ISSUE NO. 2_10 dollars
UNITING CREATORS AND CONSUMERS OF FASHION IN INDIANAPOLIS
y d boork
+ CONVERSATIONS WITH BRITTANY MASON, ABBY GARDNER, ANTON BABICH, HAROLD LEE MILLER, DANISHA GREENE AND MORE
WALL PAPER BY WALL AND DECO CHAIR BY KARTELL THE ENTIRE COLLECTION CAN BE SEEN AT
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â€œArtistry and fashion are the heart of individuality.â€? â€“ Robb Dubre', Kenra ProfessionalÂŽ Artistic Director Artistry influences our lives daily. Fashion colors the way we view our world. They reflect how we interact with our community. At Kenra ProfessionalÂŽ, we create tools that can conjure even the smallest spark in every one of us. Our passion is built around giving individuals trust and confidence in their personal style.
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From humble beginnings. This past July, the Indianapolis Museum of Art opened its doors to Pattern. The members of Pattern and The Fashion Arts Society joined forces to co-host an evening of networking and education. Our very lively and stylish group had an opportunity to tour a special exhibit of legendary Hoosier designers: Blass, Norell, Halston and Sprouse. But, the best part of the evening for me was being able to partake in connecting people: designers, photographers, stylists, collectors, bloggers, boutique owners, model agency directors, and fashion lovers all mingling and participating. A lovely sight, indeed! The IMA was just one of many local venues that have generously hosted Pattern meetups, but the location held a special significance for me. One of my first fashion shoots took place there. I did not know it then, but that day I began falling in love with this city, and its people. The crew consisted of myself, my dad, Vlad, who doubled as my assistant, makeup artist Misty al-Eryani, and a beautiful local model named Ashleigh. Ashleigh had recently shaved her head, and Misty proceeded to cover it with bright green makeup. While the cosmetics were being applied, I managed to convince Katie Zarich, who had signed off on me shooting in the lobby of the museum, that I was trustworthy enough to shoot in The Toby, which at the time was undergoing a massive renovation—rows of seats torn out, the stage bare and dusty from construction. While waiting for Misty to finish with makeup, I spotted a fantastical looking red chair in the gift store, and asked Katie to put in a good word for me with the manager. She obliged. Before long, I was clicking the shutter like mad, Ashleigh perched on the avant-garde chair like some magical bird of paradise. It was the first time that I felt like a real fashion photographer. That day, I experienced one of the reasons why Indianapolis is a city that has gone from good to great, and just keeps getting better. It’s the people! They are friendly and lack the indifferent skepticism that emanates from those who’ve lived in a big city for too long. Sure, there are no mountain ranges, and our public transit system could use some help, but can you think of another metropolis where their world-class art museum shares resources with an unknown creative with no budget? Me neither. Bottom-line? If you seek it out, it’s entirely possible to live here and enjoy a life that is socially, culturally and creatively rewarding. I can’t imagine finding a community that’s as cohesive, driven, qualified, and down-to-earth as the folks that I’ve had the pleasure of interacting with over the past half decade. And, each monthly meetup is a delight as I get to meet new people who get “it.” Had you told me the day of that shoot that I would be co-hosting an event that involved not one, but two vibrant and growing fashion and textile-focused organizations, I would have looked at you with no small measure of disbelief. Had you told me that I would be editor-in-chief of a fashion publication, I would have started to back away slowly. It blows me away to think how much has happened in such a short time. So here, back by popular demand, is our second issue of Pattern magazine. We had no trouble finding talent to feature, and fashion-centric stories to talk about. In fact, the opposite is true. We had to turn people away, which was heartbreaking, but also unavoidable and a little exciting. It’s gratifying to know that so many people really want to be a part of our effort. We owe much gratitude to our supporters and sponsors who have given us ample encouragement, both verbal and fiscal. Thank you for allowing us to put something together that does justice to all the talented and amazing people in the local fashion industry who dare to call Indianapolis “home.” Our goal is to continue providing this community with a publication that highlights the best of Indy’s textile and fashion industry, and supports our mission to build a strong fashion community through our monthly meet-ups. A special thank you to my editorial team, Janneane, Benjamin, Nikki, Sean, and Kathy, and to Howie and his team at Mignone Communications – without your passion, enthusiasm, and plain old insanity, this project could have never happened. You guys rock!
EDITOR IN CHIEF Polina Osherov
FASHION/BEAUTY DIRECTOR Nikki Sutton
DESIGN DIRECTOR Kathy Davis
SENIOR EDITOR Janneane Blevins
FEATURES EDITOR Benjamin Blevins
SENIOR COPY EDITOR Sean P. Dougherty
DESIGN INTERN Cara Tudor
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Jenny Banner Janneane Blevins Maggie Conner Maria Dickman Adrian Kendrick Savannah Norris Polina Osherov Aaron Renn Petra Slinkard Brittany Street Nikki Sutton
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Esther Boston Gaby Cheikh Devon Ginn Katie Moon Polina Osherov Rebecca Shehorn Stephen Simonetto Malory Talty Anna Ziemniak
CONTRIBUTING STYLISTS Benjamin Blevins Janneane Blevins Devon Ginn Latham Hawkins Kelly Kruthaupt Katie Marple Nikki Sutton
INTERNS Maria Dickman Chloe Kent Brittany Street Published by Pattern Uniting & Growing creators and consumers of fashion in Indianapolis www.patternindy.com For more information, email firstname.lastname@example.org © 2012 Pattern. All rights reserved. The material of this magazine may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with the prior written permission of Pattern. All photography rights belong to each individual photographer.
A SPECIAL THANKS TO: KA+A for creating a vision and brand for Pattern. Jill Ditmire, Michael Kaufman, John Beeler, Molly Chavers, Michael Huber, Mark Fisher, Denver Hutt, Jeremiah Williams, Krista Skidmore, Samantha Julka, Ian Stikeleather, Kenan Farrell, Catherine Fritsch, Pauline Moffatt and Petra Slinkard for supporting us as we grow. LModelz, Helen Wells Agency and Heyman Talent for providing models for our shoots. 8
PATTERN ISSUE NO. 2
CONTENTS PATTERN ISSUE NO. 2 patternindy.com
PROJECT IMA, IN:SPIRED, 24
PLAY ON PATTERN, 14
By Petra Slinkard
Q+A WITH BRITTANY MASON: MODEL, 26 HIGH FASHION, HIGH TECH, 40 By Janneane Blevins
ANTON BABICH: DESIGNER, 46 MAKE BELIEVERS, 48 By Savannah Norris
THEIRS, YOURS, THEIRS, 64 By Maggie Conner
Q+A WITH HAROLD MILLER: PHOTOGRAPHER, 70
Photographed by Mallory Talty
SPIRIT ANIMAL, 30 Photographed by Polina Osherov
SHADOW PLAY, 50 Photographed by Polina Osherov
(WO)MENSWEAR, 78 Photographed by Rebecca Shehorn
WEIGHT OF WHIMSY, 90 Photographed by Katie Moon
HEIST & SEEK, 102 Photographed by Devon Ginn
BLANK CANVAS, 72 FASHION FOR A GROWING CITY, 86 By Brittany Street
Q+A WITH DANISHA GREENE: STYLIST, 88 MIDWESTERN MAGAZINE GIRL, 98 By Jenny Banner
FASHION MALL REHAB, 100 OP-ED, 110 By Aaron Renn
SHADOW PLAY, 50 Photographed by Polina Osherov
CO NT RIB uTOR S
StyliSt & Writer
phOtOGrapher & StyliSt
Maggie Conner is an avid fashion fanatic and style blogger for the haute hoosier. She attended the Fashion institute of technology in nyC before graduating from indiana University with a journalism degree in 2009.
i am a self-taught, freelance photographer and filmmaker with a genuine love for indy’s ever-emerging fashion scene. the human form and how clothing can transform perspectives inspires me beyond all reason. it is beautiful how a gentleman clad in a Dolce & Gabbana suit can strip away his lofty attire in place of a tall-tee and baggy trousers. Same man, different sartorial palate— clothing can mold a person, and capturing the many shifts that occur in fashion is what i live for.
WROTE MIDWESTERN MAGAZINE GIRL, PAGE 98 Jenny Banner is a hard working mother of three girls and continues to be amazed at the reinvention of her hometown of indianapolis. Whether she’s working for her husband’s local web design firm, managing hr for a company, or attending events in the community, she is always acutely aware that every individual has a one-of-a-kind story to tell and she is a keen listener. She began her career in print at NUVO newsweekly, as a sales person and later launched a bi-weekly music review column in 1999. as an english major, she enjoys wellwritten and informative stories in any format, with a strong bend toward the glossy magazine. her addiction to the fine mix of fashion photography and witty writing started as a teen with Sassy magazine, and a slight obsession with Jane pratt. to help preserve and encourage the art of letter writing, she recently launched a web application that collects mailing addresses: addyMe.com. this issue, she had the pleasure of interviewing an indianapolis native who has conquered the competitive fashion editorial world.
WROTE HIGH FASHION, HIGH TECH, PAGE 34; STYLED (WO)MENSWEAR, PAGE 78 Janneane is a project & community manager at Ka+a, a brand & service design consultancy. She co-founded IndySpectator, an online urban magazine, and is editor of the Observed & Overheard. Back when pattern was just a name and an idea, Janneane’s pragmatic idealism helped make this community a reality. through guiding the launch of pattern paper’s debut issue (and opportunities to style shoots for the magazine, website and the indianapolis Star), Janneane has been able to actualize her lifelong fascination with fashion’s selfliberating potential. She loves the French new Wave and kohlrimmed eyes, and adores Charlotte Gainsbourg and Coco Chanel. never satisfied with merely echoing what’s been done before, Janneane is constantly searching for that next sartorial twist in the fabric of fashion history. about.me/janneane
phOtOGrapher BENJAMIN BLEVINS
Writer & StyliSt
STYLED (WO)MENSWEAR, PAGE 78 Benjamin runs and leads IndySpectator, an online urban magazine, and is the content strategist at indyhub. last fall, he had the opportunity to help found the community that would become pattern. he has enjoyed styling shoots, editing pattern paper, and participating in an ever-evolving community of fashion-loving hoosiers. Benjamin is a writer, voracious reader, and passionate (over-)thinker. For the better part of the last decade, he has intermittently immersed himself in the world of international fashion (initially, through obsessive studying of hedi Slimane’s work, and, most recently, visiting paris during Fashion Week). Fashion, as an artistic endeavor and cultural marker, has always fascinated him. Omnivorously curious, Ben is slowly learning how to apply what he’s learned about the arts (and the communities that facilitate their growth) to reality. now, as a part of pattern, he is involved in a burgeoning community that seeks to integrate indy’s fashion-visionaries into our city’s creative class.
PHOTOGRAPHED BLANK CANVAS, PAGE 66 esther grew up in a typical small hoosier town with little more to do than dream. Being a creative person with ambition, photography became the best way to express herself. it opened up a world of possibilities that she would never have thought of. after obtaining a BFa in photography at herron School of art and Design and working alongside some of her favorite photographers, she knew it was time to pursue her own enterprise. estherboston.com
PHOTOGRAPHED FASHION FOR A GROWING CITY, PAGE 86 indianapolis native, Gabrielle Cheikh, is a classically trained, professional commercial and portrait photographer. With an education in fine art photography, she has photographed in 6 different countries for many individuals, families, and businesses.
WROTE YOURS, THEIRS, YOURS, PAGE 54
When she’s not blogging or working full-time in a career totally unrelated to fashion, Maggie throws fashion-themed parties and endlessly obsesses over the latest runway trends. She absolutely adores indy and all that it has to offer, especially Broad ripple boutiques and the downtown dining scene. thehautehoosier.blogspot.com
DESIGNED PATTERN PAPER, PAGES 1-112 Kathy is the art director for Columbus Monthly Magazine, in Columbus, Ohio, currently developing a redesign to launch in 2013. She earned a BFa from Columbus College of art and Design (a Buckeye to the core). With a background in publishing, beginning at Indianapolis Monthly, Kathy has worked with race car drivers, pro athletes, chefs and models in locations from ny to la. her personal favorite: “Shooting sports fashion on Mt hood in Oregon. Our crew had to take a snow cat to get to the lodge, and they filmed a few scenes there, for the movie, ‘the Shining’, a classic.” kathydavisdesign.com
intern & Writer
WROTE ANTON BABICH, PAGE 42 Maria Dickman is an indy native and recent graduate of Depauw University. When she’s not obsessing over Zara’s new line, trying to find a job, or stalking nyMag’s blogs, she’s plotting her next trip or indulging in a pint with some friends at the local breweries. She loves anything from Marc Jacobs, rebecca taylor, Moschino, & all Saints. in the future, Maria hopes to find a job doing public relations for a fashion or lifestyle brand before opening her own boutique.
PHOTOGRAPHED & STYLED HEIST & SEEK, PAGE 102
paroisse de Bienville (Bienvill parish, louisiana) is the location in which the famed Bonnie & Clyde were killed. i titled this series paroisse de Bienville with the confidence that a modern-day Bonnie & Clyde would posses the knowledge, dexterity and resources to keep from being slain—and look incredible in the process. i’ve always wanted to take an antiquated story with a tragic ending & revamp it to fit a modern-day saga. poet, photographer, Film Maker, innovator, artist. Services rep for the arts Council of indianapolis. Gallery Coordinator for Gallery 924. devonginn.com
STYLED PLAY ON PATTERN, PAGE 10 latham hawkins, an indianapolis native, is an up and coming fashion stylist who believes that personal style is not just expressed through fashion choices, but embraced and lived out boldly on the runway of life. after years of work and observation in the US retail environment, he is committed to all areas in the fashion industry. in 2011, he had the privilege to work with veteran stylist Olori Swank and renaldo nehemiah and has since honed-in a knack for fresh ideas and flawless execution – as evident through his book and personal dress choices. latham exemplifies the mastery of pairing classics with trends in ways that highlight and bring new perspectives to traditional looks. latham strives to be on trend, and yet still, off the beaten path. Fashion is a personal truth that must be voiced clearly, uniquely and proudly. it is his passion and mission to help every individual find, articulate and free that truth. lathamhawkins.com
Writer GABRIELLE CHEIKH
WROTE Q&A WITH DANISHA GREENE, PAGE 88 i graduated from the University of indianapolis in 2010. i currently write for the indianapolis recorder newspaper and the indiana Minority Business Magazine. i am also the fashion and lifestyle blogger for my site, aK’s World. i’ve freelanced for several magazines including Kiwanis Magazine, indy parent, and Cincinnati parent. i also guest write for various sites. i love to laugh, try new foods, shop, attend church and spend time with my loved ones. life is what you make it – go conquer your dreams and be fabulous at the same time. aksworld.net
pattern ISSUE NO. 2
STYLED SPIRIT ANIMAL, PAGE 26 Kelly Kruthaupt [Crew-thop] was raised in a conservative river town, watching football and attending Catholic school. Once apparent the arts were an unlikely path, her interest in them flourished. She studied fine art and photography at antonelli College under andrea Milette. her interest in electronica music culture, photographing events and DJs for URB Magazine, led her from Chicago to San Francisco shortly after college. She made ends meet working at a UC Berkley photo lab – where she witnessed the migration of film to digital. Upon her return to the Midwest, her passion for expressive and poignant imagery met with the need for well-rounded stylists that could deliver fashion on a commercial scale. Kelly has styled for national and international brands such as US Bank, reebok, and Master Card. She’s styled for internet fashion boutiques rue la la and Smart Bargains. in 2011, Kelly graduated valedictorian with a degree in Fashion Merchandising from harrison. She enjoys traveling and window-shopping the displays in cities like Buenos aires, antwerp, and Milan. She’s never met a dog she didn’t like, and felt out of place only once, long ago, but doesn’t recall the details. Kelly will always approach art as a life-long challenge to test and explore; and she still watches football.
STYLED WEIGHT OF WHIMSY, PAGE 90 Drawing inspiration from vintage hollywood films and movie stills, Katie Marple creates story through fashion. She lends her creativity as wardrobe consultant and fashion stylist as well as her personal collection of unique and timeless pieces. She spends most of her time hunting for vintage “gems” to add to her collection. Katie has recently joined the FiDaMO photography team as a wardrobe stylist. after studying advertising and interior design at purdue, Katie dabbled in visual merchandising. She has since worked in the beauty industry for over six years.
Starting this fall i will be selling my hand picked vintage and thrifted collection, Flaxen Fatale, at redemption Boutique in Broad ripple. Most of the vintage items are in their original condition, but some have been reworked and altered. the collection reflects what is coming back around in fashion today: lady like pieces, sheers, brocade, mixed prints, fur, colorful leather, and more! flaxenfatale.tumblr.com
CO NT RIB uTOR S
phOtOGrapher & Writer
WROTE Q&A WITH BRITTANY MASON, PAGE 22
PHOTOGRAPHED YOURS, THEIRS, YOURS, PAGE 54
StyliSt & Writer
Globetrotter. photographer. activist. Optimist. Student of life & culture. roots & Wings.
PHOTOGRAPHED SPIRIT ANIMAL, PAGE 26
Katie Moon, FiDaMO is an international professional photographer who specializes in music, fashion, and concept photography. Katie is passionate about organizing give back campaigns and is a visiting lecturer at purdue University.
PHOTOGRAPHED SHADOW PLAY, PAGE 46
i feel so blessed to be working in a field that i truly love. My goal has always been to create something that is different and beautiful in everything i do. photography encompasses everything i do. i never stop the learning process. it is my goal to improve my work with every project i complete.
PHOTOGRAPHED WEIGHT OF WHIMSY, PAGE 90
if there is one thing i hope to accomplish, it would be to give back to the creative and cultural landscapes of our time, to inspire others, and to be inspired by them in return.
polina Osherov is an indianapolis based commercial photographer, specializing in fashion and portraiture. When asked why she likes to shoot fashion, she answered: “i love the collaborative nature – creative people coming together to make something beautiful. the sky is the limit!” polinaosherov.com
i am constantly looking at the world around me for inspiration. i love writing down all the random ideas that pop into my head, whether i am at the store or just woke up from a dream. in the end, i am just a goofy guy who loves what he does and couldn’t imagine doing anything else!
STYLED SHADOW PLAY, PAGE 46; WROTE Q&A WITH HAROLD MILLER, PAGE 64 nikki is the owner of leVel, an interior design studio that specializes in contemporary interiors for both residential and commercial environments. in 2008, she launched "nikki Sutton Style," specializing in photography and wardrobe styling for commercial photographers. an advocate of design awareness and appreciation, Ms. Sutton has served on the board of the Design arts Society at the indianapolis Museum of art and as one of the founders and committee chairs for pattern. levelinterior.com
AARON M. RENN SAVANNAH NORRIS
StyliSt & Writer
WROTE MAKE BELIEVERS, PAGE 44 Savannah has worked on numerous photo shoots, alternating between stylist, set design, and art director, as well as assistant work under stylist nikki Sutton on local and national advertisements. a fashion design major at the art institute of indianapolis and intern in the costume shop at the indiana repertory theatre, Savannah has professional training in design, construction, and tailoring of couture and costume garments. a member of pattern since the beginning, Savannah has stayed active in the fashion community around indianapolis, helping with the organization of events such as Midwest Fashion Week and writing articles for pattern paper. Savannah also uses her design skills as a web and graphic designer, and has designed websites for local businesses such as the hinge building in Fountain Square, and created numerous logos, presentations, and displays for various clients. projectsee.wordpress.com
WROTE OP-ED, PAGE 110 aaron M. renn is an urban analyst, consultant, and writer whose work appears at the Urbanophile and elsewhere. a native of Southern indiana, he currently lives in providence, rhode island. urbanophile.com
PHOTOGRAPHED (WO)MENSWEAR, PAGE 78 i am a fashion/wedding photographer born and raised in the Circle City. i’ve discovered that the people i work with are saturated with talent and inspiration that keeps me wanting to shoot! From designers to hair stylists, make-up artists to models – everyone brings an element to the shoot that i never would have expected otherwise. this city is great because of the people who live here and are dedicated to seeing it grow. i’m so glad to be a part of such a flourishing city, and even more grateful to have pattern as an outlet for local fashion lovers like myself! rebeccashehorn.com
PHOTOGRAPHED PLAY ON PATTERN, PAGE 10
Mallory talty is an indianapolis/Chicagobased freelance photographer who is constantly searching for a story to tell through her lens. as a little girl her fondest memories include playing with her grandmother’s stereoscope as well as shopping for vintage ball gowns at Modern times in indianapolis. those memories are what fuel Mallory to create imagery that pays homage to the past. She has had the opportunity to shoot at Charleston Fashion Week and has been contracted with Google, refinery 29 and pulte homes. Mallory is addicted to picking up a camera and is determined to create incredible images that help add to the growing indianapolis art and fashion scene.
intern & Writer
WROTE PROJECT IMA IN:SPIRED, PAGE 20 petra Slinkard is the Curatorial associate in the Department of textile and Fashion arts at the indianapolis Museum of art and an adjunct professor of Fashion Design and retail Management at the art institute of indianapolis. a graduate of indiana University, she serves on the board of the Midwest region of Costume Society of america, works closely with the iMa’s Fashion arts Society, and is an active member of pattern.
WROTE FASHION FOR A GROWING CITY, PAGE 86 Fashion connoisseur and freelance journalist, Brittany Street, is enjoying the excitement and experience of being a part of worlds, writing and fashion. as a member and event coordinator for the Society of professional Journalists of indiana and a contributing writer for the IUPUI Campus Citizen, she is an accomplished journalist and a daily style blogger. “Keep high heels and high hopes,” Street says is one of her favorite quotes to live by. “it’s a daily reminder to stay above the negative energy in the world and stay positive, oh yes, and keep high heels close by.” Born and raised in indianapolis, Street has had the pleasure to travel and study the cultures of many other countries, cities and islands that have left her with a well-rounded perspective on life and fashion, with a very bright future ahead.
aD DeSiGner Cara is a graphic designer and illustrator from “Funcie” Muncie, indiana, and is studying at the art institute of indianapolis. She has a passion for art and design and strives to improve her skills every day. Cara is laid back, but determined and do what it takes to get to where she wants to be. Cara hopes one day to be working as a designer on high-end fashion publications.
pattern ISSUE NO. 2
PHOTOGRAPHED HIGH FASHION, HIGH TECH, PAGE 34 My first taste of fashion was a pair of pajama shorts I made in my high school “textiles and clothing” class. I soon learned to make nearly an entire wardrobe, and if you would have asked me what I wanted to be, I would’ve told you with 100% certainty that I was going to be a fashion designer. My life as a teenage fashionista came to a screeching halt when my family relocated, and the new school offered photography rather than textile classes. And that’s how I found my calling. After graduation, I went on to Herron School of Art & Design, where I fell in love with the notion that I could create a different reality within the frame of my camera. Spending hours drooling over fashion magazines, I knew family portrait studios were not for me, so I started getting involved in the Indianapolis fashion scene and found that it was much larger (and friendlier) than I expected. I am forever grateful for the local photographers and creative professionals who have shown me the ropes, collaborated and helped me move towards the high profile fashion shoots of my dreams. annaziemniak.com
AARON M. RENN
Southwest Sweater by Polo Ralph Lauren at Saks Fifth Avenue. Waxed Denim Pants by Vince. Printed Socks at Urban Outfitters. Beaded High Tops by Marc Jacobs at Saks Fifth Avenue.
pattern issue no. 2
watch the video by Cassie Anies at http://vimeo.com/45375871
PhotographS BY Mallory Talty StyliNG BY Latham Hawkins Model: Archie Silapiruti Assistant: Maria Dickman Location COURTESY John Bragg Studio
pop // Play On Pattern //
Printed Button Down AT Nordstrom Rack. Floral Vest: Vintage. Suit Pants BY Leon Tailoring. Floral Loafers BY Doc Martens.
pattern issue no. 2
pattern issue no. 2
Printed Shirt: Vintage. Paisley Pants BY Zara. Floral Belt: Vintage. Snake Skin Loafers BY Prada AT Saks Fifth Avenue.
Double Breasted Tuxedo Jacket: Vintage. Henley BY Polo. Printed Silk Pocket Square BY Etro AT Saks Fifth Avenue. Polka Dot Trousers AT Forever 21. Pink Monochrome Loafers BY Doc Martenâ€™s.
pattern issue no. 2
All Pieces Vintage.
pattern issue no. 2
Southwest Sweater by Polo Ralph Lauren at Saks Fifth Avenue. Waxed Denim Pants by Vince. Printed Socks at Urban Outfitters. Beaded High Tops by Marc Jacobs at Saks Fifth Avenue.
Project IMA IN:SPIRED AN ASSEMBLY OF UP AND COMING DESIGNERS, ARTISTS, AND STYLISTS
Designer Catherine Fritsch walks the runway with two of her models from the 2010 Project IMA showcase.
text by petra SLINKARD + photographs COURTESY IMA The first IMA organized fashion show, Project IMA, debuted at the Indianapolis Museum of Art in 2008 on an idea and a shoestring. The concept was simple: Engage our community through fashion in order to promote the traveling exhibition, Breaking the Mode: Contemporary Fashion from the Permanent Collection, Los Angeles County Museum of Art. Therefore, it seemed fitting to draw from the community for participants. Having moved to Indianapolis nine months prior, I was completely unfamiliar with the local fashion scene. To remedy this, I scoured the Internet for local designers, and attended multiple fashion events to discover, much to my delight, a strong assembly of active up-and-coming designers, artists, and stylists. As a result, the Textile and Fashion Arts Department invited 16 designers to participate in what would become a unique show. Because promoting Breaking the Mode was paramount, we asked the designers to find their inspiration in the exhibition. Breaking the Mode featured “contemporary fashion which examined the work of designers, who challenged the canons of the body’s fashionable silhouette, revolutionized methods of garment construction, rejected the formulaic use of materials and techniques, and exploited new technology in textile production.” Each participating Project IMA designer had four months to examine the works on view, study the accompanying catalogue, and construct outrageously beautiful, irreverent, and glamorous designs. Not only were the pieces created by the 16 designers interesting, varied, and thought provoking, but the public’s response to the presentation was overwhelming. Because so many people attended the free show, we had to schedule an impromptu second show for all those who could not make it in the doors for the first round (we had reached capacity). There were even rumors that the amount of traffic flowing into the IMA’s parking lot temporarily shut down the intersection of 38th St and Michigan Road. The shows, which took place in Pulliam Great Hall to an audience of 1000, seemed to stimulate a sense of excitement within the city in regard to fashion. In 2010, we produced another show. We used the IMA’s exhibition, Body Unbound: Contemporary Couture from the IMA’s Permanent Collection as the stimulus, and opened the call for entries internationally. The response was exuberant. We asked participants to submit design proposals for one or two ensembles featuring uncanny silhouettes constructed of unexpected materials, and had over 50 people submit applications. We selected 40 of the best designs and -just like that- Project IMA: Fashion Unbound was in full swing. Two sold out shows took place in the IMA’s Tobias Theater to enthusiastic crowds. The concepts employed by the designers and the quality of pieces presented (almost 80 in total) were impressive. Jessica Wright, a local designer, made a dress from origami, which was later showcased at the Fountain Square boutique, IndySwank. Brooklyn-based designer Francis Stallings made evening gowns from plastic bags, while Margarita Mileva, an architect from New York, created a dress with her daughter, Iva, made entirely of rubber bands. Other participants, like Noblesville designer Catherine Fritsch, and Indianapolis designer Amanda Helmsing, drew inspiration from history. Most of the artists and designers who participated in the show, such as John Clark, Nikki Blaine, Gandalf Gavan, Nancy Todd, Jerry Lee Atwood, Beth Bennett, Joan Wyand and Jie-Euen Choi, continue to present their work nationally and internationally. For some, like Mileva, the rubber band dress created for Fashion Unbound became a prototype for pieces later exhibited at the Dam Stuhltrager Gallery in Berlin, and the World of Wearable Art competition in Wellington, New Zealand. The judges for the competition were IMA Fashion Arts Society President, Stephen Taylor; style guru and wife of former IMA director, Jacqueline B. Anderson; David Hochoy, Artistic Director of Dance Kaleidoscope; and Lisa Silhanek, former Director for Sponsorship Sales at IMG Fashion. After careful consideration, the Fashion Unbound judges awarded Jeremy B Hunt, an Indianapolis fashion student, the Elizabeth Kraft-Meek fashion design award for Best of Show. Hunt created a hoop-skirt and corset made of packing materials, card board, and plastic bubble wrap -his comment on recycling.
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This year, the Museum invited artists and fashion designers to submit original work for inclusion in what we hope will be a spectacular event: Project IMA, IN:spired. It is scheduled to take place in The Toby on Thursday, October 11, 2012. The theme borrows from works included in the IMA’s latest fashion exhibition, An American Legacy: Norell, Blass, Halston & Sprouse. The exhibit highlights the achievements of celebrated fashion designers Norman Norell, Bill Blass, Stephen Sprouse and Halston, all of whom hailed from Indiana. The first group exhibition devoted to these prolific designers features 51 garments drawn from the IMA’s comprehensive collection, augmented with major loans from the archives of Stephen Sprouse. Among the highlights are a Bill Blass evening gown created for the former first lady Nancy Reagan, a Norman Norell day dress worn by American actress Betty Furness while on camera during the 1960 Presidential convention, a 1972 evening dress designed by Halston based on Andy Warhol’s ‘flowers’ paintings, and a Sprouse designed Warhol-inspired camouflage dress popularized by rock star Debbie Harry. At the time this article goes to print, a few proposals for IN:spired have already been submitted. I’m sure that as submissions continue to roll in, we will be pleasantly surprised to see how the work of the four exceptional Indiana designers featured in An American Legacy will influence the work of the current generation. Project IMA, IN:spired will honor the work of Norman Norell, Bill Blass, Halston and Stephen Sprouse, as well as serve as a testament to their lasting impact on American style. ✂
331 Massachusetts Avenue, Indianapolis www.ballandbiscuit.com (@bnbindy)
brittany mason. model.
an embodiment of perseverance and compassion, brittany is much more than a pretty face. text + photographs by polina osherov Brittany Mason and I crossed paths in September of 2008, predictably, on a photo-shoot. I don’t remember who reached out to whom, but I do remember the stunning home in Old Northside that served as a backdrop to the shoot, and that those were the days before I met Nikki Sutton, which meant that it was Brittany who brought an array of gorgeous dresses. The shoot went off without a hitch. Brittany, statuesque, lovely, and already a complete pro, radiated the quiet confidence of someone comfortable in her own skin and focused on building a serious career after her yearlong reign as Miss Indiana. I would have liked to get her in front of my camera many more times, but a couple of days after our shoot, she was off to gallivant around the world, modeling and pursuing an array of charity work. Although Brittany spends the majority of her time working outside of Indiana, her family and friends continue to bring her back to her home state on a regular basis. When the editorial team began brainstorming for the best cover model to represent our sophomore issue, I knew right away that Brittany would be a perfect fit in more ways than one. Polina: How were you discovered? Brittany: It’s hard to really pinpoint when I was discovered. I was always drawn to the industry, and made the decision this is what I would do with my life when I was only 13 years old. It has taken me a long time to get to where I am now in my career. But I guess they say it takes seven years to make an overnight success! When I was 14, I entered a model search; an agency wanted to send me to Tokyo, but my parents said, “No way!” Then, when I was 16, I signed with an agency, and was sent to NYC to live in a model apartment with seven other girls. The agency turned out to be a flop, so I returned to Indiana to finish high school through homeschooling, and then entered a pageant after my dad persuaded me. I told my parents to enjoy it because I would never ever compete in a pageant again. Ironically, I actually ended up winning the state pageant (wearing a used bridesmaid dress, and an old swimsuit). I went on to compete at Nationals, won Nationals, and then traveled to Germany representing the USA against 52 other countries. I was 17 at the time, and finished in second place. That opened several opportunities. It was really the beginning of everything. My life totally changed in the space of only four months. Polina: What was the best thing about winning Miss Indiana USA? Brittany: Probably all of the people I got the opportunity to work with! I dedicated my year to working with students across the state of Indiana because I am a firm believer 26
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in giving back to the community. I did a lot of mentoring, and worked with all different size groups and ages of students. I focused on anti-bullying, promoting unity in the classroom, and encouraging kids to believe in themselves. I wanted to set an example that no matter who you are, where you are from, or what you do or do not have, all things are possible with faith, dedication, and perseverance. I also got an opportunity to dabble in politics! I have always admired Hillary Clinton. I publicly endorsed her for the Presidential Primaries in 2008, and went on tour with Chelsea Clinton to several town meetings, events, and schools. Eventually, I joined President Obama’s campaign. While working with the Democratic Party, I was honored to be invited to attend the Official Inauguration and several Presidential Balls in Washington, DC. It was an amazing experience and honor to be part of history! Polina: From following you via social media, I know that the last four years have been a whirlwind of travel for you. What’s been your most memorable trip? Where and why? Brittany: It’s so hard to pick just one! I did live in China for a little while, and if people think NYC is a shock...go to China! It is a completely different world! I worked in several cities but lived in Guangzhou, which is part of the Communist area of China. It was a very difficult adjustment, but I worked a ton, and my eyes were opened to so many different things that are going on in the world. It was difficult being cautious with certain things, and strange having all of my news censored. It definitely made me extremely grateful for the freedoms we have here in America. You don’t realize how good you have it until you travel. I also willingly ate the weirdest thing ever, a chicken foot!! My booker talked me into it. Polina: So, your family is still here in Indiana. When your modeling career took off and you started traveling so much, and ended up moving to NYC, did your parents give you any advice that you’ve since put to use? Brittany: They just always told me I could do it, if I really wanted it. I could do anything and be anything I set my mind to, and that is just what I believe. They were, of course, always worried whenever I was traveling alone as a teen. My mom would constantly say things like, “Lock your doors, look both ways before you cross the street, don’t walk around at night by yourself.” To this day, she still says all of those things every time we speak on the phone. (laughs) But I guess that is part of being a parent, making sure that your kids are safe. Someday, when I have my own, then I will really understand!
on brittany Black Formal Dress by Amy Kirchen. Shoes by Christian Louboutin. ring and earrings are Stylistâ€™s own.
Polina: I’ll vouch for that! What has been the most memorable job you have booked? Brittany: I’m going to have to say working on the 200th episode of Two and a Half Men! That was a great experience! The crew was so kind and, not to mention, hilarious! And I must say Ashton Kutcher is extremely motivating to talk to. He is also from the Midwest (Iowa), and has given me a lot of great advice on the industry and even just on life. He is so dedicated and focused when he is working. I am super excited for his upcoming film; it’s going to be huge! He is going to make an excellent Steve Jobs! It was an honor to be able to learn so much, and be a part of such a memorable episode of one of the highest rated television shows in America!
and The Model Alliance. In 2006, I traveled to Haiti and worked in a children’s shelter and hospital. My group came in contact with about 500 people a day suffering from all types of illnesses. One family made a bed for their mother, and carried her for almost 12 hours down from a mountain to come to the hospital where I worked for treatment. It was difficult taking care of so many sick people. There were often infants and small children who were severely malnourished, and did not have much of a chance to live. It really breaks my heart. I connected with the people in Haiti, and I have been trying to plan another trip before the end of this year. I’m way overdue for another trip. My goal is to organize something in the upcoming months to raise money and collect supplies to take there...I will keep you all posted! www.mohaiti.org
Polina: I’m super tempted to slip in a gossipy question about Mr. Kutcher here, but I will restrain myself. It’s not how we roll here at Pattern. So, let me ask something more practical: If a talented local model with all of the desirable attributes for runway/editorial work wants to make it in a bigger market, what advice would you give her?
Polina: You mentioned anti-bullying. This is a cause that’s near and dear to your heart, and something that you know a lot about first-hand.
Brittany: I would say go for it NOW in the bigger market! Do not wait, do not waste any time, and don’t make any excuses. Part of the reason it’s taken me so long to get to this level is because I was afraid that I didn’t have the money to survive moving to a bigger market. So, I kept waiting to save up enough money, but that never worked because unexpected expenses would constantly come up, and my savings account kept getting drained. Finally, I ended up just packing what I could in my car with $1,000 to my name for gas, hotels, and food, and drove across the country with my dog. If you really, REALLY want something, you find a way to make it work.
Brittany: Sure! I was severely bullied in school as anyone who attended Anderson High School when I did will remember. There were two specific girls that terrorized me incessantly. One was the “popular” Prom Queen, and the other girl made more serious threats against my life. They were older than me, and I did not know either of them until the bullying began. During homecoming, my photo, (with extremely inappropriate things drawn on it) was held up during an event in the auditorium. These girls got the entire Junior class chanting and pointing at me, screaming “You’re ugly! You’re ugly!” in front of the whole school. No one spoke up for me, or defended me- the sad and inexplicable power of peer pressure.
Polina: Hard work and a go-getter attitude are definitely cornerstones for any success story, but what else?
Polina: That sounds awful. Were there other instances? How long did the bullying go on, and did the school administration do anything??
Brittany: Learn everything you can about the business, and treat it as a business. I took a makeup class, a photography class, hairstyling workshops, and learned about marketing and web design...I have had to be my own manager, booker, publicist, accountant... the list goes on. If you really want to be a successful model you have to find every way to give yourself an advantage, and be prepared to make a lot of sacrifices. This industry attracts so many starry-eyed dreamers who just want to be famous. I’m sorry, but that just doesn’t cut it, especially if you want to be in it for the long haul, and make a meaningful career out of it. People are taken advantage of constantly. If you’re not smart about it, the industry will eat you up and spit you out.
Brittany: I was bullied daily for about two years until I left to NYC to model when I was 16. I had my car tires slashed, paint damage, my parents’ car tires slashed, house egged and TP’d, threats made on my life. I was followed, shoved, and called names. The scariest episode of all was when I woke up one morning to find naked Barbie dolls with their heads ripped off, and symbols written on their bodies (later the police identified them as voodoo markings), and red paint poured all over my parents’ yard and house. But at a meeting with the principal and my parents, the principal even suggested that I was making up a lot of the stuff that was being done to me...even though he’d been eyewitness to numerous occasions of me being harassed. I never understood why, but certainly these experiences made me very determined to do whatever I could to bring awareness to the issue of bullying.
Polina: Great advice! And so true about it being an incredibly tough industry to be a part of. You really need to have a thick skin. So, let’s say you’ve “made it,” now what? Brittany: If you do make it, stay true to who you are, never forget where you came from and what it took to get to the top. Also, realize it will not last forever. Try to find a balance, if you can, and be sure to plan for the future. Diversify. Polina: Speaking of diversification, you know something about that! You model, you act, and then there’s the charity work. Tell us a little bit about that. What is your favorite charity? Brittany: I am involved with several charities! I am a firm believer in giving back, and I believe we all have a purpose to fulfill. My favorite charities are ones where I can work with kids. I really like anti-bullying programs, Mission of HOPE Haiti, The NOH8 Campaign, 28
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Polina: I’m speechless, honestly. My only thought is that you’ve just brought new meaning to the phrase “What doesn’t kill you, makes you stronger,” because instead of letting that incredibly difficult time destroy and demoralize you, you’ve turned it into something very positive. Your presentation on bullying has touched literally tens of thousands of students! Really incredible!! Brittany: And probably the most unexpected, but great, thing to come out of that work was that one of the girls who bullied me heard about what I was doing, contacted me, and wanted to meet. Imagine coming face to face with your bully years later? So, we sat down and had lunch, and talked about everything. After all these years of not knowing, it
turns out she thought her boyfriend (to whom I did not even really speak in high school) had a crush on me. We cried together, and she apologized repeatedly during the conversation. I told her I had come to terms with everything and had already forgiven all of them years ago. We ended it with a hug. She is the only person from those days who has ever contacted me and apologized. I know it took a lot of courage for her to do that, and it speaks volumes about her character now.
experience. The program covers so many different areas; it was a bit overwhelming at times because I don’t have a law background at all. In fact, I was the only one accepted that was not a lawyer or current law student! But it was totally worth it. We learned a lot about trademarks, licensing, copyright laws, and international trade. We went over transcripts of specific lawsuits, workers’ rights, child labor, starting your own label, and the overall history and evolution of fashion. It was a great program, and I learned a lot!
Polina: A story like yours can be an incredibly powerful tool, and you’ve obviously been using your story well.
Polina: I’m overwhelmed just listening to you list all the different topics you guys covered! Hope you took good notes! Phew! And going into it with no law background? You are fearless!
Brittany: That’s my goal! I never want a child to ever feel alone or that they have no place to go. I know I didn’t experience all of that for nothing. I feel like I discovered my purpose by going through that incredibly difficult time. I made a promise to myself then, and I will always stand by it, to continue with my work raising awareness about bullying. If sharing my story helps just one child’s life, then all of what I experienced was worth it!
We’re just about to run of time, so I want to ask about something that’s near and dear to MY heart: The Indy fashion scene. What do you think? How are we doing? What would you like to see happen in the next few years?
Polina: For sure! Thanks for sharing all of that. You were recently asked to be a presenter at The Fashion Class, can you talk a little bit about what it was all about? Brittany: I was so excited when I was asked to be involved with The Fashion Class in NYC! It’s a really great summer camp for kids who want to be part of the fashion industry when they grow up. In the class, I spoke to them about the industry and my own experiences. They were so cute and had so many questions! I taught them how to walk on the runway, and pose for the camera. They had been designing outfits, and they even picked out their own fabric and sewed them themselves! So, at the end of class, we had a photo-shoot, and put on our own fashion show! It was so cute and something I will continue to be involved with when I am in NYC! Polina: That’s awesome!! Let me ask you about another pie you have your finger in. What’s the story behind Fashion Law Institute? What kind of things did you learn? Brittany: Fordham Law School in NYC is the first school in the country to offer a Fashion Law program. I wanted to attend so I could understand the legal side of the fashion industry better, (you know, always trying to give myself an extra edge!) and to help my work with The Model Alliance. Polina: The Model Alliance?? Girl!! How do you keep track of all these different groups? What are they all about? Brittany: (laughs) The Model Alliance is a non-profit organization that is working towards better working rights for models. A friend of mine, Sara Ziff, who is also a successful model, made a documentary called “Picture Me.” It’s available on Netflix, and I highly recommend watching it, as well as Girl Model Movie. In the film, she shows the reality of the industry, things that people do not know about, or do not talk about. It is an extremely unregulated industry, and what the film shows is shocking, but it is the truth. Like I said before, people are constantly taken advantage of. Especially young models that have no idea yet...there are a lot of things I want to see change.
Brittany: Well, first, I have to say I am so proud of how the local fashion scene has grown these past few years! I would love to see it continue to grow, and it would be incredible if Indianapolis would be recognized as the new midwestern city for fashion. I think that the Super Bowl set a great precedent of what’s possible. So many people raved about Indianapolis being the best Super Bowl host city they’d ever been to! If we can host huge events like the Super Bowl and the Indy 500, then surely with time and dedication, Indianapolis can become a central hub for fashion. There are some very talented people in Indiana, and I think the most important thing is it just takes working together as a community to evolve! Polina: Agreed! There’s no question that the local fashion community is growing bigger and stronger with each passing month. The energy and the enthusiasm are palpable. Our goal at Pattern is to continue cultivating and fostering this community until it reaches critical mass, and then things are going to get really exciting. I personally can’t wait! Okay, so here is the last question. It’s a bit of an old standby: What’s the biggest misconception that people have about models and modeling? Brittany: The biggest misconception about modeling, of course, is how glamorous it is! Don’t get me wrong, it is amazing- the opportunities and places I have been fortunate enough to visit through work...However, I am constantly living out of a suitcase. It can be very lonely at times, even though I am constantly meeting new people...I don’t have enough time with the people I love, which is extremely difficult. There was a time when I had all of my things in four different cities at once. Right now, I have not been “home” to my apartment in NYC in a month, and it looks like I may only be there for four days from now until October 2nd. That is literally three months out of a suitcase. You pretty much have to learn how to get by with the bare minimum. Figuring out how to get to jobs and castings in foreign cities where you do not know the language or have a means of transportation can also be very stressful. Polina: Brittany! So fantastic to get to know you a little bit more! Thanks for coming out for the cover shoot. We are proud and honored to have you as our cover girl! Brittany: You’re welcome and it’s my pleasure! ✂
Polina: I bet! So, it sounds like law might be in your future! Brittany: Not sure about that. (laughs) The Fashion Law program was a very interesting 29
spirit animal Photography by Polina Osherov Model: Brittany Mason Styling by Kelly Kruthaupt Hair by Phillip Salmon Make-up by Kathy Lynn Moberly Assistants: Esther Boston, Maria Dickman 30
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Custom Black Backless Top and Black Harem Pant by Nikki Blaine Couture. Architectural Black/Brown Shoes by Jeffrey Campbell. Earrings by Michael Kors. Cuff at Forever 21. watch the video by jeremiah nickerson at http://youtu.be/iERJSTZvLcA
Red Pant at JCrew. Necklace at BCBG. Belt by Betsey Johnson. Cuff, Collar and ring are Stylist’s own. Shoes are Model’s own
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Sequined Dress by Amy Kirchen. Earring at BCBG. Shoes by Christian Louboutin. Cuffs and socks, Stylistâ€™s own.
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Clutch by Nikki Blaine Couture and Kevin West Collaboration. Leather Shorts by Nikki Blaine Couture. Earrings at Macyâ€™s.
this page Burgundy Coat with fur sleeves and belt both at Burberry. GLoves and Tights, Stylistâ€™s own.
opposite page Blazer with brown lapel by Amy Kirchen. Necklace at Burberry. Earrings by Rachel Rachel Roy. Glasses at Urban Optic. Ring, Stylists own. Shoes, Modelâ€™s own.
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high fashion high tech Four startups that are bridging the fashion & tech industries.
text by janneane blevins + photographs by esther boston and anna ziemniak A decade ago, the ill-fated tech bubble burst and showered the world with highly talented, out-of-work whiz kids. It could be said that, unlike the tech bubble, the fashion bubble bursts every season, spewing forth an explosion of criticism, earnings reports, and demands for faster innovations. Over the past decade of tech-world recovery, these two ailing industries found each other, mutually comforting and catalyzing the other’s needs and goals.
When Fashion met Tech
With the introduction of the flash sale site Gilt Groupe in 2007, the fashion and tech worlds began to integrate. The online wizardry of Alexis Maybank met the sartorial savvy of Alexandra Wilkis Wilson, a marriage that seemed preordained by the fashion and tech gods (or by Gilt’s founder, Kevin Ryan who saw the market opportunity, and pulled the team together). Over the past five years, these industries have continued to replicate the success of this original story, coalescing and building off their shared successes. From that Gilt Groupe seedling sprouted a host of fashion-tech companies. Moda Operandi, The Fancy, Warby Parker, and BeachMint are recreating e-commerce, a U.S. market that Forrester Research Inc. estimates will reach $327 billion in 2016, up from $202 billion last year. Wearable devices like Nike FuelBand and Pebble are developing smart products with killer design. Linked to a service platform, these companies are delivering value long after the point of purchase and are maintaining extended engagement with their users. Social companies like Pinterest, Tumblr, & Svpply are exploding (or, to borrow some tech-world parlance: disrupting) the way we share, curate, and proliferate fashion trends. Lookk, Muuse, and Not Just a Label are allowing new design talent to connect directly with consumers and make-to-order, rather than handle the overhead cost of producing a collection en masse. Even a traditional fashion house like Burberry is not immune to tech’s sway. A model for high tech-fashion, Burberry’s Angela Ahrendts (a native Hoosier) is rolling out a comprehensive strategy that includes both social and digital platforms, as well as sophisticated back-end software.
Eric Tobias, igodigital Below: Eric advises startups to hire the best.Talent is just as important (if not more than) the product. On opposite page: The iGoDigital team whiteboarding and developing online retail solutions.
Indianapolis’ Tech Boom AND Foray into Fashion
Nearly 15 years ago, when IBM bought Software Artistry, Indianapolis experienced a surge in tech-related startups. That catalytic event led to the founding and funding of companies like Interactive Intelligence, Aprimo, Angie’s List, Exact Target, and countless others. Indy is definitely on the tech-world map. City leaders have primed our community with incentives for entrepreneurial growth; profits from successful exits have been plowed back into new companies as venture capital; incubators, meet-ups and co-working spots have provided a kinetic environment for new ideas; and universities are nurturing a diverse talent pool. Likewise, Indianapolis has not remained aloof to that fashion-tech marriage that occurred not too long ago. Companies like One Click Ventures, iGoDigital, My Best Friend’s Hair and Quipol have been integrating technology and fashion industry elements just as adeptly as their coastal counterparts.
iGoDigital Helping retailers create one-to-one relationships with their shoppers through product recommendations and guided selling experiences. Eric Tobias, President The boutique will always be an enthralling retail destination: their curated 41
industry collections and individualized service will continue to draw consumers through their doors. These shops provide an intimate experience for customers through knowledgeable associates that can help customers discover what’s new, find the right outfit for a special occasion, and suggest what might go well with a recent purchase. But, as boutiques increasingly move online, how can they maintain this element of discovery and personalization? Enter iGoDigital. Powered by their Customer Intelligence Engine, iGoDigital helps retailers create one-to-one relationships with their customers through customer preference profiles, observing behavior, and asking questions. iGoDigital’s solution helps retailers track and analyze an individual’s habits, and in realtime deliver a recommendation that takes into account the trends and patterns of similar customers. Taste is an evolution, and with fashion, there’s still more art than science. To adapt, iGo uses the “wisdom of the crowd” concept to keep up with trend cycles. No single algorithm is responsible or capable of handling the rapid, seemingly irrational, flux of fashion sentiment. Through iGo, retailers can pin, share, and tweet products, all while tracking their social influence cycle, observing trends, and keeping their inventory fresh. What’s next for iGo may be more than just recommending an item from an existing stock of inventory. It could be suggesting a custom-built item, made for that particular customer. It’s a riff on the personalization trend of the 1990s Nike ID, and present-day e-tailors like Indochino, Blank Label, and Ratio. Combined with a service like iGoDigital, retailers could use knowledge of their customer preferences to customize an item’s color, fit, material and other variables. It’s a reinvention of the tailor, and a smart new way to do fashion.
Randy and Angie stocklin, one click ventures Even in this digital age, print lives. Neatly framed rows of magazine covers and style watch pages adorn a hallway at One Click, showcasing the handbags and scarves recommended by shopping magazines, like People Style Watch. When funding a startup, raising capital isn’t the only option. One Click was bootstrapped by the Stocklins themselves. Reinvesting profit allowed them to grow One Click conservatively through calculated risks.
One Click Ventures Using technology to scale and implement a portfolio of e-commerce shops with a single team. Randy and Angie Stocklin, co-founders Randy and Angie fell in love… and fell into fashion. As a newlywed couple in 2005, they acquired Sunglass Warehouse, an online boutique. Each holding down full time jobs (he at Angie’s List, and she as a school psychologist), they managed and fulfilled orders, stocked inventory, and shipped merchandise – all from their home. After attending trade shows to select the next season’s stock, they identified an opportunity to replicate this model on a larger scale, and expand to new product lines. From this, One Click Ventures was born, an e-commerce company fueled by marketing, technology, and acquisitions. Today, the Stocklins work from a beautifully designed office and warehouse space in Greenwood. They employ 50+ employees, and operate eight online boutiques, including Handbag Heaven, Scarves Dot Net, and The Fedora Store. A technology company at heart, social media helps them build and support relationships with customers, optimize search, and drive revenue. Facebook storefronts, exclusive offers, and using “likes” to determine which handbag gets released next, are just a few of the tangible ways they can use social platforms. Pinterest boards allow their Scarves Dot Net and Handbag Heaven e-boutiques to build an entire lifestyle around their respective brands, sharing beautiful things to eat, places to travel, party ideas and decor. Participating as a user and not just a product-pusher helps them identify with customers. Although you won’t see the One Click logo emblazoned on its boutique’s sites, the brand has a strong presence in Indianapolis due to its role in the tech community, and the larger economy. Indy’s place at the Crossroads has provided access to a distribution hub that helps them quickly send and receive merchandise. Randy and Angie have also reaped the benefits of a strong talent pool from Indiana universities, and a supportive business community. It’s no surprise they were voted Indiana’s Best Place to Work in 2012, and through state incentives and growth by acquisition, they’ll be able to double their modest team over the next five years.
My Best Friend’s Hair Review-based software that harnesses technology to connect its users with the stylist of their dreams. Janell Shaffer and Danielle McDowell, co-founders If you’ve ever broken up with a stylist, you know the pain and difficulty of finding a new one. After finding herself in the lurch, co-founder Janell Shaffer dreamt of a better way to find a new stylist. Danielle McDowell, who was trying to wean herself from her stylist in Fort Wayne, was tired of trial and failure, and wished that there was someone she trusted to help her navigate the sea of options. Out of these pains, Janell and Danielle built My Best Friend’s Hair, a review-based website that empowers women to find the perfect stylist, style, and product. Launched just over a year ago, My Best Friend’s Hair is now available in all 50 states – a rapid growth supported by an easily scalable, self-service business model. Preceded and inspired by popular review sites like Angie’s List and Yelp, My Best Friend’s Hair fills a
one click ventures warehouse
industry void by providing a bottom to top channel that’s all about hair. Along with their website, My Best Friend’s Hair has developed a Style Seeker iPad app, an interactive stylebook and client relationship manager (CRM) for salons and stylists. With the app, client information like color formula, hair type, and preferences can be noted. Additionally, an archive of before and after photos can be logged to serve as a reference point for future styles. The key to My Best Friend’s Hair is search and recommendations, realized by great content and a sophisticated platform. To encourage new visitors to the site, optimize search, and build a relationship with their users, Janell and Danielle pump their site with fresh, relevant content, ranging from hair advice to celebrity scoops and style trends. Furthering this play on Pinterest, they’ve quickly become a resource for all things hair.
Quipol A plug and play option for people to gather customer opinions, without the need for custom development. Max Yoder, Founder
JANELL AND DANIELLE, MY BEST FRIEND’S HAIR, below left Janell and Danielle advise startups to test their business models, take risks, and set their limits to help know when it’s time to pivot.
Quipol is an application that allows users to build simple, elegant polls that can be embedded in a blog or website to get feedback from their audience on virtually any topic. Through a simple thumbs-up or thumbs-down, Quipol helps users collect, measure, and analyze what their users think about a specific topic. The Quipol tool is incredibly versatile, and although not built exclusively for the fashion community, it’s easy to see how it can be applied. Internet retailers, like Modcloth, allow users to Pick or Skip which looks get produced next, while on New York Magazine’s site, you can rate runway looks as Hit or Miss. Each of these scenarios involves one image with two options – thumbs-up or thumbs-down. For smaller startups and local boutiques, Quipol could be a new way to measure their customers’ opinions on which looks they love. Already, local t-shirt designer Hayes & Taylor has used Quipol to get feedback on new designs before they hit production.
Max Yoder, Quipol, below right Max advises startups to fail fast and get to market quickly. Let your users shape your product. What Indy lacks in serendipity, it makes up for in mentorship. Indianapolis has an accessible community of advisors; if you’re willing to work hard, they’re willing to help you get there.
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These four companies are traveling down the same path that Gilt, Moda, and Warby have paved. In fact, it may be more accurate to describe the local companies featured here as the true fashion-tech road-pavers. We aren’t lagging or following coyly in their footsteps. We’re at the front of the pack, innovating and integrating with the best of them. ✂
anton babich Dressed in his signature, jewel toned dress shirt and white loafers, Babich knows how to stand out in the crowd.
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anton babich Ft. Wayne’s Fashion King.
TEXT by maria dickman + photograph by polina osherov Despite the summer heat and an ambitious business plan, Anton Babich never seems to break a sweat in his white loafers, embellished jeans, and boldly patterned button-ups. He’s as cool and collected at the Fort Wayne Starbucks he frequents while managing his fashion brands, and a slew of social media sites, as he is on the red carpet on a steamy Friday in June at Fashion Show 3.0, a showcase of five Indiana designers, the finale of which debuted the relaunch of Babich’s Anton Alexander menswear collection. As brawny men clad in an array of brightly patterned button-ups and coordinating slacks sauntered down the runway to the exultant cheers of the audience, it became apparent that Babich has created something truly special in Fort Wayne. Born in Kiev, Ukraine, Babich and his family immigrated to the northern Indiana city in 1991 to pursue “the American dream.” Now, twenty-one years later, the debut of his Anton Alexander line is a testament to Babich’s vision and ambition. Babich’s resume is diverse — reality television show host, automotive salesman, realtor, marketing professional, and freelance graphic designer — but his passion for cars and modern technology ultimately led him to his current job title: Fashion Designer. While working in internet marketing and social media, Babich curated a large following, dubbed The Party Rock Crew. He began throwing events at local nightclubs, during which he’d wear shirts, ties, and vests customized with heat-pressed rhinestones. The Party Rock Crew loved his look, so Babich began to research the business of fashion. His love of cars proved valuable, as he recognized the importance of a quality product, and Babich’s obsession with the latest technology translated into a passion for originality and innovation. Thus, in 2010, he produced his first fashion show, Livin’ Loud, during which men and women modeled his rhinestone designs. The success of Livin’ Loud led to the creation of Exotiq Apparel, a collection of Italian silk ties for businessmen, and its embellished, nightlife-geared sibling, Exotiq Extreme. The reception to Exotiq Apparel ties pushed Babich to do more. Ever the entrepreneur, he set out to create a business plan, and began creating patterns for dress shirts and pants. He showcased his original designs at Fashion Show 2.0 in 2011 to great success. The desire to grow his label prompted a major rebranding effort. The name “Exotiq Apparel” had evolved out of a desire for diversity and originality, but Babich recognized that to move forward, he needed a brand name that reflected the quality of his designs. Thus, Exotiq Apparel evolved into Anton Alexander. His desire to grow the Anton Alexander brand has taken him to Las Vegas, New York, and Miami, but Babich makes his future plans very clear. He intends to use Fort Wayne as his business hub. With his large social media following, Babich is a marketing juggernaut. Babich founded FortWayneFashion.com to create buzz for anything fashion-related in the area, publicizing events and designers through the website, as well as his own personal and professional social media accounts, to create a virtual community of fashion-enthusiasts in the Midwest. “The social world is tight,” he said. But Babich feels that most menswear brands are failing to engage the customer, a mistake he plans to change. “I differentiate Anton Alexander by providing helpful, entertaining, and interesting posts for my audience. Eventually, I want to create a rewards system and loyalty program for my customers. They gain points for socializing about what they bought, and in return, engaging with the brand online makes them feel special.” Funding is key for making this plan a reality. “You need capital to create a system,” he said. But Babich believes in his vision. He self-funded Fashion Show 3.0 in June to introduce his rebranded collection, and bring attention to other local talent. “We have to be open minded to collaboration. We make a bigger difference working together,” he said. “And we need to create a better system here. We need to create manufacturing.” Babich’s next goal involves doing just that. While the Exotiq Apparel line was produced in China, Babich intends to jump on the Made in the U.S.A. bandwagon. Currently,
he is securing investors who can make his vision a reality and researching commercial manufacturing equipment. “In Fort Wayne, there is room for error. There’s room for capital. The cost of living and manufacturing allows for that,” he said. “We can take more risks. We can always sell the product elsewhere.” Babich acknowledges that the amount of support he’s received thus far is overwhelming, but he recognizes that his products are not for the wallflower. “You can’t wear a yellow button-up and be the guy in the corner,” he says. “You have to be bold, confident.” He knows this from experience. “I tried to conform for awhile,” he said. “But I became antisocial and depressed, until I realized that the more ‘me’ that I am, my life will be ten times better. So, my designs have to portray my story. If I don’t like it, I can’t sell it.” The Anton Alexander collection is sold online at antonalexander.com. ✂
2012 fashion show Babich regularly organizes fashion shows in Ft. Wayne which usually sell out and are highly popular with the locals. This year’s Fashion Show 3.0 where Babich showed off his Anton Alexander line also featured several other designers and was standing room only. Photographs by Jude SR Photography
make believers Costumes make characters. Costumes make believers.
beth Bennett Draper.
dress form wearing jacket made for King Lear.
leather cobbler machine aaron wardwell Assistant to Costume shop manager.
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pleated satin skirt made for Abe Lincoln in Illinois.
andree marley wardrobe supervisor.
wig heads with hand-made cotton crinoline wigs.
brown paper patterns
text by Savannah Norris + photograph by polina osherov To step into a designer’s workshop is to take a look inside the designer’s mind. The costume workshop at the Indiana Repertory Theatre is a perfect embodiment of that idea. From the functioning antique Singer to the rows of modern dress forms, the delicate mingling of contemporary haute couture and period costume is apparent from the first glance. Constructing historical dress that is pleasing to modern-day fashion sensibilities is a daunting task for any theatre, but one that the IRT costume staff does with grace and precision, without sacrificing the voice of the past, and of the character. Walking down the arched hallway to reach the studio is like entering a museum housed within a Spanish Baroque castle (albeit one built by Paramount Pictures). The gowns of performances long past line the walls, displaying their sweep and grandeur. In person, as on stage, these garments are unmistakably well crafted, polished, refined, and elegant. At home on any world stage, the quality and detail is breath taking, a true artist’s vision. Upon reaching the workshop, one is greeted with a painted quote above the entryway, “Thru this portal pass the most talented artists in the world,” reminding them of their responsibilities to uphold the legacy of each play they work on. Beyond the doorway, the workshop holds a pleasant mixture of old and new. Guy Clark, manager of this magical workshop, plays a key role in keeping theatre costume relevant. He guides the necessary research for the garments in each season’s eight full wardrobes, and works with designers to keep them historically accurate, yet appealing to modern sensibilities. As Beth Bennett, professional draper on staff, describes this process, “If we were to create costumes that were say... exactly drawn from the year 1920, the modern eye would recognize them for their historical placement, but maybe not accept them in an aesthetic way. It is a fine line to create historical costume, and keep it interesting for the modern audience.” To construct a wardrobe for a character, one must take into consideration many ideas. The costume must portray the character, and tell a story in and of itself. Wrought with historical significance, and drawn from the inner psyche of the character, a costume is much more than fabric on a form. The designers, drapers, patternmakers, and stylists must represent a narrative within the play, one exquisitely designed and constructed. Beyond the design, construction too takes on a higher quality and significance. The garment must, of course, be constructed to fit the actor or actress for whom it is made. It is arguably more important, however, that the construction be able to withstand the wear and tear of multiple performances, and quick and unforgiving backstage costume changes. This less aesthetic, more utilitarian consideration will often have a great impact on the final garment. On the day of Pattern’s shoot at the IRT, I entered the dressing room to find the model garbed in an intricately pleated skirt. Yards and yards of fabric billowed out behind her, Later, as corsets, gloves, and other accoutrements, along with more of the pleated gowns and stiff crinolines, piled on every surface in the dressing room, it became easy to imagine the preperformance fitting rooms backstage. These garments hailed from many plays and many time periods, and brought together the eclectic talents of the costume staff. Very soon, these talents will be presented on stage in a performance of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde, as designed by Devon Painter. Guy Clark describes this as an imaginative take on the classic styling, pulling in a whimsical steampunk feel. Tailored jackets and elaborate bustles will be key elements of the production’s zeitgeist. Costume is one of the most direct ways to connect with an audience. Costumes are visible, tangible, subtly familiar, and immediate. They entice the audience, luring their gaze to look through the translucent windows that stand between the past and the present, between fantasy and reality. It is through costume that actors become characters; it is through costume that the audience becomes believers. By interweaving elements of theatre and fashion, the IRT costume department beautifully creates a connection between the performing arts and the Indianapolis community. ✂
Photography by Polina Osherov Styling by Nikki Sutton make-up by NaShara Mitchell
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Hair by Caitlin Taylor Models: Emily Nyberg//LModelz + Stephanie Schilling//independent Assistant: Gabrielle Cheikh
Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde will take the main stage this fall, so we invited our dark side to come out and play in these one-of-a-kind garments designed and constructed by the Indiana Repertory Theatreâ€™s costume department.
on emily Traditional menâ€™s tuxedo vest originally worn in The 39 Steps. Silk black faille tiered skirt originally made for Mary Todd Lincoln in The Heavens Were Hung With Black, Worn by Mary Beth Fisher who will appear in Hyde this fall. Parasol frame from the IRT costume collection.
on Stephanie Silk and wool plaid riding coat originally made for The Adventures of Sherlock Holmes. Cane from the IRT costume collection. Black satin top hat from A Christmas Carol. Vinyl pants, stylistâ€™s own.
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on emily Bustle originally made for The Adventures of Sherlock Holmes. Ivory silk blouse and full length wool skirt made for Intimate Apparel. Black harness, stylistâ€™s own.
on Emily Brown leather boots, distressed top hat and handmade Distressed black cotton corset, all from the IRT costume collection. Black wool fall-front pants originally made for A Christmas Carol. Vintage weight lifting belt, stylistâ€™s own.
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on Stephanie Brown silk hat originally built for The Adventures of Sherlock Holmes. Muslin chemise and Teal pleated silk skirt made for Les Trois Dumas. Vintage brown leather gloves from the IRT costume collection. Brown leather belt, stylistâ€™s own.
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on Stephanie Brown satin hat made for Dracula. Lobster cage bustle originally built for The Adventures of Sherlock Holmes. Muslin petticoat, vintage silk blouse and crocheted gloves from the IRT costume collection.
on emily Vintage blouse and Handmade muslin petticoat from the IRT costume collection. Stockings and briefs, stylistâ€™s own.
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Be daring , â€œ
be impractical, ASSERT INTEGRITY OF imaginative vision play-it-safers, the commonplace,
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be different, be anythinG THAT WILL purpose and against the the creatures of the slaves of ordinary.
â€” Cecil Beaton
Theirs, Yours, Theirs A brick and mortar marketplace for clothing’s many lives.
by Maggie Conner + photographs BY stephen simonetto
Broad Ripple Vintage
In the Indianapolis consignment business, there’s nothing but love. While some owners shop at each other’s stores, others wax poetically about how helpful their retail competitors have been. According to America’s Research Group, a consumer research firm, about 12 to 15 percent of Americans shop at a consignment store in a given year. “There’s a lot of room for all of us resale owners to grow and to capture those people, and to get them into shopping resale,” said Vena Holden, owner of Greenwood’s Selective Seconds. “So I don’t look at other resale shops as competitors. I work with them instead of against them.” The consignment/resale industry is on the rise, with approximately $13 billion in annual revenue. “It’s an investment in the future, and it will take time, but it has gone with such a speed in the beginning that I feel really lucky,” laughed Amy Bonham, owner of eveningwear consignment store, Retulled, which opened in January. “I think it’s a good bet, and I think it’s a good risk.”
Opened in: 1998 Neighborhood: Broad Ripple Seller Receives: Negotiable, but owner usually doesn’t purchase items directly from customers Consignment contract: none Seeking: Epitomes of style twenty years or older; menswear and womenswear, accessories Appeals to: Rock n’Rollers Stephanie Cater, Broad Ripple Vintage’s owner, is like that friend’s cool aunt you always wished was your own. Sporting a sleek black bob and an upbeat, hippie attitude, Cater blends in perfectly with her eclectic, funky store. Having opened her store in 1998, Cater must have the secret recipe for retail longevity. “God’s grace, honestly. We’re just ultra-special-blessed,” she said. Come on now, there must be more to it than that, right? “Well, we try to be consistent. We’ve always restocked on Saturday, and we always really try hard to help if you want help, and stay out of your way if you don’t. But it’s all very random, isn’t it?” But on a weekday afternoon, the store was bustling with customers. Cater finds most of the store’s merchandise at an array of flea markets, garage sales, auctions and secondhand shops, but she’s willing to take in suitable pieces from people who want to sell to her directly, as long as it fits with the store’s image. “When I’m stocking the store, I look for epitomes of style,” she said. “That’s why little conservative things are kind of hard to find in here. “ Mod leather minidresses, oversized band t-shirts, vintage military jackets, and sequined disco tops are just a few items that might be found in the store at any given time. And unlike the overpriced vintage shops in NYC, Broad Ripple Vintage is crazy affordable considering its rock star-worthy selection. Cater’s inspiration for the store came from nights out dancing with her husband. “We used to cut a rug four nights a week. It was the days of Jane’s Addiction, Erasure, Nine Inch Nails, all those eighties and nineties bands,” she said. “So we would dress up in gold lamé. Yeah, our daughter used to walk, like, way behind us on the sidewalk.”
If you’re looking to add more color to your wardrobe, Broad Ripple Vintage is bound to please the zaniest of fashion sensibilities.
After a stint selling American vintage items like Levis, cowboy shirts, and old Nikes to Japanese clients, Cater and her husband spotted the empty Broad Ripple spot, and decided to give the vintage business a go. “And within two months, the Japanese economy hit the skids,” remembered Cater with a laugh. “Everybody went belly up, except for us! So, thank you Lord!” Mid-interview, Cater paused to help a teenage girl in dip-dyed shorts and Doc Martens browsing the sunglasses case. The girl excitedly pointed out an oversized round pair. “I like those John Lennon-ish ones!” she said with a nervous giggle. “Totally,” Cater nodded sagely. “They’re a little less of John Lennon and a little more Ozzie Osbourne.” As the girl walked out the door with her new shades in hand, Cater called out her signature goodbye —“Rock on!” 824 East 64th Street, Indianapolis, IN 46220. (317) 255-4135, www.broadripplevintage.com
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Butterfly Consignment Opened in: 2009 Neighborhood: Castleton Seller Receives: 50% of the selling price
The Designer Men’s Room Opened in: 2009 Neighborhood: Broad Ripple
Seeking: Clothing and accessories that are three years or less; better and designer brands; vintage jewelry and designer accessories
Seller receives: 50% of the selling price on high-end labels, 40% for all other brands
Appeals to: Locavores
Consignment contract: 90 days
Don’t limit Butterfly Consignment to typical consignment store parameters, because it’s more than just that. Yes, owner Niquelle Allen buys and sells “preloved” clothing and accessories, but she also aggressively promotes local indie business owners in her Castleton area store. “I encourage people who have small businesses to sell their items at Butterfly Consignment without having to open up a brick and mortar store themselves,” Allen said. “It’s a way to foster local entrepreneurship for other people.” Body butters, fragrance oils, jewelry, and artwork are a few of the popular handmade offerings available at Butterfly Consignment. “We sell out of the handmade stuff all the time,” Allen said. In 2009, Allen left her lawyer job, and combined her passion for fashion, her diehard consignment shopping savvy, and her love of recycling, to open up her dream store. “I named the store Butterfly because they represent beauty and personal change,” Allen explained. “I’ve always been in a logical, analytical type of field, and I wanted to use the other side of my brain to do something fun and creative.” Now she is a full-time lawyer again, but still stays fully invested in the store. And business is better than expected. “You go into this sort of thing and you don’t know what to expect,” Allen said. “Of course you can always improve, but at the same time I feel satisfaction that customers are enjoying the store. We do so many different things for our customers.” One thing Butterfly Consignment offers its customers is a biannual resale bus tour. For a nominal fee, Allen hires a charter bus for fifty people, and provides lunch discount on stores. The next tour is scheduled for November. The bus travels to five consignment stores, which are rotated so that participants can visit a variety of different shops each time. “I’m almost running out of stores to do,” Allen said. “I’m actually thinking about doing the next one out of town. To Louisville or Cincinnati or some place like that.” Allen supplements her consignment with down stock merchandise from local boutiques. If a boutique is going out of business, downsizing, or just ready to turn over its inventory, those extra pieces go to Butterfly Consignment at a heavily discounted price. “There’s really something for everyone,” Allen said. “From Louis Vuitton to White House Black Market to vintage jewelry, we have it all.”
Seeking: Menswear, recent styles; some select vintage Appeals to: All male clients Upon entering The Designer Men’s Room, the most noteworthy feature is the immaculate condition in which the store is kept. “I’m very OCD, so I like everything organized,” said Jeff Newman, who co-owns the store with his wife, Amanda. “I think guy shoppers in general don’t like to hunt around. They want to go find what they need quickly - get in and out.” Dark wood floors, vintage posters, and neatly arranged clothing racks are just a few of the polished elements that contribute to the Broad Ripple store’s elegant, yet masculine, environment. Since buying the store in 2009, the husband and wife team have made a few changes. First, they expanded the store to twice its original size. They also increased their offerings from exclusively suits and business attire to include sportswear and motorcycle gear. “We’re constantly evolving and expanding,” Newman said. The Newmans’ extensive consignment experience contributes to The Designer Men’s Room’s success. The couple also owns Carmel Consignment, a ladies’ store that has been around for over ten years, The District Exchange, a juniors’ consignment store, and Amanda’s City-Chic, a furniture consignment store, all located in Carmel. “We have a process and a standard that we’ve established through our other stores. All of our stores are organized, they look good, and they’re easy to shop,” Newman said. “And since we have three other stores, we cross promote, which is our biggest marketing advantage.” The male shopper requires a completely different strategy than a female one. “They aren’t as coupon or sales oriented as women are,” Newman explained. “Coupons have not worked for us. At Carmel Consignment, a sale is a great big deal. Here, not so much.” What does work is a high-traffic location, a wide selection of items, and great presentation. Somewhere between the neat display of designer jeans, the rows of just-steamed blazers, and the good-looking section of dress shoes lies a designated charity section. Consignors can choose to donate clothes after their 90-day contract expires. The clothes or their proceeds go to Kids Against Hunger once a month. “All of our stores do that,” Newman said. “We’re proud of it. Well, actually, we’re just proud of the whole thing.” 720 East 65th Street, Indianapolis, IN 46220, (317) 253-2533 www.designermensroom.com
Consignment contract: 60 days
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6697 E. 82nd Street, Indianapolis, IN 46250, (317) 594-0000, www.shopbfly.com.
Racks of stylish shoes await new owners at the Designer Men’s Room.
Opened just this year, Retulled is already attracting customers from cities like Chicago. Clients get more for their money in Indy.
reTULLEd Opened in: 2012 Neighborhood: Irvington Seller receives: 50% of the selling price Consignment contract: 120 days Seeking: Wedding dresses, eveningwear, prom dresses, cocktail, all bridal, jewelry, accessories and shoes Appeals to: Anyone shopping for a big occasion Amy Lee Bonham has no problem calling her Irvington-area store used. From the prom, evening, and wedding gowns that she specializes in, to the hangers she collects from other stores, everything in reTULLEd came from a previous owner. “This is the ultimate in recycling,” Bonham said. “I don’t use any gas, I walk to work. The only thing new is the paint.” Besides being more eco-friendly than a standard formalwear store, another benefit of Bonham’s frugal mentality is lower prices for her customers. Bare minimum expenses keep mark ups down. “The store doesn’t look exactly as glamorous as I’d like it to be. It’s not quite so chichi,” Bonham said. “But, if it doesn’t sell a dress, I really can’t spend money on it. It’s not the smart way to go.” Because the prices are better than larger cities like Chicago, ladies are flocking to Indianapolis for a great value. “I have people coming from all directions,” Bonham said. “When people are looking for wedding gowns, they’ll go the distance to get what they want. A concept like this is a destination.” Oh, and let’s not forget about the Kate Middleton effect. ReTULLEd is one of the only bridal stores in town that has a big inventory of long-sleeved gowns. “Some older women on their second or third weddings don’t want to show their arms,” Bonham said. “But now, designers make mostly strapless dresses. So, these women can’t find anything that covers all their wobbly bits that they don’t like anybody to see except at our store.” Selling a big occasion at a small price, Bonham witnesses joyful moments every day. “I mean, I get happy about a pair of boots I get for a great deal!” she laughs. “But this is a little more exciting, a little more rewarding, when they find their wedding gown at a fantastic price.” 5607 E Washington St, Indianapolis, IN 46219. 317.358.8802, www.retulled.com 67
Roxanne Parriott, left, launched In Vogue in Carmel.
Opened in: 2007
Opened in: 1997
Seller receives: 50% of the selling price on premier labels; 40% on other designers
Seller Receives: 40% of the selling price
Consignment Contract: 60 days
Seeking: Mall and catalog brands or better, womenswear, accessories and shoes
Seeking: Women’s designer brands, mall brands, womenswear, accessories and shoes Appeals to: Designer Junkies In 2007, Roxanne Parriott saw that a high-end element was missing from the local consignment mix, and decided to change the game for the better. Soon after, she opened up In Vogue, a Carmel consignment store specializing in designer brands like Chanel, St. John, and Prada. In Vogue is a family business. Manager Kayleigh Paul is Parriott’s daughter-in-law-tobe, and Parriott’s aunt and mother also work at the store. “Roxanne has done a really good job with the décor, and the feel of the place here,” Paul said. “It’s kind of an escape. We have a lot of women coming in just to enjoy the environment, a lot of dedicated lunch shoppers.” Most of In Vogue’s consignors hail from Carmel, Zionsville, and Fishers. “I think a lot of the stores on the south side tend to have more of a thrift store feel,” said Paul. “But many of our consignors travel all over the world so they bring us stuff you don’t get to see at a lot of the local stores.” Despite In Vogue’s preference for high-end brand names, there are still plenty of pieces available for the girl on a budget. “You can find something for $1, and you can find a custom Tadashi dress for $3000; [it] depends on what you’re looking for, and what you’re looking to spend,” Paul said. “I had a lady this morning that bought an Armani skirt for $3.40, and I had a lady on Saturday that bought an Armani suit for $240.” And if the enormous 7,000 square foot store seems like an intimidating size to navigate, Paul is extremely knowledgeable about In Vogue’s merchandise. Looking for an iconic Chanel 2.55 bag? Color-block Carrie Bradshaw Manolos? Skinny jeans for under $20? She can point out where each specific item is located in the store at a moment’s notice. Paul’s services reach outside the store. For a fee, she will organize closets and consult on what to buy, keep, and consign. “Our customer service goes above and beyond,” she said. “We know so many clients by name, and know their life stories. And since it’s a family-run business, it’s a very intimate environment.” 11546 Westfield Blvd, Carmel, IN 46032. (317) 580-0058, www.yourinvogue.com 68
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Consignment contract: 60 days
Appeals to: Fashion-forward working women For those who hyperventilate over the mere idea of rifling through a messy mound of clothing in a cluttered store, Selective Seconds offers a big sigh of relief. Cheerful blue paint, bright lighting, and methodically organized clothing racks create a stress-free shopping environment for customers. Chic blackboards label small racks of clothes grouped by name brands (Banana Republic, J. Crew, Ann Taylor), or category (designer brands, brand-new items, denim). But shopping ease isn’t the only reason why the Greenwood consignment store has been around for a decade. “I network a lot with other resale shops,” explained owner Vena Holden. “We’ve become a tight group.” A decade ago, then newbie consignment store owner, Holden, learned the difference between hobbyist resale store owners and financially successful resale store owners. “I decided to rub elbows with the ones who were serious about business,” she said. So she joined NARTS (National Association of Retail and Thrift Stores), started attending conferences, and networking with successful consignment owners to find out what they were doing right. Holden believes in a hands-on approach to business ownership. “It was a lot of learning, because I did it all myself,” she said. “I did the accounting for years, because I couldn’t afford an accountant, but it’s helped me because I understand every aspect of my business now.” And while some consignment stores are strict about the labels they will take, Holden tries to keep an open mind. “I’m not a label person, myself, and I never have been,” she said. “I’ll carry the Vera Bradley purse, where a lot of my customers would never be caught dead with a Vera Bradley.” 1140 Indiana SR 135, Greenwood, IN 46142, (317) 888-2300, www.selectiveseconds.com
A Downtown Experience Thatâ€™s
harold lee miller. photographer.
The work of Harold Lee Miller can be found in magazines, books, and brochures. It can be seen adorning gallery walls, or discovered on billboards at great heights. And sometimes, sometimes it can even be seen at the Indiana State Fair. In his new studio along bustling Virginia Avenue, Nikki Sutton sat down with Mr. Miller to discuss creativity, inspiration, frustration, and the hidden hazards of state fairs. TEXT BY NIKKI SUTTON I have admired Harold Lee Miller’s work while waiting for the light to change at the corner of Delaware and Fort Wayne for several years. On the south facade of his previous studio hung a larger-than-life portrait of two awkwardly beautiful ladies holding hands. The identical sisters, dressed in matching aqua party dresses, faces full of ennui, stood together at some unremarkable party, languidly holding their punch-filled plastic cups. The positioning of the subjects, the symmetrical composition, the flat frontal lighting, and the playful use of color struck me as part Wes Anderson, part The Shining – those creepy twin girls were all grown up. But what really intrigued me was that a local commercial photographer was marketing himself with this image, and based on the size of his free standing studio and his sweet downtown location, he must be pretty successful. I just knew the man responsible for this quirky image would prove to be equally bizarre. I was half right. Harold is, in fact, a vivacious artist with a distinctly fresh and modern point of view wrapped in the package of an unassuming, down-to Earth, and—may I say—quite lovely human being who cares about his community, his integrity, and really just wants everyone to be happy.
NIKKI: How many years have you been operating as Harold Lee Miller, Photographer? HAROLD: Twenty-three years, since June 1989. NIKKI: What do you shoot with, and what are you known for shooting? HAROLD: I shoot with a Hasselblad 22mp, a 50mp digital, and a Canon 5D MkII. I am known for shooting conceptual, lifestyle, and portrait images for advertising and marketing. NIKKI: When did you know this was your calling? HAROLD: I knew I was a talented photographer when I started shooting in high school and found I had a lot of passion for it, and got lots of positive feedback from my art teacher and other people I respected. I made it my calling after a stint as a newspaper writer and editor, and always knew I would be successful commercially. It was just a matter of time and effort.
NIKKI: You just built out a new studio in the heart of Fletcher Place. Can you talk about how you chose where to build your business? Why Fletcher Place? HAROLD: I started out in the old Printing Arts building at 630 N. College Ave., a great old loft-style building full of printers and related trades. Then I rented a space on the southeast side of downtown for 13 years before building a place at 620 N. Delaware St. I moved out of that building and leased it to Brenner Design when I bought my current location at 646 Virginia Ave. I moved because the real estate at 620 N. Delaware St. became too valuable relative to the level of business I had when the economy tanked in late 2007-2008. I wanted a great space, but in a neighborhood that was still up-and-coming and hadn’t experienced the real estate boom that made other property downtown prohibitively expensive. I never wanted to be anywhere but downtown. Fletcher Place was a good fit for me—cool neighborhood, available real estate, lots of upside. NIKKI: The more I review your portfolio, the easier it gets for me to recognize one of your images. How would you describe your style?
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left: Carlynn in the weeds. below: Jesse Bollenbucher. opposite: Harold Lee Miller.
HAROLD: I can’t describe it very well – other people can do a better job of it than I can. The best I can say is that I lean toward artful imagery, sometimes quirky, carefully composed and with the objective of creating perfection within the confines of the frame. I’m hired for projects in which the client wants something a bit different, images that communicate not just the idea, but also projects the emotional and aesthetic sense the client (or at least the art director) wants to project. NIKKI: Your book, Fair Culture, was a finalist in the photography category in ForeWord Review’s annual Book of the Year contest, and now you are the Artist in Residence at the 2012 State Fair. Can you talk a little about the inspiration for this series? What were the shoot days like? HAROLD: The Fair Culture project was born out of my idealized vision of small-town, rural America, a world my parents and extended family lived in, but one that I never experienced. Having grown up all over the place in a military family, I never had a hometown. I imagined what it would be like and romanticized it. I initially thought I was documenting a declining culture when I first shot people and animals at the fair, a life I assumed was disappearing, just as I assumed that small town culture was declining. I found that Indiana’s fairs are still healthy and vibrant, although it isn’t oriented toward rural America as much as it used to be. Some of the 4H kids who raise animals and show them at the fair live in the city—they raise them on their relatives’ farms. It’s still the same chickens and cows and pigs and all, but the people are more urbanized. What I tried to do was compose and light the subjects so that they were presented without my romantic bias muddying the waters, so the viewer could see the people – and animals—as they are, free of any artificial dramatization. I’m not saying that they aren’t “presented” from my point of view, just that I carefully chose the style I shot them in to minimize the artifice. The images are directly descended from the work of Disfarmer and Richard Avedon’s In the West series. Shooting at fairs is painful—it’s hot, lots of flies around, I got ringworm twice, and animals don’t take direction well. Still, it was fun.
NIKKI: Can you explain “The Heather Show” and “I’m Not Dead, I’m Just Standing In”?
NIKKI: What is your favorite personal project? Professional project?
HAROLD: Heather Rodocker was my producer for about five years, and because she was often there when we were setting up shoots, she ended up standing in for models or subjects while we worked on lighting and angles and all that. I quickly noticed how well she photographed, and I started keeping these setup shots of her. When I had a pretty good collection of them, I made her a Blurb book that I titled “I’m Not Dead, I’m Just Standing In,” which refers to a photo of her laying on a floor with police tape around her. She was helping me get the lighting right in that image, which depicted a female model collapsed on the floor, deceased, with a policeman standing over her. I called the exhibit “The Heather Show” because it was all photos of Heather – posing or just standing there for lighting.
HAROLD: My favorite personal project right now is something I started years ago and am planning to return to: photographs taken at drive-in theaters. I’m thinking about getting a book proposal together after I shoot some more images before winter gets here. One of my favorite professional projects of late I shot in Davenport, Iowa, portraits of scrapyard workers and images of the scrap itself. [It] could have been a fine-art project; I wouldn’t have approached it any differently if it were. Lars Lawson of Timber was the creative director on that project. Also, I shot portraits of some vision-impaired clients of Bosma Enterprises for Dan Shearin of Pivot that were very gratifying to work on. A job I did earlier in the year for Digitas Health out of NYC, a series of images of cancer survivors, was challenging and rewarding, and we just did a very fun fashion series for Simon that yielded lots of fun images, and allowed me to work with a BMW Isetta, the coolest prop I’ve had in the studio in a long time.
NIKKI: I want to go back to something you mentioned during the panel discussion regarding creative integrity vs. working to satisfy a client. As a designer, I often struggle with what my artistic gut says is right, and what my client is asking for. How do you balance these voices when they are in opposition? HAROLD: I always defer to the client when there’s a creative difference on a shoot. It’s their money being spent, so I don’t try to talk them into anything they don’t want to do. I used to get frustrated by clients when they didn’t want to do what I thought was best for them, then I decided it was wasted energy, and that I could fulfill my creative vision on my own time. When you take money for your work, you immediately give up some creative control – sometimes more than others. That’s only fair. Also, they may know better than I do what’s best for them, so there’s that. What I try to do is work with people whose taste agrees with mine so there are fewer of those disagreements. Of course, many of my clients hire me because they agree with my overall vision. It makes it easier, although not always, because they’re often very creative people too; they have their own vision, and they can articulate effectively why they want something done a certain way – an approach different than the one I might take.
NIKKI: Where do you go for inspiration for personal shoots? Magazines? Movies? HAROLD: I’m inspired by movies, paintings, graphic design, illustration, architecture, interior design, cars, and people. My favorite movies are The Royal Tenenbaums and Zero Effect. I am inspired by almost everyone I meet, maybe everyone—some people inspire me to be not them. NIKKI: Instagram. Yes or no? HAROLD: I think Instagram is great at putting a romantic gauze over photos, and I find the effect very pleasing, but it doesn’t agree with my puritanical approach to my craft. If I don’t suffer a bit in the process, then it doesn’t feel real to me. ✂
blank canvas fall make-up trends. photographs BY esther boston
Shade Artist Tai Rising-Moore Studio: Awkward Beauty awkwardbeauty.ca/ on tonI Face: Lips stained with a buxom stick using the color “nantucket” Buxom. Buxom® Big & Healthy Lip Stick. Brows: Brown e.l.f. to paint individual hairs on the brows. Eyes: Used black close in to her lash line to define her eye, red on the base of the lid and then gently blended up. Cheeks: A little of the peach shade on the apple of her cheek. Muse: Toni Clark // Independent Model
The delicately blended pastel shadows of Jill Stuart and Donna karan
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Shade Artist Morgan wright
Studio: morgan wright facebook.com/MorganElizabethMakeupArtist on Emily Face: Medium MAC Studio Sculpt Foundation. Cheeks: Blush: MAC Creamblend blush in So Sweet so Easy. Benefit Cheek Stain in Benetint. Cheek highlighter in high beam. Eyes: NYX eye shadow in golden. NYX shadow on Rust. MAC Penultimate eye liner in black. Lips: bentint lip stain paired with MAC clear lip glass. Muse: emily// lmodelz
The rose washed cheeks of Michael Kors and Helmut Lang
Draw Artist Ella Hattery
Studio: elle hattery makeup art ellahatterymakeupart.com on Toni Lips: Sugar lip treatment SPF 15 clear conditioner for lips. Shiseido corrector pencil #2 medium around the lips. Lip liner: Makeup forever aqua lip 12c. Rouge in love 292. Lancôme for lips. Gloss: La Laque fever, Lancôme Dynamic. Muse: Toni Clark // Independent Model
The silhouette of Yves Saint Laurent and Bottega Veneta’s dark burgundy lip
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Draw Artist darcie brighamwatson Studio: iley jean makeup ileyjeanmakeup.blogspot.com on Kate Face: Boscia skin perfecting face primer, Revlon Colorstay foundation, Coastal Scents concealer palette, e.l.f. HD powder, i.d. mineral veil for bronzer. Coastal Scents blush palette. Eyes: e.l.f. eye primer, NYX 78 every color imaginable palette. Palladio eye ink liquid eyeliner in black for upper lash line. Palladio eyeliner pencil in black ink for lower lash line. Lashes: Maybelline Falsies mascara. Lips: NYX lip liner in Coral , Coastal Scents lip palette , e.l.f. lip gloss in Supermodel. Muse: Kate// LModelz
The graceful lines of Altuzarrasâ€™ black liner
Artist nashara mitchell Studio: ready to blush readytoblush.com on rama Face: Embryolisse lait creme concentre, foundation Makeup Forever face and body with Revlon photo ready airbrush as highlight. Eyes: Cailyn line fix gel eyeliner in black. Lips: MAC liners in nightmoth, basic red, process magenta, and hover. Makeup Forever color and gloss in forever flash color case. Obsessive Compulsive tip tars in melange and grand. Kissable Couture in David and Fantasies. Muse: rama// LModelz
The gradiating lip color of Gucci
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Paint Artist mindy kennen
Studio: Bobbi Brown Cosmetics, www.bobbibrowncosmetics.com on rama Face: Skin-Vitamin Enriched Face Base, Face Oil, Hydrating Eye Cream, Lip Balm SPF 15. Eyes: Eyeshadow in Toast, Longwear Gel Eyeliner in Denim Ink, Intensifying Longwear Mascara in Black. Brows: Mahogany eyeshadow and Natural Browshaper in Clear. Cheeks: Blush in Almond, Über Beige Pot Rouge for Lips and Cheeks. Bronzing Powder-Deep. Lips: Beige Lipcolor and Über Beige Pot Rouge for Lips and Cheeks. Muse: rama// LModelz
The rich, Metallic blue brushed eyes of Prabal Gurang
Photography by Rebecca Shehorn Hair Styling by Todd Shrider, He does Hair make-up by Darcie Watson Styling by Benjamin and Janneane Blevins Assistant Marc McCoy Model Alexandria//Heyman Talent
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Soft wash slim fit chest pocket shirt at Banana Republic. Grey Beckham Bodywear long johns at H&M.
this page: Pants by J Brand. Basic white v-neck and three-piece silver ring set, both at H&M. Biker Ankle Boot with Buckles by Zara. Suspended pyramid pendant necklace, Golden sun stretch studded bracelet and Yucca stretch studded bracelet, all at Urban Outfitters. Leather cuffs at Niche.
opposite page: Grey heather knit sweater, Black basic Knee-high tights and three-piece silver ring set, all at H&M. Leather like shorts, Leather cuffs and Yellow Boxie sling bag, all at Niche. Black wedges by Madewell. Urbanears headphones at Urban Outfitters.
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this page: Basic sling black heels at Zara. Leather cuffs at Niche. Black sparkle-studded clutch , Sequined leggings and 3-piece silver ring set, all at H&M. Speckled varsity jacket at urban outfitters. Black crop zippered top by American Apparel . Finalizer lacrosse stick by Warrior// Stylistâ€™s own.
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this page: Lace top by Madewell. Lace eye veil//Stylist’s own. Tiger medallion necklace, Gold cuff, three-piece gold ring set and Gold tiger ring, all at H&M. D&O quilted fanny pack and D&O pyramid studded hardshell clutch purse, both at urban outfitters. Heels: Jelly by Melissa & Vivienne Westwood//Stylist’s own. Black suit pants//Stylist’s own.
opposite page: Black blazer and Gold pyramid bracelet, both at H&M. Berkeley Bar Ring and Glendale Geo Drops Earring, both at urban outfitters. Basic sling black heels at Zara. Glasses by Titmus, Vintage//Stylist’s own. Sheer Embroidered Dress and Boxy Colorblock Bag, both at Niche.
Fashion for a Growing City 14 districts, a Carmel Boutique, delivers customers a one of kind experience. text by BRITTANY STREET + photograph BY Gabrielle Cheikh Providing exclusive pieces from Italy, Korea, and around the globe, 14 Districts offers fashion for the city of Indianapolis that can’t be found anywhere else. Well, at least not in the Midwest. 14 Districts stands strong by carrying fashion-forward pieces, and providing customers with an attentive and personalized shopping experience. Rebecca Hanson, owner of 14 Districts, studied Design Marketing at Parsons School of Design after graduating with a degree in Classical Studies from Dartmouth College. Hanson reveals that it was during her time at Parsons that she began to develop a business plan for a store. “But I knew all along I wanted to pursue something close to design,” she says. “Fifteen years later, 14 Districts is really just a reflection and product of those ideas over the years.” Apparently dissatisfied with holding only one degree, Hanson went on to earn Law and MBA degrees from Wake Forest University. She built a career in marketing at Proctor & Gamble, and used the experience to found a business based in Italy. Having recently left Proctor & Gamble, Hanson decided to build a fashion and retailing brand. She opened her first store, 14 Districts, in the Carmel Arts & Design District in 2011. The name, “14 Districts,” speaks to Hanson’s love of ancient Rome. “It was important to me that I hang onto something from my archaeology background. And it speaks to the many ‘personalities’ of the collections carried in the store,” Hanson says. With her experience and background creating globally recognized brands from the ground up, Hanson has an advantage above the rest. By utilizing her contacts in the New York and European fashion industries, Hanson brings unique items from around the world to 14 Districts. And knowing the designers personally has its advantages as well. “I met Angela [Caputi] when I was close to 8 years old,” Hanson says. “My family and I would travel to Italy and spend summers there. I remember my mother started buying pieces from Angela in her first shop there in Florence, and the relation continued over the years.” Because of the relationship Hanson’s family has kept for nearly 30 years, Caputi is able to provide her with customized pieces and colors just for 14 District customers. Hanson fell in love with the city of Indianapolis after visiting friends over the years who lived in the Carmel and Geist areas. After extensive market research, Carmel Arts & Design District caught her eye as the strongest fit for the target demographics that she had envisioned for the boutique. “Fifteen months ago, I drove by the space where I am at now and was sold on the location. Things moved pretty quickly from there,” Hanson says. 14 Districts opened in November 2011 offering exclusive selections from around the globe, including pieces from top designers such as Courage.b from Milan, Angela Caputi, and Lilly Pulitzer. Knowing that a strong inventory is not enough to cultivate a stable, repeat-customer base, Hanson maintains a strong commitment to delivering one-on-one personal service to each client. Not one to rest on her laurels, Hanson continues to plan for the future of 14 Districts. An online presence is next on the to-do list for Hanson as she seeks out new ways to market and expand her business. She also plans to showcase her own designs in the near future. “Of course, if another store opportunity comes along, the merchandise would be slightly different, but the customer service and exclusivity would stay the same,” Hanson says. “I knew if I left Parsons it would have to be for more than just one store, so the plan is to open plenty more.” Being a part of the community, giving back, and staying active outside of the store is another part of service Hanson feels is just as important as the service that is provided within. Partnering with, and being an active committee member of, Women for Riley and Women’s Fund of Central Indiana, Hanson has held special events and offered discounts in the store. Based upon the number of donations her customers provide, Hanson matches the total funds made during that period. “Growing the visibility of Women for Riley and Women’s Fund to my clients in the store is also a big goal of mine,” Hanson says. When you look great, you feel great. This store has been helping their customers attain this goal since opening last November, and they are passionate about helping the 86
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fashion-conscious woman make smart, modern, and compliment-inducing choices in a completely stress-free environment. 14 Districts is a boutique for the true fashion lover, and for anyone seeking one-ofa-kind pieces to set them apart from the rest. Hanson attributes her success to honesty with her customers: “There’s no hard sell. If you are not completely in love with something, I will tell you to pass.” Among the apparel lines carried in the store are: Shoshanna, Pink Tartan, Yoana Baraschi, Tibi, Henry & Belle jeans, Ecru, Eva Franco, Repeat Cashmere, DS Lab, Ali Ro, Before + Again and Three Dots. We will also carry accessories by Angela Caputi, Love Quotes, Courage.b, Monserat De Lucca, Lodis, iLuck, Fallon and Alisa Michelle. 14 Districts is located inside Sophia Square at 110 W. Main Street, Suite 104. 14 Districts is open 7 days a week, from 10am until 6pm Monday-Wed, Thursday 10am-8pm, Saturday 11am-5pm, and Sunday 12am–5pm. ✂
More than 20 million people visit Indianapolis annually, spending nearly $3.6 billion, generating $570 million in local and state taxes, and supporting 70,000 regional jobs. As a resident, youâ€™re also an Indy Ambassador. Invite your friends and family to our city. Treat them to the pickle plate at Black Market. Buy them a Sun King Osiris. Take them to a show at Radio Radio. Post about it. Tweet about it. Share the Indy love. Turn your friends on to Indy and into visitors, because a thriving city benefits us all.
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danisha greene. stylist.
Making Dynamic Moves, DaNisha Greene executes fashion on her own terms. text by Adrian Kendrick + photographs submitted
You haven’t been in the fashion industry very long. How did you make a name for yourself so quickly? Honestly, I just worked really hard at being the best I could, and when I came along, people just loved my work. I did local shows, and then editorials where I was not only the stylist, but also creative director. I would also travel to different fashion weeks and network with industry professionals. How do you continue to evolve with the fashion industry while still keeping your own aesthetic? This isn’t difficult for me, because having your own point of view in fashion and the arts is what sets you apart. I hate looking like everyone else, yet I don’t intentionally go out of my way to be different. I do recognize that working with others on projects is much different than being the creative director or stylist, because you do have to compromise to satisfy them. However, I find a way to give people what it is they desire while staying true to my aesthetic. How has your approach to fashion evolved over the years? I’m much more thoughtful, and I stay true to what I feel is fashionable. I like to push the envelope, mix and 88
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What or who influences you in fashion? I love vintage looks. I guess it’s because most things “vintage” are in style. I love style and think true style is timeless. It doesn’t matter when you wear, it’s always in if it’s stylish. Different designers such as Rachel Roy, Marc Jacobs, and Alexander McQueen are just a few of the designers who influence me. I’m definitely influenced by Italian Vogue, W, and V magazine editorials. I love stylists Rachel Zoe and June Ambrose’s approaches to fashion and business.
Image from campaign for Catou
Wardrobe Stylist and Fashion Consultant, DaNisha Greene has only been in the fashion industry professionally for two years. Yet glancing at her resume, you’d think that she’s been around much longer. A native of New York City, NY, Greene has brought her fashion intellect to the Midwest. While in high school, she confesses to being obsessed with Vogue Magazine, the Style Network, and America’s Next Top Model—she secretly wished she were a part of it all. Greene’s wish has come true in her own, unique way. Pattern was able to catch up with Greene and discuss her journey into fashion.
match prints and patterns, yet show that the story and chaos actually ties in together.
Any particular project you’re most proud of? Styling during New York Fashion Week is probably my most proud project, so to speak, and the highlight of my career because being a part of shows, and working with professionals in New York City who respect my talent and fashion knowledge, was very rewarding and validating. Tell me more about your New York Fashion Week experience. I participated last year for the spring shows, which was September of 2011. In New York and other major cities, fashion week shows are a season ahead. Local designer, Nikki Blaine of Nikki Blaine Couture, initiated the whole New York Fashion Week experience when she asked me to style for her. I decided to extend my trip so that I could style, attend shows, and network while I was there. I also styled for Althea Harper of Project Runway, Maria Michele by Maria Tumminello, Kachi Designs, Accessories by Nailah’s, Sukari New York, and Millinery by Ikasho. What do you hope to achieve with your work? I hope to inspire other girls not to let their reality destroy their dreams. I want to be extremely successful in the fashion industry and help other aspiring stylists achieve their goals.
As a wardrobe consultant, how do you suggest a woman taps into her personal style? First, she has to understand what compliments her figure and buy the right size. She shouldn’t be afraid of trying prints, colors, and trends; it just has to be right for her. If you like accessories, shoes, or handbags, then try to focus on one main item to let it be the focal point. You don’t have to match everything you’re wearing to be in style. When you’re wearing a bold print, make sure to break it up. I hate to see women with everything zebra print on from head to toe. When you are not indulged in fashion, what can we find you doing? I’m usually with my family, sorority sisters, and friends. My little brothers, Carmelo and Joshua, keep me busy. I love the Arts. And just having fun, whether it’s watching movies or wine tasting. I love to travel a lot and experience new places, too. ✂
Campaigns for Studio NTK and Lanae Stovall
photography by Katie Moon styling by Katie Marple hair by Tiffany Holmes make-up by Danelle French
LOCATION: Private Residence of Interior Designer, Ryan Paris. Solomon Jones Antiques and Interiors. models from Left to Right Chardeâ€™ Williams // LModelz, Nathan Weaver, Emily Nyberg // LModelz and Matthew Haughey
Weight of Whimsy
on Matthew Haughey Navy Slim Cut Custom Two-Piece Suit; Lime Green dress shirt; Blue Polka London Tie; Cuff Links. all at JBenzal.
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on Chardeâ€™ Williams // LModelz Cream Drop Waist Dress with Tulle Hem by Mystree at Girly Chic. Pink and Green Feather Necklace at Minx. Ivory Custom Cocktail Hat by Emilliner. Lace Gloves and Green Drop Necklace both at Redemption.
opposite page: on Emily Nyberg // LModelz Black & Gold Sequin Gown by Nox Nari Anna at Lesley Jane. Gold Band Bracelet at Redemption. Gold Veil Headband by Emilliner. Black & Gold Sequin Handbag at Macys. this page: on Kelly Oâ€™Roark // Heyman Talent Silver Sequin Gown at Lesley Jane. GrAy Ruffle Handbag at Eye Candy Boutique. Gray Feather Bloom by Emilliner.
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on Nathan Weaver Brown Gray Custom Three-Piece Suit. Pale Pink Dress Shirt. Brown and Pink BowTie. Cuff Links. all at JBenzal. on Kelly Oâ€™Roark // Heyman Talent Silver Sequin Gown at Lesley Jane. Cream Patent Leather Heels at Forever 21. Gray Feather Bloom by Emilliner.
midwestern magazine girl Indianapolis native Abby Gardner, gives us a peek into her life as site director of MarieClaire.com, and how she got there.
Text by Jenny Banner + photographs submitted I caught up with Abby Gardner during a meeting-free holiday week in July. She was in the Marie Claire offices on the 34th floor of the Hearst Tower overlooking Central Park. On a typical day, Abby steps out of her brownstone onto a tree-lined street in Park Slope, Brooklyn, and catches the F train to Manhattan. She sweats out a 45 minute SoulCycle (hyperlink) class, cleans up, hits the subway, grabs a coconut water at the chic Café 57, and arrives at the office around 10am. She happily admits, “We don’t have to come in early because after work events are pretty common.” This is a world away from Abby’s roots on Indy’s northside, but she dearly loves and cherishes her family and the values she developed at home. Abby has always been active, focused, and goal driven. She attributes her discipline and ability to take direction from the intense competitive swimming she did from grade school through high school. Early on, her career aspiration was to be a doctor of sports medicine, but she admits, “When I was young I had subscriptions to as many magazines as I could get. I was dedicated to Sassy magazine; it made my month when those issues arrived in the mail. I loved to read!” Her bookish ways took her from valedictorian of North Central to Duke University. In 1996, as a junior in college, Abby started thinking about what internship to set her sights on, and what kind of career she wanted. “I knew I wanted to work at a magazine, but didn’t see myself as a war journalist.” With her parents support, she moved into a tiny summer sublet that she found in the Village Voice, and secured an internship at Interview magazine. The art-filled Interview offices in Soho gave her exposure to the magazine industry. Getting a permanent spot in the industry became her new focus. “My parents were always supportive, but my dad would occassionally check in and make sure I wasn’t interested in a career in finance,” she added with a laugh. With her English degree in hand, Abby headed to NYC, well aware that the magazine industry demands that one must “be in the City to find a job in the City.” She started in a small Soho-based PR firm. One of her co-workers got the scoop that there was a beauty assistant position opening at the newly launched Jane Magazine. Jane Pratt, former editor-in-chief of Sassy, hired Abby as the photo and beauty assistant for the small staff. This gave her exposure to all aspects of fashion photography and beauty journalism. Beauty journalism had an immediate two-fold appeal for Abby, “It fed both sides of my brain: The color and trends are fun, and the product knowledge involves a lot of biology and science, which appeals to my nerdy side.” She found a mentor in Jane Larkworthy (affectionately known as “the other Jane”) who educated Abby in the art of carrying herself, and how to treat people in the industry. The early experiences and opportunities she had at Jane put her on a fast track to being a beauty editor. After a brief tour of duty at Allure, Abby took on the coveted title of Beauty Director at YM. At age 26, she found herself responsible for filling 20+ pages of content a month in the Age of Boy Bands, Britney Spears, and an innocent Lindsay Lohan. Looking back, Abby remarks that it was one of her favorite jobs, “We talked to the audience with a bit of sass, butYM was more mainstream than Sassy. We were talking to a teen market that was ruling... We had the most fun there.” In 2004, YM folded, and Abby left fashion editorial work, and found herself on the West Coast doing fashion PR. But, New York beckoned, as it so often does, and she dove into the world of online fashion editorial at the niche fashion industry site fashionweekdaily. com [hyperlink], which covered NY Fashion Week with print and online content. After five Fashion Week seasons, Abby moved to Fashionista.com. She admits, “Online seemed like a good place to be in 2008-2009, when staffers were being cut in print pubs.” With one other writer, Fashionista.com produced around 14 stories a day 98
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Q+A With Abby gardner What is your greatest extravagance?
Abby’s Fall Favorites
“There are so many great, wearable trends I’m excited about for fall.” Black and Blue www.marieclaire.com/fashion/trends/fall-2012-fashion-trends#slide-3 “I have always been a big navy fan, and I love mixing it with black. I also love this DKNY look because it mixes soft and hard fabric textures.” Burgundy www.marieclaire.com/fashion/trends/fall-2012-fashion-trends#slide-10 “Burgundy/Oxblood is the color of the season, and I would love to wear it in the form of this little Rag & Bone jacket.”
Probably how often I eat out...it’s the NY way. And I’m so lucky to eat in some of the best restaurants in the world on a regular basis. What is your most treasured possession? On the sentimental side, I would say old family photos and the blanket my aunt made me when I was born—it’s been with me everywhere!! Fashion-wise, it’s the first Chanel bag I ever bought. They used to have these amazing private sales for editors where you could get them for a STEAL. I treasure it. And it’s a classic. I can wear it forever and ever. What is your most marked characteristic? Hmmm, physically, probably my hair. Personality-wise, I hope it’s my sense of humor or my laugh!
Winter White www.marieclaire.com/fashion/trends/fall-2012-fashion-trends#slide-26 “There are few things more chic than a good winter white, and when I saw this look come down the runway at Derek Lam, I knew I had to have it.”
If you could change one thing about yourself, what would it be?
“My favorite beauty look on the NY runways was definitely at Michael Kors. The cheeks and skin were just glowing.”
What is the quality you most like in a man?
I think I’m definitely too hard on myself.
Sense of humor, for sure Who are your heroes in real life?
targeting twenty-somethings, and the fashion-obsessed. It was there that Abby realized the power of Twitter, and its ability to provide access through mobile pictures, videos, and conversation. “The fashion industry in NYC embraced Twitter before a lot of other industries did; it [Twitter] seemed to democratize the shows.” While at Fashionista.com, she got an offer in LA, and this West Coast gig came with corporate housing and the potential to impact 5 million readers a month. She took the opportunity of a lifetime, and joined Glo.com [hyperlink]. Abby built, launched, and syndicated online content for the BermanBraun [hyperlink] digital division. Although Abby loves LA., NYC is home, and in March 2011 she moved back to take the position of Site Director at Marie Claire. As Site Director, she is responsible for the online book, as well as overseeing all aspects of MC’s social media (Twitter, Facebook, Instagram, Tumblr, Pinterest, and more!). Abby says,“My role at Marie Claire is the culmination of every job I have ever had…I express my point of view, edit, promote, and determine online content, manage a team, work with other departments…I don’t have to sell myself on Marie Claire as a brand. I believe in it - we are going after the smart career woman.” She is speaking to an audience she knows well: Herself. When asked if being from the Midwest makes her different in the industry, Abby reveals that she’s not alone, and has a posse of “midwestern magazine girls” that she hangs out with regularly. What she attributes to her upbringing is a sense of work ethic, respect for people, a curiosity to learn, general kindness, and lack of attitude. All of these qualities mixed together with an unmatched wit, addiction to pop culture, supportive family, and celebrity list of industry mentors, make her a hometown inspiration from our point of view. . ✂
My parents are pretty darn awesome! And also my dear, dear friend Francesco Clark who suffered a spinal cord injury 10 years ago and instead of letting it take over his life has become a beauty mogul with his company Clark’s Botanicals, and an inspiration for everyone who knows him. He is at the forefront of treatment methods, and is an ambassador for the Reeve Foundation...and just one of the kindest and funniest people I’ve ever known. Where would you most like to live? I live in the greatest city in the world, New York. But I wouldn’t mind a vacation home in the Maldives, if we’re living out fantasies...and an apartment in Paris. Who is your favorite musician/band? My musical tastes run from the Grateful Dead to the newest teen pop sensation— yes I did have a “Call Me Maybe” ring tone for months. But I guess Coldplay is probably my most consistent go-to.
What’s in your purse? Monika Chiang wallet, Ray Ban Wayfarers, iPhone + head phones, iPad, Warby Parker glasses, Balenciaga makeup bag which holds NARS Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturizer, Kiehl’s sunscreen, Smith’s Rosebud Salve, Chanel Glossimer, NARS Heat Wave lipstick, Maybelline Mega Plush Volum’Express mascara, Maybelline Dream Bouncy Blush, L’Oreal black eyeliner, Clark’s Botanicals Lip Tint in Rachel Red and Moore Nude What was your favorite magazine when you were a tween or teen? Sassy. I’m fairly certain that magazine is why I ended up doing what I do. What TV show(s) are you currently addicted to? Oh lord...so many! I watch enormous amounts of television. Scandal, Revenge, Parks and Recreation, 30 Rock, Happy Endings, Homeland, Game of Thrones, Girls, Parenthood, The Vampire Diaries, Dance Moms (I can’t help myself!) What is the one beauty product you can’t live without? Sunscreen!!!!!! Which designers put on the best Fashion Week shows? My favorite NY shows season after season are Marc Jacobs, Rodarte, Proenza Schouler, Rag & Bone Who is the most down to earth celeb you have met/interviewed? I will say one of my favorite celeb meetings was probably Gwyneth Paltrow years and years ago. I’ve loved her since I was in college, and I know people have strong opinions about what she’s “like”. But we had dinner together, and she couldn’t have been more fun. On a more old school note, when I worked at Allure, I interviewed Victoria Principal about her skincare line, and I totally nerded out on her about my Dallas obsession as a kid. She was so lovely, and sent me the nicest note afterward!
Fashion mall rehab Courting retailers and creating a fresh, new mall experience text by Polina Osherov + rendering courtesy Simon malls The Fashion Mall wants to bring you more shopping and dining options, and their extensive expansion project promises to do just that. “We’re always evolving. You have to keep things fresh and exciting,” says Lea Willingham, the Mall’s manager, and a 22 year veteran of Simon Mall retail. In Indianapolis since 2000, Willingham says she loves the mall, and can’t imagine being any place else. She revealed to me that there have been significant changes in the tenant mix since her tenure began. The Apple Store, Crate & Barrel, Saks, and North Face are some of the notable tenants that have made the Fashion Mall their home since she took over. What about fashion retailers? Has she noticed a greater demand for upscale brands in the twelve years that she has been in this market? “Absolutely!” she responds emphatically. Burberry, Tiffany’s, Cole Haan, Anthropologie, Madewell, and Urban Outfitters had no presence in Indianapolis in 2000. Nor did Louis Vuitton, which now has a boutique inside Saks. I prod Willingham to see if the city’s fashionistas can expect the appearance of the much-hyped Zara as part of the wave of new retailers moving in, post-expansion. She laughs, shaking her head, “No”. So what exactly does it take to bring a new tenant to the Mall? Willingham talks me through the intricacies of the process, which usually takes 18-24 months, if not longer. From selling a particular retailer on the market and the mall, to negotiations, to finding the right spot within the center, to build out, integrating a new tenant is far more complex than I had imagined and definitely not for those of us who expect instant gratification. “We worked with Crate & Barrel for years and years and years to come to Indianapolis,” Willingham tells me with a smile as I ask her about the challenges of reeling in retailers who are new to our market, and perhaps skeptical about coming here. “They had a really strong base of customers from Indianapolis who would travel up to Chicago to see them, but we finally convinced them that we would be a good fit for them.” So, is Crate & Barrel glad that they expanded to Indianapolis? “So happy!”, says Willingham.
pattern issue no. 2
I whine a bit more about Zara and the fact that H&M steadily refuses to carry their celebrity designer capsule collections in the local stores. How can we let retailers know we want them here? Willingham says that she and her team pay close attention to all customer feedback whether it comes via Facebook, Twitter, directly from their website, or through comment cards available at the mall. Willingham personally reviews feedback to keep her finger on the pulse of the mall’s customers. Nothing makes her happier than to accommodate customer requests. She tells me that shoppers have been asking for healthier, more upscale dining options, and that they are now going to get them. When the re-imagined Fashion Cafe opens in early November, famished fashionistas can feast on sushi at Naked Tchopstix, dine on gourmet burgers, including vegetarian options at Elevation Burger, indulge in Pinkberry frozen yogurt, and get re-fuelled at Freshii on their offerings of freshly made salads, wraps, soups and burritos. Alas, getting national and international fashion brands to come to Indianapolis takes more convincing. While Simon Malls has a wide reach, and can bend the ear of literally any retailer, the mall giant has only so much pull. The rest is up to the customers themselves, and there is no great mystery about the way any city can get a brand’s attention - shop! The retailers look for feedback from customers in the same way as the mall, but ultimately it is the volume of sales that determines if a particular market is ready for a store. Internet orders are an especially strong argument for a retailer to open a brick and mortar location, so if there’s a store you want to come to Indianapolis, instead of going to Chicago or New York City to purchase items, consider ordering what you like online. The expansion, which was put on hold in 2009 because of the economy, was restarted in 2011, and will not be fully completed until 2013, but the wait is worth it. Based on the renderings I’ve seen and the addition of Free People, West Elm and LUSH to the tenant mix, it looks like The Fashion Mall is going to maintain its very legitimate claim to being a premier shopping destination not just in Indianapolis, but in the entire state. Zara or not, the expansion was prompted by demand from retailers, and is a hopeful sign that the city can expect to see fashion retail offerings continue to grow. ✂
I n d y, n t. S o m ethin gâ€™s diffe re ncy. a f g n i h t e m So N ew d re ss? H aircut?
IT ! E K I L E W hateve r it is.. . W L ove, S mallB ox
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HEIST & SEEK Photographed & Styled by Devon Ginn // Noved Foto Makeup & Hair by Jai Ruggs// Haus of Jah Models: Kirsten May & Jet Roulette photo Assistants: Jazmen Fox & Timothy Vance Wright Extras: Timothy Vance Wright & Ronson Rowley
on Kirsten Vintage beaded Laurence Kazar dress, Nude textured tights, Black peep toe Bordello pumps, all at The Snappy Dresser. on jet Pierre Cardin suit and Cream Kenneth Cole button up, both at The Snappy Dresser. Theory Ashby skinny tie at Bloomingdales. Shane & Shawn loafers + Ray-Ban sunglasses, stylistâ€™s own.
many thanks to Ronson Rowley for use of his cream Dodge Charger & taking a stiletto to the head for the team! Also, a special thanks to the Indy Indie Artist Colony for use of the elevator and basement!
pattern issue no. 2
pattern issue no. 2
Silver Elisabeth by Liz Claiborne top, and Mossimo pumps, both at The Snappy Dresser. Dolce & Gabbana glasses and Vintage costume ring, Stylistâ€™s own.
Red Nautica shirt and Tan Kenneth Cole slacks, both at The Snappy Dresser. Suspenders, Stylistâ€™s own.
on Kirsten Black & Red lace Victoria’s Secret Bra and Black panties, Stylist’s own. on jet Black Emporio Armani trunks and Emporio Armani zipper cuff, Stylist’s own.
pattern issue no. 2
on Kirsten Cream Sparrow half cardigan, Heather Gabriella high waisted slacks and Tan Bakers pumps, all at The Snappy Dresser. Gray Divided by H&M cowl neck sweater, Stylistâ€™s own. on Jet Cream Yves Saint Laurent button up and Gray Calvin Klein slacks, both at The Snappy Dresser. Brown H&M ankle boots and Kenneth Cole tote, Stylistâ€™s own.
pattern issue no. 2
FASHIONING A COMMUNITY
Image by Marc McCoy
Urban expert thinks Indy is onto something. About a year ago when Polina Osherov approached me about writing a post for a blog that was part of a new fashion movement in Indianapolis, I was taken aback. Fashion is one of the most centralized industries in the world. Even major cities like Chicago have struggled to build any sort of a fashion scene. Indy is not exactly known as a bastion of stylish dress, and I was pretty skeptical that the city had any hope of creating anything like a fashion scene. I was wondering what I’d even write. Yet now that I’m finally writing that piece here for Pattern, my perspective has changed a bit. When I lived in Chicago, I remember asking myself the question of what I would give up if I moved to Indianapolis. The answer from 15-20 years ago would have been huge. It wasn’t even easy to get a good cup of coffee in Indy back then. But when I made my more recent list, I only came up with two big things that were important to me: world-class opera and fashion. Today, I could actually scratch both of those off my list. Opera is taken care of by the Metropolitan Opera simulcast, which some people argue is better than being there. Some folks in Chicago have actually ditched their Lyric Opera tickets for it. Fashion is likewise far less of a problem. Thanks to internet retail, it’s easy to find pretty much anything I’d like online, and have it shipped to me. This has even changed the geography of retail. For example, one of the best denim stores in America is Context Clothing in Madison, Wisconsin, which carries all sorts of exclusives. That’s where I order my APCs, so who cares if there’s a store where I live that stocks them? Actually, the Internet itself is probably responsible for my own personal interest in fashion. I was never a stylish dresser –quite the opposite to tell you the truth– and during the dotcom era when most of us ditched our suits for khakis and polos, I particularly let myself go. After returning from the startup to the corporate world, my boss let it be known that my dress was not quite up to par. Shortly thereafter, I was assigned to a client that still wore suits. Most of mine were worn and in bad shape, having sat in my closet unused for years. Not knowing anything about suits, I decided I’d better educated myself about them, so I started reading and participating in internet forums dedicated to the art of classic men’s tailored clothing. Soon enough, I was emptying my bank account on handmade Italian shirts, seven-fold ties, vintage double-sided cuff links, and the like. While classic looks remain my favorite, from there it was only a short leap to the world of fashion proper. I particularly fell in love with fashion photography, perhaps less for the clothes themselves than for the incredibly evocative fantasy worlds created, and the glimpse we get as through a door into them. So today, with the Internet and magazines, supplemented with occasional trips to New York, I could continue to indulge my interests in fashion pretty much anywhere. But what good does that do you if you’re alone? It’s difficult to live life in a place where you don’t share the values or where no one there shares your interests or passions. It will slowly suck the life out of you. That’s where Pattern and Indy’s small but passionate fashion community come in. With real life events, stores, and things like Pattern paper, there’s more than just an ability to consume virtually, or wear clothes no one in town will ever recognize; there are people to talk to, people who share the same passion for fashion. That community is part of what makes Indianapolis a real city, and what makes it possible for people like fashionistas to live there -even if there isn’t a Barneys. As for Pattern paper itself, I am honored to contribute. When I got the first issue, I was frankly surprised at the high quality level of what was put out, especially after having just seen a major magazine launch in Chicago fall flat despite setting an extremely high ambition level, and being run by old magazine pros. I was very impressed with what Indianapolis was able to produce, particularly for a first issue. If Pattern paper is any guide, Indy’s fashion community will only continue to grow in the months and years ahead.
AARON RENN_URBAN EXPERT
PATTERN ISSUE NO. 2
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PATTERN ISSUE NO. 2
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Published on Oct 8, 2012
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