Blink issue 32 september06 2014

CREST OF A NEW WAVE Using theatre and workshops to help students from Scheduled communities assimilate into India’s top institutes p2 saturday, september 6, 2014

Carlton Kitto ashoke chakrabarty

Venues and audiences for jazz might be shrinking the world over, but thanks to devout old-timers and talented newcomers, India doesn’t need to write its obituary just yet p9

Still swinging

NOT SO HUMBLE Designer labels and e-commerce websites are making handloom edgy p4

CHENNAI FORWARD A graphic take on what the city might look like 100 years from now p14

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Slam dunk Sim Margins rising

At 7ft-5inch, Sim Bhullar is the first Indian-origin player to How the Kozhikode-based Centre foritResearch and Education for Social Transformation make to the NBA (CREST) is ensuring that the Scheduled communities too partake in India’s growth story

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Well played CREST uses theatre and group activities to dissolve caste differences in the classroom

t is just another day at All India Institute of Medical Sciences (AIIMS), Delhi. Sons pull weak fathers out of autorickshaws.

Wives fan prostrate husbands in the corridors. A father carries his bandaged child in his arms. And the vendor selling plastic files titled ‘My clear folder’ is doing brisk business outside the OPD. But it isn’t just another day at AIIMS, the largest public hospital in Delhi, for it is the first day of a workshop for the new batch of MBBS students. Hospitals are singularly unsettling places, that liminal area between disease and health; the one place few choose to be. But for the 72 students who got admission this year, the toil, the sleepless nights, the arduous days are yet to begin. Right now they are busy listing ‘qualities’ with ‘leaders’ (‘Obedience’ — ‘Manmohan Singh’, they gleefully suggest), creating skits, playacting scenarios, and generally having a whale of a time.

While one might wonder how these activities will make doctors of these students, the workshop aims to make well-adjusted adults and caregivers of these teenagers. Organised by the Centre for Research and Education for Social Transformation (CREST), this weeklong session provides the students with a set of es-

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Aim high Sim Bhullar, the Sacramento Kings’ Indianorigin player, pauses during a game against the Charlotte Hornets in July at the Cox Pavilion in Las Vegas, Nevada garrett ellwood/nbae/getty images

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n a watershed moment for basketball in players and coaches. Subsequently, the Indian India, youngster Simneglected Bhullar team’s sential soft Canadian skills, which tend to be CREST international helps to dissolve these arbitraryhave and performances became the first Indian-origin player to steadily dangerous divisions through the power of during their years of studies. improved, culminating in its first-evbe signed byand a team in19 the National Bastheatre and12th-ranked group exercises.

It hopes reBetween 2006 2012, lower-caste stu- er win over China during thetofifth ketball Association suicide (NBA), North America’s re- FIBA dents committed at various profesplaceAsia theCup fractures caste with classroom for Menoflast month. nowned professional league. sional colleges across basketball India, camaraderie.

AIIMS, the day is “Bhullar’s progress will At generate interest, Earlier in June, the Sacramento spent a seriesplayer of activities that reported a Caravan article. TheKings selected but not like that ofinChinese Yao Ming. the 21-year-old to itsstudent summer toone mingle, death of a first-year at league pro- Back in 2002,force Mingthe wasstudents a number NBA gramme; if heago impresses this pre-season, pick, so there AIIMS twoand years forced Incooperate, conceivesurrounding ideas and was excitement he could be among South Asians toonehim dia’s leading collegesthe to first urgentplays just and fed projects. in the US.implement People in China off that While might play in the NBA. 7ft-5inch, he is already the how ly take stock ofAtissues around Initially, CREST organised excitement.

Bhullar, however, went undrafted wonder these tallest player currently in the league. activities will workshopssigned onlybyfor students social exclusion. and was subsequently Sacramento make Assuming Bhullar dons an NBA jersey later ofKings who got admission through resIn classrooms, divisions arise afterthought,” says Jonathdoctors theseas a strategic this October when thethe 2014-15 kicks off, anthe ervation,expert but quickly all too quickly along linesseason of Rego, a basketball who has realised worked students, it willcolour, be thedress, realisation of a of long-cherished that sports this only furthered agency the diskin occupation management workshop with aims the to leading ‘American Dream’. one’s parents, rank in the comvide in campuses.

Krishnan says, CAA KWAN and written articles for NBA.com. make well-adjusted “If weis segregated students in a petitive exams and, of course, adults and caregivers However, there hope that an Indian-oriJourney to the top demarcations programme like this, thendoors by atlanguage.

These gin player’s entry into the NBA will open of these teenagers His parents, Avtar andscenario, Varinder, migrated for other talented tending it you are declaring your create a ghetto-like youngsters.

Chief among from Punjab the in the‘us’ latefrom ’80s inthe search of better these prospects caste, your capabilities...”

With separating is the 7ft-2inch Satnam Singh opportunities a saferTY, environment.

Eldest Bhamara, an 18-year-old ‘them’. Vinod and Krishnan assothe primary goal being to reasfrom a remote village daughter Avneet (23), Sim and youngest Tan- in Punjab who ciate programme coordinator, surewas students SC Justice, and ST noticedfrom

by Troy veer upin in ‘progressive’ Toronto. Like most Canasays (19) thatgrew even Kerala, the NBA’s communities that they to be in these senior director of deserve international basketdian Sim can andreveal Tanveer by ball premier institutes, that their parents made brandchildren, of your jeans yourbegan class. Lee operations, at the Ludhiana Basketball Aplaying floor hockey (similar to icein hockey, ex- cademy. this country, it was orgaand Levis come on top, Wrangler the midHe they wasrealised sent on a best full tosports cept it isRuff played surfaces).

The scholarship dle, and & Tuffonat wooden the bottom.

An anthronise combined sessions with theIMG whole batch, to the world-class Academy ‘Bhullar soon he shifted caste are neverhedirectly adpologist Brothers’ and researcher, says he has heard where issuesinofFlorida, where has been allegiance to “I basketball, whereRuff & Tuff be- dressed buttraining students say, wouldn’t wear where the agenda is — years. make for the last four they immediate friends before you make divisions.

In a deeply causefound those people wear success, it.”

Another future NBA prospect is thanks to their height. To hone Bhullar’s 19-year-old college-gotheir skills, they moved to Huning brother Tanveer, who also I am in touch tington Prep School in West Virstands tall at 7ft-1inch. with my ginia, US. Subsequently, they Punjabi roots joined the New Mexico State UniEyeing the Indian market versity on sports scholarships.

The strategic benefits of signing In those two years, the elder an Indian player are immense, Bhullar led his team in blocks especially for a team like Sacraper game and won ‘most valuable player’ mento Kings. The team’s majority owner is Viawards back to back in the Western Athletic vek Ranadive, the Indian founder and CEO of Conference Tournament before declaring his TIBCO, a multibillion-dollar software compaeligibility for the 2014 NBA draft. ny headquartered in California. Together with Indian-origin minority investor Raj Bhathal, Hope or hype?

Ranadive acquired the franchise to prevent its “I’ve seen Bhullar on TV. He still needs to get fit, relocation to a different State. “Raj and I have lose a few pounds and work on his agility,” both built our lives and business in California, says Scott Flemming, head coach of the Indian so we felt it was our responsibility to give back national men’s basketball team, who has vast something to the State,” says Ranadive. coaching experience at the college and senior Since taking charge in March 2013, he has inlevels in the US. troduced a slew of measures to make the Bhullar’s fan following in India will be limit- Kings India’s “home team”. Last year, the team ed as he is a Canadian citizen and has already launched a Hindi version of its website represented that country on its junior nation- nba.com/kings/hindi. Subsequently, Ranadive al team. He, however, considers himself an In- and franchise player DeMarcus Cousins feadian and Canadian “equally”. “I am in touch tured in a short video exhorting Indians to with my Punjabi roots, I go to the Gurudwara vote Cousins into the NBA All Star line-up. Mioften and speak Punjabi at home; and since nority owner Shaquille O’Neal was seen padchildhood I have been instilled with great In- ded up, trying his hand at cricket. dian values,” he says over the phone.

Earlier this year, the Kings became the firstObserving that India can claim Bhullar only ever NBA team to have training jerseys with up to a point, Coach Flemming says, “We need the team name emblazoned in Hindi. The to develop players from within our system. Kings’ Sleep Train Arena has even witnessed Unlike China, India doesn’t have a profession- Bollywood-themed nights. al basketball league where players can comRanadive makes no bones about his ambipete all year long and get more exposure by tion to make basketball the second most folplaying with and against foreigners.” lowed sport in India after cricket. “Basketball Basketball in India remains a minor sport, has the potential to become stronger here without any noteworthy international suc- than football as it is easy to play and can flourcess to catapult it to mainstream attention. ish in urban environments. We hope to travel The Indian national men’s team is currently to India later this year and, if the appropriate ranked 61st in the world and the women are arenas are built, would love to have the Kings 40th. In late 2010, the Basketball Federation of play an exhibition game in the near future.”

India tied up with sports management conglomerate IMG-Reliance, which boosted fund- gopalakrishnan r is a basketball writer and the ing, foreign trips and better facilities for co-creator of ekalavyas.com

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casteist country like India, where birth can still determine professions and opportunities, often that is all students need to hear.

Ask Ajay Singh, from Barmer, Rajasthan. Belonging to a family of daily wage labourers, he studied in Barmer until Class X and moved to Bharatpur for plus two. The second of three brothers, with a younger sister, he came to know about IIT from posters and ads. His family wasn’t even aware of the hallowed institution. He travelled to Kota for his IIT-JEE coaching, where he stuck formula and charts above the kitchen stove and sink, to ensure that he was studying all the time. When he got admission for a BTech at IIT Delhi, his family were disbelieving rather than enthusiastic.

“I first came to Delhi on June 7, 2010,” he says, “How can I ever forget that date?” While the bigness of the big city might have impressed him, the lack of ghee in food disappointed him. He was most astonished by parents dropping their wards off at IIT. “No one has ever dropped me, at any time,” he says, with a laugh and a shake of the head.

Getting admission was only the first hurdle.

Four years later, Singh — now an MTech student at IIT who exudes an easy confidence — does not dwell on the past. Dr Rangarajan, who works with CREST and conducts communication classes, remembers a different boy — a terrified and overwhelmed teenager who

It organises training programmes, semiconsidered dropping out on day two. The classes were too hard, the mode of instruction nars, and colloquia that address issues conincomprehensible and the expectations unre- cerning the Scheduled communities, to help al. Students like him — often the first in the vil- ensure that they too partake in India’s growth lage to make it to these top institutes — carry story. It conducts these short-term orientation the hopes of a community, not merely a fam- programmes for undergraduate students ily. Singh, who has now become a local celebri- across various Indian Institutes of Technology, ty in his village, says, “Ranga Sir wrote in my National Institutes of Technology and enginotebook, ‘You will be a star one day’. That neering colleges of Kerala to improve the permeant a lot to me.” At times, such simple formance/aspiration level of students. words of encouragement can shift the scale Krishnan says, “CREST is the only such profrom dropping out to forging ahead. His gramme in India that caters to a particular sector to help them compete in mother has never visited Delhi an open market.” as she remains behind the confines of a ghungat (veil), but REST’s flagship programme Singh has travelled miles, he is a five-month Post Gradumeets the new batches at AIIMS It hopes to replace to motivate them, and hopes to the fractures of caste ate Certificate Course for Professional Development (PGCCPD), go to the US or UK for a PhD and with classroom held in Calicut. The course probecome a scientist. camaraderie vides skills to enable candidates from Scheduled communities to The back story compete for jobs in the open CREST is an autonomous institumarket and for higher studies. tion under the Government of Kerala that was incubated by Indian Institute Forty students from Scheduled communities of Management, Kozhikode, from 2002 to are admitted to each programme. Krishnan 2008. It was conceived as a ‘national institute says, “When such students go for campus seof humanities, science and professional stud- lections, they might not have the required ies, addressing the needs of the Scheduled confidence level. Recruiters look for other Castes and the Scheduled Tribes while inte- qualities like ‘smart’ and ‘savvy’. Those from the margins tend to be less aggressive and grating with the globalised economy.’ don’t have the required cultural capital. This programme helps instil those qualities.”

Kavitha KG, from Thodupuzha in Idukki district, Kerala, an alumna from the 2011 batch, now works as an auditor in Thiruvananthapuram. Speaking in perfect English over the phone, the 29-year-old says, “I can easily divide my life into before and after CREST.” She believes that like the other candidates, she too was “very talented, but in a shell”. The sessions on personality development, the mentorship and weekly workshops helped these students gain a new confidence. From the Malayarayan tribe, Kavitha feels that CREST’s biggest contribution is that it made her proud of her own lineage. As part of the five-month course, her classmates and she had to interview an elderly person of their community who was not a family member. Speaking to a village elder, she came to know about the ceremonies, the patterns of worship, architecture and vocation of her own community — from this awareness arose a quiet satisfaction in her own adivasi past, her own story.

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Handloom 2.0 Small-town rites

The travelling circus that is an out-of-town The more thelabels town,and the better Re-imaginedwedding. and reinvented by obscure new design e-commerce sites, the potential of the humble fabric is now almost at full stretch

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ost in Lado Sarai — yet another urban village in Delhi where change and fashion studios have found a new address — epiphany can be a while coming. But when I meet Gaurav Jai Gupta, a designer and trained weaver known for his ‘engineered’ saris and for weaving stainless steel into textiles, and he says, “All I’ve really done is made handloom edgy” — it finally hits home. Handloom is making a comeback. Reclaiming its shelf-space. But not in ways that it always has. Re-imagined and reinvented by new design labels and e-commerce sites, the potential of the fabric is almost at full stretch.

Over the years, handloom has come to occupy a space so decidedly left of centre that few have tried to redeem it or experiment with it radically. Among those who tried — and succeeded — in the mainstream fashion firmament are Abraham & Thakore, Rajesh Pratap Singh and Neeru Kumar. The not-for-profit sector, which has also been fighting the cause of handloom for years and struggling to give weavers a life of dignity, has chosen to focus, perhaps wisely, on preserving and protecting traditional weaves and motifs. Rarely, if ever, straying from the norm. Either way, handloom has long suffered from a nylon-lycra-synthetic-complex.

Notable exception As the nadaswaram hits its first few notes, you arrive at a smalltown wedding like a minor celebrity gn rao

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Organic growth An ensemble by Daniel Syiem, who works with Khasi weaves such as Ryndia and Thoh Rew Stem afp

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ver the years, I have cultivated a mildly worrying addiction to advice columns. It’s not the advice itself that interests me, but the problems. Far removed from my own life, each dilemma is a little soap opera scripted in less than 100 words. There is a strange comfort in reading these internet stangers’ problems.

They are like aquarium fish in the middle of a busy shopping mall — exotic, sad, untouchable. What to do with ex-step-sons-in-law, neighbours who have noisy sex, the dynamics of pet ownership…

The one thing guaranteed to hurt feelings and cause confusion all around seems to be weddings. Specifically, the destination wedding, which involves transporting entire wedding parties to fairytale settings. Reading these problems I feel a sense of great relief that I live in India, where a destination wedding involves, more often than not, a small town, a fairly long and uncomfortable journey, and the kind of warmth and hospitality that you will remember for years to come.

By the time my college days were beginning to wind down, I had earned the reputation of being something of a wedding junkie. I did not like the awkward affairs in the city where I would have to stand and eat my food in freezing banquet halls, my ability to eat largely hampered by the enormous weight of those five-star plates. Indifferent food was served by bored, indifferent waiters. Though these weddings were a great excuse to get out of the hostel at night, they were not much fun once you actually got there.

The out-of-town weddings, now those were things I loved. The more obscure the town, the

Making every thread count A dusty, one-horse town once, Phulia, like Gupta and Garg, has also been imprinted by handloom’s success in the last five years; its ‘overnight’ rise, a precious gift of adversity.

With the government-run Tantuja shops on the verge of rolling down shutters, 15 years ago, weavers in Phulia were losing their only source of steady income. Pushed to the brink, they were forced to go out of their comfort zone and scout for takers elsewhere. Today their soft, handspun cotton saris are a canvas for colour and design experiments, often shipped thousands of miles away from their humble homesteads.

Although nascent, the skeins of the story of Meghalaya’s Ri-Bhoi district are not very different from that of Phulia’s. Its beautiful bolts of silks recently planted on the design map by Shillong’s Daniel Syiem. Straining to latch onto broken sentences over a tenuous mobile network, like an indulgent parent, Syiem says, “You should have seen their faces,” pausing for effect, before he recreates the magic of the day he returned to the village after his first showing in Jaipur two years ago. He recalls how the weavers — women, mostly, from the Khasi tribe — couldn’t help beaming ear to ear. He insisted the shy women wear shift dresses and trousers, jackets and shirts fashioned out of Changing fabric Ryndia — the textile they had woven for him Back at Gaurav Jai Gupta’s studio — where a and, until that day, only ever used to make tralone loom stands defiantly between designer ditional stoles with. better.

I crisscrossed south mannequins like a Dr WhoIndia TAR-(KozhencherYears later, Introduced I would anonymously drive to the villagers by ry, Vijayawada, DIS Rajapalayam, — he points out that in theNagercoil) in through thehis same sprawling south Indian friend Tennyson Lyngdoh, dirty jeans andhandloom a backpackhas stuffed last few years, be- with two sa- towns, and the towns wouldinpass me by. The who was then the sericulture ris, heels and a slightly crushed come something of a cheat’s for-wedding gift. girls I had watched get married were long department, Syiem says he loved When arrive innet. a small town forEcommerce a wed- gone. mula andyou sympathy “Bridal otherand side ofversatile the world or thethe fluidity the DNA sitesLiving on ding, treated likeare a celebrity.

Everyone wear you andarehandloom the in high-rises far removed from everything of the fabric at once.

A love that hope to axe the smiles at you, if theynow,” have heard you and and shortcuts to as success he of else.share I remembered how when I was a compulwas palpable at the Lakme Fashmiddlemen longed to see Theretois play an excitement inof fair says, “but fewyou. bother sivetrade wedding-attendee, everyone lovedhis me. ion Week this year, where all-I benefits the is contagious and inescapable. withair thethat textile.”

A charge that was well-fed, organic and people I didn’t know collection with smiled lesserwith the weavers There too much against food, and cannotisbe levelled histhe la- smell of san- at me and held my hand as wesuch talked. known weaves as Ryndia dalwood and crushed damp roses drifts above bel. Combining multiple weavWhen I gotand married, knew it had to be in Thoh IRew Stem opened to everything else. and You styles see people ing techniques from— uncles and the dusty oldmuch templeacclaim. town that I pretend is my aunts giddy best.

They can reinvent hometown, Chidambaram. across at thetheir subcontinent to ‘engiI made my glamAdmittedly, the periphery of themselves when they meet a stranger neer’ a single nine-yard sari oryou, a dress, Gupta orous friends travel by bus suffer through Syiem’s experiments haveand been somewhat from Theyloom can be(and funny puts far hisaway. studio’s later, looms in limited so far our cuts and to inadequate — power often restricted different and kind and spontaneous in to a the ultimate styles of draping, Phulia, Chanderi and Banaras) air-conditioning.

Through the some inspired by the local way thathim is about impossible to be style of weav- attire of jainsem. test. Ask his signature haze But of incomprehensible wedbuoyed by a newfound around people you have known ing metal and crystals into fabric though, and confidence, and ding content rituals, I in could them in the see knowledge for long. When youit’s visit he’lltoo remind you that notfor asapath-breaking the distance, thoroughly charthat his clothes can straddle the local and They can be funny wedding, and for“Iaused wedding, as it seems atjust first. copper (andand evenkindglobal by every inconvenience they Syiem for his next collection is and divide,med you don’tfrom know the cassettes) petty quarthe tape audio as rawspontaneous material working encountered.

The hotel rooms a textile designer to develop in a way with rels past, the backofinthe college.

Andawful if youthings think of it,that a couple straight out ofand a 1980s’ Tamil new weaving techniques revive old mopatis impossible to that might happen in the of generations ago, zarifuture. inevitablybe meant vie, the tinymore bakery that was and the terns and checks to add local colour around people Children follow you gold, around threads of silver or even did it not?” source of those baffling sugarheft to his label. you have known for and fight for over who gets to sit Unlike, instance, his contemporary Sancoated murukkus I would bring to too long next to you.

You are jay Garg’s Raw Mango labelphoto— which has script- Casting a wider thenet hostel. graphed with blockbuster people youinwill ed the biggest handloom retail The internet, meanwhile, There are days when I try anda is also spinning not meetyears again.

At its some point, candy-hued minor handloom in recent with refreshing, think up problemsofforitsadvice revolution own.coEyou start thinking aboutfrom never treatment of gossamers Chanderi, hyp- commerce sites lumnists the aftermath of an such asinIndianRoots, Chandeleaving this small town. YouIndian could wear become a Indian er-colourising traditional like wedding a small town: I was treated riyaan and Ekayain are driving well-thought-out schoolteacher, bank teller, the owner of a like never before — athe colour palette of Gupta’s royalty and it madefor myinstance, socialistisself unagendas.

Chanderiyaan, a demsmall would never be a traffic comfortable.

Akaarotea-shop. almost You always mimics aninovercast, Or I was fed so many sweets that ocratic platform attempting to arm weavers jam again, you rent aclear house less than my monsoonal sky.could Steering offor the betterclothes wouldn’t fit. in the Ashok Nagar District of Chanderi with what you spend onthe your tiny apartment.

As digital known heavy silks, Rohtak-born, LondonI felt like I travelled back insquarely time to aonkinder, skills.

Ekaya focuses decothe last bus of the also day bounces out to of simpler educated designer tends toyou return world.

I laughedand and cried and rative weaves, handwoven needle-crafted town, leave from these relatively thoughts behind try danced lighteryou cottons obscureand places withThe strangers.

I hadalso never left.a in Banaras. latter’sI wish website plays not think tooSambalpur, hard about your needand to travel liketo Tope, near in Orissa Phu- short, smartly produced documentary on the snigdha a Hyderabad-based writervoand never stay too long. lia intoWest Bengal. processesmanickavel of weaving,is set to semi-classical

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Unequal music Despite the odds, one weaver refuses to abandon his loom and claims nothing can be better than a weaver’s life

Engineered elegance Models showcase an Akaaro collection in Delhi, the colour palette decidedly monsoonal rv moorthy

cals and sweeping views of the city’s photogenic ghats. A film that is evidently geared, like the website’s wares, to tug at the heartstrings and purse strings of both an urban Indian and global audience. IndianRoots too has its money on the expanding international market for handloom and an evolved, Indiainspired aesthetic that popular design blogs such as An Indian Summer have long espoused.

So even though it’s not an original analogy, when Rahul Narvekar declares, “Hand-crafted leather bags are high-luxury here, yet a sari hand-woven and hand-painted over months was never quite kosher,” it is impossible not to be swept by the force of his argument. As the CEO of IndianRoots, the ethnic retail arm of NDTV, launched in August to serve “India on a digital platter” to the paisely-loving, Diwalihugging diaspora, Narvekar should know.

When we call him, he’s on tour in southern India, retracing some of the 2,600km across Tamil Nadu, Karnataka, Kerala and Puducherry that were mapped by management students from Coimbatore at his company’s behest.

“And it’s only the tip of the handloom iceberg,” he says.

With savvy strategies — IndianRoots roped in heavyweights Sabyasachi, Anita Dongre, Meera & Muzaffar Ali and Raw Mango, among others, to draw in the deep pockets from day one — the e-commerce site hopes to axe the middlemen and share the benefits of fair trade with average weavers as well. It also hopes to do what others like Jaypore have sought to do in recent times — think out of the box, and quite literally. Breaking the stereotypes endorsed by the offline or big box retailers in countries like the US and UK, it hopes to peddle an idea of India that doesn’t quite subscribe to mothballed ‘exotica’ sold out of incense-scented living rooms, blessed by a whole pantheon of miniature Hindu gods and goddesses.

“The only trouble is,” says Narvekar, “craftsmen and weavers can’t reproduce the same piece or scale up production at the drop of a hat.” A rationale long appropriated and used to good advantage by peddlers of high-luxury merchandise across the world. And a lesson, perhaps, for handloom, as it takes a leap of faith into a new, avantgarde unknown. soity banerjee

Rhythm and blues A couple weave a Korvai sari at CERC, Kalakshetra, Chennai; and (below) PL Banumurthi sujatha shankar kumar

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s a student at Ahmedabad’s Nation- located between Arani and Vellore. In Class IX, al Institute of Design (NID), I joined when his mother died leaving behind five chila birdwatching group. It was the dren, he dropped out of school to take her first time I saw Baya weavers mak- place as a weaver. By 15, he was adept at weaving nests between tall rushes at the end of the ing. Children were often involved in pre-loom grounds. Bayas are known to make up to 500 activities in the traditional setting. “You have trips for a nest. With no one to disturb them, to inculcate these skills early. I would be asked they flew to and fro, bringing fine stalks of to fetch bobbins or spin the thread... There is grass to weave their retort-shaped nests. We nothing wrong in a child helping the housewatched silently, shushing each other. In hold, yet weavers today fear this. They do not those days, stepping into the institute’s textile want their children to weave.” department, it was not unusual to find stuIt is a male weaverbird that makes the nest, dents and faculty weaving at looms. There was and it is usually a man who does the bulk of no reason to think handloom might peter out, weaving. There are 4,000 threads in the warp just as there was never a thought that the wea- being prepared by a weaver at the Centre. Baverbird might stop building its nest. Yet, time numurthi says weaving is the ideal exercise has spared neither — weavers of for the human body and he recthe avian and human kind are ommends starting before sunsteadily losing ground, and the rise. “Like going for a brisk walk! looms have fallen silent. Like The weaving done from five to They keep pace, like some Bayas that somehow maneight in the morning is the maxipiano players age to ferret out three stalks of mum one can can achieve, more performing a duet tall grass to continue building than what is possible in an entire nests, a few humans find ways to morning until lunchtime.” keep weaving.

In the early morning, the loom In the light-filled airy space of is on its best behaviour and the Craft Education and Research Centre at Ka- moves without fits and starts. As the day wears lakshetra, Chennai, a couple weave a Korvai sa- on and the heat sets in, the loom slows and beri. It is fascinating to watch. She works on the comes crankier. In the past, weavers bought a short border at one end and he works across ‘Dobby box’ from Salem with which the the warp to cover the main width of the sari threads could be directed to make simple patand the other border. He is faster and stronger, terns for the sari border. With the invention of and she diminutive. Once in a while she gets the Jacquard loom, which uses a punch card to off her perch to go and spin more bobbins read patterns, weavers could make more comand he applies silk glue on the finished plicated designs of paisleys and flowers. Banuportions. Korvai means “to sync” and they murthi designed a korvai loom by integrating keep pace together, like two piano players several processes into an automated system performing a duet, each concentrating on with which one person can weave an entire saa set of keys but keeping the rhythm. Their ri in two days. This work fetched him the Nasymphony is a sari. “You say there are tional Innovation Foundation award in 2007. fewer weavers by the hour, but from At the Crafts Council of India’s annual meet, where I come, each year one more Banumurthi spoke earnestly that weavers weaver joins,” says PL Banumurthi, were no longer disciplined enough to wake the foreman. “Nothing could be bet- early and weave. Many weavers stood up and ter than a traditional weaver’s life. shouted in protest: they wanted their leisure He comfortably sits in his own and to not be tied to the loom. The common space, with an eye on his children, desire today is to get work done quicker and wife and elders. He doesn’t have to make life easier. Ultimately, however, there is rush back from work, anxious to no easy bargain, only a balance of trades and complete some errand that was time. By dissipating the ecology of weaving, not possible during the day. He we lose the natural harmony of community has everything he needs within and craft. There is no equal music. the space of his home.”

Banumurthi grew up in sujatha shankar kumar is a Chennai-based Durgam Gramam, a village writer and photographer

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PAPERWALLAH

Viewing a writer’s life Writing is an act of mystery and, perhaps, best left undescribed dipankar

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irginia Woolf greets you at the door.

Sepia-tinted, larger than life, wrapped luxuriously in fur. Like a good janice pariat hostess, she seems indiscriminately pleased to see everyone. Her face, delicate, emotive, carries a small, ceaseless smile. In the image, taken by an unknown photographer in 1937, she is 55. This summer, London’s National Portrait Gallery has been ambitious, not in terms of size — for the exhibition unfolds only in three rooms — but subject. ‘Virginia Woolf: Art, Life and Vision’ hangs on an archway above her head. It promises much, and I try to push away my ambivalence — the kind I always feel before an encounter with a visual project attempting to portray a writer’s life.

Under her gaze, I slip inside, and wonder what this might add to my understanding of her and her work.

As it so happened, not much.

Which is not to say the exhibition was inSHOVON CHOWDHURY is chief Truthdigger and author competently orchestrated. Much care had of The Competent Authority been taken to source documentation — photographs of people closest to the author, family, n news welcomed by both Runa Laila servants, lunch. Energy breaks will them TS Eliot player.” To increase leadership effi- rejected. “We thought this was an openand friends (among and Grameen Bank, BCCI has an- and take place after every 20 Bloomsbury circiency, a schedule has been made and-shut case,” said the BCCI, “As far back as Henry James), the famed nounced a 15-Test series against Ban- cleovers.

Bowlers taking — Duncan Fletcher will be in April, a panel was set up with neutral ob(also known as posh, neurotic, ‘intellectual charge from 10am to 2pm, MS server Ravi Shastri and a relative of BCCI gladesh. “India’s overseas record has aristocrats’), more than three town and country her various Dhoni till 6pm and Ravi Shas- president Shivlal Yadav. Given the need for been a matter of concern,” said a BCCI homes, wickets an inrare in glimpses of her childhood (mostspokesman, “Steps had to be taken to arrest ly, nings will be droptri will tackle the night shift. unbiased investigation, a former director it seemed, spent playing cricket). Parts of In related news, former of CBI was also included. This elite panel the decline. We have also requested the theped from show eventhe readnext like a racy Harlequin novel BCCI chief N Srinivasan has thoroughly examined the evidence and Ministry of External Affairs to revoke — Woolf’s match, and faceif pesecret, short-lived, day-long enfailed in his bid to be formal- concluded that there was no wrongdoing Anushka Sharma’s passport. Sushmaji was gagement nalties of up to Lytton 50 to writer Strachey, her brief very supportive, although due to surveil- flirtation per cent match ly reinstated as BCCI chief. He by anybody related to any of us. We fail to withofher brother-in-law Clive Bell, lance devices she refused to talk. But she herfees.

Wicketkeeper-caphad appealed to the Su- understand the need for further enquiry.” doting adoration of the aristocrat Vita did smile and raise her hand in blessing.” Sackville-West. tain MS Dhoni will be preme Court, citing Meanwhile, the International Cricket Disproportionately, much had “acute pain in fin- Council declared its full support for the Stringent conditions have been laid been provided with small assistmade of heraexperience of war-torn Londown for the series. All right arm seam bow- don ant wicketkeeper,given whoit’s won’t be gers from exces- BCCI. “Under the inspirational leadership (unsurprising, the World War I lers will be bowling left arm. Field restric- centenary), counted in the playing XI. “We’ll be selecsive remote of my colleague N Srinivasan, I’m confident while very little is explored of tions will remain in place through each Woolf’s ting one small pacifism, batsman,”anti-imperialism, said a source in control usage”. BCCI will take Indian cricket to new anti-war match, except for a 15-minute period before or the “Together they will count one His appeal was heights,” said N Srinivasan, chairman, ICC. her team, experience of mental illness thatasevenLady with a room A portrait of Virginia Woolf by her sister Vanessa Bell national trust images tually led to her taking her own life in 1951.

Within theasking National Gallery’s himPortrait to resign, andprishe tine walls, something was amiss.

Her Litkeeps saying no. But hevoice. cannot erally, because an audio resistthere’s the willscarcely of the people.

In ters, future visual portrayals of a rated that’s less tomb-like. recording ofthis hercase, in existence loathed to contemporary writer’s life might be enlivened 3,000 or(she 4,000 people, Yet, beyond innovative and interactive give press interviews). alsoof the180 voice of an by the abundance of digital material. ‘The Col- shows, the question remains: does it bring us which in aAnd nation million author as written text.

Of the intimacy forged lected Emails?’ is a very significant number.” any closer to the author? Is that even achieved when we open“What a book,about flip itsthe pages, markon its assault Well, why not? by excavating their lives and uncovering expewords. Despite theI proliferation biopics PTV?” ask. “That alsoofwent very— At Emory University’s Shatten Gallery, in Ge- riences that may have shaped their stories?

Sylvia, Iris, Capote (what’s this “200-300 penchant orgia, US, for instance, you may snoop Perhaps this mad drive to reveal — creative well,” says thewith General, drive away mosquitoes. even —prohe police constable is muttering for one-name titles?)representing — exhibitions rarer. through Salman people theare people Rushdie’s computer.

For all to writing courses, literaryThey festivals springs a sweet dish withatjaggery. under his breath as he tries to Writers’ livesprotested don’t always make Sharif’s for great miscine- the physical Nawaz memorabilia — hand-drawn cov- vided from the fact thatmade writing, its mostNow powerful make aChildren, lachchaBono’s paratha.

Hisforef-The our SP has said Rampur district ma, less so for gallery displays. as farand as I ers for Midnight’s rule by stealing 20 Few, cameras lyrics and vibrant, is inherently anshould act of not mystery. fall persists behind,what so Joshua here I Rothman, am, forts are not very succan recall, have been attempted.

I The Army beating up reporters.

Ground Beneath Her Feet — the fo- And that there cessful. He cus spits on exhibit the lachcha left wondering visual also whether did its duty and beat up reof the is something archives editormaking for The New Yorker,paratha. calls ‘the artAfter this, I have to getimagground, taking care to spit treatments of a writer’s are channels. porters fromlifeother intangible: 18 gigabytes of re- ist’s sense of privacy’.

If life, as Woolf interrupt the Pakistani otherwise All away from trieved the buffalo, inevitably bound fail. busy Or leave Sinceto we’re protecting PTV digital data. Read first ined, was best anddiesel, most intensely experienced Writers’ lives don’t general while he is watchwhich is watching will not function an attendee from vaguely dissatisfied. private channels, we may drafts him and correspondence when touched byOut inexplicability, so it is with always make for great ing Dr Strangelove. “It’s my during cut.” us. This affectionately.about his work, check his ‘stick- writing. Or any art Perhaps. If the template, not be able tolike dothis much when the formpower that moves cinema, less so for favourite movie,” he says, “If I wanted toYou’re be a cook, “What about dess- by one, remains unchanged. masses attack Row Nawaz Sharif’s ies’. privy to the author’s core of secrecy, she believed, was preserved gallery displays “especially the ending.” I apolask.— “Don’t would I havecreative paid soprocess much in context, right shielding it from ert?” upon row of house, dry evidence of thesuggested by as has been pryingI eyes others’ and ogise for disturbing him, but I ask,” he says, “One of- most to be a policeman?” he asks, ‘Literary Life’ — letters, diary pagImran-bhai.” down to the games he played our own. Because when it comes to our have a job to do. My job is to ask wiping the sweat from his from writing. abstract and spiritual ficerintuitions, has beenfrom sus-where es, endless first editions.

It “Whither democracy?”

I ask, during breaks him questions, even though he pended already.

He what forehead. “Those Saharanneedn’t be so. In 2012, the“Definitely British worried. it will (Perhaps, in time, his Facebook art is born, looking too closely changes is a non-vegetarian and cannot pur boys have unnecessagot the gulab Library organised the ambitious and excellent wither,” says the General, “If the posts and Twitter timeline will be archived.) At we feel, robs it of radiance.

Therejamuns, is reward in be trusted. “How are the negobut he forgot to get rilyUniversity made life of difficult for ‘Writing Britain: Wastelands to Wonderlands’, elected government does not fall the Texas, Austin, the ‘born digi- leaving certain things undescribed, unspecitiations with Nawaz Sharif gothe ice cream.” everyone.

I understand exploring literature inspired by landscape

by Tuesday, Imran-bhai has said tal’ literary remains of Norman Mailer in- fied, and unknown.

‘Virginia Woolf: Art, Life ing?” I ask. “Negotiations are buffalodevoid stamps standards need toothers, be raised,three laptops and Vision’ was The around the he British Isles.his Brought by clude, will hold breath alive and reamong curiously of on Virginia going well,” says the General, theI have ground.

Thewould constable but why so much?

When Azamji’s sound recordings, videos, letters, photofuse to have his vegetables.

But documenting correspondence and literary Woolf. She, a feeling, be immen“A simple pattern has been buffaloes the border from Punjab, up his efforts. I smile at the man, sagraphs, maps, songwelyrics and drawings, as drafts. are hoping it will not Thecrossed Susan Sontag Papers, at the Univer- speeds sely pleased. established. We keep theyofmade garma-garam rotis and lit fires well as manuscripts come and to printed that.” editions. sity California Los Angeles, contain 17,198 lute the buffalo and leave.

Which persuades me to think that while peo- emails. Add to this a wealth of visual and au- janice pariat’s novel Seahorse will be published in The Investigator is a fortnightly round-up of all things droll and newsy.the All passing views areofpersonal. t@shovonc ple may mourn the age Really of let-personal dio recordings and an exhibition might be cu- November t@janicepariat

BCCI ANNOUNCES 15TEST SERIES AGAINST BANGLADESH!

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WILL CRUSH DEMOCRACY

BY TUESDAY, SAYS PAK ARMY!

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U.P. POLICE TO MAKE LACHCHA PARATHA!

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LIGHTHOUSE

Stranger at the next table You are not talking about anything private; maybe you are talking about a film, or a friend’s divorce. Will the presence of a stranger affect the content and tone of your conversation?

The dandy lion We dress up for a social gathering and then spend all our time there behaving like the person we’d like others to believe we are shutterstock

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have a coffee shop question for you. You are sitting in a café with a friend, talking about this and that, and a stranger comes and sits at the next table. It could be anyone: a gorgeous girl, a Bollywood celebrity, a gym-toned hunk. There is a moment’s pause, while you and your friend take in the presence of this new person, and then you continue talking. But you are aware that this stranger, who is alone, can hear every word you say. You and your friend are not talking about anything private; maybe you are talking about a new film you saw, or a book you read, or a friend’s divorce. Will the presence of the stranger at the next table affect the content and tone of your conversation?

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Amit Varma is a novelist. He blogs at indiauncut.com

here is a YouTube clip floating around on the interwebs that has been linked to a lot recently. It features Robin Williams and Stephen Fry chatting with Michael Parkinson. In it, Fry, who had just written a book on bears, comments on how animals are different from humans: “When you wake up in the morning, a bear does not say, ‘Oh god, I was a very bad bear yesterday. I’m guilty.’ They don’t feel guilty that they possess organs of sexual generation. They don’t feel they should wear clothes. They just spend 100 per cent of every minute of every hour of every day being a bear.

And a treefrog spends all its time being a treefrog. We spend a lot of time trying to be somebody else. You know, trying to be like the person next door, the person on television, the person in the movies... we're trying to be some-

because someone you had never met before and would never meet again was listening?

Does the approval or admiration of strangers matter to you?

I reached middle age recently — it is a mental state more than an age, I know, but I got there anyway — and got down to thinking about all the things I didn’t like about myself.

At 20, I had been an obnoxious, insufferable, arrogant fool, but I wouldn’t dislike that guy so much if I hadn’t changed in many ways, so that’s okay. But there is one quality I still have and don’t like and would love to discard: the anxiety about how other people perceive me.

This damn anxiety is common to us all; it’s probably the most prominent part of the human condition. We dress up before going to social gatherings, comb our hair, apply make up or shave or suchlike, preen preen preen — and then spend all our time at these gatherings behaving like the person we’d like others to believe we are. Everything we say or do in public is, at some level, for the consumption of others. When we are truly ourselves, whatever that is, if such a thing is even possible, it is because we are fatigued from the pretence, and let our guard down.

So my middle-age resolution, which I have the rest of my life to break repeatedly, is that I want to be comfortable in my own skin. I don’t want to care about what others think of me.

And if I am in a café chatting with a friend, I don’t want that conversation to be affected by a stranger at the next table. Even if my friend is an imaginary friend.

body else. Animals, supremely, are themselves.”

(If I may add to this, it could be said that animals are Buddhist. They are always living in the moment. They are mindful. I know people who go to Vipassana courses to attain just this quality. I did once, many years ago, and for the he Stephen Fry video. The reason people last eight days of the 10-day course, I basically have been linking to it is that Robin Wilthought about sex. But the first meal I had after the course, at an Italian restaurant, was the liams killed himself recently, and this is one of best I’ve had in my life. The restaurant had the YouTube clips where he is at his funniest. I nothing to do with it. My 10 days of focussing also found it incredibly sad. In the first part of on the senses were responsible. My taste buds this interview, Williams speaks to Parkinson, took in every damn nuance of the dish I ate. I and brings the house down. In the second part, Fry joins Williams, and was in the moment — though I you’d expect this half to be mainsuppose in a different way from ly about Fry and the book he’s a bear having a meal, which promoting. But Williams keeps probably just goes through the interrupting him, wisecracking routine motions programmed Everything we say or constantly, not letting Fry cominto it. Also, bears are vegetarian, do in public is, at plete many of his thoughts. It’s which puts a limit on prandial some level, for the almost like at some level he is pleasure. And this is precisely consumption of saying, “Look at me. I’m here too. the kind of pointless parenthetiothers I’m so funny. Don’t you love me?” cal digression that humans, and Fry is graceful about this, and not bears or treefrogs, indulge in even jokes about Williams’s ‘lotoo much.) gorrhoea’, and Williams has the Fry’s point, I suppose, was that what sets humans apart from other creatures wit to laugh at himself. You sense his selfis that we are social animals in such a way that awareness here, and also his sadness. (This inwe allow other people to define our self-im- terview was recorded in 2002.) I think Wilage. We care too much about what they think liams knew, as most comedians must, that humour is an anaesthetic. That’s all it is. And of us. This is absurd. there must be times when it isn’t enough. he stranger at the next table. Would you t@amitvarma speak differently, or say different things,

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A comedy of errors Uttar Pradesh chief minister Akhilesh Yadav recently accused actress and BJP politician Hema Malini of promoting ‘love jihad’ through her film Dharmatma (1975)

On the streets of Islamabad Will the Imran Khan and Tahirul Qadri ‘roadshow’ turn out to be a minor diversion in the evolution of Pakistan’s democracy?

FILM FATALE

ment Musharraf has been meted out since Sharif assumed power. Now facing charges of treason for his 1999 coup d’état and upending of the constitution, Musharraf has had to suffer indignities that no Pakistani general has ever had to: periodic appearances in court, house arrest and some stern admonitions from the bench.

A key moment in the new regime of accountability came in May 2011, when the head of the Directorate of Inter-Services Intelligence (ISI), Pakistan’s “State within the State” appeared before the national assembly, hat in hand. The US had just carried out a raid in the northern city of Abbottabad, a stone’s throw away from Pakistan’s military training academy, to eliminate the alleged mastermind of the global Islamic jihad, Osama bin Laden.

And the ISI head at the time, Lt-Gen Shuja Pasha had to don the sackcloth to admit before the country’s elected representatives that his agency had been completely unaware of bin Laden’s presence on Pakistani territory.

Pasha is reportedly now in Khan’s corner, assiduously cheering him on. Others, including former army chief Mirza Aslam Beg, claim to In the real world, Hindus, Sikhs and Chris- have conscious prejudices and fears — that guidthey definitively identified Musharraf’s tians find themselves on the same side of this ing need not behind worry: ‘our girl’ isofnot lost to ‘them’; hand the siege Islamabad. battle, possibly because (let’s not mince words instead girl’ establishment, has come over to ‘us’.known Yet the‘their political once here) a majority of them view Muslims with to Rensil D’silva’s Kurbaan was of uncomabandon principle at the(2009) first whiff partifear and even greater suspicion than they view san monadvantage, and seemingly revolutionary in this reallowed not the slightest chink each other. Hindi filmmakers, however, seem to gard since Kapoor played a Hindu girl show in Kareena its determination to face the IK-TQ focused offering reassurances to their Hinlitias in on North Waziristan — its ostensible ra- challenge. who falls inFormer love with a Muslim (Saif Khan) President Asif AliAliZardari du audience while telling tionale — the alone summoning of the inter-commuarmy in aid of urged in the film.

Kurbaan even featured wonderthe prime minister to stay afirm, and nity romantic tales. caused great heartburn both civil administration fully frank conversation between girl’sPafahouses of Parliament — withthe Khan’s Nearly 30 years after Dharmatma, YashtoChoamong quarters that have grown averse the kistan ther and the boy regarding the old man’s Tehreek-e-Insaaf (PTI) members vacatpra’s Veer-Zaara (2004) narrated the story of ing intrusive khaki presence in politics.

And when reservations his daughter marrying their seatsabout — unanimously resolved not toa Hinduproved Indianrather boy Veer Pratap Singh the army quiescent to the (Shah IK-TQ yield Muslim.

Themob scene brought into the open the to the diktat.

Rukh of Khan) and thequestions Pakistani Muslim Zaa- actual siege Islamabad, about itsgirl intent concerns such liaisons would invitesesin When Nawaz Sharif summoned a joint ra Haayat Khannew (Preity Zinta). Couched in flut- sion began to gain traction. mostof Indian families. then Saif’s characParliament onAnd September 2, the PTI tering was thedeclined fact thatcomment Zaara moves Armychiffons headquarters on members ter turns out to be a back terrorist. you view the trooped in. IfKhan himself to India, the meeting lovers are ultimately the primewhere minister’s with the chiefreof seemed film in isolation, that’s perfectly If anxious to shake off theacceptable. image of beunited.But The film a box-office staff. newswas organisations you at ithorse in theforcontext of ing alook stalking the army, success, and it’s hard that have earned thenot iretoofwonthe Bollywood’s in this berating thetrack primerecord minister for der how most for Indian demonstrators theirviewers alleged matter, youhaving will see why the allegedly asked for writGenwould havestance, reacted to a mainpro-regime reported that er here deemed it acceptable eral Raheel Sharif’s mediation. — Imran Khan himself stream film in the army commercial had disavowed any ineven necessary — to make ansurexThen another rumour It’s hard not to to seemed anxious whichto an Hindu girl tent takeIndian over, insisting inception in thisonfilm, make faced, egging the and slow-movwonder how would shake off the image of moveson torenegotiating Pakistan for her Musstead its space the partner ingwoman tableauthe of Hindu democracy in in a most Indian viewers being a stalking horse lim lover. within the political realm. the relationship for a change. self-destruct mode.

News outhave for reacted the armyto The Hindu-boy-Muslim-girl There were whispers then ofli-a Hindu-Christian rolets, which haveBollywood themselves a mainstream aison was a constant in being Mani Bangladesh-type solution mances are as rare asin Hindu-Musbeen active players the ongocommercial film in Ratnam’s Bombay (1995), not a crafted — undoubtedly, referring lim affairs, reported but thesethat tooParliahave ing drama, which an Indian Bollywood film arrangement but dubbed to the governing in stuck a formula: Hindu–hero, ment to would demand the Hindu girl moves to fromcountry Tamil, Shaad Ali’s Jhoom Ba-2007 and that between January the Christian–heroine.

Think Bobby resignation of Pakistan’s two most powerful Pakistan for her rabar Jhoom (2007), Sanjay elections of December 2008,Leela where the army’s (1973), Julie (1975), Ankhiyon ke Jhamen in uniform: the chief of staff and the ISI Muslim lover Bhansali’s Saawariya (2007), Haguiding hand was barely concealed.

That fol- director-general. rokon Se (1978) or, more recently, bib Faisal’s Ishaqzaade (2012) consensus, lowed a breakdown of political AjabwasPrem Ki dispelled.

Ghazab Kahaani That rumour quickly Speakand pretty much every fictitious with the ruling party and opposition fighting ers in the joint (2009), and Ek sittingCocktail seemed(2012) focused more Hindu-Muslim romance thatof a caretaker on upholding on the streets over the character Main Ekk Tu (2012).of electoral theAur fundamentals comes to mind. — required under the consti- democracy, administration It would be easy to pretend that this trend is rather than disabusing the army Not for moment is this column suggestitution — toaoversee elections in January 2007. a mere coincidence, or to cite seems exceptions to of its political ambitions.

A deal to be in ngPolitics that the of is these filmsdispensaare com- the in directors Bangladesh a bipolar counter the argument made, orpart to acworks, which wouldbeing preserve some of munal.

Evidently though, playing it the tion, where one player can they makeare a difference. cuseautonomy columnists of the a cynical over-analysis of that army fears has eroded safe by disgruntlement catering to the overt or covert, Khan’s did not rise to conthe rapidly innocentsince entertainment. be naïve or Musharraf Let’s lost not power.

In the sciouslevel or subconscious, or real pa- slow same even in termsperceived of the politics of the lie toevolution ourselves, please. Bollywood its of Pakistan’s democracy,and where triarchal-communalism of the 2013 majority street.

He was placed third in elec- every viewersinstitution would do well to introspect the — the judiciary, about the unicommunity membersally in the audience.

Clearly, tions, and newfound Qadri has never been formed patriarchal-communalism evident in these services and the elected bodies — is Hindi for filmmakers a Muslimamost contender electoral consider legitimacy, save his competing ‘coincidences’.

The last thing this country zealously to establish competitive boy-Hindu-girl romance hotupper to handle.

2002 nomination to a seattoo in the house advantage, needs is forthe itsIK-TQ film industries unwittingly ‘roadshow’to may well turn When they do portray ro- out by Pervez Musharraf, theinter-community last man to rule Pasupport bigotry. to beoff-screen a minor diversion. mances, opt for subtle populism reassurkistan inthey military uniform. anna mm muralidharan vetticad is the author of The Adventures is a fellow at the Indian ingA specific communal — and within even sukumar groundviewers for unhappiness of an Intrepid Film Critic of Advanced Study,t@annavetticad Shimla non-communal weighed sub- Institute the khaki ranks ones is perhaps thedown roughbytreat-

‘Love jihad’ and Bollywood

Most inter-community romances in Hindi cinema feature a Hindu man with a woman from a minority community. Is this a coincidence? Or closet patriarchal-communalism at work?

anna mm vetticad Green revolution?

Imran Khan, chairman of the opposition party Pakistan Tehreek-e-Insaf (PTI), at the Revolution March in Islamabad last week reuters/akhtar soomro

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e’s not known for making cinematic references. The past month, though, has been an exception for Uttar Pradesh chief minister, Akhilesh Yadav. Taking a potshot at the Sangh Parivar’s ‘love jihad’ campaign, Yadav asked at a public function whether Bharatiya vents were hurtling yet Janata again Partoty (BJP) MP and proof Bollywood actress Hema Maliwards that democratic politics ni was promoting through the in Pakistan‘love is itsjihad’ own worst enemy.

Indian-Afghan romance in her filmasDharmatFor roughly a fortnight, former ma (1975). icon Imran Khan and the expatriate cricketing Is ‘loveentrepreneur jihad’ actually happening?

Let’s set religious Tahirul Qadri (referred aside that question for the moment to examto in media shorthand as the IK-TQ tandem) ine Yadav’s misplacednational choice of film. Prime Statelaid siege to Pakistan’s capital, ments from the Sangh and from Minister Nawaz Sharif Parivar floundered for a BJP releaders, The in particular, definehad ‘love as a sponse. demonstrators onejihad’ demand, conspiracy to lure Hindu women by seemingly non-negotiable: that to theIslam prime getting Muslim to feign them. In minister, electedmen in May 2013love withfor a comfortDharmatma though, majority, it was the step man down (playedand by able parliamentary Feroz over Khan)towho was a Hindu. hand a caretaker administration that Yadav would be hard-pressed to find the reKhan would lead. verse in any at Bollywood film.

For Thathappening demand, sharply odds with Khan’s the truth is, most fictionalthe inter-community image as one who played game hard but romances Hindi cinema have fair, wouldinhave been laughed outfeatured of court,a Hindu mannurtured with a woman from a minority were it not by hidden wellsprings of community. a coincidence or establishcloset pasupport.

AndIs this while the political triarchal-communalism at response work? to the efment mulled over its best The answer from life. Those frontery, the comes crowds thereal IK-TQ duo who had speak of ‘love jihad’increasingly always speak of Hindu assembled became restive, spillwomen cases,sensitive Christian and Sikh ing over (in intosome the most precincts of women) beingcapital. drawn They to Muslim Why the national came men. perilously isn’t atogender reversal regarded close the security perimeter of as theequally prime worrisome?

Primarilyraided because our society’s minister’s residence, theofstudios of the deeply patriarchal notions and of identity and reliState-owned broadcaster occupied the gion, where bride ‘leaves’ her family and — in street whereaParliament is situated. thePakistan’s case of a mixed marriage — even her Supreme Court weighed in comwith munity,strictures to adopt her husband’s name, faith sharp about the thoroughfare, and people.

The resultantpolitical loss of aaspirations woman to where all the country’s another especially for a muchwere nowreligious focused, group, being blockaded a sechated one, wounds community For tarian cause.

And the Nawaz Sharif ego. himself people who countoff thethe numbers their fold seemed to shake sense ofindisorientatoo, ittomeans a loss because andGeneral her womb tion call Pakistan’s armyshe chief, Ra(for that is all woman is worth to some peoheel Sharif, foraconsultations. ple) arearmy automatically assumed belong The was already in placeto tonow defend the to the ‘other’. prevailing proprietorial atcapital underWith a constitutional provision intitudes,ina woman’s choose a partner voked July, wellability beforeto the IM-TQ ‘roadis considered questionable; her rightover to show’.

Despite broad political consensus choose her partner or her religion is ignored. the military operations against extremist mi-

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Jazz just changed its tune The story of jazz in India is of devout old-timers and innovative newcomers. It is a tough world to survive in, but it is here to stay and swing

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arlton Kitto still draws in a crowd. It has been 39 years since he first played at Kolkata’s Oberoi Grand.

As the 71-year-old jazz guitarist takes stage at the luxury hotel’s Chowringhee Bar, a table of three holler — “We’ve come here only for you.” A middle-aged woman walks up to him, “You taught my nephew how to play.

He still thinks you are god,” she says. Kitto is shy, and after jogging his memory, he remembers, “He was one of my best students, but doesn’t he play some kind of Bangla rock now?” The disapproval, however, is ephemeral. A younger man has begun discussing Finding Carlton, a documentary that casts Kitto as

the protagonist to uncover the story of jazz in India. Beaming from the attention, Kitto finally plugs in his guitar. Though slouched because of a spinal injury, the next two hours help prove that neither his fingers nor his spirit have been impeded.

At home in his cramped two-room flat, Kitto loses his toupee and some of his inhibitions.

He rails against contemporary musicians who can’t read sheet music. “You can’t play jazz with this A-B-C nonsense.” Authentic jazz, he says, last existed in the ’60s and ’70s. “After that things like fusion and rock crept in. A sitar won’t help invent some new genre like Indo-jazz.” When asked if he had been forced to dilute his music, Kitto recalled being in Kathmandu with Louiz Banks. “They were filming Hare Rama Hare Krishna (1971). We played in the background, but I remember having asked Zeenat Aman for a dance. That, you can say, has been my only transgression,” he says, with a gentle chuckle.

Remembering the first strains of bebop he had heard on his mother’s gramophone, Kitto speaks of Duke Ellington, Dizzy Gillespie and Charlie Parker with an infectious nostalgia.

But since his definition of jazz is constrained by the limits of a few golden decades, his views discount the evolutions within the genre itself. Even if debates between jazz purists and modernists remain predictable and age-old, the hardest question to ask a jazz musician is still one that’s deceptively simple — what do we talk about when we A sitar won’t help talk about jazz? invent some new genre like Indo-jazz Rock and a hard place For years now, jazz has existed on music’s peripheries, but it has also simultaneously gained a reputation of being its most inclusive genre. As newer experiments abound, the future of Indian jazz in particular affords many hypotheses. To appraise its chances, however, it becomes essential to first look back.

Both Louiz Banks and Carlton Kitto remember fondly the Calcutta of the 1970s — the suit-

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Unimpeded maestro Ever since he first performed there in 1975, Carlton Kitto has helped Oberoi Grand draw in a crowd ashoke chakrabarty

cover watch

saturday, september 6, 2014

and-tie sophistication of ballroom dances at the Grand, the cabaret and can-can dances at Park Street’s Moulin Rouge, and finally their collaboration with the legendary saxophonist Braz Gonsalves and vocalist Pam Crain that gave birth to the Louiz Banks Brotherhood.

“Together, we revived the jazz scene in Calcutta and created a following,” says Banks. It was politics that eventually played spoilsport. After being elected to power in 1977, West Bengal’s Left Front government introduced an exorbitant entertainment tax, which almost doubled the bills of clients in restaurants and nightclubs which had until then patronised jazz bands and artists. “People refused to pay up. Fights started breaking out. The owners had no option. They had to ask us to leave,” laments Kitto.

Adding to an exodus that had already begun in the mid-’70s, jazz musicians started leaving Calcutta for destinations like Australia, the UK, the US and Canada. Louiz Banks moved to Bombay, and besides working with RD Burman, he went on to compose over 8,000 jingles in the next 15 years. Journalist Naresh Fernandes, author of Taj Mahal Foxtrot: The Story of Bombay’s Jazz Age, believes that because of its Hindi film industry, “Bombay always provided a living for many more jazz musicians than Calcutta ever did.” The careers of trumpeters Chic Chocolate and Franz Ferdinand help prove Fernandes’ point. Having played jazz at the Green’s and Taj Mahal Hotel in the ’40s, they soon came to earn their stripes as composers and music conductors in the world of Bollywood.

Fernandes also challenges the notion that Calcutta was the one city which was at the heart of India’s jazz scene. He says, “In Calcutta, jazz was limited to just one stretch — Park Street. In Bombay, the music had spread right through the city.”

According to Fernandes, it was only because jazz had survived in Calcutta through the ’70s that it became an ‘epicentre’. “Bombay,” he says, “had already moved on to rock ‘n’ roll.”

Not one to fetishise the past, the Foxtrot author insists on a pragmatic approach, “Jazz was popular in India when jazz was the world’s pop. We moved on. Kids these days are listening to what is being played in Lagos, New York and Bangkok. We have always been contemporary in our tastes.”

BL

14 10

What’s another 100 years?

Still recovering from its 375th anniversary, Chennai takes a stroll into the future with resident ‘caboodler’ Biswajit Balasubramanian

Then and now Colin D’Cruz (second from right) and his band Smoking Chutney often perform with various international artists across Goa; (below) The Chic Chocolate band performs at Bombay’s Bristol Grill in 1945 used with the

permission of the family of antonio xavier vaz

Too cool for old school cutta harked back to the ’50s and ’60s, jazz had By the ’70s, the question of contemporariness moved on.” Lal even confesses to being unimwas steadfastly haunting the world of jazz it- pressed by critics who dismiss John McLaughself. The decade began with Miles Davis releas- lin’s efforts as either gimmickry or dilution. ing Bitches Brew. With an improvisational “Jazz, by its very definition, is a hybrid, a style that seemed to borrow heavily from rock, hotchpotch. Things are always borrowed. If the album had, according to some, crossed a jazz ends up with Indian influences, so what?” sacred line. In 1973, Herbie Hancock, who had Much like Lal and McLaughlin, Louiz Banks alplayed piano as part of Davis’ second great so believes that India’s classical traditions and quintet, further challenged the world of jazz jazz are inherently compatible. Defining jazz with his funk-infused album quite simply as “freedom”, the Head Hunters. Convinced that stalwart says that after taking a jazz and Indian music had much cue from bands like Shakti, he in common, John McLaughlin has for long made “Indian jazz In Europe, no one decided to form Shakti with Zaand fusion the focus of his really questions what kir Hussain and violinist L Shanexperimentation.” jazz is or isn’t kar in 1975. Many believed that As the direction of jazz came to the jazz guitarist, who once had be reassessed in the ’70s, the mua track named after him on sic industry also witnessed unBitches Brew, was now intent on precedented growth. “There was committing professional suicide. In the end, so much music in a record store that people record sales and packed auditoria told their found it hard to find what they wanted,” says story. Jazz fusion was here to stay.

Mumbai-based guitarist Dhruv Ghanekar.

Still a teenager at the time, Ananda Lal, Pro- While jazz and fusion came to be clearly defessor of English at Kolkata’s Jadavpur Univer- marcated, more avant-garde experiments besity, remembers getting his “mind blown” by came harder to categorise. “The labelling was Herbie Hancock. “While the live music in Cal- only intended to simplify retail. Genres must be taken with a pinch of salt.” Despite his jazz education and performances, Ghanekar spurns the label. “I use the language of jazz, yes, but what I play is a mix of various genres.

Besides, I think this habit of pigeonholing music is a very Indian one. In Europe, no one really questions what jazz is or isn’t.”

Q R

ND-X _ A

Not part of the club Ghanekar, as one of Blue Frog’s founding partners, has tried hard to bring that international sensibility of liberality to Mumbai, Delhi and Pune. He does, however, seem aware of an oftrepeated complaint — there just isn’t much jazz at the club anymore. “We soon realised that we will not be able to sustain the club by hosting four jazz acts a week. The kind of jazz scene we’d imagined, just wasn’t there, and in the end, commerce took precedence.” Looking to revive jazz in Mumbai, eateries like Café Zoe and a culture club called The Bandra Base hope to soon prove Ghanekar wrong. To find a winning formula, though, Mumbaikars needn’t look far. For 12 years now, Pune’s Shisha Jazz Café has successfully served Thelonius Monk with its Turkish coffee.

Before easing into John Coltrane’s rendition of ‘My Favourite Things’, Shisha’s Persian interiors first give customers a chance to rest their backs against colourful poshtis. Amongst the jazz artists who have earned their place on the café’s walls, Miles Davis seems to have been fa-

BL

watch cover

saturday, september 6, 2014

Catching the riff Pawan Benjamin performs at Mumbai’s NCPA during last year’s Jus’ Jazz Festival; (below) Tarun Balani plays at Delhi’s Global Music Institute mohit kapil

voured most. Co-owner Mehdi Niroomand confesses, “I can’t help it. He is my favourite.”

He sounds guilty when he admits that only Bob Dylan is allowed to interfere with the café’s otherwise pure jazz soundtrack. “We haven’t diluted the music,” he pleads. “Every Thursday, we host a live jazz act. If I wanted any more gigs, you’d soon have some stupid DJ playing his rubbish house music here.”

The audience on Thursdays, says Niroomand, is almost 250-350 strong, many of whom are expats. Similar global influences are fast making Goa India’s jazz hub. As a result of foreign tourists and musicians making a beeline for Goa through the year, jazz guitarist Colin D’Cruz says that he often finds himself “performing to international audiences alongside international artists”. Part of almost 10 bands, D’Cruz argues that Goa’s numerous live music venues and its ability to nurture young talent will bolster jazz in the State, especially in comparison to the metros.

In most of the country’s metros, the dearth of venues comes coupled with another concern — are our audiences really interested?

Having started with shows in Indian cities, The Amit Chaudhuri Band has performed in several international jazz clubs and festivals.

The difference in reception, feels Chaudhuri, is stark. “Unlike Europe,” says the novelist, “people here feel it’s beneath their dignity to pay for live jazz. Half your audience will end up talking, and in venues like Blue Frog, you’ll inevitably compete with the sounds of cutlery.

This air of non-committal interest needs to change.” A distracted audience often makes

Finding home With regular live sessions, Mumbai’s Café Zoe hopes to soon revive jazz in the city bharti nair

ni travelled to the Big Apple in 2005. During the three months he spent there as a Drummers Collective student, Balani hopped from one jazz concert to another jazz club. Coupled with his education, the opportunity to watch jazz greats like Wayne Shorter left the youngster with new resolve. He wanted to bring a slice of New York back with him to New Delhi.

“The idea was simple. I wanted India to have its own Drummers Collective. I knew of so many people who were just as deserving of such an experience.”

After graduating from the Berklee School of Music, Tarun Balani and his brother Aditya returned to Delhi and set up the Global Music Institute (GMI) in 2011. Though a city campus in Lajpat Nagar already accommodates 55-75 students a year, a newer GMI campus is also coming up in Noida’s Knowledge Park. According to Balani, “At least 70 per cent of our students are exposed to and interested in studying jazz.” The drummer feels that with the genres of rock and pop having peaked a decade ago, sponsors reluctant. The Mumbai-based pro- younger musicians are increasingly relying moter Jazz Addicts usually has to struggle to on jazz to better express their artistry. “Befund its annual Jus’ Jazz festival. Co-founder cause jazz is flexible enough to accommodate Sunil Sampat explains, “Jazz is a bit like a good different genres and because of its insistence book. You have to concentrate to get some- on improvisation, I am certain that there will thing out of it. This is why audiences and spon- be many more musicians like me who will sors are sometimes hard to come by. It’s want to pursue this genre.” almost intellectual really.”

Much like GMI, Mumbai’s True School of Music is also attracting a visiting internationWatch and learn al faculty that is helping the city stay in touch Too cerebral to compete against Yo Yo Honey with a jazz that is contemporary. With modern Singh, jazz would perhaps never buy its musi- jazz now just a YouTube video away, Indian afcians a Marine Drive flat. Worse icionados have seemingly stopstill, it even finds it hard to proped counting on figures like vide the assurance of daily Carlton Kitto for their succour. bread. Adrian D’souza, for inWhen asked about the country’s stance, depends on Bollywood, jazz scene, they rattle off a list of Jazz in India pop covers and jingles to pay his names they promptly describe as has become a bills, but never passes up an op“future greats” — the Balani Schrodinger’s cat portunity to play some jazz. A brothers, pianists Sharik Hasan regular at jazz venues such as and Harmeet Manseta, saxoPune’s Shisha and Bangalore’s phonist Rhys Sebastian and voBFlat Bar, the drummer confesscalist Ishita Chakravarty. es that even though he began playing jazz in Interestingly, most of these musicians are still 1992, he became a “jazz musician” only after a long way away from hitting 40. As venues moving to the US in 1998. and audiences shrink the world over, jazz has “I spent several evenings in New York’s jazz become a Schrodinger’s cat; but buoyed by the clubs and something just happened to me. I calibre of a new generation, India doesn’t soaked an entire culture,” remembers the 42- need to write its obituary just yet. Tarun Balayear-old. Prescribing a stint in the US for all of ni, for instance, finds hope in John Coltrane.

India’s young jazz men, D’souza implores Besides naming his son after Pandit Ravi Shanthem to imagine the benefits a Californian ta- kar, the saxophonist had also given one of his bla player would accrue after a month in Be- tunes the name ‘India’. “Jazz and India, I’m nares. “That’s how you grow in New York.” convinced, will always go together very well.”

Unknowingly, fellow drummer Tarun Balani paid heed to D’Souza. Only 19 at the time, Bala- shreevatsa nevatia is a Kolkata-based writer

Q R

ND-X _ A

11 15

shoot

saturday, september 6, 2014

By the Urals Chosen to host the BRICS summit in 2015, Russia’s Bashkortostan is a land with a unique identity

F

or my second visit to the Republic of Bashkortostan, like for the first, I fly from Guwahati to Delhi to Abu Dhabi to Moscow, before landing in capital Ufa, 24 hours and a headache later. This time though, stepping into its pleasant summer air (after a cold pit-stop at Moscow), I am greeted by sunshine and friendly faces.

Nestled between the Ural mountains and the Volga river, Bashkortostan (or Bashkiria) is a federal subject of Russia. Peopled by Russians, Tatars and Bashkirians, it’s also well-connected — a key trans-Ural railway route passes through Ufa, branching out further to other industrial centres of the republic.

While oil has sparked global interest in this belt, local industries have thrived here for decades. Among the largest producers of farm products in Russia, the region’s livestock is focused on milk and meat. Beekeeping and horse farming are also crucial to the economy.

Bashkirians have been breeding horses for more than a millennium.

Come July 2015, the city of Ufa, which has an eventful history dating back to the 16th century, will add a major international summit to its list of accolades. ritu raj konwar visited Bashkortostan at the invitation of the Russian government

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12

Another cup? A Bashkirian couple offers the traditional drink kumys at a local festival

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saturday, september 6, 2014

Air-o-oat A group performs the traditional Bashkirian folk dance

A perfect 10 Children at a gymnasium in the capital city Ufa

A city in bloom Poppies paint the town red in Ufa

Picture perfect Villages tucked into woods, which cover nearly a third of the republic

Trotting along Tourists ride on a farmer’s horse cart

Colour me blue An izba, or wooden Siberian home, bathed in the last light of summer

ND-X _ A

13

cover watch

saturday, september 6, 2014

and-tie sophistication of ballroom dances at the Grand, the cabaret and can-can dances at Park Street’s Moulin Rouge, and finally their collaboration with the legendary saxophonist Braz Gonsalves and vocalist Pam Crain that gave birth to the Louiz Banks Brotherhood.

“Together, we revived the jazz scene in Calcutta and created a following,” says Banks. It was politics that eventually played spoilsport. After being elected to power in 1977, West Bengal’s Left Front government introduced an exorbitant entertainment tax, which almost doubled the bills of clients in restaurants and nightclubs which had until then patronised jazz bands and artists. “People refused to pay up. Fights started breaking out. The owners had no option. They had to ask us to leave,” laments Kitto.

Adding to an exodus that had already begun in the mid-’70s, jazz musicians started leaving Calcutta for destinations like Australia, the UK, the US and Canada. Louiz Banks moved to Bombay, and besides working with RD Burman, he went on to compose over 8,000 jingles in the next 15 years. Journalist Naresh Fernandes, author of Taj Mahal Foxtrot: The Story of Bombay’s Jazz Age, believes that because of its Hindi film industry, “Bombay always provided a living for many more jazz musicians than Calcutta ever did.” The careers of trumpeters Chic Chocolate and Franz Ferdinand help prove Fernandes’ point. Having played jazz at the Green’s and Taj Mahal Hotel in the ’40s, they soon came to earn their stripes as composers and music conductors in the world of Bollywood.

Fernandes also challenges the notion that Calcutta was the one city which was at the heart of India’s jazz scene. He says, “In Calcutta, jazz was limited to just one stretch — Park Street. In Bombay, the music had spread right through the city.”

According to Fernandes, it was only because jazz had survived in Calcutta through the ’70s that it became an ‘epicentre’. “Bombay,” he says, “had already moved on to rock ‘n’ roll.”

Not one to fetishise the past, the Foxtrot author insists on a pragmatic approach, “Jazz was popular in India when jazz was the world’s pop. We moved on. Kids these days are listening to what is being played in Lagos, New York and Bangkok. We have always been contemporary in our tastes.”

BL

14 10

What’s another 100 years?

Still recovering from its 375th anniversary, Chennai takes a stroll into the future with resident ‘caboodler’ Biswajit Balasubramanian

Then and now Colin D’Cruz (second from right) and his band Smoking Chutney often perform with various international artists across Goa; (below) The Chic Chocolate band performs at Bombay’s Bristol Grill in 1945 used with the

permission of the family of antonio xavier vaz

Too cool for old school cutta harked back to the ’50s and ’60s, jazz had By the ’70s, the question of contemporariness moved on.” Lal even confesses to being unimwas steadfastly haunting the world of jazz it- pressed by critics who dismiss John McLaughself. The decade began with Miles Davis releas- lin’s efforts as either gimmickry or dilution. ing Bitches Brew. With an improvisational “Jazz, by its very definition, is a hybrid, a style that seemed to borrow heavily from rock, hotchpotch. Things are always borrowed. If the album had, according to some, crossed a jazz ends up with Indian influences, so what?” sacred line. In 1973, Herbie Hancock, who had Much like Lal and McLaughlin, Louiz Banks alplayed piano as part of Davis’ second great so believes that India’s classical traditions and quintet, further challenged the world of jazz jazz are inherently compatible. Defining jazz with his funk-infused album quite simply as “freedom”, the Head Hunters. Convinced that stalwart says that after taking a jazz and Indian music had much cue from bands like Shakti, he in common, John McLaughlin has for long made “Indian jazz In Europe, no one decided to form Shakti with Zaand fusion the focus of his really questions what kir Hussain and violinist L Shanexperimentation.” jazz is or isn’t kar in 1975. Many believed that As the direction of jazz came to the jazz guitarist, who once had be reassessed in the ’70s, the mua track named after him on sic industry also witnessed unBitches Brew, was now intent on precedented growth. “There was committing professional suicide. In the end, so much music in a record store that people record sales and packed auditoria told their found it hard to find what they wanted,” says story. Jazz fusion was here to stay.

Mumbai-based guitarist Dhruv Ghanekar.

Still a teenager at the time, Ananda Lal, Pro- While jazz and fusion came to be clearly defessor of English at Kolkata’s Jadavpur Univer- marcated, more avant-garde experiments besity, remembers getting his “mind blown” by came harder to categorise. “The labelling was Herbie Hancock. “While the live music in Cal- only intended to simplify retail. Genres must be taken with a pinch of salt.” Despite his jazz education and performances, Ghanekar spurns the label. “I use the language of jazz, yes, but what I play is a mix of various genres.

Besides, I think this habit of pigeonholing music is a very Indian one. In Europe, no one really questions what jazz is or isn’t.”

Q R

ND-X _ A

Not part of the club Ghanekar, as one of Blue Frog’s founding partners, has tried hard to bring that international sensibility of liberality to Mumbai, Delhi and Pune. He does, however, seem aware of an oftrepeated complaint — there just isn’t much jazz at the club anymore. “We soon realised that we will not be able to sustain the club by hosting four jazz acts a week. The kind of jazz scene we’d imagined, just wasn’t there, and in the end, commerce took precedence.” Looking to revive jazz in Mumbai, eateries like Café Zoe and a culture club called The Bandra Base hope to soon prove Ghanekar wrong. To find a winning formula, though, Mumbaikars needn’t look far. For 12 years now, Pune’s Shisha Jazz Café has successfully served Thelonius Monk with its Turkish coffee.

Before easing into John Coltrane’s rendition of ‘My Favourite Things’, Shisha’s Persian interiors first give customers a chance to rest their backs against colourful poshtis. Amongst the jazz artists who have earned their place on the café’s walls, Miles Davis seems to have been fa-

BL

watch cover

saturday, september 6, 2014

Catching the riff Pawan Benjamin performs at Mumbai’s NCPA during last year’s Jus’ Jazz Festival; (below) Tarun Balani plays at Delhi’s Global Music Institute mohit kapil

voured most. Co-owner Mehdi Niroomand confesses, “I can’t help it. He is my favourite.”

He sounds guilty when he admits that only Bob Dylan is allowed to interfere with the café’s otherwise pure jazz soundtrack. “We haven’t diluted the music,” he pleads. “Every Thursday, we host a live jazz act. If I wanted any more gigs, you’d soon have some stupid DJ playing his rubbish house music here.”

The audience on Thursdays, says Niroomand, is almost 250-350 strong, many of whom are expats. Similar global influences are fast making Goa India’s jazz hub. As a result of foreign tourists and musicians making a beeline for Goa through the year, jazz guitarist Colin D’Cruz says that he often finds himself “performing to international audiences alongside international artists”. Part of almost 10 bands, D’Cruz argues that Goa’s numerous live music venues and its ability to nurture young talent will bolster jazz in the State, especially in comparison to the metros.

In most of the country’s metros, the dearth of venues comes coupled with another concern — are our audiences really interested?

Having started with shows in Indian cities, The Amit Chaudhuri Band has performed in several international jazz clubs and festivals.

The difference in reception, feels Chaudhuri, is stark. “Unlike Europe,” says the novelist, “people here feel it’s beneath their dignity to pay for live jazz. Half your audience will end up talking, and in venues like Blue Frog, you’ll inevitably compete with the sounds of cutlery.

This air of non-committal interest needs to change.” A distracted audience often makes

Finding home With regular live sessions, Mumbai’s Café Zoe hopes to soon revive jazz in the city bharti nair

ni travelled to the Big Apple in 2005. During the three months he spent there as a Drummers Collective student, Balani hopped from one jazz concert to another jazz club. Coupled with his education, the opportunity to watch jazz greats like Wayne Shorter left the youngster with new resolve. He wanted to bring a slice of New York back with him to New Delhi.

“The idea was simple. I wanted India to have its own Drummers Collective. I knew of so many people who were just as deserving of such an experience.”

After graduating from the Berklee School of Music, Tarun Balani and his brother Aditya returned to Delhi and set up the Global Music Institute (GMI) in 2011. Though a city campus in Lajpat Nagar already accommodates 55-75 students a year, a newer GMI campus is also coming up in Noida’s Knowledge Park. According to Balani, “At least 70 per cent of our students are exposed to and interested in studying jazz.” The drummer feels that with the genres of rock and pop having peaked a decade ago, sponsors reluctant. The Mumbai-based pro- younger musicians are increasingly relying moter Jazz Addicts usually has to struggle to on jazz to better express their artistry. “Befund its annual Jus’ Jazz festival. Co-founder cause jazz is flexible enough to accommodate Sunil Sampat explains, “Jazz is a bit like a good different genres and because of its insistence book. You have to concentrate to get some- on improvisation, I am certain that there will thing out of it. This is why audiences and spon- be many more musicians like me who will sors are sometimes hard to come by. It’s want to pursue this genre.” almost intellectual really.”

Much like GMI, Mumbai’s True School of Music is also attracting a visiting internationWatch and learn al faculty that is helping the city stay in touch Too cerebral to compete against Yo Yo Honey with a jazz that is contemporary. With modern Singh, jazz would perhaps never buy its musi- jazz now just a YouTube video away, Indian afcians a Marine Drive flat. Worse icionados have seemingly stopstill, it even finds it hard to proped counting on figures like vide the assurance of daily Carlton Kitto for their succour. bread. Adrian D’souza, for inWhen asked about the country’s stance, depends on Bollywood, jazz scene, they rattle off a list of Jazz in India pop covers and jingles to pay his names they promptly describe as has become a bills, but never passes up an op“future greats” — the Balani Schrodinger’s cat portunity to play some jazz. A brothers, pianists Sharik Hasan regular at jazz venues such as and Harmeet Manseta, saxoPune’s Shisha and Bangalore’s phonist Rhys Sebastian and voBFlat Bar, the drummer confesscalist Ishita Chakravarty. es that even though he began playing jazz in Interestingly, most of these musicians are still 1992, he became a “jazz musician” only after a long way away from hitting 40. As venues moving to the US in 1998. and audiences shrink the world over, jazz has “I spent several evenings in New York’s jazz become a Schrodinger’s cat; but buoyed by the clubs and something just happened to me. I calibre of a new generation, India doesn’t soaked an entire culture,” remembers the 42- need to write its obituary just yet. Tarun Balayear-old. Prescribing a stint in the US for all of ni, for instance, finds hope in John Coltrane.

India’s young jazz men, D’souza implores Besides naming his son after Pandit Ravi Shanthem to imagine the benefits a Californian ta- kar, the saxophonist had also given one of his bla player would accrue after a month in Be- tunes the name ‘India’. “Jazz and India, I’m nares. “That’s how you grow in New York.” convinced, will always go together very well.”

Unknowingly, fellow drummer Tarun Balani paid heed to D’Souza. Only 19 at the time, Bala- shreevatsa nevatia is a Kolkata-based writer

Q R

ND-X _ A

11 15

know watch

BL BL 168

saturday, september 6, 6, 2014 saturday, september 2014

A comedy of errors Uttar Pradesh chief minister Akhilesh Yadav recently accused actress and BJP politician Hema Malini of promoting ‘love jihad’ through her film Dharmatma (1975)

On the streets of Islamabad Will the Imran Khan and Tahirul Qadri ‘roadshow’ turn out to be a minor diversion in the evolution of Pakistan’s democracy?

FILM FATALE

ment Musharraf has been meted out since Sharif assumed power. Now facing charges of treason for his 1999 coup d’état and upending of the constitution, Musharraf has had to suffer indignities that no Pakistani general has ever had to: periodic appearances in court, house arrest and some stern admonitions from the bench.

A key moment in the new regime of accountability came in May 2011, when the head of the Directorate of Inter-Services Intelligence (ISI), Pakistan’s “State within the State” appeared before the national assembly, hat in hand. The US had just carried out a raid in the northern city of Abbottabad, a stone’s throw away from Pakistan’s military training academy, to eliminate the alleged mastermind of the global Islamic jihad, Osama bin Laden.

And the ISI head at the time, Lt-Gen Shuja Pasha had to don the sackcloth to admit before the country’s elected representatives that his agency had been completely unaware of bin Laden’s presence on Pakistani territory.

Pasha is reportedly now in Khan’s corner, assiduously cheering him on. Others, including former army chief Mirza Aslam Beg, claim to In the real world, Hindus, Sikhs and Chris- conscious prejudices and fears — that guidthey have definitively identified Musharraf’s tians find themselves on the same side of this need not worry: girl’ isofnot lost to ‘them’; ing hand behind‘our the siege Islamabad. battle, possibly because (let’s not mince words instead girl’ establishment, has come over to ‘us’.known Yet the‘their political once here) a majority of them view Muslims with to Rensil D’silva’s Kurbaan was of uncomabandon principle at the(2009) first whiff partifear and even greater suspicion than they view mon and seemingly revolutionary in this resan advantage, allowed not the slightest chink each other. Hindi filmmakers, however, seem gard since Kapoor played a Hindu girl to show inKareena its determination to face the IK-TQ focused offering reassurances to their Hinlitias in on North Waziristan — its ostensible ra- who falls inFormer love with a MuslimAsif (Saif Khan) challenge.

President AliAliZardari du audience while telling tionale — thealone summoning of theinter-commuarmy in aid of in the film.

Kurbaan even featured wonderurged the prime minister to stay afirm, and nity tales. caused great heartburn fully civil romantic administration conversation between girl’s Pafaboth frank houses of Parliament — withthe Khan’s Nearly 30 yearsthat after Dharmatma, YashtoChoamong quarters have grown averse the ther the boy regarding the old man’s kistanand Tehreek-e-Insaaf (PTI) members vacatpra’s Veer-Zaara (2004) narrated the story of reservations intrusive khaki presence in politics.

And when his daughter marrying ing their seatsabout — unanimously resolved not toa the Hindu Indianrather boy Veer Pratap Singh army proved quiescent to the(Shah IK-TQ Muslim.

Themob scene brought into the open the yield to the diktat.

Rukh Khan) and thequestions Pakistani Muslim girl Zaa- actual siege of Islamabad, about its intent concerns such liaisons would invitesesin When Nawaz Sharif summoned a joint ra Haayat Khannew (Preity Zinta). Couched in flut- most began to gain traction.

Indian families. then Saif’s characsion of Parliament onAnd September 2, the PTI tering was thedeclined fact thatcomment Zaara moves Armychiffons headquarters on ter turns out to be a back terrorist. you view the members trooped in. IfKhan himself to the meeting lovers are ultimately theIndia, primewhere minister’s with the chiefreof film in isolation, that’s perfectly If seemed anxious to shake off theacceptable. image of beunited.

The film a box-office staff. But newswas organisations you at ithorse in theforcontext of ing alook stalking the army, success, and it’s hard wonthat have earned thenot iretoof the Bollywood’s record in this berating thetrack prime minister for der how most for Indian demonstrators theirviewers alleged matter, youhaving will seeasked why the allegedly for writGenwould havestance, reactedreported to a mainpro-regime that er here deemed it acceptable eral Raheel Sharif’s mediation. — Imran Khan himself stream film the armycommercial had disavowed any in ineven necessary — to make ansurexThen another rumour It’s hard not to to seemed anxious which Hindu girl tent to an takeIndian over, insisting inception in thisonfilm, make faced, egging the and slow-movwonder how would shake off the image of moves to renegotiating Pakistan for her Musstead on its space the partner ingwoman tableauthe of Hindu democracy inina most Indian viewers being a stalking horse lim lover. within the political realm. the relationship for a change. self-destruct mode.

News outhave to for reacted the army The Hindu-boy-Muslim-girl There were whispers then ofli-a Hindu-Christian rolets, which haveBollywood themselves a mainstream aison was a constant in being Mani Bangladesh-type solution mances are asplayers rare asin Hindu-Musbeen active the ongocommercial film in Ratnam’s Bombay (1995), not a crafted — undoubtedly, referring lim affairs, reported but thesethat tooParliahave ing drama, which an Indian Bollywood film arrangement but dubbed to the governing in stuck a formula: Hindu–hero, ment to would demand the Hindu girl moves to from Tamil, Shaad Ali’s Jhoom Ba-2007 and that country between January the Christian–heroine.

Think Bobby resignation of Pakistan’s two most powerful Pakistan for her rabar Jhoom (2007), Sanjay elections of December 2008,Leela where the army’s (1973), Julie (1975), Ankhiyon ke Jhamen in uniform: the chief of staff and the ISI Muslim lover Bhansali’s Saawariya (2007), Haguiding hand was barely concealed.

That fol- director-general. rokon Se (1978) or, more recently, bib Ishaqzaade (2012) consensus, lowedFaisal’s a breakdown of political Ajabwas Prem Ki Ghazab That rumour quickly dispelled.Kahaani Speakand muchparty everyand fictitious withpretty the ruling opposition fighting ers in the joint (2009), and Ek sittingCocktail seemed(2012) focused more Hindu-Muslim romance thatof a caretaker on upholding on the streets over the character Main Ekk Tu (2012).of electoral theAur fundamentals comes to mind. — required under the consti- democracy, administration It would be easy to pretend that this trend is rather than disabusing the army Not for moment is this column suggestitution — toaoversee elections in January 2007. aofmere coincidence, or to cite seems exceptions its political ambitions.

A deal to be to in ngPolitics that the of is these films dispensaare com- counter indirectors Bangladesh a bipolar the argument made, orpart to acthe works, which wouldbeing preserve some of munal.

Evidently though, playing it cuse tion, where one player canthey makeare a difference. columnists of the a cynical over-analysis of the autonomy that army fears has eroded safe by disgruntlement catering to the overt or covert, Khan’s did not rise to conthe innocent entertainment. be naïve or rapidly since Musharraf Let’s lost not power.

In the scious or subconscious, or real pa- lie same level even in termsperceived of the politics of the ourselves, please. Bollywood its slowtoevolution of Pakistan’s democracy,and where triarchal-communalism of the 2013 majority street. He was placed third in elec- viewers would do well to introspect the every institution — the judiciary, about the unicommunity membersally in the audience.

Clearly, tions, and newfound Qadri has never been patriarchal-communalism evident in these formed services and the elected bodies — is most Hindi filmmakers a Muslima contender for electoral consider legitimacy, save his ‘coincidences’.

The last thing this country competing zealously to establish competitive boy-Hindu-girl romance hotupper to handle.

2002 nomination to a seattoo in the house needs is forthe its IK-TQ film industries unwittingly advantage, ‘roadshow’to may well turn When theyMusharraf, do portray ro- support

by Pervez theinter-community last man to rule Pabigotry. out to beoff-screen a minor diversion. mances, opt for subtle populism reassurkistan inthey military uniform. mm muralidharan vetticad is the author of The Adventures sukumar is a fellow at the Indian ingA specific communal — and within even anna groundviewers for unhappiness t@annavetticad an Intrepid Film Critic Institute of Advanced Study, Shimla non-communal weighed bytreatsub- of the khaki ranks ones is perhaps thedown rough

‘Love jihad’ and Bollywood

Most inter-community romances in Hindi cinema feature a Hindu man with a woman from a minority community. Is this a coincidence? Or closet patriarchal-communalism at work?

anna mm vetticad Green revolution?

Imran Khan, chairman of the opposition party Pakistan Tehreek-e-Insaf (PTI), at the Revolution March in Islamabad last week reuters/akhtar soomro

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e’s not known for making cinematic references. The past month, though, has been an exception for Uttar Pradesh chief minister, Akhilesh Yadav. Taking a potshot at the Sangh Parivar’s ‘love jihad’ campaign, Yadav asked at a public function whether Bharatiya vents were hurtling yet Janata again Partoty (BJP) MP and proof Bollywood actress Hema Maliwards that democratic politics ni was promoting through the in Pakistan‘love is itsjihad’ own worst enemy.

Indian-Afghan romance in her filmasDharmatFor roughly a fortnight, former ma (1975). icon Imran Khan and the expatriate cricketing Is ‘loveentrepreneur jihad’ actuallyTahirul happening?

Let’s set religious Qadri (referred aside that question for the moment examto in media shorthand as the IK-TQ to tandem) ine choice of film. Prime Statelaid Yadav’s siege to misplaced Pakistan’s national capital, ments from the Sangh and from Minister Nawaz Sharif Parivar floundered for a BJP releaders, in particular, definehad ‘love as a sponse. The demonstrators onejihad’ demand, conspiracy lure Hindu women by seemingly to non-negotiable: that to theIslam prime getting Muslim to feign them. In minister, electedmen in May 2013love withfor a comfortDharmatma though, it was the step man down (playedand by able parliamentary majority, Feroz was a Hindu. hand Khan) over towho a caretaker administration that Yadav would be hard-pressed to find the reKhan would lead. verse in any Bollywood film.

For Thathappening demand, sharply at odds with Khan’s the truth is, most inter-community image as one who fictional played the game hard but romances Hindi cinema have fair, wouldinhave been laughed outfeatured of court,a Hindu mannurtured with a woman from a minority were it not by hidden wellsprings of community.

Is this a coincidence or establishcloset pasupport. And while the political triarchal-communalism at work? ment mulled over its best response to the efThe answer from life. Those frontery, the comes crowds thereal IK-TQ duo who had speak of ‘love jihad’increasingly always speak of Hindu assembled became restive, spillwomen cases,sensitive Christian and Sikh ing over (in intosome the most precincts of women) beingcapital. drawn They to Muslim Why the national came men. perilously isn’t reversal regarded close atogender the security perimeter of as theequally prime worrisome?

Primarilyraided because our society’s minister’s residence, theofstudios of the deeply patriarchal notions of identity and reliState-owned broadcaster and occupied the gion, bride ‘leaves’ her family and — in streetwhere whereaParliament is situated. thePakistan’s case of a mixed marriage — even her Supreme Court weighed in comwith munity, to adopt her husband’s name, faith sharp strictures about the thoroughfare, and people.

The resultantpolitical loss of aaspirations woman to where all the country’s another especially for a muchwere nowreligious focused,group, being blockaded a sechated wounds community For tarian one, cause.

And the Nawaz Sharif ego. himself people countoff thethe numbers their fold seemedwho to shake sense ofindisorientatoo, a loss because andGeneral her womb tionittomeans call Pakistan’s armyshe chief, Ra(for is all woman is worth to some peoheelthat Sharif, foraconsultations. ple) arearmy automatically assumed belong The was already in placetotonow defend the to the ‘other’. prevailing proprietorial atcapital underWith a constitutional provision intitudes, choose a partner voked ina woman’s July, wellability beforeto the IM-TQ ‘roadis considered questionable; her rightover to show’.

Despite broad political consensus choose her partner or her religion is ignored. the military operations against extremist mi-

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Jazz just changed its tune

Lives on the line In this photograph taken on May 23, 2009, internally displaced Sri Lankans wait behind barbed wire during a visit by United Nations Secretary-General Ban Ki-moon afp/joe klamari

The story of jazz in India is of devout old-timers and innovative newcomers. It is a tough world to survive in, but it is here to stay and swing

Who started C the fire?

arlton Kitto still draws in a crowd. It the protagonist to uncover the story of jazz in has been 39 years since he first India. Beaming from the attention, Kitto finalplayed at Kolkata’s Oberoi Grand. ly plugs in his guitar. Though slouched beAs the 71-year-old jazz guitarist cause of a spinal injury, the next two hours takes stage at the luxury hotel’s Chowringhee help prove that neither his fingers nor his spirBar, a table of three holler — “We’ve come here it have been impeded.

At home in his cramped two-room flat, Kitto only for you.” A middle-aged woman walks up to him, “You taught my nephew how to play. loses his toupee and some of his inhibitions.

He still thinks you are god,” she says. Kitto is He rails against contemporary musicians who read sheet music. play jazz shy, andby after jogging his he The rememfanned politicians on memory, both sides. war can’t What is striking is the“You role can’t that Buddhist bers, “He was one of my this A-B-Cinnonsense.”

Authentic jazz,and he and its various phases setbest the students, stage for but the with monks played the war against the LTTE doesn’t he play some kind through of Bangla last existed in thelike ’60s and ’70s.

“After book, which is a story viewed the rock eyes says, the use that politicians Mahinda Rajapaknow?”

The disapproval, is participaephemer- that things like rock itcrept in.early, A siof various protagonists however, who were sa have made offusion them. and Perhaps is too help some new nor genre Inal. younger man has begun Findnts,A observers or victims, notdiscussing the leaders or tar butwon’t neither theinvent defeated Tamils thelike victoWhenseem askedtoifbe hethinking had been to ing Carlton, documentary thatcaught casts Kitto as do-jazz.” public men,a but ordinary folk up by rious Sinhalas inforced terms of his music,The Kitto relationship recalled beingbetween in Kaththe history of their times. This is clearly not a dilute reconciliation. with Louiz Banks. “Theyis, were quickie travelogue of an Indian journalist, but mandu Buddhism and the government as a filming nationHare tells Krishna Wemore played in the a longer meditation based on repeated visits Hare alist Rama politician the(1971). writer, akin to I remember having asked and a deep desire to lay bare the anatomy of background, that “betweenbut the Vatican and Catholicism, or Zeenat Amanbetween for a dance.

That, you can has the beast that the civil war has Saudi Arabia andsay, Islam.” been my only transgression,” says, awith wrought, or to put it in his own Subramanian has he drawn fasci-a gentle chuckle. words, “in the spirit of a forennating portrait of the role the Remembering first bebop he sics gumshoe visiting an arson faith the plays in strains the life of and politics had heard onofhis mother’s gramophone, Kitto site to examine the ashes and the island through his converThe peculiarly speaks Ellington, Gillespie and guess at how the fire caught and sations withDizzy Baddegama Samilitant kind of of Duke Charlie withaan infectious spread so cataclysmically, but al- Buddhism that mitha, politician andnostalgia. head of the SriParker But since definition jazz isViharaya, constrained so to see if any embers reSripada of Chaitya and Lankans practise has histhe byown the limits another of a few golden decades, hisand views mained to ignite the blaze all nationalist monk arprovided its discount thechaeologist, evolutions within genre it-a over again.”

OmalpetheSobitha, leavening to self. Even if debates jazz purists and The otherwise layered story is founderbetween of the Jathika Hela Uruthe tragedy modernists predictable told with a pithy precision maya (JHU), aremain party of Buddhist and age-old, the hardest queswhich is helped by his construcmonks.

While Buddhist nationaltion to ask against a jazz musician is still tion of a three-cornered matrix ist fervour the Hindu Taone that’s deceptively simple — of the LTTE, Jaffna and the Buddmils is understandable in the wethe talk about when we hist faith through which to tell the A tale.

Allwon’t context civildo war, chauvinist nature sitar help of thewhat talkinabout three are vital to the story without Jaffna’s ge-some of new Buddhism Sri jazz?

Lanka today is well invent ographical location and the history genre of its Tabrought out by Subramanian’s descriptions of like Indo-jazz andbetween a hard place mils, there would have been no LTTE. But the tensionsRock stoked the Buddhists without the frightening totalitarianism of the and Muslims.For years now, jazz has existed on music’s has alLTTE, the Sri Lankan war would not have been The tragedy of Sriperipheries, Lanka has but notitended. simultaneously gainednot a repuas vicious as it turned out to be. The peculiarly There are toosomany “disappeared”— just ofwho being itscaptured, most inclusive genre.

As militant kind of Buddhism that the Sri Lank- tation the LTTE were but Sinhalas who abound, of Inans practise has provided its own leavening to newer opposeexperiments the Rajapaksa familythe andfuture journalists dian intruthfully. particular There affordsismany the tragedy. who jazz wrote little hypothesin this acTotoappraise its the chances, however, it People in India are familiar with the Tigers es. count suggest that future will not be as essential to first back. and with Jaffna, both of which have been re- becomes bleak as the past. There is alook deep gulf between Louiz Banksand andSinhala Carltontriumphalism, Kitto rememported on in great detail in the past years. But theBoth Tamil despair Calcuttanot of the Sri 1970s — thepolitsuitSubramanian’s more disturbing portrait is of ber andfondly no one,the especially Lankan Sri Lankan Buddhism, which seems to have ical leadership, is making an effort to bridge it. mutated because of the war into a faith that Unimpeded maestro Ever since he first performed manoj joshiCarlton is a Distinguished Fellow at the Observer does not have much in common with, say, the there in 1975, Kitto has helped Oberoi Grand chakrabarty draw in a Foundation, crowd ashokeDelhi Research Buddhism of a Dalai Lama.

A layered narrative and meditation on the many forces that tore Sri Lanka apart

T This Divided Island Stories from the Sri Lankan War Samanth Subramanian Penguin Non-fiction ₹499

he Sri Lankan civil war has been one of the great tragedies of our times. It has touched India directly in the deaths of 1,200-odd Indian soldiers, more than three times that number were injured in the course of our unfortunate intervention as peacekeepers during 1987-90, and in the assassination of former Prime Minister Rajiv Gandhi in 1991.

There have been many other victims in this war — Tamils killed in the race riots of the early 1980s, Sinhala civilians and soldiers killed by the Liberation Tigers of Tamil Eelam — but, undoubtedly, the greatest suffering has been borne by the Sri Lankan Tamils. They have had to suffer at the hands of their alleged protectors, the LTTE, as well as the overwhelmingly Sinhala army of Sri Lanka.

The portrait of modern Sri Lanka that Subramanian has sketched is not flattering, the consequences of the long war have transformed the nation for the worse. There is a coarseness and violence in the current discourse on the island, which even today has some of the highest living standards in SAARC. There was a time when the Sri Lankans were noted for their easy-going ways, but no longer.

As for India, once friend of the Tamils, there is indifference, brought on by what the LTTE wrought on the Indian Peace Keeping Force (IPKF) and Rajiv Gandhi. Numerous Indians believe that the Sri Lankan parties brought it on themselves. The 1987 India-Sri Lanka Accord opened up the possibility of a unified Tamilmajority northern and eastern province. But the distaste for India was so great, not just in the LTTE but also the Sri Lankan government headed by President R Premadasa, that they actually combined forces to undermine the IPKF mission.

Subramanian tells the story of this terrible period, whose roots go back to the history of modern Sri Lanka and its racial antagonisms,

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PAPERWALLAH

Viewing a writer’s life Writing is an act of mystery and, perhaps, best left undescribed dipankar

V

irginia Woolf greets you at the door.

Sepia-tinted, larger than life, wrapped luxuriously in fur. Like a good janice pariat hostess, she seems indiscriminately pleased to see everyone. Her face, delicate, emotive, carries a small, ceaseless smile. In the image, taken by an unknown photographer in 1937, she is 55. This summer, London’s National Portrait Gallery has been ambitious, not in terms of size — for the exhibition unfolds only in three rooms — but subject. ‘Virginia Woolf: Art, Life and Vision’ hangs on an archway above her head. It promises much, and I try to push away my ambivalence — the kind I always feel before an encounter with a visual project attempting to portray a writer’s life.

Under her gaze, I slip inside, and wonder what this might add to my understanding of her and her work.

As it so happened, not much.

Which is not to say the exhibition was inSHOVON CHOWDHURY is chief Truthdigger and author competently orchestrated. Much care had of The Competent Authority been taken to source documentation — photographs of people closest to the author, family, n news welcomed by both Runa Laila servants, lunch. Energy breaks will them TS Eliot player.” To increase leadership effi- rejected. “We thought this was an openand friends (among and Grameen Bank, BCCI has an- and take place after every 20 Bloomsbury circiency, a schedule has been made and-shut case,” said the BCCI, “As far back as Henry James), the famed nounced a 15-Test series against Ban- cleovers.

Bowlers taking — Duncan Fletcher will be in April, a panel was set up with neutral ob(also known as posh, neurotic, ‘intellectual charge from 10am to 2pm, MS server Ravi Shastri and a relative of BCCI gladesh. “India’s overseas record has aristocrats’), more than three town and country her various Dhoni till 6pm and Ravi Shas- president Shivlal Yadav. Given the need for been a matter of concern,” said a BCCI homes, wickets an in-of her childhood (mostrare in glimpses spokesman, “Steps had to be taken to arrest ly, nings will be droptri will tackle the night shift. unbiased investigation, a former director it seemed, spent playing cricket). Parts of In related news, former of CBI was also included. This elite panel the decline. We have also requested the theped from show eventhe readnext like a racy Harlequin novel BCCI chief N Srinivasan has thoroughly examined the evidence and Ministry of External Affairs to revoke — Woolf’s match, and faceifpesecret, short-lived, day-long enfailed in his bid to be formal- concluded that there was no wrongdoing Anushka Sharma’s passport. Sushmaji was gagement nalties of up to Lytton 50 to writer Strachey, her brief very supportive, although due to surveil- flirtation per cent match ly reinstated as BCCI chief. He by anybody related to any of us. We fail to withofher brother-in-law Clive Bell, lance devices she refused to talk. But she herfees.

Wicketkeeper-caphad appealed to the Su- understand the need for further enquiry.” doting adoration of the aristocrat Vita did smile and raise her hand in blessing.” Sackville-West. tain MS Dhoni will be preme Court, citing Meanwhile, the International Cricket Disproportionately, much had “acute pain in fin- Council declared its full support for the Stringent conditions have been laid been provided with small assistmade of heraexperience of war-torn Londown for the series. All right arm seam bow- don ant wicketkeeper,given who it’s won’t gers from exces- BCCI. “Under the inspirational leadership (unsurprising, the be World War I lers will be bowling left arm. Field restric- centenary), counted in the playing XI. “We’ll be selecsive remote of my colleague N Srinivasan, I’m confident while very little is explored of tions will remain in place through each Woolf’s ting one small pacifism, batsman,”anti-imperialism, said a source in control usage”. BCCI will take Indian cricket to new anti-war match, except for a 15-minute period before or the “Together they will count one His appeal was heights,” said N Srinivasan, chairman, ICC. her team, experience of mental illness thatasevenLady with a room A portrait of Virginia Woolf by her sister Vanessa Bell national trust images tually led to her taking her own life in 1951.

Within theasking National Gallery’s himPortrait to resign, and prishe tine walls, something was amiss.

Her Litkeeps saying no. But hevoice. cannot erally, because an audio resistthere’s the willscarcely of the people.

In ters, future visual portrayals of a rated that’s less tomb-like. recording ofthis hercase, in existence loathed to contemporary writer’s life might be enlivened 3,000 or(she 4,000 people, Yet, beyond innovative and interactive give press interviews). alsoof the180 voice of an by the abundance of digital material. ‘The Col- shows, the question remains: does it bring us which in aAnd nation million author as written text.

Of the intimacy forged lected Emails?’ is a very significant number.” any closer to the author? Is that even achieved when we open“What a book,about flip itsthe pages, markon its assault Well, why not? by excavating their lives and uncovering expewords. Despite theI proliferation biopics PTV?” ask. “That alsoofwent very— At Emory University’s Shatten Gallery, in Ge- riences that may have shaped their stories?

Sylvia, Iris, Capote (what’s this “200-300 penchant orgia, US, for instance, you may snoop Perhaps this mad drive to reveal — creative well,” says the with General, drive away mosquitoes. even —prohe police constable is muttering for one-name titles?)

— exhibitions rarer. through Salman people representing theare people Rushdie’s computer.

For all to writing courses, literaryThey festivals springs a sweet dish withatjaggery. under his breath as he tries to Writers’ livesprotested don’t always make Sharif’s for greatmiscine- the physical Nawaz memorabilia — hand-drawn cov- vided from the fact thatmade writing, its mostNow powerful make aChildren, lachchaBono’s paratha.

Hisfor ef-The ourand SP has said Rampur district ma, less so for gallery displays. as farand as I ers for Midnight’s rule by stealing 20 Few, cameras lyrics vibrant, is inherently anshould act of not mystery. fall persists behind,what so Joshua here I Rothman, am, forts are not very succan recall, have been attempted.

I The Army beating up reporters.

Ground Beneath Her Feet — the fo- And that there cessful. He cus spits on exhibit the lachcha left wondering whether visual also did its duty and beat up reof the is something archives editormaking for The New Yorker,paratha. calls ‘the artAfter this, I have to getimagground, taking care to spit treatments of a writer’s are channels. porters fromlifeother intangible: 18 gigabytes of re- ist’s sense of privacy’.

If life, as Woolf interrupt the Pakistani otherwise All away from trieved the buffalo, inevitably bound fail. busy Or leave Since to we’re protecting PTV digital data. Read first ined, was best anddiesel, most intensely experienced Writers’ lives don’t general while he is watchwhich is watching will not function an attendee from vaguely dissatisfied. private channels, we may drafts him and correspondence when touched byOut inexplicability, so it is with always make for great ing Dr Strangelove. “It’s my during cut.” us. This affectionately.about his work, check his ‘stick- writing. Or any art Perhaps. If the nottemplate, be able tolike do this much when the formpower that moves cinema, less so for favourite movie,” he says, “If I wanted toYou’re be a cook, “What about dess- by one, remains unchanged. masses attack Row Nawaz Sharif’s ies’. privy to the author’s core of secrecy, she believed, was preserved gallery displays “especially the ending.” I apolask.— “Don’t would I havecreative paid soprocess much in context, right shielding it from ert?” upon row of house, dry evidence of thesuggested by as has been pryingI eyes others’ and ogise for disturbing him, but I ask,” he says, “One of- most to be a policeman?”

‘Literary Life’ — letters, diary pagImran-bhai.” down he to asks, the games he played our own. Because when it comes to our have a job to do. My job is to ask wiping the sweat from his from writing. abstract and spiritual ficerintuitions, has beenfrom sus-where es, endless first editions.

It “Whither democracy?”

I ask, during breaks him questions, even though he pended already.

He what forehead. “Those Saharanneedn’t be so. worried.

In 2012, the“Definitely British it will (Perhaps, in time, his Facebook art is born, looking too closely changes is a non-vegetarian and cannot pur boys have unnecessagot the gulab Library organised the ambitious and excellent wither,” says the General, “If the posts and Twitter timeline will be archived.) At we feel, robs it of radiance.

Therejamuns, is reward in be trusted. “How are the negobut he forgot to get rilyUniversity made life of difficult for ‘Writing Britain: Wastelands to Wonderlands’, elected government does not fall the Texas, Austin, the ‘born digi- leaving certain things undescribed, unspecitiations with Nawaz Sharif gothe ice cream.”Woolf: Art, Life everyone. understand exploring literature inspired by landscape

by Tuesday, Imran-bhai has said tal’ literary Iremains of Norman Mailer in- fied, and unknown.

‘Virginia ing?” I ask. “Negotiations are buffalodevoid stamps standards need toothers, be raised,three laptops and Vision’ was The around the he British Isles.his Brought by clude, will hold breath alive and reamong curiously of on Virginia going well,” says the General, theI have ground.

Thewould constable but why so much?

When Azamji’s sound recordings, videos, letters, photofuse to have his vegetables.

But documenting correspondence and literary Woolf. She, a feeling, be immen“A simple pattern has been buffaloes the border from Punjab, up his efforts. I smile at the man, sagraphs, maps, songwelyrics and drawings, as drafts. are hoping it will not Thecrossed Susan Sontag Papers, at the Univer- speeds sely pleased. established. We keep theyofmade garma-garam rotis and lit fires well as manuscripts come and to printed that.” editions. sity California Los Angeles, contain 17,198 lute the buffalo and leave.

Which persuades me to think that while peo- emails. Add to this a wealth of visual and au- janice pariat’s novel Seahorse will be published in The Investigator is a fortnightly round-up of all things droll and newsy.the All passing views areofpersonal. t@shovonc ple may mourn the ageReally of let-personal dio recordings and an exhibition might be cu- November t@janicepariat

BCCI ANNOUNCES 15TEST SERIES AGAINST BANGLADESH!

I

WILL CRUSH DEMOCRACY

BY TUESDAY, SAYS PAK ARMY!

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U.P. POLICE TO MAKE LACHCHA PARATHA!

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saturday, september 6, 6, 2014 saturday, september 2014

Paddle shift Kayaking in Goa’s LIGHTHOUSE riverine backwaters raquel amaral

Stranger at the next table You are not talking about anything private; maybe you are talking about a film, or a friend’s divorce. Will the presence of a stranger affect the content and tone of your conversation?

The dandy lion We dress up for a social gathering and then spend all our time there behaving like the person we’d like others to believe we are shutterstock

because someone you had never met before and would never meet again was listening?

Does the approval or admiration of strangers matter to you?

I reached middle age recently — it is a mental state more than an age, I know, but I got there anyway — and got down to thinking about all the things I didn’t like about myself.

At 20, I had been an obnoxious, insufferable, arrogant fool, but I wouldn’t dislike that guy so much if I hadn’t changed in many ways, so that’s okay. But there is one quality I still have and don’t like and would love to discard: the anxiety about how other people perceive me.

This damn anxiety is common to us all; it’s probably the most prominent part of the hun a cool and breezy July afternoon, the little joys, happy to gaze out at the wild where everyone really know, andtogreet, man es condition.

We dress up does before going as a light drizzle blurs my rear- beauty that surrounds me. else.comb Afterour her daily shopping socialeveryone gatherings, hair, apply make of view mirror, I park my bike on the Raquel and Roberto, my hosts at Cancio’s veggies and fish at the morning up orfresh shave or suchlike, preen preen preenmarket, — shores of north Goa’s backwaters House, gave up their hospitality jobs in purwe walk pastall theour village stopping and then spend timechurch, at these gather-midand jump into the speedboat. I whizz past the suit of their dream: to show people the ‘real’ for person the carols rains have ings conversation behaving like the we’dand like others few signs of civilisation, find a safe harbour, Goa. They opened up their ancestral home, started theEverything same moment.

Weorrun to believe weatare. we say do to in take lower a kayak into the waters, and off I go. By dating back at least 500 years, to travellers like shelter, as I tell Raquel so lucky of to live public is, at some level, for theshe’s consumption the time I’m rowing into the pristine open ex- me in search of Goa’s best-kept secrets. Thanks here.

Far we ahead, a cemetery stretches before others.

When are truly ourselves, whatever panse, the drizzle has turned into a torrential to them, I find myself jumping into an irrigaus,ifits entrance in Portuguese that is, such a thing carrying is even possible, it is be- the downpour, soaking me — body and soul — just tion well in the fields on a Sunday afternoon — aiz makafrom faleathe tuka — todayand me, tocausemessage we are fatigued pretence, as I had hoped. There are mangroves on either an old monsoon tradition that is part of the morrow let our guard you. down. side, and no one but eagles and peacocks for Feast of Sao Joao, celebrated with much zeal So my middle-age resolution, which I have shivya nath a freelance writer; she blogs at I company. I find my way to the Aldona river across Goan villages. On rainy afternoons, Rathe rest of my lifeisto break repeatedly, is that flowing west and, thoughfor to welcome kitchen fills withsupremely, the mouth-watering have a coffee shopas question you. You me, to be comfortable in my own skin. I don’t bodyquel’s else.

Animals, are wantthe-shooting-star.com the temporarily to reveal aroma of Goan curries. (Months later, I would are ominous sitting in clouds a café with a friend,part talking want to care about what others think of me. themselves.” aabout golden In the of her food, cooked suchanilove, in thissunset. and that, andrhythmic a strangerpatter comesof the (If dream And if I am in a café chatting with a friend, I I may add to this, it could bewith said that rain andat my own rowing, hear racing restaurants Mumbai and sits the next table. IItcan could bemy anydon’t want that conversation to be affected by malsfancy are Buddhist.

Theyinare always that livingclaim in to its love for Goa —aaway serve authentic Goan cuisine.)

With Roberto,aIstranger at the next table. Even if my friend is one: heartbeat a gorgeousproclaim girl, a Bollywood celebrity, the moment.

They are mindful.

I know people from the beaches revelling crowds.who go visit remaining with an a imaginary friend. gym-toned hunk.

Thereand is atheir moment’s pause, toAldona’s Vipassanaonly courses to attainbakery just this Like most hadinalways categorised traditional earthen oven,ago, where Josethe Carlos while you and yourpeople, friend Itake the presence quality.

I did once, many years and for around Goanew as aperson, sea-and-sand winter getaway.

But last D’Silva hasofbaked the most delicious breads in he StephenGetting Fry video.

The reason people of this and then you continue last eight days the 10-day course, I basically a bicycle two-wheeler monsoon, looking a place to slow these partssex. since 1964. linking to it isorthat Robin Wiltalking.

But youwhile are aware thatfor this stranger, thought about But thePost first9pm, mealwhen I had the af- rest have beenRent travel, stumbled upon theyou Amarals’ of course, the village is already tucked was in, the I join liams a (aboutrecently, ₹100-300 to of get killed himself andper thisday) is one who is alone,I can hear every word say. YouGoanter the at an Italian restaurant, Portuguese (aka Cancio’s friend urakh, a local monsoon around, especially in the rains. I where he is at his funniest. and your friend home are not talking about any- best I’ve had in my life.for The restaurant had the YouTube clips a sleepy village about a nothing to do with brew that is feni’s lighter, more also found it incredibly sad. In the first part of thingHouse), private;inmaybe youlittle are talking it. My 10 days of focussing Aldona.

It changed everycousin, at Andron, a interview, Stay Williams speaks to Parkinson, new called film you saw, or a book you read, or a on the senses werepalatable responsible.

My taste buds this Stay with down.

Roberto thing I thought knew about of the took in every damn quirky neighbourhood house Inand theRaquel secondat friend’s divorce.

Will I the presence nuance of the dish I ate.restauI and brings the Women lounge about rant run by the eccentric ex-navy Goa.at the next table affect the content Cancio’s an authentic part, Fry House joins for Williams, and stranger was in the moment — though I in their nightgowns, Deep in the hinterlands, Aldosailorway Anthony.

Goanexpect experience.

Asktothem to you’d this half be mainand tone of your conversation? suppose in a different from exchanging the na’s timeless streets are adorned Driving along the verdant intelytake about and the book a bear having a meal, which youFry kayaking along thehe’s village gossip withis aabandoned riors, feeling the wind in my hair, here YouTube clipPortuguese floating around on probably just goes promoting.

But Williams keeps through the riverine backwaters of Aldona houses and old sur- to a lot routine motions Goa fills me with aEverything sense of liberthe interwebs thatchurches, has been linked interrupting him, wisecracking programmed (₹1,200-2,500, inclusive of we say or rounded by endless stretches of and Ste- into it. Also, bears are ation.

When the clouds recently.

It features Robin Williams constantly, letting Fry comvegetarian, breakfast; not cancioshouse.webs.com). do inerupt, publicI is, at paddies with and undiscovered sometimes continue to drive phenrice Fry chatting Michael Parkinson. In which puts a limit plete many of his thoughts. It’s on prandial some level,orfor the backwaters.

A village where the joy of lie in And the open feeling the raindrops on of it, Fry,riverine who had just written a book on bears, almost pleasure. this fields, is precisely Eat like at some level he is consumption driving, and just the rains my skin.

Other times, I take shelter under the comments onwalking how animals aresoaking differentinfrom saying, “Look at me.

I’mfood hereattoo. the kind of pointless parenthetiTry traditional Goan others is not“When mine alone.

In the I meet the tin roof ofthat a shop withand fellow bikers and cyhumans: you wake upafternoons, in the morning, I’m so funny.

Don’t you love me?” cal digression humans, Andron in Nachinola village folk say, in their carpets of arice paddy, clists,orcasually discussing a bear does not ‘Oh god, I was very bad tillFry is graceful about this, and not bears treefrogs, indulge the in affairs of the day.

(09421194482, 09404893482), the landI’m in their colourful ponchos, The whiff of curries fills sleepy neighbourbear ing yesterday. guilty.’

They don’t feelhumeven jokes about Williams’s ‘lotoo much.)

Bhatti Village in Nerul alongpossess cheerful tunes.

Drivinggenaround Fry’s hoods; men sit by the guiltyming that they organs of sexual gorrhoea’, and Williams has theby point, I suppose, wasside thatof the road, fishing (09822184103), and Nostalgia the village on myfeel scooter, often stopped the overflowing backwaters; and women eration.

They don’t theyI’mshould wear by wit to laugh at himself.

Youatsense hissouth selfwhatin sets humans apart from other creatures Chef Fernando Raia in women, umbrellas flying the sky, to lounge their in nightgowns, clothes.

They their just spend 100 per centinto of every and also his sadness.

(This inis that we areabout social in animals such a way exchangthat awareness here, Goa (0832-2777054). hitch a ridehour to the ing village of Goa’s minute of every of bustling every dayvillage being amarket. bear. By terview was recorded in 2002.) I think Wilwe allow other gossip. people Many to define our popular self-im- restime Ispends reach home, the bread has artaurants remain monsoon And athe treefrog all its time beingman a treeliams knew, astipmost comedians must, that age. We care too much shut aboutbecause what they think is — rain or shine — with freshly ‘off-season’, but small eateries run frog. rived We spend a lot of time trying to be baked, some- hothumour is an anaesthetic.

That’s it is. And of us.considered This is absurd.

Drive past the rice all paddies to an paothe(local by local families serve up delicious food and bodyout-of-the-oven else. You know,Goan tryingpoi to and be like there must be times when it isn’t old river bridge at enough. the edge of breads) to relish with melted butter on stories of bygone stranger at thedays. next table. Would you person next door, the person on television, therainy he Aldona. On any given monsoon evenings.

It takes we're me a trying few days of somebeing here speak Onedifferently, morning, orI say joindifferent Raquel things, for a walk t@amitvarma person in the movies... to be afternoon, you’ll find men fishing to slip into Goa’s famously infectious susegad through the neighbourhood, which confirms in the backwaters. mode, feeling content with life, appreciating my suspicion that Aldona is one of those plac-

Earth and water Away from the beaches and anyone you might know, in the sleepy village of Aldona, in north Goa, when it rains it pours

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Amit Varma is a novelist. He blogs at indiauncut.com

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Handloom 2.0 Small-town rites

The travelling circus that is an out-of-town The more thelabels town,and the better Re-imaginedwedding. and reinvented by obscure new design e-commerce sites, the potential of the humble fabric is now almost at full stretch

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ost in Lado Sarai — yet another urban village in Delhi where change and fashion studios have found a new address — epiphany can be a while coming. But when I meet Gaurav Jai Gupta, a designer and trained weaver known for his ‘engineered’ saris and for weaving stainless steel into textiles, and he says, “All I’ve really done is made handloom edgy” — it finally hits home. Handloom is making a comeback. Reclaiming its shelf-space. But not in ways that it always has. Re-imagined and reinvented by new design labels and e-commerce sites, the potential of the fabric is almost at full stretch.

Over the years, handloom has come to occupy a space so decidedly left of centre that few have tried to redeem it or experiment with it radically. Among those who tried — and succeeded — in the mainstream fashion firmament are Abraham & Thakore, Rajesh Pratap Singh and Neeru Kumar. The not-for-profit sector, which has also been fighting the cause of handloom for years and struggling to give weavers a life of dignity, has chosen to focus, perhaps wisely, on preserving and protecting traditional weaves and motifs. Rarely, if ever, straying from the norm. Either way, handloom has long suffered from a nylon-lycra-synthetic-complex.

Notable exception As the nadaswaram hits its first few notes, you arrive at a smalltown wedding like a minor celebrity gn rao

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Organic growth An ensemble by Daniel Syiem, who works with Khasi weaves such as Ryndia and Thoh Rew Stem afp

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ver the years, I have cultivated a mildly worrying addiction to advice columns. It’s not the advice itself that interests me, but the problems. Far removed from my own life, each dilemma is a little soap opera scripted in less than 100 words. There is a strange comfort in reading these internet stangers’ problems.

They are like aquarium fish in the middle of a busy shopping mall — exotic, sad, untouchable. What to do with ex-step-sons-in-law, neighbours who have noisy sex, the dynamics of pet ownership…

The one thing guaranteed to hurt feelings and cause confusion all around seems to be weddings. Specifically, the destination wedding, which involves transporting entire wedding parties to fairytale settings. Reading these problems I feel a sense of great relief that I live in India, where a destination wedding involves, more often than not, a small town, a fairly long and uncomfortable journey, and the kind of warmth and hospitality that you will remember for years to come.

By the time my college days were beginning to wind down, I had earned the reputation of being something of a wedding junkie. I did not like the awkward affairs in the city where I would have to stand and eat my food in freezing banquet halls, my ability to eat largely hampered by the enormous weight of those five-star plates. Indifferent food was served by bored, indifferent waiters. Though these weddings were a great excuse to get out of the hostel at night, they were not much fun once you actually got there.

The out-of-town weddings, now those were things I loved. The more obscure the town, the

Making every thread count A dusty, one-horse town once, Phulia, like Gupta and Garg, has also been imprinted by handloom’s success in the last five years; its ‘overnight’ rise, a precious gift of adversity.

With the government-run Tantuja shops on the verge of rolling down shutters, 15 years ago, weavers in Phulia were losing their only source of steady income. Pushed to the brink, they were forced to go out of their comfort zone and scout for takers elsewhere. Today their soft, handspun cotton saris are a canvas for colour and design experiments, often shipped thousands of miles away from their humble homesteads.

Although nascent, the skeins of the story of Meghalaya’s Ri-Bhoi district are not very different from that of Phulia’s. Its beautiful bolts of silks recently planted on the design map by Shillong’s Daniel Syiem. Straining to latch onto broken sentences over a tenuous mobile network, like an indulgent parent, Syiem says, “You should have seen their faces,” pausing for effect, before he recreates the magic of the day he returned to the village after his first showing in Jaipur two years ago. He recalls how the weavers — women, mostly, from the Khasi tribe — couldn’t help beaming ear to ear. He insisted the shy women wear shift dresses and trousers, jackets and shirts fashioned out of Changing fabric Ryndia — the textile they had woven for him Back at Gaurav Jai Gupta’s studio — where a and, until that day, only ever used to make tralone loom stands defiantly between designer ditional stoles with. better. I crisscrossed south mannequins like a Dr WhoIndia TAR- (KozhencherYears later, Introduced I would anonymously drive to the villagers by ry, Rajapalayam, Vijayawada, DIS — he points out that in theNagercoil) in through thehis same sprawling south Indian friend Tennyson Lyngdoh, dirtyfew jeans andhandloom a backpackhas stuffed last years, be- with two sa- towns, and the towns would me by. The who was then inpass the sericulture ris, heels and a slightly crushed come something of a cheat’s for-wedding gift. girls I had watched get married were long department, Syiem says he loved When arrive innet. a small town forEcommerce a wed- gone. mula andyou sympathy “Bridal otherand side ofversatile the world or thethe fluidity the DNA sitesLiving on ding, you treated likeare a celebrity.

Everyone wear andarehandloom the in high-rises far removed from everything of the fabric at once.

A love that hope to axe the smiles at you, if theynow,” have heard you and and shortcuts to as success he of else.share I remembered how when I was a compulwas palpable at the Lakme Fashmiddlemen longed to see Theretois play an excitement says, “but fewyou. bother sivetrade wedding-attendee, everyone lovedhis me. ion Week this year, where all-I benefitsinof fair the air is contagious and inescapable. with thethat textile.”

A charge that was well-fed, organic and people I didn’t know collection with smiled lesserwith the weavers There isbe too much against food, and cannot levelled histhe la- smell of san- at me and held my hand as wesuch talked. known weaves as Ryndia dalwood and crushed damp roses drifts above bel.

Combining multiple weavWhen I gotand married, knew it had to be to in Thoh IRew Stem opened everything else. and You styles see people ing techniques from — uncles and the dusty oldmuch temple town that I pretend is my acclaim. aunts at giddy best.

They can reinvent hometown, Chidambaram. across thetheir subcontinent to ‘engiI made my glamAdmittedly, the periphery of themselves when they meet a stranger neer’ a single nine-yard sari oryou, a dress, Gupta Syiem’s orous friends travel by bus suffer through experiments haveand been somewhat from far Theyloom can be(and funny puts his away. studio’s later, looms in limited so farour powerrestricted cuts and to inadequate — often different and kind and spontaneous in to a the ultimate styles of draping, Phulia, Chanderi and Banaras) air-conditioning.

Through the some inspired by the local way Ask thathim is about impossible to be style of weav- attire of jainsem. test. his signature haze But of incomprehensible wedbuoyed by a newfound around people you have known ing metal and crystals into fabric though, and confidence, and ding content rituals, I in could them in the see knowledge for too long. When youit’s visit he’ll remind you that notfor as apath-breaking the distance, thoroughly charthat his clothes can straddle the local and They can be funny wedding, and wedding, as it seems atjust first.for“Iaused copper (andand evenkindglobal by every inconvenience they Syiem for his next collection is and divide,med youtape don’t know thecassettes) petty quarthe from audio as rawspontaneous material working encountered.

The hotel rooms a textile designer to develop in a way with rels ofinthe past, And the awful back college. if youthings think of it,that a couple straight out ofand a 1980s’ new weaving techniques reviveTamil old mopatis impossible to thatgenerations might happen in the of ago, zarifuture. inevitably be meant vie, the tinymore bakery that wasand the and checks to add local colour around terns people Children follow you gold, around threads of silver or even did it not?” source of those baffling sugarheft to his label. you have known for and fight for over who gets to sit Unlike, instance, his contemporary Sancoated murukkus I would bring to too long next to you.

You are jay Garg’s Raw Mango labelphoto— which has script- Casting a wider thenet hostel. graphed withblockbuster people youinwill ed the biggest handloom retail The internet, meanwhile, There are days when I try and is also spinning a notrecent meetyears again.

At its some point, candy-hued minor handloom in with refreshing, think up problemsofforitsadvice revolution own.coEyou start thinking aboutfrom never treatment of gossamers Chanderi, hyp- commerce sites lumnists the aftermath of an such asinIndianRoots, Chandeleaving this small town. YouIndian could wear become er-colourising traditional likea riyaan Indian and wedding a small town: I was treated Ekayain are driving well-thought-out schoolteacher, bank teller, the owner of a agendas. never before — athe colour palette of Gupta’s like royalty and it madefor myinstance, socialistisself unChanderiyaan, a demsmall tea-shop. would never be a traffic ocratic Akaaro almost You always mimics aninovercast, comfortable.

Or I attempting was fed so many sweets that platform to arm weavers jam again, you rent aclear house less than in monsoonal sky.could Steering offor the bettermythe clothes wouldn’t fit.

Ashok Nagar District of Chanderi with what you spend onthe your tiny apartment.

As digital known heavy silks, Rohtak-born, LondonI felt skills. like I travelled back in time to on a kinder, Ekaya focuses squarely decothe last bus of the also day bounces out to of rative educated designer tends toyou return simpler world.

I laughedandand cried and weaves, handwoven needle-crafted town, you leave from theserelatively thoughts obscure behind and try in lighter cottons places danced withThe strangers.

I had never left.a Banaras. latter’sI wish website also plays not to think tooSambalpur, hard about in your needand to travel like Tope, near Orissa Phu- short, smartly produced documentary on the snigdha manickavel a Hyderabad-based writervoandintoWest never stay too long. lia Bengal. processes of weaving,is set to semi-classical

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The high tables Minor royalty, major meals across India Surajgarh, Rajasthan You can eat like a king anywhere in Rajasthan. But at Surajgarh, in art-filled Shekhawati, you can be fed by a king — HRH Vikram Singh. Or by a battery of kitchen staff trained to reproduce recipes created by three generations of maharajas from the principality of Sailana in Madhya Pradesh. Over the last few years, Tikarani Shailaja, Singh’s eldest daughter, along with her husband, Aishwarya, has leverEngineered aged her great great grandfather’s accieleganceforay Models dental into cooking — on a royal showcase Akaaro hunt no an less — as a delicious marketing collection in Delhi, the strategy for this haveli-turned-hotel. Excolour palette pect themonsoonal unexpected here: mutton dahi decidedly rv moorthy and garlic kheer! vada ₹10,000 (approx.) for double rooms; surajgarh.com; reopens mid-October; watch out for the annual Sailana Food Festival.

Itachuna Rajbari, Bengal Unlike Rajasthan, where ‘palace’ hotels are as common as camels, Bengal is a rookie in the heritage hospitality business.

Not counting the colonial tea bungalows in the north — for the British were rajahs too — it barely has two functional royal mansion-hotels. Of them, Itachuna Rajbari, two hours from Kolkata, places food at the centre of all affairs. Served in traditional kansha or bell metal, every meal here is an elaborate event, starting with a breakfast of luchi (deep-fried bread) and aloo’r chorchori (a simple dish of potatoes). Owned by the Kundus, descendants of Maratha warriors who once attacked the region to forcibly collect taxes and eventually put down roots here, nowhere is the family’s acculturation more evident than on its overladen plates.

From ₹2,400 for double rooms, plus ₹180-250 per meal; itachunarajbari.com Chittoor Kottaram, Kerala Think Ladakh, think camps. Think Kerala, think homestays. But Chittoor Kottaram, a restored single-key property in Cheranallur, is no ordinary homestay; it’s home to descendants of the Kochi royals. Not dripping with excesses, like palaces are wont to be, but with an elegance entirely unassuming, it abandons its modesty only in the dining room, displaying a range in vegetarian sadyas unheard of today. ₹20,000 for 3 rooms; cghearth.com Elgin Nork-hill, Sikkim Built in the 1930s by the last chogyal of Sikkim, this royal guesthouse still rings with the laughter of parties that could shame the Gatsbys of the world. Some of its early fascination for the Continent is still evident in the ceremonial afternoon teas — where the local Temi is served. But it’s the Sikkimese and Nepalese menus here that draw in the most discerning guests, who wash it all down with freshly fermented tongba (from millet).

From ₹8,700; elginhotels.com soity banerjee

Unequal music Despite the odds, one weaver refuses to abandon his loom and claims nothing can be better than a weaver’s life MEAL TICKET

Serve chilled

naintara maya oberoi

It was 40oC. We were in Delhi’s Chandni Chowk, and I was feeling the pressure, like a guide on a safari when neither the tourists nor the tigers will cooperate

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t my previous job, evzaar metro, we shared a plate of ery week was puncpaapri chaat, and then walked to-and blues Rhythm cals and sweeping views by of the city’s phototuated a Chandni wards Sitaram Bazaar. I was look-weave a A couple genic ghats. A film that is evidently geared, Chowk expedition, ing for Kuremal Mohanlal Korvai sari at CERC, like thesometimes website’s wares, to tug at the Kalakshetra, not entirely volun-heartKulfiwale and its neighbour Lala Chennai; strings and of both an aloe urban Inand Kulfi(below) tary.purse “But Istrings don’t want to eat Dulli Chand Naresh Gupta sujatha PL Banumurthi dian and global audience.

IndianRoots too has vera halwa!”

I’d wail to my editor, wale, both of whom make some shankar kumar its money onbeen the told expanding international who’d about this pecuof the area’s most expensive, but s a student at Ahmedabad’s Nation- located market liar for dessert handloom an at evolved, between anddown Vellore. by aand friend a partyIndiabest kulfi.

I ledArani the way Ku-In Class IX, al Institute of Design (NID), I joined inspired(you aesthetic that popular design blogs when his mother died leaving behind can find it at Shireen Bhacha Pati Ram with its curly wood- five chilSummer long espoused. a birdwatching group. It was the dren, such as An he dropped of school van,Indian in case you’re have interested). en balconies andout stopped shortto take her So evenIthough it’s not original analogy, first time I saw Baya weavers mak- place as a weaver.

15, he wasKureadept at weavdon’t return onan a weekly basis in front of theBy shuttered when Rahul Narvekar “Hand-crafted ing nests between tall rushes at the end of the ing.

Children were often involved in pre-loom anymore, but Ideclares, always like to go mal’s shop. “No!” I squeaked, leather back bags are here, yet a sari grounds. Bayas are known to make up to 500 activities in like the traditional setting. for high-luxury a kebab-punctuated stricken, a sherpa who has “You have hand-woven andthrough hand-painted overThe months trips for a nest. With no one to disturb them, to miscalculated inculcate theseaskills I would wander the lanes. step.early.

I rang the be asked was never quite city kosher,” it is impossible they flew to and fro, bringing fine stalks of to shop; fetch bobbins thread... walled in the daytime isnot to the man or onspin the the other end There is be swept by the force of from his argument. grass to weave their retort-shaped nests. We nothing wrong in panic. a child“Come helping quite different its night-As the laughed at my tothe houseCEO of time IndianRoots, the ethnic retail arm of watched silently, shushing each other.

In hold, yet weavers today fear this.

They do not avatar. During the day, only the Sunehri mandir, we have anNDTV, launched AugustMarwari to serve bhoja“India on a those days, stepping into the institute’s textile want their children to weave.” the chaatinshops, other dukaan.” digital platter” to the paisely-loving, Diwalidepartment, it was not unusual to find stuIt is a male makes the nest, nalayas and khomchawalas (itineNext to weaverbird the Sunehrithat mandir, huggingrant diaspora, should dents and faculty weaving at looms. There was and it is usually a man who does peddlers)Narvekar are around.

By theknow. swathed in tinsel and marigoldsthe bulk of When we call him, he’s onthe tourkebab-sellin southern Inno reason to think handloom might peter out, weaving.

There are 4,000 threads evening though, for Janmashtami, we came to ain the warp dia, retracing some of the 2,600km across Tajust as there was never a thought that the weabeing prepared by a weaver at the ers arrive with their skewers, shopfront devoid of any signs ofCentre. Bamil Nadu, Karnataka, Kerala and Puducherry verbird might stop building its nest. Yet, time numurthi saysanweaving is thesteel ideal exercise ready for business. kulfi save unplugged that were On mapped by management students has spared neither — weavers of the human this particular day, howevfreezer andfor a mortar and body pestle.and he recfrom Coimbatore at his behest. the avian and human kind are ommends starting before suner, I had lured twocompany’s friends into A man sitting on a plastic chair “And it’s only the tipby ofsaying the handloom steadily losing ground, and the rise. “Likeatgoing foryou a brisk walk! coming along “kebabs” iceblooked knowingly us. “So erg,” herepeatedly. says. looms have fallen silent. Like The weaving done from five to Now, it was 40oC, and want They keep likekulfi?” he said, as if he was Hot summer, cold drink Cooling off at a local ‘lemonwale’ shop pace, With Isavvy strategies IndianRoots some Bayas that somehow maneight in the morning was feeling the —pressure, like aroped conducting a drug deal.

“Phalsa,is the maxiin Chandni Chowk sushil kumar verma piano players in heavyweights Dongre, age to ferret out three stalks of mum oneone?” can can achieve, more guide on aSabyasachi, safari whenAnita neither one, stuffed mango, performing a duet Meera &the Muzaffar Alinor andthe Rawtigers Mango, among tall grass to continue building than what is possible tourists will “How did you know?”

I said,in an entire others, cooperate. to draw in the deep pockets from day nests,paranthawalas, a few humans find ways to been astonished. morning until lunchtime.” the who have one — the“And e-commerce site hopes the keep weaving. morning, here,” I beamed, liketoa axe magician, around since the 1850s, Hazari Lal Jain He smiled, rolled In upthe hisearly sleeves, and the loom middlemen and kachoriwala!” share the benefits of fair In the light-filled airy space of is on its best behaviour and “is a great Khurchanwale is the new kid on the walked away, whistling. Five minutes lattrade withEveryone averagelooked weavers as well.and It also the Craft Education and aResearch Centre moves without fits and As the day wears alarmed, mum- block here, only about 100 years old. at Kaer, a little boy appeared, withstarts. two plates hopes to do sheepishly what others like Jaypore lakshetra, a couple weave a Korvai onand andfour the heat setspaper in, the loom slows and bebled that they didn’thave really The owner Chennai, once tricked me into eating a saof kulfi, waxed napkins. sought to do in recent times — think of the ri. It isoffascinating to watch.

She works In the weavers want a kachori or a korma or out a jalebi, and piece parwal (pointed gourd) mithai,on the Thecomes stuffedcrankier. mango kulfi atpast, Kuremal’s is bought a box, and quite the please? stereoshortI border oneletend and he works across ‘Dobby abox’ Salem with could weliterally. get someBreaking cold drinks, but decidedat to that workfrom of art, based per-which the types endorsed by the offline or bigthe boxNaughara retailthe warp cover the couldon bethe directed to make To make matters worse, pass, sincetoI could see main that width of the sari threadshaps best idea in thesimple paters in countries like thewith US and it hopes to andcounter the other border. is faster and stronger, terns forworld the sari border. the With the of invention of golgappawala, his UK, pink and green the was piledHe with — replace seed peddle golgappas, an idea of wasn’t India that and she diminutive. Once in a while she gets the Jacquard loom, which uses a punch card to at hisdoesn’t usual spot; daulat fresh khurchan. a mango with ice cream.

It The owner once quite subscribe to dewy, mothballed ‘exoff her perch to go and more bobbins read patterns, weavers could make more comki chaat (a milky confection) isn’t Sometimes at Hazari Lal’sspintricked comes quartered on a leaf me into eating otica’ sold out ofinincense-scented he applies silk the glue on the finished plicateddona, designs of paisleys flowers. Banuavailable the summer; and my favou- you and see two men inside the centre and a solid a piece of parwal living rooms, blessed by a whole portions.

Korvai means “to sync” and they murthi designed a korvai loom by rite kebabwalas, in Ballimaran and Sui- shop stirring boiling milk mass of condensed, cold ra-integrating (pointed gourd) pantheon of miniature keep pace together, and like two piano players several bri processes into an automated walan, hadn’t Hindu arrivedgods yet. And even around fat kadhais kulfi, encircled by fro- system mithai, but I decided and goddesses. performing duet, on with which one personmango can weave an entire sathough Paranthewali Gali was open, its scraping the topa off toeach the concentrating zen Alphonso flesh. to let that pass “The ghee-fried only trouble is,” says Narveof keys but keeping the rhythm.

Their ri in two days.

This work fetched him paranthas doing brisk busi- side.a setKhurchan means You almost can’t tell where the Nakar, “craftsmen can’t symphony a sari. “You say there are tional Innovation Foundation ness, no and one weavers really felt up to eating a ‘scrapings’: full-fatis buffalo the ice cream ends andaward the in 2007. reproduce the same piece or fewer weavers by the hour, but from At the Crafts Council of India’s meet, deep-fried frisbee of dough either. milk is boiled down for mango starts: everythingannual is scale up production thewas delivering blocks hours until where come, each year one more Banumurthi earnestly In the gali, aatman onlyIthe thickdense,spoke creamy, icy and that vo- weavers drop of of a hat.”

A cycle, rationale weaverare joins,” saysthe PL bottom.

Banumurthi, wereatno longer disciplined enough to wake ice by unconcerned that half his ened scrapings left at luptuous once.

I looked at my friends, long appropriated and the foreman.

“Nothing could be betearly and weave.

Many weavers stood up and shipment was melting in the sun. He en- They’re gathered up, pressed into a slab standing sweatily and rapturously used to tered good aadvantage ter than traditional weaver’s shouted in protest: wanted their leisure shop, and the three of us watched, and sprinkled withapista and sugar to life. around a leaf plate like a they Nativity scene, by peddlers of high-luxHethe comfortably sits in deshis own andlike to not be tied to the loom.

The common like fans staring at an ephemeral art in- make one of simplest, gentlest and I felt a successful sherpa after all. ury merchandise space, an eye on his children, desire today is to get work done quicker and stallation, as every single passerby serts around, cold with and creamy. across the world.

And over the remaining ice, wife Iand elders.

He doesn’t have to make life easier. Ultimately, however, there is snaked a hand Re-enthused, tried to think of more maya oberoi only is a food writer based a lesson,and perhaps, for rush back from work, anxious to no easy bargain, a balance of trades and then over their foreheads, eager to summery things to eat. We took a cycle- naintara in Paristime. t@naintaramaya handloom, complete somewe errand that was By dissipating the ecology of weaving, sneak aaslittleitbit of cool for themselves. rickshaw to Lal Kuan, where fell upon takes a leap faith after him to the khurchan- Bade Mian’s not possible during the At day. He we lose the natural harmony of community Weoftrailed caramel-brown kheer. into a walas new, in avanthas everything he needs Kinari Bazaar. In comparison to Ashok Chaat Bhandar, next to Chawri Ba-within and craft. There is no equal music. garde unknown. the space of his home.”

Banumurthi grew up in sujatha shankar kumar is a Chennai-based soity banerjee Durgam Gramam, a village writer and photographer

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Slam dunk Sim Margins rising

At 7ft-5inch, Sim Bhullar is the first Indian-origin player to How the Kozhikode-based Centre for itResearch and Education for Social Transformation make to the NBA (CREST) is ensuring that the Scheduled communities too partake in India’s growth story

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Well played CREST uses theatre and group activities to dissolve caste differences in the classroom

t is just another day at All India Institute of Medical Sciences (AIIMS), Delhi. Sons pull weak fathers out of autorickshaws.

Wives fan prostrate husbands in the corridors. A father carries his bandaged child in his arms. And the vendor selling plastic files titled ‘My clear folder’ is doing brisk business outside the OPD. But it isn’t just another day at AIIMS, the largest public hospital in Delhi, for it is the first day of a workshop for the new batch of MBBS students. Hospitals are singularly unsettling places, that liminal area between disease and health; the one place few choose to be. But for the 72 students who got admission this year, the toil, the sleepless nights, the arduous days are yet to begin. Right now they are busy listing ‘qualities’ with ‘leaders’ (‘Obedience’ — ‘Manmohan Singh’, they gleefully suggest), creating skits, playacting scenarios, and generally having a whale of a time.

While one might wonder how these activities will make doctors of these students, the workshop aims to make well-adjusted adults and caregivers of these teenagers. Organised by the Centre for Research and Education for Social Transformation (CREST), this weeklong session provides the students with a set of es-

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Aim high Sim Bhullar, the Sacramento Kings’ Indianorigin player, pauses during a game against the Charlotte Hornets in July at the Cox Pavilion in Las Vegas, Nevada garrett ellwood/nbae/getty images

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n a watershed moment for basketball in players and coaches. Subsequently, the Indian India, Canadian youngster Sim Bhullar team’s sential soft skills, which tend to be neglected CREST international helps to dissolveperformances these arbitraryhave and became the first Indian-origin player to dangerous divisions through the power of during their years of studies. steadily improved, culminating in its first-evbe signed byand a team National Basand12th-ranked group exercises.

It hopes reBetween 2006 2012,in19the lower-caste stu- theatre er win over China during thetofifth ketball Associationsuicide (NBA), North America’s re- place dents committed at various profestheCup fractures caste with classroom FIBA Asia for Menoflast month. nowned professional league. sional colleges across basketball India, AIIMS, the day is “Bhullar’s camaraderie. progress willAt generate interest, Earlier in June, the Sacramento spentofinChinese a seriesplayer of activities that reported a Caravan article. TheKings selected but not like that Yao Ming. the to itsstudent summer to one mingle, death21-year-old of a first-year at league pro- Back in 2002,force Mingthe wasstudents a number NBA gramme; if he impresses this pre-season, pick, so there AIIMS twoand years ago forced Incooperate, conceivesurrounding ideas and was excitement he could be among first South Asians dia’s leading collegesthe to urgentplays and in the US.implement People in China just projects. fed off that Whiletoonehim might play in the NBA. 7ft-5inch, he is already the how ly take stock of Atissues around Initially, CREST organised excitement.

Bhullar, however, went undrafted wonder these tallest player currently in the league. activities will workshopssigned only byfor students social exclusion. and was subsequently Sacramento make Assuming Bhullar dons an NBA jersey later ofKings who got admission through resIn classrooms, divisions arise afterthought,” says Jonathdoctors theseas a strategic this October when thethe 2014-15 kicks off, anthe ervation, expert but quickly all too quickly along lines season of Rego, a basketball who has realised worked students, it will be the realisation of a of long-cherished that sports this only furthered agency the diskin colour, dress, occupation with to the leading management workshop aims ‘American Dream’. one’s parents, rank in the comvide in campuses.

Krishnan says, CAA KWAN and written articles for NBA.com. make well-adjusted “If weissegregated students in a petitive exams and, of course, adults and caregivers However, there hope that an Indian-oriJourney to the top demarcations programme then doors by atlanguage.

These gin player’s entry into the like NBAthis, will open of these teenagers His parents, Avtar and Varinder, migrated for other talented tending it you are declaring your create a ghetto-like scenario, youngsters.

Chief among from Punjabthe in the latefrom ’80s inthe search of better these prospects caste, your capabilities...”

With separating ‘us’ is the 7ft-2inch Satnam Singh opportunities and a saferTY, environment.

Eldest Bhamara, an the ‘them’. Vinod Krishnan assoprimary goala remote being tovillage reas18-year-old from daughter Avneet (23), Sim and youngest Tan- in Punjab who ciate programme coordinator, surewas students SC and ST noticedfrom

by Troy Justice, veer Toronto. Like Kerala, most Canasays (19) thatgrew evenupinin ‘progressive’ the communities that they to be inbasketthese NBA’s senior director ofdeserve international dian Sim can andreveal Tanveer by premier institutes, that their parents made brandchildren, of your jeans yourbegan class. Lee ball operations, at the Ludhiana Basketball Aplaying floor hockey (similar to icein hockey, ex- this country, it was orgaand Levis come on top, Wrangler the midcademy.

He they wasrealised sent on a best full tosports cept it isRuff played surfaces).

The nise dle, and & Tuffon at wooden the bottom.

An anthrocombined with theIMG whole batch, scholarship to sessions the world-class Academy ‘Bhullar Brothers’ soon he shifted caste are neverhedirectly adpologist and researcher, says he has heard where issuesinofFlorida, where has been allegiance to “Ibasketball, whereRuff & Tuff be- dressed but training students say, wouldn’t wear where the — years. make for agenda the last is four they immediate success, friends before you make divisions.

In a deeply causefound those people wear it.”

Another future NBA prospect is thanks to their height. To hone Bhullar’s 19-year-old college-gotheir skills, they moved to Huning brother Tanveer, who also I am in touch tington Prep School in West Virstands tall at 7ft-1inch. with my ginia, US. Subsequently, they Punjabi roots joined the New Mexico State UniEyeing the Indian market versity on sports scholarships.

The strategic benefits of signing In those two years, the elder an Indian player are immense, Bhullar led his team in blocks especially for a team like Sacraper game and won ‘most valuable player’ mento Kings. The team’s majority owner is Viawards back to back in the Western Athletic vek Ranadive, the Indian founder and CEO of Conference Tournament before declaring his TIBCO, a multibillion-dollar software compaeligibility for the 2014 NBA draft. ny headquartered in California. Together with Indian-origin minority investor Raj Bhathal, Hope or hype?

Ranadive acquired the franchise to prevent its “I’ve seen Bhullar on TV. He still needs to get fit, relocation to a different State. “Raj and I have lose a few pounds and work on his agility,” both built our lives and business in California, says Scott Flemming, head coach of the Indian so we felt it was our responsibility to give back national men’s basketball team, who has vast something to the State,” says Ranadive. coaching experience at the college and senior Since taking charge in March 2013, he has inlevels in the US. troduced a slew of measures to make the Bhullar’s fan following in India will be limit- Kings India’s “home team”. Last year, the team ed as he is a Canadian citizen and has already launched a Hindi version of its website represented that country on its junior nation- nba.com/kings/hindi. Subsequently, Ranadive al team. He, however, considers himself an In- and franchise player DeMarcus Cousins feadian and Canadian “equally”. “I am in touch tured in a short video exhorting Indians to with my Punjabi roots, I go to the Gurudwara vote Cousins into the NBA All Star line-up. Mioften and speak Punjabi at home; and since nority owner Shaquille O’Neal was seen padchildhood I have been instilled with great In- ded up, trying his hand at cricket. dian values,” he says over the phone.

Earlier this year, the Kings became the firstObserving that India can claim Bhullar only ever NBA team to have training jerseys with up to a point, Coach Flemming says, “We need the team name emblazoned in Hindi. The to develop players from within our system. Kings’ Sleep Train Arena has even witnessed Unlike China, India doesn’t have a profession- Bollywood-themed nights. al basketball league where players can comRanadive makes no bones about his ambipete all year long and get more exposure by tion to make basketball the second most folplaying with and against foreigners.” lowed sport in India after cricket. “Basketball Basketball in India remains a minor sport, has the potential to become stronger here without any noteworthy international suc- than football as it is easy to play and can flourcess to catapult it to mainstream attention. ish in urban environments. We hope to travel The Indian national men’s team is currently to India later this year and, if the appropriate ranked 61st in the world and the women are arenas are built, would love to have the Kings 40th. In late 2010, the Basketball Federation of play an exhibition game in the near future.”

India tied up with sports management conglomerate IMG-Reliance, which boosted fund- gopalakrishnan r is a basketball writer and the ing, foreign trips and better facilities for co-creator of ekalavyas.com

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Nothing to bark about Can’t have your late night cuppa in peace? Just ‘debark’ your dog, says Singapore

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A nosy affair Now, an ‘electronic nose’ that will sniff out diarrhoea

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ollowing complaints from residents in a housing colony about excessive barking of dogs in their neighbourhood (they are all pet dogs of course, this is Singapore we’re talking about), the authorities came up with the suggestion of ‘debarking’ the dogs. Debarking involves removing a part of the animal’s vocal chord so that their bark will be tempered at all times.

Following strong protests by animal rights groups, the idea was withdrawn.

For the time being, dogs in Singapore and their vocal chords are safe. We suggest they make a quick dash to Malaysia, where barking is still legal, la!

It organises training programmes, seminars, and colloquia that address issues concerning the Scheduled communities, to help ensure that they too partake in India’s growth story. It conducts these short-term orientation programmes for undergraduate students across various Indian Institutes of Technology, National Institutes of Technology and engineering colleges of Kerala to improve the performance/aspiration level of students.

Krishnan says, “CREST is the only such programme in India that caters to a particular sector to help them compete in an open market.”

hile it’s no Ebola virus, diarrhoea is a problem that all of us have encountered at one casteist country like India, where point birthor can another.

Well, thisdropping most irritating ailment considered out on day two. The still determine professions and opportunities, might just become thingtoo of hard, the past, joining classesawere the mode ofthe instruction often that is all students need to hear. legions of diseases that once were.and At the incomprehensible the University expectations unreAsk Ajay Singh, from Barmer, Rajasthan.

Be- scientists of Leicester, havelike developed a device thatin the vilal. Students him — often the first longing to a family of daily wage labourers, can sniffhe out the infectious bacteria Clostri- — carry lagehighly to make it to these top institutes studied in Barmer until Class X anddium moved to the difficile (C.diff) diarrhoea and a famhopesthat of a causes community, not merely Bharatpur for plus two. The second of three stomach cramps. ily. Singh, who has now become a local celebribrothers, with a younger sister, he came While to the technology is still says, at a trial stage, ty in his village, “Ranga Sironce wrote in my know about IIT from posters and ads.

His fam- infected developed, notebook,patients ‘You will be a star one day’. That ily wasn’t even aware of the hallowed caninstitube diagnosed meantina an lot into me.” At times, such simple tion. He travelled to Kota for his IIT-JEE stant, leadingwords to quick of encouragement can shift the scale coaching, where he stuck formula and charts instant recovery. from dropping out to forging ahead. His above the kitchen stove and sink, to ensure mother has never visited Delhi that he was studying all the time. When he got as she remains behind the conadmission for a BTech at IIT Delhi, his family fines of a ghungat (veil), but REST’s flagship programme Singh has travelled miles, he were disbelieving rather than enthusiastic. is a five-month Post Gradufirst in came to Delhi n the latest news from China, “I a man Sichuan prov-on June 7, 2010,” he meets the new batches at AIIMS It hopes to replace says, “How can Ifor ever forget that date?” While to motivate them, and hopes to the fractures of caste ate Certificate Course for Profesince in southwest China is allegedly looking a mom sional Development (PGCCPD), bigness of out the an bigancity might have im- go to the US or UK for a PhD and he can adopt. The 30-year-oldthe man, had put with classroom held in Calicut. The course prolack oftoghee in food disap- become a scientist. nouncement on a local website,pressed with anhim, offerthe $ 162,000 camaraderie vides skills to enable candidates pointed him. He was most astonished by the right candidate. from Scheduled communities to parents dropping wards off at IIT. “No The back story The ad also specified that applicants should be their at least compete for jobs in the open oneno has ever dropped me, at any time,” he CREST is an autonomous institu57 years old, well-educated, with history of drug use market and for higher studies. tion under the Government of says, laugh and a shake of the head. and should be well travelled. He waswith alsoacareful to specGetting admission was only the first hurdle. Kerala that was incubated by Indian Institute Forty students from Scheduled communities ify, “whether we have a connection depends on the ‘magFour years later, Singh — now an MTech stu- of Management, Kozhikode, from 2002 to are admitted to each programme. Krishnan netism’ between us.” Any ‘magnetic’ moms out there? dent at IIT who exudes an easy confidence — 2008. It was conceived as a ‘national institute says, “When such students go for campus sedoes not dwell on the past. Dr Rangarajan, of humanities, science and professional stud- lections, they might not have the required who works with CREST and conducts commu- ies, addressing the needs of the Scheduled confidence level. Recruiters look for other nication classes, remembers a different boy — Castes and the Scheduled Tribes while inte- qualities like ‘smart’ and ‘savvy’. Those from the margins tend to be less aggressive and a terrified and overwhelmed teenager who grating with the globalised economy.’ don’t have the required cultural capital. This programme helps instil those qualities.”

Kavitha KG, from Thodupuzha in Idukki district, Kerala, an alumna from the 2011 batch, now works as an auditor in Thiruvananthapuhe Stonehenge in the English countryside has always fasci- puzzle because of a gardening error. ram. Speaking in perfect English over the nated visitors from across the world. The monument is a It was an exceptionally hot summer in England last year, and phone, the 29-year-old says, “I can easily divide ‘British national treasure’, and there’s even a bunch of people, the gardeners at the Stonehenge site didn’t have a garden hose talian fashion designer Roberto my life into before and after CREST.”Cavalli She befollowers of the religion of Neo-druidry (you may have read that could reach all the way around. A dry patch was discovered might belike better for his sandblastlieves that theknown other candidates, she too about them in Asterix comics), who consider the henge as one of where once more stones might have stood. The question of ed crazy yacht not wasjeans “veryand talented, but inparties, a shell”.but Theit’s sessions their holiest sites. whether the Stonehenge was always an incomplete ring as it is all sailing for the prince ofmentorship European onsmooth personality development, the While archaeologists have used methods such as carbon dat- now, or was it complete, has puzzled archaeologists. And the chic nowadays. and weekly workshops helped these students ing to figure out the age the structure belongs to and the pur- short hosepipe rounded off all arguments. The markings of anIf three artistsFrom fromthe California, gogain a newgraffiti confidence.

Malayarayan pose it served, no one expected to discover another piece of the cient stones suggest the henge was a complete circle once. ing byKavitha the names Reyes, Revok and contriSteel tribe, feelsof that CREST’s biggest are to beisbelieved, Cavalli not just stolen bution that it made herhas proud of her own their work hisofyouth focused fashion line lineage.

Asfor part the five-month course, her ‘Just Cavalli’and butshe has also spray painted his classmates had to interview an elderly name of it, making it seem like not he’s a persononoftop their community who was the creator. family member. Speaking to a village elder, While Incabout deniesthe anyceremonies, wrongdoing, she cameCavalli to know the they are looking to ‘settle’ the matter outvocaof patterns of worship, architecture and court, raised eyebrows. tion ofleading her owntocommunity — from this awareIn other the satisfaction designer hasinalso ness arosenews, a quiet herbeen own accused of stealing logo, from, of all peoadivasi past, her owna story. ple, the MTO School of Islamic Sufism. nandini nair

Shopping for mom

A Chinese man wants to adopt a mom and says he has the right price for the right candidate

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Of all things, a short hosepipe shows the way to solve a 4,000 year-old mystery

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cornerstone in-faq by joy bhattacharjya Place and their names

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wenty three years ago to the day, Leningrad went back to being called St Petersburg — after 67 years of being named after the Marxist leader. This is a quiz on places, the naming and renaming of them.

1

Still on Russia. In 2013, which city voted to commemorate its heroes by changing the city’s name back to its World War II title for six days a year?

2

Which place is named after general Tariq ibn Ziyad, who led the Caliph Al Walid’s troops during the invasion of Spain in the eighth century?

3

This village in Haryana is just 6km off the main Gurgaon road. It was originally called Chuma Kheragaon, but changed its name after a visit in 1978. Who came visiting, and what is it called now?

4

Which city in the Southern Hemisphere, settled in 1848, is generally accepted as being named after one of Oxford’s best-known colleges?

5

This locality, now in Delhi, was known as Ghiyaspur, before a man also referred to as Sultan-ul-Mashaikh and Mehboob-e-Ilahi settled here in the early 14th century. Since then it has been named after him — and is a must-see for visitors to the city. Name the locality or the man.

the new york times crossword-1208

two halves in one

6

Khem Karan, a town in the Taran Taran district in Punjab, has a site indirectly named after an American hero whose biopic won an Oscar for the leading man. Name please, and don’t let me confuse you.

7

If you went to a town named after Sir Donald, the governor of Punjab between 1865 and 1870, and one of the founders of Punjab University, which religious leader would you probably want to meet?

8

Which place in Mumbai is named after a companion of Edward VII, Prince of Wales, in one of the many statues that formerly dotted Bombay?

9

The Roman name for this place was Silva Nigra, the German name is Schwarzwald.

How does the rest of the world remember it, mostly while ordering dessert?

10

What name was given by the Persians to a mountain pass where numerous Indian slaves perished during the bitter winter. The entire area is now known by that name.

Answers

1. Volgograd; it was called Stalingrad during the war. Ironically, the man who changed it to Volgograd in 1961, Nikita Krushchev, served as a Commissar there during the battle of Stalingrad in 1942.

2. Gibraltar (from the Arabic ‘Jabal Tariq’ meaning ‘mountain of Tariq’) 3. Jimmy Carter; the village is now called Carterpuri.

4. Christchurch, in New Zealand 5. Nizamuddin; Hazrat Shaikh Khwaja Nizamuddin Auliya, who built his Khanqah here in the 14th century.

6. Patton Nagar; Khem Karan was the site of a major tank battle in the 1965 war, and almost 75 Patton tanks were captured or destroyed. The site was developed as a tourist attraction by the Indian army and named Patton Nagar.

7. The Dalai Lama; the town is McLeodgunj in the Dhaulagiri range, close to Dharamshala, and the headquarters of the Tibetan government in exile.

8. Kala Ghoda, now the site of a major arts festival.

The statue was of the Prince mounted on a fine charger.

9. The Black Forest in Bavaria 10. The Hindu Kush range, from ‘Hendu Kostan’ — Persian for Indian Killer.

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joy bhattacharjya is a quizmaster, director Kolkata Knight Riders and author of Junior Premier League — The First XI t@joybhattacharj

ACROSS 1 Shot from a gun 4 Hummus, e.g.

7 One-named rapper with a hyphen in his name 12 C2H5OH 19 “Yuck!”

20 Disney deer 21 Company named for a volcano 22 Ones with bouquets, maybe 23 Actress ___ Dawn Chong 24 Aught 25 Subject for the philosopher Heidegger 26 Dressed with elaborate care 27 Passage from life to death 30 Scorecard column 31 Unwritten reminder 32 Wedges, e.g.

34 Sources of feta and ricotta cheese 38 Biological ring 39 Round trip … or the subtitle of “The Hobbit” 41 — 42 “This I Promise You” band 43 Neptune’s home 44 Brewer’s oven 45 “Really?”

46 Fins 48 Aquatic singer 49 — 50 Camp treats 53 Astronomical datum 54 20-Across, e.g.

55 Nutritional std.

58 Eponym of Warsaw’s airport 59 Numismatic classification 60 Private gatherings 63 Having macadamias or pecans, say 64 Part of E.S.L.: Abbr.

65 Word with holy or sacred 66 Sweats 67 Met one’s potential 69 Old capital of Europe 70 Cat also known as the dwarf leopard 71 51-Down unit 72 YouTube posting, for short 73 Firm (up) 74 Basketball play 75 Inexpensive reprint, maybe 78 — 79 Ocean menace 80 Less prudish 82 Deuteronomy contents 83 German Expressionist Otto 84 Sin city 89 2005 nominee for Best

Picture 90 — 92 Name on some European stamps 93 “Do the Right Thing” pizzeria 94 Where the wild things are?

95 Steeply discounted product, maybe 97 Distort 98 1980 hard rock album that went 22x platinum … or a hint to how to cross this puzzle’s 27-Across 99 University in Lewiston, N.Y. 103 Speculate, say 105 Cadenza or Forte maker 106 Terre in the mer 107 Some badges 108 ® accompaniers 109 Not a reduction: Abbr.

110 South of Spain?

111 Anne Bradstreet, for one 112 Lane in Hollywood 113 Fa-la connector 114 Conan’s network DOWN 1 Director with three Best Foreign Film Oscars 2 Messengers, e.g.

3 Todd of Broadway

4 Tooth decay, to professionals 5 Not going anywhere?

6 Michael or Sarah 7 Daughter on “Bewitched” 8 The Carolinas’ ___ River 9 End in ___ 10 Comfort or country follower 11 Badger 12 Seen 13 Revisits an earlier time 14 Speeds 15 Tucked away 16 Prefix with smoker 17 What a picker may pick 18 “Purple haze” 28 Lots 29 Plebiscites 30 Stands one’s ground 32 Clothing lines 33 Metal fastener 34 Yves’s “even” 35 Amphibious rodent 36 Autobahn hazard 37 With 60-Down, carnival treat 40 Stir 41 It might be heard when a light bulb goes on 43 Parisian possessive 45 — 47 Try very hard

48 Remain undecided 49 Korean money 50 Coach with two Super Bowl championships 51 Collection of vehicles available to personnel 52 Makes a choice 53 Look after 54 — 56 Three-time N.B.A. All-Star Williams 57 Part of P.D.A.: Abbr.

58 Jim Cramer’s network 59 Cause of an audio squeal 60 See 37-Down 61 It’s caught by a stick on a field 62 Busy as ___ 65 Go pfft, with “out” 68 Yuri’s “peace” 69 Publicize 73 Atlas index listings 74 One was blown in Ellington’s band 76 Quizzes 77 Presentation opening?

78 Dial-up unit

79 European capital on the Svisloch River 80 Scale abbr.

81 ___ pro nobis 82 — 83 Bishop’s place 85 Libran stone 86 Arp or Duchamp 87 Lowest bid in bridge 88 Buoys, e.g.

90 Mire 91 Support group since 1951 92 Cause of weather weirdness 94 — 96 Dickens villain 97 Goods 98 Nickname for Georgia’s capital 99 Small amount of drink 100 Oath-taking phrase 101 ___-high 102 “Little Caesar” weapon 103 Superseded 104 Dish made from a root

By Alan DerKazarian/ Edited by Will Shortz

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