An Unfashionable Dilemma By Cristina Diaz
Illustration by Stella Richman
Cruelty-free leather at the expense of ecology
A
s the debate surrounding climate change and pollution intensifies, the fashion industry has come under increased scrutiny as one of the business sectors with the largest environmental impact. Consumers are not only avoiding the disposable items associated with fast fashion, but they are also considering the materials used in the clothing. Many say that swapping leather for its synthetic counterpart is the ethical solution to animal abuse, but what are the environmental impacts of both? Animal leather is the most important co-product of meat and is by association also responsible for water waste and extensive CO2 emissions. However, the leather industry argues that since it is a natural material, it is less of a pollutant and can be recycled or reused to make other retail items, while fake leather is not easily recyclable. “If you are buying faux leather then you need to consider you are buy-
70
ing plastic,” says Amy Powney, creative director of sustainable luxury label Mother of Pearl. Her personal preference is another alternative to standard leather which is to use best practice leather that is long-lasting and that has been made using natural tanning agents. A 2017 report from the Copenhagen Fashion Summit found that “synthetic leather is less harmful to the planet than cow leather.” Fake leather or pleather is made primarily of polyester, a byproduct of petroleum, and is usually finished with a wax coating to look more convincingly like leather. Pleather production also makes use of acrylic fibers which are hazardous to human health. Vegan leather is also problematic because it uses products such as plastic polymers polyurethane (PU) and polyvinyl chloride (PVC) to produce faux leather fabrics. Both pose serious environmental threats because they’re not biodegradable. Fake leather is less durable than leather and