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ISSUE 53 | AUTUMN 2014 | FREE

Stand-up Adventures in Tahoe

タホ・カウンティのスタンダップ・アドベンンチャー

Power Place: Konpira-san

パワースポット「こんぴらさん」の1,368段

Haglöfs Turns 100

ホグロフスの100 年

Amazing Amami

奄美のすばらしい世界

  JAPAN WATERMAN MICRONESIA ISLAND HOPPING, ROCK & RUN, STAND-UP ON JAPAN’S GREAT LAKES AND MORE ADVENTURE

PEOPLE

C U LT U R E

TRAVEL


AUTUMN 2014

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I N S I D E I S S U E 5 3 ■ A U T U M N 2 014

22 F E AT U R E :

STAND-UP ADVENTURES IN TAHOE COUNTRY タホ・カウンティの スタンダップ・アドベンンチャー

14

30

36

43

46

F E AT U R E S

14

INSIDE

36

Power Places: 1,368 Steps to Konpira-san

Micronesia Island Hopping: Part 2

パワースポット 「こんぴらさん」の1,368段

ミクロネシア アイランドホッピング:Part 2

22

43

Stand-up Adventures in Tahoe Country

The Amazing World of Amami

タホ・カウンティのスタンダップ・アドベンンチャー

奄美のすばらしい世界

30

Q&A with Tristan Boxford インタビュー: トリスタン・ボックスフォード

46

Beyond the Brand: 100 years of Haglöfs 小さな山小屋から世界へ、ホグロフスの100 年

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06 08 10

From the Editor 編集後記

Guidelines

ガイドライン

Market Watch Cycling Japan

11

サイクリング・ジャパン

12

ビアー・バズ

13

ローカル 醸造

28

Freshwater Fun on Japan’s Great Lakes

51

オン・ザ・ラン

54

トラベル & アドベンチャー ディレクトリー

Beer Buzz The Local Brew

On the Run Travel & Adventure Directory


AUTUMN 2014

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■ FROM THE EDITOR Gardner Robinson, Editor-in-Chief gardner@outdoorjapan.com

S

ix years ago, Outdoor Japan moved from central Tokyo to Chigasaki, trading cityscapes for sunsets and single-gear bikes for beach cruisers. In 2012, my wife, Natsuko, and I moved near the beach a couple months before our son Tai was born. Every house on our little dead-end street has a surfboard resting against it. The house of our neighbor, Kazuya Suzuki, is littered with surfboards, stand-up paddle boards (SUP), graphite paddles, outrigger canoe gear and just about every other ocean toy you can think of. Kazuya routinely swims or paddles out to Eboshi, the shark-fin shaped rock that is the symbol of Chigasaki. He has paddled and swum out to Izu Oshima, which is no small feat. He and his friends at the Chigasaki

6

Outrigger Canoe Club epitomize what it is to be a waterman. Our cover this issue features some top SUP athletes racing by Eboshi. The Waterman League, the premier stand-up world tour, made its Asia debut with the Chigasaki Pro right in our backyard. SUP is one of the fastest growing sports, and you’ll see there are plenty of ways to enjoy SUP in Japan. In this issue we also we spend some time in Northern California exploring the crystal-clear waters

of Lake Tahoe and the refreshing beers from Anderson Valley. We welcome a new writer, Bonnie Wolcott, who heads south to the amazing Amami Oshima area. We also run and climb over rocks, visit one of Japan’s power places and continue island hopping around Micronesia. Autumn is a spectacular season for travel and outdoor adventures, and we hope you will get out, standup and enjoy the splendor before winter creeps in. Soon we will be on the move again to our new winter base in Nozawa Onsen. We are excited to head back to Nagano where Outdoor Japan started and looking forward to another amazing white season in Japan.

な楽しみ方がある。

年前、都内から茅ヶ崎へと引っ越 したアウトドアジャパンでは、都会

さて、今号では北カリフォルニアに

の風景のかわりに夕陽を楽しみ、シン

てどこまでも透明なレイクタホを訪れた

グルギアの自転車のかわりにビーチク

り、アンダーソンバレーからはさっぱりし

ルーザーに乗る毎日がはじまった。息

たビールもお届けする。新人ライター

子のタイが生まれる少し前、2012年に

のボニー・ウォルコットは奄美大島へむ

は妻のなつことさらに海の近くへと引っ

かった。もちろん日本のすばらしい山や

越した。

岩も登ったし、引きつづきミクロネシア

でパドルと水泳で行ったこともあるそうだが、大島ははる

ぼくらが住んでいる行き止まりの小さな路地にある

か彼方の島である。彼をはじめ、チガサキ・アウトリガー

家々で、サーフボードが立てかけられていない家はない。

カヌークラブの仲間たちはウォーターマンとは何なのかを

ご近所のスズキカズヤの家などは、サーフボードにスタン

体現していると思う。

ダップパドルボード(SUP) 、アウトリガーカヌーのほかに、 思いつくかぎりの海で遊ぶための道具がそろっている。

ではアイランドホッピング中である。 アウトドアや旅に最適な秋の到来。冬が来る前に秋 のすばらしさを体験しに外に出よう。 ところで、近々アウトドアジャパンは、新たな基地とな

今号のカバーには、SUPのトップアスリートたちが烏 帽子へレースする様子を採用した。ウォーターマンズ・

る野沢温泉に引っ越すことになった。ぼくらがスタート

カズヤはヒマをみつけてはパドルや水泳で烏帽子岩ま

リーグというSUPの世界ツアーが、ぼくらのバックヤー

した長野へもどって、日本の冬をすごせるのはひじょう

で行く。烏帽子岩というのはサメの背びれのような形を

ド、茅ヶ崎にて初のアジア大会を開催したのだが、い

に楽しみだ。

した茅ヶ崎のシンボル的な岩のことだ。彼は伊豆大島ま

まもっとも注目のウォータースポーツSUPにはさまざま

OUTDOOR JAPAN TRAVELER Published Seasonally Publisher Outdoor Japan Media

Media Coordinator Rie Miyoshi

Tim Rock, Robert Self, Justin Stein, Craig Yamashita

Editor-in-Chief Gardner Robinson

Contributing Editors Wayne Graczyk, Shigeo Morishita

Editor Bill Ross

Contributors Joan Bailey, Lee Dobson, Eddie Gianelloni, Bryan Harrell, Neil Hartmann, Abdel Ibrahim, Pauline Kitamura, Takashi Niwa, Tomoko Okazaki,

Translators Kumiko Kurosaki, Yoshine Lee, Eri Nishikami, Takeshi Sato, Lana Sofer

Art Director Yuki Masuko

Sales & Marketing media@outdoorjapan.com

©2014 OUTDOOR JAPAN INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. REPRODUCTION IN WHOLE OR IN PART WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION IS PROHIBITED. VIEWS EXPRESSED HEREIN ARE NOT NECESSARILY THOSE OF OUTDOOR JAPAN INC. PRINTED IN JAPAN.

AIRLINE PARTNERS

Traveler magazine is available at selected lounges, reservations counters and in-flight libraries with the following airline partners.

トラベラーマガジンは、空港ラウンジや予約カウンターや、右記航空 会社インフライト・ライブラリーにてお読みいただけます。

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T R AV E L E R

Outdoor Japan Media

6-6-55 Higashi Kaigan Minami Chigasaki-shi, Kanagawa 253-0054 〒253-0054 神奈川県茅ヶ崎市東海岸南 6-6-55 Tel: (0467) 81-3212 Fax: (0467) 81-3213 EDITORIAL: editor@outdoorjapan.com ADVERTISING: ads@outdoorjapan.com SUBSCRIPTIONS: subscribe@outdoorjapan.com

www.facebook/japantraveler www.twitter.com/outdoorjapan www.youtube.com/outdoorjapan

Cover Photo KURE


BANFF PRESENTS

MOUNTAIN FILM FESTIVAL IN JAPAN 2014 Official Main Partners

Presenting Partners

Supporting Partners

THE WORLD’S BEST MOUNTAIN FILMS 乗鞍高原:8月30日(土)  南アルプス市:9月27日(土)  京都:9月28日(日)  東京:10月10日(金)/ 11日(土)/ 12日(日)/ 13日(月・祝) 長野(松本) :10月4日(土)  妙高市:11月1日(土) 名古屋:10月19日(日) 大阪:10月25日(土)/ 26日(日)  横浜:11月8日(土)  札幌:11月16日(日)  みなかみ町:11月8日(土) 福岡:11月24日(月・祝) 仙台:11月29日(土)/ 30日(日)

http://www.banff.jp/ Ski Touring, Mt. Shuksan © Grant Gunderson

AUTUMN 2014

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GUIDE LINES

ASAGIRI JAM If you missed Fuji Rock this summer, there is still a chance to see some great music this fall. The good people at SMASH offer up a kinder, gentler version of Japan’s biggest music festival each autumn during Asagiri Jam. The popular music festival takes place over two days at the foot of Mt. Fuji. The organizers don’t release the lineup of artists until a couple of weeks before the show, yet tickets go fast and sometimes sell out even before the acts are announced. This year’s lineup that will appear on the three stages spread around the festival grounds includes G. Love & Special Sauce, Heymoonshaker, Soil & “Pimp” Sessions, Turtle Island, 1-800 Dinosaur, Mungos Hi Fi with Part 2 Style and Seiho, among others. Whether you’re pitching your tents, autocamping overnight or just making a day trip, the event is fun for the whole family. There are camping areas inside and outside the event grounds: flea markets, a variety of workshops, and a kids’ play area. Don’t have a car? There are plenty of ways to make it to the event. Take the Chokko (Direct) Bus tour, available from Shinjuku, Ueno, Saitama, Yokohama, Nagoya, Kyoto and Osaka or the Hachaku Yuryo Access Bus that picks up visitors from Shin-Fuji Station. Note there are no train stations that go directly to Asagiri Arena.

LOCATION: Asagiri Arena, Shizuoka DATE: Oct. 11-12 WEB: http://smash-jpn.com/asagiri

RED BULL HOLY RIDE The Red Bull Holy Ride is back in 2014. First held in 2010, the exciting, irreverent event takes place in Japan’s “holiest” city (with the blessing of the shrine) and attracts some of Japan’s top mountain bikers for non-stop downhill action. If you’ve been planning a trip to Kyoto this fall to soak up some culture and autumn colors, this is your chance to mix in some action—as only Red Bull does it—as well. The annual downhill event takes place at Kyoto’s Iwashimizu Hachimangu Shrine, founded in the ninth century during the Heian Period. Red Bull Holy Riders will speed down an 800-meter long, 100-meter high course through the shrine’s 396 stone steps. With bikers going down 22-degree slopes right in front of your eyes—or on the large-screen TV—you can see why this fast-paced one-day event is wildly popular.

LOCATION: Iwashimizu Hachimangu Keidai, Kyoto DATE: Nov. 29 WEB: www.redbull.com/jp/ja/bike/stories/1331674213571/red-bull-holy-ride-2014-announcev

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T R AV E L E R


AUTUMN 2014

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GUIDE LINES

CYCLE MODE INTERNATIONAL

THE 8TH ANNUAL HELL OF THE MARIANAS

Cycle Mode is Japan's biggest bicycle expo and test ride event and one of the largest cycling shows in Asia. It’s a must-see for anyone into cycling and cycling gear. You can check out all the latest models, pro rider exhibitions and educational sessions and even cycling fashion shows. There are also some bargains on bikes, frames and gear and more. This year the event takes place Nov. 7-9 at Makuhari Messe in Chiba. Visit www.cyclemode.net.

The Hell of the Marianas, the largest cycling event in the CNMI, gets rolling on Dec. 6. Join professional and amateur riders from around the world in Saipan to compete in this fun, challenging race. The 102-km. course starts and finishes at the Mariana Resort & Spa, the beautiful resort near many of the island's northern scenic sites. Ride solo or grab friends and make a two-, three- or four-person team. The event is a great way to get your legs in shape for winter while challenging yourself and enjoying an eco tour of Saipan. Lots of cash prizes for the top pro and amateur riders including best costume and best corporate team, and hotel discounts available for participants. Register online at www.hell-of-the-marianas.com.

Autumn Adventures

FUJI LAKES & WINERIES

COCO WINERY HARVEST FESTIVAL

MT. MITAKE AUTUMN HIKE

MT. OYAMA AUTUMN HIKE

Lake Kawaguchi is just a two-hour drive from central Tokyo. Enjoy a lake cruise, lunch at a local craft brewery and a visit to an ice cave followed by an afternoon touring the local wineries. Date: Oct. 19

The Coco Farm and Winery Harvest Festival is another great excuse to get out of Tokyo, relax and have fun in the Japan countryside. This annual harvest festival celebrates the new wines of the season. Enjoy great wine, live music, performances and gourmet food. Date: Nov. 15

Mt. Mitake, in western Tokyo, is a fun autumn hike. Take the cable car to the start point then enjoy the scenery: waterfalls, gorges, lush forests and more. Finish the day with a visit to the local riverside sake brewery. Date: Nov. 16

A day hike in Kanagawa’s Tanzawa-Oyama Quasi National Park is a great way to spend an autumn afternoon. Pass through lush forests, stop at traditional temples and shrines, cross bubbling brooks, and marvel at magnificent mountain vistas. On clear days mighty Mt. Fuji is visible. Date: Nov. 23

To find out more about group tours to these summer adventures and other great destinations, visit the Tokyo Snow & Outdoor Club. Web: www.tokyosnowclub.com

By Joan Bailey

MARKET WATCH Hamamatsu Organic Farmers Market

T

he coastal town of Hamamatsu, in Shizuoka Prefecture, sits roughly between Shizuoka City and Kyoto. Those who have traveled that way via Shinkansen will have zipped by, catching glimpses of the city's castle rising above the urban skyline on one side and seaweed fields in shallow ocean waters on the other. It also happens to be famous for eel, gyoza and musical instruments and, if Junko Suzuki has her way, the organic farmers market she manages will soon be added to that list. "I want this market to become famous," she said, as we walked among the tents. Started two years ago at the request of prefectural officials wanting to support local farmers, Shizuoka’s only

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T R AV E L E R

all-organic farmers market continues to thrive. A steady flow of customers snatch up all the fresh goods the farmers and producers can bring to this twice-monthly affair where tables groan with bounty. The last of the summer sweet corn, four kinds of local heirloom squash, sweet as well as spicy peppers, potatoes, edamame, okra, freshly harvested ginger with its long green woody stems still attached, carrots, satoimo (taro), gobo (burdock) and red as well as white sweet potatoes are just a few autumn specialties. Inoue Farm's selection of homemade pickles should not be missed. Their spicy pepper mix is tangy and zippy, with the right amount of kick, while their sweet cucumbers are another crowd favorite. Their tsurukubi, a long, sinuous winter squash with a smooth skin the same color as butternut, is a favorite regional heirloom. Hikari Farm, growing organically for more than 20 years, featured white eggplant and white squash among others, but their most interesting crop by far is not found on their table. Each year a handful of new farmers arrive to learn the ins and outs of daily farm work and the business of organic growing. Direct sales, farmers markets and a weekly box scheme of seasonal produce help support the farm, which provides

hands-on learning opportunities for new growers. A few tables down, Koboriyanonu to Tetsu, though, offered something unique and irresistible: ginger jam. As I overheard a list of possible uses (drizzled over tofu, swirled into tea, stirred into yogurt, served over hot rice…), I decided it had to go home with me. Farming for more than 10 years, Ishida works his grandfather's farm in the hills near Hamamatsu. There he does everything by hand from sprouting rice seeds saved from the previous harvest to ensure their organic integrity to weeding his vegetable fields to harvesting and drying rice in the fall. When shopping bags are full, visitors can also attend seminars on a variety of food and healthrelated topics on the second floor of the adjacent building. There’s a little something for everyone. HAMAMATSU ORGANIC FARMERS MARKET Second and fourth Sunday of each month 9:30 to 11:30 a.m. (go early for the best selection) Bus #30 from Hamamatsu Station to Isami Bashi (about 25 minutes; ¥340 one way)


Cycling Japan:

A JOURNEY TO EXPERIENCE THE LOCAL LIFE サイクリング̶それは

土地の暮らしを感じる旅

By Takashi Niwa Translated by Sakae Sugahara

ROUTE

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#

IZUMO KAIDO

Enjoy a route from Okayama’s Seto Inland Seaside to Izumo on the North Shore

TOTTORI

GOAL!

SHIMANE

TOTTORI

(Okayama, Tottori and Shimane Prefectures)

START!

出雲街道:瀬戸内の岡山から、日本海 の出雲へ(岡山県、鳥取県、島根県)

Pedaling past Mt. Daisen, one of the grandest mountains in the Chugoku Region. 中国地方屈指の名峰・大山を見ながら出雲へ

I

zumo Kaido is the collective name for the routes connecting the Izumo area with various cities in the Sanyo region along the Seto Inland Sea coastline. This includes one stretch from Kyoto that runs through Himeji and Okayama as it goes over the Chugoku Mountains to Izumo. We start our cycling journey from Okayama and go upstream along the Asahi River. Time permitting, a detour from the original kaido (route) to the castletown of Tsuyama is recommended. Past Katsuyama in Minawa City, the route いず

もかいどう

enters the Chugoku Mountains. Having passed the hot spring resort of Yubara Onsen and the Hiruzen Kogen highlands with a towering view of Mt. Daisen, we will then go over Utsumi Pass at an elevation of 646 meters, until the road descends north to the sea. This route meets the coast at Kaike Onsen, a spa district along the shore. The course flattens here through the fishing town of Sakaiminato, across the brackish lagoon of Nakaumi and on to Izumo-taisha. The grand shrine, full of ancient myths, marks the finish of this roughly 300-kilometer route from Okayama.

雲街道とは、出雲と瀬戸内海沿岸の山陽地方

湯原温泉、大山がそびえる蒜山高原を過ぎ、標高646m

の各地を結ぶ道。京都から姫路、岡山を経て、

の内海峠を越えると、日本海にむかって下る。

中国山地を越えて出雲へとむかう道もこれに含まれる。

 皆生温泉で日本海に出ると、そこからはほとんど平坦

 岡山からサイクリングを開始し、市内を流れる旭川沿

路となる。境港、中海、松江、宍道湖を経て、ゴールの

いを行く。途中で旭川を逸れて北東にむかうと城下町・

出雲大社をめざす。多くの神話の舞台であるここは、岡

津山となる。時間が許せば津山経由もおすすめだ。

山から約300kmのゴールにふさわしい。

 中国勝山を過ぎると、いよいよ中国山地越えとなる。

! Takashi Niwa actively organizes guided tours around the world, from the back alleys to remote villages WofAYTokyo GIVEA in Tibet. He has authored many books including “Otona no Tame no Jitensha Nyūmon” (Nihon Keizai Shinbun Shuppansha). His company, Niwa Cycling Tours (www.ncycling.com) organizes tours in Japan and around the world.

:にわサイクリングツアーズ(www.ncycling.com) を主宰し、東京の路地裏か 丹羽隆志(にわ たかし) らチベットまで、地球上のどこかをガイド。 『大人のための自転車入門』(日本経済新聞出版社刊)な ど著書多数。 AUTUMN 2014

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BEER BUZZ By Justin Stein

Beer in the Woods

G

FIND YOUR PERFECT GETAWAY!

Specializing in Resort Properties in Niseko Hanazono and Hakuba's Wadano Area

We provide real estate expertise and bilingual assistance for finding your ideal resort property. Phone: 03-3556-8887 info@yamate-homes.co.jp www.yamate-homes.co.jp

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T R AV E L E R

rab a bottle of Anderson Valley Brewi ng Compa ny ’s beer, a nd you w i l l notice the bear on the label. Does that bear have deer antlers? You get the sense there’s something different about this brewery. As AV BC’s owner Trey White tells it, their mascot Barkley the Beer (bear + deer = beer) symbolizes the high value they place on fun. Boonville (pop. 1,035) has no stoplights or fast food restaurants. The town, situated in the redwood forest California’s Northern Coast Range, attracts artists, organic food producers and other counter culturists. Aside from AVBC’s beers, and the local wineries that benefit from the Mediterranean climate, Boonville is best known for its local dialect, Boontling, which appears prominently on AVBC’s cans and bottles. The brewer y ’s motto, “Bahl hornin! ” translates to “Good drinking!” and can be used as a toast. Their flagship beers—Boont Amber Ale and Barney Flats Oatmeal Stout—are both exemplary examples of their respective st yles and dangerously easy to dr ink. Brewmaster Fal Allen says the two beers were designed by AVBC’s very first brewer back in the late 1980s, using whole-flower hops which “bring out a unique balance and character to the beer,” an unusual practice for a brewery of AVBC’s size. He has brewed for Anderson Valley since 2000, with a five-year hiatus during which time he helped Asia Pacific Breweries design their Singapore brewery and beers. Allen is an atypical brewmaster in that he considers recipe development a highly collaborative process. AVBC’s latest release in their Highway 128 Session Series (lowalcohol, but highly flavorful beers) was the result of input from their brewers as well as drinkers. As A llen tells it, one of the brewers wanted to experiment with sour mashing. Another brewer had been reading about a German sour wheat beer called gose (pronounced “goes-uh,”); an ancient, obscure style brewed with salt and coriander recently revived in America. After some test batches, the brewers found they got a more consistently clean acidity by souring the wort in the kettle for six to eight hours before the boil, rather than the traditional process of blending a more acidic mash soured for days into a conventional mash. Finally, the brewers couldn’t decide on acidity and salinity levels, so they did “a little market research” and gave out free one-ounce samples of various batches to see what was most popular. The research paid off. The Kimmie, The Yink and The Holy

Gose became the surprise hit of the summer. “Kimmie and yink” can mean “father and son” in Boontling, lending some local wordplay to this refreshing, flavorful beer. While other American craft breweries that were Anderson Valley’s size a decade ago have since undergone dramatic expansion, AVBC has maintained modest growth by design. “Growth has positive psychology for employees and customers, but we’d prefer Anderson Valley to be like a wine you see on the menu of a fine restaurant rather than in cases at a discount store,” White says. Their current growth is fueled by exports, and White adds it is unusual for a brewery their size to export so much. In Japan, AVBC’s cans, bottles and kegs are imported and distributed through Nagano Trading, their cold supply chain line, delivering them just as fresh as they are in the U.S. Anderson Valley is especially active locally. Their annual Legendary Boonville Beer Festival attracts five-to-six-thousand campers every May and has raised more than $1 million for Boonville’s community organizations, including trusts that manage local land and the Navarro River watershed. They also host other events, including a disc golf tournament on the brewery’s course, and are ecologically minded. They produce about half of their electr icit y from photovoltaic, recycle all their organic waste and treat their wastewater to irrigate their hopyards. This allows them to produce fresh hop beers, brewed the very day the hops are harvested. Even their 100-barrel copper brewhouse is recycled, salvaged from a closed brewery in Germany. Some of that beer goes into actual barrels — AVBC has an exclusive partnership to receive Wild Turkey bourbon barrels in which they age a variety of stouts; they also use a variety of local wineries’ spent barrels to sour their Horse Tongue Wheat giving it a dry, complex flavor. With such a diverse lineup of beers, Anderson Valley gives drinkers a lot of reasons to say, “Bahl hornin! ” WEB: www.avbc.com AUTUMN BEER CALENDAR OCT. 4-5, Craft Beer Kanazawa OCT. 4-5, Oktoberfest Kamakura OCT. 5, Japan Craft Beer Selection 2014 Award, Tokyo OCT. 11-14, Akita Oktoberfest OCT. 16, Oktoberfest Tokyo NOV. 23-24, Beer Hoppers Festival, Tokyo DECEMBER, Hop Revolution 2014, Tokyo


AMERICAN CRAFT BEER

By Bryan Harrell

Campion Ale

bottle shop & tasting room

Asakusa, Tokyo 東京浅草にあるカンピオンエール

O

ne of Japan’s smallest and coziest microbreweries just happens to be in its largest city. Campion Ale, located on the west side of Asakusa in Tokyo, provides a relaxing alternative to most of Japan’s more bustling microbreweries, while their strictly British-style beer offers a softer and smoother alternative to the American-style hop bombs being poured in most other places in Japan. Campion ales are brewed by James Williams, a calm, soft-spoken native of Surrey. Beers served each day are listed on their website, along with small, well-selected items of genuine pub food served, such as meat pies, sausage sandwiches, Scotch egg and small snacks. Aspall Suffolk Cyder (from apples) is also poured, along with wines, spirits and soft drinks. Note the food menu changes with the seasons, though not as frequently as the beer menu, so take a look at their site before you set out to get a good idea of what to expect. Bet-

ter yet, become a regular to best keep tabs on what’s offered. Beers on tap during my recent visit included Wheat Ale, Bitter (also known as Pale Ale when it’s from the bottle), Golden Ale, Scottish Ale and Porter. All are between a bit over four to slightly over five percent alcohol, with subdued hopping and mild, smooth flavors. I found the Bitter to be a superb example of something you could enjoy all night long, while the Scottish Ale had a pleasant amount of tangy roasted malt “toffee” flavor to set it apart from other ales. If you’re used to the huge, bold flavors of many other microbreweries, you’re certain to find Campion Ales a very pleasant change of pace. Best of all, Campion uses glasses in U.K. pint measures, about 20 percent larger than U.S. pints. Their pint is 568 ml. compared to the 473 ml. of a U.S. pint, which makes the Campion pint a great bargain at ¥1,000.

じんまりした

いいのは常 連 になっ

居心地の

て、好みのやつをいつ

いい地ビール醸

も用意してもらうことだ

造所がなんと日本

けど。 はウィートエールやビター

ル。場 所 は 東 京 浅 草 の

( 瓶になるとペールエー

西側。ほかの賑やかな地

ルと呼ばれるやつ) ゴール

ビール醸 造 所と違って、ここではリ

デンエール、 スコッチエー

ラックスできる。彼らのブリティッシュ

ル、 それとポーターでアル

スタイルのソフトでスムースなビール

コール度は4から5 %を上

も、 日本でよく見かけるアメリカンスタ

回るくらい。苦みは抑え気

イルのホップが効いたそれとは一味違う。

またほかのエールとはちょっと異なるスコティッシュエー ルが評判で、 トフィーと呼ばれるモルトをローストした独

吟味されていて、本物のパブで食べられるものばかり。

特の香りがいい。 

たとえばミートパイ、 ソーセージ・サンドウィッチ、スコッ

もしほかの地ビール醸造所で飲んだ地ビールの大

チエッグやおつまみ類。アスファル・ソフォークサイダー

味さに幻 滅したことがあるなら、 そんな人こそカンピオン

(原料リンゴ) も楽しむことができるし、 さらにワイン、 ス

エールで認識を新たにしてほしい。それにカンピオンで

れたし。とはいってもビールのメニューほどは頻 繁には 変わらないが。とにかく出かけるまえにサイトで目的の ものがあるかどうか、確認したほうがいいだろう。もっと

Order online at: WWW.antenna-america.com

味でマイルドでスムースな香り。

彼らのウェブサイトで公開されているし、 また料理もよく

また料理のメニューは季節ごとに変わるので注意さ

WE DELIVER ALL OVER JAPAN

ビターはすばらしく、一晩中つきあってもいいくらいだ。

リアムスが造っている。その日に提供されるビールは

ピリッツ、 そしてソフトドリンクもある。

Dine in Take out Cold SHIPPING

生ビールで飲めるの

の大都会のなかにある。 その 名はカンピオンエー

カンピオンエールはシドニー生まれのジェームス・ウィ

FRESH FROM THE BREWERY huge variety of bottles 8 rotating taps brewery merchandise & american food

はイングランドのパイントグラスを使用している。それは アメリカのパイントより20%も容量が多くて、473mlに たいして568mlもある。 つまりカンピオンのパイントグラス1 杯 1,000 円はかな りバーゲン価格、 お得なのだ。

Campion Ale カンピオンエール

2-2-2 Nishi Asakusa, Taito-ku, Tokyo 111-0035

〒111-0035 東京都台東区西浅草2-2-2

Phone: (03) 6231-6554 Web: www.campionale.com Open: Weekdays 5 to 11:30 p.m. Weekends and holidays noon to 11:30 p.m. (Last order is at 11 p.m.) 平日5:00pm-11:30pm 週末と祭日は正午から11:30pmまで (ラストオーダーは11pm)

No smoking. Children are welcome. Cash on delivery at the bar. Campion Ale is a short walk from Tawaramachi Station (Exit 3) on the Ginza Subway Line, one stop from Asakusa.

EVERYDAY OPEN yokohama, Japan 045-315-5228

5 MIN FROM JR KANNAI 関内 ST. facebook.com/antennaamerica twitter.com/antennaamerica

店内は禁煙、 子供連れ大歓迎。バーでの支払いはキャッシュオン。カンピオンエールへは銀座線で田原駅下車、 3番出口。 AUTUMN 2014

13


S E C A L P ER

POW

ト「こん ぴらさ パワー スポッ

ん 」の 1 ,3 6 8

O T S P E T S 1,368

N A S A R I P KON n By Lee Dobso

14

T R AV E L E R


Affectionately known as “Konpira-s an,” Kagawa’s Kotohira-gu Shrine is believed to be one of Japan’s power spots and home to a god that protects sailors. Curious travelers who climb the 1,368 steps arrive at a sacred place touched by both Shintoism and Buddhism. 「こんぴらさん」とは、香川県の金 刀比羅宮を人々 が親しみをこめて呼ぶ名称だ。ここはパワースポット として、また海上交通の守り神としても知られてい る。しかしこの奥 社にたどり着くには1,368 段の石段 を登らなければならない。

AUTUMN 2014

15


O

n the wooded slopes of Mt. Zozu sits a shrine where one can experience both the purity and sanctity of Shintoism and the hope of Buddhism. It is a place to commune with nature, and if you dare, look inwardly. The journey to Kotohira-gu, a shrine in the Kotohira Region of Kagawa Prefecture, involves a long, enjoyable approach from Kotohira Station flanked by shops selling local goodies such as sanuki udon and soy-flavored ice cream, as well as locally made figures and trinkets, charms and talismans. This leisurely stroll is followed by a fairly arduous climb; in fact many give up after completing the 785 steps to the main shrine. Commonly called “Konpira-san,� the shrine was formally a place to celebrate both religions until the Meiji Period when it was officially declared as a place of Shinto worship. However, elements of both religions linger and can still be savored in the aesthetics and the architecture. The guardian deity for navigation and fishing resides here. Between the entrance and the main hall, there are plenty of distractions including smaller shrines and a museum that will keep you occupied if you need a break. Soldier on though and you'll be rewarded with an open courtyard surrounded by Buddhist-style halls complete with an openair Noh stage and a pleasing breeze. To the left of the entrance to the main hall is a kind of outdoor gallery displaying ema (pictures) of ships and space rockets which were offered to the god in the hopes of protection while fishing or undertaking sea and space voyages. In keeping with the maritime theme, there is even a mini-sub on display within view of the main shrine. Walk the remaining 583 steps to the okusha (inner shrine), and you'll enjoy pristine views of the local area and get a peek at the stone carvings of tengu (a kind of demon) adorning a small cliff face. While today's image of tengu looks like a human with an exceptionally long nose, originally they were believed to be shape changers, mimicking birds of prey. Their eyes sat on the side of their face rather than the front, so they could see in any direction. They were considered harbingers of war not unlike crows, and ancient Buddhists depicted them as evil and believed they not only encouraged war, but also hung around the battlefield feasting on the wounded and dead. Their image softened over time into creatures with superhuman strength that protected the forests and the mountains. They are believed to be based on a similar dog-like creature appearing in Chinese mythology.

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々の緑に覆われた象 頭山の山並みにそ の神殿はある。ここは人と自然が交わる 聖なる場でもあり、修行によってはその真 理に触れることも可能だという。金刀比

羅宮を訪れるならば、まずは香川県の琴平町をめざす。琴 平駅からつづく通りには商店が並び、手頃な土産やお守 り、また讃 岐うどんや豆乳のアイスクリームなども楽しむこ とができる。 散策のつぎに待っているのは長い石段だ。ほとんどの人 は、あまりに長いため、785段目にある本殿で疲れてしまう。 「こんぴらさん」という名で親しまれてきたこの社は、かつて は神道と仏教が祀られていたが、明治時代になってからは 神道だけの社として公式に規定された。しかしながらそのふ たつの宗教の影響は建築様式などにいまも色濃く残ってい るし、航海と漁の神もまだここにある。 こんぴらさんへの入り口からメインホールまではさまざまな 娯楽がいたるところにある。小さな社や美術館もあるから、 そこに立ち寄って疲れを癒すのもいい。 がんばって石段を登りつづけるとやがて能舞台がある中 庭があり、吹き抜ける涼しい風に癒される。入り口からメイン ホールには屋外の展示スペースがあり、そこには船やロケッ トが描かれた絵馬が飾られている。それには海の航海や宇 宙旅行の安全祈願という意味が込められている。 海のテーマが多い本殿ではディスプレイのなかに小さな 潜水艦を見つけることもできた。 さて、残りの583段を登りきると、奥社に到着する。そこで は自然のありのままの景色を楽しむことができるし,天 狗の 石の彫刻を見ることができる。天狗は人の形をした悪魔の ような姿で異常に長い鼻を持っている。天狗は姿を変えた リ、猛禽類になって、悪戯をしたりすると信じられてもいる。 その両目は左右離れているために、どの角度からも視認で きるようだ。また天狗はカラスではなく、戦争の前触れとも 信じられ、古代の仏教では彼らは悪魔で戦争を助長するだ けでなく、戦場をうろついては、傷ついたり死んでしまった者 の上で宴を催すと信じられてきた。だが長い時間を経て、天 狗は森や山を守る者という認識にいつのまにか変わった。 天狗のルーツは中国の古い伝説に登場する犬のような空 想の動物からきているという。

AUTUMN 2014

17


Just off to the right of the shrine's main entrance is a path leading to Kanamaru-za Theater, Japan's oldest surviving kabuki playhouse. It was originally constructed in 1835 and is still home to kabuki for at least one month a year (April). Prior to that, the land where it now sits frequently hosted small makeshift theaters and lottery halls. The local geisha community raised the necessary funds and built the current theater to look like a popular theater in Osaka. The theater fell into disrepair before becoming recognized as an Important Cultural Property in 1970, after which it was restored to its former glory. It's now open to the public when not in use, and not only can you enjoy the ornately decorated hall, but you also have the opportunity to look under the rotating stage and see how it works. The Juichimen-Kannon (an 11-faced statue of a standing goddess of mercy), also resides in Kotohira-gu and has been designated an Important Cultural Property by the Japanese government. The highlight of this journey however is the Annual Grand Festival (Omiyuki Festival) held Oct. 9-11. Tens of thousands of onlookers flock there on the night of the 10th, when 500 participants carry a mikoshi (portable shrine) two kilometers to the Otabisho, a kind of outer shrine, where it is housed for a day or two. Spectators get a roaring show as the shrine is carried down 785 steps in a single dash. Spear bearers, part of the procession following the shrine, inspire awe as they toss tall halberds between each other. Considering this takes place in the dark, it is no mean feat. On the other days of the festival, we were entertained with lion dancers from Inabari, Ehime Prefecture, who performed in front of the main shrine before making their way precariously down the steps accompanied by taiko drummers and other dancers. The participants showed great skill and acrobatic prowess as they balanced themselves on each other's shoulders two or three people high while the child standing atop performs with either a sword or fan to the accompaniment of rhythmic drumming. Inside the main hall, priests in traditional costumes offered prayers to the haunting sounds of Shinto's mikagura or “god music.” For those who decide living large is more their thing, you could always pay for somebody to carry you up. Palanquins are available for hire at ¥5,300 one-way or ¥6,500 return. They’ll take you up as far as the main shrine. For many Japanese, Konpira-san is one of the nation’s great power spots.Even if you aren’t swayed by any particular religious ideology, it is hard not to become enamored by the shrine's charm and the peace and quiet of the surrounding forest. While the local evergreens might not be as hypnotic as autumn’s usual palette, the respite they offer from the usual hubbub of life might be just the ticket for recharging the batteries and preparing for the chilly months ahead. ✤

18

T R AV E L E R


金刀比羅宮の大通りが少し離れたところには金 丸座に つづく小道がある。その劇場は1835 年に建てられた日本 最古の歌舞伎小屋で、毎年1ヶ月間 (4月)歌舞伎が演じら れます。ここに金丸座が建てられる前には仮設の芝居小 屋や富くじの開札場がありましたが、地元の芸者衆が基 金を募り、大阪にある劇場を模した建物が造られた。1970 年になると、荒廃していたその劇場が文化的に貴重な建 築物であることが明るみになり修復された。現在、この金 丸座は、使用されていないときは一般に開放されていて、 装飾された場内や、また回転する舞台の仕組みまでも見 ることができる。 また金刀比羅宮には国の重要文化財である十一面観 音菩薩も安置されている。 金刀比羅宮の最大のイベントは10月9日から10日におこ なわれる例 大祭での御 神幸だ。総勢約 500 名の行列が 神輿をかついで本宮から御旅所へと2kmの行程を1万人以 上の観光客に見守られて進む。見せ場は785段を一気にく だる工程で、その迫力に圧倒される。習わしとして神輿の 行列につづく者同士が、長い鉾鎗を投げてはそれを捕らえ るセレモニーもおこなわれる。それは暗い夜におこなわれる ために鉾鎗を捕るのは至難の技といえる。 また大祭の別の日には愛媛県の名張市から獅子舞の踊 りがやってきて、本殿のまえの不安定な石階段で太鼓の音

Address Nozawa

に合わせて踊るパフォーマンスがある。彼らのアクロバティッ クな技術は卓越しており、車座になった踊り手の肩の上に は子供が立ち上がり、太鼓の音に合わせて剣を振り回す。 本殿では古式ゆかしい衣装に身を包んだ神官たちが記 憶に残る神楽の音を演奏する。  この金刀比羅宮には石段を駕篭で登るという選択肢 も用意されている。片道¥5,300、往復だと¥6,500で本殿ま で乗ることができる。  多くの日本人にとってこんぴらさんは特定の宗教を超 えたパワースポットであるといえる。ここにくれば神社や周 囲に広がる自然の美しさにだれもが魅了されてしまうからだ。 地元の山々が魅惑的な紅葉を迎えるにはまだ早い時期か

Kawamotoya

もしれないが、都会の喧噪を離れ、寒い季節に備える充電 の旅に出るのもいいかもしれない。✤

new!~

Kawamotoya’s Onsen

ESSENTIALS 交通アクセス The walk from the station (JR Kotohira and Kotoden Kotohira) is 10 to 15 minutes along an easy-to-follow route. Buses depart from the stations hourly and can take you up as far as the main gate which will give you a few less steps to climb. The fare is ¥500 yen one-way and reservations are required. Tel: (0877) 73-2221 (Japanese only). From Tokyo or Osaka take the Shinkansen to Okayama and then change to the Nanpu 25 Limited Express bound for Kotohira. Admission to the Kanamaruza Theater is ¥500 and it is open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.

The View Hotel’s Onsen 東京や大阪からは新幹線でJR 岡山駅をめざし、 そこか ら瀬戸大橋経由の特急に乗り、60 分でJR 琴平駅に着 く。JR琴平駅または琴電琴平駅からは15分ほど。バスを 利用すればメインゲートまで行くことができるが、徒歩で も石段は多くない。バス料金は500円で予約が必要。電 (日本語のみ) 話番号0877-73-2221 金丸座の入館料は500円 開館時間は9:00から17:00まで 金比羅山のホームページ:www.kompira.or.jp

Book Now:

www.nozawahospitality.com res@nozawahospitality.com Japan : +81 (0)269 85 2064 Singapore : +65 6412 0128

AUTUMN 2014

19


PAUSE FOR AUTUMN IN KYOTO I remember walking along the Midosuiji, Osaka's biggest avenue, a number of years ago. It was a Saturday afternoon, and it felt as though summer would continue forever. Not the unbearable heat and humidity of high summer, but late summer, where the light has a kind of golden hue to it: a lingering reminder that the season is still with us.

various shades of red, orange and yellow, you begin to crave satisfaction for your other senses.

I was in the financial district, so it was rather quiet, almost deserted, and I was enjoying the sun's warmth as I ambled along to the station. For just an instant, I felt the slightest of breezes touch my shoulder. It sent a shiver up my spine, and I experienced a moment of acute sadness and loneliness.

ll be greeted by doorways decorated with Walk around Gion, and you’ seasonal flowers and women dressed in kimono, sporting autumn motifs and accessories. Be careful where you step though as fruit-laden chestnut trees begin littering the street with their spiky spoils.

I pondered the feeling for some time, not quite understanding what I had felt, or why. I felt it again the following year, although in a different place, s first presence. and then I realized this was autumn’

street.

Coming from a place where seasons are divided into“wet”and“dry,”I felt Japan provided me with my first opportunity to fully enjoy a seasonal change. After you get over the visual fiesta of the colored leaves and their

20

T R AV E L E R

I like nothing better than to simply stroll around Kyoto and take in the sights, sounds and smells of autumn, especially during early November when the season fully takes hold.

As you pass by the open doors of local eateries, enjoy the aroma of akino-mikaku (popular autumn food) being prepared that spills out onto the s spectacular Zen garden that comes to life with Visit Toufukuji’ color during November. The colored foliage sits affront centuries-old architecture that epitomizes autumn in Japan. – L.D.


Tofukuji is a 10-minute walk from Tofukuji Station on the JR Nara Line (two minutes, 140 yen from Kyoto Station) and the Keihan Main Line. Alternatively, the temple is a 10-minute walk from Tofukuji bus stop (15 minutes, ¥230 from Kyoto Station by Kyoto City Bus 208). Hours: 9 a.m to 4:30 p.m. (April to October) 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. (November to early December) 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. (early December to March) Admission ends 30 minutes before closing time. Admission: ¥400 (Tsutenkyo Bridge and Kaisando Hall), ¥400 (Hojo and gardens) Web: www.tokufuji.jp

Visit Ginkakuji. While not strictly known for its s sand garden more than gardens in autumn, Ginkakuji’ makes it worth the effort to visit and, as you walk through the ll be rewarded with the odd small grove, you’ maple leaf lying on the brilliant green moss. Ginkakuji can be accessed by direct bus No. 5, 17 or 100 from Kyoto Station in about 35-40 minutes and for ¥230 one way. Alternatively, you can reach Ginkakuji by foot along the Philosopher's Path from Nanzenji in about 30-45 minutes. Hours: 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m.

AUTUMN 2014

21


STAND-UP ADVENTURES IN

Photo by Ryan Salm

タホ・カウンティの スタンダップ・アドベンンチャー

22

T R AV E L E R

Tahoe


Country By Seth Lightcap & J.P. Martin

Lake Tahoe is home to a tight-knit community of people who love to push the limits of the outdoor sports they love. Over the past several years, stand-up paddle boarding has burst on the scene as a refreshing way to get some exercise on the majestic lake and explore backwaters, nearby alpine lakes and even local rivers.

タホ湖のコミュニティの人たちはみんな仲がよい。彼らが大好きなアウトドアス ポーツのこととなると、とことん限界に挑戦する。この数年スタンダップ・パドル ボーディングがここでも大きなブームとなっている。美しい湖での爽 快なエクササ イズとしてもいいし、奥地や近くの高地湖、さらには川の探検もまた楽しい。

AUTUMN 2014

23


T R AV E L E R

Photo by Ryan Salm

North Tahoe / Jeff Dow

24

North Tahoe / Jeff Dow

Photos by Ako Martin


Tahoe Country

T

he Sierra Nevada forms a 640-kilometer spine from north to south, mostly in California with a slight dip into Nevada. The mountains are home to Yosemite Valley’s famous granite monuments, such as Half Dome and El Capitan, and the highest mountain in the contiguous United States (Mt. Whitney, 4,421m). These mountains provided incredible wealth during the California Gold Rush and gave us craft beer perfections in Sierra Nevada Pale Ale. Yet the real jewel of the Sierras is the deep, ever-clear waters of Lake Tahoe. Like the mountain range, the lake straddles California and Nevada. The surface is nearly 2,000 meters above sea level, making it the largest alpine lake in North America. Tahoe is home to a number of ski resorts, such as Squaw Valley and Heavenly, and has a reputation for producing some of the world’s best big mountain skiers and snowboarders. It’s a year-round natural playground with each season offering a stunning backdrop for outdoor fun, and indoor diversions can be had at the big casinos on the Nevada side of the lake. Over the past six years, stand-up paddle boarding (SUP) has been embraced by Lake Tahoe’s active community like a bear hug from a best friend. Enthusiasm for the relatively new water sport has caught on for good reason. It’s a fun, active sport that provides exercise and adventure as well as serene moments exploring the region’s stunning lakes and waterways. Now firmly rooted as a favorite Tahoe pastime, SUP is following a similar path to skiing; gung-ho enthusiasts are pushing the boundaries of the sport and seeking excitement beyond the quiet coves of Lake Tahoe’s Sand Harbor or Emerald Bay. They are taking their skills into competition

and the backcountry. The Truckee-Tahoe area hosts major SUP races in the summer months from May to September, drawing participants from all over the world. Race days are fun and competitive for all ages. The competitive vibe isn’t for everyone though; some just prefer a quiet paddle on Lake Tahoe’s incredibly clear waters, yet an increasingly popular local SUP pursuit is the exploration of backcountry lakes and rivers using inflatable paddleboards. Inflatables are constructed with ultra-tough rubber similar to whitewater river rafts and are significantly more durable and easier to transport than a fiberglass SUP. After hiking in to explore your favorite lake in the Tahoe Region, it’s easy to blow up the boards with a portable hand pump. When deflated, the inflatable SUP can be rolled into a backpack that weighs less than 30 pounds. The durability of these inflatable SUPs also opens the potential to run rivers. You’ll need solid river skills to navigate whitewater safely on an SUP, but you’ll only have to worry about damaging your body, not your board, when you fall off. “Inflatable SUP boards bring a whole new challenge to running rivers. Even mellow whitewater is a thrill on an SUP,” said Jared Licht, a local former pro kayaker. “But it’s important to understand the dangers of a river before getting in. There are many more ways to get in trouble on a river than on a lake.” For some, being a “waterman” doesn't mean you put your board away when the weather gets chilly. Professional standup paddler Jay Wild has competed in warm exotic waters the world over, but his favorite place to paddle demands wearing

more than just board shorts. “I get asked daily where is my favorite place to paddle,“ says Wild. “Every time my answer is the same; mid-winter on Lake Tahoe.” SUP may seem like a strictly warm weather pursuit in the high elevation waters of Lake Tahoe but, as Wild notes, mild winter days can often offer fantastic paddling conditions. “Winter paddling on Lake Tahoe is magical,” he adds. “More times than not, I am all alone on the water without any other boats for as far as the eye can see. The serenity you can enjoy on the lake mid-winter is a complete contrast to the summer months. It’s just you and the snow-capped peaks.” Wild’s love affair with paddling on Lake Tahoe inspired him and a couple partners to open Waterman’s Landing, a lakefront café and paddleboard shop. The shop is open yearround and offers food, equipment, rentals and sage advice about when and where to paddle. Unlike summer months, when paddling on Lake Tahoe is fairly benign, the cold water (hovering around 3 ºC) and tumultuous winter weather require careful consideration before you head out. Ten years ago, flatwater stand-up paddling was an enigma to the surf-riding crowd. Today SUP has found a home in the Sierra Nevada amid the majestic beauty of Lake Tahoe. With close to 124 kilometers of shoreline and 35 kilometers from end to end, the possibilities for exploration are endless. The clarity of the water makes for a unique experience on a stand-up board; you never know what you will see under your feet while gliding around the lake. Whether you are after peaceful cruising with friends, exploring high alpine lakes, competing against other enthusiasts or even running rivers, Tahoe has something for every paddler. ✤

エラネバダ山脈は南北640kmにわたってい

トラッキー・タホ地域では、5月から9月の夏のあいだ、SUP

る」というのはワイルドだ。 「答えはいつもおなじ。真冬のタ

る。そのほとんどを占めるのがカリフォルニ

の大会が催され、世界中からSUP愛好家が集まる。レース

ア州だが、ほんの少しネバダ州にもかかっ

当日は激しい競争が繰り広げられるが、年令を問わず楽し

高地のタホ湖では、SUPは暖かい気候のときのみの娯楽に

ている。この山脈には、 ハーフドームやエル・

める。もちろん競技だけではなく、タホ湖の澄みきった水面

みえるが、ワイルドが言うように、冬でも比較的温暖なときに

キャピタンなど、ヨセミテ渓谷の有名な花崗岩の地形があ

を静かにパドルすることを好む人たちもいる。だが、ここで

は、パドリングに最適なコンディションとなることも稀ではない。

るほか、アメリカ合衆国本土でもっとも高い山 (ホイットニー

最近人気を博しているのは、インフレータブルのパドルボー

山4,421m) もある。 これらの山々は、 ゴールドラッシュの時代、 ドで僻地の湖や川を探検することだ。 ひじょうに繁栄し、たくさんの富とともにシエラネバダ・ペー

インフレータブルは、ホワイトウォーターラフティング用のゴ

ホ湖だよ」

「冬のタホ湖でのパドリングは魅惑的だ」 と彼はつづける。 「たいていの場合、僕はひとりなんだ。見渡すかぎりボート の1 隻もない。真冬の湖で静かなひとときを楽しめるのは、

ムボートに使われる素材とおなじような耐久性の高いゴムで

夏とはほんとに対照的だ。雪を被った峰々を見ながらバドル

しかしシエラにあるとても貴重なものといえば、どこまでも

つくられており、ファイバーグラス製のSUPと比べると耐久性

する自分がいるだけ」

透き通る透明度の高いタホ湖の水だ。山脈とおなじように、

も持ち運びもかなり優れている。タホ地域にある好みの湖

タホ湖でのパドルをこよなく愛するようになったワイルド

湖もカリフォルニア州とネバダ州にまたがっている。水面は

までハイキングし、あとは携帯のハンドポンプでボードを膨ら

は、数人のパートナーとともにウォーターマンズ・ランディン

海抜約2,000mで、北米では最大の高地湖だ。

ませば、探検準備完了。空気を抜けばインフレータブルSUP

グという湖畔のカフェ兼パドルボードショップを開くこととなっ

は丸めてバックパックに入るし、重さは15kgもない。

た。店は年中無休で、食べ物、器具、レンタルのほか、い

ルエールという完璧なるクラフトビールを生みだした。

タホ湖には、 スコーバレー、 ヘブンリーなど、 数多くのスキー

つどこでパドルすべきかという賢明なアドバイスも得られる。

リゾートがあり、世界のトップクラスであるビッグマウンテン・

その優れた耐久性のため、このインフレータブルSUPは川

スキーヤーやスノーボーダーを生みだしている。季節にかか

下りなどの可能性をももたらしてくれる。SUPでホワイトウォー

わらず壮大な景色のもとでアウトドアを楽しむことができ、湖

ターを安全に航行するにはかなりの技術を要するが、ボード

い水 (たいてい摂氏3℃を保っている) と厳しい冬の天候に

のネバダ側に行けば、気分を変えて屋内の娯楽もある。

から落ちて心配なのは自分の怪我だけで、ボードは安全だ。

より、湖水に出る前にかなりの注意が必要だ。

タホ湖でのパドリングは危険がほとんどない夏と違い、冷た

この 6 年、タホ湖の活動的なコミュニティは、失われて

「インフレータブルSUPボードによって、川の急流における

10年前、静水でのスタンダップ・パドリングは、波乗りをす

いたなにかを見つけた興奮ぶりでスタンダップ・パドルボード

限界がまた新しく広がった。穏やかなホワイトウォーターでも

る者にとっては不可解なものだった。だがいまやSUPは、ま

(以下SUP)に熱中している。SUPは比較的新しいウォーター

SUPだとスリルだよ」というのは地元に住む元プロカヤッカー

るでシエラネバダの家族の一員のように美しいタホ湖になく

スポーツだが、楽しくエクササイズになるだけでなく、この地

のジャレッド・リヒトだ。 「でもはじめる前に川の危険をじゅう

てはならない存在となった。湖は端から端まで35kmの長さが

域のすばらしい湖や川などを探検したり、大自然をゆったり

ぶん理解しなくちゃいけない。湖と違って川では危険な要素

あるため、湖岸線はおよそ124 kmにおよび、探検の可能性

と体験できることが人気の理由だ。

がたくさんあるからね」

は限りがない。

いまやタホでの娯楽として定番となったSUPだが、スキーと

ウォーターマンを自称する者にとって、寒さの到来はかな

さらに水が透明なため、SUPで湖を巡るといままで存在す

おなじ道を辿っている。タホ湖のサンド・ハーバーやエメラル

らずしもボードをしまうことではない。プロのスタンダップパド

ることさえ知らなかったようなものに目にすることができ、特

ド・ベイなどの静かな入り江を散策することにはじまり、熱心

ラー、ジェイ・ワイルドは、世界中の暖かなエキゾチックな場

別な体験ができる。友達と気ままにクルージングするもよし、

な愛好家たちがエキサイトメントを求め、高度な技術を駆使

所で競技に参加してきたが、彼がパドルでとくに好む場所

高地湖を探検するもよし、ほかのマニアと競争したり、急流

して競技をしたり、僻地へむかうなど、新たな楽しみ方に挑

は、ボードショーツでは無理なのだ。

を流れるもよし、タホでならどんなパドラーもSUPを満喫する

戦している。

「パドルでいちばん好きなところはどこか?といつも聞かれ

方法を見出せるはずだ。✤

AUTUMN 2014

25


Tahoe Country

By the Numbers: Lake Tahoe

タホ・ツアー

Cloudline Tours made a name for themselves specializing in tours to Japan’s best powder playgrounds, often featuring winter sports pioneers on their trips. In addition to their winter tours to Japan, they have recently added stand-up paddleboard adventures on Lake Tahoe to their schedule. Based in the Truckee area, but with roots in Japan, CoFounders J.P. and Ako Martin have a keen insight in both places. They organize trips that allow guests to enjoy the culture and the surroundings in style.

クラウドライン・ツアーズは、日本の最高のスキー

As with the powder tours, the stand-up trips in Lake Tahoe feature local professional guides familiar with the area and off-the-beaten-path destinations. Their tours feature SUP coaching, private yoga sessions and plenty of time to explore the area and relax. To find out more about their tours and SUP in Tahoe, visit www.cloudlinetours.com.

場へのツアーを専門として名を馳せ、スキーにお

数字で見るタホ湖: • 北米最大の高地湖。 • アメリカ合衆国で2 番目に 深い湖 (オレゴン州のクレイ ター湖が593mでもっとも深 い) 。

けるパイオニアたちが登場することもよくある。日 本への冬のツアーという専門以外に、最近はタホ 湖へのスタンダップ・パドルボード・アドベンチャー を予定に組み込んでいる。トラッキー地域を本拠 地としながらも、ルーツは日本である共同創立者 のJ.P. とマコ・マーチンは土地の文化や、その近郊 をスタイリッシュに楽しめる旅を企画している。

• 貯水量は五大湖に次ぎ6 スキーツアーと同様、タホ湖へのSUPツアーも、あ • • • • • •

番目。

まり知られていないユニークな場所など、土地に

水面の標高は1,897m。

詳しい地元のプロが案内してくれる。ツアーでは、

面積:496.2km²。

SUPのコーチやプライベートなヨガセッションを受

貯水量:150.7km³。

けることができ、探検もリラックスもじゅうぶんで

長さ :35km。

きるように時間が組まれている。タホのツアーお

幅:19km。

よびSUPにかんする詳細は、www.cloudlinetours.

水深:501m。

com にて。

Photos by Chris Bartkowski 

• Largest alpine lake in North America • Second deepest lake in the U.S. (Oregon’s Crater Lake is the deepest at 593 meters) • Sixth largest lake by volume (behind the five Great Lakes) • Surface elevation: 1,897 meters • Area: 496.2 km² • Volume: 150.7 km³ • Length: 35 kms. • Width: 19 kms. • Depth: 501 meters

Tahoe Stand-up Tours

26

T R AV E L E R


n o a h n i c . c o m

AUTUMN 2014

27


Freshwater Fun on Japan’s Great Lakes By Rie Miyoshi

s recently as a few years ago, surfing dominated the marine sports market in Japan while stand-up paddling (SUP) was rising to the surface of the ocean sports scene. Today, a stand-up craze is sweeping Japan’s coastlines and lakes. “Just two years ago, 70 percent of my sales came from surf products,” Eiji Suzuki, CEO of Boardworks, one of Japan’s leading stand-up paddle board distributors, says. “Now, 90 percent comes from stand-up paddling. There’s an obvious SUP boom happening right now.” Freshwater paddling is the fastest growing market, most likely due to the accessibility for paddlers of all ages and experience levels. Japan’s countryside is filled with alpine and coastal lakes that offer scenic stand-up paddling experiences while getting a fitness fix. The pristine lakes listed below have almost no currents, which makes them a safe place to get your feet wet on a stand-up board. Summer is the most popular season, yet autumn is a beautiful time to paddle among the koyou, (colorful changing of the leaves) as you glide across some of Japan’s mountain lakes.

FUJI FIVE LAKES PADDLE BENEATH ICONIC MT. FUJI Fujigoko (Fuji Five Lakes) includes Kawaguchiko, Yamanakako, Motosuko, Shojiko and Saiko. The lakes surround Mt. Fuji, the World Heritage site and undoubtedly Japan’s most famous natural icon. In autumn, the exceptional visibility makes Japan’s highest peak stand even taller as you paddle around the clear lakes. At 1,000 meters above sea level, cool mountain breezes welcome visitors year-round, although most operators recommend paddling before October, when winter begins to set in. NAME:Wakeboard Gakuroku Marine LOCATION: Lake Yamanaka, Shizuoka SUP SERVICES: Rentals, tours, SUP classes SEASON: April-November KOYOU SEASON: Late October to Early November ENGLISH-SPEAKING STAFF: Available upon request and early booking ACCESS: From Shinjuku Station, take the kosoku bus to Hirano (130 minutes). PHONE: 090-9301-3760 WEB: www.wake-yamanakako.com NAME: Water Crab LOCATION: Lake Yamanaka, Shizuoka SUP SERVICES: Rentals SEASON: July-Late September ACCESS: From Shinjuku Station, take the kosoku bus to Hirano (130 minutes). PHONE: (0555) 65-9988 WEB: www.watercrab.com NAME: Motosuko Activity Center LOCATION: Motosuko, Yamanashi SUP SERVICES: Rentals, SUP tours SEASON: June-October

28

T R AV E L E R

Wakeboard Gakuroku Marine

A

ACCESS: 40-minute car ride from Kawaguchiko Station (Fujikyu Line) or Kaitokiwa Station (JR Minobu Line). PHONE: 080-8746-8622 WEB: http://eco-motosuko.jp

LAKE BIWA EXPLORE ONE OF THE WORLD’S OLDEST LAKES Located in the Kansai Region, Lake Biwa in Shiga Prefecture is Japan’s largest freshwater lake at 670 square kilometers. Regarded highly for its history and beauty, Biwako sustains the village’s economy and industries. Additionally, more than 1,000 species of flora and fauna have been recorded at this ancient lake which remains an important area for migratory birds. While paddling, be sure to gaze upon Shirahige Shrine. If you’re feeling adventurous, tour the rivers that feed into Biwako, then have a delicious lunch or dinner at Restaurant Ensoleiller afterward. NAME: O’Pal LOCATION: Lake Biwa, Shiga SUP SERVICES: Tours SEASON: July-October KOYOU SEASON: End of October ACCESS BY TRAIN: O’Pal is a 15-minute walk from Ogoto Onsen Station on JR Kosei line. PHONE: (077) 579-7111 WEB: www.o-pal.com

LAKE NOJIRI ISLETS, ISLANDS AND COVES Nagano’s second largest lake is beloved by visitors for the interesting islets, coves and rivers

that feed the lake. Also called “Fuyouko” for its similar shape to the fuyou leaf (a type of hibiscus plant), this ancient glacial lake is famous for the numerous fossils found here over the years. While paddling, try to drop by Biwajima, a small island that sits in the center of the lake. This island houses the Uga Shrine and is a popular spot for paddlers to catch their breath while being surrounded by the peaceful forest. If you enjoy autumn hikes, be sure to check out the nearby Shin-etsu Trail, one of Japan’s great hiking trails. NAME: M-Planning LOCATION: Lake Nojiri, Nagano SUP SERVICES: Rentals, tours, “Floating Board Fitness” classes. English-speaking staff available. SEASON: May 10-Oct. 19 KOYOU SEASON: End of September to beginning of October ACCESS: From Joshin-etsu Expressway KurohimeNojiri IC, take Rt. 18 heading toward Joetsu for five minutes until you reach the Lake Nojiri. PHONE: 090-9358-1850 WEB: http://mplanning.jimdo.com

LAKE KIZAKI HIGH ALPINE PADDLING AT THE FOOT OF THE JAPAN ALPS At the base of Nagano Prefecture’s trademark mountains—also called the northern Japanese Alps – lies Lake Kizakiko. The southernmost lake of the three Nishina lakes, it is located on the fault line that separates Honshu Island into East and West Japan. After a long day out paddling on this glassy lake, relax at the hot springs resort on the southern lakeside or cook a fresh meal at one of the campgrounds surrounding the lake.


Sports Club ZAC

Kizakiko Pow Wow Kizakiko Pow Wow WCS Surf

NAME: Kizakiko Pow Wow LOCATION: Lake Kizaki, Nagano SUP SERVICES: Rentals, tours, SUP classes SEASON: April-November KOYOU SEASON: End of October ACCESS: 20-minute walk from Uminokuchi Station (JR Oito Line) PHONE: (0261) 85-2494 WEB: http://kizakiko-powwow.com

LAKE ONZUI RIVERSIDE FUN AND TRANQUIL WATERS Part of Hikihara Dam, this man-made lake has very little wind, making it a perfect training ground for first-time paddlers. Onzuiko is surrounded by natural greenery and hills and showcases the beauty year-round from sakura season to koyou. During the warmer months, the rivers that feed into this lake are popular spots for paddlers to venture up and enjoy a swim. NAME: Onzuiko Canoe Club SUP SERVICES: Tour/classes, rentals SEASON: May-October KOYOU SEASON: End of October ACCESS: From the Yamazaki IC on the Chugoku Expressway, head north on Rt. 29 (heading toward Tottori) for 30 kilometers. PHONE: (0790) 73-0335 WEB: www.onzuiko.com

LAKE HAMANA SHIZUOKA’S GREAT COASTAL LAKE This saltwater lake, on the coast of Shizuoka Prefecture, may not be tucked away in the mountains, but it makes up for its lack of trees and seclusion with a special SUP experience. Visit the sandbar—too shallow for boats to

access—and discover the lake’s marine life. Paddle out to Bentenjima, an island in the middle of the lake, and enjoy the view of the great torii gate. When you’re done for the day, spend the evening at Bentenjima’s onsen and resort hotel or drop by Kanzanji Onsen, the famous hot spring resort located on the inlet. NAME: WCS Surf SUP SERVICES: Tours, classes, rentals (class necessary) SEASON: April-November KOYOU SEASON: Late November to Early December ACCESS: 15-minute walk from Bentenjima Station. PHONE: (053) 592-2484 WEB: www.wcs-surf.com

EXPERIENCE TOKYO’S SKY TREE BY RIVER If you’re in Tokyo and can’t make it to the mountains, you can still try stand-up paddling in the city. Thanks to the many canals constructed during the Edo Period, you can SUP your way down the Edogawa district waterways. Capture impressive views of Japan’s tallest structure, the Tokyo Skytree, from this rare vantage point. Although the canals wind through the urban landscape, there are plenty of riverside trees and flowers in full bloom during the spring and changing colors in autumn, making the SUP experience in Tokyo refreshingly different. NAME: Outdoor Sports Club ZAC SUP SERVICES: Tours, beginner classes, fitness classes SEASON: April-December

KOYOU SEASON: Mid-November ACCESS: 10-minute walk from Funabori Station PHONE: (03) 6671-0201 WEB: www.zacsports.com

AUTUMN 2014

29


Q&A The Waterman League CEO Tristan Boxford

With Gardner Robinson トリスタン・ボックスフォード (ウォーターマンズ・リーグCEO) インタビュー:ガードナー・ロビンソン

30

T R AV E L E R

The Waterman League made its first splash into Asia with a successful event in Japan. Outdoor Japan talks to the world stand-up tour CEO Tristan Boxford about the growth of the sport, the race series and the recent Shonan Chigasaki Pro. 初のアジア大会を日本で開催したスタンドアップパドルのワー ルドツアー、ウォーターマンリーグ。CEOであるトリスタン・ボッ クスフォードにSUPとレース、そして湘南・茅ヶ崎プロについ て語ってもらった。


GARDNER ROBINSON What’s your background in ocean sports? TRISTAN BOXFORD I was a professional windsurfer for many years. European Champion, British Champion, and I reached the Top 10 in the world for a few years. The ocean has been such an amazing playground for me, and I’ve been fortunate to be able to do so many ocean sports, and I love them all. G And you come from the surfing hotbed of England… T Yeah (laughs) but, hey, it’s an island, a big island surrounded by water, with a rich seafaring tradition. But, yeah, it’s cold and miserable most of the time, not as nice as Hawaii where I live now, with beautiful weather and consistent surf. In England we gotta wait for a storm to get waves. G WHEN DID YOU TRANSITION INTO ORGANIZING EVENTS? T I had always enjoyed the media and event side of things. Windsurfing began to stagnate for me when the races became less appealing in terms of locations and conditions. I began working on a project called The Ocean Games. In 2007, we launched the event in Maui with athletes participating in shortboard and longboard surfing, stand-up, windsurfing, kite, all the ocean sports. It was really well received, to the point we were in discussions with ESPN to make it a sister product to the X Games. They had just dropped surfing but still wanted to address the sport…and then the economy tanked in the U.S.

GARDNER ROBINSON オーシャンスポーツは昔からやって いたのですか?

G When was The Waterman League formed? T It was a quiet couple of years after the Ocean Games, but we re-organized as The Waterman League in 2009 with the goal of being an organizing body covering the spectrum of ocean sports. However, one sport, stand-up paddleboarding (SUP), was really starting to bubble at the surface. From 2007 onward, I was personally doing a lot of stand-up surfing in Kauai where I was living. Then I went to the most respected Hawaiian watermen, guys like Archie Kalepa, Brian Keaulana and Mel Pu'u, and told them I was interested in creating a world tour for stand-up surfing, and I wanted hear what they thought about it. It was more about surfing at that point; not a lot of people were into distance racing. To kick off things with a bang, we held an exhibition at Teahupo'o in Tahiti. I thought it was important to change people’s perceptions of what the sport was about. Many people’s impression of stand-up at the time was of an old man in the lineup with a 12-foot plus board. We wanted to open people’s eyes to the high-performance edge. After the event in Tahiti, we launched a full-blown stand-up surfing tour in 2010 – The Stand-up World Tour. G What do you think it means to be a waterman? T It’s a really played-out word, but a true waterman is a person who has a lot of experience in the ocean and is comfortable there. They can read the ocean and have fun in the water, no matter what the conditions. Kai Lenny personifies the word waterman. His name actually is Kai

Waterman Lenny. His grandfather was named Waterman, and Kai means ocean. He has experience beyond his years. G Has the racing series gained momentum? T The stand-up surfing tour started with five events in four countries. The following year, it grew to six events. At the end of the season, we held an exhibition race to launch the racing series at Turtle Bay on the North Shore of Oahu, and in 2012 the Stand-up World Series was off and running. The tour has steadily gained momentum, and in the third full season (2014), we launched the women’s tour and crowned a men’s and women’s world champion for the first time. G What is the format? T Athletes compete in long distance (endurance) courses and short distance (sprint) courses. Some are faster in the sprint races; others on the long courses, but we wanted there to be one combined champion. The most well-rounded athlete is our world champion. G To what do you attribute the sport’s recent popularity? T Stand-up has become popular because it is such an accessible form of surfing. Whether you are paddling on flat water or catching waves, it’s got that “I’m surfing” feel to it. Racing is the easiest point of entry for mass participation and has the most growth potential. There isn’t much doubt stand-up paddling will surpass surfing in the next few years in terms of participation numbers. You can do it anywhere. We’ve done races on glacier-fed Lake

のもと、2009年ウォーターマンズ・リーグを結成した。当時カ

ンをやって、レースシリーズをスタートさせ、2012年にはスタン

ウアイに住んでいたんだが、個人的にSUPに入れ込んでい

ドアップワールドシリーズがはじまった。3年目の2014年には

て、2007年といえば、ちょうどSUPにかなり注目が集まりだし

ウィメンズのツアーもはじまって、男女ともにチャンピオンが

ロッパ、イギリスではチャンピオンになったり、世界のトップ

たころだった。

誕生したんだ。

10にもランクインしていた時期もあるんだ。海という最高の

 そんな中、アーチー・カレパ、ブライアン・ケアウラナ、メ

遊び場で、さまざまなスポーツを経験できるというのは最高

ル・プウといった、ハワイでもっともリスペクトされているウォー

G 競技方法は? T 選手は長距離と短距離で競い合う。短距離が得意な

ターマンたちに会うことになり、彼らにSUPのワールドツアー

選手もいれば長距離のほうが得意な選手もいるが、総合

をやりたいという話をした。当時、SUPでレースをしている人

的にオールラウンドなチャンピオンを決めたいと思ったんだ。

TRISTAN BOXFORD

ぼくはずっとウィンドのプロで、ヨー

だね。

G あなたの出身はサーフィンで有名なイギリスだそうです ね…? (笑) 。でもイギリスも島じゃないか?航海の伝 T そうなんだ

口はまだほとんどいなかったから、サーフが議題の中心に なっていた。

G 最近、とくにSUPが注目されている理由は何だと思いま すか?

統に彩られた、水にかこまれた大きな島さ。ただちょっと寒す

 印象的なスタートを切るために、ぼくらはまずタヒチの

T SUPはだれもがすぐに楽しめるのが最大の理由だと思

ぎて、たいていみじめな感じの場所だけどね。ぼくが今住ん

チョープーでエキシビションを開催することにした。SUPにた

う。水面をパドルするだけでも、波に乗っても、どちらも “サー

でいるハワイとはちょっと違うかな。ハワイの気候と波はいつ

いする印象を変えたかったんだ。ほとんどの人にとってSUPと

フィン” の感覚を味わうことができる。

も最高だけど、イギリスでは嵐が来なければ波は立たないか

いえば12フィート以上あるボードに乗るおじさんのスポーツと

 とくにレースは誰もが参加できるのでもっと成長する可能

らね。

いうイメージだったからね。SUPのポテンシャルを見せたかっ

性はじゅうぶんある。参加人数において、あと数年でSUPが

たんだ。そのタヒチのイベントの後、2010年にスタンドアップ・ G 大会のオーガナイズはいつごろから? T メディアやイベント運営にはいつも興味があったんだ。 ワールドツアーをスタートさせた。 ウィンドサーフィンの試合で会場やコンディションに満足い G ウォーターマンであるとはどういうことだと思いますか? かないことも多くて、いきづまりを感じていたころから、The T 使い古された言葉ではあるけど、ウォーターマンとは海で Ocean Gamesというプロジェクトをはじめた。2007年にはマウ の豊かな経験をもち、いかなる状況でも落ちついていられる

サーフィンを上回る可能性も高いだろう。氷河が浮かぶパタ

イでイベントを開催して、ショートボード、ロングボード、スタン

者のことを言うのではないかと思う。どんな状況でも海を読

ドアップ、ウィンドサーフィン、カイトサーフィンといったあらゆ

み、楽しむ。カイ・レニーなんかはウォーターマンという言葉

ゴニアのレイクグレーからフィジーのチャンネルレース、グッ ゲンハイム美術館の目の前、ハンブルグの中心でレースを 開催したこともあるけど、SUPはどこでもできるのも魅力のひ とつだ。

G サーフィンとのつながりはどれほど重要だと考えていま すか?

るオーシャンスポーツのアスリートが参加した。イベントは大

を体現している思うよ。彼の名前はじっさいカイ・ウォーター

T SUPのルーツがサーフィンにあるのは間違いないし、そこ

きな成功をおさめて、ESPN とX Gamesの姉妹品という形でや

マン・レニーだ。お爺さんもウォーターマンという名前で、カ

は忘れてはならないところだと思っている。水面をパドルする よりも、波に乗るのはより刺激的ではあるけど、やはり、SUP

らないかという話にまで発展した。X Gamesはサーフィンを外

イはハワイ語で海の意味でもある。彼の経験の豊かさは彼

したばかりだったんだが、完全にやめるつもりではなかった

の年齢をゆうに超えているよ。

の強みはだれもが気軽にやってみたいと思えるところだと思

みたいで。ただ、 アメリカでは景気がどんどん悪くなっていた。

う。運動能力や年齢、性別、場所を選ばない。SUPを楽し

G ウォーターマンズ・リーグができたのは? T Ocean Games以降数年はなにもなかったんだが、あらゆ

G レースシリーズは勢いに乗っていると思いますか? T スタンドアップサーフィンツアーは当初4か国、5つのイベ ント開催でスタートし、翌年には6ベントに増えた。シーズン

るオーシャンスポーツをカバーするイベントにしようという目標

終わりにノースショアのタートルベイでレースのエキシビショ

けだ。

むのにチョープーのバレルを抜ける必要もなければ、ハン ティントンビーチのショアブレークをサーフする必要もないわ

AUTUMN 2014

31


Gray in Chilean Patagonia, a channel race in Fiji and in the center of Hamburg in front of the Guggenheim Museum. It’s an unbelievable platform. G Why do you think the connection to surfing is so important? T For me, the sports roots will always be in surfing, and I think it’s important to maintain those roots. Surfing waves is naturally more inspirational than paddling on flat water. However, stand-up is something most people can aspire to. Anyone can jump on a board no matter their physical fitness, age, gender or location. You don’t have to be surfing the barrel in Teahupo'o or the shore break at Huntington Beach to have fun. Stand-up paddling can spin off in many different directions, but as long as surfing is at the heart of the sport, it will have a long and amazing life.

on the beach in Rome and up in the fjords in Finland. It culminates at the European Cup, which we held in Hamburg for a number of years, but now moved out to Fehmarn, about an hour and a half away in the Baltic Sea. Huntington Beach is a huge event, and Brazil is a big market. The Middle East is a bit of an out-of-the-box event, but it generates a lot of media interest. The surf event is in a man-made pool, and the race event happens right below the Formula One track in Yas Marina. It’s Abu Dhabi-style and a cool showcase.

The local support was great, and there were things we can build on and do better, but it was a great start. G Are you looking at other locations in the region? T We are exploring other places, but first and foremast we really want to concentrate on the Shonan Chigasaki Pro and make it a full-fledged World Championship Tour event with all the top athletes coming next year. That’s step one. Step two is developing other opportunities in Japan and elsewhere in Asia. G Mo Freitas (Hawaii) and Angela Jackson (Australia) were the men’s and women’s champions in Japan. How are they doing on the tour?

G How have you seen the Racing Series evolve? T At the beginning we went a bit more extreme with the events to create a buzz. Now we are more focused on developing key markets. The European Cup is huge. We have a series of qualifying events in places such as Oleron, France,

G How long has Asia been on your radar? T Asia’s been a target for a while; in particular Japan where people are so enthusiastic about sports. I saw it first-hand with windsurfing back in the ’80s and ’90s and how big the market and the events got. Fortunately, Yu Sumitomo and Yukio Yamaguchi came to me last year, keen to do something in the Shonan area. That’s how we ended up in Chigasaki. Yu and his father were board builders (surfboards and snowboards), and he and Yukio recently launched a standup board and clothing line called NoahNic. They brought Hosoi-san in who is really well connected in the community.

 SUPにはさまざまな方向へ発展する可能性があるが、サー

ルなイベントだ。

て成熟したイベントにしたいと思っている。来年はすべての

フィンというルーツがあれば、より息の長いスポーツになると

G アジアにはいつごろから注目していましたか? T アジア、とくにSUPに注目が高い日本は前から気になっ 80∼’ 90年代 ていた。ウィンドサーフィンをやっていたころ、’

トップアスリートを呼びたいね。まずはそこからはじめて、第2

Photos by KURE

T Angie was leading the World Series rankings since the first of the year but slipped into second after missing an event in Germany, so she’ll be looking to get back on top in Huntington Beach. Mo is fifth or sixth in the world. Unfortunately there was another big event that some of the top pros had already committed to before we were able to release the Japan dates. It was a bummer, because guys such as Kai Lenny, Zane Schwietzer and Conner Baxter have committed to our event above anything else, but the other event was in Hawaii, and they couldn’t back out.

思っている。

G レースシリーズはどのような進化をとげていますか? T スタート当初、注目を集めるためにエクストリームな要素

段階として日本やほかのアジアのエリアでなにかできればと 思っているよ。

にかけて、日本での市場やイベントの規模を見ていたのも

G 日本のイベントで優勝したのはハワイのモー・フレイタ

を求めていたところもあったが、いまは中心となる市場を開

大きいね。そしてありがたいことに、昨年スミトモユウとヤマ

スとオーストラリアのアンジェラ・ジャクソンでしたが、彼ら

拓することに集中しているんだ。

グチユキオが湘南でイベントを開催したいとコンタクトしてき

のツアーでの成績は?

 ヨーロピアンカップは大規模なシリーズになっている。フ

てくれて、茅ヶ崎でのイベント開催にいたったわけなんだ。

ランスのオレロン、ローマのビーチ、フィンランドのフィヨルド

 ユウと彼の父はサーフボードとスノーボードのメーカーで、

T アンジーはツアーをはじめた当初からランキングをリードし ていたんだけど、 ドイツのイベントを欠場して今は2位。ハン

などで予選が開催され、ヨーロピアンカップをめざす。ずっと

ユキオはSUPのブランド、ノアニックを立ちあげたばかりだっ

ティントンビーチのイベントでふたたびトップに戻ろうとしてい

ハンブルグで開催していたが、今はバルト海から1時間半ほ

た。このコミュニティのキーマンである細井さんも参加してく

ると思うよ。モーは世界ランク5位、6位あたりの選手だ。

どのファーマーンという場所で開催している。

れたおかげで、地元のサポートを得ることができた。まだま

 日本のイベントの日程を公表する前に、すでにほかのイベ

 ハンティントンビーチも大きなイベントだし、ブラジルの市

だ改善点はあるけれど、最高のスタートを切ることができた

ントにコミットしていたプロも多くて、 カイ・レニーやゼーン・シュ

場も大きい。中東の大会はかなり独創的大会なので、 メディ

と思う。

ヴァイツアー、コナー・バクスターはハワイのイベントがあっ

アの注目度も高い。サーフイベントは人口のプールでおこな

たから来日することができなかったのは残念だった。それでも

われ、レースイベントはヤスマリーナにあるフォーミュラワンの

G 湘南でほかに注目しているロケーションはありますか? T もちろんほかの場所に可能性がないわけではないが、と

インターナショナルに活躍するプロを連れてくることができた

コースのすぐ下でおこなわれるんだ。アブダビスタイルのクー

にかく今は湘南茅ヶ崎プロをワールドツアーのイベントとし

のはよかったし、日本の選手も来年ステップアップするには

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AUTUMN 2014

33


However, it worked out well, bringing over a few international pros so the Japanese athletes can see what they have to do to step up to that level next year. It should be really interesting. G What specific skills are important for racing? T It’s interesting, when we started it looked like the really buff guys were going to be best, but that’s completely been thrown out the window. The lighter guys have been really fast on the short and long courses. Conner Baxter, leading the world standings, is light and he has leverage; it’s an ideal combination. For the sprint racing, special training includes high revolution paddling. The long course users a different skill set. Stand-up athletes come from a lot of different sports, but it seems the best paddlers come from a surfing background. They have a better feel for how to move their weight around on the board. You can sit on a rowing machine and hammer away at the gym, but if you don’t learn the intricacies of paddling on water, you are at a disadvantage. Guys such as Kai and Conner have an innate ability to read the water no matter what the condition, and I’ve

なにをすればいいのかが見えたのではないかと思う。

seen them on all types of bodies of water where they just navigate well. G Are most athletes on the tour focusing just on SUP or other ocean sports as well? T It’s starting to get harder for athletes to be competitive in other sports because stand-up is getting so competitive. The one exception would be Kai Lenny, who is somewhat of a freak of nature. But what we have found is the guys who are dong really well are coming from a multi-sport background. Stand-up combines skill sets from multiple ocean sports, which is why you see a lot of windsurfers and surfers excelling. They are used to using leverage, board control at speed and riding bumps and waves when they aren’t breaking, riding open ocean waves…all these things. They are more prepared to adapt. G Who is doing well on both the stand-up tours? T Predominantly the Hawaii guys. There are a few European guys who are good, but not great surfers, but in Hawaii we have guys such as Mo, Kai and Zane who have the potential to win a title in either. G How has the women’s tour been going? T One of the most exciting things about stand-up is

G ツアー参加中のアスリートはSUPだけにフォーカスしている

seeing the growth with women. They are enjoying it just as much as men. The U.S. (California and Hawaii), Australia, Europe are our biggest growth markets, but Brazil, especially in surfing, has been huge. The world champion last year was Brazilian, and two out of the top three women on the surfing tour are from Brazil. G Were there any Japanese athletes who stood out in Chigasaki? T Yeah, definitely. Kenny Kaneko has a lot of potential, and we’ve seen Tomo and Masa a lot on the world tour. They are good athletes, and they need to step it up to get to the top, but they have potential. G What can we look forward to next year? T It looks like a Japan event will be held the last weekend in August. It will be one of the six major stops on the World Series of stand-up paddling with all the top athletes there. We are extremely excited to come back. The warm welcome and hospitality we got in Japan was insane. I think that’s something all the international athletes came away with and why they are excited to be back next year. ✤

G ウィメンズのツアーはどうですか。 T スタンドアップでいまいちばん熱いのは女性なんだ。市

G レースで必要なスキルとは? T はじめたころは身体の大きい選手が勝つだろうとだれも

のか、ほかのスポーツをやっている選手も多いんでしょうか。

T スタンドアップの競争がかなり激しくなっているなか、ほ

場としてはアメリカ (カリフォルニアとハワイ) 、 オーストラリア、

が思っていたけど、まったくちがった。身体の軽い選手は短

かのスポーツでおなじように競いあうのはなかなかむずかしい

ヨーロッパがもっとも成長しているが、ブラジルはとくにサー

距離も長距離も速い。現在ランキング1位のコナー・バクス

かもしれない。カイ・レニーはちょっと変わりダネだが。ただ、

フィン市場が熱い。去年のワールドチャンプはブラジリアン

ターは軽さと勢いという理想の組み合わせをもっている。

上位の選手の多くは、ほかのスポーツのバックグラウンドを

 短距離レースでは高回転パドルのトレーニングをするが、 もっている。スタンドアップはオーシャンスポーツで必要とさ

で、サーフィンツアーのトップスリーのうちふたりがブラジリア ンだった。

長距離ではまたちがうスキルが必要になる。スタンドアップ

れるさまざまなスキルが役立つので、ウィンドサーファーや

のアスリートには違う分野のスポーツ出身者も多いが、サー

サーファーのほうがやはり有利かもしれない。スピードが出

G 日本人で注目している選手は? T ケニー金子は大きな可能性をもっているね。トモとマサ

フィンをバックグラウンドにもっている選手のパドルは速いよ

た状態でのボードコントロール、海面のでこぼこ、ブレークし

もワールドツアーでよくやっている。トップへの道のりはまだ

うに思う。ボードの上での体重移動の感覚が優れていると

ていない波にも外洋の波にも、あらゆる状況に慣れている

あるが、可能性はじゅうぶんにある。

いうか。ジムのローイングマシーンでどれだけトレーニングして

わけで、その分SUPへの適応能力も高いように思う。

G 来年はどんな年になりそうですか。 T 日本でのイベントは8月終わりになりそうだ。ワールドシ リーズの主要6イベントのひとつとして世界中の選手が来る

も、水上でのパドルはずっと複雑なわけで、それをわかって いなければ不利だろう。 

G サーフ、レース両方のツアーで強いのは? T やはりハワイ出身の選手は強い。ヨーロッパの選手に

 カイやコナーにはどんなコンディションでも水を読む天性

も強い選手はいるが、サーフィンはハワイの選手には劣るわ

予定で、とても楽しみしているよ。日本のおもてなしは格別

の能力がある。どんな状況でもすばらしいパドルをするふた

けで、ハワイ出身のモー、カイ、ゼーンなどはどちらのツアー

だった。選手全員がそれを感じて帰ったはずだし、だからこ

りだ。

にも勝つ可能性がある。

そまた来年も来たいとだれもが言っている。✤

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Tim Rock takes us on the second leg of his island-hopping adventure across Micronesia to explore the Big Island, the beautiful Northern Marianas and the world-famous dive destinations of Yap and Palau. Tim Rock のミクロネシア諸島アドベンチャーパート 2 。

今回はビッグアイランド、北マリアナ諸島と 世界有数のダイビングスポット、ヤップとパラオを紹介しよう。

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T R AV E L E R


ISLAND HOPPING IN

MICRONESIA

Part Two: Guam, CNMI, Yap and Palau ミクロネシア アイランドホッピング

I

n the first part of our series we looked at eastern and central Micronesia with the Republic of the Marshall Islands and the Federated States of Micronesia states Kosrae, Pohnpei and Chuuk (Truk Lagoon). For the most part these isles are quiet and not overly developed. The islands to the west include Guam, Commonwealth of the Northern Mariana Islands (specifically Saipan & Rota), the FSM’s Yap State and Palau. While Yap maintains a reputation of being the most traditional island in Micronesia with its stone money and traditional sailing canoes, the other islands are very popular tourism destinations that have embraced visitors in a big way. Guam gets well over a million visitors annually, and Palau is a world-class diving destination. Daily flights, an array of hotel choices and variety in Asian and international cuisine make these destinations popular and trendy.

ート1ではマーシャル諸島とミクロネシア連 邦のコスラエ、ポンペイ、チュークなどミクロ ネシアの東部と中心部をご紹介したが、ま だ開発の手がおよんでいない場所がほとん

どだった。 西側にはグアム、北マリアナ諸島 (サイパンとロタ) 、ミク ロネシア連邦のヤップとパラオがある。ヤップは石の貨幣や 伝統的なカヌーとともに、ミクロネシアでもっとも昔ながらの 生活を見ることができる場所だが、ほかの島は観光地として 多くの観光客をあつめている。 グアムを訪れる観光客はゆうに年間100万人を超えるし、 パラオはワールドクラスのダイビングスポットを誇る。飛行機 も毎日フライトがあり、 ホテルの選択肢も広い。アジアンフー ドなど国際色豊かな食もこのエリアが人気の理由だ。 AUTUMN 2014

37


MICRONESIA IS  LAND HOPPING

beach or sun with the masses at Tumon Bay. Visit Alupang Island beach and Jetski out its channel from the shores of the Santa Fe Hotel or just watch the sunset and have a drink at the hotel’s west facing bar and restaurant. While by far the most populated island in Micronesia, Guam still has a lot of natural beauty and lots of history. Guam is United Airlines’ hub for the region.

NORTHERN MARIANA ISLANDS

GUAM Guam is a U.S. territory and the most populous island in Micronesia. It hosts more than 1.3 million Asian sun worshippers a year, mostly from Japan, and they take advantage of many water sports, shopping, hiking, history tours, cultural dances and diverse fine diving. Residents and visitors alike regularly enjoy the reefs in Guam. The Apra Harbor featured WWII shipwrecks and nice hard coral reefs. Deep drop-offs outside and a Blue Hole are punctuated by normally gin-clear water. Dolphin watching is a favorite Guam activity as pods of dolphins break into small family units and rest in the western bays by day. Boats visit the bays, and the dolphins will swim with the bow waves and often jump and spin, thus earning their name as spinner dolphins. One can also go into the sea without getting wet by

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T R AV E L E R

visiting the Fish Eye Marine Park in Piti Village’s Tepungan Bay. This family attraction is at the end of a long pier that goes over the water to a multi-windowed observatory that sits 30 feet below the sea. Tropical fish cavort by the windows, and the beautiful coral reef can be seen in the background. Across the street, the visitor center offers lunches, a dinner show complete with Polynesian dancers and a special gift with lots of Micronesian souvenirs. Micronesia's entry into capitalism is Tumon Bay, the Waikiki of the west. A fancy hotel row lining a shallow turquoise bay that is a marine preserve has the tinkling glasses of nightlife, good sushi bars and the world's largest walk-through aquarium. This bay provides some nice snorkeling in the marine park. Because Guam gets so many visitors, there is lots to do from sky diving to ocean diving. Visit the secluded northern

The islands in the northwest Pacific called the "Caribbean of Japan" are known as the Mariana Islands. For the most part, they are rugged and largely unpopulated, running 560 miles from Guam to the northernmost Farallon De Pajaros. As Guam is considered an independent U.S. territory, the main CNMI isles are the ones in the populated south with Rota, Saipan and Tinian. The group is compact, consisting of a single chain. The islands have high volcanic cones. Some are geographically active with smoldering volcanoes in the north. Known for their clear waters, reefs, caves and war wrecks, Saipan, Rota and Tinian are a favorite of Asian divers and snorkelers. The climate in the CNMI, or Commonwealth of the Northern Mariana Islands, has been described as one of the most favorable in the world. Hot, sunny days and cool nights are the norm. In the south, these geographically quiet islands are alive with marine life and the clearest waters found anywhere. The two most popular islands are Saipan and Rota, where old war wrecks, pelagic congregations and warm waters beckon scuba divers. The islands themselves offer a rugged beauty with uplifted spines and plateaus creating a center spine with


sports

leisure One can also go into the sea wit hout getting wet by visiting the Fish Eye Marine Park in Piti Village’s Tepungan Bay.

ピティ湾にあるフィッシュアイマリンパ ークに行けば、 水に浸からず海底探索もできる。

グアム  

サンタフェホテルの海岸から出るジェットスキーでチャンネ

 アメリカ領グアムはミクロネシアでもっとも人気の島だ。

ランでお酒を楽しみながらのサンセットもおすすめ。

activities

ルをツーリングしたり、ホテル内、西に面したバーやレスト 日本を中心にアジアから年間130万人の太陽崇拝者が訪 れ、ウォータースポーツ、ショッピング、ハイキング、歴史ツ アー、伝統的なダンスやバラエティ豊かなダイビングを楽し

北マリアナ諸島  

んでいる。ここのリーフはもちろんローカルの人たちにも人

太平洋北西部、マリアナ諸島は日本のカリブと呼ばれ

気だ。ハードコーラルと第二次世界大戦の難破船が沈む

ている。ただし、グアムからファラリョン・デ・パハロス島へ

アプラ港は、深いドロップオフ、そしてジンのように透明度

560マイルに渡って点在する島々は、そのほとんどがひじょ

抜群の水が自慢のブルーホールで有名だ。

うに険しく人は住んでいない。グアムはアメリカの独立領

グアムでのおすすめはイルカウォッチング。ファミリーご

とされており、北マリアナ諸島はロタ、サイパン、テニアン

とに分かれたイルカの群れが、昼間西側の湾に休息に

など人の住む島のことを指す。一列に連なる小さな島々に

やってくるのをボートで見学するのだが、ボートがつくる波

は、高い火山円 錐丘があり、北部には今もくすぶる活火

で遊んだり、ジャンプしながらクルクル回ったりするので、

山もある。水の透明度の高さと最高のリーフに水中洞窟、

彼らはスピナードルフィンと呼ばれている。

戦争の名残などで有名なサイパン、ロタ、テニアンはアジ

ピティ湾にあるフィッシュアイマリンパークに行けば、水

アのダイビングファンに人気のエリアだ。また、世界でもっ

に浸からず海底探索もできる。海上に突き出た桟橋を行く

とも気候のよい場所としても知られるこのエリア、昼はい

と海底 30フィートの場所に海中展望塔があり、美しいサン

つも晴れて暑く、夜は涼しい。

ゴ礁を背景に熱帯魚が戯れる様子を窓から見学できる。 道の反対側にある観光センターではランチやポリネシアン

南部の地理的に人里離れた島々には、世界一の透明 度をほこる海と海洋生物が息づいている。もっとも有名な

ダンサーによるディナーショーも楽しめ、ミクロネシア土産

のはサイパンとロタで、戦争の難破船や遠洋の海洋生物、

も充実している。

そして海水の暖かさがダイバーたちをひきつけてやまない。

ミクロネシアにおける資本主義の入り口はタモン湾、西

隆起した尾根や高原が険しくも美しいこの島々の尾根

のワイキキだ。海洋保護区でもある浅いターコイズブルー

の中心には深いジャングルが生い茂る。ロタの高みからは

の湾にそってホテルがたち並び、ナイトライフはもちろん、

滝がながれ落ち、サイパンは洞窟だらけだ。そしてテニア

スシバーや歩いて抜けることができる世界最大の水族館

ンには深い海へとつづく圧倒的な崖。観光客はゴルフや

などが人気だ。マリンパークではシュノーケルを楽しむこと

マウンテンバイク、第二次世界大戦の戦跡、そしてゆたか

もできる。

な植物園などを目的にやってくる。ビーチでは数多くのア

スカイダイビングから海のダイビングまでグアムではアク ティビティ満載で、観光客が多いのもうなずける。北側に

discover the

クティビティがあり、水は暖かいのでだれもが海を楽しむこ

possibilities

www.picresorts.com

とができる。

はひと気のすくないビーチもあるし、おおぜいの観光客と

北マリアナ諸島の首都サイパンへは、グアムからユナイ

タモン湾で日焼けを楽しむこともできる。アルパンビーチで

テッド航空のターボプロップジェットでほんの45 分で行くこ

For reservations, contact us at: +1 (670) 234-2042 reservations@picsaipan.com AUTUMN 2014

39


thick jungles. Cascading waterfalls flow from some of Rota’s heights. Saipan is pocked with caves. Tinian has stunning cliffs that fall to the deep blue sea. People come here to play golf, mountain bike and hike and explore World War II battle sites. Also, there are some lush botanical gardens here. Beach activities are myriad, and the water is warm, so everyone can enjoy the sea. The island of Saipan is the capital of the Commonwealth of the Northern Mariana Islands (CNMI) and is a quick 45-minute hop by United turbo-prop jet from Guam. The PIC hotel on the west coast of Saipan has a large water park, punctuated by a replica of an ancient Manila galleon, a tribute to a gold ship that sank on the nearby coast. But whether it be treasure or bountiful marine life, Saipan is a place that holds many secrets beneath its sea. At night, get away from the city light and look to the sky. The heavens are as clear as the water. Stargazers are in for a treat. The Southern Cross and Orion punch through the blackness, and the Milky Way is absolutely incredible, flowing across the universe in a shimmering array of creation.

YAP After Truk, the United Island Hopper finishes in Guam, but it is easy to continue on the next gem in the FSM crown, Yap State. It is but an hour and 15 minutes from Guam by air, but is truly the proverbial world away in terms of culture and

40

T R AV E L E R

many other factors that combine to make this one of the world’s unique destinations. Known for having banks of huge stone discs, this stone money island is one of the most traditional in Micronesia. Village dances can still be seen and many outer islanders wear colorful loincloths, called thu’us. Women wear woven skirts made from handlooms, and a few older main island Yapese women still wear grass skirts in the villages. A new stone path leading to a great hiking trail has been established, and the shores hold traditionally made men’s meeting houses with high thatched and pitched roofs. Most everyone in Yap chews betel nut which turns one’s saliva red and gives most Yapese a crimson smile. Yap is famous for its manta rays whose mating season is roughly December through April, and the mantas can put on a real show around full moon. Yap is surrounded by a huge inner lagoon and barrier reef. To get to Miil channel, where the mantas like to mate, the dive boat travels through the inner mangroves, under a bridge and past more mangroves that open to the west coast at the end. Very much a Jungle Queen experience. A traditional dance in Yap is a pleasure to watch. Dancers dress in colorful skirts and cover their bodies in coconut oil and turmeric. The dances usually tell of some historic event, and one popular dance is about how the stone money was quarried in Palau and then brought to Yap on rafts pulled by open ocean canoes. The peril involved in transporting the stone money greatly

adds to its value. Dancers also do a rousing stick dance and really whack each other’s bamboo sticks. Mantas, strange money and exotic dances. Yap offers a lot that easily fills a week.

PALAU The Palau islands are without a doubt among the prettiest places on earth. Spanning more than 100 miles from one tip of the archipelago to the other, this region features an amazingly beautiful atoll, a high island second only to Guam in Micronesia landmass, 700 Rock Islands and two southern limestone islands. The south holds the famous drop-offs and has been widely dived. There is a world-class dive site called Blue Corner, considered one of the world’s best boat dives. The south also has German Channel, a favorite spot to watch manta rays feed and big schools of jacks and snapper congregate. Plus, there’s the Rock Islands, one of the most beautiful natural formations in the world. Babeldaob Island holds what many feel are the unexplored attractions in Palau, on land and along the outer reefs. With the new 53 miles of “Compact Road,” it now vies for attention from the south. One can drive all the way up to Ollei to some famous ancient monoliths. The Badrulchau Stone Monoliths sit way up north on the grassy flats along the eastern coastline of Ngarchelong.


MICRONESIA IS  LAND HOPPING

red the unexplo re a l e fe y n a hat m reefs. land holds w ng the outer lo a d n a Babeldaob Is d n Palau, on la 地だと attractions in だまだ未開の

ーフでもま ブ島は陸でもリ オ る場所だ。 ダ ル ベ バ   感じさせてくれ

とができる。サイパン西にあるPICホテルには大きなウォー ターパークがあり、近海に沈んだ黄金の古代船マニラ・ガ レオンのレプリカが目印だ。サイパンの海には宝探しと豊 かな海洋生物のほかにも、多くの秘密がかくされている。 夜には街を出て、空を見上げてみよう。海とおなじくら い澄んだ空には星がいっぱいだ。南十字星とオリオン座 る諸島で、目をみはる美しさの環礁やグアムにつぐ高さを

が暗い夜空に輝き、宇宙を横切る光り輝く天の川のうつく

月、満月にはマンタのショーを見ることができるだろう。ヤッ

しさは筆舌につくしがたい。

プは巨大なインナーラグーンとバリアリーフに囲まれてお

誇る島、700のロックアイランド、そして南には石灰石の島

り、マンタの繁殖場所でもあるミルチャンネルへは、ボート

もある。

ヤップ  ユナイテッドのアイランドホッパーはトラック諸島の次の

でマングローブや橋の下を通り、さらに西海岸へとつづく

南には有名なドロップオフがあり、ダイバーに人気だ。

マングローブを抜けていく。まさにジャングルの女王のよう

ブルーコーナーと呼ばれるスポットは世界的に有名で、 ボー

である。

トダイブでは世界有数の場所だといえる。南にはジャーマ

グアムが最終目的地だが、ミクロネシア諸島のもうひとつ

ヤップ伝統のダンスもおすすめ。カラフルなスカートをは

の宝、ヤップ州へのアクセスも難しくはない。グアムから

き、体にココナッツオイルとターメリックを塗る。歴史的な

ンチャンネルがあり、マンタが食事する様子を観察したり、 シマアジやフエダイの群れに出会えるだろう。世界一美し

飛行機で約1時間15分、文化やさまざまな要素がこの島を

出来事を表現したダンスが多く、たとえば、パラオからどの

いフォーメーションといわれるロックアイランドも忘れてはい

とくに独特な場所にしている。

ように石貨が切り出されたか、そしてそれをいかだに乗せ、

けない。

巨大な石貨で知られるこの島は、ミクロネシアでもっと

カヌーでヤップまで牽引してきた様子などを表現する。石

バベルダオブ島は陸でもリーフでもまだまだ未開の地だ

も伝統的な場所である。村の踊りは現在も見ることができ

貨を運ぶ危険もまた石貨の価値を上げる要素となってい

と感じさせてくれる場所だ。新しくできた53マイルのコンパ

るし、アウターアイランド出身者はカラフルなウロース (thu ’ た。また、お互いの竹の棒を叩きあうスティックダンスもお

us) と呼ばれる腰巻きをつけている。女性は手織りのスカー トをはいているが、年配の女性のなかには腰 蓑をつけて いる人もいる。気持ちのよいハイキングトレイルへとつづ

もしろい。 マンタに不思議なお金にエキゾチックなダンス。ヤップ は一週間の滞在をじゅうぶんに楽しませてくれるだろう。

パラオ

ヤップはマンタで有名で、繁殖期はだいたい12月から4

アルコロン州の東海岸にある緑豊かな平地にはバドルル アウ遺跡がある。37の一枚岩があるが、その起源は不明 バドルルアウ中心部へもどり、アルモノグイ村からボート かカヤックで昔のままの姿が美しいNgermeskang( 読み方

ヤップの人々はだれもがビートルナッツを噛んでおり、唾液 が赤くなるのでヤップ人の微笑みは深紅色になる。

オレイ村まで行けば有名な古代の一枚岩がある。北部、

である。

く石畳が新たに造られ、海岸には男性の集会用につくら れた藁ぶき屋根に高床式の伝統的な家がならんでいる。

クトロードのおかげで南からの注目を集めるようになった。

パラオ諸島が地上でもっとも美しい場所のひとつである

不明)川を下ってみるのもおすすめだ。マングローブの林

ことはまちがいない。端から端まで100マイル以上に広が

から奥地にある深いジャングルまで、自然を愛する者とアド

AUTUMN 2014

41


MICRONESIA IS  LAND HOPPING

There are 37 ancient stone monoliths here; origin unknown. Heading back to central Babeldaob, take a boat or kayak from Ngeremlengui Village. The Ngermeskang River is of unspoiled beauty. Ranging in habitat from a mangrove forest at its mouth to a dense jungle inland, this river is wonderful for nature lovers and adventure seekers alike. The banks have the remnants of the pre-WWII Japanese pineapple cannery, and wild pineapples still grow there. This is where kayakers can sneak up on saltwater crocodiles. Ngardmau Falls is one of the central area’s great attractions. There’s an overlook where the falls are clearly visible down in the jungle. A steep trail heads toward the falls. Along the way a feeder river flows across a broad rocky area where you can jump in and cool off at smaller falls and deep pools. Tiny fish and freshwater shrimp scurry through here. At the end, huge falls cascade from the broad precipice above for a cooling natural massage. At the Metuker ra Bisech, a short climb into the rock islands of Babeldaob shows where Yapese came to quarry their stone money. Nearby the war past comes into play again, as snorkelers can see the final resting sites of JakeAichi floatplanes. In the evening, the last call of native birds echoes down the valleys. Clouds hang low over the jungle, and they glow with the warm gold of the sunset. We sat high on a hill and listened to the breeze blow over the northern hills. “Palau is full of surprises,” says explorer Francis Toribiong. The north will surely produce more of them as the years go by. ✤

ベンチャー好きにはたまらない場所だ。岸には第二次世 界大戦前にあった日本のパイナップル缶詰工場の跡があ る。野生のパイナップルもいっぱいだ。カヤックでは海水 ワニに出会えるかもしれない。 ガラスマオの滝は中心部のメインアトラクションだ。ジャ ングルの中にある滝をはっきり見ることができる見晴らし台

PRACTICALITIES 基本情報

もある。滝へむかう急な勾配のトレイルもあり、ごつごつし た岩の中を流れる支流にある小さめの滝や、小魚や淡水 エビが泳ぎまわる深いプールで暑さをしのぐのもよい。そし て最後にあらわれる大きな絶壁から流れ落ちる滝は、まる で自然がくれる涼しげなマッサージのようである。 バベルダオブ島のロックアイランドへ上るMetuker ra

Bisech( 読み方不明)ではヤップ人が石貨を切り出した場 所を見学できる。また近隣には戦争の名残、アイチ製ゼ ロ式水上飛行機の残骸が眠っており、こちらはシュノーケ ルで見ることができる。 夕方になると野生の鳥たちの声が谷にひびきわたる。 ジャ ングルの上にかかった低い雲が夕陽に照らしだされて金色 にかがやく。北の丘に吹く風の音を聞きながらパラオの探 検家フランシス・トリビオンはこういった 「パラオは驚きでいっ ぱいだ」。これからもその驚きは増えつづけることだろう。✤

GETTING THERE Guam: There are numerous direct United Airlines flights from many Japanese cities. The major hubs are Narita and Osaka. Commonwealth of the Northern Marianas: The CNMI is serviced by United Airlines flights originating from Guam daily to Rota, Saipan and Tinian. Yap: Yap is serviced twice weekly by United Airlines out of Guam on Tuesday and Saturday evenings. Palau: Daily flights from Guam to Palau are offered by United Airlines. 行き方: グアム:成田や大阪など全国からユナイテッドの 直行便がある。 北マリアナ諸島:ロタ、サイパン、テニアンへはグ アムからユナイテッド便が就航。 ヤップ:グアムより、週2回、火曜日と土曜の夕方 にユナイテッド便が就航。 グアムよりユナイテッド便が毎日就航。

WEB CONNECTION Guam: www.visitguam.com Commonwealth of the Northern Marianas: www.mymarianas.com Yap: www.visityap.com Palau: www.visit-palau.com f the island hoppers. Web: www.united.com

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JAPAN TRAVELER

Hidden Gems Below The Water:

THE AMAZING

WORLD OF

AMAMI By Bonnie Waycott

The Ryukyus encompass 55 islands and islets that include the well-known Okinawa Islands, the Sakishima Islands to the south and the Amami Islands to the north. The Amami island chain is not often mentioned as a popular dive destination, and ever since I began diving, I'd been curious about these limestone islands. When I finally visited, I quickly realized it had been worth the long wait. The Amami Islands consist of Amami Oshima, Tokunoshima, Okinoerabu and Yoronto. They're an extension of Kyushu's Kagoshima Prefecture and are known for a humid subtropical climate, pronounced language and dialect, local folk songs called shimauta and the Amami rabbit endemic to Amami Oshima and Tokunoshima. Okinoerabu, known as the Island of Flowers and Limestone Caves, is home to more than 300 caves visitors can explore. Down in Yoronto, you can wander through the many sugar cane farms and discover some rare star-shaped sand, and this is all before you even enter the water.

AUTUMN 2014

43


AMAMI OSHIMA: INTO THE BLUE The sea surrounding the Amami islands boasts an exceptional clarity, and the coral reefs are swarming with tropical fish. As I prepared to scuba dive off Amami Oshima, I could see how the bright turquoise water would tempt any marine sports enthusiast. The sites here are accessible by beach and boat, with hordes of fish swimming through the sunlight in the shallows. If you have a keen eye for macro life, you can find nudibranch of all colors while the topography of the area gives you caves, caverns and swim-throughs to explore. One fish to watch for here is the endearing Gilbert's cardinal fish. Four-to-five cm. long and often bright, it appears in large aggregations among the coral in the sheltered lagoons and bays. As you begin diving off Amami Oshima, everything seems barren at first with very little sign of life. But soon white sand begins to spread out before you, revealing a riot of activity along the smallto-medium-sized rocks as you realize why your guide has brought you here. If you keep swimming, you can spend some time getting close to the thousands of cardinal fish as well as parrotfish, shrimp, starfish and other creatures hidden under ledges and gathering over the rocks. Lie across the sand and get close-up shots of a nudibranch or hover over some branch coral and get a decent look at what goes on within. This is paradise for the underwater photographer. It is a smorgasbord of rich, vibrant colors as reef fish flutter in and out of the coral, and sponge growth with coral formations creating a spectacular backdrop for some stunning shots.

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T R AV E L E R

TOKUNOSHIMA: SINGING WHALES AND FRIENDLY TURTLES At first glance, Tokunoshima doesn't seem particularly inviting. Look closely however, and the natural underwater beauty really stands out: a prime example of Japan's volcanic geology with huge flat rocks and coral. Turtles are often spotted during dives and, in February, whales come close to the island, filling the ocean with their cries. Give this quaint little place a chance because sometimes the unexpected places really are the best. Ryuji Suzuki who runs Kamui, Tokunoshima's main dive school, makes sure your dives are not just beautiful but also entertaining. One of the sites to which he enjoys taking customers is Shiotobiya where you can meet the jawfish, a comical and entertaining little thing with a large head, mouth and eyes. It peers out from its burrow, watching you curiously and even spitting sand at you if so inclined. Shiotobiya is also home to Yamachan, Tokunoshima's famous green sea turtle that has been around for more than 10 years. Tame and relaxed, he is known for his unusual mountain-like shell and is normally found swimming or grazing off the rocks at around 10-to-15 meters. You’ll be tempted to hang out with him and take photos for the remainder of your dives. One of the most popular but challenging sites is Tonbara Iwa, three small offshore rock islands with large tuna, trevally and strong, unpredictable currents. Those with a fear of heights may want to take care, because you crawl slowly over the rocks at around 30 meters before perching over the edge and peering into the dark blue depths. It's a thrilling moment, and the cry of the whales makes this already tense dive just even more eerie. In the shallower depths, at around 20 meters, you can relax and look out for white tip reef sharks, large clown triggerfish, sea snakes, red fin fusiliers and starfish.

DIVING HIGHLIGHTS

DIVING HIGHLIGHTS

Kurasaki Beach: An easy beach entry and a shallow relaxing dive for beginners or those who want to take it easy. Yamamoto Special: Excellent photo opportunities await here.

Shiotobiya: Home to a fun-loving turtle and other colorful forms of macro life. Tonbara Iwa: For those who like pelagics and currents.


YORONTO: PEARL OF THE EAST CHINA SEA The last stop in Amami remains a bit of a mystery. Few have heard of Yoronto, and I often wish it could remain a secret to help preserve its natural beauty and charm. The vibrant ocean, surrounding reefs and pleasant temperatures hovering over 20° C have contributed to its moniker of the Pearl of the East China Sea. Yoronto has something for every diver: shallow sandy areas, drop offs, arches, crevasses and narrow passageways. Several dives here unlock the secrets contained in the numerous ledges, overhangs and tunnels that characterize this island. The range of crevasses is well worth visiting. Descending to eight meters, you can wind your way past and around some immense rock formations. It feels like a bizarre obstacle course where the rocks loom above from the white sandlike monoliths, making for a very atmospheric dive. Once you reach about 15 meters, you can crawl along the sand with a light and shine it into the dark spaces and openings along the bottom. Here you'll find lobster, prawns, lionfish and a range of nudibranch including an impressive yellow glossodoris cruenta, its frilly mantle swaying from side to side. For a bit of pelagic magic, white tuna and bluefin trevally are known to drift by, while turtles and squid can be seen playing over the surface. On the rocks is a never-ending forest of Christmas tree worms of every color that instantly retreat as you approach, only to slowly open again after you've passed by. Lastly, don't miss the famous sand on Yurigahama Beach, where tiny pieces of coral wash up as star-shaped wonders. Some say the sand is dead plankton dried into the shape of a star but whatever it may be, it is a sight to see whether you are relaxing on the beach or delving into your inner child.

DIVING HIGHLIGHTS Denpoguchi: Crawl along the white sand as you shine your light - you never know what you might find here.

PRACTICALITIES GETTING THERE: The Amami Island C hain is most easily accessible by air. There are a number of JAL flights via Kagoshima that leave Tokyo between 8 and 9 a.m., landing around lunchtime or early afternoon. CLIMATE: Mild and sometimes rainy winters and hot summers. C with the highest average Average air temperature is around 21° around 27°C in summer. WATER TEMPERATURE: Varies between 19°- 22° C in the winter to C in the summer. A 5-mm. wetsuit is best during the summer, 27°- 30°

however a 7-mm. or something even warmer would work well in winter. ACCOMMODATION: Varies greatly from modest pensions and traditional Japanese inns (minshuku) to western-style business hotels and resorts that are a little bit more expensive. GETTING AROUND: Hiring a car or scooter is the best option, as

buses are very limited on all three islands. Hotels and airports can help with the arrangements. AUTUMN 2014

45


Brand BEYOND THE

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C From

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46

T R AV E L E R

00 年

1 スの フ ロ 、ホグ へ 世界 から 屋 小 な山 小さ ss


AUTUMN 2014

47


IN THE YEAR 1914, A LONE MAN IN A CABIN IN THE WOODS—LITERALLY, A TINY SHACK IN THE DALARNA BACKCOUNTRY—SEWED UP A BUNCH OF BACKPACKS FROM THE FINEST MATERIALS HE COULD FIND, PUT THEM ON HIS BICYCLE AND HEADED OUT TO TRY TO SELL THEM TO THE LOCAL PEOPLE. TODAY HIS BACKPACKS AND HIGH-PERFORMANCE JACKETS ARE WORN IN MOUNTAINS AND CITIES AROUND THE WORLD, AND HIS COMPANY LOOKS TO HIS ROOTS AS IT CELEBRATES A CENTENNIAL MILESTONE. ある男がダーラナの山奥にある小さな山小屋で、選び抜かれた素材を使いバックバック を縫いあげた。彼はそれを自転車に積み行商に出かける。現在、彼がつくったバック パックやハイパフォーマンスのジャケットは世界中の山や町で使われるようになった。 彼の会社は100周年を祝して、その足跡を辿ることになった。

W

hen Viktor Haglöfs succeeded in his stitching and sales efforts, he also drew from the Swedish tradition of naming the company after its hometown or province (think Husqvarna, Hestra, Sandvik or Scania) or the founder’s name (Hasselblad, or even ABBA—Agnetha, Benny, Björn and Anni-Frid). Sweden’s most famous firm, IKEA, in fact gives you both—founder Ingvar Kamprad’s initials plus the first letters of the family farm, Elmtayrd, and his hometown, Agunnaryd. Viktor Haglöfs chose Haglöfs, and so it was, 100 years ago, outdoor goods manufacturer Haglöfs had its humble beginnings. Today it has become one of the world’s fastestgrowing outdoor brands, active not only in backpacks but also footwear and especially clothing. A major brand in Japan, it has its own retail outlets and national distribution network. “What makes us different is we are a premium brand featuring technical gear,” says Ken Enomoto, marketing manager of Haglöfs Japan from his office in Ichigaya, Tokyo. “The customer doesn’t have to worry about performance when using our gear. We use a very precise method in cutting our patterns from a single piece of material. It costs more, but results in a product much stronger and more beautiful. Skiers, climbers and guides all use our gear, and we use their feedback to make sure it’s even better,” Enomoto said. For years, Haglöfs was known primarily for its tough backpacks but, in the 1980s, began to add a few tents, sleeping bags and footwear to the mix. In 1995, the company received a license to use Gore-Tex® fabric and began a line of clothing as well. “Today backpacks and sleeping bags account for about 15 percent of our sales,” says Fredrik Kjellberg, Global Marketing Manager at Haglöfs Scandinavia AB. “Footwear accounts for another 15 percent, and clothing is now a full 70 percent.” In Japan, a local distributor represented Haglöfs from about the time it began making clothing. Today, Enomoto says, the company is well established. “We have our own branded stores in Sapporo, Harajuku in Tokyo, Osaka and Fukuoka, as well as shop-in-shop stores around the country.” In fact, the company is actually owned by Japanese sporting goods manufacturer Asics, although operations remain centered in Sweden. So while Haglöfs is still in many ways an active, growing, youthful organization, it is turning 100 this year. Anniversary celebrations are a given for a major milestone such as this—and there have been events in Japan as well as in other markets—but the company decided to go back to its roots to really mark its centennial.

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“We quickly agreed that, since we started with backpacks, the natural thing to do was to create a backpack that would celebrate what we have been doing for 100 years,” Kjellberg says. “We didn’t want it just to be a retro backpack; we wanted to take inspiration from a classic old Haglöfs backpack, but produce it for the modern person. Since we started in the small village of Torsång—not even a village, really, but a farm, basically—we thought it would be really cool if we could make it in Sweden.” The idea might have been cool, but it also turned out to be tough. There isn’t much manufacturing actually going on in Sweden these days; Haglöfs has been producing many of its products in Asia since the 1980s. “Production was the first obstacle to work out, so we decided to hook up with the Haglöfs family,” Kjellberg says. Rolf and Hans Haglöfs, sons of founder Viktor, actually sold the firm in 1975 and founded SACCI, a company producing mostly gear for the military. “They have a small production facility in Sweden that can do both sewing and manufacturing. Hans Haglöfs is now in his mid-80s, but he’s there every day from 9 to 5. So he was in on the project early.” The next problem, Kjellberg says, was materials. “No one does Velcro in Sweden today,” he says. “No one does zippers,


頑丈なバックパックとしてよく知られていたホグロフスは

1980年代になってからテント、スリーピングバック、そしてフット ウェアを製品に加えた。

1995年にはゴアテックス素材を使用するライセンスを取得 した。 「バックパックとスリーピングバックの売り上げは15%を占め ています」とホグロフス・スカンジナビアABのグローバル・マー ケティングディレクターのフレドリック・キルバーグは言う。 「フッ トウェアは15%、残りの70%はすべてクロージングです」 エノモト氏は自信をもって答えた。 「直営店が札幌や東京 の原宿、また大阪や福岡にあります。またショップ・インショッ プは全国に展開しています」 事実、この会社のオーナーは日本のスポーツグッズメー カーであるアシックスだ。しかしオペレーションは現在もス ウェーデンでおこなわれている。 ホグロフスという会社は躍動的ではつらつとしたエネルギー を保ったまま100年という節目を迎え、また日本やほかの市場 でもそれを祝うがごとく大きな転換期が訪れた。しかしこの会 社は100周年を迎えたがゆえに、そのルーツを遡ろうという決 断をした。 「バックパックからはじまったのですから、バックパックをつく ることが100周年を祝うことになるとすぐに気づきました」とキ ルバーグ。 「でもレトロなバックパックをつくるつもりはありませんでし た。かつてのホグロフスがつくったクラシックなバックからイン スピレーションは感じながらも、現代人に合った製品をつくろ うと思ったのです。村というより農場というほうが正しいかもし れない小さな村からスタートしたこの会社だからこそ、スウェー デンで製品をつくったらすばらしいと感じました」 そのアイデアはすばらしい。しかし実現するとなると簡単で はない。スウェーデン国内では製造業の需要は伸びなやん でいるからだ。ホグロフスも1980年代からアジアでほとんどの 製品の生産をおこなっている。 「それが最初の壁となりました。そのためにホグロフの家族 に協力を求めました」。ビクター・ホグロフの息子ロルフとハ ンスは1975年に会社を売却して、SACCIという軍に製品を供 給する会社を立ちあげた。 「彼らは小さな工場をスウェーデン に所有していました。そこでは縫製などの製造が可能でした。 ハンス・ホグロフスは80代半ばですが毎日9時から5時まで勤

務しています。だからこのプロジェクトにもすぐに対応してくれ

クター・ホグロフは、彼の手による製品の販売 に成功を収めると、 スウェーデンの伝統にならっ

ました」 次の壁は素材の調達だった。 「ベルクロもジッパーもス

て地元の町や地方、もしくは創業者の名前を

ウェーデン製のプレスボタンさえも扱っている会社がなかった

会社の名前に選んだ (ハスクバーナ、 サンドビッ

のです」

ク、スカニア、ハッセルブラッド、ABBA-アグネッタ、ベニー、 ビヨン、アニーフリッドなどが好例) 。 有名なIKEAは創業者、イングバー・カンプラッドと家族の

とにかく多大な調査のはてにリグセックNo1が完成した (100周年記念モデル) 。 「ストラップのためのすばらしい革を見つけました」とキル

農園、エルムタードと地元のアグンヤードのイニシャルを取っ

バーグ。 「それはエコフレンドリーで国内生産されています。

て名つけられた。

あのルイヴィ トンでも使われているのです」

100年前にビクター・ホグロフスはホグロフという名を選び、

フェルトは中北部から。バッグの素材、ラベル、Dリングや

アウトドア・グッズのメーカーとして慎ましい第一歩を踏んだ。

フック、ボタン、リベッツは中南部や西部から。帯や紐は中

現在、ホグロフスは世界で急速に成長するアウトドアブランド

部から調達することができた。

のひとつとなった。その製品はバックパックだけではなく、靴、 そしてクロージングが含まれる。日本でもメジャーなブランドと して地位を確立し、直営店と全国的な規模の販売網を有し ている。 「私たちはテクニカルギアを販売するプレミアム・ブランド なのです」とホグロフス・ジャパンのマーケティング、ケン・エ ノモトはオフィスのある東京の市ヶ谷で語る。 「お客さまは製品にたいする心配をすることなく使用する

「この素材のための調査はまさにルーツを辿ることになった んです」とキルバーグ。 「かつてはともに仕事をおこなっていた会社との再会でも ありました。さらにこのプロジェクトは新しい分野への試みで もあったのですから、その悩みも多かったのです。しかし完成 した製品の仕上がりはすばらしいものとなりました」 そのバッグは本当に美しい。でもおそらくだれもそれを山に 持ち込んで登山をしようという気にはならないだろう。柔らか

ことができます。素材のカットにも妥協しないためにコストは

い紺色の生地とエンボス加工のある革ストラップはオールド

掛かりますが、その代わりに強く美しい製品となるのです。ス

ファッションの趣がある一方で、フックやボタン類は現代的だ。

キーヤーやクライマー、そしてガイドからのフィードバックを生か してよりよい製品に育てていきます」

またこのバッグにはあるラベルが付けられていて、各部位 がどこで生産されたかが記されている。また過去に使用した AUTUMN 2014

49


and you can’t even find Swedish-made press buttons.” Not at first, anyway. After a lot of searching, the material that would come together in the “Ryggsäck N:o 1” (rucksack No. 1, the 100th anniversary model) slowly got sourced. “We found a really nice leather for the straps,” Kjellberg says. “It’s an eco-friendly leather made in Sweden (at Tärnsjö Garveri, for those keeping track), which is also used by Louis Vuitton.” They sourced felt from central-north Sweden, the fabric for the main bag, labels, D-rings and hooks and buttons and rivets from the south-central and western areas and webbing and cord from central Sweden. “The search for the materials took us back to our roots,” Kjellberg says. “In some cases back to working with companies with whom we hadn’t worked in many years. The project also put our innovation to the test in a new way— there were lots of headaches, but the final product had a great look and feel.” It is a great-looking bag—probably not something you’d want to take out bashing through the woods or on the next climb, though. Soft blue fabric, embossed leather straps and slightly old-fashioned—but fashionable—hooks and buttons. The bag even has a label that tells from where all parts of the bag came, and a place where several generations of users can write their names and the dates when they used it. Each of the limited edition run of 1,000 bags is handnumbered as well, by Hans Haglöfs himself. “Hans Haglöfs put in all the rivets himself and is numbering them all by hand,” Kjellberg says with a smile. “He and his sons live right there on the production site, so he’s been hands-on the whole way through. It’s been very exciting for us to reconnect with them through this project.” Haglöfs may be celebrating its long history with the Ryggsäck N:o 1 but, again, it is also a company growing and looking to the future. “We’re focusing intently on sustainability and environmental issues,” Kjellberg says. “We’re a company made up of outdoor people, so obviously we are concerned about the environment, perhaps more so than average people. We really need to change the process of how things are made, and we are constantly pushing the limits in this.” This is the first season, he says, in which Haglöfs will label the products where it has progressed the most in this area.

人々が名前とその日付を記入できるようになっている。しかも この限定で製造された1,000個のバッグはハンス・ホグロフに よってナンバリングもされた。 「ハンス・ホグロフは自らの手でリベットを打ち、ナンバリン グもしました」とキルバーグは笑顔で答えた。 「彼や息子たちはいまも製造業に従事しているんです。だ から彼らの手がこのプロジェクトに加わるということは自然で もあり意義深くもあったのです」 ホグロフスはリグセックNO1を製作することによって、その 長い歴史を祝うことができた。しかし彼らが将来の発展にも 着目しているのはいうまでもない。 「私たちはサステナビリティ (持続可能性)や自然環境の問題に熱い眼差しをむけてい ます」とキルバーグ。 「私たちはアウトドアを指向する人々に支えられているので すから、環境に関心があるのは当然ですし、社会通念よりも 高い意識をもっています。したがって、製造にかんしても可能 なかぎり環境の保護を優先しています」 さらに彼によるとホグロフスは製品にあるラベルを付ける 最初のシーズンになるという。それはその製品がカテゴリー内 でもっとも進歩したことが記されているという。 「まだ工業製品のスタンダードとはいえませんが、試金石

“There are few industry standards at this time, but there are criteria that are being more commonly used,” he says. “One is bluesign®, an industry standard aimed at reducing and replacing potentially harmful chemicals. Another covers the use of organic cotton, and one more recycled materials. “Any product that covers these three criteria is marked with our ‘Take Care’ label,” he continues. “By placing this label on our products, we feel consumers can make more sustainable choices.” With Haglöfs, he adds, it won’t be hard to make that choice: some 60 percent of all 2014 products are already marked with the Take Care symbol, with even more coming next year. “We’re also working hard on innovation, which goes hand-in-hand with sustainability,” Kjellberg adds. For Japanese consumers, Ken adds, there are some exciting developments for the 2016 season. “We’ll be providing more products with Asian sizing, such as shorter sleeve lengths.” But those who appreciate Haglöf’s larger, European roots shouldn’t worry. “We’re keeping the entire lineup,” he promises. ✤

We’re a company made up of outdoor people, so obviously we are concerned about the environment, perhaps more so than average people. 私たちはアウトドアを指向する人々に支えられているのですから、 環境に関心があるのは当然ですし、社会通念よりも 高い意識をもっています。

50

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になればよいと思っています」と彼はつづける。 「ひとつがbluesign®です。影響をおよぼす可能性がある 化学製品の使用を減らす、または代用品に交換することを 目的としたものです。ほかにはオーガニックコットンを使用して いるか、そして残りがリサイクル素材を使用しているかです」 「この3つの基準を満たしている製品には 「テイクケアーラ ベル」にそのことが記されます。これによって私たちは顧客に たいしてよりサステナブルな製品の選択ができるようになる のではと感じています」 だが2014年の製品にはこのラベルの添付が60%の製品 にしか付けられていないという。しかし次のシーズンにはさら に増やすという。 「改革にむかってつねに努力しています。サステナビリティ でもある必要があるのですからね」 日本の顧客にたいしては2016年シーズンに大胆な改革を おこなう予定だとケンはいう。 「アジアンサイズを提供する予 定です。たとえば短めの袖丈の製品です」 それでもホグロフス製品の魅力であるヨーロッパのテイスト が失われることはないという。 「私たちはすべてのラインナッ プを提供しつづけるのですから」と彼は約束した。✤


ON THE RUN By Robert Self

T

wenty years ago, while I was slogging up 4,322-meter Mt. Shasta in deep snow and biting sub-zero winds, a guy passed me carrying virtually nothing but a pair of skis. “Light and fast man, light and fast,” he said over his shoulder in my general direction. I was a well-trained ekiden runner in Japan, but I had a 25-kilo pack containing a tent, mat, sleeping bag, food and water and perhaps a book or two. I loathed the guy at that moment from the depth of my being, but he did have a point. A seed was planted. Could I go lighter and faster? Did I need the massive turtle shell on my back? Could I rely on my fitness and experience to get me up and down the mountain in a hurry? It was years later that I began running with Tony Grant who came to the trail-running community from the world of technical climbing. He had an almost perverse love of vertical rock surfaces. At first I found it merely exotic as it seemed extraneous to the endurance runs I was doing: long vertical, cardio-blasting expeditions. Rocks were just something to navigate over, or avoid if possible, in my quest for speed, distance and elevation.

ROCK ’n’ RUN

One of our first long runs together was a oneday trail run that nearly traversed the main peaks of the Central Alps. Tony was looking forward to the spires of notorious Hoken-dake the most. Many years before, I squeezed through the chimneys and chutes with a massive backpack while clambering up and down chains, wishing it would be over soon. Tony not only blazed through Hoken-dake in about a quarter of the time indicated on the map, but also he did it while avoiding using chains or ropes like they were covered with the Ebola virus. In fact, he never once touched any available aid. As I followed, I realized there was a message in this style. It was light, fast, free and elegant. Most people climb to reach the top, others try to get up and down quickly, but few consider the elegance of their methods. Since then, I have come to cherish these routes that combine trail running and free climbing even though they are very different skill sets. It can be like a biathlon, with different routes having more or less rock climbing added to the trail running aspect.

I will never be a great rock climber. My default is to rely on brute strength and stamina, which is to say I have no technique and welcome chains and ropes when needed. Tony uses them only if conditions are poor, such as in ice, snow or rain. Other than that, he finesses every rock face on the routes as I tag along behind, doing whatever my skill set allows. Together we have knocked down some courses in a fraction of the recommended times, not just because we run the runnable bits, but because we consistently move fast on rock surfaces as well. In truth, this has sometimes meant going around the lines that form at the base of chains on some peaks. This looks bad from time to time, with polite and traditional Japanese climbers perhaps thinking we are merely cutting in front of the line for the chains as we avoid them. Where can you find a bit of vertical rock to go with the basic light and fast mentality of trail running? Below Tony and I introduce seven routes for all skill and stamina ranges. Start with the easier routes before deciding if “runnin’ and rockin’” is for you. AUTUMN 2014

51


ROUTE GUIDE Compiled by Robert Self and Tony Grant

BEGINNER LEVEL IZUGATAKE(伊豆ヶ岳): Izugatake’s summit is just 851m, a doable run for most trail runners. When starting from Shoumaru Station on the Seibu Ikebukuro Line in Saitama, it is the final summit bit that provides all the thrills. Yes, the phrase “otoko-michi” (man’s route) might be a bit sexist to our modern ears, but the term is traditionally used to explain the more angular routes up mountains, in contrast to the “onna-michi” (woman’s route). “Otoko-michi” is roped off, but that does not stop anyone from climbing this series of nearvertical chains to the summit. It’s photogenic and darned good fun; however, the rocks are almost polished smooth, if not varnished, by generations of climbing boots. Take care. Most hiking and trail running route guides recommend the trail from the peak of Izugatake toward the interesting temple of Nenogongen. I have always preferred the great scenery of the route in the opposite direction; on to Shoumaru Mountain, then back down to Shoumaru Station. It is a really neat circular run. The rock climbing portion can be completed by most people with a head for heights. KENTOKUZAN(乾徳山): One of my favorite day runs in Japan, Kentokuzan is perhaps the best basic indicator of whether combining trail running and vertical rock is your cup of tea. The trailhead of this 2,031m peak in Yamanashi is easily accessible by bus or taxi from Enzan Station. Fit runners can get up and down in less than four and a half hours. There are some spectacular rock faces leading to the summit. It is possible in good conditions to mostly ignore the available chains and just freestyle this superb white rock or make use of the chains for added safety. If you are a madman (like Tony), you can also descend the rock without using chains.

INTERMEDIATE LEVEL MT. RYOKAMI, HATCHO RIDGE(両神山 ~上落合 橋から八丁尾根): Saitama’s Mt. Ryokami is one of Japan’s 100 Famous Mountains (Hyakumeizan). Its castle-like ridge is unmistakable even from a distance. The actual summit peak is only 1,723 meters, making it one of the smaller mountains on the Hyakumeizan list. Simply summiting the mountain and coming back down the same route is not terribly difficult. The real fun happens as you follow the summit cirque around the amazing Hatcho Ridge, a series of spires and cliffs. With more chains than a Hell’s Angels convention, trail runners are unlikely to shatter map times too much. Tony free-styled all of this, while I was reduced to the shakes on chains in one or two places. I’ve done the course four times, and it never gets old. MT. TANIGAWA(谷川岳)VIA THE NISHIKUROONE ROUTE(西黒尾根): Don’t get too spooked when the Japanese insist Tanigawa is a killer of a mountain. The Nishikuro-one route to the top is not terribly dangerous, despite four or five chained areas. In good conditions, a trail runner may not

52

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ULTRA COMBINED By Tony Grant

need to bother with these on the ascent. The vertical here won’t get your heart pounding as much as the actual physical demands of the unremitting climb upward. The consolation is the tremendous views on this route. Budget two and a half or three hours to the summit of Tanigawa, or more if your running fitness is not optimal. There are various routes down, including the ropeway.

ADVANCED LEVEL NOKOGIRI-YAMA(鋸岳)TO KAIKOMAGATAKE(甲 斐駒ケ岳)– THE SAWTOOTH RIDGE IN A DAY: Visible from the window of a Chuo Line train, the Sawtooth Ridge is the dramatic skyline that runs from the peak of Yamanashi’s Mt. Nokogiri (2,685m) over to neighboring Mt. Kaikoma (2,967m). It is aptly named; to get from one to the other, you have to traverse a series of jagged pinnacles, involving airy scrambles down cliffs and chains, steep talus fields and mind-numbing drop-offs. To even contemplate doing this in a day from the car park at Todai, you’re going to need the right frame of mind and physical preparation. It is a monster. To relive the memories of the experience every time you pass by on the train is simply tremendous. SARUKURA(猿倉)– OGISAWA(扇沢)TRAVERSE – THE HAKUBA GIANTS IN A SINGLE-PUSH: This stunning itinerary has it all: Year-round snow

on the daisekkei of Mt. Shirouma, steep chains and ladders to Mt. Karamatsu, exposed rock scrambling along the magnificent kiretto between Mt. Goryu and Mt. Kashimayari… It is a fierce accumulated ascent and descent with hour after hour of exhilarating concentration in the zone. The Lonely Planet hiking guide recommends four days for this traverse, but the real challenge is to go deep and complete it in a single push; ideally around 24 hours or less. Be warned: this journey will tax whatever physical and mental reserves you can bring to it. YARIGATAKE KITAKAMA RIDGE(槍ヶ岳北鎌尾 根)IN A SINGLE-PUSH: I include this route here as one of the ultimate Japanese expressions of the purity of the lightweight single push. Traditionally done over several days, the Kitakama is increasingly being done in less than 24 hours from trailhead to trailhead, by those with combined mountain running fitness and climbing skills. Approaching the start of the Kitakama ridge would be an outing in itself for many; it is remote and a long way from help if you get into trouble— and there are no chains or ladders on this side of the mountain. This is certainly not to be taken lightly, but for those with what it takes for a single-push ascent of the most aesthetic ridgeline on Japan’s Matterhorn in super-light style, the experience is unforgettable.

Robert Self came to Japan from northern California's redwood country. He has been running in Japan's mountains for 20 years and has coached runners from beginners to international champions. He is the director of Hanno Trail School which specializes in running tours and trail running lessons. Web: www.tokyotrailrunning.com / Facebook: www.facebook.com/tokyotrailrunning

R

unning mountain trails at any level offers freedom and the joy of moving quickly over big terrain. But when you combine the speed and endurance of an ultra-runner, the confidence of a rock climber and the route-finding and logistical sense of the mountaineer, things can get really interesting. When these skill sets intersect, alchemy can take place, and things get done that seem jaw-dropping in their most elevated applications. Increasingly, mountain itineraries traditionally viewed as tough multi-day hikes or variation routes for alpine climbers are going down in single pushes, often without sleep, and invariably with extended periods of movement at night through difficult or exposed areas. None of this is new, of course. Many enthusiasts are familiar with the exploits of modern mountain runners such as Kilian Jornet and Anton Krupicka; the rich heritage of rock scrambling on long mountain routes stretches way back. Outside of Japan, distinctions such as hiker, runner and climber are less clear-cut, and many of the classic big itineraries call for a complete alpine skill set. There is always risk involved in setting out lightweight to go big in the mountains, and the smart practitioner will put in the time and effort to develop each of the skills needed to stay safe. But for those with the imagination and the necessary depth of experience, the high mountains of Japan offer as much adventure as any mountain range in the world.

AUTUMN 2014

53


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Outdoor Japan Traveler - Issue 53 - Autumn 2014  

Enjoy Issue #53 of Outdoor Japan Traveler magazine. The Autumn 2014 Issue is packed full of stand-up fun, from Lake Tahoe to Japan’s Great L...

Outdoor Japan Traveler - Issue 53 - Autumn 2014  

Enjoy Issue #53 of Outdoor Japan Traveler magazine. The Autumn 2014 Issue is packed full of stand-up fun, from Lake Tahoe to Japan’s Great L...

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