Runway Magazine

RUNWAY AUTUMN 2017 USA ISSUE27

FACE PAINT THE STORY OF MAKEUP

BEHIND THE COVER KENDALL’S ADVENTURES IN WONDERLAND

BEHIND THE SCENES PAPER MAKEUP

RUNWAY TENDENCIES

SERGELUTENS THE BEAUTY PIONEERS

RUNWAY

FACE PAINT

August

THE STORY OF MAKEUP - BEHIND THE COVER

Give Me

LIBERTY

CHAOS THEORY, DESIGNERS ARE LEARNING INTO THE FUTURE WITH DYNAMIC FASHION THAT SPEAKS OF FUN AND FREEDOM. PHOTOGRAPHED BY CRAIG McDEAN

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The Story Of Makeup -Behind the cover

A New Form Of Expression -The Finest Art

Behind The Scenes

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FacePaint

From The Club To The Catwalk Rewind To The Eighties -80’s Exhibition

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PaperMakeup

Serge Lutens

The Beauty Pioneers -Iconic Beauty Visionaries

Kendal’s Adventures In Wonderland

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“A book about the history of makeup, is something I’ve always wanted to write” - Lisa Eldridge

t’s been a very long, intense and at times exhausting journey, so I was excited but also really nervous about unveiling the cover. Since then I’ve been overwhelmed by all the lovely posts and comments, so a BIG thank you to everyone who has taken the time to repost and share. As I said in my newsletter, what began as a hobby and a passion continued to grow as I connected with you all on my site - you helped me to realise that it’s not just me who loves learning about the history of lipstick, powder and eye shadow, so this book is for YOU! As you can imagine, getting the cover right

was a very long and tricky process. It needed to represent thousands of years of painterly history, capturing the textures, the powders, the paints - but at the same time I wanted it to look modern and striking. It was shot quickly during last fashion week when I realised I didn’t have the right cover yet and time was running out. For the makeup I mixed up something similar to the makeup base worn by the women of ancient Greece and China (without the poisonous element of course!) and then layered a mixture of ancient (natural) and modern (synthetic), brightly coloured pigments on top.

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PAPER MAKE-UP!

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“Whatever your age or experience with the decade of decadence, if you live in London or are visiting anytime you must check out the V&A Museum’s latest exhibition, From Club to Catwalk.”

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ont worry, I’m not suggesting you start shopping for make-up in your local stationery store (can you imagine!) but thats exactly what I did for this editorial shoot for the latest issue of Dansk Magazine. Doing nothing more than prepping the skin with a flawless base and the occasional statement lip, I made-up our model using only bespoke paper makeup (even the eyelashes!). All I needed was a good set of scissors, lots of coloured paper and a few paperclips. Each look was tested beforehand on my dearly loved studio model June (more about her coming soon on my Pinterest!).

FROM CLUB TO CATWALK

REWIND TO THE EIGHTIES

“Whatever your age or experience with the decade of decadence, if you live in London or are visiting anytime you must check out the V&A Museum’s latest exhibition, From Club to Catwalk.”

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here was nothing subtle about the 80s. It was all about power, passion and politics, sprinkled with heaps of inventiveness and rule-breaking – and of course, the obligatory big hair! Even if you’re not a fan of the styles or sounds, you can’t deny the impact that British designers such as John Galliano, Vivienne Westwood, Paul Smith, Pam Hogg, Stephen Jones, Bodymap and Katherine Hamnett have had. The exhibition includes some rare photographs, sketches and designs, as well as dressed mannequins,

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that give a real behind-the-scenes look at the influences and inspirations of some of the most recognisable and iconic looks.

As well as key fashion designers, the exhibition features bands like Spandau Ballet, Duran Duran and figures such as Boy George – who all had a massive influence on makeup and fashion at the time – through film footage and video clips. It also pays hommage to the graphic designers and photographers who created ground breaking imagery and publications including The Face, Blitz and i-D magazine which have become cultural icons.

THE BEAUTY PIONEERS

SERGE LUTENS Makeup artist, photographer, art director, filmmaker, perfumer… it’s hard to define Serge Lutens, but true to say that he’s one of the most iconic beauty visionaries of our time, with an incredibly powerful and provocative style. He’s also someone I’ve greatly admired and looked up to throughout my career, and I followed in his footsteps working as a creative director for beauty mecca Shiseido. wBorn in Lille, Northern France in 1942, Serge started working at a salon in his teens, allegedly against his will - though it allowed him to begin to cultivate his beauty style and spend time photographing his clients and friends. In 1962, after serving in the Algerian war, a 20 year old Serge relocated to Paris and approached Vogue Paris editor, Edmonde Charles-Roux, with his portfolio - three days later, he collaborated with them on their Christmas issue. Talk about a fast mover! After that, his style, versatility and creative vision quickly

caught the attention of the entire fashion industry and he began to work for titles including Elle, Le Jardin des Modes and Harper’s Bazaar, alongside the great photographers of the time, Richard Avedon, Guy Bourdin, Helmut Newton and Irving Penn.

Serge’s first big job in product development came in 1967 when he was approached by Christian Dior.

Dior had previously produced a small run of limited edition lipsticks in 1950, before their first full range, Rouge Dior, in 1953. They were also the first European couture house to produce a range of nail polish in 1962, however, towards the end of the sixties, Dior’s makeup line started to become a little staid - hence the appointment of Serge. Despite the

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THE BEAUTY PIONEERS fact that he was just 24 at the time, and very much a ‘new star’ on the scene, the result was a blockbuster hit. In fact in 1974 Diana Vreeland, the legendary editor-in-chief of US Vogue, declared his work the ‘revolution of makeup!’ In an interview with Serge who, when asked ‘what did she mean by this?’, said…

“That women were being held captive by shapes and techniques, and that makeup was taking advantage of their obsessive fear of being themselves: ‘If you have a square chin, put blush on your jawbones; if your eyes are too small, etc.’ An entirely ridiculous conception of perfection! By creating new makeup colours, I was changing women’s attitudes. At the time it was like burning bras along with all of society’s norms. The United States immediately adopted my vision… When Diana Vreeland published this article, she declared colour like world leaders declare war. As for me, I was playing exactly the role I set out to play.” Love!!

In 1980, apparently tired of ‘being labelled Monsieur Dior’, Serge approached Japanese beauty company Shiseido who, at the time, were huge in Japan but relatively unknown on the international scene. With Serge designing packaging, creating products, marketing and developing the business, Shiseido quickly developed a powerful visual identity and became one of the most dominant beauty brands of the 80s and 90s.

“Women were being held captive by shapes and techniques, anda that makeup was taking advantage of their obsessive fear of being themselves (...) an entirely ridiculous conception of perfection!”

Serge also created his first fragrance, Nombre Noir, with Shiseido in 1982. A decade later in the early 90s, he opened his own fragrance boutique, Les Salons de Palais Royal, which stocked his eponymous fragrance line.Then in 2004, after four decades of industry trailblazing, the Serge Lutens makeup line was born - a small capsule collection of truly fantastic products, many of which I have in my kit.

Serge now lives in Marrakesh and is still very much at the forefront of his brand, creating fragrances and products.

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KENDALL’SIN WONDERLAND ADVENTURES BEHIND THE SCENES

I’m always excited when I get to work on shoots that are a real ‘production’, like this one I did for the December issue of American Vogue. The shoot was in collaboration with the National Theatre in London to celebrate the opening of their new musical, wonder.land - a hypermodernised and visually extravagant take on Lewis Carroll’s classic story, Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland.

There was an incredible team working on the shoot - wonderful photographers Mert & Marcus, fashion legend Grace Coddington, and beautiful Kendall Jenner starring as our modern day Alice. We were also joined by some of the cast of wonder.land - iconic characters like the Caterpillar, White Rabbit, Cheshire Cat and Tweedledum and Tweedledee, donned in their spectacular costumes designed by Katrina Lindsay.

The promotional wonder.land imagery I’d seen was saturated with bright, neon colour, but for the makeup on the shoot we decided to create a dark, grungy, glossy eye, teamed with flawless skin, nude lips and Kendall’s naturally bold brows.

I was really happy when I saw the images, I thought that Kendall looked amazing (and almost unrecognisable as a platinum blonde!) and the wonder.land cast looked so cool - the costumes alone were enough to make me want to go and see the show!

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