Preword
SundayTable
MyNightwithLuigi
Currently:InFashion
Foodindrawings-interviewwithSophieGlover
VinesintheVeins
FromHeinzCreamofTomatotoHomemadeTomYum
Interview:ASeatattheTablewithAnnafromCelentano’s
FromRoottoTable
Review-Banh-MiandTea
©DavidJMcMillan
Growingup,Ialwaysdreamedoftheromanticnotionofa family meal. You know the scene— a large, welcoming table,withneatlyarrangedplacemats,aknifeandforkon eithersideoftheplate.ThiswassomethingIsawinmovies and read about in books, but it wasn’t until my late teens thatIactuallyexperienceditforthefirsttime.
Iremembersittingatalong,sturdywoodentablethatcould easilyfitatleasttenpeople.Eachseatwassetwithaplace mat, a plate, two glasses, and a pair of cutlery. I was so fascinated by it, heart ringing of happiness, feeling somethingspecialaboutaplacemat.Fromthatmomenton, I’veneversetatablewithoutone.
To me, family meals whether shared with loved ones, friends, or people who feel like family — define what it meanstotrulyenjoyhome-cookedfood.It’snotjustabout themealitself,butthepeoplegatheredaroundthetable.In those moments, the quality of the food seems almost secondary; it’s the conversations, the laughter, and the stories that matter most. I’ve made memories around a tablefilledwithbothperfectlycookeddishesandless-thanperfect meals, and in both cases, the experience has been unforgettable. It’s always about the connections, the life thatunfoldsoversharedbites,andthewarmthofthoseyou holddear.
So, here’s to celebrating that. To celebrating the joy of greatdishes,deepconversations,andthesimplepleasureof spending time eating and drinking with those who matter most.
withlove,
WRITTEN BY REGINA ARNAU MARTINEZ
Unless you’re in the hospitality industry, unemployed or retired, every day of the week has an implied role
Mondays, the start of the week, frowned upon by most, since you’re riding the last of that weekend high, when suddenly, it all sinks in.
Tuesday, let me quote 90% of the population, “I couldn’t care less”
HUMP DAY! In true Wednesday fashion, it usually comes with the middle child effect, it’ll be probably be ignored Thursday, awe yes, the faint smell of freedom! Some people will have one foot out the door Friday, it usually goes two ways. When you think you’re ready to party, but you’re mostly tired from waiting for Friday to arrive or total blackout after clocking out
Saturday, you didn’t wake up extremely hangover at 2pm and won’t be able to move from bed? Congrats, you’ve gain a full day of social activities
Precious Sunday A little anxiety inducing, but what some people might crown as the most wholesome day.
As an overall Latino perspective, Sunday were strictly reserved to have a meal with one’s family. Oh, you better have a good excuse for not being available or even late Rescuing a dog stuck in the train tracks?
Saving orphan children from a building on fire? That wouldn’t be good enough to get you out of a chancla whooping.
In my family, a Sunday started with church at 9am It wasn’t always mandatory, but being the youngest of three, meant having to go everywhere with my mom. Early mass, would mean the good choir was on (made it less boring) but in in rare occasions, we would oversleep and rush to the 11am service, aka the not so good choir, aka, boring It also meant that we would be behind schedule picking up the Rotisserie Chicken from a popular spot called Pollo Pepe near my grandmas house If you didn’t get there early enough, they would sold out of their best seller sides, Cold Macaroni Salad, Coleslaw with creamy dressing, Red Rice with Veggies, Spicy Refried Beans, or god forbade, their homemade Salsas
After experiencing what I would compare to a Black Friday type of fight for the last Potato Salad with another family, and manipulating our way into an extra Agua de Jamaica from the manager, we would meet up at my grandmas like every end of the weekend.
We would ring the doorbell until she opened the door, which would annoy, but equally get a giggle or two out of her. We kissed her on the cheek, and ran straight to the fridge for the coldest Coca Cola, before my siblings got to them. That followed up by nibbling on some warm tortillas and chips that came with the chicken. It becomes a routine, a haven for some, to gather your thoughts and reflect back from a busy week on a table full of your family members. Even Jesus’s apostles would gather on Sundays, to watch him “break bread”. There would be more disagreeing than agreeing, some praises, and even tears, like having a Thanksgiving family fight once a week, which for some sounds like their idea of hell.
But in-due-course, kids and adults alike grow old, get busier, maybe loose interest or move abroad. With a blink of an eye, you unawarely had your last Sunday meal with your grandads bad jokes, or your after meal naps by your mom’s bed.
When the time comes, hopefully for some of you, to move out of your childhood homes, there will be an unforeseen spotlight towards one matter. The shrinking line between liberating independence, and paralysing loneliness.
One of the most dreaded times I had while being a fresh, new immigrant in Scotland, was the arrival of Sundays.
I spent my first two years in Glasgow student halls, sharing kitchen with four other students, who preferred staying in their 13.2m² bedrooms, than finding a shared interest with each other.
For a time though, I felt like an improvement had been made, when I went from spending most Sundays hangover in bed, with my usual choice of takeaway (Spicy Mapo Tofu, Salt and Chilli Chips and a cold, cold Coca Cola) to go walking the exact same route as as the previous weekend. Similarly to checking the fridge over and over again hoping something new will magically appear.
In summary, I would spend most weekends without speaking to another human, unless I was FaceTiming my mom or sister… again.
It became a standard regimen before I started my first job and eventually, University. New friends, flats and roommates came, which I made sure shared AT LEAST, one topic of interest with me. And with that came a busier weekend agenda.
“NELLE, WITH A CUP OF TEA IN ONE HAND AND A SQUARE SAUSAGE ROLL (WITH KETCHUP) IN THE OTHER, AND ME, WITH A CUP OF BLACK COFFEE AND A DOUBLE TATTIE SCONE ROLL (WITH BROWN SAUCE) IN THE OTHER.”
I can still remember the first time I felt that Sunday blues lift off my chest, and was fulfilled with a once familiar feeling. I had just started spending time with my new uni friend Nelle, whom after 6 years I still call one of my closest friend. We woke up bright and early, to go to the popular Barras Market in the East of Glasgow. We strolled around, what felt like endless corridors, of second hand gems and probably stolen goods. Nelle, with a cup of tea in one hand and a square sausage roll (with ketchup) in the other, and me, with a cup of black coffee and a double tattie scone roll (with brown sauce) in the other.
We would end up walking our way back home after failing to bargain a good deal and getting abruptly rained on. But with a sore belly from laughing and a dry mouth from chatting, it would make an hour long walk feel like minutes.
Occasionally, on some weekends, I would convince Nelle into getting a Nando’s with me. I would say the motive was that neither of us could make, nor afford a typical Sunday Roast. But deep down, the real reason would be, it was the closest taste I had to a Pollo Pepe Rotisserie Chicken.
Sadly, no homemade salsas, extra tortillas, or family fights. But somehow it started feeling like the same cathartic experience, just different company. What once felt like a dreaded day in the calendar, turned into a million of new possibilities.
If the weather was good we would sit in a secluded bench in Kelvingrove Park and people watch. If I had gotten payed that week, I would sit in my favourite pub, The Sparkle Horse, and chat with the bar staff, or if my boyfriend and I coincided, we would have leftovers on the sofa while watching a history documentary.
Family, friends, alone, with a lover or your favourite bartender, everyone has their own version and ever-changing recipe on how to spend a Sunday.
WRITTENBYISOBELSALAMON
7:30pm on a breezy September evening in Conegliano, mosquitoes viciously destroy my legs. Thirty minutes have passed since Luigi said he'd pick me up and there's no one around. I don't have his number; so I wait, tired, impossibly itchy, and digestively strained from three days of dining overload Just hours earlier, it became clear my two fellow press trip companions were going home. Their past few days' reference to "our last day" was true for them. I'd presumed their minds were elsewhere, but at breakfast, when speaking to the day ahead, I realised I was continuing on for a final visit and formal dinner... solo. The PR team were also leaving. Despite mixed emotions, our day proceeded in a blur a vineyard visit, tour and tasting lunch, where I was happily introduced to Frico a Friulian staple, seeing potatoes combined with the DOP protected Montasio, a cheese traditionally crafted by monks using milk from Alpinegrazing cows.
It was a bomb of a dish and the food and wine kept flowing, ending with a whipped lemon and vodka gelato served via champagne flute. I wondered how I'd manage another 7 courses in just a few hours. Slightly buzzed, we drove for an hour before finding my new car waiting with blinkers on pulled off to the side of the road, making it one of the odder transfer experiences I'd had. Farewell hugs were exchanged, and I moved into my new car with Luigi, entering polite chat while desperately trying to stave off sleep
On arrival we did the mandatory winery tour as our conversation turned brighter; luxury cars, fast bikes and art all being discussed. Luigi was clearly a man of culture. Even the tanks were works of art. And the tasting was informative, although on spying a couple of experimental bottles I tried to hint we taste them, but alas no bites So with a quick freshen up I was ready for the night ahead Charged with reading about the restaurant's seasonal and regional approach - where old meets newcombining creativity, instinct and technique I was sold.
"I'm sorry I'm late," Luigi cried on arrival, perched beside the fanciest car I'd seen in a while Low lying, with plush tan leather seats this car was a work of art and Luigi smiled, "I brought it for you," explaining how delighted he was by our car chat My stomach did an excitable flip Taking the scenic route, we drive past two glorious lakes with the impossibly blue Lago di Santa Croce being a haven for "windsurfers in the Summer " Falling slightly in love with the landscape, Luigi speaks of his wife Incredibly stylish and full of charm, he clearly adores her, noting she's "partying with friends tonight " Their friendship group sounds like something from a movie, sharing decades of life, via holidays and more- and now, despite living all over the territory, they meet up when they can, to eat, drink and party
Pulling up to the restaurant, its red Michelin plate proudly beams on entry, and its chic, minimalist interior follows, screaming class I adore fine dining, and even more so artistically designed spaces Here, they are fans of clean angles, fine plating and a very cool chair logo Art dots the walls and the overtly stylish bathroom is a treat to enter The staff welcome us with genuine warmth it's clear Luigi is important to them "We're like a family," he tells me as we're presented with a playful amuse bouche featuring a beetroot gelato that I could eat for days Luigi unabashedly reveals a further surprise his two experimental wines I'd been eyeing Pluck and Würm for us to share
As we progress through the courses, stories and emotions intertwine with each dish Everything is purposeful here the smoked Alpago trout, caught fresh from their lake, presents dramatically with a green apple and wild garlic broth pooling around the fish Next is a 'lessons in texture' risotto juicy, crunchy and salty! Marinated watermelon shouldn't work in a risotto, and yet it does Oyster and porcini combine in a kaleidoscope of flavours, with fennel, and lemongrass standing out Luigi pops his Pluck - Blanc de Noirs as we learn about the locally foraged mushrooms, and this is one salivating worthy concoction
The 100% Pinot Noir offers a journey through ginger dried ginger, candied ginger, ground ginger and umami with dark miso, lemongrass and buttery brioche Intriguingly complex and begging for big flavour pairings; this leftfield risotto is a perfect match Luigi follows with his 'masterpiece' a wine named "Würm" one spending an astonishing 150 months on lees "I created this when I became a father," he confesses "I was spending a lot of time in the cellar then " He wasn't trying to make something different, but rather inspired by bottles he'd tasted around the world This was the fourth vintage ever made 1995, 2003, 2008, and 2020
The first sip left me speechless It was perfect Proudly beaming, Luigi tells me he's been told it tastes like Krug An impossible feat for the Conegliano region The reference wasn't lost on me drinking it offers true pleasure; layers of vanilla, caramel apples and ripe yellow plum, dance alongside toast and a smattering of spice It proved a fine match for two courses namely the restaurants celebrated dish Agnello d'Alpago, a Slow Food presidium This lamb represents the apex of their philosophy local, sustainable, and deeply connected to tradition Luigi explains it should be enjoyed in a zigzag pattern of consumption, with all parts of the lamb represented on the plate ”This is my child” Luigi whispers, eyes glistening while looking at his wine
Something shifts between us. It had been an emotional period for me of late I'd lost a family member just before the trip, and I wasn't able to travel for the funeral I felt my eyes well up. I wasn't prepared for this depth of connection over food and wine, yet found myself wholly present in the moment. We exchanged a look of understanding, one transcending words this had become a journey through Luigi's life, and somehow, a part of mine. As the seven courses concluded, we lingered over espressos and the finest chocolate "Would you like to go to the party?" he asked, referring to his wife and their friends. It was already 11pm, and he did start harvest the next day but what kind of a question was that?! Of course. And I'm glad we did. The gathering was vibrant and although almost no one spoke English, it hardly mattered. We understood each other via Champagne sips and dancing to the DJ's energetic beats until 3am OM
In Fashion is a reoccurring section, where we look into the current food trend that the people are currently looking at. Just like things change in the fast fashion stores, food trends come and go as fast as the next video on your Instagram reel.
It might have been quietly bubbling away in the background for years, but by 2023, tinned fish officially made the leap from forgotten pantry item to the height of food fashion. Maybe it started in lockdown—yes,thatword(arewecollectivelyokay talking about it yet?) — when we all started excavatingthedeepestcornersofourcupboardsand unearthed those long-lost tins of sardines and anchovies. Suddenly, preserved seafood didn’t seem sogrim.Infact,itbecame…kindofchic.
The real turning point? When places like Conservas Nudista in Madrid or Sol e Pesca in Lisbon started drawingcrowdsnotdespiteservingfoodfromacan —butbecauseofit.Thesecharmingbarsmadethe humble tin not just acceptable, but desirable. The kind of place you'd plan a trip around. And really, what’s not to love? Sit in a cozy, neon-lit corner of Barcelona, pop open a beautifully designed tin of smokedmusselsormackerelinoliveoil,andpairit with a crisp glass of wine — and suddenly, you’re livingthegoodlife.
Tinned fish has gone from emergency stash to elevated snack. It's the quiet hero of the no-kitchen kitchen,provingthatyoudon’tneedaroaringstove or a twenty-step recipe to enjoy something deeply satisfying.
Andhere’safunfact:inPortugalandSpain,canned seafood has long been considered a delicacy, not a backup plan. Some tins are aged like fine wine, and connoisseurswilltellyouthatathree-year-oldcanof sardineshasaflavorthat’sricher,morecomplex.In fact, Portugal even has a National Canned Fish Day (celebratedonNovember28th,ifyou'rewondering).
What we’re really witnessing is the rise of the conservaculture—amovementrootedintradition, elevated by design, and celebrated with great wine. There's something undeniably romantic (and practical!) about a meal that comes perfectly portioned, shelf-stable, and sustainably sourced especiallywhenittastesthisgood.
Olives,bread,asplashofwine,andyes—tinnedfish — may just be the most simple, most elegant meal youcanhave.Somaybeit’snotjustatrend.Maybe it’sheretostay.
400gspaghetti
1tbspoliveoil
2garliccloves chilliflakes
canofchoppedtomatoes
2cansofsardines
100gpitted,choppedblackolives
3tbspcapers
handfulofchoppedparsley
Bringalargepotofsaltedwatertoaboiland cook the spaghetti. While that’s happening, getstartedonthesauce.Heattheoliveoilina medium-sizedpan,thengentlycookthegarlic for about a minute until fragrant. Stir in the chilliflakes,tinnedtomatoes,andsardines break the fish up a bit with a wooden spoon asyougo.Leteverythingbubbletogetherfor 2–3 minutes, then toss in the olives, capers, andmostofthechoppedparsley.Giveitalla goodstirtobringtheflavourstogether.
Drain the pasta — but save a couple of spoonfuls of the starchy water. Add the spaghettistraightintothepanwiththesauce and toss everything together until it’s beautifully coated. If the sauce feels a bit thick,loosenitwithasplash ofthereserved pasta water. Dish it up and finish with a sprinkleoftheremainingparsley.
Sophie Glover paints and draws, from vases full of flowers to chefs in the kitchen preparing food. She illustrates the pages between the covers of Vogue to the wine labels of TROUPE.
Sophie Glover makes paintings, drawings and jewellery. Based in South East London, she has a unique way to create both calmness and chaos on paper. Being recognised by some of the leading magazines and fashion brands in the industry, her drawings have been a form of storytelling at it’s own.
Sophie told us about her practice, her relationship with cooking and how she found the beauty in peeled vegetables.
Your work has a deep connection to food and dining—what initially sparked your interest in exploring these themes in your art?
Food has different meanings and rhythms in the same way art does and so I think that connection has always been there for me I started making drawings in artist’s studios about a decade ago, capturing the flurry and activity of the making process. Soon after I turned this lense to kitchens - the stories behind the food feeling incredibly similar to those behind art
People often associate food with culture, community, and memory. How do you see your practice related to that, and what does food symbolise for you within that context?
The preparation of food is a ubiquitous ritual and I hope my drawings act as a visually similar lens through which to view all that it means to people
Outside of your art, how does food influence or shape your daily life?
The most important thing to me about food is the ability for it to bring people together; having friends around my kitchen table is one of my favourite things in life We often cook meals to mark the seasons. For example, each October I bake a pie to celebrate the Harvest Moon. We write things to let go off on slips of paper and burn them as we eat the pie to put the Summer to bed
When choosing the foods or dining moments to feature in your art, what elements do you consider most important?
I think this comes back to storytelling again, the moments I choose to capture are those of the making of the food; the process behind the scenes, with all those memories that chef brings to the table I have found that spending hours with someone, quietly drawing them while they make and create, facilitates conversation and conversation facilitates storytelling. I am interested to be in that space, where stories of food are being told.
What is it about food that inspires you in your practice?
d feel it’s an intrinsic way of
If your creative process were translated into a meal, what would it be?
When it comes to illustrating food, how do you balance the visual appeal with the emotional or narrative aspects you want to convey?
I make my illustrations from life in the kitchens Little traces and marks of early parts of the illustration can be seen hidden under the final drawing This happens because I'm drawing rapidly, trying to capture everything, and then suddenly I'll see moments of emotion or narrative, and those are the ones I choose to solidify So it's through the process of making my illustrations that this balance emerges.
Do you find any similarities between the way you approach art and cooking a meal?
I think there is a dichotomy in both between the personal nature of the creativity, and the fact that they are made to be consumed by others I don't think either could be made solely for others, and yet they exist for that sake
Do you have a go-to ingredient or dish that you return to often for inspiration?
I love drawing chefs preparing potatoes. There is something very nostalgic and hearty about the process, and the potatoes themselves become little sculptures as they're peeled
Something fast that begins in chaos and becomes clear as it materialises. I’m imagining a chef with all the hobs on, whisking and chopping and pouring all at once Noone (including themselves) quite knows whats happening, and then suddenly it all makes sense
What particular meal or dining experience has altered your perspective or approach to your work?
About a decade ago, I went to Paris to draw artists in their studios and workshops In Micheal Woolworth’s printmaking atelier, at around midday, after a studious morning on the huge lithography presses one of Micheal’s assistant printmakers disappeared to a back corner to cook And at 12 30 lunch began; served on a long wooden table amid a riot of colourful Jim Dine editions that stood splendidly against the walls A salad to start followed by seafood pasta served with small glass of red wine, then an apple tart brought from someone’s mother that morning in Normandy, coffee and cigarettes all round The lunch table served as a setting for creative ideas to be hashed out and worried through. After two hours work began again with new solutions and ideas in tow - it was glorious and Micheal assured me they did it every day. This was the moment I realised I wanted to draw people making food as well as art
FAVOURITE SNACK
95% chocolate with a Medjool date squished on top of it with a cup of Kukicha tea
FAVOURITE DRINK
Vodka Martini
FAVOURITE SANDWICH BLT
FAVOURITE THING TO EAT IN THE STUDIO
Salad Niçoise (preparation being the ultimate distraction)
FAVOURITE SPICE
Coriander Seeds (most enamoured but not most essential)
YOU CAN ALWAYS FIND IN MY FRIDGE
Goat’s Butter
written by Gavin Suttie
As Greek wine enjoys a well-earned spotlight on the international stage, one woman is weaving family tradition with a modern, experimental flair
Meet Chloi Chatzivaryti
In the small town of Goumenissa, nestled in the northwestern reaches of Greece, sits Domaine Chatzivaritis, a family-run winery now helmed by the dynamic Chloi Chatzivaryti Goumenissa is a unique pocket of Greek winemaking five of its six wineries are family-owned, with four operated by women of the second generation But the Chatzivaryti’s story doesn’t follow a traditional script This isn’t a fifth-generation estate where winemaking was always the family’s lifeblood though wine has long been a passion in the Chatzivaryti household.
In 1984, Chloi’s parents began producing wine simply for family and friends “They did it out of pure love and joy about wine, with no professional views on it,” says Chloi Their talent became quickly apparent By 1993, her father took the plunge, planting organic vineyards and laying plans for their own winery In 2005, Domaine Chatzivaritis was born, with the first official vintage released in 2007
Chloi’s father laid the groundwork organically farmed vines and a strong ethos of environmental respect. “My father set the ethos of organic viticulture in an effort to respect the environment and the people Me, as a second generation, I am taking it further by applying biodynamic practices and producing wines with minimal interventions Our goal is to offer true and honest wines able to express our region and ourselves,” she explains.
The wines Chloi crafts today are far cry from the wines that her father produced in the early 2010’s, and should be viewed as the perfect combination of learning from both family and peers After earning a degree in Agricultural Engineering in Greece, she pursued a Master's in Oenology and Viticulture in France “in order to travel,” she told me A self-described “reactive child,” she loved the idea of wine, but not being told what to do Her passion truly ignited after working harvests in France, New Zealand, Argentina, Chile, and studying further in Portugal. Only then was it that Chloi “fell in love with wine”, and returned to Greece
“When I came back to my family winery, I was full of ideas and a will to create I would say that my travels and wine experiences abroad shaped me more as a winemaker, but my family affected my personality which is inevitably shown in my wines ”
Her winemaking journey has been anything but linear She has worked with a diverse range of producers: from the grandeur of Chateau Margaux in Bordeaux and the large-scale Brancott Estate in New Zealand, to the natural, low-intervention philosophy of Domaine Leon Barral in Faugères It was the latter that inspired her to return home and take the family winery to the next level “I was very impressed by their love for the vines, the way they took care of them and the level of autonomy they were able to reach in this small village.”
Drink it…
With your friends, on a picnic blanket, when the mercury reaches 25 degrees, out of little paper cups
WHITE Drink it…
On a midweek night during a hard week, when you really need a glass of something delicious with dinner
Today, Chloi’s wines are a true liquid representation of the person that made the wines There is a fine line of balance between the playful and the serious Wines that are equally at home starred lis Her fresh glass frien introductio
The MiNi eleven 'M skin-conta contact; a old Frenc naturally sulphur.
'Spin' sho Negoska easily be Spain M her fathe Xinoma r
resents modern Greece: forwarded in heritage And she’s only getting my winemaking as an ever-evolving hat makes it interesting. After every f time thinking about what can be only get one chance per year I love emaking techniques and trying out es to mind I am very lucky to have a with me who also enjoy this creativity d.
loi leading the charge, Greece is no it’s a full-blown movement
and you are showing off your great taste in wine
oon, in a big fancy wine glass, when it s a little cold outside, and there is something roasting in the oven
Words are by Katya Anderson
ArtIsbyCarolBurns
As I sit on the couch of the living room, making notes on my phone of ideas to include in this article, I am hopelessly distracted by the smell coming from the stove area There stands Babulia, my Russian grandmother, cooking up something irresistible From the side I probably look like a meerkat – neck outstretched, eyes scanning, trying to gauge how many more minutes wait it is until I can sink my teeth into freshly fried chicken kotlety. These mini burgeresque patties are one of the most traditional dishes from back home, often served with a side of mashed potatoes, and I swear they are magical – having a bad day? All worries have melted away. Having a good day? A few extra rays of sunshine have been added. But let me rewind a bit
I’m very fortunate to be a product of two different, yet not dissimilar, cultures Mum was born in Moscow and Dad in Glasgow, two cities thousands of kilometres apart, sitting on the 55 latitude When they married, Mum couldn’t boil an egg. When she first came to the UK in the mid-90s with a baby version of me, one of her biggest joys was going to the supermarkets to experience the myriad of dishes tucked away on the shelves. Heinz soup. Ready-made cottage pie. Jars of pesto. Coming from a country that had just recently emerged from the iron curtain, the diversity of flavours and availability of options was mind- blowing – has everyone seen the photos of kilometre-long queues from Moscow when the first McDonalds opened in the 90s? People didn’t even know what the food was going to be, but it didn’t matter It was new, and it was freedom
Fast forward to the present, if you were to ask anyone who has been in Mum’s company a phrase to describe her, I guarantee you one of the top ones would be ‘She is a fantastic cook’ And they are absolutely right Her culinary repertoire is as broad as it is deep – you could quite literally travel the world with her dishes: Uzbek plov, Sicilian meatballs, Moroccan tagines, French coq au vin, Thai tom yum, Georgian khinkali The list goes on
All served with flair, and oh so much love So how did she go from zero to hero in the kitchen?
Growing up in the USSR, ingredients were limited and flavours were sparse I love the food that Babulia makes, yet objectively it is quite simple –she always follows the same few recipes, her favourite spice is dill (some stereotypes can be true), and there are rarely more than 5-7 ingredients to a dish.
It’s not varied, but everything made is done well and again, with the most important ingredient, forgive the cheese – love My grandfather was a marine physicist who had the rare opportunity in those times to travel outside of the country for work, and in these expeditions he would pick up unusual herbs and spices, without even knowing what they were, then quite literally experimented with them in the kitchen back home
He had a remarkable instinct for flavour, and his intuition seldom led him astray in what food would pair well with which of his new found delicacies Regrettably, I only learned of this after he passed away a few years back, but it is clear as day that this flair did not leave with him, but instead continued and grew in time within Mum.
“Growing up in the USSR, ingredients were limited and flavours were sparse. I love the food that Babulia makes, yet objectively it is quite simple. “
This talent, however, does come with a caveat – whenever you ask Mum ‘What did you put in this?’ you will not get more of an answer than some of the most obvious ingredients And she doesn’t do it for secretive reasons, but because she processes food on such a sensory level, that yes, she may gain inspiration from a dish, but will always in the heat of the moment add a dash of this and sprinkle of that to make it uniquely hers Think Monet displaying his ‘Impression: Sunrise’ painting from which the art movement took its name
This is how I think of Mum’s cooking- her own unique impressions. And although she was not able to teach me how she cooks, this love did find its way into my soul in another format. Anyone who has met me knows my main passion in life is travelling, and the most valuable experience I come away with, except for human connections, are food memories I am that person who loves to try weird things, both eating and drinking
Food is a way of not only learning about other cultures, it’s a way of forming connections, even when you don’t share the same language It’s a way of preserving history and carrying on traditions It can serve as a lifeboat during your lowest moments It can help to elevate even further an already happy moment Food is universal It is at our core I am so very grateful to my family for my cultural heritage, my upbringing, and instilling a love that motivates me to explore every corner of our planet. In particular, thank you to Mum, for being a woman in my life.
A S e a t a t t h e T a b l e w i t h A n n a f r o m C e l e n t a n o ’ s
Tucked away on the east side of Glasgow, Celentano’s is more than just a restaurant it’s a place built on the joy of gathering. Italian-inspired, yet deeply rooted in local Scottish produce, Celentano’s brings people together over wholesome, seasonal dishes served in a casual yet refined setting With a strong focus on sustainability and a shared love for simple, delicious food, the restaurant has quietly gained recognition from the Michelin Guide, a testament to its thoughtful, ingredient-led approach Owned and run by married couple Anna and Dean Parker with Dean at the helm in the kitchen as head chef Celentano’s is also a family affair in the truest sense. Their young son, Fred, is already forming his own early food memories, often in and around the restaurant’s warm, bustling heart Behind the scenes, Anna is the driving force helping shape both the frontof-house experience and the business as it grows In this conversation, she opens up about her earliest food memories, how life has changed since opening Celentano’s, and the unexpected links between fashion, food, and family.
You mentioned food and fashion trends howdoyoubalancethematCelentano’s?
We never do something just because it’s trendy. Like fashion, if you chase trends without knowing who you are, you lose your identity
WhendidCelentano’scomeabout?
We opened nearly four years ago, right in the middle of lockdown, when we were still living in London I worked in fashion as a men’s buyer, and Dean had always been a chef. Therefore, when I met Dean, food became even more central for both of us- on our honeymoon, we started talking seriously about opening a restaurant and when the opportunity for this location came up, I was also ready to leave fashion
Originally, I was just going to help set it up and manage admin but once I worked a full service, I realised I loved it and the only reason I stepped back was because our son Fred being born
Where does the name Celentano’s come from?
On our honeymoon in Italy, we heard this song in a small shop that caught our attention turns out it was Adriano Celentano, an old Italian singer. The song was in made-up language, meant to sound American After hearing it one, t followed us throughout the trip
Once the idea of a restaurant started taking a proper form, we knew: It has to be called Celentano’s
Is fashion really that different from runningarestaurant?
Not really Fashion and food both require customer insight, trend awareness and budget management You can’t skip steps you have to know every role inside out before you can manage a team
Just like a sous chef can’t skip years of kitchen work
The bar is where we play with trends a bit new cocktails, fun wines
Howoftendoyouchangethemenu?
It can be weekly or even daily- Dean might find wild garlic one day and create a dish around that Travel inspires us too, and Dean encourages the team to eat out and explore- it just keeps the creativity alive.
Othewise, like to change things monthly so guests always find something new
HowdidyouandDeanmeet?
He was head chef at The Dairy and one of my best friend’s boyfriends was also the manager there We met through them- I was drunk and he’d just finished a shift. I whispered to my friend that “I fancy the chef,” and my friend said, “He’s not just a chef he’s THE chef”
Our first date was the day after Valentine’s Day and we went for coffee, visited a gallery, had lunch at Upstairs at the Ten Bells, followed by cocktails in Soho
What’syourfirstfoodmemory?
My grandmother’s cooking She was a pure Glaswegian hearty, traditional Scottish food To that extent that pasta was too fancy for her. She made incredible soups, and I still wonder why they tasted so good My mum told me she grated everything into the pot, which gave the soup this amazing texture.
She made mince and tatties, and always served mash with an ice cream scoop which, as a child, I thought was magic. As an adult, it gives me the ick. As a stereotypical grandmother, she massively overfed us- I was five, getting portions meant for a twelve-year-old
ITALIAN-INSPIRED RESTAURANT, BUILT ON A PASSION FOR SHARING GOOD FOOD AND DRINKS WITH FAMILY AND FRIENDS.
What was in the soup?
It was a lentil soup carrots, lentils, turnip. Simple but delicious I think I remember it so vividly because my mum didn’t cook with salt, but my gran did, so the flavour stood out.
What kind of food memories are you trying to create for Fred?
I try to be mindful about it, but the most important thing is that we always sit down and eat together Dean’s often not home for dinner, so I’ve started eating at toddler-time around 5pm. Fred eats what we eat, even if ours has a touch more salt
He turns two in May, and he’s every bit the classic toddler fussy one moment, a total foodie the next He even has a little toy kitchen at home, and every evening Dean FaceTimes from the restaurant to show him the real one. Now, anytime Fred sees a pot, he shouts, “Daddy, Daddy!” And I’m just standing there like, “Hey I cook too!”
Do you think he’s more adventurous with food because you own a restaurant?
Absolutely We eat out a lot and bring him with us He’s used to restaurants, and we always let him try our food.
What is your favourite family recipes from childhood?
Dean would say making toasties with his grandparents He started putting all sorts of things between two slices of bread maybe that’s where his creativity with food started. My sister and I used to make an aubergine pasta that felt very stressful at the time, but now thinking back - it was quite simple.
Has owning a restaurant changed your home cooking?
Yes, we eat much healthier at home now When I worked all the shifts pre-Fred, I’d wait for the staff meal, which was usually healthy, but I was so hungry by then I’d just overeat And let’s be honest chefs love butter. So even if it felt healthy, it probably wasn’t
At home, we keep it simple Dean loves miso soup with brown rice, vegetables and shrimp. My goto is a tomato-based chicken curry spicy, gingery, warm
We do a lot of simple, nourishing food- I’ve never been a great cook, but I can feed myself
Margarita(formerlyaNegroni).Andanythingsparkling.
Ricecakewithpeanutbutterandbanana(smooth,notcrunchy) orwithhummusandkimchi/sauerkraut—plusTabascoifit’s sauerkraut.
2. CELERY TAPER BEESWAX CANDLES BY HAPPYORGANICS
Who says candles have to be boring? These beeswax celery candles are the ultimate dinner party conversation starter Quirky, cool, and totally unexpected they look like veggies but glow like a dream Light them up and watch your guests doadoubletake(thenaskwhereyougotthem)
Fall in love with your girl dinners all over again with this beautifully designed plate perfect for thoughtful little bites Or take your next book club to the park and elevate the snackswiththisstunning,sectionedplatethatletsyoucurate everynibblewithcare
3 BUDS IN MAY LUNCH PLATES AFTER MATISSE BY CASABYJOSEPHINEJENNO
4.CARAFEANDTUMBLERSETBYISSYGRANGER
We love a bougee home and nothing says it betterespecially in your spare guest bedroom than a beautiful handblown Carafe and Tumbler set on a nightstand Inspired by traditional bedside accessories, this set adds a touch of sophisticationtothebedroom 3
An easy way to elevate your cooking? Beautiful tableware Serve goat cheese pies, a selection of cheese and bread, or fresh fruit and your guests will be raving about those stunning plates long after the meal, praising your simple, ingredient-leddishesassomeofthebestthey'vehad
45 Old Dumbarton Road, Glasgow, G3 8RF
writtenbyAnniMara
Growing up, food was survival—fuel for energy, not something to savour. Flavour, texture, or provenance weren’t part of the conversation, caused on lack of interest and skills which my mother openly admits. And yet, even in that practicalapproachtoeating,therewereflashesof comfortandmemory:mashedpotatoeslacedwith caramelisedonions.Therefore,mostofthedaysit was oven-baked dishes made from fridge odds andends—slicedpotatoeslayeredinaroundtin, topped with scraps of sausage, peas, cheese, all brought together with an egg-and-milk wash. Never crispy on top, sometimes still undercooked and the only seasoning being fine table saltanddrieddill.
Mychildhoodwasspentunderthecounterofmy parents’ countryside grocery shop. Literally. My motherfashionedasmallbedforme,madeoutof plasticpallets,beneaththecashier’sdesk,whereI napped while she worked. The shop stood just across from our forest house, surrounded by toweringpines.Beyonditswalls,myparentsgrew nearlyeverythingweate—fieldsofpotatoes,rows of carrots, turnips, pumpkins, and mountains of cucumbers and tomatoes. Even after we- five children-hadgrownandflown,theykeptgrowing as they always had. Because it wasn’t just a necessity—ithadbecomeahabit.
Learning to cook early gave me an appreciation for ingredients we didn’t often have access to—broccoli, avocado, olives. I remember looking at the cellar shelveslinedwithpickledjarsmymotherhadmade.At thetime,Ioverlookedthem,indifferent.Manyofthem ended up tossed years later. Now, I find myself treasuringthosesameflavours,cravingtheacidityand salt,thetimeandcarepreservedineachjar.
Livingtodayinaplacewheremostvegetablesarriveby truck or plane, it strikes me how disconnected we’ve become from food’s origins. When someone shares they’veharvestedabowloftomatoesfromtheirgarden, itfeelslikearareandenviableachievement.ButIcan’t helpbutrecallthedozensof10-litrebucketsmyfather wouldpickbeforebreakfast,overflowingwithtomatoes, waitingbythefrontdoorformymothertotransform them—onlyforthecycletorepeatafewdayslater.
Now,Idreamofahomewithsoilsoftenoughto dig my hands into, in a climate that allows for abundance. I think of my mother’s jars and how they’d now elevate a simple pasta sauce or turn them into a spread for a homemade focaccia. I wonder when and how that shift happened whenfreshandhomegrownbecamerare,instead ofnormal.
There’s a quiet kind of magic in growing your own food. It’s not about self-sufficiency or being trendy. It’s about reconnecting. It’s about the smell of tomato leaves on your fingers, the heat of the soil, the joy of harvesting something you nurtured from seed to plate. In a world of convenience,weforgetthesatisfactionthatcomes fromslowness—fromeffort.
So if you have the space—even just a sunny windowsill or a patch of ground—plant something. Watch it grow. Let your hands get dirty.There’ssomethingdeeplygroundinginthat act,andmorerewardingthanyoumightexpect.
HERBS
Basil, parsley, mint, chives, rosemary, thyme, andsageareallgreatchoices.
TIP: Buy fresh herbs from your local supermarket,stillattachedtothestemandplacein water. You see roots forming in a few days, indicatingtheyarereadytobepotted.
Lettuce (leaf or microgreens), radishes, pea shoots,andevensomesmalltomatovarieties canthriveonawindowsill.
TIP:Choosesmalltomatovarieties,like'Patio Princess','TinyTim',or'MicroTom'
by:AnniMara
If you ever find yourself in Glasgow and fancy a bite which, let’s be honest, you probably do unless you’ve just walked out of a big meal I’ve got a recommendation Right on Dumbarton Road, in the heart of Partick, there’s a gem of a Vietnamese spot that never misses It’s the answer to almost everything: hunger, cravings, atouchofsadness,oraquietlittlecelebration
Banh-MiandTeaisacosy,family-runrestaurant serving the same small but mighty menu yearround You’ll find just what you need a warm, soul-soothing bowl of pho or a crusty, flavourpacked banh mi. The banh mi itself is a product of fusion: born in Saigon (now Ho Chi Minh City) during the French colonial period, it marries a classic baguette with Vietnamese ingredients like pickled veg, coriander, pâté, and seasoned meats Simple,clever,anddeeplysatisfying
The same friendly team runs the show day in and day out, and service is fast. Dishes appear within minutes, often staggered your pho might arrive while you’re still settling in. Expect water in a plastic pint glass, menus fixed with masking tape, and handwritten signs announcing small changes Most items come in disposablecontainers,withthehumbleceramic pho bowl often being the only reusable thing on yourtable.
It’s not fancy, but it’s functional and in a way, charmingly no-frills The restaurant has expanded from its tiny beginnings to a larger spacewithplentyofseating(Ialwaysgoforthe
table by the big windows, if I can). It’s good any day, anytime
The menu doesn’t change, and that’s part of the appeal. The chicken pho is rich and restorative a clear, pale broth at first glance, but transformed once you start adding in Thai basil, chilli oil, bean sprouts, lime, and fresh chillies It’s a build-yourown-balance kind of meal. Before you know it, you’ve created something fragrant, spicy, and deeply warming something that wouldn’t feel out of place onaredplasticstoolinaVietnamesestreetmarket While the pho or banh mi alone will leave you full and happy, I always suggest adding a side of Vietnamese rolls They’re served with rice noodles, crushed peanuts, and a sweet chilli oil that’s completely unnecessary but totally worth it You’ll find yourself dipping, slurping, nibbling, and rotating through your dishes like a well-rehearsed ritual It’s comfort food atitsbest.
And if the weather calls for it (or even if it doesn’t), order the Vietnamese coffee If you’ve never tried it, it’s a bold, punchy black coffee sweetened with a very generous layer of condensed milk at the bottom.Servedhotoriced,dependingonyourmood or the season, it’s the perfect finish or pick-me-up toanyvisithere.
Banh-Mi and Tea doesn’t try too hard, and it doesn’t need to It’s warm, it’s fast, and it’s got heart And when you find a place that consistently delivers a goodmeal,afastseat,andalittlemomentofescape well,youkeepgoingback.
SophieGloverpaintsanddraws,fromvasesfullofflowerstochefsinthekitchenpreparingfood.Sheillustratesthe pagesbetweenthecoversofVoguetothewinelabelsofTROUPE. https://sophieglover.co.uk
GavinSuttieisawineprofessional,currentlyworkingfortheScottishwineimporterAllianceWine.AsanexsommelierandrestaurantmanagerinbothScotlandandMelbourne,hisknowledgeofwineandfoodallowshimto shareinsightsthatbridgethegapbetweenvineyardandtable,makingwineaccessibleandengagingforall.
@gavinsuttie
ReginaArnauMartinezisaMexicanartist.SheisagraduateoftheGlasgowSchoolofArt'sFineArtPhotography andhaslivedinGlasgowforoveradecade.Herpracticeincludesphotography,writing.Deeplypassionateabout food,sheiscurrentlytravelingtheworld,exploringculturesandstoriesthroughtheirculinarytraditions.
@the_gealach
IsobelSalamonisScottish-basedwinewriterandeducatorknownforherapproachable,insightfultakesonallthings wine.Withasharppalateandaloveforstorytelling,sheexplorestheintersectionsofculture,sustainability,and naturalwine.
@bellespick
KatyaAndersonstoryisshapedbytwoworlds—borninRussiaandraisedinScotland,shecarriestheflavours, traditions,andcontrastsofbothcultureswithher.HavingspentherearlyyearsinMoscowandSt.Petersburgbefore settlinginEdinburgh,Katyaexploreshowfoodreflectsidentity,memory,andchange.
Ifyouwishtobefeaturedorcollaborateinthefutureissues,pleasesendanemailto oystersandmartini@gmail.com
