YAM Magazine Nov/Dec 2025

Page 1


Hosting tips

Easy bites

Fancy sweets

Great guest rooms and so much

Merry centrepieces to feast your eyes on

Wrap Yourself

Anna Sterloff
Harley Shim Heidi Asgar
Don St Germain Eileen Harper
Dean Innes
Glynis MacLeod Elena Livni
Brayden Klein Brad Maclaren
Andrew Hobbs
Grace Shin
Brian Danyliw
Beth Hayhurst
Andy Stephenson

How to Be a Great Host

Planning a party? Here’s how to ensure your guests have fun — and so do you.

Star of the Table

Create a festive focal point with these beautiful ideas for your holiday (or any) table.

Just a Cute Face

After being almost wiped out, sea otters have returned to the Island. It’s (mostly) a good news story.

HERE + NOW

Mercury rising; stylish ways to be cozy and comfortable; holiday markets; a luxurious cape; a botanical skin saver; adorable stuffies for kids big and small; cleaning products that care for the planet; cookbooks for those who love to entertain.

22 IN PERSON

Artist, filmmaker and musician Michael “Oz” Osbourne may be Victoria’s most stylish resident.

50 LIFE AT HOME

Expecting guests? Here’s how to create a welcoming space with a little effort — or a lot.

62 STYLE WATCH

Chill luxuriously this winter in lovely knits and cozy sets. Styled by Janine Metcalfe 94 SCENE

Still With Us remembers the impact of HIV/AIDS, artfully and movingly. Plus: Culture Calendar.

98 PERSPECTIVE

Look closer: The essence of an evergreen forest.

FOOD + DRINK

74 THE DISH

Fragrant truffles; Matt Cusano’s Calabrian vinaigrette; renovations around town; a taste of Bourgogne; Victoria’s Top Chefs; transitions; a culinary hub. 78 SPECTACULAR CELEBRATION

A step-by-step guide to making France’s glam celebration cake.

THE PERFECT PARTY

Be ready for anything with homemade rillettes, star of your party pantry.

92 BETTER WITH BITTERS

How to use cocktail bitters — and make your own from aromatic botanicals.

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HOLIDAY TRADITIONS, OLD AND NEW

What are your plans for the holidays? Me, I plan to spend most of it in the kitchen, baking complicated things and making the sort of food that takes days of prep time. I plan to curl up with Samin Nosrat’s new cookbook, Good Things, and enjoy her wise and gentle counsel. And then I hope to share all that deliciousness with the people I care for.

Only thing is that it’s not looking so easy to do this year. It’s one of those years when everyone is either travelling or they’ve moved away. Truth be told, I’m also the one who’s moved on, leaving so many of my friends behind when I came to Victoria a few years ago.

And so it’s recently dawned on me that maybe it’s time to create a new set of holiday traditions.

I loved our Christmases growing up. We always celebrated on Christmas Eve, and it was purely magical, getting all dressed up to open the gifts, being allowed to sip just a little Champagne, then enjoying an elaborate feast cooked by my granny, and later on by my mom, and eventually by my sister or me. Even as we got older and added new members to the family and sometimes spent the holidays apart, we kept up our traditions as well as we could, though some — like granny’s very bony baked carp — we happily let slip away.

But now many of the people who once sat around our table are gone, and here we are, the ones who are left, settled in Victoria. And this is a marvellous place to spend the holidays. I love the Twelve Days of Christmas at The Butchart Gardens, the IEOA Truck Parade downtown, the Lighted Ship Parade in Sidney and all those “light up” festivals throughout the region. I love the Wonderheads Christmas Carol — truly, if the season needs one thing, it’s more giant puppets — and the Messiah by candlelight at the cathedral. And I love all the holiday markets, the seasonal treats and the fact that on Christmas Day, we can walk along the waterfront and not have to shovel a mountain of snow to get there.

Which of those, I wonder, will become part of my new holiday traditions? Whichever they are, I still plan to cook all the fancy things and to share them with whoever I can gather around my table. And whatever your own plans and traditions are, old or new, all of us here at YAM wish you the happiest and most joyful of holiday seasons.

PUBLISHERS Lise Gyorkos Georgina Camilleri

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Joanne Sasvari

DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY Jeffrey Bosdet

LEAD GRAPHIC DESIGNER Janice Hildybrant

ASSOCIATE GRAPHIC DESIGNER Kelly Hamilton

ADVERTISING CONSULTANTS Deana Brown Jennifer Dean Van Tol Cynthia Hanischuk Brenda Knapik Ieva Sakalauskaite

ADVERTISING CO-ORDINATOR Rebecca Juetten

MARKETING & EVENTS

CO-ORDINATOR Lauren Ingle

FASHION EDITOR Janine Metcalfe

COPY EDITOR Lionel Wild

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Tom Gierasimczuk, Melissa Gignac, Sara Harowitz, Gail Johnson, Julien Johnston-Brew, David Lennam, Christine Sismondo

EDITORIAL INTERN Julien Johnston-Brew

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Dasha Armstrong, Molly Jane, Jacob McNeil

CONTRIBUTING AGENCIES Alamy p. 56, 58, 98; Getty Images p. 17, 32, 47, 50, 55, 60, 61, 68, 72 73, 84, 88; StockFood p. 32, 34, 36, 86, 87, 89; Stocksy p. 1, 12, 15, 29-32, 33, 45, 48

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ON THE COVER The Star of the Table, p. 44 Photo by Serena Burroughs/Stocksy

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MERCURY GLASS MEMENTOES

These reflective baubles shine with nostalgic charm.

Of all sparkling things to catch our eyes this holiday season, mercury glass ornaments are perhaps one of the more subtle. What makes these decorations shine is (literally) below the sheer surface.

Originating in early 1800s Bohemia, mercury glass features double-glass walls that contain a reflective layer of metal — but not mercury. Although mercury was used as a reflective material in earlier mirrors, mercury glass is typically made with silver nitrate, earning it the alternate name of “silvered glass.”

Initially popular as a more affordable silver lookalike for housewares, mercury glass has since faded out of use in lieu of more durable products — except for, of course, decorations and ornaments.

Combined with surface etchings, intricate moulds and colourful painted-on details, mercury glass ornaments today come in a wide variety of shapes, forms and styles. Whichever you prefer, mercury glass, the coated-from-the-inside metallic look gives these ornaments a lovely sense of depth that shifts with each angle.

Comfort & Joy

HOW TO FIND WARMTH ON EVEN THE COLDEST OF WINTRY DAYS.

As we head into the coldest, darkest, shortest and gloomiest days of the year, these are the things that are giving us comfort right now.

A Warm Glow

The gentle wooden curves and soft, warm light of the Artem 1 table lamp from Victoria’s Mike Randall Designs create a serene ambience — and, as each is custom-designed to order, a striking conversation piece, too. mikerandalldesign.ca

The Softest Pillow

Who knew that the world’s softest, most luxurious pillows were being made just across the Salish Sea in Vancouver? St. Genève uses the highest-quality, ethically sourced goose, duck and eider down in its dreamy pillows and duvets. stgeneve.com

A Mug for Hot Chocolate

Nature has many comforting properties; this hand-thrown Monet’s Pond Wildflower Mug from Victoria’s Hands On Clay Collective brings nature indoors in the form of a handy vessel for warming drinks. handsoncollective.ca

A Calming Bath

Sometimes you just need to escape the cares of the world with a steamy soak in the tub. An Oatmeal Honey Bath Bomb from Vancouver Island Soapworks will soothe both your skin and your soul. vancouverislandsoapworks.com

RICHÈRE TRUDEAU

A Chair to Snuggle Up In

With its softly curved wings, rounded seat and faux shearling upholstery, the Pallas lounge chair from Vancouver-based Rove Concepts is a veritable cocoon of comfort. roveconcepts.com

The Return of the Nap Dress

Truly, who doesn’t love a garment that’s as romantic as it is comfortable? Forget the stretchy pants; this 100-per-cent cotton Allison nightdress from Irish Linen Stores is our choice for lounging around the house. irishlinenvictoria.com

Market Meet-Up

Bring your loved ones along to these local markets for all your handmade, homemade and homegrown gift-shopping needs.

CREATIVE CRAFT FAIR

November 7 to 9, Pearkes Rec Centre

> Enjoy one of Vancouver Island’s most established fairs at this 46th annual shindig, which features more than 125 vendors selling crafts, gourmet food, fine art, photography, clothing, glassworks, jewelry, bath and beauty products, woodwork and more. creativecraftfairs.com

YULETIDE MARKET SERIES

November 7 to December 18, Bilston Creek Farm

> Over the span of six weekends, these Metchosin-based pop-ups showcase rotating local vendors at each market. Indulge in wood-fired pizza, hot drinks and live music as you shop and soak in the farm’s rustic charm. Additionally, nightly markets the week before Christmas are a good opportunity to score last-minute gifts. bilston.ca

FIRST & LAST CHANCE

CHRISTMAS CRAFT SHOWS

November 8 and 9, December 12 to 14, Mary Winspear Centre

> Boasting more than 70 artists and artisans, Sidney’s multi-day craft shows exhibit works with that one-of-a-kind human element for any gift recipient. Plus, on-site lunch and drinks from Mensch Kitchen & Catering will keep you fuelled throughout. firstandlastchance.ca

CHRISTMAS VINTAGE FAIR

SIP & SHOP

November 14 and 15, Da Vinci Centre

> Relive bygone eras by perusing vintage clothing, toys, kitchenware, pop culture and sports memorabilia, comic books, video games and more. On day two, visit Santa and Rudolph as they drop in ahead of the holidays. islandvintageevents.com

OWL DESIGNER FAIR

November 22 and 23, Fernwood NRG

> This annual community craft show features free craft workshops, food trucks and a bydonation door prize draw, as well as a variety

of handmade soaps, candles, local fashion, leather goods, ceramics, home decor and much much more. And in the season of giving, proceeds support a selected local non-profit. owlfair.com

OUT OF HAND MODERN MARKET

November 27 to 30, Crystal Garden

> In addition to vendors from across B.C. sharing contemporary crafts and designs, this 36th annual market’s opening night features special offers, live music and giveaways, as well as a Family Fun Hour in partnership with Kaleidoscope Theatre before the Santa Claus parade. outofhand.ca

WINTER BAZAAR

November 28 to 30, Gorge Park Pavilion

> More than 110 artists and artisans from across B.C. and Alberta will fill the pavilion’s two floors with everything from Indigenous art and medicine to jewelry, pottery and clothing. Plus there will be wreath-making workshops, a photo booth and food and drink to enjoy. winterbazaar.org

A TOUCH OF SALT SPRING CHRISTMAS CRAFT SHOW

December 5 to 7, Saanich Fairgrounds

> Since migrating to Vancouver Island from Salt Spring, this annual show features upwards of 200 crafters and artisans offering unique selections from B.C. and Alberta with accompanying food, desserts and refreshments for shoppers’ enjoyment. atouchofsaltspring.com

DICKENS FAIR

December 6, James Bay Community Centre

> Celebrating 44 years of festive cheer, this fair hosts more than 60 carefully curated artisans, both established and emerging, showcasing affordable goods made with heart. The variety and quality will impress even the Scrooge-iest of shoppers. jamesbaymarket.com

Cape Hero

When only cashmere will do.

For those times you need a stylishly versatile layering piece that you can toss over your shoulders and just go, there’s this lovely fringed cashmere cape from Vancouver-based Black Goat Cashmere. It hits all the season’s top trends — capey, drapey, fringey and a gorgeous shade of red — but it’s also a cozy classic you’ll love for years to come. Sustainably and ethically sourced from Mongolian goats, this is not your flimsy, easily pilled, mass-produced cashmere, but a luxurious material that moves elegantly with you. It’s shown here in Terra, but comes in six other classic hues. blackgoatcashmere.com

Complexion Protection

How to save face when the weather is cold and dry.

Winters here on the South Island may not be as harsh as they are in other parts of the country, but the dry, windy, chilly weather still takes a toll on our skin. To protect ourselves, it helps to bundle up, stay hydrated, avoid using harsh cleansers and, most of all, slather on the moisturizer.

Lately, we’ve fallen in love with the nourishing creams and lotions from Sangre de Fruta, a botanical-based line from Bowen Island. Brentwood Bay Resort just started carrying these gorgeously fragrant products at their spa, where they are used in massages, facials, pedicures and soaks.

The Botanical Hand & Body Lotion, for instance, comes in three different fragrances — the woodsy Garden of Earthly Delights, floral Head of Roses and deeply romantic Neroli Noir. It’s a silky, fast-absorbing lotion formulated with aloe vera, olive oil, jojoba oil and sea buckthorn oil, as well as soothing calendula, horsetail and marigold extracts.

It might just be the soothing solution your dry, itchy, flaky, achy winter skin has been crying out for. sangredefruta.com

Not Just for Kids

Sweet Jellycat stuffies are fun, funny and utterly adorable.

We’re a little late to the Jellycat party, but now that we’re here, we may never leave. If you, too, are just catching up with this most adorable of trends, Jellycat was born in London in 1999, when brothers Thomas and William Gatacre introduced their exceptionally soft plush toys to the world. You’ve almost certainly come across their most iconic creations, the sweet, droopyeared Bashful Bunny and sassy black-and-white Jellycat Jack.

Today there are dozens and dozens of different Jellycat toys, but what we love best are the quirky “Amuseables,” which range from foodstuffs (think: plush baked goods, fruit or bowls of ramen) to plants (potted monsteras or pink orchids) to objects such as storm clouds, ukuleles, pencils, even a toilet roll. These limited-edition toys quickly become collectors’ items.

For holiday 2025, you might find a squishy-soft snowflake or a snow globe, gingerbread house or mug of hot chocolate, pairs of mittens or ski goggles — you get the idea. Little kids will love them; big grown-ups might just like them even more. In Victoria, you can find Jellycat toys at Fan Tan Home & Style. fantanvictoria.com

Sangre de Fruta lotion scented with Neroli Noir.
Amuseables Snow Globe

Minty Fresh

These Island-based cleaning products are kind to the planet — and to you, too.

Cleaning is rarely our favourite activity, but we’ll admit that it’s awfully satisfying when the place is spotless, the dishes sparkling, the laundry fresh and fragrant and folded away. It’s even more satisfying when we know that the products we used to get things that way are not just gentle on the planet and our health, they’re made right here in B.C.

So we were pretty excited to discover Mint Cleaning, a line of eco-friendly cleaning products created by Ucluelet-based best friends Robyn Mair and Monika Scott. They’d started a cleaning company back in 2016, but when they developed health issues from the harsh products they were using, they formulated their own line of plant-based, essential oil-infused, refillable cleaning products.

And it seems the world was ready and waiting for them. The friends have appeared on Dragon’s Den, where four of the five dragons wanted to make a deal. They’ve also won multiple awards, opened a flagship retail store in Ukee and launched into more than 250 retail locations across Canada.

Among their products are dish soap, all-purpose cleaner, laundry detergent, hand soap and their original product, Mint Cleaning Scrub, a powerful multi-purpose cleaning powder designed to whisk away grime on everything from carpets to countertops. Mint Cleaning products are available at several retailers around Victoria, or through their website at mintcleaningproducts.com.

A

All Together Now

These new cookbooks serve up the latest trend in dining: doing it with other people.

GOOD THINGS: Recipes and Rituals to Share with People You Love

Celebrate New Year’s Eve in timeless style—and countdown in a night of sophistication filled with champagne, oysters, and live music.

December 31, 2025

8:00pm – 2:00am

Nosrat’s first book, Salt Fact Acid , changed the way home cooks cook. Her new one is set to change the way we think. Yes, it’s filled with instantclassic recipes and useful techniques, but it’s really about the importance of regularly sharing meals with the people you love — not fancy dinner parties, but simple, even imperfect meals that are more about who’s around the table than what’s on it. Nosrat, always the kindest and most generous of teachers, also shares her own struggles with loneliness: “I began asking myself, ‘What is a good life?’ ” Her answer might just be found in this essential book.

HAVING

PEOPLE OVER:

A Modern Guide to Planning, Throwing, and Attending Every Type of Party

Speed Press)

cookbook, but more of a manifesto, a meditation

socializing is good for us, with tips, advice and just enough recipes to make you feel confident about throwing your own shindig. As Fagan, who is cofounder and CEO of the Financial Diet, writes: “Bringing people together is one of the most powerful things we can do right now.”

GATHER, SAVOR, SHARE: Beloved Staff Meals from the Aiāna Kitchen

By Raghav Chaudhary (Figure 1 Publishing)

In the restaurant world, the staff or family meal isn’t just essential nourishment before the rush of service, it’s also a ritual that fosters connection. This book from Ottawa’s Aiãna Kitchen offers clever, restaurant-ready tips and more than 80 recipes that balance bold flavours and comforting classics for dishes you’ll be happy to serve a crowd.

A Very Festive Giveaway

ENTER TO WIN A DAZZLING VISIT TO THE BUTCHART GARDENS.

A visit to The Butchart Gardens is one of Victoria’s most beloved holiday traditions. The luminous light displays, the nostalgic carollers, the whimsy of the Twelve Days of Christmas tableaux — it’s a magical experience for the whole family, and there’s no lovelier way to spend a winter evening.

Now one lucky winner will get to enjoy six admission tickets to The Magic of Christmas Lights at The Butchart Gardens. This festive package includes cookies and hot chocolate for everyone, and a special Christmas ornament for each pair of tickets, for a total value of $400.

To enter, visit yammagazine.com or scan the QR code. Contest ends December 1, 2025. Note that The Magic of Christmas Lights ends January 6, 2026. Contest Alert!

WAY, WAY, WAY OFF THE RACK

The stylish director of a new documentary about Pagliacci’s, Oz talks film, fashion and music and how it’s all shaping his journey.

When you see Oz sauntering down a Victoria street you might think, “That guy’s not from around here.” His sartorial elegance suggests New York, Milan, maybe L.A. Where are those local staples, top-tobottom fleece and Blundstones?

Michael “Ozzie” Osbourne laughs when I mention this.

“I get that all the time,” he says. “I like fashion as a way of expressing myself. It just comes naturally. Clothes always brought me attention and it’s part of who I am. It’s always helped me to find a way in. It has opened so many doors for me. I owe it so much.”

Jamaican-born and Toronto-raised by a clothes horse father and a tailor grandfather, Oz has familial threads weaving through his inherited pedigree like a bespoke label. The 50-something (never ask an actor their age) instructs aspiring designers and stylists at the Pacific Design Academy, passing along 15 years of self-taught experience that includes work in the costume department on those locally shot Hallmark films.

He’s more than a great wardrobe, though, having made his mark as DJ, vocalist, actor and, more recently, filmmaker.

Asked to describe himself, Oz has one word: artist.

“I like to jump in and out of different things. I see things when I play music or design clothes or teach. It’s about visuals for me,” he says. “I’m a visual person and I believe I want to try things my way. A different way. I’m worried about being in a box.”

FAR FROM THE PHARMACY

Oz ensured against ever being typecast a lifetime ago.

His longtime Toronto friend and roommate, Anthony Matthews, remembers the moment Oz decided to ditch a job in a compounding pharmacy and follow the path of an artist. Matthews says Oz was mired in a corporate world, pining for a life built on creativity.

“[Oz] visited family in Jamaica and came back and made an announcement to us over dinner and said, ‘I’m leaving my job and I’m going to become a musician. That’s my dream.’ A lot

of people say that, but he did it. Quit his job, learned music, started performing and just went with it,” Matthews says. “His success is just from his desire. And it makes me really proud to see him where he is now as a filmmaker and making music. He did exactly what he said he was going to do.”

Oz recalls it was a daring move and one his parents weren’t crazy about.

“[The pharmacy job] was killing my soul and I had to take a chance. Mistakes are where you learn. It’s OK to take that chance. You’ll find a way. I had no idea I’d actually become an artist.”

Those early steps have been documented in Oz’s film The Maze of Life, a semiautobiographical journey of a young man becoming an artist, meeting his love and embarking on a musical romance. There are two romances at play: with his first band Digg, then with Skyla J, longtime collaborator, life partner and mother to their young daughter. Together, they operate SJO Productions, a full-service music, film and live entertainment production company (sjoproductionpro.com).

The two met the first night Oz spent in Victoria after his move from Toronto. As a couple, they relocated back to Toronto to put together the band Selective Collective, then the jazz/funk/fusion duo Greenlaw.

“After a month of playing we decided to book a tour across Canada. We got halfway.” He starts laughing. It’s an infectious laugh, like his energy. Chill, but somehow charged.

Maybe that’s what attracted Skyla.

“One of the coolest things about Oz is his ability to create something from nothing,” she says. “He’s like The Wizard of … you guessed it, Oz. He’s magical when it comes to getting a team together and making big ideas a reality. He’s also one of the most positive people you will ever meet.”

AN ARTIST’S JOURNEY

Welcome to Pagliacci’s, Oz’s documentary chronicling the legendary Victoria eatery, which last year celebrated its 45th anniversary, premieres on Telus Optik TV on December 2, funded by Telus Story Hive. He admits to feeling a bit of pressure tackling something so iconic and revered.

“I like fashion as a way of expressing myself. It just comes naturally. Clothes always brought me attention and it’s part of who I am. It’s always helped me to find a way in. It has opened so many doors for me.

“I really wanted to do it justice. I felt very pressured,” he says. “There’s so many people who have been there. I can’t fuck it up. You know what I mean? But I’m very happy with the result and I learned a lot. And Howie [Pagliacci’s founder Howie Siegel] was really touched.”

Next up, Groove Castle, a children’s TV series developed with his longtime collaborator, costume designer Ken Shapkin, along with Skyla and their co-creator Sarah Michelle, is in the works as a vehicle to, among other things, teach music to kids.

And, at the same time, he’s working on transforming The Maze of Life into a series examining the similar journeys of other artists. A summer trip to Ireland and its Galway Film Fleadh (as part of Whistler Film Festival Producers Lab Delegation) has him on the path to arrange funding.

All this while working as a musician in an adopted hometown that Oz says features a great and greatly underrated scene that’s highlighted by Pagliacci’s and its no-cover live music. Then he gets a bit excited, suddenly listing off a who’s who of artists who started here. We back and forth about whose gigs we loved.

“I’ve been to Toronto, I’ve been to New York. I think this place has some of the most talented musical artists around,” Oz says. And he hopes that by telling stories, making films, he can put Victoria on the map “because Victoria has done a lot for me in my life and I want to show it.”

Then he flashes that big smile and laughs. “I just don’t want people to move here. I want to keep it a secret.”

Oz’s 5 Essential Things for Every Man’s Closet

1. TAILORED BLAZER

“A well-fitted blazer is like a film’s framing shot — it defines the tone instantly. In my movie The Maze of Life, styling was essential to show evolution. And a great blazer evolves with any man.”

2. CRISP WHITE SHIRT

“It’s classic, versatile and foundational, just like good storytelling. I teach this in my styling workshops: Build your wardrobe like you build a character.”

3. STATEMENT FOOTWEAR

“Shoes say who you are before you speak. In my work, styling actors for film and real life, the right footwear completes the transformation.”

4. DARK DENIM

“Denim is the universal fabric. It’s timeless, raw and ready to be shaped like a great performance. This is one of the staples I break down in my styling classes.”

5. SIGNATURE PIECE

“Whether it’s a silk scarf, a vintage jacket or a custom chain, your signature piece should tell your story without words. Mine usually ties back to the music and mood in my film projects.”

Sweeten the Holidays

Shop Local. Taste Local. Support Local.

This holiday season, take a scenic drive just minutes from Butchart Gardens and discover a hidden gem that captures the magic of local living: Country Bee Honey Farm.

Nestled in the heart of the Saanich Peninsula, Country Bee is more than just a honey farm – it’s a warm, welcoming destination where community, craftsmanship, and nature come together. Founded by a local family with a passion for bees and sustainable farming, Country Bee has grown into a place where visitors of all ages can explore the natural world, enjoy local food and drink, shop thoughtfully crafted goods, and experience the charm of farm life year-round.

Visitors can explore much more than just honey. Step into the cozy café for a fresh-brewed coffee or a fresh, local bite. Wander through the gift shop, where shelves are filled with handpicked treasures from Vancouver Island artisans –from beeswax candles and gourmet pantry items to locally made skincare and home décor. And don’t miss the one-of-a-kind Honey Tasting Bar, where you can sample a curated selection of raw and specialtyinfused honeys, each with its own unique flavour profile and story.

Bring the spirit of the season home with a Vancouver Island–grown Christmas tree, available right at the farm. Beautiful, fresh, and sustainably sourced, these Douglas Firs are the perfect way to support local growers while making your holidays merry and bright. Prices range from $75-$150.

Whether you’re searching for meaningful gifts, festive flavours, or a cozy holiday outing with friends and family, there’s so much to see, do, and taste at Country Bee.

Shopping local has never been more important. Visit Country Bee Honey Farm this holiday season and experience how sweet supporting local can truly be.

10am - 5pm

Leading with Local Spirit

The holiday season is a time for giving, gathering, and gratitude. Think Local First believes it’s also the perfect time to give back to the local businesses that help our community thrive.

Beverly Carter, owner of Carter Notary, has been a proud member of Think Local First for more than 10 years. Now, she’s stepping into her new role as President, bringing her passion for community and her motto ‘Momentum’ to the forefront.

For Beverly, supporting local isn’t just talk. It’s how she lives and does business. She purchases products, services, and experiences from local businesses to gift to Carter Notary’s clients. She also uses her platform, with thousands of readers, to spotlight local businesses and amplify their stories.

Beverly says, “The timing is right to build real momentum behind Think Local First’s long-time message of not only shopping locally but supporting local businesses and organizations more broadly. We can all do a small part to strengthen our economy.”

What is Think Local First?

Think Local First is a network that champions local, independent businesses and organizations and reminds consumers of the powerful impact they make when they choose local. From keeping money circulating in our economy to sustaining the vibrant shops, services, and experiences that define Greater Victoria, the message is clear: when you support local, we all thrive.

With over 160 members across the region, Think Local First is a movement that connects businesses and organizations with each other and with you—the community that makes it possible.

Think Local Week is November 17-22

This week is an intentional effort to remind you that during the holiday season, it’s important to think of our community and the vibrant organizations that define us as you shop, gather, volunteer, and celebrate. Small actions, done consistently, create a big impact.

This year’s events include:

Giveaways through Think Local First’s social media channels

Breakfast for members to connect and learn more

Media workshop for local businesses to help strengthen their visibility

5 Free Ways to Support Local Right Now (For Free!)

Five easy, free ways you can help build momentum in our community:

Attend a free local event. Seasonal markets, pop-ups, and community gatherings create energy and excitement. And don’t forget to bring a friend.

Share on social. Share a post or tag a business or organization you love. Your voice carries more weight than you realize.

Spread the word about TLF. The more people who share TLF’s vision, the stronger our community becomes.

Leave a glowing review. Take two minutes to leave a 5-star Google review for a business you love. Your words boost visibility and help build trust with future customers.

A 10% shift toward spending local creates 14,150 jobs and adds $4.5 billion to BC’s economy. 1 2 3 4 5

Volunteer. Give your time to a local organization or non-profit you believe in.

Did you know?

A small amount of local support makes a big impact.

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This holiday season, give them the perfect combination of clarity and couture with a gift certificate toward a fresh pair of specs or sunwear.

This holiday season, them the perfect combination of clarity and couture with a gift certificate toward a fresh pair of specs or sunwear.

Finally impress your mother-in-law this holiday season ...

Thoughtfully personal. Wonderfully easy. Whether they’re naughty, nice, or just s uinting at the menu, we’ve got them covered

Thoughtfully personal. Wonderfully easy. Whether they’re naughty, nice, or just squinting at the menu, we’ve got them covered!

HOW TO

BE A GREAT HOST

Follow these rules to ensure that your guests have a good time — and more importantly, so do you.

We’ve all been to those dinner parties where things have gone ever so slightly off the rails, where the potatoes are underdone and the steak is tough, where the wine runs out or the cook is overserved, where the guests are seated forlornly at the table while the hosts hiss furiously at each other in the kitchen, where things break, or spill, or spoil, and the food isn’t ready until late in the evening and everyone is ever-so-slightly schnockered.

Chances are, you may even have hosted some of these yourself. We sure have. Hosting is hard, which may be one reason why the dinner party is, as has been widely reported, a declining art. All across North America, we’ve fallen out of the habit of having people over, preferring to meet in restaurants or across a screen or not at all.

But it doesn’t have to be that way. Gathering your friends and family around your table is an act of grace, and feeding them can be joyful, and generous, and, yes, fun. So we’ve done the research, talked to the best hosts we know and dug into our own experiences to provide you with everything you need to know about hosting your own event — and having as much fun as your guests do.

With the holiday season upon us, this is the best time of year to open your doors to friends and family. Here are the rules you need to know to be a good host.

THE PREP

Plan ahead.

It may sound like a good idea to be all spontaneous and carefree, but the reality is that if you don’t plan properly you’ll inevitably forget something — or worse, someone — and you won’t have time to take care of the little details that make people feel cared for. Plus last-minute things inevitably cost more.

The end result? Hurt feelings, lots of stress and a bigger bill at the end of it all. So give yourself more time than you think you need, especially at busy times of the year like the holidays and even moreso if you need to book a venue, a caterer or live entertainment.

Create a timeline.

Actually, make that two timelines: one leading up to the event and an hourly one for the day of the event. List all the tasks that need to be done. Decide which of them need to be shared or outsourced, then be sure to assign them. Tick items off as they’re completed. And on event day, include time to take a break, have something to eat, get changed and recharge your batteries before your guests arrive.

Get the invitations out early.

Everyone is busy and schedules fill up quickly, so if you want people to show up, give them plenty of notice. As soon as you’ve confirmed the date of your event, send out a “save the date” note, followed by an official invitation about a month before and reminders the week and day before.

The invitation should include: time and location of the event, any theme or dress code, and whether it will be outside, games will be played, guests need to bring a dish or anything else they should expect. Also make sure to ask about any allergies, aversions or other issues.

THE FOOD

Plan a menu that works for you and your guests.

There are many schools of thought about what makes a good party menu. Some people will tell you not to get too fancy because it’s intimidating to guests. Others suggest going all out. We figure it all depends on the kind of event it is, who’s attending, how much time you have to prepare everything and your own skill level as a cook. Here are some general guidelines to follow.

• Decide on the tone of the event (casual or formal) and choose a theme (Spanish tapas, say, or English roast) to build your menu around.

• Determine whether your event will be a buffet, passed canapés, a plated sit-down dinner or a meal with guests seated at the table and dishes served family style. If people are not seated to eat, choose foods that can be eaten with just a fork.

• Make sure you have enough food. If you’re serving cocktail-hour canapés, plan on four to six bites per person for a one-to-two-hour event, eight to 10 if it goes longer.

• If you’re serving dinner, plan to offer snacks beforehand, then a main course, one or two sides and dessert. If you like, you can also add a lighter first course as well.

• Accommodate any dietary restrictions.

• Choose components that you can make ahead of time — and preferably have made before — so you’re not experimenting under pressure.

• Vary food colours, textures and flavours, balancing bold flavours with mild ones.

• Try not to duplicate the same menu with the same people.

• Consider having a Plan B in case something falls through, such as a backup lasagna in case the main is a disaster or a box of chocolates if the cake collapses.

• And don’t be afraid to hire a caterer or outsource part or all of the meal.

Where holiday Magic Meets Local Charm

Adrienne’s Restaurant & Tea Garden

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Cordova Hair & Barbershop

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House of Hathor

Lily Pad Lingerie

Liquor Plus

Market Collective

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Red Barn Market

THE DETAILS

Stock your bar well.

Seaberry Garden & Flower

The Gallery at Mattick’s Farm

Waterlily Shoes

You should not feel obligated to provide a full bar, but should make sure to have enough drinks, glassware and ice to keep the party flowing. (You can find drinks calculators

Offering a pre-batched welcome cocktail is a good way to get the party started, but have sparkling wine and fizzy water available as an

With the meal, offer a choice of red or white wine. If you’re uncertain what to serve, many liquor stores have experts on staff who can suggest pairings with

And always have nonalcoholic options available, such as zero-proof beers or canned cocktails in addition

Provide proper tableware.

Paper plates, plastic cups and disposable flatware may seem convenient, but they are awkward to use and create an unnecessary amount of garbage later. Don’t think you need to rush out and buy tableware for 30 people, though. Renting it is easy, way less expensive than you might think and, best of all, you don’t have to wash it at the end of the night.

Welcome offers of help.

Even if you hate sharing your kitchen, it’s always nice to have someone else pass the appetizers, fill up wine glasses or clear the table. And for some guests, helping is a way to overcome feeling shy or awkward. Besides, sharing a job makes it more fun. So if someone offers to pitch in, just say yes and find a way to make it work for both of you.

Don’t leave cleanup for the next day.

Future you will be grateful if you put the leftovers away, do a load of dishes and stack the rest, clean up the garbage and do a basic tidy so you’re not faced with a disaster zone in the morning. Just don’t get too keen about cleanup while your guests are still enjoying themselves or they’ll feel like you’re rushing them out the door.

Be present.

This is the most important rule of all. Your guests are there to see you, not your famous scratchmade cassoulet or beef Wellington. Get out of the kitchen or from behind the bar, and try to avoid the overwhelm. Spend time with your guests, not the gravy. And if things go wrong, don’t sweat it. You can always order pizza and open another bottle of wine.

After all, your event won’t be fun unless you are, too.

by Nature

So You Wanna Host a Potluck

Potlucks are a great way to entertain because they allow you to share both the cost and the workload of preparing a meal for a crowd — and besides, they’re loads of fun. But there are a few important things to keep in mind to avoid the dreaded #PotluckFail.

AS THE HOST

1. Assign categories of food.

To avoid having, say, a dozen salads or nothing but bread rolls, when your invite list is complete, send around a sign-up sheet so guests can choose the category of dish they want to make (mains, appies, salads, desserts). Also:

• Let guests know if there’s a theme to the party.

• Give them plenty of time to plan and prepare.

• Ask about food allergies or aversions and communicate those clearly to other guests.

2. Stock the bar.

Make sure you have enough wine, beer and non-alcoholic drinks on hand.

Consider a big-batch cocktail or a build-your-own highball station for a fun and easy twist.

3. Provide plates.

Even if your guests bring their own serving dishes, it’s your job to provide the plates they’re going to eat from, as well as cutlery and napkins.

4. Set the mood.

Tidy, clean, decorate and create a playlist to keep the mood light and the energy high.

5. Be food safe.

Keep anything that spoils easily chilled until right before serving, and toss anything that’s been sitting out for more than two hours, especially dairy, meat or seafood.

AS THE GUEST

1. Plan a low-maintenance dish.

If possible, bring a dish that can be served at room temperature so you can avoid having to fight for oven space. If you do need extra fridge or oven time, let your host know ahead of time.

2. Bring food that travels easily.

Casseroles and slow-cooker recipes are less likely to spill en route than platters of food.

3. Make it ready to serve.

Don’t expect to use your host’s serving dishes. Instead, pack food in containers that can go straight from oven to buffet table, such as disposable foil trays or ceramic baking dishes, and provide your own serving utensils. Just remember to bring them home with you later.

4. Label your food.

Let guests know what you’re serving them, especially if there are any dietary concerns.

5. Bring a host gift.

Yes, you should still bring something for the host, such as a bottle of wine, potted plant or jar of fancy preserves. Find ideas on page 76.

So You Wanna Host an Open House

If you’re not in the mood for a formal sit-down but still want to host friends and family, consider a casual open-house party. This allows your guests to come and go at their leisure, making it ideal for the busy holiday season when there are so many demands on everyone’s time — including yours. Here’s how to make it a success.

• Plan your open-house party for early in the holiday season, before things get too busy — or during the slow days between Christmas and New Year’s.

• Send invites via email, explaining what the event is on the invite, especially if your crowd is unfamiliar with open-house-style parties.

• Create a festive ambience with décor, music, sparkly lights and scented candles.

• Plan a menu of light bites that people can graze on while walking around and chatting. Ideally, they should be prepped ahead of time and served chilled or at room temperature. Cheese and charcuterie boards are ideal, as well as chips, crudités, dips and platters of cookies. Just make sure anything that can spoil is kept chilled as much as possible and tossed after two hours.

The Summer Series

• Batch drinks are handy — think hot mulled wine or cider, bowls of punch, drink dispensers and carafes of pre-batched cocktails. Fill party tubs with beer and wine. Make sure you have plenty of non-alcoholic drinks on hand.

• Provide plates, napkins, glassware, servingware and, if necessary, flatware, but let guests help themselves.

• Control the flow of the crowd by placing your food and drink stations strategically far apart. If possible, avoid bottlenecks by putting them in the centre of the room. Keep the littles entertained with an activity area supplied with colouring books and crayons. And distribute bowls of chips, nuts, chocolates and cookies throughout your home so there is always something snackable within guests’ reach.

KASIA WALA/STOCKFOOD

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200 Cook Street | coldcomfort.ca

GIFT GUIDE

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Celebrate the season with our one-of-a-kind artisan charcuterie collection, any size for any occasion. Chef crafted, locally sourced, beautifully made and hand delivered for a truly memorable treat.

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778-433-3166

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NATURE

IS A GIFT.

But not everyone can open it.

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Offer the rare gift of oceanfront serenity. The Oak Bay Beach Hotel gift cards inspire lasting wellbeing  — restorative spa rituals, soothing mineral pools, coastal dining and boutique stays.

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The perfect holiday gift: health, comfort and relaxation with mobile massage. Gift cards available.

COMPASS MOBILE THERAPEUTICS

778-744-8401 | compassmobiletherapeutics.ca

The Butchart Gardens 12-Month Pass

The perfect holiday gift for the whole family! Looking for a gift to be enjoyed year round? Give a 5-season experience from The Butchart Gardens with an Adult, Youth or Child 12-Month Pass. Adult Pass $88.50

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Shop Sage Hayward Vineyards online for holiday bottles — or gift our Wine Club membership, offering year-round celebration from our island to your table.

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Step into the magic of meaningful giving Nestled in charming Fernwood Village, our children and family store offers a curated collection of heartfelt, sustainable gifts and festive finds — all thoughtfully sourced from inspiring makers and brands.

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778-265-0934 urban-grocer.ca

Gifts that truly give back

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THE STAR of theTABLE

MINIMALIST, MAXIMALIST OR SIMPLY MAKING DO WITH WHATEVER’S ON HAND, THE BEST CENTREPIECES GIVE GUESTS SOMETHING TO FEAST THEIR EYES ON.

A centrepiece that combines seasonal red flowers with evergreens, ribbons and candles, like this one from Foxgloves Flowers, instantly makes any table feel festive.

Friends and family are gathered around the table for the big holiday feast, and you’ve got it arranged just so, with perfect place settings and crisp napkins. There’s just one thing missing: a stylish and elegant centrepiece to pull it all together.

“A table centrepiece is the perfect way to elevate your table setting and add a little whimsy to your layout,” says Andrea Walker, manager of Poppies Floral Art. “Everyone loves flowers, and a gorgeous centrepiece makes it look festive both when the table is set and when it’s not. And most of the year, people don’t have a floral centrepiece, so having one during the holidays makes it that much more special.”

Adds Colleen O’Farrell, owner of Foxgloves Flowers: “Centrepieces are that grounding piece in the middle of the table that makes everything feel festive.”

Anything can be a centrepiece, from a few rosemary sprigs in a Mason jar to a massive urn overflowing with carefully arranged hothouse flowers. The right centrepiece depends on the type of event you’re hosting, the space it’s in and the décor that surrounds it. Here’s what else you need to know.

Festive Flowers

Although it may dominate your table, a centrepiece does not stand alone. “It’s a focal point and can be something you work off of for other elements, whether that’s food or other flowers or candles,” says Marika Whitehead, owner of Rock, Paper, Square, an event planning and design company.

A centrepiece doesn’t need to match your décor, exactly, but it should at least complement it, especially the rest of your table setting. If your vibe is rustic-cozy nostalgia, for instance, a stark, single stem in a minimalistic vase is probably not the look you’re going for.

In general, for the holidays, tradition plays well. Simple arrangements of evergreen foliage are not only beautiful, they fill your home with gorgeous fragrance and bring some of the great outdoors in. Besides, Walker says, “The evergreens are so long-lasting.”

When it comes to flowers, candy-cane colours of red and white with green foliage are always festive at this time of year, whether on their own or together. It’s a colour combination that dates back to pagan times, when red holly berries were often the only colour in a snowy landscape and the branches were used in solstice celebrations to celebrate rebirth and to ward off evil.

Red is one of the season’s top-trending hues, and multiple red flowers make a beautiful centrepiece.

“For our most popular red-themed designs we tend to use a lot of red berries — Hypericum berries, Ilex berries and holly,” Walker says. “We also use both full-size and smaller spray carnations, and mini and full-size gerbera because they are a nice bright red and last so well. Red roses, red ranunculus, red anthurium and red spray orchids make everything look decadent, so we tend to always add a few of these types of flowers to make things look more elegant.”

create a pleasing whole.

Purple orchids add a luxurious and exotic note to this long, low arrangement from

Order any florals as early as you can. “It’s a busy time of year, and shops might need to stop taking orders at the last minute,” says Andrea Walker, manager of Poppies Floral Art. “It's good to order well in advance, especially if you are looking for a more customized arrangement.”

Above: Almost anything can work in a centrepiece, but the key is layering colours and textures to
Left:
Poppies Floral Art.
SERENA BURROUGHS/STOCKSY
PRO TIP

Meanwhile, all-white arrangements are always classic, and not just for weddings and funerals. For white flowers, Walker loves using dendrobium, cymbidium and phalaenopsis orchid blooms in addition to roses, carnations and gerbera.

One lovely variation on the all-white theme is to combine black baubles with white roses along with fragrant greenery such as balsam, pine, cedar, fir or juniper, says O’Farrell. “There are countless wonderful conifer varieties,” she says. “You can add in candles or baubles that pull in those tones and really give a festive flair. I lean heavily on roses at Christmastime; they’re so classic and elegant. Carnations come in so many cool colours now.”

Opting for a neutral palette is another way to go, especially in a year marked by the dominance of the soft brown hue Mocha Mousse. Think terracottas, coppers and rose golds, taking into account plant varieties that are available during the holiday season.

One beautiful and timely look combines dried elements such as lunaria and lotus pods with pine cones, neutral roses, beige ranunculi and broadleaf magnolia leaves. “They’re so beautiful and glossy on one side and look like brown velvet on the other,” says O’Farrell, who likes to combine them with red roses. “It’s crisp and clean and super elegant.”

What’s In, What’s Out

Nostalgia and classic motifs tend to dominate during the holidays, but there are always trends that make your décor very much of the times. Remember those wreath rings with pillar candles of the early aughts or the floating candles of the 2010s?

Create a romantic tablescape with soft, almost neutral colours and nostalgic features, as in this design by Rock, Paper, Square with flowers from Folklore Floral. The footed vessel adds a lovely airiness.

STYLE TIPS: Bring Nature In

At the Victoria-based design studio Modpots, this holiday the tabletop story is all about layered details that bring the outside in and transform the everyday into the extraordinary.

Napkins are tied with simple ribbon and sprigs of natural seed pods. Wine glasses and tumblers sparkle in the candlelight. Greenery spills naturally along the centre of the table while tapered burgundy candles cast a shimmering golden glow. Most of all, natural materials are the true stars here. Cedar, pussy willow and magnolia bring layers of green texture, while pine cones and pomegranates lend richness and a sense of abundance.

“This table is meant to feel lived-in yet elevated,” says Modpots founder Jen Lasko. “We wanted to bring the outdoors in, using greenery, cones and simple natural textures while pairing them with refined touches like glassware and deep jewel tones. It’s holiday décor that feels both personal and polished.”

Here’s how to get the look.

Layer greenery freely. Don’t worry about perfect symmetry; let cedar or fir boughs spill naturally along your mantle or tabletop. The relaxed look feels both elegant and approachable. Mix textures. Combine glossy magnolia leaves with the softness of cedar, the sculptural shape of pussy willow or the rough texture of pine cones. Contrast is what makes the arrangement interesting.

Elevate the everyday. A simple napkin tied with ribbon and a sprig of greenery instantly becomes festive. Look for small details that add personality to each place setting.

Use candlelight generously. Taper candles or clusters of votives add warmth and intimacy, an essential element for any holiday gathering. Incorporate edible elements. Pomegranates, citrus and/or nuts not only add colour, but can also double as snacks.

MOLLY JANE

Who says a centrepiece needs to be flowers? It could also be fruit, nuts, candles, branches and baubles, arranged in a bowl with a shallow profile that doesn’t interrupt the guests’ sightlines, making conversation easier.

Right now, bows are having a moment — satin or velvet, tied around wine glasses, vases, bouquets or napkins. “The nice thing about bows is they can be reused next year,” Whitehead says.

Nature-inspired themes are also huge, including pine cones, acorns, mushrooms, frosted leaves, woodland creatures and potted plants. So is food, whether it’s adding pomegranates and star anise pods to your table décor or decorating with painted glass ornaments depicting charcuterie plates, avocado toast, sardine tins or flutes of Champagne.

There are also trends that look dated, and at the top of that list is anything environmentally unfriendly, like dyed flowers.

“I personally don’t like anything that looks artificial, and any of those dyed products’ dye can leech off and ruin any tablecloth,” says O’Farrell. “If you’re pulling out great-grandma’s tablecloth for Christmas dinner, you don’t want to ruin it by using something that’s not natural. We have so many beautiful natural things available that we don’t have to use artificial items.”

Also avoid tinsel and especially glitter. “We tend to stay away from it since it’s just an annoying microplastic that gets everywhere,” Walker says. “We recommend going as natural as possible.”

Perhaps the biggest trend is making your décor — including your centrepiece — uniquely your own by incorporating personal mementoes and family treasures.

“If you have all the components saved from last year’s arrangement, bring it in! We can reuse things like baubles and pine cones and your own container,” Walker says. “Bringing in crystal candy bowls or silver serving dishes that you already own can make your arrangements more personalized and interesting.”

She adds: “Incorporating personal elements makes everything feel more elevated and special. And it’s fun. You could make a Christmas card for each guest with a little note inside and put it in a beautiful envelope in a colour that plays off the table décor. You can add personal touches that don’t necessarily break the bank.”

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Discover LURE Winter

STYLES OF CENTREPIECE

> A vase or similar vessel holding a classic floral arrangement. One popular option is to use a single colour of flower, such as white or pink; another is to use a shallow footed bowl with trailing fronds; a third is to have two or more smaller arrangements along a longer table. Formal events, classic dinner

> A collection of several ceramic crocks, plant pots, Mason jars, pretty glassware, bud vases and the like, loosely arranged in the centre of the table and holding just a few blossoms, leaves or a

Casual gatherings with creative

> Garlands or branches ornaments, candles or fairy lights woven through them. A lovely way to use natural

Long tables, easygoing rustic vibes.

Bowls > Big, beautiful bowls filled with fruit, candies, pine cones or ornaments; these are easy to whisk away when dinner is served and replaced with platters of food so everyone can help themselves.

Best for: Family-style dinners.

Minimalist > Simple, even stark, these arrangements make a statement. Consider a single dramatic blossom or branch in a sleek vase, or use a modern sculpture or a grouping of bold candles.

Best for: Smaller tables, stylish gatherings.

GEOMETRY OF A CENTREPIECE

The types of flowers and fillers you choose for your centrepiece are only part of the equation; it also has to fit the shape and size of the table it sits on.

“The size of the table is a huge factor,” says Walker. “You don’t want to feel compelled to remove the centrepiece because it’s too big once the table is set.”

And, she says, the shape should reflect the table’s shape — whether it’s oval, round, square or rectangular.

Complementary Shapes

“If you’ve got a round table, stick to a round or square container. You don’t want to stick a long and low arrangement on a round table,” says O’Farrell, who likes to use footed compote bowls that raise the centrepiece off the table and give it some airiness. “If it’s a long table seating 10 to 12, you can get away with long and low, a little bit narrower or you can do two smaller arrangements so there’s not one big one in the middle of the table.”

If your table is long, you could have three smaller centrepieces, or one that’s slightly bigger in the centre with two smaller ones on either side. To fill in the space, tuck some candles between them (just keep the flame away from anything that might catch fire, or use flameless candles) or arrange decorative elements like pine cones on the table.

“Always keep in mind what else will be on the table,” Walker says. “Sometimes two or three smaller matching arrangements take up less space if you plan on having candles or other décor items on the table. If you have a very long table, it may be better to opt for two to three smaller arrangements rather than one larger one. You want all your guests to enjoy the flowers as well as the food.”

Practical Heights

Also consider the height of the centrepiece — you may love longstemmed calla lilies, but they may not be ideal for the middle of a table when you’re dining.

“A good rule of thumb for a table centrepiece is to put your elbow on the table and take it to the wrist as the finished height so you’re not blocking the sight line across the table,” O’Farrell says.

“You want to make sure that the arrangement isn’t too tall, because you want to be able to see and speak with the people across from you,” says Walker. “This is also important if you will be passing plates. Your centrepiece should add to the beauty and festivity of your table without getting in the way.”

How Thoughtful

WHAT MAKES AN EXCELLENT GUEST SPACE? IT’S ALL IN THE DETAILS.

With the holidays just around the corner, chances are that you will be hosting overnight guests in your home at some point — or that you yourself will be staying with friends or family. Being a guest in someone else’s space comes with its own set of challenges. Being physically uncomfortable shouldn’t be one of them.

That makes this a good time to consider your own guest space, and whether it needs an update before friends or family descend. Whether it’s a room in your main house or a separate carriage house on your property, the idyll can be found in the details.

BE WELCOMING: A Quick Update

If your guests are arriving in the next few days or weeks, you likely don’t have time for a major renovation, but you do have time to invest in some smart and thoughtful upgrades.

For Raubyn Rothschild of interior design firm Rothschild West, a key factor in dressing up a guest space is adding subtle but impactful moments of care and curation.

“It’s amazing if you can incorporate original art or local art into the space, especially if you’re hosting people from out of town,” she says. “And then also the simple luxuries, like investing in a high-quality mattress and linen sheets. And I always think having good-quality pillows for your guests is important.”

What you should definitely not do is fill the space with lots of personal photos and memorabilia, or use cast-offs, like your old used pillows, to furnish it. “When you stay at someone else’s place, sometimes it’s your only chance to decompress,” she says, so try to create a space where your guest can truly relax and maybe even feel a little pampered.

And while “a little bit of continuity is nice,” the guest room doesn’t need to look exactly like the rest of your home. “You can streamline the space so they can make it their own while they’re there.” That means places to stow their luggage, plug in their devices and put their jewelry at night — without worrying about forgetting them amid all your personal clutter.

“The simpler you can make it the better, but layer in cozy things like a throw or slippers,” she advises. “Those small gestures make a really big difference.”

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When creating a space for your guests, designer Raubyn Rothschild advises making it streamlined so they have room for their things, but adding thoughtful details like local art, comfortable slippers and quality bedding.
DASHA ARMSTRONG

BE THOROUGH: An In-Home Reno

Sometimes, though, you need more of a makeover than simply adding a new duvet or fresh flowers. Perhaps you have a relative planning a longer visit, or your guest space is really not functional. If you have time and budget, you may find yourself looking at a renovation that could include updating the flooring, increasing closet space, putting the lighting on dimmers, installing a Murphy bed, even adding an ensuite bathroom.

“One of my favourite things to do is give guests access to the outdoors if possible so they don’t have to go through the house. That’s a really nice luxury,” Rothschild says. A built-in mini-bar, with a refrigerator and small sink, is another welcoming touch, and Rothschild suggests building in the electrical and plumbing capability even if you don’t plan to use it right away.

Also worth the investment? Custom millwork, especially when it comes to closet space. “For closets, sometimes we take out the traditional closets and do it with millwork instead,” she says, noting that allows them to create a mix of open and closed spaces, shelves, drawers and countertops. “Then it feels more like a guest space, a hospitality space, rather than a bedroom.”

Right: If you’re planning a renovation, consider adding access to the outdoors like the door in this space by Raubyn Rothschild. That way, guests won’t have to walk through your space to reach theirs. Below: Custom millwork allows you to create space for storage and other uses — without it looking like a bedroom closet.
DASHA ARMSTRONG
Above: Having a small sink and/or refrigerator is a thoughtful luxury that preserves a guest’s privacy and makes them feel pampered. Rothschild, who designed this serene space, recommends planning for the electricals and plumbing even if you don’t plan to install the features right away.
PHOTO: LIA CROWE
JACOB MCNEIL/PLATINUM CREATIVE DASHA ARMSTRONG

BE BOUNTIFUL: A Guest House

Or you can join the growing number of Victorians who are adding garden suites to their properties for aging parents, growing kids or overnight guests, especially when they live in older, and often smaller, homes that can be difficult to renovate.

“There’s a significant amount more of them,” says Ken Lydiatt, project leader at MAC Reno Design-Build. “A lot of what we’re finding is people with multi-generational families trying to live in the house together.” He adds: “It’s such a great way of utilizing space in Victoria, where it’s really challenging.”

If you are considering building a guest suite, the process starts with a conversation with your municipality about zoning. You need to know, among other things, the maximum square footage you can build, how far you need to be from the property line and whether you are able to build in the first place. Then you will need to commission a feasibility study before doing anything else.

That said, changes in zoning rules and an increase in modular construction are making it easier than ever to build a little house perfect for guests in your backyard. But, Lydiatt cautions, while some of those pre-fab options may be faster, “It’s not always cheaper.”

MAC Reno has recently formed a partnership with Nexus Modular Solutions in Cobble Hill, and has been working with them to make the process easier and more cost effective. One advantage of this type of modular construction is that it’s less invasive than a fully custom build, with fewer trucks and heavy equipment rolling through. “You think about building a little house in someone’s backyard and then think about the impact that has on a neighbourhood,” he says.

The other is how fast it is. They just got the permits for their first joint project in Saanich, and Lydiatt says, “Scratch dirt and it will be ready for occupancy in six weeks. This should open up everything as long as the zoning is there and there is space for it. And personally, I think [guests would] prefer the extra space.”

Modular they may be, but these units are still fully customizable. Owners can decide on the number of bedrooms, whether or not the unit needs its own laundry, the size of the kitchen and how much storage is needed. And, because the square-footage of a guest house is so much smaller than the main home, it can offer some exciting opportunities for design experimentation.

“I think you can play a little bit more,” says Rothschild. “There’s going to be less lighting; there’s going to be less tile. So I think people really can play with some of that stuff.”

Whether it’s that exquisite loveseat that you’ve had your eye on for years or that colourful Moroccan ceramic backsplash that would be too busy in a bigger space, guest houses provide an element of fantasy and boldness, while still connecting back to the mothership.

“Ideally there’s some design language between the structures that considers the esthetic and character of the primary home on the property,” Rothschild explains. “It doesn’t have to mean a copy of what’s there, but we look at overall colours, shapes, materials or architectural details, and then see what makes sense within the confines of what we’re trying to build.”

But whether it’s a custom-built guest house or a quick main-home update, the key to any guest space is thoughtfulness — a bespoke mix of practicality and whimsy.

QUICK TIPS

Not every guest space needs a remodel. Here are some quick and easy ways to make your guests feel at home.

> Surprise them.

Make guests feel extra special with a welcome basket of thoughtful items like a local chocolate bar, beans from your favourite coffee shop and a miniature bottle of sunscreen.

> Print it.

Whether it’s Wi-Fi login information or directions for turning Netflix on, printedout instructions make sure that a guest feels taken care of.

> Share tips.

Curate a collection of local hot spots for your guests to check out while they’re in town. A little list goes a long way.

> Prioritize quality.

Buy the nice soap for the guest washroom. Spend the money on the good pillows. Treat your guest space like the extension of your home that it is, investing in highquality pieces that add subtle opulence.

> Have extras.

Put out fresh towels for your guests, of course — but also make sure the linen closet is stocked with plenty more. Because, you know: life happens.

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HUSSLE MEDIA

Not just a cute face

A CENTURY AFTER BEING HUNTED TO NEAR-EXTINCTION, SEA OTTERS HAVE RETURNED TO ISLAND WATERS. OUR RELATIONSHIP IS STILL COMPLICATED.

Isaw my first sea otters about a year ago. We were barely out of the Port McNeill harbour on a day-long fundraising trip for Marine Education & Research Society (MERS) when otters appeared about 100 metres off port. Floating on their backs, with just their whitish faces and leathery webbed hind feet appearing above the water, they looked like children’s stuffies brought to life and animated by the spirit of Wilford Brimley.

Most of us on Vancouver Island have seen otters, sunning themselves on the docks and scampering along the shores. Those, however, are river otters.

Sea otters are more elusive. Although they were once abundant in our waters, they disappeared nearly a century ago, hunted to nearextinction for the dense fur that allows them to live in the frigid West Coast waters.

Starting in the 1760s, Russian, Spanish, American and British fur traders slaughtered an estimated quarter-million sea otters from Alaska to Northern California for their sumptuous, and highly lucrative, pelts. By the late 1800s, they were all but extinct. The last known sea otter in Vancouver Island waters was recorded killed in 1929.

But now they’re back. And while their return is good news for our coastal ecosystems, it is not without its challenges, especially when it comes to our tendency to put human values on wild animals.

“Sea otters are so much more than cute, and there’s still so much that we don’t know,” says MERS cofounder Jackie Hildering. “Talk about a species where our values have vastly impacted them and continue to do so.”

A KEYSTONE SPECIES

Like the grey wolves of Yellowstone, sea otters are a keystone species, and removal of a keystone species from the food web shifts predator and prey populations, altering the ecosystem’s structure in a chain reaction known as a trophic cascade.

When sea otters disappeared from our coasts, it had a dramatic impact on the nearshore ecosystem, not only shifting the levels of flora and fauna, but going so far as to contribute to climate change.

Sea otters eat approximately 25 per cent of their weight daily, consuming a varied diet of abalone, crabs, clams, cockerels, fish and, importantly, sea urchins. Sea urchins in turn consume kelp, an important source of carbon storage and oxygen generation. With sea otters removed from the food chain, the urchin population exploded and decimated the kelp forests, resulting in urchin barrens — areas devoid of the fauna that provides habitat for lingcod, perch, greenlings, rockfish, salmon and other species. Loss of kelp contributes to shoreline erosion; without it, there is nothing to act as a breakwater, holding back storm surges that pummel the shore.

Sea otters also contribute to the health of the seagrass meadows that provide a nursery habitat for juvenile fish and soak up carbon dioxide.

When sea otters disappeared from our coasts, it had a dramatic impact on the nearshore ecosystem, not only shifting the levels of flora and fauna, but going so far as to contribute to climate change.

As otters dig for prey, they break up rhizomes and leave patches and pits for seeds to settle, resulting in genetic diversity and bolstering ecological resilience. They also consume large amounts of crabs; without otters to eat the crabs that eat the sea slugs and other small crustaceans that provide janitorial services by removing algae, the seagrass doesn’t get enough sunlight and fails to thrive.

The loss of sea otters caused devastating environmental impacts. So reintroduction would rebalance nature and bring harmony back to our shorelines, right?

It turns out, it’s a little more complicated than that.

RETURN TO THE COAST

It was nuclear testing in Alaska that returned sea otters to local waters. In an effort to mitigate testing impacts, a total of 89 sea otters from Alaska’s Amchitka Island and Prince William Sound were relocated to northern Vancouver Island in three releases between 1969 and 1972. This collaborative effort involved Canadian and U.S. federal, and B.C. provincial, agencies. Notably, no First Nations were consulted regarding reintroduction efforts.

Though they are slow to reproduce, sea otter numbers have grown exponentially in the halfcentury since reintroduction. The most recent

Sea otters float on the ocean surface in “rafts,” large interconnected gatherings like this group of males in Telegraph Cove.

Committee on the Status of Endangered Wildlife in Canada study, published in 2022, indicates about 8,110 sea otters (4,000 mature adults) in B.C. waters, about 15 per cent of the estimated historical numbers. Today sea otters are no longer designated as Endangered, but of Special Concern.

Hildering, who is not just the cofounder of MERS but also the society’s education and communications director, has lived in Port McNeill since 1999. Back then, Hildering says she’d be excited to see a single otter. “We had these incidental sea otters that would hang around for a while, primarily males, and that would be pretty darn exciting and pretty rare,” she recalls.

Flash forward to today, and large rafts of males are regularly seen in the waters around Port McNeill, with the closest raft of females and pups north of Port Hardy at Browning’s Pass. From a local, anecdotal perspective, Hildering says there is a lot more kelp around Port McNeill, Malcolm Island and Alert Bay. And it’s not just the iconic bull kelp, which is perennial and dies off in the winter, but overwintering kelps, which offer even more in fish habitat and carbon offset as they thrive year-round.

The environmental benefits of reintroduction are clear. With urchin populations in check, kelp forests are rebounding and fin fish stocks are regenerating, which is good not just for species that prey on fin fish, but for our fisheries, too. One study estimates a threefold increase in predicted lingcod catch. The economic benefit isn’t limited to fisheries — environmental tourism on the North Island now includes options to view sea otters both by motorized vessel and kayak tours.

Yet the return of sea otters has also caused losses.

OTTER VS HUMAN

With generations of humans, both Indigenous and settler, having acclimated to living along a coast bereft of otters, returning to coexistence is bound to be rocky. It goes beyond competing for resources to the very core of how we perceive them.

In their multigenerational absence, humans filled some of the invertebrate consumption space that otters historically occupied. This benefited both commercial fisheries and the recreational and Indigenous fishers harvesting for personal sustenance. Crab, geoducks, clams and urchins became economically viable resources and important food sources for Indigenous populations. While commercial crab harvesters can move farther offshore where they don’t compete with otters, recreational and Indigenous shellfish harvesters may be limited in their ability to adapt. And, with access to commercial fishing licences mostly in non-Indigenous hands, the benefit of otters to fisheries is not having a net-positive impact on coastal First Nations communities.

In addition, increased encounters have brought to our attention behaviours, specifically around sometimes violent mating practices in which males often bite and wound female otters, that challenge the popular notion of otters as one of the cuter marine mammal species.

Take the case of a Race Rocks Ecological Reserve-area otter dubbed Ollie who earlier this year made news after being repeatedly observed carrying around the corpses of river otters showing signs of sexual trauma. Articles referred to Ollie as the “Salish Sea Serial Killer” doing “nefarious things,” and called him a murderer.

Hildering acknowledges that the way we interpret copulation behaviours does a disservice to sea otters. “It’s often misinterpreted, it’s often judged, and where we land in a lot of our education is ‘this is not good, it’s not bad … it’s just wild behaviour,’ ” she says. “The profiling of cute is risky — it leaves the potential of vilification when we find out about some of the behaviours that are perceived as not cute.”

Indeed, it’s not just our perceptions that put our interactions and coexistence with sea otters at risk, it’s also our actions. What does returning to a “natural balance” look like in an era where oceans host industrial shipping, commercial fishing and mass transportation? Humans remain the biggest threat to fragile otter populations. While they’re currently not hunted for fur, they are at risk from oil spills, vessel strikes and fishing gear entanglement. Hildering suggests that it’s possible that we’ll see a call to harvest or cull sea otters, and that there could even be a market for their pelts again.

For this critical species to thrive it’s imperative to ensure we move forward with a respect for nature and our place in it. As Hildering says, “If ever there was a time for precaution and making sure we don’t make the same mistakes, now is it.”

YOU OTTER KNOW THE DIFFERENCE

Both sea and river otters are part of the Mustelidae family. At a quick glance, they look similar and, unlike other marine mammals, both rely on thick pelts for insulation and buoyancy, rather than layers of blubber. But they have some significant differences.

North American river otters (Lontra canadensis pacifica) are smaller and sleeker than sea otters — growing to just over a metre in length and 13.6 kilograms in weight, with long necks and long, tapered tails. At the surface they swim chest down, with their head peering out. River otters can move between fresh and salt water, living in coastal areas, inland marine waters, lakes, rivers and marshes, but they are often ashore and give birth on land.

(Side note: If you leave an egg pan on the side of the lake while rinsing camping dishes they will unabashedly steal it and lead you on a wild chase across slippery rocks while amused canoeists look on. Ask me how I know.)

Sea otters (Enhydra lutris), in contrast, live exclusively in the ocean. They are the largest of the Mustelide family, but the smallest marine mammal, topping out at over 1.5 metres long and 45 kilos, with a flattened tail that’s approximately one-third of their body length. Sea otters live primarily in the water and rarely come ashore — they birth, raise young and eat at sea, often gathering in groups of around 100 individuals, known as “rafts.” At the surface they swim on their

backs, using their bellies to carry young or as a food prep and dining station. Their fur is the thickest of any living mammal, and they use skin folds on their necks and chests to store the rocks they use to smash the bivalves that comprise the majority of their diets. They are, in fact, the only mammals outside of primates known to use tools.

Sunday, December 7, 2025

The otters we’re familiar with around Victoria are the smaller river otters.
Sea otters are larger than river otters and live exclusively in the ocean.

Lounge Luxuriously

The holidays are for slowing down and unwinding. This season, kick back in the finest loungewear — cozy sweaters, soft pants and satin-y sets — for the ultimate in stylish comfort.

Fashion Stylist: Janine Metcalfe
Photographer: Jeffrey Bosdet

Back in Black Black chunky lambswool

by &Daughter,

leggings

by

Opposite page: Wine Down Burgundy

sweater
Sync
and cashmere toque
Baserange, all available at Open House. Black leather shoes by El Naturalista, available at Heart and Sole Shoes.
silk camisole and pants by Yest, loose-knit mohair-blend sweater by Part Two, all available at Moden Boutique.

Perfect Pattern

A sweet set in satin, Adi top and bottom by Gershon Bram, available at Moden Boutique.
Black leather shoes by El Naturalista, available at Heart and Sole Shoes.
Navy Nights
Navy satin sweatshirt and pants by Gabby Isabella, available at Adventure Clothing.

Coziest Cardy

Knit turtleneck and long crocheted open sweater by Ekru, linen pants by Linen Luv, all available at Butik Naturals.

Pearly Perfection

Grey sweater and knit skirt by Anneclaire, freshwater pearl necklace and earrings, all available at Bagheera Boutique. Black shoes by El Naturalista, available at Heart and Sole Shoes.
Model: Joy Cross/Lizbell Agency
Hair and makeup: Anya Ellis/Lizbell Agency
Cosmetics: Charlotte Tilbury
Hair products: Moroccan Oil
Special thanks to: Luxe Home Interiors
Art on page 63: Portrait of a Lady by Beverly Fuller

THE SHORE THING

My personal best, from laptop close in our downtown Vancouver office to gondola boarding at Grouse Mountain, was just under an hour. By public transit.

Mind you, Waterfront Station was a quick stroll away, I caught the SeaBus with seconds to spare and our TransLink bus driver navigated the midweek January traffic on Capilano Road with no delay, despite the rain. My family was waiting at the gondola with my gear, which also helped.

Still, that superpower of school-night skiing and family dinner at the ski lodge while watching bumper-to-bumper traffic

Fluffy powder. Thrilling descents. Easy access. Vancouver’s North Shore Mountains have long been a snow-loving locals’ superpower. But now, with ambitions as high as those rugged peaks, they’re set to become North America’s premier urban skiing destination.

crawl home hundreds of metres below is a long-held secret by Vancouverites in the know. Especially those who live at the foot of the city’s North Shore Mountains.

Located on the traditional, ancestral and unceded territories of the Squamish Nation, Tsleil-Waututh Nation and Musqueam Nation, Vancouver’s North Shore has long held mythical status among the powder intelligentsia: reliably snowy, cold (but not too cold), downhill terrain accessible without a car from one of the planet’s most lauded urban centres. Added mental health bonus for Vancouver skiers and snowboarders: When it’s cold and rainy in the city, it’s white and fluffy

at the chair lifts. This combination of urban convenience and alpine adventure inspired the Globe and Mail to name the City of North Vancouver as Canada's most livable in 2024.

Expect a lot more attention in the months ahead as the three North Shore resorts unveil their most ambitious transformation in decades, positioning themselves as North America's premier urban skiing destination. With massive investments across all three local mountains and groundbreaking new amenities kicking off last season, there has never been a better time to discover these hidden gems on your next visit to the mainland.

Grouse Mountain

ELEVATED ALL-SEASON FUN

The crown jewel of North Vancouver’s vertical buzz is Grouse Mountain’s spectacular new Blue Grouse Gondola, which officially opened on December 12, 2024. This $35-million engineering marvel is the mountain's largest capital investment in decades, featuring 15 towers, 27 eight-person gondola cabins and a Whistler-like capacity of 1,000 people per hour. The 5½-minute journey serves up coastal rainforest views that go from misty verdant to North Pole white in minutes while dramatically reducing the wait times that previously plagued the mountain during peak periods. But if you haven’t been to Grouse in a few years, fear not. The iconic Red Super Skyride is also running when things get busy and effectively doubles the mountain’s uphill capacity. Good thing, too, given the new $500,000 investment in snowmaking that increases current output by 40 per cent. This, combined with Grouse’s annual average of 970 centimetres of snowfall, will keep the gondolas, new and old, full.

The investment isn’t just confined to getting up the mountain. The highly anticipated Grouse Gravity Coaster launched a few months ago as a thrilling, 1,434-metre-long ride winding through old-growth forests at speeds of up to 45 kilometres per hour. Remember to look up during the 919-metre vertical descent for some of the most memorable views of Vancouver (and Burnaby and Surrey) you’ll ever see.

And the evolution isn’t limited to winter activities — Grouse Bike Park officially opened in June 2025, becoming the North Shore's only lift-accessed mountain bike park.

Designed by world-renowned Gravity Logic (the team behind Whistler Bike Park), the new facility opened with 15 trails for all skill levels, from beginner green and blue flow trails to technical black diamond routes and a double black single track. Unlike the hundreds of kilometres that criss-cross the surrounding North Shore backcountry, Grouse provides all the thrills without having to “earn your turns” with a gruelling uphill run.

Grouse Mountain is the jewel of the three North Shore ski hills, with spectacular views of the city (and beyond), and new amenities including the speedy Blue Grouse Gondola.

Cypress Mountain

SKI IT, LIVE IT

Cypress Mountain has always held an elevated spot among the three North Shore ski resorts. It’s a little farther, a little higher, a little bigger and therefore a little pricier than its siblings. (Given its ritzy West Vancouver location, is it any wonder?) Still, with its incredible views, big-mountain backcountry and consistent snow, Cypress is always, always worth the trip.

Soon, those who love it will have the option of never having to leave. The most ambitious development project in West Vancouver's history, breaking ground earlier this year, will create a complete sustainable alpine community featuring 3,700 housing units over the next 25 years. This $500-million project represents a fundamental shift in mountain-resort development, creating the infrastructure for true slopeside living while preserving 1,500 acres of natural parkland through the Eagleridge conservation agreement. The development will include a new shopping and business district, community centre, fire hall, sports fields, daycare facilities and direct transit connections, rivalling Grouse for car-free access from downtown Vancouver.

Cypress has been spending on the skiing experience as well, with the new Sky Quad chairlift opening a couple of years ago. The state-of-the-art Doppelmayr fixed-grip quad has capacity for 1,800 guests per hour and ensures that all of Cypress Mountain's terrain is now accessible by quad chairlift.

Mount Seymour

Cypress Mountain, known for its excellent cross-country and backcountry skiing, is about to get a major glow-up with a brand-new, sustainable alpine community.

THE BEAST OF THE EAST (FOR THE LEAST)

While its neighbours to the west pursue large-scale development, Mount Seymour maintains its position as Vancouver's most affordable and family-friendly ski destination. The mountain continues to offer the best value among the North Shore trio, with adult lift tickets ranging from $39 to $94 depending on timing. The 3Ski Pass deeply discounts three visits, and special initiatives like Rideshare Thursdays, where up to seven people can access the mountain for $179 if they arrive in a single vehicle, make skiing more approachable for families and newcomers‚ and better for the planet.

But it’s not like Seymour has been holding back. Its park terrain has been expanded and improved and now comprises four distinct parks that cater to all skill levels (although it tends to draw local daredevils). Of course, given the target market, all parks are fully lit for night riding and feature over 30 elements ranging from small to extra large.

The mountain's unique position within Mount Seymour Provincial Park provides access to extensive backcountry recreation, with BC Parks managing more than 14 hiking trails and winter backcountry routes. This dual nature — developed ski resort and pristine wilderness — offers visitors unparalleled variety within a single destination. More impressive still is that, despite lacking artificial snowmaking capabilities, Seymour often receives the most natural snowfall among the three local mountains due to its eastern face and proximity to inlets and Vancouver Harbour. Last season dumped almost 800 all-natural centimetres.

AHEAD OF THE CURVE

Where to Stay When You Play (And How to Get There)

The easy transit accessibility to the North Shore Mountains means you can spend less time in traffic and more time on the slopes — and it’s a feature virtually unheard of among major ski destinations anywhere in the world.

All three mountains are directly accessible using TransLink's integrated transit system, centred around the iconic SeaBus passenger ferry service. The SeaBus operates every 15 minutes during peak hours, providing an unforgettable 12-minute journey across Burrard Inlet from downtown Vancouver's Waterfront Station (just steps from the Harbour Air and HeliJet terminals) to North Vancouver's Lonsdale Quay.

From Lonsdale Quay, dedicated bus routes serve each mountain: The 236 bus connects directly to Grouse Mountain, while the Cypress Mountain Express provides service to Cypress. Mount Seymour operates a shuttle service from both the Rupert SkyTrain station and Parkgate Community Centre.

If you want to stay on the North Shore, you can’t do better than the Seaside Hotel, a cozy boutique property in the heart of The Shipyards District, mere steps from the SeaBus and buses to the mountains. It’s also a quick walk to Lower Lonsdale’s booming craft breweries and growing restaurant scene, if you prefer your après-ski a little more urban.

Mount Seymour Provincial Park may be less familiar to many, but offers legendary snowshoeing, access to the backcountry and the most natural snowfall of

Food + Drink

74

The Dish A spicy sauce, star chefs and other hot things happening around Victoria.

78 Spectacular Celebration

Yes, you can make France’s most impressive celebration cake. Here’s how.

86 The Perfect Party Pâté Be ready to welcome guests any time with easy, impressive rillettes.

92 Better with Bitters Everything you need to know about these powerhouse botanical drops.

RECIPES

77 Cloud Wine

81 Crème Pâtissière (Pastry Cream)

84 Rose Tea Croquembouche

87 Pork Rillettes

88 Mushroom Rillettes

88 Duck Rillettes

89 Duck Confit

90 Spiced Pecans

91 Crostini

91 Quick-Pickled Red Onions

93 Beachcomber Bitters

IN SEASON

Terrific Truffles

Want a reason to love winter? Truffles. These edible fungi are among the world’s greatest luxury foodstuffs, beloved for a powerfully seductive aroma that has been described as “musky, fiery, savoury, mysterious.” Among the more than 100 types of truffle, the two most culinarily prized are the White Alba (Tuber magnatum) and Black Périgord truffle (Tuber melanosporum), which should both be available right now, though the season for white truffles is ending and the one for Périgords just beginning. Most truffles we see here come from Europe, with some from China and Oregon, and a very limited quantity from the Island, from Below the Nut Farm near Nanaimo and The Truffle Farm in Parksville. Note, though, that a fresh Périgord will set you back upwards of $1,000 a pound; luckily, all you need is the finest shaving to transform any dish into the sublimest of fare.

Earthy, sensual, aromatic: Even a whisper-thin sliver of truffle can transform a dish into something luxuriously decadent.

Food + Drink THE DISH

A TASTE OF WHAT’S HAPPENING AROUND VICTORIA

HOT STUFF

With a Hall of Fame recognition and a successful product line, things are heating up for this Victoria chef.

When Matt Cusano left his job as executive chef at Boom + Batten in 2022, he took his Calabrian vinaigrette recipe with him and launched both a crisis and an opportunity.

“It was on my burrata salad at Boom + Batten, and it just went crazy. The kitchen staff would make their own staff meals with it, and then they’d take it and use it at home,” he recalls. “In the months after I left, I had so many people messaging me, asking for the recipe. I knew the demand was there and I could sell it.”

In 2023 he launched his jarred version of the vinaigrette, Ciao Chili, which was immediately picked up by the Root Cellar. But Cusano was still in the kitchen — by then, at Brentwood Bay Resort — and didn’t have time to focus on the sauce the way he wanted to. So in January, he became the Island sales rep for Two Rivers Meats, a nine-to-five gig that leaves him enough time and energy to pursue his passion on the side.

It’s already paying off. In October, he was inducted by the BC Restaurant Hall of Fame and Foodservices Association as a “rising star” in the BC Restaurant of Fame. (“It definitely was a big surprise, but it was a very good surprise,” he says.) And now, after renting part of a commercial kitchen for the past couple of years, he’s looking to find his own space where he can make and sell his vinaigrette, scale up and maybe introduce some new products as well.

Ciao Chili isn’t exactly a salad dressing, nor is it a chili crisp, but it is a little of both. It’s designed to be a versatile sauce that gives a little kick to whatever you want to put it on — eggs, pasta, potatoes, chicken wings, burgers, veggies, burrata. It makes a great marinade for meat and can be stirred into Hollandaise and other sauces. “Everyone has their own use for it so it hasn’t been pigeonholed,” he says.

The recipe is fairly simple, just Calabrian chilis, red peppers, sugar, vinegar, oil and spices, no emulsifiers or chemicals. “I wanted to have as clean a sheet as possible,” Cusano says. He hired The Number Creative to help him with his branding and spent a year getting it just right. “The jar and the label are quite premium. And the ingredients. I wanted to make it as premium as possible.”

And he’s not done — he’s definitely thinking about adding other products to the lineup. “One of the other sauces people love that I used to make is a romesco sauce,” he says. “That’s probably the next one.” We can hardly wait.

For the other Hall of Fame inductees, visit bcrfahalloffame.com. For more on Ciao Chili, follow @ciaochili on Instagram or visit ciaochili.ca

RENOVATIONS

Just a couple of months after Unsworth Vineyards revealed its grand new tasting-room/ production facility, Blue Grouse Estate Winery has unveiled its own newly renovated tasting room in the updated mezzanine space. It was brought to life by interior design firm Bidgood and pays homage to the diverse landscapes of the Cowichan Valley.

Here, guests can enjoy a series of new tasting experiences featuring wines made by Blue Grouse winemaker Stacy Hornemann, including sparkling Charme de l’Île, aromatic white varieties distinct to Vancouver Island, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. bluegrouse.ca

Two other big reno projects in the works: Q at the Fairmont Empress will be undergoing a royal makeover this winter and into spring; in the meanwhile, guests can enjoy a retro return to The Bengal, which will be open for the duration. And Unsworth isn’t done, either. The winery restaurant is closed for the season and will reopen with a fully refreshed look, more open spaces and a bigger patio for taking in those beautiful Cowichan Valley wine country views.

 BOURGOGNE BEAUTIES

For those who work in the wine trade, one of the highlights of October’s Victoria International Wine Festival was the master class on lesser-known wines from Burgundy. (Er, make that Bourgogne, the preferred name these days.) Educator Mark Shipway set out to prove that there is still value to be found in what is often a very expensive region. The takeaway? Rather than the famous Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, look for less familiar white varieties like Alligoté (mineral, honey, white flower) and Sauvignon Gris (citrus, floral, saline). Or check out lesserknown villages in prestigious regions, like Fixin in the Côte

de Nuits. Most of all, keep an eye out for Bourgogne on local wine lists — we suspect we’ll be seeing a lot more of these elegant, foodfriendly wines around town.

 VICTORIA’S TOP CHEFS

Victoria has become something of a destination for the country’s top chefs: Top Chef Canada Season 7 winner Paul Moran (Sixty Forty farm) and Season 9 finalists Andrea Alridge (Janevca Kitchen & Lounge) and Billy Nguyen (Rabbit Rabbit) have all recently made this their home. (Both Janevca and Rabbit Rabbit have also been longlisted for the Air Canada Best New Restaurants Awards, which will be announced on November 17. enroute.aircanada.com/best-newrestaurants)

Now a new Victoria chef is wielding whisks with the country’s best. Nick Maharaj, head chef at Part and Parcel, is competing in Season 12 of Top Chef Canada. Originally from Winnipeg, where he began his career washing dishes in his uncle’s Caribbean restaurant, he worked at the Wickaninnish Inn before landing at Part and Parcel, which won the 2025 YAM Best Restaurant Award for Best Casual Restaurant. flavournetwork.ca

Chef Nick Maharaj, Part and Parcel

 TRANSITIONS

Exciting news for fans of Citrus & Cane’s tropical-inspired cocktails: The awardwinning lounge is moving from its location above the former Paul’s Diner on Douglas Street to 606 Trounce Alley downtown. Last service at the old digs is NYE; the Piña Coladas will be flowing! citrusandcane.com

Rebar, which has been serving some of the city’s fave vegetarian dishes for nearly 40 years, has a new owner, Pottumutu Praveen, who has renamed it Urban Rebar and plans to transition to a South Asian-fusion focus, including some meat dishes. urbanrebar.com

At long last, Whistle Buoy Brewing Company has food! Grub is a counter-service kitchen within the taproom, offering quickservice sandwiches, salads, snacks, charcuterie boards and sweet treats, many made with local ingredients such as Crust Bakery bread and Four Quarters meats. “We have worked so hard to capture the spirit of Vancouver Island and its ingredients in our beer,” says coowner Colin Curtis, “and we have committed to taking the same approach with our food.” whistlebuoybrewing.com

A CULINARY HUB

For years, the Chefs’ Table Society has been talking about creating a gathering space for the food community and in October, CTS Culinary Commons opened its doors at 1250 East Georgia Street in Vancouver. The space may be “created by chefs for chefs,” but is designed to be used by anyone who loves food. It offers: professional development and amateur cooking classes; a versatile event space; a recording studio for the popular Mise en Place podcast; and a resource library that is designed to one day become North America’s largest culinary archive open to the public. CTS Culinary Commons will be open Tuesdays through Saturdays, with professional development and cooking classes commencing January 2026. chefstablesociety.com

The Garden Party salad at Grub.

Food + Drink

Gifts for Hosts (Especially if that Host is You)

Funny thing: No matter how many serving bowls or platters or spoons we accumulate, there are never enough when it’s party time. Here we’ve rounded up some handy gear for hosting your next gathering — and to gift your host the next time you’re invited over.

Charcuterie Board > The small-bites trend isn’t going anywhere any time soon, and that means you need a board, or maybe two. We love the ones you can find at the Salish Sea Market in Bowser, by artists like Greg Falys, who handcrafts his characterful boards from slabs of maple. salishseamarket.com

Really Good Olive Oil > One taste of Partanna Sicilian Robust extra-virgin olive oil, in the vintage-y red can, and you'll be smitten. Cold-pressed from Castelvetrano olives, it has a lovely, buttery flavour and a subtly peppery finish. Great for cooking, even better as a finishing oil. Available at Gigi’s Italian & Speciality Foods and Fig Deli.

Cheese Knives > If you’re serving cheese, you need something to cut, slice and spread it with, and few implements are as stylish for that as the classic French Laguiole knives. Available from Muffet & Louisa. muffetandlouisa.com

Champagne Stopper > Yes, there is such a thing as leftover Champagne, and no, sticking a spoon in the neck of the bottle will not keep it fizzy. But a proper stopper, like this one, will, at least until breakfast the next day. Available at Fan Tan Home & Style. If it’s a gift, package it with a bottle of sparkling wine. fantanvictoria.com

Champagne Cooler > Keep your bubbles chill in a sleekly contemporary cooler like this one by Stelton, inspired by the original AJ wine cooler designed by legendary Danish architect Arne Jacobsen in 1969 as part of his Bar Set. The simple cylindrical shape and handles blend beauty with practicality, and will fit seamlessly into any décor. Available at Gabriel Ross. grshop.com

Cloud Wine

This recipe from Corbin Mathany, chef-owner of Ugly Duckling Dining & Provisions, is at heart a riff on a New York Sour, a whisky sour fortified with red wine for added depth and tannic structure. He finds that Syrah adds ripe black fruit character and peppery spice.

• 2 oz rye whisky (preferably Stillhead Bartender’s Rye)

• ¾ oz Syrah Syrup (see recipe below)

• ¾ oz freshly squeezed and strained lemon juice

• dropper Ms. Better’s Miraculous Foamer (see note)

• Garnish: pulverized dried hibiscus flowers

Combine all ingredients (except garnish) in a cocktail shaker and dry-shake (without ice) for at least 10 seconds. Fill the shaker with cubed ice and shake vigorously for another 10 seconds. Double-strain into a chilled coupe, then dust with pulverized hibiscus flowers. Serves 1.

Note: Ms. Better’s Miraculous Foamer is a highquality, egg-free cocktail foamer, available from quality liquor stores such as Vintage Liquor. If you prefer, you can use ½ oz egg white instead, but Mathany finds the foamer yields a purer flavour and sidesteps allergen concerns.

Syrah Syrup:

• 1 cup Syrah (preferably from B.C.’s Tantalus Vineyards) or an Australian Shiraz

• 1 cup sugar

• 3 Tbsp dried hibiscus flowers

• 8 whole cloves

• 2 tsp whole Sichuan peppercorns, toasted

• 2 sticks cinnamon

• 3 pieces star anise

Combine all ingredients in a large, sealable plastic bag. Seal, and lower the bag into a pot of water heated to about 150°F. (It should be steaming, but not simmering.) Keep it in the hot water for 2 hours, then remove, chill and strain. Alternatively, you can add all the ingredients to a saucepot, heat to a simmer, cover, remove from heat and steep for two hours. But the beauty of the sealable-bag method is that it prevents any of the volatile aromatic compounds from evaporating.

NOVEMBER 6 - 20

Food + Drink

SPECTACULAR CELEBRATION

The croquembouche is the ultimate statement sweet.

We check in with the pros to learn how to make it at home.

For as long as I can remember, I’ve been smitten with the croquembouche, which is considered the celebration cake of France, though it’s not actually a cake at all. Its name literally means “crunch in the mouth” and it is a tower of cream puffs (or profiteroles, en français) held together with crisp caramel, the whole thing wrapped in a cloud of spun sugar.

I mean, seriously, what’s not to love?

Well, the process of making it, I suppose. There’s a lot of technique involved in the choux paste for the profiteroles, the crème pâtissière for filling them and the caramel for sticking them to the conical form, not to mention the actual assembly. This is not a dessert to whip together 20 minutes before the guests arrive.

But if there’s anyone who’s handy with all things croquembouche, it’s the team at the Fairmont Empress. There’s a croquembouche on the dessert table at pretty much every buffet they serve and they literally produce hundreds of cream puffs every single day.

So when I decided I wanted to learn how to make a croquembouche of my own, I turned to executive chef Isabel Chung, who joined the team in February after working at Fairmont properties in Hawaii and Whistler. She walked me through it, step by step, so I could share it with you.

But first a quick note: As noted above, the puffs in a traditional croquembouche are typically filled with crème pâtissière (a.k.a. pastry cream), a vanilla-flavoured custard thickened with cornstarch, which makes it both stable and versatile. Here, though, the team at the Empress created a luxurious whipped white chocolate ganache infused with rose-flavoured tea. And then because the ganache melts easily, they used chocolate as the glue to put the croquembouche together.

We’ve provided a crème pât recipe (see page 81), but if you decide to use the ganache (which we highly recommend; it’s delicious!), make it the night before so it has enough time to chill properly.

STEP BY STEP: How to Make a Croquembouche

PART 1 : The

Choux Paste

“Choux” in French means “cabbage,” and if you have a little imagination these delicate puffed pastries do look like teensy versions of the brassica. Choux paste is used for savoury gougères and sweet éclairs, churros and the cream puffs here. It’s made from a batter that is first cooked, then baked. “Choux paste is one of those things that cooks are not that bad at because it’s a kind of roux,” Chung explains.

Step 1. Heat the milk, water, sugar and salt in a medium-sized pot over medium heat, stirring frequently, until sugar is fully dissolved. “With all choux pastry we start with our liquids and bring them up to a simmer-slash-boil with our salt and sugar if there is any in the recipe,” Chung says.

Step 2. Add butter and cook, stirring, until it is fully melted. “I’m melting it all together and then I’ll bring it up to just under a boil,” Chung says.

Step 3. Add the flour and continue to cook, stirring constantly, “a little longer than we think we should.” Cook until the batter forms a ball and a thin layer of flour coats the inside of the pot.

Step 4. Remove the pot from the heat and scrape the contents into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. Mix on low speed to cool it a little before beating in the eggs. (Alternatively, you could spread it on the bottom of a shallow bowl and whisk the eggs in when the batter is cold enough.)

Step 5. When it is only a little bit warm to the touch, add the eggs, one at a time, mixing each in fully. “You’ve got to give the eggs a chance to get incorporated. You’re looking for a glossy dough.”

Step 6. Transfer the batter to a piping bag fitted with a large round tip and, on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper, pipe it into mounds about the size of a toonie in width. “Then you dab them so you don’t have quite such a poop emoji,” Chung says, adding that they don’t have to be perfect. “It still looks homemade.”

Step 7. Bake the cream puffs, taking care not to open the oven door while they are baking. Remove from the oven and cool. They can be made a day before you use them, and also freeze quite well.

Find the full recipe on page 84.

Right: To make consistently sized cream puffs, mark 1 ¼-inch circles on a sheet of parchment, then transfer the choux batter to a piping bag and pipe it within the circles.

Left: Fairmont Empress executive chef Isabel Chung demonstrates the first stage of making the choux batter. As it cooks, it forms a ball and leaves a film on the sides of the pot when it is ready.
Above: Once the cooked choux batter has cooled a little, she adds the eggs one a time, mixing each one in fully.

PART 2: The Filling

Whether you use the ganache or the crème pâtissière (recipe on the next page), you will need to factor in chilling time, so consider making your filling the day before you assemble the croquembouche.

Step 8. Make the filling. For ganache, you basically need to pour hot, heavy cream over chopped chocolate, mix the whole thing together until smooth and then chill it for at least six hours before using. To make crème pât, you will make a custard, cool it down quickly in an ice bath and chill for at least two hours. Plan accordingly.

Step 9. When you’re ready to fill the cream puffs, place the ganache in the bowl of a mixer fitted with a whisk attachment and whip until light and airy. If you’re using the crème pât, whisk it until smooth.

Step 10. Transfer the filling to a piping bag fitted with a smallish round tip, then use the tip to poke a hole in the bottom of each and start filling the puffs. “We like to go from the bottom and it almost naturally pushes the tip back,” Chung says. Just don’t get too aggressive or the ganache will burst through the top. “Those are the ones you get to eat.”

Chef Chung transfers the whipped ganache (or crème pât) to a piping bag fitted with a small round tip, then uses that to poke a hole in the bottom of each cream puff and carefully fill it.

Crème Pâtissière (Pastry Cream)

• 2 cups whole milk

• 1 vanilla bean, split and scraped (or, if you prefer, 1 Tbsp vanilla paste)

• ½ cup granulated sugar

• 3 Tbsp cornstarch

• ¼ tsp salt, preferably kosher salt such as Diamond Crystal

• 4 very cold large egg yolks

• 2 Tbsp unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch cubes

In a 2-quart stainless steel pot, preferably a saucier with a curved bottom to make whisking easier, combine milk and scraped vanilla bean along with its seeds (or vanilla paste). Bring to a bare simmer over medium heat. Remove from heat, cover to prevent evaporation, and cool for 30 minutes.

In a large bowl, set up an ice bath by filling it halfway with a combination of cold water and ice cubes. Set aside.

In a medium heatproof mixing

A decidedly spicy and bespoke boutique filled with cleverly curated treasures from near and far: to fall in love with, wish for, LOL at, and gift sublime. Welcome to our brand of festive and feisty holiday fun.

PART 3: The Assembly

To build your tower, you need a cone-shaped form to build it around. You can find Styrofoam versions at places like Michael’s or stainless steel ones at kitchen supply stores. You can also make your own from posterboard. They can be nine to 24 inches high, but for the recipe here we suggest one that’s about 12 inches in height. If it’s made of Styrofoam or cardboard, cover it in parchment paper, which is both food safe and makes it easy to remove the cream puffs when it’s time to eat them.

Step 11. A traditional croquembouche is held together with caramel, but here the chefs used couverture chocolate instead. “It’s easier than melting sugar and you’re less likely to burn yourself,” says Chung. If you do want to use caramel, combine 1 �∕₂ cups sugar and 6 Tbsp water in a small pot and cook over medium heat; once it comes to a boil, continue to cook without stirring until it is a medium amber colour. This should take about 10 minutes; carefully pour it into a small, heatproof glass bowl to make it easier to use. Otherwise, just melt chopped chocolate in a glass bowl in the microwave. One at a time, dip the bottom of each puff in the chocolate (or caramel) and place it on the cone, working your way in rows all the way around, starting at the bottom. It’s best to wait till each cream puff is set before adding the next.

Step 12. Decorate your croquembouche. Sprinkle it with icing sugar or gold flakes, or garnish it with pieces of chocolate or with spun caramelized sugar.

Enjoy within two hours or the whole thing will start to melt, especially if the conditions in the room where it’s served are warm or humid.

Rose Tea Croquembouche

This recipe from the team at the Fairmont Empress replaces the traditional caramel “glue” with chocolate, which is easier to use and just as delicious. The cream puffs are filled with a delicate rose-tea-infused white chocolate ganache, but if you prefer to use the traditional pastry cream, a recipe is on page 81. We suggest prepping the cream puffs and filling the day before you plan to assemble and serve the croquembouche. Also note that it’s best to make and serve a croquembouche in a cool, dry room, and to consume it within two hours of assembly.

If you balk at actually building your tower, the cream puffs are delicious — and impressive! — on their own.

CREAM PUFFS

Makes 50 pieces.

• ½ cup + 4 tsp whole milk

• cup water

• ¼ tsp salt

• 1 tsp granulated sugar

• cup butter

• 1 cup all-purpose flour

• 3 large eggs

convection). Line two baking sheets with parchment paper and, using a 1 ¼-inch round cutter, trace 25 circles an inch apart on each sheet of parchment.

Put milk, water, butter, salt and sugar in a medium-sized pot and cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, and bring to a boil.

Stir in the flour. Mix well and continue to cook until it forms a ball and a thin layer of flour coats the side and bottom of the pot.

Remove from heat and transfer the batter into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment.

Mix on low to cool the mixture down slightly; this should take about 3 minutes.

Turn the mixer up to medium and, one at a time, slowly add in the eggs, mixing until fully incorporated before adding the next one.

Transfer the batter to a piping bag fitted with a ¾-inch round tip. Pipe the mixture in rounds about 1 ¼-inch width, using the outlines on the parchment as a guide. Gently tap the peaks to flatten them.

Bake for 18 to 20 minutes, taking care not to open the oven door while baking the choux. Remove from oven and cool completely before adding the filling.

ROSE TEA WHIPPED GANACHE

Start this at least six hours and ideally the day before you plan to use it. Makes about 3 cups.

• 1 tsp unflavoured gelatin powder

• 2 tsp cold water

• 1 cup chopped white chocolate

• 2 cups heavy cream

• 4 tsp loose-leaf rose tea

• ¼ tsp vanilla paste (see note)

In a small bowl, mix the gelatin powder with 2 tsp cold water, stirring until fully dissolved. Set aside. Place the chopped chocolate in a heatproof bowl.

Place the cream in a small pot and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring to make sure it doesn’t burn on the bottom. Remove from the heat and add the rose tea leaves; cover and steep for about 10 minutes.

Strain the cream mixture, discarding the tea leaves, then measure again, adding more cream if necessary to get 2 cups.

Bring to a boil again, then pour over the white chocolate. Add in the hydrated gelatin and vanilla. Stir until smooth; if you like, use an immersion blender to emulsify the mixture. Chill for at least 6 hours and ideally overnight before using.

When you are ready to use the ganache, transfer it to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment and whip the ganache until light and airy.

Transfer to a piping bag fitted with a small round tip.

Pipe the cream into the cream puffs from the bottom until they are completely filled.

Note: Vanilla paste is thicker than vanilla extract, contains visible vanilla bean specks and provides a deeper vanilla flavour; however if you don’t have any, just use the same amount of vanilla extract.

ASSEMBLY

• About 9 oz (250 grams) chopped chocolate, any flavour you like, ideally couverture (see note)

• Icing sugar, gold flakes or granulated sugar for garnish

Cover a Styrofoam cone about 12 inches high with parchment paper.

Place the chocolate in a medium-sized microwave-safe and heatproof bowl. Microwave for 30 seconds, stir, then microwave for an additional 20 to 25 seconds before stirring again. If needed, continue heating in 15-second intervals, stirring in between, until melted and smooth. (If you prefer, you can also melt the chocolate in the top of a double boiler.)

One at a time, dip the bottom of each cream puff in the chocolate, then place it on the cone, working your way in rows all the way around, starting at the bottom. Wait until each is set before adding the next. Do this in a cool, dry room.

Decorate your croquembouche with a sprinkle of icing sugar or gold flakes or threads of spun sugar.

To do this, make a caramel by mixing ½ cup sugar and 2 Tbsp water together in a small, heavy pot and cooking over medium heat until

move the fork in a circular motion around the croquembouche from top to bottom to form hair-like strands of caramel.

Note: Couverture chocolate is a highquality chocolate that contains a higher percentage of cocoa butter than baking or eating chocolate (32 to 39 per cent), which provides a smooth texture and glossy finish. It’s typically used for enrobing, moulding and garnishing confections. Look for brands such as Valrhona, Callebaut, Cacao Barry and Guittard and Lindt.

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THE PERFECT PARTY PÂTÉ

Unexpected drop-ins? No problem. Be ready to welcome guests any time with easy, rustic rillettes, the make-ahead star of your party pantry.

This year I promised myself I’d entertain more often, and more casually.

I mean, I love hosting a fancy dinner party, spending weeks tinkering with the menu and days and days on prep, but who has the time and energy to do all that? Not me, at least not more than a couple of times a year.

But a casual drop-in? That I can do just about any time.

The trick to making this sort of entertaining successful (and stress-free) is to have what I think of as a party pantry. That means keeping a supply of things that you can pull out of a cupboard and add to a board of tasty bites. They include gourmet items like nuts and crackers and fancy jams, tins of fish, containers of olives and jars of tart little cornichon pickles. (See page 90 for ideas.) Add some cheese and cured meats, then crack open a bottle of wine and it’s a party! If you’re like me, though, you still want to offer something you made from scratch. For that, I look to fancy-ish things that can be made ahead and kept in the fridge or freezer. I’ll often have a tub of frozen crab or spinachand-artichoke dip tucked away, for instance, or chilled logs of savoury shortbread dough that I can slice and bake to go as needed with cocktails or fizzy wine.

But one of my favourite things to make is rillettes. This rustic pâté (some less romantic souls might call it potted meat) takes very little hands-on time or effort to prepare, then lasts in the fridge for days and days. Some say rillettes will keep for weeks or even months, though personally I’m a little uncomfortable with that, so I keep them in the freezer and thaw as needed.

Invented way back in 15th-century France as a way to preserve meat, rillettes are typically made from pork, duck, goose or rabbit, although they can also be made from fish or even vegetables. They look unassuming, quietly beige in their little ramekins, but have a surprisingly deep, rich flavour enhanced by tangy accoutrements like mustard, cornichons or pickled red onions. Serve them with crusty bread and a side salad for an easy lunch, or make rillettes the star of a charcuterie board. With the holidays around the corner, this is the best time of year to fling open your doors and welcome your friends and family in. All you need is a little prep, and a pot or two of rillettes.

Pork Rillettes

Rillettes are an easy, flavourful, rustic pâté. They can be made with duck, goose, rabbit or pork meat, which is slowly cooked and blended with fat until it reaches a spreadable consistency. This recipe for pork rillettes is lightly adapted from one by the folks at Two Rivers Meats.

Makes 3 to 4 cups.

• 2 lb pork shoulder

• 2 tsp salt, plus additional as needed

• 4 bay leaves

• 4 sprigs thyme

• 2 shallots, quartered

• Pinch of nutmeg

• 1 tsp black peppercorns

• 4 cups pork fat, melted (see note)

Heat oven to 275°F. Sterilize 4 (250 mL) ramekins or 4 (250 mL) wide-mouth Mason jars and set aside.

Chop pork into small pieces. Pack into a roasting pan or Dutch oven and season with 2 tsp salt. Add herbs, shallots and spices, then cover with melted fat.

Cover the pan tightly with a lid or foil. Place in oven and cook until meat is tender, about 3 hours — the pork should show little resistance and shred easily when poked with a fork. Remove from oven.

Using tongs or a spider, transfer pork to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, and let it cool for a few minutes. Meanwhile, pour the remaining fat through a fine mesh strainer and/or cheesecloth into a measuring cup or pitcher and set aside.

With the mixer on its lowest setting, start mixing the pork. Once it begins to break down, slowly add a little of the melted fat back into the bowl, a tablespoon at a time, gradually adding more fat and continuing to mix until it reaches your desired consistency. The texture should be coarse,

but slightly emulsified and creamy — it should not be a paste, so try not to overmix it. Taste and add salt or pepper as needed. Divide the mixture between the prepared ramekins or Mason jars, trying to remove any air bubbles. Flatten the top of the rillettes with the back of a spoon and then pour ¼ inch of melted fat on top, making sure all the meat is covered. If using jars, wipe the lid clean and seal. Refrigerate at least one day before serving.

Do ahead: The rillettes will keep for at least a week in the fridge or 3 months in the freezer. Thaw overnight in the fridge before serving. How to serve it: Rillettes are ideal as part of a charcuterie board or on their own as an appetizer or light lunch. Serve chilled as a spread for crusty bread, crostini or crackers, along with a dab of Dijon mustard and cornichons or pickled red onions.

Note: If you have leftover fat, strain it and then freeze it to use next time.

Mushroom Rillettes

If you have vegetarians in your crowd, this makes a nice alternative to meaty rillettes. Serves 4 to 6.

• 10 oz mushrooms, thinly sliced

• 6 Tbsp unsalted butter, divided

• 1 small shallot, finely chopped

• ¼ cup water

• 1 Tbsp white wine vinegar

• 1 tsp fresh tarragon or thyme leaves, finely chopped

• Salt and pepper to taste

In a large skillet over medium-high heat, melt 2 Tbsp of the butter, then brown the mushrooms. (This should take about 15 minutes or more.) Add the shallot and cook over medium heat for 1 minute.

Mix water and vinegar together, then add to the pan to deglaze it, scraping up any delicious browned bits on the bottom. Keep cooking, stirring occasionally, until almost dry.

Remove from the heat and add the remaining butter and tarragon or thyme. Season generously with salt and pepper. Transfer to a bowl and let cool.

Do ahead: This will keep in the fridge for about 4 days; bring to room temperature before serving.

To serve: Spoon the “rillettes” onto toasts or crostinis then top with sliced radishes, chopped parsley and/or pickled red onion.

Duck Rillettes

Even richer and more flavourful than pork rillettes, this duck variation is pure decadent luxury. If you use purchased confited duck legs and fat, this will take little time to make; if you make your own duck confit, add on at least 24 hours of mostly inactive time.

Makes 2 to 3 cups.

• 4 confited duck legs (see the next page for instructions for making your own duck confit)

• About 2 cups duck fat, melted

• Salt and pepper as needed

Sterilize 4 (250 mL) ramekins or 4 (250 mL) wide-mouth Mason jars and set aside. Remove skin and bones from the confited duck legs, then shred the meat into a largish bowl. A tablespoonful at a time, add duck fat to the meat, mixing it together well, until you reach your desired consistency. Check the flavour and, if needed, season with salt and pepper.

Pack the rillettes into ramekins or jars, then pour remaining fat over top, about ¼-inch deep, to create a seal. Chill for at least 2 hours before serving.

Do ahead: The rillettes will keep for at least a week in the fridge or 3 months in the freezer. Thaw overnight in the fridge before serving.

Duck Confit

Note that you will need to start this at least one full day before you plan to use it. Serves 4.

• ½ cup kosher salt

• 2 Tbsp sugar

• 2 Tbsp dried or chopped fresh thyme leaves

• 2 tsp crushed black peppercorns

• Optional: 1 tsp juniper berries, lightly crushed

• 4 duck legs

• 3 to 4 cups duck fat

In a small bowl, mix together the salt, sugar, thyme, pepper and juniper berries (if using) to make a cure.

Pat the duck legs dry, then pat the cure over them. Place them in a single layer in a non-reactive container such as a glass or ceramic dish, then pour any remaining cure mixture over top. Cover with plastic wrap, then place in the refrigerator for 12 to 24 hours.

Preheat oven to 300°F.

Thoroughly rinse the cure mixture off the duck legs, then pat them dry and arrange them, skin side up and in a single layer, in a baking dish. Note that the more snugly they fit in the dish, the less duck fat you will need to use.

Melt the duck fat and pour it over the duck legs. They should be well-covered, but it’s OK if a little bit of the skin peeks above the fat. Place them in the oven and bake for 2 to 3 hours, until the meat shrinks off the bone and is very tender when poked with a knife. Do ahead: Traditionally, duck confit would be kept in the duck fat, which creates a preserving layer that should last for up to a month in the fridge. We prefer to remove the legs from the fat, then strain the fat and store both separately. They will keep in the fridge for up to a week or in the freezer for up to 3 months.

To serve: If you’re not using the duck for rillettes, crisp up the legs in a frying pan for just a few minutes, then serve with crusty bread and a light salad.

Scotland Beyond the Mist

Join your host, Cathy Scott, on an unforgettable 9-day journey through the heart of Scotland. From Edinburgh’s historic streets to the wild beauty of the Isle of Skye, this immersive tour blends rich history, legendary landscapes, and vibrant culture. Discover iconic castles, taste traditional whisky, and cruise the serene waters of Loch Lomond. With guided walks, scenic drives, and plenty of time to explore, every day offers a new adventure steeped in the spirit of Scotland.

about this incredible trip!

BETTER BOARDS

Whip up these three easy gourmet add-ons to your rillettes.

Spiced Pecans

These sweetly spiced nuts make a great addition to a cheese or charcuterie board, but are also a lovely snack on their own.

Makes about 4 cups.

• ¼ cup (½ stick) unsalted butter

• ½ cup packed golden brown sugar

• ¼ cup water

• 1 tsp salt

• 2 tsp Chinese five-spice powder

• ½ tsp ground cumin

• ½ tsp ground black pepper

• 4 cups pecan halves

Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Line two large, rimmed baking sheets with parchment or silicone liners. Set aside. In a large skillet, melt butter over medium heat. Add brown sugar, water, salt and spices. Stir until sugar dissolves. Add nuts to skillet and cook until they are thickly coated in the sugar mixture, about 5 minutes. Transfer nuts to prepared baking sheets, spreading them in a single layer. Bake until golden, about 10 minutes. Cool completely and store in an airtight container (preferably in the refrigerator). Do ahead: These nuts will last for several months in the refrigerator.

THE ESSENTIAL PARTY PANTRY

Be ready to welcome guests any time by stocking up on these gourmet entertaining basics.

 Olives

 Cornichons and other pickles

 Dijon or grainy mustard

 Fig or quince jams (to accompany brie and other creamy cheeses)

 Nuts (marcona almonds, pecans, pistachios)

Dried fruit (apricots, cherries)

Conservas (fancy tinned fish, oysters, sardines, tuna and the

Potato chips (plain and lightly salted or fancy flavours, like truffle)

Crackers (plain water crackers or croccantini are the most versatile, rice crackers are a good idea for the gluten sensitive, and flavoured crisps are a nice option)

Sparkling wine

Sparkling water

Cocktail napkins

PRO TIP

It’s great if you have a wide selection of beer and wine on hand, and impressive if you have a fully stocked bar. But the only alcoholic beverage you really need for most of life’s entertaining dilemmas is sparkling wine. It doesn’t have to be spendy Champagne — local Charme de L’île is a good choice, and so is a nice B.C. brut or French crémant. Have a couple of bottles chilling at all times and you’ll be ready for just about anything.

Averil Creek Charme de L’île

2. Crostini

Extend the life of a baguette by turning it into crostini, crispy little toast rounds perfect for spreads, cheeses and canapés. Simply slice the baguette cross-wise into rounds about ¼-inch thick, brush with olive oil, sprinkle with a little salt if you like and bake in a 350°F oven until golden and crisp. Do ahead: Once these crostini are cool, pop them in a Ziploc bag and they should keep for a couple of weeks.

3. Quick-Pickled Red Onions

These pretty pink quick pickles are a great addition to cheese and charcuterie boards. Makes 1 (500 mL) jar.

• 1 medium red onion, thinly sliced

• ½ cup distilled white vinegar, or the vinegar of your choice

• ½ cup water

• 2 tsp granulated sugar

• 1½ tsp kosher salt

• 1 tsp black peppercorns

Place the sliced onion in a glass container or Mason jar. Set aside.

Place the remaining ingredients in a smallish saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring until sugar and salt are fully dissolved.

Pour brine over onions and let cool at room temperature. They’ll be ready to use after 30 minutes, but better after a few hours. Cover and keep chilled.

Do ahead: Note that this recipe is for a quick pickle that must be kept in the refrigerator and used within two weeks.

Variations: If you like, add a few sprigs of dill or thyme to the jar, or a smashed clove of garlic, a bay leaf, some red pepper flakes or a couple of strips of citrus peel.

LOUISE HAMMOND/STOCKFOOD

Food + Drink

BETTER WITH BITTERS

These botanical extracts can elevate your cocktails from basic to sublime.

Not content to rest on its many laurels, Langford’s Sheringham Distillery recently marked its 10th anniversary with a new gambit — house-made cocktail bitters.

So far, there are two expressions, Aromatic Bitters and Rosemary & Orange Bitters, a perfect opening move, given that the majority of recipes that call for bitters specify either aromatic or orange. So, with this classic pair, Sheringham distiller Jason MacIsaac has covered off a lot of bases.

“They call them the salt and pepper of the cocktail world,” he says of bitters generally.

Just a couple of drops of Sheringham Rosemary & Orange Bitters can transform a cocktail.

“These two have been in the works for a number of years and now that I finally finalized the recipes, I’m really happy with the product.”

MacIsaac adds:

“We’ll see if another one is born a bit later on, but I'm busy working on spirits recipes right now, so we’ll see. I’m not sure.”

BETTER IN SMALL DOSES

Years in the making? That tracks. Cocktail bitters are simultaneously dead simple and wildly complicated. Essentially a botanical extract made by steeping herbs and other ingredients in high-proof alcohol, bitters are the fruit of a straightforward process — at least on paper. In real life, getting the right level of bitterness and balancing that off against punchy flavours is a challenge, especially when people get into ambitious blends of secret herbs and spices.

How many types of bitters are out there? Lots. But, loosely speaking, most bitters fit into one of four styles: aromatic; fruit (largely citrus); herbs (and spice); and, finally, nut/ coffee/chocolate bitters. Given this range, knowing when to use which bitters can be a bit of an art, but it’s generally safe to say that if a recipe calls for orange bitters any citrus bitters will do the trick. And, since a little bitters goes a long way in a cocktail — recipes usually call for just a few drops — it’s hard to go too wrong, even with the more esoteric expressions.

Sheringham Distillery is best known for its award-winning gins, but also produces a small range of bitters from fine botanicals.

Michela Palmer, cofounder of Esquimalt Vermouths & Apéritifs, a Nanaimo-based producer that also makes the Rootside line of bitters, says she’s noticed an uptick in interest in artisanal bitters.

“I think during the pandemic, a lot of people discovered bitters, because people had to make their own cocktails instead of going to bars,” she says. “We started seeing a big spike around that time.”

Esquimalt Vermouths & Apéritifs produces several cocktail bitters that range from classic orange to intense coffee and cardamom.

Cocktail bartenders, of course, knew all about bitters before the lockdown. It’s worth noting, though, that the current bitters renaissance is less than 20 years old. Prior to that, in the 1990s and early aughts, it was still common for most bars to have a dusty bottle of Angostura on a shelf that absolutely nobody knew what to do with. That changed quickly with the rise of craft cocktails, which saw bartenders pore over 19th-century cocktail books, only to discover that, back in the day, bitters — again, usually orange or aromatic — was an essential ingredient.

Esquimalt makes both aromatic and orange (Palmer is particularly proud of the vibrant and tangy Rootside Orange), but also offers other expressions that feature local ingredients, such as root beer, roasted dandelion and Cascadian.

“It’s ‘Cascadian’ as in the Cascadia region, not Cascade hops,” Palmer clarifies. “It’s made with juniper, rosemary and elecampane [a flower in the aster family] and it gives you these rainforest vibes. It’s really invigorating and refreshing and it’s fabulous if you’re having a Martini and just want to add something with a very West Coast flavour profile.”

BETTER IN NON-ALCOHOLIC DRINKS

It’s also fabulous (as are all bitters) in soda or still water. Palmer says it’s likely that some of the recent interest in bitters is driven by people who were trying to brighten up low- and no-alcohol options. (Bitters contain alcohol, but since it’s used in such small quantities, the total alcohol by volume in a pint of soda with bitters is equivalent to the amount of alcohol in kombucha.)

“I would also say that the surge in sales during the pandemic was probably also about people looking for local options,” she adds. “And I think for the last little while there’s been another big swing of people wanting to support local and support Canadian, too.”

People looking to support local can order bitters directly from Sheringham (sheringhamdistillery.com) or Esquimalt (esquimaltvermouth.ca). Rootside Bitters can also be found at Victoria’s Market Garden, which has an extensive non-alc product section.

Between these two producers, most of the flavour wheel is covered, but anyone wanting to build a serious bitters library might also want to check out Vancouver’s Ms. Better's (msbetters.com) and/or Bittered Sling (bitteredsling.com).

Or, make your own!

Beachcomber Bitters

This recipe calls for lime, but should work with grapefruit and other citrus fruits just as well. Note that this will take 18 days to complete.

Makes about 2 ½ cups.

• ½ cup fresh lime zest (from about 12 large limes)

• 3 Tbsp minced fresh ginger

• 2 Tbsp dried gentian root (see notes)

• 1 Tbsp dried mint

• 1 Tbsp whole cloves

• 2 cups overproof white rum, such as Wray & Nephew Overproof

• 6 oz water (for later)

Combine all ingredients except the water in a large, very clean glass jar. Seal and shake well. Store in a cool, dark place to steep for 14 days.

Every day, check in on the bitters and agitate the mixture by giving it a good shake (see notes).

Two weeks later, it’s almost ready. Using a cheesecloth, strain the liquid into a clean (preferably sterilized) glass jar, but retain the solids in the cloth. Tie the cheesecloth to make a sachet. Bring 6 oz water to a boil and remove from heat. Drop the sachet into the hot water and let it infuse for 30 to 45 minutes, until the water is fully cooled.

Add the infused water to the alcohol mixture in the fresh jar. Seal, shake and let rest for four days.

Filter one last time through a coffee filter and then bottle it in glass dasher bottles.

Notes: Gentian root is the main bittering agent and can be sourced from herbalists and many health food stores.

According to Michela Palmer, bittering agents can vary in potency and, at a certain point, can take over. To avoid that, taste with an eye dropper daily.

DANCE TO THE END OF LOVE

Through performance, words and images, Still With Us artfully examines the legacy of HIV/AIDS.

Photo

“risqué and riotously hilarious”

—Toronto Star

“I was completely won over”

—Globe & Mail

and contemplating a grim legacy and its generational impact. Yet they believe it’s necessary to tell those stories, to celebrate the fallen and maintain the hope that such an epidemic is never revisited.

Left: The multidisciplinary exhibition Still With Us, presented by Kegan McFadden, left, and Stephen White, captures the devastating impact of HIV/AIDS on the arts community. Among the artworks/artifacts it showcases: this memorial quilt for “Timothy,” who died of AIDS-related causes at the age of 28. The quilt is on loan from AVI Health & Community Services, whose archive will be on view at The Bay Centre until December 1.

OPENS NOV 21

“... we’ve got to tell this story. It’s being lost. There’s a generation who don’t know about it.”

“There’s still stigma around it,” says McFadden. “I think it’s particularly touchy for men of a certain generation to talk about, while others are still traumatized by the grief they had to endure.”

White is worried that what happened, and just how big it was, is slipping from public memory. “The impetus, for me, is we’ve got to tell this story. It’s being lost. There’s a generation who don’t know about it.”

That became apparent a couple of years ago around the Thanksgiving dinner table, as conversation turned to HIV/AIDS and how the epidemic devastated the gay community four decades ago. White and his partner Bill were shocked to discover that his nephew’s teenage boys had never heard of it.

“It had been such a big part of our lives, losing friends and lovers and countless people,” says White.

A week after that conversation, he received word from the dance archives about the pending exhibition, which is now Victoria’s exhibition. vicartscouncil.ca

Still With Us Highlights

ART EXHIBITION

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Still With Us: A Legacy of HIV/AIDS in the Arts Until December 1, The Bay Centre

READING

The Wines of Tuscany

November 1, the Belfry Theatre

Staged reading of the 1997 play by Conrad Alexandrowicz, with a performance by Victoria’s Gettin’ Higher Choir.

PERFORMANCE

Saying Goodbye to My Brother

November 21 to 22, the Baumann Centre

Dance duet choreographed by Lynda Raino and an excerpt of an opera by librettist Rick Waines, both performed by Dancers 4 Life. Also: The Viral Monologues, commissioned by Intrepid Theatre.

BOOK LAUNCH

Still With Us

November 29, The Bay Centre

Featuring writings based on actual letters between Emerthe Nakabonye and Peggy Frank.

SCREENING

Day With(out) Art

December 1 (World AIDS Day), The Bay Centre Films by HIV-positive filmmakers.

CULTURE CALENDAR

’Tis the season for local live performance!

TOWER OF SONG: A CREATIVE TRIBUTE TO LEONARD COHEN

November 8, McPherson Playhouse

Witness Canadian excellence with Victoria-based duo Oliver Swain and Glenna Garramone as they pay tribute to lyrical legend Leonard Cohen. These two decorated musicians are joined by Juno Award-winning songwriter Stephen Fearing, multi-Juno nominee Dawn Pemberton, percussionist Alex Campbell and composer, instrumentalist and producer Adrian Dolan. rmts.bc.ca

A CONCERT OF REMEMBRANCE AND A TRIBUTE TO CANADA

November 9, Mary Winspear Centre

The Sidney Concert Band honours Canadians in service, both past and present, leading up to Remembrance Day. This performance will feature an accompanying tribute to music from Canadian musicians with singers, bagpipes and the 676 Air Cadet Colour Guard. marywinspear.ca

UNITY (1918)

November 19 to December 7, Langham Court Theatre

The Spanish Flu descends upon the Saskatchewan small town of Unity in this live performance of the Governor General’s Award-winning drama. Witness how the human spirit endures against heightened community tensions in this Gothic narrative written by Kevin Kerr, a UVic associate professor and former writing department chair. langhamtheatre.ca

ASKING FOR TROUBLE

November 20, Royal Theatre

Get ready to crack up with Canadian comedy stars Colin Mochrie and Brad Sherwood from the hit TV show Whose Line is it Anyway? See this comic duo perform their North American improv tour with live-audience suggestions. rmts.bc.ca

DANCE

VICTORIA PRESENTS UKRAINIAN SHUMKA DANCERS’ NUTCRACKER

November 28 to 30, Royal Theatre

The timeless Christmas classic is reinterpreted as “Canada’s Ukrainian Nutcracker” with a 70-plusstrong cast that features Shumka dancers, youth from Veselka Ukrainian Dancers of Victoria, Clara’s Dream Choir and the Victoria Symphony. This enchanting folk ballet combines grace, power, lavish sets and colourful costumes as young Clara finds her dream Prince. rmts.bc.ca

LITTLE DICKENS

December 2 to 21, Belfry Theatre

This salaciously funny spin on Charles Dickens’s A Christmas Carol sees Ebenezer Scrooge reimagined as a surly theatrical diva played by Ronnie Burkett, recipient of a Governor General’s Award for Lifetime Achievement in the Arts. Audiences aged 16 and older are invited to indulge in this wild, out-of-control circus of a performance. belfry.bc.ca

WINTER WONDERLAND

December 5 to 7, Mary Winspear Centre

Step into a world of music and magic as the Peninsula Singers perform a mix of timeless holiday classics and modern favourites with stunning vocals and heartwarming melodies. This celebration is a perfect way to get into the festive spirit. marywinspear.ca

THE DEBATERS 20th ANNIVERSARY HOLIDAY SPECIAL

December 10, Royal Theatre

To celebrate two decades of entertaining Canadians on CBC Radio, The Debaters are wrapping up their exclusively live coastto-coast holiday tour here in Victoria. Host Steve Patterson and his debating elves deliver an evening of stand-up comedy and two joke-filled debates. rmts.bc.ca

MESSIAH BY CANDLELIGHT

December 11 to 14, Christ Church Cathedral

The Victoria Symphony, alongside three local choirs and four leading soloists, breathe life into Handel’s world-renowned oratorio Messiah. Settle amid the glow of candlelight in the grandeur of Christ Church Cathedral for an unforgettable night of vocal complexity and drama. rmts.bc.ca

BLUE STOCKINGS

December 11 to 14, Canadian College of Performing Arts

This witty period drama, set in 1896 Cambridge, England, follows four young women as they fight against society’s imposed expectations in the pursuit of education. Watch these feminist pioneers navigate the challenges and prejudices faced as intelligent, independent women within the larger backdrop of women’s suffrage. ccpacanada.com

DAKHABRAKHA’S TOUR FOR UKRAINE

December 12, University Farquhar Auditorium

Formed in Kyiv, this musical quartet returns for the second year in a row with an audiovisual spectacle. DakhaBrakha’s “ethno-chaos” fuses Ukrainian folk melodies with a variety of contemporary rhythms, creating a musical tapestry that NPR refers to as “utter brilliance.” purchase.tickets.uvic.ca/events

A WONDERHEADS CHRISTMAS CAROL

December 19 to 21, McPherson Playhouse

The critically acclaimed theatre group

WonderHeads presents the holiday classic with an extravagant twist. This unforgettable live experience features (among other spectacles) giant masks, glowing ghosts and 10-foot-tall puppets. Experience what’s described as “pure magic” by the CBC and “powerful, surprising and moving” by the Globe and Mail. rmts.bc.ca

CHRISTMAS WITH JOHNNY REID

December 22, Royal Theatre

Catch Johnny Reid, a Juno Award-winning country singer-songwriter, live in a joyful holiday celebration. With three decades of musical success under his belt, Reid will perform personal favourites, cherished classics and inspiring stories. rmts.bc.ca

THE GIFT OF THE NUTCRACKER

December 28 to 30, Royal Theatre

The Victoria Symphony and Ballet Victoria present a timeless classic to wrap up the holiday season. This annual tradition evolves with each season while showcasing the talent of the Ballet Victoria dancers, who add contemporary flair to thrill audiences. rmts.bc.ca

VITALY ZOROBYOV

Serenity of a Winter Wood

We love the tranquility of a walk in the woods at this time of year, escaping the seasonal busy-ness to surround ourselves with the soft green fragrance, the gentle hush, the towering evergreen conifers of a coastal forest. If we’re lucky, as we amble along, we might find a branch, tossed by a winter wind and laden with cones, to add to a centrepiece or the wreath on our door.

Here on Vancouver Island, our conifers comprise several types of fir, as well as red or yellow cedar, Sitka spruce, western or mountain hemlock, western white pine and western yew. The most common of them is the Douglas fir, the tallest tree in the pine (Pinaceae) family, which is also sometimes known as a Douglas spruce, although it is not actually a true fir, pine or spruce tree.

What makes a conifer a conifer is, of course, the presence of cones, which can be big or small, hard or soft, male or female.

Male cones tend to be small and thin and form at the base of branches. They produce pollen — blame them for your springtime allergies and the yellow dust on your deck. The pollen is borne on the wind to fertilize the larger, more exposed, female cones. Once seeds develop, the female cones open up or disintegrate to release them; the seeds are then scattered by the wind or animals to form new trees, at least if they land in the right conditions.

Given their evergreen nature and prolific productivity, it’s not surprising that, throughout history and across cultures, pine cones have symbolized spiritual enlightenment, resurrection, eternal life and fertility. But to us, they’re simply a joyful addition to a festive table and a reminder of the peace to be found amid the evergreens.

The Douglas fir is our most prolific conifer, and its cones unique in that they have three-pointed bracts sticking out of the scales.

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Photo: Ian Jackson Epic Photography

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