Organic Matters, Winter 2024

Page 1


When durability, longevity and sustainability count.

• 100% recycled solid plastic, UV stabilised posts

• CCA Free — Bio Gro Organic certified

• Proven highly durable to mechanical harvesters, vine stripping, tractor knocks & strong winds

• 100% recyclable again by Future Post — plus we’ll give you a FREE post if one ever breaks!

• Measurable waste diversion stats can be provided on both your recycling & recycled post use to help you tick off important sustainability targets

• SAVE $000’s every year by avoiding broken treated timber post replacement and disposal costs

“It is a huge advantage in both time and cost savings not having to walk every row and push/pull every single post after harvest in our Future Post block.

I am very happy with our Future Posts to date and am using them for replacements in the rest of the vineyard as well, knowing they are a one-off replacement and also fully recyclable if ever required.

We are also recycling our old vine sleeves, pipes and containers back into posts which is great for sustainability measures.”

Common vineyard and winery plastics can be recycled by Future Post including:

• Dripline

• Pallet Wrap

• Nutrient plastic bags (e.g. Valagro)

• Vine Sleeves

• Vine Guards

• 200L plastics drums

• Chemical containers

• Plastic pallets

• Plastic grape bins

… and a variety of other soft plastics

Bookings being taken NOW for 2024 replacement posts and new developments.

Secure your place in our new local Marlborough factory production queue and we will help you close the loop by recycling your waste plastics for FREE!*

*Conditions apply

In this issue

Cover photo: Sheep graze year-round in this block at Greystone vineyard in North Canterbury, thanks to an innovative trellis system that keeps the vines high over the sheep. This June, regenerative organic viticulturist Kelly Mulville, who has pioneered this system in California, returns to Aotearoa for a national teaching tour to share these methods and more. See story on page 8.

Organic Matters is the magazine of Organic Winegrowers New Zealand. To contribute or advertise, please contact the editor, OWNZ coordinator Rebecca Reider: rebecca@organicwinenz.com.

W N Z R E G E N E R A T I V E

I T I C U L T U R E T O U R

featuring Kelly Mulville

Organic Winegrowers NZ is pleased to be partnering with Kelly Mulville from Paicines Ranch in California to deliver a series of workshops across the country this winter.

Kelly has pioneered the regenerative viticulture movement in the US by building vineyard resilience in the face of a changing climate. His approach aims to move with climate change and reduce the environmental footprint of vineyards by developing innovative viticultural growing systems.

Central Otago | Gibbston Valley | 7 June

North Canterbury | Greystone | 10 June

Marlborough | Ūkaipō - the Rangitāne Cultural Centre | 12 June

Hawke’s Bay | Ash Ridge Winery | 14 June

Coming events

The OWNZ Horticentre Trust Regenerative Viticulture Tour featuring Kelly Mulville

Central Otago - 7 June 2024

North Canterbury - 10 June

Marlborough - 12 June

Hawke’s Bay - 14 June

See advert on facing page and article on pages 8-9 of this magazine for details.

Down to Earth

September 17 & 19, 2024

Following the dynamic inaugural Down to Earth organic wine tasting event held in Auckland last year, the Organic Winegrowers NZ team is thrilled to expand on the main event of Organic Wine Week, with Down to Earth events set to take place in both Auckland and Wellington this September.

Down to Earth brings people together in a vibrant atmosphere, with thoughtful food and delicious organic wines poured by producers. Trade and consumers learn about the importance and quality of organic wine, as well as its positive impact on people and the environment.

Here’s what’s happening:

Wellington: Tuesday 17 Sept, Prefab Hall, Jessie Street, Te Aro Auckland: Thursday 19 Sept, Brad’s Warehouse, Durham Lane

Each event kicks off with a registered trade session in the afternoon, followed by a ticketed public session in the early evening. A larger and more centralised venue has been found for the Auckland tasting to allow for greater winery participation and more good vibes to flow.

Information was sent to wineries in May. If you haven’t heard from us and want to be included, please get in touch with Naomi – naomi@organicwinenz.com.

Organic Wine Week

16-22 September 2024

Ushering in the Spring Equinox, Organic Wine Week is set to take place 16-22 September 2024. OWW is the perfect opportunity for wineries to get creative – perhaps collaborate with another producer, restaurant, retailer or influencer to showcase and celebrate your organic wine. We are here to help you publicise your activities, so conjure up an idea and let us know so we can

add it to our OWW calendar of events page. More information and a digital toolkit will be available for OWNZ members closer to the time.

Organic & Biodynamic Winegrowing Conference

16-18 June 2025

Our flagship event will return to Marlborough in 2025, with three days of inspiration, community and great wines and food.

Photos above: Attendees at OWNZ’s well-attended inaugural Down to Earth event in Auckland enjoy organic wines poured by New Zealand producers. OWNZ marketing and events coordinator Naomi Galvin (below left) celebrates the successful event alongside Katy Prescott from Jules Taylor / On the Quiet.

by Radlab

Photos

Regenerative lessons

Regenerative organic viticulturist Kelly Mulville returns to Aotearoa in June for the Horticentre Charitable Trust OWNZ Regenerative Viticulture Tour.

Tickets are selling quickly for this not-to-be-missed workshop series.

After overwhelming positive feedback following his presentations at the Organic and Biodynamic Winegrowing Conference a year ago, OWNZ is happy to be partnering with Kelly Mulville from Paicines Ranch in California to deliver a series of workshops around the country this winter.

Kelly has pioneered the regenerative viticulture movement in the US with his high wire training system and livestock incorporation into vineyards. This approach aims to move with climate change and reduce the environmental footprint of vineyards by developing innovative viticultural growing systems.

For the past 25 years Kelly has managed, designed and consulted for vineyards,

farms and ranches throughout the USA and internationally. His work focuses on designing and creating agricultural systems and practices that restore ecological health, grow biodiversity, create climate change resilience and increase profitability and beauty.

Four full-day workshops are set to take place:

Central Otago: Gibbston Valley, 7 June 2024

North Canterbury: Greystone, 10 June 2024

Marlborough: Ūkaipō - the Rangitāne Cultural Centre, 12 June 2024

Hawke’s Bay: Ash Ridge, 14 June 2024

Photo by Elaine Patarini

tour coming to NZ

The content of each workshop will vary slightly depending on the region and discussions that arise, and will be guided by the interests of participants. The programme may include:

• Basic ecosystem processes and how they are expressed in winegrowing. These include water and mineral (nutrient) cycles as well as community dynamics and energy flow.

• Decision-making that aligns values with ecosystem health and profitability.

• Creating a context and determining the right tools, practices and strategies for your context.

• The influence of regenerative farming practices on winemaking and wine quality.

• The important role of grazing animals in vineyard health and profitability; grazing effects in brittle and non-brittle environments.

• Increasing fruit quality and yield while reducing offsite amendments.

• Reducing insect pests by increasing biodiversity. Encouraging high beneficial insect and spider populations.

• Increasing soil water-holding capacity and reducing irrigation use.

• Creating resilience in a changing climate.

• Vineyard design.

• Fertility management.

• High trellis systems that allow grazing at any time of the year.

• Benefits of summer grazing.

• How our vineyard grazing/floor management has led to eliminating cover crop seeding.

• Monitoring practices.

• Panel discussion with local growers sharing their experiences.

OWNZ members are encouraged to secure your seat now by taking full advantage of your OWNZ member’s discount. Student prices are also available. Visit https://www.organicwinenz.com/ kellymulvilletour

A special thanks to Horticentre Charitable Trust and all our sponsors for helping to make these events possible.

A happy Kelly Mulville at his workplace, Paicines Ranch, California.The Paicines Ranch herd of four-legged vineyard assistants manages the understory, eliminating the need for mowing; growing vines on high trellises, safely above the sheep, allow for year-round grazing. Photos courtesy of Paicines Ranch.

Photos above:

‘A vintage to stock up on’

OWNZ regional representatives compare notes on the completed growing season, with satisfying organic vintages experienced from north to south.

Auckland

Daniela Rodriguez Randone, Assistant Vineyard Manager, Mudbrick

Mudbrick’s vintage 2024 on Waiheke Island ended with remarkable quality of fruit, although yields were below average.

From our perspective, the very hard and wet conditions of season 2023 had repercussions on the vines, which are still recovering, so we ended up with a lower bunch set and lower bunch weight. Luckily, the weather during the growing season was exceptional, allowing the vines to focus on developing their potential.

At Mudbrick we grow grapes of many varietals such as Chardonnay, Albariño, Viognier, Pinot Gris, Syrah, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot, so our harvest took place from February 22 to April 9, a period in which good weather was predominant and allowed the grapes to reach excellent levels of maturity with very good sanity.

Particularly on our organic blocks, Pinot Gris and Cabernet Sauvignon, we had an early case of downy mildew that we were able to control in time. And all the hard work that we put into those blocks paid off with excellent and concentrated grapes.

As with much of the rest of the country, we were down 30-40% on crop but with fantastic quality fruit.

Now that all the wine is in the cellar, going through its process, it’s time for us to start planning and organising the following season, hoping to have another good year ahead.

Hawke’s Bay

Evans, Village Vineyards

A reprieve was in order for Hawke’s Bay after a tough few seasons, and to some extent that’s what the region received. Predictions of an El Niño phase provided

Above: Harvest at Neudorf, Nelson

optimism, but the million dollar question was when would it arrive?

One positive from last year’s rain was the abundance of feed for stock. Blocks could be grazed extensively over the winter and into early spring. Persistently warm sea-surface temperatures delayed El Niño and kept the region warm and muggy throughout spring. At times we felt like we could see the canopy growing, so an intensive and timely regime of leaf and shoot removal was necessary for organic growers.

As inflorescences emerged, the hangover of 2022/23 set in. Shoot fruitfulness was compromised and early estimates put most growers at 20-30% down on yield projections. Flowering was a mixed bag, with the consensus being that the lower yields had been exacerbated. The phrase “atmospheric river” was still being thrown about, so growers kept wary with the season in the balance.

By mid-January the high pressure belt moved in from the west and so too the beginnings of a classic Hawke’s Bay summer. A return to ample growing degree days, quality sunlight and impending rain events from the west that never arrived. The fruit that made it to harvest was of the highest quality with outstanding flavours. Many growers just wish there was more of it. Still, a significant step in the right direction and a vintage in house that will be worth the wait.

Gisborne

Despite challenging weather conditions last year, this vintage has been great. We were fortunate to experience favourable weather conditions throughout the season, with no disruptions from cyclones, which is a big relief. While the harvest was relatively light, the grapes we did harvest looked nice and wonderfully ripe, so we’re optimistic about the quality of this year’s wines.

It’s worth noting that while our harvest was successful, the region as a whole experienced lower yields compared to previous years. This isn’t uncommon for us, as organic growers often have lower yields compared to conventional methods. Interestingly, a couple of our

blocks actually yielded more fruit than some of the conventional vineyards in the area.

Despite the challenges of weather and the unpredictability of nature, our vines have shown remarkable resilience. This harvest reaffirms our dedication to sustainable organic viticulture and our belief in the power of nurturing the land for generations to come.

Wairarapa

Out amongst the vines, it sure was a welcome return to an El Niño weather pattern this season.

This made for some stunning days and cooler nights that aided in helping produce some truly wonderful fruit in the Martinborough region.

The weather started out unsettled over flowering from early December leading up to Christmas, thus making yield predictions a little light. However, after Christmas, the Wairarapa’s renowned long, dry summer finally arrived, providing perfect conditions for growing and getting the fruit ripened, with thick skins and concentrated flavour. The lowest rainfall in years of 227mm, down from 597mm over the previous growing season, greatly helped minimise disease pressure and the need for extensive weed control.

At Palliser Estate, having very low disease pressure this season, we were able to reduce the frequency of our organic spray rounds, and also pick when we reached optimal ripeness come harvest time, providing wonderfully clean fruit in all our

Photos at left, from top to bottom: Harvesting Petit Verdot at Mudbrick on Waiheke Island.

Amy Hopkinson-Styles of Halcyon Wines is happy with her pick of Two Terraces’ organic Chenin Blanc, Hawke’s Bay.

The Palliser Estate team: Clayton, Rachael, Huia, Guy, Chrstine and Ivor.

Above:

Caleb Chapman samples Sauvignon

Blanc at family vineyard Terrace Edge, North Canterbury.

Rejane does pigeage on a Pinot Noir ferment at Rippon Central Otago.

varieties for the winery team. With team spirit at a high, it was a joy to pick our 403 tonnes from early March to early April. This was slightly up from 329 tonnes the previous year. Overall, it was a fun and exciting season for all of the team out there who have been tending to the vines throughout the year.

Now about those greatly anticipated wines... I hear that there is much excitement in the winery at the moment and the word from our winemaker Guy McMaster is that “2024 will be a vintage to stock up on.” Wow! Can’t wait!

Marlborough

The spring season for V24 started a little cooler than most years, during which there was a significant frost event that affected several subregions. The continued cool weather from budburst to flowering caused considerably slower growth in the lead-up to flowering. Just prior to flowering, the region started to experience a warmer period with dry conditions which we would see for the rest of the season.

For most varieties, flowering was cooler than normal and was drawn out over several weeks. The effect of the longer flowering period caused poor fruit set across most varieties which, in most cases, decreased the total yield significantly.

Post flowering, the summer was consistently hot and windy. The dry conditions ensured healthy canopy growth throughout the season. The smaller crop, healthy canopies and consistent hot/dry conditions meant that fruit development progressed rapidly. For some, there was a constant threat of water being cut off due to decreasing river levels, but most could get through to harvest with little incident.

The heightened wind and heat meant that fruit developed rapidly. This saw harvest start up to two weeks earlier than normal for some. The near-perfect conditions during this period ensured full physiological ripeness across all varieties. Some cooler evening conditions during harvest ensured that acidity was kept in balance. This must be one of the best vintages this region has ever seen!

Nelson

Stefan Brockley, Neudorf

Nelson experienced a stunning vintage in 2024. Following a dry winter, the entire growing season saw at or below average monthly rainfall from September through until harvest in March. Flowering conditions were good, with most varieties at the moderate to good size in terms of yield, albeit down slightly on the larger 2023 harvest. Council-imposed water restrictions put some pressure on irrigation requirements in some areas as the long summer rolled on. Dry-farmed blocks, much like 2019, stood up well in the face of drought-like conditions. Maximum daily temperatures peaked above 30 degrees on six occasions during January and February, highlighting the hot dry conditions.

With minimal rainfall over the final months of ripening, disease pressure was very low, resulting in near-perfect fruit coming off the vines. Perfect weather over the final weeks eliminated any stress or difficult picking decisions, with ideal sugar levels easy to achieve. In general grapes ripened wonderfully and close to the average harvest dates of recent times. Acids remained a little higher this year, with canopies maintaining good colour at harvest despite the incredibly dry ground conditions.

2024 continued a great run of recent vintages in the Nelson region. From a growing perspective, this one will be hard to beat. It was a buoyant mood at the end-of-harvest party, with everyone keen to see how the wines shape up given the spectacular growing season. We now turn our attention to cutting sticks off sticks!

North Canterbury

We were kept watchful with a few spring frosts. One significant event in late October hit a few sites; fortunately damage was not widespread through the region. However, no one escaped the extreme winds on October 14th, which caused damage to properties around the region with a number of trees uprooted and tin shredded from roofs. The vines took a bit of a pounding and sulked for a while after the wind, especially on the more exposed sites.

December temperatures were cooler than average, which reduced fruit set in most varieties. It wasn’t until after Christmas that temperatures started to really ramp up and canopy growth raced away. From this point onwards the landscape changed from quite dry to tinder dry. Due to the favourable weather and vigilant spraying, powdery mildew incidence was negligible.

With smaller bunches and smaller berries, ripening was fast and the expectation was that harvest would start early and be finished very quickly. As anticipated, it did start early, with Pinot Noir picking starting for some producers in mid-March. However, some varieties took longer than expected, and the later-ripening varieties such as Syrah were not all in until 30th April. Across most varieties, yields were down by approximately 20%, with Pinot Noir generally having the largest reduction. However, when it came to quality, no one was disappointed. The fruit around the region looked and tasted great. The flavours were so vibrant with excellent acidity. There will be some delicious wines!

Central Otago

The Central Otago growing season was warm and dry, with growers striving to keep enough water up to the vines over the later part of the summer.

Flowering and veraison were drawn out, which lent itself to a more extended harvest. The nature of the season still brought the picking forward slightly, but then cool, cloudy periods (and finally some decent rain) slowed up ripening at the final stage, giving us time to make the most ideal decisions on picking dates.

Yields across the region look solid and most are happy with the quality of fruit coming in.

This year we saw the true return of the backpacker workforce; young, energetic and enthusiastic was the vibe for the season and the picking. So nice to have the mix of experienced crew providing steadiness and knowledge, mingling with the travellers’ vitality.

Looking forward to tasting through the different ferment lots as they go down to barrel in the winter; cheers to 2024.

Above: The Felton Road crew celebrates the last crates, Central Otago. Thanks to all our OWNZ members who sent harvest photos!

EU Green Deal set to alter organic trade landscape

Ecological policy frameworks coming into place in the EU are set to reshape international trade — and organic producers are poised to make the most of it.

Tiffany Tompkins is CEO of Organics Aotearoa New Zealand and a former member of the OWNZ executive.

As we witness the evolution of international trade policies, it’s evident that environmental and social considerations are increasingly taking centre stage. The European Union (EU) stands as a significant driver of change in this realm, with its ambitious European Green Deal shaping the landscape of sustainable trade practices.

The European Green Deal, a framework of policy instruments for achieving the goal of carbon neutrality by 2050, spans across the EU’s entire economy. In agriculture, significant transformations are underway, and for New Zealand’s wine industry, understanding the ramifications of these changes is critical.

The EU’s ambitious green agenda, encapsulated in initiatives such as the Farm to Fork, Biodiversity, Zero Pollution and Circular Economy Strategies, is poised to instigate significant shifts both domestically and beyond the region’s borders. These proactive measures hold profound implications, particularly for nations like New Zealand which are reliant on exports to the EU market. The need for close scrutiny cannot be

overstated, as these policies not only stand to impact immediate trade relations but also carry the potential to establish the EU’s standards as the benchmark for global sustainability practices and regulations.

“Within the EU Green Deal, there are several policies that carry substantial implications for New Zealand’s wine industry.”

Within the EU Green Deal, there are several policies that carry substantial implications for New Zealand’s wine industry. The policies include:

• A ban on the import of products with residues of pesticide or chemicals banned in the EU. The EU bans 195 of these chemicals, while New Zealand bans 27.

• New laws aimed at cracking down on greenwashing, where false claims are

made about a product’s environmental benefits. New Zealand producers will need solid proof to back up claims of sustainability or being carbon-efficient.

• A Sustainability Labelling Scheme for all products sold in the EU. This scheme will assess products based on how well they perform in areas that address climate change, water and air quality, soil health, protecting biodiversity and promoting a circular economy.

The EU’s Green Deal initiatives, including bans on certain synthetic pesticides and greenwashing, are reshaping consumer preferences and market dynamics. New Zealand’s wine industry must adapt to evolving standards and consumer expectations, prioritising transparency and sustainability in its practices.

The EU sees organic production as seamlessly aligning with its aspiration to achieve climate neutrality across the continent, owing to several pivotal factors:

• Reduced carbon footprint: Organic farming practices prioritise natural processes and avoid synthetic inputs such as chemical fertilisers and pesticides. This leads to lower energy consumption and reduced greenhouse gas emissions

compared to conventional agriculture, contributing to overall carbon footprint reduction.

• Soil health and carbon sequestration: Organic farming techniques – such as crop rotation, cover cropping and composting – enhance soil health and increase organic matter content. Healthy soils act as a carbon sink, sequestering carbon dioxide from the atmosphere and mitigating climate change.

• Biodiversity conservation: Organic farming encourages biodiversity by promoting habitat diversity, natural pest control and the preservation of native species. Diverse ecosystems are more resilient to climate change impacts and provide essential ecosystem services such as pollination and water regulation.

• Sustainable resource management: Organic agriculture prioritises resource efficiency and reduces dependency on fossil fuels and synthetic inputs. Practices like water conservation, efficient energy use and waste reduction contribute to the overall sustainability of food production systems.

• Resilience to climate change: Organic farming systems tend to be more resilient to extreme weather events and climate variability due to their focus on soil health, biodiversity and ecological balance. This resilience helps farmers adapt to changing climate conditions while maintaining productivity and food security.

By promoting organic production methods, the EU is advancing its climate neutrality goals by fostering agricultural practices that mitigate greenhouse gas emissions, enhance carbon sequestration, conserve biodiversity and build resilience to climate change.

Regardless of production methods, it is important that all New Zealand wine companies understand the changing dynamics before them.

Import ban on products containing pesticides

banned in the EU

The EU aims to reduce agricultural inputs such as synthetic pesticides, posing challenges for many New Zealand producers. Plans to ban imports with pesticide residues banned in the EU may hinder New Zealand exports due to differing regulations. As EU standards

tighten and consumer preferences shift toward sustainability, non-compliant New Zealand producers risk losing competitiveness in the European market.

The gap in banned pesticides, especially neonicotinoids like imidacloprid and chlorpyrifos, presents a hurdle for many New Zealand exporters. Continued use of these banned pesticides risks EU export eligibility, while regulations on glyphosate may further complicate matters. While glyphosate-based herbicides are still permitted in the EU, they are subject to strict regulation.

Certified organic farming offers a solution by aligning with EU sustainability goals and ensuring compliance with regulations, enhancing market appeal and maintaining competitiveness in Europe as demand for eco-friendly products grows.

Greenwashing

The EU is taking strong measures against greenwashing, the misleading promotion of products as environmentally friendly. Recent laws aim to give consumers accurate information about product durability, repairability and environmental impacts. New Zealand producers, especially those in land-based industries, must comply to avoid lawsuits, fines and damage to their reputation.

The bans on vague environmental claims and unclear sustainability labels are

major concerns. New Zealand producers will face scrutiny over terms like ‘ecofriendly’, ‘climate-friendly’ or ‘carbon neutral’ and must provide detailed data on things like greenhouse gas emissions and water use to back up any environmental claims. This means being transparent and accountable throughout the supply chain.

Certified organic farming is a way to address these concerns. It involves strict standards verified by third parties, prohibiting synthetic chemicals and promoting sustainable practices. Unlike vague environmental claims, organic certification is a transparent process with annual audits to prove compliance. Government oversight adds credibility. Embracing certified organic farming can help New Zealand producers navigate regulations effectively, meet consumer demand for genuinely sustainable products and gain a competitive edge in global markets as the EU tightens regulations against greenwashing.

Sustainability labelling

The EU’s Sustainability Food System Framework Initiative aims to integrate sustainability into all food-related policies, with a particular emphasis on sustainability labelling to support the Farm to Fork Strategy. Compliance with these regulations is essential for New Zealand producers, especially those exporting to the EU. The Sustainability Labelling Framework will evaluate

Above: Hand-picked organic Chardonnay, Indevin, 2024 vintage, Marlborough

products based on their environmental impacts, posing risks to producers failing to meet sustainability criteria, potentially resulting in lower ratings and decreased competitiveness in European markets.

“Embracing certified organic farming can help New Zealand producers navigate regulations effectively... and gain a competitive edge in global markets as the EU tightens regulations against greenwashing.”

New Zealand producers are confronted with risks related to climate change, water impacts, air quality, soil health and biodiversity conservation, particularly in meeting EU standards. Non-compliance could lead to lower product ratings under the EU Sustainability Labelling Scheme.

However, certified organic farming provides a solution by mitigating many of these risks. Certified organic farming is known to enhance soil health and promote carbon sequestration through methods such as cover cropping. By eschewing synthetic inputs, organic farming minimises water pollution and nitrate leaching, contributing to freshwater health and supporting biodiversity conservation. Additionally, organic practices foster circular economies by minimising waste through composting.

The organic market opportunity for New Zealand wine Europe has experienced a significant rise in its organic food market, reaching 54.5 billion euros in 2021, making it the secondlargest organic market globally after the United States. Germany leads in market size, followed by France, while Denmark, Switzerland and Sweden have the highest per capita spending on organic products. The EU aims to transition at least 25% of its agricultural land to organic farming by 2030 as part of its climateneutral goals.

This commitment by the EU presents a substantial opportunity for New Zealand’s land-based primary producers. EU consumers, increasingly conscious of sustainability and organic products, favour goods from verifiable sources. As the EU targets a 25% share of organic farming, coupled with concerns over climate change and environmental damage, consumer preferences are likely to further shift towards organic products.

To assess the potential for New Zealand’s organic exports to the EU, a study commissioned by Organics Aotearoa New Zealand (OANZ) focused on two key sectors: wine and dairy. The modelling was undertaken by TRADE Research Advisory (Pty) Ltd (hereafter Trade Advisory), a specialist research company operating in the fields of international trade and economic development. Trade Advisory has developed a methodology to

identify realistic export opportunities for countries, regions and industry sectors or individual companies.

Trade Advisory employed a scenario-based approach to estimate potential export opportunities, assuming a hypothetical increase in the percentage of organic exports.

For New Zealand wine, the analysis indicates significant untapped potential in the EU market, particularly in countries like Germany, the Netherlands and Belgium/Luxembourg. By modelling various scenarios of increasing organic wine exports, the study estimates considerable export potential, with organic wine alone potentially reaching 87% of total New Zealand wine exports to the EU.

Similarly, for bulk wine exports, Trade Advisory identifies substantial untapped potential in EU markets, with Germany and France leading the opportunities. Modelling the increase in organic bulk wine imports reveals significant potential, with

Above: Tiffany Tompkins, CEO of OANZ and co-author of the EU Green Deal report, spoke at the Organic and Biodynamic Winegrowing Conference in Blenheim last June.

organic wine potentially comprising more than 50% of total bulk wine imports from New Zealand into the EU.

Overall, while the EU’s commitment to organic farming presents promising opportunities for New Zealand’s landbased primary producers, capturing these opportunities requires strategic planning and alignment with evolving consumer preferences and regulatory frameworks within the EU market.

This article is based on a longer report published by Organics Aotearoa New Zealand (OANZ), entitled ‘EU Green Deal: Impact on New Zealand’s Primary Producers’.

To read the full report, visit the OANZ website: https://www.oanz.org/research

Above: Modelling from the report commissioned by OANZ shows the scale of the organic wine opportunity in the EU. The green lines represent the modelled potential value of organic bottled wine imports into the EU, at different percentages of total bottled wine imports into the EU. As an example, if 10% of all wine imported into the EU was organically certified, this would represent a potential market of approximately NZ$130m (top green line). For reference, this potential import market represents approximately 87% of the EU’s total wine imports (organic and conventional) of NZ$150m from New Zealand in 2021 (orange bar).

Promoting Vine Health

Stim Concentrate Liquid

• A highly concentrated liquid seaweed based on Ascophyllum Nodosum

• Maximises plant potential during periods of abiotic stress

• Improves root growth and plant vigour

• Improves YAN

Year in Review

The NZ organic wine tour... online

As part of Organic Wine Week 2023,

international

audiences got a window into the challenges and glories of making organic wine in Aotearoa – in producers’ own words

New Zealand, known for its breathtaking landscapes, is attracting international attention as a thriving hub for organic winemaking. During the most recent Organic Wine Week, in September, Brad Horne from @winetimelondon (based in the UK) delved into the nuances of seven distinct wine regions through an online New Zealand Organic Wine Tour.

Winemakers and viticulturists from each of the seven wine regions shared their experiences, challenges and successes in adopting organic practices. These conversations offered an intimate glimpse into the passion and dedication that drive these vintners to produce exceptional organic wines.

Organic winemaking is not without its challenges, and Brad’s interviews on the tour didn’t shy away from addressing them. The interviews shed light on the complexities of navigating organic certification, pest control and the transition from conventional to organic farming. However, the winemakers also emphasised the rewards – improved soil health, biodiversity, and the production of wines that authentically reflect their terroir.

Beyond the vineyards, the NZ Organic Wine Tour also took a closer look at other sustainable practices employed by the featured wineries. From energyefficient facilities to water conservation initiatives, the series highlighted the holistic approach that many New Zealand wineries are adopting to minimise their

environmental impact.

The seven-day virtual tour began at the top of the North Island at October 30 Wines, with Alistair and Karen Noakes speaking on the organic movement that, according to Alistair, is definitely gaining traction.

“We’re all trying to look after the environment we’re living in, the ground, and the people around us.” – Alistair Noakes, October 30

Then it was on to the sunny Hawke’s Bay with vineyard manager Ryan Fraser speaking from the field at Paritua:

“It takes time to go from using herbicide to learning how to manage the undervine organically. You have to be more involved in the vineyard and do everything right at the right time. You don’t have a big bag of chemicals to draw on. Going organic also takes a perception change. There will be more weeds. You’re not looking at clean, straight lines where everything is tidy. You have to put up with a little bit of mess.”

– Ryan Fraser, Paritua

Photos at left:

Alistair and Karen Noakes, organic producers at October 30 in Matakana, represented the north in the virtual tour (top), while in the Wairarapa, Palliser Estate’s seaweed harvests were featured.

Next stop was Palliser Estate and Guy McMaster, talking on their organic journey. Guy shared an evocative memory from his first taste of organic produce at an orange orchard at the top of the North Island.

“I had never seen such vibrant-coloured orange flesh before; the juiciness was extraordinary. Something really resonated with me. The taste and purity of that orange was sublime.”

This experience ultimately planted a seed in Guy’s mind, and he went on to convert a vineyard to organic and biodynamic production before taking Palliser down their organic journey. He commented on the significance of their staged approach to organic conversion. Four of their six vineyard blocks are certified organic, with the remaining two blocks now under conversion to organic.

“It was important for us to go gradually for staff to gently see the difference, so you bring them along with you and it doesn’t put too much stress on overall operations. And from a capital perspective it makes it a bit easier.”

– Guy McMaster, Palliser Estate

“Fruit comes into the winery in such a healthy state that fermentation is actually a natural process. We don’t need to purchase a whole lots of products to help us make the wine.”

“We now finish harvest before we used to start picking. Anyone who works in agriculture anywhere in the world is well aware of climate change. Younger consumers are making an active decision to eat free range chicken and organic produce. There’s a new market of wine drinkers and we need to speak to these people. Organics is an important part of that communication. Sustainability is the baseline at the moment. Organics is a natural step from there. It’s a long road with people going through a transition period. In the next five-ten years you will see more and more organic labels being produced.”

Marlborough was next, with another ‘in the flesh’ conversation with Leah Seresin of Seresin Estate. Leah, the daughter of owner and famed cinematographer and film director Michael Seresin, talked about setting up the vineyard in 1992 and how they went organic two years later. “Why use chemicals if you don’t have to?” she asked.

“Seresin is more of a farm than a vineyard. It has biodiversity. The quality of the people we have working with us is amazing; it’s not just a job for them. People have passion for organics, and they have an intimate relationship with the plants. It’s all the little things adding up and working together that makes the place so special.”

– Leah Seresin, Seresin Estate

On Day 6, Brad was in the Greystone vineyards of North Canterbury with Mike Saunders, as well as with Dom Maxwell telling stories from the winery.

“Organics is our framework, our lens that we look through. Anything else we can add in front of that, like regenerative practices, is another filter. We hope that when people come to Greystone, they see that we’re not just sustaining, we’re enriching. That’s what we’re aiming for.”

– Mike Saunders, Greystone

On the fourth day Brad jumped (metaphorically) over the Cook Strait to Nelson, and sat down with Rosie Finn (in person, in London) to talk about organics and biodynamics at Neudorf and in the region. Rosie spoke of vintage starting earlier and earlier. In 40 years since Neudorf’s first harvest, they have seen vintage starting six weeks earlier.

Photos this page:

Brad Horne of Wine Time London meets with Leah Seresin, while Dom Maxwell of Greystone and Nigel Greening of Felton Road feature longdistance on Brad’s Instagram.

Dom spoke of the benefits of using organic fruit in the winery.

“Because the vineyard and winery are so intrinsically connected, what I see in the winery is microflora and biome positively affected by how we operate in the vineyard. Fruit comes into the winery in such a healthy state that fermentation is actually a natural process. We don’t need to purchase a whole lot of products to help us make the wine. The fruit is inherently healthy and lively. There’s nutrients and plentiful yeast and bacteria. As winemaker the job is to understand the fruit. The handling should respect the fruit and allow it to speak of its natural place.”

To wrap up the tour, Brad sat down with Nigel Greening in London for a two-part episode on Central Otago and Felton Road. Nigel recounted how on the day that Nigel took over as proprietor of the vineyard, he sat down over a beer with winemaker Blair Walter and asked him what was on his wish list. The first thing Blair said was, ‘I want to go organic’. It was a no-brainer decision for Nigel, and that’s exactly what they did. They also agreed on a volume target of 12,000 cases, which they reached in 2006, and have since stopped growing.

“We will never grow now. We have a zero-growth policy. It’s so much easier when you know where you’re going, or not going, and that’s it. You don’t make better wine by trying to make better wine; you do all the other stuff as well as you can, try to be patient, observe, and then you realise you’re going in the right direction. We choose to play the long game. It’s a two-way process; you give to the land and the land gives back to you.” – Nigel Greening, Felton Road

Most of the interviews and regional overviews are still available to view on Brad’s Instagram page @winetimelondon:

18th September: Auckland – October 30 Wine with Alistair and Karen Noakes @october30_organic_wine

19th Sept: Hawke’s Bay – Paritua Wines with Jason Stent @parituawines

20th Sept: Wairarapa – Palliser Estate with Guy McMaster @palliserwine

21st Sept: Marlborough – Seresin Estate with Leah Seresin @seresinestate

22nd Sept: Canterbury – Greystone Wines with Mike Saunders and Dom Maxwell @greystonewines

23rd Sept: Nelson – Neudorf Vineyards with Rosie Finn @neudorfvineyards

24th Sept: Central Otago – Felton Road with Nigel Greening @feltonroad

The NZ Organic Wine Tour offered a compelling narrative, going beyond the tasting notes and delving into the heart of New Zealand’s organic wine movement. As the global wine community continues to embrace organic viticulture, this series served as an inspiring and educational resource for both connoisseurs and aspiring winegrowers alike.

Learning in community Year in Review

OWNZ representatives in the regions hosted a series of informal get-togethers last spring around Organic Wine Week. Growers came together to hear from industry leaders about their wealth of organic knowledge and experiences. Here, some of our regional reps report back on these successful community events.

Marlborough

Abbie Maxwell, Yealands

Our workshop went well with about 25 or so attendees.

Matt Fox was an excellent MC, reminding everyone that spring is a perfect time to do an earthworm count, a great way to track soil health.

The focus of the workshop was to engage and connect, encouraging attendees to “bring a buddy and a bottle”. Dog Point kindly hosted the workshop, and Nigel Sowman led the discussion with ‘A season at Dog Point’.

Nigel captivated attendees with his wisdom – a natural Organic Guru (OG)! He shared his considerations for the season ahead, learnings he’s navigated, tips for successful conversion to organic viticulture and thorough insight into cover crops. Nigel highlighted the importance of establishing first your goals, i.e., what do you want to achieve with cover crops? Then tailoring cover crop selection and management according to your goals.

Planning was another focus point, emphasised with the outlook of a dry growing season ahead. Nigel spoke of building up soil health and biodiversity during conversion years, to avoid the ‘detox slump’ sometimes associated with converting into organics. This was insightful for those considering or in the mist of gaining organic certification. A great discussion on wildflowers was had, focusing on how best to encourage beneficial insects and biological diversification.

Jeremy Oswald from OsGro Seed Services shared his wealth of knowledge on establishing cover crops. He enlightened attendees on the importance of understanding vineyard microclimates and end goals, to ensure successful cover crops. A great suggestion was to have a chat with neighbouring vineyards as to what seed mixes they use, their results and suggestions.

The standup format encouraged questions throughout the presentations. Great questions were asked on cover cropping hillsides, as well as how to navigate mealy bug and disease pressure.

Other Organic Gurus in attendance kindly shared their experience with cover crops and conversion as questions arose.

Following discussions, the Organic Curious connected with our Organic Gurus over a glass or two of delicious organic wines.

Central Otago

Annabel Bulk, Felton Road

Organic growers from around Central Otago met at Amisfield in late September to discuss growing practices. The session started off with Amanda Currie representing Tinwald Farm. Amanda spoke of her journey with regenerative farming and how they learned from adversity to become better farmers. Working with microbes and a healthier holistic system has led to better performance and beneficial ecology.

Simon Gourley from Domaine Thomson spoke next about his undervine management and again spoke about the hardships they have learned to work with

Photo: Central Otago growers meet up for a field day at Amisfield’s organic vineyards.

(namely an incredibly rocky soil) and how their soil and undervine management have evolved to accommodate the difficulty of working the land.

Following this, the group stepped outside to see the results of André Latagan’s seeding and subsurface watering work in the vineyards at Amisfield. André demonstrated how simple yet ingenious solutions, like placing dividers in a seed hopper to segregate species, can have an effective result.

Thank you to Amisfield and the team for hosting us and a massive thanks to Amanda, Simon and André for sharing their experiences and thoughts.

North Canterbury

Pete Chapman, Terrace Edge

It was heartening to have a great number (26) at the cover cropping and undervine management workshop. We had a panel of both conventional and organic growers share their thoughts; their experiences with cover cropping dated back to 2005.

A lot of practical tips and tricks for establishment of cover crops were

shared. Much discussion centred around the necessity of active roots in the soil to create healthy function. No one doubted this to be true, however, some shared their experiences of having permanent undervine growth and the dramatic reduction in vine vigour and consequent reduction in yields over time; this was most significant for those on lighter soils.

Beneficial insect-attracting mixes, green crops and multi-species plantings were all discussed and are becoming more common in the region. The introduction of diversity by whatever means is so valuable!

Gisborne

Geoff Wright, Wrights Wines

Our Organic Community Day had a great turnout. About 20 people turned up, including grape growers, vegetable growers, home growers, soil consultants and like-minded businesses.

We started off with some flax planting, then moved over to laying down a community biodynamic cow pat pit and at the same time mixing a BD500. We had a couple of guests that had worked in biodynamics and could share some knowledge on BD500. Once the group had mixed the BD500, we were then able to apply it to our vineyard.

The concept for this initial workshop was to build on a social network of organic and biodynamic enthusiasts, who are either in the industry or keen to learn more. We have also set up a local Facebook group for members to share anything and everything organic.

There are now two VPA units working in the Marlborough area. These are both mounted on the perfect base, a FENDT tractor.

The VPA (Vineyard Pilot Assist) scans the vineyard row ahead of the tractor and creates a 3D picture which then automatically adjusts Undervine Cultivation Equipment mounted in the centre of the tractor and well as the variable width mower mounted on the rear 3 point linkage.

The unit can also steer the tractor automatically greatly reducing operator fatigue and giving perfect results.

Above: Mucking in to create cow pat pit, a biodynamic fertility stimulant, at Wrights Wines’ community event.

Designed to enable you to achieve the ideal mowing width for your vineyard, the Braun Alpha 2000 variable width mowers are available in 7 size ranges, from 1.11.4m to the largest 1.9-2.5m model. The mowers are also designed to take a range of accessories including Stem Cleaning units for bud removal and tidying growth around the vines as well as Fingerweeders to work the soil under the vines.

These units are the highest quality German built mower with a proven design.

Orders are being taken now for our next shipment due in September 2023. Previous orders sold out quickly.

For further information please contact our dealers: MARLBOROUGH, NORTH CANTERBURY, AUSTRALIA and rest of NZ, Byrnebuilt Engineering Ltd, Adrian Byrne 021 456 936

NELSON, TRS ,Craig Hovenden 021 895 592, or Daryl Hall 021 438 159

HASTINGS, TRS, Bennet Williams 021 438 215

MASTERTON, TFM, Cyril Butler 027 294 5010

CENTRAL OTAGO, JJs, Gavin Denston 027 435 4017.

Waiheke

We had a look around our cover cropped blocks and had some good discussion around the best time to turn in cover crops for maximum benefit and to avoid them starting to compete with the vines. We spoke about how we could go about doing this with not having access to a crimp roller on the island.

We discussed the challenges some of us have had getting cover crops to establish properly in our clay soils. It was noted that we have all had issues with rabbits and pukekos damaging the germinating legume plants in our cover crop mixes.

We also had some good discussion around our various approaches to undervine management and what works in the heavy clay soils on the island.

It was nice to catch up and share some ideas and a couple of nice wines, and good to meet some of the newer vineyard owners on the island who are looking to manage their properties organically.

The main event of Organic Wine Week 2023, Down to Earth was held on Thursday 21 September at East Street Hall, located just off Karangahape Road in Auckland. The tasting event was a longtime vision and realisation of the OWNZ executive team to host a consumerfocused organic wine event in the city.

Down to Earth hit the mark by bringing people together in a vibrant atmosphere, around a modern canteen, with thoughtful food and delicious organic wines poured by producers. Attendees learned about the importance and quality of organic wine, as well as its positive impact on people and the environment.

A total of 22 organic New Zealand wineries participated, showcasing 63 certified organic wines.

Nelson

A small but keen turnout for the Nelson event occurred at the tail end of Organic Wine Week on Friday the 22nd of September. We headed out into the vineyard to have a look around and discuss a myriad of topics relating to organic farming within a vineyard setting. The focus eventually centred on weed control, which garnered the most interest among the group.

Mechanical options to keep weeds down were discussed as we looked over some of the machinery in use at Neudorf vineyards. Other types of weeders and how they relate to and perform on differing soil types then took focus. The conversation then moved to the use of undervine plants to reduce the need for weeding and the difficulties in sowing such species to start with.

With some resource materials distributed, we all headed to the local to carry on the discussions. A big thanks goes out to those who attended both from within the direct industry as well as outside stakeholders who offered ongoing support. Finally, the event was able to run successfully due to the help and support from OWNZ which was greatly appreciated. Naomi is a rockstar!

The afternoon kicked off with a trade session which saw 50 influential Auckland retailers, restaurateurs and sommeliers taste their way through the impressive lineup of organic wines and chat to the producers.

Event organiser Naomi Galvin of Organic Winegrowers NZ said, “Wineries are always looking for ways of getting in front of trade, so it was a great opportunity for our members to make connections and build relationships.”

After a brief pizza break and wine replenish, the public were welcomed in for the consumer session in the early evening. A total of 94 public tickets sold for an approachable $38 each, which included nibbles and wine tasting throughout the evening.

Peter Lorimer, who attended the event for Deep Down Wines, thought Down to Earth was excellent. “There was a solid turnout from trade and consumers. It was interesting to see so many young people at the consumer session, who were open and thoughtful – our future buyers. We’re already excited for next year’s shindig!”

Erica Crawford, who helped organise the event and who participated by pouring her Loveblock wines, said, “There was a vibrant, happy energy and buzz in the

East Street Hall amongst producers, trade and consumers as organic wine was poured and sipped. We’ll definitely need a bigger venue next year, such was the interest for our first event.”

Testing the waters with the first organic wine event of its kind in New Zealand clearly showed there’s an appetite out there to learn about and taste organic wines in a fun and engaging way. Plans are already in place to expand Down to Earth in 2024. Events will take place during Organic Wine Week, 16-22 September 2024. We can’t wait! See event details on page 7 of this magazine. Organic wineries are invited to email Naomi to reserve your spot: naomi@ organicwinenz.com.

Member news

New faces in the membership

OWNZ welcomes the following new certified organic members.

Grava Wines

Alistair Gardner, owner, writes:

I have spent many years working in Spain and have watched over this time their conversion from conventional to organic grape production. I have noticed the corresponding improvement in the quality of the wines.

Coming back to New Zealand, when I saw vineyards that had a row of brown, scorched earth under the vines, the soil never looked healthy. For me, it all starts with the soil. With healthy soils, you have healthier vines, which improves fruit quality and makes it easier to produce quality wines. So when we purchased our vineyard in Martinborough, the decision to convert to organic was an easy one. 2017 was our first year of conversion, and then every year since we have been working towards the goal of being BioGro certified, which we were proud to achieve in 2023. It’s not an easy road, but a hugely rewarding one.

Known Unknown

Jules Costello, owner/manager, writes:

Known Unknown is a garagiste winery based in Ngāmotu New Plymouth, making natural and lo-fi wine and cider from organic fruit. Established in Wellington in 2018, we moved to Taranaki for vintage 2021 and haven’t looked back. Fom the outset we’ve endeavoured to use organic fruit, and from 2023 we only make wine with organic fruit. In mid2023 we closed our cellar door, instead opening a wine bar, House Wine, at 211c Devon Street East, which is open Thursday, Friday and Saturday from 2pm.

Rhys Evans of Village Vineyards has stepped up to serve as the new OWNZ

regional representative in Hawke’s Bay.

Rhys introduces himself:

My wine journey began in 2005 at EIT. I attained my BWsc/BVit concurrent degree in 2008 and went straight into my first stint of vineyard work with Sacred Hill on the gravels deerstalkers block. For five years I travelled, working vintages in Western Australia, upstate New York, South Africa and many other places. In 2015 I took an assistant winemaking position on the Naramata bench of British Columbia. It was during this time in the Okanagan where my love for organic farming began. The innovative nature of boutique producers was also particularly inspiring there. Seeing how small scale operators merged effective branding with high quality winemaking was a great learning experience.

My family has an extensive background in Hawke’s Bay horticulture. When they made a call to uproot fruit trees in favour of vines in 2019, an opportunity presented itself back home in Havelock North. I run a certified organic 2ha block of Chardonnay, Merlot and Syrah that goes into our label Village Vineyards.

Dog Point cofounder recognised

James Healy was among three Marlborough wine pioneers recognised at The Marlborough Wine Celebration Evening in November. The Wine Marlborough Lifetime Achievement Award aims to recognise nominees who have longevity of service to the Marlborough

Photos, top to bottom: Alistair Gardner of Grava Wines. The Known Unknown’s wine bar, House Wine, in New Plymouth. James Healy of Dog Point.

wine industry, have unselfishly given their time to the industry, with a lasting impact and a lifetime of achievements.

James Healy has been in the wine industry for more than 40 years. Alongside viticulturist Ivan Sutherland, he started the immensely successful Dog Point Vineyard. Dog Point is now the largest organic vineyard in New Zealand.

A creative and adventurous winemaker, James got involved in many key industry activities from the get-go, becoming a member of many inaugural knowledgesharing events for winemakers. He is highly regarded as being a mentor and supporter of many in the industry.

Honours for Te Kano

Innovative Central Otago winery Te Kano Estate took out the Agri-Science award at the Otago Farm Environment Awards on 12th April 2024.

Family-owned Te Kano has four vineyards across Otago, their own winery and bottling line and an award-winning architecturally designed cellar door on Felton Road in Bannockburn. Te Kano

Above: Te Kano collect seed from their ‘old man kowhai’ on site in order to propagate locally sourced trees, which they then plant around the vineyards.

have two organic vineyard areas which make their Life Blanc de Noir and Our Land Bannockburn Pinot Noir.

The judges were impressed with their awareness of the environment, partially based on soil maps that were generated by ground-penetrating radar before planting. Since then, they’ve gradually

built organic matter by using cover crops, mulching and crimping, while also introducing organic approaches. The judges commended the significant areas of native planting, largely using eco-sourced seeds that are grown at an on-site native plant nursery. As well as attracting native wildlife, the rejuvenated areas are protecting streams.

Better Biology Better Wine

For strong vines, consistent yields and better tasting wines* apply:

Organic Mycorrcin – to boost soil microbes that increase root growth and nutrient uptake

Organic Foliacin – to improve foliar health and resilience in times of environmental stress

Organic Digester – to stimulate decomposition microbes to recycle organic matter fast

*Asusedin2021AccoladeWinestrialfor provenyieldincreaseandbettertastingwine.

Accolade for Zephyr wine

Zephyr Wines was awarded the Vit Management Ltd Champion Organic Wine trophy at the 2023 Marlborough Wine Show, sponsored by QuayConnect.

Winemaker Ben Glover says the winning wine, Zephyr Chardonnay 2020, was produced following the family business’ first official certified organic vintage, making the award extra special.

“Zephyr began almost 40 years ago when Owen and Wendy decided to plant grapes at our family’s farm on Dillons Point Road back in 1985. We were one of the first families to plant within that subregion. We converted part of the family farm to organics in 2017, transitioning almost 20ha to organic farming practices,” Ben says. “As many organic producers will know, it takes years and some patience to convert vineyards to organic practices, but we’re definitely seeing the results now and haven’t looked back.”

Ben says of the wine: “The fruit from our 2020 vintage was handpicked and

pressed directly to barrel. It’s flinty, funky, and full of flavour. Think lime, lemon curd, spice, that’s juicy and textural and great minerality. We haven’t made it to be cellared, but we think it’s going to look spectacular in a decade, it’s got longevity and length. Chardonnay is an early-ripening grape variety so it suits our maritime, cooler climate here in Marlborough.”

Member resources: Organic winery map

The number of dots on the Organic Winegrowers NZ regional organic wine map continues to grow – see the following page of this magazine.

OWNZ gets many requests for information from consumers and trade who want to find organic wine producers. OWNZ primarily distributes this map as an electronic resource, as we periodically add new certified organic producers to the map. The PDF is available on the OWNZ website for download and printing, along with an infographic sharing organic vineyard statistics for each region. To find these, go to www.organicwinenz.com and click on “regional guide”.

If you’re newly certified organic or there’s any other reason we need to update your presence on this list, please contact Naomi: naomi@organicwinenz.com.

Photo on this page: Ben Glover of Zephyr

ORGANIC REGIONAL GUIDE TO WINERIES OF NEW ZEALAND

Halcyon

Grava

Palliser

Schubert

Atipico

Astrolabe

Churton

Clos

Corofin

Deep

Jules

Q&A: Judge Rock

To help our growing membership get to know each other, we run a Q&A with a certified organic OWNZ member in each issue of Organic Matters.

In this issue: Paul and Angela Jacobson of Judge Rock, Central Otago

What’s your position in the business?

Paul and Angela Jacobson own the business.

What are your personal career histories?

Paul has a Masters in Civil Engineering, based in Alexandra. Angela has a BA and postgraduate diploma in guidance counselling. She has had many careers including secondary teaching, guidance counsellor and arts coordinator, and most recently was manager of seven Central Otago kindergartens. For the past 10 years she has been managing the vineyard business.

Where is your vineyard located?

Alexandra, Central Otago, approximately 2 km from the town centre on Hillview Road.

What’s the history of the land?

We purchased a 10-acre orchard in 1997, and one year later we purchased the neighbouring 10-acre orchard. They were older, somewhat neglected orchards. We grew the first 2000 vines ourselves from cuttings. Planting started in 1998 after

months of work clearing the old orchards and establishing the necessary vineyard infrastructure.

What varieties are you growing, and how much of each?

10 acres of Pinot Noir and one acre of St Laurent. 70% on own roots.

What is the organic certification history of the property?

We gained full BioGro certification in 2019 after a three year transition.

Judge Rock vineyard in Alexandra
Photos courtesy of Judge Rock

What inspired you to get into organic production?

Paul did a vintage in Burgundy in 2012 with Benjamin La Roux and came back inspired to work towards transitioning to organic practices. We wanted to be kind to the land, allow our soil biome to express its terroir, look after our health and the workers’ health, and pick up on an increasing customer desire for organic wines.

What were the biggest challenges for you in becoming organic, and what are some of the most important lessons you learned along the way?

We needed to lift all the bottom irrigation lines and purchase an expensive undervine mower. We thought the mower needed to be one-sided because of the vineyard slope, but in retrospect we should have gone to a two-sided mower. We struggle to control grasses under the vines. We also have changed our spray regime to weekly over the summer to minimise our biggest risk –powdery mildew.

Why did you decide to go with undervine mowing rather than cultivation?

We talked and discussed our vineyard with viticulturalists from Felton Road, Aurum, Burn Cottage and others. Our soils here are predominantly fine sand, with pedological lime 1.2-1.5m formed by weathering of rock draining to that depth and evaporating, as our rainfall is only 300mm per year. These sands are bound by grass to prevent soil erosion, and mowing helps us build soil organic matter in the topsoil.

How have you adapted organic practices over time to suit your site, soils and climate?

In the last three years we have added an annual BioGro-certified solid fertiliser programme and introduced sheep grazing in the autumn and winter.

What outcomes have you been seeing in the land, vines and wines under organic production over time?

The vines are stronger and are less prone to wind damage. Our wines have become more complex with use of our indigenous unique yeasts. Annual production quantity is down, and we think that some vines struggle because of the undervine grasses.

How much have yields dropped since organic transition?

Initially not at all. Then after two years yields dropped from 5T/ha to 3T/ha. To counter this we are adding an organic fertiliser each year and have trialled cultivation of every second row, and yields are improving.

Proudest organic achievements?

Gold medals achieved in the NZ Organic Wine Awards, and also recent gold medals in the NZ International Wine Show for Pinot Noir and Rosé.

We introduced legal-themed names for our wines from our first certified organic vintage in 2019, and these have been very well received. (Editor’s note: In keeping with the Judge Rock winery name, recent wine releases include Guilty (Pét-Nat), Innocent (Rosé) and The Verdict (Port).)

Tell us a bit about your winemaking philosophy and practices. Wines are made by Pip Battley at Vinpro based in Cromwell, who do an excellent job. We initiated two new wines in our range –in 2018 a port made from the St Laurent grapes and in 2020 a

Top photo: Judge Rock wines

Above: Angela and Paul Jacobson collect trophies for their wines at the Australia New Zealand Boutique Wine Show.

Pét-Nat. Our Pinot Noir grapes make four different wines. Pinot Noir, Rosé, Blanc de Noir and Pét-Nat. This gives us flexibility every year in what quantities we make of each of these. Since 2018, the St Laurent grapes have all been made into port, which sells out every year and features in New Zealand Government House ceremonies.

Where are most of your wines sold?

Locally in restaurants, retail and trade. Our cellar door is busy especially over the summer months, and many people

will reorder via our website after initial purchases. Also, our online shop is constant, especially since Covid changed people’s buying habits. Some Auckland, Christchurch and Dunedin outlets sell our Pinot Noir. Since 2010 we have had a stall at the Otago Farmers Market and have been pretty well been the only wine sold there.

We attend festivals, food shows and markets where we deal directly to customers who will often repeat order via our website.

Over the years we have done some export to Australia, China, Singapore, but we need to do more export. It’s challenging to find the distributors when you are as small as us.

What are some of your goals or visions for the future of Judge Rock?

To survive to hand over our legacy to a son or grandson. We also need to secure an export market for our larger Pinot Noir vintages. The three blush wines and port all sell domestically without any problem.

Judge Rock vineyard

Protamin® N13

High nutritional efficacy with low environmental impact

• Enhances soil fertility

• Contains three fractions of organic Nitrogen for sustained release

• Activates soil microbes and root growth

• Improves tolerance to environmental stress

• Excellent compatibility and easy to spread

NUTRIENT ANALYSIS

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