Blink issue 10 march29 2014

NEW MOON RISES On the heels of Moon Moon Sen and her diaphanous chiffons in the political battlefield of Bankura p3 saturday, march 29, 2014

dipankar bhattacharya

A decade after Ustad Vilayat Khan’s death, we remember the maestro who defied stereotypes, re-engineered the sitar and remains its finest player p9

The string theory

A POET’S PROSE Adil Jussawalla’s meditations on poetry, politics and Mumbai p18

A NEW TENNIS RACKET? Top players prepare to hold court in an IPL-style championship p22

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He who pounces like a dog

Game of clones Pete Sampras and Andre Agassi (flanking tennis legend Rod Laver) have been signed up for the IPTL ap/amy sancetta; Mahesh Bhupathi, the man behind the league

A low-down on how Tamil Nadu’s dreaded gangsters earned their reputations and epithets k gopinathan

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here’s a running joke in Madurai households. It says that if you do not find a blade to sharpen your child’s pencil, you can make do with an aruval (a type of sickle or billhook). It’s a subtle indicator of how gangster culture has permeated this much-revered temple town in Tamil Nadu. Movies, television and pop culture have glorified the exploits of goondas from this region, brandishing aruvals, dishing out their trademarked retribution in spades, while lawmakers sit back and enjoy the spoils of the carnage. But the real life thugs are no ordinary ruffians. Many of them have been anointed with, or earned sobriquets that precede their reputations.

Almost three weeks ago, one of the most dreaded gangsters in Tamil Nadu was apprehended by the Chennai police. The man, referred to as ‘Dog’ Ravi, had 25 criminal charges against his name, including four homicides.

His nickname was inspired by his former profession of a trainer and seller of pedigree dogs.

A senior officer from Chennai Police tells us, “Ravi’s infamy dates back to over a decade. In 1999, he murdered Nagaraj, the brother of a rowdy known as Dindigul Pandi. Then, in 2000, he was the prime accused in the murder of Ilango, the cousin brother of Varichiyur Selvam, a gangster from Madurai. He was also involved in the murder of a political leader from Tamil Nadu, Aladi Aruna in 2004. Many gangsters were gunning for Ravi’s blood, including t’s often amusing to notePandi how and mostSolai upVarichiyur Selvam, Dindigul Bangkok leagues Ravi.coming Dog Ravi was closelyinvolving associatedfranchise with othAndy Murray teams earn ‘IPL-style’ Despite all er gangsters likethe Appalam Raja,tag.

Kakku Veeran Victoria Azarenka glorious Shankar, controversies by and the Manalmedu whosecourted friendship Jo-Wilfried Tsonga that tournament, the label is attached withcricket Ravi dates back to 1996.

It was also the to events charge nonchalantly.

It yearthese whensporting the first criminal against RaCarlos Moya seems rather counterintuitive.

If anything, vi was registered.”

Daniel Nestor these leagues mustmight be advised to step away While gangsters be associated with Kirsten Flipkens from the murky trailfor thetheir IPL. finall things bloody,shadows they arethat known more to placing the erThe tastes as obvious well. Theobjection official tells me, “Ravi Dubai IPL badge on the lapel is that such used to own a dog imported fromcompariSwitzerNovak Djokovic sons simplification that₹1.5 doesn’t land,often whichseek he’daprocured for about lakh.

Caroline Wozniacki exist.

Thehis Indian Badminton League or Hockey During arrest, we recovered a pistol of an Goran Ivanisevic India League doesn’t the revenues or American make frommatch him which was worth popularity that IPLwas generates. over ₹1 lakh.

Ravi on the run since 2008, Janko Tipsarevic The latest tournament to be bitten by the Nenad Zimonjic IPL bug is the International Premier Tennis Martina Hingis League (IPTL). Once again, it is anything but.

Malek Jaziri Although a novel and contracted form of tennis will be witnessed during the tournaMumbai ment, its major components flatter to deceive.

Rafael Nadal Four Asian cities — Mumbai, Bangkok, SingaPete Sampras pore and Dubai — will be represented by some of the best former and current tennis players, Ana Ivanovic starting November 28 to December 13 later Gael Monfils this year.

Rohan Bopanna Every match will see a best of five sets, Sania Mirza where each set will be played by players across Fabrice Santoro categories — men’s and women’s singles, men’s and mixed doubles, and men’s legends.

Singapore The recently held player draft witnessed Mumbai’s acquisition of Rafael Nadal, Pete Sampras Andre Agassi and Sania Mirza. Nadal will reportedly earn a Serena Williams million dollars per night.

Tomas Berdych In a departure from the spending caps enLleyton Hewitt forced in other leagues, the franchises here Patrick Rafter had to spend a minimum of $4 million on each player. In all, $24 million have been Daniela Hantuchova splurged, as teams were required to draft at Bruno Soares least six players None of them could sign Living on the edge SicklesNicholas and billhooks are the weapons of choice for mosteach. criminals operating in the temple Kyrgios town of Madurai sam panthaky more than 10. Although little is known about

Hall of infamy (clockwise from far left) Dog Ravi r siva, Attack Pandi g moorthy, Kakkathoppu Balaji and Sivakasi Jayalakshmi m moorthy

Double fault? occasionally by atsnagged his wife’s broiler Later this year, an IPL-style tennis leaguedropping that has shop in Ambattur, Chennai, but never staying Even close associates never knew his top-notch players hopes to win put. over itshisdetractors

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lice officials with a weakness for women. They in turn would shower her with gifts and gold.

Believe it or not, her pastime was riding in the whereabouts.” But Ravi has found a perma- jeep with the policemen while they went on nent residence after all — in the Chennai Po- their rounds. She even wore a uniform during lice’s list of its most wanted gangsters. these patrols and managed to run her charade the sponsors as yet, reportedly, the Ravi, majority Keeping him company are Kalvettu Kak- forThese doubts have tinged the IPTLfor canvas almost a decade.

Unfortunately Jayainvestment in theArcot Mumbai team was kathoppu Balaji, Suresh and CDmade Mani.by with unseemly colours.gave Perhaps, one and should lakshmi, the uniform her away she Hyderabad-based Prasad V Potluri. compa- have Folks in Madurai say there’s anHis altogether expecteda this low-key reception. For tenwas arrested few years ago.” ny PVP Ventures also Ravi ownsearned Hyderabad Hot- nisGiving different reason why the canine doesn’tusreally need such a league.

Cricket, a lowdown on how pseudonyms shots Indian Badminton League. with a badminton suffix.inRthe Sivakumar, a crime reporter hockey falling staditend to get and attached to battled certain offenders, he Yet, for all theTamil moneynews and magazine, the presence of um Madurai-based says, for years before they says,attendances “The nicknames are usually givenstarted by the stars Novak Djokovic, “The like nickname stuck to Andy Ravi Murray becauseand of Sehis organising tournaments in writnew policemen such themselves.

When to thedraw police rena Williams, the tennis world has tendency to pounce on his enemies likehardly a dog. spectators.

Tennis, is yet to faceinsuch er takes down the however, name of an accused the been enraptured the developments over hurdles. Filling Of course, that wasby one of the lessseatshe hasn’t a problem register, looksbeen first for a distinthe past few weeks.for It doesn’t help that partici- for the sport.guishable physical trait. Of er-known reasons his epithet.” pating players have already reservaThere are also those like expressed P PanNor can one argue with good work reason course, that doesn’t allthat the tions over‘Attack’ the tournament. di, alias Pandi, the chief the top players need participate in the IPTL. time.

So to you have to start digging “The schedule is a littleofshorter accused in the murder ‘Pottu’ The andlook Nadals earn into Federers their history, for associthese days, gives thefunctionary guys an opSuresh, a itpolitical enough to fill their pockets, bags ations, family names, businesses, ‘Attack’ or ‘assault’ portunity to play a few exhibifrom Madurai.

There’s a very quirand cupboards.

There’sfelons little end inetc. That’s how these are synonyms for tions, makefor a few extraearning bucks. We ky reason Pandi his centive themlike to play in an exup withfor names Thenga-kada ‘awesome’ in all know they need it, so if somenickname.

Sivakumar goes on to Nadal tournament in Mumbai Mariappan (he who used to be a will be and seen in hibition Madurai one’s dumb enough toPandi pay them, tell me, “In those days, used or Bangkok.

An IPTL trophy is untender coconut vendor), Appalam action with his Chennai slang they’d be adumb not to takehairit,” to sport very distinctive likely to feature prominently in Raja (whose father used to sell apwibbly-wobbly said while styleSampras and one recently, could pick himalso out their cabinet. palams or papads), Kattikuttu Kaknees in the confirming that he intends to from a crowd on the basis of his Yet, Nadal be seen preferred in action laimani (hewillwhose inaugural season play only three matches.

One hairdo.

His friends called his hairwith his was wibbly-wobbly weapon a knife) and knees so on.”at couldn’t help but note strong cut an ‘Attack’ style.

Thethe words ‘attheAccording inauguraltoseason.

Forfigures, years, unofficial apprehension in are theused 14-time tack’ and ‘assault’ as synonyms for about 186 rowdies the Spaniard been at the forehavehas been identified in Grand Slaminwinner’s ‘awesome’ Maduraistatement. and Chennai slang. And Madurai district frontso offar. theOut campaign of these,to 15 shorten rowdies Andre Agassi, drafted

by Singapore, hasApart also the that’s how he came to bear the name.” playing Hecategory. believedHow fewer fall into the calendar. prize catch dotoursuch displayed interest playing the whole from this,little according to in urban legend, Pandi naments would helpthe lengthen Hence,a goondas still evade law? LR careers.

Arumugham, tournament. has even announced that he used to be anHe accomplished kabaddi player in it is difficult to explain his“There presence the police head constable, says, is aninacute wouldn’t give dinner with IPTL. his hey day.

Hehis wasThanksgiving known for his aggressive Surely, the 27-year-old should shortage of policemen on the field on anyhave givthe family a miss for IPTL. Money can’t replace manoeuvres, which he unleashed every time skipped it. Yet, there. moneyshift-based does talk. en day. Due to he’s the lack of So, a proper love, after all, seems! Moreover, he neared theitopposing team. Maria Shara- Or perhaps, Nadal realisedmany that he routine (except inhas Chennai), of has the onpopova andwere Li Naunder decided to skip the that tournaIf one the impression the ly so much timemultiple left before his without knees give up. licemen work shifts proper ment as was their agentonly Max Eisenbud notoriety limited to the menfolk,was he sleep, Unfortunately, forThe thesalary IPTL, not is food or rest. paideveryone to the pounconvinced merits. or she would of beIPTL’s mistaken.

A Mata Hari tale for afflicted career-threatening licemen with is also a pittance. To topfitness it off, probmany So, it’s times, tough Sivakasi to fall inJayalakshmi’s love just yet with the lems. modern exploits Besides,policemen all professional playerswith would low ranking are delegated orIPTL. Originally to havetextbooks. six teams, it are the stuff of meant criminology A has con prefer to establish at the derly duties, when their they legacy could be out Grand in the ended upexcellence, with four.Jayalakshmi Mahesh Bhupathi, the Slams artist par hailed from or other field, doing themarquee jobs theycompetitions. were hired for.AIfbreethis man who conceptualised the league the fireworks capital of Tamil Nadu. and con- zy night in Mumbai is not at the desired is the quality of workforce hand, yousetting cannot tinues to be on at the helm, hasn’t anya for Speaking condition of revealed anonymity, starslaw to deliver their at least. expect and order to best. be inNot top yet, order.” significant information on“Jayalakshmi’s the financial moviapolice inspector told me, is a senior reporter with The Hindu bijoy bharathan bility of the project dus operandi was toeither. ensnare high ranking po- priyansh

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Sensational Moon Moon Sen during her glam days sushanta

patronobish

New moon in Bankura In her chiffon sarees and with her filmi heritage, Moon Moon Sen is sure to bring freshness, if not revolution, to Bengal

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est Bengal’s district of Bankura was anything but sleepy this past Sunday afternoon.

Looking more like fans who wait impatiently for their beloved star’s blockbuster to premiere, groups of curious onlookers flanked a small patch of road that led to their town. Though it had been weeks since the graffiti in Bankura’s streets had announced that the Trinamool Congress was fielding Moon Moon Sen as its Lok Sabha candidate, this was the first time the actress was making a pit stop in the constituency, her first real political debut of sorts. Trying hard to contain their enthusiasm, a majority of the villagers were however, forced to confess that they had never seen any of the actress’ films.

Their impatient wait finally ended when a convoy of SUVs emerged from the distance.

Sen stepped out of her Toyota Fortuner in a white salwar kameez and blue stole. The meet and greet lasted only a few minutes. The sun was harsh. Sen was soon whisked away to her hotel for lunch.

Journalists gathered outside Sen’s room wanting an itemised account of what food the star had been served, down to the kind of dal (moong) and chutney (coriander) that she had sampled. The palpable excitement even made one of the local sweepers want to reconsider his strong communist loyalties.

After having comfortably won the Bankura Lok Sabha seat nine times since 1980, CPI(M) leader Basudeb Acharia is not to be taken lightly, but the Trinamool Congress believes it has found itself a trump card in Moon Moon Sen. As the 49-year-old teacher Sasticharan Chatterjee opined over a cup of cha, “When things get old, all you need is a whiff of something radically new.”

In an interview to this paper, Sen hinted at a new kind of poriborton (change), one of mindsets. She said, “We don’t live in a time when people say that since we are poor, we are communists, we are ideological, or since we have read Karl Marx and Lenin, we don’t want a film star in our midst. People want a freshness.”

Back in Bankura, that is precisely what the star brought to the table. She changed clothes the way she’d change costumes on a film set.

Wearing a blue and white-striped chiffon saree to address party workers at the Bankura stadium, Sen seemed to redefine the oft repeated Trinamool slogan of ‘Ma, Maati, Manush’ (Mother, Earth, Man) to a more apt ‘Ma, Mamata, Moon Moon.’ While senior leaders tried to enthuse the 30,000-strong crowd with badly pronounced cries of “Ei bar or nebhar” (Now or never), peppering their speeches with references to Telangana, 2G and Coalgate, Moon Moon Sen stuck to telling a story she knows best — her own.

Stars and stripes While campaigning in Bankura, The actress began by introducing herself as Moon Moon Sen sticks to the story she knows best; the daughter of yesteryear star Suchitra Sen. her own shreevatsa nevatia The idea of hereditary glory does not bother Sen much. As she later clarified — “I have my referring to the chief minister in conversamother’s recognition that I am riding on, but I tion. Living up to her somewhat unorthodox am also riding on my own recognition be- credentials, she even starts an interview by cause I have worked for 22 to 24 years in Benga- saying that she has just returned from the li cinema and in the cinema of other States. I hairdresser’s — “People do that. They go shopdidn’t do too badly.” When introducing her ping. My normal life hasn’t fully stopped.” But husband Bharat Dev Varma to potential voters there is some evidence that Sen’s life isn’t as in Bankura, Sen used his schednormal as it once was. On Monuled tribe background to ingraday evening, a woman from Bantiate herself with the adivasis kura is said to have come up to who were present. The fact that Sen before she left the salon and I’d like to work in the he is a descendant of Tripura’s is believed to have told her that district… maybe not royal family might of course even after all these years, it is realfor the whole month, have felt too opulent a truth to ly difficult to procure safe drinkmaybe for seven days labour. But the 66-year-old acing water in the area. Sen says and also when the tress cannot really be faulted for that she had to ask, “So what were need arises dishonesty. As soon as she had you doing for nine terms? Why told the audience that she wantwere you voting for the same ed to stay with them and work in man and the same party?” Sen rethe district, she felt the need to alises now that “politics is all correct herself. “Maybe not for the whole about keeping your doors open. It isn’t about month, maybe for seven days and also when getting into a slanging match on one of Arthe need arises.” She insisted that the work she nab’s shows”. The prospect, though, of seeing wanted to do was small, leaving the bigger Moon Moon Sen debate the nuance of legislajobs and tasks for bigger leaders. tion has never seemed more appealing. Even if Sen may have spent a good portion of her it’s only for the chiffon saree she wears.

Bankura speech extolling the virtues of Mamata Banerjee, but she doesn’t always find it nec- shreevatsa nevatia is a freelance writer based essary to add the reverent suffix ‘di’ when in Kolkata

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The memory keepers Mango people’s drink

uct’s marketing and distribution. He decided to test launch it in his hometown, Varanasi, in eastern Uttar Pradesh. With friends helping with the distribution, Singh priced the 200 ml juice pack at ₹6. “The first batch sold within days. In the first year itself, we recorded sales of over ₹70 lakh,” he says.

As our world becomes homogeneous, our cities all mind-numbingly similar, the idea of a souvenir stands alone and brave Thirst for success

This home-grown mango juice brand is rural India’s favourite drink... one that has put the squeeze on several MNC giants

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Interestingly, Singh was blissfully unaware of

Bring me back (clockwise from farthe left) importance of profits and profitability Flamenco shoes forback sale inthen. “I didn’t even know these terms. If I the Spanish city of had Seville known, I would have opted out as we were reuters/marcelo del pozo; not profitable after paying government dupieces of the Berlin Wall ties, taxes and margins to distributors and restill find takers, 25 years tailers. To us, what mattered then was that after the great fall reuters/ tobias schwarz ; wooden sales and demand were rising,” he recalls. masks beckon touristsSoon, in he was also looking at nearby states.

Kochi h vibhu; Eiffel Tower Godrej had a spare capacity at its Bhopal plant souvenirs to seal love and and another company had idle capacity in Inlonging in Paris reuters/ manySingh began to use those too. “In 2005, charles platiau; and the dore. colours of Pipli in eastern we set up our own plant in Vadodara.” It had a Odisha ashoke chakrabarty daily production capacity of 4,000 boxes,

each with 27 packs of 200ml juice.

Today, he has plants in Varanasi and Dehradun as well. But there is demand for much more. According to advisory firm Technopak, the fruit drinks market in India stood at ₹3,500 crore in 2012 and will grow at 15-20 per cent till 2017. To meet this burgeoning demand, Singh is coming up with a fourth plant in Vadodara at an investment of ₹100 crore. It will have a daily capacity of 70,000 boxes.

Manpasand’s revenue crossed ₹300 crore last fiscal, and is expected to touch ₹600 crore in FY2015 and ₹1,000 crore by FY2016.

magine spending an entire month trav- juices were seasonal drinks. After June-July, noelling the length of the country, braving body would buy them again till next summer. dusty, kachcha roads, narrow lanes and Now, it’s bought through the year,” he says. traffic congestion. And that too twice a year, for 10 years! Dhirendra Singh did just Friendly advice The uncommon touch that between 1998 and 2008 — his travels took With almost no knowledge of the business, Available in 20 states, the retail network of him and what is today rural India’s favourite Singh ventured into it in 1996 only because a over two lakh outlets wasn’t easy to set up. fruit drink, Mango Sip, to practically every friend advised him to. “I had During his road trips, Singh s I get older, I am increasingly grateful that contain plastic repnook and crannyan ofexperience. the country.That a keychain, a moved from Mumbai to Vadodaidentified areas with high footI have friends who like to travel far moreDuring lica, glass box filled with often desertspend sand could capture hisatravels, Singh would ra when I was working for a petfalls for distributorships. For inthan I do. There is something wonderfully what to beobserving far from home.

To be surrounded by an entire dayisatlike a shop customers, roleum company.

Since Gujarat stance, in Bihar he chose Buxar Available in 20 states, childlike about people who love to travel. a language you cannot understand, in the their spending preferences and the shopkeep-to stand has an entrepreneurial culture, over Arrah as it has a busier marthe product’s retail They are restless but hopeful. They are optimistic shadow ofHe something longed tothesee your ers’ expectations. soon sawyou’ve that pricing bug bit me too,” he says. ket despite being smaller. network of over two and they are energetic. They believe that there are whole life, alone to understand what youinmust look and commissions could drive sales With like a bank loan of ₹2.5 lakh “I personally went to every dislakh outlets wasn’t things out there in this world of ours that are worthy fromand a distance. tier-II towns rural areas, and that the ‘dis- and some money borrowed from tributor in the country. I would easy to set up of pursuit, that should be sought out, enjoyed and It is easy todistributor’ laugh at themodel idea of souvenirs.

They and are friends, he bought trict-headquartered would family spend time with them, undershared with others. tacky, are kitschy, theyMango are commercial. areto use the National fail here.

No they surprise then that Sip, theThey right stand their requirements and I love hearing other people’s travel stories and getneitherby beautiful nor useful. The inadequacy of aDevelopment soumanufactured Singh’s Manpasand BeveragDairy Board’s (beteven have meals with them at ting gifts from other countries without ever having venir shop today is plain to mango see when youinrunter intoknown them by its brand, Amul) es, is synonymous with juice their homes. That was my way of to stand in a line, get a visa and spend actual money. here at home. Tiny shops filled with brass carvings, the hinterland. mango juice-making spare capacity at its Ma- convincing them about my product and its When somebody goes somewhere and brings meBut when bright cloth-covered notebooks.

As soon as hescarves, embarked on this journey 18 hananda plant in Goregaon, Mumbai, and its consistent quality,” says Singh. back something, anything, I will love it unconditionyoulittle walkdid into theseknow places, youdemand know theypackaging are not forfacility in Vadodara. years ago, Singh that Over the years, Singh’s forwarding agents ally, immediately. I think of how this little because here every for his juice would you, outstrip supplyyou evenare after Withday. manufacturing and packaging in and distributors have grown with him. Ravi giraffe was carved by South African These are shops filled with place, thingsSingh for only had to take care of the prod- Mundara, Manpasand’s agent in Maharashdoubling production annually.

“Those days, hands and now it is here with me and it is people who are leaving, who will not stay tra’s Sangli, started in 2009 and made ₹4 lakh incredible. I think of how someone went long. No sunburned backpacker’s heart that year. Today, he has 70 distributors across far away and thought of me and literally is content until they have an elephant of 10 districts buying from him and he will close No sunburned brought me back a rock, and I would be some kind to take home with them. And this fiscal with sales of ₹3 crore. “The company backpacker’s heart filled with gratitude. The idea that some- is content until they if the dizzying displacement of travellgives us good marketing and sales support,” one thought of me in a crowded shop, have an elephant of ing across India must be distilled into a says Mundara. with limited time and an exchange rate single thing, then why not a bejewelled To cater to rural buyers with smaller pocksome kind to take that was laughing loudly at them and all elephant? I can find no fault with this. ets, Singh brought out the 125ml pack for ₹6 home with them the hard work they had to do, touches my As our world becomes depressingly (the 200ml pack is priced at ₹10). As Manpabitter old heart. The joy of getting a souhomogeneous, our cities all mind-numbsand does not spend heavily on advertising venir from someone else’s travels is far ingly the same — filled with the same and brand promotion (it mainly relies on greater than the joy I would get from acstores selling the same things, the same word of mouth), Singh is able to give a bigger tually going somewhere. restaurants selling the same re-heated food — the commission to his distributors and retailers.

Accordingly, there are many things in my life that idea of a souvenir stands alone and brave.

This not only gets him more stockists, but also are neither useful nor beautiful but I love them and The next time you go somewhere, anywhere, try helps him stave off competition from the MNC keep them close. Little things that have travelled and buy something. Struggle to communicate with giants, such as Coca-Cola’s Maaza and Pepsiback from far-off lands, safely tucked into over-stuffthe person selling it to you and do not shy away from co’s Slice. However, Singh made an exception ed luggage. Fridge magnets and thin t-shirts, woodthe obvious and the mundane. Pick up that sticker of this January, when he signed up actor Sunny en dolls and beautiful green bottles of mediocre a goddess from in front of an ancient temple, that Deol as brand ambassador. wine. Souvenirs from places I’ve never been, and postcard you will never send, that keychain of a tiny Singh is also ready for an initial public offerprobably never will be, and the comfort I get from Eiffel Tower. Feel good as you travel home, knowing ing (IPO) sometime next year. But despite the holding them, wearing them against my skin and that the souvenirs you have brought back will defy company’s big-time successes so far, his gaze looking at them from a distance at odd points durtime and space. You can share them with other peonever wavers from where it all began: the hinNewthe beginnings ing day, has little to do with the objects alone. ple or keep them all to yourself. Every time you look terland. “Rural markets welcomed me with Dhirendra Singh with The word souvenir is one of those soft French at them, they will remind you of why you love to travopen arms. I will continue to grow there,” asSunny Deol, who was words, el and why you love to come back home. serts Singh. recently with signedancient up as Latin roots that means to call to mind.

Weambassador can get caught up in the romance of this the brand of Manpasand snigdha manickavel is a Hyderabad-based writer rashmi pratap language and come to believe that an object could

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rate hub of Gurgaon.

By July that year, having covered nearly 1,200 restaurants in the National Capital Region, Goyal knew he was ready to go public with his online food guide. Thus was born Foodiebay.com, now rechristened Zomato.com — a trusted reference — for those who want to know all about restaurants, from their location on Google Maps to menus, to prices and user reviews across 11 countries.

“The company understood that people wanted to know more about the offerings at a restaurant and possible experiences,” says Goyal, who is now on the road, in an effort to expand Zomato’s operations.

Zomato employs 650 Stirring the pot people in 11 The initial investment — the cost countries, including of collecting and scanning meBrazil, Indonesia, nus, and paying Zomato’s first New Zealand, South data collection executive, Ashok Africa, Sri Lanka and Kumar — came from Goyal’s savthe UAE ings. After starting Foodiebay.com, he continued working with Bain until November 2009.

By 2010, Foodiebay had made inroads into restaurants in not only the national capital region (NCR), but also Mumbai, Pune, Bangalore and Kolkata. Its rising popularity attracted the attention of Info Edge, the company that owns Naukri.com, 99acres.com and other portals. By pumping in ₹4.7 crore in August 2010, Info Edge enabled the website to recruit sales staff. The name was also changed to Zomato to avert any likely associations with Ebay.

“Info Edge was interested in our business model. There weren’t many players in the online search market then and they believed in our execution strength,” says Saurabh Sengupta, India country manager at Zomato.

The latest round of funding in November last year saw Info Edge as well as Sequoia Capital pumping in ₹228 crore. Info Edge has so far invested ₹143 crore and owns a 50.1 per cent stake in the company.

While Zomato got over 16 million visits last month, its revenue comes mainly from restaurants advertising on it. Ad rates vary from city to city. ous eateries and place an order. The initiative In financial year 2012-13, it clocked ₹11.5 was an instant hit among his colleagues and crore revenue but has not broken even yet.

Goyal was enthused to keep adding more me- “Operationally, we have broken even… we nus to the list. hope to be profitable in India this fiscal. ZomaIt was just a matter of months before he re- to stepped into global markets only one-andalised that an online restaurant guide was a a-half years ago. There, it will take some time,” viable business with serious potential. He says Sengupta. teamed up with friends and fellow IIT-ians The company incurs its major costs on staff Pankaj Chaddah and Gunjan Patidar, and and technology requirements. It employs 650 spent weekends collecting and scanning the people in 11 countries, including Brazil, Indomenus of eateries in the then emerging corpo- nesia, New Zealand, South Africa, Sri Lanka, the UAE and the UK. It is eyeing newer geographies as it reaches a saturation point in the Indian market despite updating restaurant menus every three months.

“Our success in a country depends on the ability to find the right people to work with.

We want to cover the whole of Asia and Eastern Europe,” Sengupta says.

After using up the money from the latest round of funding, the company won’t require more funds in the next financial year, he says.

With so much going for it, Zomato is the perfect acquisition target for internet biggies.

But team Zomato doesn’t believe in giving it all up for money. “We have been approached for a sell-off. But we have not built the business to sell. We want to build a world-class company,” he says.

Now that’s a dream within tasting distance… for, as long as people love to eat out, they will readily click for it.

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Eating out of their hands

Zomato tapped into the curiosity of punters who want to know all about a restaurant before leaving home

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t was early 2008. Deepinder Goyal and his office friends at consulting firm Bain & Co were tired of scouring through stacks of menu cards each time they wanted to order food from a nearby restaurant. That’s when Goyal, a maths and computing graduate from IIT-Delhi, thought of scanning the menus of restaurants located near his Gurgaon office and sharing them on the company intranet. Anyone in the office could now log in, check out the offerings and prices at the vari-

Click for menu Saurabh Sengupta, India country manager at Zomato subhojit paul; Deepinder Goyal, founder of the start-up subhojit paul

rashmi pratap

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Poets as neighbours Adil Jussawalla’s essays and entertainments sparkle with a poet’s insight and an editor’s sweep of knowledge

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he journalistic obsession with international reputations and publishers’ advances has produced a top-heavy history of India’s literature in English. Such well-remunerated figures as Salman Rushdie, Vikram Seth and Arundhati Roy are in fact exceptions. Once we get away from the bestsellers and prize-winners, Indian English literature turns out to be an embattled, minority literature. It relies for its survival on a small number of publishers and its most original writers are constantly in danger of being forgotten.

This is truest of poetry, which has made few people famous and no one rich. Adil Jussawalla’s name belongs in this “little tradition” of writers with a pan-Indian readership of a few thousand people at most, the work of jobbing journalists and overworked college lecturers.

Jussawalla had an auspicious start with his precocious first collection of poetry, Land’s End (1962) published when he was 22. This was followed by the darker, more alienated, poems of Missing Person (1976), written on his return from England to India. There was a long poetic silence broken in 2012 with the publication of a fine new collection, Trying to Say Goodbye.

Soon after came a collection for children, The one remembered the money for weeks.

Luckily, there was food, so I survived.”

“Why didn’t you leave after that?”

“There was constant supply of food. It was a very safe environment. Ultimately behen-ji discovered me, and said, ‘what are you doing there, come out,’ but I said, ‘no, there are sandwiches here.’ She kept telling me but I kept refusing. After a while she gave up. In time, she grew fond of me and even got me sandwiches. My favourite is Chicken Takatak.”

“What made you change your mind?” I ask.

“It was Mulayam-ji. Earlier there was no opportunity for the youth. But under

Jussawalla was, Pinto tells us, the editor of Right Kind of Dog and Other Poems (2013).

The renaissance continues with the publica- “some of the most exciting books pages we tion of a new collection of Jussawalla’s prose. have seen”, at the Indian Express and later at Prefaced with a chatty introduction by Jerry that late lamented magazine of sophisticated Pinto, this brings together a wide range of Jus- smut, Debonair. In a 1992 essay for an early issawalla’s writings on his home city of Bom- sue of the also-lamented Indian Review of bay/Mumbai, books, travel, visual art and Books, he set out his editorial philosophy with politics. These extend from his punchy de- the succinct statement: “I believe it would do fence of Salman Rushdie against those who us reviewers a great deal of good if we realised sought to ban The Satanic Verses to his notes on we’re not giants; some of the authors we reexhibitions by eminent Indian artists. His es- view are.” On the evidence of this volume, Jussays on FN Souza and Bhuper Khakhar are su- sawalla was anything but silent in the years perbly well-informed about their between his collections of poetry, supporting art-historical context, but Jussawalla retains himself with a tireless regime of teaching and the rare capacity to be surprised by an individ- journalism. But the short prose works collectual artwork and to subjugate his critical ego in ed here are too affable, too reasonable, too full the face of artistic talent. of uncertainty, to sustain an image of him as a Some pieces, discursive meditations on literary giant of the traditional sort.

As with any collection of journalism, there himself and his surroundings, simply defy generic classification. In the title essay, the poet’s is a certain unevenness; some of his topical meanderings through South Mumbai have references will baffle his younger readers (of SHOVON a CHOWDHURY is healthy number with him confront in turn the architecture of the whom he has acquired chief Truth digger and authorof Asiatic Library, an old vegetarian restaurant, his two recent publications).

But Jussawalla at The Competent Authority activists at the World Social Forum shopping his best is very good indeed. He is an incisive for goods at a Chinese market, and banners critic, cutting to the heart of the matter with a management, youth flourishing. remark, as whenare he writes that VS Naiannouncing a Shiv Sena rally. “How many time his telling very great up-to-date the latest news. themeon is “civilizations and their zones have I crossed and re-crossed in the last I’mpaul’s speaks on for TV, the evenvivid through lies”.Arnab He has a knack analogy, as hour,” he wonders, “how many centuries?” When thewhen handbag, I can hearthe it all.

The other day, he describes multilingual Indian as I heard Mulayam-ji’s nephew Aditya Yadav “made from pieces of a linguistic jigsaw in haswhich become the of chairman of theinvariably UP Pra- lock shades one language deshik Co-operative in with the coloursFederation, of another”.a 5,000crore There company gives loans to farmers. are that a few argumentative pieces, as He when is 25. Earlier such a kind thingofwouldn’t have he defends literary cosmopolibeen possible.

They the would have been preju-of the tanism against ‘nativist’ position diced in favour qualifications and expeMarathi criticofBhalchandra Nemade.

In Jussarience.

Of course, first Mulayam-ji has to dewalla’s hands, ‘nativism’ is a respectful arrange for hisofnephews.

Once all of themnot a scription a legitimate position, arepejorative, arranged, I’m sure he’ll look other and receives notafter condescension youth. prefer something in tourism.” but I’d discussion.

As he writes in a different esI say, wishithim thebe best, butthat I fear his dreams might true a poet does well to maythink be dashed.

In the of himself asprocess, writing he forwill his learn neighbour, a simple truth.

Once you leave limits Mayawati’s but why place geographical on who can handbag, there is no goingInback. count as a neighbour? his words, “a shared language of poetry makes for the best neighbours of all.”

Jussawalla’s other accidental vocation has been that of an archivist, and preserver of memories. There is an affecting tribute to the forgotten IndoIrish novelist Aubrey Menen, and several allusions to the How many time scientific study conducted cheek’ and ‘leaving novelisthouse Victor without Anant whose zones have I crossed across 16 villages in Haryana permission.’

The Revolving Man is said to be a and re-crossed in the has confirmed what khap pan“This study has grave sociological im-of Britpioneering treatment last hour, he noted sociologist S Padchayats have been saying for plications,” said ish racism.

Further, Jussawalwonders, how many some time. The survey covered over one manabhan, “It means, we arresthouses la’s flatunless in Mumbai centuries of Yo China, conse1,000 men, each of whom owns at least the rapid growthhundreds of the files of corredisastrous.generated We are also one buffalo. The respondents were divid- quences could bespondence

by Cleared into ‘good’ and ‘evil’. About 84 per vulnerable to infiltration by female Chiing House, the co-operative nese chefs,publishing who combine both pricent of those classified as ‘good’ collective he was demonstrated a strong dislike of mary sources of eviltoin1984, one lethal involved with from 1976 which pubwe havebut been Chinese food. Responses to chow lished package. his own Already, Missing Person, also the receiving disturbing mien were particularly negative, work of the other poets involvedreports with the profromPatel, the Ladakh It Mehrotra was ob- and the number one reason being, ject: Gieve Arvindsector.

Krishna served that the op- that ‘keeps slipping through fingers’. In Arun Kolatkar. Is it too much to hope contrast, 96 per cent of ‘evil’ reposing forces havefind its some of this correspondence too will unusually highmight spondents confirmed that their editor someday? an Indian English poets of femaletaste, of- but evil-doing was caused by wombe doomed to proportion remain a minority ficers. Iftosome of them can en. Methods employed by womthey do not deserve be forgotten. cook, our boys will be en for this purpose included nakul krishna is pursuing a doctorate in philosophy ‘showing ankle’, ‘revealing defenseless.”

I WAS TRAPPED IN MAYAWATI’S HANDBAG! Maps for a Mortal Moon Adil Jussawalla Aleph Non-Fiction ₹495

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fter seven years without sunlight, his skin is pale and waxy.

He seems impossibly small for a 25-year-old. His body is shrunken from years in the dark. But otherwise he seems in good spirits.

“How did this happen?” I ask him.

“I was sweeping behen-jis room when I got hungry. I know she keeps food in her bag. She believes in being prepared at all times. While investigating the handbag, I fell in. There were sandwiches. I ate one. It was very good. Meanwhile, someone garlanded behen-ji with ₹1,000 notes, which she deposited in her bag. Trapped under a pile of currency, I was unable to escape. No

MARKETS STABILISE AFTER RAGHURAM RAJAN GETS A FACIAL!

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omen and financial analysts rejoiced after Reserve Bank Governor Raghuram Rajan underwent a minor cosmetic procedure yesterday evening. Rumours that he was becoming less handsome have caused tremors on Dalal Street, and softened the rupee. “We were watching him on TV last week. My wife was very concerned,” said Ketubhai Parekh, a trader in Ghatkopar. “She thought she saw a blemish on his cheek. I immediately sold 50 per cent of my holdings and bought a palace in Kensington.”

To bolster sentiment, Rajan issued a state- Love and longing Adil Jussawalla ment from a VLCC at writes that an undisclosed locaBombay is a tion: “I will continue destination of the

to moisturise till the Sensex hits 25,000.

Failing which, I’ll model for the 2015 Speedo Collection. I’ll leave no stone unturned to ensure India’s fiscal stability. Rumours that my deputy KC Chakrabarty resigned three months early since I asked him to take better care of his skin are untrue.”

Meanwhile, government sources confirmed it will continue its policy of not recruiting private sector bankers to the RBI, due to ‘insufficient handsomeness’ and ‘excessive profit-making.’

“The country is running a massive deficit. So are most public sector banks. It makes sense to appoint candidates with greater experience of the problem,” announced the Finance Ministry.

CHOW MIEN IS THE ROOT OF ALL EVIL!

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heart pti / vishal kelkar The Investigator is a fortnightly round-up of all things droll and newsy. Views are personal. Really personal t@shovonc

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at the University of Oxford

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THE CRITICAL ISSUE

Common language When it comes to women’s issues, one quickly realises that while some things may have changed, others haven’t

My story Baby Halder, a domestic worker, is proud that her children can now say, ‘My mother is a writer’ rv moorthy

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URVASHI BUTALIA is an editor, publisher and the director of Zubaan

unita Chaudhury is a smart, young woman — the kind that in today’s vocabulary would be described as ‘kickass’. She’s also Delhi’s first, and at the moment, only female auto driver. I meet her at a women’s college in Delhi; she’s there to participate in a panel discussion to mark International Women’s Day. The panel is unique: apart from Sunita, there are three young women who drive taxis, Shanti, Lalita and Saroj, and Baby Halder, a domestic worker turned writer. Thunderous applause and rhythmic whistles greet their entry on to the ‘stage’ — at their behest, tables and chairs are moved off the raised platform to the floor so they can be closer to the students.

They begin by telling their stories of overcoming the most difficult of odds, of holding on to hope and aspiration at all times, of the occasional bout of despair, the regular fact of violence, and the excitement at feeling a sense of power, whether it comes from holding the handlebars of an auto, the steering wheel of a taxi, or the feel of a pen and notebook.

Sunita raises many laughs when she talks of how she uses the age-old auto-driver tactic of looking at his (actually her) passengers in the rearview mirror and sussing them out. “I can see them trying to figure me out,” she says, “and by the time we are at our destination, we are friends. So what if I did not have regular access to school, I have learnt a lot in the classroom of life.”

Shanti amazes when she describes how, to escape her home and impending marriage, she wrote a letter to a random man she knew, asking if he would be willing to help her get away, and how she then fought him and his family to make her own life. A single mother

today, she looks after her two young children their journeys, the audience — men, women, and earns a living as a taxi driver. young, old — listen in pin drop silence, break Baby is poignant as she speaks of how much into loud appreciation, and many tear up at she wanted to study, what it meant to her to the ways in which our countries have created have an employer who not only considered such intractable borders to keep us apart. her as a human being but encouraged her to At the end of this day-long meeting — from read and write. “My children used to be embar- 10am to 10pm — people make their way home, rassed when they had to describe what their holding dear what they have heard and learnt. mother did for a living. Today, they say with We are high on the joy of International Wompride, ‘My mother is a writer’.” en’s Day, on the sense of a shared history, a There’s a sense of joy and delight in the sense that the women’s movement is finally room, a wonderful camaraderie — despite getting somewhere. class differences, there’s a language in comHalf an hour later, a young German woman mon, a connect that can only be heading home in an auto is assaid to have come because of the saulted by the driver, and then women’s movement. robbed of her handbag by two A few days later, I attend two other men driving past — very meetings: in one, a group of womlikely friends of the driver. Some There’s a sense of en writers from all over India things change and others don’t. camaraderie — a speak about their work and what It strikes me that in many ways connect that can writing means to them. we’ve come a long way. The nature only be said to have There’s joy here too, but also soof the March 8 celebrations shows come because of briety, perhaps because this is a this. We haven’t allowed the the women’s more formal kind of meeting. But ground to be taken over by manumovement it’s clear that despite the opening facturers of cosmetics and washup of spaces for women writers in ing machines. And we’re no the last several decades, the struglonger speaking only to ourselves gle to be taken seriously isn’t over.

— there are men there, young and Most of the writers come from the Indian lan- old, there are families and students and so guages: Tamil, Hindi, Punjabi, Assamese, Ma- many others. rathi, and in each language, the literary There’s celebration. establishment is firmly in the hands of men, But there’s also reality, the shock of rude reusually upper caste men. Women’s admission ality. For despite everything that has hapinto this world is still difficult. pened in the Capital in the last year, a woman At the second meeting, the atmosphere is is still unsafe in public transport in the middle different. There are poets, performers, activ- of the city. This dose of reality is an important ists, dancers from India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, corrective, one we’d do well to remember.

Nepal, Sri Lanka — they call themselves gunehgar auretein, sinful women. As they describe blink@thehindu.co.in

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Easy riders A Day Without Cars in Bogota, Colombia, an initiative to reduce pollution afp/luis acosta

An arty address The five-acre artists’ residency in the village of Kamshet, near Pune, is designed to inspire; and (below) a theatre performance at the recent Kamshet Arts Festival courtesy the company theatre

Shapeshift, is a frequent visitor. Along with Kumar and his actress wife Rachel D’Souza, Saple has played an instrumental role in designing the space. He refers to the area as a “laboratory for new experiments”, which immediately throws up images of a suited-and-booted environment. On the contrary, the sprawling white unit exudes a warmth, making it feel like a home away from home. The drawing room is replaced with a long wooden stage for actors to rehearse and the living room has largely been left bare. A tall stack of checked mattresses heaped in a corner, an equally tall pile of pillows beside it, provide the seating and bedding options. Bookshelves dominated

by Shakespeare’s works are the only ornamentation. “When I saw this property, I had absopleted 21 years. “It came up when I was sitting lutely no money to buy it. So I spoke to many with a friend at his flat in Paris. I remember we artists who very kindly donated their works to were discussing how French theatre artist Ar- me. I auctioned those and used the money to iane Mnouchkine built such an exciting space buy this plot,” says Kumar. somewhere in the middle of the woods (in Drumming up finances, wasn’t the only 1970) and today half of Paris’ theatre commu- challenge. Kumar says he had a rough time convincing the local communidential plaza which was overrun by drug deal- headquartered tyin toNew share their space with city York.

According to him, ers and addicts. He reached out to local the differencedwellers. it would between“We an thought advanced and a leaders involving them in the clean-up. Pena- backward citybelies easier to quality reach out to them in the of its pavelosa says, “We demolished 23 hectares of city, ments. “Citiesbecause had an mind. are only we a means to aopen way of life. more than 600 buildings, and created the In the modernBut there a in lotsmall of aggresworld, onewas lives apartThird Millennium Park, which is a green ref- ments and goes sion.

It took hard work to make home only to sleep.

Most of uge from the chaotic city.” themoutside believethewe were their one’s time is spent house.”

Penalosa built and rebuilt parks, planted friends,” hethe says.

Penalosa was born in USOver but time, raisedthe in more than 1,00,000 trees, constructed “47 su- Colombia. Helocals his hand of went toaccepted Duke University in the per luxury schools in slums and brought in US on a football friendship.

Today, a vischolarship, andthey laterplay to gradthe richest and the best private schools to uate school intal role “I inworked maintaining vast France. hard atthe a hotel manage them”. He built nurseries for children at night, was poor, property and nurturing the guland found how important a under five, and acquired land banks around city can be tomohar oak He trees.

“Evmakeand yousilver happy.” learnt the cities to make them more liveable. As co- much from his erything wecalled wentEnrique through father, also Pefounder and co-president of the Green Party, nalosa, who was makes senseGeneral now. The experiSecretary to the UN’s Penalosa is throwing his hat into the ring for first habitat conference. ence of working here is he incomAs a student, was the office of President of Colombia this year.

It’s justice, like working in obsessed withparable. equality and he says he paradise,” saysdevelopment Saple, who will has came to realise, “economic Many over a few spentsooner long hours atbut thea workcome, or later, good As mayor, Penalosa says he had an space with actors for city canrehearsing make people happier renity functions out of image there. When 85 per cent negative when I came back his play Unself.

So far, of most of thelevels.” visitors have gardless income to India, I realised it was happen- been friends orThe he started out butthat when he already finmembers the theatre compassionof and evangelism for ing in the fieldthe of dance. in theatre, Veenaished, he had highestAnd positive munity. Kumar hasn’tlife setthrough a fee forbetter those using a better cities The difference pani in Chawla’s AdishaktidoLaboratory for the image 2001. “Politicians not Instead, heentire asks friends staying infuses our conversation. between anspace yet.

Theatre Research Pondicherry was also over want to Art govern, theyin want to be a basic coversafood notamount normalthat to create huadvanced and to a pay “It’s doing great work. aware I thought loved,” he says, thatmayhe backward city lies in and costs.where Steady manelectricity environment wedonafear be we always shouldthe start something wasn’t most popular tions from patrons, fans and getting killed.

Bees don’t fearrevegetits pavements similarand in Maharashtra,” Kuleader had to make says difficult nue TCT’snor plays ting generated killed in a from beehive, do mar, who now spends a lot of his decisions like charging taxes.

“A also the space. antshelp in anmaintain anthill. Man is the only I have such fond time at politician the property Kamshet. typical willinwant gasoKumar and of Saple believe a lot animal scared getting killed in memories of sitting Residencies like Adishakti Niline to be cheaper but weorneed more canhabitat,” be achieved at this his own he says.

“Incenadhalf-naked by the nasamtaxes in Karnataka’s Shimoga more on gas. It would be crazy to take vanced countries, tre. They have a romantic of most people killedvision by cars lake and looking at districtaway havefrom for decades providmoney hospitals, parks and low-in- are inside the writers trees cars. Incrouched developingunder countries, it the hills ed a home fortocultural enthusicome housing subsidise cars and roads. Tax- is the pedestrians with pen and paper, actors preand motorcyclists who die,” astsshould to create newbework, attend es at least enough to make public he says. paring for their characters by the workshopsbetter and and interact with It ar-is “completetransport cheaper.” lake, aisfabrication centre where Today, Penalosa back to using the bicycle tistes from other disciplines. ly regressive” that people want cheap fuel and the bus.sets and costumes can be develOccasionally, he might choose a Kumar’s Behrupia, a Hindi adaptaeven when play they Piya are rich enough to own cars. taxi. opedHe and more accommodation artists does not have bodyguards, for a decision tionbelieves of Shakespeare’s Twelfth was conHe that the desires of aNight privileged few for fromwhich various a place for he fields. had to“It’s indemnify the people police ceived and created in this space. “I have such against should not override the convenience of many. seeking liability solace from the heat and “I traffic of the for his security. do have a fond memories sitting lectured half-naked the car, Penalosa, whoof recently on by urban city.but What youuse doitinatanight month youI only orin onMumbai, weekends. lake and looking at the hills,” heasays with a am planning in Chennai, is currently consultant end auppresidential doing in a week here. And supericandidate, andit’s probably, laugh.

Theatre Saple,He a foundon urban vision,director strategySujay and policy. is also will or,” says haveSaple. to have a few (bodyguards) soon.” ing member of The Company Theatre (TCT), President of the board of the ITDP (Institute mohini chaudhuri challapalli whoTransportation has now formed own groupPolicy), called sravanthi for and his Development

Where the road ends A tiny town in the Western Ghats is trans-forming into a laboratory for all things artistic

For people, not cars

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he sleepy town of Kamshet is a threehour drive from Mumbai. As you navigate the bylanes of this town locked between Mumbai and Pune, your phone loses signal, the number of people diminishes, and the occasional bull saunters by. Somewhere deep into the Western Ghats,syou’re vast Penalosa mayorenveloped of Bogotá,by Enrique greenery and the serene waters of travelled in a level-V armoured SUV. the Vadivali And justcity as you Thelake.

Colombian was notorious are nearing deadand end,the a bright foracrime mayor had made yellow-and-black signpost popsdecisions, up many enemies with his radical such on the silent road, welcoming youspaces and as reclaiming Bogotá’s public to TheforCompany Theatre Workroads, people, and not cars.

In office from space — a project by celebrated the1998-2001, Penalosa, best-known for creating atre artist Atul Kumar therapid transTransMilenio, Bogotá’s massinbus neighbouring village of Uksan.

The from his port system, was almost impeached five acre-plot acquired six years campaign. ago position through a signature His is meant Keeping to be a research offence: parked space cars for off sidewalks theatre artists, painters, dancers (parking them there was illegal, anyway). He and instituted writers wanting work on about 40 also car-freetodays, where theircent craft.of the city’s cars were kept off the per Earlier this month, thetheir workroads by rotation based on licence numspacehiked was taxes officially inaugurated bers, on fuel and used some of the with the Kamshet Arts Festival, money to fund TransMilenio. which saw several persons Penalosa believestheatre buses are the best vehicles andmass artiststransit dash down to this vil-metro railfor systems.

“With lage tothe join thepassenger celebration.

The all-night ways, costinper becomes higher event,every attended by over people, with new line and 600 it can’t moveincluded even 10 an Odissi recital by Bijayani of per cent ofdance the population”, he saysSatpathy in an interNrityagram, a performance

by Hindustani voview in Chennai, adding, “TransMilenio moves calist people Manjusha Kulkarni Patil per andkilometre director more (47,000) per hour Atul Pethe’s play Satyashodhak. kicked For off than most subway systems in theItworld.” late evening and continued tillpoor the break of Penalosa, pedestrians and the have as dawn. right “It was beautiful listen Patil’s much tojust the city as theto rich.

He to promotmorning theover sun came upof the nextsoleday. ed cyclingraga andas built 250 km roads Thefor atmosphere so electric.

The event was ly bicyclists was in Bogotá.

Mindsets change organised a lot ofcities. heartBut by the Atulproblem and his only whenwith you change team,” says actress Tillotama with cities is limited spaceShome. and unlimited While Iof worry about my phone with no asrenumber people.

So how can a valuable ception, artistes revel in thatbetween very isoset likethe road spacehere be distributed lation.

For a while now, theatre actors in the pedestrians, bicyclists and cars? region have been choosing to make to For Penalosa the solution liesthe in trek public thistransport remote workspace instead of scouting for and not cars.

“Never, never, has a rehearsal spaces, which are few and far becity solved traffic problems by making tween, in the city. Oftenhighways. they are left no roads or elevated Thiswith is like option but to put rehearse rooftops, trying out a on firebuilding with gasoline.

We whereneed theyurban must roads, outshout honking mutraffic lights,cars, big sidesic from thesecurity neighbourhood gym and the walks, cameras,” he says. sounds of grinders.

Hecement also takes credit for the transforThe mation idea to build workspaceCartucho is as old as of thethis crime-ridden — Kumar’s theatre group, whichfrom recently coma large area two blocks the Presi-

Enrique Penalosa, the former mayor of Bogotá, and a bus and bicycle evangelist, on why a good city can make people happy

Green revolutionary Enrique Penalosa, former Mayor of Bogota, feels fuel should not be made cheaper at the expense of parks and hospitals v ganesan

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Making the sitar sing On Ustad Vilayat Khan’s 10th death anniversary, we celebrate a man of infinite contradictions, who forever changed the sound of the sitar

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y first memory of Vilayat Khan is the Ustad smoking a beedi and gently tapping it against a crystal ashtray. The setting was a private concert in the chic Calcutta apartment of Jayanta Chatterji. The recital was meant to end by dinnertime, but the Ustad had just told the audience that he would play through the night, albeit with intervals. As the audience was still figuring out how to contain its delirium, Khan kept his sitar down and, without stepping off the dais, segued into his first interval of the night by lighting a beedi. I was 10 years old; I couldn’t join the pieces: before me was the maestro who, I had been told, was the greatest instrumentalist alive and here he was, smoking a beedi, on stage, with a vacant

look in his eyes. The crystal ashtray was the ic- ily’ of the instrument. His predecessors had ing on my bewilderment. been custodians of the sitar for five genera He played till about 2:30am. I grasped very tions before him; with each generation, espelittle of his music. I only rememcially in the hands of his grandfather Ustad Imdad Khan, ber he had played Gavati. That was 1994. The maestro lived for anothand father, Ustad Enayat Khan, er decade. Each time I saw him on who was the court musician of Today is your lucky stage, as I moved through school Gauripur (now in Bangladesh), day, you’re listening the sitar evolved significantly in and college, his persona continto Vilayat Khan terms of its musical possibilities. ued to confuse me: grace, etiquette, charm, but from behind In the hands of Ustad Vilayat all of that, a subliminal voice, Khan, though, the sitar took the which always seemed to say to his most definitive leap in its devellisteners: today is your lucky day, you’re listening opment as a musical instrument. Khan not only re-engineered the physical dimensions of to Vilayat Khan.

He perceived himself as a blue-blooded si- the sitar, but also introduced a style that has tar player; as the torchbearer of the ‘First Fam- now become the gold standard for sitar mu-

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When legends meet June 8, 1964 — Ustad Vilayat Khan on the sitar, Ustad Bismillah Khan on the shehnai with Pandit Nikhil Ghosh on the tabla; this was the first time Ustad Vilayat Khan and Ustad Bismillah Khan played together at the Shanmukhananda Hall, Bombay courtesy nayan ghosh

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Star-crossed dressers A medieval Ragamala painting of Radha and Krishna in each other’s clothes courtesy naman ahuja/national museum

sic. Since Khan, hardly any professional sitar player, or for that matter, any professional Hindustani instrumentalist has been able to avoid his influence. This month, as we contemplate the decade we have spent without him, we realise his immortality is defined as much by the music he has left us, as by the widespread adoption of his style by maestros after him.

courtesy jayanta chatterji

Body eclectic

An exhibition in the Capital places Indian art and its experiments with the human body front and centre

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Timeless beauty Naman Ahuja flanked by the ‘Flying Celestials’ from 8th century Madhya Pradesh kamal narang; and (right) the Surasundari from the 10th century Chandela period in Khajuraho courtesy naman ahuja/national museum

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sitar — be it changing its physical dimensions painting changes of to the the birth sitar of toMary, achieve this: based onamong an enor introducing a new style of playing — graving other things, increased theand thickness of by thehe Dutch engraver draughtswooden table on which the stemmed from his simple desire to sing man the tabli (the Cornelis Cort (around 1735). bridge is placed and the worldly strings pass), strengthrough his sitar.

Moving away from incarnations thened the yet joint between the stem the The instrument, as he had inherited it, was of divinity, another section of theand exhibitumba (sound chamber), not built to accommodate the nuances of vo- tion highlights the body narrowed in relationthe to width celesof the stem and exhibit reducedhere theisnumber of calised music, especially seamless multi- tial forms.

A rare the Akbari strings. Nayan Ghosh, aorrare maestro who note meends (glissandi). As Deepak Raja, musi- Tarjama-sirr al-makhtum the Book of Taliscologist and close associate of Khan, says, “He mans, plays the tabla and the with equal comcommissioned bysitar Akbar to map the zowanted to express his vocal vision, but his in- diac, mand and father,sculpture Pandit Nikhil and whose a giant of Ghosh, Shiva strument was a barrier.” So Khan set out to re- manifesting was one of Khan’s closestand aides, CalcuttaVocal influences the cosmos the says planets. instrument maker Kanailal was pivotal The genesis of his playing style can perhaps be engineer the instrument in a way that would based But despite the plenitude of historical arteexecuting changes that traced to the death of his father, when Khan allow him to play vocalised music facts, there’sin room too for athe tight selection of Khan was 11. He had received intensive talim from on the sitar: the ‘gayaki ang’ that contemporary art envisioned. from the studios of Subodh him till then, but for future talim, he was guid- informs, at least to some extent, mostand significant result N, of Gupta, Sheela The Gowda Pushpamala ed less by his uncle Ustad Wahid Khan, who all Hindustani instrumental muthe“Ichanges was that Khan could among others. have also chosen contempoKhan re-engineered five was a sitar player, and more by his maternal sic today. now rary tribal and folkplay meends covering art, because I did not want the sitar to play notes, unbroken of the grandfather, Ustad Bade Hassan Khan and his When it comes to playing voto make a distinction betweenby plucks what is considvocalised music string.contemporary This broughtart hisand music maternal uncle, Ustad Zinda Hassan Khan, calised music on a plucked instruered avant garde the on it closer to vocalised both of whom were vocalists. The influence of ment (as opposed to a bowed living tradition of tribal art,” says music Ahuja. than instrumentalist him.

Hindustani vocal music on Khan, especially of instrument), the fundamental A sublimeany 10th century Cholabefore bronze, of Pandit Arvinddepicts Parikh, his khayal, was tremendous. He has said in several barrier is that the plucking reSaint Manikkavacakar, a seniorfigure most and—lifelong interviews that he was so drawn to khayal that sults in, as Raja puts it succinctly, dressed in the baredisciple essentials perhaps,friend, more says thatthan elements of vocalised were he wanted to be a vocalist. Had it not been for “discontinuity of melody”. The voice can sus- enticing the ornate Nataraja,music included in not section totally on absent fromAnother instrumental his mother Bashiran Begam, who reminded tain a sound over several seconds, but on a the rapture. notablemusic work before Khan. Ragamala “If you listen to theof1904 Surbahim that given his paternal lineage, his first plucked instrument one has to keep striking is the playful painting Radha and har recording of each Jaunpuri by clothes Ustad Imdad duty was towards the sitar, he would have the string to sustain the sound, resulting in Krishna, donning other’s in an Khan, you can hear a small two-note murki.” probably become a vocalist. the discontinuity. The only way around this act of love. and adds, “It’s notsculpture that instruBut his musical vision was infected by impediment was to figure out a way of pro- Ghosh Fromagrees the beautiful sandstone of mentalists never any element of vocal khayal; he could not forsake it. It would not be longing the sustenance of sound through a Surasundari fromplayed 10th century Khajuraho, of before Ustad Vilayat Khan.

Khansaan exaggeration to say that all his work on the single stroke. Khan made revolutionary amusic woman writing a love note afterBut a night of gayaki angback, like hib expanded themarks scopestill of the passion, the nail fresh on her never before. He 9th introduced nuances, espeto a monumental century Naga Deva from cially in his Museum, expressions derived the Bhopal covered in from snakekhayal skin, sculpture of a warrior cutting open University, Delhi, drew upon his familiarity here and thumri, thatexpression no instrumentalist beauty finds in a range before of dishis own stomach as he smiles be- with Indian museums, visited over 20 odd parate him could imagine playing.” And as Khan’s forms. nignly at the viewer is not only an years, to put together this extensive show in a son, maestro Ustad Shujaat Khan says, “Insitar Brussels, the exhibition was appreciated uncommon sight at museums, but record time of one year. “When I was told that I for “Today, no instrumentalist can what imagine a perits aesthetics, but in India, I enjoy is also a rather unconventional way to begin an would have to represent the entire gamut of that formance instrumental music without peopleof will get the story behind the exhibition intended to showcase Indian art. It Indian art, I decided I wouldn’t fall back on the works,” these (nuances).” says Ahuja, as new visitors trickle in. is perhaps, this unusual eye, equipped to spot time-tested chronological method of showing Khan took fierce pride in his lineage, but beis acontradictions, Delhi-based art writer the rare and disconcerting aspects of local art artworks historically. Rather, I wanted to ap- georgina ing a manmaddox of infinite his music proach it thematically, from was not defined by the hidebound world of that sets curator Naman Ahuja apart from others who competed death to rapture. Which is why, I the gharana system. He openly acknowledged chose to explore history through the influence of many vocalists: Ustad Abdul to curate this ICCR exhibition.

One that was destined to travel to the body, because in Indian art, Karim Khan, Ustad Faiyaz Khan, Ustad Abdul the much-talked-about festival, The exhibition looks that is perhaps the most celebrat- Waheed Khan, Ustad Rajab Ali Khan and Ustad Europalia — India 2013-14, where it ed form,” says Ahuja.

Bade Ghulam Ali Khan. He had told Raja that at the body as a The exhibition looks at the he went to Hindustani vocalist Kesarbai Kershowed at the Palais des Beaux source of beauty, as body as a source of beauty, as a kar’s concerts not to listen, but to learn. And Arts in Brussels, Belgium. a shrine, in relation Currently hosted at the Nationshrine, in relation to the larger for Ustad Amir Khan, who was one of his closto the universe al Museum in Delhi (till June 7), universe. The body with all its im- est friends and brother-in-law, the Ustad had ‘The Body in Indian Art’ showcases perfections and flaws. The erotic said to Parikh that 25 per cent of his sitar muundercurrent that marks corpo- sic was influenced by the vocal legend. He also over 300 artworks, sourced from ral interpretations in Indian art is drew from percussive music, particularly 44 museums across the country and attempts to cover the timeline of Indian ever-present as well, but in this instance, it is from tabla maestro Ustad Ahmadjan art history — from ancient to contemporary — not entirely spelt out; giving the viewers, the Thirakwa. through the human body. It also underscores agency to delve through the layers of history His influences were not restricted to Hinvarious belief systems from Hindu, Muslim, and derive their own meanings. dustani music. Jayanta Chatterji once heard Buddhist, Jain and Sikh traditions through “I began with death because I wanted a uni- Khan play a Bengali folk tune that was not part sculptures, paintings, masks and jewellery. versal subject that would draw out the specific of his usual repertoire. The Ustad told him Ahuja, a professor at the Jawaharlal Nehru manner in which Indian culture approaches that he was once a part of a music delegation death. As you see from the rare contemporary that had toured Russia and the legendary folk woodcarving of a Naga Warrior and the Sati singer Nirmalendu Chowdhury was a fellow stones, death is often lionised not just lament- delegate. “He was fascinated by Nirmalendu’s ed,” says Ahuja. A point that is also well illus- music,” says Chatterji, adding, “He told me, trated by other artworks commemorating ‘When the Russian sopranos sang full throttle, death, like an ancient sculpture of Yama, the I wondered if we could give a fitting reply. But god of death, and Lord Buddha’s Pari-Nirvana when Nirmalendu sang, I felt yes, we’re giving that celebrates his ascension to heaven and it back to them.’” He had heard Nirmalendu freedom from the cycle of rebirth. sing the folk song on the Russia tour. He reThe section on birth on the other end of the membered the tune, but not the words. “He spectrum, celebrates the early mother god- told me that I would somehow have to get him dess figurines discovered at Mohenjo-daro the words. I asked him for some clue and he and Harappa as also an extremely rare Indus just said, ‘Well, there is a boat, a tree, a boatmaValley depiction of the eight Shaktis known as n…’ I told him all Bengali folk songs have a the Saptamatrikas. A frieze depicting the birth boat, a tree and a boatman, but he couldn’t of Lord Buddha as well as a Mughal manu- give me more details,” said Chatterji. Many script portraying the birth of Jesus Christ months later, when Khan came to Kolkata and dwells on the notion of miraculous begin- met Chatterji, he hadn’t forgotten the matter. nings. “It is really the story of Mother Mary’s So Chatterji invited Nirmalendu’s son, Utpaimmaculate conception that is celebrated in lendu Chowdhury, to his house so that Khan the nativity, for Mary was also born of Anna, could speak with him. Thankfully, Utpalendu through the Holy Spirit,” says Ahuja. Hence could identify the song (Ore o re sundoira alongside the nativity, there is also a Mughal naower majhi). He sang it and Chatterji noted

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Gurus and shishyas (Clockwise from left) Ustad Enayat Khan with a baby Vilayat Khan in his lap; Arvind Parikh with Vilayat Khan in front of a portrait of Enayat Khan; a rare moment with Vilayat Khan on the sitar and vocalist Ustad Amir Khan playing the tabla

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PICTURE THIS

Living life Queen-size trisha gupta

Like its protagonist, Queen is neither sharp nor sorted, but it’s not pretending to be either

Man of many moods (Clockwise from top) Ustad Vilayat Khan and Ustad Bismillah Khan in Kolkata; with Zakir Hussain; a moment in the sun with Ravi Shankar; enjoying a laugh with the ladies courtesy jayanta chatterji

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can’t quite pinpoint when Queen won me over. Was it the superb dadi, whose enthusiasm for her granddaughter’s wedding is focused on rehearsing her own dance steps? Was it the flashback when Vijay woos Rani, literally encircling her on his bike, overwhelming her with balloons and winsome PJs: “Manchow, Man jao?” Or was it when the now-jilted Rani, having courageously gone on her ‘honeymoon’ by herself, accosts the impossibly long-legged Lisa Haydon with that memorable expression I’ve never heard in a film before: “Aapka bachcha hai? Phir toh bahut hi figure maintain kiya hai aapne!”

But almost everything else about Queen feels like something you’ve seen before. So what’s the big deal?

Sure, Vikas Bahl’s foreign vacation is thankfully not the tourist brochure of Zindagi Na Milegi Dobara, and we’ve finally moved away from the all-boys-trip narrative inaugurated

by Dil Chahta Hai. But the Indian woman transformed by going abroad is not new: she appeared in English Vinglish (2012). In fact, Kangana Ranaut’s sheltered Rani often feels like a younger version of Sridevi’s unworldly Shashi: the halting English, the under-confidence that comes from never having done anything alone, the lack of exposure that the lyrics.

“What is that, later makes everything in fascinating the Westerniscity a potenthat afternoon, he transcribed the Bengali lyrtial culture shock, and yet the innate warmth ics into Urdu inboth his notebook.

Such wasfriends his obthat enables women to make session with detail.

And he performed it in the with a motley international crew. very nextalso concert, with fulloutwardly acknowledgment We’ve seen another demure to Nirmalendu and Utpalendu.

Isn’tthe that huyoung woman travel halfway across world mility? don’t know why peoplelike sawRani him does: as arwith a Itiny bhagwan ki murti rogant,” says in Chatterji.

Diana Penty Cocktail. And even the friendship that develops between Ranaut and Lisa Conceited?

Haydon’s Vijaylakshmi has much in common It is surprising how those close to the with the one between Penty’s Meera andUstad Deeavow that he was not arrogant, while many in pika Padukone’s Veronica.

In Queen too, the the world of Hindustani music thought him ‘good girl’ and the ‘wild child’ forge an unliketo be so. Ghosh, who had seen Ustad is since ly connection, though here thethe equation tiltthe former’s childhood, callsliberation him “authoritared much more towards the of Rani. ian, notVeronica, arrogant”;the Raja calls him “aloof, not arUnlike part-Indian Vijaylakshmi margi — rogant”; says,for “hestability was a “gyan expressesParikh no desire or roots.

The he knew he was the centre of power, but he difference has received applause from expect-

ing. When Parikh asked him to hurry, he said, “Arre, unko baithney do na adha ghanta (Let them wait for half an hour.)”

All his life, he refused all government awards and yet was upset, according to his Bengali autobiography Komal Gandhar, when foot RatPandit Ravi Shankar was given Best the Bharat forward na before him. He says in the book, “(Shankar Kangana and her could have) been very good in fusion music, in multi-cultural dance, in Beatles music, in so many other band of friends the Istreets of things...” and in another place,on “but play the Amsterdam sitar slightly better than he does… and he knows that.” This was an ‘as told to’ autobiogmany of Khan’s close aides, ed quarters. But if it’s Rani who seems the one raphy The and other overly familiar aspect of ChatterQueen is amongstIt’s them, have it. transformed, it’s because this film is her jour- ji itsforemost Dilli punjabiyat. now an discredited industry conwould be naïve to sayLajpat that there no ney. She’s the one to try new things: drinking, But ceit itthat everyone knows Nagar,was Karol between thejust two, uneasiness dancing, but also finding her way around a discomfort Bagh or Rajouri Garden, as an we ‘knew’ Bangoes way to 1952, when from the two, new city — and in one memorable scene, kiss- that dra or Virar.

Theback cinematic journey Oye along Ali Akbar had performing a man she will probably never see again.

Lucky with LuckyUstad Oye (2008) to Khan, Band Baaja Baaraat together at the Constitution in in Delhi.

The drunken woman in Hindi cinema up ed (2010) to Queen might even traceClub a shift selfare —many of erase whatone’s had West hapuntil the ’70s had to be the vamp, like Bindu in There depiction from versions wanting to that day — all broadly imply Vilayat the brilliant disco-lights original of Queen’s pened Delhi roots to claiming Rajouri as that home even overshadowed theBut others with his virtunow iconic remix. ‘Maine hothon se lagaayi toh... Khan in a foreign country. is Bollywood just — but safe to say one got off the for no laughs?

If Vicky Dohungama ho gaya,’ complains Bindu before osity milking Dilliit’s punjabiyat in good nor (2012) andcheer.

Do Dooni Chaar (2010) displayed she’s dragged off by Sanjeev Kumar. Ranaut stage However, ShujaatforKhan insideras affection Lajpatgently Nagar,repriCockdoesn’t inaugurate the era of the tipsy heroine some me, “We should onlytobe“wohi concerned tail’s deprecatory references Lajpat by any means — Deepika Padukone first caught mands music. And that is how should reNagarhismentality” were code for we what Boman my eye by being believably drunk in Love Aaj with him.” As far as thattoishave concerned, Irani’s London-dweller ought left beKal and later, Cocktail, and Mallika Sherawat’s member detractors cannot hind,Khan’s Rani’s worst misidentification of sexquestion toys for drunken sprees in Pyaar Ke Side Effects and Ugly even he owned the sitar like none other. “There fashion accessories — “Yeh toh hamare Lajpat Aur Pagli are legend. But Queen goes further. that notmein a single element sitar playing Nagar mil jayega (Weofcan get this inover our The “yaar” who gets our girl drunk, helping was which he didLajpat not have complete control.

And Nagar)” — is code opaque her up on the bar counter with an his superhuman virtuosity never came at the to her bemused firang companaffectionate push on the behind, cost of an aesthetic melodic compromise,” ions, butoran inside joke for Indian is now the female friend. And says fastest passages, viewers.inIt’shis a wink-wink moment where the original lyrics had one The “yaar” whoGhosh. Even where the mind refuses to believe what the ear at the expense of the middle-class hichki causing a hungama, Queen gets our girl drunk, hearing, is piercing Punjabi, who isbeauty. urbanFew butother not runs with that thought and turns gets her upison the there musicians could strike this balance. quite urbane.

But Ranaut’s brilit into a magnificent tribute to inbar counter, is now often of lasted 14 hours, Through riyaz liant that portrayal good-natured delicacy as a gendered form of the female friend Khan had achieved instrumentalists humourwhat turnsallthe scene from sufreedom. As Rani’s drunken truth aspire to, butperior few succeed: a state where inand knowing into the somegoes: “In India, girls aren’t alwasn’t His son, Shujaat, togoofy be a foreign object and bething and laugh-at-oneself. lowed arrogant.” to burp. Girls aren’t al- has an ex- strument ceases planation foranything.” this dissonance. “He never both- comes an extension ofthat, the eventually, self, as easyisand Perhaps the lowed to do ered to more explain himself. If Rani’s you gotopening him, well a vehicle of expression as the husecret of the film’s appeal: like its protagonist, Even importantly, up malleable and good.

If you didn’t,not toojust bad.

And but he man voice. The Ustad knew, perhaps too well, it’s neither sharp nor perfectly sorted, but it’s to the universe involves herself, couldn’t care less about he or never al- that he had conquered his instrument.

Once, not pretending to be either.

Rani does whatevother people.

Unlike thethat. boysAlso, of DCH ZNMD, lowed too many get tooa close to bond him. when wasnot listening to thin-lipped a playback of his reer shehe does, with the determifor whom travelpeople seemsto merely way to So, only people to know him.” in cording that she he had justbut concluded, heard a nation that must, with a he bumbling with oldfew friends, thereally girls got — Rani, like Shashi Two other factors mightmake havenew contributed where hisshefinger had in in the enjoyment thealap discovery that can. What English Vinglish — actually ones. Di- portion to the way perceived him:ironic his disenThe recording music makes Queen endearingengineer, is precisely this direclightrector Vikaspeople Bahl deals a gently hand slipped. chantment democratic in Hin- tor Tushar Bhatia, gave him an inquiring look. ness, this refusal to underline.

When she rehere: Rani’swith fiance Vijay (theprocesses stellar Rajkumdustani and his discomfort Pandit The Ustad and said, “Let it stay. turns fromsmiled her solo ‘honeymoon’, RaniPeople is still mar Rao,music channelling his Love Sexwith aur Dhokha Ravi Shankar’s greater global popularity. He and know that it’s an insaan playing unselfconsciously carrying a backpack avatar) calls off the shaadi saying he’s changed should did the system ar- not notwithstanda farishta.” marked ‘Vijay’. His But indulgence the weight of it has rolled andnot she approve hasn’t. Itofturns out, forofallgrading his having tistes onLondon All Indiaand Radio.

Hethe thought wasVijay bu- ing, a decade after Vilayat unceremoniously offhis herdeath, back —Ustad leaving in its lived in ‘seen world’,itit’s reaucratic questioned the ability Khan the guardian the sitar. wake remains a young woman’s first,angel quietof victory. who clingsand to fixed notions ofmusical what ‘foreignof awarding theRani, grades.

Parikh ers’those are like — while with whatrecounts starts as an incident supposedsuspends to meet arunabha debisisaawriter Kolkata-based trisha gupta and criticlawyer basedand in Delhi naiveté butwhen turnsKhan intowas conviction, the I&B minister and was deliberately writer t@chhotahazri judgement enough to forge connections.dally- music

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Doffing one’s topi How the Aam Aadmi Party brought the Gandhi topi back into vogue

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n 1919, Mahatma Gandhi decided to fashion a headpiece that would soon become India’s first national headgear. Rejecting the stately turban, the knotty pagdi, and the sola topi for being too British, Gandhi settled on the khadi cap saying, “The khadi cap can be used by all, the rich and poor… that all should have the same kind of cap is worth considering.”

Nearly a century later, the Gandhi topi, which became a symbol for swaraj, was pulled out of the political wilderness when a sea of such topis engulfed Ramlila Maidan in 2011, led by anti-corruption messiahs Anna Hazare and Arvind Kejriwal. As Aam Aadmi Party emerges as the rank outsider and a giant-killer, the topi, with ‘Main hoon aam aadmi’ printed on the sides, has now found a permanent home on the aam aadmi’s crown.

To find the origins of the AAP topis, I travelled to the winding lanes of Nabi Karim in Paharganj, located close to the New Delhi Railway Station. Here in cramped and noisy quarters, migrant workers from Bihar, Jharkhand and Uttar Pradesh work for 12-hour stretches, folding, pressing, stitching, turning out close to 8,000 to 10,000 caps every day. In the neighbouring streets of Sadar Bazar, mounds of these topis sit alongside NaMo and RaGa merchandise. A contractor who supervises one of the sweatshops says, “Business has skyrocketed after AAP. Right now, we are working on an order of 10 lakh caps for an AAP candidate.” At the wholesale market, the humble topi goes for a humble ₹2.50. On the streets though, they are sold for anything from ₹10 to ₹15. kamal narang

Mobile Outsidee headquaa supportt urgent a urgent c

campaign e the AAP aarters in Delhi, tters attend to aand not-soccalls

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United we stand AAP and Samajwadi Party topis being made at Nabi Karim, Paharganj

Sticky affair AAP made the humble broom cool; here a vendor displays broom stickers to a potential customer

‘Cap’ital gains An employee at a store on Qutab Road, Sadar Bazar, arranges Gandhi caps of various political parties

Hand me down A tailor stitches Congress topis in Kila Kadam Sharif, Paharganj, near the New Delhi Railway station

Aap ki topi The topi is a useful signboard for slogans; here a worker sorts through hundreds of them

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Star-crossed dressers A medieval Ragamala painting of Radha and Krishna in each other’s clothes courtesy naman ahuja/national museum

sic. Since Khan, hardly any professional sitar player, or for that matter, any professional Hindustani instrumentalist has been able to avoid his influence. This month, as we contemplate the decade we have spent without him, we realise his immortality is defined as much by the music he has left us, as by the widespread adoption of his style by maestros after him.

courtesy jayanta chatterji

Body eclectic

An exhibition in the Capital places Indian art and its experiments with the human body front and centre

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Timeless beauty Naman Ahuja flanked by the ‘Flying Celestials’ from 8th century Madhya Pradesh kamal narang; and (right) the Surasundari from the 10th century Chandela period in Khajuraho courtesy naman ahuja/national museum

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sitar — be it changing its physical dimensions painting changes to the birth sitar of to Mary, achieve this: of the based onamong an enor introducing a new style of playing — graving other things, increased theand thickness of by thehe Dutch engraver draughtswooden table on which the stemmed from his simple desire to sing man the tabli (the Cornelis Cort (around 1735). bridge is placed and the worldly strings pass), strengthrough his sitar.

Moving away from incarnations thened the yet joint between the stem the The instrument, as he had inherited it, was of divinity, another section of theand exhibitumba (sound chamber), not built to accommodate the nuances of vo- tion highlights the body narrowed in relationthe to width celesstem and exhibit reducedhere theisnumber of calised music, especially seamless multi- of tial the forms.

A rare the Akbari Nayan Ghosh, aorrare who note meends (glissandi). As Deepak Raja, musi- strings.

Tarjama-sirr al-makhtum the maestro Book of Taliscologist and close associate of Khan, says, “He plays tabla and the with equalthe commans,the commissioned bysitar Akbar to map zowanted to express his vocal vision, but his in- mand father,sculpture Pandit Nikhil diac, and andwhose a giant of Ghosh, Shiva strument was a barrier.” So Khan set out to re- was one of Khan’s closestand aides, CalcuttaVocal influences manifesting the cosmos thesays planets. instrument maker Kanailal was pivotal The genesis of his playing style can perhaps be engineer the instrument in a way that would based But despite the plenitude of historical arteexecuting changes that traced to the death of his father, when Khan allow him to play vocalised music facts, there’sin room too for athe tight selection of Khan was 11. He had received intensive talim from on the sitar: the ‘gayaki ang’ that contemporary art envisioned. from the studios of Subodh him till then, but for future talim, he was guid- informs, at least to some extent, most and significant result of Gupta, SheelaThe Gowda Pushpamala N, ed less by his uncle Ustad Wahid Khan, who all Hindustani instrumental muthe“Ichanges was that Khan could among others. have also chosen contempoKhan re-engineered five was a sitar player, and more by his maternal sic today. now rary tribal and folkplay meends covering art, because I did not want the sitar to play notes, unbroken of the grandfather, Ustad Bade Hassan Khan and his When it comes to playing voto make a distinction betweenby plucks what is considvocalised music string.contemporary This broughtart hisand music maternal uncle, Ustad Zinda Hassan Khan, calised music on a plucked instruered avant garde the on it closer to vocalised both of whom were vocalists. The influence of ment (as opposed to a bowed living tradition of tribal art,” says music Ahuja. than instrumentalist him.

Hindustani vocal music on Khan, especially of instrument), the fundamental A sublimeany 10th century Cholabefore bronze, of Pandit Arvinddepicts Parikh, his khayal, was tremendous. He has said in several barrier is that the plucking reSaint Manikkavacakar, a seniorfigure most and—lifelong interviews that he was so drawn to khayal that sults in, as Raja puts it succinctly, dressed in the baredisciple essentials perhaps,friend, more says thatthan elements of vocalised were he wanted to be a vocalist. Had it not been for “discontinuity of melody”. The voice can sus- enticing the ornate Nataraja,music included in not section totally on absent fromAnother instrumental his mother Bashiran Begam, who reminded tain a sound over several seconds, but on a the rapture. notablemusic work before Khan. Ragamala “If you listen to theof1904 Surbahim that given his paternal lineage, his first plucked instrument one has to keep striking is the playful painting Radha and har recording of Jaunpuri by clothes Ustad Imdad duty was towards the sitar, he would have the string to sustain the sound, resulting in Krishna, donning each other’s in an Khan, you can hear a small two-note murki.” probably become a vocalist. the discontinuity. The only way around this act of love. and adds, “It’s not sculpture that instruBut his musical vision was infected by impediment was to figure out a way of pro- Ghosh Fromagrees the beautiful sandstone of mentalists never any element of vocal khayal; he could not forsake it. It would not be longing the sustenance of sound through a Surasundari fromplayed 10th century Khajuraho, of before Ustad Khan.

Khansaan exaggeration to say that all his work on the single stroke. Khan made revolutionary amusic woman writing a Vilayat love note afterBut a night of gayaki angback, like hib expanded themarks scopestill of the passion, the nail fresh on her never before. He 9th introduced nuances, to a monumental century Naga Deva espefrom ciallyBhopal in his Museum, expressions derived the covered infrom snakekhayal skin, sculpture of a warrior cutting open University, Delhi, drew upon his familiarity here and thumri, that expression no instrumentalist beauty finds in a rangebefore of dishis own stomach as he smiles be- with Indian museums, visited over 20 odd parate him could imagine playing.” And as Khan’s forms. nignly at the viewer is not only an years, to put together this extensive show in a son, maestro Ustad Shujaat Khan says, “Insitar Brussels, the exhibition was appreciated uncommon sight at museums, but record time of one year. “When I was told that I for “Today, no instrumentalist can what imagine a perits aesthetics, but in India, I enjoy is also a rather unconventional way to begin an would have to represent the entire gamut of that formance instrumental music without peopleof will get the story behind the exhibition intended to showcase Indian art. It Indian art, I decided I wouldn’t fall back on the works,” these (nuances).” says Ahuja, as new visitors trickle in. is perhaps, this unusual eye, equipped to spot time-tested chronological method of showing Khan took fierce pride in his lineage, but beis acontradictions, Delhi-based art writer the rare and disconcerting aspects of local art artworks historically. Rather, I wanted to ap- georgina ing a manmaddox of infinite his music proach it thematically, from was not defined by the hidebound world of that sets curator Naman Ahuja apart from others who competed death to rapture. Which is why, I the gharana system. He openly acknowledged chose to explore history through the influence of many vocalists: Ustad Abdul to curate this ICCR exhibition.

One that was destined to travel to the body, because in Indian art, Karim Khan, Ustad Faiyaz Khan, Ustad Abdul the much-talked-about festival, The exhibition looks that is perhaps the most celebrat- Waheed Khan, Ustad Rajab Ali Khan and Ustad Europalia — India 2013-14, where it ed form,” says Ahuja.

Bade Ghulam Ali Khan. He had told Raja that at the body as a The exhibition looks at the he went to Hindustani vocalist Kesarbai Kershowed at the Palais des Beaux source of beauty, as body as a source of beauty, as a kar’s concerts not to listen, but to learn. And Arts in Brussels, Belgium. a shrine, in relation Currently hosted at the Nationshrine, in relation to the larger for Ustad Amir Khan, who was one of his closto the universe al Museum in Delhi (till June 7), universe. The body with all its im- est friends and brother-in-law, the Ustad had ‘The Body in Indian Art’ showcases perfections and flaws. The erotic said to Parikh that 25 per cent of his sitar muundercurrent that marks corpo- sic was influenced by the vocal legend. He also over 300 artworks, sourced from ral interpretations in Indian art is drew from percussive music, particularly 44 museums across the country and attempts to cover the timeline of Indian ever-present as well, but in this instance, it is from tabla maestro Ustad Ahmadjan art history — from ancient to contemporary — not entirely spelt out; giving the viewers, the Thirakwa. through the human body. It also underscores agency to delve through the layers of history His influences were not restricted to Hinvarious belief systems from Hindu, Muslim, and derive their own meanings. dustani music. Jayanta Chatterji once heard Buddhist, Jain and Sikh traditions through “I began with death because I wanted a uni- Khan play a Bengali folk tune that was not part sculptures, paintings, masks and jewellery. versal subject that would draw out the specific of his usual repertoire. The Ustad told him Ahuja, a professor at the Jawaharlal Nehru manner in which Indian culture approaches that he was once a part of a music delegation death. As you see from the rare contemporary that had toured Russia and the legendary folk woodcarving of a Naga Warrior and the Sati singer Nirmalendu Chowdhury was a fellow stones, death is often lionised not just lament- delegate. “He was fascinated by Nirmalendu’s ed,” says Ahuja. A point that is also well illus- music,” says Chatterji, adding, “He told me, trated by other artworks commemorating ‘When the Russian sopranos sang full throttle, death, like an ancient sculpture of Yama, the I wondered if we could give a fitting reply. But god of death, and Lord Buddha’s Pari-Nirvana when Nirmalendu sang, I felt yes, we’re giving that celebrates his ascension to heaven and it back to them.’” He had heard Nirmalendu freedom from the cycle of rebirth. sing the folk song on the Russia tour. He reThe section on birth on the other end of the membered the tune, but not the words. “He spectrum, celebrates the early mother god- told me that I would somehow have to get him dess figurines discovered at Mohenjo-daro the words. I asked him for some clue and he and Harappa as also an extremely rare Indus just said, ‘Well, there is a boat, a tree, a boatmaValley depiction of the eight Shaktis known as n…’ I told him all Bengali folk songs have a the Saptamatrikas. A frieze depicting the birth boat, a tree and a boatman, but he couldn’t of Lord Buddha as well as a Mughal manu- give me more details,” said Chatterji. Many script portraying the birth of Jesus Christ months later, when Khan came to Kolkata and dwells on the notion of miraculous begin- met Chatterji, he hadn’t forgotten the matter. nings. “It is really the story of Mother Mary’s So Chatterji invited Nirmalendu’s son, Utpaimmaculate conception that is celebrated in lendu Chowdhury, to his house so that Khan the nativity, for Mary was also born of Anna, could speak with him. Thankfully, Utpalendu through the Holy Spirit,” says Ahuja. Hence could identify the song (Ore o re sundoira alongside the nativity, there is also a Mughal naower majhi). He sang it and Chatterji noted

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Gurus and shishyas (Clockwise from left) Ustad Enayat Khan with a baby Vilayat Khan in his lap; Arvind Parikh with Vilayat Khan in front of a portrait of Enayat Khan; a rare moment with Vilayat Khan on the sitar and vocalist Ustad Amir Khan playing the tabla

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PICTURE THIS

Living life Queen-size trisha gupta

Like its protagonist, Queen is neither sharp nor sorted, but it’s not pretending to be either

Man of many moods (Clockwise from top) Ustad Vilayat Khan and Ustad Bismillah Khan in Kolkata; with Zakir Hussain; a moment in the sun with Ravi Shankar; enjoying a laugh with the ladies courtesy jayanta chatterji

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can’t quite pinpoint when Queen won me over. Was it the superb dadi, whose enthusiasm for her granddaughter’s wedding is focused on rehearsing her own dance steps? Was it the flashback when Vijay woos Rani, literally encircling her on his bike, overwhelming her with balloons and winsome PJs: “Manchow, Man jao?” Or was it when the now-jilted Rani, having courageously gone on her ‘honeymoon’ by herself, accosts the impossibly long-legged Lisa Haydon with that memorable expression I’ve never heard in a film before: “Aapka bachcha hai? Phir toh bahut hi figure maintain kiya hai aapne!”

But almost everything else about Queen feels like something you’ve seen before. So what’s the big deal?

Sure, Vikas Bahl’s foreign vacation is thankfully not the tourist brochure of Zindagi Na Milegi Dobara, and we’ve finally moved away from the all-boys-trip narrative inaugurated

by Dil Chahta Hai. But the Indian woman transformed by going abroad is not new: she appeared in English Vinglish (2012). In fact, Kangana Ranaut’s sheltered Rani often feels like a younger version of Sridevi’s unworldly Shashi: the halting English, the under-confidence that comes from never having done anything alone, the lack of exposure that the lyrics.

“What is that, later makes everything in fascinating the Westerniscity a potenthat afternoon, he transcribed the Bengali lyrtial culture shock, and yet the innate warmth ics Urdu in his notebook. wasfriends his obthatinto enables both women toSuch make session with detail.

And he performed it in the with a motley international crew. very nextalso concert, with fulloutwardly acknowledgment We’ve seen another demure to Nirmalendu and Utpalendu.

Isn’tthe that huyoung woman travel halfway across world mility?

I don’t know why peoplelike sawRani him does: as arwith a tiny bhagwan ki murti rogant,” says in Chatterji.

Diana Penty Cocktail. And even the friendship that develops between Ranaut and Lisa Conceited?

Haydon’s Vijaylakshmi has much in common It is surprising how those close to the with the one between Penty’s Meera andUstad Deeavow that he was not arrogant, while many in pika Padukone’s Veronica.

In Queen too, the the world of Hindustani music thought him ‘good girl’ and the ‘wild child’ forge an unliketo be so. Ghosh, who had seen Ustad is since ly connection, though here thethe equation tiltthe former’s childhood, callsliberation him “authoritared much more towards the of Rani. ian, notVeronica, arrogant”; Raja calls him “aloof, not arUnlike the part-Indian Vijaylakshmi margi — rogant”; says,for “hestability was a “gyan expressesParikh no desire or roots.

The he knew he was the centre of power, but he difference has received applause from expect-

ing. When Parikh asked him to hurry, he said, “Arre, unko baithney do na adha ghanta (Let them wait for half an hour.)”

All his life, he refused all government awards and yet was upset, according to his Bengali autobiography Komal Gandhar, when foot RatPandit Ravi Shankar was given Best the Bharat forward na before him. He says in the book, “(Shankar Kangana and her could have) been very good in fusion music, in multi-cultural dance, in Beatles music, in so many other band of friends the Istreets of things...” and in another place,on “but play the Amsterdam sitar slightly better than he does… and he knows that.” This was an ‘as told to’ autobiogmany of Khan’s close aides, Chattered quarters. But if it’s Rani who seems the one raphy The and other overly familiar aspect of Queen is amongstIt’s them, it. transformed, it’s because this film is her jour- ji itsforemost Dilli punjabiyat. nowhave an discredited industry conwould be naïve to say that there no ney. She’s the one to try new things: drinking, But ceit itthat everyone knows Lajpat Nagar,was Karol between thejust two, an ‘knew’ uneasiness dancing, but also finding her way around a discomfort Bagh or Rajouri Garden, as we Banway to 1952, when from the two, new city — and in one memorable scene, kiss- that dra orgoes Virar.

Theback cinematic journey Oye along with Ustad Ali Akbar Khan,Baaja had performing a man she will probably never see again.

Lucky Lucky Oye (2008) to Band Baaraat together at the Constitution in in Delhi.

The drunken woman in Hindi cinema up ed (2010) to Queen might even traceClub a shift selfare —many of erase whatone’s had West hapuntil the ’70s had to be the vamp, like Bindu in There depiction from versions wanting to that day — all broadly imply Vilayat the brilliant disco-lights original of Queen’s pened Delhi roots to claiming Rajouri as that home even overshadowed others with his virtunow iconic remix. ‘Maine hothon se lagaayi toh... Khan in a foreign country.the But is Bollywood just — but safe to say one got off the for no laughs?

If Vicky Dohungama ho gaya,’ complains Bindu before osity milking Dilliit’s punjabiyat in good nor (2012) andcheer.

Do Dooni Chaar (2010) displayed she’s dragged off by Sanjeev Kumar. Ranaut stage However, ShujaatforKhan insideras affection Lajpatgently Nagar, repriCockdoesn’t inaugurate the era of the tipsy heroine some me, “We should onlytobe“wohi concerned tail’s deprecatory references Lajpat by any means — Deepika Padukone first caught mands music. And that is how should reNagarhis mentality” were code for we what Boman my eye by being believably drunk in Love Aaj with him.” As far as thattoishave concerned, Irani’s London-dweller ought left beKal and later, Cocktail, and Mallika Sherawat’s member detractors cannot hind,Khan’s Rani’s worst misidentification of sexquestion toys for drunken sprees in Pyaar Ke Side Effects and Ugly even he owned the sitar like none other. “There fashion accessories — “Yeh toh hamare Lajpat Aur Pagli are legend. But Queen goes further. that notmein a single element sitar playing Nagar mil jayega (Weofcan get this inover our The “yaar” who gets our girl drunk, helping was which he didLajpat not have complete control.

And Nagar)” — is code opaque her up on the bar counter with an his superhuman virtuosity never came at the to her bemused firang companaffectionate push on the behind, cost of an aesthetic melodic compromise,” ions, butoran inside joke for Indian is now the female friend. And says fastest passages, viewers.inIt’shis a wink-wink moment where the original lyrics had one The “yaar” whoGhosh. Even where the mind refuses to believe what the ear at the expense of the middle-class hichki causing a hungama, Queen gets our girl drunk, hearing, is piercing Punjabi, who isbeauty. urbanFew butother not runs with that thought and turns gets her upison the there musicians could strike this balance. quite urbane.

But Ranaut’s brilit into a magnificent tribute to inbar counter, is now riyaz that often of lasted 14 hours, Through liant portrayal good-natured delicacy as a gendered form of the female friend Khan had achieved instrumentalists humourwhat turnsallthe scene from sufreedom. As Rani’s drunken truth aspire to, butperior few succeed: a state where inand knowing into the somegoes: “In India, girls aren’t alwasn’t His son, Shujaat, be a foreign object and bethingtogoofy and laugh-at-oneself. lowed arrogant.” to burp. Girls aren’t al- has an ex- strument ceases planation foranything.” this dissonance. “He never both- comes an extension the eventually, self, as easyis and Perhapsofthat, the lowed to do ered to more explain himself. If Rani’s you got him, well a film’s vehicleappeal: of expression as the husecret of the like its protagonist, Even importantly, opening up malleable and If you didn’t,not too bad.

And but he man voice. sharp The Ustad knew, perhaps well, it’s neither nor perfectly sorted,too but it’s to thegood. universe involves just herself, couldn’t care less about he or never al- that he had conquered his instrument.

Once, not pretending to be either.

Rani does whatevother people.

Unlike thethat. boysAlso, of DCH ZNMD, lowed too many get too tobond him. when wasnot listening tothin-lipped a playback of his reer she he does, with the determifor whom travelpeople seems to merely a close way to So, only people got to know him.” in cording that she he had justbut concluded, heard a nation that must, with a he bumbling with oldfew friends, thereally girls — Rani, like Shashi Two other factors mightmake havenew contributed where hisshefinger had in inthe enjoyment thealap discovery that can. What English Vinglish — actually ones. Di- portion to the Vikas way people perceived him:ironic his disenThe recording music makes Queen endearingengineer, is precisely this direclightrector Bahl deals a gently hand slipped. chantment democratic in Hin- tor Tushar Bhatia, to gave him an inquiring look. ness, this refusal underline.

When she rehere: Rani’swith fiance Vijay (theprocesses stellar Rajkumdustani and his discomfort Pandit The Ustad and said, “Let it stay. turns fromsmiled her solo ‘honeymoon’, RaniPeople is still mar Rao,music channelling his Love Sexwith aur Dhokha Ravi Shankar’s greater global popularity. He and know that it’s an insaan playing unselfconsciously carrying a backpack avatar) calls off the shaadi saying he’s changed should did the system ar- not His indulgence notwithstanda farishta.” marked ‘Vijay’. But the weight of it has rolled and not she approve hasn’t. Itofturns out, forof allgrading his having tistes onLondon All Indiaand Radio.

Hethe thought wasVijay bu- ing, a decade after Vilayat unceremoniously offhis herdeath, back —Ustad leaving in its lived in ‘seen world’,itit’s reaucratic questioned the ability Khan the guardian the sitar. wake aremains young woman’s first,angel quietof victory. who clingsand to fixed notions ofmusical what ‘foreignof awarding theRani, grades.

Parikh ers’those are like — while with whatrecounts starts as an incident supposedsuspends to meet arunabha debisisaawriter Kolkata-based trisha gupta and criticlawyer basedand in Delhi naiveté butwhen turnsKhan into was conviction, the I&B minister and was deliberately writer t@chhotahazri judgement enough to forge connections.dally- music

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Easy riders A Day Without Cars in Bogota, Colombia, an initiative to reduce pollution afp/luis acosta

An arty address The five-acre artists’ residency in the village of Kamshet, near Pune, is designed to inspire; and (below) a theatre performance at the recent Kamshet Arts Festival courtesy the company theatre

Shapeshift, is a frequent visitor. Along with Kumar and his actress wife Rachel D’Souza, Saple has played an instrumental role in designing the space. He refers to the area as a “laboratory for new experiments”, which immediately throws up images of a suited-and-booted environment. On the contrary, the sprawling white unit exudes a warmth, making it feel like a home away from home. The drawing room is replaced with a long wooden stage for actors to rehearse and the living room has largely been left bare. A tall stack of checked mattresses heaped in a corner, an equally tall pile of pillows beside it, provide the seating and bedding options. Bookshelves dominated

by Shakespeare’s works are the only ornamentation. “When I saw this property, I had absopleted 21 years. “It came up when I was sitting lutely no money to buy it. So I spoke to many with a friend at his flat in Paris. I remember we artists who very kindly donated their works to were discussing how French theatre artist Ar- me. I auctioned those and used the money to iane Mnouchkine built such an exciting space buy this plot,” says Kumar. somewhere in the middle of the woods (in Drumming up finances, wasn’t the only 1970) and today half of Paris’ theatre commu- challenge. Kumar says he had a rough time convincing the local communidential plaza which was overrun by drug deal- headquartered tyin toNew share their space with city York.

According to him, ers and addicts. He reached out to local the differencedwellers. it would between“We an thought advanced and a leaders involving them in the clean-up. Pena- backward citybelies easier to quality reach out to them in the of its pavelosa says, “We demolished 23 hectares of city, ments. “Citiesbecause had an mind. are only we a means to aopen way of life. more than 600 buildings, and created the In the modernBut there was a in lotsmall of aggresworld, one lives apartThird Millennium Park, which is a green ref- ments and goes sion.

It took hard work to make home only to sleep.

Most of uge from the chaotic city.” themoutside believethewe were their one’s time is spent house.”

Penalosa built and rebuilt parks, planted friends,” hethe says.

Penalosa was born in USOver but time, raisedthe in more than 1,00,000 trees, constructed “47 su- Colombia. Helocals his hand of went toaccepted Duke University in the per luxury schools in slums and brought in US on a football friendship.

Today, a vischolarship, andthey laterplay to gradthe richest and the best private schools to uate school intal role in maintaining vast France.

“I worked hard atthe a hotel manage them”. He built nurseries for children at night, was poor, property and nurturing the gul-a and found how important under five, and acquired land banks around city can be to mohar oak He trees.

“Evmakeand yousilver happy.” learnt the cities to make them more liveable. As co- much from his erything wecalled wentEnrique through father, also Pefounder and co-president of the Green Party, nalosa, who was makes senseGeneral now. The experiSecretary to the UN’s Penalosa is throwing his hat into the ring for first habitat conference. ence of working here is incomAs a student, he was the office of President of Colombia this year.

It’s justice, like working in obsessed withparable. equality and he says he paradise,” saysdevelopment Saple, who will has came to realise, “economic Many over a few spentsooner long hours atbut theaworkcome, or later, good As mayor, Penalosa says he had an space withhappier actors for city canrehearsing make people renity functions out of image there. When 85 per cent negative when I came back his play Unself.

So far, of most of thelevels.” visitors have gardless income to I realised it was happen- been friends orThe he India, started out butthat when he already finmembers the theatre compassionof and evangelism for ing in the fieldthe of dance. in theatre, Veenaished, he had highestAnd positive munity. Kumar hasn’tlife setthrough a fee for better those using a better cities The difference pani AdishaktidoLaboratory for the image Chawla’s in 2001. “Politicians not Instead, heentire asks friends staying infuses our conversation. between anspace yet.

Theatre Research Pondicherry was also over want to Art govern, theyin want to be basic coversafood notamount normalthat to create huadvanced and to a pay a“It’s doing work. aware I thought mayloved,”great he says, that he backward city lies in and costs.where Steadywe donamanelectricity environment fear be we always should the start something wasn’t most popular tions from patrons, fans and getting killed.

Bees don’t fearrevegetits pavements similar in Maharashtra,” Kuleader and had to make says difficult nue TCT’snor plays ting generated killed in afrom beehive, do mar, who now spends a lot of his decisions like charging taxes.

“A also the space. antshelp in anmaintain anthill. Man is the only I have such fond time at politician the property Kamshet. typical willinwant gasoKumar and Saple believe a lot animal scared of getting killed in memories of sitting Residencies like Adishakti Niline to be cheaper but weorneed more canhabitat,” be achieved at this his own he says.

“Incenadhalf-naked by the nasam in Karnataka’s Shimoga more taxes on gas. It would be crazy to take vanced countries, tre. They havepeople a romantic of most killedvision by cars lake and looking at district have from for decades providmoney away hospitals, parks and low-in- are inside the writers trees cars. Incrouched developingunder countries, it the hills ed a home fortocultural enthusicome housing subsidise cars and roads. Tax- is the pedestrians with pen and paper, actors preand motorcyclists who die,” asts to create newbework, attend es should at least enough to make public he says. paring for their characters by the workshops and interact with It ar-is “completetransport better and cheaper.” lake, aisfabrication centre where Today, Penalosa back to using the bicycle tistes from other disciplines. ly regressive” that people want cheap fuel and the bus.sets and costumes can be devel-a Occasionally, he might choose Kumar’s Behrupia, a Hindi adaptaeven when play they Piya are rich enough to own cars. oped and more accommodation artists taxi. He does not have bodyguards, for a decision tion of Shakespeare’s Twelfth was conHe believes that the desires of aNight privileged few from various a place for for which he fields. had to“It’s indemnify the people police ceived created in this space. “I have such seeking shouldand not override the convenience of many. solace from and “I traffic of thea against liability for the his heat security. do have fond memories sitting lectured half-naked the city.

Penalosa, whoofrecently on by urban What youuse doitinata night month youI car, but only orinonMumbai, weekends. lake and looking at the hills,” heasays with a end planning in Chennai, is currently consultant doing in a week here. And superiam auppresidential candidate, andit’s probably, laugh.

Theatre Saple, He a foundon urban vision,director strategySujay and policy. is also or,” will says haveSaple. to have a few (bodyguards) soon.” ing member of The Company Theatre (TCT), President of the board of the ITDP (Institute chaudhuri sravanthi challapalli who has now formed own groupPolicy), called mohini for Transportation andhis Development

Where the road ends A tiny town in the Western Ghats is trans-forming into a laboratory for all things artistic

For people, not cars

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he sleepy town of Kamshet is a threehour drive from Mumbai. As you navigate the bylanes of this town locked between Mumbai and Pune, your phone loses signal, the number of people diminishes, and the occasional bull saunters by. Somewhere deep into the Western Ghats,syou’re vast Penalosa mayorenveloped of Bogotá,by Enrique greenery and the serene waters of travelled in a level-V armoured SUV. the Vadivali And justcity as you Thelake.

Colombian was notorious are nearing dead and end,the a bright foracrime mayor had made yellow-and-black signpost popsdecisions, up many enemies with his radical such on silent road, welcoming youspaces and as the reclaiming Bogotá’s public to TheforCompany Theatre Workroads, people, and not cars.

In office from space — a project by celebrated the-for creating 1998-2001, Penalosa, best-known atre artist Atul Kumar therapid transTransMilenio, Bogotá’s massinbus neighbouring village of Uksan.

The from his port system, was almost impeached five acre-plot acquired six years campaign. ago position through a signature His is meant Keeping to be a research offence: parked space cars for off sidewalks theatre painters, dancers (parkingartists, them there was illegal, anyway). He and writers wanting work on about 40 also instituted car-freetodays, where their craft.of the city’s cars were kept off the per cent Earlier this month, thetheir workroads by rotation based on licence numspace was taxes officially inaugurated bers, hiked on fuel and used some of the with Kamshet Arts Festival, moneythe to fund TransMilenio. which saw several persons Penalosa believestheatre buses are the best vehicles and artiststransit dash down to this vil-metro railfor mass systems.

“With lage join inper thepassenger celebration.

The all-night ways,tothe cost becomes higher event, attended by over people, with every new line and600 it can’t moveincluded even 10 an recital by Bijayani of perOdissi cent ofdance the population”, he saysSatpathy in an interNrityagram, a performance

by Hindustani voview in Chennai, adding, “TransMilenio moves calist Manjusha Kulkarni Patil per andkilometre director more people (47,000) per hour Atul play Satyashodhak. kicked For off than Pethe’s most subway systems in theItworld.” late evening and continued tillpoor the break Penalosa, pedestrians and the have of as dawn.

“It was listen Patil’s much right tojust the beautiful city as theto rich.

He to promotmorning theover sun came upof the nextsoleday. ed cyclingraga andas built 250 km roads The atmosphere so electric.

The event was ly for bicyclists was in Bogotá.

Mindsets change organised a lot ofcities. heartBut by the Atulproblem and his only whenwith you change team,” says actress Tillotama with cities is limited spaceShome. and unlimited While Iof worry about my phone with no asrenumber people.

So how can a valuable ception, artistes revel in thatbetween very isoset likethe road spacehere be distributed lation.

For a while now, theatre actors in the pedestrians, bicyclists and cars? regionFor have been choosing to make to Penalosa the solution liesthe in trek public thistransport remote workspace instead of scouting fora and not cars.

“Never, never, has rehearsal spaces, whichproblems are few and far becity solved traffic by making tween, in the city. Oftenhighways. they are left no roads or elevated Thiswith is like option but to put rehearse rooftops, trying out a on firebuilding with gasoline.

We whereneed theyurban must roads, outshout honking mutraffic lights,cars, big sidesic from thesecurity neighbourhood gym and the walks, cameras,” he says. sounds of grinders.

Hecement also takes credit for the transforThe mation idea to build workspaceCartucho is as old as of thethis crime-ridden — Kumar’s theatre group, whichfrom recently coma large area two blocks the Presi-

Enrique Penalosa, the former mayor of Bogotá, and a bus and bicycle evangelist, on why a good city can make people happy

Green revolutionary Enrique Penalosa, former Mayor of Bogota, feels fuel should not be made cheaper at the expense of parks and hospitals v ganesan

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What a wild trip Ranjit Lal is spot on in his animal caricatures

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hen Rana Shaan-Bahadur accidentally catches notorious poacher Khoon-Pyaasa in his own trap, video footage of this fortuitous stunt goes viral and the alpha-male tiger of Sher-Kila National Park climbs to new heights of fame and conceit. While changing his profile photo on Facebook every half hour, Shaan-Bahadur romances all the voluptuous tigresses and makes enemies of all the other tigers in the park. With echoes of Alex the lion from the Madagascar films, Shaan-Bahadur is a tiger thoroughly absorbed with himself.

Soon, his first and main squeeze, RaatKi-Rani gives birth to four cubs — the annoying duo of Hasti and Masti, lazy Zafraan and a clumsy Phasti. As the cubs begin to learn to hunt, the butter-fingered Phasti is surprisingly a born-huntress, enemies quickly gather around their idyllic hideout. The dreaded AlSeekh-Kebab Atankwad Andolan (ASKAA) is in hot pursuit, as are the Giggler hyenas and the vultures led by Diclo and Fenac.

Meanwhile, Shaan-Bahadur’s vanity suffers a few blows as worldwide interest in him dips.

Replete with a cast of Tigers of the characters from Taboo Valley a modern-day Ranjit Lal Red Turtle sanctuary, the ₹295 book humorously captures the harsh realities of the wild.

On one hunting lesson, the majestic Raat-ki-Rani is shot by Khoon-Pyaasa, leaving the cubs to fend for themselves.

Luckily, Shaan-Bahadur runs into his babies and an unfamiliar fatherly sensation awakens in him. The proud tiger’s transition to responsible fatherhood is a little dubious. Picking them up, he heads to the fearsome Taboo valley with trusted aide Naradmunni, as his enemies continue to look for him and the cubs. As the action shifts to the valley, the plot hurtles towards a final confrontation, spurred on by Ranjit Lal’s superb comic timing.

Lal’s Tigers of the Taboo Valley is highly recommended reading while on any sort of wildlife trip — be it chasing truant leopards in small towns or hunting deadly man--eaters on elephants in jungles. It’s difficult to find an unlikeable character in this rib-tickling animal caper. Lal is spot on in his portrayals of scheming porcupines, oily hyenas, watchful vultures, arrogant tigers and greedy poachers. Can’t wait for Tigers of the Taboo Valley 2.

Making the sitar sing anita roy

ON THE SHELF

Not just for kids

On Vilayatfiction Khan’s 10th deaththat anniversary, welook celebrate a man of TheUstad best crossover helps us realise grown-ups don’t like grownups on the inside infinite contradictions, who forever changed the sound of the sitar

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dults reading children’s books are notmemory a recentof phenomenon. y first Vilayat Khan is But years back, they the about Ustad 14 smoking a beedi and started to do soit in such avast gently tapping against crysnumbers that a new term had towas be aintal ashtray.

The setting privented for in it and newCalcutta genre was born: vate concert the achic apartment crossover fiction. The In the wake Harry to of Jayanta Chatterji. recital wasofmeant Potter, publishers suddenly woke up to end by dinnertime, but the Ustad had just told fact that there were books out therethe thethe audience that he would play through that albeit appealed much to As grown-ups as night, withasintervals. the audience ‘young they’reitsnow waskids still(or figuring outadults’ how toas contain deliriknown), and with a bitdown of clever um, Khan kept his sitar and,marketwithout ing, they havesegued two bites the ap-instepping offcould the dais, intoofhis first ple.ofPhilip Pullman’s His Dark Materials terval the night by lighting a beedi.

I was 10 trilogy, Haddon’s Curious Inci-me years old; IMark couldn’t join theThe pieces: before the Dog who, in theINight-time, Stephanie wasdent theofmaestro had been told, was the Meyers’instrumentalist Twilight books and Col-he greatest aliveSuzanne and here lins’ Hunger aGames seemed to herwas, smoking beedi,series on stage, with a vacant ald a new era of publishing. Suddenly, everyone was on the look out for books that offered adults the racy plotlines, fantastical worlds and moral comforts of children’s literature, and books for kids that were brilliantly written (er, okay, Stephanie Meyers, please excuse), morally complex and imaginatively conceived.

A similar phenomenon can be seen in children’s films: since the release of Toy Story in 1995, there have been a slew of films, not only from Pixar, but other studios who realise that adults can love watching children’s films just as much as kids — the stand-out being Martin Scorcese’s Academy Award-winning adaptation of Brian Selznick’s graphic novel, The Invention of Hugo Cabret.

The seven-year-old narrator of Neil Gaiman’s utterly lovely The Ocean at the End of the Lane has a typical child’s-eye view of the world of adult literature: “Adult stories never made sense, and they were so slow to start. They made me feel like there were secrets, Masonic, mythic secrets to adulthood. Why didn’t adults want to read about Narnia, about secret islands and smugglers and dangerous fairies?”

The short answer is, of course, adults do like to read about Narnia and secret islands and dangerous fairies, as Gaiman’s own massive fan following testifies.

Appearances are deceptive, and ordinary kids turn out to be something quite other: wizards, vampires, spies, demigods and shape-changers. Another great crossover book, MJ Palacio’s heartbreak-

look in his eyes. The crystal ashtray was the ic- ily’ of the instrument. His predecessors had ing on my bewilderment. been custodians of the sitar for five genera He played till about 2:30am. I grasped very tions before him; with each generation, espelittle of his music. I only rememcially in the hands of his grandfather Ustad Imdad Khan, ber he had played Gavati. That was 1994. The maestro lived for anothand father, Ustad Enayat Khan, er decade. Each time I saw him on who was the court musician of Today is your lucky stage, as I moved through school Gauripur (now in Bangladesh), day, you’re listening the sitar evolved significantly in and college, his persona continto Vilayat Khan terms of its musical possibilities. ued to confuse me: grace, etiquette, charm, but from behind In the hands of Ustad Vilayat all of that, a subliminal voice, Khan, though, the sitar took the which always seemed to say to his most definitive leap in its devellisteners: today is your lucky day, you’re listening opment as a musical instrument. Khan not only re-engineered the physical dimensions of to Vilayat Khan.

He perceived himself as a blue-blooded si- the sitar, but also introduced a style that has tar player; as the torchbearer of the ‘First Fam- now become the gold standard for sitar mu-

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Age no bar Readers, young and old, pore over the same book with equal interest r ashok

ingly brilliant Wonder, turns that trope world.” on its head: the entire book is a journey It takes skill bordering on genius to to see beyond the extraordinary looks of say so much with such simplicity. As a the lead character (a young boy with se- writer who brings the same depth of vere facial deformities) to see the lovely, thought and skill to his writing, whether and very ordinary, extraordinary child he for children, teens or grown-ups, Gaiman is inside. would approve, I think, of the French In Gaiman’s The Ocean..., the young writer Michel Tournier’s words: “Someboy encounters three women (Lettie, times I apply myself so well and have so who is 11, her mother and grandmother) much talent that what I write can also be who he soon realises are not quite the read by children. When my pen is less simple Sussex farming famlucky, what it writes is only ily they appear to be. good enough for adults.”

“You aren’t people,” I said.

The great appeal of cross“Are too.” over fiction lies right there, The truth is, there I shook my head. “I bet you in stories like Neil Gaiman’s, aren’t any growndon’t actually look like that,” that remind us of the child ups. Not one, in the I said. “Not really.” that we still are, never mind whole wide world Lettie shrugged. “Nobody the grey hair and the crow’s looks like what they really feet around our tired eyes. are on the inside. You don’t. I Just like the vast swell of the don’t. People are much more mysterious ocean that is complicated than that. It’s true of contained in one small duck pond, apeverybody.” pearances are deceptive. Ultimately, the She goes on to elaborate: “Grown-ups very best crossover fiction is not so much don’t look like grown-ups on the inside about what it’s like to be a child, or an either. Outside, they’re big and thought- adult, but what it is to be human at all. less and they always know what they’re doing. Inside, they look just like they al- anita roy is a writer and director of Young ways have. Like they did when they were Zubaan anita@anitaroy. net your age. The truth is, there aren’t any grown-ups. Not one, in the whole wide

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When legends meet June 8, 1964 — Ustad Vilayat Khan on the sitar, Ustad Bismillah Khan on the shehnai with Pandit Nikhil Ghosh on the tabla; this was the first time Ustad Vilayat Khan and Ustad Bismillah Khan played together at the Shanmukhananda Hall, Bombay courtesy nayan ghosh priyanka kotamraju

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Poets as neighbours Adil Jussawalla’s essays and entertainments sparkle with a poet’s insight and an editor’s sweep of knowledge

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he journalistic obsession with international reputations and publishers’ advances has produced a top-heavy history of India’s literature in English. Such well-remunerated figures as Salman Rushdie, Vikram Seth and Arundhati Roy are in fact exceptions. Once we get away from the bestsellers and prize-winners, Indian English literature turns out to be an embattled, minority literature. It relies for its survival on a small number of publishers and its most original writers are constantly in danger of being forgotten.

This is truest of poetry, which has made few people famous and no one rich. Adil Jussawalla’s name belongs in this “little tradition” of writers with a pan-Indian readership of a few thousand people at most, the work of jobbing journalists and overworked college lecturers.

Jussawalla had an auspicious start with his precocious first collection of poetry, Land’s End (1962) published when he was 22. This was followed by the darker, more alienated, poems of Missing Person (1976), written on his return from England to India. There was a long poetic silence broken in 2012 with the publication of a fine new collection, Trying to Say Goodbye.

Soon after came a collection for children, The one remembered the money for weeks.

Luckily, there was food, so I survived.”

“Why didn’t you leave after that?”

“There was constant supply of food. It was a very safe environment. Ultimately behen-ji discovered me, and said, ‘what are you doing there, come out,’ but I said, ‘no, there are sandwiches here.’ She kept telling me but I kept refusing. After a while she gave up. In time, she grew fond of me and even got me sandwiches. My favourite is Chicken Takatak.”

“What made you change your mind?” I ask.

“It was Mulayam-ji. Earlier there was no opportunity for the youth. But under

Jussawalla was, Pinto tells us, the editor of Right Kind of Dog and Other Poems (2013).

The renaissance continues with the publica- “some of the most exciting books pages we tion of a new collection of Jussawalla’s prose. have seen”, at the Indian Express and later at Prefaced with a chatty introduction by Jerry that late lamented magazine of sophisticated Pinto, this brings together a wide range of Jus- smut, Debonair. In a 1992 essay for an early issawalla’s writings on his home city of Bom- sue of the also-lamented Indian Review of bay/Mumbai, books, travel, visual art and Books, he set out his editorial philosophy with politics. These extend from his punchy de- the succinct statement: “I believe it would do fence of Salman Rushdie against those who us reviewers a great deal of good if we realised sought to ban The Satanic Verses to his notes on we’re not giants; some of the authors we reexhibitions by eminent Indian artists. His es- view are.” On the evidence of this volume, Jussays on FN Souza and Bhuper Khakhar are su- sawalla was anything but silent in the years perbly well-informed about their between his collections of poetry, supporting art-historical context, but Jussawalla retains himself with a tireless regime of teaching and the rare capacity to be surprised by an individ- journalism. But the short prose works collectual artwork and to subjugate his critical ego in ed here are too affable, too reasonable, too full the face of artistic talent. of uncertainty, to sustain an image of him as a Some pieces, discursive meditations on literary giant of the traditional sort.

As with any collection of journalism, there himself and his surroundings, simply defy generic classification. In the title essay, the poet’s is a certain unevenness; some of his topical meanderings through South Mumbai have references will baffle his younger readers (of SHOVON CHOWDHURY is a healthy number with him confront in turn the architecture of the whom he has acquired chief Truth digger and authorof Asiatic Library, an old vegetarian restaurant, his two recent publications).

But Jussawalla at The Competent Authority activists at the World Social Forum shopping his best is very good indeed. He is an incisive for goods at a Chinese market, and banners critic, cutting to the heart of the matter with a management, youth flourishing. remark, as whenare he writes that VS Naiannouncing a Shiv Sena rally. “How many timehis telling very great up-to-date the latest news. themeonis “civilizations and their zones have I crossed and re-crossed in the lastI’mpaul’s Arnab speaks on for TV, the evenvivid through lies”.

He has a knack analogy, as hour,” he wonders, “how many centuries?” When thewhen handbag, I can hearthe it all.

The other day, he describes multilingual Indian as I heard Mulayam-ji’s nephew Aditya Yadav “made from pieces of a linguistic jigsaw in haswhich become the chairman of theinvariably UP Pra- lock shades of one language deshik Co-operative in with the coloursFederation, of another”.a 5,000crore There company gives loans to farmers. are that a few argumentative pieces, as He is 25. Earlier such a kind thingofwouldn’t have when he defends literary cosmopolibeen possible.

They would have been preju-of the tanism against the ‘nativist’ position diced in favour ofBhalchandra qualifications and expeMarathi critic Nemade.

In Jussarience.

Of course, first Mulayam-ji has to dewalla’s hands, ‘nativism’ is a respectful arrange for hisofnephews.

Once all of them not a scription a legitimate position, are pejorative, arranged, I’m sure he’ll look other and receives notafter condescension youth. prefer something in tourism.” but I’d discussion.

As he writes in a different esI say, wishithim thebe best, butthat I fear his dreams might true a poet does well to maythink be dashed.

In the of himself asprocess, writinghe forwill hislearn neighbour, a simple truth.

Once you leave limits Mayawati’s but why place geographical on who can handbag, there is no goingInback. count as a neighbour? his words, “a shared language of poetry makes for the best neighbours of all.”

Jussawalla’s other accidental vocation has been that of an archivist, and preserver of memories. There is an affecting tribute to the forgotten IndoIrish novelist Aubrey Menen, and several allusions to the How many time scientific study conducted cheek’ and ‘leaving novelisthouse Victor without Anant whose zones have I crossed across 16 villages in Haryana permission.’

The Revolving Man is said to be a and re-crossed in the has confirmed what khap pan“This study haspioneering grave sociological im-of Brittreatment last hour, he noted sociologist S Padchayats have been saying for plications,” said ish racism.

Further, Jussawalwonders, how many some time. The survey covered over one manabhan, “It means, we arresthouses la’s flatunless in Mumbai centuries of Yo China, conse1,000 men, each of whom owns at least the rapid growthhundreds of the files of corredisastrous.generated We are also one buffalo. The respondents were divid- quences could bespondence

by Cleared into ‘good’ and ‘evil’. About 84 per vulnerable to infiltration by female Chiing House, the co-operative nese chefs,publishing who combine both pricent of those classified as ‘good’ collective he was demonstrated a strong dislike of mary sources eviltoin1984, one lethal involved with from of 1976 which pubwe havebut been Chinese food. Responses to chow lished package. his own Already, Missing Person, also the receiving disturbing mien were particularly negative, work of the other poets involvedreports with the profromPatel, the Ladakh It Mehrotra was ob- and the number one reason being, ject: Gieve Arvindsector.

Krishna that the op- that ‘keeps slipping through fingers’. In Arun Kolatkar. Is served it too much to hope contrast, 96 per cent of ‘evil’ reposing forces havefind its some of this correspondence too will unusually highmight spondents confirmed that their editor someday? an Indian English poets of femaletaste, of- but evil-doing was caused by wombe doomed to proportion remain a minority ficers. Iftosome of them can en. Methods employed by womthey do not deserve be forgotten. cook, our boys will be en for this purpose included nakul krishna is pursuing a doctorate in philosophy ‘showing ankle’, ‘revealing defenseless.”

I WAS TRAPPED IN MAYAWATI’S HANDBAG! Maps for a Mortal Moon Adil Jussawalla Aleph Non-Fiction ₹495

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fter seven years without sunlight, his skin is pale and waxy.

He seems impossibly small for a 25-year-old. His body is shrunken from years in the dark. But otherwise he seems in good spirits.

“How did this happen?” I ask him.

“I was sweeping behen-jis room when I got hungry. I know she keeps food in her bag. She believes in being prepared at all times. While investigating the handbag, I fell in. There were sandwiches. I ate one. It was very good. Meanwhile, someone garlanded behen-ji with ₹1,000 notes, which she deposited in her bag. Trapped under a pile of currency, I was unable to escape. No

MARKETS STABILISE AFTER RAGHURAM RAJAN GETS A FACIAL!

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omen and financial analysts rejoiced after Reserve Bank Governor Raghuram Rajan underwent a minor cosmetic procedure yesterday evening. Rumours that he was becoming less handsome have caused tremors on Dalal Street, and softened the rupee. “We were watching him on TV last week. My wife was very concerned,” said Ketubhai Parekh, a trader in Ghatkopar. “She thought she saw a blemish on his cheek. I immediately sold 50 per cent of my holdings and bought a palace in Kensington.”

To bolster sentiment, Love and longing Rajan issued a stateAdil Jussawalla ment from a VLCC at writes that an undisclosed locaBombay is a tion: “I will continue destination of the

to moisturise till the Sensex hits 25,000.

Failing which, I’ll model for the 2015 Speedo Collection. I’ll leave no stone unturned to ensure India’s fiscal stability. Rumours that my deputy KC Chakrabarty resigned three months early since I asked him to take better care of his skin are untrue.”

Meanwhile, government sources confirmed it will continue its policy of not recruiting private sector bankers to the RBI, due to ‘insufficient handsomeness’ and ‘excessive profit-making.’

“The country is running a massive deficit. So are most public sector banks. It makes sense to appoint candidates with greater experience of the problem,” announced the Finance Ministry.

CHOW MIEN IS THE ROOT OF ALL EVIL!

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heart pti / vishal kelkar The Investigator is a fortnightly round-up of all things droll and newsy. Views are personal. Really personal t@shovonc

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at the University of Oxford

getaway talk

saturday, march 29,29, 2014 saturday, march 2014

Close encounters

TRAVEL LOG

THE CRITICAL ISSUE

Visit

This summer. Although the peak tourist season winds up

by March, big cats are best spotted in the heat, when dry brush aids higher visibility.

Common language

Earning one’s stripes in Kipling country and building new bonds with the gentle giant Tara Get there Jabalpur (3 hours’ drive) is the When it comes to women’s issues, one quickly realises that while some things may have he elephant is lying in the shallow chital graze, their backs as if flecked with nearest airport and railhead. of the Banjar river. My chil- snow. These are areas where Baiga villages changed, water others haven’t There are daily direct flights on SpiceJet

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dren have selected stones from its once flourished; their inhabitants were forcifrom Delhi and Mumbai and good sandy banks and are scrubbing her bly removed in the 1970s. overnight train services. You can also fly back. They push at her thick hide with all their It is at the edge of one of these maidans that to Nagpur or Raipur, 5.5 hours away. strength, sometimes double-handed, then we see our tiger. He’s a handsome young male splash water where they have scrubbed. So ab- and we find him lying immaculately camouCheck in sorbed are they in their project that they bare- flaged in dried brush close to the road. We Kipling Camp’s cottages are ly speak. gaze at him, mesmerised. As more and more whitewashed with pitched tiled This is Tara, a most venerable elephant — jeeps pull up for his darshan, he couldn’t be roofs in the local style. They star of the 1991 book Travels on My Elephant by less concerned, surveying us all with nonchahave wide verandahs and spacious Mark Shand, and long-term resident of Ki- lance, if not disdain. After about five minutes bathrooms. Furnishings are in handloom pling Camp. My children only met her yester- he stands and saunters off, crossing the road or block-printed fabrics. Indian lunches day but already strong bonds of affection have between jeeps ahead of us. He moves into a under the mahua tree are excellent; formed. “I’m just going to check on Tara…” copse of trees and vanishes into the grass. continental dinners in the Shamiana, less says my daughter as she dashes away, again, “You know,” says my daughter, “even when exciting (from ₹6,500 per person per from lunch under the mahua tree. we don’t see a tiger, it’s still lovely... There are night, all-inclusive, except bar and jeep We have come to spend time in so many other animals.” She is hire; kiplingcamp.com).

Kanha, at about 940sq km, one of right. We see gaur munching at You can also try Kanha Earth Lodge the largest of India’s national their cud, wild boar startled from (from ₹14,000, exclusive of food and parks. I arrive with doubts about a mud wallow, the lumbering We find ourselves in safaris; kanhaearthlodge.com) or Muba at how the children (eight and 10) rumps of two sloth bears like a kind of jungle Mukki (from ₹2,600, exclusive of safaris; will cope with the long game smudges in the distance, sambar cathedral with drives, remembering a trip to deer close enough to note the fadmubaresorts.com). bamboo arching Ranthambore years ago when ed black stripes on the backs of loftily over us tip considerable effort was required their ears, the white piping A limited number of to keep my youngest from leaping around them and the tear drop My story Baby out of the jeep. Enthusiastic pracjeeps are allowed into the park at any one marking under their eyes.

Halder, a domestic tising of alarm calls on one game And we see amazing birds: a time, so book ahead. After wrestling with worker, is proud drive ensured that we saw not a squirrel. flash of red and gold as four scarlet minivets the MP government website that her children Not so this time. The children are deeply en- dart across a patch of cerulean sky; a crested (mponline.gov.in/portal/Services/Forest/ can now say, ‘My gaged by the wildlife and ask lots of questions hawk eagle with a punk hairstyle motionless is a writer’ Search.aspx),mother we suggest you let your rv moorthy of our excellent guide Rahim. According to on the branches of a dead tree; a green bee-eathotel do this for you. Afternoon drives are African safari specialist Robert Ferguson they er flying from his branch and returning to it shorter than the morning’s, and probably are at an ideal age, “In general, tweens (8 to 12) repeatedly, as if unable to decide on a course better for children, but at Kipling they Chaudhury is a smart, young— matoday,ofshe looks her two youngof children areunita a guide’s most rewarding audience their journeys, the Tara’s audience men,(Children women, action, orafter possibly in pursuit a bee. conflict with bath— time. woman — to the kind facts that in today’s vo- and earns livinglisten: as a taxi ture enough absorb and ask questions, young, old — listen in pin drop silence, break Weaalso to driver. birdsong (Rahim does under five are not allowed in the park.) wouldto bebe described as ‘kickis poignant she speaksbirds of how much conyetcabulary young enough enthralled,” he says. Baby into loud appreciation, and many tear up at such excellentas imitations, actually ass’. She’s also Delhi’s first, andsal attrees the and she wanted to study, meant toofher to the ways in which our countries have created Kanha is beautiful.

Its towering verse with him), what to theitalarm call a sambar moment, female auto I meet her have or anaemployer who not of only lush only bamboo seem to driver. complement eachatother such intractable borders us apart. langur. And learn: theconsidered friendship beKipling Camp, in to thekeep park’s buffer zone, is a women’s college in Delhi; she’s we there toourselves par- her as a human being encouraged herthe totiger At part perfectly.

A couple of times find the end of forest this day-long meeting — from tween langur and but chital, of the tricks of the too, its whitewashed cottagticipate a panel to markwith Internaread and “My children to be embarin ainkind of discussion jungle cathedral bamboo 10amestoare 10pm — people makesal their wayand home, playswrite. in pursuit of theused allegedly dim-witted scattered among trees there is tionalarching Women’s Day.over us stretching as far as the rassed when they hadsurvival to describe whatbarasingha their holding loftily dear whatfence. they have heard andthrough learnt. the sambar, of the of the no boundary Chital spring Theeyepanel is unique: Sunita, mother didnear for aextinction living. Today, theytheir say with can see.

In manyapart parts,from the forest opens We are high the joy ofthe International deer... in 1970, numbers camp oron pause near waterhole; Wompugmarks thereout areinto three young womenorwho drive — taxis, pride,have ‘My mother is a 66 writer’.” wide meadows maidans reminisen’s indicate Day, on the of apassed sharedbyhistory, a risen from to around 500. Kanha is thatsense a leopard in the night.

Shanti, Lalita and Saroj, and Baby—Halder, do- of There’s a sense of joy stronghold. and delight in the sense that cent of African grasslands whereaherds the women’s movement is — finally their last remaining Named after Rudyard Kipling who set mestic worker turned writer. Thunderous ap- room, a wonderful camaraderie — despite getting somewhere. many of his Jungle Book stories hereabouts plause and rhythmic whistles greet their entry class differences, there’s a language in comHalf an hour later, a young German (without ever visiting) — the campwoman was opened on to the ‘stage’ — at their behest, tables and mon, a connect that can only be heading home in Wright an autofamily is as-from in the 1980s by the British chairs are moved off the raised platform to the said to have come because of the saulted the driver, Calcutta.

BelindabyWright went and on tothen become floor so they can be closer to the students. women’s movement. her handbag by two one of robbed India’sofforemost conservationists, They begin by telling their stories of overA few days later, I attend two other men driving past Society — veryof Infounding the Wildlife Protection coming the most difficult of odds, of holding meetings: in one, a group of womlikely friends of the driver.

Some Not surprisingly, the conservation There’s a sensedia of in 1994. on to hope and aspiration at all times, of the en writers from all over India change and others don’t. guzatthings Kipling is strong.

No resource camaraderie —ethos a occasional bout of despair, the regular fact of speak about their work and what strikes me want that intomany zling poolIthere; if you swim,ways swim in connect that can violence, and the excitement at feeling a sense writing means to them. we’ve come a long way.

The nature the river with Tara.

(You “tread softly in the only be said to have of power, whether it comes from holding the There’s joy here too, but also soof theatMarch 8 celebrations shows but zero cost to your comfort.) come because jungle,” of handlebars of an auto, the steering wheel of a briety, perhaps because this is a this. We withhaven’t Tara andallowed seeing a the tiger at the women’s Swimming taxi, or the feel of a pen and notebook. more formal kind of meeting. But ground to be taken over manu- of are undoubtedly theby highlights movement close range Sunita raises many laughs when she talks of it’s clear that despite the opening cosmetics and washour trip.facturers But afterofour tiger encounter on the how she uses the age-old auto-driver tactic of up of spaces for women writers in And we’re first day,ing andmachines. a fleeting glimpse of oneno on the looking at his (actually her) passengers in the the last several decades, the strugspeaking onlySomehow to ourselves second,longer we don’t spot more.

I feel it rearview mirror and sussing them out. “I can gle to be taken seriously isn’t over. there are men there, young and is a good—lesson, a humbling, not always to see. see them trying to figure me out,” she says, Most of the writers come from the Indian lan- old, there students so our Lateare on families our finaland afternoon weand are on “and by the time we are at our destination, we guages: Tamil, Hindi, Punjabi, Assamese, Ma- manyway others. back from a remote area of the park. It is are friends. So what if I did not have regular ac- rathi, and in each language, the literary There’s celebration. shadowy under the massive trees and we’vecess to school, I have learnt a lot in the class- establishment is firmly in the hands of men, Buthad there’s also the shock of rude to pull onreality, extra layers.

Rahim hearsreit first, room of life.” usually upper caste men. Women’s admission ality.and Forhalts despite everything that hasFor hapthe jeep, all senses keen. as long Shanti amazes when she describes how, to into this world is still difficult. pened Capital year, a listening woman for asin wethe can, we sitin inthe thelast shadows, escape her home and impending marriage, At the second meeting, the atmosphere is is stillthe unsafe in public transport in the middle if tiger’s intermittent growl, wondering she wrote a letter to a random man she knew, different. There are poets, performers, activ- of the dose reality is an important hecity. willThis come ourofway. asking if he would be willing to help her get ists, dancers from India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, corrective, one we’d remember.

He doesn’t in do thewell end.to But just to hear him is away, and how she then fought him and his Nepal, Sri Lanka — they call themselves gunehmore than enough for me. family to make her own life. A single mother gar auretein, sinful women. As they describe blink@thehindu.co.in charty dugdale is a Delhi-based travel and art writer

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Mammoth effort Giving Tara a good scrub in the Banjar river charty dugdale

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URVASHI BUTALIA is an editor, publisher and the director of Zubaan

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The memory keepers Mango people’s drink

uct’s marketing and distribution. He decided to test launch it in his hometown, Varanasi, in eastern Uttar Pradesh. With friends helping with the distribution, Singh priced the 200 ml juice pack at ₹6. “The first batch sold within days. In the first year itself, we recorded sales of over ₹70 lakh,” he says.

As our world becomes homogeneous, our cities all mind-numbingly similar, the idea of a souvenir stands alone and brave Thirst for success

This home-grown mango juice brand is rural India’s favourite drink... one that has put the squeeze on several MNC giants

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Interestingly, Singh was blissfully unaware of

Bring me back (clockwise from farthe left) importance of profits and profitability then. “I didn’t even know these terms. If I Flamenco shoes forback sale in the Spanish city ofhad Seville known, I would have opted out as we were reuters/marcelo del pozo; not profitable after paying government dupieces of the Berlin Wall ties, taxes and margins to distributors and restill find takers, 25 years tailers. To us, what mattered then was that after the great fall reuters/ tobias schwarz ; wooden sales and demand were rising,” he recalls. masks beckon touristsSoon, in he was also looking at nearby states.

Kochi h vibhu; Eiffel Tower Godrej had a spare capacity at its Bhopal plant souvenirs to seal love and and another company had idle capacity in Inlonging in Paris reuters/ manySingh began to use those too. “In 2005, charles platiau; and the dore. colours of Pipli in eastern we set up our own plant in Vadodara.” It had a Odisha ashoke chakrabarty daily production capacity of 4,000 boxes,

each with 27 packs of 200ml juice.

Today, he has plants in Varanasi and Dehradun as well. But there is demand for much more. According to advisory firm Technopak, the fruit drinks market in India stood at ₹3,500 crore in 2012 and will grow at 15-20 per cent till 2017. To meet this burgeoning demand, Singh is coming up with a fourth plant in Vadodara at an investment of ₹100 crore. It will have a daily capacity of 70,000 boxes.

Manpasand’s revenue crossed ₹300 crore last fiscal, and is expected to touch ₹600 crore in FY2015 and ₹1,000 crore by FY2016.

magine spending an entire month trav- juices were seasonal drinks. After June-July, noelling the length of the country, braving body would buy them again till next summer. dusty, kachcha roads, narrow lanes and Now, it’s bought through the year,” he says. traffic congestion. And that too twice a year, for 10 years! Dhirendra Singh did just Friendly advice The uncommon touch that between 1998 and 2008 — his travels took With almost no knowledge of the business, Available in 20 states, the retail network of him and what is today rural India’s favourite Singh ventured into it in 1996 only because a over two lakh outlets wasn’t easy to set up. fruit drink, Mango Sip, to practically every friend advised him to. “I had During his road trips, Singh s I get older, I am increasingly grateful that contain plastic repnook and crannyan ofexperience. the country.That a keychain, a moved from Mumbai to Vadodaidentified areas with high footI have friends who like to travel far moreDuring lica, glass box filled withoften desertspend sand could capture hisatravels, Singh would ra when I was working for a petfalls for distributorships. For inthan I do. There is something wonderfully what to beobserving far from home.

To be surrounded by an entire dayisatlike a shop customers, roleum company.

Since Gujarat stance, in Bihar he chose Buxar Available in 20 states, childlike about people who love to travel. a language you cannot understand, in the their spending preferences and the shopkeep-to stand has an entrepreneurial culture, over Arrah as it has a busier marthe product’s retail They are restless but hopeful. They are optimistic shadow ofHe something longed tothesee ers’ expectations. soon saw you’ve that pricing bugyour bit me too,” he says. ket despite being smaller. network of over two and they are energetic. They believe that there and are commissions whole life, alone to understand what youinmust With look like could drive sales a bank loan of ₹2.5 lakh “I personally went to every dislakh outlets wasn’t things out there in this world of ours that are worthy fromand a distance. tier-II towns rural areas, and that the ‘dis- and some money borrowed from tributor in the country. I would easy to set up of pursuit, that should be sought out, enjoyed and It is easy todistributor’ laugh at themodel idea of souvenirs.

Theyand are friends, he bought trict-headquartered would family spend time with them, undershared with others. tacky, are kitschy, theyMango are commercial. areto use the National fail here.

No they surprise then that Sip, theThey right stand their requirements and I love hearing other people’s travel stories and getneitherby beautiful nor useful. The inadequacy of aDevelopment soumanufactured Singh’s Manpasand BeveragDairy Board’s (beteven have meals with them at ting gifts from other countries without ever having venir shoptoday is plain to mango see when youinrunter into them by its brand, Amul) es, is synonymous with juice known their homes. That was my way of to stand in a line, get a visa and spend actual money. here at home. Tiny shops filled with brass carvings, the hinterland. mango juice-making spare capacity at its Ma- convincing them about my product and its When somebody goes somewhere and brings meBut when bright cloth-covered notebooks.

As soon as hescarves, embarked on this journey 18 hananda plant in Goregaon, Mumbai, and its consistent quality,” says Singh. back something, anything, I will love it unconditionyoulittle walkdid into theseknow places, you know theypackaging are not forfacility in Vadodara. years ago, Singh that demand Over the years, Singh’s forwarding agents ally, immediately. I think of how this little you, because here every for his juice would outstrip supplyyou evenare after With day. manufacturing and packaging in and distributors have grown with him. Ravi giraffe was carved by South African These are shops filled with place, thingsSingh for only had to take care of the prod- Mundara, Manpasand’s agent in Maharashdoubling production annually.

“Those days, hands and now it is here with me and it is people who are leaving, who will not stay tra’s Sangli, started in 2009 and made ₹4 lakh incredible. I think of how someone went long. No sunburned backpacker’s heart that year. Today, he has 70 distributors across far away and thought of me and literally is content until they have an elephant of 10 districts buying from him and he will close No sunburned brought me back a rock, and I would be some kind to take home with them. And this fiscal with sales of ₹3 crore. “The company backpacker’s heart filled with gratitude. The idea that some- is content until they if the dizzying displacement of travellgives us good marketing and sales support,” one thought of me in a crowded shop, have an elephant of ing across India must be distilled into a says Mundara. with limited time and an exchange rate single thing, then why not a bejewelled To cater to rural buyers with smaller pocksome kind to take that was laughing loudly at them and all elephant? I can find no fault with this. ets, Singh brought out the 125ml pack for ₹6 home with them the hard work they had to do, touches my As our world becomes depressingly (the 200ml pack is priced at ₹10). As Manpabitter old heart. The joy of getting a souhomogeneous, our cities all mind-numbsand does not spend heavily on advertising venir from someone else’s travels is far ingly the same — filled with the same and brand promotion (it mainly relies on greater than the joy I would get from acstores selling the same things, the same word of mouth), Singh is able to give a bigger tually going somewhere. restaurants selling the same re-heated food — the commission to his distributors and retailers.

Accordingly, there are many things in my life that idea of a souvenir stands alone and brave.

This not only gets him more stockists, but also are neither useful nor beautiful but I love them and The next time you go somewhere, anywhere, try helps him stave off competition from the MNC keep them close. Little things that have travelled and buy something. Struggle to communicate with giants, such as Coca-Cola’s Maaza and Pepsiback from far-off lands, safely tucked into over-stuffthe person selling it to you and do not shy away from co’s Slice. However, Singh made an exception ed luggage. Fridge magnets and thin t-shirts, woodthe obvious and the mundane. Pick up that sticker of this January, when he signed up actor Sunny en dolls and beautiful green bottles of mediocre a goddess from in front of an ancient temple, that Deol as brand ambassador. wine. Souvenirs from places I’ve never been, and postcard you will never send, that keychain of a tiny Singh is also ready for an initial public offerprobably never will be, and the comfort I get from Eiffel Tower. Feel good as you travel home, knowing ing (IPO) sometime next year. But despite the holding them, wearing them against my skin and that the souvenirs you have brought back will defy company’s big-time successes so far, his gaze looking at them from a distance at odd points durtime and space. You can share them with other peonever wavers from where it all began: the hinNew beginnings ing the day, has little to do with the objects alone. ple or keep them all to yourself. Every time you look terland. “Rural markets welcomed me with Dhirendra Singh with The word souvenir is one of those soft French at them, they will remind you of why you love to travopen arms. I will continue to grow there,” asSunny Deol, who was words, with el and why you love to come back home. serts Singh. recently signedancient up as Latin roots that means to call to mind.

Weambassador can get caught up in the romance of this the brand of Manpasand snigdha manickavel is a Hyderabad-based writer rashmi pratap language and come to believe that an object could

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rate hub offresh Gurgaon. pasta with pepper and shrimp”. IncidenBy Paola July that year,professor having covered nearly tally, is a busy with a stock of 1,200 restaurants in the National Capital Refuss-free yet fabulous recipes — a trip to her ficgion, Goyal knew he throws was ready to go ideas. public tional kitchen always up menu with his online food guide.

Thus was born FooIf jaunting through Venice with Brunetti rediebay.com, —a veals much now morerechristened about ItalianZomato.com cuisine than trusted reference — for those who want to meal at our local trattoria, the Inspector Chen THE HUNGRY READER know by all Qiu about restaurants, from theirinlocaseries Xiaolong is unparalleled imtion on the Google MapsoftoShanghai menus, to prices and parting flavours cuisine. user reviews Chen acrosshas 11 countries.

Inspector a tough life — dealing “The company understood thatpowerful people with bloated corpses and politically wanted But to know more about at a bullies. nothing puts himthe off offerings his crab banrestaurant andnoodles possible experiquet and Across-the-bridge (rice nooences,” says Goyal, now on dle soup from Yunnan).

In fact,who he is seems to themuch road, about in an his effort to expand worry quite as dinner party Zomato’s operations. killers lurkmenus as about the cold-blooded ing about Zomato employs 650 the Bund. For his housewarming Stirring the pot party, to serve “more than people in 11 he is determined The initial investment the cost just a homely meal”.

The ambitious—outcome countries, including collecting meis “chunks ofof stomach on aand bed scanning of green napa Brazil, Indonesia, nus,slices andofpaying Zomato’s first (cabbage), smoked carp spread New Zealand, South thin dataofcollection executive, Ashok on fragile jicai and steamed shrimps Africa, Sri Lanka and leaves — came with tomato Kumar sauce. There wasfrom also Goyal’s a plattersavof the UAE ings. and After starting Foodiebayeels with scallions ginger, ordered from a .com, continued working with restaurant. He hadheopened a can of Meiling November 2009. steamed porkBain anduntil added some green vegetahen you sit down with a mur- readers into the elegant pastanes (pastry bles to it to make By 2010, Foodiebay made another dish... had When the der mystery, you know you are shops) that dot his glorious city. He then dith- guests inroadsarrived into restaurants inbe not onlyfrom the the naa soup would made in for a scary, tummy-turning ers over the “rich gateaux, profiteroles and juice tionalofcapital regionpork (NCR), but also Mumbai, the canned and canned pickle.” ride. You expect to feel dis- croissants oozing with rich liquid chocolate” To Pune, Bangalorethis and Kolkata. rising popsupplement spread, his Its food-obsessed turbed and jumpy. What you don’t expect to as well as “syrup-drenched baklavas, thick rice friend ularity Lu attracted attention of Info Edge, brings the along a melt-in-the-mouth feel, however, is very, very hungry. the company that inowns Naukri.com, puddings and asure, a sticky fruit and nut Beggar’s Chicken cooked Yellow Mountains’ After all, limbless torsos and bloodstained dessert packed with fruit and calories.” True pine 99acres.com other portals.

By pumping in needles.and “The recipe,” Lu says, “supposedbathtubs rank high on the list of appetite sup- torture — especially when all you have in the ly ₹4.7 crore in when Augusta beggar 2010, Info Edge enabled originated baked a soil-andpressants. So nobody can blame American and fridge is half a bar of moldy Dairy Milk. the website to recruit sales staff.

The name was lotus-leaf-wrapped chicken in a pile of ashes.”

British detectives of crime fiction for survivchanged to Zomato Itostarted avert any likely for asNo one, however, does the gourmet gum- also Feeling adventurous, hunting ing on coffee, booze and uninspiring burgers. shoe thing as naturally as Sicilian and Italian manageable sociations with Ebay. of Beggar’s Chicken. But recipes Not all fictional bloodhounds share these detectives. Both Salvo Montalbano, who nabs there’s “Infono Edge was interested in our business such thing — especially in Mumbai, delicate sensibilities, however. And it’s won- villains in Sicily, and Guido Brunetti, who where model.dried Therelotus weren’t many in the onleaves andplayers pork bellies are derful to stumble upon paperback sleuths tracks killers in Venice, have inspired cook- not linestocked search market thenStores and they believed in

by Honesty down the road. who are as keen on feta as forensic evidence; books, food tours and restaurant menus. In The our only execution says Saurabh optionstrength,” is to try our luck at thoseSenexwho are as good at locating the city’s best fact, the two series are popular as much for pensive, gupta, India country manager at Zomato. Or, “authentic” Chinese restaurants. kathi rolls as they are at tracking down three- their descriptions of bustling markets and la- of The latest round oftofunding November course, plan a trip the cityinwhere Chen toed cobblers with a suspicious past. Many of zy lunches as for the whodunit angle. last year sawand Infoeats Edge as well as Sequoia Capnabs crooks such magnificent meals. these detectives are wonderful guides to their pumping in a₹228 crore.

Infothat Edge has so Montalbano — a character created by An- ital(This is part of monthly series follows a cities and cuisines — and willy-nilly introduce drea Camilleri — has a girlfriend named Livia. food far invested ₹143the crore and owns a 50.1 per trail through realm of fiction.) distant readers to elegant landmarks famous But truth be told, is as attached to his feisty cent stake in the company. minwalla a journalist and author of The for their light-as-air profiteroles or tiny street housekeeper Adelina and her “simple but zest- shabnam While Zomato gotisover 16 million visits last Spellmakers of Dorabji Street stalls dishing out divine noodles. month, its revenue comes mainly from restauful” Sicilian fare. Her cold pasta with toma- Six Take, for example, the safari-suited toes, basil and black passuluna olives gives off rants advertising on it. Ad rates vary from city Ikmen’s Profiteroles head of Most Private Investiga- “an aroma to wake the dead”. And her rabbit toInspector city.

Makes about 18 t was early 2008.

Deepinder his cacciatore ous eateries and place order. initiative tors Ltd — who Goyal stars and in four In financial year 2012-13, it clocked ₹11.5 brings joyousantears to The his eyes.

(It’s office friends uproarious at consulting firm by Bain & cooked was an instant hit among colleagues capand crore revenue but has not broken even yet. novels Tar“hunter-style” withhis bell-peppers, 1 cup milk Co were tired ofquin scouring through stacks Goyal enthused keep recipe addingworks morewith me- “Operationally, Hall. Vish Puri is hap- ers we have broken even… we andwas tomatoes.

Thetorustic A little over 100gm unsalted butter of menu cards each py totime take they on wanted to nus to the list. to be profitable in India this fiscal. Zomachicken as well — and I’m sure hope Pinch of salt order food from a nearby restaurant.

That’s It was justmany a matter of months beforetohe re- to1stepped bookies, polinto global markets only one-andreaders are grateful Adecup flour when Goyal, a mathsiticians and computing online restaurant them guideto was and graduate alised that an years ago.

There, it will take some time,” lina for introducing thisa a-half 4 extra-large eggs from IIT-Delhi, thought scanning the me- viable business withdistinctive serious potential.

He says hairy of thugs, Sengupta. easy but stew.)

1/2 cup heavy cream If you must plot and nus of restaurants near friends andother fellow IIT-ians butlocated never on anhis Gurgaon teamed up with Thegm company incurs its major More than any dish, how350 semisweet chocolate chipscosts on staff peer over your and Gunjanloves Patidar, and and office and sharing themstomach. on the company in- Pankaj Chaddah empty technology ever, Montalbano Adelina’s 2 tbsp honey requirements. It employs 650 shoulder, do it over 2 tbspin prepared coffee including Brazil, Indotranet. Anyone in the office— could collecting the people “Chubby” as he now log in, spent weekends 11 countries, arancini — friedand ricescanning balls stuffed galauti kebab VanillaNew ice cream check out the offerings and prices at the vari- menus of eateries the then emerging corpo- nesia, is appropriately Zealand, South Africa, Sri Lanka, with ainmeat sauce and mozzareloC. geogranicknamed — and the It is newer la. And he is willing to go to any the 1. UAE Preheat the UK. oven toeyeing 425oF/220 knows every as it milk, reaches a saturation pointscalded. in the Inlengths to sample the arancini she phies 2. Heat butter and salt until worthy chaatwala market updating is planning to make on New Year’s dian 3. When the despite butter melts, add therestaurant flour andevery beatthree with months. a wooden spoon to form in Delhi and is always on the Eve. Lie to his boss and girlfriend, fabricate evi- menus a dough.

Cook, lookout for “kokis (Sindhi on- dence and skip a romantic weekend in Paris.

“Our success in a stirring countryconstantly, depends over on the lowtoheat minutes.

Thetoflour willwith. ion parathas) served with a findfor the2right people work The upright Guido Brunetti may not go ability begintotocover coat the the whole bottomofofAsia theand pan.Eastdaub of fresh butter and quite as far. But the protagonist of Donna Le- We want 4. Transfer the hot mixture into a food some curd and garlic pickle on’s series allows his readers tantalising ern Europe,” Sengupta says. processor with the steel blade. Add on the side” or “paprichaat glimpses into Venetian restaurants, his own After up the money from the latest eggsusing and pulse until the mixture is thick. with lashings of tamarind kitchen and the Italian passion for food. A round of 2funding, company require 5. Use spoons the to scoop out won’t the mix and chutney at a roadside working lunch at a sandwich bar involves moreshape fundsthe in the next financial year, he says. puffs with damp fingers. stall”. While in Lucknow, plates of “artichoke hearts and bottoms, some sofor much going for Zomato 6.With Bake 20 minutes, or it, until lightly is the browned.

Turn target off thefor oven and let he conducts “top secret” fried olives, shrimp and calamari” and then perfect acquisition internet biggies. them Zomato sit in it for 10 minutes, they it meetings in the aromatic the triangular sandwiches, tramezzino, with But team doesn’t believe until in giving hollow “We whenhave tapped the lanes of Aminabad. After innovative fillings — shrimp and tomato or all upsound for money. beenonapproached bottom.But Make small in the of all, if you must plot and dried beef and arugula. While a more elabo- for a sell-off. we ahave notslitbuilt theside business each the asteam escape.compaCool. peer over your shoulder, you rate lunch could extend to “sardines marinat- to sell.

Wepuff wanttotolet build world-class 7. Melt the cream and chocolate chips in might as well do it over galauti ed in onions and raisins”, heaped plates of ny,” he says. set over simmering water. Add Click for menu a bowl Saurabh Sengupta, kebab, biryani, sultaani daal and spaghetti with tiny clams and a grilled cod.

Now that’s dream dishoney and acoffee andwithin stir untiltasting smooth.

India country kulfi with rose-scented falooda. for, aspuff longcrosswise, as peoplefilllove toaeat out, After which Brunetti heads home to discuss tance…

8.

Cut each with small manager at Zomato Similarly, Cetin Ikmen — the Istanbul cop his macabre cases with his wife Paola over “tu- they scoop will readily for it. of iceclick cream, replace the top subhojit paul; Deepinder and drizzle with warm chocolate sauce.

Goyal, founder of the in Barbara Nadal’s mystery series — is a con- na steaks simmered in a sauce of capers, olives start-up subhojit paul noisseur of all things chocolate and leads and tomatoes” or “prosciutto with figs and rashmi pratap k gopinathan

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Feeding curiosity Acrossthe-bridge noodles; and (top) kathi roll shutterstock

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He who pounces like a dog

Game of clones Pete Sampras and Andre Agassi (flanking tennis legend Rod Laver) have been signed up for the IPTL ap/amy sancetta; Mahesh Bhupathi, the man behind the league

A low-down on how Tamil Nadu’s dreaded gangsters earned their reputations and epithets k gopinathan

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here’s a running joke in Madurai households. It says that if you do not find a blade to sharpen your child’s pencil, you can make do with an aruval (a type of sickle or billhook). It’s a subtle indicator of how gangster culture has permeated this much-revered temple town in Tamil Nadu. Movies, television and pop culture have glorified the exploits of goondas from this region, brandishing aruvals, dishing out their trademarked retribution in spades, while lawmakers sit back and enjoy the spoils of the carnage. But the real life thugs are no ordinary ruffians. Many of them have been anointed with, or earned sobriquets that precede their reputations.

Almost three weeks ago, one of the most dreaded gangsters in Tamil Nadu was apprehended by the Chennai police. The man, referred to as ‘Dog’ Ravi, had 25 criminal charges against his name, including four homicides.

His nickname was inspired by his former profession of a trainer and seller of pedigree dogs.

A senior officer from Chennai Police tells us, “Ravi’s infamy dates back to over a decade. In 1999, he murdered Nagaraj, the brother of a rowdy known as Dindigul Pandi. Then, in 2000, he was the prime accused in the murder of Ilango, the cousin brother of Varichiyur Selvam, a gangster from Madurai. He was also involved in the murder of a political leader from Tamil Nadu, Aladi Aruna in 2004. Many gangsters were gunning for Ravi’s blood, including t’s often amusing to note how and mostSolai upVarichiyur Selvam, Dindigul Pandi Bangkok leagues Ravi. coming Dog Ravi was closelyinvolving associated franchise with othAndy Murray teams earn ‘IPL-style’ Despite all er gangsters like the Appalam Raja,tag.

Kakku Veeran Victoria Azarenka the gloriousShankar, controversies by and Manalmedu whosecourted friendship Jo-Wilfried Tsonga that tournament, the label is attached withcricket Ravi dates back to 1996.

It was also the to sporting events charge nonchalantly.

It yearthese when the first criminal against RaCarlos Moya seems rather counterintuitive.

If anything, vi was registered.”

Daniel Nestor these leagues mustmight be advised to step away While gangsters be associated with Kirsten Flipkens from the murky trailfor the IPL. finall things bloody,shadows they arethat known their more to placing the er The tastes as obvious well. Theobjection official tells me, “Ravi Dubai IPL on the lapel is that such usedbadge to own a dog imported fromcompariSwitzerNovak Djokovic sons simplification that₹1.5 doesn’t land, often whichseek he’daprocured for about lakh.

Caroline Wozniacki exist.

The Indian Badminton League or Hockey During his arrest, we recovered a pistol of an Goran Ivanisevic India League doesn’t the revenues or American make from match him which was worth popularity that IPLwas generates. over ₹1 lakh.

Ravi on the run since 2008, Janko Tipsarevic The latest tournament to be bitten by the Nenad Zimonjic IPL bug is the International Premier Tennis Martina Hingis League (IPTL). Once again, it is anything but.

Malek Jaziri Although a novel and contracted form of tennis will be witnessed during the tournaMumbai ment, its major components flatter to deceive.

Rafael Nadal Four Asian cities — Mumbai, Bangkok, SingaPete Sampras pore and Dubai — will be represented by some of the best former and current tennis players, Ana Ivanovic starting November 28 to December 13 later Gael Monfils this year.

Rohan Bopanna Every match will see a best of five sets, Sania Mirza where each set will be played by players across Fabrice Santoro categories — men’s and women’s singles, men’s and mixed doubles, and men’s legends.

Singapore The recently held player draft witnessed Mumbai’s acquisition of Rafael Nadal, Pete Sampras Andre Agassi and Sania Mirza. Nadal will reportedly earn a Serena Williams million dollars per night.

Tomas Berdych In a departure from the spending caps enLleyton Hewitt forced in other leagues, the franchises here Patrick Rafter had to spend a minimum of $4 million on each player. In all, $24 million have been Daniela Hantuchova splurged, as teams were required to draft at Bruno Soares least six players None of them could sign Living on the edge SicklesNicholas and billhooks are the weapons of choice for mosteach. criminals operating in the temple Kyrgios town of Madurai sam panthaky more than 10. Although little is known about

Hall of infamy (clockwise from far left) Dog Ravi r siva, Attack Pandi g moorthy, Kakkathoppu Balaji and Sivakasi Jayalakshmi m moorthy

Double fault? occasionally by atsnagged his wife’s broiler Later this year, an IPL-style tennis leaguedropping that has shop in Ambattur, Chennai, but never staying Evenits hisdetractors close associates never knew his top-notch players hopes to win put. over

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lice officials with a weakness for women. They in turn would shower her with gifts and gold.

Believe it or not, her pastime was riding in the whereabouts.” But Ravi has found a perma- jeep with the policemen while they went on nent residence after all — in the Chennai Po- their rounds. She even wore a uniform during lice’s list of its most wanted gangsters. these patrols and managed to run her charade the sponsors as yet, reportedly, theRavi, majority Keeping him company are Kalvettu Kak- forThese doubts have Unfortunately tinged the IPTLfor canvas almost a decade.

Jayainvestment in theArcot Mumbai team kathoppu Balaji, Suresh andwas CDmade Mani.by with unseemly colours.

Perhaps, oneand should lakshmi, the uniform gave her away she Hyderabad-based Prasad V Potluri. compa- have Folks in Madurai say there’s an His altogether expected thisyears low-key reception. For tenwas arrested a few ago.” ny PVP Ventures also Ravi owns Hyderabad Hot- nisGiving different reason why earned the canine doesn’t need such a league.

Cricket, usreally a lowdown on how pseudonyms shots Indian Badminton League. with a badminton suffix.inR the Sivakumar, a crime reporter and hockey battled offenders, falling staditend to get attached to certain he Yet, for all theTamil money and magazine, the presence of um Madurai-based news says, for years before given they started says,attendances “The nicknames are usually by the stars Novak Djokovic, Murray and Se- organising “The like nickname stuck to Andy Ravi because of his such tournaments to draw inwritnew policemen themselves.

When the police rena Williams, the on tennis world has tendency to pounce his enemies likehardly a dog. spectators.

Tennis, is yet to faceinsuch er takes down the however, name of an accused the been enraptured developments over hurdles. Filling Of course, that wasby onethe of the lessseatshehasn’t a problem register, looksbeen first for a distinthe past few weeks.for It doesn’t help that partici- for the sport.guishable physical trait. Of er-known reasons his epithet.” pating have already reservaThereplayers are also those like Pexpressed PanNor can one argue with goodwork reason course, that doesn’t allthat the tions over‘Attack’ the tournament. di, alias Pandi, the chief the top players need to participate in the IPTL. time.

So you have to start digging “The schedule is a little accused in the murder ofshorter ‘Pottu’ The Federers andlook Nadals earn into their history, for associthese days, gives thefunctionary guys an opSuresh, a itpolitical enough to fill their pockets, bags ations, family names, businesses, ‘Attack’ or ‘assault’ portunity to play a few exhibifrom Madurai.

There’s a very quirand cupboards.

There’s littleend inetc. That’s how these felons are synonyms for tions, makefor a few extra bucks. We ky reason Pandi earning his centive themlike to play in an exup withfor names Thenga-kada ‘awesome’ in all know they need it, so if somenickname.

Sivakumar goes on to Nadal tournament in Mumbai Mariappan (he who used to be a will beand seen in hibition Madurai one’s dumb enough toPandi pay them, tell me, “In those days, used or Bangkok.

An vendor), IPTL trophy is untender coconut Appalam action with his Chennai slang they’d beadumb not to takehairit,” to sport very distinctive likely to feature in Raja (whose fatherprominently used to sell apwibbly-wobbly said while styleSampras and one recently, could pick himalso out their cabinet. palams or papads), Kattikuttu Kaknees in the confirming he basis intends to from a crowdthat on the of his Yet, Nadal be seenpreferred in action laimani (hewillwhose inaugural season play only three matches.

One hairdo.

His friends called his hairwith hiswas wibbly-wobbly weapon a knife) and knees so on.”at couldn’t help but note strong cut an ‘Attack’ style.

Thethe words ‘attheAccording inauguraltoseason.

Forfigures, years, unofficial apprehension in are theused 14-time tack’ and ‘assault’ as synonyms for about 186 rowdies the Spaniard been at the forehavehas been identified in Grand Slaminwinner’s ‘awesome’ Maduraistatement. and Chennai slang. And Madurai district frontsooffar. theOut campaign shorten of these,to 15 rowdies Andre Agassi, drafted

by Singapore, hasApart also the that’s how he came to bear the name.” playing calendar. believedHow fewer fall into the prize catchHe category. do toursuch displayed interest playing the whole from this, little according to in urban legend, Pandi naments would help lengthen careers. Hence,a goondas still evade the law? LR Arumugham, tournament. has even announced that he used to be an He accomplished kabaddi player in it is difficult to explain his“There presence the police head constable, says, is anin acute wouldn’t give dinner with IPTL. his hey day.

Hehis wasThanksgiving known for his aggressive Surely, the 27-year-old should shortage of policemen on the field on anyhave givthe family a miss for he IPTL. Money can’t replace manoeuvres, which unleashed every time skipped it. Yet, he’slack there. moneyshift-based does talk. en day. Due to the of So, a proper love, after all, seems! Moreover, he neared theitopposing team. Maria Shara- Or perhaps, Nadal realisedmany that he routine (except in has Chennai), of has the onpopova andwere Li Na decided to skip the that tournaIf one under the impression the ly so much time left before hiswithout knees give up. licemen work multiple shifts proper ment as was their agentonly Max Eisenbud notoriety limited to the menfolk,was he sleep, Unfortunately, forThe thesalary IPTL, not is food or rest. paideveryone to the pounconvinced of IPTL’s merits. or she would be mistaken.

A Mata Hari tale for afflicted career-threatening problicemen with is also a pittance. To topfitness it off, many So, it’stimes, toughSivakasi to fall inJayalakshmi’s love just yet with the lems. modern exploits Besides, all professional playerswith would low ranking policemen are delegated orIPTL. Originally to havetextbooks. six teams, Ait con has prefer are the stuff of meant criminology to establish legacy be at out the Grand derly duties, when their they could in the ended upexcellence, with four.Jayalakshmi Mahesh Bhupathi, the Slams artist par hailed from or other field, doing themarquee jobs theycompetitions. were hired for.AIfbreethis man who conceptualised the Nadu. league and con- zy the fireworks capital of Tamil night in Mumbai is notat the desired setting is the quality of workforce hand, you cannot tinues to beon at the condition helm, hasn’t revealed anya for Speaking of anonymity, starslaw to and deliver their best. yet, at least. expect order to be in Not top order.” significant information the financial moviapolice inspector told me,on“Jayalakshmi’s is a senior reporter with The Hindu bijoy bharathan bility of the project dus operandi was toeither. ensnare high ranking po- priyansh

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saturday, march 29,29, 2014 saturday, march 2014

EC Rider It’s a bird… It’s a plane… It’s an election commission officer

Sensational Moon Moon Sen during her glam days sushanta

Killer zoo on the loose

patronobish

If you’re a healthy animal living in Denmark, leave

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hen the Copenhagen Zoo put down Marius the giraffe, nearly two months ago, officials received death threats besides international outrage. But that hasn’t stopped them from killing four other healthy animals — two lion cubs and their parents. On Monday, the Copenhagen Zoo euthanised the lions after it failed to find them a new home.

Soon, a new male lion will be introduced. The 10month-old cubs would have been killed by the new lion, said zoo officials, preferring to carry out the act themselves. But there is a small consolation: there will be no public dissection since “not all our animals are dissected in front of an audience”.

Pew Pew! Meet Laser Cat, the digital art sensation of 2014

New moon in Bankura T

his is not your average kitty. He’s a giant inflatable golden cat who eats and then spews out art emitting the noise ‘Pew Pew!’ The feline brainchild of public art creators Dave Glass and Kill Cooper is accepting artworks from artists all over the world. In a public performance in Miami next week, Laest will Bengal’s district ofartworks Banku- out ser Cat literally shoot of his Back in Bankura, that is precisely what the star ra was anything but eyeballs via laser beams.

So sleepy far, Laser brought Cat has to the table. She changed clothes the this submissions past Sunday from afternoon. received big namesway in the she’d change costumes on a film set.

Looking like who art world likemore Banksy andfans David Lynch.

While a blue and white-striped chiffon saWearing wait impatiently for their beloved star’s blockt’s not just the folks at the Aam Aadmi Party who HuffPost and Wired have hailed this “beautiree to address party workers at the Bankura to premiere, groups of curious onlook- has have jhaadus on their minds these days. As partbuster of fully weird project”, The Guardian ques- Sen seemed to redefine the oft restadium, ers flanked ationed small the patch of road that led tosaying, the Systematic Voter Education and Electoral Particifeline’s credentials “weTrinamool slogan of ‘Ma, Maati, Manupeated their town. may Though it had been weeks since pation Programme (SWEEP), Tejaswi Naik, a 2009be stuck with Laser Cat as this century’s sh’ (Mother, Earth, Man) to a more apt ‘Ma, the graffiti answer in Bankura’s streets he ‘like’, madeleaders famous by Facebook, has made the ‘dislike’ (thumbs batch IAS officer and person-in-charge of Annupur to The Shock of thehad New.”an- Mamata, Moon Moon.’

Whileassenior that the Trinamool Congress was tried to enthuse the down) equally recognisable.

Keeping this in mind, an advocate, S Sathiadistrict in Madhya Pradesh has found a novel waynounced to 30,000-strong crowd fielding Moon Moon Sen as its Lok Sabha can- with badly pronounced chandran, filed inor the Madras High Court, in which he said that the None ask people to come out and vote. The IAS officer cries of a“EiPIL bar nebdidate, this was the first time the actress was har” (Now or never), Of The Above (NOTA) option would be more popular if it had an exclusive symhitched on a two-seater paraglider, fitted with a mopeppering their speeches making a pit stop in the constituency, her first with references to bol.

Members2G ofand theCoalgate, Election Commission (EC) have responded to the petition tor, soared above the Annupur skies, dropping pamTelangana, real political debut of sorts. Trying hard to Moon Moon Sensaying, have already phlets. Annupur is also an up-and-coming adventure stuck “We to telling a storytaken she steps to popularise NOTA, the option is printed contain their enthusiasm, a majority of the vil- knows best — herinown. both English and the regional language on ballot papers and EVMs. However, tourism destination and the stunt seems to have Stars and stripes While campaigning in Bankura, Moonbe Moon Sen sticks to the story she knows best; lagers were however, forced to confess that the suggestion by the petitioner considered.” come at the right time for the tourist agency Satpura The actress began by introducing herself as will herdebut own shreevatsa they had never seen any of the actress’ films. the daughter of yesteryear The NOTAstar option will make in thenevatia 2014 General Elections. While Sports, fetching them their 15 seconds, er… 20-odd Suchitra Sen. its Their impatient wait finally ended when a The idea of hereditary some states the option in their Assembly elections, for more than 11 minutes of fame. The district recorded a voter turngloryhave doesseen not bother convoy of SUVs emerged from the distance. Sen much. As she million people, in across the will be the first time out of 73 per cent in last year’s Assembly elections later clarified — at “I least havefive mystates referring to country, the chiefthis minister in conversaSen they can the option. and the numbers for this year also look promising.

A stepped out of her Toyota Fortuner in a mother’s recognition thatuse I am riding on,Make but I it count! tion. Living up to her somewhat unorthodox white salwar kameez and blue stole. The meet am also riding on my own recognition be- credentials, she even starts an interview by little flyby can never hurt though. and greet lasted only a few minutes. The sun cause I have worked for 22 to 24 years in Benga- saying that she has just returned from the was harsh. Sen was soon whisked away to her li cinema and in the cinema of other States. I hairdresser’s — “People do that. They go shophotel for lunch. didn’t do too badly.” When introducing her ping. My normal life hasn’t fully stopped.” But Journalists gathered outside Sen’s room husband Bharat Dev Varma to potential voters there is some evidence that Sen’s life isn’t as wanting an itemised account of what food the in Bankura, Sen used his schednormal as it once was. On Monstar had been served, down to the kind of dal uled tribe background to ingraday evening, a woman from Ban(moong) and chutney (coriander) that she tiate herself with the adivasis kura is said to have come up to had sampled. The palpable excitement even who were present. The fact that Sen before she left the salon and I’d like to work in the made one of the local sweepers want to recon- he is a descendant of Tripura’s is believed to have told her that district… maybe not sider his strong communist loyalties. royal family might of course even after all these years, it is realfor the whole month, After having comfortably won the Bankura have felt too opulent a truth to ly difficult to procure safe drinkmaybe for seven days Lok Sabha seat nine times since 1980, CPI(M) labour. But the 66-year-old acing water in the area. Sen says and also when the leader Basudeb Acharia is not to be taken tress cannot really be faulted for that she had to ask, “So what were need arises or most nuns around the world, Sound oflightly, Music but is just film, and even thea Trinamool Congress believes it dishonesty. As soon as she had you doing for nine terms? Why if a few of them can hum a tune or two, it’s that theyago beyond a in Moon Moon told the audience that she wanthasrare found itself trump card were you voting for the same Sunday morning choir. Not so for Sister Cristina Scuccia of the Ursuline Sen. As the 49-year-old teacher Sasticharan ed to stay with them and work in man and the same party?” Sen reSisters from Sicily. On apopular Italian TV Chatterjee show, much like itsover counteropined a cup of cha, “When the district, she felt the need to alises now that “politics is all parts in the US and India (Indian Idol), Sisterthings Scuccia excelgetbelted old, allout youanneed is a whiff of some- correct herself. “Maybe not for the whole about keeping your doors open. It isn’t about lent cover of the Alicia Keys’ number No One, impressing thing radicallyeveryone new.” in the month, maybe for seven days and also when getting into a slanging match on one of Arcrowd and all the judges too. Asked why sheIn decided to attend a mainan interview to this paper, Sen hinted at a the need arises.” She insisted that the work she nab’s shows”. The prospect, though, of seeing stream show like The Voice, she replied rather “I came here be- one of mind- wanted to do was small, leaving the bigger Moon Moon Sen debate the nuance of legislanewsolemnly, kind of poriborton (change), cause I have a gift, and I want to share that gift.” way herdon’t YouTube sets.

SheThe said, “We live in a time when jobs and tasks for bigger leaders. tion has never seemed more appealing. Even if counter is ticking, it won’t be too long before Sister Scuccia is invited people say that since we areby poor, we are comSen may have spent a good portion of her it’s only for the chiffon saree she wears.

Keys herself for a musical collaboration. munists, we are ideological, or since we have Bankura speech extolling the virtues of Mamaread Karl Marx and Lenin, we don’t want a film ta Banerjee, but she doesn’t always find it nec- shreevatsa nevatia is a freelance writer based star in our midst. People want a freshness.” essary to add the reverent suffix ‘di’ when in Kolkata

In her chiffon sarees and with her filmi heritage, Moon Moon Sen is sure to bring freshness, if not revolution, to Bengal

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Thumbs down

The EC may not have given NOTA enough teeth but its symbol may be a universal favourite

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Nun’s the word

Sister Cristina Scuccia shares her musical gift, finds more than 30 million takers

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cornerstone in-faq by joy bhattacharjya

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t’s Utpal Dutt’s 85th birth anniversary. Few remember that Dutt, a committed leftist, was imprisoned for several months in 1965 for the revolutionary message of his play Kallol. This week’s questions are about jailbirds of many hues and plumes.

1

It was first published by Leonard Smithers in 1898 and the author was credited as C.3.3.

Which work, and why is it a part of this quiz?

2

The Global Health Council, Harvard School of Public Health, Harvard Medical School and several other prominent global health organisations issued a joint statement of support for which Indian, requesting that he be allowed to travel to receive the Jonathan Mann Award for Health and Human Rights in Washington, DC on May 29, 2008?

3

On December 13, 1997, who was briefly detained by the Albuquerque police for racing his Porsche in the desert?

4 5

For destroying the prints of which film was Sanjay Gandhi jailed in 1979?

In 1982, when she was jailed for 18 days on tax evasion charges, Pickle Packers, the world’s largest promotional agency for pickles actually sent her a pink pickle awarding her the title ‘Lady in the Prettiest Pickle of The Year.’ Identify this hugely popular actress.

the new york times crossword-0202

toil and trouble

6

By what moniker was Robert Franklin Stroud, a lifer originally incarcerated at Leavenworth penitentiary, better known?

7 8

In 1980, who spent nine days in a Tokyo jail for trying to smuggle marijuana into Japan?

When he was a boy, this director’s father had a policeman “arrest” him and keep him in prison for five minutes for behaving badly. This gave him a lifetime fear of jails and the police, often reflected in his films. Name the director.

9

One of the theories for this writer’s pen name is that it is an abbreviated version of Ohio Penitentiary, where he was jailed for embezzlement back in 1894. Give me either his real name, or the much better known pen name he used.

10

You could say he made a lot of money from prisons, and cultivated a romantic ‘outlaw’ image. But the only time this performer was jailed was for trying to smuggle in about 700 Dexidrine tablets inside his guitar case in 1965. The singer and his signature prison song?

Across

Answers 1. Oscar Wilde’s Ballad of Reading Goal, written while he was incarcerated. C.3.3 stood for Block C, Landing 3, Cell 3 2. Doctor Binayak Sen. Obviously, we have no real criminals to arrest 3. Bill Gates 4. Kissa Kursi Ka 5. Sophia Loren 6. The Birdman of Alcatraz, also used as the title of a biopic starring Burt Lancaster 7. Paul McCartney of the Beatles 8. Alfred Hitchcock 9. William Sydney Porter, better known as O’Henry.

10. Johny Cash, ‘Folsom Prison Blues…’

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joy bhattacharjya is, in this age of television pundits and Facebook gurus, simply grateful that facts are not opinions. t@joybhattacharj

1 Turns left 5 Ogles offensively 12 One for the money?

16 Actors Ken and Lena 18 Gettable 19 ___ Foods 20 Cash in 22 Tiny tunneler 23 Big gun 24 Ones doing aerobics 26 Popular British band named after the villain in “Barbarella” 28 Sinister señor 29 Lacoste offering 30 Soul maker 31 Channel showing old Hollywood hits 34 Disposables maker 35 Modus operandi 38 Kind of accounting 39 Bistro glassful 40 Sturdy ones 42 Org. using X-rays 45 Equally, say 47 Tangled 50 Legit 52 Words before and after “my lads” in the United States Merchant Marine anthem

54 ___ acid 55 Sides are often alongside them 56 Entry fee?

57 “Don’t look now …”

59 Bell or shell preceder 61 Regarding 62 Super Bowl successes, for short 63 Key of Bach’s most famous Mass 65 Furniture style of Louis XV 67 Dupe 68 ___ the Explorer 70 “That’s all folks,” for Mel Blanc 72 Batman : Robin :: Green Hornet : ___ 74 Strand, somehow 76 Girl’s name meaning “happiness” 77 Squirm 80 John Cusack’s co-star in “Say Anything …”

82 Dir. of the Missouri between S.D. and Neb. 83 Like leftovers, often 85 Born 86 Actor Richard who played Jaws in Bond films 87 Some A.L. (but not N.L.) players

88 It may be indicated with a ring 89 More than pique 90 Too smooth 92 Dudley Do-Right’s love 94 Second place?

95 Part of N.R.A.: Abbr.

96 Email button 98 Erne or tern 102 Baloney, in Bristol 104 Entitle to wear vestments 106 Headstrong 107 East Asian stew 110 “Ta-ta!”

112 It may be radical 113 Places where polar bears fish 115 They may be sprayed on 116 HBO competitor 117 Bill’s partner 118 Pro 119 Major, for example 120 Poetic rhapsody 121 Soak (up) 122 Summer White House setting: Abbr.

123 “Lady” of the lea 124 Rocky shout-outs

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1 Biblical peak 2 Actress Vega of “Spy Kids” 3 Expand 4 Mortimer of old radio

5 Contributors to The Paris Review, e.g.

6 First of 12 in South America 7 Muffs 8 Band with the 1994 album “Monster” 9 “He” and “she” follower 10 Not perform as expected 11 Dance popularized by Michael Jackson 12 “Yep” 13 Iraqi P.M. ___ al-Maliki 14 Like one of the arm bones 15 Destined (for) 17 Like vino de Rioja 19 Gobs 21 Compassion, figuratively 23 Start of many jokes 25 Dos x tres 27Latin “others” 31 Blue-green 32 Part of many an anniversary celebration 33 Tax-free bond, for short 35 Pair of cymbals in a drum kit 36 Ceaselessly 37 Tautological statement of finality 38 Cavs, on a scoreboard 41 Elbow-bender

42 Superstitious thespian’s name for a work of Shakespeare … from which 21-, 23-, 37-, 58and 60-Down all come 43 Take care of 44 Cause of an insurance investigation 46 One of 17 on a Monopoly board: Abbr.

48 What a goner has 49 Army threats?

51 Mendoza Mrs. 53 “___ get it!”

55 System prefix 58 A single stroke 60 What the lucky person leads 63 Lively 64 Piqued 65 500 events 66 Equipped to row 69 Have debts 71 “The Addams Family” nickname 73 ___ Maria 74 Rat

75 Carol 78 Towel designation 79 Elysium 81 Cry before “haw” 84 Big stretch?

91 Moccasin decorations 93 You might bow your head to receive one 94 Play about Capote 95 Famous Titanic victim 97 Zilch 99 One of “The Honeymooners” 100 Drippings appropriately positioned under the circled letters 101 Alternatively 103 “Lo-o-ovely!”

104 Director Preminger 105 You may find a fork in it 108 Prefix with -phile 109 Some reproaches 111 Palindromic cry 114 Intimidate

By Dick Shlakman and Jeff Chen / Edited by Will Shortz