Page 1

The

DEVON

Cook Book

With Food & Drink Devon A celebration of the amazing food & drink on our doorstep.


FOREWORD Living by the sea is probably one of the best things in life: the quality of the fresh air; the views; the walks; the peace… it’s all so soothing. I always feel so much calmer when returning from London on the train and we hit the stretch of sea; it is serenity. I wouldn’t change it for the world. As a chef, I get inspiration from everyone and everything. Seasons are very important to us as we mainly cook with what the farm produces, so matching the produce is always a challenge but it’s a good one.

The Elephant is our home as well as our business, so it truly is a labour of love. It’s in a fantastic location, just a few minutes’ walk from the harbour with views overlooking the stunning English Riviera.

Over the past 14 years, we’ve developed strong relationships with our suppliers who produce great ingredients for us - the majority are within a 20 mile radius of the restaurant. Brixham fisheries are one of the busiest ports in the UK and all the seafood we use in the restaurant is sustainably caught.

Our dedicated farm in South Devon is sustainably run, using organic farming methods. The farm has revolutionised how we approach our menus, which are based around what we know is in season at that time. We will even alter dishes after our delivery arrives to ensure we include the ingredients we are most excited about.

The vegetation benefits from the favourable microclimate around the English Riviera and the livestock (we rear free-range

pigs, lambs, chickens and Kelly Bronze turkeys) benefits from the stunning countryside, wonderful husbandry and fresh sea air. We are very lucky to have such a variety of fantastic produce on our doorstep and we are committed to sourcing sustainably and ethically. Due to the quality and freshness of our ingredients we don’t need to fuss too much with our dishes - everything on a plate has to be there for a reason, be it texture or taste.

It might not have quite the same dynamic food scene or the buzz of London, but from the weather, the scenery, the fantastic pubs and restaurants to the abundance of quality produce. For me, Devon has it all.

Simon Hulstone - The Elephant 2 | The Devon Cook Book


Editorial

CONTENTS

Credits 2 Foreword – Simon Hulstone, The Elephant 6 Foreword – Noel Corston, Restaurant Noel Corston 8 Contents 12 Food & Drink Devon Welcome to Devon 18 Food & drink 20 Food & Drink Devon 22 The Food & Drink Devon board 24 The Food & Drink Devon awards 26 Festivals, fairs and markets 28 Devon damsel 30 Organic lamb rump, bean cream, raisins, goats curd, Serrano ham 32 The directory 214 Index

220

Other books in the series 224 Chef recipes Bayards Cove Inn Something old, something new 36 Cockles and mussels in Heron Valley Cider, chorizo and clotted cream 38 Ben’s Farm Shop Keeping it real Empanadas Panzanella (Tuscan bread & tomato salad) Chocolate and orange cantuccini

40 42 44 46

Boringdon Hall Enchanting Devonshire dining Crab salad

48 50

4 | The Devon Cook Book

Britannia @ The Beach Freshly fished 52 Monkfish carbonara 54 Pan-fried scallops with smoked bacon and spinach 56 Café Alf Resco Food for friends 58 Alf ’s granola 60 The Cheese Larder Cheese and whey more Ultimate Devon cheeseboard

62 64

The Coffee Cabin Not just the daily grind 66 Carrot cake 68 Column Bakehouse Bread revolution Seeded spelt tin loaf Orange and ginger muffins

70 72 74

Crab Shack Dining on the beach 76 Koh Lanta lobster 78 Scallops with slow-roasted pork belly, apple and pickled fennel 80 The Elephant Destination dining Roast duck, heritage carrots, spiced jus, orange salt Exeter Golf and Country Club Relaxed elegance Turbot, cauliflower, fondant potatoes, asparagus, sorrel, butter sauce

82 84 86 88

Exeter Cookery School Fun and friendly Pan-fried sea bass on spinach and griddled fennel with a Pernod butter sauce

92

The Fish Deli Sensational seafood Harissa mackerel with chickpea gremolata

94 96

90


The Glorious Oyster Oh we do like to be beside the seaside 98 Korean-style seaweed broth (miyeok guk) with kimchi 100 Trio of oysters; baked, naked & coated 102 Harry’s Restaurant Keep it in the family BBQ pork ribs

104 106

Johns of Instow Quality and freshness made locally 108 Local chorizo, sweet potato and pepper tortilla 110 Devon cream tea 112 Jolly Jacks Jolly good show Breaded halloumi with pears, walnuts and chilli jam

114 116

The Journey’s End Inn Organic lamb rump, bean cream, raisins, goats curd, Serrano ham 32 La Petite Bouchée Deliciously Devon Crispy pork belly with apple, fennel and cider sauce Fromage fort Luscombe Drinks Devon damsel Marshford Organic Foods Naturally delicious Judion, green beans and cherry tomatoes with tahini dressing and basil oil The NoBody Inn Skeletons in the closet Dover sole with crab filling and a dill & crayfish velouté Duck and venison faggots

118 120 122 30 124 126 128 130 132

Noel Corston Tasting the seasons Caramelised pig’s head with endive, potato purée and golden sultanas

136

Ollylolly Fresh, frozen and fruity Blueberry lemonade lollies

138 140

Powderham Castle Food for fort

144

6 | The Devon Cook Book

134

Radius 7 Keeping it local 154 Rake Farm beef, bone marrow mash, market vegetables, ale-braised onions 156 Halibut, sautéed potatoes, samphire, butternut squash purée, samphire pesto 158 RHS Garden Rosemoor Bounty of the garden 160 Mediterranean vegetable terrine 162 Cannon of Exmoor beef with wild mushrooms, roasted vine cherry tomatoes and crispy shallots 164 Devon cream tea pudding 166 The Riverford Field Kitchen Seasonal organic dining 170 Tomatoes, pickled red onions, blackberries & fruit vinegar 172 The Riverside Dining on The Riverside 174 Apple, pear and almond pudding with vanilla ice cream 176 Salcombe Gin Devon damsel

30

Saunton Sands Hotel Beachside beauty 178 Roast turbot, lobster dumpling and confit chicken 180 21-day dry-aged Creedy Carver duck 182 Seadog Local fish, world flavours Seaside popcorn with green chilli and ginger sauce

186 188

The Shops at Dartington Explore, eat and enjoy 190 Spicy tomato sausage casserole 192 Passion curd cake 194 South Devon Chilli Farm Turning up the heat Double chocolate chilli brownies

198 200

Thomas Carr @ The Olive Room Shining star 202 Smoked mussel & mackerel potato risotto 204 Waterside Bistro All the buzz of the bistro Roast breast of pheasant, bacon, mushrooms and lentils Chocolate and chestnut torte

206 208 210


Welcome to

DEVON Devon is a region of extraordinarily diverse beauty.

A county defined by rolling hills edged with criss-crossed

steam engine is found in Dartmouth and the first taxi came

moorland and babbling brooks, held together by 205 miles

hotbed of innovation and technological advances, with some

hedgerows, lush woodlands, rugged granite tors, stark of dramatic coastline; salty shores that are indented with 77 beaches, seaside resorts, fishing towns and busy ports.

Devon is easily accessed through rail, flight and more mileage of road than any other county in England. A train journey from Paddington to Devon may only take two hours, but you

arrive in a different world. You’ll notice it in the peculiar place

names from Westward Ho! to Beer, in the egalitarian people who are fiercely proud of their rich culture, and in Devon’s

abiding and diverse sense of place; there’s nowhere quite like it in Britain.

from Plymouth. Nowadays, the business community is a of the UK’s leading companies choosing to reside here.

It’s not hard to see why Devon attracts eight million visitors each year. Devon is a playground for the adventurous, its character changing with each season. Here you can explore

lost ruins overgrown by ancient forests; scramble down fossil-clad cliffs to craggy coves and secret sea caves; surf the North Devon break; picnic in a meadow of bluebells and rare

butterflies; watch the sun set from Dartmoor and spot greater

horseshoe bats. Visitors also make foodie pilgrimages to visit culinary heroes.

Within the fabric of Devon lie clusters of timeless towns

It all goes to show that we have much more than a bucket-

independent shops, cafés and restaurants, adding to the

bewitched generations of families into returning year on year,

and villages. These picture perfect places are brimming with

unique offerings of Devon. Traditionally, farming, fishing and mining may be our staple industries, but many milestones

mark our illustrious heritage. The world’s oldest surviving

8 | The Devon Cook Book

and-spade trade. The county oozes the Devon magic that has come rain or shine.


Food & Drink Devon


Boringdon Hall CRAB SALAD

This really simple recipe tastes fantastic and looks impressive as a starter. Serve it with fresh crusty bread and some crisp gem lettuce. Preparation time: 30 minutes | Serves 4

Ingredients

Method

For the crab:

For the crab

200g picked and cooked white crab meat, all shell and cartilage removed 20g chives, chopped 1 lime, juiced Pinch of salt

For the curry mayonnaise: 60ml cooking oil

2 tbsp Madras curry powder 100g mayonnaise

40g Greek yoghurt Salt and pepper

Combine the crab, chives, lime juice and salt in a bowl and gently mix. For the curry mayonnaise

Heat the cooking oil and Madras curry powder together in a pan to 60°c, then let cool. Once cool, combine the curry oil with the mayonnaise and Greek yoghurt, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Mix until glossy and yellow. For the mango salsa

Mix together the mango and chilli. To serve

Arrange the crab on the plate as shown in the picture. Add the curry mayonnaise and mango salsa, and serve with crusty bread and gem lettuce.

For the mango salsa:

1 ripe mango, finely diced

1 red chilli, finely chopped To serve:

Crusty bread Gem lettuce

The Devon Cook Book | 11


Deliciously

DEVON Seasonal, organic and often-home grown - La Petite Bouchée is renowned for combining the very best from Devon’s larder with a generous helping of French elegance.

Since La Petite Bouchée arrived in its new home in

Caroline will source the best ingredients from their growing

overwhelmed by the incredible bounty available on their

scratch on the day. Less wastage, a smaller carbon footprint

Devon, owners Anita-Clare and Caroline Field have been doorstep – mouth-watering Devon Red Ruby Beef and

wonderful artisan cheeses, together with the plentiful fresh fish and seafood. There’s plenty of inspiration when it comes to designing the monthly menu.

The concept is simple and centres around the complete

dining experience. Always known for its different approach, La Petite Bouchée is a dining experience where you don’t

have to worry about several sittings, as once you’re in you can

relax and enjoy your evening. The whole idea is to recreate that memorable meal that you enjoyed whilst holidaying in

France, the one you still talk about ten years on! Many of the customers wax lyrical about how dining at La Petite Bouchée achieves exactly that.

You need to book your table in advance, order your food from the monthly changing menu, and then Anita-Clare and

12 | The Devon Cook Book

network of suppliers, and prepare the food to order, from and, above all, the absolute finest and freshest produce from around the county.

Demelza, the iconic Citroen HY camper van sits proudly

outside the now 20-cover restaurant, ready to welcome

customers and introduce them to a unique dining experience. Although sadly not used to dine in at present, there are plans to take her to special events, festivals and private parties from late spring 2018.

Seasonal vegetables are sourced locally or home grown, locally

farmed meats are from Burrow Farm, freshly caught fish and

shellfish from Devon Quality Fish, artisan cheeses from The Cheese Larder, local beer from Black Tor Brewery, cider and organic soft drinks from Ashridge Cider and carefully

selected wine from small vineyards in France. La Petite Bouchée serves up French flair with Devon provenance.


La Petite Bouchée


Johns of Instow DEVON CREAM TEA

The traditional way to serve a Devon cream tea is to slice your warm scones in half horizontally, place a lashing of clotted cream on the cut side of each scone and top with strawberry jam. Enjoy with a pot of your favourite tea! Preparation time: 15 minutes | Cooking time: 20 minutes | Makes 12

Ingredients

Method

670g self-raising flour

Line a baking tray with baking parchment and preheat the oven to 200°c.

210g chilled butter, chopped into small chunks 70g caster sugar, sieved 1⅔ tsp baking powder 285ml whole milk

Small free-range egg, beaten Clotted cream, to serve

Local or homemade strawberry jam, to serve

Put the flour, butter, caster sugar and baking powder into a large bowl. With your fingertips, lightly rub the butter into the dry ingredients until it resembles fine breadcrumbs. Make a well in the middle of the mix and add a little milk. Using a knife, bring the mix into the milk to combine the ingredients. Repeat this process approximately 3 times until the scone mix forms a soft but not sticky dough (see tip).

Turn the mix onto a lightly floured surface and gently knead for 1-2 minutes until smooth. Roll out the dough to a thickness of 3cm deep. Use a 7cm cutter to cut the scone rounds and place them onto the baking tray. Brush the beaten egg over the top of each scone and place in the oven. Reduce the oven temperature to 180°c and cook the scones for 12 minutes – set a timer! Reduce the temperature down to 150°c and cook for another 5 minutes. Remove the scones from the oven and allow to cool slightly.

Serve with local farmhouse clotted cream and the best strawberry jam you can find!

Tip: If your mix is too wet, simply mix in a tablespoon of sieved self-raising flour with a knife.

The Devon Cook Book | 15


Britannia @ The Beach MONKFISH CARBONARA

Carbonara is such a speedy and simple yet luxurious meal – the perfect indulgence for two. Using monkfish adds an extra dimension and great depth of flavour, as the fish is firm-textured and has been referred to as the poor man’s lobster! Preparation time: 5 minutes | Cooking time: 10 minutes | Serves 2

Ingredients

Method

200g mushrooms, sliced

Add the mushrooms, pancetta and monkfish to a hot pan with a knob of butter and a splash of olive oil. Fry until the pancetta starts to brown, then add cream to deglaze the pan and create a sauce. Allow this to simmer with a lid on for 5 minutes then remove from the heat. The monkfish will continue to cook in the residual heat from the pan and sauce.

75g pancetta lardons

400g monkfish fillet, sliced Knob of unsalted butter Olive oil

300ml single cream

200g fresh tagliatelle 50g washed spinach

1 lemon, cut into wedges 50g Parmesan, grated

Add the tagliatelle to a pan of salted, boiling water and cook until just under done (about 2 minutes) then drain. Place the pan with the sauce and monkfish in back on the heat, add the tagliatelle and spinach, toss the ingredients together and cook on a low heat for 2-3 minutes. This allows the tagliatelle to soak up the flavours from the sauce. To serve

Serve in a warm dish with a wedge of lemon and a sprinkle of grated Parmesan.

The Devon Cook Book | 17


Tasting

THE SEASONS The innovative concept behind Noel Corston’s multi-award-winning restaurant aims to reflect the immediate environment around them at any given moment in time – showcasing North Devon through the seasons.

When it comes to the words ‘seasonal’ and ‘local’, there is

the environment by helping them to understand the landscape

Corston. Guests at the ten-seater chef ’s counter enjoy hyper-

appears on the plates reflects the immediate environment

perhaps nowhere quite as dedicated as Restaurant Noel local ingredients that have been transformed with creativity and imagination into a seven or nine course taster menu.

around them. Hyper local ingredients are just that – what of the UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, and can even feature vegetables from regular customers’ allotments.

North Devon may not seem like the likeliest location for

While being firmly placed in North Devon, the seven or nine

Noel Corston, the village’s inspiring setting in the UNESCO

to Noel’s passion for the country where he met his wife Nora

this Michelin-listed restaurant, but for Woolacombe local Biosphere Reserve made it the perfect spot to promote the bounty of the surrounding landscape.

course set menu often contains a sunny hint of Mexico thanks

– think the tart taste and ruby red colour of hibiscus served with locally grown rhubarb.

The restaurant started life as The Courtyard, which Noel ran

People know exactly where they are when they dine there.

evolved, through a series of pop-ups, which quickly gathered

the exact point of the year. Noel’s food is a celebration of the

with his brother and parents for many years. The restaurant a string of accolades in the region, to Noel eventually bringing the kitchen into the restaurant itself and undertaking a

complete refurbishment. Now joined by his wife Nora, The

Courtyard became Restaurant Noel Corston in 2016, finally

delivering on the vision he had been working towards for the last 15 years.

Dining at the ten-seater counter is a culinary experience like

no other in North Devon. Noel’s aim is to connect people to

18 | The Devon Cook Book

Not just the county, but the specific area of North Devon and changing seasons as they impact on the ever-changing bounty of the land and the sea.

After 15 years, Noel Corston has established a platform to showcase the type of cooking he is passionate about. He

aims to continue responding to customers, being true to the ingredients and the stunning natural landscape of his home.


Noel Corston


Riverford Field Kitchen TOMATOES, PICKLED RED ONIONS, BLACKBERRIES & FRUIT VINEGAR This represents the last gasp of summer. The blackberries come into fruit just as the tomatoes are pushing past ripe in the polytunnels and the coriander has bolted into flower in the herb beds. This dish will appear only for about 3 weeks of the year, when all the elements are at their peak. You can make the vinegar in advance, as it keeps well, but if it seems a bit of a faff, you can substitute with a simple mix of vinegar and sugar. Preparation time: 30 minutes, plus overnight draining and 3 hours pickling | Serves 6

Ingredients

Method

For the fruit vinegar:

For the fruit vinegar

600g berries (blackberries, strawberries, raspberries or a mixture) 400ml cider vinegar Sugar, as needed

For the pickled red onions: 1 small red onion To serve:

1.5kg mixed tomatoes 200g blackberries Olive oil

Small bunch of mint Small bunch of dill

20g coriander flowers (or any edible flower) Salt and black pepper

This will make more than you need for this recipe, but it can be kept a few weeks in the fridge. Mash the fruit and vinegar into a soft pulp. Line a sieve with muslin cloth and sit it above a bowl. Fill the sieve with the fruit pulp, place it in the fridge and let the liquid drip out overnight. Measure the liquid and add 60g of sugar for every 100ml of liquid. Place it in a pan and simmer until all the sugar has dissolved. Bottle and store until needed. For the pickled red onions

Peel the onion and slice as thinly as possible. Place it in a shallow bowl with 100ml of the fruit vinegar. Season with a pinch of salt and mix together well. Leave for at least 3 hours, preferably overnight, turning every so often. (Alternatively, slice the onions and mix with 3 tbsp red wine vinegar and 1 tbsp golden caster sugar. Season and mix as above.) To serve

When ready to serve, cut the tomatoes into an interesting mixture of slices and wedges, whatever best shows off the shape and colour. Lay them out on a large serving plate. Scatter over the blackberries and pickled red onions. Season with salt and black pepper. Dress with olive oil and a few spoonfuls of the fruit vinegar. Roughly chop the mint and dill, and use it to artfully garnish the plate along with the coriander flowers.

The Devon Cook Book | 21


Fresh, frozen and

FRUITY

Fun family business Ollylolly creates fruity, fresh ice lollies – made with seasonal and local ingredients where possible – that can be enjoyed at local food markets or in the many stockists across Devon, Cornwall and now London who offer these refreshing, tasty treats. Ollylolly began with a cool idea on an unusually hot April

The small venture has brought something unique to Devon

husband Ollie had always fancied creating something of

London theatre-goers enjoying these luxury frozen treats too.

afternoon during a family bike ride. Mel Mackie and her

their own, influenced by childhoods that emphasised the

importance of good food – both socially and nutritionally – and keen to provide their three kids with the same valued

(and tasty) experience. They stumbled across that ‘something’ thanks to a fruitless search for a refreshing, natural treat on

their cycling day out, and decided to see if all natural, whole fruit ice lollies were what the people wanted.

and Cornwall, and its latest exciting development sees Ollylolly was approached by a well-known London theatre

after the theatre’s artistic director happened to try one of the ices on a summer holiday, leading to a wholesale order and

huge success with customers. Others have followed since, which has also extended the Ollylolly season by creating the

perfect environment for customers to enjoy autumnal editions of the ice lollies, such as Pear & Ginger and Spiced Orange.

Research and a bit of experimentation at home in Plymouth,

The quieter winter months are an ideal time for Mel and Ollie

Food Market that summer, convinced the whole family that

and three energetic kids. Despite the busy schedule, Mel says

followed by a sell-out run at the Royal William Yard’s Good

their delicious products were a hit. Two years on, Ollylolly

is still a regular at the RWY Good Food Market and enjoys meeting customers and trialling new flavours. It is also a wholesale supplier to a growing list of stockists, including

Rockfish restaurants who keep the treats on the menu all

year round. The ice lollies are all handmade, completely free from anything artificial, full of fresh fruit and other seasonal

ingredients sourced as locally and responsibly as possible, and packaged in ocean-safe, compostable wrappers – what’s not to love?

22 | The Devon Cook Book

to develop new flavours, alongside juggling work, the business she is “so lucky to work with fantastic foodie people in such

an amazing part of the country” and to combine her family life with fun, making treats for everyone that taste good and

do good. Ollylolly’s chief tasters – Layla, Ruben and Ava – certainly agree!


Ollylolly


Saunton Sands Hotel 21-DAY DRY-AGED CREEDY CARVER DUCK

A twist on “Peking Duck” using the classic combination of onions, cucumber and Chinese spices, this dish takes on more depth with the addition of dry-aging the whole duck for 21 days. For this dish, I use the wonderful free-range Creedy Carver ducks from Crediton Devon. Preparation time: 1 hour 30 minutes, plus 21 days to hang the duck | Cooking time: 1 hour | Serves 4

Ingredients

Method

For the duck: 1 Creedy Carver Duck 4 tsp salt 1 tsp saltpetre ½ tsp five-spice 200g duck fat 1 star anise ½ tsp ground coriander 1 orange, zested and juiced 10g ginger, finely chopped 60g tomato ketchup 30g each honey, soy sauce, plum sauce, hoisin sauce For the soy jus: 150g duck trimmings 100g each chopped carrot, shallot, leek 1 star anise ½ tsp each ground coriander, Szechuan pepper 50ml sherry vinegar 100ml Shaoxing rice wine 250ml veal stock 50ml soy sauce For accompaniments: 200g shallots 50g butter 100ml double cream 1 cucumber 100ml ginger beer 1 bunch spring onions 100g Roscoff onions Burnt onion powder, micro coriander, pak choi, spring onion oil, crispy pancake wrappers, peanuts, to serve

For the duck

Rub the duck with salt and saltpetre, and leave to hang in a refrigerator for 21 days. Trim the duck and remove the breasts and legs. Vacpac the breasts with the Chinese five-spice powder, then cook sous vide at 58˚c for 60 minutes. When you are ready to serve, pan-fry the breasts allowing the skin to become crispy.

Vacpac the legs with the duck fat, star anise and coriander, and cook at 82˚c for 12 hours. Remove from the vacpac and pick the meat. When required, deep-fry at 180˚c. Make the duck dressing by combining the orange and ginger in a pan, warm through, then allow to cool. Add the rest of the ingredients, then vacpac. Mix the picked duck legs with the dressing. For the soy jus

Sweat off duck trimmings in a pan until browned. Add the vegetables and spices, and cook for a further 4-5 minutes, then deglaze with the vinegar. Add rice wine and reduce, then add the veal stock and reduce to the correct consistency. Add soy sauce and pass through a sieve. For the accompaniments

To make an onion purée, cook down the shallots in the butter, add the double cream and blitz to a purée. To make the compressed cucumber, peel the cucumbers, cut in half and remove the seeds. Place into a vacpac bag with ginger beer and seal. Use a cook’s blowtorch to char the spring onions and Roscoff onions. To serve

Plate up the duck breasts, the leg meat mixed with the dressing, the onion purée, charred spring onions, pickled onions and compressed cucumber. Add the burnt onion powder and the soy jus, and garnish with micro coriander, pak choi, spring onion oil, crispy pancake wrappers and peanuts.

The Devon Cook Book | 25


The Shops at Dartington PASSION CURD CAKE

This simple sponge cake was created by Barbara Peters from the Food Shop at Dartington. The cake is taken to new heights with a zingy passionfruit curd from Dartington and butter icing filling. Cut open a fresh passionfruit and dribble it over the top for extra wow factor. Preparation time: 20 minutes | Cooking time: 20 minutes | Serves 8

Ingredients

Method

For the cake:

For the cake

225g caster sugar 225g butter 4 large eggs

225g self-raising flour 2 tsp baking powder

Dash of good-quality vanilla extract For the butter icing: 225g butter

100g icing sugar 1-2 tsp milk

For the filling and decoration: Dartington passion fruit curd, for spreading 1 passionfruit (optional)

Preheat the oven to 180°c. Grease two 20cm sandwich cake tins.

Beat together the caster sugar and butter in a mixing bowl until pale and creamy. Beat the eggs in a separate bowl, then add them slowly to the sugar and butter mixture. If it starts to look like it is curdling, add a tablespoon of the flour. Fold in the remaining flour with the baking powder and add the vanila extract.

Divide the mixture between the two greased cake tins and level them off with a spatula. Place them in the oven for about 20 minutes or until the cake springs back when gently pressed and is golden brown. Leave to cool in the tins for 10 minutes, then turn out onto a wire rack to cool completely. For the butter icing

Put all the butter icing ingredients into a mixing bowl and beat together until smooth. For the filling and decoration

Take one of the cakes and spread a layer of passionfruit curd onto it. Add a thin layer of butter icing and top with the second cake. Decorate the top with a layer of passionfruit curd and pipe butter icing around the edge of the cake. Decorate with some fresh passionfruit pulp, if you like.

The Devon Cook Book | 27


Shining

STAR Creative, dynamic and passionate chef Thomas Carr has been awarded a Michelin star for his approach to fine dining in a relaxed and unpretentious environment – welcome to Thomas Carr @ The Olive Room.

Thomas Carr is well known in the culinary world for the

It was in the summer of 2014 that Thomas was able to realise a

on nurturing a dynamic and creative environment where chefs

its doors. The town of Ilfracombe was the perfect setting for

consistent high standards of his cooking. He prides himself can experiment with ingredients, flavours and techniques, allowing him and his team to push the boundaries of food.

This approach has not only seen him exceed the expectations

of customers time and time again, but it has also led to

lifelong ambition – Thomas Carr @ The Olive Room opened

his first restaurant. The beautiful landscape gives Thomas

access to the very finest local and seasonal ingredients, and he certainly makes the most of the bounty that North Devon offers.

Thomas Carr @ The Olive Room receiving three AA rosettes,

September 2016 will forever be a special memory for Thomas.

this for the Michelin 2018 guide.

always dream of – a call from the Editor of the Michelin

in addition to a coveted Michelin star in 2017, and retaining

Thomas’ journey started in 2002 as a chef at the Beachcomber Café in his home town of Woolacombe. From there, Thomas

It was the month that he received the phone call that chefs Guide, asking him to attend the first-ever live presentation of the guide.

progressed through various Devon and Cornwall restaurants

For Thomas, being awarded a Michelin star was a lifelong

at his Seafood and Grill Restaurant, and was then promoted

And this kind of recognition and the publicity that comes

until he became head chef under renowned Nathan Outlaw to the fine dining head chef at Nathan’s St Enodoc Hotel in Cornwall. Under Thomas’ leadership, the hotel restaurant received two Michelin stars, along with numerous other accolades. Thomas then took on the position of executive chef

at The Coach House, Kentisbury Grange, having opened the

restaurant himself, and received two AA rosettes within the first year.

28 | The Devon Cook Book

goal: “It was the most incredible day, really a dream come true. with it, enables me and the team to keep doing what we love, which is amazing.”


Thomas Carr @ The Olive Room


From Barnstaple to Brixham and Tavistock to Torquay ... Devon has it all. There’s so much more to Devon than cream teas and fish & chips – although both of these treats are hard to beat! From Michelin-starred dining to organic fruit and veg, the unparalleled coastline and rolling hills of Devon offer a colourful palette of culinary delights. Sensational seafood, coffee and cakes, fine cheese, crisp cider and succulent meats can all be found and enjoyed locally, while stunning views over harbours, picturesque beaches and lush countryside provide the perfect backdrop to all the fantastic food and drink this unique landscape has to offer. We are proud to present the best of Devon’s producers, restaurateurs, shop owners and foodies to you in this book, which lets you dive right in to the mouth-watering dishes and heart-warming stories behind their success and passion for their craft. Get stuck in!

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The Devon Cook Book *Sample*  

A sample of our Devon Cook Book by Meze Publishing Limited

The Devon Cook Book *Sample*  

A sample of our Devon Cook Book by Meze Publishing Limited