PDNedu Vol. 16, No. 2, Fall 2017

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Vol. 16 Issue 02 FALL 2017

Brought to you by PDN and Nikon

PHOTO © BRIAN FINKE

the portrait & fashion issue

pg.

38

Getting Personal Brian Finke on sustaining commissioned work with personal projects.

pg..

44

Going Indie Building a fashion and portrait portfolio with independent magazines.

pg.

48

Bold Beauty Celebrity portraitist Matthew Jordan Smith’s studio lighting tips.

THE MAGAZINE FOR EMERGING PHOTOGRAPHERS AND PHOTO EDUCATORS

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Contents

VOLUME 16 — ISSUE 02

Snapshots

revisits es Moore, ld blackle to the s Bazaar, es Moore: 962-2006.

10. Spotlight Shirley Yu, visual media director of MuslimGirl; Star Teacher Nina Berman.

12. Media Reports James Moore: Photographs 1962-2006; Annie Leibovitz: Portraits 2005-2016; Tara Bogart’s A Modern Hair Study.

14. Ask a Photo Director Jacqueline Bates, photo director for The California Sunday Magazine.

16. Is It Legal? 1DQF\ :RO΍ JLYHV D UXQGRZQ RQ insurance coverage for on-set injury or property damage.

pg.

18. Trending Now Bold and graphic beauty still lifes by Molly Cranna.

12

PHOTO © JAMES MOORE

20. Project X Claire Rosen’s guide for the modern photographer, Imaginarium.

Features 30. Storytellers

34. One to Watch

38. It’s a Living

Vintage vibes from fashion photographer and

Nathanael Turner heads out West to cultivate an

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recent Birmingham City University graduate Lucy

editorial and commercial career. BY MATTHEW

importance of balancing personal and assigned

Leach. BY BRIENNE WALSH

ISMAEL RUIZ

ZRUN BY HARRISON JACOBS

PHOTOS © (LEFT TO RIGHT): LUCY LEACH, NATHANAEL TURNER, BRIAN FINKE

30

34

38

44. Business Smarts Photographers and editors dish on pitching and shooting for indie publications. BY JESSICA GORDON

48. How To Nikon Ambassador Matthew Jordan Smith shares lighting tips from a recent celebrity shoot. BY AMY TOUCHETTE

52. Special Report FIT, SCAD and UAL prep students to hit the ground running. BY AMY TOUCHETTE

56. What Does It Cost? ...to study, live and work as a photographer in Los Angeles? COMPILED BY JACQUI PALUMBO ILLUSTRATED BY ANA CUNA

58. Product News The latest gear for students and educators. BY GREG SCOBLETE

A portrait from “The Monolith Myth” by Amina Maya, one of 10 photographers featured in our ̥ UVW 6LQJOHV JDOOHU\

62. PDNedu Asks Photographers share their go-to portrait lighting setups. COMPILED BY JACQUI PALUMBO

06. Editor’s Letter 07. Bulletin Board 64. Out of the Past During her tenure at Harper’s Bazaar, Louise Dahl-Wolfe shaped the modern fashion editorial. BY HILARY REID

22. SINGLES emerging artists. CURATED BY JACQUI PALUMBO

2

PDNEDU.COM • FALL SPRING 2017 2017

PHOTO © AMINA MAYA

Six pages of work from students and

World-renowned sports photographer. Nikon shooter for 37 years.

AF-S NIKKOR 24-70mm f2.8G ED

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Nikon is a registered trademark of Nikon Corporation. ©2017 Nikon Inc.

Photographers using other lenses haven’t even seen what real sharpness can be. There’s no comparison to the crispness you get with a NIKKOR lens and Nikon camera. —Dave Black

Field

Sports photographer ROBERT BECK tests the speedy Nikon D7500.

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ith more than 30 years of experience, freelance photographer Robert Beck has photographed more sporting events than most of us will attend in a lifetime. $OWKRXJK KH VWDUWHG RXW VKRRWLQJ VXUČ´ QJ %HFN EURDGHQHG KLV VFRSH RI FRYHUDJH DQG VKRW KLV Č´ UVW DVVLJQPHQWČƒWKH ΖURQPDQ 7ULDWKORQ LQ +DZDLLČƒIRU 6SRUWV ΖOOXVWUDWHG LQ ΖQ DGGLWLRQ WR SKRWRJUDSKLQJ the pinnacles of sporting events such as the Olympic Games, the Super Bowl and the World Series for 6Ζ, Beck continues to shoot 95 percent of his work covering a wide range of sports for the illustrious magazine. Beck, who usually shoots with the Nikon D5 and D4S, recently tested the new 20-megapixel, DX-format Nikon D7500 and was impressed with its performance. With a continuous shooting speed of up to 8fps, Beck was able to capture sequences of surfers, mountain bikers and other athletes with ease, thanks to its “surprisingly fast frame rate,â€? he notes. For Beck, he says, “the most important thing to me was that it was fast, it could follow focus and the lenses were sharp. For a photographer, that’s the bottom line.â€?

FOLLOW NIKON USA:

instagram.com/NikonUSA

But blazingly fast continuous shooting means nothing without a VROLG EXÎ? HU DQG WKH 1LNRQ ' FDQ FDSWXUH XS WR -3(* Č´ QH RU 5$: Č´ OHV LQ D VLQJOH EXUVW 7KH FDPHUD QHYHU VORZHG IRU %HFN HYHQ VKRRWLQJ 5$: ȊΖ ZRXOG UXQ RXW RI VXEMHFW EHIRUH WKHQ Č‹ KH VD\V explaining that the athlete would be out of the frame long before the FDPHUD UDQ RXW RI EXÎ? HU VSDFH $QG \RXȇOO QHYHU PLVV D IROORZ XS shot since the D7500 continues shooting while the previous set of RAW images are being written to the camera’s memory card. :KHWKHU SDLULQJ WKH ' ZLWK KLV $) 6 1Ζ..25 PP I ( )/ (' 95 IXOO IUDPH OHQV ZKLFK GHOLYHUV D ZKRSSLQJ PP IRFDO OHQJWK RQ WKH ' ȇV '; IRUPDW VHQVRU RU WKH $) 6 '; 1Ζ..25 PP I * (' 95 OHQV %HFNȇV LPDJHV ZHUH WDFN VKDUS perfectly freezing his mountain-bike-riding and wave-catching VXEMHFWV LQ VHULHV RI FRQWLQXRXV VKRRWLQJ VHTXHQFHV 7KH FRPSDFW VL]H DQG OLJKW ZHLJKW RI WKH ' HVSHFLDOO\ ZKHQ SDLUHG ZLWK WKH HTXDOO\ SRUWDEOH DQG KLJKO\ YHUVDWLOH $) 6 '; 1Ζ..25 PP I * (' 95 OHQV ZDV D ČŠELJ ERQXV Č‹ VD\V %HFN ČŠ(YHQ WKRXJK ZH GLGQȇW YHQWXUH WRR IDU RÎ? WKH EHDWHQ SDWK ZH GLG VRPH

facebook.com/nikon

twitter.com/NikonUSA

youtube.com/NikonUSA

PHOTOS Š ROBERT BECK

Learn more about NIKON’S exceptional gear. NIKONUSA.COM/PDNEDUFALL2017

hiking and biking, so being able to carry that small package is great,â€? he says, noting that it was the only lens he needed because it covers such a wide range of focal lengths. Beck also appreciated the D7500’s 3.2-inch tilting touchscreen monitor, especially when shooting some of his mountain-biking shots. “I love having the tilt LCD. If you’re putting the camera on the JURXQG LWȇV D ORW HDVLHU WR XVH WKDQ DWWDFKLQJ D ULJKW DQJOH YLHZČ´ QGHU or lying on the ground.â€? But excellent performance and bells and whistles mean nothing without delivering on image quality. Beck says the D7500 produced images that scored “across the board— great contrast, great color, great high ISO performance and sharpness.â€? With all of its attributes, as well as 4K UHD video, Beck was extremely pleased with the D7500: “It is an unbelievable camera and a great package for much less than half the price of a D5.â€? „

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EDITOR’S LETTER

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Training your lens on other people requires skill sets beyond the technical and the creative. How do you quickly establish rapport? How do you direct your subject, or for candid images, how do you observe? There’s an inherent intimacy

VOLUME 16, ISSUE 2

between photographer and subject, whether it’s palpable in

Fall 2017

the image or not. Cultivating those relationships is just as important as taking the frame. Becoming a great portraitist can open up many doors, from studio work, where every element is conceptualized, to documentary-style editorial work, where viewers get a little slice

SVP, PHOTO+ John McGeary

PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Daniel Ryan

VP & PUBLISHER, PHOTO+ Lauren Wendle

PRODUCTION MANAGER Gennie Kiuchi

DIRECTOR, CREATIVE SERVICES Moneer Masih-Tehrani

CIRCULATION Lori Golczewski

of someone else’s life. In this issue, you’ll see newcomer Lucy Leach’s fashion shoots and Nathanael Turner’s laid-back approach to editorial assignments; read how Brian Finke’s editorial, commercial, gallery and publishing endeavors are rooted in his personal projects; and learn how Nikon Ambassador and acclaimed celebrity portraitist Matthew Jordan Smith lights his beauty shoots. We also roll back the clock to the Harper’s Bazaar fashion renaissance of the mid-20th century, when photographers such as Louise Dahl-Wolfe and James Moore helped shape how fashion stories are visualized today.

MANAGING EDITOR Jacqui Palumbo

ONLINE PROJECT MANAGER Reiko Matsuo

ASSOCIATE EDITOR Taryn Swadba

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Mark Brown (646) 668-3702

COPY EDITOR Elissa Hunter

SALES DIRECTOR Mike Gangel (646) 668-3717

DESIGN Kelly Holodak, Nora Molina

SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Lori Reale (858) 204-8956 Jon McLoughlin (646) 668-3746

Be sure to check out our pick of photo programs that prep you to start your career right away in this issue’s Special Report, as well as which indie magazines you may be interested in pitching in Business Smarts. We’ve also added a new gallery of photography that will appear in each issue called Singles. It’s dedicated solely to the work of students and recent graduates. Submit your work for consideration at pdnedu@pdnonline.com. Keep up with us between issues at pdnedu.com and follow

CONTRIBUTORS Mindy Charski, Jessica Gordon, Hilary Reid, Harrison Jacobs, Theano Nikitas, Matthew Ismael Ruiz, Greg Scoblete, Amy Touchette, Brienne Walsh, Nancy Wolff

us at facebook.com/pdnedu.

— Jacqui Palumbo

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Dennis Tyhacz (646) 668-3779

PDNedu 100 Broadway, 14th floor New York, NY 10005

Our Mission

Brought to you by:

To bring the real-world inspiration, techniques and business expertise of established pros to aspiring photographers and their instructors in high school and college programs.

WANT MORE OF PDNEDU? Access archived issues through our digital edition, digitalmag.pdnedu.com 4XDOLȴ HG WHDFKHUV FDQ JHW IUHH FRSLHV RI PDNedu for their students. For further details and to sign up, visit our website, pdnedu.com

CEO AND PRESIDENT David Loechner CFO AND TREASURER Philip Evans

On the Cover An image from Brian Finke’s forthcoming monograph Hip Hop Honeys, the culmination of a multi-year project shot on the sets of hip-hop music YLGHRV :H SUR̥ OH )LQNHȤV career on page 38.

CHIEF INFORMATION OFFICER Bill Charles VICE PRESIDENT, GENERAL COUNSEL AND SECRETARY David Gosling SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, OPERATIONS Lori Jenks

SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, DIGITAL Teresa Reilly SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, MARKETING SERVICES Joanne Wheatley VICE PRESIDENT, HUMAN RESOURCES Eileen Deady VICE PRESIDENT, CORPORATE OPERATIONS Denise Bashem

BULLETIN BOARD

Letters

HOT EVENTS

PDNedu has been a great addition to support our curriculum at PHS.

The content matches

well the diverse types of photography our students make, from commercial portraiture WR GRFXPHQWDU\ WR ĚĽ QH DUW WR D EOHQG RI it all. When our box of PDNedu arrives in our classroom, the themes of the magazine often serendipitously match the content we discussed the day before, and the articles and images integrate directly into our class

PDNedu x Nikon at PhotoPlus Expo We’re once again teaming up with Nikon to host a panel discussion and networking event for students and educators at PhotoPlus Expo 2017 on October 26 at 2pm. “Creating a Sustainable Careerâ€? will feature Nikon Ambassadors Dixie Dixon, Deanne Fitzmaurice and Matthew Jordan Smith and will be moderated by PDN editor Holly Hughes. PhotoPlus Expo takes place at the Javits Center in New York City from 2FWREHU 7KH H[SR Čľ RRUČƒLQFOXGLQJ WKH 6KRZ )ORRU 7KHDWHU ZKHUH WKH SDQHO WDNHV SODFHČƒLV IUHH IRU VWXGHQWV RSVP: rsvp.pdnedu.com Register: photoplusexpo.com

discussions. Most often the magazines end up in the eager hands of our most serious students in our Documentary Honors and AP Photography classes. Thanks so much

The Sixth Annual Photoville

Paramus High School

One of our favorite fall events will return to Brooklyn Bridge Park this September. Photoville will take place among a sprawl of shipping containers along the waterfront from September 13-24. The wide array of container exhibitions and outdoor installations is always a unique experience, and the Smorgasburg and Brooklyn Brewery beer garden and tasty food trucks will keep you nourished as you make your way through the maze of photography from leading galleries, publishers, agencies and institutions. It’s free to the public, so check out their programming to see which seminars or nightly events you’d OLNH WR DWWHQGČƒPDNH VXUH WR DGG WKH DQQXDO PDN’s 30 panel to your list!

PDNedu, I just wanted to reach out and thank

Learn more: photoville.com

for being one of the rare direct supports of encouragement and resources to photo educators and their students. DENNIS DALELIO Lead Teacher of the Creative Arts & Photography Teacher

you for providing such a great publication for myself and my students. Our students have such a variety of interests and your magazine covers so many different aspects of photography. The Spring ‘17 content ranged from 7KH 0RRQ to VR trends. Our business class discusses the legal issues DQG WKH SRUWIROLR FODVV WDONV DERXW VHOI [assigned] projects and how to “stand RXWȧ WR ODQG \RXU ĚĽ UVW IHZ DVVLJQPHQWV I have often shared with my students the photographers and equipment mentioned WKURXJKRXW WKH PDJD]LQH <RX DUH D URFN solid source of real information. PAUL SINKLER Faculty–Program Coordinator Photography and Digital Imaging Minneapolis Community and Technical College

Tell us why you love PDNedu. D li att pdnedu@pdnonline.com d d @ d li Drop us a line

Nikon News Nikon’s Scholarship Program and #Nikon100 List Nikon USA has announced the launch of a new program for upand-coming creative minds, in honor of their 100-year anniversary. 7KH FRPSDQ\ ZLOO RÎ? HU D FRPELQHG WKURXJK WKH 1LNRQ Storytellers Scholarship to U.S. and Canadian students pursuing SKRWRJUDSK\ Č´ OP MRXUQDOLVP YLVXDO DQG Č´ QH DUW GHJUHHV SURYLGLQJ WHQ VWXGHQWV HDFK ZLWK .HHS DQ H\H RQ nikonusa.com and WKHLU VRFLDO PHGLD SDJHVČƒWKH\ȇOO EH DQQRXQFLQJ WKH FULWHULD WKLV IDOO DQG will award the selected students prior to the 2018-2019 school year. At the same time, Nikon’s team will select up-and-coming photographers on Instagram to feature as part of their #Nikon100 list. The 100-day campaign will highlight one new photographer to follow each day and will feature their photos on the NikonUSA Instagram channel.

@NikonUSA

@NikonUSA

/NikonUSA

NikonUSASnap

FALL 2017 • PDNEDU.COM

7

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Join us for this FREE event for students at PhotoPlus Expo 2017. WHEN:

Creating a Sustainable Career What are some steps you can take early on to make your photography career not only successful, but enduring? Learn how to build your future in photography with longevity in mind from commercial fashion photographer Dixie Dixon, worldrenowned celebrity portraitist Matthew Jordan Smith and Pulitzer Prize-winning photojournalist Deanne Fitzmaurice. The panel, moderated by PDN editor Holly Hughes, will be followed by a reception with the opportunity to speak with the photographers. Refreshments will be served.

Nikon Ambassador Matthew Jordan Smith

THURSDAY OCTOBER 26 2:00–3:30 PM

ONE LUCKY ATTENDEE WILL WIN A NIKKOR LENS AT THE EVENT!

WHERE: PHOTOPLUS EXPO 2017 Adobe Show Floor Theater Javits Center, New York City

HOW: PHOTOPLUS EXPO IS FREE FOR STUDENTS TO ATTEND. SIGN UP FOR THE PANEL IN TWO STEPS: 1 REGISTER at PHOTOPLUSEXPO.COM for an Expo Pass* 2 RSVP at RSVP.PDNEDU.COM *Proof of school enrollment required.

Nikon Ambassador Deanne Fitzmaurice

Nikon Ambassador Dixie Dixon

Spotlight

Media Reports

Ask a Photo Director

Is It Legal?

Trending Now

Project X

snapshots

A Modern Hair Study

PHOTO © TARA BOGART

In this monograph from Kehrer Verlag, photographer Tara Bogart revisted an image from 1865 of the back of a woman to create a typography of contemporary women’s hairstyles. Through the work, %RJDUW TXHVWLRQV KRZ IHPLQLQLW\ LV GHȴ QHG See more on page 12.

SNAPSHOTS: Spotlight

When Getty Images announced a partnership with MuslimGirl to diversify images of Muslim ZRPHQ LQ PHGLD WKH QHZV VSUHDG OLNH ZLOGȴ UH ΖWȇV RQH RI *HWW\ȇV UHFHQW SDUWQHUVKLSV WKDW DLP WR make stock photography more inclusive. Leading the visuals of MuslimGirl is Shirley Yu, a former PDNedu Student Photo Contest honoree. We asked Yu about her role in the MuslimGirl initiative. PDNedu: How did you get involved with the

those who understand the diverse experiences of

MuslimGirl project?

Muslim women. Sometimes, as a woman of color in America, I’ve felt there exists systemic barriers

Shirley Yu: I met Amani Al-Khatahtbeh while

WR HQWU\ LQ P\ ȴ HOG ΖW JLYHV PH KRSH WR VHH RXU

photo editing for Rutger’s college newspaper, The

industry shifting to become more inclusive—I like

Daily Targum. She was also interning at VICE while

being a part of that.

building up MuslimGirl. I knew that we were cut from the same cloth. I admired her for pursuing her dreams while doing important work for her

PDNedu: How did the partnership with Getty come about?

COURTESY OF NINA BERMAN

Shirley Yu, Visual Media Director of MuslimGirl

Star Teacher: Nina Berman When students critique recent news pictures and photo essays in Nina Berman’s classes at

FRPPXQLW\ $IWHU RXU Č´ UVW MREV LQ WKH LQGXVWU\ Amani made the leap to grow MuslimGirl from a

SY: During a speaking engagement, Amani

the Columbia University Graduate School of

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asked everyone to search “Muslim women� in

Journalism, they consider composition, light,

joined the team.

Google Images. The images shared common

shadow and color. And then they keep going.

traits: anonymous, homogenous, miserable,

The associate professor of journalism says

PDNedu: How large is the core team, and, as

foreign. Because of this, the media industry can

she wants her students to also delve into the

the visual media director, what is your role?

complain that they don’t have images to choose

wider context and cultural frame of the images.

from. Amani reached out to Getty with the idea

They discuss whether the photos reinforce or

SY: MuslimGirl has a small team consisting of

to change the mainstream image of the Muslim

subvert stereotypes, for instance, and how

young, active and mainly Muslim women of

woman. When I got the call, I agreed that there

shooters could have approached the stories

color, spread across the country. I am tasked

was going to be no better partner for the scope

GLÎ? HUHQWO\

with special projects that involve original content,

of this initiative.

Her students, who use photography as a dominant or secondary medium for their

which includes liaising with our collaborative content

partners

(including

Getty,

media

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PDNedu: What kind of response have you seen

journalism, also read texts by anthropologists,

so far?

photo historians and visual critics. Berman combines the readings and critiques

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SY: When we released our image gallery, we

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for Muslim women.

saw it go viral. We’ve seen plenty of people

teach her students the importance of context

tweeting and sharing on social media how

and representation in visual journalism and

PDNedu: What type of photographers are you

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narrative storytelling, she says.

seeking out to shoot for Muslim Girl?

Muslim women, how much it means to them

“For example, if the public only sees drug

to see better representation. Beyond that, a

addicts depicted in one way—in terms of

SY: MuslimGirl is rooted in lifestyle, portrait and

lot of publications have been using our images.

depravity—then

fashion. We look for emerging photographers

Hopefully, it’ll help change the narrative!

to ask if there is another story of addiction

with new and intriguing perspectives, especially

- Interview by Jacqui Palumbo

students

are

encouraged

that hasn’t been told, so as not to perpetuate

PHOTO Š MUSLIMGIRL/GETTY IMAGES

narrow mindsets,â€? she says. Berman, who directs the school’s photo SURJUDP VWLOO VSHQGV WLPH LQ WKH Č´ HOG herself. She covers issues of violence and WKHLU DIWHUPDWK UDQJLQJ IURP KDUP LQČľ LFWHG on vulnerable women to destruction of communities by corporations engaged in fossil fuel production. Working outside the classroom is important to her, and doing so helps her stay connected to the creative challenges of those she teaches. “When your student comes in completely freaked out about something, you feel it,â€? she says, “and you remember that feeling because you just had it yesterday.â€? –Mindy Charski

SNAPSHOTS: Media Reports

Our Picks for Your Shelf by JACQUI PALUMBO

PHOTOS Š JAMES MOORE

James Moore: Photographs 1962-2006 Edited by Nicolas Moore Damiani | Hardcover, 280 pages, $75 Published April 2017 In the heyday of the Harper’s Bazaar fashion photography renaissance, led by legendary editor Carmel Snow, photographers such as Louise Dahl:ROIH DQG 5LFKDUG $YHGRQ SURGXFHG ZRUN WKDW GHȴ QHG contemporary editorials. But at the end of Avedon’s tenure at the magazine followed James Moore, a second-generation Chinese American photographer from Brooklyn. Moore, who studied under iconic Harper’s art director Alexey Brodovitch, brought

12

PDNEDU.COM • FALL 2017

the 1960s-era mod and bohemian looks to its pages in bold, cinematic style and, despite his long career in photography and television commercials, has lost some of his recognition over the years. Damiani’s retrospective on Moore spans more than 50 years, with sensual fashion stories from France, the Philippines, Egypt and Brazil; noir SRUWUDLWV RI Č´ OP LFRQV &DU\ *UDQW and Stanley Kubrick; a collaboration with artist Andy Warhol; and endless international magazine covers. In a forward by Martin Harrison, he writes: “But if the romance of the 1960s, when ‘we lived DQG EUHDWKHG SKRWRJUDSK\ ȇ SURYHG Čľ HHWLQJ -DPHV Moore crystallized the moment and the dream with great ĂŠlan.â€?

Annie Leibovitz: Portraits 20052016 By Annie Leibovitz Phaidon Press +DUGEDFN SDJHV Available October 2017

PHOTOS Š ANNIE LEIBOVITZ

:H FRXOG XVH WKLV VSDFH WR OLVW DOO RI WKH FHOHEULWLHV SROLWLFLDQV DQG SXEOLF Č´ JXUHV that appear in the latest monograph by famed portraitist and longtime Vanity

Fair photographer Annie Leibovitz, but we wouldn’t have room for anything else. :H FDQ JLYH \RX D WDVWH KRZHYHU ΖQ Portraits 2005-2016, you’ll see the 2EDPDV SUH SUHVLGHQF\ WKH 4XHHQ RI (QJODQG DQG KHU FRUJLV DUWLVW -HÎ? .RRQV H[HUFLVLQJ LQ WKH EXÎ? SURPLQHQW \HW SULYDWH SKRWRJUDSKHU &LQG\ 6KHUPDQ WKH Č´ QDO FROOHFWLRQ RI GHVLJQHU $OH[DQGHU 0F4XHHQ WKH HQWLUH *U\É? QGRU TXLGGLWFK WHDP DQG - . 5RZOLQJ 0LOH\ &\UXVȇ FRQWURYHUVLDO EDFN EDULQJ VKRRW D VKLUWOHVV $GDP 'ULYHU KROGLQJ DQ DOVR VKLUWOHVV ΖULVK UDP WKH .DUGDVKLDQ :HVWV ZLWK EDE\ 1RUWKČƒWKH OLVW JRHV RQ Portraits is a follow-up to A Photographer’s Life, 1990-2005, and Photographs, 1970-1990 PDNLQJ LW WKH WKLUG LQVWDOOPHQW VSDQQLQJ D segment of her career. In an afterword, Leibovitz writes about her SURFHVV IRU VHOHFWLQJ ZRUN DQG UHČľ HFWV RQ WKH W\SH RI SKRWRJUDSKHU VKH LV 7KRXJK VKH KDV WDNHQ PDQ\ SRUWUDLWV ZLWKLQ WKH ZDOOV RI D FORVHG VHW VKH SUHIHUV D VSDFH UHČľ HFWLYH RI KHU VXEMHFW ČŠ/RFDWLRQ LV DQ LQWHJUDO SDUW RI WKH SLFWXUH 1RW DV EDFNJURXQG RU GÂŤFRU Č‹ VKH ZULWHV ČŠ7KH KLVWRU\ RI D SODFH LWV VRXQGV DQG VPHOOV LQČľ XHQFHV D SLFWXUH LQ ZD\V WKDW DUH impossible to achieve in a studio.â€?

A Modern Hair Study By Tara Bogart Kehrer Verlag | Cloth hardcover 120 pages, $40 Available September 2017 Tara Bogart’s series “A Modern Hair Studyâ€? has exhibited in solo and JURXS VKRZV IRU Č´ YH \HDUV DQG ZLOO Č´ QDOO\ EH DYDLODEOH LQ ERRN IRUP WKLV September, following a successful .LFNVWDUWHU FDPSDLJQ DQG D partnership with German publisher Kehrer Verlag. Bogart’s study of women’s hair ZDV VSDUNHG DIWHU D WULS WR WKH SKRWR DUFKLYHV RI WKH %LEOLRWKÂŞTXH nationale de France in Paris. An 1865 photograph by Nadar, “Marie /DXUHQWČ‹ ZKLFK GHSLFWV WKH EDFN RI D ZRPDQȇV KHDG VWD\HG ZLWK KHU ORQJ DIWHU KHU YLVLW ȊΖ FRXOGQȇW VWRS WKLQNLQJ DERXW ZKDW WKDW VDPH LPDJH ZRXOG ORRN OLNH WRGD\ Č‹ VKH ZULWHV LQ DQ DIWHUZRUG The 52 portraits of A Modern Hair Study form a typology of women’s KDLU WRGD\ DQG FDOOV LQWR TXHVWLRQ KRZ IHPLQLQLW\ LV GHČ´ QHG 7KH ZRUN thoughtfully and subtly disrupts stereotypes of how a woman should present herself. And, despite no eye contact with her subjects, there is an inherent intimacy in each oval frame. Though Bogart is not of the same generation as the women in her VHULHV VKH UHČľ HFWV RQ WKH VLPLODULWLHV WKH\ VKDUH ČŠ:KLOH FHUWDLQ LGHDOV DUH RIWHQ UHOHYDQW WR GLÎ? HUHQW JHQHUDWLRQV WKH ZD\V LQ ZKLFK ZRPHQ DGRUQ and modify themselves often indicate the struggles of a young adult with their own ideology and individuality,â€? she writes. “After photographing these women, I can imagine these struggles are timeless.â€? 3+2726 k 7$5$ %2*$57

FALL Č? 3'1('8 &20

13

SNAPSHOTS: A sk a Photo Direc tor

Image-Driven: Jacqueline Bates

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4 $ ZLWK WKH SKRWR GLUHFWRU RI The California Sunday Magazine. Interview by JACQUI PALUMBO 6LQFH LWV ODXQFK The California Sunday Magazine KDV KDG D IRFXV RQ EHDXWLIXO SKRWRVČƒDQG ORWV RI WKHP 7KH PDJD]LQH ZDV DZDUGHG WKH 1DWLRQDO 0DJD]LQH $ZDUG IRU 3KRWRJUDSK\ IRU WKH VHFRQG \HDU LQ DQG LW ZDV DOVR D Č´ QDOLVW IRU 0DJD]LQH RI WKH <HDU $W WKH KHOP RI LWV VPDOO SKRWR GHSDUWPHQW LV -DFTXHOLQH %DWHV +HUH VKH GLVFXVVHV WKH W\SH RI SKRWRJUDSK\ WKH\ VHHN RXW DQG KRZ WR JHW \RXU RZQ ZRUN LQ LWV SDJHV

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form stories or shorts?

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you’ve worked on?

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OUT SATURDAY NIGHT

3+2726 k (//( 3‹5(= / $1' 0Ζ&+$(/ 6&+0(//Ζ1* 5 )25 THE CALIFORNIA SUNDAY MAGAZINE

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who is just starting out, what are some things you tell him or her?

46

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Photographs by Elle PĂŠrez and Michael Schmelling From cowboy bars and opera houses to dance clubs and warehouse parties, Saturday night gets us out and gets us together. The headliner runs through sound check. The soprano warms her voice. The Elvis impersonator psyches himself up in the mirror. The opener goes on. The bouncer settles in. The bartenders make small talk. The place begins to ďŹ ll.

Pitch your ideas or unpublished projects: art@californiasunday.com

1:02 A.M.

El Palacio Night Club, Merced

12:21 A.M.

Bissap Baobab, San Francisco

37

14 3'1('8 &20 Č? FALL

THIS PAGE: This October issue photo essay, “Saturday Night Out,â€? paired photos from Elle PĂŠrez and Michael Schmelling.

Repeat Winner of the TIPA Award

‘Best Photo Lab Worldwide’ Awarded by the Editors of 28 Leading Photography Magazines

your photo in a gallery frame

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Stephanie Kloss, from LUMAS.COM

from

Transform your sublime memories into works of art. With gallery-quality prints from WhiteWall. Your photographs in large-format prints, mounted under acrylic, or framed. Crafted by experts who have earned over 100 industry & Editor’s Choice awards. Upload and design custom photo art – even from your smartphone.

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SNAPSHOTS: Is It Legal?

Is It Legal? Q:

What happens if there is damage to property on a set of a photo shoot or someone is injured? Who is liable, and do I need insurance to protect myself? If you own the

If you are renting a studio or

property (I.e. your

other location, the owner will most

studio) you may

likely ask you to sign an agreement

be responsible for

that will make you liable for any

any

not

damage or injury sustained during

purposely caused by a third party,

the shoot, and to indemnify the

such as someone getting burned

owner if he or she is also named

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in any lawsuit, meaning you will

this person seeks compensation

be fully responsible for all costs,

for medical costs and time lost

including attorney’s fees. You may

from work, as well as loss of

also be asked to present proof of

future income (if applicable), you

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could be named in a legal action.

insurance.

Similarly, if property—such as

If someone employed by you or

an expensive prop—is damaged

the client is injured, such as your

while in your care, you may be

photo assistant or their production

responsible.

manager, the employer’s worker’s

A:

injuries

Whether you are responsible

compensation insurance would

“

If someone employed by you or the client is injured, such as your photo assistant or their production manager, the employer’s worker’s compensation insurance would cover that injury.”

for property damage or bodily

cover

injury on a photo shoot can

on

depend on a number of factors;

requirements,

fortunately there is insurance that

this policy to cover employees,

covers these situations.

contractors,

Depending

and

you

contract

may

need

freelancers

or

yourself. Independent contractors

professional studio, you should

qualify for this, even if he or she

have

works for only one day.

coverage

under

general

your

When searching for the right

liability of

insurance policy, it is recommended

insurance policy provides coverage

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to a business for bodily injury,

who

personal

photography or video industry.

insurance

PDNEDU.COM • FALL 2017

injury. laws

If the shoot is held in your

commercial

16

that

state

(CGL).

injury

This

and

type

property

knows

you

are

the

damage caused by the business’

If

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photography trade association,

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you

might

a

professional

member

receive

of

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1DQF\ ( :RO΍ is a partner at Cowan, DeBaets, Abrahams & Sheppard, LLP. Her practice focuses on intellectual property and digital media law. Visit: cdas.com

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Fashion & Portraiture / Documentary / Still Life / Travel & Landscape / Fine Art & Personal Work / Multimedia & Video/ High School (Any Subject)

SPONSORED BY:

Enter by Nov 21, 2017 WINNERS and HONORABLE MENTIONS will be featured in the Spring 2018 issue of PDNedu and in an online gallery, promoted to PDN’s network of more than 475,000 followers. WINNERS and HONORABLE MENTIONS will receive a one-year PHOTO+ Basic Membership.

ENTRY FEES $20 per entry* (single/series) *ONLY students currently enrolled in college, high school or D FHUWLȴ FDWH SURJUDP DUH HOLJLEOH Educators can submit on behalf RI D FODVV

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GOT A LEGAL QUESTION? pdnedu@pdnonline.com

PHOTO © JUSTINE CHEN

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PHOTOS © MOLLY CRANNA

SNAPSHOTS: Trending Now

Graphic Goods

THIS PAGE: Cranna’s clean and meticulous styling and lighting, seen here with a tube of lipstick (left) and eyelash curler (right).

Molly Cranna powers still lifes with color and shadows. by MINDY CHARSKI Early in her career, photographer Molly Cranna

a realm that I had never seen with cosmetics,”

was shooting creepy teeth-related objects she

she says. “And I thought it just made the pink [of

had bought from eBay when magic happened.

the lipstick] really beautiful.”

they’re looking at a shooting star. Professional

strobes

help

Cranna

get

her shadows while on assignment, but she

The images came to life when the Los

7KH SLFWXUH H[HPSOLȴ HV KHU XVH RI FRORU

sometimes turns to speedlights for personal

Angeles-based photographer injected some

theory as a way to “ground” images that

work. “I’m a proponent of those as the hardest

hard light, a big dose of color and a little humor.

predominantly feature pastels.

shadow you can get,” she says. “A lot of students

“It was unexpected to have a bunch of dentures

Hard shadows, meanwhile, not only help

already own those, so they’re great to play

[against] pastel pink with this hard shadow and

modernize product shots, but also add a

around with.” Sometimes she brings in a second

to be so blasé about something so potentially

graphic component. “You can bring in a second

OLJKW IRU ȴ OO LI WKH VKDGRZV DUH WRR GDUN

disgusting,” she says.

character with the shadows,” she says. “They

Over time she has continued to explore the

become another element in the photo.”

Cranna’s formal training include a bachelor’s GHJUHH LQ ȴ OP SURGXFWLRQ IURP WKH 86& 6FKRRO

SRZHU RI FRORU EORFNLQJ DQG GHȴ QHG VKDGRZV

Cranna, who also shoots portraits, likes to

of Cinematic Arts in Los Angeles and a summer

She often uses these techniques in product

SHUVRQLI\ SURGXFWV ȊΖW KHOSV PH ȴ JXUH RXW

program in fashion photography at the School

work for editorial and commercial clients like

how to position them so they have the most

of Visual Arts in New York City. She keeps her

Sephora, Target, Tory Burch and WIRED.

energy,” she says. “I never place anything in the

visual style fresh by paying attention to color

frame and just think, ‘Now I’m shooting a pair

trends in fashion and experimenting with

of glasses.’ I try to [ask]: ‘What are they doing?’”

swatches in her own work. She stays inspired

And it’s a style she still experiments with in her unassigned work. In a personal image, Cranna paired a tube of pink lipstick with green

In a shot of an eyelash curler, for instance,

with color in another way, too: “I can’t walk

and blue squares, each casting its own long

she imagined the tool gripping an eyelash like

down the street without scrutinizing everything

shadow against a light taupe background. “I felt

two people holding hands. Likewise, if objects

I see,” Cranna says. “It drives me kind of crazy,

[the shot] was interesting and took it outside of

are all facing the same way, she might imagine

but it’s all good. I like it.” EDU

18 3'1('8 &20 ȏ FALL 2017

SNAPSHOTS: Project X

Making a Guide for the Modern Photographer

Consider Claire Rosen’s Imaginarium for your new creative regimen.

by JACQUI PALUMBO The traditional photography guidebook may be

Imaginarium. Making original work is a challenge

Rosen also covers professional aspects such

a relic of the past: A quick YouTube search can

when there’s a constant stream of images in our

as production and the viewer experience, down

pull up nearly any camera function or technique

lives, she writes.

to personal habits like time management and

you need to learn. But, as photographer Claire

“Our culture has shifted in such a way that it’s

self-care—including keeping a check on your

Rosen notes, technical skill does not equal

easier to be a consumer of content rather than

mental and physical health, something Rosen

mastery of the medium. Storytelling, originality

having individual experiences,� Rosen explains

herself has dealt with. Imaginarium is not

and creativity are what elevate an image—and

to PDNedu. Taking inspiration from someone

meant to be a “how-to� on Rosen’s approach

they are far harder to cultivate.

else’s Instagram feed rather than your own

to photography, but instead guides readers to

Rosen’s own work takes cues from many

experiences, for example, leads to homogenous

think about their own work “holistically� and to

visual traditions, including fantasy, allegory,

imagery. And further, when you do develop a

make creating a daily habit.

tableau,

Victorian-era

successful project that is deeply you, it can be

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dress, Baroque painting and children’s books.

hard to avoid replicating yourself when making

sustainable� practice takes time, and Rosen

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new work. To avoid these pitfalls, she includes

admittedly has to remember to take her own

and are a natural extension of her own identity.

writing exercises on memory, preferences and

advice. She has a section on learning to say

The development of true personal style is

mindfulness, as well as divergent thinking and

“no� to projects, something she is still working

dream documentation.

on. “I get very excited about projects, have

anthropomorphism,

RQH RI WKH Č´ UVW WRSLFV VKH WDFNOHV LQ KHU ERRN

20

PDNEDU.COM • FALL 2017

a lot of interests and ideas and want to be

is keeping a rubber mouse mask rolled up in

tying class, reading up on a piece of history

accommodating to everyone [and], as a result,

her purse at all times. When she encounters

or speaking with a total stranger—“anything

I still wind up taking on too much.�

an interesting setting, she takes a self-portrait

that adds an unexpected joy or nourishment

And though it takes time to adopt some

as The Traveling Mouse and uploads it to

to your soul.�

of her suggestions, such as building up your

Instagram. This small creative exercise has

Most importantly, always work in a way

community, achieving long-term goals and

become a full project in its own right, with The

that feels true to you, as it’s your practice that

coming into your own stylistically, there’s plenty

Traveling Mouse making an appearance in

you’re building. That includes what you take

to start on today.

nearly every locale she travels to.

away from her book. In the intro, Rosen writes:

“Try and think up one fun small side project

But creativity doesn’t only have to come

“Some advice will resonate and some will not.

that is relevant to you and your lifestyle, one you

from experiences with your camera. Rosen

Embrace what works for you and leave the

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suggests breaking from your routine once

rest.� That’s a good lesson for beyond your

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a week, whether that means taking a knot-

artistic practice, too. EDU

THIS SPREAD: Imaginarium’s cover (opposite) and spreads that include an on-set budget breakdown and the anatomy of an image (this page). Rosen also includes exercises for developing a personal voice and creative thinking, as well as honest advice on selfcare as an artist. 206

207

RESOURCES AND RESEARCH | Budget cost & sources breakdown

drop cloth: $30.49 fabric spray paint: $5.15 stencil: free Hand-painted using a cardboard stencil canvas drop cloth from Home Depot outdoor string lights: $24.99 From Target studio lighting: borrowed Sponsored by Dynalite hair & makeup: tfp Hair by Eric Dominguez Known since childhood Makeup by Gregg Hubbard Met on a previous job model: tfp Sietzka from Fenton Moon Agency Cold-emailed agency with mood board skirt: tfp Wardrobe and Styling by Arlinda McIntosh fo SoďŹ stafunk The Skirt Co. Met on a previous job

3+2726 k &/$Ζ5( 526(1

poodle: tfp Friend of a friend’s dog Connected after I posted on Facebook that I was dogs for the shoot wood planter: $38.98 paint: $5.15 Hand-painted a wooden planter from Home D location: free Workshop of a friend assistants: trade Interns & friends food: $75

)$// Č? 3'1('8 &20

21

of Singles: pdnedu@pdnonline.com

emerging artists. Be in our next collection

Six pages of work from students and

GALLERY

Lena Mirisola

catch h the light in their eyes.

Delia a and Julia to get close to

evening, g, Mirisola asked models

rooftop on a sunny winter

While shooting on a Boston

lenamirisolaphoto.com

@lenamirisola

FALL 2017 • PDNEDU.COM

23

@gabbyjones.jpeg

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Tyler Haughey

better than any other.”

playfulness of the postwar era

aesthetic, optimism and

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favorite of his: “It encompasses

Haughey says this motel is a

Wildwoods in New Jersey.

the small shore towns of the

“Ebb Tide,” which is set in

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photographed seven longtime

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FALL 2017 • PDNEDU.CO PDNEDU.COM

25

girls ought to look like.”

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the “performance” of “what

image, Magowan says, captures

growing self-awareness. This

increasingly at odds with a

its imaginative naiveté, becomes

moments where innocence, in

“Cygnets,” which examines

“A Sort of Poise” from the series

Isabel Magowan

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do when the war is over.

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letter detailing what she wants to

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former farmer who stayed in her

table belongs to a woman, Nelli, a

seperatist city of Donetsk. This

Eastern Ukraine around the

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of Fire,” about the people who live

From the series “Living on the Line

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2017. [Support: Alexia Foundation/

the Bronx, New York City, in May

Campus at Villa Barone Manor in

Theodore Roosevelt Educational

JROTC Military Ball for the

a performance at the 7th annual

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Sarah Blesener

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passage for many.

participating in FTX is a rite of

exercises once a semester, and

conduct practical training

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(FTX). Cadets from Fordham

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on Fort Dix Army Base to the site

a fellow cadet asks for directions

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FALL 2017 • PDNEDU.COM

27 2

aminamaya.com

@amina_maya

@sarahblesener

each subject.

emphasizing the individuality of

the single Black experience” by

“dismantle the stereotype of

call on social media, aiming to

Myth,” which began as an open

A portrait from “The Monolith

Amina Maya

sarah-blesener.com

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fashion

STORYTELLERS

V I N TA G E

LUCY LEACH BUILDS A SOPHISTICATED FASHION PORTFOLIO WITH A NOD TO THE PAST. by BRIENNE WALSH

V 30

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Tech Specs — Cameras: Nikon D810, D7100 Lenses: AF-S NIKKOR 35mm f/1.8G ED, AF-S NIKKOR AF-S 50mm f/1.4G Lighting: Lastolite 50cm Collapsible 5Ȟ HFWRU VXQ̼ UH ZKLWH DQG FP 'LIIXVHU

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“It’s really y important to keep busy busy.â€? y THIS PAGE: 7KLV LPDJH IURP WKH IDVKLRQ VWRU\ ČŚ%RWDQLFDO *UXQJHȧ IHDWXUHV PRGHO +HDWKHU LQ D YLQWDJH ĚŚ RUDO MXPSVXLW

clients. Along with shooting regularly, she

trends from the 1990s such as grunge, glitter

to focus on more studio shoots. She’d also like

is moving to Manchester at the end of the

and strips of colored hair. “Botanical Grunge,�

to experiment with shooting multiple models

summer, which she says is a much more

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to create images with more narrative. “I love

creative city than Birmingham. She also

vintage prints, could easily be a study for a

images with a story,� she says.

submitted the images from “SHUVIT� to a

future Gucci ad campaign. “Fever� utilizes the

Leach attributes her success thus far to hard

number of competitions and was selected

warm tones, bell bottoms and rompers of

work. “It sounds really simple, but you just have

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the 1970s with a touch of subversion—in one

to shoot as much as possible,� she says. She

competition in the Debut category.

image, rather than soften the stubble on the

is constantly searching for new collaborators.

“It’s really important to keep busy,� Leach

model’s bare legs, Leach chooses to highlight

She has also enjoyed portfolio reviews with

says. “You don’t want to fall out of the routine

their rough texture. Leach may be nostalgic,

Cheryl Newman, the photography director of

of fashion photography because it’s easy to fall

but like many women of her generation, she’s

Telegraph PDJD]LQH DV ZHOO DV /RQGRQ EDVHG

behind. You need to keep on trends. Fashion is

also interested in changing traditional notions

professional fashion photographers.

constantly evolving.�

of feminine beauty.

And though Leach hasn’t yet begun to

The portfolio she has assembled thus far

In the coming months, Leach plans to keep

pitch editors, if her current portfolio is any

shows impressive range. Featured shoots

on building her portfolio. Because the work she

indication, her future looks as warm as the

include “Bare Grit & Beauty,� which utilizes

has now is mostly taken on location, she’d like

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32

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THIS PAGE: An editorial shot for Esquire Russia.

Room to Breathe Nathanael Turner on heading west to find his voice in editorial, commercial and personal work. by Matthew Ismael Ruiz

34

PDNEDU.COM • FALL 2017

L

ike

so

many

before

him,

when

Nathanael Turner graduated from the

learning experiences...how to interact with

honest—wrinkles,

people, [to] have a vision and execute it.�

rendered in crisp detail.

pores

and

blemishes

Rochester Institute of Technology in

The work he makes now, for clients such as

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New York, he packed his bags and headed

The New York Times Magazine, The FADER, and

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Microsoft, is often subtle and subdued, using

Spa, New York, the hyper-competitive market

the biggest of big ponds, he worked odd jobs

understated lighting for an aesthetic more

of New York had him feeling claustrophobic

and cold emailed photographers he admired,

contemplative

and over-stimulated.

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portraits seem to capture in-between moments

So he dipped. Turner packed his bags and

or no pay, heading back to his parents’ house

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followed the perpetual exodus of weathered

upstate to work for his dad and make extra

appear to wear their thoughts on their faces:

New Yorkers seeking warmer climes and

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in a portrait for Loud and Quiet, David Lynch

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judges silently, and in a shoot for Self-Titled,

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to come by in New York.

Ariel Pink gets lost in a smoking daydream.

it. LA’s commercial lifestyle market didn’t

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necessarily suit his aesthetic, but he found

that great,� Turner admits. “Those were great

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his

high-energy.

Turner’s

own

personal

projects—those

walks,

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than

THIS PAGE: (left to right) Chef and author Eddie Huang for The New York Times Magazine; The man behind Sriracha, David Tran, for Bloomberg Businessweek.

frequently along the

see how other photographers work, especially

boost when Stangel connected him with editors

LA River, evolved into

more experienced people. I’ve learned the

from

a project called “The

most from working on these larger commercial

though he had found his open space out in LA,

River.� “I need time

jobs that a younger photographer would have

the big-time editors were still in New York, so

to be bored,� Turner

no idea how to approach.�

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Bloomberg

Businessweek.

And

even

meetings. One of them landed him in The New

says. “To kind of open

And, while assisting, he minted new fans

up mentally, I kind of

of his work that would ultimately allow him

need that space.�

to strike out completely on his own. Veteran

“The one thing that really makes the biggest

Turner picked up

photographers Jake Stangel—whom he had

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assisting jobs as he pursued his own clients,

assisted back in New York—and Emiliano

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doing his best to balance the need to build

Granado connected him to editors at The

starting [out with] portfolio meetings with

his own name with the need to stay humble,

FADER and SPIN magazines. The music gigs

editors, it’s really important in the process.�

and learn. RIT may have given him a solid

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Turner says he’s been considering seeking

foundation, but he still had plenty to learn. “I

Vince Staples were generally more low-stakes:

representation as he considers adding more

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commercial clients, but he’s so far been

the years,� Turner says. “It’s really valuable to

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successful building out his network of contacts

York Times Magazine.

FALL 2017 • PDNEDU.COM

35

“ One thing that really makes the biggest difference is meeting people face to face,” Turner says. “Especially when you're first starting [out with] portfolio meetings with editors, it’s really important in the process.”

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Tech Specs —

Camera: Nikon D800 Lenses: AF-S NIKKOR 50mm f/1.4G, AF-S NIKKOR 85mm f/1.8G, additional NIKKOR lenses

Lighting: Nikon SB-800 AF Speedlight, Profoto B1, ARRI Tungsten

Drives: G-Drive, LaCie Rugged Digital Memory: SanDisk Editing Software: Adobe Photoshop Computer: Macbook + ASUS monitor

THIS SPREAD: Two portraits for Loud and Quiet, one featuring musician London O'Connor (opposite), the other of a friend of musician Michael Collins, photographed at a recording studio in LA (above).

FALL 2017 • PDNEDU.COM

37

IT'S A LIVING

Getting

P

Brian Finke on sustaining a career through personal work. by HARRISON JACOBS

38

PDNEDU.COM • FALL 2017

P

l

hotographer Brian Finke is never

Finke grew up in Houston, Texas, where

anything but himself. He has made a

football is exalted. Both of his sisters were

career out of channeling his unique

cheerleaders and Finke was his high school’s

empathetic vision while showcasing the vast

yearbook

diversity of American subcultures, from body

world. He decided to contact cheerleading

photographer—this

builders to drag queens, BBQ pitmasters

associations

to pot barons. And though he has a laundry

competitions. From there, he broadened the

list of A-list editorial clients like The New York

project to include football teams. At the same

Times Magazine, GQ and The New Yorker, it’s his

time, he eschewed his hard-nosed black-

personal projects that have fueled many of

and-white style and started experimenting

those assignments.

ZLWK FRORU DQG Čľ DVKHV WR RYHUSRZHU WKH VXQ

and

began

to

was

his

photograph

“Personal work has been important to

and “manipulate and direct the viewer's eye,�

me forever. It’s important to me now,� Finke

in the same way one might by burning and

tells PDNedu. “It's where all of the other work

dodging in a darkroom.

comes from.� At 41 years old, Finke has published four highly regarded monographs that span a

The “stylized documentary� style that Finke created was, in part, a response to what he was trying to capture.

range of subjects and took years of relentless

“When I was shooting cheerleading and

curiosity and shooting to produce. Each, in its

football, there was this explosion of energy —

own way, has formed the foundation on which

winning, losing, crying,� Finke says. “I wanted

he has built his career.

to exaggerate those moments and make them

For his book U.S. Marshals (2014), Finke

feel larger than life.�

followed the wild and dangerous work that

The project became a door opener for

federal marshals do on a daily basis, from

Finke. The New York Times Magazine director of

executing warrants to rounding up escaped

photography Kathy Ryan published an edit of

convicts. For Flight Attendants (2008) and

his work and hired him to shoot a number of

Construction (2012), he racked up thousands

stories on collegiate athletics. When Nike got

of air miles and spent countless hours on

wind of the images, the shoe company hired

construction sites to capture the inner lives of

)LQNH IRU KLV Č´ UVW PDMRU FDPSDLJQ D VKRRW RI

two critical, but often forgotten, industries. And

sprinters for Nike Running.

IRU KLV Č´ IWK ERRN Hip Hop Honeys, due out next spring, Finke shadowed music-video shoots to

The Personal Turns Commercial

capture video vixens behind the scenes.

A distinctive pattern has emerged in Finke’s

But it all began with a subject close to the

creative process: He gets intensely interested

Texas native’s heart: cheerleading and football.

in a subject, shoots it obsessively and then gets assignments based on that body of work.

PHOTOS Š BRIAN FINKE

Finding a Voice

In some cases, the editorial and the

At the School of Visual Arts in New York

commercial

City, the importance of personal work was

projects to new heights, as with his “Flight

projects

push

his

personal

impressed upon Finke by his professors, who

Attendants� project. His cheerleading work led

were working photographers. After college,

WR D VWHDG\ Čľ RZ RI FOLHQWV ZKR Čľ HZ KLP DURXQG

Finke received a grant to photograph child

the world to shoot. With so many hours

labor in India for the foundation Child Labor

spent on planes, Finke became fascinated by

and the Global Village, as well as a separate

the men and women who had become his

grant from the Alexia Foundation for World

everyday companions in the air.

Peace. He was able to use the funded work

To get the access he needed in a post-9/11

to get his foot in the door with editors, but

world, Finke began pitching travel- and fashion-

part of him knew he needed more time to

related stories to his magazine clients, and,

develop his vision. He had been shooting for

from there, he and his editors would pitch the

years in the grainy black-and-white style of

airlines. Despite some rejection, more than a

documentarians such as W. Eugene Smith

dozen airlines—including JetBlue and Delta—

and, while he was netting minor assignments,

said yes, giving him unprecedented access to

he had to set himself apart. His inspiration

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came from an unlikely source: the 2000 teen

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comedy Bring It On, in which rival cheerleaders

course, to seeing them on planes, but I wanted

VSDU RÎ? DW 1DWLRQDOV

to also take them out of that context and show

“I thought to myself: ‘This is amazing. I want to shoot this,’� recalls Finke, who said he had been looking for subject matter that spoke to him and a style that “felt more recognizably my own.�

THIS SPREAD: Images from Finke's cheerleading and football series, which was published as a monograph, 2-4-6-8: American Cheerleaders and Football Players.

FALL 2017 • PDNEDU.COM

39

PHOTO © BRIAN FINKE

“With flight attendants we’re used, of course, to seeing them on planes, but I wanted to also take them out of that context and show them in the everyday, at home, in the store, picking up their kid after school.”

THIS SPREAD: 7LJHU $LUZD\V ĚŚ LJKW DWWHQGDQWV DW ZRUN DQG $LU$VLD ĚŚ LJKW DWWHQGDQWV DIWHU KRXUV RSSRVLWH FKRZLQJ GRZQ DW )UDQNOLQ %DUEHFXH LQ $XVWLQ 7H[DV VKRW IRU 1DWLRQDO *HRJUDSKLF EHORZ

shoot the airline's new global campaign, “Keep

work and make connections. It all comes back

Climbing,� which traded years of Delta ad work

to a central philosophy he adopted as a young

shot in black and white for Finke’s signature

photographer: put yourself and your work out

bold and colorful style. The “Flight Attendants�

there in as many ways, as often as possible.

project was key to landing both campaigns,

“That’s what builds a career,� said Finke.

said Finke, who added that Delta went for his them in the everyday, at home, in the store,

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Creative Overlap

picking up their kid after school,� Finke told

they knew he could deliver.

Even now, the interplay between Finke’s

the Los Angeles Times in 2012.

Finke’s focus on personal projects has also

personal work and his professional career has

The project resulted in gallery exhibitions

given him a robust second career showing

and his second monograph, Flight Attendants,

his work at dozens of galleries and museums,

Since moving to Brooklyn in 2009, Finke

in 2008. Less than two years later, Air New

including a near two-decade-long relationship

has taken up grilling and shares photos of

Zealand hired Finke to shoot its “Forget

with New York’s ClampArt gallery. The shows,

his hobby on Instagram. It was this personal

Everything You Know About Flying� campaign,

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interest that caught the eye of former

and, a few years after that, Delta Air Lines and

outlet to display and discuss his work, have

National Geographic director of photography

ad agency Wieden+Kennedy tapped him to

become another way to generate interest in his

Todd James in 2014, as he looked for a

continued to drive him forward.

FALL 2017 • PDNEDU.COM

41

PHOTO © BRIAN FINKE

ER[LQJ HYHQWV ZLWK KHU IDWKHU ZKLOH JURZLQJ THIS PAGE: Music-video vixen Sophia photographed on the set of a Mack video for Finke's series "Hip Hop which will be published next year monograph of the same name.

Body, Wilds Honeys," as a

up in South Dakota. Finke was captivated by WKH GUDPD RI WKH È´ JKWV ZKLFK RIWHQ VHUYH DV D ZD\ WR VHWWOH ORFDO GLVSXWHV DQG DYRLG OHWKDO YLROHQFH VR KH VHDUFKHG IRU RQHV KH FRXOG

Tech Specs —

Camera: Nikon D810

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Lens: AF NIKKOR 35mm f/2D

photographer to shoot a cover story on meat.

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Drive: 1T Glyph Studio

National Geographic hired Finke for the shoot,

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Editing Software: Adobe Lightroom

and he’s continued to shoot for them since.

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These days, Finke has found a new subject

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he doesn’t think so. Then again, he never

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him about how she used to attend backyard

other fascinations, either. EDU

42

PDNEDU.COM • FALL 2017

Computer: 13-inch MacBook Pro

edu

Enter by Nov 21, 2017

PRIZES

Student Photo Contest 2018

Fashion & Portraiture / Documentary / Still Life / Travel & Landscape / Fine Art & Personal Work / Multimedia & Video / High School (Any Subject)

ONE SELECT GRAND-PRIZE WINNER WILL RECEIVE:

$1,500 CASH AWARD SEVEN GRAND-PRIZE WINNERS WILL RECEIVE: > A Nikon DSLR camera > A $150 B&H Photo gift card > A portfolio review

WINNERS and HONORABLE MENTIONS will receive a one-year PHOTO+ Basic Membership.

ENTRY FEES

PHOTO © GERMAN MORENO

WINNERS and HONORABLE MENTIONS will be featured in the Spring 2018 issue of PDNedu and in an online gallery, promoted to PDN’s network of more than 475,000 followers.

CATEGORIES

$20 per entry* (single/series) *ONLY students currently enrolled in college, high school or D FHUWLȴ FDWH SURJUDP DUH HOLJLEOH Educators can submit on behalf RI D FODVV

Enter Today!

CONTEST.PDNEDU.COM SPONSORED BY:

FALL 2017 • PDNEDU.COM

43

BUSINESS SMARTS

THIS SPREAD: A story photographed by Joshua Woods for SUITED, a biannual black-and-white-only magazine with a focus on fashion and art.

44

PDNEDU.COM • FALL 2017

Getting your foot in the door with independent publications. by JESSICA GORDON

eyond the magazine rack at the checkout

B

beach series for its spring/summer 2014 edition.

aisle of Whole Foods, there is another world

“All of my strongest work has come from these

of publishing. It exists on the back shelves

collaborations and independent projects,� he says.

of bookstores, in your favorite boutiques (the ones

“Generally these projects also allow my work to live

that sell Palo Santo sticks and mugs with BeyoncĂŠ

alongside other content that I'm excited about and

quotes) and, if you’re lucky, your local library. On

contextualize it editorially.�

these shelves, alive and well—pending funds to

Lifestyle photographer Sidney Bensimon has

print—is a display of independent magazines with

had a similar experience after moving from Los

the kind of innovative imagery you set out to make

Angeles to Brooklyn in 2012. Needing to establish

when you checked “photography� as your major.

herself in a new city, Bensimon contacted “literally

Examples of these types of pubs include PUSS

every magazine,� and was eventually introduced to

PUSS for hip cat lovers, Cherry Bombe for progressive

Cherry Bombe creative director Claudia Wu through

female food enthusiasts, TIDAL—which “pairs East

a friend. After seeing her work, Wu hired Bensimon

Coast sensibilities with a laid-back West Coast

to shoot for the magazine’s second issue. “Through

vibe�—and a slew of others devoted to fashion,

them I’ve met so many people,� says Bensimon,

niche lifestyles and concepts. These are not the

who’s shot for every issue since. While editorial

kinds of magazines that publish monthly—many of

projects for independent publications may not be

them are self-funded passion projects that publish

WKH PRVW SURȴ WDEOH WKH\ȇUH YDOXDEOH ZKHQ VHUYLQJ

quarterly, biannually or even yearly, pushing them

as a foundation for commissioned work.

more into the sphere of a collector’s item. However, it’s these types of magazines where young

photographers

with

dreams

of

mass

circulation are free to explore, building their portfolios from the ground up and showing bigger “My whole portfolio was built on those kind of assignments,â€? says New York City-based Spencer :HOOV 6KRRWLQJ SURIHVVLRQDOO\ IRU Č´ YH \HDUV DQG focusing on editorial portrait work, Wells’s early professional experience depended on independent publications like Stereogum (for which he shot The National at the Eaux Claires music festival) and Bitchslap Magazine. He also collaborated with BEST, D SULQW RÎ? VKRRW RI %(67 &UHDWLYH 6WXGLR WR VKRRW D

PHOTOS OF SUITED SHOT BY SHARON BER

names and brands what they’re capable of.

FALL 2017 • PDNEDU.COM

45

PHOTOS BY JESSE LAITINEN (ABOVE)

3KRWRJUDSKHU -RVKXD :RRGV ZKR VKRW KLV ȴ UVW LEFT AND ABOVE: PUSS PUSS celebrates gorgeous photography, thoughtful writing and interviews—and, of course, cats. The UK-based publication KDV SXEOLVKHG ̼ YH issues to date.

fashion editorial with SUITED, got in contact with Owens through mutual friends and on Instagram. “We became friends and I saw his work develop,� Owens says. “We set up an editorial shoot with him, and it was a risk in some sense because we hadn’t seen his work in a multi-page editorial, but seeing how he was working hard and being consistent allowed us to take that risk. [The shoot] turned out to be one of everyone’s favorites for that issue.� PUSS PUSS editor Maria Joudina says that

PHOTO BY JON GORRIGAN

RI WKH VWDÎ? Č‹ %XW EHIRUH

With the Cherry Bombe photographs in her portfolio,

she

as well as work for Soho

she does her research.

House’s internal magazine House Four, Bensimon went on to shoot images for Bon AppÊtit

native

ads,

Vegan:

The Cookbook with Phaidon Press, and creative agencies that represent food brands.

contacts

anyone,

“Bigger [clients]

“It’s really good to be up

always want to see a similar thing that you’ve shot already.�

working on, so for Down

on what they’ve been East [the magazine of Maine], I contacted the art director and was like, ‘Your summer issue was so cool; I checked out

“When you shoot for smaller

two of the swimming

companies, you have more creative input as a photographer, so it’s a good

holes that you suggested and I really appreciated

way [to help] shape your portfolio,� she says.

that story.’ And in the email, I attached a photo

Plus, a fact that will never change: “Bigger [clients] always want to see a similar thing that

I shot of my friend at the swimming hole they mentioned. That went over really well.�

you’ve shot already,� Bensimon says. “If I want

Ashley Owens, founder and editor of SUITED, a

to shoot for REI, for example, I’ll take my friends

thick biannual fashion and art publication using

camping and take some photos of that, so if the

black-and-white photography to highlight what

opportunity ever comes, [I can say] ‘Here are some

its subjects are “well-suited� for, says many of her

camping photos, I’m totally good for this job.’�

collaborations with photographers come from

But another truth remains: Thousands of

hearing their name. “When a photographer is

photographers exist, and there are only so many

DFWLYH LQ WKH Č´ HOG \RX VWDUW WR FRPH DFURVV HDFK

publications. How do you get an independent

other,� she says.

editor’s attention?

Personal

introductions

beat

all

forms

of

Bensimon starts with a trip to her favorite

communication, and second to that, “messaging

bookstore: “I take every magazine that I like, look

us on social media; Instagram is a great way

DW WKH PDVWKHDG DQG WU\ WR Č´ QG HPDLO DGGUHVVHV

that people review portfolios now,� Owens says.

46

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LEFT AND ABOVE: Cherry Bombe is a modern women’s publication with a culinary spin. At left is a portrait of nutrition author Daphne Oz, photographed by Sidney Bensimon.

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FALL 2017 • PDNEDU.COM

47

HOW TO

Bold Beauty Lighting

O

nce upon a time, world-renowned Nikon Ambassador Matthew Jordan Smith was just a student at the Art

ΖQVWLWXWH RI $WODQWD WU\LQJ WR ȴ QG KLV ZD\ 1RZ some 30 years later, this highly sought-after celebrity, beauty and portrait photographer’s A-list clientele includes Oprah Winfrey, Halle Berry, Jennifer Connelly, Jamie Foxx and makeup OHDGHUV /ȇ2UDO 2OD\ 3DQWHQH DQG 5HYORQ But while traditional schooling helped him acquire skills in the trade, it was his time as a photo assistant in New York City that was his ȊUHDO WUDLQLQJ ȋ KH VD\V Ȋ$W ȴ UVW Ζ ZRUNHG IRU free as an intern, then I was hired as a full-time

See how Matthew Jordan Smith achieves his signature lighting look with Japanese TV star Becky.

assistant [working for fashion photographer %UXFH %XFN@ DQG LW FKDQJHG P\ OLIH ΖW JDYH me [a] real foundation and perspective on SKRWRJUDSK\ DQG WKH EXVLQHVV ȋ 'XULQJ KLV WLPH DV D IUHHODQFH DVVLVWDQW KH DPDVVHG

by Amy Touchette

invaluable lessons from photographers such as Neil Barr, who he credits with being most LQȾ XHQWLDO RQ KLV OLJKWLQJ HGXFDWLRQ %DUUȇV work ethic, which was steeped in precision and perseverance, allowed Smith to notice the

48 3'1('8 &20 Č? FALL 2017

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)$// ȏ 3'1('8 &20 49

What You'll Need —

Cameras: Nikon D5 Lenses: AF-S NIKKOR 85mm f/1.4, AF-S NIKKOR 58m f/1.4G

Lights: Monolight, natural light Other Equipment: Beauty dish,

and the sun for image 2. In both cases, Smith

To achieve the shadows on Becky’s face

measured the light using a Sekonic L-858D-U

in image 2, Smith used good old-fashioned

light meter, which he highly advises: “Nothing

VXQOLJKW SOXV D ODUJH ZKLWH 9 Čľ DW SODFHG

takes the place of using a light meter. I believe

behind him to open up the shadows. “The

in being precise when it comes to lighting

shoot was actually over and we were about to

and you can't do that by just reading the

break down the set, and she was on her way

histograms.�

WR WDNH RÎ? KHU PDNHXS DQG JHW GUHVVHG DJDLQ

To make the image of Becky alone (image

when I saw the sunlight come through the

3) and Becky with her sister, JJ (image 1), Smith

window.� Smith recalls. “At that very moment,

placed a monolight head with a beauty dish

I screamed: ‘Stop! Don't change,’ and brought

on a C-stand with a C-stand arm in front of his

her back and we got that shot. It was a fun day

VXEMHFWV DQG D UHČľ HFWRU RQ D PLQL & VWDQG ZLWK

and we had a ball throughout the entire shoot

a C-stand arm under his subjects to create a

. . . and I got to work on my Japanese the entire

UHČľ HFWLRQ LQ WKHLU H\HV

day as well.� EDU

50

PDNEDU.COM • FALL 2017

THIS PAGE: A straight-on beauty SRUWUDLW RI %HFN\ LQ LPDJH lit by a monolight, beauty GLVK DQG UHĚŚ HFWRU

PHOTO Š MATTHEW JORDAN SMITH

UHĚŚ HFWRU OLJKW PHWHU & VWDQG DQG & VWDQG DUP PLQL & VWDQG DQG & VWDQG DUP ODUJH ZKLWH 9 ĚŚ DW

3.

SPECIAL REPORT

Laying the Foundation Three institutions that prepare photographers to hit the ground running. by AMY TOUCHETTE

52

PDNEDU.COM • FALL 2017

NEW YORK CITY

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FALL ȏ 3'1('8 &20

53

SAVANNAH • ATLANTA • HONG KONG • LACOSTE, FRANCE • SCAD ELEARNING

SAVANNAH COLLEGE OF ART AND DESIGN (SCAD)

A hallmark of the photography BFA program at Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD) is “enlightening students to practices in the commercial

and

exhibition

PHOTO Š SHELSEA DORAN

professional,

world,â€? says Michael James O’Brien, associate chair of photography at SCAD. And such SUHSDUDWLRQ LV PDGH HYHQ PRUH HÎ? HFWLYH E\ what underpins it: At the heart of SCAD’s photography program are courses that teach students to look deep within themselves in order to develop their own ideas and personal vision. Combined with practical skills and technical knowledge, students are prepared

THIS PAGE: A photo student examines his negatives (top); SCAD Atlanta’s 2017 senior photo show (above).

for a career that can incorporate their own unique take on the medium. “There is equal

Atlanta has an outstanding fashion program

emphasis on individual concept, signature

and world-class fashion museum, SCAD FASH

style and advanced technique,� O’Brien says.

Museum of Fashion + Film, he adds, which allows

progress through a well-rounded, demanding

—

Website: scad.edu 'HJUHH RÎ? HUHG BFA, BA, MA, MFA

“SCAD specializes in professional placement

business courses and foundation studies.

and the program is highly geared to those

Students learn drawing, design, color theory

expectations,� says O’Brien. Alumni often return

and an interdisciplinary visual vocabulary

to mentor students, arming graduates with a

that enables them to work across creative

network of support and a full understanding of

professions. In addition, “all students are

the challenges they will face as a professional.

that

includes

marketing

required to take a course in professional

Aside from the photography BFA, SCAD

practices, which gives them training from

RÎ? HUV D YDULHW\ RI RWKHU SKRWRJUDSK\ SURJUDPV

studio

including a BA in visual communication with

production

and

billing

to

gallery

collaboration,� adds O’Brien.

a concentration in photography, an MA in

SCAD students graduate equipped with a

photography and an MFA in photography.

comprehensive set of tools that help them

SCAD has four locations in three continents—

stand out once they enter the working world.

Savannah, Atlanta, Hong Kong and Lacoste,

Annual tuition: $35,190

“The SCAD BFA program is constantly evolving

France—as well as the option to study online

(undergrad); $36,045 (grad)

to accommodate changes in the professional

via SCAD eLearning.

Length of program: Four years (BFA, BA)

see website for international tuition fees and length of master’s programs

54

designers who show there.

and

curriculum

SCHOOL STATS

students to engage with professional artists and

PDNEDU.COM • FALL 2017

world of creative communication,� says O’Brien.

Students in the photography BFA program

And for those interested in portrait and fashion,

can concentrate in commercial photography,

SCAD has knowledgeable faculty to prep students

documentary

for the commercial industry, O’Brien says. SCAD

photography.

photography

or

fine-art

PHOTO COURTESY OF SAVANNAH COLLEGE OF ART AND DESIGN (TOP)

Students in the photography BFA program

LONDON, ENGLAND

University of the Arts London (UAL) is one

world experience outside of the classroom,

UNIVERSITY OF THE ARTS LONDON

of the top six universities for art and design,

such as working for Tate or visiting London-

according to the QS World University Rankings.

based

Its undergraduate and graduate degrees in

publishing houses. Individual

SKRWRJUDSK\ RÎ? HUHG WKURXJK WKH /RQGRQ

facilities,

development

studios is

and

supported

London

WKURXJK OHFWXUHV VHPLQDUV SURMHFW EULHČ´ QJV

College of Fashion, include a BA (Hons) in

and technical workshops taught by practicing

photography, BA (Hons) in photojournalism

photographers, artists, curators and writers,

and documentary photography, BA (Hons) in

as well as regular talks from visiting speakers.

fashion photography, graduate diploma in

Courses are designed to encourage students

photography, MA in photography and MA in

to increasingly take on responsibility and

photojournalism and documentary.

ownership of their work and their education

College

(UAL)

production

of

Communication

and

so that, upon graduation, they’re prepared to transition into a full-time career. Another highlight of the school, says Carruthers, is the top-notch digital and analog facilities and professional studios students have access to. The program culminates in a 9,000-word

PHOTO Š ERRIN YESILKAYA

PHOTO Š ANA ESCOBAR

PHOTO Š UNIVERSITY OF THE ARTS LONDON, UAL

thesis and an exhibition at the university.

Beverley Carruthers, course leader of

:KLOH SUHSDULQJ IRU WKLV Č´ QDO SKDVH VWXGHQWV

the BA in photography, says the program’s

participate in ongoing forums for debate and

success in producing students who go on

critical evaluation. Any additional skills they

to

careers

might need to carry out their professional

rests partly in its ever-evolving, multi-genre

JRDOV DUH LGHQWLČ´ HG DQG UHOHYDQW ZRUNVKRSV

curriculum. “We run a program that celebrates

DUH RÎ? HUHG LQ UHVSRQVH

have

inspiring

and

lucrative

all areas of photography through a conceptual

UAL also helps students and graduates

lens, and we adapt the program in order to

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Č´ QG WKH EHVW SHGDJRJLF SUDFWLFHV WR WHDFK

in creative and cultural sectors through its

this,� she explains. As a result, “a major asset

careers and professional practice service. UAL

of the program,� Carruthers says, is that it

is also the founder of Artquest, a program that

“allows for a diverse range of explorations of

provides online career advice and guidance

photography.� Because the program does not

for visual artists. EDU

specify a genre, students can interpret each THIS PAGE: Images from UAL’s 2017 Media School Degree Show, where photography and other media students present their work from the year.

FRXUVH DV WKH\ VHH Č´ W ČŠ6WXGHQWV DUH LQWURGXFHG to a large variety of thoughts surrounding the photographic medium, and through this they learn how to research and develop their initial ideas, experiment and create work.â€? In addition to teaching a wide range of photographic practices, students also take art, design, communication, business, media, science and communication courses. “Much of what we teach are transferable skills: research skills, curiosity, creative problem solving,

SCHOOL STATS —

Website: arts.ac.uk 'HJUHH RÎ? HUHG BA (Hons), MA Length of program: Three years Annual tuition: $11,953 (BA domestic); $23,158 (BA int’l); $11,075 (MA domestic); $23,350 (MA int’l)

critical thinking and collaborative working,� Carruthers says. Courses also provide real-

FALL 2017 • PDNEDU.COM

55

What does it cost... WHAT DOES IT COST… to study, TO STUDY, LIVE live AND and work in WORK IN...?

AVERAGE RENT (STUDIO APT.)

Los Angeles AVERAGE RENT (STUDIO APT.)

$ 1,422

Hollywood may be full of tourists but, unlike Times Square, it’s a neighborhood that appeals to natives, too. It’s a short ride to Downtown LA via the Red Line, and, if you’re looking for cheaper rent, take it north to NoHo’s Arts District.

$ 950

Close to Pasadena, Eagle Rock has cheap rents, a brewery and plenty of hiking spots. With neighboring Highland Park and Glassell Park, it’s an area that post-graduates are flocking to.

STUDY HERE

UCLA ArtCenter’s career-focused undergraduate program covers a range of photographic fields and has deep relationships to the photo industry, providing networking and internship opportunities.

ANNUAL TUITION

Photography at UCLA is art-focused and emphasizes concepts and narrative storytelling over technical skill, and installation and video art are integrated. UCLA has a 9-month academic year.

ANNUAL TUITION $41,408

Undergrad

ROOM AND BOARD

$11,502 In-state undergrad $13,254 In-state grad Out-of-state undergrad $41,268 Out-of-state grad $26,604

ROOM AND BOARD

No campus housing available

$15,441 Off campus

On campus

OVERALL

HOUSING

+44%

+122%

GROCERIES

UTILITIES

+10%

+9%

HEALTHCARE

TRANSPORT

+8%

+41%

$13,206

LUNCH + DRINK

TAXI, 5 MILES

MILK, 1 QUART

MOVIE TICKET

RED WINE, 1 BOTTLE

DINNER FOR 2

GAS, 1 GALLON

1 BEER

MONTHLY TRANSPORT

MONTHLY GYM

$15

$0.98 $14

$2.98 $100

$23 $14

$49-87 $7

$57

S

T A R S

AIN

M

LT

HY LI V IN

G

T

$ 1,510

In Westside LA, Culver City is a fantastic neighborhood for aspiring photographers. It’s an arts and production hub, and its proximity to Venice ain’t bad, either.

CALIFORNIA INSTITUTE OF THE ARTS

Students at USC’s Roski School learn traditional, digital and new media techniques and dig deep into history and critical theory. Roski also offers top-notch study-abroad art programs through Syracuse University and University of the Arts London.

ANNUAL TUITION $49,464

Undergrad

RT

EN

UNIVERSITY OF SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA

E

AVERAGE RENT (STUDIO APT.)

$ 1,608

Echo Park is a little rougher around the edges than its hipster neighbor, Silver Lake. You’ll find coffee shops, local pubs, street art and vinyl shops, plus the renovated Echo Park Lake.

ROOM AND BOARD $15,831

A C O S

ER

AVERAGE RENT (STUDIO APT.)

Freshman

T

HEA

Y W E AT

ENT

N

H

S

SUN

A C H E

B

E

CalArts’ BFA and MFA programs in Photography and Media have a basis in photo but also cover motion work, installation, new media and performance. Try this program if you’re interested in learning about social documentary and activism within a fine-art setting.

ANNUAL TUITION

Undergrad/Grad

$46,830

Grad

$12,760

ROOM AND BOARD Upperclassman

1. APEX PHOTO STUDIOS, DOWNTOWN Highlights: Six studios, two rooftops and a loft. COST: From $55-$125/hr.

2. FD PHOTO STUDIO, DOWNTOWN Highlights: 11 studio options, rates include lighting gear COST: From $25/hr.

$10,005

Undergrad

$11,140

4. EDGE STUDIOS & GRIP, VINEYARD 5. LOS ANGELES CAMERA RENTALS, HOLLYWOOD 6. SAMY’S CAMERA, PLAYA VISTA

3. DREAM FACTORY LOS ANGELES, MISSION JUNCTION Highlights: Perfect for small- to mid-sized editorial and video shoots. COST: $135 (2 hours); $485 (1/2day); $885 (full day)

Sources expatistan.com payscale.com rentcafe.com

PRODUCT NEWS

by GREG SCOBLETE

FALL FAVORITES

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nikonusa.com

Nikon D7500 This DX-format DSLR comes packed with many of the

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SB-5000 AF Speedlight + Joe McNally Hands-on Class

$600 (SB-5000); $50 (Hands-On Class)

nikonusa.com

7KH FRPSDFW 6% LV 1LNRQȇV Čľ DJVKLS 6SHHGOLJKW ΖW FDQ be triggered optically alongside older Nikon Speedlights or via a wireless radio when used on the D5, D500 or ' ZLWK WKH :5b $ 5 WUDQVFHLYHU ZKLFK JLYHV \RX PRUH Čľ H[LELOLW\ ZKHQ SODFLQJ WKH OLJKW RÎ? FDPHUD VLQFH it doesn’t require line of sight to work. In fact, you can trigger the SB-5000 from up to 98 feet away, including through walls. Since it’s a part of Nikon’s Creative Lighting System, it plays well with older lights. You can create up WR VL[ GLÎ? HUHQW JURXSV RI Čľ DVKHV IRU ZLUHOHVV FRQWURO DQG PL[ RSWLFDOO\ FRQWUROOHG Čľ DVK JURXSV ZLWK UDGLR FRQWUROOHG RQHV 7KDQNV WR D QHZ Čľ DVK FRROLQJ V\VWHP \RX FDQ Č´ UH RÎ? RYHU FRQVHFXWLYH Čľ DVKHV DW IXOO SRZHU ZLWKRXW WKH risk of overheating. You can unlock the full power of the SB-5000 with 1LNRQ $PEDVVDGRU DQG OLJKWLQJ H[SHUW -RH 0F1DOO\ȇV RQOLQH YLGHR FRXUVH ΖQ LW 0F1DOO\ ZDONV XVHUV WKURXJK DOO RI WKH Čľ DVKȇV NH\ IHDWXUHV DQG SURYLGHV LQVLJKWV RQ how to shoot it in both a studio setting and outdoors. You’ll learn how to shoot basic TTL shots as well as how WR ZRUN ZLWK UHPRWH Čľ DVKHV WR FUHDWH GUDPDWLF LPDJHV There are downloadable lighting diagrams and tips for photographers of all skill levels.

Price: $310

AF-P DX NIKKOR 1020mm f/4.5-5.6G VR Ideal for DX-format DSLRs like the D7500 or D500, this lens is a versatile wide-angle zoom with Nikon’s Vibration Reduction technology built in. You’ll enjoy 3.5 stops of VR, per CIPA standards, so feel free to drop those shutter speeds and let the light in. Autofocusing is driven by a pulse motor for quick, quiet operation—perfect for video work or candid portraits. Thanks to its internal focusing, the lens won’t change size as you adjust your focus distance. You can instantly switch from autofocusing to manual focus simply by turning the focus ring. This lens can focus on objects as close as 8.6 inches away. It has a seven-blade aperture for beautiful bokeh when shooting wide open and stops down to f/29.

FALL Č? 3'1('8 &20

59

Price: $179

OWC SoftRAID

m

&RQȴ JXULQJ D 5$Ζ' DUUD\ FDQ EH D KDVVOH :LWK 2:&ȇV 6RIW5$Ζ' \RXȇOO HQMR\ D VWUHDPOLQHG software-driven process that works with drives IURP DQ\ PDQXIDFWXUHU 2QFH 6RIW5$Ζ' LV loaded on your Mac you’ll be guided through an Ȋ(DV\ 6HWXSȋ SURFHVV WR FUHDWH \RXU QHZ 5$Ζ' volumes. The software can monitor the health of your drives—included external discs and USB Ⱦ DVK GULYHV ΖW VXSSRUWV WKH ODWHVW 86% VWDQGDUG DV ZHOO DV 7KXQGHUEROW 6RIW5$Ζ' FDQ tap two Thunderbolt 3 drives simultaneously to create a single volume that can read/write GDWD DW VSHHGV QRUWK RI *% V ΖW FDQ SHUIRUP GLVN FHUWLȴ FDWLRQV RQ QHZ GULYHV WR HQVXUH WKH\ UHOLDEO\ UHDG DQG ZULWH GDWD DQG GLVN YHULȴ FDWLRQ on existing drives to ensure they still read data properly. The software, now on version 5.6, lets you assign storage capacities to each of your hard drives. Thanks to predictive failure analysis, 6RIW5$Ζ' FDQ DOVR DQWLFLSDWH GULYH IDLOXUH DKHDG RI time and issue warnings before your data is put at risk.The software can create multiple types of 5$Ζ' GULYHV LQFOXGLQJ 5$Ζ' DQG DQG has the ability manage storage capacities up to a whopping 4 petabytes (that’s 4,000TB).

Price: $10 $120 (Chan $160 (Mov

manfrott

Manfrotto Manhattan Collection Manfrotto’s new Manhattan gear bags will be right at home on any bustling city street. The line consists of the Mover-50 backpack, the Speedy-10 messenger and the Changer-20 shoulder bag. All the bags feature a shapeshifting Flexy Camera Shell divider system that can be molded around your unique collection of gear, or removed entirely. The bags’ exterior features a hidden tripod strap, plus additional straps and webbing for attaching extra gear. 7KH\ RÎ? HU ZDWHU UHSHOOLQJ H[WHULRUV DQG FRPH with a rain cover. The Changer-20 comes with a shoulder strap but can be converted to a backpack thanks to an extra strap stowed in the back pocket. Handles tucked away in the side pocket can be pulled out to transform the bag yet again—this time, into that most urban of accouterments: a tote bag.

60 3'1('8 &20 Č? FALL 2017

Ponte Leather Camera Lift-Strap The Camera Lift-Strap is one of those ideas that’s so obvious, you’re surprised no one ever thought

Price: $59 (leather); $37 (canvas)

of it before (for the record, maybe someone did—

ponteleather.com

ZH KDYHQȇW UXPPDJHG WKURXJK WKH SDWHQW ȴ OHV The Lift-Strap alleviates neck strain by shifting the weight of your camera to a backpack (not LQFOXGHG 7ZR YHUVLRQV RI WKH VWUDS DUH PDGH from leather, while four others are made of 100 percent cotton with weather-resistant nylon VWLWFKLQJ %RWK IHDWXUH VROLG EUDVV FRPSRQHQWV ZLWK DQWL R[LGH ȴ QLVKHV 7KH OHDWKHU VWUDSV DUH VROG LQ VROLG EODFN RU EODFN ZLWK UHG WULP 7KH canvas straps are available in blue, red, light blue DQG EXUQW RUDQJH

Epson SureColor P5000 Standard Edition & Print Layout Software Price: $1,995

With Epson’s newest 17-inch SureColor P5000,

epson.com

you can create color prints that will resist fading IRU RYHU \HDUV 7KH SULQWHU XVHV D QHZ P/ UltraChrome HDX 10-color pigment ink set with QHZ RUDQJH DQG JUHHQ LQNV 7KH EODFN LQNV DUH times denser than the prior generation for a wider FRQWUDVW UDWLR 7KH 3 ȇV UHVLQ HQFDSVXODWLRQ technology has also been improved to deliver EHWWHU JORVV XQLIRUPLW\ DQG VKDUSHU LPDJHV 7KH printer can auto-switch between a high-capacity front paper cassette and a power-driven roll PHGLD IHHGHU LQFOXGHG 8VLQJ UROO PHGLD \RX FDQ crank out panoramas up to 100 feet in length— LPSUHVVLQJ IULHQGV DQG HQUDJLQJ URRPPDWHV 7KHUHȇV DOVR D IURQW IHHG VWUDLJKW SDWK IRU ȴ QH DUW VKHHW PHGLD XS WR PP WKLFN -RLQLQJ WKH SULQWHU is a free Print Layout utility, which will work with any PRGHO LQ WKH 6XUH&RORU VHULHV

Delkin Black Rugged Memory Card Reader Whether you’re working in forbidding locations or

Price: $50

are just spectacularly clumsy around your studio,

delkindevices.com

'HONLQ 'HYLFHVȇ %ODFN 86% PHPRU\ FDUG UHDGHU LV EXLOW WRXJK 7KH 5XJJHGȇV SODVWLF DQG aluminum build is complemented by a rubber FRYHU WR GHIHQG DJDLQVW PRLVWXUH GXVW DQG GURSV The reader works with the fastest CF and SD cards you can buy—that’s the UHS-II spec for SD cards DQG 8'0$ IRU &) FDUGV ΖW FRQQHFWV YLD 86% IRU WUDQVIHU VSHHGV XS WR 0% V 'HONLQ EDFNV the sale up with a 5-year warranty that includes a KRXU IXOO UHSODFHPHQW JXDUDQWHH

FALL Č? 3'1('8 &20

61

PDNEDU ASKS

1. MOLLY CRANNA mollycranna.com

“I like to keep things simple and H΍ HFWLYH 7KHUH DUH VKRRWV ZKHUH Ζ XVH IRXU WR ȴ YH OLJKWV DQG YDULRXV PRGLȴ HUV EXW P\ SUHIHUUHG VHWXS KDSSHQV WR EH SUHWW\ VLPSOH WR DFKLHYH ZKLFK FRPHV LQ KDQG\ RQ MREV ZKHUH VSDFH RU EXGJHW LV WLJKW $ VLQJOH VWUREH VKRRWLQJ LQWR D EODFN ZKLWH XPEUHOOD SRVLWLRQHG DERXW IHHW DZD\ IURP WKH PRGHO MXVW DERYH KHU H\HOLQH ΖW FDVWV D QLFH VRIW OLJKW ZKLFK LV SRZHUIXO HQRXJK WR OLJKW XS D VHDPOHVV EDFNGURS ZLWK PLQLPDO VKDGRZV Ζ DOVR OLNH WR EULQJ LQ EODFN 9 ȵ DWV RQ HLWKHU VLGH RI WKH PRGHO DV FORVH DV SRVVLEOH WR

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“What is your go-to portrait lighting setup?” Compiled by JACQUI PALUMBO

The next time you need some lighting inspiration, keep these looks in mind. We DVNHG ȴ YH SKRWRJUDSKHUV ZKDW JRHV LQWR WKHLU IDYRULWH WULHG DQG WUXH OLJKWLQJ VHWXSV 62

PDNEDU.COM • FALL 2017

2.

“In this photo, a 5-foot

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3.

2. DREW GURIAN

3. DIXIE DIXON

drewgurian.com

dixiedixon.com

ČŠ1DWXUDO OLJKW LV TXLWH Čľ DWWHULQJ

RQ PRVW IDFHV LI XVHG HÎ? HFWLYHO\ )RU SRUWUDLWV Ζ OLNH WR XVH D ORQJ OHQVČƒOLNH WKH $) 6 1Ζ..25 PP I ( ('ČƒDQG D UHČľ HFWRU )RU WKLV

1 Ζ .2 1 $ 0 % $ 6 6 $ ' 2 5

shot at El Matador Beach, I used WKH VKDGH DQG SRVLWLRQHG KHU MXVW XQGHUQHDWK WKH URFNV 8VLQJ D VLOYHU UHȾ HFWRU P\ DVVLVWDQW ERXQFHG OLJKW EDFN LQWR KHU IDFH WR FUHDWH VRPH FRQWUDVW <RX FDQ VHH WKH OLJKW LV FRPLQJ IURP EHKLQG ZKLFK creates a nice hair light as well.�

4. ČŠ2QH OLJKW VRXUFH KDV EHHQ P\ go-to portrait lighting setup for TXLWH VRPH WLPH ΖW LV HDV\ TXLFN DQG FRQYHQLHQW DQG FDQ HDVLO\ DGDSW WR YDULRXV VLWXDWLRQV Ζ XVH D VWXGLR VWUREH PRGLČ´ HG ZLWK D 22-inch beauty dish, positioned DW D WR GHJUHH DQJOH 7KLV VLPSOH VHWXS VDYHV PH WLPH DQG Ζ FDQ HDVLO\ SRVLWLRQ LWČƒHYHQ LQ OLPLWHG DQG WLJKW VSDFHV Č‹

5.

“It’s usually one studio strobe

with a 5-foot octabox and a 6 x IRRW ZKLWH UHȾ HFWRU VFULP MLP RQ WKH RSSRVLWH VLGH RI WKH VXEMHFW ΖWȇV FOHDQ VLPSOH DQG YHUVDWLOH IRU D YDULHW\ RI VLWXDWLRQV ΖQ WKLV H[DPSOH WKH VWUREH ZDV DERXW D IRRW EHKLQG WKH VXEMHFW ZLWK WKH

4. IRVIN RIVERA

5. JERRY GHIONIS

graphicsmetropolis.com

jerryghionis.com 1 Ζ .2 1 $ 0 % $ 6 6 $ ' 2 5

octabox feathered out, the light MXVW UHDFKLQJ WKH VLGH RI KHU IDFH WKDW IDFHG PH 7KH UHȾ HFWRU ȴ OOHG in the shadows behind her.�

FALL 2017 • PDNEDU.COM

63

OUT OF THE PAST

[1895-1989]

Louise Dahl-Wolfe Before Avedon, the Harper’s Bazaar VWDÎ? SKRWRJUDSKHU transformed the nature of the fashion editorial. By HILARY REID

Flip through the pages of Vogue or Harper’s Bazaar DQG \RXȇOO Č´ QG IDVKLRQ HGLWRULDOV WKDW WHOO a story about the woman who wears them— what kind of places she’ll go to, what kind of woman she’ll be. But it wasn’t always that way. Pioneering photographer Louise Dahl-Wolfe left formal, staid studio portraiture behind to create editorials that were sensual, lively and drenched in natural light. The daughter of Norwegian immigrants, Dahl-Wolfe was born in California in 1895. In her 20s, she enrolled in the San Francisco Institute of Art, where she studied interior design and art history. In 1921, Dahl-Wolfe encountered WKH ZRUN RI $QQH : %ULJPDQ RQH RI WKH Č´ UVW members of the Photo-Secession movement— ZKLFK SURPRWHG SKRWRJUDSK\ DV D Č´ QH DUWČƒ and was inspired to take her own photos. Dahl-Wolfe traveled to Europe in 1927 with her friend, news photographer Consuelo Kanaga, PHOTO Š MOLLY CRANNA

and explored foreign locales spanning Europe to North Africa, which became the backdrop for Dahl-Wolfe’s fashion shoots years later. It was on a train platform in Tunisia where Dahl-Wolfe met her future husband, sculptor Meyer Wolfe. The Wolfes married in 1928, and in 1932 moved to Meyer’s home state of Tennessee, where Dahl-Wolfe documented life during the Great Depression. This work—including the portrait “Tennessee Mountain Woman,� which

PHOTO Š 1989 CENTER FOR CREATIVE PHOTOGRAPHY, ARIZONA BOARD OF REGENTS. COURTESY STALEY-WISE GALLERY, NEW YORK

THIS PAGE: “Twins at the Beach,� Nassau, Bahamas, 1949, from the monograph Louise DahlWolfe, published by Aperture in 2016.

was published in Vanity Fair—launched her career as a photographer. The following year,

and wry. As Snow once said, Harper’s Bazaar

magazines. She freelanced before retiring from

the couple moved to New York City, where Dahl-

became a magazine for “well-dressed women

photography altogether in 1960.

Wolfe opened a portrait photography studio,

with well-dressed minds.� Dahl-Wolfe was one

Nearly three decades since her death, Dahl-

photographing for companies including Saks

RI WKH Č´ UVW SKRWRJUDSKHUV WR ZRUN ZLWK FRORU

Wolfe’s legacy lives on: Last year, Aperture

Fifth Avenue, Woman’s Home Companion, and

Č´ OP DQG LQ WKH WZR GHFDGHV WKDW 'DKO :ROIH

Foundation published 134 of her images in the

Bonwit Teller.

worked for Harper’s Bazaar, she published 600

monograph Louise Dahl-Wolfe, and the Museum

ΖQ 'DKO :ROIH MRLQHG WKH VWDÎ? RI Harper’s

pages of color photographs and 86 covers.

of FIT exhibited “The Women of Harper’s

Bazaar, completing the powerful quartet of

+HU ZRUN LQČľ XHQFHG FRXQWOHVV SKRWRJUDSKHUV

Bazaar, 1936-1958.� Her photographs have

editor Carmel Snow, fashion editor Diana

including Irving Penn and Richard Avedon, who

been displayed at the Museum of Modern Art,

Vreeland and art director Alexey Brodovitch.

said of Dahl-Wolfe, “She was the bar we all

the Grey Gallery at New York University, the

The four revitalized fashion photography and

measured ourselves against.�

George Eastman Museum and at the Center

visual editorials. Models were photographed

Dahl-Wolfe left Harper’s Bazaar in 1958,

for Creative Photography at the University of

in locales such as France, Mexico and Cuba for

expressing frustration with what she considered

Arizona, where the full archive of Dahl-Wolfe’s

luminous spreads that were both sumptuous

to

work is located. EDU

64

PDNEDU.COM • FALL 2017

be

the

commercialization

of

fashion

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