Burgers are available in various tantalizing designs, from the Memphis (barbecue sauce, Swiss cheese and cole slaw) to the Sunrise (with egg). A simple, unadorned quarter-pound beef burger was a cross between diner-style (well-griddled with crisp edges) and the current fashion (plump and fire-charred) with good quality, beefy-tasting meat. We liked that all the burgers were available in four- or eight-ounce portions. We tried our Basi burger smokehousebacon barbecue style: topped with smokehouse-aged white cheddar, Bacon Stix, barbecue sauce, homemade onion rings and a pickle. Unsurprisingly, this towering combination was taller than it was wide, with a stack of three onion rings contributing much of its mass. But wow, was it good, especially in bites where the smoked white cheddar stepped forward. Among all of these ingredients, though, it was a bit hard to tease out the particular contribution of the Basi patty. Jason thought the seasoning of the kielbasa might have contributed to a bit of salty overkill in this particular combination. Next time, he’ll order a Basi burger naked to savor its full effect.
On the RoCKs
{BY DREW CRANISKY}
CHAMPAGNELESS Don’t go broke on holiday wines
It’s that magical time of year, the time when it’s OK to gorge on sticky-sweet cookies, sentimental kitsch and, of course, plenty of bubbly. Though Champagne is the go-to choice for New Year’s Eve toasts and brunches with the in-laws, a decent bottle doesn’t come cheap. Like Camembert cheese or Prosciutto di Parma, Champagne has a protected designation of origin, meaning that the grapes must be grown in the Champagne region of France in order to call it Champagne. While such exclusivity carries plenty of clout, it tends to carry a hefty price tag as well.
CHAMPAGNE-LIKE WINES FROM OTHER REGIONS OF FRANCE OFFER AN OUTSTANDING VALUE.
Sweet barbecue sauce in the pulled-pork sandwich lived up to its name, unfortunately overwhelming the pork, which seemed to be pretty good underneath it all. A slice of red onion was a nice touch, its pungency a welcome counterbalance to the sauce. Jamison’s offers several full-on entrees in addition to its full array of burgers and “sammiches,” and if the spaghetti carbonara was any indication, the kitchen’s knack extends to knife-and-fork fare. A moderate portion balanced the caloric creaminess of the homemade sauce, and the bowl was liberally studded with pieces of flavorful grilled chicken breast, plenty of peas and diced Bacon Stix. The Suburban Room had style, but Jamison’s has substance. Mad men never had it this good.
Fortunately, there are options a bit easier on your wallet. “I tend to look for things made in the style of Champagne,” explains John Wabeck, beverage director at Spoon. He cited cava, a Spanish sparkling wine, and Franciacorta, Prosecco’s lesser-known, more refined cousin, as two good bets. Dreadnought Wines’ Rob McCaughey echoes Wabeck’s sentiment. “If you see the words ‘Méthode Champenoise’ or ‘Méthode Traditionnelle’ on a bottle, it means it is made in the Champagne method, so these are generally going to have those bready, toasty notes that people enjoy,” he explains. Crémants, Champagne-like wines made in other regions of France, offer similar flavors at an outstanding value. Look especially for those from the Loire and Limoux regions, two of McCaughey’s favorites. Of course, not every holiday meal calls for bready, toasty notes. For something versatile and crowd-pleasing, Narcisi Winery’s Nicolette Chilton recommends a rosé. Made both still and sparkling, Chilton explains that a good rosé is “dry but fruity, refreshing and crisp with a lot of rose and cherry flavors.” As she points out, pink does not always equal sweet, and a drier rosé could complement a range of rich winter foods. Though none of these may have the pedigree of Champagne, you’ll be able to afford more than one bottle. And that ought to get everyone in the holiday spirit.
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Jamison’s chef Andrew Bash
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