Advance Weaving | Structures

Page 63

DOUBLE CLOTH FABRIC Double CLoth or (double weave) is a kind of woven textile in which two or more sets of warps and one or more sets of weft or filling yarns are interconnected to form a 2 layered cloth. The movement of threads between the layers allows complex patterns and surface textures to be created. The simplest types of double cloth is composed of two series of weft and two series of warp threads:one series of each kind forming an upper or face fabric, and the other, an under or back fabric. The purpose of the construction may be entirely utilitarian, such as the improvement of the thermal insulation value of a fabric in which a fine, smart face appearance is necessary; or it may be aesthetic in intension for which purpose the existence of two series of threads in each direction improves the capacity for producing intricate effects dependent upon either color, or structural changes.

PRINCIPLE OF CONSTRUCTION: Separate weaves are required for the two fabrics, which, however: may be either alike or different from each other. Then by interweaving the face picks, only with the face ends according to the face weave, and the backing ends, according to the backing weave, two distinct fabrics are formed one above the other. The tying or stitching together of the two fabrics forms one of the principal features of ordinary double cloth construction. The construction of double cloths may be considered under the following heads: > The relative proportions and the thicknesses of the face and backing threads. >The organization ot the selection of the face and backing weaves. > The tying or stitching together of the two fabrics so as to form one cloth.

Properties of double cloth fabric >Improved thermal properties >Warm to wear

Classification of double cloths Most of the double cloths can be classified under well defined headings and the following list gives the principal structural types with the simple schematic diagrams in the figure illustrating the basic principle of each construction. a.

Self-stitched double cloths

These fabrics contain only the two series of threads in both directions and the stitching of the face cloth layer to the back layer is accomplished by occasionally dropping a face end under a back pick or by lifting a back end over a face pick or by utilizing both of the above systems in different portions of the cloth. This type of structure and the three different methods of stitching are illustrated at the following figure –This type of structure and the three different methods of stitching are illustrated at the figure.

b.

Centre-stitched double cloths

In these fabrics a third series of threads is introduced either in the warp or in the weft direction whose entire function is to stitch the two otherwise separate layers of cloth together. The center threads lie between the face and the back cloth for the purpose of stitching oscillate at regular intervals between the face and the back thus achieving the required interlayer cohesion as shown at the following figure.


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Advance Weaving | Structures by Padma Raj Keshri - Issuu