Christmas Special
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CREPEVINE
Here today, gone tamale...
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JOIN US FOR THE HOLIDAYS!
Sonoma Latina’s tamales are weapons of masa deliciousness!
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by B r o o ke J a c k s o n
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’m up to my elbows in masa—soft, are what make holiday tamales unique. sticky and slightly warm, kneading Tamayo says his mother-in-law uses the and mixing the bowlful of dough broth from the meat ďŹ lling for the liquid and waiting to hear the telltale pop of in the masa, imparting a more “porkyâ€? air bubbles signifying it is ready. Masa avor. In addition to the distinctive prepis one of the key ingredients in tamales, arations that vary from one family to the and I’m getting a crash course in how to next, the types of ďŹ llings and sauces are make them from Mike Tamayo, owner of vast. From sweet tamales with cinnamon, Sonoma Latina Grill in Novato. pineapple and raisins to chicken-mole Latino families all around Marin get ďŹ lled to simple bean-and-cheese stufďŹ ng, together this time of tamales are as diverse year for a “Tamaleada,â€? as the people who eat an assembly-line style them. Masa for the masses party where tamales Most agree, howGo to sonomalatinagrill.com for a for Christmas and New ever, that the traditional recipe for masa. Masa preparada for tamales is Years are made. It’s not variety for Christmas available at Azteca Market, 802 Fourth just about the process of and New Year’s is ďŹ lled Street, San Rafael and Mi Pueblo Food putting the tamales towith pork and served Center, 330 Bellam, San Rafael. gether, though; this is the with red chili sauce. The Call your local Mexican market to see time when families from masa is made with pure if tamale masa is carried there. Mexico and other Latin lard and corn husks enAmerican countries celrobe the outside, holdebrate the traditions of ing everything together their culture and share these customs during the hour-and-a-half of steaming. with the younger generations. Many folks order their holiday tamales I have longed to be invited to a tamale- already made. Sonoma Latina Grill made making party, but it hasn’t happened. about 500 last year, just for Christmastime. Learning to make all the components Other families buy the masa premade then do the assembly from a master like (called masa preparada), carnitas and red Tamayo would enable me to throw my sauce and then assemble and steam the own Tamaleada. And a party is what it tamales together for their party. takes to put these babies together—as Even with purchased components, Tamayo told me numerous times, “Makhowever, putting the tamales together is ing tamales takes a long time.â€? time-consuming and requires a steadfast The secrets of each family’s recipe technique. After I had mixed up the 19 >
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PHOTOS BY JASON WALSH
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Another ďŹ ne masa you’ve gotten us into! Tamales are rolling off the line in the Sonoma Latina Grill kitchen. 18 PACIFIC SUN DECEMBER 23 - DECEMBER 29, 2011