Advance Weaving | Structures

advance weaving

qulit

sample FRONT

sample back

Actual dimension in inches: H: 10.00 , W: 09.50

NID | TEXTILE DESIGN | ADVANCE WEAVING | SPECIFICATION SHEET | SPL WARP SPL WEFT | STYLE NO. : NIDAW009

DRAFTING AND DENTING & SPEC PLAN

Actual dimension in inches: H: 10.00 , W: 09.50

NID | TEXTILE DESIGN | ADVANCE WEAVING | SPECIFICATION SHEET | SPL WARP SPL WEFT | STYLE NO. : NIDAW009

DRAFTING AND DENTING & SPEC PLAN

NID | TEXTILE DESIGN | ADVANCE WEAVING | SPECIFICATION SHEET | extra weft | STYLE NO. : NIDAW004

WARP DETAILS TYPE PATTERN RATIO 1:1 BEAM 01 no. pallette

name

MATERIAL COTTON YARN COUNT 2/20S EPI 36

WARP COLOR PATTERN

WARP LENGTH 5 MTR REED 36 DENTING 2/D

no. of ends per color in the warp

WARP PATTERN

1

WHITE

36 ENDS PER INCHES

WEFT DETAILS TYPE PATTERN COLOR MULTI

MATERIAL COTTON YARN COUNT 2/20S

PPI 38 SAMPLE SIZE 9 inches

WEFT COLOR PATTERN no. pallette name total no. of ends per color in the weft 1 red 04 16 32 32 32 52 04 32 64 32 2 yellow 32 repeat 64 100 3 black 04 32 32 32 mirror 36 of the 4 green 04 16 32 32 32 same 52 16 16 16 16 16 16 16 16 112 5 white 32 32

TOTAL WARP & WEFT TOTL ENDS OF WARP 400

TOTL ENDS OF WEFT 420

iMITATION INLAY

sample FRONT

sample back

Actual dimension in inches: H: 06.00 , W: 09.00

sample FRONT

sample back

NID | TEXTILE DESIGN | ADVANCE WEAVING | SPECIFICATION SHEET | IMITATION INLAY | STYLE NO. : NIDAW007

WARP DETAILS TYPE PATTERN RATIO 1:1 BEAM 01 no. pallette

name

MATERIAL COTTON YARN COUNT 2/20S EPI 36

WARP COLOR PATTERN

WARP LENGTH 5 MTR REED 36 DENTING 2/D

no. of ends per color in the warp

WARP PATTERN

1

WHITE

36 ENDS PER INCHES

WEFT DETAILS TYPE PATTERN COLOR MULTI

MATERIAL COTTON YARN COUNT 2/20S

PPI 38 SAMPLE SIZE 9 inches

WEFT COLOR PATTERN no. pallette name total no. of ends per color in the weft 1 red 04 16 32 32 32 52 04 32 64 32 2 yellow 32 repeat 64 100 3 black 04 32 32 32 mirror 36 of the 4 green 04 16 32 32 32 same 52 16 16 16 16 16 16 16 16 112 5 white 32 32

TOTAL WARP & WEFT TOTL ENDS OF WARP 400

TOTL ENDS OF WEFT 420

NID | TEXTILE DESIGN | ADVANCE WEAVING | SPECIFICATION SHEET | extra weft | STYLE NO. : NIDAW004

DRAFTING AND DENTING & SPEC PLAN

01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 32 22 12 02 91 81 71 61 51 41 31 21 11 01 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 42 32 22 12 02 91 81 71 61 51 41 31 21 11 01 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 42 32 22 12 02 91 81 71 61 51 41 31 21 11 01 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10

BACKED fabrics

compound weave structures WARP BACK & WEFT BACK SAMPLE

BACKED face FABRIC Backed fabrics are characteirsed by an additional series of warp or weft threads employed for the purpose of increasing their strength,weight, bulk abd warmth or any one of those properties, without affecting their surface appearance.

It seems the traditional industrial use was to use cheaper/coarser/inferios quality threads, hidden on the back of the cloth, in very practical applications such as men’s clothing.

Backed fabrics has two different faces made by one warp. Backed clothes are constructed on both the extra warp and extra weft principle., a cloth consisting in the former case of two series of weft threads and in the latter of two series of warp threads, and one series of weft threeads.

The backed fabrics employ a face and back weave alternatively on the two sides of the cloth. These weaves may be of a reversible or non-reversible nature. These types of fabrics are mainly constructed for two purposes:i) Increasing the warmth retaining qualities of the cloth ii) Secure a greater weight and substance that can be acquired in a single structure which is equally fine on the surface.

Uses of backed fabric > Upholstery fabric > Floor covering > Space dividers > Rugs

Key Points > Can only be created in twill or satin weave. > For weft face backed fabric an open reed is best suitable. > Two wefts yarn make one pick > Thickness of front and back yarn should be same. > Surface is created by floats. > In warp face one warp binds two wefts. > In weft face one weft binds two warps. > Reversible structure

PRINCIPLE OF CONSTRUCTION: The construction of backed fabrics involves the following stages, The face and back threads are marked out on design paper. They are marked out according to the order of insertion.

The face weave is inserted on the face threads only using normal convention for warp backing and reverse convention for weft backing.

The back weave is inserted on back threads only using the normal and reversed convention. A mark is placed on the back weave between two long floats of the face weave. This hides the binding marks of the back weave by covering float on the face.

In reversible structures the binding marks of the face weave should be equally well concealed on the back. This is achieved by a suitable choice of face and the back weaves.

Warp faced weaves are more suitable for warp backing and weft faced weaves for weft backing , while certain square faced weaves can be successfully applied to both structures. In order to get a well covered face in the back cloth, correct settings are very important as without sufficient density of the face threads, the binding marks of the back weave cannot be covered, no matter how clearly they are placed.

WARP BACKED FABRIC: These fabrics are produced by alternately weaving two similar or different warp faced weaves. The objective of such a technique is to get greater thickness or mass of the fabric without using coarser yarns. For constructing warp backed fabrics two systems of warp and one system of weft is required. One series of warp threads constitute the face warp and the other constitutes the back warp. Obviously two warp beams are required.

WEFT BACKED FABRICS: In these types of fabrics two series of weft threads and one series of warp threads are used. A drop box is necessary for the purpose. The purpose of introducing back weft thread is to obtain additional weight or thickness of fabric. The face weft threads are placed in the upper layer of the fabric and the back weft threads are placed in the lower layer of the fabric.

WARP BACKED FABRICS:

WEFT BACKED FABRICS:

1. Softer and more lofty handling cloth can be obtained.

This is due to weft containing less twist and being under less tension than the warp.

1. Less softer and loftier handle when compared to weft backed.

2. Requires one warp beam and drop box (2 ¥ 1) 3. Costlier to produce due to more picks/cm 4. Impossible to produce a solid appearance.

5. Lower strength warp way 6. Inferior from structural point of view 7. Low quality of backing yarn can be used in weft due to less strain on yarn 8. Drawing in is cheaper due to less number of ends

2. Requires two warp beams and no drop box.

3. Cheaper to produce owing to less picks/cm 4. A more solid appearance can be given to the cloth by the formation of stripe patterns on the underside.

5. Greater strength warp way.

6. Superior from structural point of view.

7. Low quality of yarn cannot be used in warp due to greater strain in weaving 8. Drawing in is a costlier operation since there are more number of ends.

9. Drafts are simpler

9. Drafts are usually more complicated, and a greater number of healds are required in producing similar effects

10. The standard orders of arranging the picks are – 1 face to 1 back, 2 face to 1 back, 3 face to 1 back,2 face to 2 back, 4 face to 2 back

10. The standard order of arranging the ends in warp backed cloths are – 1 face to one back, 2 face to 1 back and 3 face to 1 back.

WARP BACK & WEFT BACK STRUCTURES

drafting

front

drafting

d 4 c 3

4

b

3

2

2

a

1 1X3 twill

1

weaving order front

back front drafting

d c b a 3X1 twill

weaving order front

back

WARP BACKed SAMPLE

sample front

Actual dimension in inches: H: 09.00 , W: 07.50

sample back

Actual dimension in inches: H: 09.00 , W: 07.50

artwork front

artwork back

NID | TEXTILE DESIGN | ADVANCE WEAVING | SPECIFICATION SHEET | WARP BACKED | STYLE NO. : NIDAW001

WARP DETAILS TYPE PATTERN RATIO 1:1 BEAM 01 no. pallette 1 2 3 4 5 6

MATERIAL COTTON YARN COUNT 2/20S EPI 112

WARP LENGTH 5 MTR REED 28 DENTING 8/D

WARP COLOR PATTERN

name group no. of ends per color in the warp total BLACK A 48 48 24 24 48 48 240 NAVY B 24 88 48 24 48 88 24 344 GREEN C 24 24 88 88 88 88 24 24 448 WHITE A 48 48 24 24 48 48 240 IVORY B 24 88 48 24 48 88 24 344 BROWN C 24 24 88 88 88 88 24 24 448

WARP PATTERN

WEFT DETAILS TYPE PATTERN COLOR MULTI

MATERIAL COTTON YARN COUNT 2/20S

PPI 112 SAMPLE SIZE 9 inches

WEFT COLOR PATTERN no. pallette 1

name WHITE

no. of ends in the weft 112 ENDS PER INCHES

TOTAL WARP & WEFT TOTL ENDS OF WARP 2064

TOTL ENDS OF WEFT 1120

NID | TEXTILE DESIGN | ADVANCE WEAVING | SPECIFICATION SHEET | WARP BACKED | STYLE NO. : NIDAW001

DRAFTING AND DENTING & SPEC PLAN

a

b

c

01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24

a

b

c

WEFT BACKed SAMPLE

sample front

Actual dimension in inches: H: 09.00 , W: 08.75

sample back

Actual dimension in inches: H: 09.00 , W: 08.75

artwork front

artwork back

NID | TEXTILE DESIGN | ADVANCE WEAVING | SPECIFICATION SHEET | WEFT BACKED | STYLE NO. : NIDAW002

WARP DETAILS TYPE PATTERN RATIO 1:1 BEAM 01 no. pallette

name

MATERIAL COTTON YARN COUNT 2/20S EPI 112

WARP COLOR PATTERN

WARP LENGTH 5 MTR REED 28 DENTING 8/D

no. of ends per color in the warp

WARP PATTERN 1

WHITE

28 ENDS PER INCHES

WEFT DETAILS TYPE PATTERN COLOR MULTI

MATERIAL COTTON YARN COUNT 2/20S

PPI 32 SAMPLE SIZE 9 inches

WEFT COLOR PATTERN no. pallette name no. of ends per color in the weft 32 32 32 1 red 32 32 32 2 yellow 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 3 black 32 32

total 192 256 64

TOTAL WARP & WEFT TOTL ENDS OF WARP 288

TOTL ENDS OF WEFT 512

NID | TEXTILE DESIGN | ADVANCE WEAVING | SPECIFICATION SHEET | WEFT BACKED | STYLE NO. : NIDAW002

DRAFTING AND DENTING & SPEC PLAN

01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 09 08 07 06 05 04 03 02 01

a

b

c

d

e

extra weft

EXTRA WEFT FABRIC The extra of these fabrics is the withdrawal of the extra threads from the cloth leaves a complete ground structure.

Ththreads introduced in the weft way direction is known as EXTRA WEFT FABRIC The notable feature e extra threads does not affect the strength or durability of the base cloth.

Extra weft fabrics may be formed with one , two or more EXTRA WEFT PICS in addition to the weft ground.

Only one series of warp threads used and effect is obtained by floating of extra weft where ever desired.

Extra weft technique also involves intricate embroidery-like detail incorporated within the weave.

Extra weft fabrics have various end uses such as in Bed Covers, Furnishings, fine cloth Apparel etc.

COMPARISON BETWEEN EXTRA WARP AND EXTRA WEFT

CROSS SECTION OF AN EXTRA THREAD

EXTRA THREADS

GROUND CLOTH

extra weft

extra warp

EXTRA WARP FABRIC Extra warp is a fabric that has two warps: > One for base fabric (ground). >Second for the design (for pattern design).

Characteristics of Extra Warp Used mainly for patterning vertical designs across the length of the fabric. > Withdrawl of extra warp threads from the cloth leaves a complete ground structure under the fighure. > Does not changes the strength of the fabric. > Damage subjected to wear & tear.

Construction > Base layer- minimum two shafts/ can also use for better stability as well as for exploring structures. > Pattern layer- no shafts depending on the design.

Design possibilities in Extra Warp Stripped or spotted patterns can be achieved. > Scope of introduction of many colors > Generally found in furnishings, borders of sarees, tie cloth.

EXTRA WARP Requires additional warp beamsĹ&#x;(more than one)

EXTRA WEFT Requires only a single warp beam.

As only one type of weft is inserted the production is higher.

Production is less in comparison as more series of wefts can be used.

Striped and spotted effects can be brought out by alternately arranging the figuring threads.

Spotted effects are possible But striped effects are not effective.

Requires good and high strength of Yarns.

Such good strength is not necessary.

The effect is less prominent

The effect is more prominent as compared.

sample FRONT

sample back

Actual dimension in inches: H: 10.00 , W: 09.50

artwork front

Actual dimension in inches: H: 10.00 , W: 09.50

artwork back

NID | TEXTILE DESIGN | ADVANCE WEAVING | SPECIFICATION SHEET | extra weft | STYLE NO. : NIDAW004

WARP DETAILS TYPE PATTERN RATIO 1:1 BEAM 01 no. pallette

name

MATERIAL COTTON YARN COUNT 2/20S EPI 36

WARP COLOR PATTERN

WARP LENGTH 5 MTR REED 36 DENTING 2/D

no. of ends per color in the warp

WARP PATTERN

1

WHITE

36 ENDS PER INCHES

WEFT DETAILS TYPE PATTERN COLOR MULTI

MATERIAL COTTON YARN COUNT 2/20S

PPI 38 SAMPLE SIZE 9 inches

WEFT COLOR PATTERN no. pallette name total no. of ends per color in the weft 1 red 04 16 32 32 32 52 04 32 64 32 2 yellow 32 repeat 64 100 3 black 04 32 32 32 mirror 36 of the 4 green 04 16 32 32 32 same 52 16 16 16 16 16 16 16 16 112 5 white 32 32

TOTAL WARP & WEFT TOTL ENDS OF WARP 400

TOTL ENDS OF WEFT 420

NID | TEXTILE DESIGN | ADVANCE WEAVING | SPECIFICATION SHEET | extra weft | STYLE NO. : NIDAW004

DRAFTING AND DENTING & SPEC PLAN

01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 2

NID | TEXTILE DESIGN | ADVANCE WEAVING | SPECIFICATION SHEET | extra weft | STYLE NO. : NIDAW004

24 32 22 12 02 91 81 71 61 51 41 31 21 11 01 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 42 32 22 12 02 91 81 71 61 51 41 31 21 11 01 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 42 32 22 12 02 91 81 71 61 51 41 31 21 11 01 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10

extra warp

sample FRONT

sample back

qulit

Quilting Features: Technique of weaving double cloth with an enclosed heavy cording weft.

It is a weaving style, which is chracterized by raised parallel cords of line ribing.

These fabrics require the addition of extra yarns, called stuffer yarns.

These stuffer yarns are incorporated into the back of the fabric to give texture and added depth to the fabric design.

It consists of plain face fabric, composed of one series of warp and one series of weft thread and a set of back o stitch thread.

Continous , sunken lines runs horizontally in the cloth.

sample FRONT

Actual dimension in inches: H: 10.00 , W: 09.50

sample back

Actual dimension in inches: H: 10.00 , W: 09.50

artwork front

NID | TEXTILE DESIGN | ADVANCE WEAVING | SPECIFICATION SHEET | QUILT | STYLE NO. : NIDAW008

WARP DETAILS TYPE PATTERN RATIO 1:1 BEAM 01 no. pallette

name

MATERIAL COTTON YARN COUNT 2/20S EPI 36

WARP COLOR PATTERN

WARP LENGTH 5 MTR REED 36 DENTING 2/D

no. of ends per color in the warp

WARP PATTERN

1

WHITE

36 ENDS PER INCHES

WEFT DETAILS TYPE PATTERN COLOR MULTI

MATERIAL COTTON YARN COUNT 2/20S

PPI 38 SAMPLE SIZE 9 inches

WEFT COLOR PATTERN no. pallette name total no. of ends per color in the weft 1 red 04 16 32 32 32 52 04 32 64 32 2 yellow 32 repeat 64 100 3 black 04 32 32 32 mirror 36 of the 4 green 04 16 32 32 32 same 52 16 16 16 16 16 16 16 16 112 5 white 32 32

TOTAL WARP & WEFT TOTL ENDS OF WARP 400

TOTL ENDS OF WEFT 420

NID | TEXTILE DESIGN | ADVANCE WEAVING | SPECIFICATION SHEET | extra weft | STYLE NO. : NIDAW004

DRAFTING AND DENTING & SPEC PLAN

01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 32 22 12 02 91 81 71 61 51 41 31 21 11 01 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 42 32 22 12 02 91 81 71 61 51 41 31 21 11 01 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 42 32 22 12 02 91 81 71 61 51 41 31 21 11 01 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10

LENO

LENO Leno is a mechanism where warp ends wrap around each other to produce a twisted-lace effect. The lace is made by twisting the warp ends around each other to the left, the right or a combination.

Yarns are crossed and that one yarn of the pair is always above the other. Together they warp the particular yarn.

Fundamentals of leno structure The leno structure consists of two layers of warp ends.

The base warp is called standard ends, whereas the warp ends which twist around the standard warp are known as Skeleton .

The ratio between standard warp and skeleton warp can vary as per the need and function of the fabric.

Standard ends in any leno structure always remain depressed while the skeleton ends remain raised.

Its a mechanism where ends are not parallel but twisted partly around the other end. This mechanism is supported by a set of yarn loops. The skeleton yarn through these loops hook around the standard warp threads and twist them during weaving.

The only structure that allows manipulation of warp ends on the loom.

Leno is a structure that consists of just two liftings i.e. its a weave that can complete in two picks.

To provide a net structure, Leno would always have a dent gap depending on the reed quality.

drafting pattern The The The The

leno passes over from the 2nd shaft into the 1st. blue thread denotes the standard thread. green thread denotes the skeleton thread. skeleton thread always passes under the standard thread in case of any directional twist provided in the weave.

Function The twist makes it possible to weave open fabrics that are stable.

One can use relatively fewer warp ends than a traditionally interlaced textile.

The construction of the weave makes it stretchable fabric.

The leno structure is used in medical textiles as a construction material. its usages can also be seen in erosion control textiles.

In fashion and textile industry, it is constructed of finer material like net fabrics and fabrics used for curtains and blinds.

Leno structure cannot be manipulated after a set of dreafting pattern. Explorations can ve maxmised by using variety of materials in weft.

The structure can be combined with other structures with the method of block drafting.

sample FRONT

sample back

Actual dimension in inches: H: 7.00 , W: 10.50

NID | TEXTILE DESIGN | ADVANCE WEAVING | SPECIFICATION SHEET | leno | STYLE NO. : NIDAW006

WARP DETAILS TYPE PATTERN RATIO 1:1 BEAM 02 no. pallette

name

MATERIAL COTTON YARN COUNT 2/20S EPI 32- zig zag, 64 ogee

WARP COLOR PATTERN

WARP LENGTH 5 MTR REED 32 DENTING 2/D

no. of ends per color in the warp

WARP PATTERN

1

black

376 ENDS

WEFT DETAILS TYPE PATTERN COLOR single

MATERIAL COTTON YARN COUNT 2/20S

PPI 16- zig zag, 16 ogee SAMPLE SIZE 9 inches

WEFT COLOR PATTERN no. pallette 1

name white

total

no. of ends per color in the weft 48 ENDS

TOTAL WARP & WEFT TOTL ENDS OF WARP 376

TOTL ENDS OF WEFT 48

TERRY

TERRY A terry towel weave refers to the type of weave that is used to make a soft pile fabric that is particularly good at absorbing moisture. This fabric is known as terry fabric, terry towelling or Turkish towelling. It is constructed with uncut loops on either one or both sides of the fabric. The length of the loops determines how much fluid is absorbed by the cloth as the longer loops provide more surface area to absorb the moisture they come into contact with.

Terry fabric was traditionally a woven fabric, but it may also be warp-knitted or weft-knitted. It can be made in different thicknesses, qualities and weights. The towelling is woven on special looms that have two beams of longitudinal warp through which the filler or weft is fired laterally.

The term ‘terry’ comes from the French word ‘tirer’ meaning ‘to pull’, which refers to the pile loops which were pulled out by hand to make the traditional absorbent Turkish toweling.

PROPERTIES AND APPLICATIONS > Absorbent > Heart Insulation > Crease Resistant >Single Sided terry is used for the production of mats, ladies overcoats, dressing gowns etc. > The loops may be formed on one side only or on both sides of the cloth, thus producing single sided and double sided structure respectively.

sample FRONT

sample back

Actual dimension in inches: H: 06.00 , W: 11.00

NID | TEXTILE DESIGN | ADVANCE WEAVING | SPECIFICATION SHEET | TERRY | STYLE NO. : NIDAW005

WARP DETAILS TYPE PATTERN RATIO 1:1 BEAM 02 no. pallette 1

name WHITE

MATERIAL VISCOSE W1 & COTTON W2 YARN COUNT 2/20S EPI 34

WARP LENGTH 5 MTR REED 36 DENTING 2/D

WARP COLOR PATTERN-01 no. of ends per color in the weft 16 400

WARP COLOR PATTERN-02

no. pallette name no. of ends per color in the weft 1 YELLOW 50 2 PURPLE 50 3 YELLOW 50 4 PINK 50 5 BLUE 50 6 PINK 50 7 PURPLE 50 8 PINK 50

32

total 432

16 32

total 50 50 50 50 50 50 50 50 TOTAL 832

PILE

WARP PATTERN

WEFT DETAILS TYPE PATTERN COLOR SINGLE

MATERIAL COTTON YARN COUNT 2/20S

PPI 40 SAMPLE SIZE 6 inches

WEFT COLOR PATTERN no. pallette 1

name WHITE

no. of ends per color in the wEFT 40 ENDS PER INCHES

TOTAL WARP & WEFT TOTL ENDS OF WARP 832

TOTL ENDS OF WEFT 80

NID | TEXTILE DESIGN | ADVANCE WEAVING | SPECIFICATION SHEET | TERRY | STYLE NO. : NIDAW005

DRAFTING AND DENTING & SPEC PLAN

DOUBLE CLOTH

DOUBLE CLOTH FABRIC Double CLoth or (double weave) is a kind of woven textile in which two or more sets of warps and one or more sets of weft or filling yarns are interconnected to form a 2 layered cloth. The movement of threads between the layers allows complex patterns and surface textures to be created. The simplest types of double cloth is composed of two series of weft and two series of warp threads:one series of each kind forming an upper or face fabric, and the other, an under or back fabric.

The purpose of the construction may be entirely utilitarian, such as the improvement of the thermal insulation value of a fabric in which a fine, smart face appearance is necessary; or it may be aesthetic in intension for which purpose the existence of two series of threads in each direction improves the capacity for producing intricate effects dependent upon either color, or structural changes.

PRINCIPLE OF CONSTRUCTION: Separate weaves are required for the two fabrics, which, however: may be either alike or different from each other.

Then by interweaving the face picks, only with the face ends according to the face weave, and the backing ends, according to the backing weave, two distinct fabrics are formed one above the other. The tying or stitching together of the two fabrics forms one of the principal features of ordinary double cloth construction.

The construction of double cloths may be considered under the following heads: > The relative proportions and the thicknesses of the face and backing threads. >The organization ot the selection of the face and backing weaves. > The tying or stitching together of the two fabrics so as to form one cloth.

Properties of double cloth fabric >Improved thermal properties >Warm to wear

Classification of double cloths Most of the double cloths can be classified under well defined headings and the following list gives the principal structural types with the simple schematic diagrams in the figure illustrating the basic principle of each construction. a.

Self-stitched double cloths

These fabrics contain only the two series of threads in both directions and the stitching of the face cloth layer to the back layer is accomplished by occasionally dropping a face end under a back pick or by lifting a back end over a face pick or by utilizing both of the above systems in different portions of the cloth. This type of structure and the three different methods of stitching are illustrated at the following figure –This type of structure and the three different methods of stitching are illustrated at the figure.

b.

Centre-stitched double cloths

In these fabrics a third series of threads is introduced either in the warp or in the weft direction whose entire function is to stitch the two otherwise separate layers of cloth together. The center threads lie between the face and the back cloth for the purpose of stitching oscillate at regular intervals between the face and the back thus achieving the required interlayer cohesion as shown at the following figure.

In these fabrics a third series of threads is introduced either in the warp or in the weft direction whose entire function is to stitch the two otherwise separate layers of cloth together.

c.

Double cloths stitched by thread interchange

These structures are similar to the first category in as much as they do not contain an additional series of stitching threads. However, they are distinguished from the self stitched fabrics by the fact that the stitching of the face and the back cloth is achieved by frequent and continuous interchange of some thread elements between the two cloth layers.

Thus, in some portions of the cloth the face ends may be made to inter-weave with the back picks and the back ends with the face picks as illustrated schematically at the following figure. The point at which the threads interchange represents the stitch points.These structures are similar to the first category in as much as they do not contain an additional series of stitching threads.

d.

Double cloth stitched by cloth interchange

In this class of constructions the principle of the interchange is taken one stage further than in the third category and complete cloth layers are made to change places as shown at the following figure. As stitching between the two fabrics occurs only at the point of cloth interchange the degree of cohesion in this type of cloth depends on the frequency of the interchange.In this class of constructions the principle of the interchange is taken one stage further than in the third category and complete cloth layers are made to change places as shown at the figure.

e.

Alternate single-ply and double-ply constructions

In some fabrics the constituent thread components are occasionally merged together into a heavily set single cloth and occasionally are separated into distinct layers to form figure areas of open double cloth on the firm single cloth ground.

Usually, the effect depends upon a degree of distortion as the crammed single cloth areas tend to spread out, thus affecting the appearance of the double cloth ‘pockets’. A cloth of this type is shown at the following figure.

End uses of Stitched double cloth Double cloths are used as different types of decorative cloth such as – sofa cover, furnishing cloth, curtain fabric, bed cover, pillow cover and other home textiles. It is also used for the production of winter garments, quilts, belts, different types of industrial fabrics etc.

sample FRONT

Actual dimension in inches: H: 09.50 , W: 10.50

sample back

Actual dimension in inches: H: 09.50 , W: 10.50

artwork front

artwork back

NID | TEXTILE DESIGN | ADVANCE WEAVING | SPECIFICATION SHEET | DOUBLE CLOTH | STYLE NO. : NIDAW003

WARP DETAILS TYPE PATTERN RATIO 1:1 BEAM 01 no. pallette 1 2 3 4 1 2 3 4

MATERIAL COTTON YARN COUNT 2/20S EPI 72

WARP LENGTH 5 MTR REED 36 DENTING 9/D

WARP COLOR PATTERN

name group no. of ends per color in the warp BROWN A 152 152 WHITE B 28 28 28 28 RED C 76 76 BLUE D 228 BROWN A 152 152 WHITE B 28 28 28 28 RED C 76 76 BLUE D 228

EVEN EVEN EVEN EVEN ODD ODD ODD ODD

WARP PATTERN

WEFT DETAILS TYPE PATTERN COLOR SINGLE

MATERIAL COTTON YARN COUNT 2/20S

PPI 76 SAMPLE SIZE 9.5 inches

WEFT COLOR PATTERN no. pallette 1

name BLUE

no. of ends in the weft 76 ENDS PER INCHES

TOTAL WARP & WEFT TOTL ENDS OF WARP 800

TOTL ENDS OF WEFT 780

total 304 112 152 228 304 112 152 228

NID | TEXTILE DESIGN | ADVANCE WEAVING | SPECIFICATION SHEET | DOUBLE CLOTH | STYLE NO. : NIDAW003

DRAFTING AND DENTING & SPEC PLAN

01 02 03 04

01 02 03 04 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12

01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24

13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24

21 22 23 24 21 22 23 24 21 22 23 24

PAdma Raj Keshri National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad | M.Design | Textile Design | 2015-2017 National Institute of Fashion Technology, Bangalore | B.Design | Knitwear Design | 2009-2013 Mob: +91-9036939773 | Email:padmaraj.2007@gmail.com | Portfolio: www.behance.net/prk