tables gleam with the antiseptic cleanliness of a surgery theater. Men of all ages — clad in white aprons, shirts and hair nets — bustle around, grinding meat and filling casings, stopping to clean as they go. In contrast to the business-like affect and cleanliness, the space is warm and peppered with decorative pigs (an homage to the animal that enables their livelihood) given over the years by wives and customers. On the spare shelves are makings of a full, simple dinner: olive oil, pasta, red sauce, broth, olives; and in the coolers, meats of all kinds. Grasso estimates that around 80 percent of business is wholesale. The rest is sold retail to families coming by to get a few specialty items. He says a number of his returning customers are second and third generation. They come by often on Saturdays to chat with him and his employees. This shop, which used to do significantly more retail business, has had to adjust as the neighborhood has seen
changes because of rising prices and the start of a new wave of gentrification in East Liberty. Grasso is a staunch supporter of small businesses, speaking fondly of when families and neighbors would order in bulk from Larimer’s mom-and-pop establishments. He’s also proud of the work he’s been able to do as a mentor to other young professionals in his field.
HENRY GRASSO, CO. INC. 716 Larimer Ave., Larimer 412-441-8126
MON to SAT 11A - 9P | SUN 4P - 9P 5865 ELLSWORTH AVE, 15232 | 412.441.4141
WW WWW.SENYAIPGH.COM WWW W W SE SENY NYAI AIPG PGH H CO COM M
Grasso, who has worked at the shop since he was a teenager, says he’s never doubted his commitment to the business, his vendors, and his community of customers. “This is my passion,” he says. “I enjoy preparing foods and teaching people what to do. When I was starting out, I had a lot of people mentor me. Now I feel like I’m returning the favor.”
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blogh.pghcitypaper.com CELINE ROBERTS ON BUTCHERY When I started writing about food, I gravitated toward something very unfamiliar: meat production and butchery. As a vegetarian of 13 years who had somewhat recently started eating meat again, I was driven to understand what I was eating and where it was coming from. I’ve now interviewed several butchers and chefs in Pittsburgh and even gotten my hands on some butcher’s knives. What I’ve walked away with is an immense sense of respect for this work and the people who are working to make raising animals ethical and sustainable. Butchery isn’t something that my interviewees have taken lightly. All have taken years to hone their craft. This is a profession making a resurgence as a valuable expertise in the restaurant industry, and I’m excited to see these skills being transferred generationally from experts to young people. •
Every time you click “reload,” the saints cry. PITTSBURGH CITY PAPER MAY 30-JUNE 6, 2018
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