Fall 2023: Close to Home

FALL 2023

The

Close to Home Issue

penn appétit

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Menu the

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Fall 2023 5

Letter from the Editor

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Girl Dinner

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Cooking with Funky Food

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A Narrative Journey Through My Mother's Chaotic Tteokguk Recipe

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Apple Dumplings

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The Greatest Grain

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A Bite of China: Philly Edition

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A Taste of Home: Amanda Freitag on Chopped, Culture, and Her Culinary Journey

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Home for the Holidays

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Foods Worthy of the Freshman 15

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The Science of Leftovers

34 Bayit Means Home

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Baingan Bharta

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The Trials and Tribulations of Bringing Food to Penn

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Foodie in France: A Culinary Reflection Before Study Abroad

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Kitchen Sink Vegetable Stew

←

What we're eating this fall:

1/ Cheesecake 2/ Charcuterie board 3/ Butternut Squash Pie 4/ Spicy Shrimp Pasta 5/ Roasted Cauliflower Head 6/ Hot Honey Roasted Carrots 7/ Tteokbokki

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Randy Bach MANAGING EDITOR Kristin Osika EDITORIAL STAFF Ryu Creighton, Andie Goldmacher, Bach Hoang, Samantha Kaufman, Isabelle Kong, Zachary Tran, Isa Turri, Emily Zhang CREATIVE DIRECTOR Joyce He DESIGN STAFF Alice Choi, Wei-An Jin, Janice Kim, Yune Kim, Cosette LaChance, Aaron Lee, Lucas Lee, Monika Lee, Delia Rivera, Maggie Song, Joyce Yoon, Eecho Yuan PHOTO DIRECTOR Katherine Kim PHOTO STAFF Hannah Cho, Paloma Gulick, Christina Kong, Monika Lee, Stephanie (Jiyeon) Lee, Maggie Miller, Ben Tausner, James Tran, Teja Vankireddy, Fiona Wu, Michelle Yao DIGITAL CONTENT DIRECTOR Alex Bardwell DIGITAL TEAM Audrey Gang, Valeri Guevarra, Fiona Herzog, Bach Hoang, Kimberly Liu, Mina Nair, Alex O'Connor, Alex Yum, Kevin Zhao CULINARY DIRECTOR Shan Shan Liang CULINARY TEAM Matthew Barotz, Ashrit Challa, Ava Chen, Luna Chen, Gloria Cheng, Hadley DeBruyn, Anna Feng, Rachel Fischer, Sasha Grosberg, Lucy Guo, Lucas Habtemariam, Jamie Hong, Allie Jiang, Nik Kathiresan, Steven Li, Moe Mansour, Kaya Patidar, Eleni Pisinos, Kyle Taylor, Max Wang, Kiwon Yang, Claire Zhong MARKETING DIRECTOR Irene Pak MARKETING TEAM Weining Ding, Isabelle Glat, Natalie Lim, Anna Metzger, Erin Oh, Chaerin Park, I'deyah Ricketts, Cynthia Ye, Amaliya Yunusova SOCIAL IMPACT CHAIR Alex Song SOCIAL IMPACT TEAM Katherine He, Charlotte Kemp, Andrew Lu, Connie Ni, Hannah Stoitchkov, Esther Werbach, Zoe Vaz, Margaret Zhu EVENTS CHAIR Anna Feng EVENTS TEAM Laurel Caruso, Anna Li, Andrew, Lu, Charlotte Moh COMMUNICATIONS Ashrit Challa

Letter from the Editor dear reader: What does home mean to you?

I’ve thoroughly enjoyed asking this question to everyone from our Penn Appétit writers to my own friends and family. For many, feeling at home is like a warm embrace on a winter day, a sense of closeness and comfort that feels uniquely yours. Home traditionally means thoughts of family, and memories or characteristics of a place you’ve shared with those you love. Perhaps you think of home when you remember a milestone birthday party, the creak in the floorboards of your childhood bedroom, or the rush of flying through the air on a backyard swingset.

↑ MOCHI SQUARES

To nearly everyone I ask, defining home also includes a mention of the smell of their mother’s fresh baked cookies, or perhaps a plate full of steaming tamales that never quite taste as good anywhere as they do at home. Food – along with the memories we make grocery shopping, cooking, and eating together – is inextricable from what it means to feel “close to home.” Home to me is waking up on Sunday mornings to the smell of pancakes drifting up the stairs, and scrambling to the kitchen to find my father just starting to flip the first batch, made from our favorite brand of mix (it took us years to decide) which we’d customize with various fruits, pumpkin (a fan favorite), or even ham and cheese.

Being in college means balancing the new experiences Penn and Philadelphia have to offer with the comforting traditions of home. How do students find a sense of home, when so many of us are physically so far away from it? Though we may not be in the home we’ve always known, we are constantly finding new ways to recreate or reinvent home here in Philadelphia. Though I can’t keep making Sunday pancakes with my Dad, I often instead have weekend brunch with friends in University City and beyond. Whether we try a classic spot like The Love or pack into one person’s apartment to cook together, we’ve found home in both the familiar flavors and aromas of foods we know, and the surprising tastes of those that are characteristically Phildelphian. We make memories together, finding home not only in the experiences and food we share, but also in each other.

In this issue, you’ll read articles by authors from near Philadelphia, as well as by authors who have traveled thousands of miles to be at Penn. You’ll hear stories of how they are both rediscovering and creating new senses of home here, fusing their cultural background, interests, and new identity as Philadelphians into every experience and every dish.

Welcome to the Fall 2023 issue of Penn Appétit.

Come gather around our table, and experience what it means to us to be close to home.

with love,

↑

Kristin

TARLAC TAMALES penn appétit

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Girl Dinner

H

ey, Penn foodies! Guess what? Our campus is the place to be for the latest TikTok sensation: the “Girl Dinner”! Whether you’re looking for sweet treats or snazzy snacks, UPenn has got you covered.

Let’s embark on this oh-so-cute foodie journey together. Pinkies up!

Just in case you’re on your social media cleanse, the “Girl Dinner” trend on TikTok showcases aesthetically arranged snack piles, reminiscent of upscale Lunchables, that include items like fruit, cheddar, salami, crackers, and olives – that is, casual, chaotic, and super convenient.

1. CHARCUTERIE CHATS: UPENN’S WEDNESDAY FARMER’S MARKET, A WONDERLAND OF NOM-NOMS! Every Wednesday, just beside the Penn Bookstore, a farmers market springs to life. For the charcuterie enthusiast, the charcuterie stand in the market is a treasure trove. The charcuterie stand is not just a stand – it’s an invitation to flavor town. Your pinterest board is finally happening IRL. The pickled items – olives, peppers, and sundried tomatoes – are more photogenic than any sunset photo. Imagine hosting a charcuterie night for your friends – the oohs and aahs as they see your beautifully arranged board!

And then there’s the art of assembling. Spread out a plush blanket in your dorm’s common area, get some dreamy fairy lights, and let the charcuterie magic unfold. Crafted with love and bursting with flavors, a “Girl Dinner” charcuterie board is more than just food; it’s an experience. Every slice of glazed cheese, or juicy peach tells a story of gourmet wonder. In addition to the charcuterie stand, the market’s produce section is a hidden gem, offering honey with a rich, amber hue, and fruits that are ripe, juicy, and oh-so-refreshing. They’re the perfect additions to elevate your charcuterie game.

For upperclassmen with the privilege of more spacious living areas, this is the perfect opportunity to host a “Girl Dinner” night. These themed nights are not only a fun way to catch up, but they also become so much easier with all the supplies right at your doorstep. Of course, a fancy solo girl dinner with fairy lights while staying up watching a Netflix series sounds like pure bliss too.

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QUICK TRICKS: MAXIMIZING THE MARKET’S BOUNTY Seasonal Swaps: If the market offers a unique fruit or cheese every few weeks, don’t hesitate! It might just be the star of your board.

Texture Play: Mix and match crunchy pickles with soft cheeses, or sweet jams with salty cold cuts. The market’s weekly offerings can be your guide.

Theme Nights: Based on what the market offers, you can have themed boards—Tropical Nights, Mediterranean Dreams, or Alpine Wonders.

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L IKA

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Girl Dinner: Continued IL

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2. FRUITFUL EVENINGS: THE STAND NEAR GUTMANN COLLEGE HOUSE, YOUR GO-TO FOR FRUIT-TASTIC GOODIES! Don’t forget that “Girl Dinner” also celebrates freshness, health, and vitality. And the Purple Stand, conveniently located near Gutmann College House, embodies this ethos.

This haven of freshness offers a myriad of fruits, each bursting with flavor, nutrition, and the promise of a delicious meal.

At this local stand, you’ll find an array of fruits that are essential for a well-rounded “Girl Dinner.” From crisp apples to juicy oranges, these

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fruits can be sliced and arranged beautifully on your platter, adding a refreshing and healthy touch to your meal. Beyond deliciousness, the stand’s array of fresh offerings ensures that students have their daily dose of vitamins, essential for those long study nights and challenging exams. Not only a snack to make you feel good, but also make your body feel good! This vitamin boost might just be what your body needs to get over the

cough that the person in your last math lecture gave you.

As the autumnal air grows crisp, imagine cozying up with a warm bowl of cinnamon and brown sugar-sprinkled apples – a hug in a bowl. Or perhaps a refreshing fruit salad, drizzled with honey and a hint of mint? In the spirit of “Girl Dinner”, these fruits offer a blend of nutrition and nostalgia, making your meal both heartwarming and hearty.

3. KIWI FROZEN YOGURT: A WHIMSICAL WORLD OF YUMMY! Ah, Kiwi. The name itself evokes images of twirling into a colorful froyo wonderland. Located smack dab in the heart of our beloved campus, this adorable yogurt hub is every Penn student’s sweet retreat after those long lectures or for a late-night snack.

The entrance is like stepping into a dream: with pastel colors, soft lighting, and a medley of melodies that make your heart do a little jive.

It’s an enchanting world, reminiscent of the candy houses we’ve read about in fairy tales. Each frozen yogurt machine promises a flavor adventure.

Whether you’re in the mood for a classic vanilla or feeling adventurous with a tangy passion fruit, there’s a flavor to match your mood.

Now, let’s talk toppings – oh, the toppings! Rows upon rows of them, from the gleaming gummy bears that seem to do a little jig, to the seductive allure of rich chocolate chips, they beckon with promises of a transformed fro-yo experience.

But that’s not all. The fruit station bursts with vibrant, fresh picks, each one waiting to dive into your bowl. Perhaps you fancy some fresh

strawberries and blueberries, or maybe a tropical mix of mangoes and Kiwi? The world is your oyster—or, in this case, your yogurt bowl!

One might think, “Is this a place for dinner?” Oh, absolutely! In the age of “Girl Dinner”, where comfort meets creativity, Kiwi is a paradise. Whether you’re in a self-love solo date mood or sharing giggles and toppings with friends, there’s no denying t h a t Kiwi offers a dinner that’s both fun and fabulously filling.

BRINGING IT ALL TOGETHER: CRAFTING THE CUTEST “GIRL DINNER” AT PENN! From the sweet symphonies of Kiwi’s fro-yo and toppings to the gourmet melodies of the Wednesday farmer’s market’s charcuterie essentials, and the refreshing notes from the Purple Stand’s fruits,

crafting a “Girl Dinner” at Penn is a harmonious affair. These places provide everything you need – sweet, savory, and fresh – to create a “Girl Dinner” that’s not just about food; it’s about embracing a

trend, personalizing it, and making memories. So, Penn students, let’s redefine dinner. Embrace the flavors, share the joy, and let every meal be a celebration. 🍇🧀

penn appétit

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cooking with funky food

By BACH HOANG Photos by MICHELLE YAO

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“Who the heck just spilled chemicals in our room?”

This horrifying substance I’ve just described is shrimp paste. It has an odor that overwhelms most, belonging to the same realm of Asian cooking that such wonderful ingredients like durian and fish sauce occupy. Although my roommates don’t believe me, you can get used to the distinct perfume — you might even grow to love it. “That’s impossible!”, you might protest, but think about it: Asians don’t have something special in our blood that means we’re resistant to stinky food. But we were born in it, molded by it. I didn’t know fresh air until I left home for the West, by then it was nothing to me but too pure!

The thing is, despite their smell, things like shrimp paste and fish sauce can add so much complexity of flavor and umami to your cooking, and many Southeast Asian recipes are a shadow of their true selves without them. The measure of any good Vietnamese restaurant selling anything but pho is the quality of their fish sauce: that’s how much of a dealbreaker it is. So, if you’re willing to dive into this ocean of potential, here are some pointers to make sure you don’t end up lost (or kicked out of your room): Specialty Grocery Stores Also known as dealers of imported goodies, these stores will stock shelves with the things ACME barely reserves an aisle for.

Lucky for you, Philly has quite a few good shops to choose from: HMart: Take the MFL all the way to Upper Darby in West Philly, and you’ll find yourself at this national grocery chain known for doling out Asian stuff galore.

store and head downstairs to pick up the funky ingredients of your choosing.

Hung Vuong Supermarket: Saving the best for last, this supermarket near Bella Vista stocks practically every Southeast Asian ingredient known to man. Walking through here is like being back at home, minus the hurried bargaining of Vietnamese aunties. While in the area, pop by Pho 75 for a bowl of soup to reward yourself for embracing new journeys.

Odor Maintenance If you don’t want to be responsible for creating an atomic-level olfactive incident in your kitchen , then it would probably be very smart to open the windows and turn on the range hood. If you’re a menace, ignore everything I’m about to say. More drastic measures include evacuating any newbies from the vicinity, and if you’re a rookie, blocking your nose somehow. A full sized gas mask should do the trick.

Also, in the name of good-spiritedness, consider putting any strong-smelling ingredients in your minifridge instead of the communal one.

Gaslight, Girlboss, Gatekeep Public disclaimer: not for the faint of

heart and may result in very angry roommates.

If you’re especially committed to the cause of strong-smelling yet tasty food, there must come a point where those in your vicinity must be converted. The process is arduous, and it is risky, but in the end, everyone should end up happy.

First, acclimate your roommates to the smell, but never tell them what it is. Deny deny deny. Then, cook for them using said ingredients, but keep this mystery unclear until you’re confident they like what they’re eating. Do this a few more times until they just get used to the weird smell or you decide to break the illusion. If you were successful: congratulations, you can now cook in peace! Otherwise, you might want to room with new people next year.

I have a sofa you can crash at in the meantime. Just make sure you like shrimp paste.

ia n

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nside my fridge, there lies a jar of purplish-grey paste. It sits alone, a pariah amongst the other fridge residents. Open it and your nose will feel like it has been struck by a playful cat. Fry it with some oil though? Your sensory system will go into overdrive, assaulted by a sickly ammonia-like smell that will waft its way across the room, faster than the most potent herb, until …

r u p i e :D c e R

Yield: 3-4 Servings Prep Time: 5 Minutes Total Time: 60 Minutes, not including rice soaking Sticky Rice: • 1 cup Thai sweet rice • 1 ¼ cup coconut cream or milk • pinch of salt • ¼ cup sugar Durian Cream: • 1 ½ cut coconut cream or milk • ¼ cup sugar, add to taste • pinch of salt • 4 pieces of durian Put it together: • 2-3 pieces of durian • pinch of palm sugar

i t S

ice R y ck Ann

a F en g

Sticky Rice: 1.

Measure and wash out rice into a rice cooker. Rinse the rice until the rice water runs clear. * Ideally soak the rice overnight 2. Let rice soak in water overnight.

3. In the rice cooker, add the coconut milk/cream, sugar, and salt, and steam the rice according to rice cooker use.

4. Allow rice to sit in the rice cooker for at least 30 minutes. Mix and fluff the rice.

Durian Cream: 1.

In a small pot, combine the coconut cream or milk into a small pot.

2. Cook the syrup over medium heat until the sugar has dissolved and the coconut cream or milk has come to a boil.

3. Turn off the heat and add durian into the pot.

4. Let the pot sit covered for 30 minutes.

To Plate: 1.

Serve a bowl of the sticky rice by pouring the durian cream over it generously. Place 1-2 slices of fresh durian on each serving.

Heng Fa: If you’re ever in Chinatown, pop by this relatively small grocery penn appétit

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A Narrative Journey Through My Mother’s Chaotic Tteokguk Recipe

by Ryu Creighton At ten years old, I learned how to stand in front of the stove, watching the pot boil. I learned how to stand and watch as anchovies and onion slices swirled around the broth, how to plop tteok (rice cakes) into the soup, and how to chop scallions and sprinkle them over a steaming bowl of the finished product.

I was learning to cook tteokguk.

Tteokguk is a traditional savory Korean rice cake soup, eaten each New

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Year’s for good luck—and also at any other time of the year because, well, it’s delicious. The broth is salty and mellow, comforting and not too loud to the tongue. It’s a warm, chewy, soft, and dynamic dish, it’s relatively easy to cook, and, in my (controversial) opinion, its leftovers only get better with time.

Some people don’t like the taste of soggy tteok. Maybe it’s my autism and

the perfect softness of leftover rice cakes that’ve been soaking in soup, but I happen to love it.

All right, let’s get to the important part, shall we? Enough with the sentimental memories. Here’s the recipe my mother taught me ten years ago for tteokguk, simplified for the ten-year-old version of me—or for a college student.

Recipe: My Mother’s Chaotic Tteokguk INGREDIENTS: • • • • •

water in a pot (fill the pot between ½ and ¾ with water) a bag of oval tteok (rice cake) soy sauce, sesame oil, salt garlic dried anchovies, onion

• • • •

wakame seaweed scallions your choice of toppings (slices egg, beef, sigeumchi namul (Korean spinach)) and black pepper if you want

** IMPORTANT ** Rule #1 of My Mother’s Chaotic Tteokguk Recipe: Proportions are fake. Pretend measuring cups don’t exist. Eyeball everything and add everything bit by bit, tasting again and again until it tastes good to you.

DIRECTIONS:

W

ait for the soup to cool slightly— slurping up tteok from boilinghot water is seriouvsly not recommended unless you’re into that kind of thing.

Which I hope you’re not because ow.

Dole out the steaming tteokguk into bowls. Add any toppings you like. No whipped cream, though. Whipped cream is not allowed, that’s weird. Garnish with

B

oil the onion pieces, dried anchovies, and three pieces of wakame seaweed for 10 minutes.

Optional: watch the anchovies swirl around with bug-eyes and wonder how crunchy they’d taste and how thick their tiny bones are. Ladle the broth ingredients out of the pot and place them in a bowl. They’re meant for adding taste to the soup base—there aren’t supposed to be any rogue onion pieces floating around in the final dish. Add soy sauce until the broth is the right shade of brown. What does the “right shade of soy sauce-brown” mean? Just keep tasting till it’s soysaucey enough. That’s what it means.

Add in salt and garlic. Keep stirring and tasting until it’s flavorful enough for you. Turn up the heat.

A

dd the tteok to the broth once it’s at a boil again. Optional: shield your face with a pot lid and wear oven mitts and put the tteok into the boiling

water with a ladle so your face doesn’t get splashed by the unlikely stray drop of boiling liquid. Or, just drop them in carefully…that works too, I guess. Less dramatic and flavorful, though. Keep the tteokguk boiling.

E

very so often, pick one rice cake up with a wooden spoon, run it under water to cool it off, and then bite it to see if it’s soft enough. If it’s not, back in the pot. Optional: stand in front of the stove, staring at the mesmerizing dance of boiling tteok and lose track of time until you snap out of it and realize you need to check up on that boiling tteok instead of just holding a staring contest with it.

When the tteokguk are soft enough, turn off the stove.

chopped scallions, sesame oil, and black pepper if you like things (sparkle emoji) spicy (sparkle emoji).

Slurp. Time to enjoy!

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APPLE DUMPLINGS n ow r b

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Recipe by Rachel Fischer Photo by Fiona Wu Yield: 12 servings Prep Time: 60 Minutes (+ time for dough to chill) Total Time: 90 Minutes

Ingredients Dough • • • • •

2½ cups all purpose flour ¾ tsp salt ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter (cubed, chilled) ½ cup vegetable shortening ½ cup ice water (will be used 1 tbsp at a time)

Filling • • • • • • •

6 honeycrisp or small granny smith apples 1/3 cup dark brown sugar 1½ tsp ground cinnamon 1/8 tsp nutmeg ½ tsp salt 8 tbsp unsalted butter (room temperature) 1 egg beat with 1 tbsp heavy whipping cream (egg wash)

Directions •

Dough

Dumplings

1.

1.

Stir together the flour and salt in a large bowl.

Add in the cubed butter and vegetable short-

eg tm nu

ening.

2.

lengthwise (should look like a ring shape).

2.

and salt. Rub each apple generously with this

ture until the butter and shortening become

mixture.

3.

Add in the water, 1 tbsp at a time, stirring

•

well after each addition until the mixture just

4.

Cut the chilled dough into 12 even pieces. Roll out each piece until 1/8 inch thick and around

cream

Cover with plastic wrap and place in the fridge for 2 hours to chill (or overnight).

Combine the remaining sugar mix with the butter and set aside.

begins to come together into a dough.

4.

Stir together the brown sugar, cinnamon,

Using a whisk or fork, combine the flour mixthe size of peas.

3.

Peel and core the apples, slicing them in half

6 inches in diameter.

5.

Place the apple, cut side down, on the dough and fill the core with the butter mixture.

6.

Gather the ends of the dough around the top of the apple and pinch it to make a dumpling.

•

7.

Brush with egg wash, sprinkle with coarse white sugar, and bake for ~25 minutes (or until

cinn a m on

golden brown).

8.

Serve with ice cream, homemade whipped cream, or caramel sauce.

9.

Enjoy!

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the greatest

GRAIN..

GRAIN

By Zachary Tran // Illustrations by Joyce Yoon

R

ice is the most consumed and thirdmost produced food in the world. It accounts for one-fifth of all calories consumed on earth. And it is my favorite food. It’s such a staple in my diet that I even wrote my common app essay about it, so allow me to share with you the tiny little grain almost anyone can love.

Sushi Sushi is arguably the most popular rice dish in the west. The origins of sushi go back many centuries. The idea was that vinegar rice could be used to preserve fish (before refrigeration) into the Japanese winters. While at first, people only ate the fish, soon the rice was consumed with it. The word sushi first referred to the vinegar rice that Japanese people made to preserve the fish. By the industrial age, sushi was a common food around Japan and as refrigeration grew, so did the technique of eating raw fish with sushi rice. Fish was able to be shipped worldwide and sushi followed.

In America, sushi is a staple. Two of the most popular rolls are named after US locations: California and Philadelphia.

The Philadelphia roll was an attempt to copy the lox and cream cheese flavor so popular on bagels, and it was invented right here – just off the Delaware river, only eight blocks south of the Liberty Bell.

Between McClelland and Bento, I’ve been spending too many swipes and dollars eating sushi (and chicken bowls) whenever I miss rice.

Pho In Northern China, circa 200 B.C., wheat was the common foundation for noodles at the time; however, southerners had an abundance of rice which grew in the hotter, more humid south. They (the northern cooks) created rice noodles to make use of both resources. Over time the process has been refined and rice noodle dishes are a staple throughout not only the country but the world. Especially in South and Southeast Asia, rice noodles are widely consumed.

Head southeast from the creation of rice noodles and you will find Vietnam.

While the history of Pho is widely debated, going back as far as the early 20th century, Pho was already a national staple. And from the refugees of the Vietnam War, Pho joined the global stage and became Vietnam’s national dish. Hanoi (Northern) and Saigon (Southern) styles of Pho are different in noodle thickness, herb use, and broth, but there are similarities that have presented themselves in the form of Vietnamese-American Pho you are likely to find in America.

Typically made with an overnight beef broth, it is a hot soup with thin (or thick) noodles, and covered in herbs. It can be enjoyed at any time of the day and any time of the year. Even in Vietnam’s

other things. The versatility of rice is best shown in Horchata, being a creamy, flavorful drink that can take on many different flavors. It represents the household in its ability to be made in many different ways; each person has their own unique styles based on the passing down of recipes over generations.

Rice still goes beyond these three dishes. Throughout my childhood and the childhood of billions around the world, rice is the perfect side for any home cooked meal. Whether it’s in addition to steak, chicken, or pork, rice finds its way on my plate. It’s the perfect compliment to any protein or veggie if given the chance. I’ve shown you three of the innumerable rice dishes around the world, but nothing beats simple rice in its pure, steamed form.

Mochi Squares Yield: 9–16 Servings Prep Time: 15 Minutes Total Time: 70 Minutes

Ingredients:

1 cup glutinous rice flour ½ cup granulated sugar 1 tsp baking powder 1 large egg 1 cup canned coconut milk (Aroy-D full-fat preferred) A pinch of salt 1 tbsp flavoring powder [matcha, cocoa powder, ube powder, etc.], optional

Directions: 90 degree summer weather. It is my bid for the best noodle soup dish in the world. It has always represented home for me, as a Vietnamese-American. I can never get sick of it and it’ll be the first thing I have when my plane lands for Winter Break.

Horchata Rice doesn’t just make dishes, however. In the 11th century, after the establishment of rice in Spain, Horchata was invented.

Made of white rice milk and cinnamon, it is a sweet, milk-like drink enjoyed on hot days. It made its way to the new world and became a staple in Latin American cuisine. Some renditions include nuts, vanilla, or real animal milk among

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. 2. Grease and line an 8x8" pan.

3. Combine all dry ingredients in one bowl (flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, and flavoring powder).

4. Whisk together egg and coconut milk in a separate bowl.

5. Mix the wet ingredients into the dry ingredient mixture.

6. Pour the batter into the pan and tap against a counter gently to get rid of any air bubbles.

7. Bake for 35–40 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean.

8. Let cool, then remove and slice into square pieces; dust with flavoring powder if desired.

Enjoy! penn appétit

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BY EMILY ZHANG PHOTOS BY JAMES TRAN

H

ome. From growing up in

and we got busier, we still managed to

at the top of my list, with busting Taro

Shanghai, China, to moving

stop by every so often, by Septa bus or

tapioca balls, living up to its Michelin

to suburban Michigan, before

subway, whatever was easiest.

star expectations.

coming here to Philly, my place of home has

Each meal in Chinatown was a feast

Staying in Philly over the summer

always been changing. But my developing

for my stomach, which refused to adapt

was a new opportunity for me to bring

palate has always been constant, with an

to the dining halls. I devoured hand-

out my inner chef. I was responsible for

irresistible craving for authentic Chinese

drawn noodles from Spice C, took my

every one of my meals, a welcome break

and Asian fusion (morphed from my

family to Penang for Malaysian food

from Penn Dining, and what better way

experiences living here in the States)

(again, as it was my dad’s favorite ever

to celebrate than by bringing home to

cuisine. And so upon entering college,

since we tried it visiting before college),

my summer apartment’s kitchen?

my hunt for food from home began.

and even celebrated my birthday with

Summer trips to Chinatown were a lot

Given the lack of a kitchen from living

friends and authentic Szechuan food at

more frequent than during the school

in Hill freshman year, my search began

EMei. But what is a full meal without

year, but with an extra stop—the bustling

with a series of Chinatown expeditions.

dessert? My sweet tooth has taken me

grocery stores. Each time I passed by the

At first, other Chinatown enthusiasts

to popular dessert spots such as Mango

wide assortment of fruits and veggies

and I walked the 40+ minute trek down

Mango and Matcha Panda, but my go-to

placed outside of the store front, I would

Chestnut St., which was no easy task,

would definitely be grabbing a nostalgic

be lured through the plastic curtains of

but freshman me was so in awe of living

warm red bean bun or crisp Pineapple

the grocery store entrance. Seeing stores

in such close proximity to a Chinatown

bun from whichever bakery was closest.

such as Heng Fa or Asian Fresh food

that the long walk meant nothing in

Other times boba was the dessert—

markets is reminiscent of not only the

comparison. As the weather got cooler

Chicha San Chen’s boba is unrivaled

168 Asian Mart from back in Michigan, penn appétit

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choy (a household vegetable in Chinese cuisine),

Chinese

nawpa

cabbage

(perfect for at-home hotpot), Taiwanese sweet sausage (an all-time favorite of mine), and way too many snacks. In fact, the snack section would always be my favorite. Each time I visited, I would return with the snacks of my childhood, from Hawthorn Flakes (a sweet and tart disk made from hawthorn fruit) to Wang but also the grocery stores back in China.

Wang Little Steamed Buns (a milk-

From the fresh vegetable stands to the

flavored, bun-tasting crispy treat) to

meats to the seafood aisle with tanks of

Sachima (a Rice Krispies-like traditional

fish, I would be surrounded by groceries

egg pastry snack) and more.

that I would never be able to find at our

When I was too lazy or busy to make

local Acme or GIANT Heirloom Market,

it all the way to Chinatown and haul

but would always find in my fridge in

those groceries back, I would use my

Michigan and back in China.

newfound favorite grocery app, Weee!.

My go-to groceries were somehow

With free shipping over 50 dollars, my

always similar. I would always buy bok

biggest dilemma would always be what should I get to reach that price, instead of whether to order at all and spend that much money. With so many possible options from the app, I was able to get creative with my meals this semester (with a special mention to pomelo, my newfound favorite fruit). Instead of stopping by Commons, I could just boil some water in my Rodin kitchen for my ready-to-cook dumplings of multiple types of fillings, beef and scallion being my favorite. Or, I could wash up some bok choy and fry up an egg to add to my Kang Shi Fu brand braised artificial beef flavored ramen noodles. Worst case,

20

penn appétit

if I’m lazy enough, I could pop open a

the

dumpling

serving of ready-to-eat mixed congee for

wrappers).

less than three dollars per can.

so, my roommates

And

On the weekends, when I had time to

and I put this

cook, I found myself cooking up Asian

plan to action.

fusion experiments. There were days

Using

where I had leftovers from a lamb over

infused wonton

rice from a halal food truck. So I turned it

wrappers

into an egg fried rice by adding egg, cut-

for

up bok choy, Taiwanese sweet sausage,

but I was curious

imitation crab, and vegetable mix. If I

about the spinach-infused part) and

didn’t have leftovers, I would just make

ground turkey (mistakenly bought but

the fried rice with my cauliflower rice. On

ended up working), bok choy, and egg for

other days I felt like spicing up an omelet,

filling, our Asian fusion dumplings were

so I added bok choy (again), shrimp,

gobbled up happily.

spinach(not

dumplings

cabbage, and ketchup (somewhat of an

From Philly Chinatown to the Rodin

odd combo but delicious nonetheless).

kitchen to my future food endeavors,

A few weeks ago me and my roommate

who knows where my search for food

decided to journey to the H Mart near

from home will take me? Morphed by my

69th

station.

experiences, all I know is that my palate

Seeing the plethora of asian groceries,

will always crave that bite of China—

we made the spontaneous decision to

reminiscent of home but also the

make dumplings from scratch (minus

fusion of something new, and delicious

Street

transportation

nonetheless.

penn appétit

21

A Taste of Home:

Ama Fr Article Randy Bach

☞

interview with

☞

The 2023 Penn Appétit Board

Photos Perry World House

H Home means something unique to everyone.

When I think of home, food and family come to mind. I remember eating dinner at six o’clock sharp every single day, planning impressive feasts to bring to family potlucks, and asking my mom for her most treasured recipes. Now as a college student, however, I have a completely different outlook on food; I’m rushed to throw together quick dinners and cook alone with less than three square feet of counter space. But

whenever I have the rare chance to treat cooking as a source of enjoyment rather than a necessity, I think of my family. Taking years of their advice and inspiration, I connect with them one dish at a time in my isolated kitchen.

It’s not as different for celebrity chefs and famous cookbook authors as you might think. This past semester, Penn Appétit Board had the amazing opportunity to talk with Amanda

Chopped, Culture,

☞

anda eitagon AND HER

Culinary Journey Freitag, an American chef best known for her work on Food Network as well as her cookbooks and other culinary accomplishments. As a frequent judge on the cooking show Chopped, Amanda critiques chefs’ takes on unconventional ingredients while working alongside other leaders in the food industry.

Currently, she lives in New York, writing, cooking, and continuously refining her definition of what it means to be a chef.

Throughout our time talking with Amanda, we not only gain insight into her numerous contributions to the culinary world, but also about her perspective on home. We learn about her experiences as a cooking show judge, the values underlying her cooking, and her tips on how to find a sense of belonging —no matter how far away from home we may be. Her message is something I’ll continue to take with me throughout my

time at Penn and beyond, reassuring me that home isn’t only something we can experience during holidays and breaks.

Home can be found in my kitchen, crafted with simple Acme groceries, some busted cooking equipment, and a remembrance of what makes me me. ** This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity. **

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23

Alex B.: As a judge on Chopped, you’re someone we’re so privileged to meet because I think most of us grew up watching you on T.V.! What keeps you coming back to Chopped after all these years? Are you continuously surprised? Do you keep learning new things?

Amanda’s Story Shan Shan: Amanda, we’d love to hear an intro about you—where you’re from and your story, specifically how you developed your passion for food.

All right! I’m from New Jersey. I grew up in a house with two working parents, and my mom, I think, felt guilty about not being around, so she just smothered us with food, snacks, and ready-to-make things after school. Our solution to everything in our family was to eat. If you don’t feel good, you eat. If you’re tired, you eat. If you’re happy, you eat.

Food was everything.

When I started to work in a restaurant when I was 15, I fell in love with the energy, the chaos, and the camaraderie.

Randy: What kind of restaurant did you work at?

It was a big facility with a banquet hall and an à la carte restaurant that served American-style food. Then, my home economics teacher actually introduced me to the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, and the rest is kind of history after that.

Tips to Win Chopped 24

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You know, it’s funny because after 800 and something episodes, it’s still really interesting. And I think the possibilities are endless of what can go in the basket and then what can be cooked. I think it’s always surprising to see what the chefs do, whether they’re successful or not. Sometimes, it’s just trying to get in the mind of that chef. What were they thinking? Wow, how did they think of that? So to me, it’s endlessly entertaining even just sitting there, even if I have to eat a good, bad, or indifferent dish. It’s just wild because the interpretation from each of the four chefs is always something different.

We have an amazing culinary production team that puts together the ingredients in the baskets—they’ve been doing it for years. They have spreadsheets and try not to repeat combinations. When they put the combination together, they make the basket, ensuring that it can be cooked and that it’s possible. Nine times out of ten, the four chefs don’t make what we thought they would make. It’s like, wow, why didn’t they make a soup, or a meatball? It’s exciting to see, you know, the mind of a chef. I wouldn’t have done that or I should have done that. So it’s never boring for me. It never gets boring.

Anna: Yeah, it seems like such a fun job! We’re also wondering if there’s a strong correlation between cooking something that comes from the chef’s home or culture and doing well on the show, versus cooking something that’s very extravagant and just trying to impress?

That’s a really good question because I think the biggest mistake that chefs sometimes make in competition is to try and do something that they have never done before or they don’t know. It’s really hard because you get there and you want to be super ambitious, but I think it’s really important to just do what you’re

good at and what you know.

Shan Shan: Tying in to our magazine’s A lot of times, we’ve seen people theme for this semester, “Close to cook outside of their culture or foods Home,” what is your favorite home-y they’re familiar with cooking, like, let’s dish? What would you make for your say in the first round, and it’s just like… family or a crowd? What’s your go-to? okay. And then if they make it to the second round and finally do their food, So many choices. If I’m making dinner on we’re like – oh! – thank you. Thank you a Sunday night and just want something for doing your comforting, I’ll food. Why were usually just throw in you holding back? a whole roast chicken, They always really heavily spiced. say they were Mashed potatoes and Food... speaks on trying to impress squeeze lemon all over or, you know, the history of that it. It’s simple. do something But we have a piece of land and different. It’s like, little bit of an Italian that area, and no, no, no, no, heritage in my family no—show us who for any culture, so it’s also like Sunday you are. We love night pasta with you can learn a to learn about meatballs and Caesar lot about their different cultures salad and crusty bread and how you might culture through with a big glass of red incorporate strange wine. It’s another meal their ingredients. basket ingredients. that can be shared

Home Is Where the Food Is Randy: Something that stuck with us is when you said, “Whenever I get to eat someone’s food, I get to understand their culture.” Can you speak more on that and how you came to that conclusion?

Yeah, I mean, it’s been a lifelong journey of learning about all these different cultures. Obviously culinary school was based on French cuisine, and then we were taught many different regional cuisines; on my own, I fell in love with certain things like Italian and Spanish cuisine. I got to work in France for a little while, and I feel like even just through ingredients, you learn a lot about the history of the country. You know, I think what people don’t even understand about Italy is that Northern Italy is very creamy with pastas and cheeses, and they use potatoes a lot because that’s what they have in that region. You go down to Sicily and it’s hot and there’s capers and eggplants and spicy peppers.

That dictates their food. It speaks on the history of that piece of land and that area, and for any culture, you can learn a lot about their culture through their ingredients.

that food, right? Unless your mom or your dad or aunt or uncle sends you food.

Randy: I know some people who have families nearby, and their fridge is always packed with frozen meals from their parents. I’m from California, so I can’t really do that. I have to go out to Vietnamese restaurants in South Philly to find my fix.

Yeah, and I also think it’s really cool to seek out restaurants in the city. In your area, or where you’re going to school, you need to find that place that reminds you of home. Maybe you can eat there once a week or once a month.

But I think it’s also great to share cross-cultural things and cook together.

Let’s say you had a roommate that was from Denmark, you know, and you guys are sharing different foods, and they’re cooking gravlax and pancakes and whatever. It’s so interesting to see sometimes the commonality in that, despite how far away your homes are. with a lot of people But cooking, I know, is hard sometimes around the table. because you don’t have a lot of space That’s good comfort and you don’t have a lot of money. But I food for me. I’m also think even a simple, simple dish can do a burger girl, so I love a good burger. it. That’s the stuff we love, right? The When I was in culinary school and my simplest of dishes, even like street food or parents came to visit, halfway through, sandwiches. It’s something that represents they were like, “where do you want to go culture so much. out to eat? We’ll take you anywhere And it’s great if you want something fancy,” or because Philadelphia whatever. I was like, I want to has so many go to the diner, and I just different cultures, want a burger. That was In your area, or and you can all I wanted, and it was so where you’re going find just about comforting, you know? anything here. to school, you need And if you can’t, Ashrit: One thing we to find that place you just get on were just wondering: that reminds you of a train and come from our personal to New York. I home. experience, we are love Philly, and I’m lucky enough to be in a New Yorker. That’s a university community controversial. where there are people from all over the world, and I feel like some people can find it difficult to create a sense of home in a new place.

What suggestions would you have?

For students, or just anyone in a new place, how can we use food in a way that helps them create a home for themselves?

I think it’s really important to cook. I mean, I don’t know how much access you have in the dorms, but like, if you have a community kitchen or a small little hot plate in your room, I think it’s really important because how else do you get penn appétit

25

home for the holidays

by Samantha Kaufman illustrations by Wei-An Jin

W

hen the last maple leaf falls onto Locust Walk and the warm autumn breeze begins to have a bite, it is clear that the most wonderful time of the year has arrived: the holiday season. No matter which traditions or religious holidays one may observe, there is always something (or someone) that makes being home for the holidays feel so special. For a foodie, homecooked meals prepared with love make for the perfect treat, encapsulating the warmth and togetherness of the holiday season in a singular bite. In speaking with fellow Penn students, they were similarly able to corroborate this connection between food and home, sharing their favorite family holiday recipes.

1.

Though many individuals who observe Channukah will attest that their favorite part of the holiday is receiving gifts on all eight nights, most foodies will beg to differ. Whether it be sufganiyot (jelly donuts), challah, brisket, or latkes (potato pancakes), Channukah food staples are always a hit during the holiday season. In the case of Noah Sonnenklar (C ‘27), his family has perfected the latke recipe, impressing both family members and friends with his Grandma Suzz’s famous traditional potato pancakes.

...

Grandma Suzz’s Potato Pancakes • 6 medium potatoes, grated • 11 small onions, grated • 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour • 2 teaspoons baking powder • 1 teaspoon salt • Pinch of black pepper • ½ cup oil Instructions: 1. Combine the grated onions and potatoes, all-purpose flour, baking powder, salt, and pepper in a large bowl, mixing well 2. Heat half the oil in a skillet and once hot, add tablespoon-sized dollops of the potato mixture into the pan, frying until golden brown on both sides 3. Repeat the process until all the potato mixture is fried, adding additional oil to the skillet as needed 4. Serve with applesauce and sour cream as optional dipping sauces

2.

Kenzie Clark’s (C ‘27) extended family hails from New Zealand, and they celebrate the holidays by whipping up Kiwi classics ranging from pavlova to lolly log cakes and Kenzie’s personal favorite: her Grandma Beverly’s fudge cake. A recipe passed down through the Clark generations, Grandma Beverly’s fudge cake is an irresistible chocolatey treat that will undoubtedly put you in the holiday spirit.

...

Grandma Beverly’s Fudge Cake • 2x Goya Maria Palmeritas cookies • 8 oz butter • 1 cup sugar • 2 eggs • 2 tablespoons cocoa powder • 2 teaspoons vanilla Instructions: 1.

Add butter, cocoa powder, sugar, and vanilla into a medium saucepan and melt over low heat, stirring often 2. Once melted, take off the heat and let cool 3. Whisk the two eggs in a small bowl and pour into the chocolate mixture, stirring to combine 4. Put batter back on low heat and stir until it comes to a boil 5. Take batter off heat and fold in crushed Palmeritas cookies 6. Pour batter into a container and store in the fridge to set

3.

An international student from Greece, George Pangalos (W ‘27) describes Greek Christmas festivities as some of the largest celebrations of the year. After a hearty home-cooked dinner of glazed turkey and chestnut soup, George will round out his meal with a classic Greek Christmas dessert: kourabiedes (butter cookies). Made with love by George’s grandmother, these cookies are a fan favorite in the Pangalos household.

...

Opa’s Kourabiedes • 8 cups flour • 3 egg yolks • 1 cup Cognac • 1 tablespoon baking powder • 4 cups butter • 1 cup powdered sugar • 1 ⅔cup sliced roasted almonds Instructions: 1.

Preheat oven to 350°F℉ 2. In a stand mixer, add butter and whisk at high speed until it reaches a white, fluffy texture (~25 minutes) 3. In a separate large bowl, add the flour, egg yolks, Cognac, baking powder, whisked butter, powdered sugar, and sliced almonds, kneading the dough until smooth 4. Roll the dough into balls that are ~1 tablespoon in size then create a small dimple in the ball by lightly pressing your fingertip into the middle of the dough 5. Bake in the oven until golden brown and let cool 6. Garnish with sifted powdered sugar

penn appétit

27

ARTICLE BY ISABELLE KONG PHOTOS BY AARON, LUCAS & MONIKA LEE

How To Embrace the Freshman 15

T

h e start of freshman year – questionable decisions, bewildering course schedules, and the realization of how far DRL really is – hits you faster than a rogue frisbee in the Quad. Of course, nothing beats the problem of homesickness. Your family, your bed, and the privacy of your very own shower seem light years away. Once you’re settled in and more comfortable with your new environment, however, another issue emerges. What are you supposed to do about food? Sure, your shiny new PennCard is stocked up with swipes, but there are only so many McClelland chicken bowls one can stomach. Dining dollars do exist, but if you’re not careful, one too many Stommons visits will have your balance sitting at zero.

Foods Worthy of the

Freshman 15 Not to add more to your plate, but there’s also the infamous Freshman 15, which refers to the pounds students tend to put on during their first year of college.

Since it’s difficult to cook for yourself if you live in a dorm, it’s easy to overindulge in convenient options that aren’t the best for your health. When your kitchen consists of a microwave and a mini-fridge, you probably won’t be swapping frozen meals for mixed greens.

If you’re thinking it’s time I drop some tips for healthy eating, I’m sorry to disappoint. In fact, it’s quite the contrary: I’m about to show you how to embrace the Freshman 15 on your own terms. If you’re planning to put on a few pounds, why not make sure it’s for a righteous cause? This is definitely a menu worthy of putting on fifteen or more. Personally, these picks take me down memory lane while simultaneously introducing me to the unique flavors of Penn. We all deserve a comfort meal and sweet treat once in a while, so pick up your fork and dig in!

Appetizer: Cheddar Jalapeño Pull-Apart Bread Trader Joe’s (Center City)

Starting off strong, this is a personal favorite that keeps the homesickness at bay. At our last sleepover before my best friend and I parted ways for college, we polished off an entire package of this cheesy perfection. Now each bite I take brings me back to her kitchen, where we shamelessly devoured Trader Joe’s Cheddar Jalapeño Pull-Apart Bread at five in the morning. The name is certainly a mouthful, but it’s nothing compared to the heavenly dough you could be chewing on instead. All the cheddar and

sliced jalapeño peppers you could ever want are only a short trek away. Just think of the grocery haul you can give your roommate later! When it’s past midnight and you’re studying in your dorm on an empty stomach, this beloved bread is far more reliable than any dining hall that shut its doors hours ago. While it’s best cooked in an oven or air fryer, your trusty microwave will work just fine. If you’re that ravenous, you can even feast on it right out of the bag. For students worried about making a dent in their wallets, Joe has your back; $4.99 isn’t a steep price to pay for a whopping six servings of fluffy focaccia.

Entree: “The Rittenhouse” Mac Mart (Center City) For our main course, we have the ultimate comfort meal of macaroni and cheese. But not just any old Mac (no offense, Kraft Dinner). Stop by this cozy Mac’n Cheesery and take your pick from their sprawling menu, which offers mouthwatering bowls for all cravings. I went with “The Rittenhouse” when I visited during NSO, and I’m not exaggerating when I say I haven’t been able to get it off my mind since. Their classic Mac topped with garlic sautéed spinach and artichoke dip is an irresistible flavor combination. While Mac Mart’s slogan boasts, “Not Your Mamma’s Mac!”, my order actually reminds me of fond family dinner nights. Whenever we went out to restaurants, my parents would always order spinach artichoke dip to share. While it’s not quite the same as having it back home, “The Rittenhouse” brings me bittersweet comfort.

Not a fan of spinach or artichokes? No worries! Are you feeling the “Barclay Basil

Chicken” topped with pesto-marinated chicken chunks and potato-chip panko crunch? Or is it an indulgent “In the Buff” kind of day, with buffalo chicken chunks and Pam Pam’s buttermilk ranch?

Regardless of your final decision, your Mac will be so satisfyingly scrumptious that it’s home in a microwave-safe bowl, which is perfect for handling leftovers (if you have any left, that is).

Dessert: Cookie’wich Insomnia Cookies As someone with a severe sweet tooth, I firmly believe no meal is complete without dessert. That’s why we’ll be wrapping up with the most formidable treat I’ve had in a minute, which is none other than the Cookie’wich. If you’ve ever stepped foot in Houston Market, you’re definitely familiar with the alluringly buttery aroma of Insomnia Cookies. Don’t fight it; resistance is futile. Follow your nose to the sweetest place on campus, where you’ll order a Cookie’wich with double-chocolate chunk cookies and Cookies n’ Dream ice cream. This heavenly creation combines the best of both worlds, and let me assure you, it’ll become the highlight of your month. These cookies are generously packed with rich, velvety chocolate, while your taste buds will sing with joy at the delightful mountain of Oreo-studded ice cream. It’s hefty enough to cure virtually any crisis you encounter, whether it’s bombing a midterm or, in my friend’s case, literally falling for your crush. She once slipped and took a tumble right in front of a certain someone, leaving her so distraught that we declared it a sweet-treat-worthy emergency. Of course, we headed straight to Insomnia Cookies, and a Cookie’wich later, it was practically a distant memory. penn appétit

29

THE

SCIIE

NCE

BEHI

30

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Arti c PHOT le by Jo O BY yce ILLU STRA AARON L HE TION E S BY E AND M ON AARO N LE IKA LEE E

ND

D

I

used to loathe leftovers. I saw them as sorry sludges and soggy messes valiantly clinging onto what they had been in their prime. At home, my dad had been the affectionately-dubbed “trash can,” dutifully finishing whatever leftovers we had in the fridge (even those that probably should have gone into the actual trash can). But with my dad now miles away, college has forced me to confront those old demons, to make peace with and even embrace eating day(s)-old food.

Eating leftovers is as much an art – dry, takeout rice from Sang Kee can become the major flavor carrier in a shrimp stir-fry – as it is a science.

The chemical reactions that give a dish its flavors, colors, and textures in the sizzling pan give way to other ones that lace together new flavors and textures in the fridge. Below, I explore the two most common chemical reactions that make leftovers, leftovers, and how certain foods may surprisingly taste better after a sojourn in the fridge.

“These small molecules are what produce the off-flavors and aromas characteristic of leftovers, which some have coined the ‘warmed-over flavor’ (WOF).”

Reaction No. 1:

Reaction No. 2:

Retrogradation

Oxidation

During the cooking process, starchcontaining foods like potatoes and rice undergo gelatinization. Their starch granules absorb water and swell, converting their crystalline structures into a gel-like consistency, thereby making them more digestible. Retrogradation occurs when these gelatinized starches begin to cool down: the granules rearrange and realign themselves back into a crystalline structure, resulting in the un-sliceable, rock-hard bagels that have sat one too many times at the back of my fridge.

The principal driver of food spoilage, oxidation, occurs when food comes into contact with oxygen. Lipids, or fats, in food react with oxygen to form lipid byproducts (lipid hydroperoxides) which undergo further degradation into small volatile molecules (e.g. aldehydes and ketones).

These small molecules are what produce the off-flavors and aromas characteristic of leftovers, which some have coined the “warmed-over flavor” (WOF). You might have encountered this “stale” or even “rancid” taste while eating a warmed up plate of chicken or roast pork. Fattier cuts of meat get a stronger dose of WOF, simply because the more fat, the more oxidation.

When opening a container of day-old mashed `potatoes or lentils, you may also have noticed the thin film of water sitting on the surface. That’s the same water that was originally absorbed by the starch granules during cooking then released during retrogradation. It’s completely safe to eat and can be mixed back into the dish but it’s impossible for the granules to reabsorb the water and re-gelatinize. Hence the unfortunate consequence that we can’t ever return mashed potatoes or rice to their original soft and fluffy glory. However, for a dish like mashed potatoes, it is possible to salvage a bit of that glory by adding in more butter and cream when preparing it, as fats help tenderize the network that starch molecules form after retrogradation.

One way to combat oxidation is to use antioxidants.

These are molecules that help delay the onset of oxidation, and in turn keep a food’s freshness and color intact longer. Herbs like rosemary and thyme happen to come with a healthy serving of antioxidants, making them not only flavorenhancers but also flavor-preservers (a reason why they’re commonly used in making sausages). penn appétit

31

WHEN LEFT I

’ve been ragging on leftovers like the former leftovers loather I was, but it’s due time to highlight the wonderfully unexpected addendums and reinventions in flavor and texture that leftovers can bring.

Take a fragrant chili or curry, for instance. These are slow-moving flavor behemoths that common wisdom tells us only get better with time—vfor good reason. While simmering on a stove, a stew’s aromatics (think onion, garlic, peppers, herbs) undergo a number of complex, simultaneous reactions that produce flavor and aroma compounds which react with proteins and starches. As fatsoluble compounds, they also seek out the fatty elements of a dish like heavy cream or coconut

32

penn appétit

TOVERS SHINE milk. Refrigeration or simply sitting on the stove gives the flavor molecules more time to mingle and make their way around the dish, making them more accessible to our taste buds and odor receptors.

The result is a more well-rounded flavor profile that allows the variety of flavors to fuse together instead of sticking out individually. This mellowed out flavor turf gives the chance for umami compounds to stand out, intensifying the rich, meaty punch of savory deliciousness Texture-wise, reheating a meat stew will also make it thicker and creamier.

Heat further breaks down the fibers in the protein, releasing the gelatinous material holding together meat cells which seeps out and thickens the surrounding liquid.

Additionally, remember the two horsemen that have earned leftovers a bad rap? Oxidation and retrogradation can also lend a hand in enhancing a dish’s flavors.

For instance, the sulfur compounds responsible for the bitterness of raw or freshly cooked cruciferous vegetables (e.g. kale or broccoli) oxidize easily, reducing their harsh taste. And when starch molecules in pasta retrograde, the flavor compounds that are in the surrounding s a u c e t r a p p e d become inside of the pasta’s crystalline s t r u c t u r e s, strengthening the marriage of flavors.

I’ll never understand the hype around cold fried chicken, but leftovers, like so many things in life, are just another lesson that change isn’t all bad.

penn appétit

33

t i y Ba e m o H means

BY SAMANTHA KAUFMAN PHOTOS BY FIONA WU

34

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e are suppos ed to w , ion read’ t i d rt a ak b he people we lo ve” re d by t de

wi sh

ry-Free D ai

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ou

surr

“In J e

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n b

Apple Cake

hen walking into the kitchen of Rabbi Misha Clebaner on Friday night, you are immediately greeted with the comforting smells of brisket or the sweet scent of carrots cooking to a crisp in the oven. Whether it be the fan favorite spread – teriyaki salmon, apple walnut salad, and roasted maple butternut squash – or an alternate assortment of dishes, Clebaner, Penn’s campus rabbi and Bayit director, cooks up a storm in his home every Friday night for Shabbat dinner. First established on Penn’s campus in 2015, Bayit (translating to “home” or “the house” in Hebrew) has provided Clebaner with the means to host weekly dinners for Penn students who do not have the opportunity to commemorate Shabbat with their families. This organization provides Jewish students a different modality to connect with others, engaging in interpersonal conversation in a more intimate atmosphere. Bayit at Penn is the only chapter of this organization catered solely to undergraduates, making the experience all the more special for students.

With regard to the food, meals are typically served in courses, and all of the dishes are home cooked with love by Clebaner’s wife, Annabelle. Discovering her natural talent in the kitchen when cooking for her two children, Mrs. Clebaner describes the students who attend Bayit Shabbat dinners as an “extended family,” The Bayit menu is constantly evolving to include new recipes—Clebaner

R ecip e even

contests that it is “rare to have a recurring dish or recipe on the menu.’”

In preparation for Friday night Shabbat dinners, Clebaner often surveys guests to better understand which foods are readily available to students at campus eateries. “I try to offer meals to students that they will not find in the average dining hall,” explains Clebaner, “I pride myself in being able to cater meals specifically to a student’s wants and/or needs.” Whether dairy-free apple cake, a dessert typically eaten on the Jewish New Year, or gluten-free latkes, Clebaner always ensures he is aware and accommodating of any food sensitivities, helping students feel more at home.

If students are unable to attend Friday night Shabbat, Bayit offers other opportunities for students to embrace their inner foodie, including challah bakes, Philly Jewish food tastings, and bagel brunches. During these events, Clebaner’s dining room table is brimming with sweet and savory treats for students to enjoy. “In Jewish tradition, we are supposed to 'break bread' (an act symbolizing thankfulness on Shabbat) surrounded by the people we love,” explains Clebaner. “At Bayit, we aim to foster genuine connections between undergraduate students, turning strangers into lifelong friends.”

Yield: 10–12 Servings Prep Time: 60 Minutes Total Time: 150 Minutes • • • • • • • •

6–8 Granny Smith apples (peeled and thinly sliced) 1 ½ tablespoons cinnamon sugar 3 eggs 1 ½ cups caster sugar 1 ½ cups light olive oil or vegetable oil 3 teaspoons vanilla extract 1 ½ all purpose flour extra cinnamon sugar, for sprinkling

1.

Preheat the oven to 350˚F Grease and line the base and side of a 10 in. springform cake tin.

2.

Layer the apple slices in the prepared tin so they come about two-thirds of the way up the side. Sprinkle the cinnamon sugar over the apples.

3.

Make a batter by beating the eggs and sugar until light and fluffy. Add the oil and vanilla and beat well, then stir in the flour. Spoon the batter on top of the cinnamon-covered apples and sprinkle with extra cinnamon sugar.

4.

Bake for 1 hour 20 minutes, or until a skewer comes out clean when inserted into the cake. Cool in the tin. Serve warm with cream or ice cream.

5.

Enjoy!

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Baingan Bharta

Recipe by Nik Kathiresan · Illustration by Yune Kim

Yield:

Directions:

4–6 servings

1.

Lay the eggplant on the gas flame of the hob and leave until soft and black, turning regularly to ensure they are cooked evenly.

2.

Put ghee in a frying pan over medium heat, and saute onions with a pinch of salt until soft.

3.

Stir in ginger, garlic, and chillies and cook, stirring for another minute or two. Then, add garam masala and tomatoes, and cook until tomatoes start to soften.

4.

Scoop the eggplant flesh out of the skin and add to the pan.

5.

Mash with a wooden spoon until fairly smooth, then leave to simmer until most of the liquid has evaporated.

6.

Meanwhile, roughly chop the cilantro.

7.

Stir in chopped cilantro and a little more garam masala to taste, and squeeze in lime juice to taste.

8.

Serve with white rice or naan, and enjoy!

Prep Time: 10 minutes

Cook Time: 40 minutes

Ingredients: •

2 medium eggplants

•

3 tbsp ghee

•

3 red onions, peeled and sliced

•

3 tbsp ginger, peeled and finely chopped

•

2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed

•

2 small green chillies, slit lengthways

•

½ tsp garam masala

•

4 medium tomatoes, roughly chopped

•

1 handful fresh cilantro, to serve

•

1 lime, to serve

•

Salt, to taste

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THE TRIALS AND TRIBULATIONS OF BRINGING FOOD TO PENN

BY BACH HOANG | DESIGN BY YUNE KIM

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X

M

y palms are sweaty, knees weak, arms are heavy. There is no Mom’s spaghetti.

No, I’m not trying to make it as a rapper in Detroit. But I have just reached the final destination of a 30-hour trip halfway across the world, and I’m about to face one of my greatest nemeses: the American customs officer.

“Are you bringing any fruits, vegetables, meat, or similar animal products?”

While I confidently answer “No, just some cooked fish,” I know damn well that in my suitcase are five packs of instant pho which have the tiniest of meatballs, and that if anyone catches on I’m going to be in a world of annoyance.

The suitcase opening, the interrogatory questions, the inevitable seizure of my food. All because I’m cheap and don’t feel like paying for a $15 bowl of pho at Cafe Saigon.

“Ok, you’re all good.”

I breathe a sigh of relief.

All international students know the pain of bringing their favorite snacks and ingredients back home to Penn.

I envy those of you who never have to face this multifaceted dilemma.

Because Philly just doesn’t always have exactly what we want, and our suitcases can only fit so many things. With that in mind, here are some useful things to consider when packing your bags the next time you’re heading back to campus.

THE SNACKS VS. INGREDIENTS DEBATE If you’re a freshman, snacks are a no-brainer, unless you're incredibly committed to cooking somehow. For everyone else though, it’s a little more complicated. If you don’t cook (silently judging), then obviously snacks are your best bet, but you could also think about your friends and bring them some to cook for you. When bringing along ingredients, remember that you might be going on a rather long flight, so if it’s anything perishable then you might want to pack it in a temperaturestable container.

ACCESSIBILITY We should all be thankful that Philly actually has quite a diverse food scene because it means there are loads of different grocery stores catering to a wide variety of cultures. Nevertheless, you won’t be able to find everything that you want. If it’s a specific local brand of something that you desire (I’m mourning the lap xuong from Vietnam I’ve been separated from), then chances are you won’t see it anywhere.

Something else to note is that snacks or drinks from multinationals tend to taste different from country to country. If you’re like me and only drink Vietnamese Milo, then you’ll also be out of luck, since most grocery stores here only stock one type of certain products (Malaysian Milo is too malty and watery, and I will die on this hill).

CUSTOMS ARE SNITCHES AND DESERVE STITCHES Yes. We know. No fruits. No vegetables. No meat or animal products. Cooked seafood is ok. I could go on forever about how much I despise the US for being so vigilant with their customs controls, but it is really quite important to not accidentally pack anything that’s prohibited. My family had our suitcase ripped open because we tried to smuggle mangoes in once.

Don’t repeat our mistake. But if you’re feeling especially daring, then I suggest doing small amounts, and conveniently forgetting to declare it in your customs form. If you’re caught in the act, just pretend to be a clueless Penn student who doesn’t know better. You didn’t hear it from me.

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FOODIE IN FRANCE:

A Culinary Reflection Before Study Abroad article by Andie Goldmacher illustrations by Eecho Yuan

January 13, 2024 is a very important day for me.

I am finally getting on a plane to take me on the most exciting academic and culinary journey of my life: study abroad in Paris, France. For my junior spring, I’ll be living in Paris, taking French classes at Columbia Reid Hall. I’ve dreamt of studying abroad in Paris since I started taking French as a mere six-year-old, so to say I’m excited would be an understatement.

But at the same time I’m feeling nostalgic, knowing I’m leaving behind the only home I’ve ever known. As a foodie, I think about this change in terms of what I eat.

I’ll miss my great-aunt’s matzo ball soup and chocolate cake, and my mom and grandma’s brisket – the special Jewish food you get on holidays that I won’t be there to celebrate. I’ll miss New York style pizza, not because it’s my favorite style of pizza by any means, but Matzo Ball Soup just because it feels like home. And New York bagels, which I also rarely eat, because my hot take is that

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bagels are not that good. But I’ll miss walking around the corner of my local bagel shop and getting a heavenly waft of everything bagel seasoning. I’ll miss walking into Greek Lady and seeing my face on the wall and having the employees know my name and that I want a side of honey mustard. I’ll miss sitting in the booths with my friends, chatting for hours over fountain drinks and curly fries. I’ll miss Zahav, Laser Wolf, and K’Far – my favorite spots from the restaurant group I used to work for.

And I’ll miss salad chains – Sweetgreen, JustSalad, and Chopt, truly my daily lunch.

But I’m not going to France to eat Sweetgreen every day. I’m going to immerse myself in the culture of the city. I cannot wait to grab my morning Chocolate Cake croissant or pain au chocolat on my way to class and to do my homework and people watch in cafés for hours, sipping on lusciously creamy cappuccinos.

I’m excited to go beyond Le Relais de l'Entrecôte (though I must try their steak au poivre) and embark on a quest to try as many local bistros throughout Paris as possible. Though I’ll only be in Paris for five months, I want to find somewhere I don’t feel like a tourist, where the waiters know my name and maybe even my order. I feel lucky to have found this at restaurants around Penn and at Philly, and the sense of warmth and hospitality in being a regular is a comfort I hope to find even being thousands of miles from home.

BUCKET LIST STEAK AU POIVRE

Le Relais de l'Entrecôte MACARONS

Ladurée & Pierre Hermé SOUFFLÉ

Le Récamier PASTRIES

Cédric Grolet GIANT CROISSANT

Philippe Conticini

Possibly most importantly, I have the world’s biggest sweet tooth, and I am ecstatic to explore the pâtisseries of Paris.

Ladurée and Pierre Hermé are great, but I want to push beyond the bounds of basic and explore everything from the corner bakeries that don’t even have a website and that you’d just have to stumble upon it yourself, to world-renowned shops that draw hours-long lines like Cédric Grolet, to restaurants dedicated to soufflé (hello Le Récamier), to gimmicky baked goods you just need to try to scratch that social media itch, such as a giant croissant from Philippe Conticini.

So yes, I’m nervous to live on my own – not an hour away from home but an 8-hour plane ride – but the fact that I am living my foodie lover’s dream makes the distance more than worthwhile.

"But I’m not going to France to eat Sweetgreen every day. I’m going to immerse myself in the culture of the city."

Kitchen Sink Vegetable Stew Yield: 4-6 Servings Prep Time: 30 Minutes Total Time: 40 Minutes

INGREDIENTS: • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

2 tablespoons oil 2 medium onions, diced 2 stalks celery, chopped 2 medium carrots, chopped 2 large potatoes, cubed 2 cups green beans 1 tablespoon (fresh) dill, stemmed and finely chopped 1 tablespoon (fresh) marjoram, stemmed and finely chopped 4 cups broth/water 2 large bell peppers, red or green 4 cups portobello mushrooms, chopped 3 tablespoons Dijon mustard 1 tablespoon maple syrup Cayenne pepper, paprika, salt, and pepper, to taste

DIRECTIONS: 1.

In a large saucepan, heat oil on medium heat

2.

Saute onions and celery until onions begin to soften and turn clear

3.

Add carrots, potatoes, green beans, dill, and marjoram to pot

4.

Cover vegetables with water/broth and bring to boil, stirring often

5.

Add mushrooms, bell pepper, mustard, maple syrup, and spices to pot

6.

Simmer until potatoes are tender

7.

Add salt and pepper to taste

8.

Enjoy!

Signing

off

To Penn Appétit, ​​ There’s always been a part of me that wanted to be a chef.

Exploring this interest at Penn, I worked in a pizzeria, bakery, and more, living out the shows I saw on T.V. as a kid. Although I cherished these experiences, something was missing. I found myself longing to cook together with my closest friends, try exciting dishes from different cultures, and share meals with my family back home. This proved to me that it wasn’t just about the food, but more about the feeling of community that food provides.

Penn Appétit was my way of connecting to this community.

Throughout my years with this organization, I knew that I wanted to make Penn Appétit not just about the food itself but also about the beautiful people behind it. With this vision in mind, I’ve had the privilege to lead over four issues and work on over seven, and I already see the tangible differences that we’ve all contributed.

I’ve left behind being a chef, but working on this magazine alongside my Penn Appétit family has taught me how much food – and the people involved in it – bring me so much joy. But, if I somehow end up opening a restaurant, I’ll be counting on you guys to leave me a good Yelp review.

Cheers,

Randy Bach

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Meet the Board

"What's a food that reminds you of home?" "bánh xèo" Randy

"蒜苗腊肉" (suànmiáo làròu) Alex S.

"chocolate chip banana bread muffins" Alex B.

"homemade wonton soup" Anna

"kimchi jjigae" Irene

"麻婆豆腐" (mápó dòufu) "kimchi jjigae"

Joyce

Kat

"红烧肉" (hóng shāo ròu) Shan Shan

"piparkūkas" Kristin

"sorakaya appachi" ashrit

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Fall

2023