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ISSUE 56 | SUMMER 2015 | FREE

Bali Below

バリ島でダイビング

North Sulawesi Revealed 北スラウェシを冒険

Yatsugatake Cycling 八ヶ岳サイクリング

OKI ISLANDS EXPLORE JAPAN'S

to her

ADVENTURE

PEOPLE

C U LT U R E

TRAVEL


SUMMER 2015

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I N S I D E I S S U E 5 6 ■ S U M M E R 2 015

23 F E AT U R E :

DIVE INTO THE OTHER ‘OKI’ ISLANDS

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30

40

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F E AT U R E S

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Explore Art and Nature in Echigo-Tsumari

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Yatsugatake Cycling 八ヶ岳サイクリング

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Dive Into the Other ‘Oki’Islands 隠岐諸島の隠れた海底アトラクション

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T R AV E L E R

INSIDE

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Bali Below バリ島でダイビング

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From the Editor

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Summer Music & Event Calendar Market Watch

編集後記

Beer Buzz

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ビアー・バズ

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ローカル 醸造

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サイクリング・ジャパン

北スラウェシを冒険

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ジャパン・アングラー

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48 49

Camp in Style with MUJI

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Hadano Stamp Rally

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North Sulawesi Revealed

After the Snow Melts Green Season Resorts

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The Local Brew Cycling Japan Japan Angler

Summer Events

Travel & Adventure Directory

トラベル & アドベンチャー ディレクトリー


SUMMER 2015


■ FROM THE EDITOR Gardner Robinson, Editor-in-Chief gardner@outdoorjapan.com

I

n the last issue of Traveler, Island Beat editor-atlarge Tim Rock introduced some of Micronesia’s best wreck dives and shared some tips on his favorite wrecks in Asia. One place on his list was Puerto Galera. Quite a few years ago I was traveling in the Philippines and did some diving there. I remember kicking back by the pool after an afternoon wreck dive, while a Dutch family’s children and some local kids met apprehensively, at first, in the pool. Within minutes they were having a blast chasing each other around, splashing in the water. I recall saying to my friend, “If I ever had kids, they are going to travel.” Fast-forward 15-or-so years and my son, Tai, who is 2 ½ years old, has more stamps in his passport than I had at age 24. Traveling with kids isn’t for everyone.

Planes, trains, taxis and boats with a squirmy child isn’t everyone’s idea of fun. However, if you are a traveler at heart, watching your kids open up to new experiences and cultures, make new friends and try new things is priceless. That being said, having a few hours to yourselves to enjoy an “adult dinner” now and then is also something on which you cannot put a price. A recent revelation occurred when some friends mentioned they had an awesome family vacation in Bali, one of our favorite destinations, largely because of the great babysitters they found there. After a little research, we were sold. Although we found some parents hired fulltime nannies while in Bali, our son hadn’t had any experience with babysitters. We decided we’d start with a few hours in the evening, so we could enjoy a relaxing

号でティム・ロックが紹介したミクロネシアの沈

ンプが押してある。子供との旅は簡単ではない。飛行

めの数時間のベビーシッターは、いつもの忙しさを忘れ

没船ダイビングリストのなかに、プエルト・ガレラ

機、電車、タクシーにボートでだだをこねはじめる子供

させてくれる最高の時間となった。

dinner. The days we shared together as a family were special, but the few hours each evening truly made it feel as if we had gotten away from it all. Our summer issue offers a heavy dose of island travel. We visit Indonesia’s diverse islands from Bali to Lombok to North Sulawesi, then stay closer to home in the Sea of Japan, as we explore the other “Oki” Islands. There is also plenty of fun to be had closer to home with some ideas for getting active and escaping the heat. Check out the exciting summer music events, fireworks festivals galore, art in amazing places, camping, cycling and other great activities in the cool mountain air. Every season is a new adventure; we wish you an amazing time wherever you get away to this summer.

という場所がある。何年も前にフィリピンを訪れたさい、

は、やっかいだと思われる方も多いだろう。しかし、読

今号のテーマはアイランドだ。バリ、ロンボク、北ス

私もダイビングをしたポイントだ。ダイビング後のとある

者のみなさまが真の旅人ならば、子供が新たな文化に

ラウェシなどのインドネシアの島々にはじまり、日本海

午後、 プールサイドでのんびりしていたら、初めて出会っ

ふれ、友達をつくり、さまざまな経験をするのがどれほど

の隠岐諸島もフィーチャしている。

たオランダ人の子供と地元の子供が、はじめはおずお

価値のあることかわかっていただけると思う。

ずと、しかしあっという間にプールの中を追いかけなが

それはそれでまちがいないのだが、たまに大人たちだ

夏には暑さを忘れさせてくれるイベントが目白押し だ。音楽フェス、花火大会、展覧会、キャンプ、山の

ら水のかけあいをはじめた。それを見ながら友人にこう

けのディナーというのもお金には変えられないものだ。

涼しい空気のもと楽しめるサイクリングなどのアクティビ

言ったのを覚えている。 「もし子供ができたら、絶対に

最近発見したのだが、私たちも大好きなバリで、友人

ティ。季節が変われば新たな冒険がはじまる。みなさま

が最高のベビーシッターを雇ったという話を聞いた。な

が最高の夏を楽しまれますように。

あちこち旅させるんだ」と。 それから15年ほど早送りして、2歳半の息子のタイの

かには旅のあいだ、ずっとベビーシッターを雇っている

パスポートには、私が24歳だったころよりたくさんのスタ

親もいたが、私たちにとっては、ゆっくり夕食を楽しむた

OUTDOOR JAPAN TRAVELER Published Seasonally Publisher Outdoor Japan Media

Media Coordinator Rie Miyoshi

Tim Rock, Robert Self, Justin Stein, Craig Yamashita

Editor-in-Chief Gardner Robinson

Contributing Editors Wayne Graczyk, Shigeo Morishita

Editor Bill Ross

Contributors Joan Bailey, Lee Dobson, Eddie Gianelloni, Bryan Harrell, Neil Hartmann, Abdel Ibrahim, Pauline Kitamura, Takashi Niwa, Tomoko Okazaki,

Translators Kumiko Kurosaki, Yoshine Lee, Eri Nishikami, Takeshi Sato, Lana Sofer

Art Director Yuki Masuko

Sales & Marketing media@outdoorjapan.com

©2015 OUTDOOR JAPAN INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. REPRODUCTION IN WHOLE OR IN PART WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION IS PROHIBITED. VIEWS EXPRESSED HEREIN ARE NOT NECESSARILY THOSE OF OUTDOOR JAPAN INC. PRINTED IN JAPAN.

AIRLINE PARTNERS

Traveler magazine is available at selected lounges, reservations counters and in-flight libraries with the following airline partners.

トラベラーマガジンは、空港ラウンジや予約カウンターや、右記航空 会社インフライト・ライブラリーにてお読みいただけます。

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Outdoor Japan Media

6-6-55 Higashi Kaigan Minami Chigasaki-shi, Kanagawa 253-0054 〒253-0054 神奈川県茅ヶ崎市東海岸南 6-6-55 Tel: (0467) 81-3212 Fax: (0467) 81-3213 EDITORIAL: editor@outdoorjapan.com ADVERTISING: ads@outdoorjapan.com SUBSCRIPTIONS: subscribe@outdoorjapan.com

www.facebook/japantraveler www.twitter.com/outdoorjapan www.youtube.com/outdoorjapan

Cover Photo Club Noah Oki


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Island Vibes and World Beats at

Earth Celebration 2015 uests can also enjoy live paint artists and massage therapists and staying in local hotels and inns with rel

S

ado Island’s annual Earth Celebration will take place Aug. 21-23. Home to the internationally acclaimed taiko group, Kodo, the sleepy island off the coast of Niigata, and beautiful Shiroyama Park, are the backdrop for this world music festival that blends traditional and contemporary Japanese culture with global artists for an unforgettable experience. Earth Celebration 2015 opens with the heart-racing beats of Kodo at Shiroyama Park. The second night features taiko artist Leonard Eto and Suar Agung, a bamboo percussion ensemble from Bali, and on the final date, all three groups will come together for a night of collaboration and creativity. Don’t miss these three Shiroyama concerts, as it may be the last time the event will be held here. Although the Shiroyama concerts are the highlight of EC, there are plenty of other activities to enjoy. Sado Island has a rich Noh history, as the first magistrate of the island was a former Noh performer, and Zeami, who perfected the art, was exiled here in the early 1400s. To celebrate this legacy, the Sado Takigi Noh Performances will be held on all three nights at the Sado Aikawa Kasuga Shrine Noh Stage. During the day, cruise around Ogi Harbor in one of Sado’s taraibune (wooden tub-shaped boat) or explore the shores and caves by kayak or standup paddleboard. Visit ancient gold and silver mines or try your hand at taiko and the island’s local Ogi Okesa dance at one of the workshops.

Photos courtesy of Earth Celebration

Practicalities There are three ferry routes to Sado Island from the Niigata mainland. Naoetsu-Ogi and Teradomari-Akadomari are the closest as well as Niigata-Ryotsu farther north. If you can’t find a place to stay in Ogi, the neighboring towns of Akadomari, Sawata, Aikawa and Ryotsu have bus services to the festival. There are also 11 camping sites around Ogi including the popular Sobama Beach. Web: www.kodo.or.jp/ec/en

By Joan Bailey

MARKET WATCH

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tarted with six vendors in 2006, the Earth Day Market in Tokyo’s Yoyogi Park was intended as a place to use Earth Day Money (an alternative currency) and to help organic farmers find buyers. Today, there are 50-60 regular sellers that include growers, producers and tasty food purveyors, with another 60 or so rotating in seasonally. Tables groan with produce, tea, jams, breads and handicrafts, mostly from the Tokyo and Chiba regions, but with some also from Shizouka, Nagano, Yamagata, Iwate and even Kobe. Customers can find a greater selection of organic and fair-trade produce and products here than almost anywhere else. Hiroshi Tomiyama, manager of the market and one of its original founders, conducted an informal census of products over the course of a year. In June, when the growing season is running nearly at its peak, he found 180 kinds of fruits, vegetables, grains and beans on offer. Even during slow times of the year, 103 varieties can be found to satisfy even the heartiest of appetites.

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Tomohiro and Nagisa Minowa bring their duck-managed organic rice—white, brown and kochi varieties regularly available—along with suntan (charcoaled rice hulls) that gardeners adore. Masaru Kurosawa, a natural farmer from Ibaraki, brings his vast selection of grains, including six kinds of rice, soba (buckwheat), wheat, along with fresh ground flours and scrumptious vegetables. Miyamotoyama Farm brings farm-fresh eggs, homemade mochi and miso that are some of the best to be had. Their homemade onigiri (rice balls) are no slouch, either. Other earth-friendly vendors are on hand to share their knowledge and wares. Yoshio Atsuo from Saitama offers sachets of cedar shavings for protecting winter wear, as well as rounds of cedar for dunking in the bath. “Just let it soak in the hot water and then soak yourself,” he advises, adding that it should last for roughly a year. Yoshio Fujikura’s

smile is the first draw to his table of bamboo, wood and rattan products. His team of trained craftsmen creates everything from graters to shopping baskets to cutting boards. True to their first objectives, Tomiyama and the Earth Day Market organizers maintain that the ability to offer a wide variety of produce and products requires supporting new organic growers. Nearly all vendors represent family-run operations that work on a small scale. Many of the farmers are literally in their first year. Some are transitioning or, like orchardist Hiroto Matsafuji, have transitioned from other jobs to farming. All are in need of customers. Most of the growers and producers who come to the market have been in the trade for less than 10 years. "The first years of farming can be very unstable. By coming here, the farmer can begin establishing a customer base that will help them become successful," said Tomiyama. He added that supporting organic farming also means supporting the diverse wildlife on, and surrounding, those farms, as well as ensuring a secure food future for everyone. Earth Day Market - Tokyo Fourth Sunday of every month Yoyogi Park Elms 10 a.m to 4 p.m. (Rain or shine) www.earthdaymarket.com *Check the website before heading out in case of the occasional change in schedule.


SUMMER MUSIC CALENDAR July 11-12 Happyfarm Music Festival

July 26 Muro Festival

Sept. 4-6 Sunset Live 2015

This eclectic festival welcomes more than 20 reggae and rock bands to the Nagano countryside. Guests can also enjoy live paint artists and massage therapists and staying in local hotels and inns with relaxing hot springs. And, yes, Happyfarm does actually happen on a farm, so guests can visit the animals after the festivities. Where: Yamada Bokujo Yagai Ongakudo Kariyon Hall, Nagano Web: www.happyfarmmusicfestival.com

This one-day festival brings in local bands for a full day of rock ’n’ roll while overlooking the harborside of Tokyo. This year, Muro Festival will be having a pre-party on July 23 at Tsutaya O-Crest as well. Where: Harumi Kyakusen Terminal, Tokyo Web: http://murofes.com

This marks the 23rd year for Kyushu’s most popular outdoor festival. The massive beachside set-up is a far cry from its humble beginnings in a parking lot. With its hippie vibe and beautiful natural location, Sunset Live is the ideal festival to end your summer. Where: Keya Kaisuiyokujo, Fukuoka Web: www.sunsetlive-info.com

July 11-12 Rokko Sun Music Think hipster, local alternative bands, and you’ll find yourself right at home at Rokko Sun Music. Music fans will get their fill at this twoday festival. Where: Rokkosan Country House, Hyogo Web: www.rokkosun-music.com

July 11-12 Peaceful Love Rock Festival If you’re in Okinawa this summer, don’t miss this festival featuring artists from Osaka, South Korea, and even some up-and-coming bands who passed the audition to enter. This festival is especially aimed to promote Okinawan rock to the rest of the world and to give amateur bands a chance to perform. Where: Okinawa City, Okinawa Web: http://peaceful-love-rock.com

July 24-26 Fuji Rock Festival Escape to Niigata’s mountains for the Fuji Rock Festival, arguably Japan’s most famous summer music festival. This year, the festival will once again be bringing in an impressive lineup of artists of all genres including Foo Fighters, Muse, deadmau5, Motorhead, Owl City and Noel Gallagher’s High Flying Birds. Where: Naeba Ski Resort, Niigata Web: www.fujirockfestival.com

Aug. 1-2 & Aug. 8-9 Rock in Japan Festival Don’t miss these two weekends of Rock in Japan featuring new line-ups each day. Held at a breezy seaside park, this music festival attracts a more mainstream selection of local rock and pop bands. Tickets sell out fast, so best to buy in advance. Where: Kokuei Hitachi Kaihin Koen (Hitachi Seaside Park, Ibaraki) Web: www.rijfes.jp

Attracting world-famous jazz artists, this festival has grown to become one of Japan’s largest international music festivals. This year, artists appearing include Bob James, Carlitos del Puerto, Eli Degibri, Herbie Hancock and Esperanza Spalding. Where: Tokyo International Forum, Tokyo Web: www.tokyo-jazz.com

Aug. 7-9 MTV Zushi Fes ’15

Sept. 6 Tohoku Reggae Sai

Nothing says summer in Japan like partying in the surf and seaside town of Zushi. MTV Zushi Fes ’15 has two main stages – the Lagoon Stage and Palm Tree Stage – during the day. Make sure you bring your swimwear to join the sunset pool party each evening. Where: Rivera Zushi Marina, Kanagawa Web: www.mtvjapan.com/zushifes2014

Go north to beautiful Tohoku for one of Japan’s biggest reggae festivals. This year 19 bands will liven up the stage, including Jesse Royal straight from Kingston, Jamaica. Where: Iwate Kogen Snow Park, Iwate Web: www.tohoku-reggaesai.com

Aug. 14-15 Rising Sun Rock Festival

This acoustic-only camp and music festival takes place in the Gunma mountains. Not only is there a great line-up of local musicians, but also plenty of workshops and kid-friendly activities for you to make the most out of this outdoor excursion with family or friends. Where: Minakami Kogen Resort 200, Gunma Web: www.newacousticcamp.com

Heading to Hokkaido this summer? Camp out at Otaru for two days of non-stop music – and by non-stop, we mean all night, with bands finishing up just before sunrise. There are also plenty of booths selling local produce, delicious seafood and craft beer. Where: Otaru, Hokkaido Web: http://rsr.wess.co.jp

Aug. 15-16 Summer Sonic

If you’re into the punk scene, Punkafoolic! is a must. Twenty-four high-energy local and foreign punk bands will crash the stage and, if you miss this one, note there’s another Punkafoolic! Shibuya Crash held on Sept. 20. Where: Harumi Kyakusen Terminal, Tokyo Web: www.punkafoolic.com

While Fuji Rock Festival is Japan’s biggest outdoor music festival, Summer Sonic is the urban alternative where you can catch the world’s top pop, R&B, rock and electric bands. This year’s international artists include Pharrell, The Chemical Brothers, Ariana Grande, Imagine Dragons and Macklemore & Ryan Lewis. Where: Makuhari Messe, Chiba, and Maishima, Osaka Web: www.summersonic.com

July 25-26 Sun Life

Aug. 29-30 Windblow

What better way to spend the weekend than at a sun ’n’ skate festival by the Japan Sea. Enjoy good tunes from local bands and DJs as well as live art, yoga, the skate park and video jockeys. Where: Kozomi Kaisuiyokujo, Tottori Web: www.sunlife-tottori.com

Blend ocean fun and music at Windblow, a relaxed seaside festival with a good mix of acoustic blues, jazz and surf rock. Where: Sagara Seaside Park, Makinohara, Shizuoka Web: www.windblow.jp

July 25 Punkafoolic! Bayside Crash

Sept. 4-6 Tokyo Jazz Festival

Sept. 12-13 New Acoustic Camp

Sept. 19-21 The Labyrinth This legendary electronic music festival in Niigata features experimental techno sounds, a “DJ teepee,” and an impressive sound system and set-up that lights up the late summer night. Get your tickets early. Where: Naeba Greenland, Niigata Web: www.mindgames.jp

Sept. 20 Kyoto Music Expo Kyoto Music Expo is a quirky one-day festival featuring seven contemporary artists. Advance tickets are sold at ¥8,888 (in Japanese, it is read as “pachi-pachi-pachi-pachi” to mimic the sound of applause). Where: Umekouji Koen Shibafu Hiroba, Kyoto Web: www.kyotoonpaku.net

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SUMMER EVENTS

Tom Curren: In Plain View

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hree-time world champion surfer Tom Curren will be bringing his surf lifestyle-inspired folk and blues tunes to Japan for his first-ever Japan music tour to promote his latest album, In Plain View. Famous for leading the surfing revolution in the early ’80s with his smooth and powerful surfing style, the quiet and reserved Curren is both a professional athlete and an artist, which, much like his surfing style, seamlessly intertwines his passion for chasing the waves and music in his life. Don’t miss a summer evening of soulful live music at the following locations: Tom Curren Tour Dates July 17: Livehouse Soma, Osaka July 22: Chelsea Hotel, Tokyo

July 18: Shelter, Wakayama July 23: Yokohama Thumbs Up, Kanagawa

July 19: Surfers, Zushi, Kanagawa July 24: Sound Shower Ark, Shizuoka

For more information, visit Surf Rock International at www.surfrockintl.com.

Factory Life: Tako’s Last Board

Photo by Ryo Ri

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at, sleep, surf, and shape…I’m happy with just these four things,” Misao Tako states in the trailer for “Factory Life,” a local documentary following Japan’s arguably top shaper, Tako, as he creates his last gun board of his life in his Chiba board factory. A gun board is made for massive waves, and Tako is no stranger to that scene, being the first Japanese to surf one of the biggest wave breaks on earth, Waimea in Oahu. Directed, filmed and edited by professional surf photographer Ryo Ri, “Factory Life” was chosen as a finalist by the International Surf Film Festival Anglet in France. The film will be shown in Japan on July 25 at Create Hamamatsu Hall and July 26 at Kamakura Shogai Gakushu Center from 7 p.m. (doors open at 6:30 p.m.). Admission fee is ¥1,300.

SUMMER FIREWORKS 2015 HANABI July 25 Tachikawa Noryo Fireworks

Aug. 4 Kanagawa Shimbun Fireworks

Aug. 15 Lake Suwa Fireworks Festival

Fireworks at Showa K inen Park. Near Tach i kawa Stat ion ( Chuo L i ne ) or Nish iTachikawa Station (Ome Line). Time: 7 – 8:30 p.m. Tachikawa, Tokyo

Thirty minutes on foot from Sakuragicho Station (Negishi Line) to the harbor park near the Intercontinental Hotel. Time: 7 – 8 p.m. Yokohama, Kanagawa

This grand fireworks display at Lake Suwa features more than 35,000 fireworks climaxing in an enormous waterfall hanabi. Fifteen minutes on foot from Kamisuwa Station to the lake. Time: 7 p.m. Suwa, Nagano  

July 25 Sumida River Fireworks

Dating back to the Edo Period, this is Tokyo’s largest (in number) hanabi with more than 20,000 fireworks. Nearly 100,000 people come to enjoy the grand display. Site 1: Between Sakura Bridge and Kototoi Bridge. Fifteen-minute walk from Asakusa Station (Toei Asakusa Line or Ginza Line). Site 2: Between Komagata Bridge and Umaya Bridge. Fiveminute walk from Kuramae Station. Time: 7:05 – 8:30 p.m. Sumida-ku and Taito-ku, Tokyo

Aug. 1 Edogawa Fireworks Fireworks along the Edo River. Nearest stations Shinozaki (Shinjuku Line) or Koiwa (JR Sobu Line). Time: 7:15 – 8:30 p.m. Edogawaku, Tokyo  

Aug. 2-3 Nagaoka Festival Fireworks

One of Japan’s three largest fireworks festivals. Fifteen-minute walk from Nagaoka Station to the Shinano River area. Time: 7:25 – 9:10 p.m. Nagaoka, Niigata

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Aug. 7 Aomori Nebuta Festival Fireworks The finale to the famous Nebuta Matsuri, with the fireworks launched from boats on Aomori Bay. Take a bus from Aomori Station to Sakae-machi; five minutes on foot to Aoiumi Park. Time: 7:15 – 9 p.m. Aomori-shi, Aomori

Aug. 8 Okutama Fireworks Enjoy hanabi atop Mt. Atago in scenic Okutama. Near Okutama Station (JR Ome Line). Time: 7:45 – 8:20 p.m. Hikawa, Tokyo

Aug. 11 Meiji Jingu Gaien Fireworks This popular fireworks festival features celebrities and musicians (entrance fee at each of the venues near Jingu Stadium). Five-minute walk from Gaienmae Station (Ginza Line) and Shinanomachi Station or Sendagaya Station (JR Sobu Line). Time: 7:30 – 8:30 p.m. Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo

Aug. 22 Chofu Fireworks

Fireworks by the Tama River. Nearest Stations are Tamagawa Station (Keio Sagami Line) and Nakanoshima Station (JR Nambu Line). The ceremony starts at 6:30 p.m. with the fireworks after. Chofu, Tokyo

Aug. 22 Omagari All-Japan Fireworks Competition One of the two top fireworks competitions in Japan, with 30 of Japan’s top fireworks makers participating. Twenty-minute walk from Omagari Station to the Omono Riverside. Time: 7:30 – 9:30 p.m. Daisen, Akita

Aug. 28 Enoshima Fireworks

Featuring the launch of 5,000 fireworks. Odakyu Enoshima Line to Katase-Enoshima Station, then five-minute walk. Time: 6 – 6:45 p.m. Fujisawa, Kanagawa


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BEER BUZZ

By Justin Stein

Getting Funky

W

hether it’s James Brown’s drummer making you jump out of your seat and dance or that bag of stinky gym clothes bringing a tear to your eye, funky stuff provokes strong reactions. This is no less true with beer, where funky brews’ wild yeast strains lend a variety of powerful flavors—from the sweet stink of over-ripe fruit to the animal aromas of a barnyard—that novices may find overpowering…or addictive. These yeasts (typically of the Brettanomyces genus, distinct from the Saccharomyces typically used for fermentation and baking) are found in nature on the skins of fruit and give farmhouse cidres their earthy and smoky flavors (see Beer Buzz, Issue #54). Vintners and brewers have long considered Brettanomyces (Brett for short) a contaminant, but recently Brett has become a popular choice for brewers who want to create complex ales. Centuries before modern microbiology, Brettanomyces gave distinctive flavors to spontaneously-fermented ales (such as the famed Belgian lambics) and British “stock” ales, aged in oak for long periods of time. Today, these “wild” yeasts have been isolated, and the modern brewer can decide to use particular strains as the primary yeast or in combination with other microbes to produce various flavors. For exa mple, t he T rappist Brasser ie d’Orval in Belgium adds Brett at the time of bottling, which causes the beer to change flavor when cellared, developing fruity and earthy characteristics over the years. Whereas in 2004, Pizza Port Brewery in San Diego created the world’s first 100 percent Brett ale, considerably fruitier and less “funky” than Brett’s use in mixed fermentations. The best examples of funky beer in Japan at this time are mostly imports. Fortunately, a wide variety of traditional spontaneously fermented Belgian lambics are available, including Cantillon Gueuze 100% Lambic Bio, Boon Geuze Mariage Parfait and 3 Fonteinen Oude Geuze. All three of these are excellent examples of geuze, a golden colored unfiltered ale. Sometimes called the “champagne” of Belgium, geuze (pronounced “gerz” in French and “kher-ze” in Flemish) is dry, tart and complex, with flavors ranging from herbal, fruity, musky and cheese-like. Geuze is a blend of lambic aged for two to three years in oak barrels and “young” (one year old) lambic, which still has enough unfermented sugars to carbonate the beer in the bottles. All traditional lambics are fermented using only microbes from the environment, so the art of creating consistently delicious beer is the responsibility of the blender who selects to combine different barrels to balance acidity and flavors produced by the interaction of the wild microbes. Sometimes brewers age lambics on fruits, particularly cherries and raspberries, producing kriek and framboise respectively. Be aware that some beers labeled “lambic” are pasteurized and flavored with fruit syrups, resulting in a product much sweeter than traditional varieties.

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It isn’t well known, but Japan was Cantillon’s first export market in 1988, and owner-brewer Jean Van Roy says Japanese sales helped keep his landmark brewery afloat “during the difficult years for lambic,” when there wasn’t much interest in this complex, traditional beer in Belgium itself. American brewers have picked up on Belgian techniques, and some have launched their own spontaneous fermentation practices. However, of those available in Japan, most use a variety of microbes (including Brett and souring bacteria such as Lactobacillus and Pediococcus) that they cultivate in oak barrels where they carry out long fermentations (often about a year). One exemplary example is The Bruery from Orange County, California, which specializes in these beers. Their Rueze is not cheap (¥2,900 for a 750-ml. bottle), but it follows the traditional blending techniques of the Belgians and is as complex as its predecessors. Their Tart of Darkness is an excellent sour stout tasting of tart cherry, prune and faint chocolate, with Brett adding some leather. Another recently introduced American funky beer is Almanac Beer Company’s Farmer’s Reserve Strawberry. This San Francisco brewer ages its Farmer’s Reserve series on local fruit in California wine barrels. This beer is quite tart, but the strawberry aromas and strong carbonation make this a good introduction to the funk. Japanese brewers have yet to really pick up on this trend, although Mark Meli (author of the excellent “Craft Beer in Japan”) notes Chateau Kamiya and Ise Kadoya have both used wild yeast collected from local trees for some of their beers, Zakkoku Kōbō’s new Cats Eyes is a kriek (secondary fermentation on cherries), and Iwate Kura’s appropriately-named Shizen Hakkō (spontaneous fermentation) might be Japan’s first lambicstyle brew. The time is ripe for Japanese brewers and drinkers alike to overcome their fears and explore the funky side of yeast.

Beer Festival Calendar July 3-5, Tanabata Beer Festival Toyama (Toyama City) July 3-12, Oktoberfest Tohoku (Sendai) July 8-12, Belgian Beer Weekend Hiroshima July 11-12, Nippon Craft Beer Festival in Shōnan (Kamakura) July 11-12, Sapporo Craft Beer Forest July 16-20, Belgian Beer Weekend Tokyo July 17-19, BeerFes Osaka July 17-20, Ikspiari Craft Beer Collection (Urayasu, Chiba) July 17-Aug. 2, Oktoberfest Himeiji July 24-26, Tsukuba Craft Beer Fest July 31-Aug. 9, Shinjuku Oktoberfest Aug. 6-16, World Beer Summit (Nagoya) Aug. 8-9, BeerFes Nagoya Aug. 12-16, Oktoberfest Kawasaki Aug. 22-23, Craft Beer Festival in Akita Aug. 28-Sept. 6, Oktoberfest Kumamoto Sept. 5-6, Whiskey & Beer Camp (Nagawa, Nagano) Sept. 15-23, Belgian Beer Weekend Tokyo Sept. 19-27, Oktoberfest Kobe Sept. 21-23, BeerFes Yokohama Sept. 25-Oct. 4, Oktoberfest Saitama


By Bryan Harrell

Hitachino Brewing Lab Kanda, Tokyo 常陸野ブルーイング・ラボ 東京・神田

K

iuchi Shuzo, an Ibaraki sake brewer with nearly 200 years of history, has become well known as one of Japan’s better microbreweries since launching its Hitachino Nest line of craft beers in autumn of 1996. Since then, the brewery has become famous, particularly in the U.S., not only for the awards the beers have earned, but also for the way the progressive Kiuchi family cultivates relationships throughout the beer industry, and the support they give importers. At present, about half of Hitachino Nest production is sold outside of Japan; quite remarkable for a Japanese microbrewery. In January, the company opened the Hitachino Brewing Lab on the site of the old Manseibashi railway station, quite close to Akihabara in Kanda Suda-cho. Despite the seriousness of the name, I found the “Lab” to be an open and casual spot to enjoy Hitachino Nest beer. There are usually about seven or eight va-

rieties on tap, and servings are in smallish 300-ml. glasses for only ¥680 each, making it easy to try several types on a single visit. It is essentially a self-service operation, but the staff is remarkably helpful when you order. I started with the superb Hitachino Nest Lager which has an aggressive yet interesting hopping style. I enjoyed the BBQ beef sandwich (¥650) on whole wheat, which was tender and easy to eat, with no spilled sauce. This was followed by a Red Rice Ale, an almost magenta purple ale with an interesting tanginess left by the antique variety of rice. I also had to try one of the snack jars and, with so many kinds available, it was difficult to choose. I settled on two kinds of olives with citrus peel (¥650) and did not regret it. Quick and easy service, low prices and a selection from one of Japan’s most interesting breweries make the Hitachino Brewing Lab a great stop when you are passing through Akihabara or Kanda.

200 年 の 歴 史がある茨 城 の 蔵 元である木 内

のはレッドライスエール。マゼンダパープル色のエールで、

酒 造は、地ビール、常陸野ネストを発売以来、 日

古代米の酸味と刺激のあるおもしろいテイストだ。 また、

本を代表する醸造所のひとつとしてよく知られている。 さまざまな賞の受賞だけでなく、 ビール業界での熱心な

COMING SOON!

種類が多く迷ってしまうが、 ビン詰めのおつまみも見逃せ ない。私が選んだのは2種類のオリーブを橘 類の皮で漬

人脈作りと輸入業者へのサポートから、 この醸造所はア

け込んだ「常陸野ふくれみかん風味のオリーブ」 (650円) 。

メリカにおいてとくによく知られている。常陸野ネスト製品

味はもちろん最高だった。

の約半分は輸出されており、 これは日本の地ビール醸造 所として注目すべき点であろう。

your best performances.

早くて安いドリンクやフードを気軽なサービスとともに提 供してくれる常陸野ブルーイング・ラボ。秋葉原や神田に

そして1月、秋 葉 原 に ほど近 い 神 田 の 須 田 町、 用事があるならば、 この日本でもっともおもしろい醸造所 旧 万世橋駅界 隈に常陸野ブルーイング・ラボがオープ

The beer that rewards

Brewed for all surfers

にぜひ立ち寄ってみてほしい。

ン。堅苦しい名前とはうらはらに、 この「ラボ」 ではカジュ

and beer lovers.

アルに常陸野ネストビールを楽しむことができる。通常 ビールは7 ∼8 種類、300mlの小グラスならたった680円 なので、ぜひさまざまなビールを試していただきたい。基 本的にセルフサービスだが、 スタッフは親切にいろいろと 教えてくれる。 私はまず、極上の常陸野ネストラガーを試した。アグ レッシブだがホップ感が興味深い。そして全 粒粉のBBQ ビーフサンド(650円) はとても優しい味で、 なによりソース がはみ出ることがなかったのはすばらしい!つぎに飲んだ

CONTACT

Hitachino Brewing Lab

陸野ブルーイング・ラボ

Phone: (03) 3254-3434 Open Daily 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., Sundays and Holidays 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. A short walk from Akihabara or Kanda Station on the JR lines. 11:00 ∼23:00 /日・祝日:11:00∼21:00 最寄駅:JR秋葉原駅/神田駅 Web: http://hitachino.cc/brewing-lab/

Photos by Sadamu Saito

N1 1-25-4 Kanda Suda-cho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 101-0041

〒101-0041 東京都千代田区神田須田町1-25-4 N1

info@antenna-america.com IMPORTED BY NAGANO TRADING CO.

SUMMER 2015

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Explore Art and Natu in EchigoTsumari By Rie Miyoshi

A

t the base of Niigata Prefecture lies the mountainous region of Echigo-Tsumari. The beautiful 760 sq.-kilometer area fully embraces Japan’s four seasons. The landscape here shifts from bright green terraced rice fields in summer to fiery autumn hues, from endless white plains blanketed in some of Japan’s heaviest snowfalls to soft pastels as sakura burst into full bloom, dotting the hills in spring. The term satoyama refers to the area between mountain foothills and farmlands. Small-scale agriculture in these regions has been sustainably developed over centuries, and Echigo-Tsumari’s agricultural history dates back 4,000 years. Like most farming regions scattered across the country, Echigo-Tsumari has an aging population. Each year young residents gravitate toward urban areas to pursue modern job opportunities, leaving behind

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a venerable ghost town of closed-down elementary schools and abandoned houses, as well as a social gap between locals and the occasional visitor. In 1994, Niigata proposed an expansion plan to bring visitors to the area through art. Art director Fram Kitagawa, who hails from the neighboring region of Joetsu, decided to revive Echigo-Tsumari by turning it into an open-air art exhibition. The international Echigo-Tsumari Art Triennale started in 2000 with 153 works of art and, over 15 years, has become one of the world’s largest art festivals. Bound by the simple theme that “Humans are part of nature,” artists work with and connect with locals; after all, it is their landscape that is the canvas. In return, they strive to reflect that collaborative relationship, spanning generations and cultural backgrounds, to the audience. Today, almost 200 installations by artists from the world

over are spread out among Echigo-Tsumari’s 200 villages in 10 sections. This deliberately forces visitors to travel, wander and appreciate nature, the inspiration of these artworks. Over the years, old schools and homes have been renovated into museums, cafés and even inns. The “Shedding House” gets its name from the countless carvings etched in the wooden floors and walls of this abandoned 200-year-old building, signifying the carvers’ shedding of their old self while appreciating the traditional elements as well as the changing community of the region. Visitors can stay at this traditional Japanese house between late April and early November for ¥3,000 a night per person (reservations required), and enjoy a homemade meal from a nearby restaurant that uses locally sourced ingredients. This house overlooks the wide steps characteristic of the rice fields of Hoshi Toge Village.


ure Echigo Tsumari Art Triennial 2015 Web: www.echigo-tsumari.jp English Speaking Tours: Contact info@tsumari-artfield.com or visit www.japanican.com/en/tour/detail/BUS1KRBS001C EVENT SCHEDULE Aug. 13-14: Dai-Ichi no Bon Experience an authentic Japanese summer at “Dai-ichi no Matsuri,” a traditional bon dance festival. As one of the most famous festivals in the region, this celebration attracts numerous visitors including Japanese celebrities. Begins at 6 p.m. Location: Matsudai “Nou Budai.”

Matsudai Tanaba Bank was started to help aging locals with their farming industry. Every year, a group of volunteers assist in harvesting the rice. Ironically enough, most of the younger volunteers are city folks seeking an escape from the corporate life. To them, Echigo-Tsumari is more than an art field – it is a creative community and, for some, a new home. For visitors who want to sneak in some hiking or water activities during the trip, Oregon-based shoe company KEEN, one of Echigo-Tsumari’s sponsors, will be renting out trekking shoes at its exhibit, “Deai,” which is near Mt. Akiyama. Shoes are then returned at Kinare Matsudai Station. Four designs of their waterproof shoes are inspired by exhibits. “We’re not just installing art for the sake of aesthetics. Each piece is meant to connect viewers with the

surrounding nature. The artwork and its environment go hand-in-hand,” says Tomoko Yamaguchi, who is part of NPO Echigo-Tsumari Satoyama Collaborative Organization. She helps harvest rice in the summer and clears the rooftops from snow in winter. “It’s hard work and, honestly, I thought I was going to die (from shoveling snow),” she laughs. “But I love seeing the results of cultivating Echigo-Tsumari.” The Echigo-Tsumari Art Triennale 2015 is held from July 26 to Sept. 13, but the art field is open year-round. It may take art enthusiasts nearly a week to fully cover the whole exhibition. However, if you don’t have that much time, you can pick and choose which exhibits to see, and there are English-speaking tours. In addition, a slew of cultural performances, traditional festivals, local cooking and art workshops will be held throughout the Triennale.

Aug. 16: Ondekoza Bon Festival Enjoy the heart-pumping beats of the taiko drums as they ring in the Obon season. Begins at 6 p.m. Location: Matsudai “Nou Budai.” Aug. 23: Yoshiaki Ito / Tour de Tsumari 2015 Cheer on more than 1,000 people as they cycle 120 kilometers through the region on this annual tour. Architect Yoshiro Ito started this bike tour in 2006. Location: Mion Nakasato. Sept. 5-6: Yubiwa Hotel / Heavenly Love III Built to protect the roads from heavy snowfall, the Okura Snowshed will serve as a platform for Yubiwa Hotel / Heavenly Love III, a bizarre live performance telling a fictitious story while also reflecting the history of the land. Time: 1 p.m. on Sept. 5 and 6 p.m. on Sept. 6. Location: Okura Snowshed.

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Inakadate Tanbo Art

B

ack in 1993 the villages in Inakadate, a small town in Aomori Prefecture, started rice planting tours to give visitors the opportunity to experience traditional rice farming done by hand as it has been since the Yayoi Period (300 B.C. to 300 A.D.). Following those first tours, they began making a mural in the rice fields of Mt. Iwaki (岩木山) one of Tohoku’s most beautiful mountains. To do this they used three kinds of rice; a purple rice called murasakiine (紫稲), a yellow rice called kiine (黄稲) and Tsugaru Roman (つが るロマン), a local Aomori variety. In 2002, to commemorate the 10th anniversary of the tours and the tanbo (rice field) art, the villagers created an original design of Iwaki-san and the moon, which won an award from NHK, landing the Tohoku village and their art in newspapers and on TV. The following year, they tried more complicated designs, including a mural of the Mona Lisa. People began coming from all over Japan to see these unusual creations, which became known simply as Tanbo Art (田んぼアート). In 2004, they took their art form to another level, using designs that incorporated a perspective effect, making them more beautiful and three-dimensional when seen from observation decks. Inakadate attracted 30,000 visitors that year and then 130,000 the following summer. In 2006, they added two new varieties of red rice in their

design of Hakusai’s God of Wind and Thunder, and again more people came to see this “field of dreams.” During the following two years, they added two new kinds of rice,

yukiasobi (ゆきあそび) which has white leaves, and the red-tipped iwaiakane (祝い茜). They used five crops for their 2010 designs and seven varieties in 2011. If you are looking to cool off this summer, northern Japan is the place to be. If you go, don’t miss Inakadate’s Tanbo Art, the best time for viewing the beautiful creations is July and August.

Getting There The fastest way to get to Inakadate Village from Tokyo is to fly from Haneda Airport to Aomori (one hour and 15 minutes), then take a bus to Hirosaki (60 minutes). From Hirosaki, take the Konan Tetsudo Line to Inakadate Station (24 minutes). If you rent a car from the airport, it is about a 40-minute drive to Inakadate. If you prefer not to fly, get on the Shinkansen from Tokyo to Shin-Aomori (three hours,

Empowering the Lost Children of Japan

F

or many kids, summer is a time of camping and spending time with family in the great outdoors. Unfortunately, in Japan, more than 30,000 children are currently in welfare care due to parental abuse, poverty, illness or death in the family. To support this often overlooked issue, English

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Adventures founders Dave Paddock and Jeff Jensen established Mirai no Mori, a five-day camp in Saitama Prefecture to mentor and support these children. “We asked ourselves, ‘Who wouldn’t be able to come to summer camp?’ That was when we saw the need to mentor these orphaned or abused children in a fun, outdoor

37 minutes), then take the Ou Line to Hirosaki (36 minutes) and then on to Inakadate Station. There are two Tambo Art fields, and both are about a five-minute taxi ride from Inakadate Station. The first field is on the east side of Inakadate City Hall, and the second field is located at the “Michi no Eki” at Inakadate Yayoi no Sato.

Accommodation There are no places to stay in Inakadate Village. Visitors are advised to book at one of the hot spring hotels in Kuroishi or Hirakawa City (平川市) or business hotels in Hirosaki City (弘前市).

Web Connection Inakadate Village: www.vill.inakadate.lg.jp Aomori Sightseeing Guide: www.en-aomori.com/ scenery-025.html

way,” explains Paddock, as he recalls sitting down with his colleagues to see how they could contribute to Japan’s successful outdoor industry. In 2011, English Adventures started inviting these children to its already-existing camps. However, it was apparent that a separate curriculum to give these children a more nurturing experience was needed; thus Mirai no Mori was conceived in 2013. Mirai no Mori involves numerous outdoor challenges to transform the children’s perspectives about their environment. Trust is an important focus in this camp, as many of these children avoid taking risks because they are afraid of disappointing themselves or those around them. With almost a 1:2 ratio of counselors to students, the camp serves elementary to high school students in the Tohoku and Kanto areas and holds about 25 to 30 children per camp. This year’s camp runs from July 27 to Aug. 28, with each camp lasting five days and four nights. Mirai no Mori is a 100 percent NPO project sponsored by brands including Montbell, KEEN and Lush. This year, in order to give these children an even more exciting and memorable summer, Mirai no Mori is hoping to offer whitewater rafting for all its participants. However, the camp is relying on crowd funding to make this happen. If you’d like to support the project, you can make a donation at https://readyfor.jp/projects/mirai-nomori_rafting. Mirai no Mori Web: www.mirai-no-mori.jp


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Paul Chetwynd’s cycling career has spanned more than two decades, from beginnings at the foot of Mt. Seymour on Vancouver’s North Shore, where freeriding was born, to the base of the Yatsugatake Mountains in southern Nagano, an outdoor playground he now calls home. 世界中のダウンヒル(DH)やクロスカントリー (XC)イベントを転戦し、 日本でのトレイルガイドやコース造成にかかわってきたポール。 彼の最新の“二輪の冒険”はハードコアなフリーライドツアーはもとより、 美しい8つのピークを望む八ヶ岳周辺でペダルを漕ぎたい人たちへと向かって走りだした。

E K A T A G U YATS

CYCLING

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八ケ岳サイクリング


Paul has competed internationally in downhill (DH) and cross-country (XC) events, guided trails and built courses for events in Japan. His latest two-wheeled venture aims to go beyond "freeride" tours for hardcore clients and introduce cycling around Yatsugatake’s pristine eight peaks to anyone with the desire to spin their wheels. フリーライディング誕生の地であるバンクーバーの北海岸にあるマウントシーモアの麓にはじまり、 今や自分の“ホーム”と呼ぶアウトドアプレイグラウンドの長野県南部に位置する八ヶ岳の里山まで、 ポール・チェトウィンドの自転車人生は20年以上に渡って走り回ってきた。

Outdoor Japan   How old were you when you started mountain biking? Paul Chetwynd   I started riding when I was 20 as rehabilitation for a broken tibia and fibula. The leg got stronger; my mind and body as well. My first race was in 1983 when I was 22. O J   What was it like growing up in North Vancouver, British Columbia, amid the MTB community there? PC   I was lucky to have ended up living right at the bottom of Mt. Seymour. My friends opened the first MTB specific bike shop in Canada. We had no idea that our local mountain was the perfect training ground; it was just super fun to try to ride the trails up and down without getting off our bikes. Now 30 years later, Mt. Seymour is ground zero for freeriding. We definitely got schooled in a hurry.

アウトドア・ジャパン (以後OJ)マウンテンバイクをはじめたのは何歳の頃でしたか? ポール・チェトウィンド(以後PC)  20歳の頃、骨折した頸骨と腓骨のリハビリとして乗り はじめたんだ。次第に脚力もあがり、それと同時に精神的にも身体的にも強くなったね。

1983年、22歳のときに初めてレースに出場したよ。

O J ブリティッシュコロンビア州、ノースバンクーバー。そんなマウンテンバイク・コミュニ ティのなかで育ってみてどうだったかな?

PC   マウントシーモアの麓での生活にたどり着いたのはラッキーだったね。カナダで初の マウンテンバイク専門店をオープンしたのは僕の仲間だったんだ。自分たちはただ一度も 自転車から下りずに、ひたすらトレイルを上り下りしていたのが超楽しかっただけだから、自 分たちのローカルマウンテンがトレーニングに最適な場所だなんて考えもしなかったよ。そ してあれから30年、マウントシーモアは今やフリーライディングの “グラウンド・ゼロ” さ。僕た ちが急ぎ足で修行させられたのは確かだね。

O J   What did you enjoy more, downhill (DH) or cross country (XC)? PC   That’s a hard question because I love them both; when you are in a XC race you put yourself in a painful place, always on the edge of your physical capabilities, which in turn make it a very mental game. Nothing compares to the feeling you get when all the training you have done comes together and you hit the “zone.” Wish I could have found it a bit more often. Downhill mountain biking should be in the Olympics. It is like the downhill in alpine skiing: full-on intensity for three or four minutes; mistakes are costly, and it makes for great spectator viewing. Only a few sports duplicate the adrenaline high you get from completing a hard DH.

O J ダウンヒル(DH)とクロスカントリー(XC)、どっちが楽しい? PC   両方好きだから、難しい質問だね。XCレースでは自分を追い込み、つねに体力の限 界と戦うと同時に精神との戦いにもなる。それまでのトレーニングの成果が実り、そして完 成された “ゾーン” へと飛び込む、その感覚はほかでは味わえない。僕がその “ゾーン” をもう ちょっと見つけられたらよかったけどね。  ダウンヒルはオリンピック種目になるべきだよ!3、4分つづく激しいライディング。ミスは許 されない。そして観客は魅了される。まるでアルペンスキーのダウンヒルのようさ。ハードな

DHほどアドレナリンを倍増させるスポーツは数少ないね。

O J   What brought you to Japan? PC   I was sent here to race for three months back in 1992. I had just had a horrible World Championship race, and my boss asked if I was interested in doing something different for a season. Twenty-two years later and I am still here.

O J 日本へ来たキッカケは何ですか? PC   1992年にレースで3ヶ月間日本に来たことがあってね。そのときの世界大会は最悪 って聞いてき の結果で、そのときボスが “1シーズンでもなにか違うことをしてみたらどうだ?” たのさ。それから22年経ったいまでもまだココにいるよ!

O J   Why did you decide to make southern Nagano home? PC   I spent my first year in Japan living in Hakone, but it is a bit too touristy for me with lots of buses and people all over the place. I spent a lot of time driving to and from the Nagano area and, when I was asked to stay here longer, I already knew this area was for me. The area around Mt. Yatsugatake doesn’t get the big snow as does the Japan Alps up north, and on the Yamanashi side of the mountains is where the least rainfall in Japan is recorded every year. That and the clean air and water make it a fantastic area for cycling.

O J 南長野をホームとして選んだ理由は何ですか? PC   日本に来た最初の年は箱根に住んでいたんだけど、人や観光バスで溢れかえってい てあまりに観光地っぽ過ぎたんだよね。やがて長野と軽井沢を行ったり来たりしているな かで、もっと長く長野にいたらと言われた時には、すでにココが自分の場所だとわかってい たよ。  豪雪地帯で有名な北アルプスよりも八ヶ岳周辺は雪も少ないし、山梨側では毎年日本 でもっとも少ない降水量を記録している。それに加えてきれいな水と空気がサイクリングに 最高の環境を与えているよ。

O J   How long have you been running Freeride Adventures (FRA)? PC   After racing professionally for 10 years here, I had a lot of people asking to take them riding and help them get better on the trails. So it just seemed a natural progression for me to start Freeride Adventures. I have always run FRA as a riding experience and not a school or clinic. We take only one group each day and try and keep each group size to about six to eight riders of similar riding ability, then give that group a good day’s outing that suits their level. O J   When did you start to envision the Yatsugatake Cycling base? PC   I have been looking around this area for the right spot to do something to try to promote cycling to all the people who seem to come up here from the city by car. I see them all over the place driving from one store to another looking for something to do. I hope to introduce them to the beauty of cycling. Last fall I found a piece of land I wanted, so I jumped in.

O J フリーライド・アドベンチャーズ(FRA)をはじめて何年ですか? PC   10年間プロとしてレースをつづけた後、大勢の人からトレイルライディングの指導や 案内を頼まれたんだよ。だからフリーライド・アドベンチャーズをスタートしたのも自然な流れ だったのさ。スクールでも講習会でもないFRAはつねに自転車に乗る楽しさを伝えてきた。 一日一組限定で、なるべく6∼8名の同じライディングレベルのグループに留め、そして彼ら の技量に合った最高の一日を提供する。

O J 八ヶ岳サイクリングベースを想い描きはじめたのはいつ頃ですか? PC   都会から車でやって来る人達にサイクリングを広め、体験してもらう場として完璧な 場所をこのエリアで探していた。いろいろなお店をハシゴしながらなにかすることを探してい る人を大勢見てきたからね。そこで僕はサイクリングのすばらしさを伝えたかったのさ。去年 の秋にピッタリの土地を見つけ、すぐに飛びついたよ。

SUMMER 2015

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YATSUGATAKE

CYCLING

O J   How will Yatsugatake Cycling differ from FRA? PC   FRA has always had a reputation, mostly true, for having rides that are quite difficult. It is where I come from and what I love the most, but it also detracts from attracting new faces. With Yatsugatake Cycling, I want to make it easy for all ages and abilities, if that means driving up the mountain to start or having a van come and pick you up at the end of the ride; no problems, we can do it. The main thing is to enjoy the day and, if a few people catch the cycling bug, all the better. O J   What is Yatsugatake Cycling? PC   We are a bike rental/coffee shop. We have good quality road bikes, cross bikes and MTBs available in all sizes. Self-guided rides with van pick-up and/or drop-off. Guided road tours are also available.

O J 八ヶ岳サイクリングがFRAと違うところは何ですか? PC   かなりハードなライダーたちが参加することでFRAの名前はつねに知れ渡ってきたこと はたしかだ。僕の原点でありいちばん好きなところ。だが同時に初心者を引き入れることか らは離れている。僕は八ヶ岳サイクリングを手軽にすべての世代やレベルに楽しんでもら いたい。たとえ山の頂上のスタート地点や、サイクリングの終点までバンで送迎しに行くこ とがあっても、なにも問題はない。いちばん大切なのはみんなが楽しい一日を過ごすこと。 そしてもしそのなかの何人かのなかでサイクリングの “虫” が騒げばもっとイイだろうね。

O J 八ヶ岳サイクリングとは何ですか? PC   バイクレンタル兼コーヒーショップさ。クォリティのいいロードバイク、クロスバイク、 そしてマウンテンバイクをさまざまなサイズで用意しているよ。自分たちでサイクリングに行 くお客さまにはバンでの送迎サービスを。もちろん、ガイド付きのロードツアーも開催して いるよ。

O J   What makes cycling in the Yatsugatake area special? PC   The variety of riding is great around here; there are roads with short climbs or roads with 20-kilometer climbs that go right over the mountain in our backyard. There’s really something for everyone. O J   Do you operate tours year-round? PC   We operate cycling tours in this area from April to December, and then we also take private groups for road tours to the southern islands during the winter. Starting this winter, we will offer snowshoe tours from the Yatsugatake Cycling base. ✤

O J 八ヶ岳エリアのサイクリングで特別なことはありますか? PC   短い登り坂から20kmの山越えをする道までさまざまなライディングがこの近くで楽しめ るよ。だれにでもピッタリな道がかならずあるからね。

O J ツアーは通年で開催していますか? PC   このエリアでのサイクリングツアーは4月から12月まで開催しているよ。そして冬場は プライベートグループを対象に南の島でロードツアーを開催している。今年の冬から八ヶ 岳サイクリングベースを拠点にスノーシューツアーもはじめる予定だ。✤

YATSUGATAKE CYCLING Tel: (0266) 71-6688 E-mail: info@yatsugatakecycling.com Web: www.yatsugatakecycling.com  Address: 1-4-7 Nagare Shimizu, Chelto no Mori, Toyohiro, Chino, Nagano 391-0213

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Cycling Japan:

A JOURNEY TO EXPERIENCE THE LOCAL LIFE サイクリング̶それは

土地の暮らしを感じる旅

By Takashi Niwa Translated by Sakae Sugahara

ROUTE

25

#

NORTHERN ISLANDS TO THE TIP OF JAPAN (HOKKAIDO)

Cape Soya Cape Noshappu Rebun Island

最果ての島巡りと 日本最北端(北海道)

Wakkanai Wakkanai Airport

HOKKAIDO Rishiri Island

Mount Rishiri is symmetrically shaped like Mt. Fuji, but more peaked and jagged. 富士山よりもシャープで美しい姿をみせる利尻山

T

his route hops two islands off the coast of northern Hokkaido - Rishiri Island with Mount Rishiri towering right above the sea, and Rebun Island with its heavenly wild flower gardens. Once back onshore the big island, let’s crank on to the northernmost point of Japan, Cape Soya. After arriving at Wakkanai, Japan’s northernmost airport, we stay overnight in the port city and take the first ferry the next morning to Rishiri Island. After unloading luggage at a local minshuku near the ferry terminal, we start our 53-kilometer tour around the island. From the rugged landscape of the northern shore along the Sea of Okhotsk, to the expanse of idyllic pasture, we never get bored of the changing scenery.

Another ferry and we land on Rebun Island, known as a paradise of wild flowers. The best season for the flowers is July. There is no road going around the island and the distance between the southern town of Kafuka and northern Funadomari is 30 kilometers round trip. The 10-kilometer trip over the hill from Kafuka to the fishing port of Motochi and back is a beautiful addition to the ride. After ferrying back to Wakkanai, let’s pedal north along the coast on Route 238 to Cape Soya, the northernmost point of Japan. An inland detour from R238 is recommended, where rolling hills and expansive ranches unfold beneath your eyes. On a sunny day, you will be able to see Sakhalin across the channel and truly realize you are at the northern end of Japan.

海道北部の海上にそびえる利尻山(利尻島)や、

島へ。花のピークは7月だ。一周できる道はなく、南側の

野生のお花畑といわれる礼文島を、フェリーで結

町・香深から北端の船泊までは往復30km。香深から山

んでサイクリングし、日本最北端の宗谷岬をめざそう。

越えをして西に向かい、元地漁港までの往復10kmもす

 稚内空港から市内に移動。朝いちばんのフェリーで利

ばらしい。

尻島に渡り、港の近くの民宿に荷物を置いて、自転車

 稚内にフェリーで戻り、海沿いの国道238号を30 km走

で島一周約53kmにチャレンジしよう。荒々しいオホーツク

ると日本最北端の宗谷岬である。途中、国道238号をそ

の海、放牧場など、変化に富んだ風景が待っている。

れて、広々とした牧草地や、丘陵地を走るのもおすすめ。

 利尻島からフェリーで “ワイルドフラワーの楽園”礼文

天気がよければサハリンも望め、 “最果て” を実感できる。

! Takashi Niwa actively organizes guided tours around the world, from the back alleys to remote villages WofAYTokyo GIVEA in Tibet. He has authored many books including “Otona no Tame no Jitensha Nyūmon” (Nihon Keizai Shinbun Shuppansha). His company, Niwa Cycling Tours (www.ncycling.com) organizes tours in Japan and around the world.

:にわサイクリングツアーズ(www.ncycling.com) を主宰し、東京の路地裏か 丹羽隆志(にわ たかし) らチベットまで、地球上のどこかをガイド。 『大人のための自転車入門』(日本経済新聞出版社刊)な ど著書多数。 SUMMER 2015

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Sayonara Tuna? さらば、 マグロ?

H

ow would you feel if tomorrow you went to the market or your favorite sushi shop and there was no bluefin tuna available? What is the reason? Because the biomass is shot and the species is commercially extinct. Believe it or not, this is likely to be a reality in Japan very soon, where more bluefin is consumed than any other country. We all catch tidbits of news regarding the state of tuna fisheries around the globe and how a lack of regulations or illegal fishing coupled with the demand for tuna sushi has led to overfishing. The species is transoceanic and is taken commercially from many points around the globe, which makes the issue of tuna conservation a global effort. However, Japanese have the biggest stake in the outcome of global conservation efforts, and it is arguable that Japan should take the

lead in advocacy for the protection of bluefin tuna. This is not only because 80 percent of the bluefin caught worldwide ends up in Japan, but also because Japanese territorial waters on the Sea of Japan side are the spawning grounds for Pacific bluefin tuna. In these waters some very unsustainable commercial fishing activities are allowed to take place. Specifically, the repeated use of giant purse seines to scoop up entire shoals of bluefin tuna has led to a sharp decline in not only numbers, but also the size of fish. As the number of spawning fish has declined, there has been an increase in purse seine catches of juvenile fish not even close to sexual maturity. This practice still occurs despite advances in sonar technology, which can actually indicate the approximate size of tuna being targeted.

The most expedient means of protecting Pacific bluefin from extinction would be the implementation and enforcement of regulations by the fisheries agency, which ban the use of purse seines, but the politics and economics surrounding this issue have thus far made the goal of establishing concrete protections elusive at best. Thus the fate of the species is largely in the hands of Japanese consumers who can demand transparency throughout the supply chain and choose to not buy tuna caught using unsustainable methods. The time has come for everyone to get informed, discuss the issue and recognize their own agency in protecting bluefin tuna, which we all want to be around for future generations. Collectively we can make a difference.

し明日、 おいしい本マグロを食べたいと思ったときに、

恩恵をいちばん受けるのは日本だといってまちがいなく、 日

太平洋クロマグロを絶滅から守るためにいちばん効果的

行きつけの鮨屋にも、近所の魚屋やスーパーにも本マ

本にはマグロの資源維持管理を率先しておこなう責務があ

な手段と思われるのは、漁獲規制、 とくにこれらの産卵親魚

グロが売ってなかったらどう感じるのだろうか?なぜ?それは

る。これは、 クロマグロの世界総水揚げ量のおよそ8割が日

の群れを一網打尽にしてしまう巻き網を禁止にし、取り締ま

つまり乱獲により、太平洋クロマグロ(本マグロ) の資源量

本で消費されているからだけではなく、太平洋クロマグロの

りをおこなうことだ。 しかし、 ことはお金になるクロマグロであ

が底をついてしまったからだ。信じられないことかもしれない

貴重な唯一の産卵場が日本の排他的経済水域内の日本

る。経済的側面に政治が絡み、有効な資源維持管理への

が、 マグロ消費量が世界でも飛びぬけて多い日本で、 そんな

海側にあるからだ。

日が間近に迫っている。

この貴重なマグロの産卵場では、過去10年間に渡り産

道のりは完全に閉ざされていなかったとしても、 きわめて困難 であるといわざるを得ない。

鮨文化が各国に浸透し、世界中で鮨ネタとしてのマグロ

卵親魚を一網打尽にしてしまう巻き網漁の操業が認められ

それゆえに、太平洋クロマグロの将来を握るカギは日本の

の需要が高まるなか、各国のマグロ漁場において規制のな

ている。 これにより、過去10年間で太平洋クロマグロの資源

消費者が握っているともいえる。販売店に流通ルートの透

さが乱獲につながっているという話がニュースの端々に流

量は一気に激減。大きな魚が獲れなくなった巻き網船団は

明性を求めることもできるし、持続可能な漁法以外で獲られ

れているのをすこしは耳にしたことがある読者も多いと思う。

ターゲットを産卵親魚だけでなく、未成熟の幼魚(ヨコワ・メ

たマグロは買わないという選択もできる。

マグロは広大な海を回遊する魚で、世界各国に漁場がある

ジ) に移してまで乱獲をつづけている。最新鋭のソナーを装

私たちの未来にもマグロがいて欲しいからこそ、太平洋ク

ことが、 ことさら問題をややこしくしている。マグロの資源管

備しているこれらの巻き網船団は、漁獲する魚のサイズ、群

ロマグの資源維持管理について、 いまこそ皆がそこで起き

理には、各国が足踏みを揃えた努力が必要なのだ。

れの大きさなど、手に取るようにわかったうえでの意図的な

各国が協力しておこなうべきマグロの資源維持管理だが、 未成魚の漁獲である。

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ている事態を知り、考え、 自分でできることを話し合う時がき たのだ。皆の力を合わせれば、事態を変えることができる。


NT I E V I

O TH E OT HE R

‘OKI’ ISLANDS 隠岐諸島の隠れた海底アトラクション

The vast majority of diving in Japan takes place along the Pacific coast and the warmer southern “Oki” islands of Okinawa, but the Sea of Japan coast is not to be overlooked, contends Bonnie Waycott, as she travels to the Oki Islands to sample Japan's lesser-known underwater attractions. 日本のダイビングスポットといえば太平洋岸やより暖かな沖縄が有名だが、 日本 海 側も見 逃せない。ボニー・ワイコットによる 隠 岐 諸 島の隠れた海 底アトラクションをぜひお楽しみいただきたい。

Photo by Club Noah Oki

D

SUMMER 2015

23


Photo by Nick Bradley

Photos by Club Noah Oki

T

he Oki Islands consist of four large inhabited islands and about 180 smaller uninhabited ones. Dogo Island (or Okinoshima) is the largest, followed by the Dozen Islands that consist of Nishinoshima, Chiburijima and Nakanoshima. Fishing, agriculture, delicious seafood (turban shell, rock oyster) and spectacular scenery are among the many aspects that make this part of Japan so unique. The Oki Islands may not often appear on the dive destination radar, but that is precisely why being able to explore their underwater world is a special experience. It is also the first place in Japan where night diving began. Volcanic structures, sponge-covered rocks, seaweed, carpets of sand—and that's just scratching the surface.

WHERE TO DIVE IGURI Nishinoshima Island After a 10-minute boat journey and a descent to about 16 meters, the adventure here begins. Iguri is a simple spot to navigate with two rocks stuck together while the dive boat's anchor is carefully placed in the middle. At a depth of about 20 meters, the site does not appear to be the most exciting,

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with flat sandy areas and patches of seaweed growth here and there. In fact, it's a scene very typical of the Sea of Japan, but for those after macro life, it is full of little discoveries. Sponges and tiny nudibranchs cling to rocky formations that look as though they resemble ancient and ornate architecture, and even seem to vibrate with schools of fish and small swaying branches of seaweed. Foraging through this leafy green seaweed reveals a plethora of nudibranchs that flaunt their colors, orange starfish and little crabs that frustrate your macro lens with their shyness as they scuttle away when you approach. Those with a keen eye may also notice a slight movement of seaweed followed by a tiny fish or two nestled under the greenery. The interaction with schools of chicken grunts that patrol the rocks, yellowfin amberjack that quickly swarm all around and damselfish that congregate together all make for wondrous diving. With a maximum depth of about 16 to 20 meters, the ascent can be done very slowly alongside the rocks before it's time for the journey back to the surface. Don't forget to stop and look around at the schools of fish flitting around while the sunbeams pierce the water and dance above.

HOSHI-NO-KAMI-SHIMA Nishinoshima Island Although it takes 30 minutes by boat to reach this site, the journey is well worth it. Hoshi-no-kami-shima is a small, uninhabited island with a maximum depth of about 25 meters and most suited to advanced divers due to its current that can sometimes be fairly strong. The current brings with it a huge advantage—nutrients that sweep over the water column and bring the sea to life by enticing schools of fish that dine on plankton. The walls of Hoshi-no-kami-shima plummet into the dark depths below and are known for their prolific life including a plethora of blennies, seaweed, sponges and tiny critters. Beautiful soft corals seem to plume up from the seabed, clumping and sprouting alongside tube and barrel sponges that lie over the rocks, all offset by an ocean that can switch from a greenish tinge to a blue one when long rays of sunlight pierce through the surface. The island is home to groups of chicken grunts and amberjack that drift slowly by and clouds of shimmering damselfish that flit in and out among the various soft corals and use them for their daytime hangout. There are some rocky patches worth taking time over, as you never know what might be hiding in the little holes and dark patches—


It's a scene very typica l of the Sea of Japan, but for those afte r macro life, it is full of little discov eries.

日本海ではありふれた光景で はあるが、ここでは、 マクロな生命活動を探してい るダイバーにも、 じつはさまざまな小さな発見が 待っている。

4

つの大きな無 人 島と1 8 0 前 後の無 人の小 島 からなる隠岐の島は、いちばん大きい島後、西

ダイビングスポット

に、岩を伝ってゆっくり上昇することができる。上昇中は、 水中までとどく太陽の光のなか、ひらひら泳ぐ魚の群れを

イグリ(西ノ島)

見るのをお忘れなく。

キなどの海の幸、そして息をのむようなうつくしい景色がこ

ボートで約 10 分。到着すると、岩のあいだに注意深くアン

の島の特徴だ。

カーをおろす。水深 20mになると平坦な砂底にところどこ

星神島(西ノ島)

 ダイビングの目的地として隠岐の島の名があがることは

ろ海藻が生えているだけで、とくにエキサイティングな感じ

ノ島、知 夫里島、中ノ島をふくむ12の島で構成 されている。漁業や農業が盛んで、サザエやカ

 水深約16m、くっついたふたつの岩が目印のイグリへは

 ボートで30 分ほどかかるが、訪れる価値がじゅうぶんあ る場所である。星神島は小さな無人島で、水深は最大

あまりないが、だからこそ、この地のダイビングは特別だ。

ではない。

またここはナイトダイビング発祥の地でもある。火山様の

 たしかに日本海ではありふれた光景ではあるが、ここ

トである。海流が水柱の上を通って豊かな栄養を運んでく

25m、流れが比較的強いこともあり、上級者向けのスポッ

地形や海綿や海藻におおわれた岩、砂のカーペットなどは

では、マクロな生命活動を探しているダイバーにも、じ

れることで、プランクトンをエサにする魅力的な魚の群れが

このエリアで見ることができるダイビング体験のほんの一

つはさまざまな小さな発見が待っている。華麗な古代建

やってくるのだ。

部である。

築のような岩 場にはくっついた海 綿や小さなウミウシ、

 星神島のウォールは暗い深みへと真っ逆さまに落ちてい

はまるで魚の群れや揺らぐ海藻に反応しているように見

く。ギンポ、海藻、海綿や小さな生物など、このエリアは

える。

豊かな海洋生命でよく知られる。岩の上のチューブスポン

 緑の海藻のあいだを探せば、鮮やかな色をみせびらか

ジやバレルスポンジのそばで豊かに群れをなしているうつ

すかのように歩いているウミウシの大群や、オレンジ色のヒ

くしいソフトコーラルが、水中へ届く太陽の光とともに、グ

トデ、それから、近づくとすぐに逃げてしまうカニはマクロレ

リーンやブルーに変化する海の色に彩られているのはすば

ンズでの撮影はもどかしいかもしれない。

らしい光景だ。

 さらに目を凝らしてみると、海藻のわずかな揺らぎのなか

 このあたりは、昼 間のたまり場にしているソフトコー

には、その緑の中に身を休める魚を見つけることができる

ラルのあいだを軽やかに泳ぎまわるスズメダイや、その

はずだ。岩場を泳ぐイサキや、群れで移動するキハダマグ

すぐそばで泳ぐイサキやブリの宝庫だ。時間をかけて見

ロ、スズメダイの群れなど、ここはすばらしいダイビングを

る価 値のある岩 場も多く、隅々まで調べれば、小さな

約束してくれる。

穴や暗 闇にはさまざまな小さな生 命があふれているは

 もっとも深くて16∼20m 、浮上は、水面に到達するまで

ずだ。 SUMMER 2015

25


the nooks and crannies seem to promise encounters with little critters and a range of smaller inhabitants.

Okinoshima The incredible dive sites around Okinoshima offer thrills of every shape and size from schools of large pelagic fish, strong currents and a range of seascapes to inspire divers' awe. Oki no Tatami is literally one huge rock whose bottom lies over a carpet of white sand at 25 meters. It is most suited to divers who like macro life and enjoy taking time to explore their surroundings. The current can sometimes be mild, but the best way to get the most out of Oki no Tatami is to simply circle around the huge rock itself. The shallower depths here are bathed in the sun as ripples of light skip across the hard rocky surface but, deeper down, the environment is a little darker and subdued with a lot less visibility. Covered in seaweed, the rock seems to have become an artificial reef-like structure in its own right. The bonus is that it is home to a myriad of small fish such as schools of damselfish and several blennies with frog-like faces, curiously poking out their heads from their home in the rocks and taking divers' minds off the slightly poor visibility. With feathery tentacles above their eyes, some can look quite comical, staring intently as divers make their way past and perhaps no doubt secure in the thought their homes offer good protection. The site is a little simple and barren with almost no clue to the varied marine life but, on closer inspection, it is a very beautiful, classic Sea of Japan coast dive. The Oki Islands are a cornucopia of marine delights and other fascinating experiences waiting to be discovered and enjoyed. I for one am really keen to return and continue my exploration of the Sea of Japan. There are many diving spots around the Oki Islands, and the dive centers will choose places based on your skills and the weather/sea conditions. Here are a few of the highlights.✤

Photos by Nick Bradley

OKI NO TATAMI

沖の畳(隠岐の島)

ダイビングスポットでは、あらゆるスリルを体験することが できる。沖の畳とは文 字どおり、水深 25m の白い海底 砂の上に横たわる巨大な岩のことである。マクロライフ

Photo by Club Noah Oki

 大きな遠海魚の群れや海流の強さ、ダイバーに畏 怖 の念さえいだかせる海中の風景など、隠岐の島周辺の

やその周辺を探索したいダイバーにはたまらないスポット だろう。  流れがおだやかな時もあるが、沖の畳を最大限に楽し みたいなら、とにかくこの巨大な岩の周りを泳ぐことだ。岩 場の多い浅瀬は太陽の光で明るいが、深く潜るとそこは やや暗く視界も悪くなる。海藻に覆われた岩はそれ自体が もはや人工リーフのように見える。  このあたりはスズメダイの群れなどの宝庫だ。カエルみ たいな顔をしたギンポが岩の中の巣から興味津々に頭を 突きだしてくれると、視界の悪さも気にならなくなるだろう。 目の上に羽のような触手を生やしたおかしな顔が、ダイ バーが通り過ぎるたびに熱心にこちらを見てくる。巣にい れば安心だと信じきっているのだろう。シンプルで一見不 毛にみえるこのスポットに、まさかこれほど豊かな生命があ ふれているとは思いもよらないが、ここは日本海屈指のう  隠岐の島はありあまる海の生命と魅力的な経験を用意 してくれている。個人的に、日本海はぜひもう一度行きた い場所のひとつとなった。 ✤

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Photo by Club Noah Oki

つくしいダイビングスポットである。


The Oki Islands are a co rnucopia of marine delights and other fascinating experience s waiting to be discovered and enjo yed.

隠岐の島はありあまる海の 生命と 魅力的な経験を用意してく れている。

SUMMER 2015

27


PRACTICALITIES GETTING THERE: Flights are available with JAL and ANA. The ANA flight goes from Tokyo's Haneda Airport to Yonago Airport in Tottori Prefecture. From here, take a taxi or bus to Shichirui Port (or taxi, bus or train to Sakaiminato Port) where high-speed and slower ferries go to all of the four islands. The JAL flight goes to Oki Airport on Dogo via Osaka (Itami Airport) and Izumo (Izumo Airport). Ferries from any one of the four Oki ports take visitors back to Shichirui Port or Sakaiminato Port. It's also possible to get to Matsue or Sakaiminato by JR or to Matsue by express bus (day or overnight) from many of Japan's major cities. CLIMATE: Summer temperatures reach about 30C and, although it's humid, the sea breeze makes it feel much more comfortable. Local people say, "Enjoy a -4C summer," as it's usually four degrees cooler on the islands compared to mainland Japan. July, August and September usually have fine weather, while in late autumn the rain becomes more frequent. In winter the average temperature is about 10 or 11C with very little snow and a cold wind chill. WATER TEMPERATURE: This varies between 10 and 29C from spring to late summer, with October about 20-23C. A 5-mm. wetsuit is best during the summer months until around October. In winter, diving is generally not available. GETTING AROUND: Hiring a car is the best option. There are tourist information centers on each island that can help with transport and bookings. Be sure to book in advance. There are also scheduled sightseeing bus and boat tours on Nishinoshima, Nakanoshima and Dogo between April and October, and rental bicycles (standard

アクセス:飛行機はJALとANAが飛んでいる。ANAは羽田から

or electric) are available at the ports (except Chiburijima). FURTHER INFORMATION: For further details on diving off the Oki Islands contact the Nishinoshima Tourism Office (www.nkk-oki.com, English/Japanese) or Okinoshima Tourism Association (www.oki-dougo.info, Japanese only). Visit www.e-oki.net for some good general information about the islands. PLACES TO STAY: Accommodation varies greatly from rural guesthouse or modest minshuku to larger ryokan or hotel. <NISHINOSHIMA> Fukuro is a minshuku on the waterfront with basic rooms containing a TV, kettle, futon bedding and Wi-Fi. Dinner and breakfast are provided. (www4.hp-ez.com/hp/fukurou-oki/page1) The Oki Seaside Hotel Tsurumaru (www.oki-tsurumaru. jp) offers beautiful ocean views from Japanese-style rooms, a modern restaurant, Wi-Fi and an interesting boat-shaped bath. <OKINOSHIMA (DOGO)> Michizaka is a spacious family-run minshuku on Okinoshima with a huge room where guests eat dinner and breakfast. A bath can be run for you in the evening. Takenobo is a very clean minshuku close to the port with very good breakfast (dinner–eat out nearby at one of the local restaurants or izakaya). Recently, a traditional home has been converted into a guesthouse called Tsukudaya, where guests can cook, eat or go fishing with the owner, a young lady called Saki-chan. (http://oki-tsukudaya.com/) Dive Operators Club Noah Oki: www.oki.club-noah.net Fuse Diving Center: www.okidiv.jp

その他:隠岐の島でのダイビング情報は、西ノ島観光協会

(ま ( www.nkk-oki.com )のニコラ・ジョーンズにご連絡を。ダ 鳥取の米子空港へ。空港からタクシーかバスで七類港 たはタクシー、バス、電車で境港)へ行くと、4つの島へは

イビングスクールや宿泊、移動の手配もしてくれる。

高速フェリー、もしくは通常のフェリーが出ている。JALは伊 丹空港または出雲空港から島後の隠岐空港へ。隠岐の4

宿泊:田舎のゲストハウスから民宿、旅館はホテルまでさ

つの港から七類と境港へのフェリーで帰ることができる。

まざまなオプションが用意されている。

 日本の主要都市から松江、境港へはJR 、松江へは高 速バス (深夜バスもある) も出ている。

<西ノ島> 海が目の前の民宿福来朗はTV、ポット、布団、

気候:夏は30 ℃前後になるが、湿気をおびた海風が吹

Wifiもついている。朝食、夕食つき。 ( www4.hp-ez.com/ hp/fukurou-oki/page1)

くので心地よい。島は本土より約 4 ℃低いので、地元で

 隠岐シーサイドホテル鶴丸は和室からうつくしい海が見

といわれている。7 月∼ 9 月は は “ 4 ℃低い夏を楽しもう”

えるホテルで、レストランやWi-fiのほか、ボートの形をした

晴れが多いが、秋が深まると雨が降りやすくなる。冬の

お風呂がおすすめ。(www.oki-tsurumaru.jp)

平均気温は10 ∼ 11 ℃、雪は少ないが、風がつめたい。

<隠岐の島(島後)> 家族経営の民宿道坂は部屋が広 く、朝食、夕食つき。竹の坊はきれいな民宿で港にも近く、

水温:春から晩夏にかけては10∼29 ℃と差がある。10月

朝ごはんがおいしい。夕食はついていないが、近所に居

は20∼23 ℃。夏から10月にかけては5mmのウェットスーツ

酒屋がある。

が最適だ。冬はダイビングのオフシーズンとなっている。

 佃屋は、古民家を改築したゲストハウスで、 “暮らすよう に遊ぶ “をテーマに、ゲストが料理をしたり、オーナーと釣り

交通手段:車を借りるのがもっともおススメだ。車はホテ

を楽しむこともできる。 (http://oki-tsukudaya.com/)

ル、空港、西ノ島観光協会で手配可能。西ノ島、中ノ島、 島後では4月から10月には観光バスやボートもある。港で は自転車のレンタル (電動自転車あり)も可能(知夫里島

Photo by Nick Bradley

以外)。

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T R AV E L E R

ダイビング クラブノア隠岐:www.oki.club-noah.net 布施ダイビングセンター : www.okidiv.jp


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B i l a B

T R AV E L E R


Bali's exotic aura can be found beyond the legendary beaches and powerfull swell; the island’s mystique extends below into the ocean realm. バリがもつ魅惑のオーラはビーチやパワフルな波を超えて広がる。 その神秘は海の中でも垣間見ることができる。

w o l e B e Kwok n i a l E e& igashid H o k o ,Y m Rock i T y b photos Story &

ング ビ イ ダ バリ島で

SUMMER 2015

31


I

was looking at the coral-encrusted remains of the engine room of a WWII-era American shipwreck off the shores of Bali. The ship was attacked in the Bali Straits by Japanese forces, and the captain beached the wounded vessel along the lonely shores of eastern Bali. To add insult to injury, the nearby mighty Mt. Agung erupted with such force, it caused the ship to tumble deep into the sea. Now its bow sits slightly below the surface while much of the ship rests in depths down to 30 meters. On this morning I watched in amazement at dawn’s first light while huge bumphead parrotfish emerged from an evening of sleep in the protection of the wreck. With front teeth larger than a beaver's, they can crunch huge pieces of coral. On this morning they lazily came together and then headed for an undersea cleaning station. It was a spectacular sight to see. Indonesia is a Mecca for scuba divers. It is part of an area called The Coral Triangle which is the richest part of the world’s ocean for coral reef diversity. Divers head to the region’s hotspots such as Raja Ampat, West Papua’s Cenderawasih Bay, Komodo and Lembeh (to name just a few) to see the rarest and most colorful creatures in the sea. Bali ranks high as a major diving attraction but is sometimes overshadowed by its eastern counterparts. I started diving in Bali in the 1980s and let’s just say the dive sites weren’t as crowded as they are today. We could spend all day in Tulamben at this famous USS Liberty shipwreck and not see any other divers some days. In fact, Tulamben was nothing more than arid fields with a few cattle grazing near the river. No hotels, dive shops or stores. Just a flimsy thatched hut perched up in the hills to give

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T R AV E L E R

some shade to the local farmers. Times have changed however. The popularity of this beautiful and historic wreck, which can be dived by a shoreline entry, along with the nearby deep dropoffs and critter-covered black sand slopes have catapulted Bali’s east coast into an area divers from around the world come to see and photograph. Though it is popular and well visited now, I am happy to report the beauty and allure of Bali’s Tulamben and many other dive sites continues to endure. In fact, divers really don’t have to go east of Bali to see all the rare and wonderful creatures of the sea. Bali continues to surprise with new sites, road improvements and better facilities at every venue. It is pretty much all here in one very exotic and wonderful package. Want to see the rare mola-mola ocean sunfish? Take a trip across Bali’s channel to Nusa Penida or Nusa Lembongan. Dream of seeing sea turtles on every dive and reef? Try diving in the Gili Islands between Bali and Lombok. Want to see Japanese and American WWII shipwrecks? Look no further than Bali’s east coast at Tulamben and Banyuning Bay. How about undersea sunken temples and coral laden gods? Pemuteran is the place to go. Or perhaps muck that produces rare mimic octopus or beautiful ornate ghost pipefish? North Bali and the eastern slopes come to mind. The list goes on. Wall dives at Menjangen Island, muck dives in Pemuteran Bay and Padang Bai, great drift dives along western Nusa Penia. It is all there. Bali invokes images of picturesque rural towns and terraced rice fields set amid verdant tropical foliage and

the azure sea. This tiny island in the middle of the huge Indonesian archipelago is all that. The Bali and Flores seas, at the southern reaches of the Indian Ocean, surround Bali. They support an incredible amount of marine life, making this one of the most biologically diverse diving destinations in the world. Bali has a well-developed tourist industry able to please all tastes. Though political unrest has swept through parts of Indonesia in the last few years, Bali has been untouched, save for one sad incident, and works hard to erase those images and protect the island paradise from outsiders causing trouble. Many divers visit a number of dive sites by joining a “diving safari” tour. On the east coast, Padang Bai is a small, scenic and busy fishing village and port that has only recently begun catering to tourists. The quick access to some nice dive sites contributes to the town’s relaxing atmosphere. The reefs around Padang Bai have white sand bottoms and can be stunning when visibility is good. Near Padang Bai, the shallow reefs of Blue Lagoon are used for introductory dives, night dives and long photo excursions. Staghorn coral patch reefs start in only three meters of water. The reef then opens onto an area with huge coral bommies, soft leather corals and flowing anemones. The delicate tips of the well-developed plate corals here are beautiful, tinged with purple and blue. Tulamben is located on the northeast shore of the Badung Straight. A short walk past multi-colored outriggers brings the diver to a black, rocky beach. The Liberty Shipwreck is a remnant of WWII and is considered by most dive operators to be Bali's most popular dive site.


Bali Below

は、バリの海に沈む第二次世界大戦の

歴史ある沈没船と、付近の深いドロップオフや、奇妙な

アメリカの沈没船を見ていた。エンジン

生物でいっぱいのブラックサンドのスロープは、今や世

ルームは今や珊瑚で覆われている。バ

界中のダイバーや写真家をバリの東海岸へとよびよせ

リ海峡で日本軍に襲われたこの船は、

ている。

キャプテンが命からがらバリの人気のない東海岸に着い

 すっかり人気ではあるが、 トランベンをはじめとしたダイ

たものだ。すっかりボロボロになった船に追い打ちをかけ

ビングスポットは、いまでも美しく魅力的な場所なのでご

るようにアグン山が噴火、そのものすごい力で海中深く

心配なく。珍しい海の生物を見るのにバリの東海岸まで

沈んでしまったのだ。船首は海面のすこし下に見えるが、

行く必要もない。つねに新たなスポットが発見され、道

船体のほとんどは水深30mの深さに沈んでいる。

路や施設はどこも整備されており、このエキゾチックな

 この朝、私は船を隠れ家に眠る巨大なコブブダイが

場所にはすべてが詰めこまれているのだ。

朝日とともに姿をあらわすのを驚きとともに眺めていた。

 珍しいモラモラマンボウを見たければ、バリチャンネル

ビーバーより大きな前歯は、大きな珊瑚をも噛み砕く。

をわたって、ペニダ島かレンボンガンへ行くといい。潜る

のろのろとあらわれて海底のクリーニングステーションへ

たびにウミガメと遭遇するのが夢ならば、バリとロンボク

と泳いでいく姿は、えもいわれぬ光景だった。

の間にあるギリ島へ。第二次世界大戦の日本とアメリ

 インドネシアはスキューバのメッカだ。豊かなコーラル

カの沈没船にはトランベンとBanyuning Bayがある。海

リーフは世界有数で、コーラルトライアングルと呼ばれ

に沈んだ寺院とサンゴに覆われた神々を見るならペムテ

ているエリアの一部である。ダイバーに人気なのは、ラ

ランを訪れてみてほしい。バリ北部や東のスロープへ行

ジャ・アンパットや西パプアのチェンデラワシ湾、コモド

けば、ミミックオクトパスやゴーストパイプフィッシュがい

やレンベなどで、見たこともないような色とりどりの海の

る泥底のマックもある。ムンジャンガン島ではウォールダ

生物を目撃することができる。

イブ、ペムテラン湾とパダンバイでもマックダイブができ

 バリのダイビングスポットは有名ではあるが、東にせめ

るし、西のヌサペニアに行けばドリフトダイブもできる。ご

ぎあう競合のため影が薄いのは否めない。私がバリでダ

らんのとおり、選び放題である。

イビングをはじめたのは1980 年代で、当時のダイビング

 バリといえば、心地よい田舎の街なみに、熱帯の植

スポットは混雑とは無縁だった。トランベンのリバティ号

物が生い茂るなかにある段々畑、そして碧い海が目に浮

で一日ダイブして、ひとりののダイバーを見かけないこと

かぶ。巨大なインドネシア諸島のなかの小さなバリ島は、

もよくあった。じっさいトランベンは、川のそばで牛が草

インド洋南部のバリ海とフローレス海に囲まれており、こ

を食べているだけの不毛な場所でしかなく、ホテルもな

のふたつの海が豊かな海洋生物を育み、世界でもほか

ければ、ダイビングショップも店もなかった。いまにも壊

にはない多様な生物をを擁するダイビングスポットをつく

れそうな丘の上に点在するがなければ、日陰さえないよう

りあげている。

なところだ。

 バリは観光地としてだれをも楽しませてくれる。インドネ

 時は流れ、海岸からのエントリーも可能なこの美しく

シアには政治的に不安定な場所もあるが、バリはあの

Cambodia China Indonesia Maldives Mozambique Qatar Thailand United Arab Emirates Vietnam Zambia

SUMMER 2015

33


Bali Below

The currents running by the wreck bring nutrients to feed the corals and stunning gorgonian sea fans; huge soft coral trees and big barrel sponges have all flourished at this location. A resident school of bigeye jacks live on and around the ship and are unafraid of divers, so it is safe to enter the school and have them whirl around. The ship is also a haven for emperators, batfish, sweetlips and parrotfish. After some days in Tulamben, get up early and drive three hours or so northwest to the Pemuteran area. Named for a large Napoleon wrasse seen here, Napoleon Reef is a great little spot. It can be dived deep or shallow, day or night. At Menjangan Island Marine Park, the dropoffs can be a real treat. Look to be greeted by batfish here. The diving offers spectacular corals and many deep crevices and fissures as well as small caves pocking the reef. Sleeping groupers and wary bigeyes are found in the dark recesses. By now you are ready for the more laid-back islands of the three Gilis. As famous for the white sand beaches and all night raves (on “Gili T”) as they are for diving. A sea turtle incubation program has meant the reefs here have plenty of green sea turtles and some hawkbills around. Gili Air is also known as a great place for those who like macro life such as frogfish and seahorses. Like all the Gilis, there is no car traffic and each have a real “islandy” feel. The fruit bat-covered Batu Lumbung (AKA Manta Point) off Nusa Penida is known for a resident population of black and gray manta rays that come in to cleaning stations. They also congregate to feed off the currents nearby and to mate. Divers have seen as many as 50 rays here when that action takes place. From June through October, giant ocean sunfish also come in to mate and go to bannerfish-filled cleaning stations. Their habitat can be a deep and tricky dive but, with the right guide, seeing a fish that can reach four tons in weight and four-and-a-half meters in height is impressive. There are many more dive spots in and around Bali to explore for the curious diver. Enjoy the diverse marine life here in the Indo-Pacific Sea, then relax in the shadow of a volcano. Few places on earth compare. ✤

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T R AV E L E R

唯一の悲しいできごとのイメージを消す努力をつづけてお り、国外からのトラブルからこのパラダイスを守っている。  ダイバーの多くは、ダイビングサファリツアーでさまざまな スポットを訪れている。東海岸のパダンバイは眺めのよい 忙しい小さな漁村で、ようやく最近観光客へと港が開かれ たばかりだ。スポットへのアクセスもよく、白砂の海底は透 明度がよい日には最高のダイビングを約束してくれる。  パダンバイの近くにあるブルーラグーンリーフは、初級ダ

まである。フサカサゴや眠たそうな大きな目をした魚が休ん

イビングやナイトダイブ、長時間の撮影にも利用される。

でいるのをみつけられるだろう。

水深たった3mでホーンサンゴを見ることができて、そこから

 ここまで来ると、そろそろゆったりしたギリ島へ行きたく

大きなボミー珊瑚やソフトコーラル、ゆらめくイソギンチャク

なってきたはずだ。ギリは白い砂浜、夜通し行われるレイブ

が広がるエリアへとつながる。よく育ったプレートコーラル

とおなじくらい、ダイビングも有名だ。ウミガメの産卵プロ

の繊細な先端は美しい紫やブルーで彩られている。

グラムもあるこの島は、アオウミガメやタイマイとの遭遇を

 トランベンはバダン海峡の北東の海岸にある。カラフル

約束してくれる。

なアウトリガーカヌーの先に、岩でごつごつしたビーチがあ

 ギリエアーはカエルアンコウやタツノオトシゴなどのマク

らわれる。リバティ号は第二次世界大戦の沈没船で、バ

ロライフ好きには最高のスポットだ。ギリ島には車もなく、

リでもっとも人気のスポットとして知られる。

どこまでも “アイランド” を感じさせてくれる島である。

 船のまわりの海流が栄養分を運び、珊瑚や息をのむよ

 ヌサペニダの沖には、オオコウモリでしられるバトゥルン

うな赤サンゴを育ててくれる。巨大なソフトコーラルと大き

ブン (マンタポイントとして知られている)には、黒とグレー

なバレルスポンジもここですくすくと育っている。ビッグア

のオニイトマキエイが住んでおり、クリーニングステーション

イジャックはここの住人で、ダイバーを怖がらないので、群

にやってくる。交尾や、 エサを求めて近くの海流へあつまっ

れの中に入って一緒に泳いでみてほしい。ここにはほかに

てくるのだが、最大50匹ほどを見たダイバーも多い。

も、emperatorやバットフィッシュ、コロダイやブダイも多く

  6月から10月は巨大なマンボウも交尾のためにやってき

生息している。

て、ハタタテダイでいっぱいのクリーニングステーションへ

 トランベンで数日をすごしたら、早起きして3 時間ほど北

行く。彼らの住処は深くてみつけにくいが、よいガイドと潜

西にドライブしてペムテランへ向かおう。大きなナポレオ

れば体重 4トン、全長 4.5mの魚を見るのは感動的の体験

ンフィッシュにちなんで名づけられたナポレオンリーフがあ

となるだろう。

る。深く浅く、朝でも夜でも潜れるスポットだ。

 バリにはほかにもたくさんのスポットがあり、好奇心旺盛

 メンジャンガン島マリンパークのドロップオフは最高だ。

なダイバーにはほんとうにおすすめ。インドパシフィックの

まずはバットフィッシュが歓迎してくれる。壮大な珊瑚に、

多様な海洋生物を楽しんだ後に、火山の影でひと休みで

深いクレバスや割れ目。リーフにはところどころ小さな洞窟

きる場所は世界にもあまりないだろう。✤


www.oberoihotels.com

SUMMER 2015

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Bali Below

Bali’s Top Five Dives 1) USS Liberty Shipwreck – Tons of fish, small critters on the black sand slopes and coral adoring the remnants of a world war.

1 )USSリバティ号:魚の大群と黒砂のサンドスロープ に生息する小さな生き物や珊瑚が大戦の名残を飾り たてている。

2) Manta Point – This Nusa Penida dive offers a beautiful limestone cliffline landscape on the way to the dive and a chance to see majestic mantas at the dive site.

2 )マンタポイント:ヌサペニダのダイビングは、スポット へ向かう途中の石灰岩の断崖もうつくしく、マンタが見 れる可能性も。

3) Padang Bai – Various sites here are home to some rare fish such as the odd-looking paddleflap rhinopias.

3 )パダンバイ:とても珍しいpaddleflap rhinopia(ボロ カサゴ属)などが生息するエリア。

4) Temple Wall – Located in Pemuteran Bay, an actual Balinese temple sits along the wall in the sand while up in the shallows coral-covered statues mix with the reef corals.

4 )テンプルウォール:ペムテラン湾にあり、砂の壁に そってバリの寺院が沈んでいる。浅瀬にはサンゴに覆 われた銅像も見ることができる。

5) Seraya Secrets – They may not look like much at first, but these black sand slopes hold seahorses, rare gobies, harlequin shrimp and much more. Guaranteed to thrill those who love the odd and rare.

5 )セラヤシークレット:たいしたことのないポイントに見 えるが、この黒砂のスロープにはタツノオトシゴや珍し い種類のハゼ、フリソデエビなど豊かな海の生物がす んでいる。珍しいもの好きにはたまらないスポット。

SUMMER 2015

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Bali Below

Pemuteran’ s Sea Turtle Project

ペムテランのウミガメプロジェクト In order to conserve the precious sea turtle, many years ago Reef Seen Dive Center in Pemuteran established Proyek Penyu (The Turtle Project), a sea turtle hatchery. It is a self-supporting venture relying on contributions by those who love the sea. The sea turtle is considered a delicacy in Bali and is hunted and sold. This is rather ironic since its religion believes the island rides on the back of a giant turtle god. Reef Seen has established a hatchery for green and hawksbill sea turtles and raises babies until they are able to fend for themselves in the wild. Older turtles are also purchased as are sea turtle eggs, promoting the livelihood of the aquaria reptiles. Stop by Reef Seen and see the babies in their tanks in various growth stages.  貴重なウミガメを保護するために、ペムテランのリー フシーン・ダイブセンターは、マレー語で「ウミガメプロ ジェクト」を意味するProyek Penyuを立ちあげ、ウミガメ のふ化場をつくった。この独立系ベンチャーは海を愛 する人々からの寄付によって運営されている。バリで ウミガメは珍味とされ、捕獲・販売されており、島自体 が巨大なカメの神の背中に乗っていると信じられてい るバリで、これはかなり皮肉なことである。  リーフシーンでは、アオウミガメとタイマイというウミガ メのためのふ化場を設置し、赤ちゃんウミガメが野生 のなかで生きていけるようになるまで育てている。卵と 同じように、大人のウミガメや卵も購入してしており、 海の爬虫類たちのの暮らしを促進している。ぜひリー フシーンに立ち寄って、大小さまざまな成長段階の赤 ちゃんウミガメを見にいってほしい。

Temple Garden Diving テンプルガーデン・ダイビング

Temple Garden is a real underwater engineering feat, with more than 10 large stone statues resting on stone plinths and a four-meter high Balinese“candi bentar”gateway. It is found at a depth of 28 meters and incorporates a cleaning station with schooling baitfish. Created in 2006, the "garden" is covered in lush gorgonian fans and must be seen to be believed. The statues also have colorful encrusting sponges, soft corals and tubastraea corals, which“bloom”at night. A second stage of this Temple Garden has now been started on the reef flats above at a depth of about 15 meters. Another special dive is in front of Reef Seen where the Garden of the Gods sits with dozens of statues in 22 meters of water. It is inspired by the Balinese legend of the nine Dewa of Bali with Shiva surrounded by the other eight Dewa positioned at the eight directions of the winds.  石の台座に乗る10以上の石像と、4mの高さのバリ スタイルの海底割れ門からなる 「テンプルガーデン」は すばらしい水中の建造物である。水深 28mの海底に あり、群れをなす餌魚のクリーニングステーションにも なっている。   2006 年に造られたこの「庭」には、扇型をしたサン ゴが茂るように覆い、それは一見の価値がある。石像 は、スポンジサンゴや軟サンゴ、イボヤギサンゴに覆わ れて夜には花を咲かせたようになる。テンプルガーデ ンの第 2ステージは水深 15mのリーフフラットでスタート している。  ほかにも特別なダイビングスポットがある。それはリー フシーンの前方、水深 22mのところには数多くの神々 が鎮座する “神々の園” 。これはバリの伝説からインス ピレーションを受けてつくられたもので、1体のシバ神と 9体のバリのデワ神の周りを、8つの風の方角にそれぞ れ配置されたデワ神8体が囲んでいるというものだ。

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Bali for Kids Parents By Gardner Robinson

T

rains, planes and ferry rides with kids ̶ plus all the stuff you need to bring on a holiday ̶ are not for everyone. Every parent has a different comfort zone and travel with kids takes planning and plenty of patience. Safe and easy is usually the rule when it comes to family vacations, but once you find a routine that works, the world is your playground.  Bali may not seem like a natural destination for a vacation with kids, but the beautiful beaches, wide range of great places to stay and affordable baby sitter services make it paradise for parents.   Discovering Bali babysitters is a game changer. It ’ s easy to check out reviews from families to find sitters that sound right for you and your kids. Karsini Services was recommended to us and with a little research we selected a sitter to meet us at our hotel the evening we arrived.  Our son had no experience with babysitters, but our sitter was kind and patient and soon we were sitting by the beach enjoying a relaxing“adult dinner”by ourselves. Some families hire nannies during their stay, but for us, a few hours each evening was perfect and made it feel like a real vacation. Nusa Dua  There are times you want a vacation and others when you need one. Nusa Dua is the place if you need a hassle free holiday to totally unplug. The Nusa Dua Resort & Spa is a beautiful property along a 200-meter long white beach great for snorkeling, paddle boarding or morning yoga.  The big pool has a kids’area right next to the Gecko Kids’ Club (for kids 3 years and older) and a pool bar where parents can sip and dip while keeping an eye on the kiddos.   The spa will keep mom happy, and the variety of restaurants, including Asian fusion, Italian, Korean BBQ and sushi, will keep the kids from getting bored. The miniamphitheater has evening entertainment for adults, while kids’shows go on at the Gecko Kids’Club.

Seminyak   Seminyak is a more relaxed alternative to the chaotic streets of neighboring Kuta and Legian. There are excellent places to stay within a short walk from the beach and plenty of amazing restaurants. The grand Oberoi Hotel and its more contemporary neighbor, The Anantara, are two beachside hotels great for families.  The new rooftop Moonlite Kitchen and Bar at the Anantara was hands down our favorite place for sunset cocktails. The 59 suites in this stylish hotel are modern, yet infused by Balinese-inspired décor and just steps from the pool or the beach. The beach out front is great for kids, while parents relax and look on.  The Oberoi Bali, and its sister property, The Oberoi Lombok, share an understated elegance and acres of beautifully landscaped tropical gardens. Their immaculate villas with private pools are perfect for kids who want to play in the pool day or night.  The Oberoi Bali has a prime location on Bali’ s most famous s northwest beach, while the Oberoi Lombok, on the island’ coast, faces Gili Air and has a great ocean sports activity center that can arrange private boats to the Gili Islands. The rise and fall of the waves had our son sleeping minutes after leaving the shore. Gili Air  If you want to bring the kids on an island adventure, Gili Air is a great option. It is the closest of the three Gili Islands to Lombok, just 20 minutes by local fishing boat or five minutes by speedboat, and it has a friendly, local charm. Gili s shores are lined with funky cafés, bars and dive shops, Air’ and there are no cars or motorbikes on the island.  There are a number of places to stay on the island, from backpacker bungalows to higher end resorts. We wanted something in between and settled on the Sunrise Gili Air.

Our longtail boat from the mainland dropped us off on the beach right in front of the hotel. It was just a few steps to the two-storied bungalow facing the beach, which is great for families.  The open-air balcony on the second floor was the perfect place to lounge in a hammock while enjoying cool ocean s second breezes and the view of Lombok and Indonesia ’ highest volcano, Mt. Rinjani. Our son loved looking down at the“traffic”on the street below as horse-drawn carts, bicycles and backpackers searching for accommodation passed by.   There ’ s plenty to do – or not – depending on your motivation. The calm, sparkling water is great for diving and snorkeling. There are glass bottom boat trips, kayaking, stand-up paddling and even kitesurfing or surfing.  The surf break off the south coast attracts small crowds s pumping, and many places rent bicycles, and it ’ s when it’ not difficult to find one with a child seat. We enjoyed casually riding around the island, stopping to relax or swim at our leisure. Babysitters are available on the island, but best to call ahead, as they are not as readily available as in Bali. GETTING THERE  Garuda Indonesia has daily flights from Narita and Haneda

to Denpasar in Bali. There are also daily flights from Denpasar to Lombok. Visit www.garuda-indonesia.com for details. WEB CONNECTION < Places to Stay > Nusa Dua Spa & Resort: www.nusaduahotel.com The Oberoi Bali & Lombok: www.oberoihotels.com Anantara Bali: http://bali.anantara.com Sunrise Gili Air: www.sunrisegiliair.com < Bali Babysitters > Karsini Services: www.karsini-services.com

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NORTH SULAWESI REVEALED 北スラウェシを冒険 By Rie Miyoshi

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To describe Indonesia’s countless islands in one giant swoop is virtually impossible. They are as versatile as they are numerous. Bali often deservedly garners high praise, but many travelers never venture beyond the island paradise or neighboring Lombok. One of Indonesia’s 17,508 islands is Sulawesi, the oft-unvisited island that lies just below the Philippines, nestled between Indonesian Borneo and the Maluku Islands. 数え切れないほどの島々で構成された国インドネシアを一言であらわすのは不可能です。 それはこの国にはさまざまな民族の人々が暮らしているからです。バリ島は観光客に人気が高く、 訪れた人々の評判は高いが、このパラダイスを越えてほかの島に向かおうとする人は少ないのが現実。 17,508の島で構成されているインドネシアの島のひとつにスラベシがあります。 フィリッピンの下、ボルネオとマルク島に挟まれたところにその島はあります。

SUMMER 2015

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S

ulawesi is a unique K-shaped island comprised of three plates, its geographical features creating diverse landscapes from rainforests, highlands and valleys to unpopulated beaches and acres upon acres of reefs attracting divers from the world over. Don’t let the island’s skinny peninsulas fool you – Sulawesi is the world’s 11th largest island, and its northern and southern cultures could not be more different. In North Sulawesi alone, three main tribes exist – Minahasan, Gorontalo and Bolaang Mongondow – along with many others from varying parts of Indonesia, each with its own language.

Manado Manado is the largest city in North Sulawesi with a population of approximately 500,000. Home to one of the world’s most famous diving spots, Manado is characterized by dramatic volcanoes and azure waters that enclose the bustling city. This traditional trading city on the tip of North Sulawesi has been colored by centuries of trade, particularly influenced by the Dutch. It is still apparent today in the memorials, architecture, language and even ethnicity of the locals. The roads are filled with horse-driven carts and minivans without doors and windows providing natural air conditioning. Many are the same shade of sky blue required for any form of public transportation in Sulawesi. On early mornings, local markets sell fresh fish, fruit and, if you’re daring enough to try, an exotic line-up of local delights including dog, forest rats and bats. “We like to say people from Manado will eat anything with four legs except the table, and anything with no legs except a plane,” Wiro, a local guide, jokes. Meat, vegetables, and fruits are abundant, and nearly every meal includes some sort of seafood. A little south of Manado, with arms outstretched, stands Kristus kase Berkat (Christ Blessing), the world’s fourth largest (and Asia’s second largest) statue of Jesus. Manado, unlike predominantly Muslim Indonesia, is 62 percent Christian with Protestant churches and Catholic cathedrals found on nearly every street. Completed in 2007, this statue was made by Ciputra, an Indonesian real estate mogul, and one of the country’s wealthiest men. It is part of a development called Citraland that includes a miniature waterpark and a slew of bizarre, life-size alabaster figurines of angels and animals.

Island Escapades Manado’s most notable diving spots are found around the nearby islands of Manado Tua, Bunaken and Siladen. Ferries leave from Manado Harbor or the private Marina Plaza Harbor and take about an hour. Manado Tua is a volcanic cone island that rises 764 meters out of the seas. The earliest residents of Manado, the Minahasa tribe, originated from Manado Tua, directly translated as “Old Manado,” but had to move to the Sulawesi mainland in the 16th century when they ran out of fresh water. Today, nearly 1,000 people live on Manado Tua. If you want to take a break from diving, there is a pleasant twohour hiking trail up the volcano and plenty of real estate for mountain biking. Currently, there are no hotels in Manado Tua, but camping is allowed if you report to the local city police and Manado Tua village head. Boomerang-shaped Bunaken and the smaller Siladen, Manado Tua’s low-lying neighbors, have many great diving

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and snorkel spots. They are also good places to set out for the main diving attraction, Bunaken National Park, one of Indonesia’s first marine parks. Accommodation on the islands range from inexpensive backpacker lodges to luxurious spa resorts. It was low tide when our boat arrived at Bunaken, so we parked a little farther out and then came ashore and jumped into a cart attached to a moped and headed through the village. It was noon, yet kids were getting out of school for the day. A crowd of shy but curious school kids gathered around to look in my camera at the photo I had just taken. English is not taught in public schools here. The majority of locals speak two languages: Bahasa Indonesia and their

ethnic tongue. The children, however, had us laughing as they practiced Japanese words they picked up from TV (“Ninja!” “Karate!” “Anime!”). They were soon off for a quick dip in the ocean and a game of soccer before returning home to help with fishing or preparing dinner. We spent the next few hours snorkeling around Bunaken’s famed reef walls. While the view of the blue skies and sloping mountains mirrored in water is surreal, it does not compare to the underwater landscape. Healthy coral of every shape and color thrive along the wall where the ocean floor drops into oblivion, while schools of parrotfish, angelfish and gobies feed off the reef. More experienced divers can take a boat to spots teeming with barracudas, rays, lion fish, reef sharks, eels and penyu


NORTH SULAWESI REVEALED 食べてしまいます。例外はテーブルくらいでしょうか。さら に足のないものも食べてしまうんですよ。例外は飛行機 かな」。ウィロという名のガイドがそんなジョークを言ってま した。肉、野菜そして果物だけでなく魚介類も含めてほと んどすべての種類がここにはあります。  マナドのすこし南にはキリストの巨大な銅像が建ってい ます。その大きさは世界第 4 位、アジアでは第 2 位を誇り ます。イスラム教徒が多いインドネシアにおいてこのマナ ドは62%の人々がクリスチャンです。プロテスタントの教 会やカソリックの聖堂が通りのいたるところで見ることが できます。  そのキリストの大きな銅像は2007 年にこの国の大富 豪のひとりであるチプトラ氏によって建てられました。これ はシトラランドという開発計画のひとつで、ミニチュアの ウォーターパークや原寸サイズの天使、動物の石工彫刻 なども作られました。

島での休日  マナドにはすばらしいダイビングスポットがあります。ブ ナケン・ナショナルパークの近くには、マナドツア、ブナ ケン、シラデンなどの島があり、マナドの港からはフェリー かマリーナプラザハーバーから1 時間ほどに位置していま す。 マナドツアは火山島で標高 764m 。マナドに最初 に住みだした種族はミナハサといい、彼らはマナドツアか らマナドやってきました。マナドツアとは訳するとオールド マナドという意味になります。でも彼らは16 世紀に水が 枯 渇し、スラベシに移動せざるをえなくなりました。現在で は1,000 人弱の住民がこのマナドツアに住んでいます。さ てダイビングに飽きたら2 時間のトレイルハイキングもいい ですよ。またマウンテンバイクにもいいコースがたくさんあ ります。  現在、マナドツアにはホテルがありませんが、警察とマ ナドツア村の役所に届け出ればキャンプができます。ブー メランのような形のブナケンとシラデンという小島がマナド ツアの群島としてあります。ここはダイビングにもスノーケ リングにもすばらしい場所です。ここはインドネシアで最 初に創設されたマリンパーク、ブナケン・ナショナルパー クでもあり、宿泊施設は安価なバッカパッカーロッジから 高級なスパリゾートまで揃っています。  さて、ブナケンに私たちを乗せたボートが到着したのは 正午でした。干潮なので船は沖に停泊し、モペットに乗 り換えました。ハシケでは学校帰りの子供たちが珍しそう に私のカメラに近づいてきました。英語をこの島では教え ていません。彼らが使う言語はふたつ、インドネシアのバ ハサ語と彼ら独自の言葉です。  でも子供たちはTV のおかげで日本語をすこし知ってい ました。 「ニンジャ!」、 「カラテ!」、 「アニメ!」などです。彼 らは家に戻って手伝いをするまえに海にもぐって遊んだり サッカーを楽しんでいます。それから私たちはブナケンの 有名な岩礁の壁に行き、スノーケリングを楽しみました。 青空の下、海面に映る山並みが美しく、海中とはまた違っ た美しさがそこにはありました。

 さて海の中は発育のいいサンゴがみごとな発色で壁

北の中心地

につづき、深みへと消えていく様子を見ることができまし

クな形 状で、3 つの 地 域で構 成されてい

 北部スラベシの中心地はマナド、島では2 番目に大き

た。周りにはブダイやエンジェルフィシュ、小ハゼの群れ

ます。ここには熱 帯 雨 林から高 山 地 帯と

な都市で、約 50 万人の人々が暮らしています。マナドを

が餌を求めて回遊していました。経験豊富なダイバーなら

渓 谷 、また手 つかずの 海 岸や 広 大な岩

象徴するものは火山とマナド湾の紺 碧色の海です。ダイ

ばボートをチャーターしてバラクーダ、エイ、ライオンフィッ

バーにとってこの都市はブナケン国立公園の玄関口とし

シュ、ペンユという海亀、鮫などを見にいくことができます。 イルカも早朝ならば外洋で見物することができます。

ラベシは英 文 字 の “ K ”の 形をしたユニー

礁もあって、世 界 中のダイバーを魅 了しています。  島の形状を地図で眺めるとユーモラスな印象を受けて

て、また昔から交易都市としてオランダの影響を受けなが

しまいますが、スラベシは面積の大きさでは世界第 11 位。

ら栄えてきました。その影響はいまでも建築物や人々の

 夕方に近づき町に戻るときがやってきた。フェリーに乗

そして北と南では文化がまったく異なるという特徴があり

言語また民族性にも深く根ざしているのがわかります。

り、ケラパというココナッツジュースを楽しんでいると夕陽

ます。

 この町の道路は馬車や通気のためにドアや窓のない

で私たちは金色に染まりだした。大きな波に逆らって船が

 北スラベシだけでも3つの民族が存在します。それらは

ミニバンなどが走りまわっています。公共の乗り物はすべ

ゆっくり進むと 「船は大丈夫、夕焼けを楽しんで!」と楽天

ミナハサン、ゴロンタロ、ボラング・モンゴンドウです。ほ

てスカイブルーに塗装されています。早朝の市場では新

的な地元の人が声をかけてきました。スラベシののんびり

かにもさまざまな民族がインドネシアには存在していて、そ

鮮な魚や果物が売られていますが、変わった食材では犬、 とした時間を過ごして、私は日々の忙しさをすっかり忘れ

れぞれが独自の言語を持っています。

ネズミ、コウモリなども売られていました。あなたは食べて

て自分を取り戻すことができました。

みたいですか? 「マナド出身の者は四つ足ならばなんでも SUMMER 2015

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(sea turtles). Dolphins can also be seen on early mornings in deeper parts of the ocean. As dusk draws near, it is time to get back to the city. Our skin glows from the day’s golden rays as we sip fresh kelapa (coconut) on the ferry. When strong waves make the going slow, an ever-optimistic local says, “No worries, we have time to enjoy the sunset.” Forgetting the frenetic city life I left behind, I slip into this Sulawesi “rubber time” when minutes stretch out so we can take it all in.

Jungle Life One of the first things you see when you exit Sam Ratulangi International Airport is Manado’s mascot, the almost extinct Tarsius tarsier. The world’s smallest monkey, which can only be found in Sulawesi, stands four inches tall with big bulging eyes. It is physically incapable of moving its eyeballs so has to turn its head a complete 180 degrees just to look around. An hour east from Manado lies Bitung City’s Tasikoki Wildlife Rescue Center, 55 hectares of land dedicated to protecting Indonesia’s flora and fauna from illegal wildlife trade, deforestation and hunting. The organization restores the health of rescued orangutans, sun bears, gibbons, cockatoos, babi rusa pigs, Sulawesi macaques, hornbills, lorises and more, nurturing them back to health with the hopes of releasing them back to their natural habitat. Volunteers can stay here at Wisma Tangkasi lodge for a donation. The rescue center is at the southernmost tip of Lembeh Strait which divides the Sulawesi mainland from Lembeh Island. It offers a different view altogether from the west coast with its rich black volcanic sand and rare marine critters, making it a world-class muck diving destination. There are a few shipwrecks including a Japanese freighter from World War II that divers can explore. Nearby Mt. Klabat, the highest peak in North Sulawesi at 1,995 meters, is popular for sunrises and sunsets. It is six hours up and four hours back, and hikers should watch out for slides and slippery slopes when it rains. Although the beachside Rusa Zoo is a convenient place to see tarsier, babi rusa, and Sulawesi bear cuscus, as well as primates, deer, snakes and crocodiles, it was disheartening to see endangered wildlife staring vacantly back from behind bars rather than living free in their paradise home. It’s further proof that supporting the Tasikoki Wildlife Rescue Center and Tangkoko Batuangus Nature Reserve farther north is so important.

Highlands to Fast Water Sitting at 700 meters above sea level between Mt. Lokon and Mt. Mahawu, Tomohon is part of the Minahasa Highlands and is generally cool and rainy compared to Manado. The serpentine drive to the highlands takes an hour from Bitung City and is a stark contrast to Manado’s sunny, dry climate. Mineral-rich natural hot springs from the volcanoes bubble up from the ground. The three main lakes in the area include Lake Tondano where you can enjoy boating and watching local fisherman ply their trade and then dine at one of the shoreside restaurants. Lake Mahawu is another crater lake at the peak of 3,333-meter Mt. Mahawu. Lake Linow, an ancient sulfuric crater lake, changes colors from time to time from red to green to blue, due to the chemicals and hot gases in the water. Pedal boats, kayaks and canoes are available for hire. The Highlands’ mountains, jungles and valleys have numerous hiking trails. The humidity and constant rain

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from the peaks create majestic waterfalls such as the intense Tinoor Waterfall at the base of Mt. Empung and the twin Kali Falls where visitors can cool off in the pool below. Many take photos from the nearby bridge. Mt. Lokon has a family-friendly two-hour hike up the crater, and local operators such as Matahatikita and Manado Safari Tours can take travelers on full-day waterfall and walking tours. One of the best things about the constant rainfall is that every season is peak season for whitewater rafting. In Minahasa, you can race down the Nimanga River, a two-hour whitewater rafting journey starting at Timbukar Village and ending at Tangkunei. It is a grade 3 to 4 ride with adrenaline-surging rapids and flat waters where you can take in the wildlife that includes kingfishers and

monitor lizards. The Ranoyapo River is the longest river in North Sulawesi. Rafting tours range from three hours to two full days of whitewater action. A number of whitewater rafting operators, such as Waraney Adventure & W.W. Rafting and Manado Rafting, offer tours; however, you should always make sure they are a member of the Indonesian White Water Federation. After enjoying the overflowing generosity of the people, nature and time as it slows down in this magical place, I can’t help but feel I’ve barely scraped the surface of what the diverse island has waiting for travelers. While my heart feels heavy, I am determined to return, hoping North Sulawesi will reveal even more of her secrets. ✤


NORTH SULAWESI REVEALED が必要です。海の近くにはルサ動物園があり、メガネザル だけでなく、スラベシ熊、クスクスや鹿、蛇、ワニなどが飼 われています。でも檻の中にいる絶滅危惧種などを見るの は複雑な気持ちになり、彼らを自然な環境に戻してあげた いと思いました。だからタシコキ野生動物保護センターや タンゴコバツアングス自然保護区の支援は大きなサポート となるのです。

高地から流れる急流  ミナハサ高地の海抜 700m 。ここはロコン山とマハウ山 に挟まれたところで、マナドに比べて涼しく雨量も多い環 境です。ビツグ市から車で曲がりくねった道を1 時間ほどで ここに到着します。マナドの明るく乾いた気候はここにはあ りません。火山からの温泉が土壌に湧きでています。ここ には大きな湖が3つあり、そのひとつがトンダノ湖です。こ こではボート遊びや漁師が獲った魚を売る光景を見ること ができるし、それを海辺の食堂で楽しむこともできます。マ ハウ湖は標高 3,333mのところにある火山湖。リノウ湖は 硫黄の水が溜まった火山湖で時間によって色が赤、緑、 青とその成分と吹きだすガスで変化します。ペダルボート やカヤックを借りることもできます。この高地の山々、ジャ ングル、渓谷はハイキングトレイルとしてすばらしい環境が あります。多湿な気候が雨を降らして壮大な滝を形成して います。エンパング山のティノール滝や双子滝のカイでは 滝つぼで訪れた人は水遊びを楽しめます。ロコン山は火口 まで2 時間のハイク、家族連れで行くといいでしょう。マタ ハチキタやマナド・サファリツアーを利用するのもいいでしょ う。彼らは毎日ウォーキングツアーを催して滝へと案内して くれます。ここは通年で川の水量が多いので、ラフティン グに最適。ミナハサではミナンガ川を2時間にわたり下るこ とができます。出発はティンブカ村からタングクネイまで、3 ∼4グレードの急流ではアドレナリンが噴出し、緩やかな流 れでは、カワセミやトカゲなどの生息するすばらしい自然を 愛でることができます。  ラノヤポ川は北スラベシでもっとも長い川で、ラフティン グツアーは3 時間コースから2日間みっちりというコースもあ ります。ラフティング会社はワラニーアドベンチャー &WW や、マナド・ラフティングなどがお勧めです。ほかにもありま すがインドネシア・ホワイトウォーター・フェデレーションに加 盟している団体か確認したほうがいいでしょう。  今回のこの魅力的な島に滞在し、すばらしい人々や大 自然と出会い、心を癒すことができましたが、この島の魅 力はまだまだ尽きず、私が経験したことはまだほんのわずか でした。そのためスラベシに戻らなければと決断したときは 寂しさを感じました。✤

ジャングルライフ

くば自然環境に戻してやりたいと考えています。

 サムラツランギ空港に到着したらいちばんにお薦めなの

 このセンターに寄付をする人はボランティアとしてウイス

がマナドのマスコットとして知られているメガネザルです。こ

マタングカシ・ロッジに滞在することができます。レスキュー

れは世界でもっとも小さく、スラベシにしか生息していませ

センターはスラベシの最南端にあり、その先にはレンべ海

ん。体長約2.5cmで、大きく見開いた目が特徴。この猿は

峡を挟んでレンべ島を望むことができます。その場所では

眼球を動かすことができない代わりに頭を180 度も回転さ

西海岸の黒い火山性の砂や希少な海洋生物を見ること

せることができます。マナドから東に1 時間ほど走るとビツ

もできます。その海の環境はマックダイビング (沈殿物のあ

ング市があり、そこにはタシコキ自然保護センターがありま

る泥底での潜水)で世界中に知られています。この海域

す。55ヘクタールのこのセンターはインドネシアの動植物

には難破した船も沈んでいます。なかには第二次世界大

を違法な森林破壊、狩猟、闇取引から守ってきました。こ

戦の日本軍の船も含まれていて、ダイバーは沈船ダイビン

の組織はさまざまな動物の保護もおこなっています。たとえ

グを楽しむこともできます。カラバト山は北スラベシの最高

ばオラウータン、マレーグマ、テナガザル、オウム、バビル

峰で高さは1,995m、日の出や日の入りを見るために朝と夕

サ、野ブタ、スワレシマカク猿、スローロリス、サイチョウな

に訪れる人がたうさんいます。登りは6 時間、下りは4 時間

どです。このセンターは彼らを健康になるまで保護し、願わ

ほどかかりますが、雨の日は滑りやすいので登山者は注意 SUMMER 2015

45


NORTH SULAWESI REVEALED Getting There To reach Manado, catch a flight to Sam Ratulangi International Airport, located 13 kilometers northeast of Manado. There are approximately eight flights a day from Jakarta to Manado which take about three-and-ahalf hours. Regular flights from Jakarta, Bali, Surabaya, Singapore and Kuala Lumpur and Guangzhou are available. Web: www.garuda-indonesia.com

アクセス:

マナドのサムラツランギ国際空港へはジャカルタから一 日8本の便が出ています。ジャカルタ以外にもバリ、ス ラバヤ、シンガポール、クアラルンプールからのフライト も利用できます。www.garuda-indonesia.com

PHOTO CREDITS Whitewater rafting photos: Manado Rafting Lake: Manado Rafting Waterfall: Manado Rafting フォトクレッジット: ラフティング:マナド・ラフティング 湖:マナド・ラフティング 滝:マナド・ラフティング

46

T R AV E L E R


SUMMER 2015

47


CAMPING IN STYLE AT

MUJI CAMPGROUNDS

Minami Norikura

D

o you want to go camping this summer, but you haven’t had time to plan a trip? Or perhaps the fact you don’t have your own camping gear is deterring you from sleeping under the stars. Not to worry. Leave it up to Muji to create a campsite package that makes it easy to get away without having to plan a thing. Although it might be a stretch to call it “glamping,” Muji, the Japanese lifestyle and clothing brand, operates some campsites around Japan that offer a great range of gear and activities making for a convenient trip. Each summer, Muji’s three campsites – each surrounding a lake – are open in Tsunan (Niigata), Minami Norikura (Gifu) and Campagna Tsumagoi (Gunma). There is plenty of real estate for travelers to pitch their tents, then participate in canoeing, fly fishing, kayaking, mountain biking, trail running and star gazing, just to name a few. Campers can also learn to make their own pizza, tofu , Dutch oven-style dinners, smoked tsumami for your beer — even ice cream. And, if you want to take a break, there are plenty of workshops to try your hand at woodworks, weaving, beads and flower arrangement. The only thing better than a camping trip is a camping trip with music. The Outdoor Summer Jamboree music festival takes place at Campagna Tsumagoi from July 24 to 26. The event features Okinawan artist Asano, plus other folk and rock bands and special fire dance performances. Originally started in 1995, Muji’s camps are themed around an “outdoor classroom” program for campers normally stuck in the urban landscape. The idea is for city folks to to get in touch with nature through learning how to cook, enjoy and create in an outdoor environment. Each campsite has a main “center hall” for check-ins and rentals and a bathroom with washroom facilities. If you want to relax even more, Tsunan has cottage rentals, and Minami Norikura an outdoor onsen . Tents, camping equipment, bicycles, fishing gear and rowboats are all available for rent. Fees are fairly reasonable, with the basic camping admission fee being ¥2,160 for adults and ¥1,080 for elementary school children per night. On top of that, visitors will have to pay for the various activity packages, food and rental equipment. For more information on Muji’s camps, visit www.muji.net/camp/.

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Tsumagoi

Tsumagoi

Tsunan


G I B B O N C U P 2 015

C

ome and see Japan’s top slack lining athletes test their balance, strength and style at the annual Gibbon Cup. This acrobatic performance has been embraced as a lifestyle sport and in recent years has become extremely popular in Japan, mainly because anyone can try it, regardless of age, gender or physique. It is also compact, easy to set up, and you do not need a lot of space. Slack lining has even been adopted by school and fitness gym programs and has been used for training and physical therapy for athletes. Organized by the World Slack Line Federation and Japan Slack Line Federation, this is Japan’s top slack lining contest. This year, the contest will be held in four prefectures across Japan. It started in May in Tokyo where Japan’s top slack lining athletes, Toru Osugi and Yukimi Fukuda, participated. Both have won on the world’s top stage. The contest continued in Kochi in June and then will take place in Yamanashi in August, ending in Nagano in October. To celebrate its fourth year, the competition added Yamanashi as a competition location with the contest commemorating South Alps city being selected as a UNESCO Eco Park. For more information, go to www.gibbon.co.jp.

GUIDE LINES

SEA TO SUMMIT 2015 T est your endurance and strength with outdoor challenge as you kayak through waves and along pristine shorelines, then cycle from the sea to the trailhead from where you hike to the summit – all in one day! Started in 2009, Montbell’s 7th Annual SEA TO SUMMIT has expanded to seven locations in Japan. Three races remain this year: Chokai-san (Akita/Yamagata) on Sept. 12-13, Okugawauchi (Osaka) Sept. 26-27 and Yuragawa (Kyoto) Oct. 3-4. Participants should participate both days with the race being held on the second day (Sunday). Registration opens on July 1. To apply or for more information, go to www.seatosummit.jp.

Montbell’s New Toyama, Tatayema and Okachimachi Stores G

et your hands on Montbell’s latest gear at three new locations. The Montbell Store at Mitsui Outlet Mall Oyabe Hokuriku, Toyama, will be open on July 16, with the mall being easily accessible thanks to the expanded Hokuriku Shinkansen route. The new Montbell store in Tateyama boasts 1,000 square meters of real estate, including a small pool where you can test-drive (or steer) kayaks. The new Okachimachi store, in the heart of Tokyo, will open in September. Web: www.montbell.com

SUMMER 2015

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Photo by Niseko Grand Hirafu

Niseko Grand Hirafu

G re e n Sea at the R s o n esorts

after the Snow Melts It is difficult to imagine Japanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s world-class ski resorts being anything but endless white slopes but, once the snow melts, the mountains come alive with possibilities for outdoor fun and adventure. Here is what is happening at your favorite resorts this summer. 50

T R AV E L E R


Tambara Lavender Park Escape the heat at Kanto’s largest lavender field. At 1,300 meters above sea level, Tambara Lavender Park’s endless purple plains stay at a comfortable temperature of 20 degrees C. The mountain lifts operate during the green season, so you can head up the mountain with children and elderly members of the family. Admission is ¥1,000 for adults and free for children. The park is open from July 4 to Aug. 30. Web: www.tambara. co.jp/lavenderpark/

Niseko Grand Hirafu Trekking

Tangram

Take the gondola up Mt. Annupuri to start a day of trekking, but be sure to stop by the gondola rest house where you can enjoy a summer-only nature exhibition. Kids can learn about the environment and go on guided nature walks and what better way to end the day than with a BBQ and cold beer? The BBQ garden is open until mid-October and is great for big family gatherings or parties with friends. Web: www.grand-hirafu.jp

Camping and Water Fun at Naeba

APPI

From May 1 to Nov. 8, Naeba’s 900-meter ski slope is transformed into a vast campground. The resort has plenty of water activities, including slip ’n’ slides, canoeing and “shower walking” – a milder version of canyoning, where kids and adults alike can cool off in the neighboring rivers. If your kids (or you) are missing the snow, take the gondola up 1,658 meters to check out igloos and a sledding area made with natural, preserved snow. Green season is in effect from July 29 to Aug. 30. Campgrounds will be closed from July 21 to 28. Web: www.princehotels.co.jp/ski/naeba/

Shiga Kogen Trails

Tanbara

APPI

Cool Off at Grandeco’s Lake District During the warmer months, visitors to Grandeco and Bandai Asahi National Park can enjoy lakeside activities at Lake Inawashiro or water sports in Japan’s fourth largest lake or other lakes in the area. The gondola at Grandeco runs during the green season and takes hikers to the start of a six-kilometer mountain trail to Lake Hibara. Experience a constant change of scenery during this two-and-a-half-hour hike such as the Dekodaira Marshlands, Hyakkan Shimizu hot springs and Nuno-taki waterfalls. Nature tours are also available with friendly English-speaking staff. If hiking isn’t your thing, there is a cruise that takes you around Lake Hibara and offers stunning views of Mt. Bandai. Remnants of winter are also left to create the perfect cool-off spot for some summer sledding. Admission to the grounds is free, but visitors will have to buy gondola tickets to reach this area. Web: www.grandeco.com

Myoko Suginohara Opens for Summer

Sixteen trails are spread out among Shiga Kogen’s majestic slopes with plenty to see along the way, including more than 40 ponds, marshlands and forests. Be sure to check the website before you go, as trails may be closed due to remaining snow or trail upgrades. Stop by the Shiga Kogen Visitors’ Center 98 at Hatsuike Pond, which also houses the Olympic Museum and Nature Conservation Center. The best time to view fireflies is from mid-July to August. Web: www. shigakogen.gr.jp

During the green season the Joshinetsu National Park has a myriad of forest hiking trails with picturesque lakes, waterfalls, plateaus and alpine flora. This area is also home to Mt. Hiuchi and Mt. Myoko. This August, Myoko Suginohara Ski Resort opens for the first time for the green season, with the gondola going up to 1,500 meters for hikers to explore. When the long day is over, soak in one of Myoko’s famous hot springs such as the Suginosawa Onsen, a five-minute drive from the base of the gondola. Web: www.princehotels. co.jp/ski/myoko/

Zip Around Tangram

Summer Fun at APPI

Fun for the whole family; jump on the zip line and hold on tight for a bird’s-eye view of Tangram’s forest and flower garden below. If trekking is more your speed, keep your boots on the ground for the hour-long trail that starts from the hotel and takes hikers up 1,100 meters to view Lake Nojiri and the five peaks of Nagano’s Hokushingokaku. The ski lifts are also in operation with views of the blooming flower gardens. Web: www.tangram.jp

July to August is the best time to see the night sky light up with fireflies at APPI. Take the gondola up to the APPI highland peaks or explore the beech forest on a guided tour. The cooling beech forest sits at an altitude of 800 meters and is exceptional in the mornings when the fog sets in. The resort also offers several family activities including fishing, mini-golf and even a small goat farm to delight the young ones. Web: www.appi. co.jp

SUMMER 2015

51


o!

Let’s G

Tanzawa Oyama Yamanami Stamp Rally Started April 1, 2015 Ends March 31, 2016 WHAT’ S A STAMP RALLY?

In Japan, a“stamp rally”is a popular“game”often put on by cities and towns where participants can collect stamps by visiting different attractions or locations in the area. Once they have collected all the stamps, they exchange the completed stamp rally cards for prizes. This year, the Tanzawa and Oyama areas will be hosting the“Yamanami Stamp Rally”with interesting locations ranging from train stations, ancient temples, trail heads and peaks of three famous mountains in the Tanzawa and Oyama areas. “What? I need to climb four mountains to collect my ve got until March stamps?”Yes, but no need to rush. You’ 31, 2016, to collect your stamps, and there will be a lucky draw at the end with some fantastic prizes.        

HOW TO PARTICIPATE • Pick up a stamp rally card at one of the stamp rally exchange stations. The stamp rally cards cost ¥500. • Enjoy hiking in the beautiful Hadano area and, when you reach a stamp station, get your card stamped. You can collect your stamps in any order you like. ve collected all the stamps, take your card • Once you’ to a Stamp Rally Exchange Station to collect your prize. Remember to get your card stamped for proof of completion. • Fill out your name, address and contact information on your card and hand it in at the Stamp Rally Exchange Station (remember to make sure you have the proof of completion stamped on your card). You can also mail in your card later.

STAMP RALLY EXCHANGE STATIONS

  Stamp Rally cards and prizes (in exchange for completed cards) are available at the following stations: • Donguri House (Okura): Near the Okura bus stop. Open: Weekdays 9 a.m. – 5 p.m., Saturdays, Sundays and holidays 7 a.m. – 5 p.m. (Closed on Mondays). Tel: (0463) 87-0021  どんぐりハウス(大倉)大倉バス停の近く       * 営業時間(平日) 9 a.m. – 5 p.m., (土日祝日) 7 a.m.   – 5 p.m. (月曜定休) • Hadano Tourist Office: Next to the Odakyu Line at Hadano Station. Open: All year round 9 a.m. – 8 p.m. Tel: (0463) 83-6477  秦野観光案内所  *営業時間 9 a.m. – 8 p.m. (年中無休)

52

T R AV E L E R

• Ohtsuya Kyarabuki Honpo: Located along the Oyama Koma Sandou. Open: 9 a.m. – 4:30 p.m. with occasional holidays. Tel: (0463) 95-2704  大津屋きゃらぶき本舗(大山こま参道)       * 営業時間 9 a.m. – 4:30 p.m. (不定休)

• Oyama Tourist Office: Next to the Oyama Cable Bus Stop. Open: All year round 7 a.m. – 5 p.m. Tel: (0463) 95-2013  大山観光案内所  *営業時間 7 a.m. – 5 p.m. (年中無休)             You can also purchase Stamp Rally cards, but NOT

exchange prizes at: • Isehara Station Tourist Office: Located near the north exit stairs of Isehara Station. Open year round: 9 a.m. – 5 p.m. (Closed for lunch from 12:30 – 1:30 p.m.) Tel: (0463) 95-5333 – cannot exchange.

WHAT KIND OF PRIZES CAN I WIN?

 Participants who’ ve collected all six stamps will receive

a“four seasons tenugui ”towel, available for those who complete this stamp rally. Towels with different seasonal motifs will be given out, depending on the month.  April – June: Spring motif towel  July – Sept: Summer motif towel  Oct – Nov: Fall motif towel  Dec – Mar: Winter motif towel  Starting this year, there will also be a“Grand Slam s motif towel comes with a special Award.”Each season’ sticker inside the bag. Collect these stickers from each of the four towels, and you will receive a 50th Anniversary of Tanzawa National Park and Grand Slam Award badge.  Also remember to mail in your completed Stamp Rally card for the lucky draw. Winners will receive special prizes ranging from outdoor goods to local specialties.

 伊勢原駅観光案内所(小田急線伊勢原駅北口階  段途中)  *営業時間 9 a.m. – 5 p.m. (12:30 – 13:30昼休み)   (年中無休)

WHERE CAN I GET MY STAMP RALLY CARD STAMPED?

  You must collect six different stamps from the

following stamp stations in order to complete your card: • Miyama Sansou (Tanzawa-san) みやま山荘(丹沢山) Tel: (090) 2624-7229 • Sonbutsu Sansou (Tounodake) 尊仏山荘(塔ノ岳) Tel: (090) 2569-6013 • Nabewari Sansou (Nabewariyama) 鍋割山荘 (鍋割山) Tel: (0463) 87-3298 • Oyama Sanchou (Oyama) 大山山頂(大山) Tel: (0463) 95-2013 (Oyama Shimosha Jinja) • Miyama, Sonbutsu and Nabewari stamp stations are inside the mountain huts (sansou ) on top of the mountains and can be reached by hiking up. Oyama does not have a mountain hut, but the stamp station is at the summit.  The other two locations are easier to get to:

• Donguri House (Okura) どんぐりハウス(大倉) Tel: (0463) 87-0021 • Oyama Tourism Office 大山観光案内所 Tel: (0463) 95-5333  *Make sure to check the opening/closing times for   each location beforehand.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

  “Let ’ s Go! Tanzawa Oyama Yamanami”Stamp Rally

Official Web site s Go! Let’ www.kankou-hadano.org/tanzawastamprally/ Hadano Tourism Office 秦野市観光協会 Tel: (0463) 82-8833 www.kankou-handano.org Oyama Tourism Office 大山観光案内所 Tel: (0463) 95-5333 http://oyama-kankou.a.la9.jp


He my nam llo e is Tanmaru

The 4th - Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Go! Tanzawa Oyama Yamanami Stamp Rally The Tanzawa Oyama Mountain Range of Kanagawa Prefecture is waiting for you! Complete the stamp rally to receive a limited-edition spring motif towel. Please visit our website for more details.


TRAVEL & ADVENTURE DIRECTORY HOKKAIDO

HOKKAIDO

Amazingly Dry Powder Snow

Head to Hokkaido's last frontier ' ' www.facebook.com/HokkaidoPowderBelt HOKKAIDO

HOKKAIDO

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NAGANO

SKI JAPAN

Season runs from December 3rd to May 6th (With Mother Natures Blessing)

Come in December, March or April and beat the crowds and save some money!

tel. 050 5532 6026 www.nozawaholidays.com

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T R AV E L E R


FUKUSHIMA

NAGANO

NAGANO

NAGANO

NAGANO

NAGANO

NAGANO

NIIGATA

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SUMMER 2015

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TRAVEL & ADVENTURE DIRECTORY NIIGATA

GUNMA

GUNMA

SAITAMA

Refresh your Mind, Body & Soul

SHIZUOKA

Refreshing outdoor adventure experiences under 2 hours from Tokyo!

Whitewater rafting, canyoning, adventure combos..... 0278-72-2811 www.canyons.jp SHIZUOKA

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TRAVEL & ADVENTURE DIRECTORY MICRONESIA

MICRONESIA

MICRONESIA

THAILAND

KOH LANTA  KRABI  THAILAND

email: reservation@pimalai.com

www.pimalai.com

Discover Nature, Discover Yourself. TAIWAN

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Outdoor Japan Traveler - Issue 56 - Summer 2015  

Our Summer 2015 Issue is all about islands, from diving into Japan's Oki Islands in the Sea of Japan to exploring some of Indonesia many isl...

Outdoor Japan Traveler - Issue 56 - Summer 2015  

Our Summer 2015 Issue is all about islands, from diving into Japan's Oki Islands in the Sea of Japan to exploring some of Indonesia many isl...

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