Holiday Travel from PASSPORT Magazine by passportmedia

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TRAVEL • CULTURE • STYLE • ADVENTURE • ROMANCE

PASSPORT

THE HOLIDAY ISSUE! GIFT GUIDE • NORTHERN LIGHTS • MEDITATION DESTINATIONS • SAN DIEGO • LAS VEGAS & MORE!

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Open space. Open minds.

What brings thousands of LGBTQ visitors to Key West each and every year? Is it the gay tours, the clothing-optional guest houses, the we-were-out-before-it-was-in ideology? Or maybe itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Key Westâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vibrant cultural scene: the eclectic art, the authentic gingerbread architecture or the colorful history on display at every turn. Whatever it is, with our open minds and wide-open spaces, Key West truly is an island unto itself. Stay safe when visiting The Florida Keys: Wear a Mask, Wash Hands, Social Distance. fla-keys.com/gaykeywest 305.294.4603

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PASSPORT 19

DECEMBER 2020 vol 19 issue 155

FEATURES IN SEARCH OF THE NORTHERN LIGHTS IN NORWAY

Norway is a prime location for viewing the aurora borealis. About half of its territory is inside the Arctic Circle, and it boasts great infrastructure like airports and harbors, tour companies, and unique sights.

ACQUA ALTA AND THE ART OF VENICE

For the anniversary celebrations of Tintoretto, da Vinci, and art collector Peggy Guggenheim, writer Arthur Wooten traveled to Venice, but a record breaking acqua alta flooded the city during his stay.

MEDITATION DESTINATIONS

Journey with us as we travel to Kyoto, Sedona, Riviera Maya, and the Maldives, four beautiful destinations that are not only perfect for meditation, they also make unforgettable vacation spots.

LAS VEGAS WANDERLUST

With so much to see, taste, explore, and experience, is it any wonder why Las Vegas continues to be one of the most popular destinations for travelers from around the world? Join us and find out!

BUSINESS CLASS

Did you know that Hard Rock International owns, manages, and licenses hotels, casinos, rock shops, and cafes in 76 countries spanning some 256 locations around the globe? We take a look at this amazing company as they prepare to celebrate their 50th anniversary in 2021. Also in this issue, get up close and personal with Tim Seelig, the Artistic Director and Conductor of the 42-year-old, trailblazing San Francisco Gay Men’s Chorus.

THE EXPERIENTIALIST WASHINGTON, D.C.

DEPARTMENTS WHAT’S NEW IN…VIENNA

If there’s anything that highlights Vienna as one of the great European capitals, it’s the forward-looking nature of this beautiful and exciting city.

PASSPORT CONCIERGE

Master of sophisticated pop-rock hooks, soaring vocals, and exquisite harmonies, singer-songwriter Rufus Wainwright joins us in the lounge.

GLOBETROTTING VALENCIA, SPAIN

2 PASSPORT I DECEMBER 2020

Hot type for the holidays and great reads for the savvy traveler.

TRAVELING GOURMET

Food and drink for your skin!

HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE

Passport’s guide to exciting new products for discerning shoppers.

WORLD EATS CHICAGO

Grab a fork and head for Barcelona, the city many call the gastronomic capital of Spain.

DREAMSCAPE 19

Valencia, Spain beckons travelers with a rich cultural center, captivating architecture, delectable cuisine, and beautiful beaches.

TRAVEL BOUND

Douglas Campbell at the Pendry San Diego is our insider guide for everything to do, see, taste, and experience in this stunning southern California destination.

VIP LOUNGE

Ten wonderful attractions to experience in the capital of the USA.

Situated in Palm Springs next to the majestic San Jacinto Mountains, the Santiago Resort is a men's-only desert oasis retreat.

ON THE COVER: photography Inigocia • location Lofoten, Norway

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editorial “I believe the world is one big family, and we need to help each other.” —Jet Li

s people around the world continue to face the ravages of COVID-19, it is the responsibility of everyone to help each other. Our lives and livihoods depend on us being there for our families, friends, neighbors, and the people who rely on us

as customers, to show our love and support. Like many other service oriented businesses, the travel industry is suffering. People around the globe are trying desperately to find the resources they need to reopen their shops, restaurants, hotels, galleries, and the many other small businesses that rely on tourism. As we wait for a COVID-19 vaccine to become available, people everywhere are doing their best to survive and plan for the future. In preparation for when international travel resumes, the writers and photographers at Passport magazine have been contacting people in places we have visited to find out if they are open and what we can expect when we get there. The good news is that many destinations in the USA, and around the world, are now open for business. All of these places must rely on local health organizations to monitor the coronavirus situation, but with safety precautions in place, and mandatory testing in many locales, travelers once again have options. Whether you feel comfortable traveling now, or you plan on waiting until a safe and effective COVID-19 vaccine is available, there is no time like the present to start planning for your next trip. To help you decide when and where to go, we compiled an amazing selection of journeys to satisfy your wanderlust. We visited each of these fascinating and inspiring destinations personally, and we recently contacted them to verify our information. Join us as we go in search of the northern lights in Norway; get our zen on at meditation destinations in Arizona, Mexico, the Maldives, and Japan; explore the natural and man-made wonders in the Las Vegas area; and brave the acqua alta to appreciate art in Venice. Also in this issue, get up close and personal with Rufus Wainwright; go behind the scenes of the San Francisco Gay Men’s Chorus with conductor Tim Seelig; explore the many pleasures of Vienna; and taste the culinary delights of Barcelona. Add to this our annual holiday gift guide, and you’re sure to want to pack your bags and show the world that we are indeed “one big family.” Bon Voyage! —Robert Adams

For daily updates about what’s happening in our world be sure to visit passportmagazine.com/blog You can also follow us on Facebook and at twitter.com/passportmag

PASSPORT I DECEMBER 2020

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W H E N YO U WA N T T O S P E N D T H E H O L I DAY S I N A P L AC E T H AT ’ S A G I F T I N I T S E L F, O N LY PA R A D I S E W I L L D O.

PA R A D I S E C OA S T. C O M / L G B T

F L O R I DA’ S PA R A D I S E COA S T

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DECEMBER 2020, ISSUE 155 Publisher DON TUTHILL

Editorial Director ROBERT ADAMS

Production/Design Manager DAN BOCCHINO

Assistant Editor WALTER BURNS

Web Associate PETER PARKER

Food and Wine Editor RICH RUBIN

Creative Director, Fashion CATHY TIMBERLAKE

Contributing Editors MARK CHESNUT JIM GLADSTONE KEITH LANGSTON

Contributing Writers ALLISTER CHANG KELSY CHAUVIN LAWRENCE FERBER STUART HAGGAS JASON HEIDEMANN JEFF HEILMAN JIMMY IM H. LUIZ MARTINEZ RICHARD NAHEM MARLENE FANTA SHYER DUANE WELLS MATTHEW WEXLER ARTHUR WOOTEN

Contributing Photographers DENNIS DEAN CHRISTOPHER PERRY JOHN LAU IAN ROBERT KNIGHT

Marketing Coordinator CHRISTOPHER MCNAMARA

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1-888-447-7287 MONDAY–FRIDAY, 8:30AM–4:30PM PST PASSPORT Magazine is a registered trademark of Q Communications, Inc. PASSPORT is published by Q Communications, Inc., 247 West 35th St., 12th Floor, New York, NY 10001. Published six times per year, annual subscription rate is $24.95 in the U.S.; Entire contents copyright ©2020 by Q Communications, Inc. ISSN 1531-0213. All rights reserved. No material may be reprinted or reproduced without written permission from the publisher. POSTMASTER: send address changes to: subscriptions@passportmagazine.com. Publication of the name or photograph of any individual or organization in articles or advertising in PASSPORT is not to be construed as any indication of the sexual orientation of such person or organization. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. 6

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WELLNESS RESOR T AND SPA â&#x20AC;¢ TEC ATE, BA JA C ALIFORNIA, MEXICO

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J n r wellne c v wellne c ver ti err ti i ti

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what’snew in... VIENNA, AUSTRIA by Rich Rubin

8 PASSPORT I DECEMBER 2020

MuseumQuartier in Vienna

Photo: lindasky76

t always makes me laugh when people think of Vienna as some stodgy, lost-in-the-past city. Sure, there are plenty of monumental buildings, from classical to Art Nouveau (known there as Jugendstil), but if there’s anything that marks Vienna as one of the great European capitals, it’s the forward-looking nature of the city. Yesterday’s ultra-modern becomes today’s classical, which gives way to tomorrow’s innovation. That’s always been the case, and as far as I can see, always will be. That, as much as anything, is what makes Vienna so exciting. At press time, Austria remains in a state of “closely monitored re-opening,” with visitors allowed only from certain countries. For the latest information on travel restrictions (as well as a ton of other helpful info), the Austrian National Tourist Office (www.austria.info), as well as the invaluable Vienna Tourist Board (www.wien.info/en), will tell you all you need to know. So let’s get ready for the day when everyone can visit there again, and we can explore all the hot new offerings as well as some classics. With marriage equality now fully achieved (the Austrian law went into effect in early 2019), Vienna is living up to its reputation as LGBTQ-friendly and welcoming. One thing that helps in this welcome is a real boom in new hotels, many of a boutique variety, and (an interesting development) often located outside the city center. With Vienna’s enviable public transportation system, there’s no need to stay at the heart of tourist central, and some of the most intriguing new spots are really just a few minutes’ ride from the center. Case in point: the Andaz Vienna am Belvedere (Arsenalstrasse 10. Tel: +43-1205-7744-1234. www.hyatt.com). When you walk into the hotel, located in the 10th district near Belvedere Castle, the first thing that grabs your eye is the palatial contour of the place. Then you notice the modern art covering the walls in a cheerful jumble of fashion, and the variety of seating areas. This boutique division of Hyatt

has attempted to imagine what Prince Eugen of Savoy (a major art collector who built the Belvedere as his summer residence, and purportedly one of the most famous gay men in Austrian history) might come up with if he built a castle in the 21st century. The result is this thoroughly modern but completely comfortable lodging, which opened in April 2019. Modern prints are scattered about my room’s walls (one sits on the floor), and there’s a classy, unfussy look, the windows opening onto a spectacular view of the city. The restaurant is lovely, and so is the little café, where you can get anything from coffee to pastries to salads. The rooftop bar is great, with couches and comfy chairs overlooking a panorama of this unique city. Best of all, though, is the staff: I’ve never seen a nicer hotel staff anywhere I’ve stayed, and trust me, I’ve stayed in a few places. Well, this is what you get when you stay in a boutique hotel fashioned with the inspiration of an Austrian gay prince! Nearby, you might notice a glossy black building with rows of golden circles running down its façade that somehow both blends in and stands out from the traditional buildings around it. You’ve found

Mooons (Wiedner Gürtel 16. Tel: +43-196226. www.mooons.com). The open plan lobby creates a welcome, spacious feeling, while the restaurant, with its Indonesian chef and large terrace, is not your typical Viennese eatery. From online check-in to well-equipped, stylish rooms, Mooons is every bit a 21st century hotel. From the rooftop bar, you get one of Vienna’s best panoramas, stretching all the way from the first district to the 22nd. Want an equally good view from your room? Choose one of the Deluxe rooms, where large, slanting windows look out onto “THAT” view. The hotel has been finished and at press time rooms were bookable for late October 2020, so it should be there for you by the time you read this! That’s not all: across the city in the 7th district, Max Brown (Schotenfeldgasse 74. Tel: +43-1-376-1070. www.maxbrownhotels.com), opened in mid-2019, is the fifth hotel of this boutique mini-chain and follows their philosophy of local inspiration with a plethora of works by Viennese artists. It’s all cool elegance as you enter the minimally furnished lobby, feeling like you’re walking into a stylish living room. Also, one of Vienna’s most exciting new

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what’snew in... (well, Landtmann runs the place after all), and you can choose from the large menu featuring everything from saffron fish soup to the “gentle chick,” perfectlygrilled chicken with potatoes and vegetables, and, of course, a mouth-watering array of pastries and cakes from Landtmann’s patisserie. Service is ultra-friendly, the food is good hearty fare, and— most importantly—everyone that’s there seems to be having a great time. For creatively upscale dining, you can’t beat the recently-opened Herzig (Schanzstrasse 14. Tel: +43-664-1150-

Tour Guide of the Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien as part of EuroPride 2019

Photo: Inspired By Maps

nce you’ve settled into your new boutique hotel, it time to try some of the plethora of new restaurants supplementing the tried-and-true favorites in Vienna. Seven North (Schotenfeldgasse 74. Tel: +43-1-376-1077. www.sevennorthrestaurant.com), in the new Max Brown Hotel, is a buzzy, friendly spot where you’ll embark on a culinary journey with a variety of small plates that demonstrate the chef’s wild creativity. You might start with a carpaccio of charry roasted beets, or spinach stems (yes, just the stems) steamed to melt-in-the-mouth softness, coming in a twisty envelope of parchment paper, and that’s just the beginning of this culinary adventure! As the menu says, “Being wild means that all the rules are changing.” In the charming Spittelberg area lies The LaLa (Neustiftgasse 23. Tel: +43-660-7107851. www.the-lala.com), a fun little vegan spot that opened in May 2019 next to Veganista, the well-known vegan ice cream joint. At The LaLa, all pale green and pink in a crazy Viennese fantasy of L.A, is casual and fun, with great, healthy food. “Beach Breads” (open face sandwiches) range from Bravocado (pesto, avocado, tomato, microgreens) to Nuts about You (nut butter, marmalade, and bananas), while “Fresh Rounds,” served with quinoa or brown rice, come in such varieties as Green Valley (kale, broccoli, avocado). Wash it down with The LaLa, a smoothie made of strawberries, cashews, and vanilla. A new bar/eatery, Bruder (Windmühlgasse 20. Tel: +43-664-135-1320. www.bruder.xyz) has a long table at the middle and a bar to the right. Shelves and window ledges are covered with concoctions of fruit soaking in alcohol for their house-made infusions that are used in ultra-creative cocktails. The food is just as inventive as the libations, and the originality that starts with the drinks continues through the small plates you’ll have alongside them. Das Bootshaus (an der unteren

Alten Donau 61. Tel: +43-1-24-100811. www.dasbootshaus.at) is run by the owners of Cafe Landtmann, a landmark Vienna coffeehouse, who in 2017 took over this spot. It lies along the “Old Danube,” a former branch of the Danube that’s now a green area and so quiet I can’t believe it’s only a half hour by subway and long walk from the city center. Das Bootshaus’ interior looks like a cross between a traditional coffeehouse and a fisherman’s cabin, but on a nice day it will be deserted, as everyone will be sitting on the landing overlooking the water. The food is great

Café Central

Photo: Giannis Papanikos

restaurants is here, but more on that later. Other entries in the hotel boom include the totally remodeled Almanac Vienna (Parkring 14-16. www.almanachotels.com), opening soon right on Vienna’s famous Ring, and the Rosewood Vienna (Graben 21. www.rosewoodhotels.com) slated for a 2022 opening in the city center, with 99 rooms and suites planned for this historic 18th century building.

DECEMBER 2020 I PASSPORT

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what’snew in...

Photo: Milan Gonda.

Exhibit at Leopold Museum

Secession Building

ished coffeehouse/café/bar/gathering place for the community and open since 1896, has been renovated and enlarged-but don’t worry, its amazing mirror (claimed to be the largest in Europe after Versailles) is blessedly intact! Vienna might have a dynamic party scene (for the latest news consult www.facebook.com/lgbtvienna), but I still find myself going back to restaurants like Motto (Schönbrunnerstrasse 30. Tel: +43-1-587-0672. www.motto.wien) and its sister restaurant right on the Danube canal, Motto am Fluss (Franz Josefs Kai 2. Tel: +43-1-2525510. www.mottoamfluss.at), both longtime community favorites with creativelyprepared food and warm welcome. Other must sees include such perennially popular bars as the stylish Felixx Café and Bar (Gumpendorferstrasse 5. www.felixx-bar.at) and local hangout Village Bar (Stiegengasse 8. www.villagebar.at). Village just underwent a renovation in October, so even the long-familiar spots can also be totally up-to-date!

Photo: Bertl123

300. www.restaurant-herzig.at), for a wide and ever-changing array of culinary originality. Chef Sören Herzig has fun with the menu, which ranges from lobster with pumpkin and coriander capers to hake, a mild fish enlivened with zucchini, leeks, and smoked fish velouté. For greater exploration, order one of the seven-course meals, which you can get with accompanying wines or juices. If you’d like a light meal in an LGBTQ setting, check out the queer community café other must sees include, Villa Vida (Linke Wienzeile 102. Tel: +43-720-519554. www.villavida.at), which opened in June

PASSPORT I DECEMBER 2020

2019 in the well-known Türkis Rosa Lila Villa, Vienna’s LGBTQ community center, whose pink (rosa) and purple (lila) exterior let you know you’ve arrived at a welcoming spot. It’s a true community hangout, comfy, friendly, and accessible. Take a seat in the cozy interior or, in nice weather, the lovely garden. Long the go-to place for the community, it’s now a place to grab a bite as well, particularly enjoyable during the Queens Brunch, a new and super-fun offering that pairs Sunday brunch with a drag show. In a similar familiar-meets-new, Café Savoy (Linke Weinziele 36. Tel: +43-1-5811557. www.cafe-savoy.at), long a cher-

s you can see, Vienna is always a combination of new developments and revisiting old favorites. Sometimes you can get both in one, as with the Freud Museum (Berggasse 19. Tel: +431-319-159614. www.freud-museum.at), which reopened in September 2020 after a major overhaul that had closed the museum since mid-2019. Among other new developments is the May 2020 opening of the Albertina Modern (Karlsplatz 5. Tel: +43-1-534-830. www.albertina.at) a second branch for this renowned museum in an 1865 building on Karlsplatz (there’s that old/new thing again). The exhibitions of modern and contemporary art have a major (though not exclusive) focus on Austrian artists. Also new in the art world is the stunning rooftop MQ Libelle (Museumsplatz 1. Tel: +43-1-523-5881. www.mqw.at), which opened in September on top of the Leopold Museum. This high design arts/cultural space shaped like a dragonfly (libelle in German), in the heart of the MuseumsQuartier (that’s the MQ part), offers a spectacular new spot. Have a drink while admiring amazing views over the city! No trip to Vienna is complete without a stop back in Stephansplatz, where the cathedral remains as amazing as ever with its multi-colored patterned roofs and its spires, reflected in the curving glass

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Albertina Modern

façade of the Do & Co Hotel across the way. Then, needless to say, the ritual stop at glorious Café Central (Herrengasse/Strauchgasse. Tel: +43-1-533376361. www.cafecentral.wien), a traditional coffeehouse (and Leon Trotsky’s favorite hangout) for a coffee, oh excuse me, grosser brauner (Vienna has its own specialized coffeehouse language, and you’d do well to learn it). Then, a trip by the Secession Building (Friedrichstrasse

12. Tel: +43-1-587-5307. www.secession.at) with its glorious golden dome and Klimt’s Beethoven Friese inside, and in keeping with the Nouveau theme, a visit to the Karlsplatz metro station and Art Nouveau giant Otto Wagner’s stunning entrance pavilions. I mean, this is a city where a subway entrance is a major architectural landmark! Another must is a trip to House of Music (Seilerstätte 30. Tel: +43-1-513-4850. www.hausder-

Photo: Mistervlad

Hundertwasserhaus

musik.com), which celebrated its twentieth anniversary in 2020, for a journey through the world of sound and melody. I round out my “favorites” list with a stroll by Hundertwasserhaus (Kegelgasse 3739. www.hundertwasser-haus.info), an apartment building by visionary artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser that fills an entire block with blazing color and phantasmagoric shapes. After taking about my millionth photo, I head over to Kunst Haus Wein (Untere Weissgerberstrasse 13. Tel: +43-1-712-0491. www.kunsthauswien.com), the stunning museum devoted to this one-of-a-kind creator. As I think about all my times in Vienna, I’m once again struck by the combination of the classical and the contemporary. If you really still think Vienna is a stodgy old city, there’s nothing I can do except urge you to visit (because if you think that, chances are you haven’t been there). What’s now considered “classical” was at the time just as cutting edge as today’s new places: the entire Art Nouveau movement was a rebellion, after all (even the word “jugendstil” means “youth style”), and as every decade goes by, Vienna continues the cycle that keeps moving in ever-more exciting ways. Vienna never stands still, and that’s what gives it such vibrancy.

DECEMBER 2020 I PASSPORT

Photo: Kagan Kaya

what’snew in...

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passportconcierge DOUGLAS CAMPBELL PENDRY SAN DIEGO, CONCIERGE by Jimmy Im ravel has always been part of Douglas Campbell’s life. Born in Honolulu, and adopted as a baby by a Naval family, he’s lived in many U.S. cities, including Seattle, Corpus Christi, and Houston before settling in San Diego when he was nine years old. But even after graduating high school at 18, he continued to travel, living in various cities, like Reno, Palm Springs and Chicago, though last year, he returned to the city he officially calls home: San Diego. “I was lured home by my friends and family and less extreme weather,” Campbell says. Perfectly sunny, year-round weather may have been Campbell’s destiny, but he didn’t sacrifice his true calling: working in hospitality. Campbell is a member of Les Clefs d’Or, the highest recognition for professional service standards with concierges at luxury hotels, a distinguished honor he’s held for more than a decade. “I’ve worked in hotels since 1996, and I’ve been a full-time hotel concierge since 2002,” Campbell recalls. “My mentor from the beginning was the late Marjorie Silverman, the former president of Les Clefs d’Or, who told me she postponed her retirement until I had secured my promotion from an assistant concierge to a lead concierge, which really meant a lot to me.” Campbell, who became a member of Les Clefs d’Or in 2008, says it has been a rewarding experience. “Being able to reach out for help from a worldwide network of concierges is invaluable. I travel as often as I can, and through Les Clefs d’Or, I’ve spoken by phone or email with concierges that I would years later meet on trips to places like Shanghai, Budapest, London, and Tokyo.” Being a member of the prestigious association helped Campbell secure a position at Pendry San Diego. “There really wasn’t a backup property that I was interested in. I love how Pendry merges the relaxed charm of a boutique hotel with the service values of a luxury hotel.” Douglas is one of two openly gay concierge at Pendry San Diego, both of whom are members of Les Clefs d’Or. The other concierge is

12 PASSPORT I DECEMBER 2020

Justin Sondgeroth, who represented the United States in Dubai at the annual Young Leader Awards where he was voted among the top five concierge around the world. He was recently recognized by the local San Diego hospitality community with a Gold Key Award. Pendry San Diego, opened in 2017 in the Gaslamp Quarter, offers stylish rooms, six food and beverage outlets, including a nightclub, and a rooftop pool. It’s also located near various LGBTQ establishments. “Gay life in San Diego is very diverse, from the bar scene in Hillcrest to Blacks Beach and Balboa Park, to the freedom of not needing to frequent exclusively gay businesses to feel comfortable,” says Campbell. Where are the coolest places to go for cocktails? There’s a big influx of speakeasies happening in San Diego, and I love a bar with a hidden entrance, so I like places like Raised By Wolves (4301 La Jolla Village Drive, Ste #2030, Tel: 619-629-0243. www.raisedxwolves.com), a cocktail lounge that sits beneath a dramatic Art Nouveau steel gazebo, concealed behind a fireplace in a Victorian-era liquor store, and tucked away in a modern shopping mall. False Idol (675 W. Beech St., No phone. www.falseidoltiki.com) is one of my favorites as

well. It’s a tiki bar hidden within the bustling Craft & Commerce restaurant and bar in Little Italy. The bartenders there seem to genuinely love their job, including creating each drink’s individual garnish. Several times a night a tropical “storm” blows through the bar. Cache (1027 University Ave., No phone, www.barcache.com), is a speakeasy in the heart of the “gayborhood” with a vintage Parisian feel, tucked behind a freezer door at the back of the not-for-profit taco hot spot, Taco Libertand, which shares the lively block of Hillcrest’s University Avenue that’s bookended by Rich’s (1051 University Ave., Tel: 619-578-9349. www.richssandiego.com), a popular gay nightclub and Flicks (1017 University Ave., Tel: 619-297-2056. www.sdflicks.com), a gay video and karaoke bar. San Diego is also known for its abundance of craft breweries and tasting rooms (over 200!), so I’d be remiss not to mention them, including Hillcrest Brewing Company (1458 University Ave., Tel: 619-269-4323. www.hillcrestbrewingcompany.com). HBC calls itself “the first gay brewery in the world” and offers brews like Banana Hammock Scotch Ale and Crotch Rocket Irish Red, as well as thin-crust pizza. They also offer daily “Hoppy Hour” specials starting at 3 PM. I also love Border X Brewing (2181 Logan Ave., Tel: 619-501-0503, www.borderxbrewing.com) in Barrio Logan. It offers unique Mexican craft beers like Horchata Golden Stout and features authentic street tacos in its back beer garden, as well as popular events like Loteria night. What are the best restaurants for a romantic dinner in the city? For traditionally romantic, as in white table cloth and a sweeping view, Mr. A’s (2550 Fifth Ave., Tel: 619-239-1377, www.asrestaurant.com) has been a top choice since 1965, looking out over the city and the bay from atop Banker’s Hill. The Maine Lobster Strudel is a standout with a

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passportconcierge flakey phyllo dough and a savory cognac lobster sauce. The Marine Room (2000 Spindrift Dr., Tel: 858-459-7222, www.marineroom.com) in La Jolla also offers a formal dining experience, with an unparalleled view of the Pacific Ocean, as waves actually crash against its windows at high tide. The restaurant has a fantastic lobster bisque, which is also available on their happy hour menu, that takes place in the lounge from 4 to 6 P.M. every day (except Saturday). For something more relaxed and intimate, I like two charming neighborhood Italian spots: the romantic Alexander’s (3391 30th St., Tel: 619-281-2539. www.alexanderson30th.com) in North Park, or the rustic and homey Civico 1845 (1845 India St., Tel: 619-431-5990. www.civico1845.com) in Little Italy. I also love the upstairs outdoor seating at Little Italy’s Born & Raised (1909 India St., Tel: 619-3202-4577. www.bornandraisedsteak.com), especially if the sky is turning pink and orange at sunset. The entire restaurant is quite an experience, with attentive service, excellent steaks dry-aged in-house, and showy touches like ice cream made with dry ice, table-side. Who serves the greatest weekend brunch in town? If you’re staying downtown, I’d say Provisional (425 Fifth Ave., Tel: 619-738-7300. www.pendry.com/san-diego/dining/provisional), right here at Pendry San Diego, which serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner using mostly locally sourced, organic ingredients. It’s so nice to be able to genuinely love the food at our own outlets, and it seems like the example that we set is raising the bar in the neighborhood. Our ostrich egg breakfast has become world-famous! If you’re waking up elsewhere, I like Fort Oak (1011 Fort Stockton Dr., Tel: 619-7223398. www.fortoaksd.com) in Mission Hills, where most dishes are wood-fired, and the glass walls slide open for diners to enjoy our city’s year-round great weather. The little jewel box of a front bar is the former showroom of a restored 1940s Ford dealership, so it retains that atomic-age feel. And for something with a bigger gay following, I like insideOut (1642 University Ave., Tel: 619-888-8623. www.insideoutsd.com). My friend Matt Ramon’s lively Hillcrest eatery with a California and Mediterranean-inspired menu is set around a shimmering pool in a chic, open-air atrium. The bar is always lively,

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and the design of the men’s bathroom is a conversation starter. It’s great for dinner too. My favorite dish is the blackberry-braised pork belly. What are the hottest shows in town, and how do I get tickets? Touring productions of Broadway shows pass through frequently, but often productions at regional theaters like the Old Globe Theater (1363 Old Globe Way, Tel: 619-234-5623. www.theoldglobe.org) in Balboa Park and La Jolla Playhouse (2910 La Jolla Village Dr., Tel: 858-550-1010. www.lajollaplayhouse.org) can become the hottest ticket in town, when they debut new works. And, of course, your concierge can secure the best seats!

What museums are a must see for visitors? At 20 stories tall, The USS Midway Museum (910 N. Harbor Dr., Tel: 619-544-9600. www.midway.org) holds a commanding presence on the embarcadero, just south of the Broadway Pier. It was the United States’ longest operating aircraft carrier (almost 50 years), and now welcomes over a million visitors every year as a museum. TripAdvisor recently named the museum the top tourist destination in California. The Museum of Us (1350 El Prado, Tel: 619-239-2001. www.museumofus.org) opened in 1915 as a temporary exhibit of anthropology beneath the iconic California Tower, but when the Panama-Pacific Exhibition ended, the exhibit remained and

Pendry

Pendry Pool

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passportconcierge If you’d prefer to get your cardio in in the great outdoors, a popular spot to run is he stairs that traverse the San Diego Convention Center, (111 W. Harbor Dr., Tel: 619-525-5000. www.visitsandiego.com) from the Gaslamp side to the bayfront and back. It’s sort of San Diego’s equivalent of the Rocky Steps in Philadelphia. Or, if you’d rather escape the crowds, you can run the tranquil two-mile stretch of Black’s Beach (accessed from the Torrey Pines Gliderport, 2800 Torrey Pines Scenic Dr.), between La Jolla Shores and Torrey Pines, where swimwear is optional!

Photo: Steve Heap

Cabrillo National Monument

was expanded into a permanent museum of its own. Orson Welles shot exterior scenes of the tower’s ornate Spanish architecture for his classic “Citizen Kane” in 1940.

Photo: f11photo

Which guided tours do you recommend most often to your guests? We mostly send our guests on private tours, tailored to their interests, so Another Side of San Diego Tours (300 G St., Tel: 619239-2111. www.anothersideofsandiegotours.com) is great for building the perfect experience, whether walking, biking, kayaking, Segways, speedboats, off-roading, or minibuses. They can focus on our guests’ specific needs, with guides specializing in things like architecture, history, culinary tours or adventure sports. Where can you go to get the best views of the city? San Diego has no shortage of great city views, from rooftop lounges like The Nolen (453 Sixth Ave., Tel: 619-796-6536, www.thenolenrooftop.com), and 5th and Sky (701 5th Ave., Tel: 619-814-2225. www.theatrebox.com/5th-sky), but the best view in my opinion is looking back at the skyline from across the water, either from Coronado Island (ferries run hourly from the foot of Broadway, or from the 5th Avenue Pier), or from Cabrillo National Monument (1800 Cabrillo Memorial Dr., No phone. www.nps.gov/cabr), at the tip of Point Loma. This mostly undeveloped peninsula, which commemorates the arrival of the first European expedition in 1542, is a great spot to escape the crowds, explore the Old Point

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Loma Lighthouse (built in 1854), and hike down to the tide pools below. Where are the best places to workout? FIT (www.fitathletic.com) is an upscale gym with city locations including the East Village, Little Italy, and Mission Beach. The East Village location (350 Tenth Ave., Tel: 619-762-3234) is adjacent to Petco Park, home of the San Diego Padres, and the Mission Beach location (3115 Ocean Front Walk, Tel: 858-879-6812) is adjacent to historic Belmont Park. Belmont Park opened as an amusement park in 1925, and you can still ride the almost 100-yearold oceanfront rollercoaster The Giant Dipper, or swim in The Plunge pool, where the locker-room scenes from Top Gun were filmed in 1985. San Diego Skyline

If someone is looking for a full-service spa, where do you send them? Spa Pendry (550 J St., Tel: 619-738-7065, www.pendry.com/san-diego/wellness) is the best of the best, if you’re staying downtown. They offer organic herbal steam showers, tranquil treatment rooms, relaxing garden cabanas that feel a world away from the bustling Gaslamp Quarter around you, and a refreshing rooftop pool. The adjacent lunch restaurant, The Pool House offers an excellent menu of local favorites. I’m originally from Hawaii, and I love the Big Eye Tuna Poke! Designer labels for less—do you have any suggestions for the smart shopper? Every major city has outlets, and sometimes you find amazing deals, but if you’re only in San Diego for a day or two, I’d explore neighborhood consignment stores first. Leo Hamel Boutique (1851 San Diego Ave., Tel: 619-333-3520. www.designerfashionconsignments.com/san-diego/shop-preowned-vintage) specializes in designer labels

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passportconcierge like Gucci, Louis Vuitton and Chanel at affordable prices in its popular consignment store, located between Old Town and Little Italy.

What are the most popular gay dance clubs in the city? Rich’s (1051 University Ave., Tel: 619578-9349. www.richssandiego.com) is still the gold standard after nearly 30 years. I was actually a doorman there in the mid-90s, and the DJs (including my best friend DJ Taj) still pack the dance floor every night, Thursday through Sunday. They frequently have guest performers and over-the-top events, with state-of-the-art lighting and sound, and a women’s night on Thursdays. Where can someone go at 3 A.M. for a good meal? A good meal at 3 A.M. for San Diegans usually means an all-night taco stand or a vintage diner. Saguaro’s (3753 30th St., Tel: 619-2917746. www.saguarosmexicanfood.com) is a drive-through taco stand in North Park that never closes. Rudford’s (2900 El Cajon Blvd., Tel: 619-282-4485. www.rudfords.com) has offered 24/7 diner fare in North Park since 1949, and Lestat’s (1045 University Ave., Tel: 619-564-6616. www.lestats.com) is an allnight coffee house next to Rich’s in Hillcrest, which also has locations in Normal Heights and University Heights. And Brian’s 24 (828

Photo: Kenny Tong

What are the best gay/lesbian bars in the city? If you’re looking to be in the center of everything, Flicks (1017 University Ave., Tel: 619-297-2056, www.sdflicks.com) has been a staple of Hillcrest for decades. It’s an always-lively video bar that fills to capacity on weekend nights. I really like Number One Fifth Avenue (3845 Fifth Ave., Tel: 619-299-1911. No website), which has operated in Hillcrest since the early 80s, wedged in a tree-lined stretch of shopping on Fifth Ave. The bar offers popular theme nights like karaoke on Thursdays and a great Sunday afternoon tea-dance on the back patio. And for a historic watering hole, you can’t beat The Hole (in the Wall) (2820 Lytton St., Tel: 619-996-9000. www.theholesandiego.com), which is nearing its 100th anniversary, having been a local institution in the Point Loma area since 1924. Its Sunday Funday event always fills its multilevel outdoor space.

San Diego Museum of Us

Sixth Ave., Tel: 619-702-8410, www.brians24.com) in the Gaslamp is notable for its enormous mahogany bar, which was once owned by Joan Crawford. What is the iconic tourist souvenir, and where will we find it? San Diego is such a multifaceted city, from its Hispanic and Latin influenced architecture and cuisine, to its expansive beaches and its draw as a surfer’s paradise. It has a world-renowned zoo and park system and abundant sea life, and it’s known for its military presence, so finding an iconic souvenir depends on what you think is your favorite thing about San Diego. One option that represents this diversity is SoCal Candle Company (various locations, www.socalcandleco.com), which is locally owned and operated, and pours soy wax candles using essential oils to create scents representing San Diego’s different neighborhoods. If it’s a souvenir for yourself, it’s nice to leave with a scent tied to your specific experience. They sell them all over town, including the Ace Hardware stores in Hillcrest and in the Gaslamp Quarter. I also love buying vintage postcards for people at antique shops like the ones in the Ocean Beach Antique District (4926 Newport Ave., Tel: 619-2236170. no website), instead of sending modern mass-produced postcards. Please finish this sentence: Don’t leave the city without… Visiting the charming Little Italy neighborhood, which has become the new hub for chic

restaurants and trendy lounges, yet retains its old-world charm with tree-lined streets and piazzas to sit and enjoy a gelato and people watch. The weekly Little Italy Mercato Farmer’s Market (Saturdays from 8am to 2pm on West Date St. between Front and Kettner, www.sandiegomarkets.com/markets) is one of the most popular farmer’s markets in the city, offering over 150 vendors selling fresh produce, meat, flowers, artisan crafts and more. Spending at least a couple hours in La Jolla, from shopping in the boutiques along Prospect Street to strolling along the oceanfront walk above La Jolla Cove to visiting the Cave Store (1325 Coast Blvd., Tel: 858-459-0746. www.cavestore.com) with its 145 steps descending down through a sandstone tunnel to a sea cave where waves have crashed below the viewing platform since 1902. Tasting a fish taco at Lola 55 (1290 F St., Tel: 619-542-9155. www.lola55.com) in the East Village, which was recently awarded a Bib Gourmand nod by Michelin, or ¡Salud! (2196 Logan Ave., Tel: 619-255-3856. www.saludtacos.com in Barrio Logan. I’m a fan of every taco both places offer, but fish tacos specifically are a San Diego tradition. Exploring Balboa Park and strolling through its extensive gardens and sprawling museum campus. This 1200-acre park is one of the oldest public parks in the nation, and many of its buildings were constructed for the 1915 Panama-California Exposition, which celebrated the opening of the Panama Canal.

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Photo: V. Tony Hauser

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viplounge RUFUS WAINWRIGHT

fter establishing himself as a master of sophisticated pop-rock hooks, soaring vocals, exquisite harmonies, and intelligent, sometimes confessional and out-and-out queer lyrics, singer-songwriter Rufus Wainwright (rufuswainwright.com) confounded expectations by delving into opera a decade back. His 2009 original opera, Primma Donna, set in 1970 Paris and featuring a forgotten, aging soprano who prepares to reprise the role that first elevated her to fame, premiered in Manchester, England. It was later revised and released as a 2015 recording and film. 2016 saw Wainwright share an even more eclectic project of adapted Shakespeare sonnets with guests including Helena Bonham Carter, William Shatner, and Wainwright’s fellow musician sibling, Martha Wainwright. Yet despite 2020 being an extremely abnormal year by all accounts, the Hollywood-based Wainwright has finally looped back to the richly mounted pop tunes that first put him on the map with Unfollow The Rules. It’s a breath of comforting, familiar, fresh air. The son of prolific folk singers Kate McGarrigle and Loudon Wainwright III (they divorced when he was three), Wainwright spent much of his childhood being raised by his mother in her native Montreal and was out of the closet by his teen years. Discography standouts include his self-titled 1998 debut album, 2001’s Poses, 2003’s Want One and 2004 companion album Want Two, 2007’s Release The Stars (executive produced by Pet Shop Boys’ Neil Tennant), and 2012’s Out of the Game. Always frank about his personal life (from being raped at 14 years old by a man he picked up in London, to years of sexual and drug-filled decadence which he described to the New York Times as a descent into “gay hell”), these days he’s most apt to discuss politics and his family, including husband of eight years, Jörn Weisbrodt, and 9year-old daughter Viva (whom Wainwright conceived via artificial insemination with Leonard Cohen’s daugther, Lorca). In a virtual visit to Passport’s VIP Lounge, Wainwright touched on travel, his new album “Unfollow The Rules,” his pandemic beard, and what a Rufus Wainwright B&B would be like.

It's good to finally have you back in the pop music realm, Rufus! II appreciate your patience and hope I have delivered something that appeases your thirst! Was there a bit of Freddie Mercury and Queen influence on your new Album? Well, there’s definitely a sort of abandon shall we say, in terms of the various emotions I’m putting out whether “Hatred” or “Early Morning Madness.” I’m not at all subtle and my vocals have prowess on this record. Thanks to producer Mitchell Froom, his production really supports that and isn’t competing with my voice, and that makes it even more dramatic, there’s a clarity to it. How “queer” is this album on a scale of 1-10? I would give it an eight. Above average. If you were going typically queer, I would relate maybe two or three numbers. Some of the songs are decidedly un-queer, because they refer to wholesome American musical styles whether country or Joni Mitchell. A good variety. “This One’s For The Ladies (That Lunge!)” is pretty queer. Were there any extra tracks left off the album that might turn up later on? Yeah. I’m always singing and in the studio recording, so there’s a huge amount of product that will be released over the next couple of years. I’m doing a thing with [audiobook platform] Audible, and I was able to do these fantastic live shows right before the pandemic at a little venue in L.A. of me singing my favorite songs from Bacharach to Verdi, and original material. You, your father, and sister all performed musical numbers in Martin Scorsese’s 2004 Howard Hughes biopic, The Aviator. Whose life story would you most love to see portrayed in a movie? Cary Grant. I think a lot about Hollywood because I’m here, and I’m fascinated still by a lot of old stars. If there was a real dark, truthful interpretation of both Grant’s homosexual tendencies (he lived with a man for many years) and his acid trips later in life there could be a pretty racy story in there. Sadly I don’t think I could play him, though. I’m good looking, but not that good looking.

Who would you like to play you if your life story was brought to screen? I’ve been watching The Politician on Netflix and the lead of that, Ben Platt, I don’t know if he could play me, but it’s funny how in the series he becomes a singer-songwriter for a brief time. And it’s like he becomes a loser when he’s a singer songwriter in New York, and I’m like, ‘he becomes Rufus Wainwright after all his ambitions are dashed and he’s failed in everything!’ (laughs). But as far as playing me, for a long time I thought Jonathan Rhys Meyers. He may be a little too old now to play the young Rufus, but he could be interesting and he can sing. There was a time we saw similarities between us. And i’m very good friends with Darren Criss and he’s a fantastic actor. Would you like to see a Broadway musical built around your songs? That’s actually something we’re investigating now. It makes sense to dream up a bunch of new projects to be produced in a couple of years and have them ready to go [when the pandemic is over], and a Broadway production with my songs is in order. What’s the strangest or totally off the mark interpretation you’ve had someone relay back to you about your songs? For me, Want Two’s “The Art Teacher” always perplexes me. It’s a well-known song to my fans and people always think it’s something I wrote about myself, and I’m like, this song is about a young girl. Yes, there is a young girl within me but I never went to Catholic girl school. I never went that far! Darren Criss makes an appearance on the standalone 2018 single, “Sword of Damocles,” which you directly addressed to Donald Trump and took a critical stance towards. Would it be a badge of honor to be hate tweeted by Trump in response? I would be over the moon with joy. I must say, though, I met Ivanka right before Trump won the 2016 election. I actually performed for her and a bunch of other strange people like Karl Rove and Ariana Huffington at a conference, and I was very critical [of Trump] onstage and took a couple of digs. Afterwards, I was happy I did it. But these are vindictive people, and if you upset them they will come after you. Fortunately there

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are so many people angry with them they can’t possibly annihilate 3/4 of the population, but I’m sure they’ve thought about it. What’s a collaboration or project you were approached for that didn’t pan out? At one point I was asked to collaborate for the UK’s World Cup with the great theater artist Robert Wilson. That was to be an operatic production for a bunch of English football players and I kept thinking of being backstage near the locker room. But it didn’t happen. How has the pandemic changed your thoughts about how to engage with audiences and performance? You did a whole series of video “Quarantunes” from home on your YouTube I’ve done stuff from my home and duets with people who weren’t in the room with me when we sang. I also did a rather lavish production featuring the new album called The Paramour Session for WNET’s All Arts filmed at Los Angeles’ Paramour Mansion that we spent weeks setting up. I think there’s room for exploration and experimentation, but I don’t think it’ll ever top the live experience.

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Especially as a singer, because there’s something about singing in a live room that can’t be reproduced digitally. But it is a bit of a brave new world and I’m fortunate to be on that journey. Now let’s talk about getting out of the house and traveling. Where would you and the husband and daughter most love to go next? We’ve always dreamt of living in a chateau in France, and there are a couple of options and pipe dreams we have. So directly to a chateau in France. Do not pass Go, do not collect $200, because you’ll need $2 million! Let’s imagine you could create a Rufus Wainwright B&B anywhere in the world. What would it be like and where? It would have to be in Venice, Italy on a boat, and certainly with your own personal opera singer who will be at the helm. And pets are allowed. We were never dog people before, but now we have a wonderful miniature German Shepherd, Puccini, and we’re frighteningly enamored of it. So a “Boat B&B,” I should say. And you’re only allowed to watch The Criterion Collection movies on a little video screen.

What do you always want to find in a hotel room? A Perrier. And Pringles. I’m very well trained. Gummy bears. Does your daughter listen to any music you disapprove of? She flirted with Taylor Swift for a moment and that passed. I have to say I admire Taylor for the stance she’s taking politically now, but at the time a few years ago when she was looming in my daughter’s life I was apprehensive. I want Viva to grow up to be a good, kind person and some of that music was a little too flippant for me. What shows or movies have yave you been binging on at home lately? The Criterion Collection, which is highbrow, and Love It or List It. Love It is great for the family, my daughter loves it, and I think we’ve seen every episode, which is kind of crazy. Final question: Your quarantine beard, will you keep it? Yeah. The beard’s on for a while. I’m not saying it’ll be forever, but not having to take care of [shaving] your face is nice. —Lawrence Ferber

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globetrotting VALENCIA, SPAIN by Richard Nahem

ne of my favorite things about living in Paris is the easy and inexpensive access to all of Europe. I could be on a gondola in Venice in 90 minutes, drinking a glass of Rioja in Spain in two hours, or skiing on the slopes of the Swiss Alps in three. My partner’s birthday is at the end of August and we wanted to go to a beach destination that wasn’t a seasonal resort because it would be overcrowded and expensive. During my research, I found out that Valencia, Spain not only had a rich cultural center, as well as beautiful architecture, but also had beaches. I checked out prices of hotels and airfares, and it turned out that Valencia had a good choice of reasonable accommodations for under $150 a night, so it was Valencia here we come.

Photo: Madrugada Verde

e arrived around 11 A.M. on a hot, but not too humid, sunny day. We lucked out and found a one-bedroom Airbnb apartment for less than $100 a night. It was spacious, with a kitchen larger than ours in Paris, and the view from the fourth floor was a verdant garden. It was also a convenient location, right on the border of the newly revitalized historic district and a five-minute walk to a tram that went directly to the beach. Hungry for lunch, we strolled through the old city, taking in the 15th and 16th century limestone buildings, grand fountain, and impressive Baroque churches. Our destination was the culinary jackpot of Valencia, the Central Market (Plaça de la Ciutat de Bruges, s/n, 46001. www.mercadocentralvalencia.es). The 80,000 square foot market, constructed in 1928, is an Art Nouveau wonder to behold with a marvelous mix of colored tiles, stained glass panels, and a soaring dome reaching 100 feet. Inside were rows upon rows of every type of food imaginable. Most impressive of all was the extraordinary number of fresh fish stalls, proving that Spaniards are crazy about seafood. The fresh anchovies, codfish,

Central Market

shrimp, squid, and octopus all looked so fresh, as though they were caught only minutes before. Another delicacy Spaniards can’t get enough of is Bellota ham, now known as one of the highest quality hams in the world. The stalls had dozens of legs hanging from the ceiling and one of the vendors fed us samples. The buttery and smooth texture had our taste buds begging for more, but we didn’t want to spoil out appetite for lunch. Salivating over the irresistible foods, we headed to Central Bar, surprisingly the only restaurant directly in the market. It was about 2:30 P.M., the height of lunch hour in Valencia. We impatiently waited about 20 minutes until a table became available, as we were practically swooning from the aromas and looks of the dishes being served. We dove into a yummy selection of tapas, including marinated anchovies with passion fruit ceviche; chicken croquettes; pork ribs; and decadent fried potatoes. Afterwards, we headed to La Malvarrosa, about 25 minutes from the center,

located on the Gulf of Valencia in the Mediterranean Sea. As it was the last week of August, the beach was crowded but not packed. We were happy to dig our feet into the warm sand. We later discovered there’s a gay, clothing optional beach on the northern part of La Malvarrosa. Another day, we traveled a little further, about 45 minutes by bus, to a more tranquil, less populated beach, Playa de l’Arbre del Gos, which also had a gay section.

e spent a good part of another day at the futuristic, Jetsonslike Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias (www.cac.es/va/home), a major arts and science museum. Constructed in 1998, the complex was designed by Spanish architects Santiago Calatrava and Félix Candela to echo a similar project built in Paris. Seven structures comprise the complex: an IMAX center and planetarium, an interactive science museum, an open-air oceanography park, opera house and performance center, and a covered plaza for sporting events. One of the elaborate pools

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Photo: karnavalfoto

View of the sea from Pope Luna's Castle

Photo: Tatiana Popova

Photo: Razvan Ionut Dragomirescu

Plaza de la Virgen and Fountain Rio Turia

Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias

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featured a series of stunning sculptures by Spanish artist Jaume Plensa. My partner’s birthday dinner was one of those unforgettable restaurant experiences, the kind you reminisce about frequently, like the first time we tried risotto at a restaurant just outside of Florence. Mercat Bar (Carrer de Joaquín Costa, 27, 46005. www.en.mercatbar.es) is one of five restaurants owned by chef Quique Dacosta, known as the most successful and celebrated chef in Valencia, earning the title of one of the 50 Best Restaurants in the World by Restaurant Magazine for his namesake restaurant. The menu at Mercat Bar is driven by seasonal ingredients in a market type setting that’s fun and casual. We ordered our first starter, intrigued by its name “Cold Pizza.” A pizza box arrived at our table a few moments later, and inside was a pizza with a most unusual crust made of unsweetened meringue and topped with sundried tomatoes and anchovies. We loved it so much, we may never go back to hot pizza! Our main course was made of sensational seafood enveloped in a puff pastry crust shaped like a whole fish. Dessert was American style apple pie, served with vanilla ice cream and a candle on top. Our adorably cute waiter spoke English and was kind enough to share tips about Valencia, while marveling at the fact that we lived in Paris. As two new members of the unofficial Mercat Bar fan club, we returned for lunch on our last day to feast on a bargain two-course lunch for 17.50€. The old quarter of the city was our go-to place for shopping, restaurants, architecture, and museums. The dazzling architectural details of the Art Nouveau buildings rivaled those in Paris, with their ornate doors, mosaic tiled facades, embellished iron balconies, and elaborately carved stone heads and statues. The outside of the El Museo Nacional de Ceramica (Carrer del Poeta Querol, 2, 46002. www.culturaydeporte.gob.es/mnceramica/home) is a rococo dreamscape with decadent stone and ironwork. The former palace from the 15th century was refurbished in 1740 during the height of the rococo period, and what we discovered inside was just as grand. The courtyard entryway is made of alabaster, and there are ornately decorated window frames and wood

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globetrotting slatted balconies. Rooms on the first floor were the private quarters of the former owner, Marquis de Dos Aquas, and included a sumptuous ballroom and a sitting room completely made of ceramic tiles, both containing much of the original furniture and accessories. The second floor is dedicated only to ceramics and features an authentic replica of a typical Valencian kitchen with 18th and 19th century ceramic, decorative panels, and mosaic tiles.

Photo: Joe Logan

Entrance to National Museum of Ceramics

Photo: Razvan Ionut Dragomirescu

Plaza de la Reina

Traditional Paella Valenciana

Photo: SteAck

trip to Valencia wouldn’t be complete without trying one of their culinary delights and experiencing the local paella. Interestingly enough, the Valencian version of paella is served with rabbit and little or no seafood. On our last day, we went to La Riua (Carrer del Mar, 27, 46003. www.lariua.com), a prize-winning restaurant known for its paella. It took a little getting used to not having to peel shrimp and open mussels, but the rabbit paella won us over. The interior of the restaurant felt authentically Spanish with tile floors, high-back wood chairs, and murals on the walls. Following diner, we spent our final night strolling through the El Carmen neighborhood, next to the old quarter. The vibe was lively, fun, and young, with dozens of cafes, bars, and restaurants dotting the ultra-narrow streets. Many of the buildings in El Carmen were either boarded up or being renovated and every empty wall or billboard was claimed by a unique street artist to show off their work. El Carmen is the hot spot for nightlife in Valencia, and we passed numerous bars, clubs, and music venues. We stumbled upon BuBu, a gay bear bar, and went inside for a drink. It was fairly lively and resembled a bar in Paris (The Bear’s Den), with attractive, burly men mostly in their 40s and 50s. The bartender spoke English, and he introduced us to a couple of his friends who also spoke English. They were super welcoming, and they bought the second round of drinks, which was a terrific send off for our last night in Valencia. After returning to Paris and sorely missing Valencia, we realized it’s now our new favorite city in Europe.

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theexperientialist 10 WONDERFUL ATTRACTIONS TO EXPERIENCE IN WASHINGTON, D.C. by Kelsy Chauvin

Photo: Allison C Bailey

Photo: Courtesy NPS

BELMONT-PAUL WOMEN'S EQUALITY NATIONAL MONUMENT

BLACK LIVES MATTER PLAZA Black Lives Matter Plaza

ing and kayaking. It’s also an easy spot to catch a Potomac Riverboat water taxi or sightseeing cruise to charming Old Town Alexandria, Virginia; historic Georgetown; and other waterfront sites.

DUPONT CIRCLE

Capitol Hill’s newest attraction arrived on June 5, 2020, when Washington D.C. Mayor Muriel Bowser renamed a twoblock segment of 16th Street NW as Black Lives Matter Plaza. The plaza’s new street sign is posted on the corner of 16th and H Streets, just outside St. John’s Episcopal Church and one block from the White House. As part of the city’s Public Works Department’s Murals DC program, volunteers painted “BLACK LIVES MATTER” in yellow capital letters on the roadway of 16th Street. You can even see it now with aerial images on Google Maps.

DISTRICT WHARF District Warf Area

Dupont Rainbow Art

Photo: DDOT-Mario Sessions

here are always great reasons to visit Washington, D.C. The capital city is filled with beautiful architecture, powerful cultural sites, and historic neighborhoods. It’s also a dynamic metropolis whose residents take pride in their green spaces, diverse dining and drinking options, a strong LGBTQ community, and ever-evolving arts and music scenes. The past year brought many memorable events, from momentous protests for equality and justice to the women’s suffrage centennial. In 2021, travelers will be able to explore the city’s parks, markets, restaurants, and more. So whether you’re heading there to visit great museums, spot cherry blossoms, join a food tour, or sip cocktails with friends, here are 10 amazing places you must experience when visiting Washington, D.C.

The LGBTQ community stretches across

the city and into areas like the U Street Corridor and Logan Circle, but the Dupont Circle neighborhood is still the historic hub of gay activity. Since the post-Stonewall 70s, queer locals could rely on this gayborhood’s busy bars, bookstores, and other progressive businesses. These days, it’s marked by Frank Kameny Way (at 17th and R Streets) and rainbow-colored crosswalks, plus the Capital Pride parade, the annual June Pride celebration that is a must-see event in D.C.

Belmont-Paul Women’s Equality National Monument

EASTERN MARKET among Washington’s herstoric women’s-rights landmarks is the BelmontPaul National Monument, established by President Obama in 2016. Built on Capitol Hill in 1800, the house served as the National Woman's Party headquarters and was key meeting place for women’s suffrage leaders for nearly a century. It’s located near the U.S. Capitol and Supreme Court, as well as the National Museum of Women in the Arts. The Belmont-Paul house may be temporarily closed, but its virtual tours are always open.

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One of D.C.’s newest destinations is the 10-acre District Wharf, which began welcoming visitors in 2017. Occupying a swath of Potomac River shoreline, the wharf is a big draw for restaurants, parks, piers, and seasonal activities like ice skat-

Eastern Market

Though D.C. has become a hotbed of

food halls like Union Market, Tastemakers, and The Yards, only Eastern Market can proclaim National Historic Landmark

Photo: cdrin

Photo: Sean Pavone

Top

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status. Open on Capitol Hill since 1873, the indoor/outdoor market has long been a go-to for fresh produce, meat, cheese, and baked goods. It’s also the place to head for browsing stalls selling flowers, spices, prepared foods, and handmade crafts. And even if there’s a line, don’t miss the famous blueberry-buckwheat pancakes and other hot dishes at the Market Lunch counter.

Photo: bakdc

Photo: NPS Photo

MARY MCLEOD BETHUNE COUCIL HOUSE NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE

Mary Mcleod Bethune Council House National Historic Site

A short walk from the White House is the Mary McLeod Bethune Council House National Historic Site, the first headquarters of the National Council of Negro Women (NCNW). Born in 1875, McLeod was a great American educator, stateswoman, philanthropist, humanitarian, and civil-rights activist. She established the council in 1935, and from her home just off of Logan Circle, McLeod developed ways to advance the interests of African-American women and the black community. Check their website for onsite and virtual tours, as well as archived stories and photographs about this unique national historic site.

Photo: lunamarina

NATIONAL MALL AND MEMORIAL PARKS

Caiptol Building National Mall

National Museum of American History

Whether or not you’ve traversed the National Mall before, it seems there’s always more there to discover. Even in a difficult era, the sights of America’s domed Capitol Building to the east and the Lincoln Memorial at the west seem to radiate patriotic vibes. Across the mall’s 1,000 acres are many striking and somber sights, including the World War II Memorial and fountain, the brilliant Vietnam Veterans Memorial, and the Martin Luther King Jr. Memorial, commemorating his famous 1963 I Have a Dream speech.

NATIONAL MUSEUM OF AFRICAN AMERICAN HISTORY AND CULTURE Smithsonian National Museum of African American History and Culture

One of Washington’s most powerful experiences awaits at the Smithsonian National Museum of African American History and Culture. Opened in 2016 in a ceremony led by President Obama, the museum is spectacular inside and out. Its eye-catching architecture is laden with symbolism that incorporates both African and American history. Inside, visitors can absorb its extraordinary collection of stories, artifacts, art, interactive exhibits, and more, including Harriet Tubman’s shawl and personal hymn book, Rosa Parks’s dress, a South Carolina slave cabin that was dismantled and rebuilt here, and 36,000 more incredible pieces of U.S. history.

NATIONAL MUSEUM OF AMERICAN HISTORY Several of the Smithsonian’s institutions have reopened with timed-ticket entry, including the marvelous National Museum of American History. The museum is always a favorite for its treasures that showcase the scientific, cultural, technological, and political development of the United States. Of course, the original Star-Spangled Banner is on display there, as are Dorothy’s ruby slippers, Prince’s yellow guitar, and other dazzling artifacts. In spring 2019, the special exhibit Illegal to Be You: Gay History Beyond Stonewall opened with LGBTQ-related historical gems, including original 1960s protest signs, the first transgender-pride flag, and other artifacts dating back to the 19th century. It’s on display until spring 2021 (no closing date yet announced). LGBTQ representation is also part of the Girlhood (It's Complicated) special exhibit exploring women’s history, heroes, and social shifts, past and future. See it here, or when it tours the country through the Smithsonian Institution Traveling Exhibition Service from 2023 through 2025.

U.S. NATIONAL ARBORETUM

US National Arboretum

Located on the east side of D.C. near the Maryland border and Anacostia River is one of the city’s great unsung green spaces. The U.S. National Arboretum’s 450 acres of lush gardens showcase collections of flowers, trees, bushes, and herbs, plus the fantastic National Bonsai & Penjing Museum, with its own unique exhibits and gardens. There’s also the DC Eagle’s Nest and webcam, the National Capitol Columns that once supported the old U.S. Capitol, and a picnic area in the National Grove of State Trees.

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Photo: Courtesy of washington.org

Photo: V.E.

theexperientialist

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IN SEARCH OF THE NORTHERN LIGHTS IN

Photo: Piotr Krzeslak

NORWAY by Kelsy Chauvin

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Aurora Borealis over Hamnoy, Norway

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in search of the northern lights in norway

efore I ever laid eyes on the northern lights, I asked nearly every Norwegian about them. I heard that the nocturnal spectacle was beauty incarnate. That the lights dance across the sky, washing it in green, purple, and occasionally red, orange, and gold. Sometimes they appear as ribbons, sometimes as broad hazy sheets, sometimes like flames bursting upwards, then rippling back down. I also heard that the northern lights are unpredictable and elusive. That part is true indeed. I was on my second deep-winter visit to Arctic Norway. The first journey, aboard a 10-day Hurtigruten (www.hurtigruten.com) coastal cruise, took a full week in February to encounter the glorious aurora borealis. Even then they appeared for only a few hours one night, and for a few minutes another night, but they were extraordinary, and addictive—because three years later, I was back again. It was January, and I returned for a trip focused more on the lights than other sights, but the aurora’s hard-to-catch reputation lived on. As I explored new Arctic destinations during 20-plus hours of daily darkness, my eyes drifted continually skyward. The magic of the aurora is attracting ever more travelers to the earth’s poles, but since the southern lights, the aurora australis, are visible from more distant and challenging locales, most opt for North-Pole pursuits. Norway is a prime location. About half of its territory is inside the Arctic Circle and boasts great infrastructure, like airports and harbors, tour companies, and unique sights. To prep for my aurora-hunting trip, I had to understand more about

Photo: Zinaida Sopina

Hiking in Tromso, Norway

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them. Here’s the short version: Auroral displays begin with a storm on the sun. The resulting solar winds then blast charged particles into space. About 18 hours later, they reach the magnetic field that surrounds the earth, and collide with atmospheric molecules around the planet’s magnetic poles. The collisions, or ionizations, emit brilliant lights that vary in hue, intensity, and location, sometimes wiggling down to latitudes well beyond the Arctic and Antarctic Circles. It’s sort of like a galactic ribbon dance that starts from the sun, and when it reaches our atmosphere, the ribbons bounce off and ripple across the sky in beautiful colors. From the sound of it, the whole process maybe a crap shoot, but through research and my informal polling, I learned a good formula that we earthlings can follow to improve our aurora-spotting chances. For one, August through April are the best months, and traveling above the Arctic Circle’s 66.5 degrees north latitude is optimal. To actually see the aurora borealis requires clear skies, of course, so it’s wise to plan at least a week-long visit in case of cloud cover. Mind the weather forecast, and in Norway, rely on the highly accurate viewing predictions from NorwayLights.com (website and app), which shares specific hour-by-hour likelihoods for catching the Northern Lights in various Norwegian cities. Photographing them is another endeavor well worth the effort, just do your homework before you’re standing out in the cold, and know that a tripod and SLR or other camera with manual settings are key.) And remember to practice patience, because Miss Aurora might be showing off nightly, or she might be as shy as lightning.

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in search of the northern lights in norway

Photo: Denis Belitsky

Aurora Borealis, Lofoten Islands

There they were, brilliant bands of green whipping across the heavens. Audible gasps emanated from my fellow skygazers as the aurora borealis’ colors morphed to purple and bits of red. lying Norwegian Air (www.norwegian.com) and hopping on the Flytoget (flytoget.no) airport-express train makes getting to Oslo a snap. I arrived in town in time to enjoy dinner of “nouveau Norwegian” at Bar Brutus (Eiriks gate 2. Tel: 47 22 38 00 88. www.barbrutus.no), and a night at the regal Grand Hotel Oslo (Karl Johans gate 31. Tel: 47-2321-2000. www.grand.no). The next morning, I flew to the Arctic city of Alta, perched at 69.9 degrees north, and began to embrace my thermal layers like never before. The first day’s temperature was -11° Fahrenheit at noon. Sunshine was present, albeit only as a hazy dusk-like light that lasted only a few hours. Personally, I love the cold. I naturally run hot and enjoy feeling bundled up with brisk air on my face. But even for me, it took mere minutes to feel the icy air penetrate, first through my heavy-duty gloves, then my doublelayered pant legs, then up into the soles of my thermal boots. At subzero temperatures, I found my body involuntarily shaking, and the wind numbing my face. Corny but true: I felt alive! My fellow travelers here, on the other hand, were suffering. It seemed like no amount of woolen layers, Thinsulate, scarves, or hot tea could help them sustain more than a few minutes outside. I wondered

why they would venture into this climate if they couldn’t take the cold? I think they asked themselves the same question. The answer would prove itself once they saw the lights. At the head of the Alta Fjord is the town of Alta. It’s a compact city of about 21,000 residents, with a downtown pedestrian mall lined with shops and restaurants. I began by checking into the central Thon Hotel Alta (Labyrinten 6. Tel: 47-7849-4000. www.thonhotels.com), and then enjoying a meal of Artic char with baked cauliflower and potatoes with lingonberry sauce at Stakeriet (Løkkeveien 47a. Tel: 47-4000-5585. www.stakeriet.no). The Alta Museum (Altaveien 19. 47-4175-6330. www.altamuseum.no) was a good introduction to the area, sharing the region’s natural history and Norwegian art through permanent and temporary exhibits. It’s also built around a series of ancient carved monoliths dating back 2,000 to 6,200 years, making it Northern Europe's largest and richest rock-carving site, and a UNESCO's World Heritage site. The city’s also home to the Cathedral of the Northern Lights (Markedsgata 30. Tel: 47-7844-4270. www.irken.no/alta), a house of worship that opened in 2013. Its architecture is decidedly modern DECEMBER 2020 I PASSPORT

Photo: Mumemories.

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Northern lights over Skagsanden Beach, Lofoten Islands

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in search of the northern lights in norway

and evokes the Northern Lights both inside and out through materials, lighting, and design. Below ground, BorealisAlta (Tel: 47-40195000. www.borealisalta.no), mixes up the straightforward cathedral experience with an interactive exhibition about the aurora’s history, interpretations, and science. he next day was a true adventure, driving my own dogsled with Holmen Husky (Holmen 100. Tel: 47 91 76 48 66. holmenhusky.no), an overnight lodge with sledding tours by day or night. If ever you wonder how four 50-pound dogs can pull heavy humans and cargo, these pups will enthusiastically inform you that their vigor knows no bounds. Behind the sled, I quickly learned how to use all my weight and both feet pressed into a cleated rubber mat to “brake” on the snowy trail, and even then the mighty wee beasts could still find traction. By dusk (around 2 P.M. or so), I was on my way to Sorrisniva (Sorrisniva 20. Tel: 47-7843-3378. www.sorrisniva.no), Alta’s igloo hotel and restaurant/bar, to check out the year’s original ice carvings and enjoy a five-course tasting menu in the toasty dining room. I was glad to have these diversions in Alta, because these first few days were, unfortunately, aurora-free. Such is the nature of northern lights hunting, hit or miss. The next day brought an unforgettable visit to Europe’s northernmost point, Nord Kapp (www.visitnordkapp.net), or North Cape. At 71.1 degrees north, the cape is about 40 minutes north of Honningsvag. It’s marked by a giant steel-frame globe installed at the edge of a Barents Sea cliff. Yes, it was cold, and whoa, such frigid wind. My inner heat pump was cranking, but even I could only handle a few minutes at a time without gloves before I’d lose feeling in my fingertips. So, fewer selfies, but an authentic Arctic experience. Inside the visitor center, my peers hunkered down in the café and browsed the big gift shop, and we all explored the subterranean galleries and a panoramic film about this historic area—named Nord Kapp by an English explorer seeking the Northeastern Passage in 1553. In the town of Honningsvag, I couldn’t resist joining a fourwheel all-terrain vehicle (ATV) night drive with Nord 71° (Fiskeriveien 8. Tel: 47-4728-9320. www.en.71-nord.no), a local tour company that also offers Northern-Lights safaris, and ice-fishing, snowshoing, and snowquad (an ATV with snow tracks) adventures, as well as summer packages. My Arctic week was winding down as I flew from teeny Honningsvag Airport, which appeared to employ a full winter staff of about four employees, into Tromso. At 69.6 degrees north latitude and with 77,000 residents, it’s Northern Norway’s largest city, and the thirdlargest in the Arctic (after two Russian cities). This was my second visit to Tromso, and I was glad to return. From its perch on the Tromsoysundet strait, the island city has a few special delights, all walking distance from or along the harbor front. The rustic little Polar Museum (Sondre Tollbodgate 11B. Tel: 47-7762-3360. www.en.uit.no/tmu/polarmuseet) houses artifacts and exhibits about famous Norwegian explorers and local history. At Full Steam, opened in 2019, a former fishery on Bangsund Pier (Sondre Tollbodgate 3. Tel: 47-4783-5055. www.fullsteam.no), was converted into part history exhibit, and restaurant focused on cod, the region’s largest export.

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Walking through Tromso leads to discoveries like the town square (aka Stortorget), in winter adorned with new ice-and-snow sculptures, cafés, and bars. I discovered in this historic city colorful wooden houses and other sturdy architecture dating back to the 18th century. By contrast, the Tromso Public Library and Archive (Gronnegt 94. Tel: 47-7779-0900. www.tromso.kommune.no) is airy and modern, with its undulating roof and glowing interiors. It’s easy to find an affordable hotel in Tromso, with Scandic Ishavshotel (Fredrik Langes gate 2. Tel: 47-7766-64 00. www.scandichotels.no), Clarion Hotel The Edge (Kaigata 6. Tel: 47-7766-8400. www.nordicchoicehotels.no), and several more hotels located by the harbor, both with water or city views, and most including breakfast— naturally, with plenty of smoked fish. Further down the main avenue of Storgata is Mack (Storgata 4. Tel: 47-8008-0440. www.mack.no), the “world’s northernmost brewery,” and one of the oldest since its first ales were poured in 1877. Don’t miss a trip to its historic Olhallen (brewpub). The Northern Norway Art Museum (Sjogata 1. Tel: 47-7764-7020. www.nnkm.no) houses multi-media works by daring artists representing the region. Tromso is home to several notable restaurants, but two of the best are casual bistro/bar/event space Bardus (Cora Sandels Gate 4. Tel: 479267-4888. www.bardus.no); and cozy Emma’s Drommekjokken (Kirkegata 8. Tel: 47-7763-7730. www.emmasdrommekjokken.no). Across the strait, I found myself zipping up the Fjellheisen (www.fjellheisen.no) cable car to Mount Storsteinen; there is no better view than this one, plus there’s a cute café and walking trails. ith only three nights left in Norway, I was admittedly nervous that my chance to see the northern lights was slipping away. I was addicted to my NorwayLights app, hoping to see a little optimism in the forecast. Then, as I strolled out of my hotel around 6 P.M., I saw a handful of people standing still, staring up at the mountain across the strait. There they were, brilliant bands of green whipping across the heavens. Audible gasps emanated from my fellow skygazers as the aurora borealis’ colors morphed to purple and bits of red. I heard a man with a Norwegian accent say in English, “This is so beautiful. I haven’t seen them so bright like this for a long time.” It was frigid there on the waterfront. Tromso’s urban lights and long cantilevered bridge illuminated the land and water. But compared to this grand solar gift, this nocturnal phenomenon, earthly flair felt insignificant. I was seeing the northern lights, as I would for the next two nights. I understood why they were there and the basic astronomy behind them. Yet they defied logic, and left me breathless in wonder. I await the day I get to behold them again.

Be sure to explore VisitNorway.com for regional travel tips, tour packages, recommended guides, seasonal events, attractions, and other tripplanning advice for your Norway adventures. NOTE: Due to the Covid-19 pandemic, make sure to check the status of each destination and establishment prior to traveling to the area. Many Norwegian cities and businesses are open (fully or partially) at the time of this publication, but their operations are subject to change

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Acqua Alta and The Art of IPhoto: Pierre Teyssot

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acqua alta and the art of venice

or the anniversary celebrations of Tintoretto, da Vinci, and art collector Peggy Guggenheim, I traveled back to my favorite city in the world, Venice, Italy. I was there during the now infamous week of November 12, 2019. An Acqua Alta (extreme flooding) traditionally occurs once, recedes and everything is back to normal, but during the course of my stay we experienced record breaking flood levels 5 days out of 7. This was to be the 2nd highest flood in 50 years. The day before my travel mate Bud and I flew to Venice, the manager of the apartment I was renting from through the Red House Company, sent me a text suggesting I bring boots on the trip. He informed me that we were arriving at high tide. I was an old pro at this, having traveled to Venice previously and experiencing an Acqua Alta that would become the 6th highest flooding in recorded history. Acqua Altas tend to happen around November and the perfect recipe is a full moon, a high tide, and a storm. I guessed I could wait till I arrived at Marco Polo Airport to buy a pair of wellies if need be, I wasn’t going to use up precious room in my luggage for a pair of boots. Well, guess what? There are no shops in Venice’s airport that sells wellies or even the slip over your shoe, knee high plastic booties. I’m going to move to Venice, open up a shop at the airport, sell boots and booties during flooding seasons and make a fortune. Around 11 A.M. the morning of November 12th we landed at Marco Polo during high tide, but there was no rain, and I asked a woman at the information desk if the vaporetto (water bus) stop called Ca’Rezzonico was under water. “No, no, signore, Ca’Rezzonico is high. No problems.” Phew, that’s a relief. Instead of dealing with the public water bus and morning rush hour I hired a pricey private water taxi, through the Red House Company (or you can easily book your own through Venice Link) and right on cue Alberto arrived at our pier ready to whisk us off to Ca’Rezzonico. Did I

Photo: Stefano Mazzola

The Highest Tide in a Century

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say whisk? It was more like an amusement park ride. I’ve ridden some choppy water on the Venetian Lagoon before, but we seriously needed seat belts and neck braces on that day. It wasn’t vintage, but it was a beautiful wooden, covered motorboat, but the retractable roof, which allows you to stand up and take in the breathtaking views of Venice as you approach her, needed to be sealed shut. It still wasn’t raining, yet, but the waves were quite high and eager to spritz all over us. Not the kind of spritz I was looking forward to. When we’d hit a large squall and be thrown about the boat with our luggage, Alberto would periodically look back to see if we were still alive and give us the thumbs up. As the boat slowed down to circumnavigate the fragile canals of Venice’s inner city, finally, I recognized the Ca’ Rezzonico Palazzo that our water stop is named after and was anxious to get onto dry, solid ground. Well, it was solid and my former gymnastic days came in handy for managing to exit a small bouncing boat up onto the platform without doing a dismount into the choppy canal. Waiting at the stop for us was a young woman who works for the Red House rental company whom we had met on a previous trip. And what did she have in her hands? Slipover-your-shoe booties. I think the woman back at the information desk in the airport needs to brush up on her Venetian neighborhoods and their water levels. At the vaporetto stop the water was mid shin high. Raised wooden boardwalks had been erected by the city to help tourists as well as natives navigate the pooling of sea water. Luckily, the apartment was nearby and the platforms took us far enough down the walkway to reach our apartment—the booties were not needed...yet. The apartment was quirky, ancient, charming, had a gorgeous rooftop deck plus it was toasty warm. One odd layout was that the original beams on the floor of the dwelling were not flush with the regular floor boards. A tricky and conscious stepping over of the beams was a constant must. Rather than a neg-

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acqua alta and the art of venice

Photo: Arthur Wooten

Christ Healing the Paralytic by Tintoretto (Saint Roch's Church)

Part of this trip to Venice was to celebrate the 400th anniversary of the birth of artist Tintoretto and to discover the best of his paintings throughout the city. ative, I saw it as...character. Plus, in the apartment were wellies, well, one pair. After unpacking and catching our breaths, we decided to head out. Remembering that high tides occur every 12 hours and 25 minutes and that high tide to low tide is a span of 6 hours and 12.5 minutes, I knew it was okay to head out and explore. To be safe, I wore the wellies and Bud, the slip-ons. art of this trip to Venice was to celebrate the 400th anniversary of the birth of artist Tintoretto and to discover the best of his paintings throughout the city. If Verdi is Venice’s master musician then Tintoretto is its prized local artist. Born in 1518, Jacopo Robusti was 1 of 21 children. His father was a dyer, which is tintore in Italian, and Jacopo worked with his father garnering the nickname, Tintoretto (little dyer). At the age of 12 years old, he became an apprentice in Titian’s workshop. Titian at the time was the master painter of Venice and renowned for his vivid use of color. Even though he was very young, Titian felt threatened by Tintoretto’s innate talent and fired him from his studio, creating a lifelong feud and competition between them. As much as Tintoretto was frustrated by Titian’s constant blocking him of winning competitions and earning money, Tintoretto respected his short-lived former mentor and developed this motto towards his work: “The drawing of Michelangelo, the coloring of Titian...” That day we aimlessly explored Venice from our neighborhood of the

Dorsoduro, north towards the San Polo district and, without looking at a map, and just by chance, we ended up in front of the Church of San Rocco, also known as Church of Saint Roch. One of 4 plague churches, it was built for the Confraternity (a society of wealthy and religious Venetian men) of San Rocco between 1489 and 1508, to honor and help the victims of the plague. In fact, Saint Roch dedicated his life to helping those suffering from the Black Death. Next to the church on one side was a new da Vinci museum, and on the other is the actual Scuola Grande di San Rocco, home of the Confraternity. I knew the Scuola housed scores of Tintorettos, but when we approached the building someone inside was closing and locking the doors earlier than their website indicated. Disappointed, we stepped into the church. What an unexpected surprise. The church was a jewel box of sumptuous paintings mounted on the walls, surrounding the alter, covering the balconies and even up on the ceiling. The artists included Angeli, Ricci, and Fumiani, as well as 6 paintings created by Tintoretto. Still an active church, we were courteous of worshipers praying as we tip-toed around the church admiring the masterpieces. One that stood out for me was Tintoretto’s painting Christ Healing the Paralytic (Pool of Bethesda). Here was a beautiful example of the artist honoring Michelangelo in his depiction of massive and muscular male figures as well as applying the rich and vivid colors, like Titian. Also amazing were the paintings of The Vows of the Doge and Patri-

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Photo: Arthur Wooten

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St. Mark Saving a Saracen from Ship Wreck by Tintoretto (Accademia)

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acqua alta and the art of venice

San Rocco in Glory by Tintoretto (Scuola Grande di San Rocco)

sounds followed. There were many of them and they sounded like some sort of alien code echoing throughout the city. We slept for 3 solid hours and woke up to a freezing and pitch-black apartment. Stumbling around, I glanced out a window and noticed the city seemed awfully dark, with only a light on here or there. I grabbed my cell and called the landlord. We had no heat, no electricity,

St Mark Saves the Slave from Torture by Tintoretto (Accademia)

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Photo: Arthur Wooten

fter a shower, change of clothes, and with our stomachs growling, we decided not to take any chances and we ducked into a trattoria directly across the street from our ancient attic. Pane Vino San Barnaba turned out to be fantastic, not only for its food and ambience but because of the host and head waiter, Massimo. We devoured our food and drink, and then happily walked across the calle (narrow street) to our house. It was so enjoyable that we returned twice more during our visit. At 9 PM, while still exploring the workings of the apartment, we decided to sleep with a light on to navigate the treacherous floor beams in the middle of the night. While getting ready for an early sleep due to jet lag, we suddenly heard World War II type sirens begin to blow really loud. Once the sirens stopped, high pitched beeping

Photo: Bernard Santora

archâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Wish to St Roch, both done by Giuseppe Angeli that were up in the balcony. From below, they were hauntingly observing us. Having spent more time than expected in Saint Rochâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, we headed out and were shocked back into reality as we scurried home retracing our steps as water levels began to rise and the sun was setting. This was way too early for the tidal waters which primarily begin about 3 hours prior to high tide, which was scheduled for 11:30-ish in the evening. Plus, we noticed water bubbling up from the centuries old stone grate drains along the walkways, something I had never seen before.

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Photo: Matteo De Fina

acqua alta and the art of venice

Photo: Matteo De Fina

Photo: Jo Crebbin

The Peggy Guggenheim in Venice

Vestaglia by Alechinsky at the Peggy Guggenheim 38

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no hot water. The power was out. He then explained to us what those high-pitched beeps were. They alert Venetians to the possible height of the inevitable flooding, hence why there were so many this time. He said the entire city was under water. I’m not sure where the owner of the apartment lived, but it was certainly not nearby. I think he was on the mainland. To solve the power outage problem, he asked me to check the circuit breakers for the apartment. For that, I put on my wellies and Bud and I carefully walked down the pitch-black staircases to the first-floor vestibule of our house while using our phone’s flashlights to help us navigate. Having reached the bottom floor, I saw the metal circuit breaker box but it was across the room. He instructed me to open it. Even though I was wearing rubber boots, I was standing in shin deep water and fearful he was going to ask me to flip a switch. Suddenly, I remembered that one day I had said, “I could die happy in Venice,” but I didn’t want this to be the day, or the way. He asked me if all the switches were in the ‘up’ position and I said yes. He then said, “Head back upstairs. The city has either lost its power or has purposefully shut if off for safety reasons.” I survived and we clambered back up the stairs to the freezing attic. Wind and rain smashed against the roof and our skylights and come morning we still had no power. I called the owner again, who finally seemed as concerned as we were. I was also thinking that we were going to lose power to our phones soon. He was going to send an assistant over to the apartment to figure out what to do. Two hours went by and I called him back to inform him that no one had arrived. He said, “She couldn’t reach you.” “Why?” I asked. “The floods are above waist deep. Six feet above sea level to be exact.” I thought that we’d wait it out and in a couple of hours the tide would recede, but it didn’t. Finally, there was a knock on the door and the assistant to the landlord appeared in hip waders. She was able to turn the power back on, but informed us that we should wait a good 3 hours before attempting to leave the house. The inside foyer of our house was still full with at least a foot of water. That night the Mayor of Venice, Luigi Grugnaro, said in a tweet that the city was “on its knees” and he declared a “state of emergency.” I also read that one person had died...he was trying to start his water pump and got electrocuted. After 3 P.M. we managed to crawl out of our house. We walked down our street to Campo San Barnaba. A permanent da Vinci installation was housed in the Church of San Barnaba

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acqua alta and the art of venice

Photo: Matteo De Fina

Circoncisione by Pollock at the Peggy Guggenheim

with actual reconstructions of many of da Vinci’s inventions, but it was closed. We were to discover that many museums, churches, shops, and restaurants would be closed due to the devastating effects of the flooding. Overcast but not raining we decided to walk over to the Peggy Guggenheim Museum, which was in our Dorsoduro neighborhood. Her palazzo is directly on the Grand Canal and although it isn’t on higher ground, the palazzo itself is built up on several feet of stone and I suspected they were safe from the flooding. I was right, and they were open. 2019 was the 40th anniversary of her death and the museum was honoring her with a special exhibit called The Last Dogaressa. On display was an eclectic array of sculptures, paintings and drawing that she collected during the 30 years that she lived in her Palazzo Venier dei Leon, an 18th century palace. Shown were Jean Arp, Francis Bacon, Jackson Pollock and two of my favorites, David Hare’s sculpture, Moon Cage and Max Ernst’s Garden Airplane Trap. he next day the sun came out and so did all the Venetians and tourists! It was a perfect Autumn day to explore that year’s Biennale. Each year, the festival alternates between art and

architecture, and 2019 celebrated art. It’s like the Olympics for the art world. That year’s theme was May You Live in Interesting Times, and 90 countries participated. Each country in the festival gets their own little pavilion. A real stand out this season was Russia’s contribution by artist Alexander Shishkin-Hokusai. I also really liked Ed Atkins Bloom. Also impressive was Kemang Wa Lehulere’s Dead Eye. And although it was hard to reach, Lorenzo Quinn, son of actor Anthony Quinn, offered another version of his giant hand sculptures to the Biennale. “Venice is a World Heritage City and it is the city of bridges,” says Quinn. “It is the perfect location to spread a message of world unity and peace so that more of us around the world build bridges with others rather than walls and barriers.” Sloshing through Venice, at one point we discovered ourselves in front of the Rialto Bridge. And right beside it was the department store, T Fondaco Dei Tedeschi. Inside the breathtakingly beautiful building built in 1228, we discovered on the first floor their restaurant Amo. We grabbed a perfect bite to eat, had a quick glass of wine, and we were ready to go.

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Photo: Pajor Pawel

acqua alta and the art of venice

da Vinci Museum in Venice

he following day, we noticed that the da Vinci Museum in our campo was open. 2019 marked the 500th anniversary of da Vinci’s death and to commemorate it, the Church of San Barnaba had a permanent collection on display. After the tide receded enough, we ran over and took a look at the meticulous recreations of da Vinci’s amazing plans for flight, combat, and even whimsy. There were levers, pulleys, wheels, axles, wedges, inclined planes, screws, gears, ball bearings, parachutes, and floats. His plans for a bicycle were spot on, but I’m not so sure about wings for man to fly. On another “dry-ish” day we headed back to the Scuola Grande di San Riocco that we had tried to enter on the first day of the trip. Doors were open and so were our eyes—wide open! In 1564 the confraternity built the Scuola Grande and wanted religious paintings displayed throughout. Like its sister Church next door, that meant massive oil on canvas paintings on all the walls and ceilings of the two floors of the building. There was a competition held to find the right artist to do the work and Tintoretto, who wanted badly to be a part of the confraternity, played a big trick on the other artists. He secretly got into the Scuola and installed his completed painting on the ceiling! And he offered it for free, knowing the brotherhood could not refuse a charitable donation. So, San Rocco in Glory and Tintoretto won the competition. The following year he was offered membership into the brotherhood. It took him 24 years to complete the 50 enormous paintings on display at San Riocco. There are so many magnificent creations in this building, take your time to absorb and appreciate them all. Even come back a second or third time. Note: the museum offers mirrors for you to hold out in front of you so you can view the ceiling paintings without hurting your neck.

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he day before we left Venice, the Gallerie Accademia finally reopened its doors. Here we found many Tintorettos, including his Saint Mark Saves the Slave from Torture. Tintoretto was only 29 when he painted this masterpiece. Saint Mark swoops down causing the instruments of torture to break, cancelling the punishment that the provencal lord (seated top right) had sentenced his slave to because he traveled to Venice to worship the remains of Saint Mark. There’s such movement in Tintoretto’s paintings, they appear cinematic. He was the first of the renaissance painters to include the everyday man and woman as well as rich lords and politicians. If you look closely, there are knights as well as Ottomans...only a Venetian could have painted this master work. And with a nod to Titian, Tintoretto gloriously paints silks, satins, and brocades in bold luscious colors. In a sense, he’s showing off Venice’s riches. Also, of note is Saint Mark Saving a Saracen from Ship Wreck. Saint Mark rescues a converted Saracen. Yes, I needed to look up the meaning of Saracen (an Arab or Muslim). A stormy sea with foreboding sky streaked with lightening shows amazing movement and color, as Saint Mark effortlessly lifts the Saracen to safety. What a perfect ending to a very unusual, exhilarating, and sometimes frightful trip to Venice...where it feels like Saint Mark has lifted the Venetian’s spirits up and encouraged their resilience and strength. It was devasting to walk the streets and witness shops, restaurants, museums, and hotels focusing on cleaning up the damage from the multiple floods. In fact, I have friends whose restaurants were still closed by the time I was flying back to NYC. I have such tremendous respect for Venice and its people, for their devotion to their exceptional city and their hard work ethic. My heart breaks for Venice. I don’t know what the future holds for her, but I will continue to return and rejoice in her splendor as long as I can. Ciao, Bella!.

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veniceresources ACCOMMODATIONS The Red House Company is a dependable and professional company that personally manages every upscale apartment and home they rent in Venice. www.veniceredhouse.com

“Building Bridges” Sculpture by Lorenzo Quinn at Venice Biennale 2019

Hotel Saturnia, San Marco 2398, is my personal choice for my next visit to Venice and also home to La Caravella Restaurant. This beautiful and classic hotel is within close proximity of Piazza San Marco and all of the historic sites in that area. www.hotelsaturnia.it

Photo: Elena Bandurka

TRADITIONAL HISTORICAL MUST-SEES Palazzo Ducale, The Doge’s Palace, Piazza San Marco. This massive Gothic structure housed public offices, courtrooms, prisons, the Doge’s apartments, stables, armories, and other facilities. It also has Tintoretto’s massive creation Paradise in the Great Council room of the Doge’s Palace. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it Basilica San Marco, St. Mark’s Church, San Marco, 328. Open daily for prayers and sightseeing. www.basilicasanmarco.it Torre dell’Orologio, The Clock Tower, Piazza San Marco. Info and tickets to the astrological clock that’s been keeping time for Venetians for over 500 years. www.torreorologio.visitmuve.it The Campanile di San Marco, San Marco 328. Great views of the Piazza San Marco from atop the bell tower. www.aviewoncities.com/ venice/campanile Ponte di Rialto, The Rialto Bridge. Shops line both sides of this landmark crossing the Grand Canal. EXCELLENT MUSUEMS Scuola Grande di San Rocco, Campo San Polo, 3052. In 1478 the confraternity was established and commissioned Tintoretto to adorn all the walls and ceilings with his artwork. www.scuolagrandesanrocco.org/home-en Ca’ Rezzonico, Dorsoduro 3136. Museum of 18th Century Venice and the palatial home of the Rezzonico family. www.carezzonico.visitmuve.it

Photo: Arthur Wooten

“Bloom” by Ed Atkins.

Peggy Guggenheim Museum, 704 Dorsoduro, just east of the Accademia bridge along the Grand Canal. This is Peggy Guggenheim’s palace that she lived in and it houses the collection of her 20th century art. www.guggenheimvenice.it/inglese/default.html Venice Biennale: Every year the famous biennale exhibits, on alternating years, art or architecture exhibits from countries from all over the world. www.labiennale.org Gallerie Accademia, Campo della Carita, Dorsoduro 1050. An incredible collection of Venetian paintings and home to many of Tintoretto’s masterpieces including The Miracle of the Slave. www.gallerieaccademia.it/en Museum Correr, on the Piazza San Marco. Imperial apartments of the former King of Italy, and also many ongoing exhibitions. www.correr.visitmuve.it Palazzo Fortuny, San Marco 3958. The sumptuous home and showcase of Mariano Fortuny’s multitude of creative talents. www.fortuny.visitmuve.it da Vinci Musuem Campo San Barnaba. Fans of the movie, Indian Jones and the Last Crusade will recognize the facade of this church of Saint Barnaba. No longer an active place of worship it now houses the permanent da Vinci collection www.leonardoavenezia.com/en/mostra CHURCHES Church of San Rocco aka Church of Saint Roch San Rocco San Polo 3052. A beautiful Roman Catholic Church dedicated to Saint

Roch who spent his life helping victims of the plague. Also houses several brilliant Tintorettos. Church of San Barnaba Campo San Barnaba. Built in the 9th century, the church now houses a permanent collection of da Vinci’s inventions made from his original plans. www.italyscapes.com/places/veneto/venice /churches/church-san-barnaba/ RESTAURANTS Pane Vineo San Barnaba, Calle Lunga San Barnaba, 2861. I dined here 3 times, it was so good. Great atmosphere, friendli-ness, and food. Hopefully Massimo will be your waiter. (He’s off Mondays.) www.facebook.com/ panevinosanbarnaba Amo, Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi Rialto Bridge, 30124. When in the Rialto Bridge district check out the chic department store, T Fondaco Dei Tedeschi. Housed in an ancient building, after exploring the plethora of name brand stores, head down to the first floor restaurant, Amo, for a delicious quick bite and maybe an Aperol Spritz. SERVICES and APPS Venice Link: Purchase waterbus tickets, private and shared water taxis, entrance to museums, plus day excursions to surrounding islands. www.venicelink.com/en CheBateo: This app shows you which waterbuses go where and when. (Find on your phone’s app store.) hi!tide Venice: This app gives you the current tides in Venice, and is very helpful for visitors. (Find on your phone’s app store.)

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MEDITATION DESTINATIONS

Photo: Martin Valigursky

by Jimmy Im

Tropical Beach in the Maldives

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meditation destinations

’m a fast-paced, impulsive, stress-magnet New Yorker. I’m more in my head than in the moment, and my tendency to overanalyze doesn’t exactly help. I get bored easily, silence makes me anxious, and I’m constantly on the go (both physically and mentally). In theory, meditation makes sense for me, but it’s the one thing on my daily to-do list that will get bumped to tomorrow. I know meditation is not as easy as just closing your eyes, but it’s one of the most important factors for quality health and well-being. I often postpone doing it, but I want zen in my everyday life, and I knew I needed to make time for it. So I checked into a meditation retreat far, far away.

tudies show meditation, a practice used by hundreds of religions, philosophies, and organizations since 5,000 BC, enhances mood and self-esteem and reduces stress, anxiety, and depression. Meditation can also help regulate the immune system and reduce inflammation, and it can physically reduce brain aging. Studies also show that 15 minutes of meditation can create higher levels of well-being and lower levels of negativity. I learned how to meditate in 2017 when I checked into Ananda Spa in Rishikesh, India. The all-inclusive wellness resort, known for meditation, yoga, and healing, is secluded in the foothills of the Himalayas with programs that Oprah Winfrey approves of (Oprah visited Ananda in 2014 and said it was “the most authentic spa experience I’ve ever had”). Ananda has a high level of luxury, modern comforts (heated outdoor pool, terraced restaurant, spa), passionate meditation and wellness gurus, and comprehensive diet consultations. One could be as involved as they like with lectures and group activities or find holistic alignment (and some pampering) at their own pace. The best value: I was completely removed from my busy NYC life, immersed in nature and “good energy” at a resort designed to better myself, surrounded by similar people who all

Palmaia - The House of Aia Resort, Riviera Maya, Mexico

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wanted the same results. Here, I would take meditation seriously and build habits of mindfulness. Self-awareness and clarity didn’t come gradually; it happened within the first day. I followed a personalized meal plan built around my diagnosed poor digestion, which affected my sleep, which affected my mental health, which affected my back pain, which affected my overall wellbeing. Diet helped in a significant way, and eating healthy, vitamin and antioxidant-rich, mostly plant-based meals, truly impacted my moods. I felt more energetic and confident, but it was the meditation that allowed me to change the direction of my stressful life. I thought meditation was about putting your mind in a good place, and thinking about how you can achieve personal goals, but it’s the complete opposite. Meditation is breathing, focusing, and relaxing, thinking about nothing, as I learned from Sandeep, the gentle, wise, and thoughtful meditation master I was paired with for two daily private sessions. Sandeep was patient. He gave me time to ease into meditation. I spent the first two sessions asking questions about stress and happiness, as well as the terrible things in the world, and why we exist, and he always had the right answers. I didn’t realize until later, this was part of the process. Talking to him was like talking to a therapist, only he had answers that made me feel better. Talking helped me clear my mind, and relieve my stress. I left each session with chunks of inspiration and beneficial aphorisms that I wrote in my journal, and I read them over and over every day. They became my mantras, like: “If you can’t create love for yourself, how do you expect others to love you? Accept yourself; the universe will support you” or “You have to live in the moment and connect with yourself. Checking your phone and using it all the time is not living in the moment. It’s living for everyone else.” Sandeep and I met in different locations (the spa, the palace, the outdoor yoga pavilion), always immersed in nature, to the sights and sounds and

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Photo: Guitar Photographer

meditation destinations

Arashiyama Bamboo Grove, Kyoto, Japan

Traveling allows one to grow, learn, absorb and appreciate, and in places like Kyoto, Maldives, Sedona and Riviera Maya, I was able to make a special connection with each destination. smells of Earth. Most of our meditation sessions involved me asking him questions that helped empty my mind, ending with breathing and relaxing my body. I was physically removed from chaos, but also mentally purging it, too. I achieved better posture and felt more at ease, I felt more intuitive and more confident. I was also hyper aware of my surroundings, and even had a variety of metaphysical moments, like astral projection, which sounds strange, but when you reach a point in meditation, it’s not uncommon. Ultimately, I learned how my body and mind is connected, and treating your body well serves your mind well (and vice versa). Sometimes thinking about meditation is meditation, and as long as you create the time and mental space for it, even as little as five minutes, you’re halfway there. As Sandeep continually emphasized, meditation is all about breathing. hether you sit, lie, or stand, focusing on being aware and present in your surroundings can help bring calmness, focus, and clarity,” says Malminder Gill, a licensed therapist and coach and founder of Hypnotherary London (hypnosis-in-london.com), who says breath awareness and mindful breathing can help improve concentration and reduce anxiety. Meditation is becoming aware of any limitations and trying to change these limitations to something positive. It’s not just about closing your eyes,

but to observe yourself, too. Ultimately, meditation is surrendering yourself and clearing your conscience. It helps with stress, it helps conquer anxiety, it’s therapeutic, it makes you self-aware and it creates a positive environment. Meditation is also one of the oldest practices on Earth, proving it has stood the test of time for deeper knowledge of self-awareness and inner calm. “Meditation helps you let go of bias, feel calmness, and allow yourself to see openly and clearly without judgment or distractions,” says Gill. “It aims at having awareness of the obstacles in the way of your focus. It focuses on compassion, deep thinking, and feeling at peace.” Gill helps high-profile clients meditate and gain clarity in their lives, and she makes sure they carve out time to meditate when they travel. “Most people prefer a quiet space so they’re not interrupted, but if that’s difficult, I recommend walking meditation. You can feel grounded as your feet connect with the ground. You don’t have to travel abroad to do this as you can practice on a daily commute or lunch break. Notice the sound of birds, how leaves fall to the ground, the beauty and colors of nature. Feel how your body reacts to the air, the weather, the way you walk, focusing on deep breathing, standing tall, relaxing your shoulders, and relieving any tensions. Don’t stress if your practice slips. Staying present in the moment of your travel will give you similar mindful and relaxation benefits.”

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meditation destinations

While you can meditate anywhere, even in busy places like New York City (I go to Modrn Sanctuary (modrnsanctuary.com), a holistic and alternative wellness center), there are outdoor-centric destinations that provide an excellent environment, and you don’t necessarily need to check into an exotic wellness retreat like I did to get started. Some great meditation destinations can be found in stunning places around the world, and immersing in nature helps create tranquility. What matters most is being able to just shift your mind temporarily and focus on your breathing. Here are four beautiful destinations that are not only perfect for meditation, they also make unforgettable vacation spots.

RIVIERA MAYA, MEXICO

Photo: Zak Zeinert

Riviera Maya, Mexico may be a popular beach destination for vacationers, but it’s also a magnet for yogis, hippies, spa junkies, and people on spiritual quests. Riviera Maya is rooted in ancient Mayan culture, which for centuries included natural ways of healing, self-reflection, personal enlightenment, and spiritual transformation. Travelers arrive to better themselves, whether in the tropical jungles or white sand beaches, ancient ruins, cenotes, luxury resorts with holistic spas, or ubiquitous wellness and yoga retreats along the coast. Perhaps Riviera Maya’s most holistic, wellness-geared resort, Palmaia The House of Aia is dedicated to Mayan culture’s nurturing philosophy. Not only does the all-inclusive, luxury resort have an excellent jungle spa oasis with ancient therapies and a natural cenote (underwater sinkhole), it’s inspired by the healing sounds and practices Mayans thrived on. At Palmaia, I was able to decompress, but also found mindfulness in every aspect of the resort, including the plant-based dishes in dining, the nightly Rituals of Sound events with DJs playing tribal beats and live acoustic performances, and thoughtful daily activities in the Architects of Life program, like sound bathing, yoga, transpersonal astrology, and meditation.

Palmaia - The House of Aia Playa Del Carmen

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“Our aim is to offer experiences that will awaken something within, experiences that will make people question their path (or not), feel something different in order to question who we are and what our place is in this world,” says Palmaia - The House of Aia founder and CEO, Alex Ferri. The forward-thinking programming at this beautiful eco-resort (which bans plastic, uses solar panels for electricity, and embraces “community”) encouraged me to step out of my comfort zone and into alternative healing, but with a high degree of luxury, including a private beach, suites connected to swimming pools, personal butlers, and an in-house shaman. “We believe that inner exploration is key to creating meaningful change,” says Ferri. “What better place to achieve this than at the cradle of one of the most important ancient civilizations, The Maya.”

SEDONA, ARIZONA Sedona has been long considered a place of healing, where the first visitors, Native Americans, made a pilgrimaged here for ceremonies, spiritual quests, and rehabilitation. Fast-forward two millennium later and, well…not much has changed in this low-key, scenic desert town cradled in a picturesque valley. Travelers continue to flock to the ancient red rocks for holistic (and hedonistic) adventures, including hikes through more than 150 trails snaking throughout the canyons. Just walking among the Red Rocks creates a sense of relaxation. There’s some great energy here, including the famed vortexes, which are strong energy points. Vortexes allegedly affect a person to feel positive, inspired, and healed, and some visitors have even experienced miracles. Sedona is chockfull of vortexes, which could explain its metaphysical impact and ability to seduce spiritual-minded visitors. “Vortex sites facilitate prayer, meditation, mind/body healing and exploring your relationship with your divine,” says Dustin Donahue, spa director at L’Auberge de Sedona, a five-star resort known for its unobstructed views

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meditation destinations

Photo: Mike Liu

Cathedral Rock in Sedona, Arizona

of the commanding red rocks. “They are locations having energy flows in those deeper dimensions that the soul can soar on, making Sedona the perfect place to try meditation. When people come to Sedona, I find they are seeking part inspiration and part comfort and relief.” Vortexes are also the reason why Sedona has attracted yogis, psychics, spiritual advisors and wellness enthusiasts for decades, and it’s one of my favorite places to meditate. Whether you join a tour or set off on your own, you’ll find the red rocks are incredibly healing like I did. The most popular hiking trail is Devil’s Bridge, though one of the most powerful vortexes can be found at Cathedral Rock, incidentally one of the most sought-after spots for hiking, too. Cathedral Rock, in Coconino National Forest, is magnificently majestic, protruding high in Sedona’s landscape as a natural landmark with rising spires and monoliths towering from the trail entrance; it’s where I’ve spent hours reflecting. If you want to dig deeper on a spiritual level, check out Sedona Metaphysical Spiritual Association (sedonaspiritual.com). The local organization offers a wealth of information, as well as workshops, lectures, ceremonies, counseling, and retreats in the area. They’re also known for working with local practitioners who offer alternative healing, whether it’s cleansing your aura, balancing your chakra, trying hypnotherapy, or healing through frequency. Stay at L’Auberge de Sedona, an intimate boutique hotel situated right on Oak Creek and nestled in abundant nature. My Vista Suite had a striking view of the red rocks, which at times, felt larger than life. It was hard to leave. Guests can feel restored in the spa, and also find inner peace in the vortex treehouse, which features “floating meditation,” where guests float from a silk hammock cocooning their body, framed by the views of the red rocks, and, of course, surrounded by the vortex energy.

THE MALDIVES Likely the screensaver on your computer, the landscape of crystal-clear lagoons, blue sky, and white beaches can seduce one into instant meditation, proving the power of nature in mental health, but this powerful backdrop is quite literally what you wake up to every day in the Maldives. The Maldives is my go-to meditation destination, and it’s a preferred getaway for affluent travelers who want to truly escape. These exclusive, luxury-drenched islands in the Indian Ocean trigger an immediate sense of calm, and they’re quite remote, so avoiding distraction comes effortlessly in fact, you can go days, even your entire vacation, without seeing another soul. Here, the connection to nature is unreal. I’ve snorkeled with stingrays and sea turtles, did sunrise yoga on the beach with a private instructor, and meditated in my overwater bungalow. Ultimately, the Maldives is paradise, and paradise heals. One of the best resorts to meditate is Kudadoo. The private island sanctuary only has 14 villas, so it’s incredibly private. When I checked in, there was only one other reservation (a gay couple), who I only saw once. Kudadoo is the type of place you don’t have to go out of your way to meditate. I had thoughtful reflections simply hanging out in my infinity pool, taking strolls on the beach and laying in swaying hammocks. Kudadoo is an all-inclusive resort, including unlimited spa treatments in its bi-level spa. Guests can have as many treatments as they wish, whether a Balinese massage with Tibetan sound healing or coconut body polish, but the resort taps into even deeper experiences, like pressurepoint reflexology, chakra balancing meditation, and reiki. It’s also the only spa in the Maldives with a Himalayan salt chamber, Lonu Cave, lined with mineral-rich Himalayan salt known for healing qualities, easing muscles, and restoration. Outdoor spas in the Maldives are often as spacious as entire boutique DECEMBER 2020 I PASSPORT

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meditation destinations

Kudadoo Villa, Kuda, Kudadoo Private Island by Hurawahhi, Maldives

Ananda in the Himalayas

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meditation destinations

The Ritz-Carlton Kyoto

hotels, and most luxury resorts are equipped with wellness gurus and curated programs. Throw in the high level of privacy and mesmerizing landscapes, and meditation becomes effortless, and worth the far-flung journey.

KYOTO, JAPAN People who regularly meditate are drawn to intimate settings, including special meditation rooms, gardens, holy places, and along rivers, and Kyoto, Japan has it all. Famous for its 2,000 Buddhist temples and shrines, Kyoto, along the Kamo River, is as Zen as it gets, embellished with imperial palaces, lush, sprawling public gardens, and the magnificent backdrop of the nearby Higashiyama Mountains. If you’re not surrounded by the sound of pure nature, you could be lulled into a peaceful state with traditional Shakuhachi (Japanese bamboo flute) seemingly everywhere. I spent hours wandering Nanzen-ji, the most famous Zen temple dating back to the 13th century, as well as the iconic Golden Pavilion, a temple made completely out of gold leaf towering over a tranquil pond. Like me, most visitors will make a beeline to Arashiyama Bamboo Grove, one of Kyoto’s most photographed attractions, which offers paths for meditative wandering. A wonderful way to see Kyoto is with Inside Japan Tours, which offers self-guided and group trips. Various itineraries offer special ways to connect with Kyoto and with yourself, like visiting an onsen hot spring bath and meditating with a Buddhist priest in a temple. Kyoto has long been famous for traditional ryokan inns, but luxury hotels have been opening throughout the city, like the Four Seasons and Ace. Ritz-Carlton Kyoto, however, was the first to arrive in 2012, offering 134 tranquil, Japanese-style rooms with furnished decks, high-end restaurants, and an intimate spa. In a place like Kyoto, simply watching the locals around you brings clarity. I felt a particular awe and respect for their appreciation of culture, history, nature, family, and spirituality. This grew on me and made me reflect on my life in a way I wouldn’t back home. Traveling allows one to grow, learn, absorb and appreciate, and in places like Kyoto, Maldives, Sedona and Riviera Maya, I was able to make a special connection with each des-

tination. More importantly, each place provided the perfect setting for me to spend alone time, relax my brain, and remember to take a deep breath. I now meditate every day in New York City, whether during walks with my dog or on my yoga mat in the morning, but I truly commit and reach my personal best when I’m in these stunning destinations.

meditation resources Ananda in the Himalayas. The Palace Estate, Narendra Nagar, Uttarakhand 249175, India. Tel: 91-1378-227-901. Award-winning, Oprah Winfrey-approved wellness retreat in the Himalayas. anandaspa.com Banyan Tree Mayakoba. Carretera Federal Chetumal-Puerto Jaurez, Playa Del Carmen, Quintana Roo, Mexico. Tel: 52-984-877-3688. Five-star resort in Mayakoba with excellent spa and luxurious villas. banyantree.com Nizuc Resort. Boulevard Kukulcan Mz 59 Lote 1-03, Punta Nizuc, 77500 Cancun, Mexico. Tel: 52-998-891-5700. 274-room luxury resort with a private beach, tropical gardens and gorgeous ESPA spa. nizuc.com Palmaia - The House of Aia. Paseo Xaman, Ha Late 1, Playacar, 77710 Playa Del Carmen, Mexico. Tel: 52-984-877-3830. 314-suite, all-inclusive eco-resort specializing in wellness. thehouseofaia.com L’Auberge de Sedona. 301 L’Auberge Lane, Sedona, Arizona 86336. Tel: 855905-5745. Intimate, 83-room property with luxury lodges and cottages and vortex treehouse. www.lauberge.com Kudadoo Private Island by Hurawalhi. Lhaviyani Atoll, Maldives. Tel: 960-662-2000. Five-star, 14-villa resort equipped with a pampering, bilevel spa (unlimited treatments) and butler service. kudadoo.com Inside Japan Tours. 1738 Pearl Street, Suite 302, Boulder, Colorado 80302. Tel: 303-952-0379. US-based tour operator providing seamless journeys to Japan. www.insidejapantours.com Ritz Carlton Kyoto. Kamogawa Nijo-Ohashi Hotori, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto, 604-0902 Japan, Tel: 81-75-746-5555. Intimate, five-star hotel located on Kamo River. ritzcarlton.com

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LAS VEGAS WANDERLUST

Photo: Benny Marty

by Jeff Heilman

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las vegas wanderlust

he eternal intrigue of Las Vegas starts with its mirage-like mystique. On paper, planting a pleasure empire in the scorching Mojave Desert seems hatched from a peyote button. Yet, pioneers have beaten the odds in the Valley since the Stone Age. The lifeblood was water from ancient aquifers below the desert surface. Hitting on these bubbling springs in 1829, trailblazing Spaniards named the locale “Las Vegas,” or “the meadows.” In 1905, with the water offering a prime refueling stop for the new railroad linking Salt Lake City and Los Angeles, the city officially arose on Fremont Street, the center of today’s resurgent Downtown. Protecting the site of these oases, which dried up in 1962, Springs Preserve (333 S. Valley View Blvd. Tel: 702-822-7700. www.springspreserve.org) is a national landmark sanctuary of botanical gardens, desert flora, and interpretive trails. The Divine Cafe at the Springs Preserve features outdoor seating with healthy fare and scenic Vegas skyline views, while the Origen Museum and Nevada State Museum showcase Vegas history through indoor and outdoor exhibits. Displays include the Hoover Dam (www.usbr.gov/lc/hooverdam), which along with the Grand

Photo: SNEHIT PHOTO

Lake Mead Recreation Area

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Canyon, is the leading off-Strip tourism destination. Straddling the Nevada-Arizona border 30 minutes southeast of Las Vegas in Boulder City, this hydroelectric wonder has powered the Valley’s growth, development, and success since 1936. Start at the Mike O'Callaghan–Pat Tillman Memorial Bridge (pedestrian pathway from the free parking lot after the security checkpoint) for a panoramic look at America’s highest concrete arch-dam. From the massive spillways and soaring main wall to the monumental Winged Figures of the Republic and High Scaler statue, the complex is aweinspiring. Ticketed activities include guided dam and power plant tours. Located near the dam’s base, there’s a launch site for kayaking, canoeing or rafting down the Colorado River through ancient volcanic Black Canyon. Permits are required and all equipment must be transported by a licensed operator (list on the Hoover Dam website). Unique features along the 11-mile route include the steamy, crystal-lined Sauna Cave; volcanic Dragon's Back outcropping; and shimmering green Emerald Cave. The dam created America’s largest reservoir, and with it, the nation’s first official recreational area, Boulder Dam. After adding Lake Mohave in 1947 following construction of the Davis Dam, the area was renamed Lake Mead (www.nps.gov/lake). Encompassing the two lakes along with mountains, valleys, and nine wilderness areas, the 1.5 million-acre park is Southern Nevada’s outdoor playground. Myriad attractions include the Historic Railroad Trail, offering panoramic lake views. For houseboat rentals and other recreational services, National Park Service-authorized operators include Lake Mead Mohave Adventures (www.lakemeadmohaveadventures.com). If urbex is your game, the abandoned Three Kids manganese mine off Lake Mead Parkway features the artist-created Wheel of Misfortune in one of the site’s giant circular pits. Five bucks at the boat shop gets you parking for a memorable photo op and vigilant walkaround. Connecting with Highway 147 from Las Vegas, nearby Highway 167 winds scenically through the park to the eastern entrance of Valley of Fire (bring cash for the entrance fee), where other photographic rewards include ancient petroglyphs and beguiling Elephant Rock. Set on a 176-acre riverside ranch east of the park in Bunkerville, Desert Ranch Experience by Camel Safari (www.desertranchexperience.com) offers ten traditional Mongolian gers for overnight glamping and up-close encounters with 30-plus camels and other exotic animals. Enhanced programs include round-trip Canna-Camels excursions from Vegas: after buying discounted goodies at a Vegas cannabis dispensary, it’s an 80-mile road trip to the ranch for hanging out with the camels and kicking back in a ger before heading back.

Laughlin, Nevada and the Colorado River

Photo: Gregory E. Clifford

e love exploring Las Vegas and discovering new experiences, but we often wonder what’s out there beyond the Strip. We wanted to know the best places to go, so we asked Jenelle Jacks, a passionate photographer who finds her bliss on regular outings throughout Southern Nevada. “There is this sense of unique beauty and adventure when you wander off into the desert and watch the skyline fade away,” said the Las Vegas native. “Surrounded by millions of years of geologic history, it is like leaving the modern world and traveling back in time.” Former International Marketing and PR Manager for the Las Vegas Convention and Visitors Authority, and most recently in the same role with Cirque du Soleil, Jacks has been “magnetized” by this prehistoric landscape since early childhood. “The serenity of the desert is the ultimate therapy,” she said. “That is, when I’m not climbing every rock face around town in pursuit of that perfect nature-meets-neon shot of the cityscape.” Her siren calls include Valley of Fire (www.parks.nv.gov/parks/valleyof-fire); Designated as Nevada’s first state park in 1935, this Aztec red wonderland of petrified Jurassic Period sand dunes, an hour north of Vegas, is out of this world. “I love the optical illusions that the park plays with my camera,” she said. “There are places where the road appears to melt or disappear over the hills.”

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las vegas wanderlust

Photo: Jenelle Jacks

Valley of Fire State Park

With so much to see, taste, explore, and experience, is it any wonder why Las Vegas continues to be one of the most popular destinations for travelers from around the world? ocated 90 miles south of Vegas in the Colorado River Valley where Nevada meets Arizona and nearby California, Laughlin (www.visitlaughlin.com) is one of four LVCVA-promoted satellites. While attracting a mix of older visitors, families, Colorado River enthusiasts, and the RV set, I had to satisfy my curiosity with this “alternate” Vegas. The drive alone was a trip. Nevada is famed for its extraterrestrial highways and Routes 95 and 163 are no exception. Heading there in an afternoon heat mirage and returning under a galactic night sky was right out of Star Wars. Surveying the same area by plane in 1964, Minnesota-born slots and nightclub entrepreneur Don Laughlin had his own starry visions. Deciding on a mostly barren sliver of land bordering the Colorado River, his development efforts began by transforming a shuttered motel. In 1966, his namesake (courtesy of a local postal inspector) destination was born. Now a sprightly 89, Laughlin keeps a penthouse suite and walks the casino floor nightly at his much-expanded Riverside Resort Hotel & Casino (www.riversideresort.com). With 1,352 rooms in two towers, including the river-facing South Tower with its adults-only pool, the resort’s time capsules include the fine-dining Gourmet Room and Don’s

Celebrity Theater, where I saw a rousing show from legendary songwriter and performer Tony Orlando. Familiar flags along Casino Drive include Harrah’s, Tropicana, and The New Pioneer, featuring “River Rick,” cousin of Fremont Street’s Vegas Vic neon cowboy. “Find your peaceful center” at artist Wes Dudek’s nine circular stone Laughlin Labyrinths in the hills overlooking Casino Drive. Some eight centuries earlier, skilled Patayan and Yuman hands created the stylish petroglyphs of Grapevine Canyon on nearby Spirit Mountain. Accessed from Christmas Tree Pass, a graded dirt road off Route 163, the trail to these sacred designs includes distant views of Arizona’s Sleeping Princess Mountain. Laughlin Boat Tours (www.laughlinboattours.com) operates Colorado River jet boat rides to Lake Havasu, Arizona. Passing through spectacular Topock Gorge, the 116-mile roundtrip experience, with a lunch stop by London Bridge, famously exported from England in 1971, was exhilarating. Ancient petroglyphs are also found in Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area (www.redrockcanyonlv.org) just west of Vegas. Dinosaurs once roamed this ancient ocean basin, where other stops along 13-mile Scenic Drive include climbable Aztec sandstone cliffs and multiple trails leading

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Sparrow + Wolf

Esther's Kitchen Chef James Trees

Photo: Peter Harastys

Chef Brian Howard

Photo: David Becker

Photo: Courtesy of Timeless Cuisine

Photo: Sabin Orr

las vegas wanderlust

Donald Contursi

into the park’s labyrinthine canyons. Arrive early, it’s popular. Home to 11,916-foot Charleston Peak (www.gomtcharleston.com), nearby Spring Mountains National Recreation Area is another locals’ playground for hiking, horseback riding, mountain biking, rock climbing, and skiing. Unique attractions include the hike-in Mary Jane Falls. Paralleling Death Valley National Park (which hit 130-plus degrees this summer), desolate Highway 95 leads two hours north to the ghost town of Ryholite and nearby Goldwell Open Air Museum, where giant outdoor sculptures include a haunting “Last Supper.” More art beckons an hour north in historic overnight-capable Goldfield, including The International Car Forest of the Last Church. xpanding culinary tourism is part of a larger trend that is taking place in this desert oasis. “Growing awareness of Vegas’s multidimensionality is making travelers more adventurous,” said Donald Contursi, founder of Lip Smacking Foodie Tours (www.lipsmackingfoodietours.com). “While not always sexy and polished, off-Strip realms are hard to beat if you value real and authentic.” As a top-selling server at high-end Strip restaurants, the native Chicagoan once customized culinary experiences for guests. In 2015, he parlayed that passion into his informative VIP-style insider tours, which eliminate the guesswork of where and what to eat. “There are hundreds of options on the Strip and Downtown alone,” said Contursi, whose tours cover both. “With their table waiting at the restaurants on our programs, our guests bypass the line, enjoy select signature bites, and move on. People want that exclusive feeling in Vegas.” After a decade of revitalization, Downtown is a dynamic dining

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destination, with reneergized Fremont East primed for culinary and cocktail crawls. My go-to joints include Downtown Cocktail Room and Evel Pie (evelpie.com) for the Snake River rattlesnake sausage slice. Convivial gastropub Carson Kitchen, breakfast and lunch oasis eat. and tasting plate-driven 7th & Carson are draws on adjacent Carson Street. Updating a 1940’s motel, Fergusons Downtown is a new communal hub featuring izakaya-style Hatsumi and Mexican La Monja Cantina from Dan Krohmer, one of three off-Strip 2020 James Beard Best Chef: Southwest nominees for his seafood-driven Other Mama in Spring Valley, by Chinatown. Attached to Atomic Liquors, Vegas’s oldest standalone bar, late-night magnet Kitchen at Atomic was recently helmed by Strip veteran Justin Kingsley Hall, who is now prepping his Main St. Provisions in another hot culinary destination, the 18b Arts District (www.dtlvarts.com) Zoned for creativity, this historic neighborhood below Downtown brims with culinary talent. Champions include local son James Trees for his outstanding Esther’s Kitchen (www.estherslv.com). Raised on pasta and trained by the best, including Eric Ripert and Gordon Ramsay, Trees’ Italian soul food, such as my scratch-made cacio e pepe, is five-star amore. Pioneers mingling with Main Street’s antique vendors include sister mixologists Pamela and Christina Dylag, who opened their Velveteen Rabbit (velveteenrabbitlv.com) in 2013. “These trendsetting boss babes bewitch the bar with alchemy, art, and hyper-creative cocktails,” said Mariena Mercer-Boarini, who after leading the cocktail program at The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas for the last

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las vegas wanderlust

istory and culture are always at the mercy of continual reinvention in this desert citadel, but there is always a plethora of amazing experiences just waiting for visitors to discover. “Las Vegas isn’t concerned with what we were yesterday or with what we are today,” once noted the late Hal Rothman, chair of UNLV’s History Department and foremost Vegas authority of his time. “It’s tomorrow that entices us.” Dazzlers in the current $16 billion investment wave include the under-construction MSG Sphere, a futuristic entertainment orb with revolutionary audio and visual systems, and Elon Musk’s subterranean Tesla “hyperloop” transport system under the expanding convention district, and potentially the Vegas core itself. Amid shiny new things, vintage landmarks shine even brighter.

Photo: Radiant Inc.

Raquel Reed

In September 1928, Overland Hotel owner Ethel Guenter switched on her new “Neon gas-electric sign” and gave Las Vegas its signature art form and identifier. Another woman, Betty Willis, designed the landmark 1959 ‘Welcome to Fabulous Las Vegas’ sign, which along with Flamingo’s 1968 plume, updated in 1975, and Lucky the Clown at Circus Circus (1976) are the Strip’s sole yesteryear survivors. The old guard lives on though at Downtown’s Neon Museum (www.neonmuseum.org), where still-electrified retirees include the martini-glass beauty from late 60’s gay bar Red Barn. Digital artist Craig Winslow’s reanimation of classic inoperable signs, choreographed to classic Vegas tunes, is truly “Brilliant!” Heirlooms dotting the Downtown landscape include The Silver Slipper; Hacienda Hotel’s Caballero on a Palomino; and Willis’s recently restored 1957 Blue Angel Motel sign (also look for the “Phalanx of Angels Descending” mural inspired by the 16-foot tall icon). Seven Magic Mountains

Photo: PradaBrown

decade, is now focusing on her cocktail consultancy Wander*lush. Harnessing the face-numbing power of her revolutionary Verbena cocktail, her new flavor- and sensation-enhancing Electra powder is “the secondbest thing to do with your tongue.” Housed in a former garage, Jammyland Cocktail Bar & Reggae Kitchen is for Caribbean fare and inventive cocktails. Adjacent to the Arts Factory Building, The Garden Las Vegas (www.thegardenlasvegas.com) is a new “ultra-lounge” from local LGBTQ nightlife veteran Eduardo Cordova. Chinatown’s culinary star is also rising. Long dominated by a melting pot of Asian restaurants along Spring Mountain Road, the community west of the Strip has seen an expanding menu of choices in recent years. Vanguards include Brian Howard’s nationally acclaimed Sparrow + Wolf (www.sparrowandwolflv.com) and Khai Vu’s East-meets-West District One Kitchen & Bar and new Latin-Japanese Mordeo Boutique Wine Bar. Other hot tickets include EDO Gastro Tapas & Wine; Modern French-inspired Partage; and Modern Thai eatery Lamaii. The Golden Tiki (www.thegoldentiki.com) is a 24/7 Vegas classic. The culinary landscape of Las Vegas is becoming one of the most diverse in the USA. According to Contursi, whose tours also cover The Arts District and Chinatown, and who introduced his self-guided Finger Licking Foodie Tours during the pandemic, “It takes research and legwork. Let GPS, rideshare, and wanderlust be your guides.”

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Photo: Dennis Dean

las vegas wanderlust

Neon Museum

At historic Fremont and Main, developer Derek Stephens owns Vegas’s original hotel, the Golden Gate (1906), and its latest, Circa Las Vegas (www.circalasvegas.com). Where the Overland once stood, this sleek adults-only tower features a tiered outdoor pool amphitheater and Vegas Vickie in the lobby, while her 40-foot tall pal Vegas Vic still stands sentinel at the nearby Pioneer Club. The City of Las Vegas’s downtown improvement project, Project Enchilada, is returning vintage motel signs to East Fremont, where the 1941 El Cortez (www.elcortezhotelcasino.com) is Vegas’s oldest continuously operating casino. Adorned with classic signage, this time capsule features a vintage barbershop, a floor of original guestrooms, and $5 margaritas all day, every day. Bugsy Siegel, who had a stake in the El Cortez before founding the Flamingo, is featured at Downtown’s National Museum of Organized Crime and Law Enforcement, or Mob Museum (www.themobmuseum.org). Housed in Vegas’s original 1933 U.S. Courthouse and Post Office, arresting draws include the courtroom where the nationally televised Kefauver hearings on Mafia involvement in Vegas were held in 1950. Visit the website for the weekly password to access the basementlevel Speakeasy Bar. Dating to early showgirls and the first topless Minsky shows in 1957 at The Dunes, burlesque and other risqué entertainment are also Vegas signatures. “Less so these days after Jubilee! closed (in 2016, after 35 years at the Tropicana),” said international headliner and model Raquel Reed, who stars in the smash adult hit Absinthe at Caesars 56

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Palace. “But a solid handful of us keep it going here.” Guardians include Dustin Wax, executive director of the Burlesque Hall of Fame (www.burlesquehall.com). Featuring informative panels and vintage ephemera, this pioneering Arts District museum was originated by late tassel-twirling legend Jennie Lee. Wax and his team promote this historic art form through community events and the annual Burlesque Hall of Fame Weekend. Reigning burlesque queens Dita Von Teese and Dirty Martini are board members. Veteran Vegas choreographer and dancer Jennifer Romas maintains the topless tradition with SEXXY: The Show (www.westgateresorts.com), her award-winning revue at the near-Strip Westgate Cabaret. In its International and Las Vegas Hilton days, Westgate presented the ultimate Vegas dinner show—Elvis Presley. Today, visitors can combine SEXXY, Barry Manilow, and other entertainment with award-winning cuisine at Edge Steakhouse or Fresco Italiano. Executive Chef Steve Young, who began his Vegas career in the French-speaking kitchen of three Michelin star L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon at MGM Grand, has elevated both restaurants to number one Trip Advisor rankings. Italian food, live entertainment, and gaming are original dance partners in Vegas, starting at the Pair O’ Dice (1931), the first club on the future Strip. Keeping the sauce and the groove on since 1949, Bootlegger Italian Bistro (www.bootleggerlasvegas.com) is a 24-hour family-run gem with matriarch “Mama” Maria Perry, 102, still on hand. Her daughter, Lorraine Hunt-Bono, whose group “The Lauri Perry Four” opened Howard

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East Fremont Public Art

Photo: Peter Ruprecht

Hughes’ Landmark Hotel in 1969, provides the showbiz lineage and more, including serving as Nevada’s 32nd Lieutenant Governor. Continue south on the Boulevard to Seven Magic Mountains (www.sevenmagicmountains.com), Swiss artist Ugo Rondinone’s desert installation of seven towering dayglow-painted limestone totems. Where to next? Chinatown’s renowned Las Vegas Little Theater, or the Liberace Museum Collection? The 1913 Pioneer Saloon, Southern Nevada’s oldest bar with its Carole Lombard memorial wall, or 24-hour Planet 13, the world’s largest marijuana dispensary? After 34 years of visiting Las Vegas, fanning out has only deepened my bond with this town. There’s always something exciting ahead, like AREA15 (www.area15.com). Opened in September 2020, this much anticipated “experiential retail and entertainment complex” looks mindblowing. Creative partners include Blue Man Group co-founder Chris Wink, who in the role of Director of Content and Cool Shit, is introducing projects like “Wink World: Portals to the Infinite,” described as “equal parts psychedelic art house and carnival funhouse.” Santa Fe, NM-based interactive art pioneer Meow Wolf has created the surreal Omega Market supermarket experience. L.A.’s Lost Spirits Distillery, described by Smithsonian Magazine as “a high-end Willy Wonka experience for adults and a Disneyland for drinkers” is also setting up here. With so much to see, taste, explore, and experience, is it any wonder why Las Vegas continues to be one of the most popular destinations for travelers from around the world?

Photo: Jeff Heilman

las vegas wanderlust

AREA15 Art Island

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travelbound Hot Type for the Holidays by

One sliver of silver lining to being largely housebound through 2020’s pandemic has been the chance to reJim Gladstone engage with the joy of reading. So many of us have tapped back into the pleasures that emerge from uninterrupted hours of time with a good book. Whether between hardcovers, on a tablet screen, or through earbuds, books provide a dependable way to travel through time and space, even when we’re physically restricted. Whether it’s to learn more about the world we’re struggling with today, or to escape into the realms of fantasy and imagination, reading is a gift we can easily give to ourselves and others during even the most trying times. Here’s a sled full of suggestions for the holiday season.

—Jim Gladstone

QUIRKY QUEER FANTASIAS

LITERATURE IN ELF-SIZED PORTIONS

The real world slathered in magical frosting

Gay short stories for long winter nights

Boys of Alabama (Liveright. $26.95. www.genevieve-hudson.com), “American boys are clever, thought Max, and they want to trick you.” Max is a German teenager unexpectedly transplanted to rural Alabama when his father, who works for Volkswagen, transfers to a U.S. plant. His preconception of southern youth is modeled on Tom Sawyer, who he recalls conning his neighbors into painting a fence. In the contemporary America of Genevieve Hudson’s bewitching salamagundi of a first novel, the locals have different tricks up their sleeves: The small town of Delilah is home to a holy rolling Fundamentalist church where worshippers, including most of Max’s school football teammates, handle snakes and speak in tongues. Max also struggles with strangeness of his own: For one thing, he’s gay; for another he has the power to revive dead things. Max’s closest new American friend is a genderqueer Latinx goth kid named Pan, who, thanks to Hudson’s provocative resistance of virtually every stereo-type her characters might suggest, is not a butt of bullying who Max swoops in to save. Merging Norman Rockwell charm, Shirley Jackson chills, and achy teen romance, Hudson builds a singular fictive world with a lyrical tone all its own.

If We Were Electric (University of Georgia Press. $19.95. www.patrickearlryan.com). Give a gift for each of the 12 days of Christmas with the dozen stories in Patrick Ryan’s dazzling debut collection, winner of the prestigious Flannery O’Connor award for short fiction, judged this past year by Roxanne Gay. A native New Orleanian who currently lives in San Francisco, Ryan, who is in his forties, combines the insight of a seasoned writer with the crackling energy of a literary wunderkind. Every one of these Louisiana-set tales is densely populated and richly detailed. They almost burst at the seams, as if each story had the potential to grow into a novel. The result is work that practically rustles off the page, with even minor characters offering major memorability. The book’s first story, “Before Las Blancas,” is a near-cinematic marvel, featuring a thirteen year old gay boy who runs away from home with a 28-year-old colleague of his mother’s, all the while pining for one classmate who has accidentally killed another. These dangerous, heartwrenching stories will grab you like kudzu and suck you in like a swamp.

Moonstone—The Boy Who Never Was (Farrar Straus Giroux. $15. www.sjon.siberia.is). Originally published in 2016, this eerie, erotic historical fantasy by the poet and novelist Sjon takes on new urgency in the era of the coronavirus. Set in Reykjavik, Iceland during the Spanish flu epidemic of 1918, this haunting, under-200page tale follows a 16-year-old rent boy whose obsession with silent film blends with his dreams and his fevered imagination. Balancing sex, cinema and horror in a shimmering equipoise, Sjon—with the impressive translator Victoria Cribb—will creep into your head with this unshakable story of alienation and strange magic. Like its title, this is a spooky, sparkling gem.

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I Know You Know Who I Am (Penguin. $16. www.peterkispert.com). In his debut story collection, Peter Kispert, still in his 20s, exhibits a cool, sharp style and a finely attuned ear for spare-but-telling dialogue. The book is reminiscent of early ‘80s David Leavitt, but it arrives at a time when stories about middle-class gay men muddling their way through early adulthood are far less novel in mainstream literature. The ensuing decades have mercifully made such characters’ coming out experiences far less powerful storytelling fodder. But Kispert, who smartly avoids such oft-told tales, seizes on one of their underlying elements: Virtually everyone who eventually comes out as gay (and hopefully grows comfortable being so), has spent a portion of his life in reflexive duplicity, defensively projecting an untrue story about himself. In his collection’s best pieces, Kispert gives us characters who have become particularly adept at lying and compulsively continue to do so long after it serves them well. There’s the self-proclaimed champion diver who’s actually afraid of the water; the guy who pretends to be Christian in order to keep an observant

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travelbound beau interested; and the fellow who falsely claims to be a hunter, then queasily kills a deer to save face. Might there be a flash of your own reflection in these stories’ glimmer and sting?

GREAT ESCAPES Inspiration for future journeys Fifteen Icelandic Swimming Pools (Elska. $12. www.elskamagazine.com). Since 2015, writer/photographer Liam Campbell has created and published Elska, a beautiful, body-positive magazine, each issue of which features intimate, expressive photo essays about gay men from a different city in the world. From Kuala Lumpur, to Warsaw, to Lyon, to Pittsburgh, Campbell avoids gay clichés, in both his choice of locales and style of portraiture (which isn’t to say there’s a shortage of nudes). In his delightfully straightforward first book, Campbell shares a solo trip to his own favorite travel destination, Iceland, where he revels in the country’s avid national pastime of gathering at public pools and hot tubs. There’s an affable eroticism to Campbell’s diary-like chapters, but his voice and images are refreshingly lacking in the luric and are utterly engaging. Campbell indirectly suggests that he may have Asperger’s syndrome or a related spectrum disorder, referring to a pressing need to quell the build-up of anxiety and his “special brain”. His clear-eyed perspective is special indeed and his book provides a lovely philosophical framework for anyone seeking a restorative, low-key vacation. Inside Marrakech: Enchanting Homes and Gardens (Rizzoli. $60. www.rizzoliusa.com). Want a sneaky, subversive and utterly tasteful gift for your conservative relatives? Sway them gently toward sanity with hotelier Meryanne Loum-Martin and photographer Jean Cazal’s sumptuous coffee table celebration of architecture, textiles, and decor as showcased by the fancypants likes of Yves St. Laurent, Jasper Conran and Brice Marden, and the Bulgari family. Seems none of these folks have had a problem making homes for themselves and supporting local artisans and historical preservationists in the cultural center of a country that’s 99% Muslim. What a puckishly elegant way to point out the gorgeous influences of Islamic culture on the world. Fire On The Island (Arcade Crimewise. $24.99. www.timothyjaysmith.com). Timothy Jay Smith, who last year gave us a complex and credible queer C.I.A. agent in the hardedged espionage thriller The Fourth Courier, shifts federal agency and overall tone in a charming page-turner featuring gay FBI agent Nick Damigos, who solves mysteries while wooing a hunky young bar-tender in a Greek island village. Smith deftly folds earnest insights about Greece’s current economic and refugee crises into the novel’s plot without weighing down its atmospheric and romantic pleasures. Lusty barmaids, a randy goat of a priest, a jack-of-all-trades mayor, and a ragtag fleet of sardine fishermen are among a cast of characters who evoke Mamma Mia more than John LeCarré, which is just fine! This is an engaging picture postcard of a read, a fizzy much-needed tonic.

Rimowa (Rizzoli. $95. www.rizzoliusa.com). Honey, we’ve all got our baggage. But only some of us are fortunate enough to have baggage made by Rimowa, the luxury luggage brand that was founded in Cologne, Germany in the late 19th century and acquired by LVMH in 2017. For less than the price of the smallest of Rimowa’s most iconic aluminum and polycarbonate roller bags— instantly recognizable be-cause they’re ribbed for your traveling pleasure—this lavishly illustrated archive of luggage design and jetsetters’ ephemera makes a terrific gift for temporarily grounded travel enthusiasts. Featuring blueprints, vintage advertisements, and beauty shots of everything from vintage wood and leather steamer trunks to virtually indestructible featherweight contemporary luggage, this book will hold your attention until your luggage can take flight and hold your belongings once again.

NATURAL WONDERS Curious minds on fascinating lifeforms The Book of Eels (HarperCollins. $28.99. www.harpercollins.com). “The one that got away,” a frequent theme of fishing tales, takes on new resonance in Swedish writer Patrick Svensson’s combination of memoir and miscellany. As a young boy, the author bonded with his father over their nocturnal eel-fishing expeditions (smoked eel was a traditional Swed-ish delicacy, but overfishing has now made it a controversial dish). But after his father’s death, Svensson, now a journalist, took on the unique project of simultaneously exploring both prey and patriarch. Lushly written autobiographical passages slither between chunks of scientific, literary and historical research, in which the writer recounts everything from the interpretation of eels in Shakespeare and Freud, to the natural mysteries of the eel’s origins and—of special interest to queer readers—their metamorphosizing gender: Every eel spends part of its life as male and part as female. Entangled Life: How Fungi Make Our Worlds, Change Our Minds and Shape Our Futures (Random House. $28. www.merlinsheldrake.com). Author Merlin Sheldrake, a British biologist and entrancingly poetic writer, serves as tour guide in this fantastic voyage into a realm of botany that will have readers rethinking their next slice of mushroom pizza. We learn about fungi that insinuate themselves into the bodies of carpenter ants, turning the insects into zombies that do the bidding of their vegetable masters. We discover vast underground networks of fungi that transmit information over miles-long communication systems. And we even learn how the psychedelic properties of some mushrooms are transforming medicine and psychotherapy.

LEATHER AND TINSEL All dressed up in their holiday best Confess: The Autobiography (Hachette Books. $26. www.hachettebookgroup.com). In the 1970s and ‘80s, many self-acknowledged gay men remained closeted in their worklife, thinking that coming out might destroy careers in law, medicine, government and, of course, Heavy Metal. Whether or not you’re a headbanger, this candid bio from Rob Halford, celebrated lead singer of Judas Priest, is worth cracking open. You may find you have more in common with the

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travelbound strutting, studded rocker than you’d expect. Halford, who grew up in blue collar British steel town, was a bookish literature major who fashioned early lyrics on William Blake, and a theater lover since boyhood. He has also chronicled gay life in Priest lyrics for many decades, but record labels, rock radio, and most fans were willfully oblivious to the likes of Halford’s 1973 description of Fire Island in “Raw Deal”: “Them steely leather guys were fooling with the denim dudes” and taken by surprise when the singer formally came out in a 1991 interview. Now, Halford cheerfully tells tales featuring everyone from Tom of Finland to Marie Osmond. His star-struck first trip to New York at 26 finds Halford covering the pop-cultural waterfront, from a screening of “Deep Throat” to a night at Studio 54. And he writes with great wry humor, exemplified by the story of his father discovering the dildo that 15-year-old Halford had stashed in his bedroom: “Without even looking up from his paper, he addressed a comment toward me: ‘You might want to get rid of that object, Rob.” The Candy Book of Transversal Creativity (Rizzoli. $60. www.byluisvenegas.com). Luis Venegas, the Madrid-based publisher and impresario behind a series of independent limited circulation magazines, coined the word transversal to express a hybrid notion of transition, transformation, transgression, and here’s the welcome surprise, universality. Then he created Candy, named for Warhol star Candy Darling, as a visual showcase for the concept. Beginning in 2009, twelve issues of this fat, sassy celebration of selfhood have been printed, each in runs of 1,500 and less (single back issues currently sell for $275 and more). This new hardback volume compiles the periodical’s snazziest spreads, with eyepopping photography of gender-queer and androgynous subjects from Tilda Swinton to Amanda Lepore to Aquaria to Janet Mock. It’s a smashingly designed tome that’s as much a tribute to magazine making as it is to the spirit of its subjects.

GOOD TIDINGS TO ALL Thoughtful takes on our shared humanity The Freezer Door (Semiotexte. $17.95. www.mattildabernsteinsycamore.com). Almost indescribably eclectic in both prose style and cornucopic social content, the sometimes dizzying, frequently devastating memoirs and autobiographical novels of Mattilda Bernstein Sycamore (Sketchtasy, The End of San Francisco, Pulling Taffy) prickle and tickle all at once. None more so than his latest, in which the genderqueer logonaut takes his pen to the gentrification and whitewashing of our cities and our bodies. What at first may feel like an unedited stream of con-

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sciousness, turns out to shrewdly loop back on itself as the author exposes harsh ironies of contemporary American LGBTQ life. On postPrEP urbanity: “We live in a far different world than the one where an HIV diagnosis meant imminent death, but we also live in a world where public demand for a cure is nearly nonexistent.” On internet hook-ups: “The best way to avoid bad sex is to search for good sex online, until you can’t find anything but the searching.” Mixing horror with humor, this is a book in which the author’s painful memories of being raped by his father jostle up against his hoariest of dad jokes. Experimental, yes; and the test tubes get thrillingly fizzy. The Groom Will Keep His Name (Bold Type Books. $16.99. www.boldtypebooks.com). Matt Ortile’s bracing, compulsively readable essays explore his experiences in intersectionality: He's a gay man, a Filipino immigrant, a brownskinned person. While sometimes lighthearted, and always infused with a cheeky sense of humor, Ortile is not another “new Sedaris”; he’s a serious writer, directly taking on major cultural issues. He’s at his best when keeps things personal and grounds his bigger ideas in little details. The book’s first piece, an examination of how Ortile has used fashion choices to express, assert, deny, and celebrate his identity is generally terrific, only faltering when he occasionally leans into more academic prose stylings. His look at the functions of casual sex in his early years in New York is fresh, in-sightful, and told with an honest and much appreciated lack of shame or regret. Another essay, in which he considers and reconsiders his under-graduate years at Vassar finds Ortile purposefully twisting in self-contradiction; its as if we’re with him, watching him think, live on the page. Good Boy: My Life in Seven Dogs (Celadon Books. $26.99. www.jenniferboylan.net). Jennifer Finney Boylan is always good company. In her affable, shaggily constructed latest memoir, the transgender author, activist and New York Times columnist retells the story of her life, much of which will be familiar to readers of her earlier books, including the sublime She’s Not There, using a canine framework. Boylan reminisces about the solace and often unconditional affection that a series of dogs have given her through even the unsteadiest passages of her own life. Among her fourlegged friends are childhood pet Playboy, an ungainly Dalmatian who elicited open affection from Boylan’s generally inexpressive father; Matt the Mutt, whose prescription for female hormones was strangely tempting to the author at the age of 21; and Ranger, a black Labrador puppy, who served as a precious emotional common denominator linking Boylan, her wife and sons in the immediate wake of transition. The dog stories here are well-told and familiar, themselves perhaps the sort of common denominator that could make Boylan’s gender journey more accessible to otherwise reluctant readers. And the final chapter’s revelation that, to Boylan’s utter surprise, one of her own grown children is trans, will leave the author’s loyal longtime readership panting for a further volume.

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HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE CONDUCTOR TIM SEELIG WORLD EATS BARCELONA FOOD & DRINK FOR YOUR SKIN HARD ROCK INTERNATIONAL

Photo: Kiselev Andrey Valerevich

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travelinggourmet FOOD AND DRINK FOR YOUR SKIN by Rich Rubin

THREE SISTERS APOTHECARY Penngrove, California Some of the best skin care products in the world (I’m not exaggerating) come from Sonoma County-based Three Sisters Apothecary (5400 Old Redwood Highway North, Penngrove, CA. Tel: 707-888-5659. www.soapcauldron.com), where soap artisan Emma Mann makes it a point to source ingredients locally. Case in point: their Gravenstein Apple/Clove line, from a swirly brown/green bar soap to a bath salt soak, body butter, and lip balm. All have a subtle hint of sweetness and a deeply spicy and refreshing feel, with the apple powder derived from local Gravenstein apples (before becoming famous as a wine region, Sonoma County was known for its apple orchards). Three Sisters offers a whole buffet of foodie products and another favorite is the California Mission Fig/Honey line, available in soap, bath salt, body butter, and lip soother. Dessert time? Black Licorice/Vanilla and Dark Chocolate/Mint fit the bill. In a citrus mood? Mexican Lime/Cilantro, Blood Orange Cardamom

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Photo: Poznyakov.

think everyone knows by now that I love good food and drink, but what you may not know is that some of my favorite skin care products are made from food and beverages. I try to be as attentive to what I put ON my body as to what goes inside it, so I’ve gathered an assortment of fabulous companies to pamper your outsides. These companies use natural plants, fruits and herbs to create wonderful “meals” for your skin. I’ve highlighted my favorites for each, but they all offer a veritable skincare smorgasbord.

or Meyer Lemon Agave. You can find Three Sisters products in stores from Sonoma County to Berkeley, but I suggest going to see them make the soaps and pick out exactly what you want from their spot in Barn 5400, a converted artisans’ space in Penngrove. There’s no limit to Mann’s creativity and experimentation: she makes a new product for each solstice, and you can even get a Coconut/Lemon or Cedar/Pink Grapefruit soap for your dog from their Soapy Tails line. When I visit, she’s working on a chai soap using tea from a local producer (again, there’s that word “local”). “I want it to matter that I know what goes into

making everything,” says Mann as she packs up my usual plethora of delights. Try this cornucopia of skin care pleasures, as familiar as your last meal but somehow always carrying a surprising twist, and you’ll see how much it does matter. ESTRELLA SOAP COMPANY Seattle, Washington Think of Seattle, and what’s the first food or drink that comes to mind? Any caffeine addict can tell you the answer to that one! So it’s not surprising that Estrella Soap Company (www.estrellasoap.com) makes a wonderful coffee body scrub. Just like choosing your coffee, you can choose your coffee scrub “pure” or fancied up, as they have three varieties: original, peppermint, and vanilla. Peppermint adds a refreshing note to the dusky coffee blend, while vanilla is extra spicy and aromatic. My favorite, though, is the original, where the coffee (organic and fair trade) is supplemented by organic sugar to make a perfectly exfoliating mix, while jojoba and coconut oils soothe your skin even while it’s being scrubbed. For those who prefer tea, Earl Grey sugar scrubs are just the ticket (Earl Grey is also used in hair and body oils, soap, and body butter). You might also try their lip balms flavored with essential oils, from Ginger/Orange or Lime to Pink Lemonade

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travelinggourmet or (my personal favorite) Root Beer, or their Grapefruit/Vanilla or Citrus/Lemongrass bath fizzies. Each comes in jars of eight beautifullydesigned little discs that you toss into your bath to dissolve into a skin-healing soak. BEEKMAN’S COPA SOAPS Philadelphia, Pennsylvania I remember years ago buying some of the coldpressed soaps from Beekman’s COPA Soaps (Tel: 800-315-5690. www.copasoaps.com) at a street fair in the Philadelphia area, and I’ve been hooked ever since. My new favorite is the Ginger Carrot, which uses carrot juice and ginger juice, plus orange and cinnamon oils, in addition to the “big four” oils: coconut, olive, palm, and olive. (Clever readers will notice that the initials of these four oils, the stars of their soaps, form the word “COPA”!) The result is a slightly orange-tinged bar with a sweet/spicy scent that feels like pure indulgence when you coat your face in it. If you’re like me, you’ll choose their “spicy collection,” where you can select six soaps that include the Carrot/Ginger and might also contain Basil, Cider, Honey Oatmeal, Saffron, and Spice. The Oatmeal soaps, flecked with brown speckles, have a great exfoliating quality (in addition to honey, you can get plain or lavender-scented), while the Avocado adds the oil of this fruit along with rosemary, marjoram, and lavender oils for a refreshing and relaxing herbal sensation. Check their website to see if they’re resuming their street fair appearances, or order online to receive these substantial bars, subtly scented and oh-so-healthy. KIND SOAP COMPANY Webster Groves, Missouri The winning milk and honey oatmeal bath from Kind Soap Company (20 Allen Ave., Webster Groves, MO. Tel: 314-942-2024. www.kindsoap.com) is like breakfast in a bathtub: open this luscious powder (it even comes in a jar that looks like an old-fashioned milk bot-

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tle) and the aromas of honey, oats, and milk drift out. Pour ½ cup into your bath, and you can almost feel your skin moistening as you soak. With the oats ground fine and the milk and honey powdered, it’s the perfect texture to soothe dry skin, and baking soda completes the skincare “breakfast”! I also love their Goat’s Milk toner and cleansing milk, Blackcurrant soap (enhanced with ground vanilla bean powder), and Pumpkin facial peel, which features not only the eponymous fruit but all kinds of chef-worthy ingredients: extracts of sugar cane, orange peel, lemon peel, cranberry, and rosemary, along with powdered ginger, allspice, nutmeg, and cinnamon. For my bacon-loving friend Lucy: Beer/Bacon Fat soap and lip balm made in cooperation with The Block Butcher Shop and Restaurant across the street. If you’re in the St. Louis area, stop into their store in the suburb of Webster Groves or a local boutique (you can always order more online). Donations from each purchase go to Autism Speaks, and reinforces their mission statement to: “Be KIND to your skin, KIND to the earth, and KIND to each other.” That’s a pretty hefty trio, and one well worth supporting. It helps that their stuff is amazing!

THE BODY DELI Palm Desert, California It was actually the Coachella honey date scrub from The Body Deli (73-560 El Paseo, Palm Desert, CA. Tel: 760-836-9106. www.thebodydeli.com) that got me thinking about this column, and isn’t the company’s name what this column is all about? Made with medjool dates grown nearby in Coachella Valley, this fabulous scrub also contains brown sugar, date sugar, and a wide range of extracts, oils, and spices, so you might sense the ginger, cardamom, or cinnamon upfront, followed by thyme or rosemary. It’s the perfect combination of exfoliating and soothing, with the antioxidant qualities of the dates giving it an added benefit. It’s my favorite of the scrubs, though you can’t go wrong with Chocolate Truffle, Citron/Vanilla, or Moroccan Mint. Almond Milk cleanser is rich and nourishing, with almond oil, sprouted barley protein, oat flour and a variety of herbs, while Sprouted Mineral Greens Shampoo will indulge your hair with juices of wheatgrass, oat grass, kale, spinach, and much more. Stop in their store on tony El Paseo in the Heart of Palm Desert, buy it in about a million places in

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travelinggourmet the Palm Springs/Palm Desert area, or shop online. The variety of offerings is staggering, but just be sure to include that date scrub! SACHER BOUTIQUE SPA Vienna, Austria When a spa is located in the hotel that brought the one and only Sachertorte to the world, it’s only to be expected that some of the treatments will involve chocolate. In fact, the “Time to Chocolate” line at the Sacher Hotel’s Boutique Spa (Philharmonikerstrasse 4, Vienna, Austria. Tel: +43-1-51-456-1352. www.sacher.com) uses the same cocoa beans used to glaze the renowned torte, and trust me, it’s perfect not only for dessert but on your skin! It’s a must-do experience, whether you get a simple Taste of Chocolate (a “dessert duo” consisting of a deep cleansing massage and chocolate body mask) or indulge in a Symphony of Chocolate (with chocolate wrap, massage, and body mask). Be sure to stop on your way out to pick up a quartet of chocolate sensations that contains a shampoo/shower gel in addition to the body care products, all packaged beautifully, Sacher-style, for the perfect gift (if only to yourself). While you can get this gift package by contacting the spa (sacherspa@sacher.com), I really suggest you head there once Austria opens back up to American visitors, and try the complete experience before bringing home some sinfully rich amazements that will keep your skin as silky smooth as…well, as chocolate. Just keep telling yourself: “I deserve it.”

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SPINSTER SISTERS CO. Golden, Colorado I’m a dedicated gardener, and I know how dirty your hands can get when you’re out tending your crops. Luckily, Spinster Sisters Co. (1116 Washington Ave., Golden CO. Tel: 844-7746783. www.spinstersistersco.com) has come to the rescue with Gardener’s Citrus Scrub soaps, both solid and liquid. Each contain olive and coconut oils, and scents derived from lemon, lime, grapefruit, and orange. The bar soap has the added scrubbing power of oatmeal (and a gorgeous swirly design). Proprietor Kelly Perkins notes, “Most of what we use can be found in your kitchen cupboard,” and even if you aren’t a gardener (or drinker), you’ll love the Raspberry Wit scrub, made with its eponymous beer from

Terrain Brewing Company, or body butters like Rosemary/Mint, Lemongrass/Sage, or Pomegranate/ Lime. Another unique product: the “Muscle Rub,” which uses cayenne and habanero peppers, along with oils of ginger, marjoram, rosemary, and sage. Stop in their storefront in Golden, a lovely town just outside Denver, or check their website for other locations (or online purchases). Perkins sums up perfectly the appeal of using food products for skin care: “I don’t like to look at a label and have to go to Google to see what it is. That makes me think it’s not something I want to put on my body. I want to be able to say, olive oil, I know what that is!” Could she describe any more succinctly what’s so great about the Sisters, and, in fact, why I wrote this column to start with?

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Guitar Hotel, Seminole Hard Rock Hotel & Casino, Hollywood, Florida

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businessprofile HARD ROCK INTERNATIONAL LOVING AND SERVING ALL SINCE 1971 by Jeff Heilman n February 1970, just before my fifth birthday, we relocated from Los Angeles to London for my father’s career. One adjustment we had to make was getting used to the famously bad cuisine, Wimpy hamburgers included. Dating to 1934, the Chicago-based company had expanded to the United Kingdom in 1954. Lost in translation, though, was the product, a mealy abomination that affirmed the popular joke that “the chefs in hell are British.” Succulent salvation came soon after our arrival, from Chicago no less. Then 22, Peter Morton, of the Morton’s Steakhouse family, opened a hamburger restaurant called the Great American Disaster. Minutes from our flat, the Chelsea location was our instant go-to. I have great memories of the food and of the rocking vibe. The place was a hit with Londoners and even inspired an imitator, the Great British Success. Then Morton met Tennessee native Isaac Tigrett, and the entrepreneurial expats began formulating plans for an adapted hamburger concept aimed at disrupting the prevailing snobbery of the time. In Britain, they observed, there was “no place where a banker and a baker could commune.” Purposefully choosing London’s ritziest neighborhood, Mayfair, for the location, they created a brash Americanafilled “Tennessee truck stop” in a former Rolls Royce showroom across the way from Buckingham Palace. Opened in June 1971, their Hard Rock Café and governing motto of “Love All-Serve All” struck a power chord that resonates to this day. We were regulars there too, along with locals, tourists, and celebrities, including The Beatles. After waiting out the line to get in, it was like having a front-row seat at a rock concert with a backstage pass. The venue was loud, boisterous, and the music memorabilia on the walls, including guitars from Eric Clapton and Pete Townshend, stirred my imagination to no end. Tigrett, an avowed “groupie,” courted his industry connections to build the brand-signifying collection, which now exceeds 83,000 A-list acquisitions displayed at locations around the world.

Dale Hipsh, SVP of Hotels, Hard Rock International

The rock and roll powered Hard Rock’s class-conscious mission was “not exploiting culture but earning the right to represent it.” As revenues skyrocketed, their highdecibel hamburger haven soon evolved from a restaurant into “a cultural phenomenon based on music.” The partners eventually went their separate ways, with Tigrett later founding House of Blues. Their visionary brand, meanwhile, has since evolved into an unstoppable force. Acquired by the Seminole Tribe of Florida in 2007, Hard Rock International (Hard Rock) today encompasses owned, managed, and licensed hotels, casinos, rock shops, and cafes in 76 countries spanning some 256 locations around the globe. Celebrating its 50th anniversary in June 2021, Hard Rock serves more than 120 million customers each year and enjoys enviable global recognition. Surveying eight key markets around the globe in a 2018 commissioned study, leading consultancy Egg Strategy found that 82 percent of the world “knows and thinks favorably of Hard Rock.” The brand was also ranked number one in J.D. Power’s 2019 North America Hotel Guest Satisfaction Study in the upscale hotel category, which measured 85 different hospitality brands for guest satisfaction, advocacy, and loyalty.

ale Hipsh, Senior Vice President of Hotels, is emblematic of the proud and impassioned leaders behind Hard Rock’s enduring appeal. “My early Hard Rock touch points were also as an expat traveling overseas,” shared Hipsh, who grew up in the Florida Panhandle. “The Americana, cheeseburgers, and rock and roll were wonderful.” Following two decades of operational and management experience at hospitality leaders including Hyatt Hotels and Ritz-Carlton, Hipsh joined Hard Rock in 2002 as vice president of operations. In that role, he was part of the elite opening team for Seminole Gaming’s Hard Rock Hotel & Casino flagships in Tampa and Hollywood, Florida. The opportunity came through his professional and personal bond with Hard Rock International Chairman James “Jim” Allen, with whom Hipsh had opened the massive Atlantis Resort & Casino in the Bahamas in the mid-90’s. Allen, who also serves as CEO of Seminole Gaming, was the driving force behind the tribe’s remarkable winning bid for Hard Rock over some 72 competitors. “Jim graciously let me play with the band, and the rest is history,” said Hipsh, who would later open a dozen Hard Rock properties from conceptualization to completion around the world as vice president of hotel

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businessprofile & casino operations development. Promoted to his current position in 2017, he circles the globe in support of Hard Rock’s continuing expansion. or a lifelong student of history and cultural origins who grew up on James Michener novels, the role gets Hipsh’s own purposeful heart pumping. “Along with the set pieces, we create a localized identity for each project,” said Hipsh, whose recent engagements include new Hard Rock hotels in Malaysia’s Desaru Coast; Shenzhen, China; and Ibiza, Spain. “Understanding the musical tastes, cultural taboos, ceremonial traditions, and other standards in each given market, and then figuring out how to curate these elements for local fit and customer appreciation is a fantastic part of my job.” But the process can be complicated. “Each culture, community, and consumer comes with unique wants, needs, and expectations of Hard Rock,” continued Hipsh. “Many Chinese, for example, believe that music history began with Michael Jackson. They may not know of The Doors, The Grateful Dead, or other bands that predate the Cultural Revolution. Governing culture makes Malaysia a necessarily more cautious undertaking than Spain, where we are also opening in Madrid. But Hard Rock was never a one-hit wonder, and I love the brand’s courageous commitment to continually learn, evolve and grow.” He is equally proud of how Hard Rock has “broadened and in some instances deepened” its original social purpose in the spirit of “Love All-Serve All” and the other founding mottos of “All Is One”, “Take Time To Be Kind” and “Save The Planet”. Primary vehicles for “making the world a better place through music” include The Hard Rock Heals Foundation, a unified philanthropic platform that channels financial contributions, strategic partnerships, and in-kind and employee support. Local, national, and international focal areas include wellness, social conditions, disaster relief, and environmental sustainability. Specific causes include autism awareness, human trafficking prevention, hunger relief, and restoring peace in war-ravaged locales. Complementing and amplifying this brand pillar is the like-minded ethos of the 4,200-strong Seminole Tribe, which launched the first Native American casino in 1979 on the values of “integrity, respect,

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and accountability.” Signature programs include Women in Leadership. Aligned with the matrilineal culture of the Seminoles, who elected Betty Mae Jumper as the first female Chair of a North American tribe in 1967, the initiative supports the rise of women to senior management positions. Forbes recognized Hard Rock International as one of America’s Best Employers for Women these past two years, and one of America's Best Employers for Diversity this year. “All Is One” naturally embraces the LGBTQ+ community. Signature collaborations include Hard Rock’s global partnership, since 2013, with the Mercury Phoenix Trust, the UK-based charity created in Freddie Mercury’s memory by Queen bandmates Brian May and Roger Taylor and manager Jim Beach to support the global fight against HIV/AIDS. or Hipsh, who is devoted to action on behalf of the LGBTQ+ community, Hard Rock’s culture has been a revelation from day one. “As a teenager, I pledged to become a man of integrity. I wanted to be known for doing good. Yet, I encountered many glass ceilings on my way up professionally.” Not so at Hard Rock. “Jim Allen and the Seminole tribal leaders share a deep sense of loyalty and commitment to people that is infused throughout the organization,” he said. “And from my participation in GLAAD fundraisers to advocacy for the Fort Lauderdale LGBTQ+ community at large, that includes their blessing of my outside efforts.” His influence includes serving on the Board of Trustees for the Orlando-based onePulse Foundation, established by Pulse Nightclub owner Barbara Poma following the June 2016 shooting tragedy. “With its strong entertainment and hospitality base, Orlando was already a major pivot point for partnerships and giving,” said Hipsh, who lived just blocks from Pulse and was awakened by police helicopters responding to the scene. “That connection only deepened as the entire community came together and showed the world the truly special and inclusive character of the city. Personally, I had never felt so loved and accepted, including the honor of being invited to join the august leaders of the onePulse board.” His participation includes serving on the

committee for the design and construction of the National Pulse Memorial & Museum in Orlando, which is projected to open in 2022. “Basing their approach on other national tragedies, Barbara and her advisory council resolved to create a deeply meaningful tribute with lasting impact,” explained Hipsh, who brings his expertise in building hotels to the project. “The widespread embrace of this vision, which includes legacy scholarships and educational programs, is way beyond our expectations.”

xceeding the norm, too, is the support from Hard Rock. “At my level, you don’t just represent another entity without the express permission of your own organization. Hard Rock’s backing of my efforts and the community is bold and touching beyond words. And that includes the remarkable philanthropy flowing out of our new corporate home in South Florida, where the Seminole Hard Rock Hotel & Casino in Hollywood is center stage for wide-ranging community events.” Featuring the world’s first guitar-shaped hotel tower, the property presents annual celebrations such as the Diversity Honors gala benefiting the Harvey Milk Foundation and The Pride Center at Equality Park of South Florida, and holiday concert by the renowned Gay Men’s Chorus of South Florida. This February, the venue hosted a celebrity runway fashion show to kick off Pride Fort Lauderdale. Festivities are also planned for the inaugural Pride of the Americas festival, which was postponed because of COVID-19. Last year, the Hard Rock Hotel & Casino Atlantic City, which was named the “2019 Casino of the Year” at the company’s annual Hotel & Casino Awards, was a participating sponsor in the June 2019 Philly Pride Parade and Festival. “It’s important for our property to take a leadership role and celebrate diversity with the city of Philadelphia alongside our fantastic team members,” stated Joe Lupo, president of the destination resort. More than 50 employees accompanied the property’s float, including a gay couple who got engaged at the parade. “I believe that you end up where you belong, and that being a good person has gifted me with this role,” said Hipsh. “I am thrilled by who we are, what we do, and why we do it. When you live by mantras like “Love All-Serve All” and All Is One”, only good can follow.”

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Robert Plant

Hard Rock founders Peter Morton and Isaac Tigrett

Paul McCartney and Ringo Starr

Diana Ross

Jeff Beck and Rod Stewart

Hard Rock Cafe London

Original Hard Rock Cafe waitress Rita Gilligan MBE, with Rolling Stones guitarist Ron Wood

Tony Bennett Andy Warhol, Annie Lennox, Tommy Shaw, Frank Zappa, Paul Stanley

Photos: Hard Rock International

Yoko Ono, Julian Lennon, Sean Lennon, Cynthia Lennon

Elton John

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specialeffects holidaygift guide

ANGELUS COCKTAIL WATCH

Swiss watchmaker, Angelus, has released a series of stunning new timepieces in their Cocktail Collection. The watches are all designed after classic cocktails, like a Manhattan, Cosmopolitan, Sidecar, and more. The timepieces come in stunningly vivid colors and are crafted from ultra-light, super-strong, scratch-resistant titanium and steel. At $46,700, think of this as the gift that keeps on giving! www.AngelusWatches.com

HILLIARDS CHOCOLATES Hilliards is a family-owned chocolatier and candy company based in Massachusetts. It dates back to 1924 and has been making the world sweeter ever since. These days, their most popular confections include decadent truffles, homemade nut barks, and their new boozy assortment of craft beer-infused chocolate delights. What could be better for the holidays? Starting at $7.50. www.HilliardsCandy.com

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holidaygift guide DESTINATION CANDLES

The woman-owned Scripted Fragrance has launched a deliciously exciting candle collection inspired by locations around America. The Florida Keys candle mixes tropical scents of citrus, coconut, and rum. The Oregon candle displays the Cascade forests with scents of balsam firs. And the New York City Holiday candle creates a spirited aroma of pine and holly berry—you’ll feel like you’re at Rockefeller for the tree lighting! Candle choices span from every state to major cities and holiday destinations. $24. www.ScriptedFragrance.com

RECYCLED PHONE CASE

Who wouldn’t want a phone case that’s been drop tested to 6 feet, has permanent antimicrobial protection, is scratch resistant, and wont yellow? Who wouldn’t want a case that’s all that and eco-friendly? Nimble’s recycled phone case is actually made entirely from old CDs! And you thought you’d never see that Backstreet Boys CD ever again… $39.95. www.GoNimble.com

BOYFACE GIFT COLLECTION

Club legend Crystal Waters launched her men’s skincare line to rave reviews (often selling out within days) and makes them using quality ingredients like vitamin C and Shea butter. The gift set comes with a daily face cleanser, face moisturizer, brightening serum, and eye cream. It’s the perfect way to cleanse and rehydrate your skin after a long day. $99. www.BoyFaceMe.com

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holidaygift guide COFFEE FOR A BETTER WORLD

The acclaimed nonprofit Arbor Day Foundation now sells coffee! Better yet, their beans are shade grown, which provides a better, richer flavor (and saves water). Growing the beans underneath the canopy of the rainforest, rather than cutting trees down for farmland, also ensures that entire ecosystems are preserved, saving countless plants and animals. For lovers of dark roasts, there’s the Italian Roast, but the customer favorite is the Arbor Day Blend, a medium roast with notes of dark chocolate and citrus (decaf is also available). $12.99. www.Shop.Arborday.org

4 IN 1 TRAVEL ADAPTER

Travel emporium Flight 001 has yet again created a travel device that will change every globetrotter’s life. The 4 in 1 adapter is easily color-coded, allowing you to plug in your device to a variety of sockets around the world. Best of all, each plug can be placed together like a puzzle, forming a convenient little cube that’s easy to fit in even the smallest of carry-ons. $25. www.Flight001.com

SOLAR CHARGER

Outdoor adventure company Revel has launched a new solar charger that’s perfect for recharging your phone, MP3 player, portable speakers, headlamps, and more. Set it under your windshield while on a road trip, strap it to your backpack while you hike, or lay it down next to you while sitting in the park. It’s free, effortless energy! Better yet, it also has a panel of highpowered LED lights, perfect if the power ever goes out. Each purchase also helps Revel’s mission of bringing electricity to impoverished communities around the world. $49.99. www.RevelGear.com

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holidaygift guide ELECTRIC MUSTANG

Ford is entering the lucrative market of electric cars with their new Mustang Mach-E. The crossover SUV can get 300 miles to a charge and can go 0-60 in just three seconds. It's all the power of the mustang without any of the emissions. Better yet, the Mach-E is equipped with a touchscreen dashboard, available all-wheel drive, and because there's no engine hogging up space, the car's front end is an extra storage area. Starting at $42,895. www.ford.com

DIGITAL IMAGE COPIER

If you are looking for a device that will make digital copies of your old slides and negatives, this converter from Hammacher Schlemmer is the perfect gift to keep family memories alive for generations to come. It allows you to quickly convert old slides and negatives into digital images and JPEG files that can then be transferred and saved to your computer. $189.95. www.Hammacher.com

NEW ENGLAND TRACK JACKET

Tracksmith, the New England sportswear outfitter, has released their newest track jacket thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s both sporty and durable. Tracksmith uses their high-grade Veloce fabric to create the jacket, allowing the piece to retain heat and be breathable, all while being stylish and comfortable. $118. www.Tracksmith.com

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passportprofile CONDUCTING WITH DIGNITY

DR. TIM SEELIG

Photo: Dave Earl

by Lawrence Ferber

Tim Seelig Conducting

r. Tim Seelig uses a baton, not a wand, to create magic. The Artistic Director and Conductor of the 42-year-old, trailblazing San Francisco Gay Men’s Chorus (www.sfgmc.org), Seelig has brought joy, comfort, healing, catharsis, and impeccable arrangements to the group and its audiences since accepting the position in 2011. Last year’s inspiring, moving documentary, Gay Chorus Deep South ( w w w. g a y c h o r u s d e e p s o u t h . c o m ) , chronicled the Texas-born Seelig and the SFGMC’s concert tour of southern states in response to a wave of anti-LGBTQ legislation in the region, like NC’s inafmous HB2 “bathroom bill.” Raised in a Southern Baptist family and closeted until his 30s, Seelig, who previously worked with Dallas’ LGBTQ+ Turtle Creek Chorale (www.turtlecreekchorale.com) for 20 years, boasts an incredible resume and bio. Packed with

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highs (he carried the Olympic torch in 1996, met Queen Elizabeth II in 1992, was friends with Maya Angelou, and conducted at Carnegie Hall and Lincoln Center dozens of times), and the ocassional low (in 2013, he and his partner at the time, Dan England, were denied a time share vacation because they were gay). Seelig’s more recent developments include the renovation of the SFGMC’s Mission District art deco building, which was puchased in 2019, and celebrating the second year of his relationship with singer-songwriter Bobby Jo Valentine. “His name sounds like a country star,” Seelig notes. Seelig opened up to Passport about his career and life, from married-with-twochildren and being an aspiring Southern Baptist opera singer living in Salzburg, Austria, to serving as an associate minister of music at the First Baptist Church of Houston, to coming out and working with LGBTQ choruses.

You moved to Salzburg, Austria at age 24 with a wife and two kids to pursue a career as an opera singer. How did that come about, and how did living there affect you and your development as a person, especially someone from a sheltered, religious and presumably homophobic culture? That’s a great question. I was hellbent when I entered college on becoming an opera singer. I have no idea why, when I was from Fort Worth Texas, but somehow it stuck in my head. As a teenager I had been to Europe and saw a school named after Mozart in Salzburg, (Mozarteum), and decided I would go there. I’m a driven, goal-oriented person, and when I was 24 I attended for 2 years. Then later I got the fulltime opera singing job. I was thrilled. It was magic, singing on the set of the Sound of Music, and I think probably being that far away from home in countries that speak a different language affected me really deeply. You get

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How did your life, marriage, and spirituality change after that? I threw the baby out with the bathwater for sure, when I came out at 35 and lost pretty much everything. I was done with organized religion. Getting into the LGBTQ community was really comfortable, because nobody was forcing you to go to church or be a part of organized religion. When I started conducting a gay men’s chorus, I realized that void of spirituality was huge, so finding music that spoke to that has been the focus of my last 33 years. Personally, I’m a lover of the human experience, and I’m definitely agnostic leaning towards atheist. During the Gay Chorus Deep South tour I did go back to the Southern Baptist church in Greenville, SC. The chorus did a big concert there, and it was amazing and something I thought would never happen. The end of the film was like a reconciliation. How was the reality of going to the south with the SFGMC different from how you imagined it would be beforehand? Oh my goodness. I straddled both of those worlds. I was in Texas until the age of 60, and then I moved to California and the difference in being there and here is remarkable. I live in the bubble of San Francisco and love the bubble, and then going back to something so ingrained in me…It was fine. The folks out here who had never been to the south or even Northern California were literally scared. Our board approved quite a large security budget, and then two weeks before we left, Charlottesville happened and they doubled the budget. So many people thought that’s what we would walk into. A KKK rally. The trip was planned really well, we had police escorts and assistance from local and state law enforcement, so I wasn’t frightened. My perception was we would get more pushback than we did, and the overall reaction of our chorus is well documented in the film in that we found these southern people to be courageous. Many have chosen to stay there and lead the fight. Here we are in SF, life’s pretty good and we say we’re activists and we are, but nothing like the

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trans woman in Jackson, Mississippi, or the small AIDS office in Charlotte, NC and the things those people go through every day! They turned out being our heroes for sure, and they’re fighting the good fight. Did anything get cut out of the film that you wish had been included? Of course. They had 300 hours of film. There’s one really funny number that I loved, it’s a song called “Color Out of Colorado,” and goes through all the states. “You can’t take the sissy out of Mississippi, you can’t take the KY out of Kentucky.” It’s very funny. They also chose not to show some of the other things that happened, like when we got to the first Baptist Church of Greenville, SC. We did our soundcheck in the big sanctuary and they said, ‘we’re going to cut this a little short and let’s go to the Fellowship Hall and get you something to eat.’ I thought that was strange because I wasn’t finished rehearsing, and it turns out they had a bomb threat and the local police came and swept the sanctuary. There wasn’t a bomb, it was a hoax, but we didn’t know that. We didn’t even know why we were kicked out until they said it was all clear. This wasn’t the first time you’ve been in a documentary. You were also featured prominently in the 1994 Emmy-winning After Goodbye: An AIDS Story, in which the Turtle Creek Chorale copes with losing over 90 members to HIV and AIDS. That was difficult. I was a baby, and they filmed for 18 months in a lot of hospitals as people were dying and at memorial services.

we lose a lot of them. They’ve watched Tales of the City and think Miss Madrigal is here to take them in. She’s gone! Of course, there’s still so much good stuff about San Francisco and Oakland. What are some of your favorite things? Well, Oakland also has a gay chorus! I’m very lucky and own a condo just south of the city and love it. I’m sitting here in my condo and have a sliver of the view of the bay and it’s beautiful. I say to people, I see something beautiful every day. That was not the case in Dallas. It’s really the view from everywhere that I love. The hills. And spots to eat? There’s a place that’s hard to find called The Dark Horse Inn (www.darkhorsesf.com), and they smoke their meats and it is a dive and amazing. They make a kimchi reuben sandwich. Oh my god! We’re surrounded by incredible food. I read lists of the 30 Best Restaurants of the year and keep those to try when I can. There are great eateries in the Castro, one is Fable (www.fablesf.com). It’s spectacular. There’s a beautiful patio out back. How about bars? My go-to is Twin Peaks Tavern (www.twinpeakstavern.com) at the corner of Castro and Market. It’s fascinating. It’s the hub. Gay bars used to paint over the windows so peoBobby Jo Valentine & Tim Seelig

You moved to San Francisco in 2011 after joining the SFGMC. What’s your impression of the famously changing face of the city? Yeah, oh boy. The separation of haves and have nots, the rich and poor, is happening all over the country, and SF is a textbook case of where the country is going unless we stop it. We have the rich rich and an incredible homeless problem. People can’t afford to live. The hardest part for me is young kids move here, wanting to live in a gay Mecca and sing in the gay chorus, they join it and make minimum wage at Starbucks, and they can’t make it. They get four roommates in a two bedroom apartment and try really hard and then the disappointment hits and

Photo: David Sachs

away from that nest, from the Southern Baptist Church, and seeing these people drink beer and have sex before marriage was eyeopening and wonderful. It broadened my world inside. I was ready to come home, and I realized that wasn’t the career for me.

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What are some places you’ve visited that had the biggest effect on you? Life changing experiences, as they say. I have a very strong affinity towards Hawaii. It’s been a very spiritual place for me and my family, it’s where I go to rejuvenate and remember. There’s a Buddhist cemetary on the north shore of Oahu, and it’s not to be missed. It’s a beautiful spiritual place. I went with friends and my family during the AIDS crisis. It has a beautiful gong, looking over the north shore, and it's completely quiet except for the gong. The instructions are: ring the bell and say a name and their spirit will reverberate throughout the world. When I got to San Francisco, there’s the National AIDS Memorial Grove in the middle of Golden Gate Park. Nancy Pelosi, god bless her for making this happen, and I started this thing where the SF Gay Men’s Chorus will build its own memorial within the garden and I wanted to have an aural component like the Buddhist temple. Everyone said, ‘no way, they’re not going to let you put sound in this beautiful, quiet garden.’ When I set my mind to something, it’s very hard to dissuade me, and I thought I can take on parks and rec! As it turns out, a year ago, we dedicated our artist’s portal at the National AIDS Memorial Grove and it has an 8-foot emperor chime and it says, ‘say a name, ring the bell, the vibrations will go through the world.’ It’s there! It happened! So I get to have a mini version of a place I love right here in Golden Gate Park. Let’s talk for a moment about your 2013 experience with a company called Best Vacations Ever. After extending a trip offer, an employee told you that samesex couples weren’t permitted to take advantage of their Las Vegas time share vacation. Clearly not the best vacation ever. In the end, they offered you comped accommodations? They did. We really went to the top on

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Photo: Steven Underhill

ple inside couldn’t be seen by the police or fired from their jobs, and I believe Twin Peaks was the first gay bar to say, ‘screw that’ and take the boards or black paint off the windows. It’s like floor-to-ceiling windows and it’s the best people watching ever. It does have an older clientele, so it’s comfortable for me to go. The second would be 440 Castro (www.the440.com). It’s also on Castro and great fun and a mixed crowd.

Holiday Concert

that one and after not very long, 2 to 3 weeks when it blew up, they changed their website and added a diversity statement. They were horrified, and the word got out quickly that they wouldn’t let us tour a time share as a gay couple, and that wasn’t acceptable. That was one of those ‘is it really worth it?’ situations and we decided, yes, it’s worth it and it actually made a bit of a difference. Where in the world would you most love for the SFGMC to perform? There are a few dream locations where I would love to have the chorus perform. Some are the great concert halls of the world, some are not. We have sung in most of the great halls in the U.S. already. This summer we will perform in Minneapolis' Orchestra Hall. While singing outdoors is not the most "forgiving" venue for a chorus due to amplification, I would love to sing at the Central Park SummerStage. My next outdoor choice would be the bandshell in Honolulu, mostly because I would get a free trip. Other than those, I dream of hearing the chorus, and conducting, at some of the greatest acoustic phenomenons of the world: the Philharmonie de Paris, France, the Opera City Concert Hall, Tokyo, and Concertgebouw, Amsterdam.” What other gay choruses across the country do you feel people should check out, especially for virtual and streaming performances?

There are 180+ LGBTQ choruses in our GALA Choruses network. We are in almost every city in the U.S. Some of the choruses have opted to not dive into the pool of creating virtual content. Many, like SFGMC, dove into the deep end. My suggestion would be to do a little research and look up "gay or lesbian chorus near me" in your search engine, and go to their website and make a donation! It's a difficult time for choruses everywhere. It's also going to be a challenge ramping back up. When we can travel again, of course your first stop should be San Francisco. Come hear us sing. That said, it would be a great adventure to travel to hear LGBTQ choruses around the country, or world! And what can you share about the SFGMC’s 2021 season? SFGMC has just announced its 43rd season. It will be all virtual. Of course, we are continuing our weekly content on SFGMC TV. In addition, we are creating four big showcases. Each will feature world premieres, new music, guest artists and some fabulous archival footage of the chorus. For our fall showcase, we welcome a world premiere composed by Broadway composer Andrew Lippa, and soloist Kristin Chenoweth. We are also giving our Vanguard Award to Chasten Buttigieg. It will be presented by his husband, Pete! Then our holiday showcase, a cabaret in the spring, and a Pride Extravaganza.

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worldeats BARCELONA, SPAIN by Arthur Wooten he first time I visited, I instantly fell in love with Spain. I fell in love with her history, architecture, passion for life, and in particular, with her food. Recently, I made a return visit to experience Barcelona, the city some call the gastronomic capital of Spain. While I was there, I explored the city every day and had the opportunity to dine at a variety of places in this beautiful and inspiring destination. Here are five fantastic restaurants that I highly recommend, and look forward to dining at again soon.

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Restaurants at Placa Reial in Barcelona

lardo. This dish is so gorgeous to look at you’ll hesitate to dig in, but don’t. The sous vide technique which, vacuum packs a marinade with herbs and spices, instantly renders the pork buttery smooth and flavorful. It will melt in your mouth. You’ll also love their Corvina sashimi, thinly sliced raw corvina with cucumber, red onion, ginger, daikon radish, seaweed emulsion and nam pla dressing. This is impeccable cooking that marries

Iberian Pork Cheek at Brugarol

Catalan cuisine with Japanese esthetic. Brugarol’s ambience is worth mentioning too. It’s Zen, minimalistic, and sexy. Great care was taken when decisions were made regarding décor and its relationship to the food Chef Scirocco creates. Carrer Salomó Ben Adret, 10. Tel: +34-933-158995. www.brugarolbarcelona.com VIANA A few steps from the beautiful Placa Reial is Viana. Opened in 2015 by brothers Rubén y Miguel Bermúdez along with Carlos García and Chef Solomon Tabisaura, this intimate establishment offers some of the most exciting and delicious culinary creations in Barcelona. Viana may be small in size but it’s gigantic in flavor, and it is inexpensive for the food they offer. Maybe start off with one of their classic and delicious sangrias? Or possibly indulge in one of their signature cocktails like the Blackberry Mojito: blackberry vodka, lime and mint with soda. So refreshing! Whether on a date night, or dining solo, you’ll discover the staff are very

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Photo: Brugarol Barcelona

BRUGAROL Almost hidden within the ancient and charming alleyways of the Gothic Quarter is Brugarol, a tapas bar that explores traditional tapas but adds a twist of Asian flair. Offering only 21 seats in an intimate and beautiful space, this is farm-to-table cuisine at its finest. Brugarol sources all of their ingredients locally from their Costa Brava farm less than 75 miles away. Even their wines and olive oil are locally sourced and are ecologically sound. I recently asked owner and chef, Angelo Scirocco, what are Brugarol’s most popular dishes? “Probably the most famous dish is the Laquered Quail with smoked lentil puree, warm beluga lentil and morel mushroom salad. Also, The Brugarol Egg, a savory white truffle flan, which is cooked in its egg shell as well. It’s to honor our eggs from our own farm. We produce a new JapoTapas cuisine that feels more traditional than new.” Because there are so many fantastic dishes to try, I highly recommend their 7 tapas tasting menu. Surrender to the chef’s choices and enjoy. On an a la carte basis, I recommend the Iberian Pork Cheek & Cauliflower, sous vide pork cheek in bay leaf with cauliflower puree, brown sage butter & Iberian pork

Photo: Lakov Filimonov

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Photo: Viana

Codfish in Blood Orange Sauce, Apple, Spinach and Yuca Chips at Viana

Photo: Louro

Lobster with Creamy Rice from Louro

friendly, no attitude or pretension. You might want to try their small plate of gorgeous burrata cheese with Sorrento tomatoes, guacamole, and nuts with a dried fruit vinaigrette. But save room for the prawns and veggies roll with sweet chili sauce, which I’m warning you, are addictive. More exceptional main dishes are the slow cooked beef cheeks with sweet potato and cinnamon purée. The cheeks are luscious. And make sure you try their Iberian pork carpaccio with provolone shavings. A work of art on your plate, but yes, you can eat it. The ham and pork products served here are of Spanish origin and produced exclusively from rare Iberian pigs, which are descendants of the wild boar. They are the last European free-range pig

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breed and they are allowed to eat chestnuts and graze on open pastures. Hence, the result is an amazing sweet but earthy taste due to the chestnuts. That’s what makes this ham so special and unique to Spain. Because of its cozy size and popularity, I highly recommend that you make reservations for dining at Viana. Carrer del Vidre, 7. Tel: 93-463-8295. www.vianabcn.com LOURO Located on the west side of La Rambla, and just around the corner from the Güell Palace, Louro serves traditional Galician cuisine. The monochromatic butter yellow tones of the interior of the restaurant are a welcome calmness from the hectic tourism right outside its

door. And there are several rooms with tables placed spaciously so no one feels cramped or crowded. Speaking with proprietor Rubén Bermudez he shared with me some of their patron’s favorite items on their menu. “Some of our most known dishes are the lobster rice, the toast of smoked sardine with Cebreriro cheese and tomato and onion compote and the baby scallops with parmentier (potatoes) and pork jowls.” Personally, I love the Galician Bay mussels with yellow curry and bay leaf oil. The mussels are so fresh and plump and are laced delicately with the curry and bay leaf. They explode when bitten into creating a Mediterranean dance in your mouth. Looking over at the couple dining next to me, I fear I was drooling watching them devour the suckling pig cooked at low temperature with chestnut cream and apple purée. They were also enjoying the creamy mushroom risotto with ‘tetilla’ (a soft buttery cheese.) Noticing my staring, one of them smiled and gave me a thumbs up saying, “It’s the best risotto I’ve ever eaten.” And his companion said, “I could eat here every night of my life.” How’s that for a recommendation? My dining partner had the scallops and I was lucky enough to savor a bite, which truly was spectacular. As I’m known to do, I held off from ordering an additional serving. But next time I visit Louro, I’m ordering the scallops with parmentier and pork jowls...twice! Rambla del Caputxins 37. Tel: +34-93730-8280. www.lourocgb.com LA FONDA A couple of blocks east from the famous pedestrian walkway La Rambla, is La Fonda. It is the first restaurant of the Grupo Andilana franchise. A great choice, especially for lunch, this restaurant is an old standby and loved by locals as well as tourists. Open and airy, the décor is beautiful. They have an extensive menu offering everything you’d expect from an upscale Mediterranean restaurant, but they are famous for their “rice” dishes. The seafood paellas are tried and true classics. Enjoy their Paella de Marisco consisting of Norwegian lobster, shrimp, mussels, and clams. You won’t be disappointed. And even for this foodie who

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Photo: La Fonda

Dessert Crepe at La Fonda

has no “sweet tooth,” the dessert crepe, is to live for! A delicate and thin crepe is topped with whipped cream, strawberries, dulce de leche and hot chocolate. Lunch at La Fonda, consisting of a three-course meal with wine is one of the best dining options when exploring La Rambla. Carrer dels Escudellers, 10. Tel: +34-933-01-7515. www.andilana.com/en/locales/la-fonda-3 RAO RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL BAR Located just one block west of La Rambla in what is called the Raval neighborhood is Raó, a beautiful restaurant and cocktail bar. The restaurant’s décor is a combination of authentic Catalan architecture with a modern slant. There are three areas: a spacious and open sitting area with comfortable sofas and marble tables, the bar, and then there’s a private dining room decorated with paintings, including a print of Salvador Dalí's Noia a la finestra (The Girl at the Window). Specializing in gourmet tapas, Raó is

run by a young, professional, and creative team. It’s exciting to watch them work via their open kitchen. Like an exceptional Broadway musical, each member knows their part and plays it with all their heart. All ingredients are locally sourced and seasonally influenced. Along with their gourmet tapas are platillos, medium-size dishes perfect for sharing. In Catalan Raó translates into “reason” and here are just four very strong reasons to dine here. I love their pan seared scallops with toasted cauliflower purée, Iberian pancetta, black Chanterelle mushrooms and artichoke. Perfect little pillows of deliciousness. Try their volcanic coal grilled octopus leg, creamy potato with paprika and Kalamata olive emulsion. The volcanic coal offers a hint of smokiness to the fresh and tender octopus. Another popular tapas is the sautéed sea bream, with foie gras, grilled avocado, romesco sauce and garlic aioli foam. But what’s truly exceptional is Rao’s cooked roast beef served chilled with mustard ice cream, pomegranate, and fennel. Yes, mustard ice cream! It’s pungent flavor dances beautifully with the sweetness of the pomegranate and the anise flavor of the fennel. It’s sounds really out there but with the perfectly cooked roast beef, it’s heaven. As the team says, “We use only the best seasonal products to plate creative modern delights based on a variety of Mediterranean and traditional local dishes.” Carrer de les Sitges 3. Tel: +34-9311-93-169. www.raobcn.com.

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Photo: Rao

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