same standards.
The incredible guilloché dial featuring 3 different patterns was hand made by Pratt, a painstaking manual work that took him close to a week to finish. The case is also hand made with a cavalcade of subtle details making it a work of art on to its own.
Pratt made 16 perpetual calendar pocket watches with different added functions between 1978 and 2000. Scholarship and intensive research show that the present example is the only known piece that features a perpetual calendar, minute repeater chronograph with the minutes counter (placed at 12 o’clock within the month subdial.
Pratt earned a number of awards throughout his lifetime including Freeman of England’s Worshipful Company of Clockmakers (1979), Liveryman of the society (1982), silver medal of British Horological Institute (1992), the MIH’s Prix Gaïa for artisanal creation (1999), and the Tompion gold medal of the Worshipful Company of Clockmakers (2005).
DEREK
Manufacturer Voutilainen
Year Circa 2019
Reference No. 217QRS
Movement No. 217QRS PT-08
Case No. 08/10
Model Name “Retrograde Date”
Material Platinum
Calibre Manual, cal. 217QRS, 39 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Alligator
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Voutilainen pin buckle
Dimensions 39mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 80,000-160,000 ∑
$81,300-163,000
€82,100-164,000
Accessories
Accompanied by fitted box, Guarantee, servicing booklet, 3 additional straps, polishing cloth and outer packaging.
Literature
Kari Voutilainen and his works are featured in Kari Voutilainen Horlogerie d’Art by Theodore Diehl as well as in Watchmakers, The Masters of Art Horology by Maxima Gallery pp 228-247 and in Twelve faces of Time, Horological Virtuosos by Elisabeth Doerr and Ralf Baumgarten pp. 90-105
Is it really necessary to present Kari Voutilainen ? As one of the most talented living watchmakers today, he has garnered a cult following in the collecting community. His movements, cases and sublime guilloché dials are all made inhouse. Every component in his watches, from the bridges to the tiniest of screws, involves manual labor.
The present 217QRS uses Voutilainen’s ground-breaking caliber Vingt-8 that features a complex direct impulse escapement enabling a more constant distribution of energy. Furthermore, the extra-large balance allows fine regulation of the watch using a rare balance spring system with the exterior of the spring using a Breguet overcoil, while the internal curve uses the little-known Grossmann curve.
The movement features a retrograde date indication fully integrated in the movement. The date - when advancing from 31 to 1 does not simply jump to 1 but very elegantly "glides" back in a motion that takes close to 2 seconds - a feat that took Voutilainen quite some time to develop and perfect. The date can be set via a simple push of the crown. The movement can be unabashedly described as a work of art for which every shape has been carefully thought out and executed, and every individual component has been painstakingly hand finished in Voutilainen’s ateliers in Môtiers, Switzerland. The 217QRS also features a dark blue lavishly guilloché dial set in a platinum case with downturned facetted lugs (that differ to the habitual tear drop lugs used by Voutilainen).
This model was produced in a limited edition of 10 pieces in platinum like the present example numbered 8/10, 10 pieces in white gold and 10 pieces in pink gold.
AUDEMARS PIGUET A fine and attractive pink gold chronograph wristwatch made to commemorate the 30th anniversary of the Royal Oak, certificate and presentation box, limited edition of 200 examples
Manufacturer Audemars Piguet
Year 2003
Reference No. 25979OR
Movement No. 529’609
Case No. E-86144
Model Name “City of Sails” 30th Anniversary Alinghi
Material 18K pink gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 2385, 37 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Rubber
Clasp/Buckle 18K pink gold Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions 39mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 30,000-60,000
$30,500-61,000
€30,800-61,600
Accessories
Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Certificate of Origin stamped
Audemars Piguet Geneve dated April 14, 2003, Certificate of Authenticity and Exclusivity confirming the present watch to be part of a limited edition of 200 pieces, instruction manuals, Alinghi bag and memorabilia, 3 Alinghi bottles of wine, outer packaging and fitted presentation box.
Released to commemorate the 30th anniversary of the Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet launched the City of Sails in collaboration with the Swiss America’s Cup team, Alinghi.
Cased in a 39mm solid-three body case the timepiece features a two-tone silver and white tapisserie dial with luminous Arabic numeral hour markers and “AP” at the 12 o’clock position. Three recessed white subsidiary dials with black Arabic numerals are also present, one of them bearing the distinctive red swirled Alinghi logo.
Behind the very graphic caseback commemorating the Royal Oak anniversary, the timepiece is powered by the caliber 2385, an automatic integrated column-wheel operated chronograph mechanism which boasts a 40 hours power reserve.
Offered with its complete set of accessories, bag, memorabilia, and part of a limited series, the present example in gorgeous condition is an exceptional opportunity for sea-sport aficionados to collect a timepiece commemorating a special moment for Audemars Piguet with the Alinghi team.
AUDEMARS PIGUET
An extremely attractive pink gold wristwatch with skeletonized dial, certificate of authenticity and box
Manufacturer Audemars Piguet
Year 2015
Reference No. 15305OR
Movement No. 945’590
Case No. I86792-0616
Model Name Royal Oak
Material 18K pink gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 3129, 38 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Alligator
Clasp/Buckle 18K pink gold Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions 39mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 70,000-140,000 ∑
$71,200-142,000
€71,800-144,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Audemars Piguet certificate of authenticity, instructions of use and original box with outer packaging.
The year 2022 marks the 50th anniversary of one of the most famous watches of the 20th century: the Royal Oak. Conceived by talented designer, Gerald Genta, legend has it that the first drawing of the watch only took him one night. A night to revolutionize the vision of luxury watchmaking and propel steel sports watches to the pinnacle of masculine elegance. Since 1972, Audemars Piguet has shown its boundless creativity on developing the Royal Oak. Initially presented in a stainless steel case, grey tapisserie dial, with a diameter of 39mm and with an integrated stainless steel bracelet, the model would be reincarnated in over 500 variations.
In 2010, the brand unveiled the reference 15305 at the SIHH (Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie based in Geneva). This new reference is powered by the caliber 3129, which is the openworked version of Audemar Piguet’s in-house 3120 found in the traditional reference 15300. The caseback and face of the watch reveal, through the anti-reflective sapphire crystal, the hand-finished and skeletonized ruthenium bridges and mainplate, as well as on the caseback side, the remarkable 22-carat gold winding rotor.
Offered in excellent condition thanks to a recent full overhaul at Audemars Piguet, the present pink gold skeleton Royal Oak comes with all its accessories: box, outer box, warranty and user manual.
AUDEMARS PIGUET
An outstanding, massive and extremely attractive stainless steel and platinum perpetual calendar wristwatch with moonphases, bracelet, guarantee and box
Manufacturer Audemars Piguet
Year Circa 2005
Reference No. 25820SP
Movement No. 550’131
Case No. F77752, 0382
Model Name Royal Oak
Material Stainless steel and platinum
Calibre Automatic, cal. 2120/2802, 38 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel and platinum Audemars Piguet integrated bracelet stamped “L” to the endlinks, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions 39mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 80,000-160,000
$81,300-163,000
€82,100-164,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Audemars Piguet undated Guarantee booklet stamped by Audemars Piguet (UK) and presentation box.
Launched in 1996 and in production until 2013, reference 25820 was made in total of 1235 examples of which 378 were in steel and platinum like the present model. It marked the introduction of the leap year indication on Royal Oak perpetual calendar models.
The aesthetic impact of this breathtaking perpetual calendar Royal Oak is entrusted to the combination of its black dial and mirror-polished platinum bezel and platinum bracelet links. While normally the Royal Oak bezel is satin-finished like most of the rest of the case, some rare examples - usually, but not exclusively, featuring platinum bezels such as in this instance - present this unusual mirror polishing. While it might sound as a simple detail, in fact this tweak changes dramatically the look of the piece. In this instance, the glimmer of the polished bezel is mirrored by the silvered chapter rings of the subsidiary counters. The final result is an ode to sporty elegance.
Offered in excellent condition and complete of its original Guarantee booklet and box, this timepiece is as easily wearable as it is enormously charming. A true classic destined to be as appealing and relevant in 50 years as it is today.
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 1979
Reference No. 3700/1
Movement No. 1’308’541
Case No. 538’777
Model Name Nautilus
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 28-255, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Patek Philippe bracelet, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions 42mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 70,000-140,000
$71,200-142,000
€71,800-144,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1979 and its subsequent sale on August 29th, 1980.
Since its introduction more than 45 years ago, the Patek Philippe Nautilus unveiled in 1976 altered the idea of a luxury sports watch in steel and truly revolutionized the landscape within the watch industry. The opus drawn by the legendary Gérald Genta whilst dining meters away from the Patek Philippe executives was inspired by the porthole of a ship constructed
via a solid mono-block case with octagonal bezel. The quick sketch of his became a true timeless horological masterpiece that is now more popular than ever to be known as the “Jumbo” Nautilus ref. 3700.
Developed in the midst of the quartz crisis, the relentlessness to preserve haute horology and to execute something truly special commanding the price of a gold watch was most definitely a calculated risk taken by the firm, which clearly paid off. In fact advertisements from the launch era boast the fact that one of the most expensive watches in the world was made of steel.
The production of the 3700 was segmented into two main series with early examples (1976-1982) stamped with ref. 3700/1 and later examples (1982-1990) stamped with 3700/11.
Early examples of the model featured a slightly wider bracelet measuring 16mm whilst later examples measured 14mm. The very first examples highlighted dials with small painted baton outer minute tracks, witnessed in examples bearing a case number lower than 1’303’999 and a movement number lower than 533’500. The second dial type featured a dotted outer minute track with “sigma SWISS sigma” applied on the bottom of the dial with an absence of serifs on the typography of the signature. As the dials for the reference were all handmade, the ribbed texture is achieved by carving each individual horizontal furrow by hand, the white gold applied hour markers were also handmade with the luminous material applied after.
The present watch was bought at the Patek Philippe Geneva salon by the father of the consignor who then gifted it to his son.
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 2017
Reference No. 5650G-001
Movement No. 7’051’093
Case No. 6’169’861
Model Name Advanced Research
Material 18K white gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 324 S C FUS, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Blue Rubber
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions 40.8mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 300,000-600,000
$305,000-610,000
€308,000-616,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated April 27, 2017, product literature, leather envelop, fitted presentation box and numbered service cardboard box.
In the early 2000s, Patek Philippe created the Advanced Research department with the goal of finding innovative timekeeping and engineering solutions intended to advance the field of watchmaking into the 21st century. Working with the CSEM research lab and the Ecole Polytechnique Fédérale de Lausanne, researchers originally focused on “new materials”, “new manufacturing technologies” and a “new conceptual fundamentals”. Out of this came Silinvar®, a patented monocrystal silicon. The material is unaffected by temperature change,
is very lightweight, requires no lubrication and is corrosion resistant. Patek Philippe’s first watch to use this new material was the reference 5250 Annual Calendar Advanced Research with Silinvar® escape wheel, and it was followed by 3 more models (5350, 5450 and 5550) which saw incremental application of the technology to the hairspring, escape anchor, and eventually balance wheel, finally achieving a full escapement in silicon.
The fifth “brainchild” of the Advanced Research department, represented by the present piece, moved away from new materials to rather focus on a new application of an old material: stainless steel. Reference 5650G can be considered an archetypal result of the AR department. Inspired by the company’s heritage (the first travel time reference - ref. 2597dates back to the 1950s) Patek Philippe engineers found a novel way to construct Louis Cottier’s invention of a jumping hour hand. Using technologies unimaginable until a few years ago, the travel time system, originally constructed as an “old school” ensemble of hinged steel bridges and screws, was redesigned to be a single piece sporting flexible steel blades. This solution eliminates any hinged part from the system, thus enormously increasing its precision, resilience, and lifetime. The window cut into the dial of the watch allows the wearer to admire the entire system in action.
Produced in a limited edition of 500 timepieces, the model is currently one of the most heatedly sought-after modern Patek Philippe pieces. The present example is offered by the original owner and comes with all its original accessories. Furthermore, having been service at the company it is offered sealed in its service plastic sleeve and together with the service cardboard box.
PATEK PHILIPPE An exquisite, charming and highly uncommon pink gold rectangular wristwatch with flared lugs, retailed by Serpico y Laino
2442 "Marilyn Monroe for Serpico y Laino"
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 1953
Reference No. 2442
Movement No. 974’403
Case No. 671’687
Model Name “Marilyn Monroe”
Material 18K pink gold
Calibre Manual, cal. 9’’’90, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K pink gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions 26mm Width, 43mm Length
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed by maker, case further stamped by retailer
Estimate
CHF 20,000-40,000
$20,300-40,700
€20,500-41,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives.
First launched in 1948, reference 2442 is playfully dubbed “Marilyn Monroe” due to its curved and voluptuous case shape. It was a surprising design for Patek at the time, well removed from the utilitarian architectures seen during the 1930s and 1940s and anticipating the trend of shaped watches which will blossom in 1960s and 1970s.
The model most notably features curved and flared lugs, its 43 millimeter case sits incredibly well and gives a lot of presence on the wrist. It was cased mostly in yellow gold, but examples in pink gold are known - such as the present piece - as well as 3 specimens in platinum. According to research, pink gold examples are extremely scarce: so far, only 25 pink gold pieces have been identified and the total output is estimate to be 60 watches. However, the present piece happens to be 20 times as uncommon as the already very rare “standard” pink gold 2442, as it is one of three examples known to bear the S&L stamp to the back of the case, indicating it was retailed by Serpico y Laino. Serpico y Laino is one of the biggest names in vintage watch collecting circles as it was the leading Caracas watch retailer, their name present on the dial of some of the most important wristwatches to ever appear at auction.
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 1939
Reference No. 565
Movement No. 829’296
Case No. 618’972 and inner base metal dust cap cover present
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Manual, cal. 12-120 SC, 20 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Gay Frères riveted extendable bracelet, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Gay Frères deployant clasp
Dimensions 35mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial and movement signed, dial further signed Freccero
Estimate
CHF 100,000-200,000
$102,000-203,000
€103,000-205,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch with “Black dial, raised indexes in steel” in 1939 and its subsequent sale on August 31st, 1939.
The present lot, most probably fresh to the auction market, is one of the most impressive examples of its kind to ever appear.
To find a stainless steel reference 565 with black dial is already a rarity itself. Yet, to discover one that is confirmed by the Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives, retailed by Freccero and with an "ACUATIC" inscription on the dial is positively unheard of. In fact, the present watch is possibly the only known stainless steel reference 565 with black dial in the present configuration. There is a photograph of a similar watch that was sold in the 1980s at auction with the same characteristics and tiny visual differences, but given the lack of publicly published movement numbers, we cannot ascertain that the two are the same watch.
The watch is fitted with a black glossy finished dial that has aged beautifully through the passage of time. An additional layer of interest comes from the fact that this is one of the earliest examples of this model to feature the long painted "Patek Philippe & Co" signature that is free from any losses.
Patek Philippe's reference 565 is most certainly one of the most iconic time-only watches from the 1940s to bear the prestigious Geneva manufacture's name on the dial. Released in 1938, the model featured innovative and enduring qualities that today make it a collector’s favorite.
Furthermore, a very original and unusual “ACUATIC” inscription is featured at 6 o’clock referring to its water-resistant case corroborated by the screw-down caseback. The watch is furthermore fitted with a beautiful period correct Gay Frères bracelet that was added by the present owner to give the watch back its full splendour. Remarkably well-preserved, the case and the downturned lugs remain very sharp with well-defined proportions. Original stainless steel references 565 with black dials are of such rarity that in John Goldberger's Steel Watches book dedicated to Patek Philippe steel watches, there are only two examples illustrated further underlining their gem character.
Since the introduction of the world’s first perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch, Patek Philippe is regarded as one of the best (and, serially, the first) to execute this complication. Patek Philippe’s serially produced perpetual calendar models (such as references 1526 and 2497, or chronograph references 1518 and 2499) were exclusively manual. Introduced in 1962, the ref. 3448 was the manufacture’s ’s first self-winding perpetual calendar wristwatch.
A landmark model in the history of Patek Philippe, ref. 3448 remained one of the very few complicated models which Patek Philippe kept producing even during the quartz crisis of the 1970s; it was in fact made from 1961 to 1981 when it was retired in favour of its sibling ref. 3450. Launched in 1981, ref. 3450 was aesthetically very similar to ref. 3448, but features a leap year indication on the dial.
The “Padellone” as the Italian collectors jokingly and lovingly dubbed it due to its oversized 37.5 mm diameter case with clean, angular lines is known in four main series (though other out-of- series variations such as the “upside down date ring” variation are known):
PATEK PHILIPPE A very rare and well‐preserved white gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with moonphases indication, original certificate and hang tags
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 1973
Reference No. 3448
Movement No. 1’119’278
Case No. 330’625
Model Name “Padellone”
Material 18K white gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 27-460, 37 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions 37.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 500,000-1,000,000
$508,000-1,020,000
€513,000-1,030,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Identity and Guarantee of Origin dated January 15, 1975, Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives and two hang tags.
- The first series features small calendar ring, indexes closer to the center of the dial and engraved/enameled minute divisions
- The second series introduces beady minute divisions
- The third series - exemplified by the present timepiecemaintains the beady divisions but introduces the large numerals for the date rings and indexes closer to the outer edge of the dial
-The fourth series features printed minute divisions.
With an estimated total production of 586 examples, ref. 3448 is indeed a very rare find. Mostly encased in yellow gold (around 450 examples estimated), the white gold version is much scarcer. The total white gold output is estimated at about 130 pieces, making the presence of this watch in the auction an occasion to be fêted!
Presented in excellent condition and recently serviced at Patek Philippe, the watch hasn’t been worn since, retaining the intact service sticker on the caseback. The present model distinguishes itself not only for its remarkable condition, but most notably for the presence of its original Certificate, greatly amplifying its collectability.
The “1518” has been a reference point for high-end Patek Philippe collectors since the very beginning of the field. Its status has only strengthened in recent years, thanks to the knowledge about important timepieces becoming more and more widespread. Any watch enthusiast today knows that it is the first perpetual calendar/chronograph made in series by the company, that it is incredibly scarce (with a total production of 281 pieces) and that if owning a yellow gold version is an aspirational dream for most people, variations in different metals are, without exaggerating, stellar timepieces. Only the most dedicated collectors - often after years or even decades of efforts - manage to make their way into the “pink 1518” club, given the fact that at any given time it can count a few dozens members at most.
Manufacturer
PATEK
collectible, highly important and
Reference No. 1518
Movement No. 867’364
Case No. 652’366
Material 18K pink gold
Calibre Manual, cal. 13’’’, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Lizard
Clasp/Buckle 18K pink gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions 35mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 800,000-1,600,000
$813,000-1,630,000
€821,000-1,640,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe
The present timepiece is indeed a representative of this rarefied category, as it bears indeed a pink gold case, furthermore preserved in stellar condition. Not only it retains its original “blank” crown (while service replacements bear the Calatrava cross); the lugs are as full as the connoisseur would expect, the pinholes for removing the bars are well defined and do not present rounding to their edges and the satin finish to the band is wonderfully preserved. Most notably, the hallmark found on the band of the watch - a location obviously very sensitive to polishing - is incredibly crisp and deep, testament to the superior condition of this case.
from the
The dial features a subtle but important peculiarity: it is fully engraved/enameled. This is not always the case, as it is quite common to find dials with most of the graphics enameled, but the outer scale printed - and obviously cost-conscious solution, which allows at the same time less labor on a single dial, and the possibility of having “simple” engraved dial which can be stamped with the appropriate scale as needed. In this instance, instead, the tachymeter scale is also engraved enameled, making this dial much more rare and important than its peers with printed scale, and also much more costly to produce in the first place.
It is furthermore highlighted by its superb condition, featuring its original engraved/enamel graphics. A detail which will impress the most jaded connoisseur is that day, month and moon discs are the original 1940s one, all the three of them bearing the full movement number engraved to the back. This is just a little short of miraculous as it is common occurrence on such models to find at least one of them changed with a service one, as it was a standard Patek Philippe procedure during service.
From a provenance point of view the watch does not disappoint either. It has been residing in one of the world’s most important collection since the last time it appeared at public auction in 2005, nearly 20 years ago, and it had previously appeared on the market - of course in the same
configuration - also in 1991 and 1990. This allows us to pinpoint its location over the course of the past 32 years and cements its status as one of the most studied and appreciated pink gold examples of the reference. Highlighting the “ultimate watch” status of the pink 1518, it is worth noting that a sibling of this watch, with case and movement numbers only 1 digits away from the present example, was sold by Phillips at our inaugural Geneva Watch Auction 1 sale and it now resides in the OAK collection, one of the most important vintage Patek Philippe collections in the world.
The iconic 1518 has always been considered a stellar timepiece, but in recent times its monumental collectability and importance has being truly understood and its status as Ultimate Grail unarguably recognised by the collector’s community.
PATEK PHILIPPE A rare, unusual and most probably unique yellow gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phases, integrated bracelet and lugs, and "inversed" date ring
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 1972
Reference No. 3448/4
Movement No. 1’119’258
Case No. 330’592
Model Name Padellone
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 27-460Q, 37 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K yellow gold bracelet signed Patek Philippe, measuring 200m max
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Patek Philippe folding clasp
Dimensions 37.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 100,000-200,000
$102,000-203,000
€103,000-205,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming date of manufacture of the present watch in 1972 with yellow gold bracelet and its subsequent sale on October 16, 1972.
the fact that the present model has both makes it truly unique as it is the only one known in this configuration. The bracelet is stamped JPE for Jean-Pierre Ecoffey the famed bracelet maker.
Reference 3448 was launched in 1962 and made in yellow, white and pink gold for a total of only 586 pieces. The movement beating inside this landmark model is based on one of the greatest automatic calibers of all time: cal. 27-460, which is the final evolution of cal. 12-600 (the one powering ref. 2526).
This reference was made in four different series that can be determined as such:
- The first series features small calendar ring, indexes closer to the center of the dial and engraved/enameled minute divisions.
- The second series introduces beady minute divisions.
- The third series - exemplified by the present timepiece, maintains the beady divisions but introduces the large numerals for the date rings and indexes closer to the outer edge of the dial.
- The fourth series features printed minute divisions.
The present Patek Philippe reference 3448/4 has the particularity of having both an integrated bracelet and lugs giving it incredible visual appeal. Habitually these models either came with an integrated bracelet without lugs or vice versa,
The present example from 1972 features a very early Third Series dial featuring a very rare peculiarity: the lower half of the date ring presents upside-down numerals. This design is more harmonic but less legible so it was soon abandoned. It can be found on a few pieces made around 1971-73.
The present reference 3448/4 is in overall excellent condition with a strong case and flawless dial.
PATEK PHILIPPE
A so far unique, early, extremely collectible and highly refined pink gold splitsecond chronograph wristwatch with confirmed champagne dial
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 1940
Reference No. 1436
Movement No. 862’423
Case No. 623’832
Material 18K pink gold
Calibre Manual, cal. 13’’’, 25 jewels, stamped with the Geneva Seal
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K pink gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions 33mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 200,000-400,000
$208,000-416,000
€208,000-416,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch with champagne-colored dial, pink gold markers and tachometer scale in 1940 and its subsequent sale on August 19, 1941. Furthermore delivered with Habsburg, Feldman Certificate of Authenticity dated October 15, 1989.
Reference 1436 is one of the most elegant, rare, important and collectible vintage Patek Philippe models. Shortly after the launch of the chronograph reference 130 in 1934, the company noticed that a split-second version had a potential market. Indeed, the “rattrappante” mechanism was particularly useful for technical purposes, such as timing horse, automobile races, as well measuring scientific experiments. Thus, in 1938 the firm introduced ref. 1436, to the day considered one of the most refined models ever produced by the firm. Not only it represents an ineffable merging of design and technical proficiency, it is furthermore one of the scarcest models made by the firm. Given the difficulty of assembling a split-second movement, research suggests that the total output for the model is approximately 140 examples, produced throughout the reference’s approximate 33 years of manufacture. That means an average of 4 watches per year. This is an exceedingly limited number, even by the production standards of the midto-late 20th century.
If any 1436 is a very rare bird - and a jewel in any collection - pink gold examples, as it often happens with Patek Philippe vintage models, are in a league of their own. Research confirms that so far only 8 examples of this exotic variation are known.
To own one of the 8 pink gold 1436 is considered by some one of the crowning achievements of their collecting career, however, as incredible as it sounds, the present piece is a tall step above a “standard” pink gold 1436. It in fact bears an incredibly unusual champagne dial. Incredibly attractive but nearly inexplicable on a pink gold watch (in fact this is one of the extremely scarce vintage PP watches, if not the only one, to bear such a combination), the first impression of the Phillips office was that this was a very attractive but later dial. This however turned out to be the complete opposite of the truth, as the Extract from the Archives incredibly confirms that the watch was born exactly in this configuration.
Such pink case/champagne dial configuration - not virtually unique in the entire panorama of vintage Patek pieces, but furthermore fully confirmed buy the company - makes the present piece one of the most collectible, unusual and fascinating chronograph pieces ever produced by the firm.
Last appeared - of course in this very configuration - on the public market in 1989, the watch has resided in the same collection for the past 33 years. In fact, it is also accompanied by the 1989 Habsburg, Feldman (the auction house who sold it) certificate bearing a period picture of the watch, and an “estimate” of 380’000 CHF, most likely a rounding up of the sale result of 358’250 CHF - a truly outstanding price for the time, highlighting how this unique example of a 1436 was recognised to be an “ultimate” piece already back then.
Manufacturer Rolex
Year 2005
Reference No. 116509
Movement No. C’0159’864
Case No. D’162’845
Model Name Cosmograph Daytona
Material 18K white gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 4130, 44 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K white gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 175mm
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Rolex Oyster deployant clasp
Dimensions 40mm diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 40,000-80,000
$40,700-81,300
€41,000-82,100
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex guarantee stamped Emperor Watch & Jewellery Hong Kong dated October 03rd, 2005, International Service Guarantee, green leather portfolio, hang tag, fitted presentation box and outer packaging.
Cased in white gold, reference 116509 is most notably fitted with Rolex's in-house movement and a white gold bracelet. It houses the caliber 4130, which was an upgrade from the previous Zenith-based chronograph movement.
The present watch is a perfect illustration of Rolex's innovative and avant-garde approach in using natural hardstone as new dial material. Preserved in excellent and impressive condition, this example is most notably fitted with a blue sodalite dial that does not display any cracks of any kind. Most sodalite examples today have fissures on the dial due to its delicate nature, however this example is intact and smooth throughout. Rolex is particularly imaginative and innovative in its use of hard stone, and the present timepiece is no exception. It furthermore displays hands without luminous material, which is correct for this model. Most notably, it displays Arabic numerals which are rarer to come by than their diamond-set counterparts, along with a white gold bracelet which is equally rare. Preserved in excellent condition, the case displays all hallmarks and Rolex markings.
Furthermore, the present timepiece is offered with its original guarantee and presentation box.
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1956
Reference No. 6234
Case No. 166’678
Model Name Oyster Chronograph
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, cal.72 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Original Rolex leather strap
Clasp/Buckle Gold plated Rolex buckle
Dimensions 36mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 60,000-120,000
$61,000-122,000
€61,600-123,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex presentation box and original green sticker.
Production of reference 6234 was extremely limited. Since the reference’s launch in 1955, approximately 2300 examples were produced in stainless steel. In contrast, scholars theorize that less than 150 examples were cased in 14K or 18K yellow gold. The reference ceased production after approximately six years of manufacture, replaced by reference 6238.
A virtual time capsule, the present example is distinguished by its impressive state of preservation and shows barely any signs of aging. The case features sharp factory finishes to the top of the lugs and the case back. The edges are crisp and visible, and the hallmarks beneath the lugs are very deep. Even more impressive are the numbers between the lugs, which are clear even without the aid of a loupe. The “no lume” dial is preserved in excellent condition as well, with barely any signs of aging. The printing on the ivory dial remains clear and visible and free of mottling. As an even nicer touch, the watch is accompanied by not only its original strap, but original presentation box with the factory sticker still present inside the box.
ROLEX An impressive and extremely well-preserved stainless steel wristwatch with center seconds, black lacquer dial and bracelet
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1958
Reference No. 6536/1
Movement No. N809895
Case No. 398’594
Model Name Submariner “Small Crown”
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 1030, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster riveted bracelet stamped “80” and “7205” to the endlinks, max length 205mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped “3 66” Dimensions 37.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 50,000-100,000
$50,800-102,000
€51,300-103,000
Introduced in 1955, reference 6536/1 replaced reference 6536 and remained in production until 1959. Today, it is one of the most sought-after vintage Submariner references due to its design and modern proportions. With a diameter of 37.5 millimeters, it sits perfectly on the wrist.
The present example is stunningly and impressively preserved and displays large, crisp bevels and strong proportions. The dial is in equally impressive condition with its strong gilt print. Mirror-like and incredibly glossy, it is a sight to behold, despite its age.
Its overall rarity and impeccable condition make the present Submariner a trophy for the connoisseur of rare timepieces.
ROLEX
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1953
Reference No. 6305
Movement No. 83’574
Case No. 948’357
Model Name Datejust "Ovettone"
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 775, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Gold plated Rolex buckle
Dimensions 36mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 20,000-40,000
$20,300-40,700
€20,500-41,000
Displaying a reeded bezel, reference 6305 is nicknamed “Ovettone” due to the likeness of its rounded case to an egg. This beautiful yellow gold “Ovettone” is preserved in excellent condition with an arresting lacquer dial. Displaying a stunning mirror-like finish, the dial features three lines of script bearing “Chronometer Officially Certified “at 6 o’clock. This configuration is extremely rare as most dials display “Officially Certified Chronometer” in two lines. It is incredibly rare to discover a black lacquer dial in such impressive condition, no less with such a singular appearance. Furthermore, the luminous dots are still visible and have aged with warm patina. The timepiece even retains its original black and red date wheel.
Preserved in excellent condition, this yellow gold Datejust displays crisp finishes on the top of the lugs, as well as a sharp hallmark beneath the lug. This timepiece even retains its original Super Oyster crown.
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1995
Reference No. 16599
Movement No. 192’972
Case No. W057366
Model Name Cosmograph Daytona
Material 18K white gold, diamond and sapphire-set
Calibre Automatic, cal. 4030, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Rolex alligator strap
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Rolex deployant clasp stamped “16519” and “X”
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 100,000-200,000 ∑
$102,000-203,000
€103,000-205,000
Bejeweled timepieces have historically been relegated to the compartment of ladies’ pieces, and consequently for most of the past century they were small, refined creations. Virtually no watchmaking company produced gentlemen pieces with diamond set cases. At most, we can find refined tuxedo creations with white cases and subtle diamond-set markers. Rolex was in fact one of the first to break the taboo and fit a professional watch with gems: in the 1980s, they produced two
extremely limited series of diamond-set Daytona: reference 6269 and reference 6270 - both series thought to be a commission from the Sultan of Oman.
In the 1990s they decided to keep on experimenting with gem-set pieces, with reference 16599 being one of their most appealing and collectible results. Sporting hooded, gem-set lugs, a completely diamond pavé dial with sapphire markers, and bezel set with 36 baguette-cut sapphires, the timepiece is a hymn to exclusivity and craftsmanship.
The 1990s, however, were still the “dawn of collecting” intended in the modern sense, and the public had yet to recognise the importance and appeal of this kind of timepieces. This, combined with the hefty price tag of the items, resulted in an absurdly limited output for such objects. It is speculated that about 5 pieces such as the present watch ever left Rolex’s workshop.
Having resided in an important Italian collection since the late 1990s, the present watch is offered in unpolished condition. This W example is one of the earliest specimen of the reference to be produced, and as such it correctly features silver subsidiary counters, instead of the golden ones sometimes found on late production pieces. A final details which will appeal to the purist collector, is the presence of the green Rolex sticker to the back. While mostly faded, the reference number 16599 is still unmistakably distinguishable.
Paul Newman dials are considered grails amongst Cosmograph Daytona collectors but the highest echelon of this rarified category is the “Lemon”, which displays a classification of traits that is rarely ever seen and consequently, singularly coveted.
What differentiates a “Lemon” Paul Newman Daytona from the more commonly found champagne-dial Paul Newman Daytona?
The devil is in the details, and the details are in the dial. To be considered a “Lemon” Paul Newman, the main dial must have a matte-finished, grené, or grained, texture with an almost powdery effect with a more cream yellow color than a metallic gold or champagne. Compared with the yellow main dial on the champagne Paul Newman Daytonas, the “Lemon” dials feature an intense shade of yellow that sets them apart.
The most distinctive feature can be found on the subdials of the “Lemon”. Instead of matching the gilt printing found on the black outer track, they have vivid, white printed Art Deco numerals – a coveted characteristic immediately spotted by those who know. Overall, the combination of the creamy yellow dial and stark, white subdial numerals is quite striking –especially when paired with a black outer track.
The dial on the present example is striking, not just thanks to its excellent state of preservation but especially thanks to the fact that the subdials are turning to a dark brown and the outer track has turned to a seductive light brown giving the watch incredible charisma.
ROLEX An extraordinarily rare, extremely attractive, and important yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with “Paul Newman Lemon” dial brown “tropical” subsidiary registers and outer track and service papers
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1970
Reference No. 6264, inside caseback stamped 6241
Case No. 2’357’419
Model Name Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman - Lemon”
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, endlinks stamped 71, measuring 200mm max.
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp ref 7205, further stamped J10.
Dimensions 37.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 550,000-1,100,000 $559,000-1,120,000 €564,000-1,130,000
Accessories
Accompanied by a series of Rolex service guarantee papers and invoices between 1997 and 2010.
Literature
An example of a reference 6264 with “Lemon” dial is illustrated and catalogued in John Goldberger’s 100 Superlative Rolex Watches, pp. 254-255.
The present watch retains its original Mark I bezel, with inner caseback stamped 6241. To add to its authenticity, most of the Rolex Daytona Paul Newman’s with so-called “Lemon” dials in 18K yellow gold appear in the same serial number range as the one being offered here, beginning with 2’357’XXX, and the current example is within 60 digits of “El Limoncito”, sold by Phillips New York in June 2022 for over $2,000,000.
The present “Paul Newman Lemon” is accompanied by a series of Rolex service guarantees and invoices from 1997 to 2010 demonstrating that the manufacture gave this piece their internal blessing.
A grail among grails the present reference 6264 “Paul Newman Lemon” with tropical dial offers a perfect storm of highly appealing traits which propels the present timepiece to the pinnacle of desirability for the connoisseur of highly important and attractive timepieces.
Ref. 6264 Cosmograph Daytona Paul Newman "Lemon"ROLEX A highly rare and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with Paul Newman, MK1 “Oyster Sotto” dial and bracelet
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1969
Reference No. 6263 inside case back stamped 6239
Case No. 2’197’880
Model Name Cosmograph Daytona “Oyster Sotto”
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, end links stamped 71N, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 2.68
Dimensions 37.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 400,000-800,000
$407,000-813,000
€410,000-821,000
The most unattainable and sought-after variant of all Paul Newman wristwatches is unequivocally the “Oyster Sotto Paul Newman”. Scholars estimate that less than 25 examples have appeared and no more than a handful have been sold at auction thus far.
The moniker “Oyster Sotto”, meaning “Oyster Underneath” in Italian, signifies the correct dial configuration of a reference 6263 “Paul Newman” fitted with a black dial. A correct one
displays “Rolex Cosmograph Oyster” rather than “Rolex Oyster Cosmograph”, the latter of which is the correct configuration of a “Paul Newman” with white dial. “Oyster Sotto” dials were fitted to the earliest 6263s, the “Oyster” designation referring to the model’s water-resistant screw-down pushers.
The present watch is classified as a late Mk 1 variant with a serial number of 2’197’880. It features a “small R” in Rolex and ever so slightly slanted ‘H’ in “Cosmograph”. Furthermore, the “Oyster” designation does not have serifs. These dials were originally fitted to non-waterproof references 6262 or 6264, which bore “Rolex Cosmograph”. The “Oyster” inscription was thus added to the dial after by Rolex, to denote reference 6263’s waterproof ability. The present watch shows all the correct features one would expect. Most interestingly, hard horological collectors may notice that the top and bottom of “S” in Oyster is ever so slightly thinner. Considering all the correct features of the watch, one can surmise it was done by human error during the stamping of the “Oyster” of the case. Other correct features of this watch are the first generation ‘millerighe’ pushers, the 5-point Rolex crown that displays only the coronet and the Mk 1 bezel. Even the bracelet is correct, with 71N end links and being stamped for the second quarter of 1968.
It is not an overstatement to say that the present specimen not only is a new discovery, but also a true “Crown Jewel” for all collectors of highly important timepieces.
Ref. 6263 Cosmograph Daytona "Oyster Sotto"Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1967
Reference No. 6239
Case No. 1’626’428
Model Name Cosmograph Daytona
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Manual, cal. 722-1, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions 36.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 50,000-100,000
$50,800-102,000
€51,300-103,000
Accessories
Accompanied by two Rolex guarantees, product literature and presentation box.
The present watch is a stunning example of reference 6239. Launched in 1963, reference 6239 was cased mostly in stainless steel. Early examples did not display the “Daytona” signature on the dial. It was only later that the manufacture experimented with the dial design, and printed Daytona in various positions to celebrate Rolex’s sponsorship of the famed Nascar Stock Car race in Daytona Beach, Florida. The very first “Cosmograph” wristwatch, reference 6239 most notably featured the tachymeter scale on the bezel, unlike its predecessors reference 6238 or 6234 which featured the tachymeter scale on the dial.
The present example features the “Daytona” text above the subsidiary register at 6 o’clock. Most notably, the subsidiary registers have aged to a particularly even and stunning brown tone, contrasting against the bold and unblemished white graphics. The dial also displays luminous dots that have aged with light patina.
As an even nicer touch, the present watch is accompanied by two Rolex guarantees, product literature and presentation box.
Ref.Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1936
Reference No. 2508
Case No. 25’330
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Manual, cal. 22, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Alligator
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex pin buckle
Dimensions 37.2mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 70,000-140,000 ∑
$71,200-142,000
€71,800-144,000
Provenance
Antiquorum Geneva, The Mondani Collection of Rolex Wristwatches, May 14, 2006, lot 86.
Originally launched in the mid 1930s, reference 2508 most notably sports a large, masculine case with a classic “Calatrava” design. It is amongst the most attractive chronograph models by any brand from this formative era of wristwatch design.
The present watch is a remarkable example of the reference not only in virtue of its condition - most notably of the absolutely unrestored dial - but especially due to the presence of Turin retailer Astrua’s signature on the dial. Co-signed dials are as rare as they are collectible, a precious window into the past of the company - as nowadays Rolex does not produce co-signed timepieces anymore.
Even without the Astrua signature, however, the dial of this specimen exudes charm, also thanks to its complicated architecture. It features an outer telemeter scale and an inner spiral tachymeter case, large hour markers and an additional scale with Arabic five-minute combined with baton fifth-of-asecond divisions (typical of the time). Furthermore, one can find three different types of finishing on it: the centre and outer track of the dial are silvered brushed, the fifth-of-a-second scale lays on a track with a grené finish, and a thin bronze metallic track separates it from the telemeter scale.
Reference 2508 can be categorized into two different generations, the first one boasting a large 37.2mm case fitted with oval pushers – as found on the present example. The second generation was slightly smaller measuring at 35.2mm and was fitted with rectangular pushers.
The 2mm difference in diameter may appear small, but the impact on the wrist is impressive. Scholarship tells us that only a very small number of these first generation watches were made. It is amazing to see how a more than 80-year-old chronograph wristwatch can be as timeless and contemporary today as it was when first launched.
A sporty yet elegant gentleman’s watch, the design of reference 2508 - especially the first generation - is more modern compared to other earlier Rolex chronograph watches, making it nowadays a favourite of Rolex collectors.
165.
AUDEMARS PIGUET A highly rare and attractive titanium chronograph wristwatch, numbered
07 of a limited edition of 50 pieces, made for Chronopassion
Manufacturer Audemars Piguet
Year 2008
Reference No. 26185TI
Calibre
Bracelet/Strap
Clasp/Buckle
Estimate
CHF 12,000-18,000
$12,200-18,300
€12,300-18,500
This titanium Royal Oak Offshore was launched over ten years ago as a 50 piece limited edition made specially for iconic Parisian retailer Chronopassion whose owner, Laurent Picciotto has always had an acute eye for bold and audacious designs.
The present example, bearing the limited edition number 07/50 features a surprising and graphic micro-blasted titanium case that gives it an incomparable texture that perfectly frames the dark grey dial and large Arabic numerals giving the watch a notable masculine look.
166.
PATEK PHILIPPE A rare, fine, and oversized white gold cushion-shaped electronic wristwatch with center seconds and date
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 1973
Reference No. 3597
Movement No. 6’141
Case No. 2’720’501
Model Name Beta 21
Material 18K white gold
Calibre Electroquartz, cal. CEH Beta-21, 13 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Alligator
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions 43mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate
CHF 20,000-40,000 ∑
$20,300-40,700
€20,500-41,000
Accessories
With Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1973 and its subsequent sale on 28th June 1973, and servicing receipt documents.
The quartz crisis of the late 1960's and 1970's, alongside the development of inexpensive and accurate quartz movements from Japan, posed as a magnified threat and catalyst to the traditional Swiss watchmaking. As a response, Patek Philippe, Rolex, Omega, and Piaget, began researching themselves quartz movements during the years of this "reform" and formed the Centre Electronique Horloger (CEH) in 1962.
In 1969, after strenuous research, the CEH released the Beta21 movement, which delivered unprecedented accuracy with just five seconds deviation per month. The partnering brands further agreed to limit the production to six thousand Beta-21 movements for the group to share. Patek Philippe went on to further develop and alter the Beta 21 movement, reducing its oscillation rate from 8192 Hz to 256 Hz, through the means of a frequency reducer.
Introduced in 1973, Patek Philippe's reference 3597 was the Maison's second quartz wristwatch and the company's largest diameter wristwatch, measuring an outstanding and imposing 43mm in diameter. The present timepiece from 1973, as confirmed from the Extract, represent, and testifies for Patek Philippe's capacity to remain modern and adapt to fast changing technologies.
With a large cushion-shaped case, and screw-down caseback, the present timepiece has a very modern and futuristic vibe to it. Quite noticeable and present on one's wrist, the timepiece is extremely legible thanks to its gleaming deep blue dial with luminous hour markers and hands.
Presented in delightful and excellent overall condition, this timepiece from 1973 represents a unique moment in history, a period of great radical changes, from politics to fashion - making it a unique opportunity for any serious historian and collector.
ROLEX An early, very well-preserved and immensely attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with chestnut-colored “tropical” dial and bracelet
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1972
Reference No. 6263
Case No. 2’805’126
Model Name Cosmograph Daytona
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “557B” and “78350 19” to the endlinks, max length 205mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped “MA3 78350”
Dimensions 37.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 80,000-160,000
$81,300-163,000
€82,100-164,000
In 1969, Rolex simultaneously launched references 6263 and 6265, the “intellectual offsprings” of the first Oyster Cosmograph - Model 6240 discontinued in 1969. The Cosmograph Daytona with screw-down pushers was in production for almost 20 years and was offered in either stainless steel or gold.
The present reference 6263 displays a stunning dial that has turned a beautiful rich chestnut “tropical” tone with age, and is distinguished by its impressive state of preservation. There is no telling how a tropical dial will turn, and this examples displays a richly saturated milk chocolate tone, with a darker shade in places granting it a somewhat “dégradé” effect. The luminous dots are furthermore preserved in excellent condition, round and without losses. The case as well is in remarkable condition, with incredibly crisp edges and full lugs.
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1970
Reference No. 5100
Movement No. 7314
Case No. 780
Model Name " Beta 21"
Material 18K white gold and diamonds
Calibre Quartz Beta 21
Bracelet/Strap 18K white gold Rolex bracelet, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions 39mm Width
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 35,000-70,000
$35,600-71,200
€35,900-71,800
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex service guarantee.
The Beta 21 movement was first created in 1969 and made its debut during Basel later that year. As the highest quality quartz movement to be offered on the market, it was accurate to 5 seconds per month. Due to the movement’s large and bulky size, watchmakers soon developed their own in house movements.
The reference 5100 is a landmark model for a number of reasons. Launched in 1970, it was Rolex’s first reference fitted with a quartz movement. Rolex first produced 1000 units to test the ‘Beta 21’, and all examples were sold out before the watch even hit the market. The ‘Beta 21’ was also Rolex’s first reference to feature a sapphire crystal and quick set date function – two key innovations and components that are used in Rolex’s current line of production.
Cased in white gold, the present watch is already exceedingly rarer compared to its siblings cased in yellow gold. To date, no more than a few handful of white gold examples have ever graced the auction market. This is compounded by the fact that the dial is set with diamond markers, rendering it possibly unique. To date, the market has not seen any other examples with such a dial configuration.
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 2008
Reference No. 5711G
Movement No. 3’644’855
Case No. 4’460’997
Model Name Nautilus “Jumbo”
Material 18K white gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 324 SC, 29 rubies, stamped with the Geneva seal
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions 42.5mm width
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 35,000-70,000 ∑
$35,600-71,200
€35,900-71,800
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificat d’Origine stamped by USA retailer Wixon Jewelers and dated May 29, 2009, two additional Patek Philippe leather straps, one in mint condition the other one worn, product literature, leather wallet, fitted presentation box and outer packaging. Further delivered with Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in slate-grey ribbed dial in 2008 and its subsequent sale on September 3rd, 2008.
Reference 5711 in white gold is the “evening version” of what can be defined as one of the most - if not the most - collectible sports watch on the current market. This dressier version is highlighted by a leather strap rather than the usual metal bracelet, furthermore fitted with a special “Nautilus” clasp.
Already a staple of the most distinguished collections worldwide, reference 5711 has enjoyed even more attention since the discontinuation of the reference in stainless steel.
Preserved in excellent condition, the watch is furthermore accompanied by its Certificate of Origin, wallet, presentation box and outer packaging.
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 1987
Reference No. 3800/3
Movement No. 1’426’159
Case No. 2’819’649
Model Name Nautilus
Material Platinum and diamonds
Calibre Automatic, cal. 335, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Platinum Patek Philippe bracelet, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions 37.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 80,000-160,000
$81,300-163,000
€82,100-164,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Villiger Invoice Receipt dated 2nd December 2019 and Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch with matte black dial and 11 diamonds hour markers and an overall total count of 40 diamonds 1987 and its subsequent sale on 24 July 1987.
Patek Philippe introduced the mid-size reference 3800, with a reduced diameter of 37.5mm in 1981. The reference 3800 was offered with greater dial and material configurations compared to the ref 3700; it is estimated by scholars that there were approximately 20 different dial/case variations for the model.
Extremely fashionable and rare, the present timepiece showcases beautifully set diamonds on the dial instead of baton indexes. To further add to its elegance and refinement, the watch was further adorned with a single row of diamonds on the bezel.
Another interesting aspect to note from this exceptionally rare 3800 is its date disk. There were two different colors of date discs in use throughout the production: a black disk with white numerals, and a white one with black numerals. Research has shown that black disks with white numerals were exclusively used in very early stages of production. A transition was made around the 90's with white disks and black numerals with the black disks seemingly disappearing from production.
Most importantly, the present timepiece is cased in platinum, an extremely rare and infrequent case used for the reference 3800 collection, with 16 examples known like the present watch. The three most seen metal types from the collection where yellow gold, stainless steel and two-tone. Preserved in excellent overall condition, the present timepiece truly embodies the meaning of the word "rare" - its allure, charm and compact size make the present timepiece an excellent companion that can be dressed up or down.
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 2009
Reference No. 5971P
Movement No. 3’931’397
Case No. 4’493’095
Material Platinum and diamonds
Calibre Manual, cal. 27-70Q, 24 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Alligator
Clasp/Buckle Platinum and diamond-set Patek Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 180,000-360,000 ∑
$183,000-366,000
€185,000-369,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch with white dial, 1 baguette cut and 6 white gold chaton set diamond hour markers in 2009 and that the original dial was replaced by the above in Patek Philippe’s workshops in 2011.
In production from 2007 until 2010, reference 5971 is the diamond-set version of reference 5970 - the very last perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch series to use a Lemania 2310 based movement before the introduction of reference 5270. Dazzling and eye-catching, it is an incredibly iconic model that showcases Patek Philippe’s skill in merging gem-setting with haute horlogerie.
Due to its generous and modern case proportions, this reference is a favorite among the watch community, and has increased in popularity and collectability over time. The bezel is notably set with top-grade diamonds, totaling approximately 4.37 carats.
The present watch is an exceedingly rare example fitted with a silvered white dial, which is confirmed by the Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives and also noted as being fitted in Patek Philippe’s workshops in 2011. Given that the present watch is the only known reference 5971P with this dial, one can only surmise that the request was granted to one of Patek Philippe’s best and most distinguished clients.
Manufacturer
Reference No. 116519
2002
Movement No. C0095260
Case No. Y401865
Model Name Cosmograph Daytona “Beach”
Material 18K white gold and chrysoprase
Calibre Automatic, cal. 4130, 44 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Lizard
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 20,000-40,000 ∑
$20,300-40,700
€20,500-41,000
For a very short time in the early 2000s, Rolex produced one of the most surprising, attractive and unusual variations of the Cosmograph Daytona: the so-called “Daytona Beach”. It was released in four different colors. As it often happens with many appreciated models in Rolex’s rich history, these pieces were originally regarded with a mix of surprise and amazement to their iconoclastic looks, but not much warmth. Only in recent years their undisputed beauty has been truly rediscovered and appreciated, making them not only one of the most collectible modern Daytona models, but also one of the most wearable indeed due to their carefree and playful appeal. Once again, Rolex proved themselves not only capable of anticipating fashion trends, but also brave enough to actually put such daring ideas to the test of the market. Such a situation will be repeated with uncanny similarity, about a decade and a half later, when the House introduced the “Rainbow” Daytona.
The present dial is fitted with a stunning green hard stone dial known as chrysoprase. Preserved in excellent condition, the watch displays crisp hallmarks and barely any signs of wear.
Manufacturer Rolex
2022
Reference No. 128348RBR
Case No. 42X518R0
Model Name Day-Date “Rainbow”
Material 18K yellow gold, diamonds and sapphires
Calibre Automatic, cal. 3255, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K yellow gold Rolex President bracelet, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions 36mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 30,000-50,000
$30,500-50,800
€30,800-51,300
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex guarantee dated January 6, 2022, product literature, wallet, presentation box and outer packaging.
Launched in 1956, the Rolex Day-Date is one of the most recognizable and versatile wristwatches available in the market.
It is a model that can be worn by both men and women, and over its 60 year history has been produced in a number of variations. Ever glamorous, the Day-Date model delights with its myriad of dials, bracelets, bezels and gold-finished designs.
Apart from prototype models, the Day-Date has only been cased in precious metals, attesting to its glamor and prestige.
The present Day-Date “Rainbow” was first launched in 2019, recalling vintage Rainbow Day-Dates, as well as the hallowed Rainbow Daytona. This watch most notably displays a “Rainbow”-like dial set with diamonds and gemstones that graduate in hue to mimic the color spectrum. The tones range from a vibrant and intense deep red, and slowly morph into orange, chartreuse, green and blue. Delivered in January 2022, the present watch is in like-new condition and still retains its original stickers.
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1967
Reference No. 6239
Case No. 1’627’025
Model Name Cosmograph Daytona “Cherry Logo”
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Manual, cal. 722-1, 17 jewels, stamped ROW
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster riveted bracelet stamped “57” and “7205” to the endlinks, max length 205mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped “2 71”
Dimensions 36.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 60,000-120,000
$61,000-122,000
€61,600-123,000
Officially launched in 1963, Rolex’s reference 6239 influenced and inspired generations of collectors across the globe, certainly redefining Rolex’s name within the watchmaking industry. Marked as the first Rolex Cosmograph Daytona, reference 6239 was originally named the “Le Mans”. However, as Rolex wanted to enter the American market, it started
officially sponsoring and being the official timekeeper for the Daytona racetrack in 1962. Rolex then renamed the new Cosmograph “Daytona” that same year to further emphasize their relationship with the race track and its drivers.
Throughout the years scholars and collectors have been able to categorize the reference in batches, each one with small variations from the previous and the latter. The present example from circa 1967 showcases a Mark II bezelrecognizable from the bezel scaling up still to 300, however without the 275 hash marks between 300 and 250 - this batch of bezels was produced just up to 1967.
The present watch most notably displays an attractive “Cherry Logo” dial - referring to the light red “Daytona” inscription placed on top of the 6 o’clock subdial. It is estimated that not many “Cherry” dials were produced and the present reference was the first ever model to showcase this particular red Daytona inscription.
In excellent overall condition, the present reference 6239 with “Cherry Logo” dial and Mark II bezel is a true testament of how Rolex delivered exceptional and reliable tools made to withstand the test of time and ever changing fashions. This lot represents a unique opportunity to capture the true essence and core of what Rolex stands and stood for throughout the decades.
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 1984
Reference No. 3800/5
Movement No. 1’424’302
Case No. 2’811’221
Model Name Nautilus
Material 18K yellow gold and diamonds
Calibre Automatic, cal. 335SC, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K yellow gold and diamond-set Patek Philippe
bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions 37.5mm diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 80,000-160,000
$81,300-163,000
€82,100-164,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming its date of manufacture in 1984 and its subsequent sale on July 16th, 1985.
Launched in 1981, ref. 3800, featured a reduced diameter of 37.5mm. The reference 3800 also offered greater dial and material configurations. It is estimated by scholars that there were approximately 20 different dial/case variations for the model.
Another interesting aspect to note from this exceptionally rare 3800 is its date disk. There were two different colors of date discs in use throughout the production: a black disk with white numerals, and a white one with black numerals. Research has shown that black disks with white numerals were exclusively used in very early stages of production. A transition was made around the 90's with white disks and black numerals with the black disks seemingly disappearing from production.
To finally conclude and reiterate the rarity of the present timepiece one has to simply look at the dial carefully. Placed at 6 o'clock is the elusive "Asprey" signature of which only two are known. The first one being a ref. 3800/1 cased in a regular yellow gold case, and the second one being this very example, ref.3800/5, with 3 rows of diamonds on the bezel and three rows on the centre links.
Preserved in excellent overall condition, the present timepiece truly embodies the meaning of the word "rare" - its allure, charm and compact size make the present timepiece an excellent companion that can be dressed up or down, and can accompany you during the night for special occasions or for your day to day, making this an occasion that the most discerning and forwardlooking collector will unlikely miss out on.
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1969
Reference No. 6241
Case No. 1’991’886
Model Name Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman”
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Manual, cal. 722-1, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 210mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 3.70
Dimensions 37.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 150,000-300,000
$152,000-305,000
€154,000-308,000
Reference 6241 was produced approximately from 1966 to 1969. Scholars estimate that no more than 3000 pieces were produced during the model’s manufacture period, and only a small part of them with “Paul Newman” dials.
Fitted with a black dial and white outer register with red track, the present “Paul Newman” reference 6241 is an impressive specimen preserved in excellent condition. The dial is free of blemishes and the step between the outer track and main portion is distinct. The cherry-red “Daytona” designation is striking and pops out from the ebony background. The luminous dots are round, intact and display warm patina, and is incredibly well-preserved for its age.
Other details on this timepiece include the Mk 1 bezel, which is correct for reference 6241 and gives the watch a lot of presence on the wrist. The case features bold proportions and a crisp finish on the case back, making the present watch an incredibly collectible trophy.
Ref. 6241 Cosmograph Daytona "Paul Newman"Manufacturer Audemars Piguet
Year 2022
Reference No. 26579CB.OO.1225CB.01
Movement No. MT7429
Case No. GK1192J
Model Name Royal Oak Material White ceramic
Calibre Automatic, cal. 5134, 38 jewels
Bracelet/Strap White ceramic Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle White ceramic Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions 41mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 150,000-300,000
$152,000-305,000
€154,000-308,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Audemars Piguet rotating fitted box, Warranty, instruction booklet, product literature, hang tag, outer packaging.
We are delighted to offer the white Ceramic perpetual calendar, most probably one of the most elusive and sought after models made by Audemars Piguet in the past years.
Audemars Piguet has developed a groundbreaking tradition of experimenting with materials, whether by mixing different metals or by using novel materials such as alacrite 602 or forged carbon, to name a few.
In 2017 the brand launched - in a very bold move – a Royal Oak perpetual calendar in black ceramic (case and bracelet) followed by a white ceramic version in 2019, such as the present watch.
Audemars Piguet’s attention to detail on ceramic Royal Oaks is second to none in terms of comfort and aesthetics. The mirror-like edges on the bezel and links create a subtle yet sensational contrast to the evenly brushed finishes on the case and bracelet. According to the brand, their metal-like polished ceramic is not only unique, but this level of detail on such a tough material can only be achieved by meticulous hand finishing. The model houses an automatic calibre 5134 (inspired by the original cal. 2120), connecting its visual and technical complexity to its predecessors. Along with the traditional calendar functions, the present Royal Oak features a 52 week indication as well as a beautiful moon phase display- depicted by a photorealistic moon on an iridescent aventurine background.
In unworn condition, the present watch is offered with its full set of accessories.
Please note that all proceeds exceeding the cost for the consignor will be donated to charities supporting access to medical care for families in need and orphanages.
Manufacturer Audemars Piguet
Year 1994
Reference No. 25721ST
Movement No. 369’316
Case No. D23802, 059
Model Name Royal Oak Offshore “The Beast” “No Logo”
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 2126, 51 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 205mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Audemars Piguet double deployant clasp stamped “S10”
Dimensions 42mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 50,000-100,000
$50,800-102,000
€51,300-103,000
With a surprise move nearly as disruptive as the “original” one of 1972, at the 1993 Basel Watch Fair Audemars Piguet launched the Royal Oak Offshore reference 25721 as a reinvented extension of the brand’s classic Royal Oak. Impressive in its size,
the watch designed by Emmanuel Gueit measures a whopping 42mm diameter, stemming its rightful nickname “The Beast”.
Radical and contemporary in style, the watch gained popularity amongst the young generation and was famously worn on the wrist of Italy’s beloved athlete and alpine skiing legend, Alberto Tomba. The launch of reference 25721 marked the beginning of over-sized trend for sports watches.
Exuding a cool and masculine charm, “The Beast” was fitted with an ashen grey tapisserie dial with rugged blue accents. It normally features an engraved caseback featuring the “AP” symbol followed by the “Royal Oak Offshore” designation. The present example, however, is part of the restricted “No Logo” series. The first 100 examples produced feature a “tentative” engraving: the “AP” logo is missing (hence the nickname) together with the “Offshore” designation - leaving only the “Royal Oak” engraving as found on non-Offshore pieces.
Another more subtle difference with what is normally found on this reference is that the “Automatic” designation to the caseback, rather than being boldly stamped, in this instance features a much more subtle font.
Preserved in an overall excellent condition, the present piece boosts the importance of the first Royal Oak Offshore reference with its incredibly rare “No Logo” configuration.
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 2007
Reference No. 5800/1A-001
Movement No. 3’412’681
Case No. 4’383’024
Model Name Nautilus
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 330SC AIG, 30 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Patek Philippe bracelet, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Patek Philippe deployant clasp Dimensions 38mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 70,000-140,000
$71,200-142,000
€71,800-144,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated 15th March 2007, leather folio, additional links, fitted presentation box and outer packaging.
Patek Philippe reference 5800 was introduced in 2006 as the successor of the equally mid-sized reference 3800, and alongside the bigger brother reference 5711. It was produced for three short years in stainless steel with the classical “ridged” blue dial with horizontal grooves configuration. The timepiece showcases signature elements from the classical Nautilus design, most considerably the monobloc case construction with the interesting integrated sapphire case-back, the only modern reference known to have such addition.
The case measures 38mm in diameter and sits both comfortably and elegantly on most wrists. Such size can be ought to be a great balance between functional utility and refinement. The ridged blue dial has the everlasting design and looks of modern 5711’s. Extremely legible with the white applied baton indices and date aperture at 3 o’clock the timepiece can easily be dressed up or down according to the occasion.
The present timepiece is furthermore preserved in attractive overall condition, the dial has retained a strong deep blue color and shows no apparent signs of aging. Accompanied with its original certificate of origin, dating the timepiece to March 2007, the present lot is also accompanied with its original accessories and additional links.
Manufacturer Audemars Piguet
Year 2016
Reference No. 26574ST.OO.1220ST.02
Movement No. 958’429
Case No. I77474.0144
Model Name Royal Oak
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 5134/A804, 38 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Royal Oak bracelet measuring 190mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions 41mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 80,000-160,000
$81,300-163,000
€82,100-164,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Extract from the Register confirming the year of production to June 23rd, 2016, instruction manuals, fitted presentation box, watch winder and outer packaging.
Audemars Piguet’s reference 26574ST was originally introduced in 2015. Whilst probably unrecognizable at first glance, the present timepiece offered interesting variations
highly appreciated by today’s standards rendering this piece extremely sought after by modern collectors.
Quite revolutionary from the get-go, at 41mm the timepiece is sure to mark its presence on the wrist, however mainly in diameter and not in thickness. That is because Audemars Piguet developed and introduced for this model the all-new self-winding cal. 5134 which is based on non-other than the famous extra slim cal.2120 found on the original Royal Oak A series. Whilst the movement is indeed larger, fitting in the larger case, it remains relatively slim for greater ease of wear. Furthermore, the new caliber also had to offer an additional complication, a 52-week calendar indication.
The dial benefits from the enlarged case. The white lettering and indices, when contrasting against the brushed blued grandtapisserie dial render the timepiece extremely legible. The stunning moonphases indication, with its photorealistic moon and starry sky, sits both symmetrically and comfortably at 6 o’clock adding the final touch of marvelous to this remarkable timepiece.
In barely worn condition, with its deep blue dial and grand tapisserie this watch exudes elegance and finesse, definitely attracting even the most discerning of collectors.
AUDEMARS PIGUET
extremely fine and rare ceramic, carbon, titanium and pink gold
laptimer chronograph wristwatch, numbered 82 of a limited edition of 221 pieces
Manufacturer Audemars Piguet
Year 2016
Reference No. 26221FT
Movement No. 973’235
Case No. I44698 and 82
Model Name Royal Oak Concept Laptimer Michael Schumacher
Material Titanium, forged carbon, ceramic and 18K pink gold
Calibre Manual, cal. 2923, 34 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Rubber
Clasp/Buckle Titanium Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions 44mm Width
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 75,000-150,000
$76,200-152,000
€76,900-154,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Warranty booklet dated December 17, 2016, product literature, fitted presentation box and outer packaging.
A true “first” in the watch world, the laptimer complication is an evolution of the split seconds chronograph. When activating the pusher at 9 - while the chronograph is running - one hand flies back to zero and starts timing a new lap, the other instead stops its motion so that the time of the previous lap can be recorded. A second push will reset and start the stopped hand, and stop the running hand, thus effectively allow for infinite lap recording capabilities.
Named after Formula One legend Michael Schumacher, the functionality of the watch is an important tool for racing as it allows the timekeeper to keep track of the time of two race cars at the same time.
In order to achieve such a feat, the movement under the case of this watch is a true behemoth of horology, featuring 413 components, 3 column wheels and developed over a course of 5 years.
The case is as superlative as the movement, realized with racecar inspired materials: the main body is forged carbon, the bezel and caseback titanium, the pushers’ ceramic - with the addition of pink gold for crown, and start and reset buttons. This watch is also offered in excellent condition and complete with its original accessories.
Manufacturer Cartier
Year 1996
Case No. 1/1 and A112946
Model Name Cloche
Material Platinum
Calibre Manual, cal. 9P2, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Alligator
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Cartier deployant clasp
Dimensions 25mm Width and 33mm Length
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 30,000-60,000 ∑
$31,200-62,400
€31,200-62,300
Literature
The present watch is prominently illustrated in White Cartier Bianco by Osvaldo Patrizzi, numbered 168.
Originally produced in the 1920s, the “Cloche”, later known as the “Pagode”, was a completely novel design for the period. Asymmetrical and designed with a curved side, it most resembled a service bell, made to be rung at a counter. It joins mythic models such as the Cintrée, Crash, Baignoire Allongée, all of which are cornerstones of Cartier’s brilliant history.
Cased in platinum, the present watch is unique, numbered 1/1 on the case back and was made in 1996 as a special order timepiece most probably to celebrate the 150th Anniversary of Cartier. It is prominently illustrated in the tome White Cartier Bianco by Osvaldo Patrizzi. Similar examples were also sold in the iconic Magical Art of Cartier sale the very same year. The dial display Roman numerals with a guilloché dial - the result is nothing short of stunning and eye-catching. Special order and unique pieces are very rare to come by, as their owners guard them fiercely due to their rarity.
Most recently, the Cloche was created as limited edition in 2021 as part of Cartier’s most recent Privée Collection.
CARTIER
highly rare, surprising and attractive asymmetric wristwatch with original certificate and presentation box, number 227 of a 300 pieces limited edition
Manufacturer Cartier
Year 1996
Reference No. W1519551
Case No. A113480227 and 227/300
Model Name Parallélogramme/Tank asymétrique
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, cal. 9P2, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Cartier deployant clasp
Dimensions 23mm Width and 40mm overall Length
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 30,000-60,000
$30,500-61,000
€30,800-61,600
Accessories
Accompanied by undated Cartier Certificat de Garantie Internationale stamped by Italian retailer “Fasoli”, limited edition Certificate, product literature, red document holder, fitted presentation box and numbered outer packaging.
In 1996, Cartier re-discovered a 1936 design with the launch of the Tank Asymétrique in two limited editions: platinum and yellow gold. Closely based on the unusual design of the Parallélogramme, the watch is an ode to the core values of the company. Over the years, Cartier has constantly innovated by pushing the boundaries of design and form, particularly in the first part of the 20th century. The tilted architecture of this piece had the practical goal of increasing legibility while at the wheel. The strife for legibility is apparent also in the large, easily readable Arabic numerals.
The 1996 Tank Asymétrique in yellow gold was produced as a numbered limited edition with 300, of which the present watch is number 227. Preserved in excellent, unpolished condition and accompanied by its original certificate, product literature and presentation box, it represents an elusive opportunity for those who seek unbridled design beauty.
The desirability of model has not abated over the years, if anything it increased. Cartier launched a new interpretation of the Tank Asymétrique in its 2020 releases, which was immediately sold out.
OMEGA A possibly unique, highly important and uncommon yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, number 050 of a 1014 pieces limited edition and the only example known retailed by Cartier
Manufacturer Omega Year 1969
Reference No. BA145.022
Movement No. 28’080’629
Case No. 050, back hand-engraved with retailer inventory number
Model Name Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch De Luxe
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, cal. 861, 17 jewels
As if that was not enough, it is an extremely early examplebearing number 050 - as expected featuring a non-burgundy engraving and oval "O". To the delight of the collector, alongside the original bezel and bracelet, and additional Omega service bezel and Cartier bracelet/gold bars/gold buckle accompany the piece.
"Cartier"
Bracelet/Strap 18K yellow gold Omega bracelet, max length 215mm Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Omega deployant clasp stamped “1116/575”
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 60,000-120,000
$61,000-122,000
€61,600-123,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Omega Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch and its subsequent sale in the United States on September 15, 1969, new service bezel, additional new Cartier bracelet gold bars and gold pin buckle, contemporary Omega box and outer packaging.
The present lot represents one of the most important examples of the already highly collectible ref. BA145.022: the so far only known specimen featuring the "Cartier" signature on the dial. One can even distinguish on the back of the case part of the original retailer stock number.
-
Reference 145.022 in yellow gold was as a celebration of the Moonlanding and - indirectly - of Omega’s partnership with NASA. With only 1,014 examples produced, the reference has achieved by now a near mythical status. Not all 1014 pieces are identical to each other, in fact one can identify the following main “groups”:
The first and second examples were offered to the President and Vice-President of the United States (who never accepted the gift as against policy).
- Number 3 to 28 were offered to mission astronauts.
- Numbers 29 to 32 were given to Swiss personalities. Peculiarly, these 4 examples have no sequential number.
- Nos. 33 to 1000 were commercialised. Early models - such as the present lot - feature a simple engraving, later models feature an burgundy-coloured engraving
- Numbers 1001 to 1008 were presented between ’71 and '73 to astronauts who had not yet taken part in a space mission in 1969.
- The final 6 pieces (1009 - 1014) were given to various personalities
185.
ROLEX An incredibly well-preserved yellow gold calendar wristwatch with wood dial, bracelet and guarantee
186.
ROLEX A rare and attractive yellow gold calendar wristwatch with ferrite dial, service guarantee, presentation box and outer packaging
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa
Reference No.
Movement No. 0’861’611
Case No. 5’268’591
Model Name Day-Date
Material 18K yellow gold and wood
Calibre Automatic, cal. 3055, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K yellow gold Rolex President bracelet, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions 36mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 20,000-40,000
$20,300-40,700
€20,500-41,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex guarantee.
Ever glamorous and luxurious, the Day-Date model delights with its myriad of dial, bracelet, bezel and gold-finished designs.
The firm has elevated its Day-Date models with materials such as rubellite, blood stone, coral, and even fossil, providing an unusual design twist to the iconic model.
The present watch is a beautiful example featuring a briar root wood dial. The combination of yellow gold markers contrasting against the brown wood is particularly stunning.
The crisp and sharp condition of this watch is especially noteworthy. Featuring bold and full proportions, the top of the lugs are very sharp. The bottom of the lugs display deep hallmarks. The presence of the punched Rolex guarantee adds a final layer of appeal and collectability to this remarkable timepiece.
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1999
Reference No. 18238
Movement No. 60R392G0
Case No. A530667
Model Name Day-Date
Material 18K yellow gold and ferrite
Calibre Automatic, cal. 3155, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K yellow gold Rolex President bracelet, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions 36mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 15,000-30,000
$15,200-30,500
€15,400-30,800
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex service guarantee and presentation box.
The Rolex Day-Date potently mixes flair, creativity and charisma and is considered to be one of the most universally recognized and beloved watches.
This elegant reference 18238 is adorned with a very original and unusual ferrite dial. Ferrite is a ceramic alloy with a surprising reflection, not dissimilar to meteorite, giving the dial a superbly graphic appearance.
The present example is fitted with Rolex’s calibre 3155, which features a double quickset function allowing for rapid adjustment of both the day and the date. It remains wellpreserved after close to 30 years, making it a fine addition for any collector.
PATEK PHILIPPE
An enticing and rare yellow gold perpetual calendar split seconds chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, 24 hours, leap year indicator, original certificate, additional caseback and box
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 2011
Reference No. 5004J
Movement No. 3’275’237
Case No. 4’492’820
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, cal. 27-70, 28 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions 36mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 120,000-240,000
$122,000-244,000
€123,000-246,000
Accessories
Accompanied by fitted box, Certificate of Origin dated March 1, 2011, additional caseback, setting pin, leather folios, instruction manual, product literature and outer packaging.
The reference 5004 is most probably one of the timepieces that represents the epitome of what Patek Philippe stands for: stealth sophistication.
Reference 5004 was produced between 1994 and 2010 and was Patek Philippe’s first serially produced perpetual calendar split seconds chronograph. Together with the reference 5070 and 5970, it is the last Patek Philippe model to employ the “Nouvelle Lemania” based calibre.
The aesthetics of the watch are based on the reference 3970 (itself based on the iconic ref. 2499), with subtle differences: the dial features large Arabic numerals instead of baton markers most often found on the ref. 3970; the case is thicker and 0.8 mm larger as a result of the split-seconds complication, granting it a more substantial wrist presence, while still remaining very elegant and understated.
The intricacy of the split seconds module, compounded with the already complex perpetual calendar chronograph and the enormously high finishing standard of the company, commanded an incredibly slow production rate.
The present example is one of the very last ones made and is in superb condition with strong stepped lugs, deep hallmarks and coming with full set of accessories including the solid caseback.
RICHARD MILLE A very fine and rare black-coated titanium skeletonized tonneau-shaped flyback chronograph wristwatch with date, month and presentation box, numbered 12 of a limited edition of 30 pieces, made for Chronopassion
Manufacturer Richard Mille
Year 2007
Reference No. RM011-AH Ti Movement No. 304
Case No. 761, 12/30
Model Name RM011 Chronopassion Black Limited “Felipe Massa”
Material Black-coated titanium
Calibre Automatic, cal. 6201, 68 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Rubber
Clasp/Buckle Black-coated titanium Richard Mille deployant clasp
Dimensions 41mm Width
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 90,000-180,000
$91,500-183,000
€92,300-185,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Richard Mille Letter and Certified Pre-owned Warranty, instruction manual, leather folio, outer packaging and fitted numbered presentation box.
Richard Mille’s motto is “ A Racing Machine on the Wrist” and it is thus perfectly logical that the brand teamed up with F1 drivers. The present timepiece is part of a collaboration made in 2007 between Richard Mille and the back then “Scuderia Ferrari” F1 driver Felipe Massa.
Cased in the firm’s iconic tonneau-shaped case and powered by the automatic caliber 6201, the movement is skeletonized with a variable-geometry rotor that offers: hours, minutes, seconds, flyback chronograph, 60-minute countdown timer at 9 o’clock, 12-hour totalizer, and oversize date and month indicator.
The case is also one of the very first examples to feature a DLCcoated titanium case giving an all-black appeal contrasted with white, red and yellow accents. This specific color scheme was made specially for the official Richard Mille authorized dealer, Chronopassion founded by respected collector and watch enthusiast Laurent Picciotto.
Numbered 12 of a 30 piece limited edition, the present example is offered in excellent overall condition and complete with its full set of accessories making it a rare and unique opportunity definitely not to be missed.
RM011-AH Ti Chronopassion Black Limited Edition Felipe MassaManufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 2021
Reference No. 5980/1R-001
Movement No. 7’329’428
Case No. 6’383’960
Model Name Nautilus, “The Boss”
Material 18K pink gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. CH 28-520 C, 35 jewels, stamped with the Patek Philippe seal
Bracelet/Strap 18K pink gold Patek Philippe bracelet stamped “A384GAP” to the endlinks, max length 210mm
Clasp/Buckle 18K pink gold Patek Philippe double deployant clasp Dimensions 43.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 150,000-300,000
$152,000-305,000
€154,000-308,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin stamped by Casa Barros and dated January 27, 2021, product literature, leather document holder, fitted presentation box and outer packaging.
Officially announced in 2013, Patek Philippe reference 5980/1R can be considered to be one of the most eye-catching, impressive and dazzling modern chronographs present on today’s market.
The pink gold case, in tandem with its immediately distinguishable Genta-design Nautilus architecture and size almost seems a match too good to be true. Cased at 43mm in diameter the timepiece is certainly not for the faint of heart and most definitely commands power and attention. Having said so the case does sit quite comfortably on the wrist without being excessively stiff.
The dark dial, slightly tending more to the chocolate color is further exalted when contrasted against the warm pink gold color of the case and is extremely legible. At 6 o’clock one can notice the signature statement of the 5980 Nautilus collection: the combined chronograph registers, also known as “bulls-eye” counter.
Inside, the watch is powered by Patek Philippe’s first selfwinding in-house chronograph movement, the automatic caliber CH28 - 520 C. With a 60-minute and 12-hour monocounter, the movement boasts a power reserve of up to 55 hours.
Given the nearly mystical appeal of this timepiece, it is no surprise that the model is virtually impossible to acquire at retail and has reached the Elysian field amongst other extremely adulated and unattainable references.
The present example, preserved in hardly worn condition, is offered with its original set of accessories.
190. ROLEX
well-preserved and attractive
seconds, sodalite dial, date, bracelet,
Manufacturer Rolex
Reference No. 16234
Movement No. 38’533’189
Case No. P239421
Model Name Datejust
Material Stainless steel, 18K white gold and sodalite
Calibre Automatic, cal. 3135, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Jubilee bracelet, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
36mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet
Estimate
CHF 8,000-12,000
$8,100-12,200
€8,200-12,300
Accompanied by Rolex guarantee dated June 17, 2000, presentation box and outer packaging.
The present example Rolex Datejust reference 16234 in stainless steel with an 18K white gold bezel is a very impressive example. Displaying a crisp case with razor sharp edges and a beautifully well-preserved bracelet, the watch most notably has a mesmerizing blue sodalite dial with diamond-set indexes. Most sodalite examples today have fissures on the dial due to its delicate nature, however this example is intact and smooth throughout and without defaults. Rolex is particularly imaginative and innovative in its use of hard stone, and the present timepiece is no exception.
Preserved in excellent condition and accompanied by its full set of accessories, the present timepiece is simply a delight to acquire.
191. ROLEX A rare, very fine and elegant platinum wristwatch with center seconds, hack feature, day, date, sapphire-set indexes, bracelet, sticker, guarantee and fitted presentation box
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 2000
Reference No. 118206; inside caseback stamped 2096
Movement No. 38’585’635
Case No. P’197’930
Model Name Day-Date
Material Platinum and sapphires
Calibre Automatic, cal. 3155, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Platinum Rolex president bracelet, endlinks stamped “AB” and “83856”, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle Platinum concealed Rolex deployant clasp stamped “83856”
Dimensions 36mm diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 15,000-25,000 • $15,200-25,400 €15,400-25,600
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex guarantee stamped by Harrods and dated September 11, 2002, original Harrods receipt calendar card for the years 2001/2002, sale tag, hang tag, product literature, green card holder, green leather wallet, green leather fitted presentation box and outer packaging.
The present attractive and elegant Rolex Day-Date reference 118206 perfectly encapsulates the prestige and transcendence of Rolex timepieces. Cased in platinum, considered to be among the finest and most prestigious of metals, the timepiece retains the unmistakable essence and characteristics of the Day-Date models, that being the two apertures at 12 and 3 o’clock for the
day and date respectively. Since its introduction in 1956, the Day-Date has been one of the most unique and varied flagship model Rolex has ever manufactured and most notably has only ever been cased in precious metals, except from prototype models, demonstrating its glamor and status.
At 36mm, the watch sits comfortably and fashionably on the wrist. Already from first sight one can truly realize the grandeur of the timepiece, as at the 9 and 6 o’clock hour markers we can find two vibrant and enticing sapphires set on the dial. Extremely seductive, like deep blue eyes, the precious encased gemstones further enhance the elegance and refinement of the present timepiece. Upon even closer inspection, placed on the dagger looking indexes one can notice a very thin darker black line applied replacing any luminous material, adding to the exoticness of the timepiece a touch of darker color contrasting with the silver tone of the case and dial.
Distinguished by its platinum case and preserved in excellent and unpolished condition with the sticker still present, this timepiece is certain to delight collectors with its presence and dashing dark blue sapphire-set indexes. Subtle and tasteful, this reference 118206 is certainly a beautiful and visually arresting example that true Day-Date collectors should not miss. Complete with its full set of accessories this is a highly desirable piece to add to a discerned collection.
Manufacturer Rolex
Year
Reference No. 1680
Movement No. D376371
Case No. 2’817’876
Model Name Submariner
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 30,000-60,000
$30,500-61,000
€30,800-61,600
Launched around 1967, reference 1680 was the first Submariner model to be fitted with a date function. The model was most typically cased in stainless steel. Early examples displayed a “meters first” depth rating, with the “Submariner” script printed in red, hence the name “Red Submariner”.
Yet, an even more unusual Submariner is one cased in yellow gold. Reference 1680 was the first Submariner model to be cased in the precious metal, which provided a fresh, glamorous and luxurious update to a watch most traditionally associated with stainless steel.
The present watch, offered in extremely crisp condition is very impressive. All hallmarks beneath the lugs are sharp and visible, and even the bevels on the edge remain sharp. Most stunningly, the center of the dial looks slightly violet under certain light conditions, meaning that it is starting the “tropical” process.
193. ROLEX A rare and attractive yellow gold calendar wristwatch with center
Manufacturer
Model
Material
Calibre
Bracelet/Strap
Clasp/Buckle
Dimensions
Signed
Estimate
CHF 12,000-14,000
$12,200-14,200
€12,300-14,400
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex service guarantee
pouch.
This rare variant of reference 18238 is fitted with a beautiful champagne dial adorned with diamonds surrounding the Roman numerals. Preserved in excellent condition, hallmarks are present on the lugs, further underscoring its condition and rarity.
Ever glamorous and luxurious, the Day-Date model delights with its myriad of dial, bracelet, bezel and gold-finished designs. The firm has elevated its Day-Date models with materials such as rubellite, blood stone, coral, and even fossil, providing an unusual design twist to the iconic model.
194. ROLEX An extremely rare and virtually “new old stock” stainless steel wristwatch with center seconds, date, bracelet, guarantee and presentation box, made for the UAE
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1994
Reference No. 15200
Case No. S980491
Model Name Oyster Perpetual Date
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 3135, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions 34mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 2,000-4,000
$2,000-4,100
€2,100-4,100
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex guarantee dated 1995, hang tag, presentation box and outer packaging.
Preserved in virtually “new old stock” condition, the present timepiece most notably displays the UAE military crest on the dial. The timepiece stands out due to its exceptional condition. Virtually never worn, it is accompanied by all its original accessories and even displays the sticker on the caseback.
Timepieces fitted with special order dials were often presented by Middle Eastern royalty as gifts for the most loyal servants, dignitaries and citizens. It was an honor to be presented with a Rolex timepiece bearing the state symbol. Many of these wristwatches are cherished by their original owners, and passed down from one generation to the next.
Manufacturer Rolex Year 1972
Reference No. 6263
Case No. 3’048’154
Model Name Cosmograph Daytona “Sigma Dial”
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped 7835 18, end links stamped 271, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 3.70
Dimensions 37mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate
CHF 50,000-100,000 ∆
$50,800-102,000
€51,300-103,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex guarantee dated 3 July 1976, stamped Orologeria Luigi Verga, Milano, original sales receipt dated July 03, 1976 from Orologeria Luigi Verga, green leather presentation box, green wallet, product literature and outer packaging.
Rolex’s Cosmograph Daytona reference 6263 was in production, along with its sibling metal-bezel reference 6265, since the late 1960s until 1987. The final evolution of the manually-wound Daytona line, the model is considered by many
to be the most representative and iconic of the Cosmograph collection, incorporating all the details which made the Daytona a masterpiece of design: bezel with black insert bearing a tachymeter scale, screw-down pushers, and the unmistakable Rolex Oyster case.
The present example from 1971 is a rare and early variant, with an elegant and attractive “Sigma’” dial. The “T Swiss T” signature at 6 o’clock is flanked by the Greek symbol Sigma, denoting the markers and hands are made of white gold.
Research indicates the “Sigma” notation appeared on Rolex dials in the early 1970s, following the issue of a set of guidelines by APRIOR (Association pour la promotion industrielle de l’or: Association for the industrial promotion of gold). Such guidelines indeed suggested (but it was not compulsory, hence not all dials with gold bear the sigma) to add the Greek letter sigma to the dial of watches bearing gold details (such as the markers, in this case). Possibly due to the cryptic nature of this designation, it was abandoned after a few years.
In overall outstanding condition with a crisp case and wellpreserved dial, the present Daytona with sigma dial is offered with both its guarantee and original sales invoice dated 3 July 1976. Originally sold by Orologeria Luigi Verga, Milano, the watch is further accompanied by its presentation box, and is a top-quality example with black dial and silver sub dials, which contrast perfectly with the outer black bezel insert.
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1967
Reference No. 6239
Case No. 1’601’377
Model Name Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman”
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “571” and “78350 19” to the endlinks, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped “G 78350”
Dimensions 36.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 100,000-200,000
$102,000-203,000
€103,000-205,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex Garantie stamped by St. Moritz retailer Bucherer and dated October 14, 1968.
Rolex launched reference 6239 in 1962 as the very first Cosmograph Daytona model in their chronograph collection.
It was the beginning of a legend, and today the Daytona is one of the most sought-after models with extensive wait lists at boutiques all over the world. Rolex initially marketed
the reference as the “Le Mans” before settling on the more international sounding “Daytona” moniker following the brands association with the famed 24-hour motorsport race.
The increasing prominence of the American market for the brand might also have something to do with this last second name change. In fact, the model was originally “pre-launched” - to use a modern terminology - in the States, while it became available to worldwide buyers only in 1963. It was available in stainless steel, 14K, and 18K gold, and it was the brand’s first chronograph to feature the tachymeter scale outside the dial incorporated on the bezel - its defining design feature.
A quintessential “Paul Newman” Daytona, the present 6239 model bears the very same reference that the American actor brought to worldwide fame (and collectability), albeit this specimen features a black dial while Newman’s “Paul Newman” features a white one. With a three-dimensional design, Art Deco-style numerals and contrasting black grèné dial with white subsidiary counters and outer track, the dial architecture is flamboyant and yet sporty and framed, striking an incredible balance between looks and utilitarianism. As expected from early “Paul Newman” dials, the outer track features red graphics and the T Swiss T designation is in sing-a-song style.
In fact, the present example bearing 1.601M serial number represents one of the earliest examples of “Paul Newman” dials, which made their first appearance precisely around this period.
Ref. 6239 Cosmograph Daytona "Paul Newman"Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1971
Reference No. 6262 inside caseback stamped 6239
Case No. 2’621’434
Model Name Cosmograph Daytona
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “571” and “78350 19” to the endlinks, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped “T9 78350”
Dimensions 37mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 80,000-160,000
$81,300-163,000
€82,100-164,000
In 1969, Rolex launched two Cosmograph references; reference 6262 with the silver bezel and reference 6264 with an acrylic bezel. Very similar to the previous generation, these two references are now considered transitional models: they feature the upgraded caliber 727, but still maintain pump pushers, which will disappear the Daytona line in 1972, with the discontinuation of these two references and the introduction of two new references with screw-down pushers, ref. 6263 & 6265.
The present watch is astoundingly original and beautiful in so many ways. The most awe inspiring and captivating aspect of the watch is the dial. The silver soleil dial is preserved in excellent condition, and is free of tarnishing. Most striking are the subsidiary registers, which are arguably the most compelling aspect of the watch. Originally black, they have ‘turned’ to an even cappuccino/chestnut shade over time, even leaning into orange. It is fascinating how each register has aged in such a consistent, uniform way, that is incredibly pleasing to the eye. The luminous accents are furthermore preserved in equally excellent condition, and remains round and intact throughout.
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1940
Reference No. 3330
Case No. 047’520
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Manual, cal. Valjoux 22, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Alligator
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex pin buckle
Dimensions 37mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 150,000-300,000 ∑
$152,000-305,000
€154,000-308,000
Reference 3330 is considered by many one of the rarest and largest pre-Oyster Rolex chronographs ever produced by the firm. Made in the early 1940s, the model boasts a large case, unique for the majority of watch brands during this time period with a diameter of 37 mm. The reference 3330 was ahead of its time, as its innovative design is much more typical for today’s market. This antimagnetic chronograph reference has increased in desirability amongst collectors due to its rarity and stunning looks. Recognizable by its over-sized twelve-hour register, a feature that was not available from other distinguished firms, and its well-proportioned case, only a handful of reference 3330s have appeared at auction in recent times, underscoring this model’s utter exclusivity.
The present example elevates the desirability of the model thanks to its black dial, a feature that will appeal both scholarlyinclined collectors - thanks to its rarity - as well as the more aesthetics-devoted ones - thanks to the enormous charm and character the black dial grants to the ensemble.
incredibly rare pink gold chronograph wristwatch with twotone dial, one of only 6 known
6026 "One of Six in Pink Gold"
Manufacturer Vacheron Constantin
1955
Reference No. 6026
Movement No. 466’926
Case No. 344’836
Material 18K pink gold
Calibre Manual, cal. 13’’-492, 19 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Gilt pin buckle
Dimensions 36mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate
CHF 30,000-60,000
$30,500-61,000
€30,800-61,600
Accessories
Accompanied by an Extract from the Archives from Vacheron Constantin confirming date of production in 1955.
Undoubtedly the chronograph is the undisputed king of complications in term of market desirability and success. A little known fact is that it is also extremely complicated to manufacture. Vacheron Constantin created its very first wrist chronograph in 1917 and since then the variety and diverse designs make these some of the most desirable ever made.
Reference 6026 is undisputedly part of the elite group of ultrarare chronographs made by Vacheron Constantin (or any other brand) as it was launched in 1954, in production for just one year, where only 19 pieces are known in yellow gold and 6 in pink gold like the present example.
Measuring a bit over 36mm in diameter the watch has huge wrist presence thanks to its steeped bezel and large angular lugs.
The pink gold case perfectly frames the attractive two-tone ivory dial.
There are rare watches and then there are pieces that are mostly known via archival images and come to the market once every blue moon, the present Vacheron Constantin reference 6026 is part of the latter and offers a unique opportunity to obtain one of the rarest and most coveted of vintage chronographs.
Manufacturer Vacheron Constantin Year 1945
Reference No. 4072
Movement No. 437’649
Case No. 289’020
Material 18K pink gold
Calibre manual, cal. 434, 19 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Alligator
Clasp/Buckle 18K pink gold AW buckle
Dimensions 35mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, and movement signed
Estimate
CHF 15,000-25,000
$15,200-25,400
€15,400-25,600
Accompanied by Vacheron
the
Collectors agree that Vacheron Constantin’s chronograph reference 4072 is one of the most balanced and attractive vintage chronographs with its sleek and elegant lines.
In production from 1938 until the late 1960s, the reference 4072 is a very diverse chronograph model. While cased most often in yellow gold, the reference was also dressed in pink gold, stainless steel, or steel and gold combinations.
The elongated lugs and wide opening to the dial give the watch huge presence on the wrist.
The two tone dial framed by the pink gold case give extra character to this appealing example.
201. IWC A fine, rare, and very large stainless-steel wristwatch with original box and certificate of authenticity
Manufacturer IWC
Year 1942
Reference No. 325
Movement No. 932’016
Case No. 1’072’476
Model Name Portugieser
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Manual, cal. 74, 16 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel
Dimensions 42mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, and movement signed
Estimate
CHF 15,000-30,000
$15,200-30,500
€15,400-30,800
Accessories
Accompanied by IWC Certificate stating that the watch has been examined by IWC and confirming delivery of the piece on August 18, 1942, and original fitted box.
The origins of the IWC Portugieser reference 325 have now been scholarly agreed upon, pinpointing it to the beginning of 1932, where two Portuguese watch importers by the name of Mr. Rodrigues and Mr. Teixeira commissioned IWC
with a special request: an oversized wristwatch with a highly accurate movement. Luckily, IWC had already developed and implemented in their pocket watches their cal. 74, a manually wound savonette movement with subsidiary seconds and a 54-hour power reserve. Whilst it was pretty common back then to have a large diameter pocket watch, a 42mm wristwatch was definitely impressive.
The very first IWC references 325 were shipped to Lisbon in 1942 to Mr. Rodrigues, later of the firm Rodrigues & Gonçalves, Ltd. According to IWC, only 304 examples reference 325 were produced with the caliber 74, with a total of 690 examples in total produced between 1939 and 1981. Over these 42 years, only 141 actual Portugieser watches were imported to Portugal. Though prized by collectors today because of their rarity, size, and history, IWC’s reference 325 did not enjoy acclaim during its actual production. Historically extremely important, the present timepiece from August 1942 is probably one of the very first examples of reference 325 ever to have been produced by IWC.
The oversized case, black Arabic numerals and blued hours and minutes hands render the timepiece extremely legible and refined. The rarity of the present lot should be enough to capture the heart of any collector, but these elements are further enhanced by this Portugieser’s remarkable case and dial condition.
200. VACHERON CONSTANTIN An elegant pink gold chronograph wristwatch with two-tone dialManufacturer Omega
Year 1960
Reference No. 2998-1
Movement No. 17’302’157
Model Name Speedmaster
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Manual, cal. 321, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Omega bracelet, end links stamped 9, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Omega deployant clasp further stamped 4.59
Dimensions 39mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 30,000-60,000
$30,500-61,000
€30,800-61,600
Accessories
Accompanied by Omega Extract from the Archives confirming production of the watch on January 15, 1960 and its delivery to the “Netherlands Antilles”.
Let us start by saying that the present lot is most probably the best-preserved example of an Omega Speedmaster reference 2998 we have ever seen. The case, paired with its original bracelet, appears untouched and it seems that this beauty has been asleep in a safe since the early 1960s. Fitted with its
original black tachymeter bezel graduated to 1000 units, the watch features an amazing dial that has turned a surprising dark chocolate color giving the watch incredible charisma and appeal.
Widely known as the first and only watch worn on the moon, the Omega Speedmaster has been captivating collectors for over 60 years. The reference 2998 was launched in 1959 to replace the original reference 2915 and was in production for only 3 short years as production ceased in 1962 (even though some examples were still being delivered the year after).
Small modifications (different hands, bezels or dials) were made to reference 2998 throughout its production period, each modification being defined by the number after the hyphen in the reference number inscribed in the caseback. In this case: 2998-1 means it was the first iteration of this reference. This reference is powered by the famed Lemania caliber 321, revered amongst watch enthusiasts for its robust chronograph mechanism. The manual wound caliber was used by Omega from 1946-1968 offering optimal performance and reliability.
Adding even more excitement to this piece is that the Omega archives reveal that the present watch was part of a batch delivered to “Netherlands Antilles”. Actually, two other examples of this batch with very close movement numbers have appeared on the market in recent years.
The incredible condition, compelling dial and historical relevance render this reference 2998-1 a must have in a collection of rare vintage watches.
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 1957
Reference No. 2551
Movement No. 764’389
Case No. 698’129
Material 18K white gold
Calibre Automatic, cal 12-600, 30 jewels, double stamped with the Geneva Seal
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions 36mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 150,000-300,000
$152,000-305,000
€154,000-308,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1957 with black dial and diamond indexes and its subsequent sale on January 28, 1958.
Sophisticated, understated yet bold, Patek Philippe’s reference 2551 is one of the firm’s most impressive watches. In production alongside the iconic reference 2526 during the second half of the 1950s, it shares with its brethren a 36mm case diameter and, most notably, the legendary calibre 12-600, widely considered one of the best - if not the best outright - automatic movements of all times.
While the case design of ref. 2526 is stern and imposing, directly derived by the near-militaristic Bauhaus-inspired Calatrava designs of the 1930s and 1940s, reference 2551 is the time only version of one of the most flamboyant, striking, elegant and appreciated case designs of all times: that of reference 2499. The carved downturned lugs, the concave bezel, the contrasting convex band: Patek Philippe basically took the case of ref. 2499, removed the chronograph pushers, slimmed it down and made it waterproof with a screw-down back (similarly to ref. 2438/1) Predominantly cased in yellow or pink gold, the true connoisseurs of the brand consider it a classic in any metal. A white metal example, however, is above and beyond simple watch collecting, achieving true “grail status” already: in fact only a tiny fraction of the production (few dozen pieces out of the estimated couple of thousands examples produced) is in white gold. When a white gold example - such as the present one - is furthermore adorned with a black dial with diamond markers - arguably the most rare Patek Philippe dress watch dial design - we land in legendary territories as we are in front of a so far unique creation. To date, we are not aware of any other model with this dial and case metal combination.
On top of its incredible rarity and looks, the piece is furthermore in absolutely stunning and unrestored condition, sporting a case with perfectly preserved architecture, and an equally well-kept dial without the slightest trace of intervention . All these factors combined make this timepiece one of the most relevant timeonly Patek Philippe wristwatches ever made, an unmissable “must have” for the collector of important vintage pieces.
Manufacturer Vacheron Constantin
Year 1961
Reference No. 6448
Movement No. 455’138
Case No. 873’261
Material 18K white gold
Calibre Manual, cal. 13’’’, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Platinum Vacheron Constantin pin buckle
Dimensions 36.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 100,000-200,000
$102,000-203,000
€103,000-205,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Vacheron Constantin Extract form the Archives.
Vacheron Constantin made its first minute repeater pocketwatch in 1812, before combining striking mechanisms with major complications throughout the following decades and created its first wristwatch minute repeater in 1930.
Ever since, the brand has mastered the delicate art of chiming timepieces making some of the most beautiful and best sounding minute repeaters ever made.
Reference 6448 sits apart from Vacheron Constantin’s vintage minute repeater wristwatches as it has straight lugs as opposed to the brand’s signature tear drop lugs of the reference 4261. Furthermore, it was the last vintage minute repeater wristwatch made by the brand – who waited 30 years until reintroducing this complication in a wristwatch in the early 1990s.
Reference 6448 was made in only three unique examples: platinum with diamond indexes, white gold with baton indexes and white gold with diamond indexes – the present watch has been in a private European collection for close to a quarter of century.
The sotto voce elegance of this timepiece with the flamboyance of the diamond markers and theatricality of the minute repeating mechanism make it not only an in incredibly appealing watch from which emanates an air of calm luxury but the well-preserved condition and ultra-rarity make it a crown jewel in any collection.
An extraordinary and very important white gold automatic wristwatch with silvered dial with diamond-set numerals and additional enamel dial
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 1955
Reference No. 2526
Movement No. 762’700
Case No. 688’740
Material 18K white gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 12-600AT, 30 jewels, stamped twice with the Geneva Seal
Bracelet/Strap Patek Philippe alligator strap
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions 35.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 100,000-200,000 ∑
$102,000-203,000
€103,000-205,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe presentation box and outer packaging. Furthermore delivered with Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming the production of the present watch with this diamond-set silvered dial in 1955 and its subsequent sale on 31 October 1956.
Patek Philippe’s first automatic wristwatch, the legendary reference 2526, was introduced to the market in 1953 and set the standard for a timeless and elegant case design. Reference 2526 was launched with the celebrated caliber 12-600 ATPatek Philippe’s first automatic movement, considered by many to be the most beautiful self-winding movement made by any manufacturer.
The 12-600 AT is still considered to this day, to be one of the best automatic movements ever created. This is due to the fact that Patek Philippe, like all other manufacturers, was not able to produce an automatic movement with a 360 degree rotor until Rolex’s patent expired. Rather than spending time on less optimal solutions (bumper rotors, hinged-lugs winding, etc.),
Patek Philippe focused its R&D on the cal. 12-600 for over two decades, waiting for the patent to expire.
Only 23 examples of white gold 2526s are known to scholars, and only 7 examples display the current dial configuration. The present watch is preserved in impressive condition with a sharp hallmark beneath the lug.
A very elegant and distinguished
Manufacturer A. Lange & Söhne
Year Circa 2005
Reference No. 110.029
Model
Material
Bracelet/Strap
Clasp/Buckle
CHF
$15,200-30,500
€15,400-30,800
power reserve indication, hack feature and mother-of-pearl
The Lange 1 is a true cornerstone of A. Lange & Söhne’s production. One of the “original 4” - the four models unveiled at the re-opening of the company in 1994 - the reference has seen many variations of case and dial, both in terms of material and in terms of decor as well.
gold
The present example, however, is not only one of the most elusive iteration of the model, but arguably also one of the most refined, poetic and elegantly striking: the Lange 1 Soirée.
Launched in 2001, the Soirée collection was intended - as the name indicates - as the most elegant and dressy iteration of the model. As such, it was granted an incredibly appealing motherof-pear dial. Offered in both leather strap and integrated bracelet version, it was available in five different configurations: white gold with plain dial (the present version), white gold with engraved dial, white gold with bluish plain dial (a version made for Dubai), pink gold with engraved dial, and platinum with plain dark dial.
While nearly identical in construction to the standard Lange 1, it intriguingly features a slightly thicker case (10.4 mm vs the standard 9.8 mm). This is to accommodate the additional layer of mother-of-pearl applied to the silver dial plate. Additionally, as the pinions for the hands have to be longer - always due to the extra space required by the mother-of-pear dial - the movement has been modified accordingly. In an undisputed example of German precision, the name of the calibre has been modified as well, this is why the machine powering these pieces is the obscure L901.4 instead of the L901.0 usually found in the Lange 1.
Offered in unpolished condition and with a flawless dial, the present piece represents one of the most elegant timepieces produced by the German watchmaker: an unmissable opportunity for the knowledgeable collector.
207. A. LANGE & SÖHNE A highly rare, early and attractive yellow gold wristwatch with “small MIG” dial, guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer A. Lange & Söhne
Year 2001
Reference No. 101.021
Movement No. 22’978
Case No. 130’909
Model Name Lange 1
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, cal. L901.0, 53 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Alligator
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold A. Lange & Söhne buckle
Dimensions 38.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 10,000-20,000 ∑
$10,200-20,300
€10,300-20,500
Accessories
Accompanied by A. Lange & Söhne Guarantee Certificate dated October 09, 2001, product literature, presentation box and outer packaging.
The A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 displaying eccentric time and seconds with an asymmetrically positioned large date window and power reserve at 3 o’clock is one of the most immediately recognizable Lange models. It was among the first models the firm presented when re-opening in 1994 and immediately captivated the hearts and minds of the public. It is now one of the cornerstones of the brand.
Bought by the present consignor from the original owner in Switzerland, this early reference 101.021 is distinguished by its excellent condition and the presence of its original guarantee, stating the watch was sold in 2001 in Madrid. The case is preserved in original condition and all hallmarks and case numbers are sharp and deep. Most notably, it displays the original and early dial, known as “Small MIG”, where “Made in Germany” is printed in smaller font without serifs - this dial variation is particularly sought after among collectors.
Manufacturer A. Lange & Söhne
Year Circa 2005
Reference No. 403.031
Movement No. 30’951
Case No. 151’939
Model Name “Dufourograph”
Material 18K pink gold
Calibre Manual, cal. L951.1, 40 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K pink gold A. Lange & Söhne pin buckle
Dimensions 39mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 30,000-60,000
$30,500-61,000
€30,800-61,600
Accessories
Accompanied by A. Lange & Söhne guarantee stamped Wixon Jewelers, Minneapolis dated 3rd March 2006, leather portfolio, watch manual, polishing cloth, fitted presentation box and outer packaging.
game-changer in the history of horology and an impressive achievement for the German brand.
Cased in a 39mm diameter, the flyback function of the Datograph allows the chronograph to be instantly reset to zero and started again in the midst of an ongoing measurement by simply pushing down the chronograph button. The Datograph presented a first in modern watchmaking as the minutes counter hand “jumps” exactly by an increment when the chronograph seconds hand reaches 60.
The present timepiece adorns an elegant black dial with white script and raised pink gold Roman numerals. Designed with the A. Lange & Söhne signature large date aperture at 12 o’clock and two subsidiary dials respectively between 3 and 5 o’clock, and 7 and 9 o’clock, the dial has an unmistakable symmetry, balance and poise. But the star of the show is the manually wound, in-house chronograph movement calibre L951.1. Like fine knitted lace, the intricate movement can be admired through the sapphire caseback where each intricate detail and delicate decorations are exquisitely displayed. When the pink gold, black dial variant was spotted on the wrist of Mr. Dufour, a nickname was born; the 'Dufourograph'.
Described by one of the greatest living watchmakersPhilippe Dufour - as the best serially produced chronograph in the world (and a watch he wears in this very configuration presented here), it is impossible to sing the praises of Lange & Söhne's iconic chronograph highly enough. Introduced in the 1999 Baselworld fair, the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph was a
Only in production for three short years between 2003 and 2005, the pink gold A. Lange & Söhne Datograph with black dial is extremely rare and is already an irresistible slice of horological history within the community. Preserved in excellent condition, the present example will delight the most discerning collectors of fine horology.
It is with great honor and pleasure that Phillips offers this unique A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph “Hampton Court Edition” in white gold and being sold for a good cause.
Ever since the launch of the Datograph in 1999, chronographs leaving the Glashütte based manufacture are considered some of the best and most beautiful on the market. The 1815 Chronograph is no exception, presented in 2004 the model is a potent mix of classic design with cutting edge mechanics.
It boasts an in-house manual movement, expertly finished throughout with Glashütte stripes and a signature handengraved balance cock. The full lexicon of movement finishing is unleashed on each component of a Lange wristwatch: black polishing, perlage, straight and circular graining, mirror polishing, chamfering, and anglage, amongst others.
The present 1815 Chronograph “Hampton Court” displays a unique set of features never seen before in this model range notably a white gold case, a black dial that lures in seductively with its silver subcounters. Sand colored script, numerals and outer track add a dash of panache to an already stunning timepiece.
The Saxon firm has aligned its marque with the world of historic, rare and prestigious cars since 2012 when it formed a partnership with the Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este, an annual event held on the shores of Lake Como. Likewise, in 2018 the firm became a partner of the Concours of Elegance, staged at Hampton Court Palace on the outskirts of London.
The present unique piece was specially developed for the Concours of Elegance 2022 as demonstrated by the hinged caseback that is painstaking hand engraved with the Concours of Elegance logo.
The hinged caseback opens to reveal the inhouse manual movement L951.5 in all its technicolor architectural beauty.
The full proceeds of the present unique 1815 Chronograph “Hampton Court Edition” will go to The Prince’s Trust. Founded in 1976 by His Majesty King Charles III, the charity helps young people aged 11 to 30 develop basic life skills, prepare for the workplace and gain access to employment opportunities.
210.
105.001
&
Outsize Date "Solid Caseback"
Manufacturer A. Lange & Söhne
Year 1999
Reference No. 105.001
Movement No. 897
Case No. 110’568
Model Name Saxonia Outsize Date
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, cal. 911.3, 30 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold A. Lange & Söhne buckle
Dimensions 34mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 10,000-20,000
$10,200-20,300
€10,300-20,500
Accessories
Accompanied by A. Lange & Söhne guarantee dated November 29, 1999, additional certificate and presentation box.
The Saxonia line was named after the German state Saxony, home to the town of Glashütte where Ferdinand A. Lange established his firm. Of the four debut models released at Dresden Royal Palace in 1994, the Saxonia line most closely
resembles the traditional gentleman’s dress watch with its simplicity and elegance. The case design is pure and minimal, while the dial features the brand’s trademark “Outsized Date”.
The present watch, reference 105.001 is a very rare example - research with A. Lange & Söhne shows that in the first months after the launch of the original Saxonia model (reference 102.001), Saxonia watches were still equipped with a rectangular movement developed for the Arkade. Perhaps because of the mismatched movement, the rare early watches, such as the present watch, featured a closed case back. These early first series of Saxonia Outsize Date feature the early MIG (Made In Germany) printing at 6 o’clock.
The manufacture eventually created the Saxonia caliber, which went into serial production in 1995/1996, and all subsequent Saxonia watches had open backs. The solid-back watches were produced exclusively in yellow gold, and the brand later added a platinum version with rhodium dial to the range. The present watch was probably made during the first year of production, as evidenced by the movement and case numbers, both of which are under 1,000.
The present watch remains in excellent condition and is accompanied by its original guarantee.
1579 "Anse a Ragno"
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 1950
Reference No. 1579
Movement No. 867’558
Case No. 660’200
Model Name “Spider Lugs”, “Anse a Ragno”
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, cal. 13’’’130, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold
Dimensions 36mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 25,000-50,000
$26,000-52,000
€26,000-52,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives. Furthermore accompanied by Habsburg, Feldman Certificate of Authenticity dated October 14, 1989
The defining characteristic of reference 1579 is without a doubt its angled lugs: each one presents 6 facets, three on the short first part of the lug, leading from the case to the broad mid section, mirrored by three others on the second long part of the lug, tapering into a tip. This unusual and fanciful architecture
was a departure from Patek Philippe’s normal Calatravainspired chronographs of the period and is a surprising mix of strength and levity. It is so characteristic and peculiar that it has inspired a nickname for this model since the 1980s: “Spider Lugs” (originally, “Anse a Ragno”, in Italian), one of the earliest examples of watch nickname. In an exquisite show of subtlety, the angularity of the case is reprised on the dial by the faceted pyramid markers - the standard on this model since the beginning of the 1950s (1940s example usually bear baton markers) and hardly ever seen on any other Patek Philippe wristwatch. Coupled with the generous size of the case, this eclectic design rendered ref. 1579 one of the most appreciated and collectible models of the company.
In production from 1943 to the mid-60s, the model is known in yellow gold, pink gold, steel and platinum, with all cases made by Wenger (casemaker number 1, in a Key as for al Geneva makers). The total production for the model is estimated to be less than 500 pieces, a more restricted output than several current production limited edition pieces.
The present example has resided in the same collection for the past 33 years, nearly to the day: it was purchased by the current owner on October 15, 1989 at an Habsburg, Feldman auction - as documented by the accompanying Habsburg Feldman Certificate. The dedication “Clielo 8 - IX - 50” is engraved in vernacular cursive script to the back, adding charm to the ensemble.
212. PATEK PHILIPPE A superbly well preserved, very rare and highly elegant pink gold travel time wristwatch with two hands, first series dial and first series movement, one of two known in this configuration
Patek Philippe released the reference 2597 in 1958, which was based on a Louis Cottier-designed prototype from 1953 with Heures Sautantes, or jumping hours. Cottier, an independent watchmaker now considered a legend of the field, was fascinated with multi-time zones and travel -time complications.
The model is based on reference 570, of which it is basically a carbon copy with the addition of the two pushers on the left band. Operating them makes the hour hand instantaneously jump forward or backward by one hour, allowing for easy adjustment of the time in case of travelling through time zones. So intelligent and enduring was this travel time design that versions of the same system can be still found in modern and current production Patek Philippe watches such as ref. 5524 and ref. 5134 - and in fact its evolution was the focus of the latest Advanced Research effort: the travel time Aquanaut ref. 5650 (see lot 149). A subtle addition which betrays the attention to details of Patek Philippe can be found in the pusher protection: two elements prevent inadvertent operation of the pushers, which can be effectively operated by inserting a nail into the appropriate slit.
Production of the model can be divided into two series: the First Series, like the present watch, features a single hour hand. The Second Series, launched in 1962 and named 2597-1, added an additional blued steel hour hand, thus showing both “home” and “away” times. It is important to point out that when this Second Series was launched, Patek Philippe gave retailers who still had in stock 2-hand pieces the opportunity to upgrade them with a “3-hand service kit”. Consequently, First Series examples retaining the original 2-hand configuration are extremely scarce.
Dials as well present an evolution: earlier models, such as the present piece, feature engraved/enamelled baton markers. A very costly production methodology, it was later abandoned in favour on the applied baton markers seen on Second Series dials.
PATEK PHILIPPE A superbly well preserved, very rare and highly elegant pink gold travel time wristwatch with two hands, first series dial and first series movement, one of two known in this configuration
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 1959
Reference No. 2597
Movement No. 727’318
Case No. 309’783
Model Name Calatrava “Travel Time”
Material 18K pink gold
Calibre Manual, Louis Cottier for Patek Philippe
Cal. 12-400HS, 18 jewels, stamped twice with the Geneva Seal
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Patek Philippe 18K pink gold pin buckle
Dimensions 35.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 120,000-250,000
$122,000-254,000
€123,000-256,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives.
Finally, the movement as well presents an evolution - making this one of the “most upgraded” vintage models of the company, quite ironically considered its limited production.
Early pieces, such as the present one, are fitted with cal. 12400, while later examples are fitted with cal. 27-400.
Retaining a two-hand, engraved/enamel dial configuration and the 12-400 caliber, this watch represents the purest, earliest iteration of the model.
This would already be enough to put the savvy collector on “high alert” but it is just the beginning of what the watch has to offer. It is in fact an incredibly well preserved pink gold example. If a 90-piece production makes a model rare and attractive, the elusive pink version propels it to new heights of collectability. In total, it is estimated that only 15 pink gold examples were made in total and so far, the market has seen 7 of them. Of these, only 2 - including the present piece - feature the 2-hand, cal. 12-400 configuration.
Finally, the condition of the piece is as stellar as its configuration. The case presents extremely sharp edges, strong satin finish, and deep hallmarks: it is in truly outstanding condition. The dial as well will not disappoint the most demanding collector. Just a hint of off-white patina indicated the passage of time, while the dial surface is unspoiled and the engraved enamelled numerals are flawless.
Merging condition, rarity, technical proficiency and utmost collectability, the present piece is without a doubt one of the most fascinating and important vintage pieces made by Patek Philippe to appear at auction in recent years.
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 1956
Reference No. 2597
Movement No. 727’329
Case No. 309’757
Model Name Calatrava “Travel Time”
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, cal. 12-400, 18 jewels, stamped twice with the Geneva Seal
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Gilt pin buckle
Dimensions 35.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate
CHF 40,000-80,000
$40,700-81,300
€41,000-82,100
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1956 and its subsequent sale on March 24, 1959.
Patek Philippe released the reference 2597 in 1958, which was based on a Louis Cottier-designed prototype from 1953 with Heures Sautantes, or jumping hours. Cottier, an independent watchmaker, was known for his ingenious work on specialised timepieces from jumping digital hour watches, to aviators’ watches and most notably his “World Time” mechanism from 1931. Over the span of almost 30 years, he delivered to Patek
Philippe approximately 380 watch movements leading to some of the most sought after timepieces of the 20th century, including the reference 1415 “World Time” with engraved bezel with 41 world cities, the reference 2523 - a two crown “World Time” watch rotating world city ring on the dial, and the present reference 2597.
Featuring a Louis Cottier-modified movement, ref. 2597 is based on reference 570 - of which it is basically a carbon copy with the addition of the two pushers on the left band to control the hour hand.
Production of the model can be divided into two series: the First Series, like the present watch, features a single hour hand. The Second Series, launched in 1962, added an additional blued steel hour hand. Scholarship tells us that a total of 90 movements were given Cottier to modifiy with the travel time system.
So intelligent and enduring was this travel time design that versions of the same system can be stil found in modern and current production Patek Philippe watches such as ref. 5524 and ref. 5134.
The present example represents a wonderful iteration of this rare and highly collectible model, featuring a supremely well preserved dial with engraved/enamelled graphics in close to perfect condition and with a suave and attractive off-white patina. A rare opportunity for the discerning collector to acquire one of the legendary Cottier/Patek creations, and furthermore arguably one of the most elegant and practical.
214. PATEK PHILIPPE A so far unique, early, extremely important and attractive pink gold minute repeating wristwatch with perpetual calendar, moonphases, 24-hour indication, anthracite dial, Breguet numerals and Hagmann case
In 1989, Patek Philippe celebrated their important 150th anniversary by releasing a series of limited edition commemorative watches. Among them there was ref. 3974, a self-winding minute repeating perpetual calendar wristwatch intended to showcase the full extent of the company’s technical proficiency applied to wrist pieces. Elegant and playful at the same time, the reference featured a 2499-inspired three-piece 36mm case. Early examples - such as the present piece - were made by the legendary casemaker Jean-Pierre Hagmann, who stamped his hallmark beneath the bottom right lug. Later examples featured cases made by Atelier Reunis. Originally trained as a jeweller but more than renowned in producing watch cases - notably minute repeater cases for Patek Philippe - works of Mr. Hagmann are considered the ultimate tier when it comes to case quality and his name is today considered legendary, to the point that it is said - without substantiation - that repeating watches cased in JPH cases have a more pure sound.
Powering the complicated ref. 3974 is Patek Philippe’s selfwinding cal. 27RQ with an impressively thin thickness of just 6.8mm notwithstanding its total of 467 components, each movement certified with the Geneva seal. Production started with movement number 1’906’000, which has a permanent place in the Patek Philippe Museum, which means that the present lot bearing the number 1’906’076 is a very early example. Indeed, the Extract states the production year as 1992, early enough, as mentioned above, to bear a JHP case.
Produced from 1989 to 2002, it is believed that approximately 120 examples of the reference were produced across all metals including yellow gold, pink gold, white gold and platinum. While most examples were cased in yellow gold, no more than 20 examples in pink gold are thought to have been made, and so far only 6 are known from the market. It is easy to understand how, given such scarcity, a pink gold 3974 is always to be considered a serendipical occurrence for the collector. The present example pushes however the boundary much further as it features a unique anthracite dial with Breguet numerals, in addition to being the earliest pink gold example known. All other known examples feature silvered dials, as illustrated in the below summary:
PATEK PHILIPPE A so far unique, early, extremely important and attractive pink gold minute repeating wristwatch with perpetual calendar, moonphases, 24-hour indication, anthracite dial, Breguet numerals and Hagmann case
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 1992
Reference No. 3974
Movement No. 1’906’076
Case No. 2’867’098
Material 18K pink gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. R27Q, 39 jewels, stamped with the Geneva Seal
Bracelet/Strap Patek Philippe black alligator strap, Phillips anthracite suede strap
Clasp/Buckle 18K pink gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions 36mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 300,000-600,000 ∑
$305,000-610,000
€308,000-616,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in the present configuration in 1992 and its subsequent sale on July 16, 1993.
1’906’076 - Anthracite dial with Breguet numeralsthe present watch
1’906’078 - Silvered Gold dial with baton indexes -
Last seen: June 25th 2010
1’906’086 - Silvered Gold dial with baton indexes -
Last seen: March 15th 2006
1’906’087 - Silvered Gold dial with baton indexes -
Last seen: June 5, 2021
1’906’091 - Silvered Gold dial with baton indexes -
Last seen: March 28th 2007
There is no doubt that the watch was born in this condition as, beyond the presence of the Extract, the piece has also appeared at auction in 2003 complete with its original Certificate and accessories, where it was purchased by the current owner. Unfortunately, all the accessories have been lost during the delivery of the watch back in 2003.
Being without a doubt the most unusual, rare and collectible pink gold example of the model to ever appear at auction, the present so-far unique Patek Philippe ref. 3974 is a stellar example that would be one of the “crown jewels” of any of the world’s most important Patek Philippe collections.
There are certain Patek Philippe wristwatches that can be considered the ultimate in terms of rarity, desirability, and aesthetic beauty. The stainless steel chronograph reference 530 - the oversized version of the hallowed ref. 130 - is without any doubt one of these. With less than 10 steel examples having ever appeared at auction or in literature, it is no wonder they have achieved an almost mythical reputation in the hearts and minds of watch collectors.
The present example is indeed one of this incredibly restricted production, and it boasts a number of traits which classify it as one of the most collectible of the known steel 530. Not only the dial presents an alluring two-tone finish, with the brushed outer track boldly contrasting with the center of the dial. Furthermore, it presents the Hausmann retailer signature on the dial, another mark of distinction which will enthral the collector. And, finally, it also presents the highly unusual peculiarity - fully confirmed by the Extract - of featuring gold numerals and hands. Hardly ever a Patek Philippe not cased in gold or steel and gold features gold numerals, with this incredibly rare specimen being one of the few indisputable exceptions. Furthermore, the dial impresses the beholder with its incredible freshness. That is because it was masterfully restored by Patek Philippe, who brought it back to its original glory respecting to the micrometer the original specifications.
An incredibly accurate job - and respectful of the heritage of the piece - which could be done by no other but the original maker of the watch.
Compounding together its rarity, its attractiveness, the remarkable freshness of its dial and the definition of its case, the connoisseur will know without a doubt they are in the presence of a timepiece of gargantuan importance.
PATEK PHILIPPE
An incredibly rare and important stainless steel oversized chronograph wristwatch with two-tone dial, retailed by Hausmann & Co.
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 1941
Reference No. 530
Movement No. 862’698
Case No. 507’141, 5
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Manual, cal. 13’’’, 23 jewels, stamped with the Geneva Seal
Bracelet/Strap Patek Philippe alligator strap
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions 36.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 500,000-1,000,000 ∑
$508,000-1,020,000
€513,000-1,030,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production watch with raised hour markers in yellow gold and tachometer scale in 1941 and its subsequent sale on December 16, 1941.
Reference 530 was first launched in 1937, and remains one of the rarest chronograph models manufactured by the firm. In terms of its case size, reference 530 is substantially bigger than its sister reference 130, measuring nearly 4 mm larger. The proportions in terms of its diameter, thickness, and placement of its lugs are symmetrical and perfectly balanced, demonstrating the mastery of design that has earned Patek Philippe its position at the top echelon of watchmaking companies.
Interestingly, the stainless steel chronograph reference 530 is known to have been made in case variants that differ most notably in terms of the distance between the lugs. The first generation, predominantly made in the late 1930s and always seen with the sector dial design, features a 19mm gap between lugs, whereas the second version, exemplified by the present piece and made by Georges Croisier, boasted a substantial gap of 21.5mm giving the watch an even more prominent look. Patek Philippe produced yellow and rose gold versions of reference 530 for over two decades, but a very small number were manufactured in stainless steel during the 1940s – a period of wartime that made low-cost steel models more accessible. With so few existent in the world, and considering the present example’s combination of virtues that tick virtually every box for the discerning collector, it most certainly is a watch worthy of crowning the world’s most important collections.
Estimate
CHF
This superb white gold Day-Date is fitted with an incredibly attractive and very rare blue sodalite dial with diamond-set numerals. The deep blue “mottled pattern” surface of the sodalite dial - with no two dials being exactly the sameprovides perfect contrast for the white of the diamond-set numerals and gold case to truly shine. The calendar windows, like with all hard-stone dials, are framed in white metal.
Hardstone dials are among the most attractive and collectible dials to have ever found their way into the Day-Date line. Beyond the present sodalite, other stones have been employed by Rolex: onyx, malachite, marble, agate and jade are just some examples of this remarkable diversity.
Most interestingly, the present watch has the Rolex France logo stamped on the caseback, adding an element of interest to the timepiece.
217. ROLEX A rare and well-preserved white gold automatic wristwatch with center seconds, day, date, bracelet, Italian calendar, COSC certification, Guarantee and box
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1967
Reference No. 1803
Movement No. DD32559
Case No. 1’596’120
Model Name Day-Date
Material 18K white gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 1556, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K white gold Rolex president bracelet stamped “53” to the endlinks, max length 190mm Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Rolex deployant clasp stamped “2 67”
Dimensions 36mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 15,000-30,000
$15,200-30,500 €15,400-30,800
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex punched undated and unstamped Guarantee booklet, COSC certificate dated January 16, 1967, italian instruction booklet, numbers and price labels, fitted presentation box and outer packaging.
Rolex’s Day-Date is one of the most recognisable wristwatches today, and over the course of its 60-year history has been realized in all metal types and with different dial styles.
Originally intended as Rolex’s “luxury proposition” (and indeed originally available exclusively in precious metal, with few prototypes in steel known), it has evolved to incarnate in the mind of nearly every watch enthusiast the conjunction of power, elegance, precision, luxury, exclusivity and mechanical perfection Rolex is famous for.
The present example is presented in excellent condition and complete of all its original documents, including both COSC certification and Guarantee. As expected from a watch bearing Italian calendar discs, the piece was apparently sold in Italy, with both Guarantee and instruction booklet written in Italian.
Finally, even the original tiny paper labels bearing movement and case number and the price (706’000 Italian lire) are present. A rare gem for the completionism-inclined collector.
CARTIER A highly rare and attractive white gold single button chronograph wristwatch with certificate and presentation box
Manufacturer Cartier
Year 1998
Reference No. 2396
Case No. 0406CC
Model Name Tortue Monopoussoir CPCP
Material 18K white gold
Calibre Manual, 045 MC, 22 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Cartier deployant clasp
Dimensions 34mm Width and 43mm Length
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 20,000-40,000 ∑
$20,300-40,700
€20,500-41,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Cartier Certificat de Garantie Internationale dated November 17, 1998, product literature, CPCP presentation box and outer packaging.
One of the most emblematic and classic watch cases of the early 20th century is the Tortue. Designed by Louis Cartier in 1912, the rounded tonneau-shaped case was elegant and sophisticated and named “tortue à pattes” or “turtle on legs” both for its similarity to the animal’s shape and symbolism of good fortune and longevity. Cartier has long used the case since its introduction, and in 1998 they introduced their Cartier Privée Paris Collection (CPCP) Tortue Monopoussoir chronograph. The collection sought to bring modern watches to collectors who wanted a vintage look. Available from 1998 until 2008, the collection was based on their legendary designs that have made the brand so famous and sought after amongst collectors.
The first monopoussoir, or monopusher, chronograph was released by Cartier in 1928 and the modern edition remains close to the original, but with a larger, more contemporary case featuring the manual caliber 045MC, interestingly codeveloped by F. P. Journe, Denis Flageollet and Vianney Halter. The case has a classic look with the single button chronograph operated through the crown giving the watch a clean, uncluttered appeal.
The present watch is one of the most complete examples to ever come on the market. Not only accompanied by its original certificate dated 1998, it also comes with product literature on Cartier’s CPCP line and the original CPCP presentation box.
Manufacturer Audemars Piguet
Year 1998
Reference No. 25854ST
Movement No. 460’749
Case No. E8087, 009
Model Name Royal Oak Offshore Quantième Perpetuel Automatic
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 2226/2839, 54 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Royal Oak bracelet, max length 205mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Audemars Piguet double deployant clasp stamped “X4”
Dimensions 42mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 50,000-100,000
$50,800-102,000
€51,300-103,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Certificat d’Origine et de Garantie stamped by Italian retailer “Gioielleria Orologeria De Dominicis” and dated October 1998.
In response the quartz crisis of the late 1960s and early 1970s, Audemars Piguet released the Royal Oak wristwatch in 1972 as the world’s first stainless steel luxury sports watch with
fully integrated bracelet. In 1993, however, the Royal Oak design was 21 years old and while it is an unarguably timeless architecture - as demonstrated by the ever growing interest for the model - Audemars Piguet felt the need to update it with a more rugged, sporty and masculine version. Stephen Urquhart, then managing director of AP, tasked designer Emmanuel Gueit with the challenge. Gueit retained the Royal Oak classic design, but the original’s 39mm case diameter was enlarged to a 42mm diameter case: the Offshore was born. Its remarkable presence on the wrist took the market by surprise, once more revolutionising it, just as it had happened in 1972. The size and aggressive looks of the watch earned it the nickname “The Beast”. The new Offshore featured a chronograph and calendar mechanism, along with a prominent rubber gasket sandwiched between the bezel and case, and therban – a type of rubber - coated chronograph pushers and screw down crown. These elements enhanced the nautical theme of the Royal Oak model and over the ensuing years it has often been associated with sailing events. It is now today one of the pillars of AP offer.
The present watch is the more complicated and exclusive version of the model, featuring a prestigious perpetual calendar and moonphases indication in addition to the chronograph function.
Offered with its original Certificate and in excellent condition, this stainless steel example is a must have, equally enjoyable by both the novice watch enthusiast and the most jaded collector.
Manufacturer Rolex
Year 2021
Reference No. 228396TBR
Case No. 0XQ28222
Model Name Day-Date 40
Material Platinum and diamonds
Calibre Automatic, cal. 3156, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Platinum Rolex President bracelet, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle Platinum Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 100,000-200,000
$102,000-203,000
€103,000-205,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex guarantee dated June 6, 2021, hang tag, product literature, presentation box and outer packaging.
Rolex has created some of the most surprising, beautiful and unusual Day-Dates for the Arab States in the Gulf. The manufacture’s custom pieces date back to the 1950s, when Rolex fitted Arabic discs to the most luxurious Day-Date watches. Very few “Eastern Arabic” Day-Dates were produced
during this period, and the earliest examples were almost exclusively cased in platinum.
With the introduction of reference 1804, Rolex produced a Day-Date that completely differed from any “Arabic” Day-Date the firm had ever produced. The watch not only featured an Arabic Day and Date wheel, it even displayed applied Eastern Arabic numerals in lieu of regular Arabic numbers. The watch is named “Scheherazade”, and proudly displayed in Day-Date, The Presidential Rolex by Pucci Papaleo and sold at Phillips’ Glamorous Day-Date sale, lot 24.
Today, Rolex continues to dazzle and surprise, with its unusual and beautifully finished watches. It cultivates and sustains its successful relationship with the Arab States by producing a multitude of special order watches for the region. The present example, produced in exceedingly limited numbers and sold only by Middle East retailers, pays homage to the dazzling Arabic Day-Dates of the 1970s, most notably in its applied Eastern Arabic numerals, which is almost identical in design to the beloved vintage Arabic Day-Dates of the past. The watch is cased in platinum, a further nod to the original Day-Dates made for the region. As an added touch of glamour, the bezel is adorned with baguette cut diamonds.
Offered in near-pristine condition, it is furthermore accompanied by its full set of accessories.
Manufacturer
TAG HEUER A very original platinum
with an engine-inspired movement, number 007 of a limited edition of 150 pieces
2009
Reference No. WAW2170.FC6261
Case No. A8600007 with limited edition number 007/150
Model Name Monaco V4
Material Platinum
Calibre Automatic, 48 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Platinum Tag Heuer deployant clasp
Dimensions 39mm Length X 39.5mm Width
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 20,000-40,000
$20,300-40,700
€20,500-41,000
Accessories
Accompanied by International Guarantee card, limited edition certificate, user manual, fitted box and outer packaging
Tourbillons, minute repeaters and perpetual calendars come to mind when thinking of Haute Horlogerie, however, the present Tag Heuer Monaco V4 is a true testament to Haute Horlogerie not by the use of complications but by completely rethinking the movement structure.
Unveiled as a Concept Watch at BaselWorld 2004, the Monaco V4, is the first watch in the world to feature optimized mechanical transmission belts and a linear winding system with a movement to resemble an engine. A little known fact is that the great independent watchmaker Philippe Dufour participated in the creation of the original prototype.
Opening in on the dial side enable the viewer to admire the miniature belt transmissions, turn the case over and the engine inspiration becomes even more clear with a large tungsten ingot in the centre which is used to wind the watch and two pairs of barrels on each side and connected by belts.
Limited to 150 pieces in platinum, the present example bears a Bondian number 007.
AUDEMARS PIGUET
An exceptional, desirable and new platinum wristwatch with date, bracelet, certificate of origin, warranty, and presentation box, made to commemorate the 50th Anniversary of the Royal Oak
Manufacturer Audemars Piguet
Year 2022
Reference No. 16202PT.OO.1240PT.01
Movement No. BG0308
Case No. MR7180C
Model Name Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin “50th Anniversary”
Material Platinum
Calibre Automatic, cal. 7121, 33 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Platinum Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle Platinum Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions 39mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 100,000-200,000
$102,000-203,000
€103,000-205,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Royal Oak 50th Anniversary certificate of origin dated June 10, Paris, Audemars Piguet warranty card, instruction manual, product literature, hang tag, traveling leather box, outer packaging and fitted presentation box.
Launched earlier this year in January 2022, Audemars Piguet presented the new Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin, celebrating its 50th anniversary and ultimately replacing the reference 15202.
Among the new variants in stainless steel, yellow and pink gold,
an exclusive platinum version with green dial was launched that would solely be sold at the AP Houses around the world.
Among all the metals used in watchmaking, platinum is among the rarest. Thus, it is no surprise that Audemars Piguet scarcely uses this precious material for anniversary timepieces and limited editions; and this last iteration, reference 16202PT. OO.1240PT.01 is all that one could wish for and more.
A faithful homage to the original reference 5402 and the 20th anniversary model 14802, the present watch maintains the same case proportions, with the biggest changes being the new inhouse calibre 7121. It features an upgraded power reserve of 55 hours thanks to its larger mainspring barrel and is fitted with a new patented extra-thin quick-set date setting mechanism.
Fitted with a sapphire crystal display caseback, one can admire the special anniversary oscillating weight in 22K gold. The ‘50 years’ rotor will only be fitted to the Royal Oak anniversary models delivered in 2022, making this piece even more special.
The watch weighs more than 250 grams providing its wearer with great presence on the wrist. Unobtainable in the boutique and offered in NOS condition with its full sets of accessories, the present watch will become a crown jewel in its new owner’s collection.
All proceeds exceeding the cost for the consignor will be donated to charities supporting access to medical care for families in need and orphanages.
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
1995
Reference No. 3800/1P
Movement No. 3’020’616
Case No. 2’990’801
Model Name Nautilus
Material Platinum
Calibre Automatic, cal. 330SC, 30 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Platinum Patek Philippe bracelet max length 170mm
Clasp/Buckle Patek Philippe platinum folding clasp
Dimensions 37.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 70,000-140,000
$71,200-142,000
€71,800-144,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch with black dial, eleven diamond indexes and platinum bracelet in 1995 and its subsequent sale on 5 December 1997.
Launched in 1981, the reference 3800 was Patek Philippe’s smaller iteration of the original Nautilus reference 3700. Measuring a still substantial 37.5mm diameter, the reference 3800 is perhaps the perfect unisex wristwatch in modern times. The reference was manufactured with a wide array of case materials and dial variations, making it one of the most interesting luxury sports models manufactured by Patek Philippe to collect.
The present timepiece is most notably cased in platinum, the noblest of all metals. All hallmarks are crisp and visible and all contrasting satin and polished finishes are present. Platinum examples are particularly rarer than their yellow gold counter parts, making the present watch even more desirable among the Patek Philippe collecting community.
AUDEMARS PIGUET An attractive and extremely sought-after black ceramic perpetual calendar wristwatch with moonphases, week indication, leap year indication, bracelet and presentation box
26579CE
Black Ceramic
Manufacturer Audemars Piguet
Year Circa 2017
Reference No. 26579CE
Case No. J79684
Model Name Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Black Ceramic Material Ceramic
Calibre Automatic, cal. 5134, 38 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Ceramic Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle Ceramic Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions 41mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
CHF 180,000-360,000
$183,000-366,000
€185,000-369,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Audemars Piguet product literature and presentation box.
In 2017, Audemars Piguet once again took the horological world by surprise by presenting the perpetual calendar Royal Oak in full ceramic livery. While it was not the first time ceramic was
used in watchmaking, it marked the first time a high horology watch brand housed a sports watch in a full ceramic case and bracelet (a material that Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe do not use for the Overseas or Nautilus respectively).
Ceramic is an almost scratch proof material but very difficult to machine. According to Audemars Piguet, over 600 hours of research were necessary to develop the case and bracelet, and where it takes about six hours to machine, polish, hand-finish, and assemble a steel bracelet for a steel Royal Oak, the same procedure requires over thirty hours for the ceramic version.
The dashing dark looks of the watch should not deter from its elegance and technical complexity. The slender case houses the automatic caliber 5134 based on the iconic calibre 2120 as found in the original 1972 Royal Oak.
Other than the traditional calendar functions, the present Royal Oak has a 52-week indicator as well as a gorgeous moonphase display with a photorealistic moon on an aventurine background for the stars.
One of the hottest watches on the market, to obtain the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in ceramic requests patience as the waiting list can stretch to a few years.
Reference No. 1093/4
No.
Model Name Abysse 24 Heures
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Stainless
Dimensions
buckle
Length
Cédric Johner may not be a household name but he is part of the first pioneer independent watchmakers having created their eponymous brand. After a few years working in jewelry Johner set up his workshops in Geneva and presented his first wristwatch in 1997.
His approach to watchmaking merged both his horological and jewelry background. He remained traditional with his movements in their conception and presentation but his cases were delightfully creative, unusual and playful.
39mm
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle
Estimate
CHF 2,000-4,000
$2,000-4,100
€2,100-4,100
The present Abysse 24 Heures takes Johner’s signature case design and houses a very original 24 hour time display on a dial with carbon fiber centre and exploding numerals.
This watch takes us back to a time, when now-household names such as F.P. Journe or Roger Smith were experimenting, producing their very first prototypes, pushing the boundaries of watchmaking and re-defining the meaning of watchmaking. Industry veterans will look back at this golden period of horology as the cradle of Independent Watchmaking, with doses of both pride and nostalgia.
Manufacturer Laurent Ferrier
Year 2021
Movement No. 035
Model Name Classic Origin
Material Titanium
Calibre Manual, cal. LF116.01, 21 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Titanium Laurent Ferrier pin buckle
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 25,000-50,000
$25,400-50,800
€25,600-51,300
Accessories
Accompanied by Laurent Ferrier certificate dated 2nd April 2021, instruction manual, loupe, cloth, fitted presentation box and outer packaging.
Released in 2021, The Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin is created to commemorate the 10th year anniversary of the company as an independent watchmaker. The 40mm classic case, constructed with Grade 5 titanium is smooth and light at touch. The signature white gold Assegai-shaped hands elongate and cover quite elegantly the silvery-white opaline dial and the 18K white gold hour indexes present at 12 o’clock. The slate grey painted minute track contrasts with the burgundy-colored numerals, firmly giving to the watch an elegant and sophisticated attire. The thin baton shaped seconds hand, located at 6 o’clock is perfectly centered on the dial and features an equally burgundy-colored scale within a stepped down sub dial.
Turn the watch around, and through the open caseback you will realize the true potential the Classic Origin has to offer. Whilst the dial and Assagi-shaped hands give the watch a more subtle and classy look, Laurent Ferrier boldly chose to use Grade 5 titanium for their movement with micro blasted black rhodium finished bridges, shifting the “mood” of the watch to a very contemporary one. The timepiece is powered by the beautiful manual caliber LF116.01 with hours, minutes, and small seconds at 6 o’clock - the movement boasts a notable 80-hour power reserve.
This Classic Origin from 2021 is in pristine condition and comes with its full set of accessories. Highly collectible and a tasteful celebration of excellence, the timepiece will certainly impress the esteemed standards of watch connoisseurs.
Manufacturer MB&F
Year Circa 2016
Reference No. 03.WL.B
Case No. 03W63233
Model Name Legacy Machine Perpetual Calendar
Material 18K white gold
Calibre Manual, inhouse, 41 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold MB&F deployant clasp
Dimensions 44mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed.
Estimate
CHF 60,000-120,000
$61,000-122,000
€61,600-123,000
Accessories
Accompanied by undated and unstamped MB&F International Warranty, fitted box and outer packaging.
Just by looking at the watch one can see that the Legacy Machine Perpetual Calendar represents a horological firework.
Introduced in 2015, the Legacy Machine Perpetual Calendar offers significant improvements to eliminate the fragile drawbacks and gear jams tied to the conventional perpetual calendar mechanism. With a movement devised by Stephen McDonnell (an Irish independent watchmaker), an open-worked
dial designed by Eric Giroud, and a spectacular movement finished by none other than Kari Voutilainen, this is one of the most extraordinary avant-garde timepieces of the past years.
Awarded the Best Calendar Watch in GPHG 2016, the threedimensional architecture of the model exhibits a revolutionary in-house mechanism featuring 581 components. The mechanical processor uses an unusual 28-day architecture—as opposed to the traditional use of 31 days—and adds extra days as required without “skipping over” redundant days. This results in a fool-proof system that auto protects itself from incorrect manipulation.
The amazing movement, is not only impressively complex but beautifully hand finished, the dial side showing the wide array of gears, clicks, pinions and bridges with a 14mm flying balance wheel suspended above. The back side is also beautifully hand finished with perfectly aligned Geneva waves with interior and exterior polished angles.
Other than the calendar functions, a power reserve display and a leap year indication are playfully presented on retrograde scales. The white gold Legacy Machine Perpetual Calendar has now been discontinued and even though not a limited edition piece per se only 66 were ever made with the grey plate like the present example.
The present watch was serviced by MB&F in September 2022 and comes with a one year warranty.
Manufacturer
Model
Material
Calibre
Bracelet/Strap
Clasp/Buckle
Dimensions
Estimate
gold/titanium
and
Maximilian Büsser does not think out of the box, he thinks in a totally different universe and his extreme unabashedly and unapologetically creative timepieces speak for themselves.
The Horological Machine 3 was launched in 2009 and its shape, mechanical construction and time telling defy conventional nomenclature.
Time is read via two rotating cones placed on the right side of the case with hours and day/night indicated via the cone in front and the minutes indicated via the cone in the back. On the left is the date indicator and an open section enabling an uninterrupted view of the movement and rotor.
To achieve this, the 300+ component movement has been turned upside down. Turning the watch over reveals two large ceramic bearings efficiently transmit power up to the cones and date wheel.
Accompanied
Made in only 55 pieces the present Horological Machine 3 was serviced in September 2022 by MB&F and comes with a one year warranty. It is also accompanied by its full set of accessories.
Manufacturer Daniel Roth
Year Circa 1990
Movement No. N°20
Case No. 20
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, Cal 2220
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Daniel Roth pin buckle
Dimensions 38mm width X 41mm length
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 20,000-40,000
$20,300-40,700
€20,500-41,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Daniel Roth repair cerificate.
The importance of Daniel Roth in today’s success of independent watchmaking cannot be underscored enough. By creating his eponymous brand in 1987 after having worked at Audemars Piguet and creating what is contemporary Breguet, he was one the earliest master watchmakers who decided to go independent and put his vision and talent in a watch with his name on the dial.
He immediately created an unmistakable signature design with the ellipsocurvex case shape, hands with pointed tips and dials with a horizontal or Clous de Paris guilloché patterns.
Launched in the early 1990s, the present monopusher chronograph uses a vintage Lemania 15CHT or 2220 ebauche from the 1930s. Only 52 were made, 16 in platinum and 36 in yellow gold like the present example. 10 extra movements were later discovered and cased but can be differentiated with the original models as they featured a swan neck regulator.
The present monopusher chronograph was serviced by Daniel Roth himself in 2017 and in the accompanying letter states “It has been with much emotion and pleasure that I have repaired this watch because I am particularly fond of this model.”
F.P. JOURNE A rare, early and attractive pink gold wristwatch with eccentric time display, large date aperture, power reserve, certificate of authenticity and box
Manufacturer F.P. Journe
Year 2005
Case No. 666-A
Model Name Octa Réserve de Marche
Material 18K pink gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 1300, 32 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K pink gold F.P. Journe deployant clasp
Dimensions 38mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate
CHF 70,000-140,000
$71,200-142,000
€71,800-144,000
Accessories
Accompanied by F.P. Journe Certificate of Authenticity card stamped by F.P. Journe boutique in Paris, fitted box and outer packaging.
Literature
F.P. Journe Invenit et Fecit by Jean-Pierre Grosz is dedicated to Journe and his oeuvre.
The present Octa Reserve de Marche is an ultra rare example as it features a pink gold movement housed in a 38mm case as opposed to the habitual 40mm case.
The Octa Réserve de Marche is part of Journe’s founding models along with his signature Chronomètre à Resonance and Tourbillon Souverain.
Journe’s objective with the automatic caliber 1300 was to offer a movement with 5-day power reserve in which he could add extra complications without modifying its size which would remain 30mm in diameter and 5.5mm thick.
A precision chronometer is indicated on the movement’s engraved bridge - it was the first self-winding movement to provide 120 hours of power reserve and constant precision.
The Octa Réserve de Marche features all of the Journe signature elements that collectors have come to love, a gold dial with offset time indication on the right, a power reserve indicator covering a large part of the left section of the dial and a large date. Highly legible and balanced, the design aesthetic is pure F. P. Journe.
The Octa Réserve de Marche was made between 2001 and 2005 in a 38mm case. Whereas models made between 2001 and 2004 had brass movements, the later versions had pink gold calibers. The present Octa Réserve de Marche in pink gold is part of the ultra rare examples with a 38mm case but with a pink gold movement.
With a substantial surge in demand for F.P. Journe timepieces today, this is a great opportunity for collectors to acquire a discontinued example of one of the most iconic models manufactured by Journe.
F.P. JOURNE
A technically impressive and elegant platinum tourbillon wristwatch with white gold dial, guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer F.P. Journe
Year 2003
Case No. 251-03T
Model Name Tourbillon Souverain
Material Platinum
Calibre Manual, cal. 1498, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Alligator
Clasp/Buckle Platinum F.P. Journe pin buckle
Dimensions 38mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 250,000-500,000 ∑
$254,000-508,000
€256,000-513,000
Accessories
Accompanied by F.P. Journe Warranty, presentation box, product literature and outer packaging.
“Souscription” series: the client would pay a portion up front, without seeing the watch, and Journe would complete and deliver it at a later date.
Non content to create a horological masterpiece Journe set out to improve Breguet’s invention via the addition of a remontoir system - a constant force device used to provide an equal amount of energy disregarding the winding level of the mainspring, thus resulting in greater accuracy and amplitude. This was the very first time this system, invented by John Harrison for the H2 marine chronometer, was ever used in a wristwatch.
The 1st generation Tourbillon Souverain models with brass movements can be split into four series:
1st Series - Souscription (1999) 20 numbered examples in platinum
2nd Series (1999) estimated run of 17 examples in platinum with rounded remontoire bridge and addition of “Remontoire d’Egalité” on the dial
Journe’s interpretation of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s masterful invention of the tourbillon has catapulted his creations into the most esteemed and venerable collections worldwide. He completed his first tourbillon wristwatch, Tourbillon No. 1, in 1991, to little if any fanfare from the industry. He revisited his tourbillon wristwatch in 1999 to fund the launch of his own eponymous brand, taking again after Breguet by offering a
3rd Series (1999-2001) estimated run of 60 examples in platinum and pink gold, with flat remontoire bridge and larger power reserve numerals
4th Series (2001-2003) estimated run of 320 examples in platinum and pink gold, with smaller dial screws.
The present fourth generation example, numbered 251-03T dates from 2003 and features a rare silver dial.
Tourbillon Souverain Brass Movement 38mmRarely has a watchmaker singlehandedly so well represented a horological genre that has gone from being reserved for the cognoscenti, to a category that is boxing in the same heavyweight league as Philippe Dufour has.
Philippe Dufour exemplifies what we have collectively come to imagine as the typical Swiss watchmaker: a pipe-smoking solitary figure working in a small workshop in the Swiss mountains hand-making watches of incomparable beauty and quality infused with passion and love.
Philippe Dufour is all of the above and much more. An extremely talented and passionate watchmaker, he is an ardent defender of traditional watchmaking that he considers a dying art. A true living legend, his watches are considered masterpieces that collectors jealously treasure, making them extremely difficult to obtain.
The Simplicity was first presented in 2000 and was a break away from Dufour’s wonderfully complex mechanisms.
With this model, he wanted to demonstrate his unrivalled finishing techniques and to prove that simple could also mean sophisticated. Each watch, like all his other creations, was to be hand-finished and assembled by the master himself.
PHILIPPE DUFOUR An extremely rare and fine white gold wristwatch with guilloché dial, Breguet numerals, original certificate and presentation box
Manufacturer Philippe Dufour
Year 2020
Movement No. 204
Model Name Simplicity
Material 18K white gold
Calibre Manual, inhouse, 21 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Philippe Dufour pin buckle
Dimensions 37mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate
CHF 350,000-700,000
$356,000-712,000
€359,000-718,000
Accessories
Accompanied by fitted wooden box, International Guarantee and Certificate of Origin dated 2020 and outer packaging.
Literature
Philippe Dufour is prominently featured in Twelve Faces of Time: Horological Virtuosos by Elisabeth Doerr and Ralph Baumgarten pp. 10-25 and in Masters of Contemporary Watchmaking by Michael Clerizo pp. 72-91.
The Simplicity was originally presented in a 34 mm case and a larger 37 mm case was offered rapidly after. It was made in pink gold, white gold or platinum with a unique steel version known.
Dufour also created two dial types, one in white lacquer and the other with a hand-guilloché dial.
The world’s greatest collectors recognized a modern masterpiece and icon, and orders flooded in rapidly. Dufour’s quota of movements was rapidly reached, and those lucky enough to have been able to order a Simplicity had to wait long years before delivery. Everybody else had to wait for a piece to appear on the secondary market.
The present fresh to the market Simplicity features two rarer traits, first it is in white gold, a metal rarely seen for this model as it seems that collectors ordered mainly the platinum and pink gold examples.
Furthermore, the dial is slate grey with full Breguet numerals as opposed to the regular Arabic numerals at 3, 9 and 12 o’clock.
Finally, the numerals and the hands are pink gold whereas normally the color matches the case. These elements lead us to believe that the present Simplicity n° 204 is truly unique.
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De Bethune DB28TIS8NAD
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Omega 2998-1ST Speedmaster
Omega 145.012-68SP Speedmaster Professional, "Flightmaster Prototype"
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