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, you go to Philly. Gotta have fork-

tender barbecue? Go South, young man. But when the snow finally melts, the All-Star break approaches and Route 3 is a parking lot of beachgoers headed to the Cape, Bostonians want nothing more (or less) than a mouthful of our local claim to fame—a mound of just barely mayonnaised lobster meat on a toasted bun or fried clam bellies piled high in a paper bag—to feel like summer’s in full swing. Same goes for this town’s top chefs. Sure, dining at classy joints with state-of-the-art menus and exotic raw materials—dehydrated honey, coconut froth, etc.—is always a treat. But this is simple seafood country, and not even chefs with the most refined talents and honed palates can resist seeking out, as Troquet executive chef Scott Herbert Gordon Hamersley

Anthony Susi

hef/owner of

chef/owner of Sage

Hamersley’s Bistro

His seafood sanctuaries:

Captain Marden’s, 279 Linden St., Wellesley (781235-0860); Twin Seafood, 2 Church St., West Concord (978-371-9030) Why he likes them: “Food gets too fancy sometimes, in my opinion. These are really simple places. I used to get seafood [to serve at the Bistro? –NA] at Captain Marden’s before they moved their warehouse. I love their chowder and fried fish sandwich. And Twin Seafood is a retail fish place with a lunch counter. I get their clam rolls with extra tartar sauce. I’m a fried-clam-a-holic.” What he eats: Captain Marden’s: New England clam chowder ($3.50–$4.95), classic fish sandwich ($6.50); Twin Seafood: Clam roll ($9.98)

Morse Fish Co., 1401 Washington St., Boston (617-2629375); Yankee Lobster Co., 300 Northern Ave., Boston (617-345-9799) Why he likes them: “I go to both of these places when I’m out buying seafood. They’ve both got retail takeout counters with places to sit down. The lobster rolls [at Morse] are really superfresh and not expensive, and the fried clams are also great. And the swordfish [at Yankee Lobster] is also really solid.” What he eats: Morse Fish Co.: Lobster salad sandwich ($12.95); Yankee Lobster Co.: Broiled swordfish dinner ($12.95) Evan Deluty executive chef/owner of Stella His seafood sanctuaries:

Jason Bond executive chef at Beacon Hill Bistro His seafood sanctuary:

The Barnacle, 141 Front St., Marblehead (781-631-4236) Why he likes it: “This is really a guiltypleasure question. [It] overlooks the ocean. It’s one of those old-school seafood joints. In the city, you can’t find that type of simplicity. The new chefs—they don’t cook like that anymore.” What he eats: Fried clams ($19.95) Ana Sortun chef/owner of Oleana

Neptune Oyster; Hingham Lobster Pound, 4 Broad Cove Rd., Hingham (781-749-1984) Why he likes them: “In the city, I like Neptune Oyster. Besides their oysters, they have great chowder. I like it for its simplicity, authenticity and attention to detail with flavors. Otherwise, I love the Hingham Lobster Pound. This is a sit-onthe-car kind of place—a box on the side of the road. Basically you just order your fried clams and a couple sodas and sit on the trunk of the car. It’s great summer-day stuff.” What he eats: Neptune Oyster: New England clam chowder ($9.50); Hingham Lobster Pound: Fried clams ($TK)\

THE IMPROPER BOSTONIAN JUNE 13 – 26, 2007

Chris Schlessinger chef/owner of East Coast Grill and All Star Sandwich Bar His seafood sanctuary:

The Back Eddy, 1 Bridge Rd., Westport (508-636-6500) Why he likes it: “This place is the epitome of summer. It’s a tourist restaurant and lots of people are on vacation. They’re catching fish and bringing them in. Everything is locally caught and locally raised. Oysters from Sakonnet. Clams from Westport. Lobsters are caught right off the dock. They even get striped bass sometimes.” What he eats: Whitefish ($TK) Russell Ferguson executive sous chef at Eastern Standard His seafood sanctuary:

The Barking Crab, 88 Sleeper St., Boston (617-426-2722) Why he likes it: “The ambiance is awesome. It’s simple, and they’re not trying to make it into something else. It’s a combination of casual and feel-good, and it’s in the city, so it’s jumping and crowded in the afternoon, because people get done with work and just walk over there. I love their crabcake burger. It’s a bit more refined than a crabcake—crunchy on the outside and steamy on the inside.” What he eats: Barking Crab cake burger ($11) Andy Husbands chef/owner of Tremont 647, Sister Sorel and Rouge His seafood sanctuary:

Dbar, 1236 Dorchester Ave., Boston (617-265-4490) Why he likes it: “Cheap seafood is an oxymoron, but I really like Dbar. The chef [name? –NA] is young and up-and-coming. He’s really good, and all his entrees are under $20.” What he eats: Softshell crabs ($TK), haddock ($TK) Scott Herbert executive chef at Troquet

Her seafood sanctuary:

Belle Isle Lobster & Seafood, 1267 Saratoga St., Boston (617-567-1619) Why she likes it: “Belle Isle is the only secret I’ve got. It’s a down ’n’ dirty counter place, and it’s the best deal in town. They’ve got huge portions, and the lobster roll is the best lobster roll outside of Maine. It’s a halfpound of meat. That’s all there is. And a tiny hint of mayo. It’s to die for.” What she eats: Lobster roll ($15.99)

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Tony Maws chef/owner, Craigie Street Bistrot His seafood sanctuary:

Woodman’s of Essex 121 Main St., Essex (978-768-6451) Why he likes it: “I grew up fishing on the Vineyard, so I’m a seafood snob. I wish there were more good, casual seafood places; they’re hard to find in Boston. But I really like Woodman’s. I drive up there and hit some antiques stores. It’s always a good time.” What he eats: Fried clams (market price)

His seafood sanctuary:

Neptune Oyster, 63 Salem St., Boston (617-742-3474) Why he likes it: “I love their fried belly clams. And, of course, the oysters. I like the Alaskas and the Duxburys. Their softshells are also great, when they have them. It’s the best deal for the money.” What he eats: Fried clams (market price), oysters (market price), softshell crabs (market price)

PHOTO CREDIT IPSUM LOREM IPSLUMLO

Local chefs dish on their favorite fish slingers, clam shacks and lobster pounds. By Elizabeth Bomze

Here’s the Catch

YOU CRAVE CHEESESTEAKS

JUNE 13 – 26, 2007 THE IMPROPER BOSTONIAN