Panama 980 Magazine

Boquete Tree Trek Mountain Resort

RANDOMLY GOOD FOOD REVIEW WATERMELON WAR

Edition 26

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BOQUETE TREE TREK

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WHALE WATCHING

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PANAMA BLUE RAINFOREST PURE SPRING WATER

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THE WATERMELON WAR THE MYTH OF THE PANAMA HAT PANAMA LA VIEJA

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BOCAS DE TORO CHOCOLATE??

ISLA CAÑAS SEA TURTLE TOUR RADOMLY GOOD FOOD REVIEW COFFEE 507-4

SALT AND SUGAR MUSEUM ORDER OF VASCO NUÑEZ DE BALBOA GATUN LAKE SAFARI

GENERAL MANAGER Irma Marengo GRAPHIC DESIGN Falina Pérez de Valverde SALES sales@panama980.com WRITERS Adam Armstrong Asia Sherman Irma Marengo PHOTOGRAPHY Irma Marengo Isais Cubilla PEPPOPHOTOGRAPHY

panama’s lifestyle & travel magazine The name 9°80° is derived from the country’s location on the world map – 9 degrees north of the equator, 80 degrees west of the prime meridian.

COLLABORATORS Boquete Tree Trek Café Ruiz Isla Cañas Tours Oreba Chocolate Panama Blue Whale Watching Panama CONTACT INFORMATION Phone: 394-3452 info@panama980.com www.locationpanama.com

Panama 9°80° es publicada por Avenue A. Publications, Inc. Las opiniones y recomendaciones de los autores y artistas que aparecen en Panama 9°80° no necesariamente reflejan las opiniones de la empresa.

Panama 9°80° no asume responsabilidad por los productos o servicios que se anuncian en la revista, ni por errores de contenido impreso.

No está permitido reproducir, total o parcialmente en contenido de esta publicación sin previo permiso escrito de Avenue A. Publications, Inc. © 2012 Todos los derechos reservados.

RUC: 1119547-1-564065 D.V. 92 Impreso por Panamericana Formas e Impresos, S.A. quién solo actúa como impresor.

Impreso en Colombia 2012 Todos los derechos reservados.

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Photo by: Isais Cubilla

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BOQUETE TREE TREK Mountain Resort

is nestled in the Chiriqui Palo Alto mountain range, bordering the continental divide between the provinces of Chiriqui and Bocas del Toro.

Just a 7 km drive from downtown Boquete, the landscape becomes lush as we start to immerse in the tropical cloud forest with tall centenary trees and abundant wildlife. Little by little we leave the hustle and bustle behind and start to experience nature at its best!

In the main cabin, the lounge atmosphere offers a warm and cozy setting perfect for relaxing by the fireplace while enjoying a nightcap or a hearty meal at the Rio Cristal Restaurant, also located in the main cabin serving a variety of international dishes. The outside deck is surrounded by abundant nature and captivating views of the nearby cloud forest and impressive mountains, including views of the Baru Volcano.

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The resort’s rooms and cabins were carefully crafted by local artisans to integrate the rustic elements of teakwood and pine with all modern amenities and finishings. The warmth of the wooden walls, ceilings and furniture create a perfect and soothing atmosphere, enhanced by comfortable and fluffy white duvets and pillows.

All rooms have been named after coffee themes, even key chains were shaped as coffee beans by local artisans.

Boquete Tree Trek Mountain resort’s privileged location at 1600 meters in altitude above sea level offers the opportunity to enjoy a very nice micro-climate with temperatures oscillating between 18°C and 22°C, and to observe exotic bird species such as the Quetzal, visit their own quality coffee plantation, participate in a coffee tasting educational tour at their own facilities, and to get an adrenaline rush on their canopy zip line tour with 14 platforms with 12 zip lines ranging between 90 and 409 meters.

The team of guides working at Boquete Tree Trek mountain resort is knowledgeable, energetic and properly trained in all safety standards and regulations to make your trip not only safe but very fulfilling and educational. Boquete Tree Trek resort staff is attentive, friendly and welcoming which is very refreshing.

The resort’s proximity to downtown Boquete opens the scope of multiple activities ranging from horseback riding to camping on the Baru Volcano. All activities can be arranged by Boquete Tree Trek resort staff or downtown Boquete Tree Trek head offices. The town of Boquete also offers a wide variety of restaurants to explore different cuisines, many of them integrating fresh local ingredients with international culinary trends.

Photo by:PEPPOPHOTOGRAPHY Isais Cubilla Photos by

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Boquete Tree Trek Mountain Resort is the perfect place to spend a well-deserved vacation, whether you are looking for an easy going, relaxing stay, a high adrenaline trip, or a mixture of both.

Amenities:

Activities:

10 hotel rooms

Canopy zip line tour

4 cabins

Coffee tour

TV with satellite signal

Quetzal tour

In-room telephone

Downtown specialized tour office

Toiletries In-room safe box Restaurant Fireplace lounge Wireless internet

Contact information: Tel: 720-1635 /832-5918 info@boquetetreetrek.com www.boquetetreetrek.com

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WHALE WATCHING The humpback whale is one of the largest species of whales; they are characterized by having rare long pectoral fins and a knobby head, ranging in size from 12 to 16 meters.

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Humpbacks feed only in polar waters during summer feeding on tiny shrimplike krill, plankton, and small fish.

Annually, the humpbacks migrate to tropical waters close to the equator to breed and give birth in the winter. As their feeding period only occurs in the summer, humpback whales fast and live up their fat reserves.

Humpbacks are avid swimmers and use their massive tail fin to breach, sometimes leaping completely outside the water.

The males are known to sing or moan and their magical songs sometimes last over 20 minutes. The reason for the songs is not clear but it is believed that it is related to the mating process.

During the humpback whale migration, they pass through Panama between June and October and specialized companies like Whale Watching Panama offer amazing tours catering to all budgets and interest levels.

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Tours range from 1 to 5 days and custom tours are available, the areas visited include Taboga Island, Contadora Island and the Pearl Island region. While touring, you will also be able to observe dolphins, snorkel and take photos.

Whale Watching Panama has arranged a variety of tours that include lectures by authors, animal communicators, naturalist guides, biologists and energy healers leading the groups to maximize their experiences.

For more information contact: Anne Gordon de Barrig처n (507) 6758-7600 anne@whalewatchingpanama.com www.WhaleWatchingPanama.com

The Whales & Dolphins are waiting for you...

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PANAMA BLUE

RAINFOREST PURE SPRING WATER

Local water with international standards.

The Panama Blue spring water well is located 800 meters above sea level in the primary forests of Cerro Azul, a mountainous part of the Panama Province, surrounded by the Chagres National Park consisting of 129,000 hectares of protected tropical rainforest.

The mineral rich soil and volcanic rocks in the area filter the water, nourishing it with the right components that position Panama Blue as one of the best waters in the world.

The spring’s vicinity to the park and its altitude are key in the production of high quality natural spring water. Since the plant is located on top of the mountain, there is no soil contamination from pesticides used in farming. Only organic produce is grown within the Panama Blue estate under their supervision.

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Panama Blue Rainforest Pure Spring Water comes from an aquifer. An aquifer is an underground layer of water-bearing permeable rock where groundwater can be usefully extracted using a pump. Normally aquifers flow to the surface of the earth from underground as springs.

Quality control and supervised process:

The water bottling plant facilities work with a “clean room” system which is the same system that hospitals use in their ORs. This is achieved by injecting positive pressure into the room avoiding contact with the air outside the building. The plant uses oxy floors just like the ones hospitals use in their ORs , employees wear masks and protective suits and most important of all, the water never comes into contact with the air that we breath. It goes straight from the well to the bottle so the first time the water experiences exposure oxygen is when you open the bottle and this not only gurantees the best quality, but also gives the water a long shelf life.

When producing water, every aspect of the environment is registered by the in-house laboratory specialists, to make sure quality control is properly followed and this includes precipitation, weather conditions, earth tremors, etc.

At the plant the water goes through filtering processes, ozone and UV (ultraviolet), making the water innocuous, yet maintaining the right balance to produce quality water without altering its mineral water benefits. Panama Blue is 100% natural and contains no preservatives.

All of these steps results in the highest quality product; which is why Panama Blue can compete with internationally renowned waters like Evian, Volvic and even Fiji.

People fall in love with the product.

The first thing that captures your attention is the design.

The bottle design has a highly visual impact and the design components are a fusion of several elements: The flower used in the design is called “Pico de Loro” and is very common in the area of Cerro Azul, the font used in their logo dates back to 1855 (the year the Panama Railroad was built) and the back of the bottle was designed by a local artist capturing the essence of the Cerro Azul landscape, rich in vegetation and abundant water. The name Panama

included in their brand evokes the owners’ pride in the country in which they live and their relationship with “blue” comes from the appearance from a distance of the mountains of Cerro Azul (Blue Hills) home to the water spring.

Basically, every element in the label has a meaning.

Of course and more importantly, the water quality is incredible, PH balanced and specially filtered so the mineral components stay in the water.

Panama Blue won the gold medal in the 2008 Water Innovation Awards celebrated in Wiesbaden, Germany, competing with 201 entries from 40 countries.

Later in 2010 Panama Blue won the International Global Certification Award for management quality.

Panama Blue water plant is the only plant in Panama, Central America and the region certified with both ISO14001, ISO9001, NSF (USA), HACCP, a Kosher product certified by New York State (OU) Orthodox Union.

Panama Blue Rainforest Spring Water was the first Panamanian water exported to the USA, achieving certifications in 42 states .

Beside Panama Blue’s high quality standards and commitment to the eco-system as a “green company”, they are active supporters of social awareness contributing to The Special Olympics, programs like “COLORISA” who work with areas affected with crime and violence, enhancing their quality of life, and other causes such as cancer awareness and sports. Panama Blue supports approximately 25 families in the Cerro Azul area, and values their human resources the same way they value their product.

Panama Blue, outstanding entrepreneurship, outstanding product!

For more information go to: www.panamasprings.com or call (507) 279-0811

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BOCAS DEL TORO

CHOCOLATE??

By Adam Armstrong

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The Oreba Chocolate Tour in Bocas del Toro not only highlights cacao cultivation and chocolate production which is quickly becoming one of Panama’s most coveted exports, but also lets visitors experience life in an indigenous Ngabe community.

With its lush greenery and native chocolate making demonstrations, the tour is just over a year old now and is receiving rave reviews just about anywhere you look. Just as some of the world’s best coffee comes from Boquete, Panamanians are starting to discover that some of the world’s best chocolate comes from Bocas del Toro.

During the Oreba Chocolate tour, local guides who are cacao farmers in the community describe and show the entire process of organic shade-grown cacao, explaining every step of the way including growing, harvesting, fermenting, drying and ultimately roasting and making chocolate.

The tour, which is completely run and managed by the indigenous Ngabe farmers in the community takes travelers on an adventurous hike that weaves in and out of jungle and cacao trees and because the tour takes place within the protected shade grown farms of the locals there are always many animals to see along the way. Being able to spot poison dart frogs, sloths, and toucans is not uncommon.

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The highlight of the tour has to be the chocolate demonstration where local Ngabe women in traditional dress teach each visitor how to make chocolate the way they have been doing it for centuries. This all takes place under a traditional thatched roof rancho tucked away in the mountainous cacao farm which makes the chocolate-making demonstration even more special. The tour concludes with a traditional Ngabe meal consisting of some of the most delicious vegetables, local roots and chicken around.

Even though you will be in jungle, you are going to want to make sure to bring your wallet as there will be plenty of chocolate and cacao products to buy at the end of the tour. Available for sale are dark chocolate, nibs, roasted cacao,

or the 100% pure chocolate used for baking and making hot chocolate and if you would like to buy more. I suggest getting the nibs as they are great to put into baked goods, shakes or just to eat.

100% of proceeds go to the community and portions of the proceeds go directly towards education and health care for the community so after you have indulged yourself with delicious chocolate you can feel good about supporting the local indigenous community as well. There is no doubt that for tourists and locals who are in Panama seeking something different, informative, adventurous, and delicious, the Oreba Chocolate Tour should be at the top of your list.

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Booking Information and Other Specifics:

The tour is located in Bocas del Toro and is just 15 minutes from the boat dock in Almirante.

Please book ahead in Bocas Town at Hostel Heike, Casa Verde, Super Gourmet at (507)7579357 or by calling (507)6649-1457 for Spanish and (507)6411-5670 for English. Depending on bookings, tours run twice daily starting at 9:30 a.m. and 1:00 p.m. from the Bocas Marine Tours boat dock in Almirante. The tour runs about 3-4 hours.

Transportation is included to and from Almirante (on the mainland, a 15 minute boat ride from Bocas Town) and 15 minutes away from the Oreba Chocolate Tour in Rio Oeste Arriba.

Prices of the tour range from $25 - $37 depending upon the amount of people in the group and payment method. There is a two person minimum.

You can find Oreba Chocolate on the internet on Facebook and TripAdvisor.com Oreba Chocolate products can be bought at Super Gourmet in Casco Viejo and Bocas Island.

Special thanks to Salomon Quintero, Oreba Chocolate President

“What you see before you, my friend, is the result of a lifetime of chocolate.”

- Katharine Hepburn

“Strength is the capacity to break a Hershey bar into four pieces with your bare hands and then eat just one of the pieces.”

- Judith Viorst, Love & Guilt & The Meaning Of Life, Etc

“My therapist told me the way to achieve true inner peace is to finish what I start. So far today, I have finished 2 bags of M&M’s and a chocolate cake. I feel better already.”

- Dave Barry

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ISLA CAÑAS

SEA TURTLE TOUR

Sea turtles are marine reptiles that inhabit the entire world’s oceans except for the Arctic. Most species of sea turtles are endangered and many of them are threatened during the nesting period by area locals. Their meat is considered gourmet in some countries, tortoise shells are sold at black markets, and imprecise fishing methods such as long-lining expose turtles to the bycatch effect.

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Awareness is increasing and animal protection activists are actively educating people about the importance of conservation.

Isla Cañas Tours is a virtual eco-tourism agency working in collaboration with ANAM (National Environmental Authority of Panama). One of the main focuses of Isla Cañas Tours is the conservation of sea turtles.

Isla Cañas is located in the Tonosí district nearby the popular town of Pedasí where most visitors find adequate lodging. Pedasí offers a variety of services unavailable in other surrounding areas and therefore serves as an excellent base point to explore the region. If you are lodging in the town of Pedasí, Isla Cañas Tour can pick you up at your hotel and take you to Tonosi.

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The tour starts with a comfortable boat ride to Isla Cañas and during the ride you will be able to appreciate the magnificent views, observe different types of sea birds, and a large extension of mangroves (the region has approximately 12000 hectares of mangrove). Once you arrive at the island’s port, dinner will be served while the sun sets - generally dinner consists of a local dish like fish and fried plantain.

As the night falls, you will be taken for a trip around the island in a wagon pulled by horses. Once you arrive at the beach, one of the island’s guides will instruct you on how to behave while visiting the protected area.

The tour takes about 2 hours and the total trajectory covers around 2km of beaches. Once at the main site, you will be able to observe and take photos of turtles nesting just meters away from you. This is a unique experience to observe the cycle of life, an ancient turtle ritual.

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These tours take place between July and November, with August, September, October and November being the busiest nesting periods. There are opportunities to observe an arrival, where 1000 turtles come at night to nest, and by October and November, you will have the opportunity to see the birth of thousands of turtles.

For more information contact: Daniel Pérez Cel: (507)6718-0032 Islac2010@hotmail.com ICT|Isla Cañas Tours.

“We take you to a unique destination, we give you the option to come, and you find a thousand reasons to return”

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TOP CHEF SUPPLY CO. How it all starts‌

When opening a hotel, restaurant, industrial kitchen, catering service, etc., it is very important to evaluate, plan and develop several steps to make a business successful.

Top Chef Supply Co., with 30 years of experience in the food and service industry, is here to help and guide you through each and every one of these steps.

Tailored made solutions for your business: Building or adapting a commercial or industrial kitchen is very different from a home kitchen. Creating the right blueprints will allow you to design a kitchen that will not only have the correct standards for industrial equipment such as stoves and refrigeration but building a commercial kitchen will allow you to facilitate an efficient workflow that translates into a timely delivery of goods to the dining room.

When designing a kitchen, your business plan should be taken into account. For example: what are the menu requirements in regards to space and preparation, how many people will be served, what will the dish rotation ratio be, how many groups can be served at the same time.

When it comes to equipment, Top Chef Supply Co. offers a wide variety of products such as kitchen utensils, cookware, baking supplies, cutlery, tabletop and serving accessories, dinnerware, glassware, bar accessories, stoves, ovens, ice makers, misting fans, storage cold rooms, etc.

One of the key components to running a safe and productive kitchen is maintenance and technical support.

At Top Chef Supply Co. we have a team of professionals including certified technicians to give you the support your business requires.

Our staff of specialized chefs, architects and engineers will guide you in developing a profitable and successful business, offering complete solutions from the beginning of a project to remodeling, construction, kitchen design, equipment and supplies.

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Photos by PEPPOPHOTOGRAPHY

RANDOMLY GOOD part 2

Doing a piece about what is good and trendy out there is not enough for a country with constant change and growth.

In this edition, we bring you an eclectic and creative selection of cuisines, some of the top of the heap!

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Tejas

Tejas restaurant, located in Trump Hotel Panama offers an innovative approach to seafood with a twist of Latin American and Caribbean influences.

The restaurant has it all, good ambiance, excellent service, and arguably the best food in Panama.

Even though the restaurant’s specialty is seafood, we started our evening with the most delicate in-house aged prime rib carpaccio served with Aceto balsamic ice cream, parmesan crumble, olive oil gummies and fresh micro herbs, subtle and delicate yet profound.

The dinner progressed with the octopus terrine, served with ñame puree, arugula, diced chorizo and chorizo oil, very creative and attractive.

The highlight of the evening was the white tuna salad served with beets and spinach. This dish was an unexpected explosion of flavors, the white tuna was cooked to perfection and the combination of ingredients was a match made in heaven.

After our flavor explosion, we were again pleasantly greeted by the most flavorful and velvety jumbo shrimp risotto with spinach, mascarpone cheese and a bit of basil.

At this point dinner had become a journey and we arrived in the land of the crispy tuna. This dish was inspired by the concept of a strudel, the crispy crust filled with the freshest lightly seared tuna, the sweetness of the vanilla infused cauliflower puree, and the sun dried tomato pesto create a well-rounded and exotic combination that will entertain your palate.

We thoroughly enjoyed the sole, sautéed and served over creamy Basmati rice and an unctuous roasted peanut curry sauce.

Again, you could ask yourself who orders beef in a seafood restaurant. We did and we are proud of it! Tejas restaurant ages its own beef and we strongly recommend it.

On this occasion we ordered the Black Angus beef tenderloin with onion compote and the most delectable gorgonzola ravioli. If you know your meat, you will appreciate the delicate yet powerful flavors and texture.

Last but not least, dessert the way it should be, 5 textures of chocolate served on a playground of flavors accentuated by rosemary, who knew!

Kudos…we shall return!

Hours: Monday through Saturday from 6:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.

Tel: (507) 215-8800 / (507) 215-8828 www.trumphotel.com Location: Punta Colon street, Punta Pacifica, Trump Hotel Panama.

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Photos by PEPPOPHOTOGRAPHY

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Photos by PEPPOPHOTOGRAPHY

Vinoteca Cucina de Ciniglio

The Ciniglio family arrived from Italy in the early 1900s and since then they have delighted Panamanians and foreigners with wholesome good Italian home cooking.

In 1963 they opened a restaurant with a dining room, terrace and a takeout section. Many of us were privileged to grow up with Ciniglio’s cuisine, and cherish many good memories of a Sunday family lunch with spaghetti and meat balls and ravioli in tomato sauce among other good old time favorite dishes.

As life progresses the life of a chef and restaurateur continues to evolve, and in 1994 chef Rafael Ciniglio opened the “Trattoria D’America” where he was able to express his culinary talents with no restraint to our delight.

If it is true that life progresses, it is also true that at some point we need to slow down and smell the roses, so Ciniglio decided to take it easy, close the Trattoria leaving the take out restaurant open. Little did he know that after a couple of months he would be running up and down the walls craving to cook again! That is how we arrive at the present.

In June 2011, Chef Ciniglio and his daughter Adriana opened Vinoteca Cucina de Ciniglio together, a restaurant perfect to enjoy good wine, good traditional Italian food and good company. Chef Rafael is in charge of the kitchen and Adriana is the General Manager. What a duo! It is so refreshing to visit Vinoteca, the decoration, the service and the welcoming hosts always chatting with regular customers. This is a very uplifting place.

On this occasion we started with the fresh jumbo shrimp stuffed avocado served with a delicious cocktail sauce, a very bright and joyful combination.

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Moving on to the world of pure comfort and selfgratification we tried the Provoleta, melted Provolone cheese mixed with artichoke, tomatoes with a side of house bread. Very indulgent.

we ordered the traditional Tiramisu made with real homemade mascarpone cheese, it has the right balance of ingredients and transports you to a little town somewhere in Italy.

Hold that feeling! Here it comes… the fettuccine Boscaiola, delicate homemade pasta topped with a creamy Porcini mushroom sauce, very comforting and pleasant, yet unpretentious.

The king of the party is without a doubt the white chocolate ice cream with white chocolate bites, topped with strawberries and blackberry sauce.

Since it was lunch time and everybody had to go back to their jobs, we didn’t pair our dishes with wine, however the chef insisted we pair our dessert with “the most incredible wine” called Moscatto D’Asti, familia Batasiolo. The combination of the wine and the desserts was beyond our wildest dreams, sweet dreams, ciao!

The homemade chorizo, prosciutto, and pancetta stuffed Porchetta pork chop is a masterpiece, the range of flavors presented in this dish can only be achieved by years of experience mastering the culinary art. This dish is an artistic expression by

someone who owns his kitchen, no doubt!

Almost done…. but not quite. We now experience the cuisine of the north of Piamonte with homemade Agnolotti served with slowly cooked pork and wine sauce and the secret and sacred holy trinity of cooking: onions, garlic and celery. Very exotic.

Our craving for sweets was more than satisfied since the desserts here are superlative. On this occasion,

Photos by PEPPOPHOTOGRAPHY

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Hours: Monday to Friday from 12:00 p.m. to 3:00 p.m. and from 7:00 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.

Saturday from 12:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m.

Tel: (507) 223-7734 / 223-4676 reservas@vinotecapanama.com www.vinotecapanama.com Location: Obarrio, 57 and 1st street , over the right turn by Bingo 90.

Photos by PEPPOPHOTOGRAPHY

Puerta de Tierra

Puerta de Tierra Steak House is located in a restored building in the Old Quarter of Panama known as “Casco Antiguo” considered a cultural heritage site by UNESCO.

The restaurant’s colonial charm is accentuated by modern furniture and details and a warm and relaxed ambiance.

While we explored the menu, the house treated us to a quick snack, crispy fried yucca accompanied by a delicious cilantro mayonnaise and yellow pepper mayonnaise, a good way to start our lunch and tease our taste buds.

We decided to start with a sea bass ceviche with yellow pepper foam, passion fruit, sweet potato chips, red onions, peppers and cilantro, just amazing. The fish was extremely fresh and the combination of the flavors worked perfectly, the acidity, the sweetness and the textures played together like a symphony. Well executed.

Driven by curiosity we tried the unconventional Maduro Hot dog, a creative representation of a hot dog substituting its main elements with exotic ingredients. The bun is a sliced deep fried and battered ripe plantain; the sausage is substituted with skirt steak topped with melted Emmental cheese, and potato strings, served with Dijon mustard and ketchup.

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We went international and ordered a Thai salad with skirt steak, cilantro, chives, red onions, lemongrass vinaigrette, lemon and soy sauce. Refreshing and delicate to the palate, almost preparing us for our next endeavor… the 22oz rib eye loin!

If your specialty is meat, then your meat should be special, and we were not disappointed by the almost prehistorical piece of perfectly cooked, juicy and tender rib eye loin.

John Candy would have found in me a decent challenger in the steak eating feast in The Great Outdoors.

Pinch me, I’m done.

After such a delightful selection of dishes I thought nothing can surprise me now, and I stand corrected. I must say that during the whole process of choosing and trying and tasting, knowledgeable waiters guided us through the preparations and choices.

Even though we were full like the character of Monty Python’s The Meaning of Life, one of the waiters described a dessert so enthusiastically that hesitantly but curiously we agreed to try just a little of the “chocolate bomb”. It was so amazing we could not stop eating. The chocolate bomb is a ball of cherry, pistachio and chocolate ice cream covered in a thick crust of delicious and indulgent dark chocolate. It was so good I

could not get it out of my head and had to return the next week to put an end to my cravings.

I have been told that the white chocolate bomb is filled with exotic fruit sorbets, so I look forward to coming back for my steak and the bomb! Life is good!

Hours: Monday to Thursday from 12:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.

Friday and Saturday from 12:00 p.m. to 12:00 a.m.

Sunday from 12:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m.

Tel: (507) 228-6505 / 377-7747 info@puertadetierrapanama.com www.puertadetierrapanama.com Location: Casco Antiguo, Central Avenue with 9th street, beside La Merced Church, and Plaza Herrera.

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L’OSTERÍA:

Located by the chic and swanky Casa del Horno Hotel in Casco Antiguo, L’Osteria is yet another tastefully planned creation of young Italian entrepreneurs. I have been following their steps from their boutique hotel, refreshingly pleasant café and their Enoteca Di Vino. Slowly but surely conquering the Casco Antiguo with class and good taste.

Late lunch starts with a very indulging antipasti, a rustic tart made of melted smoked mozzarella cheese, béchamel and mushrooms topped with prosciutto. Excellent choice, a pat on the back! The flavors, the texture, the depth, and the quality of the ingredients is outstanding. It is amazing how simplicity can achieve such a great sensation.

We waltz to the primi, gnocci alla spuntature, gnocci served with a rich delicious sauce with pork ribs. This is one of those dishes that while you are eating it, you say to yourself “ I must come back and have this again, I must tell my friends… I must share my findings….I must…”. I consider this dish the highlight of our afternoon.

It is time for the secondi, we went traditional and ordered Saltimboca alla Romana, a beef rolled and filled with parmesan cheese, fresh salvia leaves, and pancetta with mashed potatoes on the side. Captivating presentation of flavors with character.

We ended our lunch on a high note like Gioachino Rossini ended the William Tell Overture with pizza capricciosa, a thin crusted pizza topped with tomato sauce, mozzarella cheese, mushrooms, artichokes, black olives, raw prosciutto and boiled eggs. Again the quality ingredients and the chef’s dexterity brought to the table a collection of textures, flavors and aromas that just pamper your palate and indulge your senses.

Hours: Open every day from 12:00 p.m. to 3:00 p.m. and from 6:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.

Tel: (507) 212-0809 listeria@casadelhorno.net Location: B Avenue, Casco Antiguo

Photos by PEPPOPHOTOGRAPHY

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Tántalo

Tántalo Hotel is one of the coolest places to hang out in Panama City; it is a dynamic, vibrant and even revolutionary venue. The restaurant’s approach is a modern expression of the concept of tapas, beyond the traditional tapa. Chef Pier De Janon spent some time in the culinary world of Chicago exposed to all trends before coming back to Panama. Pier had the opportunity to create a menu that goes along with the concept that entails Tántalo Hotel, thinking outside the box, preparing dishes with a twist.

We started with a “crazy corn fish ceviche”, local sea bass with cayenne mayonnaise, sweet corn and parmesan cheese, served with long focaccia toasts seasoned with fine herbs. Great contrast of flavors. Chef Pier tells us the dish was inspired by the “Elote Loco” corn on the cob seasoned with salt, chili powder, mayonnaise, lemon juice, cheese and sour cream, a street dish common in countries like Mexico and Guatemala.

We jump from the vibrant to the subtle and delicate, a beet carpaccio topped with onions, capers and parmesan cheese, surprisingly elegant and pleasant.

Talking about thinking outside the box, the Tántalo octopus is slowly cooked in wine and vinegar before it’s sautéed in aromatic herbs, coconut milk, ripe tomatoes, red onions, garlic, ginger and creamy yellow Peruvian chili. This is the perfect example of working with a local ingredient using a different approach.

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We continue to explore the menu and decide to fly to another latitude with the coconut cashew chicken breast served with chili and cilantro oil, by far the best I have tried in a long time, the chicken was perfectly cooked, and the sauce was rich and savory, a very indulgent dish executed to perfection.

When it comes to creativity, the Tántalo sliders are here to surprise the most demanding palates. These tiny patties are accompanied by the contrast of the exuberant burgundy red ketchup, blue cheese, Chinese spinach and onions. Chef Pier makes his own ketchup with jalapenos and tree tomatoes, also known as tamarillo. I bet you can’t just have one.

Our final dish was Aunt Michelle’s jumbo shrimp, a dish rich in flavor with a touch of tanginess. The shrimp is cooked in butter and a mix of spices, and finished up with lemon and Worcestershire sauce, hence the tanginess. It is addictive, and luckily for us the dish is served with bread so feel free to dig

into the sauce and clean that dish, go family style…go!

Hours: Everyday from 7:00 a.m. to 11:00 p.m.

Weekdays: Executive lunch available.

Friday and Saturday: Midnight menu from 12:00 a.m. to 4:00 a.m. (hot dogs, chili cheese fries, etc.)

Sunday brunch: 11:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. (American style) Tel: (507) 262-4030 Location: Avenue B & 8th street, Casco Antiguo

Photos by PEPPOPHOTOGRAPHY

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Photo by Bobby Pereira

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COFFEE 507-4

The coffee industry has become increasingly upscale and more complex. Gourmet coffee drinkers around the world won’t hesitate to spend what it takes to acquire the best beans out there.

Our little town of Boquete has become one of the most important coffee growing regions in the world with 1600 independent coffee producers and more than 25 companies that process coffee.

Panama, specifically Boquete, produces the most expensive coffee in the world, the Arabic Geisha (Gesha), followed by Indonesia with Kopi Luwak a coffee with a controversial and unconventional production process and Jamaica with Jamaica Blue Mountains.

Besides Arabic Geisha (Gesha), Boquete produces a great variety of Arabic coffees such Caturra, Catuai, Catimor, Mundo Novo, Villa Sarchi, Pache, Maragogype, Bourbon, Tipica Arabic, Pacamara, Java, Katuai and Caturra Amarillo.

It is all about quality, not quantity.

The best Arabics grow between the 1600 and 1800 meters, with the help of high precipitation and volcanic soils.

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Panama 9°80° recommends the following educational coffee tours: Casa Ruiz

Café Ruiz coffee Tasting The coffee tasting lecture starts with an introduction to the relation of smells, not only to identify different aspects of the product, but also to illustrate how smells create a common language for coffee tasters all over the world.

Each participant was presented with 4 unidentified coffee samples, and asked to write down the first things that come to mind. As beginners it was hard for us to identify the aromas, but as the instructor shared his findings, we all started, slowly but surely, to pick up different aromas like chocolate, spices, nuts, flowers, herbs, fruits, wood, sweetness, freshness, brightness, etc.

The second stage of the tasting consisted of “mouth feel”.

Once again, we were requested to write down how it felt, and what flavors and sensations come to mind. Having previously learned how to identify aromas definitely helps to detect the different elements in the coffee. Also we were instructed about different tasting techniques such as “the toddler kiss” which is basically making a bubble of air inside the mouth; rolling the coffee in the back between the molars and then swallowing, resulting in another sensation and dimension of the coffee.

Who would have thought, but we also tasted the water since water is a key element when making coffee and choosing the right water will definitely affect how your coffee is going to taste.

One surprising thing was that we tasted the coffee at room temperature, not hot; learning that when you drink hot coffee, you just drink it, you are not really appreciating the flavors or aromas.

One of the peculiar things from the beginning was that the 4 samples were presented in different vessels; 2 cups and

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2 shot glasses. Everybody has their own preferences, and this method proved that from what you drink your coffee plays a very important role in the experience; some of us were surprised to learn that a glass works out better than a cup, where others get the best flavor from a coffee mug.

The third part of the tasting consisted in a coffee pairing; we did not know such a thing existed!

The challenge was to pair banana bread and apple pie with our coffee samples, it seemed very easy but to our surprise, not all of our pairing choices worked together.

We had an opportunity to mix and match and taste again finding better suitors for our coffee delights.

At the end of the tasting the instructor revealed what kind of coffee we had been sampling, contributing to further knowledge and differentiation on the characteristics that now clearly define each kind.

The next step was a visit to Café Ruiz coffee plantations where we were able to observe the complete process of coffee making, from harvesting, floating, pealing, fermentation, washing, drying, aging, again peeling, sorting by size, shape, density, and color, roasting, milling, packaging.

After the visit to the plantation and processing plant, we returned to Café Ruiz coffee shop for the final tasting of the different roasts, the European, Latin and the Italian.

This coffee tasting opened a whole new world before us, and for some of us this was only the beginning.

Without a doubt this was a great learning experience.

Book a tour: Casa Ruiz, S.A. Tel: (507) 720-1000 www.casaruiz-panama.com www.casaruiz-boquete.com

Río Cristal coffee tasting tour

The tour starts in the coffee room at Finca Río Cristal, 1600 meters above sea level.

We were guided through the history and overall information about coffee, its production, how the plants grow, how they develop the flavors, the importance of the process and quality control to maintain the flavors, and the outcome of flavors in a roast, then the coffee tasting started.

What we’ve learned:

The coffee rating system from 0 to 100 Kotowa produces and sells Arabic coffee ranging from 80 to 100 points, considered quality and gourmet coffee, coffee ranging from 80 to 60 is commonly known as commercial coffee, and coffee ranging from 60 to 0 is considered garbage, at least to serious producers.

About Geisha coffee:

The Geisha coffee was brought from Ethiopia to America 20 years ago and planted in Costa Rica. It was planted below 1500 meters, and as a consequence it never developed properly. In order for Geisha coffee to develop its exotic characteristics, it has to be planted between 1500 and 1900 meters.

Why is Geisha coffee so coveted?

Geisha coffee plant develops extravagant flavors like flowers, fruits, fine herbs and all of them are developed by the plant and not influenced by surrounding plantations.

Boquete and Geisha coffee:

The Peterson family, coffee tasters, were the first to plant Geisha in Boquete.

They were surprised by the outcome of their Geisha plantation and took it to a coffee competition where they won first price.

Ever since, Boquete hence Panama, has been recognized as one of the best coffee producers in the world.

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Nowadays many farms in Boquete produce Geisha competing to get the best quality. This year Kotowa won for the best Geisha. A pound was priced at $93.00 unroasted and $140.00 roasted.

The highest price given to this coffee was in 2007, when a pound unroasted was priced at $172.00.

Boquete’s key location:

Boquete’s location, micro climate, altitude, and volcanic soil offer the best conditions to grow quality coffee.

The coffee plant is a tropical and sub/tropical plant; therefore it does not grow in cold places.

Quality vs. quantity:

Coffee connoisseurs around the world are willing to bid a lot more to get quality coffee. Actually, the prices are so astronomical due to the low production of Arabic gourmet coffee plantations compared to the high producing Robusta plants growing in countries like Brazil and Colombia.

Species:

The most famous species are the Robusta and Arabic.

Although Robusta flavor is not its best quality, 30% of coffee shops around the world sell Robusta because the plant

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produces large amounts of coffee. Each plant produces 2 pounds a year, and its coffee has twice the caffeine compared to Arabic.

Robusta grows from sea level to 800-1000 meters in warmer lands.

Arabic coffees are more exotic and extravagant producing flavors like almond, chocolate, fruits, flowers and fine herbs.

70% of coffee shops around the world use Arabic because of its refined characteristics. The limitations of Arabic coffee are just based on their production capacity. Caturra, Tipica and Cautai produce around 1 pound of roasted coffee per year, Pacamara and Geisha produce only ¼ pound a year per plant.

Arabic coffees like Caturra, Tipica & Catuai grow from the 1000 to 1500 meters developing all their characteristics, the Geishas and Pacamaras need to grow between 1500 to 1900 meters to develop all their exotic characteristics.

Coffee tasting

Tasting criteria:

Aroma, fragrance, acidity, body, aftertaste, balance, uniformity, sweetness, flavors. All flavors are natural from the plant.

We were presented with 6 cups of coffee beans, 4 Caturras with different roasting times, the American also known as light (roasting time 15 minutes) , the French, also known as traditional (roasting time 16 minutes), Espresso, also known as Italian (roasting time 17 minutes), a traditional roast organically grown, then 3 Geishas, one washed (roasting time 15 minutes) and Geisha natural dried with pulp (roasting time 15 minutes).

We milled every cup separately and started smelling the fragrance. The fragrance is the result of smelling dry milled coffee. We are guided through the different smells that Caturra is characterized with by and some of us were able to perceive them. Caturra coffee smells like almonds, chocolate and fruits.

The Geisha however smells like flowers, fruits and herbs.

Then comes the time to try the aroma. Boiling water offers the best conditions to absorb all the aromatic oils, flavors and smells. After pouring water in each cup with milled roasted coffee, we waited 4 minutes before smelling the aromas. Stirring and swirling the coffee helps to release and smell the aromas.

To taste the coffee that we have previously smelled, we remove the foam on top, and we are taught a tasting technique similar to impolite soup sipping that helps you activate all the sensors in your taste buds. This technique helps you appreciate the acidity, body and aftertaste.

When tasting the Caturra coffees, you get first the coffee flavor and then the second and third characteristics.

When tasting the Geisha coffee, you get first the fruits, herbs and flowers, and then in the back the coffee flavor.

It is said by coffee experts that 25% of coffee tasters in the world will be able to recognize all the flavors in coffee, 50% will not be able to appreciate any flavor or aromas in coffee ever and another 25% that by practicing develop their palate and pick up the aromas and flavors.

Book a tour: Tel: (507) 720-1635 / (507)832-5918 reservas@boquetetreetrek.com www.boquetetreetrek.com *(507 is Panama country code and 4 is Chiriquí province code) Panama 9°80° www.locationpanama.com

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Photo by: Isais Cubilla

BOQUETE ZIP LINING Boquete Tree Trek offers one of the best Canopy Zip Lines in Panama and the Central American region.

We began our journey at 1600 meters above sea level at Boquete Tree Trek Mountain Resort where we were geared up and instructed on safety practices by a team of guides who would join us in our adventure.

We drove up to 1800 meters to a point where we started a nature tour, hiking through the thick cloud forest of La Amistad International Park which extends to Costa Rican territory. As we walked through the jungle, we enjoyed impressive views of the Baru Volcano on one side and on the other side we observed the continental division mountain range that separates the province of Chiriqui from Bocas del Toro.

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Before we arrived at the first platform, we saw hermit birds nesting in the lush vegetation, exotic wild mushrooms and we learned about the important role of different plants in balancing the ecosystem.

As we approached the first platform, our group was filled with a mixture of anxiety, excitement and anticipation.

While standing at the platform, we were amazed by the views of the Rio Cristal, a rocky mountain river rich in minerals. This was our last chance to back out since once you jump the first line, there is no other way to go but forward! The team leader guide was is the first to jump; each guide will man a different platform where they will make sure that we have a safe landing and prepare us for a safe new ride.

Some of us realized that we were a bit afraid of heights, but this was the perfect opportunity to conquer fears and just go with the flow. Once you slide on the first line, an adrenaline rush and elation take over, and the first landing gives you confidence. A professional guide waits for you at each platform, cheering you on and instructing you on how to handle the next line.

Every line is different and the views are impressive and breathtaking and every guide offers interesting information about the area. There are a few platforms where you are able to meet up with the rest of your friends, relax a little bit and to take in the experience as you go. This is more than just an adrenaline rush, the surrounding nature is mind blowing, especially for those who come from busy cities.

Boquete Tree Trek Canopy Zip line was cleverly designed so your last landing point is the Mountain Resort restaurant deck. This is the perfect way to end a journey through thick jungle cloud forest, especially the fact that you are smoothly delivered back to full comfort.

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The trajectory is 3.5 km, consists of 14 platforms, 12 lines and takes about 4 hours to complete.

The guides´ professionalism and enthusiasm help you feel confident throughout the whole process, fears are conquered, and you leave charged with energy and a joy for life as well as an appreciation for nature.

What an experience – breathtaking, exhilarating and fun!

Once you have finished, you will want to do it all over again.

Contact information: Tel: 720-1635 /832-5918 info@boquetetreetrek.com www.boquetetreetrek.com

Photo by Noël Burgos

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Photo by: Isais Cubilla

Photo by: Isais Cubilla

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THE WATERMELON WAR It might seem a farcical name, a tragic/comic incident, but the riot that came to be known as the Watermelon War, which cost some twenty lives, serves as a historical allegory for the frictions that accompanied the relationship that would first build a trans-isthmian railroad, then a transoceanic canal.

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The year was 1856, seven years after the California Gold Rush had commenced, yet thousands of Americans, and more from around the globe, were still heading west to seek their fortune. For Panama and its newly completed railroad it was a heyday, a first experience as a mass transit point. However, the era of the building of the railroad and its new wave of passengers was not without its toll of strife and bloodshed.

The completion of the Panama Railroad left many who had worked on it unemployed, including native Panamanians and Antillean blacks who had been imported to construct the line. Adding to this resentment was the fact that many Americans remained employed after its completion as engineers, conductors and supervisors in well-paying jobs.

To add to this volatile scenario, some California-bound travelers did not behave themselves as courteous guests.

According to a display at the Canal Museum, “they drank, fired their guns in the air, belittled native customs, and disrupted religious processions, pulled statues of saints from the niches in front of Cathedrals.” It continues, “the inhabitants at first accepted stoically this behavior, being unaccustomed to it, but animosity developed.”

This was not the age of political correctness or cultural consciousness. Slavery was still legal in the United States and racial and class lines were clearly drawn. This attitude of intolerance had already resulted in a few violent episodes between residents and transients.

On April 15, 1856 the situation would explode. That day, nearly a thousand passengers disembarked from the mail steamer Illinois at Colón to make the train connection with the Pacific Mail Steamer John L. Stephens at Panama City for the journey on to California. Everyone was in good spirits as they boarded the train; several men in the group were especially rowdy, having stocked up on liquor for the train ride. One of these was a boisterous, pistol-toting American named Jack Oliver.

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The passengers arrived in Panama City that evening, many of them boarding the steam tender Taboga to be transported to a waiting ocean liner, as the city then had no docking capability for ocean going vessels. Oliver and his companions, however, took this layover time to get even further inebriated in local cantinas along the busy ocean front. Strolling about a block from the railroad station, Oliver grabbed a slice of watermelon from a street vendor, continuing on his merry way without paying.

The vendor brandished a knife and demanded payment. Oliver’s friend threw a dime at him, which only inflamed the situation. As the vendor approached, Oliver produced a pistol. Another resident grabbed his arm, the gun discharged, wounding a bystander, and the crowded scene exploded.

Outraged residents immediately set about attacking any foreigner they came upon. Hotel rooms were broken into and looted; passengers waiting near the train station were beaten or stabbed. The captain of the Taboga summoned the local police, who responded by disarming the passengers aboard the ship, whose fire had kept the mob onshore from assaulting the train station.

Seeing them disarmed, the mob then turned its attention on the station. Gunfire was being exchanged between the rioters and passengers holed up in this large brick building. What happened next is uncertain, but the army arrived on the scene. By some accounts they were trying to contain the throngs, but a stray shot from the building killed a soldier. The troops then turned their gunfire on the station. The enraged crowd battered down the door and murdered those they found on the first floor, but were prevented from ascending the stairs by gunfire.

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Then, like a scene from the old west, a train loaded with railroad workers, heavily armed, pulled up to the station in the nick of time. Before he had been overwhelmed and killed, the stationmaster had telegraphed for help. Suddenly heavily outgunned, the actively violent elements in and around the railroad building dispersed, most retreating into the surrounding crowd of onlookers, leaving the ground littered with the dead and dying.

In the aftermath, recriminations flew. A week later Provincial Governor Aniño made an official report listing the dead as 15 Americans and two natives, and the wounded as 16 Americans and 13 natives. He maintained that the Americans inside the railroad station had been heavily armed and had fired indiscriminately at everyone outside the building, military or civilian.

The official report released in Washington D.C. three months later would be seriously at odds with that account. According to it, “the dispute relative to

the slice of watermelon was seized upon as a pretext by the colored population to assault the Americans and plunder their property ... but the assault on the railroad station was deliberately planned by the police and mob.”

Two U.S. warships would be dispatched in the following months to Colon as the diplomatic furor over the incident evolved. Eventually, reparations were paid by the government of New Granada (then the political entity including Colombia that Panama was part of) to the railroad. U.S. demands for direct control over the entire railroad easement, however, were denied.

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THE MYTH OF THE

PANAMA HAT

The Panama hat, as sported by gentlemen such as Humphrey Bogart and Harry Truman has quite a story behind it. The truth be told, the Panama hat does not actually come from Panama, but rather from the South American country of Ecuador. Manufacturing of the hat began in the 1600s, and two centuries later, Ecuador began to export the hats, making them available at Panamanian ports. Panama hats are woven from a high quality palm straw named toquilla, making them ideal for blocking the strong tropical sun. For this reason, they were used by construction workers involved in the building of the Panama Canal. The hats were also picked up by gold merchants as they passed through the isthmus, thus spreading the hats around the hemisphere, and around this time, the hat became known as the Panama.

Soon worn by the fashion elite around the world, the Panama had made its debut on the Paris catwalk in 1855. Now making a return to the fashion world, they are unmistakably Ecuador’s most famous handicraft. After all, can you think of another?

Panama hats, the epitome of style and sophistication, are available in Panama at most of the handicraft markets.

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PANAMA LA VIEJA

UNESCO World Heritage Site, Panamá La Vieja, commonly known as Panamá Viejo, is the seat of the original Panama City, founded in 1519 by Pedro Arias de Dávila. This was the first Spanish settlement on the Pacific coast of the Americas. Located on the far eastern side of the current city, these ruins are all that remains of the original city, which was burned down by Welsh Buccaneer Henry Morgan in 1671.

Since much of the original city was made of wood, the ruins are not that extensive, although they are well-maintained and make for an interesting visit. The Panama Viejo Foundation, made up of the ATP (tourism board), the INAC (cultural institute), Kiwanis Club, HSBC Bank and RILEMO foundation, have put together an intricate master plan and are working on the conservation and protection of the site, while at the same time developing it into an archaeological and historical park.

In recent years, several important archeological discoveries give evidence of pre-Hispanic residents.

The visitor center at Panama La Vieja has a collection of the archaeological finds and information about the history of the site.

Rates

Museum tour

Watchtower tour Museum

Watchtower tour

Adults

$3.00

$4.00

$6.00

Retirees

$2.00

$3.00

$5.00

Kids

$0.50

$2.00

$2.50

For more information, go to www.panamaviejo.org

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SALT AND SUGAR MUSEUM

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Located in the agricultural town of Aguadulce (sweet water and/or fresh water) in the Coclé province.

The production of sugar is one of the main activities of the region. Aguadulce is home to the largest sugar refinery in Panama, Azucarera Nacional, founded in 1911.

The salt production in Aguadulce has been one of the oldest and more representative activities in the region.

Aguadulce has hundreds of hectares of land dedicated to the production of salt from seawater.

The salt and sugar museum, also known as Museo Regional de Aguadulce Stella Sierra makes an interesting visit.

The ground floor is dedicated to temporal exhibitions on various themes such as paintings, photography, geology, literature, health and folklore.

The second level presents permanent exhibitions ranging from the historic indigenous presence in the region, pre-Columbine archeological findings, the extraction of salt from a cultural, social and economic perspective, the production of sugar and derived products, the history of Aguadulce, and distinguished personalities including a gallery honoring the local poet Stella Sierra, winner of the Ricardo Miró contest, the most prestigious literary award in Panama. Recordings of Stella Sierra are registered at the Library of Congress in Washington.

Tel: (507)997-4280 Location: Avenida Rodolfo Chiari, Plaza 19 de Octubre, Aguadulce, provincia de Coclé.

Hours: Monday to Friday from 9:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m.

Adults: $1.00 Kids: $0.25

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ORDER OF VASCO NUÑEZ DE BALBOA Vazco Nuñez de Balboa, a Spanish conqueror, was the first European to see the Pacific Ocean in 1513, and the first European who founded a permanent city in the mainland of America.

Established in July 1st, 1941, The Order of Vasco Nuñez de Balboa is awarded to Panamanians distinguished in science, arts and literature, and also granted to foreigners when the government considers them worth the honor.

Among the people who qualify for this order are chiefs of state, ministers, secretaries of state, foreign envoys, plenipotentiary ministers, legislators, generals, counter admirals, counselors, colonels, lieutenants, diplomatic staff, consuls, science and literary authors.

This order has 5 different criterias: Great cross extraordinaire, great cross, great officer cross, commander cross and knight cross.

To be awarded the Orden Vasco Nuñez de Balboa, the person has to be recommended by the Executive Organ through Chancery. This recommendation is evaluated by the Order’s board formed by the Minister of Foreign Relations, the Panama University dean, the President of the Supreme Court and the Foreign Relations Secretary.

Once the board approves the order, the Executive Organ grants it.

Some personalities that have been awarded are:

Desmond Tutu, South African activist and retired Anglican bishop Phyllis Powers: Former US Ambassador in Panama Mario Vargas Llosa: Peruvian-Spanish writer, politician, journalist, essayist, and recipient of the 2010 Nobel Prize in Literature Panama 9°80°

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GATUN LAKE SAFARI

by Asia Sherman

With a yee haw from Captain Carl Davis, the Jungle Land Explorer, filled with adventure seekers, jets off from the public dock in Gamboa and cuts through the man-made waters of Lake Gatun.

The destination – a 61-foot houseboat anchored in the middle of the hundredyear-old lake.

When the Panama Canal engineers flooded this portion of the Chagres River Valley between 1906 and 1913, they created what at the time was the world’s largest artificial lake. Hilltops became islands and the 164-square-mile lake provided a 183 billion-cubic-foot reservoir permitting the year-round operation of the Canal locks.

Under water remain the virtually intact hardwoods of the former river valley, representing an estimated $1.2 billion worth of timber. Markers, some morbid buoys hung with cattle skulls, are driven into the submerged trunks to protect the lake’s vessels against navigational hazards.

Peacock bass, snook, tarpon, tilapia, oscars, amberjack and a variety of other freshwater and marine life now populate this underwater forest and Captain Davis explains which are native to the lake and which, such as the amberjack, swim up through the locks for a freshwater vacation.

After 10 years of operating Jungle Land Explorer tours and living on the lake, there is little Carl Davis does not know about its fauna and flora. The experience is very much show and tell and the captain a formidable entertainer.

“This time of year, the waters are a bit cloudy,” he announces. “Usually the water is a little clearer, but it’s crocodile mating season. Or maybe they are just dancing.”

The motorboat moves through channels and around densely vegetated islands, the captain stopping to point out graceful egrets, colorful toucans and iguanas sunning in the foliage. Men paddling cayucos, canoes made of hollowed-out logs, glide by.

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After a bright morning, the day clouds over and the lake’s surface merges with the skyline creating a misty grey backdrop. In the transit channel, freighters, with names like Kaohsiung, stacked high with metal containers, sit awaiting passage through the locks.

Just beyond, the Canal expansion is underway. Giant cranes mounted on platforms dip into the lake like dinosaurs, retrieving watery mouthfuls of excavated dirt.

To the north, the lake’s largest and best-known island, Barro Colorado, is outlined in the distance. Home to the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute’s biological research-station, the island forms a 13,000-acre natural monument with five neighboring peninsulas, established in 1923.

When the sky breaks and the tropical downpour begins, sheets of rain drum against the boat’s roof and shower in through the open sides. The lake receives an annual average of 98 inches so visitors are told to come prepared. One dapperly dressed Canadian tourist sits primly with his folded umbrella, but others have pulled out plastic ponchos. Black howler monkeys, perched in treetops, curl under the heavy drops.

Alongside an island, a bag of bananas and grapes is passed from passenger to passenger. And then, the boat is under siege by small white-faced capuchin monkeys. They run out across the limbs stretching over the water to the boat and grasp the metal rails with their prehensile tails reaching fearlessly out for bits of banana. Racing back and forth and posing for pictures, when the fruit is gone, they disappear, one straggler peeking down from the roof as the boat pulls away from shore.

Captain Davis is dressed in outdoorsman all-weather clothing and flip-flops, his hair pulled back into a neat ponytail under a forest green baseball cap. With 20 years experience in the tourism industry and after six years working with large cruise ships docking in the Caribbean’s Hispaniola Island, he saw in Panama a new cruise port destination that had not yet been overdeveloped. The Panamanian ports, including the new Colon 2000 located in the world’s second largest duty-free area, welcomed over 160,000 cruise ship passengers according to 2007-2008 season Panama Tourism Authority statistics.

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Working with the cruise industry, tour agencies and large hotels, the Jungle Land Explorer offers day tours at a cost of $98 per person, including a lunch on the Gatun Explorer houseboat.

The lake’s first custom-built exploration vessel sits moored to the bank of a quiet lagoon surrounded by jungle.

Painted in olive greens, the double-deck floating facility includes the original houseboat, launches and a recently added barge connected by wooden planks.

On the upper covered decks, the houseboat staff brings out heaping plate of tamales, tropical chicken, bistec picado, vegetable rice and salad. Captain Davis, turned barman, serves a selection of wine and local beer from behind the bamboo cash bar.

After lunch, the captain asks if anyone would like some candy, answered by requests for dark chocolate and ice cream. He reaches into a large crate and emerges with a boa constrictor.

“Heeere’s Candy. Who wanted Candy?” he asks playfully as tourists line up to be draped and photographed with 5-foot Candy who could grow up 20 feet in her 40 to 50 year lifetime. Next, a tiny Cayman crocodile is shown around, its beady eyes alit with the glow of flashing cameras. The on-board menagerie also includes Boo, a timid night-monkey who hides out in a cabinet during the day in the audio-visual room next to the Gatun Explorer’s library of informational videos and books.

The visitors disperse to the various activities including fishing, kayaking, swimming and diving off the boat’s elevated deck. A waterfall excursion guides explorers across quiet waters carpeted with aquatic ferns and channels cut through floating islands. On off-days, the Jungle Land Explorer team has its own outings, doubling as an informal local park service - cleaning debris, improving navigational channels and gathering trash washed downriver.

For the more daring nocturnes, the Jungle Boat Explorer adventures also include torch-lit dinners and night safaris along the jungle shores. Powerful spotlights illuminate nature’s nightlife and help to locate and temporarily immobilize crocodiles, allowing the Captain to maneuver the boat close enough to some of the smaller ones for a memorable hands-on experience.

For now, the boat can accommodate small parties on the floating platform for a secure camping-style sleepover, but soon Jungle Land Explorers plans to expand its floating facilities, adding more comfortable accommodations for multiple-day stays.

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The original houseboat will leave its quiet lagoon mooring and take up residence in the lower reaches of the Chagres River, to explore the rich history of an area which, except for the Gatun Dam and the San Lorenzo fortress, looks much the same as when it was discovered by Christopher Columbus over 500 years ago.

For more information contact: Panama: Tel (507)836-5333 Toll free (USA): (1-866) 3903451 Email: paul@panamatours.com.pa reservations@panamavaluetravel.com

“This experience is a combination of Eco-Tourism and a close look at the Canal and its expansion. sights of vessels as they cross the Canal, encounters with wild animals and canoeing adventure to a fresh water hole make this Eco Adventure extravaganza a must see” Paul Kelly Panama Travel Advisor Patana Travel Corp

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Panama 9°80° www.locationpanama.com

Panama 9째80째

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Panama 9째80째