Nestled on the border of the U.S. and Canada, Blaine by the Sea is more than a destination—it’s a celebration of connection. From the iconic Peace Arch to our vibrant dining scene, boutique shops, and lively community events, Blaine is where cultures blend and seaside fun is discovered. As the “Gateway to the Games” in 2026, we’re ready to welcome the world with open arms. Come for the charm, stay for the experience, and leave with a story to tell.
PUBLISHER’S
by Pat Grubb
nd the years roll on ... This issue marks the end of Mount Baker Experience’s 39th year of publishing –the next issue after this will be the beginning of its 40th year. It was started by Al and Nikki Magnusson and we took ownership in 1999. It’s changed over the years but perhaps not as much as its owners. Some things have not changed, though – it still features the best of the Pacific Northwest’s writers and photographers covering nature, sports and the recreational opportunities that surround us.
This issue you are holding right now is a good example – from geoducks to real ducks, we’ve got you covered, both word- and image-wise.
Speaking of geoducks, we dive deep into Puget Sound’s mudflats with “It’s Pronounced ‘Gooey-Duck’” – a fascinating look at hunting these giant clams during low tide. It’s a uniquely Northwest pursuit that perfectly captures the region’s quirky outdoor culture.
For those seeking urban adventure, “Victoria by bike and paddle” takes you through the waterways of Vancouver Island’s capital city, proving that wilderness experiences don’t always require leaving civilization behind. The piece beautifully weaves together cycling and paddling to showcase Victoria’s accessible outdoor opportunities.
We venture further into British Columbia’s backcountry with “Takla Lake Wilderness calls, deep in B.C.” – a remote destination that embodies the untamed spirit of the northern wilderness. It’s exactly the kind of place that reminds us why we fell in love with this region’s endless capacity for adventure.
As always, our contributors have delivered stories that celebrate both the familiar and the unexpected corners of the Pacific Northwest. From the muddy shores of Puget Sound to the pristine waters of remote B.C. lakes, this fall issue captures the diverse landscapes and experiences that make our corner of the world so extraordinary.
We end on a bittersweet note. Since 2012, this magazine has had as its mascot an Australian Shepherd named Shuksan after the mountain. Many of our readers have met him up at the mountain – a perpetual teenager and a dead ringer for a Bernese Mountain Dog, he was a loyal and faithful friend to the end. After a short illness, he left us in August, no doubt looking for another bone to bury. He will be remembered.
VICTORIA BY BIKE & PADDLE
Newsroom Notes
Bellingham Exit Festival announces 2025 music lineup
The multi-stage, multi-day, multi-sensory Bellingham Exit Festival is back for its final edition, with an exciting lineup and an array of experiences sure to captivate festivalgoers. Set around multiple venues throughout the heart of Bellingham from October 8 to 12, this year’s event promises to be bigger and better than ever before, offering a weekend of live music, art, culture, and community.
big and small from around the region
This year’s festival will showcase an eclectic mix of performers spanning multiple genres, from indie rock to electronic beats. Headlining the event are acts like singer-songwriters Lucinda Williams and Joy Oladokun, alt-country act Amigo the Devil, comedian Demetri Martin, and R&B powerhouse Black Joe Lewis & The Honeybears. The week of live shows is sure to draw fans from all over the Pacific Northwest. In addition to these headliners, Exit will continue into October with shows from various local bands at the Wild Buffalo and Blue Room.
Bellingham Exit attendees can explore immersive art installations, interactive experiences, and diverse food vendors that reflect the local culture and vibe. The festival will also feature sustainability initiatives, ensuring that this event leaves a positive impact on the environment.
Beyond the performances and exhibits, the festival’s location in Bellingham provides attendees with stunning views and easy access to outdoor adventures, including hiking, cycling, and exploring the nearby coastlines.
Bellingham Rotary Club hosts Mountainfilm fundraiser
Mountainfilm On Tour returns to Whatcom Community College on Saturday, November 15, to celebrate the power and spirit of the great outdoors.
This year’s film festival will benefit the Rotary Club of Bellingham, and will feature an array of short films.
The evening of films kicks off at 7:15 p.m. and concludes at 10 p.m., at WCC’s Syre Theatre, 237 W. Kellogg Road. Doors open at 6 p.m.
While this year’s lineup of films has yet to be announced, last year’s films were an eclectic mix, covering topics like disability awareness in the climbing community, the story of the Boston Marathon’s first female runner, and a group of Afghan women who picked up rock climbing after escaping the Taliban.
The Rotary Club of Bellingham has contributed more that $4 million to non-profits in the community and around the world since 1985, and focuses on funding youth programs, scholarships, and hands-on service projects.
MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE
Since 1986
Special publication of The Northern Light and All Point Bulletin
PUBLISHERS
Patrick Grubb and Louise Mugar
EDITOR
Nolan Baker
PUBLICATION DESIGN
Doug De Visser
COPY EDITOR
Grace McCarthy
ADVERTISING DESIGN
Ruth Lauman • Doug De Visser
ADVERTISING SALES
Gary Lee • Molly Ernst
CONTRIBUTORS IN THIS ISSUE:
Andrew Grubb, Jason Hummel, Chuck Kinzer, Jay Nolan, Matthew Tangeman, Matt Shannon
EMAIL: info@pointrobertspress.com
WEB: www.mountbakerexperience.com
FACEBOOK: facebook.com/mtbakerexperience
TWITTER: twitter.com/MB_Experience
INSTAGRAM: instagram.com/mtbakerexp
If you can see Mt. Baker, you’re part of the experience. Mount Baker Experience is an outdoor recreation guide for and about the Mt. Baker region, distributed from Seattle to Vancouver, B.C. and published by Point Roberts Press, Inc. Locally owned, the company also publishes TheNorthernLight, All Point Bulletin, Pacific Coast Weddings, Waterside and area maps.
ON THE COVER Fall adventures in the North Cascades with the little ones.
MBE fall 2025
CONTRIBUTORS
RADKACHAPIN
Radka Chapin is an avid alpine climber and backcountry skier who never leaves the house without her camera.
ERINDEINZER
Erin Deinzer has worked as a copywriter, travel writer, and editor, and would one day like to ghostwrite an autobiography. As a recently-minted PNW resident, she enjoys exploring her adopted home as well as off-the-beaten path destinations around the world.
ETHANFRITZBERG
Originally from Seattle and now based in Bellingham, Ethan is a lifelong photographer and avid watersports enthusiast. When he’s not out wing foiling in Bellingham Bay, you can find him around the harbor with his dog, Ranger.
JASONGRIFFITH
Jason is a fisheries biologist who would rather be on a summit than down by the river. When he isn’t fiddling with his camera in the mountains, he lives in Mount Vernon with his wife and two boys.
ERICLUCAS
Eric Lucas lives on a small farm on San Juan Island, where he grows organic hay, beans, squash and apples – and watches Victoria in the distance from his kitchen window. He is the author of numerous travel guidebooks, and is a regular correspondent for Alaska Airlines Beyond magazine.
ROCKYMCCANN
I am a wildlife photographer based out of Prince George, B.C. and copyright my photos under the name Takla Wilderness Images. I split my time between northern B.C. and the national parks of Jasper and Banff. I enjoy winter photography the most and I am often seen coming out of the bush on snowshoes pulling a sled with all my gear.
AUDRA LEEMERCILLE
Audra Lee Mercille is a Pacific Northwest-based freelance adventurer. She found photography as a way to display her love and gratitude for the mountains and landscapes that inspire her.
Tony is a freelance writer who loves to get out and explore the world with his family. He shares his journey @adventurewithinreach and tonymoceri.com TONYMOCERI
JASONHUMMEL
Jason is an outdoor photographer from Washington who has documented numerous first descents in the North Cascades.
MICHAELIMPERO
Michael G. Impero has lived his whole life in Whatcom County, and has acquired a vast knowledge of the upper North Fork of the Nooksack River. He has written numerous books on the history of the region, including “The Lone Jack” (2007), “Dreams of Gold”
DAVESUMMERS
Addicted to altitude, business, adventure. Photographer, athlete, explorer, businessman. @davesummertimes
Photo byAudra Lee Mercille.
Newsroom
Continued from page 5
Outdoor Research opens new outlet store in Fairhaven
Outdoor enthusiasts in Bellingham have reason to celebrate as Outdoor Research opens its newest outlet store in the city’s historic Fairhaven District. Located at 1501 12th St., this location marks a significant milestone for the well-known outdoor gear brand, bringing quality equipment and apparel closer to the
Mt. Baker community.
The new store, which opened its doors this July, offers a wide range of outdoor gear for activities like hiking, climbing, skiing, and more – making it a one-stop shop for both seasoned adventurers and newcomers. Visitors can expect discounted prices on high-performance products from a brand renowned for its commitment to durability and sustainability.
Fairhaven, with its charming cobblestone streets and proximity to outdoor recreation, provides the
perfect setting for the new store. Located near the Bellingham waterfront and abundant parks, it’s the ideal location for the local outdoor community to access top-tier gear and apparel.
The grand opening event was met with excitement, featuring exclusive deals, giveaways, and a chance to meet local outdoor enthusiasts.
Outdoor Research, a company committed to both innovation and environmental responsibility, has been an advocate for promoting outdoor
activities while minimizing environmental impact.
For Bellingham residents and visitors alike, the opening of this outlet store adds a convenient and affordable option for accessing premium outdoor gear. Whether you're gearing up for a weekend hike or preparing for an epic climb, the new Outdoor Research store is sure to be a go-to destination in the heart of Fairhaven.
The store is open Monday through Saturday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Continued on page 8
Newsroom Notes big and small from around the region
Continued from page 7
Accomplished climber dies on North Cascades peak
Ross James Wallette, a respected adventure photographer and climbing guide, died on August 18, after a tragic fall while ascending Mount Fury in Washington’s North Cascades. He was 43.
Wallette, of Kennewick, was climbing with a partner when a handhold unexpectedly gave way near a feature known as “The Finger,” at roughly 8,100 feet elevation. He fell an estimated 200 to 300 feet, officials said. His climbing partner immediately activated an SOS beacon, and a helicopter was dispatched around 5:45 p.m., but Wallette could not be saved by paramedics.
Known for his artistry behind the camera and deep love of the mountains, Wallette had recently completed the Bulger List – summiting the 100 highest peaks in Washington – and was featured in the 2024 documentary “100 Summits: Bulgers in a Season.” He was scheduled to shoot a story for Outdoor Magazine on Mount Rainier later that same week, according to his social media.
In addition to his professional accomplishments, Wallette was a husband and father. He leaves behind his wife and young daughter.
Mount Fury, deep within North Cascades National Park, is known for its remote and technical terrain. Wallette’s death is a somber reminder of the risks even experienced climbers face in the mountains.
As tributes continue to pour in from across the mountaineering and photography worlds, Wallette is being remembered not only for what he achieved, but for the way he lived – with purpose, humility, and awe for the natural world.
A memorial service for Wallette was held in Richland, Washington on August 29, according to Wallette’s social media.
“From the bottom of our hearts, thank you to everyone who loved, laughed and celebrated a truly amazing husband, father, son, brother, uncle, grandson, friend, photographer, guide, peak bagger, musician, and follower of Jesus,” Wallette’s family wrote in a social media post.
This fall was the second highly publicized fatal climbing accident in the North Cascades this year. Three Seattle-area climbers died after a May 10 fall during a descent of the Early Winters Spires.
Mt. Baker Hill Climb sold out
The highly anticipated 2025 Mt. Baker Hill Climb, scheduled for Sunday, September 14, has officially sold out. A total of 450 cyclists will tackle the challenging 22-mile route from Chair 9 in Glacier, Washington, to the summit at Artist Point–a grueling ascent with over 4,462 feet of elevation gain through sweeping alpine switchbacks.
Organized by the volunteer nonprofit Whatcom Events, the Mt. Baker Hill Climb continues to gain national recognition. In 2025, it was ranked the number one hill climb in the United States and number eight gran fondo in North America by Gran Fondo Guide.
Riders can expect full road closures along State Route 542 to ensure a safe event. Snowater Road to Artist Point will be closed from 7:00 a.m. to 9:00 a.m., followed by Canyon Creek Road to Artist Point from 9:00 a.m. to 12:00 p.m. Cyclists are grouped into three start waves: Social at 7:00 a.m., Recreational at 8:00 a.m., and Competitive at 8:30 a.m. E-bikes are welcome in the Social category.
Participants should plan ahead for logistics. Packet pickup will be available in Bellingham and at Chair 9 Pizza the day before the event. There is limited cell service near Glacier, and a $5 Northwest Forest Pass is required for parking at Artist Point. Shuttle services (the Baker Bus) will be available for rider descent and gear transport, though cyclists are responsible for their own bikes.
With its steep climbs, striking mountain views, and strong community spirit, the 2025 Mt. Baker Hill Climb promises to be a memorable experience for everyone involved.
Continued on page 10
FUNDRAISER WINTER START OF WINTER
and the Mt Baker Volunteer Association (includes Volunteer Ski Patrol, Mountain Hosts, Aid Room and Event Volunteers) for a fun evening to support efforts ensuring the safety and enjoyment of all visitors to the Mt Baker Ski Area. Great food, beer, and lots of chances for adventure gear and other incredible raffle and silent auction prizes benefitting the Mt Baker Volunteer Association.
Newsroom
Continued from page 8
Recreation Northwest offers geocaching at Hundred Acre Wood
Fairhaven Park, located in Bellingham, WA, is offering a thrilling new way to explore its scenic trails and lush forests: the Geocaching Adventure Lab. This interactive experience is part of a growing trend that blends outdoor recreation with technology, and it’s available now for adventurers of all ages to enjoy.
Organized by Recreation Northwest, the Geocaching Adventure Lab at Hundred Acre Wood invites participants to embark on a treasure huntlike adventure. Geocaching is a popular outdoor activity where players use GPS coordinates to hide and seek containers, known as "caches," in a variety of outdoor locations. The Adventure Lab takes this activity to the next level, offering a more immersive experience that combines clues, puzzles, and historical trivia about the park’s unique landscape.
The event is part of a larger initiative to engage the local community with outdoor activities while promoting physical activity, environmental awareness, and a sense of connection to nature. Participants can explore the park's diverse ecosystems, from wooded paths to serene meadows, all while solving challenges and discovering hidden "gems."
Geocaching enthusiasts and newcomers alike can download the Adventure Lab app on their smartphones to start their journey. The app provides step-by-step directions, puzzles, and hints to guide explorers along the route. Not only is this a fun activity for individuals, but it’s also a perfect family outing or a team-building experience for friends and colleagues.
The Geocaching Adventure Lab offers a unique way to appreciate the natural beauty of Fairhaven Park while engaging in an exciting, technology-enhanced adventure. So, grab your smartphone and get ready to uncover the hidden secrets of this local treasure.
Victoria by bike & paddle
BY ERIC LUCAS
Kingfishers flash along saltwater shallows, chittering the staccato song their prey apparently cannot hear. Baitfish rustle the surface like tiny painters with stiff-bristle brushes. Ancient oaks and willows lean out over the water from low-rise bluffs. Gulls circle overhead and herons prowl the shallows.
This kayak trip might be almost anywhere in the thousands of miles of shoreline waters along Vancouver Island – but this morning's paddle is in the middle of the island’s biggest metropolis, Victoria, population: 400,000. It exemplifies the city’s awesome recreational character, one that is as easily available to visitors as to residents.
My wife Nicole and I left a rental dock near the city’s inner harbor floatplane base at 9 a.m., heading northwestward into the backwater bays and channels of the waters known as The Gorge – so named because after traversing a couple large inner bays, the route turns to a narrow channel between bluffs lined with quiet neighborhood homes.
About a mile up the inlet, a narrow defile holds a tidal cataract that reverses twice a day, a mini-version of the famous Skookumchuck Narrows 50 miles north. Best that amateur paddlers consult tide charts and time their journey to pass during
Though you’re passing by residential neighborhoods, the homes are up high rather than at shoreline, so the impression is that of a far more remote locale. Not a spruce-lined backwater inlet in Clayoquot Sound, but not Seattle’s Montlake Cut either.
slack times; or simply stop here, gawk at the sight and head back. Urban wonders await you afterward, but more on that in a moment.
Halfway up The Gorge paddle route you pass right under the second crown jewel in Victoria's
outdoor panoply, the Galloping Goose trail. Here it’s a low-lying trestle crossing a small bay just before the start of the actual Gorge. On the trestle, bikers, walkers, runners and skaters are heading out for a modest stroll or awesome adventure, one that calls us the morning after our Gorge paddle.
But first, a mandatory stop at a crucial Victoria cultural institution located right across the street from the trailhead.
“Are you sure this is a good idea?” my wife asks as the Fol Epi organic bakery server hands us a couple of lemon cream butter tarts, their take on the signature Canadian pastry that is as much better than an American cinnamon roll as a ribeye is better than chuck steak. Same culinary mission, infinitely better vehicle.
“Carbs are the gasoline of exercise,” I remind Nicole.
“Carbs may be the rocket fuel, but butterfat is the long-term lubrication of your metabolism," the server adds, noticing our bike helmets. “Heading out on the Goose?”
The “Goose,” as it’s known colloquially, follows an old railroad line from downtown Victoria out toward Sooke. The gentle grade necessary for logging trains in the 19th century is a great boon to mainstream riders today; the 40-mile trail passes from urban center into suburbs, then over tumbling creeks and along quiet maple and alder
woods, winding up in the foothills at Sooke Potholes Regional Park. A hardcore summer ride would bring dedicated riders here, to one of the Northwest’s best swimming holes, deep pools of clear mountain water that stay cool no matter the heat of summer. Plunge in the early afternoon of a hot day, and you're ready to hustle back to Victoria in the cool of evening. For those who want to savor the journey and divide it in two, several inns along the trail and in Sooke cater to bicycle travelers.
But one need not trek nearly that far to reach the pastoral countryside west of Victoria. A good two-hour morning ramble brings you far outside the city; sheep graze in golden pastures and hawks prowl the skies above; then two hours back and you're ready to savor the urban delights that Victoria offers.
If you've been on the Goose, you might – in fact, you should – head across the Johnson Street bridge to Victoria’s compact, one-street Chinatown for a dim sum feast at Don Mee, a splendid venue for these matchless Cantonese treats that range from savory to sweet. A proper dim sum repast leaves no room for dinner later, but that doesn’t mean one cannot stop back by Fol Epi for a late afternoon dessert.
For paddlers, upon return to the dock in the Inner Harbour, the mandatory stop here is Red Fish Blue Fish, purveyor of the finest fish & chips in North America. I am paid to know these things; the tempura-battered wild B.C. salmon is unmatched.
These awesome amenities, paths and provender, are here first of all because of Victoria's unique geography. It’s a major oceanside metro area whose exurban environs include large areas of field and forest not far from the city center; the foothills of the island’s Central Range reach close to the city.
This also represents Victoria’s 21st century identity. Long considered a fusty, rusting old outpost of what was once the British Empire—150 years ago, clipper ships hauling tea from Asia docked in the inner harbor—B.C.’s capital was once derided as the home of the “newly wed or nearly dead.” No more – the city is a vibrant mecca for young technology and government workers, and its coffee shops, pubs and cafes thrum with life, not to mention its recreation pathways.
Few, if any, other cities offer similar experiences.
And what does “Fol Epi” mean? Crazy wheat head, says the bakery. Chew on that, literally, as you're paddling or pedaling or even just strolling along, lacking neither space to roam nor fuel to do so. x
Eric
Towns of the North Fork Nooksack River
BY MIKE IMPERO
Michael Impero's most recent two-volume book, “Towns of the North Fork Nooksack River” is full of information about the towns and surrounding areas of the North Fork of the Nooksack River in Whatcom County.
Volume one focuses on the communities of Kendall and Maple Falls- covering such topics as the Kendall Creek Salmon Hatchery, Keese town, the Zender family, Silver Lake, along with chapters on local schools, cemeteries and churches.
Volume two includes chapters on the Bottiger and Bourn families, the forgotten gold mines, the logging industry, Heather Meadows and the Nooksack powerhouse.
Impero is a born-and-raised member of the Whatcom County foothills, and has studied and documented its deep history, always with an eye for the humorous, the interesting, and the stories that remind us of home, no matter where we are.
Impero has written extensively on Whatcom County history, with books like “The Grand Lady of Mount Baker: A History of Mount Baker Lodge From 1927-1931,” “The Boys of Glacier,” and “Dreams of Gold: History of the Mount Baker Mining District.”
These two volumes, along with Mike's other books can be purchased from Village Books in Bellingham or online through Amazon. x
Nine Zender Brothers of Kendall: These brothers made up the Deming Loggers Baseball Team during the 1940s and 1950s. Jacob, the father of the boys, is center in the back row. In the picture it appears that the brothers are preparing for a cow pasture ball game. (Bays to Bells by Holsather and Gannaway)
Glass Art by Art Hohl
Ria Nickerson with her kiln
vessel by Sue McCaslin
Jerry Bourne's Coffee Cup: A few years before Jerry's death, a woman came calling to his cabin at Shuksan and was interested in taking a picture of him. The picture was to be used in marketing coffee cups. This is the portrait, although no coffee cups ever materialized.
Excelsior Big Stope: The big stope refers to a very large minedout area inside the mountain. The rock here is so hard that there is no need for shoring. This picture is in the Excelsior Gold Mine. This is a time delay photo. (G. Mustoe)
“The Deer Hunter” is one of the movies that was filmed in Heather Meadows. In this picture Robert DeNiro is stalking a deer. Picture taken at Artist Point (photographer unknown).
ually works against you by caving in and filling with water (that’s where the can comes in). A geoduck’s shell can grow up to nine inches long, but its body is so large and the neck so long, the animal can’t retract into its own shell.
“It takes time for them to show,” John told us. “That's when their neck extends a little bit above the surface of the beach. It doesn't usually happen until after the low ebb, when the tide starts coming back in.”
It’s Pronounced “Gooey-Duck”
This is no ordinary clam. Its scientific name, Panopea generosa, gives a hint: something large … something very large. I've dug clams since I was a kid, but I'd never dug Panopea generosa, better known as the “Geoduck” (pronounced “Gooey-Duck”) which, whatever the pronunciation, is not a duck, it’s the largest burrowing clam in the world.
The geoduck is known as the “king clam,” and the “elephant clam.” When translated literally from Mandarin, it is the “elephant-trunk clam,” which seems pretty descriptive. The name actually comes from the Nisqually people’s language, “gweduc,” meaning “dig deep.”
When my brother John asked me if I wanted to come “dig ducks” with him I jumped at the chance. My brother is the right person to dig geoducks alongside. John knows where to find them, how to dig them, and he possesses the proper geoduck-digging tools. Best of all, John can tell the difference be-
tween a geoduck and its much less desirable cousin, the horse clam –also called a gaper clam – which is known for its tough meat.
“It's a lot of work,” my brother reminded me, “so be sure to bring some young people with you.” I brought my daughter and John brought his two kids for this labor-intensive exercise.
Geoduck hunting takes some advance planning: you are governed, of course, by the tides, and you must find one of the lowest tides of the year, as well as know the best beaches to dig. Native to Pacific Coast waters from Alaska to Baja California, the geoduck is typically found in inland waters, not along the coast. This monster clam is prolific in Puget Sound – and long lived.
Panopea generosa is among the longest living animals around, with a typical lifespan of 140 years (the oldest recorded geoduck was 179 years). It helps that it has few natural predators, and that about 90 percent of geoducks are sub-tidal, so even on the lowest tide they never
see the light of day; they’re too deep. Geoducks have been found in Puget Sound waters as deep as 360 feet. Believe it or not, geoducks account for an enormous amount of biomass in Puget Sound waters. They make up an estimated 100 million pounds of the living material in the Salish Sea.
An early summer morning of blue skies and cotton ball clouds greeted us when I met my brother at the Sequim Bay Marina. The five of us loaded John’s boat with shovels, boots, buckets, and a wide, bulky cylindrical aluminum tube – we called it the “geoduck can” – then boated out to the tide flats at Jamestown. Tides must be at least minus two feet to harvest geoducks, and our plan that morning was to dig during the 10 a.m. tide, a particularly low one at minus 3.2 feet.
Geoducks are strange looking creatures: they have a very long siphon, or “neck,” which can extend up to three feet. This means you'll be digging in three feet of wet, muddy sand, while the hole you dig contin-
Approaching Jamestown, we motored in as close to the shore as we could and dropped anchor. Hopping out of the boat, the five of us walked in shallow water the rest of the way to the exposed tide flats. Although I’d visited this beach before, the scene before me seemed otherworldly. It felt strange, walking over a massive section of exposed seafloor. I stepped around green seaweed, brown seaweed, and little shallow pools of seawater reflecting blue sky.
“Let’s start by roaming around the beach and trying to spot the exposed end of the geoduck’s siphon,” John instructed us. We all spread out, walking in random directions, heads down while breathing in the salty air. “The trick is knowing the difference between a geoduck siphon and a horse clam siphon,” John said.
“Dad, here’s one!” his son or daughter would shout, pointing excitedly.
“No, that’s a horse clam,” John invariably answered, “but keep looking.”
I spent the next twenty minutes walking around the beach, head down, and came to the conclusion that a geoduck siphon and a horse clam siphon look an awful lot alike. Both have a long neck, are greenish brown in color, and possess two openings at the end.
“Nope,” John told me, as I pointed to what I was sure was a geoduck.
“No, that’s not one either,” John explained a few minutes later. “Sorry, that's another horse clam.”
After the fourth or fifth mis-sight-
STORY AND PHOTOS BY MIKE NOLAN
ing, my ever-patient brother observed, “There are plenty of horse clams here on the beach.” Smiling, he added, “But you want to dig geoducks today, right?” John had his shellfish license, permitting him to dig three geoducks (because of their size, I’d be happy to get one). It was reassuring having my brother with me to point out what is, and what is not, a geoduck siphon, because when we finally did identify a geoduck (John spotted it), I didn't think it really looked any different than all those horse clam siphons I had spotted. But we grabbed our shovels, confident that John was right.
As the suspected geoduck retracted its siphon, my brother marked the spot with a little flag, and we commenced digging a hole around the flag. Steamer clams are typically three or four inches deep in the sand, and one scoop of the shovel is your usual size “clamming hole.” Panopea generosa, however, required two of us to dig a much wider hole, more like a foxhole, which seemed appropriate because it felt as though we were going into battle with this behemoth bivalve.
As we continued to dig, the hole got deeper and wider, until John was ready for the can. John Jr. fetched it and my brother centered it on the hole. Retrieving the small flag, John scooped out the sand in the middle by hand, and worked the can as far into the sand as possible. Then John Jr. steadied himself with a hand on his dad’s shoulder, and hopped up on the can, rocking it back and forth in an effort to make it go deeper still. Once we had the can into the sand as far as possible, everyone dug out the sand inside it. Occasionally, we'd stop digging and my brother would get down on his hands and knees, lean into the hole, and gently feel around the sand in the center, seeing if he could feel the retracted siphon.
“Nothing…” John said each time, straightening up. “This one’s deep.” John stretched his back, then nodded and said, “Let’s keep digging.” Shoveling wet sand out of a metal can is tiring, so we took turns relieving one another.
After another twenty minutes my brother – this time down in the hole with his head, shoulders, and arms, his shirt and trousers thoroughly soaked – still couldn’t reach the elusive creature. Our can retained the sides of the hole, but at this point we had dug deeper than the can’s length, and the bottom of the hole began to collapse and accumulate water. John straightened up, glanced at the gradually creeping tide, and shook his head. It became apparent to everyone that this was a losing proposition: as sometimes happens in fishing, the big one got away.
We pulled out the can (which required more digging, this time on the outside of the can), and eventually got around to filling the hole back in. Then we all went back to searching for siphons. Heads down, we wandered randomly over the vast tidal flats, stepping around rocks, clamshells, seaweed that look like wilted lettuce, and the occasional red rock crab which scampered out of the way as seagulls called out overhead.
Wild commercial harvesting involves underwater divers in a year-round fisheries business, co-managed by the state and tribal authorities. Underwater, commercial fishers use tools including a high pressure water hose to clear seabed sand around the geoduck’s neck. Even with a high pressure hose, it’s still
a lot of work.
The reward is delicious, if unusual, seafood. My brother and I love it in chowder, fritters, or as deep fried clam strips.
The payoff is also the price commanded by fresh geoduck. Purchased at Pike Place Market, geoducks can cost $30-$40 a pound. This is a bargain compared to China, where geoducks can cost four or five times that at high-end restaurants.
Washington is a major player in the global geoduck market. Commercial harvesting in The Evergreen State and British Columbia is an $80 million industry, according to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Adminsitration.
Asia is a thriving seafood market, with exports going to Japan, South Korea, and especially to China where geoduck is considered a delicacy. In addition to its culinary popularity, Panopea generosa is regarded by some in Asia as an aphrodisiac, thought to enhance fertility, apparently due to its phallic shape. Of course, restaurants need these creatures to be fresh. Puget Sound geoducks harvested in the morning are in refrigerated airplane containers by evening, arriving in China the next morning. Distributed live in saltwater tanks, “From tideland to tabletop,” the elephant trunk clam can command prices ranging from $100 to $150 (or more) per pound in fine dining establishments.
Expensive, elusive, and strangely suggestive, Panopea Generosa is the most impressive clam in the Pacific Northwest, but it’s still an odd looking creature leading a leisurely, slow paced existence. While it sits there in the mud, harvesting geoducks, commercially or recreationally, is a lot of work. You have got to dig deep.
My daughter spotted the next geoduck siphon, and once John confirmed it really was a geoduck, we all gathered around and commenced digging. Deeper… wider… and eventually in went the geoduck can, which John Jr. again balanced on top of. We were further from the approaching tideline, which afforded us more time as we all took turns digging. When we dug to the length of the can, my brother laid down on the mud flat again, his torso fully in the can. John gingerly maneuvered his hands in and around the center of the hole, his fingertips touching siphon and, further down, shell. “I think we’ve got us a geoduck,” he said, three feet deep into the sand and swiveling his neck around to look up at us. His announcement was greeted with exhausted smiles all around. Slowly, carefully, John pushed his fingertips deeper still, until they were all the way around the shell, and then he gradually lifted the geoduck out of the sand. John’s efforts were met with a group cheer. Filling the hole back in, my brother observed, “When you've dug eighty percent of the hole, you've accomplished about twenty percent of the work.” As we trudged back to his boat, geoduck trophy in hand, a noisy flock of seagulls passed overhead. Two gulls swooped down to see what they could scavenge while we walked away.
During the boat ride home, John and I exchanged triumphant smiles. Over the sound of the motor, he said, “That was fun. I enjoyed it. But I am a little sore.”
“Me, too,” I said in complete agreement.
Then John added, “Digging for geoducks is a young person’s game.” x
Page 20: From left, Spencer Arps mountain biking on a wet and misty fall day on Scorpion, Galbraith Mountain. Brett Donohue mountain biking Cougar Ridge in Sudden Valley, Washington at sunrise. Photos by Colin Wiseman.
Page 21: From top, September adventure near the peak of Mt. Baker. Photo by Audra Lee Mercille. Preparing a meal near Nohokomeen Glacier, Jack Mountain, North Cascades. Photo by Jason Griffith.
Page 22: From top: Sunset on the Olympic Peninsula. Riding the waves on the Olympic Peninsula. Photos by Colin Wiseman.
Page 23: Clockwise from top left: Home in the hills. Ridgeline camping in August, 2024. Shuksan sunrise. Night owl camping under the Northern Lights. Photos by Audra Lee Mercille.
Page 24: Clockwise from top: Looking south to Mt. Baker from Church Mountain. Photo by Andrew Grubb. October paddleboard on Colchuck Lake, Washington. Photo by Audra Lee Mercille. Kite surfing in Squalicum Harbor. Photo by Ethan Fritzberg. Page 25: From top, sun shines through the clouds above Mt. Baker. Photo by Radka Chapin.
A baby grizzly bear rustles through the tall grass. Photo by David Summers.
Page 26: From top: September moonlight on Mt. Baker. Photo by Audra Lee Mercille. Evening campfire on Rialto Beach, Olympic National Park. Photo by Jason Griffith.
Page 27: From top: Everyone needs a companion on a hike through the North Cascades. Photo by Radka Chapin. Brett Donohue mountain biking Cougar Ridge in Sudden Valley, Washington at sunrise. Photo by Colin Wiseman.
Page 28: From left: Spencer Arps mountain biking on a wet and misty fall day. Scorpion, Galbraith Mountain, Bellingham, Washington. Brett Donohue offers a mid-ride snack in Sudden Valley, Washington. Photos by Colin Wiseman.
Page 29: From top: Photo by Matthew Tangeman. Hiking the big rocks on Rialto Beach, Olympic National Park. Photo by Jason Griffith.
Northwest Tune-Up 2025
PHOTOS BY NOLAN BAKER
Northwest Tune-Up (NWTU) returned to Bellingham this July and once again delivered an unforgettable weekend of riding, rhythm, and good times. Set against the lush trails of Galbraith Mountain and the buzzing energy of the downtown waterfront, the festival brought together mountain bikers, music lovers, and families for three full days of action and connection.
Racers pushed their limits on Galbraith’s legendary terrain while crowds gathered at the waterfront pump track to cheer on gravity-defying stunts and fast-paced contests. Off the course, local bike brands and gear companies filled the vendor village with demos and hands-on experiences, while clinics and group rides invited everyone from first-timers to seasoned shredders to join the fun.
As the sun dipped behind the bay, the music took over. From hip-hop legends The Pharcyde, to indie rock stalwarts Silversun Pickups, to deep electronic grooves from Chet Faker’s DJ set, the evening concerts turned the waterfront into a dance floor under the stars.
Next year’s NWTU is scheduled for July 10-13, 2026. x
BIRDS of a FEATHER
A trip to B.C.’s Kelowna unveils a wealth of birdwatching opportunities.
BY ERIN DEINZER
On a trip to Stewart Island, I found myself hiking through its forested landscape with a guidebook of the island’s birds in hand, clasping it possessively like a valued treasure map. Every time I spotted one of the camouflaged creatures, I felt compelled to make a declaration to my husband – which resulted in my nickname “Bird Nerd” for the remainder of the trip.
Recently, I decided to embrace that moniker and take a trip to B.C.’s Okanagan Valley, where hundreds of bird species can be found. The valley not only hosts resident birds but also serves as a migratory route and breeding ground for many other species, inviting transient visitors (myself included) to spots like Kelowna, the valley’s largest city sited on the shores of Lake Okanagan.
As a weekend destination, Kelowna undoubtedly conjures up images of boating on the lake or going wine tasting at any of the dozens of wineries or tasting rooms around the area. But for nature lovers, fall brings with it an opportunity to step outside and follow the call of birdsong instead.
It takes about four hours to get from Bellingham to Kelowna, climbing over mountain peaks before descending into the valley. After a short bridge crossing from the western side of the lake, you’re greeted with a view of the eastern shore and its sprawling waterfront: the first stop along my exploratory path.
ROTARY MARSH PARK is located just north of the massive Delta Hotels Grand Okanagan Resort and accessible from the footpath that runs along the waterfront. The day was cool and overcast, but that simply meant fewer people out on the marsh. With some of B.C.’s most statuesque high-rise condos incongruously abutting the park, it’s nevertheless an easy way to catch some high-flying locals enjoying their day.
In the summer months a pair of ospreys breed atop a massive platform in the middle of the marsh, but according to local sources, in the fall you can spot hooded mergansers (with their oversized crest and thin bill), ring-necked ducks (identifiable by their distinctive peaked head), American widgeon (look for the males’ iridescent green slash behind the eyes), mallard (perhaps the most familiar of all ducks), bufflehead (a tiny, buoyant bird that pops abruptly into the water),
and lesser scaup (who like to swim in groups) on the marshes’ ponds. Along the shoreline is a good place for spotting Lapland longspur (tiny songbirds that can consume thousands of seeds and insects per day), as well as various sandpipers and gulls.
Next up was SIBELL MAUDE-ROXBY BIRD SANCTUARY A short drive from the busy waterfront scene, the sanctuary is nestled between Lake Okanagan and a tiny residential neighborhood. Walk through a non-descript opening in a fence and follow the footpath to the sanctuary which ironically sports a sign decrying the overabundance of Canada geese – a protected species in the U.S. (In all fairness, one site I checked noted their numbers have “ballooned” to about seven million in North America alone, apparently because they don’t migrate very far these days.)
I didn’t spy a single Canada goose but was on the lookout for some early fall arrivals, amongst them the belted kingfisher (which perch on dead limbs to dive for fish), aggressive white pelicans, elegant swans, or great blue herons – which seem to impersonate cast-iron sculptures as they wait patiently for their prey.
The raised boardwalk, winding its way through the marsh, has several viewing platforms and the occasional bench to stop, look, and listen to the life around you. Though it wasn’t what I was there to observe, I nevertheless appreciated the signage at the entrance that read, “Dragonflies spend most of their life underwater eating insects and tadpoles (who knew?) before molting into airborne mosquito hunters, and cattails are self-pollinating overachievers that can produce over 250,000 seeds, grow up to 10 cm per day, provide food, cover, and nesting materials for marsh-life, and help hold soil in place while filtering out pollutants.”
From there, I found my way to a spot off a busy street and down a small country road to visit MUNSON POND, (AKA Kelowna’s Hidden Jewel). The 3.8-hectare wetland started out as a gravel pit until the city purchased the pond and some surrounding land for park development in the 1990s. Today, the pond is a tiny treasure you can walk to from the parking lot then stand on an observation deck to watch dozens of birds enjoying a freshwater romp.
In the fall, you’re likely to see some of those overabundant Canada geese, but other migrating geese species (among them the snow, greater white-fronted, and cackling) have also been spotted. Though any dedicated birder should already have them on hand, be sure to bring your binoculars as most of the action is on the far side of the pond.
Although my last stop, MISSION CREEK REGIONAL PARK, didn’t deliver on the bird-spotting scale, it is such a spectacularly lovely place that it earns an honorable mention. Large numbers of eastern kingbirds, western tanagers, gray catbirds, northern flickers, warblers and vireos are likely to be heard or seen in the surrounding forest., Regardless, take a minute to read the informative panels that recount the story of restoration efforts to help the land-locked Kokanee salmon spawn. The display explains that at four years of age, the Kokanee leave their lake homes to spawn, “guided by their sense of smell to Mission Creek where they were born. This occurs from mid-September to mid-October.”
Imagine if you were lucky enough to witness that water-bound migration alongside the airborne one that occurs every fall in the Okanagan. Which, for me, is more than enough reason to return. x
Once the sun goes down, there are ample opportunities to sip and savor at some of the area’s renowned winemaking establishments. But if you want a spectacular birds-eye view of the lake, head up to either Summerhill Pyramid Winery or Cedar Creek Estate Winery, where you’re also likely to spot soaring raptors overhead as you sip your favorite varietal.
Any potential birder would be pleased with the wealth of information contained on this site: inaturalist.ca/guides/8863
This useful site contains a current listing of rare birds spotted in the Okanagan: bcbirdalert.blogspot.com/p/okanagansouthern-interior.html
Exploring Welcome Pass
BY TONY MOCERI
My friend Justin Brown and I enthusiastically stumbled and tripped our way through the woods. We knew the trail had to be close, but we couldn't seem to find it.
We had a schedule for this midweek adventure, so we started in the early morning darkness to give ourselves plenty of time to explore Welcome Pass. Our headlamps flashed off dew glimmering vegetation as we stepped over logs and pushed brush aside. Eventually laughing at ourselves, we found the trail and began a modest incline. We settled into a little trail banter, excited for what the day would bring, when the trail let us know this would not be a leisurely stroll.
The trailhead is located up a dirt road on your left between mileposts 45 and 46 if you are heading towards Mt. Baker on the Mt. Baker Highway, and it is a direct route to Welcome Pass. I know it wasn't straight up, because I didn't need a rope and harness, but boy, is this trail a burner. It's steep, with quick switchbacks. The entire time I kept thinking the trail would get more gradual, but nope. Whoever put in this trail wanted to make sure we got our pump on for the day. As our breathing grew heavier, our conversation wavered a bit, and I got lost in the trance of our lights switching back and forth as we zigzagged up the hill.
Our plan was to reach the pass before the sun came up, but the couple of miles and nearly 3,000 feet of elevation took longer than anticipated. Slowly, enough dawn light filtered through the trees for us to click off our headlamps, and we were able to take in the forest around us. It's a beautiful, peaceful trail, although it's difficult to focus on the surroundings when the next switchback taunts me up ahead.
With our hearts pumping and our quads burning, we reached the pass in time to witness the view in its morning light glory. At the top, we
took a moment to enjoy the view – in reality, we were tired and taking a break, but at least we had a good excuse. Staring out at the North Cascade peaks in the distance gives perspective on how vast this incredible piece of wilderness is. It seemingly goes on forever, with valleys and mountains repeating for eternity. While everyone wants a clear day for views, we were lucky enough to have light clouds rolling through above and below the peaks, framing our view with a dynamic show.
The Welcome Pass Trail, although it felt all-consuming in the moment, is really just an elevator to a world of exploration. The well-groomed trails at the top can take you to Excelsior and High Divide, or just give you a tour of Welcome Pass, which is what we did, because in this scene, the whole world seemed to open up. The trees gave way to mountain pastures and wild blueberry fields. There are gently rolling hills and steep cliffs diving off towards creeks below. We scrambled around on large rock outcroppings and took in the views from various locations. While one side of the pass offered a view that extends to the seemingly unknown, the other side provides a bird's-eye view of the familiar North Fork of the Nooksack River winding below.
While starting in the dark seemed misguided at the beginning of the trek, once we reached the top, it felt like the perfect decision as we threw out our schedule and explored with no agenda. We discovered different paths, some created by humans and others by nature. We took in the expansive open scene, gazing at Mt. Baker in all its glory, and examined the small wonders, like the seemingly perfect mushroom sprouting from the earth.
Lunch was a simple affair, consisting of granola bars, crackers, and a tin of smoked oysters. We sat on a moss-covered rock ledge, looking down at the Nooksack River below with an atmosphere no fine dining restaurant could ever hope to match. With a descent in our future, we headed back to
the trail, promising to come back soon, potentially for a night's stay. Other than a couple people on our way back, we had the pass to ourselves. This was a good reminder that there are still quiet places and how special they are when you find them.
With our legs recovered, we boasted about how fast and easy the way back to the truck would be. It is in human nature to think the way down will be a breeze when the opposite force felt so challenging on the way up, but as soon as we began our descent, we knew we were in for a rude awakening. The gravity that fought us on the way up was now pulling us down. In addition to needing to have our brakes engaged, the dirt on the trail had dried in the day's sun and was now slippery. Each step became a process of trying to stop my momentum without slipping, opposing forces acting against my knees.
With my legs burning, I longed for my dawn ascent from a few hours earlier. I knew that my muscles and joints would hurt from the way down more than the way up. While there was a lot of attention paid to my footing, I did give myself moments to take in the forest around me, which had been shrouded in darkness on the ascent. While we made our way down gingerly, our conversation turned to the impressive individuals who had the gargantuan task of building this trail. As the decline subsided, we heard a gentle creek and knew we were nearing the end of the trail. In the daylight, the entire trail, including the start, was obvious, and we walked the couple of hundred feet section we had missed on the way up, thus concluding – and amending – our little adventure.
The end of a good hike evokes a range of emotions. It's a feeling of relief for the body, accomplishment for the mind, fulfillment for the soul, desire for the next adventure, and excitement for the nearest cold beverage. Fortunately, our busy scheduled allowed for a drink. x
Takla Lake, B.C. Wilderness is calling for you
STORY AND PHOTOS BY ROCKY MCCANN
Do you like wilderness camping?
Do you like catching big fish?
Do you like seeing lynx, moose, grizzly and caribou?
Do you like being alone in the bush?
Do you like long drives?
If so, then you need to visit my neck of the woods, Takla Lake.
Takla Lake is in northwestern B.C. just over 171 km northwest of Prince George and approximately 1,000 km from the U.S./Canada border. From Prince George you drive west to Fort St. James. 40 km past “The Fort,” you turn off the main road and travel the last 125 km on logging roads. The road ends at a small seasonal resort called Takla Narrows. There are three small cabins, a very good boat launch and Wi-Fi. There are no other amenities.
Takla Lake is the fifth-largest natural lake in B.C. It is a fjord lake with steep mountains rising directly out of the lake. The lake is shaped like a “Y” with the main arm stretching 96 km long and the northwest arm, on which our cabin is located, at 40 km long. Being a fjord lake, there is very little flat land on which to build a cabin, and the lake is extremely deep. Right in front of our cabin, the lake is over 260 meters deep (approximately 850 feet) in front of our cabin.
Takla Lake has a rich history. It was one of the
routes used to get to the Ominica goldfields in the 1870s. Miners that chose the Takla Lake route used small boats or canoes to navigate the rivers and lakes, but in 1871 a group of Quesnel businessmen believed they could make their fortune by having a sternwheeler carry prospectors from Quesnel to the goldfields. At this time, no boats went past Quesnel as they could not get through the Fort George Canyon.
In late June of 1871, the Enterprise, a 110-footlong sternwheeler with a full load of gold miners pulled out from the dock at Quesnel into the Fraser River and through the canyon, and then on to Takla Lake some 350 km away. This was a remarkable trip that took five weeks over extremely dangerous rivers. After dropping the gold miners off at the end of Takla Lake, the Enterprise started the return trip to Quesnel to pick up another load of miners but ran aground on Trembleur Lake and sank. Her boilers can still be seen rusting on the edge of the lake.
But that wasn’t the end of big transportation dreams along Takla Lake. In the late 1960s, B.C. Railway decided to extend the rail line 663 km from Fort St. James to Dease Lake near the B.C. Yukon border. Over 90 km of the line runs along the shore of Takla Lake. The line was abandoned in 2006, but the steel tracks are still in place. These days, many retrace the route that the Enterprise took in 1871 and canoe from Takla Landing
through Takla Lake and the connecting rivers and lakes to Fort St. James. This is a 190 km paddle, and it takes three to four days.
My wife Ann and I live at Takla Annie on the northwest arm of Takla Lake. We park our truck at the end of the road at the Narrows and travel up the Arm by boat. When I asked if you liked being alone in the bush, I wasn’t kidding. There are five seasonal cabins on the northwest arm that are occupied on and off during the summer. The nearest one is nine km from our cabin. Our nearest full-time neighbour is 43 km away by boat. By the middle of September, we are the only people still on the Northwest Arm and this becomes a big issue if we need help of any kind. Any major boat problems mean we can’t get back to the truck. Any major medical problems and ... well, we're toast. Our log cabin was built in 1969 and is approximately 750 square feet consisting of a kitchen and dining area, two bedrooms, a storage area and a bathroom with a shower and toilet. There is also a guest cabin that sleeps three. We rely on solar panels (with generator backup) for electricity and have 500 meters of 2-inch pipe that provides pressurized water from the creek on our property. We also have internet and phone service via satellite. So, while we are isolated in the sense of having no nearby neighbors, we do not lack any comforts. So, what do we do with all our time?
We kill a lot of mosquitoes and black flies in June
BRITISH
and July. If you make the long drive to Takla Lake or anywhere in northern B.C., bring bug spray. We do a lot of fishing. Takla Lake has 15-pound rainbow trout, 20-pound lake trout and 35-pound burbot in it. There are supposed to be sturgeon in the lake but no one has ever caught one. Most people troll for the rainbows and lake trout, but the rainbows readily take a fly like an “egg sucking leach” at the creek mouths when the salmon are running. Imagine a 10-pound rainbow trout dancing across the water on the end of your fly line – now that's a fight you'll remember. We also fish for burbot using a set line which is a rig that consist of a float with at least 150 feet of line tied to a very large, baited hook with a three-pound weight to stop it from floating away. The set line is put in very deep water and left over night. The largest burbot that we have caught was 16 pounds and three feet long. (A burbot is an elongated bottom-dwelling fish that is the only member of the cod family to live in fresh water. It tastes just like the saltwater version.)
We do a lot of exploring. There is an area farther up the lake where we search for fossils. We take our grandkids and other guests up there to find fossils of plants, clam shells and ammonites. We have found numerous old trapper cabins out in the bush and along the shore. There are several waterfalls along the lake and one over 100 feet
high on the creek that goes through our property.
Ann has a flower patch and a small vegetable garden. She also has a chair and several fishing rods at the mouth of the creek where she catches dinner on a regular basis.
We kill a lot of mosquitoes and black flies in June and July ... oops, I already said that!
We entertain family and friends who want to escape the city, sit around a campfire and cook a hot dog on a stick, sleep in on a Monday morning if it suits them, go catch a fish, or do absolutely nothing.
Being a wildlife photographer, I'm out in the bush almost every day. I have packed lumber into various locations and built comfortable blinds that keep me dry when it is raining, warm on cold fall days and prevent the birds or animals from seeing me. My photographer friends tell me I'm getting soft. I tell them I'm getting smarter. There are owls, kingfishers, grebes, mergansers, moose, elk, black bears, grizzlies, fishers, mountain goat, Canada lynx and wolves wandering around here. It is not easy. You have to work hard to get the picture. This isn’t Jasper, Banff or Yellowstone where the animals are used to people and stand around posing until you get the shot. Here, when large animals see you, they either run away or run at you.
We travel back to Prince George once a month to stock up on food, fuel and other necessities like bug spray. It usually takes five or six days before we make it back to Takla Annie. We have a lot to do in those five or six days. Ann’s grocery list is up to three pages long and always includes Hawkins Cheezies and numerous chocolate bars. I get a lot fewer things, but it still takes time, plus there is always business matters that must be done in person, medical appointments and meeting friends and family. There is a lot compressed into a short time. It’s hectic and we always look forward to the return trip to Takla Annie.
So, should you make the long drive to Takla Lake or for that matter, any of the big lakes in northern B.C.? The answer is definitely yes if you are on your way to Alaska. But take the less travelled route; instead of continuing north at Prince George you turn west and just past Terrace take the scenic Stewart-Cassiar Highway that reconnects with the Alaska Highway at Watson Lake in the Yukon. On the return trip home you can follow the Alaska Highway all the way and then compare that route to your trip north. I've travelled both and the Cassiar-Stewart is, in my opinion, the more scenic route. Bring your camera and of course, lots of bug spray.
See you soon north of the border, eh! x
Vancouver
Kelowna
Prince George
COLUMBIA
Takla Lake
Northwest Arm
Mount Blanchet
Provincial Park
Takla Landing
EATS & SLEEPS
EATS
BLAINE
PACKERS KITCHEN & BAR AT
SEMIAHMOO RESORT
9565 Semiahmoo Parkway
360/318-2090
semiahmoo.com
Seaside dining with stunning views and a fresh menu of seafood, hand-crafted pizza, and local specialties.
BELLINGHAM
BELLINGHAM CIDER COMPANY
205 Prospect Street, Suite A105
360 /510-8494
bellinghamcider.com
A local craft cider producer and solar-powered restaurant with a full bar overlooking Bellingham Bay. Food is prepped fresh and sourced from local farms and businesses.
BOUNDARY BAY BREWERY & BISTRO
1107 Railroad Ave
360/647-5593
bbaybrewery.com
A family-friendly community hub. Unwind in the taproom, bistro, deck or beer garden with handcrafted brews, fresh local food. Celebrating 30 years. Closing at end of September.
HOLLY’S MEAT PIES
4073 Hannegan Rd.
360/778-1111
hollysmeatpies.com
Washington’s original pasty company. Artisan hand pies made from scratch. Order online.
LARRABEE LAGER COMPANY
4151 Meridian St. Ste 100
360/656-5768
larrabeelagerco.com
2024 Small Brewery of the Year/ Washington Beer Awards. Serving pizzas, salads and starters.
BURLINGTON
SKAGIT’S OWN FISH MARKET
18042 Hwy 20
360/707-2722
skagitfish.com
Offering the highest quality in local seafood. Daily lunch specials freshly prepared. Local jams, jellies, salsas, honey and sauces.
CONCRETE
ANNIE’S PIZZA STATION
44568 State Route 20
360/853-7227
anniespizzastation.com
Family-owned pizza restaurant focusing on fresh, homemade quality Italian fare. Friendly service, helpful information and great food combine for an unforgettable experience.
DEMING
THE NORTH FORK BREWERY
6186 Mt. Baker Highway
360/599-2337
northforkbrewery.com
Handcrafted beer and hand tossed pizza. Order online for to-go orders. New covered beer garden. Weekday Happy Hour Mon-Fri 12-5 p.m.
FERNDALE
SILVER REEF CASINO RESORT
4876 Haxton Way
866/383-0777
silverreefcasino.com
Diverse dining options from woodstone pizza to award-winning fine dining at The Steak House.
GLACIER
GUNNERS TEX MEX BBQ
9990 Mt. Baker Hwy
360/599-0783
gunnersbbq.com
Succulent, fresh smoked meats, order by the pound or dish. Burgers, tacos and vegan option. Beer, wine, craft cocktails.
WAKE ‘N BAKERY
6903 Bourne Street
360/599-9378
getsconed.com
Open daily from 7 a.m. to 6 p.m. serving breakfast burritos & sandwiches, quiche, soup, paninis, and freshly baked goods. Savory and sweet gluten-free and vegan options. Organic espresso and coffee.
MOUNT VERNON
SKAGIT VALLEY FOOD CO-OP
202 S. 1st Street
360/336-9777
skagitfoodcoop.com
Deli food from scratch using fresh, quality ingredients, sourced from local and organic suppliers whenever possible. Entrees, side dishes, soups, salads, sandwiches, and handmade, organic ice cream. Vegan, vegetarian, raw, gluten-free, and whole food choices for every meal.
SLEEPS
BLAINE
SEMIAHMOO RESORT
4565 Semiahmoo Parkway
360/318-2000
semiahmoo.com
A casual northwest beach resort surrounded by the Salish Sea. An authentic Pacific Northwest experience for everyone – from families looking for a fun getaway to couples and friends seeking an easy-going retreat.
BE PART OF THE EXPERIENCE
Since 1986, Mount Baker Experience magazine has inspired outdoor enthusiasts of all ages throughout Washington and British Columbia.
MBE gets readers outside - it’s the publication outdoor enthusiasts turn to when they need a hit of adrenaline. Increase your exposure with the Northwest’s premier adventure magazine. Seattle to Vancouver.
Next issue: Winter 2025/26
To be part of the experience call 360-332-1777 or email sales@pointrobertspress.com www.MountBakerExperience.com
FERNDALE
SILVER REEF CASINO RESORT
4876 Haxton Way
866/383-0777
silverreefcasino.com
Exit 260 off I-5. 206 luxurious rooms or suites to make yourself feel at home with beautiful Mt. Baker views, complimentary breakfast, free WiFi.
GLACIER
LUXURY GETAWAYS
10005 Mt. Baker Hwy.
360/398-9590 or 877-90-BAKER
luxurygetaways.com
Redefining the cabin in the woods. Vacation rentals in the heart of the Mt. Baker Recreational Area – perfect for hitting the slopes or relaxing.
SERENE MOUNTAIN ESCAPES
360/961-0123
serenemountainescapes.com
Quality vacation rentals that sleep from 1-12 guests. Choose from pools, hot tubs, dog friendly & more.
THE KNOTTY LODGE
360/303-2887
VRBO.com/563675
Premier Mt. Baker vacation rental. 3BR, 2BA luxury timber home with modern amenities, hot tub, WiFi, gourmet kitchen, fireplace, fire pit. Your perfect getaway base camp!
MAPLE FALLS
MT. BAKER LODGING
7425 Mt. Baker Hwy.
800/709-7669
mtbakerlodging.com
Find your perfect accommodations - from rustic to luxury getaways, from studio to 12+ bedrooms. Open 7 days a week.
Whatcom
Water Week
Outdoor fall events for everyone
StoryWalk Read Aloud
September 12, 10:30-12
Taylor Dock, Bellingham
An early-in-the-day event for kids ages 3-8. Join a walking read-along on Taylor Dock at Boulevard Park in Bellingham, organized by the city of Bellingham Public Works Department. This morning event will feature a story, songs, and nature-inspired crafts. StoryWalk Read Aloud starts at the play structure at Boulevard Park.
Essentials of Sea Kayaking
September 13, 10 a.m. – 1 p.m. Community Boating Center, Bellingham
For those seeking an introduction to
sea kayaking, this course – organized by the Community Boating Center – is designed to teach the basic skills required to safely navigate the open waters of the Puget Sound. Learn about necessary equipment, paddle strokes, entry and exit maneuvers, cold water safety, and proper communication. Once complete, you’ll be able to rent sea kayaks from the Community Boating Center, 555 Harris, Avenue Bellingham. Warning: you will get wet!
Biennial Return of the Pinks
September 13, 10 a.m. – 2 p.m.
Glacier
Witness the beauty of the biennial pink salmon return up the Nooksack River, while learning all about the salmon species from Nooksack Salmon Enhancement Association. Great event for all ages! For more information, visit: n-sea.org/salmon-discovery-program.
Bioluminescence Tour
Multiple Dates in September Community Boating Center, Bellingham
Join the Community Boating Center (CBC) to witness the mesmerizing light of bioluminescent waters in Bellingham Bay. Made for experienced and novice paddlers alike, CBC guides will explain why these plankton glow in the hot summer months, and why Bellingham Bay is host to such an amazing ecosystem. Other dates available at boatingcenter.org/guided-experiences.
Wonder Walks
September 19, 11:30 a.m. – 1 p.m.
Whatcom Falls Park, Bellingham Join Wild Whatcom for an 18+, accessible walk through Whatcom Falls Park. For those interested in a slow, intentional walk, allowing space to learn about local flora and fauna, and engage with your senses. Walks normally conclude with nature journaling or art. Bring binoculars and a journal!
Wild Things
September 19-20, 9:30-11 a.m.
Whatcom Falls Park, Bellingham Designed for children age six and under, their adults and siblings, Wild Things is a community program organized by Wild Whatcom to help introduce kids to local parks. September’s event will be at Whatcom Falls Park, with two dates to choose from. Learn about the changes of fall and how they affect Whatcom Creek, and explore nature with some new friends. Register at wildwhatcom.org/wild-things
Whatcom Water Week
Photo Contest
August 1-September 30
Whatcom County
Whatcom Watersheds Information Network is hosting the 10th annual photo contest, open to all photographers. This year’s theme is “Water – It’s Everybody’s Business.” Meaning, judges are looking for images that convey the role that water plays in your own life, and in the culture of Whatcom County. Winning photographers will receive local prizes. Learn more at whatcomwin.org/photocontest.
The Thrill of the Glide
BY ERIN DEINZER
"Paddles up, and ... hoe!”
Six paddles switch sides on the outrigger canoe, then slice through the crystalline water. If the next stroke is done in perfect harmony, you'll feel the catch reverberating within you as six individual blades enter the water and pull together as one.
We recover and bring our paddles forward for the next stroke, while the “stroker” (in Seat 1) sets the cadence and the “caller” (Seat 3) counts and shouts for changes to our forward trajectory. The “steer-person” (Seat 6) keeps a watchful eye on our safety, making course corrections that ensure our group works together with minimal wasted effort.
Heading back to the beach, we ride the waves towards the waiting shoreline. We savor the exhilaration of being out on the open water, paddles in hand, sunlight on our faces, and the satisfying sensation of sweat pooling in the recesses of our collective bodies.
I’ve always been one for team sports, but experiencing six independent bodies working together to create a collective whole is something I’ve never felt before. It’s a feeling you instinctively perceive the minute it happens – which it doesn’t always. But when your team is working in perfect sync, you can feel it deep within you: that treasured moment you’ll try to recreate ev-
ery time your paddle enters the water. Though it’s hardly the experience of being one of “The Boys in the Boat," I was able to experience the thrill of the glide onboard an outrigger canoe off the shores of Ka’anapali, Maui. It makes sense to try your hand at paddling here, as ancient Polynesians invented the sport.
According to Hawaiian Paddle Sports (HPS), a watersports outfitter in Kihei, Maui, “Outrigger canoes first arrived in Hawaii around 200 AD. Some large enough to hold up to 80 people, they were filled with essential items like edible plants, water and animals to ensure a somewhat safer voyage for (those) who took off in search of land. By following the migration patterns of birds seen flying overhead, explorers soon discovered the Hawaiian Islands.” And when giant Koa trees were found on the Big Island, native inhabitants learned they could build an entire canoe hull from a single piece of wood.
The creation of a new canoe began with a kahuna (Hawaiian priest) following a ‘elepaio bird into the forest. Since the bird was “attracted to rotting Koa wood,” the kahuna would know which of the trees were still sturdy and strong, and which to avoid.
The canoe builders would then be summoned to the forest, and the process of felling the tree and carrying it to the beach would begin. Oftentimes hundreds of men would be needed
to transport the tree to its halau wa’a (canoe house), and then the kalai wa’a (carver) would begin shaping the hull. Black paint, made from a mixture of plants and charcoal, was added to the outer shell to help keep the canoe waterproof, while royalty would enjoy an added layer of glossy paint made from hens' eggs. Woodcrafters would then customize paddles for each member of the canoe’s team, with each seat often named after the individual paddler.
While the Hawaiian outrigger canoe has gone through many iterations since its initial inception, they remain “built for battling conditions in the open ocean and are recognized for their unique shape, design and lack of extra ornamentation or decoration,” notes HPS.
Over the centuries, outrigger canoes continued to be built, with racing entering the equation. Estimates of thousands of outriggers scattered throughout the Hawaiian Islands led to competitions amongst the paddlers, which brought betting along as a side hustle. This led to racing being outlawed by Queen Ka’ahumanu but was later brought back by King Kalakaua in the late 1800s. Then in 1908, Oahu’s Outrigger Canoe Club was founded, helping to revive interest not only in outrigger canoeing, but surfing as well.
Understandably, outfitters today choose relatively calm beachfront locations to take tourists out for their first taste of the sport. The day we
entered the ocean off Maui’s western shore for our early morning ride, there wasn’t a swell in sight; just clean, clear, glassy water. The Westin Maui Resort & Spa, where I was staying, made the experience even easier because of their relationship with We Paddle Maui, a company that lost its storefront location in Lahaina’s fire but has found a new home with the resort.
In a conversation with Eric Frankum, the resort’s senior marketing manager, he explained the reason behind the recently forged partnership. An outrigger canoer and racer himself,
Frankum speaks from a familiarity not only with the surrounding area, but as someone with a passion for the ocean.
“When many visitors come to Hawaii, they’ll do a ‘cultural activity’ like lei-making. But if you want to experience a completely different way to connect with the culture you need to get out on the water, and this is the ideal place to try it because it’s scenic, safe, and serene.
“Another cool factor is that you’ll go out with professional watermen who are also big wave surfers or competitive paddlers,” says Fran-
kum. “And if you’re here between October and March, you’ll have a good chance of seeing humpback whales.”
We didn’t see any whales the morning my group paddled out, but I did witness something that’s pretty unusual these days: an uninterrupted hour of being completely present with no distractions and no need to do anything else but be in the moment and completely participatory. That paired well with the feeling of achieving the perfect glide, when every effort comes together in one harmonious moment. x
FALL RACES & EVENTS
RACES
GOAT RUN:
Saturday, September 6
Great Olympic Adventure Trail Run is a point-to-point half marathon, marathon, and 50K trail race that traverses Kelly Ridge between the Olympic National Park and the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Port Angeles.
Info: peninsulaadventuresports.com.
CHUCKANUT CLASSIC:
Saturday, September 6
Mount Baker Bicycle Club’s signature ride. Pick your distance from a ten-mile family trail ride to the full century of 100 miles. More info: chuckanutclassic.org
RUN WITH THE CHUMS:
Saturday, September 13
12th annual 5k fun run & Smolt Sprint obstacle course celebrating healthy water, healthy habitat and healthy people. Free event with beautiful views of Birch Bay beaches and shoreline. More info: whatcomcd.org/run-with-the-chums
BELLINGHAM TRAVERSE:
Saturday, September 13
A 6-leg relay through Bellingham’s parks, trails and waterways. Cap it off with a finish line celebration at Boundary Bay Brewing Co.
More info: bellinghamtraverse.com
SKAGIT FLATS:
Sunday, September 14
Full and half marathon, and 5k. Burlington. This marathon is the flattest Boston qualifier in all of Washington state. More info: skagitflats.skagitrunners.org
MT. BAKER HILL CLIMB:
Sunday, September 14
Ascend 4,462’ from Chair 9 in Glacier to Artist Point (5,140’ elevation) in 22 miles along the Mt. Baker Highway. One of the most scenic paved roads in the country. Steep elevation but the views are stunning. Experience the agony and the ecstasy. Info: bakerhillclimb.com.
BELLINGHAM BAY MARATHON:
Sunday, September 21
Also, half Marathon, 10K and 5K races. Often called one of the most beautiful races in the Pacific Northwest. Info: bellinghambaymarathon.org.
THE BIG HURT:
Saturday, September 27
A premier multi-sport race on the Olympic Peninsula. A four-leg test of endurance, strength and tenacity intertwined with the beauty of the North Olympic Peninsula. The event starts with 15-mile mountain bike, followed by 2.6-mile kayak, 30-mile road bike and a 10K run along the scenic Olympic Discovery Trail, Port Angeles. Info: bighurtpa.com.
WHISTLER 50 RELAY & ULTRA:
Saturday, October 4
Something for runners of all abilities! From 10k to 50k, from first-time relay participants and beginner ultra-marathoners through to competitive athletes. More info: bcathletics.org/whistler50relayultra
TRAILS TO TAPS RELAY:
Sunday, October 12
Team up with friends in Bellingham and run from brewery to brewery, from Lake Padden to Kulshan Trackside. Stops at 8 breweries over a 35 mile course. Teams of 4-8 runners. Info: trailstotapsrelay.com
SALT CREEK 24:
October 25 & 26
The first of its kind on the Olympic Peninsula, this all-day, all-night event circles the 1.3-mile route around Salt Creek Recreation Area. Walking or running, solo or as a relay team, test your endurance and see how many laps you can make in 24 hours. More info: peninsulaadventuresports.com
TURKEY TROT:
Saturday, November 22
A 5k fun run/walk that all net proceeds benefit the Bellingham Food Bank. More info: gbrc.net
JINGLE BELL RUN:
Saturday, December 13
Bellingham’s annual festive run to support the Arthritis Foundation. More info: JBR.org/Bellingham
EVENTS FOR ALL
MT BAKER VOLUNTEER
ASSOCIATION BENEFIT:
Thursday, September 11
The Bellingham winter community comes together for a super fun event and fundraiser for Mt Baker Volunteer Ski Patrol at Boundary Bay Brewery. Silent auction and raffles for outdoor gear and experiences. Space Band performing. More info: mtbakervolunteers.org
WHATCOM COUNTY FARM TOUR:
Saturday, September 13
Meet the folks who grow and raise our food. Self-guided event to 16 participating farms. More info: sustainableconnections.org
PINK SALMON SIGHTING:
Saturday, September 13
See the biennial return of pink salmon in Glacier and learn all about them. Organized by Nooksack Salmon Enhancement Association. More info: n-sea.org/salmon-discovery-program
CATOBERFEST:
Saturday, September 13
Beach Cat Brewing presents a fundraiser for the Blaine Food Bank. All afternoon event at Blaine Marine Park with music, beer, food, games. Family friendly! More info: catoberfest.org
BELLINGHAM SEAFEAST:
September 27 & 28
Festival highlights the local bounty harvested from the waters of the Pacific Northwest and celebrates the art, culture and history that has shaped our coastal community.
More info: Bellinghamseafeast.org
BLAINE’S SEASIDE BASH:
Saturday, October 11
Featuring Drayton Harbor Co.’s OysterFest. A day filled with local food and bounties from the sea. Street fair , beer garden and live music.
More info: blainebythesea.com
LUMMI ISLAND ARTISTS’ STUDIO TOUR:
November 8 & 9
Self-guided tour to Lummi Island‘s artist studios showcasing paintings, jewelry, sculpture, photography, woodwork, quilts and much more. More info: lummi-island.com/artists-studio-tour
WARREN MILLER’S
SNO-CIETY:
Friday, November 14
A Warren Miller Entertainment film showcasing the people who make the mountains matter.
More info: mountbakertheatre.com
MOUNTAIN FILM ON TOUR:
Saturday, November 15
A collection of short films on nature, recreation, overcoming obstacles, and celebrating LIFE! Whatcom Community College Syre Theatre. A fundraiser supporting Rotary Club of Bellingham. More info: mountainfilmontourbellingham.com
BIRCH BAY POLAR BEAR PLUNGE WORLD RECORD ATTEMPT:
Thursday, January 1, 2026
Birch Bay aims at holding the Guinness World Records ™ for their 43rd Annual Polar Bear Plunge. The event needs to exceed the current world record of 2,461 participants set in Most, Czech Republic on March 1, 2025. Come and make this happen! More info: birchbaywa.org/ birch-bay-polar-bear-plunge
December 13, 2025
Festivities begin 8:00 a.m.
Bellingham High School
2020 Cornwall Ave, Bellingham WA
JBR.org/Bellingham
Peyto Lake, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada.
Photo by Grace McCarthy.
Photo by Andrew Grubb
NOV. 14
x PARTING SHOT
Vivika Stamolis and Emma Brice carve down Mt. Rainier.
Photo by Jason Hummel
S ATU R DAY & SUN DAY
S Q U A LICUM HA RBO R
Food Vendors • Beer, Wine & Cider Garden • Live Music
