The Imu Underground Umami In traditional times cooking generally took place in an underground oven that used piping hot rocks to evenly heat food and trap in flavor. In Sāmoa, New Zealand, the Marquesas, and Tonga this is called an “umu.” In Hawai’i we call it an “imu.” While in traditional times the men did all of the cooking, these days it can be a family affair. Every Thanksgiving my family and I
participate in a charity imu. The idea behind the work is laulima, loosely translated as “many hands working together as many backs and hands bend down into the earth.” It combines the values of diligence and cooperation to increase productivity. As a family, laulima means that each of us contributes to nourishing other families on many levels.
One Hawaiian favorite, kalua pork, gets its name from the imu process, literally meaning “pork baked underground.” Cooking the pork in an imu results in tender and moist meat that falls right off the bone and exhibits a wealth of flavor. Cooking underground can seem suspiciously dirty, but I promise it is both safe and delicious.
When in Hawaii. . . 1
Dig a hole large enough to fit desired amount of meat and produce.
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Place tinder, kindling, and firewood (in that order) in the hole and set fire.
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Place basalt lava rocks on top of the fire and wait for them to turn white hot with glowing red edges (3 to 4 hours).
fall 2015
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Pull out any remaining wood embers. Evenly disperse rocks. Place chopped up banana tree stumps and ti leaves on rocks. Wrap seasoned food in aluminum foil and place on top of banana stumps and ti leaves.
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Cover food with banana leaves and wet burlap coffee bags.Cover coffee bags with dirt until no steam can be seen coming out.
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Let sit overnight (minimum of 5 hours). Shovel away all dirt. Peel back all layers covering the food. And dig in with family and friends! penn appétit
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