Outdoor Japan Traveler | Issue 83 | Summer 2022

I S S U E 83

SUMMER 2022

PACIFIC CRUSH Clark Little on ‘The Art of Waves’ 48 Hours on Zamami Kayaking Iwate's Pureland Paradise A Mountain Town Frozen in Time Summer Fun in Shiga Kogen Japan Eco Track: Cycling Okhotsk Japan's Award-Winning Beers Hakone's Farmers Market Summer Music, Events & More!

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ISSUE 83

SUMMER 2022

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PACIFIC CRUSH INSIDE

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48 Hours in Zamami

Summertime Fun in Shiga Kogen

From the Editor. . . . . . . . . 5 Craft Beer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Market Watch. . . . . . . . . . . 7

Sea Kayaking Iwate's Pureland Paradise

A Mountain Town Frozen in Time

Summer Events . . . . . . . . . 8 Japan Eco Track. . . . . . . . . 12 Travel Directory. . . . . . . . . 31 Summer 2022 | 3

F r om t h e Edi t o r

Published Seasonally

PUBLISHER Outdoor Japan G.K. DIRECTORS Mike Harris, Charles Odlin, Gardner Robinson FOUNDER / EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Gardner Robinson MEDIA PRODUCER / EDITOR Rie Miyoshi CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Bill Ross CONTRIBUTORS Joan Bailey, Brian Crawford, Quinlan Faris, Daniel Moore, Derek Yamashita DESIGN Outdoor Japan OUTDOOR JAPAN G.K. 45 Yubiso, Minakami-machi, Tone-gun, Gunma-ken 〒 379-1728 EDITORIAL INQUIRIES editor@outdoorjapan.com VIDEO / MEDIA PRODUCTION media@outdoorjapan.com SPONSORSHIP / PROMOTIONS media@outdoorjapan.com DESTINATION MARKETING media@outdoorjapan.com

@outdoorjapan

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s tourists slowly roll back into the country, albeit with hands tightly held by tour companies, it feels like normalcy isn’t too far away. Fuji Rock has confirmed international acts are back this summer to headline a start-studded lineup in the mountains of Niigata. Music festivals, races, fireworks festivals and craft beer events are all getting back on track and it's shaping up to be a fun summer.

We’re excited to highlight some cool summer destinations and activities from our regional contributors, dropping some local knowledge to help travelers hit the road looking for new places to explore. Quinlan Faris takes a break from climbing Tohoku’s mountains to travel to Iwate’s “Pureland Paradise” for sea kayaking along this beautiful coastline. Daniel Moore checks in from Nagano with some refreshing summer fun up in the mountains of Shiga Kogen and Derek Yamashita travels to Yamagata’s Hijiori Onsen, a hidden mountain enclave with a lot to offer intrepid travelers, from hot springs to farm-to-table delicacies and a “lost in time” vibe.

From turf to surf, Brian Crawford takes us island hopping in his RV to Okinawa’s Zamami Island. These Covid times have been brutal for the tourism industry but as people have simplified their lifestyles, camping cars and camping car rental companies have seen a resurgence. When you think camping cars you may picture an RV rolling through the mountains to some picturesque lake with mountain bikes or SUPs in tow, but “48 Hours in Zamami” might make you rethink this image. In fact, from Okinawa’s main island there are a number of options for travelers with vehicles. From Naha’s Tomari Port you can hop over to Zamami, Aka, Tokashiki, Kume and Tonaki islands. Further north, there is a ferry that carries vehicles from Motobu Port to Ie Island and from Unten Port to Iheya or Izena islands. If you are traveling without a car there are even more options.

Back in 2011 our Summer issue featured a perfect wave curling onto the beach with the sandy cliffs of Niijima seen through the barrel. Japan had just endured the wrath of a powerful earthquake and tsunami, and we wanted to show the beauty of nature and the ocean as the country was reeling from the aftermath. What better way, we thought, than through the eyes of Clark Little, arguably the world’s most famous wave photographer. Clark has dedicated himself to capturing moments of beauty in some of the most powerful waves on earth. Eleven years later, Clark is back and we interviewed him about his new book, “The Art of Waves.” His latest collection of work is special; two-thirds of the photos have never been published and there are some stunning new marine life photos such as “Ocean Eagle,” which graces our cover. He has a new willingness to share the tricks of his trade and what keeps him heading back out in that heavy Hawaiian shorebreak, taking beatings to get that perfect shot after fifteen years of shooting waves.

We hope you’ll enjoy Issue 83, find some travel ideas and inspiration to try something new. Every season is a new adventure, get out there and discover yours this summer!

—Gardner Robinson Editor-in-Chief

AIRLINE PARTNERS Traveler magazine is available at selected lounges, reservations counters and in-flight libraries with the following airline partners.

トラベラーマガジンは、空港ラウンジや予約カウンターや、右記航空会社インフライト・ライブラリーにてお読みいただけます。

Cover Photo: "Ocean Eagle" by Clark Little

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©2022 OUTDOOR JAPAN G.K. all rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. Views expressed herein are not necessarily those of OUTDOOR JAPAN G.K. Printed in Japan.

CRAFT BEER

KAMPAI!

to Japan’s Award-Winning Breweries

BY GARDNER ROBINSON

T

he Wor ld Beer Cup held their biennial celebration of craf t beer this year in Minneapolis, Minnesota after skipping the event in 2020 due to the global pandemic. In 2008 there were 644 breweries and 2,864 beers entered in the competition. The 2022 event—the largest to date despite travel uncertainties and the two year hiatus— saw 2,493 breweries enter more than ten thousand of their finest brews across 103 styles.

Breweries from 57 countries were competing for the coveted awards and Japan was well represented, entering the third most beers in the competition (293), just edging out Germany (253), and only trailing the United States (8,058) and Canada (408). The growing number of entries may astonish casual craft beer enthusiasts, but as Steve Parr, Brewers Association Export Development Program Manager, notes, the groundswell of good beer flowing in across the Pacific has been slowly building. ”It’s no surprise that craft beer has thrived in Japan in recent years. Many of the traits associated with craft beer like quality ingredients, full flavor, art and creativity, are appreciated by the Japanese consumer. Combined with changes in legislation that increased access to market and the ability to operate a small brewery, the stage has been set for Japanese craft brewers to carve out their own innovation and commitment to creating products that beer drinkers enjoy not just in Japan, but that resonate globally. In fact, more U.S. craft brewers expor t to Japan than any other country because of it,” he says.

American breweries took home the majorit y of the awards followed by Canada, G e r ma ny a n d Ja p a n. Si x Japanese breweries were re cog nize d for t heir f ine brews wit h A k it a’s Aqula Brauhaus taking home Gold for their Namahage IPA in the International India Pale A l e c a t e g o r y, Miyazaki’s Hideji-Beer won a Gold Medal for their Kuri Kuro (Dark Chestnut Ale) in the Sp ecialt y Beer

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category, Chiba’s Harvest Moon also was awarded Gold in the Export or German-style Oktoberfest and Wakayama’s Heiwa Shuzou received the top award for their Heiwa Craft Red Ale in the Irish-Style Red Ale category. Other winners from Japan were two Yamanashi breweries, Far Yeast Brewing, who also has a Tokyo Brewery and Grill, won Bronze in the Specialty Saison c ategor y with their Tok yo W hite, while Outsider Brewing in Kofu also took home Bronze for their Sith Imperial Stout in the British-Style Imperial Stout category. A hearty kampai to all the Japanese craft breweries who entered and continue to devote their passion to creating tasty brews for craft beer lovers in Japan.

A full list of this year’s winners can be found at the World Beer Cup website at worldbeercup.org.

JAPAN'S 2022 WINNERS Aqula Brauhaus Akita City, Akita aqula.co.jp Hideji Beer Nobeoka, Miyazaki hideji-beer.jp Heiwa Shuzou Kainan-shi, Wakayama heiwashuzou.co.jp Harvest Moon Urayasu, Chiba ikspiari.com/harvestmoon Far Yeast Brewing Kosuge, Yamanashi / Shinagawa, Tokyo faryeast.com Outsider Brewing Kofu-shi, Yamanashi outsiderbrewing.com

MARKET WATCH

BY JOAN BAILEY

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Manazuru Naburaichi Farmers Market

n the last Sunday of each month, the port of Manazuru booms with life. Tucked amongst the fishing boats is a festive cluster of food trucks and nearly twenty tents featuring local organic produce, handmade tofu, baked goods, fresh and dried fish, two types of ramen, curry, artisanal coffee, and local crafts. A classic community affair, the Manazuru Naburaichi Farmers Market offers a little taste of everything this coastal town has to offer.

Started seven years ago by Takayuki Shibuyama, the market has become a community hub. When the programmer m o v e d t o M a n a z u r u f ro m To k y o t o establish a startup, he noticed there were few local shops to serve the population and many of those that were still open had owners ready to retire. Shibuyama shifted gears slightly and opened Manazuru Satoumi Base, an incubator for new businesses, in hopes of fostering a new generation of local merchants. When someone in the community suggested a farmers market, Shibuyama saw it as a natural extension of his work.

A line six people deep stretches from organic farmer Jin Okutsu’s booth where his bamboo shoots, fresh greens, and heirloom daikon are hot ticket items.

Okutsu originally trained as a mechanical engineer, but soon realized he preferred

being outdoors. It has now been eight years since he put his first seeds in the soil. Similarly, Masayoshi Nakatogawa started growing tomatoes after he retired twenty-two years ago. Carefully working the soil and balancing its nutrients lets him produce tomatoes with candylike sweetness that brings Tokyo chefs knocking. “You can’t find these in a supermarket,” he says pointing to an array of ruby red and sun-yellow fruits.

Another specialist grower is Teruo Ozawa whose citrus orchard is one of many terraced along the coastal mountainsides of the Izu Peninsula. “The wild boar love to eat these, so I know they must be good,” he laughs with the perspective afforded by sixty years of growing citrus. His selection is a blend of varieties ideal for juicing, marmalading, or just plain eating.

Chiharu Aoki and her mother are owners of Okakesou, a local inn and family business for more than thirty years.

They do a brisk business in creative side dishes that change with the season and their whim. Their lotus root, tuna and bean salad—along with another made from thinly sliced daikon with mayo and a bit of ham—are two favorites along with generously portioned onigiri and their homemade pickles.

Nearby Yugawara Tofu’s truck features tofu in a variety of flavors and textures, while Uoden, a local dried fish maker, offers modern versions of this classic regional delicacy that incorporate a French sauce and microwave-ready versions. “The market is a great place for community but also for hearing directly from customers,” says Jeff Garrish, who works with Shibuyama at Manazuru Satoumi Base.

“There’s always something new.”

MANAZURU NABURAICHI FARMERS MARKET Hakone, Kanagawa Last Sunday of the month, 10 a.m. - 1 p.m. facebook.com/manazuru.naburaichi

Summer 2022 | 7

GUIDE LINES

Kujukuri 99T Triathlon

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OMM Lite and Bike

EVENTS

Races

Offroad Triathlon in Shobudani Shobudani is a popular cycling and driving route in Hyogo. Racers can sign up for the full triathlon (swim 1,200 meters, cycle 13 kilometers and trail run eight kilometers) or go for the relay or lite options.

When: Aug. 28 Where: Shobudani Forest Park, Hyogo Web: tatunomtb.blog74.fc2.com

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Ise Shima Satoumi Triathlon This triathlon is ranked the top Olympic-distance triathlon in Japan and the third overall triathlon in Japan by Triathlon Lumina magazine. The race begins at Oyahama Beach with two laps of 750 meters (wetsuits required).

Athletes will ride two laps on a challenging 40-kilometer bike course featuring rolling hills and four tunnels. The run consists of two five-kilometer laps along coastal roads.

When: Sept. 24 Where: Shima, Mie Web: samuraisports.org

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Akagi Forest Trail Race This cross-country trail run starts at the Akagi Rink Community Center in the middle of Mt. Akagi. Climb to approximately 1,000 meters above sea level before reaching the summit of Mt. Omine. Runners can sign up for one loop (13 kilometers) or run the same course in reverse (26 kilometers).

When: Aug. 21 Where: Showa, Gunma Web: samuraisports.org

Kujukuri 99T Triathlon This is one of Japan’s largest triathlons. It’s a flat, fast course with a protected estuary for the two-kilometer swim, a straight route for cycling (90 kilometers) and running (21 kilometers) making it great for beginners.

When: Sept. 18 Where: Ichinomiya, Chiba Web: samuraisports.org

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Mt. Rokko Trail Run and Summer Picnic This trail run is held on Mountain Day in Japan at Mt. Rokko, which overlooks Osaka Bay. The 28-kilometer course goes up to 1,750 meters and takes about six hours, while the 10K race reaches 300 meters and takes about four hours. There is also a family-friendly rogaining challenge held the same day.

When: Aug. 11 Where: Kobe Municipal Arboretum, Hyogo Web: actrep-sports.com/mt-rokko-picnic

Gran Fondo Myoko Challenge yourself to Japan’s toughest one-day cycling event, which follows a 160-kilometer circuit around MyokoTogakushi Renzan National Park. The trail has a 4000-meter elevation and 30 kilometers of off-road sections. The race starts and ends at Myoko Ikenotaira Ski Resort, where you can unwind with beer and music.

When: Sept. 17 Where: Myoko-Togakushi Renzan National Park, Niigata Web: gfmyoko.com

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Niseko Hanazono Hill Climb This 14-kilometer race starts at Kutchan—the Potato Festival will be held here simultaneously—and runs mainly on flat roads until the Kutchan Agricultural High School.

From there, climb a wide mountain road. The last twokilometer stretch becomes a single lane with a steep slope until the goal at the border between Kutchan and Niseko towns.

When: Aug. 7 Where: Kutchan, Hokkaido Web: nisekohillclimb.com

NAC Trail Run and Niseko Gravel Hokkaido’s first trail run returns for its 21st race. Choose between a hardcore 30-kilometer mountain course, a shorter 10K run and a 5K serene forest trail course. The Niseko Gravel is a mixed-surface ride taking adventure cyclists through forest roads, gravel climbs and iconic Hokkaido farm trails.

When: Sept. 4 Where: Niseko, Hokkaido Web: nacadventures.jp/events/nac-trail-run-in-niseko nisekogravel.com

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OMM Lite and Bike Otari This entry-level race is designed to give newbies a feel of an Original Mountain Marathon (OMM) navigational race in the mountainous Hakuba Region. The OMM Lite is a two-day race with some off-trail areas, but most is on trail with teams of two to five people. Families and friends who are not participating can camp with racers in the overnight camping area. The OMM Bike (the cycling version of OMM Lite) will be held simultaneously.

When: July 23-24 Where: Otari, Nagano Web: theomm.jp

Zao Skyrun Run from spa to sky in Yamagata. The run starts from Zao Onsen’s hot spring town and heads up to the 1,840-meter Mt. Zao. You’ll also pass by the vivid-colored Lake Okama.

When: Sept. 3-4 Where: Zao Onsen, Yamagata Web: zaoskyrun.com

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Salomon 4100D Mountain Trail in Nozawa Onsen This trail run is in the traditional hot spring village and Olympic ski town of Nozawa Onsen. There are long (65 kilometers), middle (37 kilometers) and short (14 kilometers) courses and participants can run solo, as a pair or in a group.

When: July 17 Where: Nozawa Onsen, Nagano Web: s-mountain.com/nozawa

Sea to Summit Montbell’s popular Sea to Summit race series aims to help invigorate local areas, holding events where participants can experience nature through canoeing, cycling, trekking and other means of human-powered movement.

When and Where: July 16-17: Myoko, Niigata July 23-24: Bizen, Okayama Aug. 20-21: Asahidake, Hokkaido Sept. 10-11: Mt. Chokai, Yamagata Sept. 23-24: Lake Biwa, Shiga Oct. 8-9: Kamimachi, Miyagi Oct. 15-16: Chikuma River, Nagano Nov. 12-13: Kihoku, Mie Web: seatosummit.jp

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Hanazono Zip World

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Montbell Photo Contest Montbell, Japan’s largest homegrown outdoor brand, is hosting their fifth annual photo contest. Photo submissions include mountaineering, trekking, camping, kayaking, cycling, fishing, climbing, hiking and enjoying outdoor activities. Landscape and nature photography may also be submitted. Enter for your chance to win a ¥50,000 Montbell gift card and other exciting prizes. Anyone is eligible.

When: Until Aug. 31 Web: montbell.us/special/event/montbellphoto-contest

Hanazono Zip World This summer, Niseko welcomes Japan’s first multi-stage dual-cable zipline experience.

This three-stage zip tour is 2,591 meters in length and the longest in Japan. Black Diamond Superfly, the longest zipline in this course, is one of the longest ziplines in Asia at 1,700 meters.

All tours are guided and cost ¥15,000 per adult and ¥12,000 per child.

When: July 1-Oct. 10 Where: Niseko Hanazono Resort, Hokkaido Web: hanazononiseko.com/en Aichi Triennale This is one of the largest international art festivals in Japan and this year, both local and international contemporary artists have been invited to exhibit their works at the Aichi Arts Center, which includes the Aichi Prefectural Museum of Art and the Aichi Prefectural Theater.

The arts center is a five-minute train ride from Nagoya Station.

When: July 30-Oct. 10 Where: Aichi Arts Center, Aichi Web: aichitriennale.jp/en

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Niseko Autumn Food Festival Join local restaurants and bars as they s h o w c a s e t h e b e s t o f N i s e k o ’s c u l i n a r y experiences and fresh autumn produce during harvest season.

When: Sept. 15-18 Where: Niseko, Hokkaido Web: nisekotourism.com

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Magonote Food Camp Local farmers and people in the agricultural industry work together to revitalize Fukushima Prefecture after the 2011 disaster by opening up their farms and fields for a unique, farmto-table experience. Every month, Magonote Travel provides themed tours taking travelers to various farms around Fukushima. Spend the day learning and harvesting before being treated to a delicious lunch or dinner outdoors. Book ahead as space is limited (English translation available upon request). Tours include a taxi pick up and drop off service to your accommodation in Koriyama City or to and from Koriyama Station.

When and Where: July 23: Sunset Dinner and Stargazing Tour at Hop Japan Brewery Aug. 20: Aizu-Jidori Chicken and Vegetable Course Lunch at Misaka Highlands’ Sunflower Field Sept 17: Wine Tasting and French Cuisine at Winery Azuma Sanroku Oct. 23: French Course Lunch at a 200-year-old Sake Brewery Web: magonotetravel.co.jp/foodcamp/en

Summer 2022 | 9

Fuji Rock Photo by Tsuyoshi Ikegami

MUSIC

TRADITIONAL

Fuji Rock When: July 29-31 Where: Naeba Ski Resort, Niigata Web: fujirockfestival.com Rock in Japan Festival When: Aug. 6-7, Aug. 11-13 Where: Chiba Soga Sports Park, Chiba Web: rijfes.jp Rising Sun Rock Festival in Ezo When: Aug. 12-13 Where: Ishikari, Hokkaido Web: rsr.wess.co.jp/2022 Earth Celebration When: Aug. 19-21 Where: Ogi, Sado Island, Niigata Web: earthcelebration.jp Summer Sonic When: Aug. 20-21 Where: Tokyo and Osaka Web: summersonic.com Music Circus When: Aug. 27-28 Where: Sennan Long Park, Osaka Web: music-circus.jp Sunshine Festival When: Sept. 17-19 Where: Naeba, Niigata Web: sunshinefestival.jp New Acoustic Camp When: Sept. 17-19 Where: Minakami, Gunma Web: newacousticcamp.com Ringo Fes When: Sept. 23-25 Where: Matsumoto Alps Park, Nagano Web: ringofes.info Rainbow Camp When: Oct. 15-16 Where: Iiji Kogen Nature Tent Village, Ena, Gifu Prefecture Web: rainbowchild2020.com

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July 1-15: Hakata Gion Yamakasa Festival, Fukuoka July 1-31: Gion Festival July 8-10: Shonan Hiratsuka Tanabata Festival, Kanagawa July 16: Ueno Park Festival, Tokyo July 20-22: Kumatani Uchiwa (Fan) Festival, Saitama July 22-Aug. 17: Sapporo Summer Festival, Hokkaido July 23: Matsuri Erekoccha Dance Festival, Miyazaki July 23-24: Ogionsa Summer Festival, Kagoshima July 24-25: Osaka Tenjin Festival, Osaka July 28: Haneda Festival, Tokyo July 29-30: Chidorigafuchi Moat Floating Lantern Festival, Tokyo July 30-31: Nagasaki Minato Festival, Nagasaki Aug. 1-4: Morioka Sansa Dance Festival, Iwate Aug. 2-7: Aomori Nebuta Festival, Aomori Aug. 2-3: Nagaoka Fireworks Festival, Niigata Aug. 3: Tsukiji Honganji Bon Odori Festival, Tokyo Aug. 3-6: Akita Kanto Festival, Akita Aug. 5: Chikugogawa River Fireworks Festival, Fukuoka Aug. 5-7: Oita Tanabata Festival, Oita Aug. 5-7: Hinokuni Summer Festival, Kumamoto Aug. 5-7: Yamagata Hanagasa Festival, Yamagata Aug. 5-7: Fukushima Waraji Festival, Fukushima Aug. 5-7: Niigata Festival, Niigata Aug. 6: 57th Nakameguro Summer Festival Aug. 6-7: Onmaku Fireworks Festival, Ehime Aug. 6-8: Sendai Tanabata Festival, Miyagi Aug. 10-11: Yosakoi Festival, Kochi Aug. 12-15: Gujo Odori Bon Dance Festival, Gifu Aug. 12-15: Awa Odori Dance Festival, Tokushima Aug. 19-21: Okinawa All-Island Eisa Summer Festival, Okinawa Aug. 20: Hirafu Matsuri, Hokkaido Aug. 20-21: Okayama Momotaro Summer Festival, Okayama Aug. 27: Akita Omagari Fireworks Festival, Akita Sept. 1-3: Owara Kaze no Bon Festival, Toyama

BEER Hibiya Oktoberfest When: July 8-18 Where: Hibiya Park, Tokyo Web: oktober-fest.jp Numazu Fishmarket 22nd Anniversary Bash When: July 16-18 Where: Numazu Taproom, Shizuoka Web: bairdbeer.com/event BeerFes When and Where: July 16-17: MyDome, Osaka; Aug. 6-7: Nagoya Congress Center, Aichi; Sept. 23-25: Osanbashi Hall, Yokohama; Okinawa TBD Web: beertaster.org Belgian Beer Weekend When and Where: July 29-Aug. 7: Hibiya Park, Tokyo; Sept. 16-25: Citabria Baypark, Tokyo; Dec. 7-11: Shinjuku Sumitomo Building, Tokyo Web: belgianbeerweekend.jp/en Beer1 Grand Prix Festival When: Early September Where: Sumida Industry Hall, Tokyo Web: beer1grandprix.craftbeersupport.org

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L U X U R I O U S M T. F U J I GLAMPING

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t. Fuji Satoyama Vacation is a beautiful retreat site, luxurious camping facility and ecotourism hub centered around the Japanese concept of “wa” (harmony). It is exclusively available for guests of En-Ya Mt. Fuji Ecotours. Our ecotours and facility were conceived with the dream of creating and deepening connections with people and the surrounding nature under the watchful eye of Mt. Fuji: Japan’s number one icon and cultural heritage site.

After traveling all around the world working in community-based ecotourism development, founder Masanori Shintani returned to his home near Fujinomiya City in Shizuoka to create a sustainable and ecofriendly site on the foothills of Japan’s greatest mountain.

Our facility is carefully crafted and built around our upheld beliefs in sustainable tourism. We look forward to welcoming you to stay, enjoy our ecotours experience first-hand just how much we truly love and care about the beauty that Japan has to offer.

STAY

ECOTOURS

We limit our accommodation use to two small groups at a time as we value your privacy to relax and enjoy the surrounding nature and dynamic views of Mt. Fuji.

Our s tories are bor n out of our experience living on these lands. Mt. Fuji Satoyama Vacation collaborates with local businesses and people to continue enhancing our understanding and love for our surroundings.

RETREATS & REMOTE WORK HUB Our grounds are perfect for conducting retreats, workshops and team building programs, business leisure and "workcation" travels. Inspire, energize and create magic with your community while enjoying the fresh air and outstanding nature.

LUXURY PRIVATE EVENTS C ele b r at io ns s u c h as we d di ng s, bir t h d ay s or graduation, we can accommodate for private overnight or daytime events including weddings, birthdays and graduations.

Summer 2022 | 11

CYCLING HOKKAIDO'S WILD NORTH

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hile Hokkaido is covered in snow and ice in winter, the far north of Japan’s northernmost island is ideal for cycling and sightseeing in summer. The Okhotsk Region, home to a variety of wild animals nourished by abundant nature and quintessential Hokkaido culture and cuisine, is a great place to escape Japan’s sweltering summer down south.

The drift ice in the Sea of Okhotsk is a popular winter attraction, but in summer, enjoy expanses of wild flowers scattered along the coast, migratory birds flying over the lake, a rural landscape extending in a patchwork over the hills and the Akan-Mashu National Park with its beautiful landscape featuring a volcano, lake and primeval forest.

Okhotsk Tour Long Cycling Route

Distance: 224.9 kilometers Required Time: 16 hrs. 50 minutes This route starts at Memanbetsu Airport and takes in views of the mountains, sea and lakes at Bihoro Pass, Sekihoku Pass, Lake Notoro and the Sea of Okhotsk. It’s a long route that will take multiple days and requires stamina in the hills. The airport is located near Lake Abashiri, where you’ll find Meruhen no Oka, a gently sloping hill with stretches of vast potato and wheat fields.

Another popular activity during the green season is kayaking from Lake Abashiri to the Abashiri River, where you can see wild birds such as kingfishers, ducks and white-tailed eagles.

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Your first stop is Higashimokoto Shibazakura Park. This 10-hectare park is covered in vivid pink shibazakura (moss phlox). The park is open from May to October although the peak season for shibazakura is in May. For bird’s eye views, head to Highland Koshimizu 725, a resthouse situated at an altitude of 725 meters halfway up the 1,000-meter Mt. Mokoto.

Mt. Mokoto sits at the northern end of Akan-Mashu National Park and is the highest peak on the rim of the Kussharo caldera. From its peak, you can see a panoramic view of the Shiretoko Mountains and the Sea of Okhotsk and Lake Kussharo directly below.

Stop for local products and dishes at the michino-eki (roadside station), Hanayaka Koshimizu. The next michi-no-eki is Ryuhyokaido Abashiri, where you can embark on a nature cruise to see whales, dolphins and sea birds. There’s also the Koshimizu Wild Flower Park nearby, ex tending eight kilometers across elongated dunes. Between June and August, there are approximately 200 species of colorful wild flowers.

Lake Notoro and Ubaranai Glasswort Marsh is an hour away and boasts Japan’s largest coral grass colony spreading across the lake. The coral grass turns red in late summer (late August to early September) and transforms the lake into a bright red carpet.

See more than 300 species of wild flowers on a 25-meter-long sandbank between Lake Saroma and the Sea Okhotsk at Lake Saroma Wakka Wild Flower Park, a Hokkaido heritage site. Lake Saroma is the third largest lake in Japan and the largest brackish lake.

Head south to Kitami City to learn about Kitami hakka (mint) at the Kitami Mint Memorial Museum, before heading back to Ozora Town.

Okhotsk

Bihoro Pass Long Cycling Route

Distance: 122.4 kilometers Required Time: 9 hrs. 40 min.

This route also star ts off at Memanbetsu Airport but ventures further south to Bihoro Pass. Along the way, stop at Touge-no-yu, a popular day-trip onsen famous for its medicated bath. Another two hours and you’ll be at Bihoro Pass which sits at an altitude of 525 meters high in Akan-Mashu National Park. It’s a popular spot with photographers for views of unkai (sea of clouds) sitting above Lake Kussharo at dawn.

Make your way around Lake Kussharo to Kawayu Onsen, a hot spring village sourcing from a high-quality sulfur spring. An onsen river runs through the village center. Mt. Io, an active volcano, is located not far from this village and you can see hot steam rising.

Make your way north to join up with the Okhotsk Tour Long Cycling Route, and stop by Highland Koshimizu 725 and finish at the Koshimizu Tourist Center.

Sekihoku Pass Hill Climb Route

Distance: 72.1 kilometers Required Time: 7 hrs. 50 min.

This hill climb starts at Kitami Station a n d e n d s a t S e k i h o k u Pa s s , w h i c h connects Asahikawa and Kitami City.

You can see the Daisetsuzan and Akan mountain range from the observatory deck. Along the way, stop at michi-noeki Onne-yu Onsen located in a historic hot spring town. There’s an aquarium where you can learn about Hokkaido’s river life and the Japanese huchen, giant freshwater fish, see Japan’s first waterfall basin tank and the world’s first frozenover river tank.

Near Kitami Onsen is Mt. Nikoro, a popular trekking course that takes around two-and-a-half hours round trip from the Chuo-do Trailhead.

Getting There Memanbetsu Airpor t is east Hokkaido's main airport and the gateway to the Okhotsk Region. It takes a little less than two hours from Haneda Airport and 45 minutes from Chitose Airport.

There are rentals for road bikes a n d p o w e r- a s s i s t e d b i c y c l e s n e a r Memanbet su Air por t and JR Kitami Station between May and September. v

ABOUT JAPAN ECO TRACK

M o n t b e l l — J a p a n ’s l a r g e s t homegrown outdoor br and and retailer—started a series of events in 2009 called Sea to Summit. The goal was to invigorate local areas, holding event s to experience nature through canoeing, cycling, trekking and other human-powered move me nt . W hile t he s e eve nt s continue to be held in beautiful areas around Japan, the natural progression was to provide information and guides so travelers could experience these areas throughout the year at their own pace while learning the history and culture of the region and interacting with locals.

Japan Eco Track guides contain maps with designated routes of var ying dif ficult y levels. Each guide includes information on local restaurants, guides, tour operations and other attractions. Along Japan Eco Track routes there are support stations located at affiliated stores a n d majo r t r a n s p o r t a t io n h u b s such as train stations, airports and michi no eki (rest areas). Discounts and special of fer s are available at par ticipating loc ations when travelers show the Japan Eco Track booklet. There are more than 15 guides, with new areas being developed and offered in English. www.japanecotrack.net.

Summer 2022 | 13

PA C I F I C C R U S H Clark Little on "The Art of Waves" WITH GARDNER ROBINSON

Clark Little made a splash in 2009 when he self-published “The Shorebreak Art of Clark Little.” The coffee-table book, with forewords from old friends Kelly Slater and Jack Johnson, visually chronicled his story from Northern California to the North Shore and his personal journey from shorebreak surfer, reckless four wheeler and botanical gardener to arguably one of the most famous ocean photographers in the world. Thirteen years later—after countless thrashings in the heavy Hawaiian shorebreak—Clark has saved some of his best work for his third, and perhaps final book, “The Art of Waves,” while also sharing some insights of his craft.

H2ORNADO North Shore, Oahu

14 | TRAVELER

BLUE MOUNTAINS North Shore, Oahu go and decided I could share more of what I do. Hey, if everyone is having as much fun as I am shooting, that’s a great thing. We need more happy people in the world.

How has wave photography grown since you started?

There’s been a lot of growth. When the GoPro came out, it changed everything. Once the camera hit the market, you could buy it for a few hundred dollars and all kinds of people started showing up to the beaches shooting waves, their friends, taking selfies.

When I started, I would go to my local beach, travel to the outer islands, California or Japan and not see anyone shooting in the shorebreak. Then it boomed and people were doing it everywhere I went.

Photo by Dane Little

How did your latest, and perhaps final, book come about?

I hadn’t planned on publishing another book but the timing was right. My first two were self-published; it was a lot of work, and worth it, but I wasn’t going to do it again. An editor contacted me right after the Covid lockdowns with the concept for “The Art of Waves.” We’d been in contact for years, but this time something clicked. I hadn’t put out a book in six years, I had a lot of great shots sitting unpublished, including some of me shooting, and my team and I had the time to do it.

I specifically wanted the book to be available in Japan and Australia, two of my biggest fan bases outside the U.S., and through the publisher's network it’s my first book available worldwide. I honestly don’t see myself making another book after this—at least that was the spirit I approached the project with.

How do you feel when you look back at your work?

Each book marked a different part of my career.

When I look through the first one, I can see how I was just starting out in some shots, learning how to shoot shorebreak. It’s raw and experimental, yet some I consider excellent and are still popular in my gallery and as prints. It’s great to see they have aged well.

The new book is my best; I am really proud of it. I love the covers, image selection, sequencing, Kelly’s foreword, Jamie’s writing and how it captures the journey over the past 15 years. Two-thirds of the images have never been published in a book. My iconic shots, even a handful from my first book, made it in.

“The Art of Waves” feels more reflective and analytic, you share more about your process.

Yeah, part of the concept was to share my craft, give insights into unusual shots and have some short essays going deeper into waves, the North Shore and my life as a photographer.

For a long time I was trying to protect how I did things. Shooting waves was becoming popular; it was getting crowded on the beach. But I’ve let a lot of that

Summer Spring 2022 | 15

Have things changed much with your approach or routine?

Things have calmed down quite a bit. Instead of being in fifth gear and revving my engine hard, I feel like I am driving an automatic in cruise control.

Still working hard and shooting all the time, but the pace is perfect. I also don’t go out and shoot in crazy big days any more. I love big waves, and still go out in waves that scare me, but I’ve pulled back from the death wish stuff a bit. A few too many close calls.

Those first few years I was racing around, so I was always thinking it would come to a stop any day and had to take advantage of all the opportunities. One week, I went to the Greenroom Festival in Yokohama for two days then jumped on a plane at midnight to get back to Hawaii to do the Today Show live on Waikiki Beach. Thirty-six hours later I was flying back to Japan to open an exhibit in Tokyo. I really like the pace now. Not as much adrenaline, but also not a blur.

Do you still go out and shoot solo?

Not much any more. One reason is I don’t wake up an hour before sunrise to get certain shots. I used to go out alone in the dark to catch the morning sun in the barrel. Now if I want those kind of shots, I go in the late afternoon and get the sunset in the barrel. Same shot, different angle and I get to sleep in.

When I started out I was alone at most beaches, even in the middle of the day. People would sometimes think I was drowning and go get help. They couldn’t imagine I was out there taking the poundings for fun. Now it seems everyone knows. No more false alarms for the lifeguards.

The last few years, when the waves and light are good, some of my friends come to the beach and its fun having everyone around hooting and hollering in

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Photo by Juan Oliphant

TIGER SHARK UP CLOSE North Shore, O'ahu

the water. We push each other and share techniques. Tourists even show up and I sign some autographs. Social media and the GoPro changed everything. The secret is out and has been out for some time. I can choose to be grumpy about the crowds or embrace it and be stoked everyone’s having a good time. I choose to be stoked.

In the book, the anticipation of the impending wave is palpable in the shot “Flash.” What’s going through your mind at that moment?

I am in the zone. Time is slowing down. I am seeing what the wave is doing and aiming at the interesting parts unfolding, staying to the last possible second to get the critical shot while making sure I get through the wave unhurt, using my peripheral vision to see everything else that’s going on.

A lot is moving quickly at once, so I need to stay calm and slow it all down.

The best shots are when I ride the fine line or cross it.

Are you still using a similar set up from when you started?

I had a cheap point and shoot with a case I bought on Amazon at first. When I pushed the shutter it would think, then autofocus. I could only get one shot at a time and had to time it just right. I would often miss shots.

Soon after seeing the potential with the point and shoot I got a professional Nikon D200 camera. Compared to that, my setup now is pretty similar. I shoot with a Nikon D5 and have a D4 as a backup. The technology has improved a lot. More memor y, more shots per second, better quality.

One fun addition was mounting a GoPro to the top of my camera housing.

The GoPro didn’t exist when I started and being able to film while I shoot stills adds a layer of fun to the process.

Yo u n e e d t o d i t c h y o u r c a m e r a sometimes on big waves. Many close calls wit h it flying a round on t he leash?

All the time. It’s one of the most dangerous things I have to watch out for.

If that camera hits me hard in the wrong place, it can knock me out. I’ve had my head rung a few times and stitches to show for it. Some pretty close calls.

Are you often surprised after looking closely once you get out of the water?

A lot of shots surprise me when I see them at home on a screen. There are details that come out that I can’t see when I am shooting. Sometimes I know I got a good shot when I take it. “Rainbow Shave Ice,” I knew when I took it. Same with “Big Blue.”

The conditions can be optimal, yet if there’s a water droplet on my lens or if someone photo bombs me in the distance, I won’t know until I get home and see it on the screen. That’s when I know if I actually have something.

“Flying Honu,” which made its way into the Smithsonian, was one your first marine life photos. In the new book you dedicate a section to it.

Flying Honu is what got me started in the marine life shots. I used to shoot during summer or on small days in winter to stay in shape and get in the water.

Once I got that shot, I really got into shooting and swimming with turtles.

Then I met some friends who took me out swimming with the sharks — cageless. It was pretty trippy for me since I grew up avoiding sharks when I surfed.

There was fear, and when you first swim with them, the adrenaline is pumping.

Then you learn more about them and get used to them. While out with the sharks, I might see whales, which led to whale photography. It wasn’t anything conscious; I like to stay active and keep things fresh, so I just embraced it.

PACIFIC CRUSH

Nijima, Tokyo You got out of your comfort zone shooting tiger sharks, how was the learning curve that first day?

It was wild, super crazy. Even the boat ride out took a bit to get comfor table. The crew I go out with—Juan Oliphant and Ocean Ramsey—are experts and taught me a lot. But you can’t let your guard down all the way. These are wild animals with powerful jaws.

Like surfers, you read tide and weather charts watching out for distant storms. Are you looking for the same patterns?

We are all basically looking for storms; none of us want it flat. But the good days at Pipeline might not be good at other beaches. Where I shoot, there is a sand bar that forms, shifts and changes all the time. Depending on the sand, I will look for certain swells. Some of my friends surf really big waves on the outside reefs. They are looking for a very different storm and swell. When the waves are that big, I shoot from shore and don’t go out. It’s suicidal and the lifeguards usually close the beaches.

Any plans to get back to Japan?

I would love to get back. I miss the people, the food, ever ything about it. Doing the Greenroom Festival every year was a lot of fun. Great memories from the exhibitions at Parco too. I want to take my wife and kids someday. I was happy I got to go to Japan with my mom before she passed away. She loved Japan and had many Japanese students (she was a professor in the Communications Department at the University of Hawaii).

Izu, Shizuoka Your son Dane scored the back cover; do you see him following in his dad’s footsteps?

He is good at it and seems to like it. He gets really close to the action too, but I'm not sure if he will follow in my steps. I don’t push him. Right now he’s into the plumeria farm his grandfather, my dad, started. He and I are spending the summer improving it.

You’ve mentioned the importance of understanding the physics of waves. Are you still learning?

Constantly learning. I have been studying waves since I was a kid, but there’s always something new keeping things interesting. Waves are dynamic.

Throw in weather, wind, tide, clouds and sun into the equation and it gets more complex. My mind is blown all the time, it keeps me going out. v

Clark along the cliffs of Nijima in 2011

The Art of Waves (2022) is available in Japan through Amazon Japan and Kinokuniya Bookstores.

Books Kinokuniya Tokyo (Takashimaya Times Square, Shibuya) has copies. You can also buy through ClarkLittle.com.

Summer Spring 2022 | 17

48 Hours in

Zamami

PHOTOS AND TEXT BY BRIAN CRAWFORD

Often referred to as the “Hawaii of Japan,” the archipelago of islands that make up Okinawa offer plenty of options for travelers. If you are short on time but high on adventure, a camping car expedition to the sleepy island of Zamami is a quick escape with beach camping, snorkeling and paddling the stunning “Kerama Blue” waters.

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hether you are fresh off the plane or spending a few nights enjoying the sights and sounds of Naha, Tomari Port is just a ten-minute taxi or fifteen-minute monorail from the airport or Kokusai Street in the heart of the city. The port is Naha's gateway to some fun island-hopping adventures. After slowly rolling our RV onto the ferry, the buildings in Okinawa’s biggest city quickly faded into the distance and our island getaway began.

The Kerama Islands (also known as the Zamami Islands) are just 90 minutes away on a slow ferry.

We arrived at Aka Island, a popular diving spot, at 11:30 a.m., and after a quick stop we arrived at our destination, Zamami Island, at high noon. The same boat turns around and heads back each afternoon.

The Keramas, designated as a national park in 2014, consist of 36 islands of which only four are

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inhabited. Zamami Island is a favorite for both locals and tourists from the main island to enjoy fishing, snorkeling or just to get away for a weekend in paradise. The island is home to roughly 550 residents and when you exit the ferry, you’ll arrive in downtown Zamami where most of the locals live and work.

Renting a scooter or bicycle is a breeze with several rental shops located downtown. Grab a bike or scooter and get a quick lay of the land or head straight to one of the gorgeous beaches to soak up the sun, snorkel and relax.

You can go in search of marine life with one of the scuba shops, or tr y your hand at some spor t fishing. And if you get off the boat hungry, pop into Zamami Burger & Pizza, located downtown, for some great pizza, which also hits the spot after a long day adventuring.

Yuji Miyazato was born on Zamami and raised fishing the waters around the islands. He owns and operates Gooddays Standup Paddle as well as his own fishing and whale watching charter. His boat, the Calenda GT, is a 47-foot custom Japanese boat built

by Hamagawa Shipbuilding Co. It’s an incredibly nice and comfortable boat—put on some of your favorite tunes and enjoy an island cruise.

And if you fish, Yuji’s a great guide. He’s a pas sionate marlin fisher man who competes on Japan’s professional fishing circuit and knows these waters well. You can enjoy an afternoon trolling, or if fishing isn’t your thing, he and his team also know the best snorkeling and SUP spots on the island. Yuji is a JSCA/SUPA SUP instructor. We couldn’t have asked for a better guide and spent the afternoon fishing and snorkeling the crystal clear waters—we even caught a glimpse of a humpback whale!

Summer Spring 2022 | 19

ESSENTIAL INFO

After a big day on the water we made our way to the Ama Beach Campground. The campground is a five-minute drive (or bus) from the port or a 20-minute walk if you are backpacking it. There are great options for everyone from tent sites to cool log cabins and autocamp sites for our RV. The facilities are great as well: showers, tent rentals and even free firewood are available if you didn’t come prepared. Remember to stop by the local market in town to grab some meat and vegetables for the barbecue before you arrive.

We hung out by our camping car and enjoyed some time by the fire before crashing out so we could get an early start.

We rose in the wee hours of the morning to go snorkeling on the beach directly out in front of the campground. It turned into a magical morning as we soon found ourselves swimming with sea turtles. The early mornings and evenings are the best time for chance encounters with these beautiful creatures as they come close to shore for feeding. Just look for their heads popping out of the water.

After getting out of the water, we had a hearty breakfast and an espresso back at the RV. It was time to relax and enjoy the real reason we came to Zamami—to detach from the hustle and bustle of our busy lives back home and connect with nature. It’s the perfect place to soak in the island vibes and relax with family and friends with no distractions.

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GETTING THERE Our favorite times to visit Zamami is late spring (before rainy season arrives in May) and October and November after summer’s peak season, when things cool down a bit but the ocean temperature is still comfor table. Rainy season usually is mid-May to mid-June, but the weather can be unpredictable so always check the forecast, especially during typhoon season in August and September.

If you are taking your car or camping car over to Zamami, the ferry leaves Tomari Port at 10 a.m. and arrives in Zamami at 12 p.m. Be sure to get to the port early and bring your vehicle registration to show proof of the vehicle’s size. If you have any questions, call a day ahead. Another option is the high-speed boat that leaves Naha at 9 a.m. and arrives at Zamami at 9:50 a.m., or at 4 p.m. and arrives in Zamami at 5:10 p.m. Check their website for updates in schedule and pricing at vill.zamami.okinawa.jp/ship.

Ama Beach Camping and Cabins Campsites, RV Sites and Cabins vill.zamami.okinawa.jp/enjoy/stay/2.html Gooddays Standup and Calenda GT SUP, Snorkeling, Fishing and Whale Watching Charters (winter) gooddaysstandup.com Okinawa RV Located about 50 minutes north of Naha, but ask about pick up/drop off options at Naha Airport. okinawarv.com TOURIST INFORMATION For more info and updates about events, activities, local shops and accommodation, check out vill.zamami.okinawa.jp. v

48 Hours in

Zamami ABOUT THE AUTHOR Brian Crawford is an Okinawa-based photographer and videographer who runs Zazen Media (www.zazenmedia.com). Brian’s wife Izumi runs Okinawa RV (www.okinawarv.com), camping car rentals and sales. Follow their adventures and learn more about camping car travel in Okinawa on their YouTube Channel at youtube.com/okinawaRV.

OKINAWA ISLAND BEAT

Clear Clear Your Your Mind Mind at at Tiger Tiger Beach Beach Explore Onna with clear views from above and below the colorful sea.

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he Onna Coastline stretches nearly 30-kilometers on the west side of Okinawa's main island facing the East China Sea. Cape Maeda and its Blue Cave attract throngs of snorkelers and divers. The limestone cliffs at Cape Manzamo and the underwater observatory at Busena Marine Park are also popular summer attractions.

There are many beautiful beaches to choose from to get away from the crowds, some free, some requiring a fee: Manza Beach, Moon Beach, Mission Beach and Tiger Beach to name a few.

Tiger Beach connects to Fuchaku Beach and is directly in front of Hotel Monterey Spa & Resort. It's also the base for the Tiger Beach Resort Club, which offers a variety of marine activities and wellness programs whether you are a guest or day tripper.

For easy ocean fun, their Sea Walk is a great way to introduce the underwater world. Anyone 8 years old

and up can jump into one of the suits, accompanied by an instructor, and build some confidence exploring Okinawa's marine life. The Marine Walk Tour is ¥7,000 per person.

If you prefer to stay above the water, but still get a clear view of fish and coral, the clear kayak tours have become very popular. It’s a quick three-minute boat ride from the pier to "Fish Paradise Point" where you jump into the clear kayaks and enjoy unobstructed views of the sea below. The tours are ¥5,500 for adults and ¥4,000 for anyone 13 years old and younger.

Summer evenings in Onna are fun as well. The annual Fireworks Cruise dates are set for July 23, 26 and 30 and August 2, 4, 6, 9, 11, 13, 16, 18 and 20. It’s an unforgettable way to finish the day in Okinawa. To find out about these ac tivities and more, check out Okinawa Tiger Beach Resort Club at hotelmonterey.co.jp/okinawa/activity/tigerbeach.html or call 098-993-710.

Summer Spring 2022 | 21

Sea Kayaking Iwate’s Pureland Paradise

BY QUINLAN FARIS

When a Buddhist monk visited an isolated part of the Iwate coast 350 years ago, he saw it much as it remains today, a peaceful inlet formed by towering volcanic white rocks, contrasting beautifully with the blue ocean waters and green pine groves crowning the larger of these stone islands. He was so moved that he named it Jodogahama (Pureland Beach) after the Buddhist paradise.

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oday, Jodogahama is a popular area for tourists and locals to walk along the coast enjoying the stunning rock formations. During summer, the pebble beach is packed with families swimming in the protected bay. Some spend the night in Miyako just to see the sun rise over the ocean from there. What most people don’t know is that it’s possible to go sea kayaking right here along this breathtaking coastline in the middle of the Sanriku National Park.

I’ve been living in Iwate for more than ten years, and have visited Jodogahama at least a dozen times.

It wasn’t until 2020 when I first saw a small group of kayakers set out from the Jodogahama Bay and strike north along the coast. There was no loudspeaker

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announcing their depar ture (like there are for all the normal tourist boats), no signs advertising the service— I almost wondered if it was a private club rather than a guided tour. Last summer this mystery was solved when I was introduced to the man that operates these adventure tours.

Kazumasa Suzuki is a registered guide at the Sanriku Geopark that has been leading groups on sea kayaking adventures for more than twenty years. He’s also a kayaking instructor, which is fortunate given my lack of experience. (I’m from the Midwest of the United States, and grew up canoeing in lakes, which is totally different from sea kayaking.)

After some basic instruction on how to sit properly in the kayak, and the basics of using the double-sided paddle, we set out. Just to the north of Jodogahama lies Takonohama, or literally “octopus bay,” named for the numerous little caves and tunnels that octopuses are said to favor. This bay is also mostly protected from ocean waves, so I was able to get a good sense of how to maneuver the kayak before having to deal with any turbulence from the ocean.

The Takonohama Route is what Suzuki calls “intermediate” difficulty, and I quickly found out why when he led me through a narrow tunnel in the kayak.

While it definitely wasn’t dangerous, it was already feeling like an adventure as I did my best to avoid hurting myself on the jagged tunnel walls while taking in the beauty of this natural cave. It wasn’t long before I got used to navigating these narrow waterways, though. We must have explored four or five caves— I lost count. Some had small areas of rock deep within that we could pull our kayaks upon and disembark, exploring a bit of the cavern on foot before returning the same way. Others connected back to the bay.

Our destination was Candle Rock—a protrusion of stone on a cliff face that inspired its name. In reaching this area, north of Takonohama, we crossed an area open to waves from the ocean, which might have been scary on a windier day. It was a beautiful morning though, and the waves weren’t much of a challenge. In fact, they gave me just the right amount of practice in maneuvering through ocean swells so that next time I might have the confidence to try something a bit more turbulent. Suzuki told me that we had been very lucky with the weather, as generally the ocean is a bit rougher than what we experienced. As someone new to ocean kayaking, I was grateful for this.

Summer Spring 2022 | 23

Though it felt like I’d spent all day along this picturesque stretch of coast, the entire round trip journey only took a little over an hour. (With a larger group it normally takes an hour and a half.) Apparently all those canoe trips I took during my childhood paid off, and I was able to get the hang of paddling a sea kayak in no time and keep up a good pace. There are a number of different routes along the coast that he guides, so I will definitely go again to explore further the caves and cliffs along the Sanriku Coast.

Kazumasa Suzuki operates the Sanriku Sea Kayak School Season in Miyako. He offers a family-friendly sea kayaking experience right in the Jodogahama Beach area that is ver y safe and appropriate for families with younger children. (Children as young as five-years-old can safely participate.) The standard tours are 90 minutes (¥5,500 per adult or ¥4,000 for junior high school students and younger), and a more adventurous two-hour tour for ¥6,500 per adult.

These are prices for groups of three to 20 people.

Tours operate from March through November, and prices may be slightly higher during the peak season in August. Kayaks, paddles and life preservers are included, but you’ll need to bring a few things like UV protection (hat, sunglasses, lotion, etc.), and crocs or some kind of footwear that can get wet.

Details of what to bring are listed on his website and more photos are available on his Instagram account @sanriku_seakayakschool_season.

Note: Suzuki does not speak English, so please have one Japanese-speaking member of your group to facilitate communication. For larger groups, a local interpreter may be provided to help. Learn more at www.sea-son.net (Japanese). v About the Author Quinlan Faris has been living in Japan for more than 20 years, the last 12 of them in the wilds of the north. He is based in Morioka, Iwate, where he wears a variety of hats—working as a guide, inbound tourism advisor, narrator, and video creator—all while running a small AirBnB out of the building where he lives. You’ll most likely find him up a local volcano, hiking through a storm, or foraging for wild edibles along a mountain stream to feed his Airbnb guests and entertain his YouTube subscribers. Follow his adventures on Youtube at youtube.com/c / GoNorthJapan and on Instagram @quinlan.

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HACHIMANTAI japan's must-experience powder snow

Japan gets a lot of snow, but few places get snow as light and dry as Hachimantai’s "Aspirin Powder." It’s all thanks to the uniquely dry climate of northern Tohoku far from the west coast.

• EXCELLENT POWDER SNOW • SUPERB SKI-IN/SKI-OUT RESORTS • AMAZING NATURAL ONSEN • FAMILY-FRIENDLY FUN • JUST OVER TWO HOURS FROM TOKYO

BY BULLET TRAIN TO MORIOKA, THE GATEWAY TO HACHIMANTAI

www.trip8.jp

Welcome to Hachimantai, the heart of northern Tohoku, at the foot of mighty Mt. Iwate with great powder snow and plenty of space for the whole family. There's something for everyone at Hachimantai, from insanely good tree skiing to immaculately groomed trails including some long, nearly empty beginner runs. Beyond the resorts, embark on breathtaking backcountry snow adventures with guides and snowcats. There is also a variety of luxury hotels to friendly unique lodges.

APPI: JAPAN’S BIGGEST POWDER ZONE!

Appi Snow Mountain Resort is a world-class ski resort and arguably Japan's largest resort. Powder snow season starts in the middle of December and lasts till the end of March. Appi offers 75 hectares of fantastic Tree Run Zones plus 50 hectares of ungroomed runs, boasting the most "Japow" terrain in Japan.

Make sure you have the best gear to rock the terrain and snow at the Salomon Station Rental. Powder skis and boards and family and beginner-friendly gear are available. Book ahead online to avoid wasting time on arrival.

PANORAMA & SHIMOKURA: Family POWDER Fun

Hachimantai Resort Panorama & Shimokura is a great place for both families and powder hounds.

At Panorama, go banana-boat sledding, ride mini snowmobiles and toboggans. The best part? It's all right outside the Mountain Resort & Spa Hotel.

Or head to Shimokura for epic powder riding. There are also wide beginner slopes up to nearly three kilometers long.

Don’t miss the scenic snowshoe tour through the forest to the massive 30-meter-high frozen Nanataki Falls.

Hachimantai specialists for accommodation, lift coupons, transportation, tours and more.

INQUIRE AHEAD FOR THE 2022-23 WINTER SEASON! Summer 2022 | 25

Summertime Fun in Shiga Kogen

BY DANIEL MOORE

Joshinetsu National Park, which includes Shiga Kogen, is located in Honshu’s rugged mountainous interior. Signs of human activity quickly disappear just a few steps off the path in this pristine natural setting where wildlife encounters are common in green season. It’s famously home to an adorable group of onsen-lounging snow monkeys as well as one of Japan’s classic ski resorts. Yet when the temperatures rise in summer, the Shiga Kogen highlands are the perfect place for a refreshing escape.

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he mountains in the popular Shiga Kogen Ski Area range from 1,300 to over 2,300 meters.

This ensures great conditions when other resorts further down in the valley are struggling with lack of snow or warmer temperatures. The high altitude also makes the area a great place to beat the heat in summer while exploring a wide network of hiking trails. There are stunning alpine drives, traditional inns with soothing hot springs and outdoor fun and adventure for the whole family.

Lake Onuma and Akaishiyama Hiking The four-kilometer hike from the trailhead to the teal blue Lake Onuma is a medium-level hike that takes two to three hours. Starting from Onuma Iriguchi Bus Stop, follow the gradually ascending gravel road through the native birch forest. There are benches and an open area at the lake to enjoy a snack or picnic lunch. Toilets are available in mid-summer only. Continuing fur ther around the lake's edge, there is an iconic Shinto torii gate reminiscent of the Itsukushima Shrine in Hiroshima. The blue volcanic lake contrasted against the bright red torii gate makes a perfect photo spot.

For a more challenging hike, follow signs towards Akaishiyama. This hike is another two kilometers up a steep winding trail with some rocky spots. Hiking gear such as boots and poles are recommended.

The reward at the top is worth it, though. The views of Lake Onuma below and the might y Nor thern Japanese Alps in the distance are unforgettable.

For an easier alternative, tr y the Ike Meguri course. Beginning near the Yokoteyama Ski Area, take the Maeyama summer lift to the summit. From here, a short walk takes you to Shibu Ike (Shibu Pond). Then, it is less than an hour to the Shijuhachiike Marshland via a well-maintained trail. There is a covered seating area and toilet at the Shijuhachiike Marshland. The trail continues to Lake Onuma, where you can catch a bus, though infrequent. You can return the way you came back to Maeyama or take another loop, climbing Mt. Shiga.

Web Connection • go-nagano.net/en/topics_detail6/id=12297 • shigakogen.co.jp/highlight/ikemeguri • snowmonkeyresorts.com/access/nagaden-shigakogen-express-bus-timetable/

26 | TRAVELER

Scenic Drives If you want to explore Joshinetsu National Park's vast terrain, a drive from Shiga Kogen to Kusatsu Onsen or Manza Onsen passes the highest point in Japan's national highway system. At 2,172 meters, the mountainous scenery and occasionally visible sea of clouds phenomenon seem endless. The contrast between the lush forests of Shiga Kogen to the otherworldly landscape of Mt. Shirane, an active volcano, is stark. Close the window though, as Mt. Shirane spews pungent sulfur. After the scenic drive, stay the night and enjoy some of the hot springs in Kusatsu or Manza Onsen. Consider looping around Takayama Village for another fun road trip with great views.

For the bes t lookout, take the Yokoteyama Skylator to Tenma View Terrace. There is nothing better than sipping a hot beverage and eating a crumpet from High Mountain Coffee while soaking in the view. For a heartier meal, visit the Yokoteyama Drive-in or 2307 Cafe. Try the mackerel miso soup, pizza or rice bowls featuring a locally foraged bamboo called nemagaridake. Canned bamboo is available for purchase to take home as a souvenir.

A l te r na t i ve l y, d r i ve f r o m O k u s hig a Ko g e n towards Nozawa Onsen or Akiyamago. Akiyamago, in particular, is one of the most remote villages in Japan, with only 200 residents and bear hunters still practicing ancient matagi hunting techniques.

Kiriake Onsen is a unique experience where hot spring lovers can dig their own bath, mixing cold river water with the hot spring. Nearby, Yusenkaku is a rustic ryokan experience with hot meals and onsen.

Hammocks on the outdoor deck and Yusenkaku's hot spring baths make for a chilled-out stay in the mountains.

Web Connection • yokoteyama2307.com • go-nagano.net/en/theme/id=19888 • yusenkaku.yadoroku.jp

Shiga Kogen Adventures Shiga Kogen Mountain Discovery has stand-up paddle boarding, canyoning, and cycling experiences.

Yutaro Yumoto is a resident rafting guide who has brought his adventure travel experience to the area in order to offer more outdoor adventures to visitors.

There are family-friendly experiences, as well as more advanced options. After a tour, relax at Shiga Kogen Mountain Discovery's office on the edge of Biwa Pond. If you still have energy, walk around the pond or go for a swim in the crystal clear water.

Okushiga Kogen Hotel offers activities such as fishing, cycling, trekking, and disc golf. The Grand Phoenix and Okushiga Kogen hotels provide the highest-end hotels in Shiga Kogen.

Web Connection • shigakogen-md.com • en.okushiga.jp/green/ • hotelgrandphenix.co.jp/en/

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Local Spotlight: Shiho Nakamura Shiho Nakamura grew up in Shiga Kogen where her family owns and operates Sachinoyu Hotel near the Kumanoyu Ski Area. Sachinoyu has a warm, familyrun feel, with comfy Japanese-style rooms and homecooked meals. In summer, local ski prodigies (including Nakamura's children) come to train in Sachinoyu's fitness facilities. Nakamura herself spent her high school years training in Vermont with plans to become a professional skier. She veered off course and instead returned to Japan and worked for Goldman Sachs in Tokyo.

After more than a decade in Tokyo, she yearned to return to the Shiga Kogen area and have a positive impact on her local community in rural Nagano. She first started Spark Outlands with a mission to help revitalize the Yamanouchi area. Among her other ventures, she manages the Shiga Kogen Yamanoeki gift shop while her husband runs the Hiroen coworking space in the same building. Nakamura and her female employee Haruhi bring a breath of fresh air and much-needed female perspective to Shiga Kogen's conservative traditional culture.

Web Connection • sparkoutlands.com • hiroen-shigakogen.com/co-working-space/ sachinoyu.com/english • shigakogen.co.jp/facilities/yamanoeki_summer v

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肘 折A Mountain Town 温Frozen in Time 泉

BY DEREK YAMASHITA

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Hidden away in the mountains of Yamagata is a hot spring town where traditional ryokan are surrounded by forests. Visitors come to Hijiori Onsen to enjoy the famous hot springs, exceptional farmfresh Japanese cuisine, and a romantic stay at one of the many familyoperated inns. The town feels pleasantly lost in time far away from the bright lights of the city.

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f the thousands of hot spring towns and villages throughout Japan, few feel quite so remote as Hijiori Onsen. Buried in the mountainous hinterlands of Okura-mura, this local hot spring resort resides in the heart of a volcanic caldera, from which mineral-rich waters feed the innumerable bathhouses and onsen ryokan dotted throughout the tiny hamlet.

Hijiori Onsen is locally famous for the legendary— and often-thought miraculous—healing waters. Few travelers outside Japan have wandered these streets, while town folk rarely travel beyond the mountains that surround this valley. Yet the residents, nearly all descendants of the original founders dating back to the Edo Period, are eager to share their secrets with far-flung visitors willing to make the trip.

A journey to Hijiori Onsen, and the ancient forests that surround it, conjures a sense of having wandered into a community lost in time. Aside from modern amenities, Hijiori Onsen retains much of its 17thcentury Edo-era rustic elegance. The same twentysix founding families operate all the ryokan and shops in town, and that sense of community handed down through generations still permeates daily life here.

The Legend of Hijiori Onsen Legend has it, a Buddhist mountain ascetic took a deadly fall from a nearby peak 1,200 years ago. On the way down, he broke his elbow, but also happened to tumble into one of the warm natural pools bubbling up around the Dozan River. As the story goes, his wounds were instantaneously healed by the waters.

Ever since that fateful day, Hijiori Onsen has become, not only a site for wounded patrons seeking respite for their various ailments, but also a holy pilgrimage for worshippers of the venerable Jizosama—that revered monk’s cherished bodhisattva.

Farm-to-Table Cuisine While many visitors continue to seek out the promise of healing from Hijiori Onsen, countless more simply enjoy the naturally therapeutic and relaxing effects of hot spring bathing, as well as the opportunity to experience ometenashi, the best of Japanese hospitality at a local ryokan. And as with any ryokan stay, excellent kaiseki ryori—traditional Japanese cuisine—can be expected as part of the stay.

L o c al f a r m s a n d a my r ia d of w il d f o r a g e d delicacies provide the basis for exceptional dining at whatever hotel you choose, and every morning vendors line the main street of town, selling a variety of produce, mountain vegetables and homemade goods. One unique aspect of Hijiori Onsen is several ryokan even allow customers to use their kitchen to prepare foods purchased from the market.

A cer tain unhurried air permeates the town, which is perfect for leisurely strolls around the narrow streets or along the banks of the Dozan River. Yet more active-minded visitors will find plenty of things to do here as well. Hike to a sacred mountain shrine, explore country roads ideal for cycling or enjoy a variety of local experiences with the town residents

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ESSENTIAL INFO

When to Go Hijiori Onsen can be enjoyed year-round and the extreme variations in weather throughout the seasons provide different backdrops for travelers. In particular, summer and winter each bring unique splendor to this quiet hot spring town. The town often experiences some of the heaviest daily snowfall in all of Japan and the winter view of Hijiori Onsen is truly a sight to see with massive walls of snow over five meters high not uncommon. Alternatively, the deep green backdrop of summer in the lush mountains is perfect for outdoor activities and a bounty of mountain vegetables and locally grown crops to enjoy.

Getting There Hijiori Onsen can be reached entirely via public transportation from Tokyo Station. Travelers will first take the Yamagata Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Shinjo Station (3.5 hours) and then board a bus at Shinjo Station directly to Hijiori Onsen (60 minutes, ¥600). The journey can be split up with a stay in Yamagata City or Murayama, which are both along the Yamagata Shinkansen route. Keep in mind the JR East Pass (Tohoku Area) can be used for the Shinkansen fare.

Web Connection Reservations for the ryokan in Hijioiri Onsen can be made at hijiori.jp/en/lodging and further details on experiences, festivals and other tourist info can be also found at hijiori.jp/en. v About the Author After college, Derek Yamashita followed his passion to connect with his Japanese-American roots by starting a life deep in the countryside of Yamagata Prefecture. Here he found joy in the trails, cycling courses, fishing and all that the countryside had to offer. In 2017 Derek co-founded The Hidden Japan, a boutique travel company promoting deeper Japan travel beyond the big cities. He works closely with rural communities to create custom tours for travelers to experience Japan alongside locals. Find out more at thehiddenjapan.com.

30 | TRAVELER

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