elements / tea
“Better to be deprived of food for three days than of tea for one,” says an ancient Chinese proverb. I could not agree more.
T
he versatile tea leaf has fascinated me since childhood, when I tasted my first sips of tea from my parents’ cups. That first taste of traditional Indian chai converted me into a tea lover, and I joined the millions of people around the world who consume tea every day in its many preparations. What started as a humble bush in China—Camellia sinensis—is now cultivated across the world and has become a daily ritual in many cultures. I vividly remember the first trip I took to my family’s tea plantation in Darjeeling. I was mesmerized by the beauty of the gentle sloping hills dotted which short, stubby, green bushes. Hundreds of women dressed in colorful saris were snipping away at the fragrant leaves and shoveling them into baskets behind their backs. They left the leaves out in the sun to dry, after which the withered leaves were rolled, either by hand or by machine. Next, the leaves were fermented and dried again before being tasted and packaged. The process of making tea, though, is not as simple as I saw it then. Every country grows its own type of tea leaf and employs a slightly different fermentation process, giving rise to a plethora of tea varieties like Darjeeling, Assam, Oolong, green, white, Matcha, and even blends like Earl Grey and English Breakfast. No two cultures drink tea in the same manner. The Chinese—who discovered tea—drink oolong and black teas, lightly brewed and often scented with fragrances like jasmine, to create a delicate, refreshing brew. The Japanese on the 8 / fall 2010 / penn appétit
other hand, participate in elaborate tea ceremonies in which powdered Matcha green tea is whipped with water and sugar; it is a ritualistic affair involving attention to etiquette and detail. In, India—the largest producer of tea—leaves are brewed with milk, sugar and spices to make chai. I grew up slurping this delightful concoction in bustling tea stalls while nibbling on various spicy snacks like samosas. In India, tea is served at all times of the day and it is considered a sign of respect to welcome guests with tea. Though tea originated in Asia, Europeans have whole-heartedly embraced the beverage. In fact, Ireland is the largest per-capita consumer of tea. The French are famous for their herbal, fruity blends, commonly served with pastries in ornate, Parisian tea cafés. It is the British, however, who are credited with introducing tea to the Western world by creating a blend of Assamese and Darjeeling leaves called English Breakfast tea. England’s obsession with tea went on to produce an iconic ritual in British culture—afternoon tea. Invented in the 1700s as a quick solution to satisfying hunger before dinner, high tea is now an elegant and formal affair to be enjoyed with family, friends, and even business associates. The Ritz-Carlton Hotel in London serves the world’s most famous afternoon tea. Its luxurious, elegant tearoom is bustling with celebrities and the elite of London society. The Ritz serves tea from silver pots into bone china cups, adding to the splendor of the ritual. Central to the tea service are the traditional culinary accompaniments, arranged on a three-
tier silver stand. On the bottom plate are finger sandwiches, elegantly cut into long rectangles. Traditional fillings include cucumber with cream cheese or smoked salmon. The second tier is adorned with fluffy scones and savory crumpets. Quite unlike their dense American counterparts, these scones are soft and delicate, the perfect balance of sweet, buttery and flaky. They are best served with clotted Cornish cream and fresh preserves. The crumpets—savory, yeasted pancakes—are eaten with lemon curd and honey. Finally, the top tier displays a selection of superb pastries, such as petit fours and tartlets. In Philadelphia, the Mary Cassatt tearoom and garden in the Rittenhouse Hotel is an excellent choice for afternoon tea. Declared one of the most beautiful tearooms in America, it is tucked behind the hotel lobby, with French windows overlooking a beautiful courtyard. The Rittenhouse Hotel has put its own spin on high tea, offering specialty blends like Pear Caramel and Green Tropical along with more traditional varieties. Even the accompaniments demonstrate interesting twists, with items such as cranberry scones and miniature cheesecakes. The signature tea here is served with a glass of Crémant and champagne biscuits—a combination not to be missed. Since its discovery, tea has evolved from a simple leaf into a religious, social, and anthropological commodity. It is more than just a drink enjoyed by billions every day; no other beverage is as inseparable from numerous cultures’ identities as is tea.