Outdoor Japan Traveler | Issue 81 | Winter 2022

2 | TRAVELER

ISSUE 81

WINTER 2022

14

INDY PASS

THE RESISTANCE INSIDE

7

12

17

19

36

38

Onbashira Matsuri

Japan Snow Guide 2022

Go Deep into Shinano

Winter MTB on Izu's Ancient Paths

Hachimantai's Powder History

Cycling Ancient Roads from Kyoto to the Sea

From the Editor. . . . . . . . . . 5

Protecting Japan's POW . . . 11

Market Watch. . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Beyond the Brand . . . . . . . 33

Winter News & Notes. . . . . 8

Winter 2022 | 3

4 | TRAVELER

F r om t h eEdi t o r

Published Seasonally

T

he summer before the world closed down, I was enjoying a a pint at the Lucky Lab in southwest Portland with Eric Lee O’Brien, pro free skier, founder of Snowledge— and all-around good guy. Little did I know it would be several years before I’d have the chance to return to my hometown. Eric brought up Indy Pass, and founder Doug Fish who lived nearby, and talked about getting the fledgling pass over to Japan. At the time big corporate entities—backed by hedge funds and private equity—were gobbling up resorts all over the U.S. and Canada, consolidating, homogenizing and arguably sucking the soul out of ski destinations. Indy Pass was classic David vs. Goliath and I love a good underdog story.

Doug galvanized small to mid-sized resorts to unite under a common pass, giving people an affordable alternative to IKON and Epic passes—one that spread the wealth and helped keep local resorts local. He half-jokingly called it “The Resistance.”

PUBLISHER Outdoor Japan G.K.

The spirit of Indy Pass hit home. I’ve lived in Nozawa Onsen for the last decade; it’s where both my sons have grown up. I first came to Nozawa Onsen 24 years ago to snowboard, back when half of the Yamabiko Course was still skiers-only. Anyone one who’s visited Nozawa knows the heart and soul of the village are the villagers. Neighbors work together to clear snow, clean the onsen, temples and shrines and set up for festivals. For the most part, bad seeds get tossed out. I love the fact that this spirit has spread through most of the foreign community who respect this balance and support the village. Young people—Japanese and non-Japanese—have put sweat and love into starting small businesses, adding to the fabric of the community. Recently, however, there have been not-so-subtle signs the village needs to remain vigilant. Faceless foreign investment has increased and locals are having trouble finding homes because real estate companies outside the village are reportedly selling information to investors before they hit the market—buying low and flipping high rather than letting the market dictate what locals should get for their property. The heart and soul of the village are at stake and the locals and foreign residents who care about the village are the resistance.

MEDIA PRODUCER / EDITOR Rie Miyoshi

Mountains, trees and fire seem to be a recurring theme for my time in Japan. When I first moved here in the summer of ’97, I spent the first few months in Kyoto. Sitting on the bank of the Kamogawa and seeing the iconic “dai” kanji enflamed on the side of Mt. Daimonji is still branded in my mind. I worked in Demachiyanagi, at the confluence of the Kamo and Takano rivers. You catch the Eizan Kurama Line here to the mountain village that holds the Kurama Hi-matsuri (fire festival) each October. This sacred festival welcomes the gods of the shrine to the village and begins at sunset with small children ceremoniously carrying small torches.

Teenagers follow, then the men carrying massive torches—some weighing as much as 80 kilograms. The annual parade of fire concludes with a massive bonfire around midnight.

Two decades later, my children would participate in a similar rite of passage—the Dosojin Matsuri—in another mountain village many kilometers away in Nozawa Onsen. Dosojin also involves children carrying torches, then ceremoniously attacking a wooden shrine built of logs carried down from the mountain each fall. Things also escalate into frenzy of fire as the men of the village, emboldened by Mizuo (the local fire water), attack with a fury as groups of young men valiantly protect the shrine until it inevitably goes up in flames. Dosojin was canceled last year and this year’s festival will be a villagers-only affair.

I left Kyoto before the winter of ’98 and moved to Shimosuwa, a town on the north end of Lake Suwa. My house was just up the road from Akimiya, one of the four sacred shrines of Suwa Taisha and part of the Onbashira Matsuri, a sacred festival that takes place once every six years (the years of the Tiger and Monkey). Unwittingly, I arrived just before this ancient ritual that also begins with trees brought down a mountain—some dragged down steep hills, others carried across icy rivers. It’s a spectacular and dangerous affair that culminates with four great trees erected in the four corners of each shrine. The Year of the Tiger returns in 2022 and Onbashira is back. Find out more on Page 7 as well as other events, ski deals and our annual Japan Snow Guide. Every season is a new adventure in Japan—get out there this winter!

DIRECTORS Mike Harris, Charles Odlin, Gardner Robinson FOUNDER / EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Gardner Robinson

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Bill Ross CONTRIBUTORS Joan Bailey, Brad Bennett, Kohei Nishida DESIGN Outdoor Japan

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Cover Photo: Shimokura Hachimantai Resort

Winter 2022 | 5

MARKET WATCH

BY JOAN BAILEY

A

fter more than 300 years, Kanazawa’s Omicho Market remains one of the best places for a taste of the surrounding land and sea. Fishmongers, of which there are many, tout an assortment of crabs, shrimp, and nodoguro (rosy seabass), the quintessential fish for this region, along with fresh or dried hotaruika (firefly squid), another local delicacy.

Oysters, large and fresh, also abound, and visitors stand and slurp them with gusto or savor them over steamy bowls of rice.

Omicho’s warren of lanes is worth a stroll for the variety of oden, another local mainstay, udon, or sushi and sashimi eateries. However, fruits, vegetables, and sweets have their place, too. One of the best shops for a broad selection of local and heirloom varieties is Kitagawa Vegetables. A market mainstay for 70 years, their tightly packed, colorful display includes an assortment of pickles, four kinds of eggplant, round and oblong daikon, fresh wasabi, mushrooms, and a fine selection of local greens, including kinjiso, an heirloom variety with sturdy green and purple leaves perfect for salad, soup, or a quick sauté.

Shigeyoshi Yoneda of Kaiso Life stands behind his table bedecked with a variety of dried seaweeds and fish as he has for the last twenty years. Myriad c o m b i n a t i o n s o f e v e r y t h i n g f ro m a snack to go with beer or sake to savory mekabucha (mekabu tea) are available.

Harvested from just above the root of the wakame seaweed stalk, mekabu’s crinkly look is also a delightful addition to soups and salads.

Slightly less healthy, but no less delicious, are the fried delights found at Agemaruten Kasai. Their selection of ground fish patties offer a delectable blend of local vegetables, fish, and seasonality and are made on the spot.

Autumn features patties containing lotus root and sweet potato, while spring and summer bring the vibrant greens of nanohana and komatsuna. Look for the line of visitors awaiting their fried blowfish, a Kanazawa specialty.

6 | TRAVELER

Omicho Market

Those with a sweet tooth should head directly to Okunokashiho, which offers a variety of traditional sweets such as daifuku mochi, youkan, and manju. The two most unique, though, are the ikaga and abekawa mochis. Ikaga mochi features sweet bean paste surrounded by a layer of smooth mochi studded with bright yellow mochi rice. A wedding standard, it’s also a cheerful companion for a cup of coffee or tea. The abekawa are squares of mochi rice smothered in green kinako (roasted soy bean powder). In business for over 100 years, and at Omicho for more than 70, Okunokashiho is a sure bet.

Omicho Market Kanazawa, Ishikawa Everyday: 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Onbashira Matsuri

BY GARDNER ROBINSON

T

he Year of the Tiger roars back in 2022 and so does Onbashira Matsuri. This ancient festival, dating back more than 1,200 years, once again takes place in the communities around Lake Suwa in southern Nagano.

The Onbashira Matsuri is not only one of Japan’s oldest festivals, it is also one of the most dangerous.

The matsuri is actually an elaborate Shinto ritual that plays out in the mountains, forests and rivers around Lake Suwa to replace four sacred pillars at each of the four shrines that comprise the Suwa Taisha (Suwa Grand Shrine). It all unfolds over two months in spring, once every six years on the Year of the Tiger and the Year of the Monkey.

Suwa Taisha is one of Japan’s oldest shrines and the birthplace—and headquarters—of the 10,000 Suwa shrines dotted around Japan. Villagers prepare for Onbashira by selecting sixteen enormous fir trees to become the sacred pillars (one in each corner of each shrine). Only those that are more than 150 years old and 17 meters tall are worthy of the honor.

Onbashira’s reputation as one of Japan’s most dangerous festivals is due to the number of locals that have died during the yamadashi (coming out of the mountains) ritual, where trees weighing as much as twelve tons are dragged down mountains, then ridden down steep 27-degree slopes in a show of courage. They are then carried across the frigid Miyagawa River where the logs are ceremoniously washed by the snow-fed waters that can drop to single digits. While the satobiki (pillar raising) ritual, held a month later, is less adrenaline-fueled, it is no less spectacular—or dangerous. Participants have also died while falling from atop the logs while they are paraded through the town or erected at the shrines.

There is no shortage of pageantry as beautiful horses prance, hanagasa dances are performed, the unforgettable high pitched Onbashira songs sung throughout, and countless traditions passed down from generation to generation take place while townspeople enjoy the street party they’ve meticulously prepared for leading up to the festivities.

As the festivities take place over many weeks, there is plenty of time for visitors to explore the surrounding area. It is a great cycling region

highlighted by the 70-kilometer Venus Line that goes from Shimosuwa up to Kirigamine, the Kurumayama Plateau, Lake Shirakaba and then on to the tourist area of Tateshina before dropping down into Chino and looping back to Lake Suwa. The area is famous for miso and sake, so try to include a stop at Masumi, a well-known sake brewer on the northeast side of the lake between Kamisuwa and Shimosuwa.

If you are lucky, long-term resident and international sales director, Keith Norum, will be in to share his extensive knowledge of their sake and the brewing process.

Lake Suwa is an onsen destination blessed with many hot springs and hot spring inns. There are footpaths and public baths including the Katakurakan's famous "Sennin-buro" (thousand person hot spring), which is Japan's oldest recreational onsen and designated as an important cultural property.

By car it takes about two hours and 30 minutes from Tokyo (Shinjuku) to the Suwa I.C. or two hours and 40 minutes from Nagoya to the Suwa I.C. on the Chuo Expressway. By train, it's two hours and 35 minutes on the Super Azusa from Shinjuku Station to Kami-Suwa Staton (there are no shinkansen) or two hours and 40 minutes on the Shinano Limited Express from Nagoya. Shinshu Matsumoto Airport also has flights from Sapporo (90 minutes) or Fukuoka (two hours and 50 minutes). Matsumoto is about 30 minutes from Lake Suwa by car or train.

When: Yamadashi: Apr. 2-4, 8-10; Satobiki: May 3-5, 14-16 Where: Suwa, Shimosuwa and Chino, Nagano Web: onbashira.jp

Winter 2022 | 7

JAPAN SNOW GUIDE 2022

Ride in luxury at Niseko Hanazono Resort’s shiny new Hanazono Lift 1, a six-seat hooded chairlift, or the tenperson Hanazono Symphony Gondola which travels at an industry-leading six meters per second. The 1,362-meterlong gondola will provide access to Hanazono’s Juicy Fruit beginner terrain via a new mid-station. Intermediate and advanced skiers can enjoy Colly’s Folly, a new run from the top station. This 550-meter course is located on the east side of the famous Legend of Shinya ski course.

The new lifts will also run in the green season to service Hanazono’s new zipline network opening June 2022, and a light exhibition.

Where: Niseko, Hokkaido hanazononiseko.com The all-inclusive Rusutsu Resort offers several fun activities and events throughout the season: the Powder Snowshoe Run (Jan. 23, Feb. 27) and the Snow Trail Run (Mar. 20). Guests can also enjoy the Kamakura BBQ using local vegetables and lamb, an outdoor sauna and live jazz back at the hotel.

Where: Rusutsu, Hokkaido rusutsu.com The annual Chitose Lake Shikotsu Ice Festival returns this winter to transform Lake Shikotsu into a frozen kingdom. The lake’s water is used to create massive ice sculptures which are illuminated at night.

Sapporo Snow Festival

8 | TRAVELER

You can also enjoy other wintry activities such as careening down an ice slide, gliding across an ice rink, horseback riding, hopping into a nearby hot spring and enjoying warm local delicacies like oden, soba and udon.

Admission fee is ¥500.

When: Jan. 29-Feb. 23; 16:30-20:00 hyoutou-special.asia Plan your winter Hokkaido trip a ro u n d t h e 2 0 2 2 S a p p o ro S n o w Festival, one of the most impressive ice sculpture festivals in the world.

Odori-koen, Sapporo’s Central Park, is filled with creative sculptures during the event and resorts such as Sapporo Kokusai and Teine are nearby.

When: Feb. 4-11 Where: Odori-koen, Sapporo, Hokkaido www.snowfes.com The Otaru Snow Light Path Festival is held every February in Otaru, a charming port town in Hokkaido.

Enjoy a night stroll as the Unga Kaijo and Temiyasen Kaijo areas are lit up by lanterns.

When: Feb. 5-12; 17:00-21:00 Where: Otaru, Hokkaido yukiakarinomichi.org

Niseko Shootout Film Festival Photo by Niseko Promotion Board

Evergreen Backcountry Guides

News&Notes

Join the Niseko Shootout and Film Festival, a season-long photo and video contest to win exciting snow season prizes including Roko skis, Gentemstick snowboards, cat tours, action cameras and more. Tag #NisekoShootout for your chance to win. Photos and videos will be featured at the film festival at the end of the season.

When: Until Mar. 12 Where: Niseko, Hokkaido nisekotourism.com Ani Ski Resort is targeting young adults this season. 19-year-olds ride free and 20-year-olds receive a lift pass discount. The resort is located on Mt. Moriyoshi. This northern Akita resort is uncrowded yet offers special features like powder tree skiing, juhyou "snow monsters," and a resident Akita dog, Hokuto.

Where: Ani, Akita aniski.jp

Otaru Snow Light Path Festival Photo by Niseko Promotion Board

Lake Shikotsu Ice Festival Photo by Niseko Promotion Board

A p p i K o g e n , o n e o f To h o k u ’s biggest ski resorts welcomes ANA InterContinental Appi Kogen Resort this January. This international luxury hotel features 38 guest rooms overlooking the slopes. There is an onsite restaurant and onsen as well.

Where: Appi Kogen, Iwate ihg.com/intercontinental Geto Kogen was the first ski resort to open the whole resort this season, boasting the highest snowfall in November. This year their popular tree run will be expanded to 14 areas.

Where: Kitakami, Iwate getokogen.com Lotte Arai Resort is the first ski resort in Japan to introduce O'Bellx, devices used to trigger avalanches r e m o t e l y. I n s t e a d o f r e l y i n g o n employees to deploy explosives from a helicopter, these devices help take down treacherous snow and ice and improve staff safety. A spark sets off the mixture of hydrogen and oxygen, producing an explosion that releases snow.

The resort will also host several events such as Children’s Day when elementary school students ride free (Feb. 20, Mar. 20, Apr. 17, May 15). It will also host the Arai Championship in three parts (powder race, freestyle and banked slalom), the season's third Freeride World Qualifier Japan series and the FIS Cup (ski jump).

Where: Arai, Niigata lottehotel.com/arai-resort Snow and surf brand Quiksilver presents Mountain Wave Park at Kandatsu Snow Resort, a snow park on the slopes. Check out their website for upcoming events.

Where: Yuzawa, Niigata kandatsu.com

Enjoy fireworks over the snow at Kagura Snow Resort. Mitsumata Lift Station and Tashiro Station will each hold two fireworks celebrations.

When: Feb. 19, Mar. 12 (Tashiro) and Feb. 26-27 (Mitsumata) Where: Yuzawa, Niigata princehotels.co.jp/ski/kagura Unlock the backcountry with Freeride Japan, avalanche training and guided tours to safely grow your backcountry skills. Join the only AST 1 course with online training (and two full days in the backcountry) in Japan.

Check website for course dates and upto-date details.

Where: Niigata & Nagano freeride-japan.com The 1,289-meter-high Hakuba Iwatake Snow Field will be expanding their powder area by removing the old Hikage and Line 6 lifts. The park from last year will be set up permanently on the south slope offering spectacular views of the mountain range. Enjoy kickers, waves, rails and boxes.

For those wanting to enjoy winter without riding, Iwatake White Park is a designated area on top of the mountain for families and pets. Take photos in kamakura igloos, let your dogs run around the pet zone and enjoy snowshoeing.

Chavaty Hakuba will also be opened at the Hakuba Hitotoki-no-mori Observation Area and will be offering warm tea lattes and scones.

Where: Hakuba, Nagano iwatake-mountain-resort.com Evergreen Outdoor Center offers four-night, five-day winter camps for children. These camps provide experiential learning for children in Hakuba's winterscape with native English-speaking leaders. Activities include snowshoeing, ski lessons, mountain awareness and winter sustainability lessons, igloo building, tobogganing, campfires, a pizza party and more.

When: Dec. 1 - Apr. 20 Where: Hakuba, Nagano evergreen-hakuba.com

Freeride Japan

Sign up for avalanche safety training courses certified by Avalanche Canada with Evergreen Backcountry Guides.

AST 1 and 2 courses are available in Hakuba. The two-day AST 1 course, plus a one-day CRS (Companion Rescue Skills) course are a must for backcountry enthusiasts and anyone who enjoys recreational activities as it teaches lifesaving search and rescue techniques.

Check the website for dates.

When: Dec. 17 - Mar. 9 Where: Hakuba, Nagano evergreen-backcountry.com Check out the latest ski, snowboard, surf and skateboard gear and wear at Interstyle, Japan's biggest snow, ski and surf trade show of its kind.

When: Feb. 15-17 Where: Yokohama, Kanagawa interstyle.jp

Mountain Wave Park

Hakuba Iwatake Snow Field

Winter 2022 | 9

Mt. Shinyu

Freeride World Tour Japan Photo by D. Daher

The Freeride World Tour Japan series return this season starting at Hakuba on Jan. 17-20, Maiko Snow Resort on Jan. 29-30, Lotte Arai Resort on Feb. 28 - Mar. 2 and Appi Kogen on Mar. 5-6.

When: Jan. 17 - Mar. 6 freerideworldtour.jp

10 | TRAVELER

Osorakan Snow Park in Hiroshima attracts skiers and snowboarders from Kansai, Kyushu and Shikoku. The northwestern region of Hiroshima is also famous for its oni (Japanese mythical beasts) folklore. Every year on Setsubun (the day before the beginning of spring), people dress up as oni and ski down while kids aim snowballs at them (and win coupons and special prizes).

While this area may not get as much snow as up north, it does get decent snowfall once or twice a year. Serious riders can get some powder riding in if they hike up to the top of Mt. Osorakan (Hiroshima’s highest peak). The nearby Mt. Shinyu is also a popular backcountry spot.

When: Feb. 5 Where: Akiota, Hiroshima osorakan.co.jp Take advantage of Earth Hopper, a season pass valid for 30 popular ski resorts throughout Japan. The Earth Hopper Snow Lite pass costs ¥29,800 and the Earth Hopper Snow Pass is ¥57,000, which also includes high quality ski rentals at 15 select rental shops. The passes can be redeemed for two day passes at each participating ski resort, so up to 60 passes total— meaning you’ll get your money's worth if you use the Earth Hopper pass six times. Participating resorts include Kamui Ski Links, Sapporo Kokusai, Kiroro Snow World, Niseko Annupuri, Appi Kogen, Hachimantai Panorama, Shimokura, Geto Kogen, Akakura Kanko, Lotte Arai, Madarao Kogen, Tsugaike Kogen, Hakuba 47 and more. hopper.earth v

FIRST TRACKS

Score the first lines of the day at these resorts this season!

Where: Niseko Village New Year Sunrise Gondola When: Jan. 1; 6-7:30 a.m.

Price: ¥1,400 Where: Niseko Annupuri Gondola When: Jan. 1-3, 8-10; 7-8:30 a.m.

Price: ¥1,000 Where: Rusutsu Resort When: Every Sunday in Jan. and Feb.; 8:15 a.m.

Price: ¥2,200 Where: Arai Lotte New Year Sunrise Gondola When: Jan. 1; 6:30 a.m.

Price: ¥1,500 Where: Kawaba Ski Resort When: Reservation only; 7 a.m. on weekends and 7:30 on weekdays Price: ¥2,000 (includes breakfast) Where: Naeba Ski Resort When: Jan. 1, every Sunday between Jan. 2 - Mar. 13; 8 a.m.

Price: ¥1,200 Where: Kagura Ski Resort When: Every Sunday between Dec. 19 to May 1, Dec. 31 - Jan. 1, 10, Feb. 12, Mar. 20-21, Apr. 30, May 2-5; 30 min. before regular hours Price: Included with lift day pass Where: Yakebitaiyama When: Dec. 29-31, every Saturday between Jan. 2 - Mar. 27, Jan. 3, 10, Feb. 11, Mar. 21; 7:50 a.m.

Price: ¥1,500 Where: Myoko Suginohara When: Jan. 16, Feb. 13, 7:30 a.m.

Price: ¥1,000

ACTIVISM

Photo by Hakuba Iwatake Snow Field

P R OT E CT I N G JAPAN 'S PO W

BY RIE MIYOSHI

J

apan's ski resorts experienced record-low snowfall and higherthan-average temperatures during the 2015-16 season. Hakuba's (321 centimeters) was well below their 11-meter average and 80-year-old locals had never seen such little snowfall.

For Hakuba-based snowboarder and environmentalist Goro Komatsu, it was a wake-up call.

Born and raised in Niseko, Hokkaido, Komatsu started skiing when he was four years old. In the late '80s, the 12-year-old followed his father to Whistler, Canada where he was first introduced to snowboarding.

"Snowboarding had yet to come to Japan, so it was my first time seeing p e o p l e s n o w b o a rd , " re m e m b e r s Komatsu. "I was already skateboarding, so it was a pretty quick transition."

Three years later Komatsu was riding professionally. He made friends with indigenous people in Canada and listened to their stories, particularly about land preservation. One person in particular was campaigning against ski resort development infringing on indigenous land.

"Their land is technically protected under federal law, but the organizations and companies trying to make new resorts are working under province-level rules, so there are loopholes. There are many environmental issues as a result of mass development. The country w a n t s m o re , n e w e r re s o r t s , e v e n today," says Komatsu. "I always thought having new ski resorts would be fun, but I was shocked to learn about the

environmental costs, and I wanted to protect the mountains more."

Komatsu has now been an advocate for nature conservation for more than two decades and regularly speaks and writes about environmentalism. He moved back to Japan, choosing to live in Omachi, near Hakuba, where he has been based for the past 16 years with his wife and three children. Apart from riding professionally, he also builds snow parks, is a judge on Freeride World Tour Hakuba and hosts events for yuki-ita (handmade bindingless snowboards).

"I always wanted to ride the mountains in Nagano," recalls Komatsu.

"Nagano's mountains are gnarly—really steep and pretty dangerous. I wanted to ride here while still in my 30s and 40s...maybe when I'm in my 50s I'll move back to Hokkaido,” he laughs.

In 2018, he launched the Japan chapter of Protect our Winters, a nonprofit organization founded by Jeremy Jones focused on climate change legislation. During Japan's bubble economy in the '80s, numerous ski resorts popped up around the country.

In recent years, climate change and people flocking to bigger ski resorts have forced many smaller resorts to shut down while some existing resorts still operate the same way they did 40 years ago.

Compared to his neighbors, Komatsu has lived in the Hakuba area for a relatively short time, but he’s already seen the impacts of climate change.

"My kids learned to ice skate on this outdoor skating rink nearby, but the last few years it's been too warm," says Komatsu. "I also heard people went ice fishing back in the ‘70s at a lake nearby, but the lake doesn't ice over anymore."

Protect our Winters Japan works in three phases. The first is awareness about what they do and why preserving the environment is important.They have more than twenty pro skiers and snowboarders as ambassadors and people can donate to the non-profit directly through their website.

The second step is education. POW Japan holds workshops and classes at local schools, businesses and ski resorts to educate the public on what they can do to help.

"We try to make the workshops fun, but it honestly involves sharing a lot of data, so I thought school kids wouldn't be too interested in it," says Komatsu.

"I was surprised they were so attentive; I think it's because they know it's going to affect their future directly.

The third step is taking action.

Currently, POW Japan helps ski resorts, mainly in Hakuba, to operate more sustainably. Some of these resorts are running 30% on renewable energy.

Hakuba Iwatake Snow Field is aiming for a 100% sustainably run park using renewable energy. They don't have vending machines; instead they encourage people to bring their own water bottles.

"As snowboarders and skiers, we all know—and take for granted—what we do is possible because of nature," says Komatsu. "I want us to keep enjoying nature and do what needs to be done to protect our winters."

Winter 2022 | 11

GO DEEP INTO

Shinano WITH KOHEI NISHIDA

I

t ’s b e e n s e v e n w i n t e r s s i n c e I moved to the snowy Nagano town of Shinano-machi. I am no longer surprised by water pipes freezing or more than a meter of snow piling up overnight. As soon as I step out of my front door, I strap on my splitboard, climb up the mountain behind my house which is about a 200-meter ascent, enjoy a cup of coffee at the top and then ride all the way down to my front door, enjoying the life that only snow country can offer.

Shinano Town is located in the mountains of northern Shinano, where man y v olc anoes a nd no nv o l c a ni c mountains stand side by side such as Mt. Kurohime, Mt. Togakushi and Mt. Madarao, as well as one of Japan's 100 most famous mountains—Mt. Myoko.

Tangram Ski Circus

12 | TRAVELER

Shinano Town has two ski resorts, Kurohime Kogen Snow Park to the west and Tangram Ski Circus to the east across Lake Nojiri. Outside of Shinano Town, there are several major resorts all within a 30-minute drive, including all of Mt. Myoko’s resorts, Togakushi Ski Resort and Iizuna Ski Resort.

Tangram Ski Circus may not be big, but what it lacks in size, it makes up for in excellent powder riding, making it one of my personal favorites in this region. It is located on the northwest slope of Mt. Madarao and offers fun tree run areas and, best of all, it’s rarely crowded. Riders can purchase the Madarao Kogen and Tangram Ski Circus combo lift pass, which lets you ride at both resorts. Learn more at tangram.jp/eng.

Backcountry skiing at Mt. Madarao

Of course, resorts are not the only places where you can ski. From winter to early spring, there is a wide variety of backcountry areas for beginner riders to experts. Recommended backcountry areas include Mt. Myoko’s outer rim, accessible by lifts, Mount Kurohime and Mount Madarao.

If you’re looking for a less extreme, but equally invigorating adventure, jump on a snowshoe tour.

As a snowshoe and forest therapy guide, I enjoy taking guests to Togakushi. The sacred forest around the inner shrine of Togakushi Shrine is one of the most popular places for snowshoeing, as this flat forest is dotted with giant oak, birch and beech trees. The main attraction is the picturesque snow-covered rows

Snowshoe hiking on Kagami-ike Pond

of 400-year-old cedar trees leading from the Zuishinmon Gate. Combined with the silence of the forest in winter, it is a truly mysterious and spiritual place. If you go further to Kagami-ike Pond, you will see a magnificent view of the jagged Togakushi Mountain Range and a snow-covered field above the frozen pond. To book tours, visit shinanodiscovery.com.

For a good workout, Mt. Hakama and the beech forest near the summit offer spectacular views of Mt. Myoko and Mt. Kurohime.

Cross-country skiers should definitely go to Dowa no Mori Snow Wave, a cross-country course certified by the Ski Association of Japan. The course is located at Kurohime Kogen.

Gear rentals are also available. Visit douwakan.com/snowwave.

Crosscountry skiing at Dowa no Mori Snow Wave

Smelt fishing boats on Lake Nojiri

Back in Shinano Town, you can also enjoy a walk by Lake Nojiri. While Lake Nojiri is more popular during the green season, it is also enjoyable in winter. You can even hang a hammock and have a cup of coffee by the lake. It almost looks like a white sandy beach with all the snow on the shore.

If you have always wanted to try ice fishing, but don’t want to sit for hours in a hut on the ice, you can also fish for smelt in comfort. In the past, Lake Nojiri used to be completely iced over, and people made many holes in the thick ice to fish for wakasagi (Japanese smelt fish). Recently, due to global warming, the surface of Lake Nojiri does not freeze over. Instead, from Nov. 1 to the beginning of April, many wakasagi boats take avid fishers out. Fishers can enjoy the warmth of the boat while dropping a line through a hole in the floor. At its deepest point, Lake Nojiri is almost 40 meters deep so it may be challenging to pull the line up. Don’t be disappointed if you can’t get any fish, as the atmosphere of winter fishing while sipping on sake makes the experience worth it. More info at nojiriko-gyokyo. com/wakasagi_yakata.

Another way to stay warm is The Sauna run by LAMP, a stylish guesthouse and cafe near Lake Nojiri.

This is an authentic Finnish-style log sauna. After warming up inside, you can cool down in the snowy landscape outside. The sauna is also available for private groups. Visit lamp-guesthouse. com to book.

Shinano Town is dotted with a variety of lodges and hotels, especially around the Kurohime Kogen Lake Nojiri and Tangram areas. For information on accommodation, visit www.shinanomachi.com.

GETTING THERE This snowy region has limited transportation options so it is recommended to rent a car during your stay to give you the flexibility to explore the area. It is 30 minutes by train from Nagano Station to Kurohime Station on the Kita Shinano Line. From there, you can rent a car from Nikoniko Rent-a-car.

Rental car availability is limited here so call ahead to reserve or rent a car from Nagano Station and drive to Shinano Town (30-40 minutes). v

The Sauna

Lake Nojiri in winter

Winter 2022 | 13

THE RESISTANCE

BY GARDNER ROBINSON

Indy Pass has come to Japan to take on the Goliaths of the ski resort industry and make it easier and more affordable to enjoy authentic ski experiences at independent resorts throughout Japan.

Backcountry at Geto Kogen

14 | TRAVELER

P

or tlan d - native D o ug Fis h d o e s n' t ne e d much of an excuse to go skiing. Some digital marketing work he was doing for Montana's Red Lodge Mount ain seemed like per fec t justification to visit his daughter, who was attending Montana State, and get in some skiing.

“It was a good chance to see my daughter, connect with Jeff Schmidt, the General Manager, and ski the resort while writing it off,” he laughs.

A week later he was having a “powder lunch” on the chairlift with Jeff and enjoying a nice day on the slopes. Later he bumped into a couple that had driven 20 hours from Minneapolis to ski there.

They told Dan it was “the first and best place they found,” and come out every year, usually hitting Red Lodge Mountain and Bridger over a few days, then drive back.

“A 20-hour drive to ski once a year, wow!”

Doug thought. “The guy was sporting 20-yearold skis—straight as an arrow—and 10-year-old Columbia Sportswear,” he recalls. “There seemed to be a market out there,” he thought, “And this guy was it.”

The next person he talked to was from Grand Rapids, Michigan. “Same story. A passionate, parttime skier who takes four ski trips a year and skis about six days,” he says. “He can’t justify a season pass and he’s not going to spend a thousand bucks on an Epic or IKON Pass—he definitely can’t justify $200 for a day pass,” Doug notes.

There was a market for these guys, he was sure of it.

It was 2018 and Doug was ready for a change.

He was a lifelong s kier and had a his tor y of creative endeavors from working for the largest concert promoter in the Pacific Northwest in the '80s, starting his own advertising agency in the '90s—there was a short corporate hiatus—before founding his marketing agency for small-to-midsized companies he had been running successfully for nearly two decades. Somewhere in between he also found time to combine his talents and create “Snowvana,” the Pacific Northwest’s most popular season kick-off festival for snow sports enthusiasts.

“There was a major disruption in the ski pass industry at the time,” he recalls. “Alterra formed the Icon Pass, Max Pass disappeared, Mountain Collective was in disarray and the Powder Alliance Doug Fish at Red Lodge Mountain

Okunakayama Kogen

was feeling the disturbance.”

T he r e w as a n o p p o r t u ni t y i n t he mar ket to create a pas s for that c asual — yet no les s passionate—skier from Grand Rapids who wouldn’t spend $200 on a day pass, but would spend $299 dollars for a pass to various small to mid-size resorts.

The following January, Fish hit the road in his trailer with his black lab and an idea to pitch at the National Ski Areas Association (NSAA) conference in Snowbird. His Indy Pass would appeal to skiers wanting to visit two to three resorts within a day's drive he believed. He visited 25 independent resorts that month (signed up 10). By August, he had 34 resorts joining the cause. Today Indy Pass features 76 independent resorts in the U.S. and Canada with plans to top out at 100.

“We need to limit the number of resorts in each region to make it work,” he says. “You can’t create too much density.”

Doug notes that the passion of small resorts is vital to creating an authentic ski experience, especially as big corporate, homogenized ski resorts price out many skiers and snowboarders.

T h e r e i s a l o t t o l o v e a b o u t t h e s e s m a l l e r, independent resorts from better food, lower prices and fewer posers.

It didn’t take long for the idea to make its way across the Pacific. Brent Potter and Luke Cummings from Japan Ski Tours reached out to Doug with the idea of introducing some of the great independent ski resorts in Japan.

“Having grown up in Japan — and later radicalized as a 'skier bro’ in the big mountains of Colorado—I relished the intersection of ski culture and Japanese culture. Over the years, guiding on the mainstream 'Japow Circuit,' I started to see Big Money moving into what were previously charming Japanese ski towns. Just like in Waikiki, Bali or Cancun, the authentic feel that made the location f amous was s t ar ting to dis sipate with loc als increasingly becoming priced out,” Brent notes.

Doug felt the vibe was right and when they announced some Japanese resor t s would be joining the pass, it made quite a stir stateside.

“There was a lot of bucket list excitement,” he exclaims.

Winter 2022 | 15

Tazawako Ski Resort

The resorts chosen for the inaugural year are all in the Tohoku Region—the northern part of Japan’s main island of Honshu. Many of these offthe-beaten path resorts have a ton to offer but can’t compete with the marketing budgets of large, foreign-owned resorts alone. But together under the Indy Pass, they might have a fighting chance.

“As the trend of conglomerates and hedge f un d s moving into s k i tow ns an d b uying up i n d e p e n d e nt r e s o r t s a n d f a mil y b u s i n e s s e s co ntinue s, p ur is t s wo ul d arg ue it s t r ips t he authentic spirit from these communities.

Independent resorts uniting to form 'a Resistance' is a hopeful way forward,” says Brent.

“Tohoku is home for me,” shares Luke. “I grew up here and the region is still quite remote and traditional. We’ve always sought to tie in cultural Japanese elements to our trips and Tohoku is the perfect place to do this. Our hope is to help create a healthy revival of many of the ski resorts and towns in the region by partnering them with Indy Pass.”

“Of all the ski regions in Japan, Tohoku is most inline with the Indy brand, so it is the perfect place to start,” Brent adds. “Skiers at the big corporate resorts have a severe case of ‘back in the old days it was so much less crowded/expensive,’ but in Tohoku we’re still in those good old days!”

When approaching resor ts, they looked for those that punched above their weight class and offered varied terrain that would appeal to each kind of skier.

Shimokura Resort

“Shimokura is a little hidden gem with great pow and side country for the backcountry skier; Okunakayama is ideal for families while Tazawako has fun groomers and side country. Geto brings that classic deep powder experience people come to Japan for,” Brent says.

Prox imit y is als o imp or t ant and t he four resorts are all within striking distance so people can maximize their experience on and of f the mountain. Indy Pass plans to add a few more ski resor ts in Tohoku while expanding into other regions such as Nagano and Hokkaido. Similar to North America, this would give Indy Pass holders access to a network of ski resorts across Japan and independent resorts access to a market they otherwise couldn’t tap into.

Back in the U.S., Indy Pass tied up with the team at Teton Gravity Research for their recently released film, “In Pursuit of Soul.” Fittingly the film focuses on 12 independently owned and operated ski resorts, their histories and contributions to skiing and mountain culture in their region. Those same stories exist in Japan through independent resorts, villages and locals that are the soul of skiing in Japan. v

Brent Potter and Luke Cummings

Indy Pass holders receive two lift tickets at 81 resorts for just $329 for adults and $139 for kids.

Indy+ Pass is $429 for adults and $189 for kids but has no blackout dates and includes 25% off a third day of skiing at any Indy Pass resorts. Get yours at indyskipass.com and visit japanskitours.com to find out more about Luke and Brent’s tours for Indy Pass holders in Japan.

16 | TRAVELER

H A C H I M A N TA I ' S

POWDER HISTORY

BY RIE MIYOSHI

H

achimantai is located at the foot of Mt. Iwate, smack center of the northern Tohoku Region.

The area has all the elements of a solid winter destination—vast ski resorts, an expansive volcanic mountain range, natural hot springs and, as avid skiers would know, deep, fine powder. The consistent, high-quality snow is a result of seasonal winter winds carrying thick moisture east from the Sea of Japan, causing snow clouds to form.

These snow clouds make their way over Tohoku’s Ou Mountain Range until they arrive in Iwate Prefecture's Hachimantai area where the resorts are blessed with some of Honshu’s finest powder. Locals boast the powder near the mountain peaks is so fine that it’s impossible to form snowballs.

The rich and prosperous history also helped mold Hachimantai into what it is today. Skiing was first introduced here in 1918 making it one of the birthplaces of skiing in Japan. At that time, Hachimantai was home to the prosperous Matsuo Mine, said to be the best sulfur mine in the east. The mine’s community of around 15,000 people formed a ski club, practicing at the mine’s private resort.

They eventually became one of Japan’s strongest teams.

During the '50s, the mine began to decline as there was less demand for sulfur. Yet they saw opportunity in domestic tourism as a massive ski boom was just taking off while a tired and war-torn Japan slowly recovered. They opened Ryugamori Ski Resort, a commercial resort that attracted skiers from all over Japan—even the U.S. military.

Expanding from mining sulfur to enjoying its byproduct, the company also drilled into Matsukawa Onsen, which released hot springs as well as steam.

A few years later in 1966, Japan’s first geothermal power plant was built here. This not only met the needs for a stable supply of electricity, but also produced clean energy using natural steam that is still used today. Hachimantai continues to embrace the sustainable lifestyle, utilizing geothermal energy for power, farming, agriculture and production.

While the mine closed in 1969, Higashi Hachimantai Onsen opened shortly after, branding the region as a famous onsen and skiing destination.

This region continued to flourish especially during Japan’s bubble economy.

Today, Hachimantai continues to welcome growth and exciting international development. This season alone, three massive hotels under IHG Hotels & Resorts group have opened and are all located on one site boasting 18 restaurants and bars, meeting and conference spaces, several retail outlets, and ten health and recreation venues including a 2,000-square-meter onsen facility.

Additionally in August 2022, the prestigious Harrow School from the U.K. is scheduled to open its first school in Japan here.

Winter 2022 | 17

HIGHLIGHTS Appi Kogen Ski Resort As Tohoku’s biggest ski resort, Appi has 21 slopes and 828 meters of vertical on Mt. Mamori and Mt. Nishimori.

The resort faces north, which is great for snowfall but makes it susceptible to strong winds. Most of the runs are longer than two kilometers, the longest over five kilometers.

While grooming is a popular feature of the resort, there are also ungroomed runs made for powder riding and d e s i g n a t e d t re e s k i i n g a re a s — i n particular the Yamagara and Inuwashi runs on Mt. Nishimori. There’s also the Tree Run Zone across the Nishimori and Sailer slopes covering 60 hectares.

Before heading to the Tree Run Zone, be sure to sign a safety form at the first floor of the Appi Plaza building.

Backcountry tours are available through Appi Kogen Backcountry Tours. There are half-day and full day tours ranging from ¥6,500 to ¥16,000.

The massive ANA Crowne Plaza Resort Appi Kogen at the base makes it an easy, but pricey, ski-in skiout destination for families and eager riders. Located next door, Shirakabano-Yu is a natural hot spring with an impressive rotenburo (outdoor bath) area. It is open to both guests and day trippers. There is also an affordable variety of accommodation further down at the Appi pension village. As the area is mainly made up of hotels and pensions, you’ll have to plan ahead for dining options.

Hachimantai Resort This resort is made up of two areas, Panorama Ski Resort and Shimokura Ski Resort. Panorama is geared towards beginners and intermediate riders.

For those wanting to experience other types of snow activities, Hachimantai Winterland offers snow rafting, snow tubing, mini snowmobiles, banana boat riding, sledding and snowshoe hiking.

Skids Camp is a ski and snowboard school for kids.

18 | TRAVELER

S h i m o k u r a i s g e a re d t o w a rd s experts. The lifts face east, so it doesn’t get hit by strong storms and heavy winds that may shut down some lifts at Appi. The resort’s Diamond course is known for its 37-degree gradient called the “Wall of Shimokura.” Riders can also go snowcat skiing with Hachimantai Cat Skiing. There are only six marked courses here and while the advancedlevel terrain is small compared to other resorts, its uncrowded tree runs are worth it.

The two resorts are not connected via slopes but are linked by a free shuttle bus that takes 10 minutes.

You can use the same lift pass at both resorts.

Nanataki Falls Snowshoe along the Nanataki route on Mt. Iwate to see the mystical, frozen 25-meter waterfall. The seven-tiered waterfall has a drop of 60 meters and is one of the “100 famous waterfalls of Japan.” It takes a little over three hours round trip and is a recommended trail for beginners. The waterfall is frozen from late January to February.

Matsukawa Onsen To h o k u ’s m o u n t a i n s i n w i n t e r can drop to -30 degrees Celsius with windchill, so you’ll need to stay warm and recover after a day on the slopes.

Matsukawaso is a traditional Japanese ryokan used for generations as a place to recover from injuries and sickness.

The geothermal waters from this sulfur spring are milky white. The open-air rotenburo bath overlooks the Matsukawa River, and you can even bring in little pitchers of sake and cups into the bath. Be warned however: it’s a mixed bath. Right next to the rotenburo is a place to make onsen tamago, eggs boiled in sulfurous hot springs water.

Access to the baths for non-staying guests is ¥550.

Studio Alpine Rose Not many people may want to visit a power plant on their vacation, but you might be interested in learning more about its history by trying geothermal dyeing. This studio, located near the power plant, is one of the few places in the world that uses geothermal steam in the process of fabric dyeing. The clean hydrogen sulfide is free of impurities and creates beautiful gradation in the colors. Visitors can try their hand at this unique form of dyeing and bring home a souvenir.

GETTING THERE The best way to get to Hachimantai is by taking the shinkansen (bullet train) to Morioka Station. If you’re coming from Tokyo, it takes two-anda-half hours from Tokyo Station on the Tohoku-Hokkaido shinkansen line. The easiest way to get around the area is renting a car from Morioka Station.

There are also buses to Hachimantai Resort (60 minutes), Matsukawa Onsen (120 minutes) and Appi Kogen (50 minutes), although these may take longer in winter. v

For more information or to book experiences at Hachimantai, check out Visit Hachimantai at trip8.jp.

knowledge is

“POWDER” think deep

PHOTO BY TOCHI SATO

Winter 2022 | 19

HOKKAIDO

Kamui Ski Links Furano

T

he general rule with skiing is, the farther north Kiroro Snow World you go, the better the snow. Well, you can’t go any farther north in Japan than Hokkaido, Niseko Grand Hirafu and the area rightfully creates the biggest buzz for Niseko Village people in search of deep powder. The reason for this is simple: Hokkaido consistently gets the best snow Niseko Annupuri conditions, and Niseko in particular is recognized as a world-class ski resort, rivaling the long-established Rusutsu ski areas in Europe and North America. However, anyone thinking Hokkaido is a one-trick pony will be pleasantly surprised to find there are some great ski areas all over Japan’s north island.

Sahoro

Tomamu

NISEKO NISEKO GRAND HIRAFU, NISEKO ANNUPURI, NISEKO VILLAGE RESORT, NISEKO HANAZONO

Kutchan-cho, Hokkaido Niseko United: www.niseko.ne.jp

Niseko Grand Hirafu 37% 1 8 Park

Park

Niseko Annupuri

Longest Course: 4,000m Top Elevation: 1,156m Base Elevation: 400m Beginner Lifts

Intermediate Gondola

20 | TRAVELER

Niseko HANAZONO Resort

Longest Course: 4,550m Top Elevation: 1,030m Base Elevation: 308m

Niseko Grand Hirafu

Advanced

Longest Course: 5,600m Top Elevation: 1,200m Niseko Village Base Elevation: 240m Longest Course: 5,000m Top Elevation: 1,175m Base Elevation: 280m

40% 5 1

23% 1

Niseko Village Resort 36% 1

32% 4

32% 2

27

courses

30

courses

Niseko Annupuri 30% 1

13

courses

40% 1

Niseko HANAZONO Resort 30% 4

25% 3

11

courses

63%

12%

Niseko gets a lot of attention, and rightfully so. It is the most international ski resort in Japan and consistently gets some of the heaviest snowfall in the world. The mountain, Mt. Annupuri (which, in Ainu, means White Mountain), is home to three ski resorts: Niseko Grand Hirafu, Niseko Village (formerly Niseko Higashiyama) and Niseko Annupuri.

Collectively they form Niseko United and share a common lift pass. The Hanazono area of Niseko Grand Hirafu is independently managed, and one of the more progressive areas on the mountain, featuring three terrain parks and the only FIS Half Pipe in Japan, which is well maintained throughout the season, and a bag jump, where you can safely practice your freestyle tricks.

Niseko Village (which is a 10-minute drive from the main Hirafu Village area) also has nice facilities and a lot of activities. Niseko Annupuri keeps the lowest profile of the three, but has some nice areas that can be less crowded. Other nearby resorts are Niseko Moiwa and Niseko Weiss. The lifts are no longer running at Weiss, but cat tours service the area. While a few other resorts may challenge Niseko’s claim to the best powder in Japan, there is no doubt Niseko has the best, and widest, selection of restaurants and accommodations in Japan.

The infrastructure is well organized, with efficient bus service to/from Sapporo and New Chitose Airport and a shuttle bus that takes visitors to the various resorts. On one of those rare midseason clear days, the view of Mt. Yotei from the slopes is the quintessential image of skiing in Japan.

NISEKO ANNUPURI

(0136) 58-2080 Dec. 4 - May 5

1 DAY TICKET

ACCESS

Adults Kids

https://annupuri.info/winter/english 8:30 - 20:30 (16:30 - 20:30)

¥5,600 ¥3,300

Park

By Train: 120 minutes from Sapporo Station to Niseko Station

By Car: 120 minutes from Sapporo City and New Chitose Airport

NISEKO GRAND HIRAFU

(0136) 22-0109 Dec. 4 - May 5

1 DAY TICKET

ACCESS

Adults Kids

www.grand-hirafu.jp 8:30 - 20:00 (16:30 - 20:00)

¥6,600 ¥4,000

Park

By Train: 120 minutes from Sapporo Station to Kutchan Station

By Car: 130 minutes from Sapporo City and 130 minutes from New Chitose Airport

NISEKO VILLAGE

(0136) 44-2211 Dec. 3 - Apr. 3 1 DAY TICKET

ACCESS

Adults Youth Kids

¥6,200 ¥4,700 ¥3,800

www.niseko-village.com 8:30 - 20:00 (16:30 - 20:00) Park

By Train: 120 minutes from Sapporo Station to Kutchan Station

By Car: 120 minutes from Sapporo City and New Chitose Airport

NISEKO HANAZONO RESORT

(0136) 21-6688 Dec. 4 - May 5 1 DAY TICKET

ACCESS

Adults Kids

¥6,600 ¥4,200

https://hanazononiseko.com 8:30 - 17:00 Park

By Train: 120 minutes from Sapporo Station to Kutchan Station

By Car: 120 minutes from Sapporo City and New Chitose Airport

Winter 2022 | 21

RUSUTSU RESORT

(0136) 46-3111 Nov. 27 - Apr. 3

Rusutsu, Hokkaido

https://rusutsu.com/en 9:00 - 20:00 (16:00-20:00)

1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

¥6,500 ¥3,500

Rusutsu is more than a good day trip from Niseko. It’s an excellent all-round mountain with 37 courses over three mountains: Mt. Isola, East Mountain and West Mountain.

Powder lovers will love the big valleys full of deep tree runs funneling down to the modern, efficient lifts, and everyone will enjoy the views of the back side of Mt. Yotei and the quieter alternative to bustling Niseko. The skiin/ski-out Rusutsu Resort Hotel is the most convenient place to stay with hot springs, day care, fireworks during Christmas and New Year and a variety of great activities.

ACCESS

By Bus: 120 minutes from Sapporo Station via shuttle bus

By Car: 90 minutes from New Chitose Airport

KIRORO SNOW WORLD

(0135) 34-7111 Dec. 4 - Apr. 3

www.kiroro.co.jp/english/ 9:00 - 20:00 (16:30 - 19:30)

Park

Akaigawa, Hokkaido 1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

¥5,900 ¥3,100

Kiroro is a relatively new (opened in 1992) ski resort just 30 kilometers west of Sapporo. The resort has great facilities, some amazing views of the Japan Sea and the natural surroundings and gets a lot of snow from mid-December until early May. Kiroro makes up for its lack of challenging terrain by offering a few powder pockets and plenty of gentle slopes for beginners and children. The "Powder Zone" opens middle of January to middle of March.

Kiroro also has one of the best base lodges in Japan, complete with a hot spring to soak away the day’s bumps and bruises and an adjacent hotel with good restaurants.

Park

37% 1

37 4

Park

Beginner Lifts

Intermediate Gondola

37% 1

37% 4

Advanced

10

courses

Longest Co Top Elev Base Ele

26% 4

Park

ACCESS

Beginner Intermediate Advanced

By Car: About 30 minutes by car from Otaru or 80 minutes by car from downtown Lifts Gondola Sapporo

SAPPORO KOKUSAI

(0115) 98-4511 Nov. 19 - May 8

www.sapporo-kokusai.jp 9:00 - 17:00

Sapporo, Hokkaido 1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

¥4,600 ¥1,000

If you ski or snowboard, Sapporo is hard to beat. Residents can get a few quick runs just 15 minutes from downtown at Sapporo Bankei. However, many families make the one-hour drive out to “Kokusai,” which offers more choices for beginners and intermediate skiers and has a nice park. Although this is a day-trip resort, it does attract a spattering of international guests who find it hard to stay in the city when snow is falling. Most will be pleasantly surprised as this coastal resort gets its fair share of powder days and offers some varied, albeit fairly short, runs and a small, but decent park. Night skiing is not available.

Park

ACCESS

Beginner

By Car: One hour from Sapporo city center, depending on traffic Lifts

SAPPORO TEINE

(0116) 82-6000 Dec. 3 - May 5

Intermediate Gondola

Advanced

1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

Beginner

Intermediate

By Car: 30 minutes from Sapporo city center, depending onLifts traffic Gondola

22 | TRAVELER

Park

30% 2 Park

Beginner Lifts

30% 2

7

courses

Intermediate Gondola

Advanced

60% 1

10% 2

7

courses

60 1

Longest C Top Elev Base El

Longest Course: 3,600m Top Elevation: 1,100m Base Elevation: 670m

Sapporo, Hokkaido

www.sapporo-teine.com 9:00 - 21:00 (16:00 - 21:00)

¥5,500 ¥2,900

If someone mentions the Winter Olympics in Japan, you’ll undoubtedly think of the 1998 Nagano Olympics. Yet 26 years earlier, Sapporo hosted its own Winter Games at a resort just 30 minutes from downtown Sapporo. Yet, what might be most surprising is this resort, Sapporo Teine, offers some steep and deep powder fun for intermediate and advanced riders. The offpiste terrain is up in the Teine Highland area, accessible without having to duck ropes or elude the patrol. The Teine Olympia is a kinder, gentler area, which has a lively park scene.

Night skiing available until 9 p.m.

ACCESS

Longest Course: 4,050m Top Elevation: 1,180m Base Elevation: 570m

10

courses

Advanced

Park

40% 1

Beginner Lifts

Intermediate Gondola

40% 1

15

courses

30% 1

Advanced

30%

Longest Course: 6,000m Top Elevation: 1,023m Base Elevation: 680m

15

courses

30 1

Longest Co Top Elev Base Ele

SAHORO RESORT

Shintoku, Hokkaido Adults Kids

1 DAY TICKET

(0156) 64-4121 www.sahoro.co.jp 9:00 - 18:00 (15:00 -18:00) Dec. 17 - Mar. 31

¥5,800 ¥4,600

Park

Sahoro is a well-run resort that caters to families. There are 17 nicely groomed courses, some “semi-backcountry” and a terrain park.

Like Tomamu, it’s a place where you can have fun whether you are a skier or not, with lots of activities. Two all-inclusive hotels service Sahoro Resort: The Sahoro Resort Hotel, an attractive luxury hotel, and the Club Med Sahoro. English ski lessons are available and lots of organized fun for the whole family. Sahoro is not for the budget traveler, but makes for a great family getaway.

ACCESS

By Train: 94 minutes from New Chitose Airport to Shintoku Station

By Car: 200 min. from Sapporo to Tomamu I.C.

HOSHINO RESORTS TOMAMU

(0167) 58-1111 Dec. 1 - Apr. 4

¥5,400 ¥3,400

Park

Adults Kids

1 DAY TICKET

¥6,000 FREE

Park

Central Hokkaido's Furano Resort is known for blue skies, yet manages nearly nine meters of snow each year. There are two sides to the mountain, serviced by a 101-person cable car (Japan’s fastest). The nearby Tokachi Range is a popular backcountry playground. The ski-in/ ski-out New Furano Prince Hotel has a new hot springs facility. Join the Host Program and get a tour from a local or a bus tour from January to March to Lake Shikarebetsu’s ice village and bathe in ice bathhouses or enjoy a drink at the ice bar built on the frozen lake.

Park

Park

Bus or car access is recommended: 60 minutes from Asahikawa Airport to Furano

Station

KAMUI SKI LINKS

Furano, Hokkaido

(0167) 22-1111 www.princehotels.co.jp/newfurano 8:30 - 19:30 (16:30 -19:30) Nov. 20 - May 8

ACCESS

By Train: 90 minutes from New Chitose Airport to Tomamu Station

By Car: 100 minutes from New Chitose Airport

FURANO RESORT

Shimukappu, Hokkaido Adults Kids

1 DAY TICKET

www.snowtomamu.jp 9:00 - 18:00 (16:00-18:00)

To m a m u h a s e x c e l l e n t f a c i l i t i e s a n d a beautiful location. Many courses are suited for beginners, yet a challenging double black diamond course and cat-ski tours will challenge advanced riders. Tomamu is a destination in itself with a plethora of ways to entertain the whole family. There’s a good selection of restaurants, an indoor wave pool, Kids Park, Ice Village and a variety of spa and relaxation options. The resort has also expanded the Family Adventure area and connected the two mountains.

ACCESS

Asahikawa, Hokkaido

(0166) 72-2311 www.kamui-skilinks.com 9:00 - 17:00 Beg. of Dec. - Mar. 31

1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

¥3,800 ¥1,800

Kamui Ski Links is a resort run “by skiers, for skiers.” Those who enjoy powder and tree skiing will understand why this little resort 20 kilometers outside of Asahikawa has so many admirers. Management has no restrictions on tree skiing and has even left several courses in which to play ungroomed. On top of that, the snow quality is excellent. You may find yourself in some short lines for the lifts on weekends, but on weekdays it is nothing but fresh lines down the hill. Be sure to warm up by the fireplace at Trattoria & Pizzeria 751 at the top of the gondola.

Park

ACCESS

Bus or car access is recommended: About 40 minutes from downtown Asahikawa

on Route 12

Winter 2022 | 23

TOHOKU Hakkoda Ropeway

Hachimantai Resort

Tazawako

HAKKODA ROPEWAY

Grandeco

1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

6 Times (on Ropeway) ¥6,100 ¥2,150

Miyagi Eboshi

Alts Bandai

Yamagata Zao

APPI KOGEN

Hakkoda, Aomori

(017) 738-0343 www.hakkoda-ropeway.jp Mid-Dec. - Beg. of May 9:00 - 15:20

Appi Kogen

(0195) 73-6401 Nov. 27 - May 8

Photo courtesy of JapowTours.com

T

he Tohoku Region represents about 35 percent of the area of Japan’s main island, Honshu. Running north-south through the center of Tohoku are the Ou Mountains, ranging between 1,500-2,000 meters. When the famous poet, Matsuo Basho, wrote The Narrow Road to the Deep North (Oku no Hosomichi), these were the mountains toward which he walked. Today they are full of some of Japan’s least crowded ski resorts. Tohoku may seem far away, but it’s only two-to-four hours by bullet train or you can jump on a domestic flight. Regardless, it’s never too far to go to find good snow.

Hachimantai, Iwate

www.appi-japan.com 8:00 - 20:00 (16:00 - 20:00) 1 DAY TICKET

Park

Adults Kids

¥5,600 ¥3,100

Park

Tour Route Area Tour Route Area

20% 1

60% 1

20%

30% 2 1

Park

40 3

The eight peaks of Hakkoda attract Japan's most Longest C APPI is a giant resort (45.1 kilometers of trails) with Longest Course: 5,000m devoted powder lovers. It is basically backcountry 21 Top Elev Beginner Intermediate Advanced season 5 aToplong Elevation: 1,324m(thanks to the many north-facing Beginner Intermediate Advanced courses Base Ele with a 100-person gondola that takes 10 minutes Lifts Gondola courses slopes) plus some Lifts Gondola Base Elevation: 660m great facilities (thanks to bubble to the top with four trips every hour. Once you era spending). Unlike many resorts in Japan that get off, you can choose from "Direct" or "Forest"

60% 20% 20% have relatively short runs, the average course length trails. You won't get many blue bird Tourdays here, and at APPI is 2,100m; the longest 5,500m. It’s possible Area

visibility can be difficult during Route snowstorms, which 1 1 Tour Route Area to do Appi as a long day-trip from Tokyo but, with happen often. So if you are a Hakkoda newbie and two ski-in/ski-out hotels and an annex hotel, which want to explore the terrain, it's best to grab a local collectively sleep 4,100 guests, why not stay and guide. Hakkoda Sansou, across the parking lot from

soak away sore muscles at one of the two natural Longest Course: 5,000m the gondola, is the closest accommodation. Up the

5 hot springs after a day on the mountain.

Families Top Elevation: 1,324m Beginner Intermediate Advanced

road, Sukayu Onsen is a mixedLiftshot spring with a

courses Base Elevation: 660m

Gondola will appreciate the Kids Park.

300-year history and a 1,000-person bath.

Park

ACCESS

By Bus: 80 minutes from Aomori Station

By Car: 35 min. from Aomori I.C. and Ishiguri I.C.

ACCESS

HACHIMANTAI RESORT

TAZAWAKO SKI RESORT

Hachimantai, Iwate

(0195) 78-4111 www.hachimantai.co.jp 8:30 - 20:00 Dec. 18 - Mar. 21

By Train and Bus: 50 minutes from Morioka Station to APPI.

By Car: 15 minutes from Matsuo-Hachimantai I.C. or Ashiro I.C.

Tazawako, Akita

(0187) 46-2011 www.tazawako-ski.com 9:00 - 16:00 Mid-Dec. - Mar. 31 1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

¥4,300 ¥3,000

1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

¥4,100 ¥1,100

Park

Park

40% 1

PANORAMA

30% 1

20% 5

30% 2

When it snows in Tazawako, and it usually does, there is deep powder and a good variety of courses to enjoy.

When Longest Course: 2,700mit is not snowing, you are treated Longest Cou 13 Top Eleva 14 toTopone of the1,130m great views of any ski resort in Japan, Elevation: Beginner Intermediate Advanced Beginner Intermediate Advanced courses courses Lifts Gondola Lifts Gondola with Lake Tazawa below providing a stunning Base Elev Base Elevation: 540m backdrop. For this reason, Tazawako is a popular 30% 40% 30% ski resort for people in Tohoku, but the lines are 40% 30% 30% still relatively short when compared to resorts in 4 2 1 1 5 other areas of Japan. The lifts run directly from the Tazawako Onsen hotel area. The selection of runs should keep everyone happy; on one side is a beginner and intermediate area, and on the other is Longest Course: 3,000m Longest Course: 2,700m 13 Top Elevation: 1,186m 14 Top Elevation: 1,000m a more challenging advanced course.

Beginner Powder Intermediatelovers Advanced courses courses Base Elevation: 540m Lifts Gondola won’t want to miss the Komagatake Panoramic Cat Base Elevation: 608m Tour.

SHIMOKURA

It’s easy to get confused because there are two Iwate Hachimantai resorts and another in Akita.

Iwate’s Hachimantai Resort, is a great family ski destination. Hachimantai Resort covers PANORAMA two main areas, Panorama ski area and the Shimokura ski area. Both are well sheltered from the weather, and Panorama features a huge SHIMOKURA night skiing area. There are high-speed lifts and mainly beginner or intermediate courses.

Park

Beginner Lifts

ACCESS

Intermediate Gondola

Advanced

Park

Park

By Train and Bus: Shinkansen from Tokyo to Morioka Station (2 hours , 11 minutes), then about 90 minutes by bus to Hachimantai Resort

24 | TRAVELER

30% 4

Park

ACCESS

By Train and Bus: Shinkansen from Tokyo to Tazawako Station (3 hours), then 30 minutes by bus to the ski resort

EBOSHI RESORT

Zao-machi, Miyagi

(0224) 34-4001 www.eboshi.co.jp 9:00 - 22:00 (16:00 - 22:00) Dec. 2 - End of Mar.

Adults Kids

1 DAY TICKET

¥4,700 ¥2,000

Park

Miyagi's Eboshi Resort is on the other side of the mountain from the more famous Yamagata Zao Onsen Ski Resort. It's much quieter, the lift lines are shorter on this side of the track, and the views are fantastic. Although it's a decent sized resort with well laid-out courses and a variety of ways to descend the mountain, it is more geared for beginners or advanced riders, as there is not a lot of challenging terrain.

Powder hounds will be salivating on some of the areas outside the lines.

ACCESS

ZAO ONSEN SKI RESORT

Yamagata-shi, Yamagata

(023) 694-9617 www.zao-ski.or.jp 8:30 - 21:00 (17:00 - 21:00) Dec. 11 - Apr. 1

1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

¥5,500 ¥2,800

Park

Ski resorts each have their own personalities; it is one of the joys of exploring new resort areas.

Zao Onsen has a big bubbling personality. The town is literally bubbling with hot springs, and the ski resort offers a unique ski experience— skiing among the famous Zao Snow Monsters (juhyo). The resort is big with four gondolas, 32 lifts and a 10K downhill course. Skiers will enjoy the layout more than snowboarders (too much traversing), but the highlight, undoubtedly, is riding among these huge creatures formed of ice and wind. The peak season is February, and the juhyo illumination is spectacular.

By Train and Bus: 2 1/2 hours by bullet train from Tokyo to Yamagata Station,

then 40 minutes by bus to Zao Onsen

HOSHINO RESORTS ALTS BANDAI SNOW PARK & RESORT (0242) 74-5000 www.alts.co.jp 8:30-21:00 (17:30-21:00) Dec. 24 - Mar. 27

1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

¥4,900 ¥3,700

With 30K of rideable terrain, nearly 30 courses and progressive free-style parks, it is no surprise ALTS is a favorite of many of the top park riders in Japan. The resort is the largest in southern Tohoku and was the home to the Asia Open. ALTS has a Cat Ski area on the west side of the resort where visitors can enjoy some deep turns. Slide into Yama Cafe for a drink or relax in the hotel's great hot springs. ALTS is a southfacing resort, so it’s bright and features some nice terrain for free riding, but powder lovers will want to head next door to north-facing Nekoma. This year, a route connecting ALTS and Nekoma will open so you can reach Nekoma within a 15-minute walk.

Park

Park

ACCESS

(1

By Train and Bus: Shinkansen from Tokyo to Shoroishi-Zao Station hour, 54

minutes) then about an hour to the ski resort

ACCESS

GRANDECO SNOW RESORT

(0241) 32-2530 www.grandeco.com 8:30 - 17:00 Beg. of Dec. - Beg. of Apr.

M.O.C Nagata

Bandai, Fukushima

Park

Aizu Ura Bandai, Fukushima 1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

¥5,400 ¥3,800

Grandeco Snow Resort is a medium-sized resort with first-rate facilities, which include a gondola and express chairlifts and artificial snow-making capabilities to guarantee early and late-season riding. There is also a luxury hotel and SIA certified Snow Academy. Although the resort is best suited for beginners and intermediate riders, there are tree runs for advanced riders and a well maintained park. Gran Deco is one of the highest resorts in the area, which means good quality snow. The nearby Hotel Gran Deco has westernstyle rooms, an indoor and outdoor swimming pool (open in winter), Jacuzzis, saunas, hot spring baths, restaurants and bars.

ACCESS

By Train: 90 minutes from Tokyo Station to Koriyama Station

By Car: 75 minutes from Fukushima International Airport.

By Train: 45 minutes from Inawashiro Station via local bus.

By Car: 35 minutes from Inawashiro Bandai Kogen I.C.

Park

40% 1

Beginner Lifts

Intermediate Gondola

Advanced

8

45% 4

15% 2

Longest Course: 4,000m Top Elevation: 1,590m

courses Base Elevation: 1,010m

Winter 2022 | 25

NAGANO Togakushi

N

agano is the traditional center of the Japan snow scene, and at the heart of it is the Japan Alps. The prefecture is home to some of the finest, steepest and biggest resor t s in Japan, and boast s arguably the most breathtaking scener y. Within Nagano, the sheer volume of ski areas is due to the jagged spine of rugged natural beauty known as the Japan Alps slashing through the prefecture. This area is as much a Mecca for photographers as it is for skiers, with its many onsen, snow-swept valleys and bristling peaks. Backcountry fun here is limited only to your preparedness and daring.

Hakuba, Shiga Kogen, Nozawa and the Iiyama areas are just the tip of the proverbial iceberg.

HAKUBA GORYU

Hakuba Cortina Tsugaike Hakuba Iwatake Hakuba Happo

Okushiga Yakebitaiyama Shiga Kogen Area Hoppobundaira Higashitateyama Nishitateyama

Hakuba 47

Hakuba Goryu Norikura

HAKUBA 47

Hakuba, Nagano

(0261) 75-2101 www.hakubagoryu.com/e/index.html Dec. 13 - Beg. of May 8:00 -16:50 (18:00 - 21:30) 1 DAY TICKET

Nozawa Onsen Madarao

Hakuba, Nagano

(0261) 75-3533 www.hakuba47.co.jp Nov. 26 - Beginning of May 8:00 - 16:20 Adults Kids

¥5,500 ¥2,900

1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

¥5,500 ¥2,900

Park

Park

40% 3

35% 1 1

30% 1

25% 9

40% 1

Part of Hakuba Valley Resorts, Hakuba Goryu is one Hakuba 47 5,000m is a relatively new resort (opened Longest Co Longest Course: of the most scenic and pleasant places to ski. Soak up in Top 1990), and1,624m they’ve been trying to take some Top Eleva Elevation: Beginner Intermediate Advanced Beginner Intermediate Advanced courses courses the view as the Japan Alps soar behind you, and then Lifts Gondola Lifts Gondola Base Ele Base Elevation: 950m steps to making a better resort fresh, progressive head down to Escal Plaza, one of the best base lodges experience. There are loads of activities and events, 40% 25% 35% 40% 30% 30% in Japan. There is a ski/snowboard rental shop, a nice an extensive snow park with lots of jibs, kickers selection of restaurants and even a bath open until and things to launch off, and a great half pipe. The 1 9 1 4 3 1 9 p.m. daily. The Toomi Piste is open until 9:30 p.m. resort also has some excellent intermediate courses, If you’re on a tight budget, there is a “resting room” a challenging mogul course and a shared ticket 1 where you can wait for the lifts to open. It’s a common with Goryu, so no shortage of courses from which space that fits up to 100 people (no reservations Longest Course: 5,000m Longest Course: 6,400m to choose. If you were wondering about the name, required). Serious skiers can challenge Top Elevation: 1,624m Top Elevation: 1,614m Beginner themselves Intermediate on Advanced Beginner Intermediate Advanced courses Base Elevation: 950m courses Base Elevation: 820m the goal of the resort is to offerLifts a great mountain Gondolashares a Gondola the Champions expert run. HakubaLifts Goryu also experience “4” seasons and “7” days a week. common lift pass with Hakuba 47.

Park

Park

ACCESS

Park

16

Park

16

By Train and Shuttle: Shinkansen to Nagano Station and the direct bus to Hakuba. A shuttle service runs between Goryu and Hakuba 47

HAKUBA HAPPO-ONE

Hakuba, Nagano

(0261) 72-3066 www.happo-one.jp 8:00 - 21:00 (17:00 - 21:00) Nov. 26 - May 8

ACCESS

8

8

By Train and Bus: Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Nagano Station (1 hour, 45 minutes), then an Alpico Bus to Hakuba (60 minutes)

HAKUBA IWATAKE SNOW FIELD

Hakuba, Nagano

(0261) 72-2474 iwatake.jp Dec. 17 - Mar. 27 8:00 - 17:00 1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

¥5,500 ¥3,200

1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

¥4,600 ¥2,800

Park

Park

­

Happo is a huge resort that is heaven for skiers If the crowds at Happo are too much for you,

who enjoy well-groomed, long courses. There are

over to nearby Iwatake. The base of the

head

many runs, good challenging terrain and a nice

resort looks up at Hakuba’s highest peaks for a park and the Hakuba Banks Park opens on Feb. 1. spectacular view while you enjoy the slopes. The

Happo hosted the downhill races during the 1998

resort itself is surprisingly big, making it a great Olympics and, if you want to test your meddle,

head to the top of the men’s downhill course. While place to go to get away from the crowds and advanced riders will love Happo, beginners may get explore the 26 courses. Lift lines are relatively

frustrated with the many narrow paths leading down short by Hakuba standards, and you can often the mountain. If you need a break, there are plenty

find some pockets of powder here after it has of restaurants to stop for a bite. Note the resort’s

especially

popularity means it can get crowded, on been tracked out at other resorts nearby.

long weekends.

ACCESS

By Train and Bus: Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Nagano Station (1 hour, 45 minutes), then an Alpico Bus to Hakuba (60 minutes)

26 | TRAVELER

­

ACCESS

By Train and Bus: Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Nagano Station (1 hour, 45 minutes), then an Alpico Bus to Hakuba (60 minutes)

HAKUBA CORTINA SKI RESORT

Hakuba, Nagano

(0261) 82-2236 www.hgp.co.jp 1 DAY 8:30 -17:00 (Dec. 29 - Jan. 3, 9, 10: 17:00 - 21:00) TICKET Dec. 18 - Apr. 3

Adults Kids

¥4,200 ¥2,600 Park

If you are looking for a place to spend a quiet, romantic ski weekend in the Hakuba area, head over to Cortina. The massive Green Plaza Hotel with northern European architecture is impressive.

If your ski partner is just starting out, the course right outside the door of the hotel is a gentle slope and great for beginners. Although most of the runs are in the beginner to intermediate range, there are some steep courses, and they have adopted a progressive approach to tree skiing and power areas in which guests are responsible for themselves if they get into trouble. The Hakuba Cortina Resort also offers a convenient shuttle from Nagano Station (one-way, 1,000 yen).

ACCESS

Beginner

By Train: From Shinjuku to Minami Otari: 4 hours (By Azusa) Lifts

By Car: 90 minutes from Nagano I.C. to hotel

HAKUBA TSUGAIKE KOGEN

(0261) 83-2515 www.tsugaike.gr.jp Dec. 18 - May 8 8:00 - 17:00 (8:00 - 20:50 on Sat.)

Intermediate Gondola

Advanced

40% 2

Beginner Lifts

40% 2

Adults Kids

¥5,500 ¥3,300

Beginner Station Intermediate

By Train and Bus: Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Nagano Lifts Gondola (1 hour, 45 minutes), then a shuttle to Hakuba Cortina (80 minutes)

MT. NORIKURA

Advanced

30%

Longest Course: 2,025m Top Elevation: 1,402m Base Elevation: 872m

Park

50% 1 1

Park

Beginner Lifts

Intermediate Gondola

50% 1 1

14

courses

30% 1 9

Advanced

14

courses

30% 1 9

20% 9 2

Longest Course: 4,630m Top Elevation: 1,704m Base Elevation: 800m

20% 9 2

Longest Course: 4,630m Top Elevation: 1,704m Base Elevation: 800m

Norikura Kogen Onsen, Nagano

www.b r n o r i k u r a . j p 8:45 - 16:30

1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

¥4,300 ¥2,200

The base of Mt. Norikura (not to be confused with the smaller Hakuba Norikura) starts at 1,500 meters, meaning the snow quality is excellent, and you’ll spend more time riding than in lift lines. It is a relatively small, local resort, yet the dedicated locals have created a progressive and challenging terrain park and good facilities for beginners to learn to ride.

There is no ATM, so bring cash or your credit card and make sure to pack chains or have a 4WD, since Norikura is nestled deep in the Northern Alps. After a day on the mountain, don’t miss the great rotenburo at Yukemurikan.

ACCESS

30% 5

16

courses

Longest Course: 2,025m Top Elevation: 1,402m Base Elevation: 872m

16

courses

Park

(0263) 93-2645 Dec. 11 - Apr. 3

Advanced

30%

Otari, Nagano 1 DAY TICKET

Tsugaike is actually located in Otari Village, just up the road from Hakuba. The resort could be considered one of the most underrated, considering it has some huge bowls, a big gondola, terrain park, cross-country course, good night skiing and some interesting runs.

There are even heli-skiing tours in spring and good places to hike to get fresh turns. The Children’s Square is great for kids just starting out on the slopes. Most of Tsugaike’s runs are in the intermediate range, but there are a few expert areas as well. To finish off a great day, head over to Tsuga no Yu hot springs, just 100 meters from the gondola.

ACCESS

Intermediate Gondola

30% 5

Park

(2

By Train: Super Azusa Express train from Shinjuku to Matsumoto hours, 37

minutes. Transfer at Matsumoto, then on to Shin Shimashima (30 minutes)

Winter 2022 | 27

SHIGA KOGEN Shiga Kogen, Nagano www.shigakogen-ski.com

Shibutouge

Okushiga Kogen

Terakoya Yokoteyama

Yakebitaiyama Yama no Kami

Ichinose Family

Hoppo Bunadaira, Higashidateyama, Nishidateyama

Tanne no Mori

Kumanoyu Giant

Diamond

Hasuike

Kidoike SunValley

Maruike If you include all 19 interlinked ski resorts, Shiga Kogen in northern Nagano is Japan’s largest ski resort area. Surrounded by 2,000-meter mountains, Shiga has good elevation and is a great place to get in some early or late season runs, as the season stretches from late November to early May. Shiga Kogen hosted the women’s downhill, slalom, the super giant slalom and both snowboarding events for the 1998 Nagano Olympic Winter Games.

W ith more than 80 accommodations scattered around the area, there is no shortage of places to stay, although it has retained an “old school” feel with most restaurants found inside hotels; some serving Shiga Kogen’s excellent microbrew. There are many onsen in the area to soak in after a day on the mountain, yet the most famous in the area is off-limits to humans.

Jigokudani Yaen Koen is a sanctuary for resident snow monkeys that lounge in their own hot springs, while visitors snap away with their cameras.

Shiga Kogen has limited ATM access (ATM is available at the Shiga Kogen Post Office in the Hasuike area), so bring some cash.

Starting this year, a common ski lift pass will be available for Shiga Kogen Resort’s 13 ski areas which are part of the “Shiga Kogen Resort Chuo Area.” These resorts include Sun Valley, Maruike, Hasuike, Giant, Happo Bunahira, Higashi Tateyama, Teragoya, Takamahara

Mammoth, Nishi Tateyama, Tanne-no-mori Okojo, Ichinose Family, Ichinose Diamond and Ichinose Yama-no-kami. If you plan to try all the ski areas, you’ll need to give yourself at least a few days to explore the various terrain.

Okushiga Kogen is known as “Skiers Paradise” as it remains a skiers-only resort, (along with Kumanoyu), while Yakebitaiyama is a Prince Resort with excellent facilities. The Hoppo Bunadaira area is great for beginners and families with small children while Higashidateyama is best suited for advanced skiers, although there is a gentle woodland course as well. The resort hosted the men’s and women’s giant slalom in the 1998 Olympic Games, and it boasts an extremely challenging downhill course. The restaurant at the summit of Mt. Higashidate boasts incredible panoramic views and is the starting point to get to other ski areas such as Terakoya.

ACCESS

By Train and Bus: 110 minutes from Tokyo Station to Nagano Station, then bus (70 minutes) to Shiga Kogen resorts

HOPPO BUNADAIRA - HIGASHITATEYAMA - NISHITATEYAMA

(0269) 34-2301 https://shigakogen.co.jp 8:30 - 16:30 Beg. of Dec. - Beg. of May 1 DAY TICKET

ACCESS

Adults Kids

¥5,600 ¥2,700

Park

By Train: 90 minutes from Tokyo Stn. to Nagano Stn. By Car: 300 minutes from Tokyo

YAKEBITAIYAMA (0269) 34-3117 www.princehotels.co.jp/ski/shiga/winter Dec. 4 - May 8 8:30 - 16:00 (18:00 - 20:00) 1 DAY TICKET ACCESS

Adults Kids

¥5,300 FREE

Park

By Train: 110 minutes from Tokyo Stn. to Nagano Stn. By Car: 300 minutes from Tokyo

OKUSHIGA KOGEN SKI FIELD (0269) 34-2225 http://en.okushiga.jp 7:30 - 16:30 Dec. 11 - May 5 1 DAY TICKET ACCESS

28 | TRAVELER

Adults Kids

¥6,000 ¥3,000

45% 1

Park

By Train: 110 minutes from Tokyo Stn. to Nagano Stn. By Car: 300 minutes from Tokyo

Beginner Lifts

Intermediate Gondola

Advanced

9

35% 5

20%

Longest Course: 2,200m Top Elevation: 2,000m

courses Base Elevation: 1,460m

MADARAO MOUNTAIN RESORT

(0269) 64-3214 www.madarao.jp 8:30 - 17:00 Dec. 18 - Apr. 3

Iiyama, Nagano 1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

¥5,000 ¥2,000

Park

Located in northeastern Nagano just above Iiyama Town, Madarao Kogen features 16 lifts and 22 courses across a bowl-shaped terrain on Mt. Madarao (1,382 meters). The resort has a nice variety of courses, groomers, a tree run area, free ride park, wave courses and kids park. They claim 60 percent of the course is ungroomed so, if you like riding powder, there should be plenty in which to play. There is also a joint ticket available for Tangram Ski Circus, a small, pretty resort. Backcountry tours can be arranged through the resort.

Park

Beginner Lifts

ACCESS

Advanced

29

courses

TANGRAM MADARAO

(026) 258-3511 www.tangram.jp/eng 8: 30 - 16: 30 (17:30 - 20:30) Dec. 18 - Apr. 3

29

courses

TOGAKUSHI SKI FIELD

1 DAY TICKET

¥4,300 ¥3,000

Longest Course: 2,500m Top Elevation: 1,350m Base Elevation: 440m

30% 5

Longest Course: 2,500m Top Elevation: 1,350m Base Elevation: 440m

Park

30% 2 1

MADARAO MOUNTAIN RESORT Park

Beginner Lifts

30% 2

Intermediate Gondola

Advanced

40% 3

30% 1

29

courses

40% 3

30% 5

Longest Course: 2,500m Top Elevation: 1,350m Base Elevation: 440m

Longest Course: 2,500m

Togakushi, Nagano Adults Kids

1 DAY TICKET

¥4,500 ¥2,500

Togakushi is an interesting, medium-sized resort. The name “Togakushi” means “hidden door,” it derived from the Japanese myth and the resort is owned by Nagano City, yet it is still relatively unknown to people outside the area.

The best way to describe Togakushi is pleasant.

The conditions always seem to be pretty good, course is variegated and there are often great powder days. Best of all, it never seems to get as busy as the more popular Nagano resorts, and it has retained a very local feel. Togakushi Village is in itself an interesting place. It is famous for soba, and there are some beautiful shrines, temples and onsen nearby to finish off a great day on the mountain.

Park

30% 2 Park

Beginner Lifts

Intermediate Gondola

30% 2

40% 5

Advanced

19

40% 5

30%

Longest Course: 3,000m Top Elevation: 1,750m

courses Base Elevation: 1,200m

30%

Longest Course: 3,000m

Park

19 Top Elevation: 1,750m

By Train and Bus: Shinkansen from Tokyo Station toBeginner Nagano Station Intermediate Advanced courses Base Elevation: 1,200m Lifts (1 hour, 30 minutes), then less than 1 hour to Togakushi byGondola bus

NOZAWA ONSEN

Nozawa Onsen, Nagano

(0269) 85-3166 www.nozawaski.com 8:30 - 17:00 (16:30 - 20:00) End of Nov. - May 8

1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

¥5,200 ¥2,900

If you’re looking for the quintessential Japanese ski experience, Nozawa Onsen is hard to beat. This traditional hot spring village sits at the base of a great mountain (Mt. Kenashi, 1,650m). The resort is one of the oldest ski grounds in Japan, getting consistent snowfall. There are two gondolas and a large selection of courses to choose from. The town also features 30 hot springs scattered around the village (including 13 free baths in town) and the Dosojin Matsuri (Fire Festival) held on Jan. 15, which is a spectacle to behold.

Park

Park

40% 2 10

Park

Park

Beginner Lifts

40% 2 10

Intermediate Gondola

Advanced

30% 5 1

40% 3 1

36

courses

Longest Course: 10,000m

By Train: Tokyo Station to Nagano Station by Shinkansen (109 minutes), 36 Top Elevation: 1,650m Beginner Intermediate then Iiyama Line to Togari-Nozawa Onsen St. (60 minutes) and taxi Advanced or courses Base Elevation: 565m Lifts Gondola shuttle bus to Nozawa Onsen. By Car: 75 minutes from Nagano Station Park

ACCESS

30% 5

14 Top Elevation: 1,320m Beginner Intermediate Advanced

By Train and Bus: Shinkansen from Tokyo to Nagano City (1 hour, 28 courses Base Elevation: 800m Lifts Gondola minutes) then by bus to Tangram Madarao

(026) 254-2106 www.togakusi.com 8:30 - 16:30 Dec. 11 - Mar. 31

ACCESS

40% 3

Advanced

40% 3

Madarao, Nagano Adults Kids

Tangram Ski Circus sounds like a great place for kids—and it is. The ski-in/out Hotel Tangram sits right at the bottom of this family-friendly resort. Facilities include hot spring baths and a heated indoor swimming pool. The resort features 14 courses on the northwest side of Mt. Madarao, with well-groomed runs, great for mom and dad to get in some leg burners with the kids. The trees look tempting, but beware the ski patrol is vigilant here. However the resort is connected to Madarao Kogen, giving you 30 courses to explore if you get bored with the runs right outside your door.

ACCESS

Intermediate Gondola

30% 2 1

Park

By Train and Bus: Shinkansen from Tokyo to IiyamaBeginner Station (100 Intermediate Gondola minutes) then take a bus to Madarao Kogen HotelLifts(30 minutes)

30% 2 1

TANGRAM SKI CIRCUS

Winter 2022 | 29

30% 5 1

40% 3 1

Longest Course: 10,000m Top Elevation: 1,650m Base Elevation: 565m

NIIGATA O

ne day in 1986, the good people of Joetsu, a coastal city in Niigata, were deluged by 232 centimeters of snow—in one day. That’s roughly enough to bury a one-story building. Although this sort of thing doesn’t happen every day, Niigata gets some of the heaviest snowfalls in Japan. The town of Yuzawa was where Yasunari Kawabata penned his awardwinning novel “Snow Country” (Yukiguni). It is also Niigata’s most popular of winter sports areas, due to the easy access from Tokyo (77 minutes) and the variety of ski resorts a snowball’s throw from the station. Just over the border from Nagano Prefecture, in the southeastern part of Niigata, the Myoko Kogen area is one of Japan’s best-kept secrets. This scenic, mountainous area stretches all the way to the Sea of Japan coast and features some great resorts in its own right.

Joetsu Kokusai

NASPA Ski Garden

GALA Yuzawa

Iwappara Charmant Hiuchi Seki Onsen Akakura Myoko Suginohara

Kagura Tashiro Mitsumata

GALA YUZAWA SNOW RESORT YUZAWA KOGEN Mt. NAEBA KAGURA • MITSUMATA

NUNOBA FAMILY IPPONSUGI SKI RESORT

Mt. NAEBA KAGURA • TASHIRO

Naeba

GALA YUZAWA STATION

NUNOBA

ECHIGO YUZAWA STATION

NASPA SKI GARDEN

IWA-PPARA WINTER RESORT

KANDATSU KOGEN LUDENS YUZAWA SKI

YUZAWA PARK SKI YUZAWA NAKAZATO KAYAMA CAPTAIN COAST NAKAZATO SNOW WOOD Mt. NAEBA

Mt. NAEBA • SHIRAKABA Mt. NAEBA • ASAGAI

GONDOLA ROPEWAY

NAEBA

Yuzawa, Niigata

(0257) 89-4117 http://www.princehotels.com/en/ski/naeba/index.html 8:00 - 17:00 (16:00 - 20:30) Dec. 18 - Apr. 10 Adults Kids

1 DAY TICKET

KAGURA - TASHIRO - MITSUMATA

Yuzawa, Niigata

(0257) 88-9221 www.princehotels.com/en/ski/kagura Kagura, Mitsumata: Nov. 20 - May 22 Tashiro: Dec. 18 - May 5

¥6,000 FREE

1 DAY TICKET

8:00 - 17:00

Adults Kids

¥6,000 FREE

Park

Park

­

Park

Mt. Naeba calls itself "The St. Moritz of the East" and is a popular choice for Kanto trendsetters These three connecting ski areas form one big

wishing to get away for a convenient ski weekend.

If you count Naeba, the total rideable area

The crescent-shaped Prince Hotel cuts an imposing resort.

is 303 hectares. From Naeba, you’ll be lifted above

Lake

figure at the base of this classic ski-in/ski-out

Tashiro to wider and less crowded slopes

resort and features all the trappings you would and better snow quality, but the area closes at 4 ­

expect from a Prince-managed resort hotel. Off the p.m. and the lift line back to Naeba can be long,

mountain, there are children’s services, shops and so beware. A better option is to access the Tashiro

Ropeway on Route 17. You can then

traverse

across other amenities and, on the mountain, a terrain

Tashiro in about 40 minutes to Kagura, a popular park, kids park, family snow park and more. Naeba backcountry zone and a great option for early and is connected to Kagura, Tashiro, and Mitsumata area has a small late season skiing. The Mitsumata ski areas via the "Dragondola," which travels 5.5

boarder's park, a few jumps and two good slopes

kilometers in just 20 minutes, so there

are 55 trails

for learning.

Accessible by the Mitsumata Ropeway

explore if you have the time.

on Route 17.

Park

ACCESS

By Train: Joetsu Shinkansen from Tokyo to Echigo Yuzawa Station (77 minutes) then take the local bus to Naeba Ski Resort (50 minutes)

30 | TRAVELER

ACCESS

By Train: Joetsu Shinkansen from Tokyo to Echigo Yuzawa Station (77 minutes) then take the local bus to Kagura Ski Resort (30 minutes)

GALA YUZAWA SNOW RESORT

(0257) 85-6543 Dec. 18 - May 5

Yuzawa, Niigata

https://gala.co.jp/winter/english/ 8:00 - 17:00

1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

¥5,200 ¥2,600

Park

If you want a quick, convenient day-trip from Tokyo, you can’t get any easier than GALA Yuzawa. The ski resort has its very own bullet train and train station that doubles as the ski center. The amazing efficiency means you won’t be alone on the hill. However, get up to the mountain, get in a few runs with friends and be back in time to buy your favorite designer goods in Harajuku. The resort is geared toward recreation and families with kids, but it does connect to other resorts, so there are more options for serious skiers. And if you just want to have fun in the snow for a day with friends, you can’t beat the convenience.

Park

IWAPPARA

Yuzawa, Niigata 1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

¥4,500 ¥2,500

Park

40% 2

Beginner Lifts

40% 2

IntermediateStaAdvanced

By Train and Shuttle Bus: 77 minutes from Tokyo Station to Beginner Echigo Yuzawa Lifts Gondola tion then shuttle bus from Echigo Yuzawa Station (10 minutes)

NASPA NEW OTANI

20

courses

Intermediate Gondola

Advanced

40% 7

20%

40% 7

20%

Longest Course: 4,000m Top Elevation: 985m Base Elevation: 400m

20

courses

Longest Course: 4,000m Top Elevation: 985m Base Elevation: 400m

Yuzawa, Niigata

(025) 780-6888 www.naspanewotani.com 8:30 - 17:00 Dec. 25 - Mar. 27

1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

¥4,500 ¥3,500

Park

NASPA is a relatively new ski resort (opened in 1992) whose claim to fame is being one of the last skiers-only resorts left in Japan.

The ski hill is behind the deluxe New Otani Hotel. The resort definitely caters toward families who ski and want to stay in luxury.

Guests can enjoy the excellent hot springs, Jacuzzis, a swimming pool, fitness center and a selection of restaurants. Its location near the station makes for a quick, convenient ski weekend from Tokyo, if you want to get in a few turns (on skis) with the family.

Beginner Lifts

38% 2

Intermediate Gondola

Advanced

37% 1

25% 2

8

courses

37% 1

25% 2

Longest Course: 2.2km Top Elevation: 690m Base Elevation: 430m

Longest Course: 2.2km Top Elevation: 690m Base Elevation: 430m

8 Beginner Yuzawa Intermediate StaAdvanced

By Train and Free Shuttle Bus: Joetsu Shinkansen to Echigo courses Lifts Gondola tion (77 minutes) then free shuttle bus to NASPA Ski Garden (5 minutes)

JOETSU KOKUSAI SKI RESORT

38% 2

Park

Park

Minamiuonuma, Niigata

(025) 782-1028 www.jkokusai.co.jp 8:00 - 21:00 (17:00 - 21:00) Dec. 18 - Mar. 21

1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

¥4,300 ¥2,500

One of the largest ski resorts in Japan, Joetsu Kokusai boasts four zones catering to different levels that satisfied a wide range of skiers and snowboarders. There is a kids park right outside the hotel, rentals and ski school programs for beginners. Enjoy soaking in an onsen and dining on local cuisine after a day on the slopes. There are also free events held throughout the season.

Park

ACCESS

16

Iwappara is one of the more popular resorts in the Yuzawa area. It is extremely convenient from the station (10 minutes) by shuttle bus, so it is quite possible to do a day trip from Tokyo. The main course is very wide open, making it a great place for beginners to practice their turns without fear of being run over by a speedy skier (or vice versa). The views from the top are nice, and the village area around the ski area has a nice selection of restaurants.

ACCESS

16

By Train: 75 minutes from Tokyo Station to GALA Yuzawa Station courses

By Car: 5 minutes from Yuzawa I.C. (Kanetsu Expressway)

(025) 787-3211 www.iwa-ppara.com Dec. 25 - Mar. 27 8:00 - 19:00 (17:00 - 19:00) (Saturdays: 8:00 - 20:00)

ACCESS

courses

Park

ACCESS

Yuzawa Station

(77

By Train: Joetsu Shinkansen from Tokyo to Echigo minutes) then train to Joetsu Kokusai (12 minutes)

Winter 2022 | 31

MYOKO SUGINOHARA

(0255) 86-6211 www.princehotels.co.jp/ski/myoko Dec. 25 - Mar. 27 8:30 - 16:30

Myoko, Niigata Adults Kids

1 DAY TICKET

¥4,800 FREE

Park

Myoko Kogen is simply one of the naturally prettiest ski areas in Japan. Suginohara is part of Prince Hotels (although there is no hotel here), and the facilities are well maintained. The runs above the gondola are where advanced skiers and powder hounds will have the most fun. The resort has 17 trails, a terrain park, kids sledding area (ask about kids skiing free) and six onhill restaurants. Suginohara also boasts one of Japan’s longest top-to-bottom, an 8.5-kilometer thigh burner that will test anyone’s meddle if left for the last run of the day. The stunning view of Lake Nojiri below from the gondola makes it worth the trip alone.

40% 1

40% 2

Park

Beginner Lifts

Intermediate Gondola

Advanced

40% 2

20% 2

40% 1

16

courses

Longest Co Top Eleva Base Ele

Park

Longest Course: 8,500m

ACCESS

16 Top Elevation: 1,855m Intermediate

By Train: 120 minutes from Tokyo Station to MyokoBeginner KogenGondola StationAdvanced courses Lifts Base Elevation: 731m

By Car: 180 minutes from Tokyo

AKAKURA ONSEN

(0255) 87-2125 Dec. 11 - Apr. 3

Akakura Onsen, Niigata

www.akakura-ski.com 8:30 - 22:00 (17:00 - 22:00)

Adults Kids

1 DAY TICKET

¥6,000 ¥1,000

Akakura Ski Resort is located at the bottom of Mt. Myoko and is the largest resort in the Myoko Heights area. The resort has a nice variety of courses as well as powder stashes and some challenging courses on the old “Champions” side of the mountain. The town’s hot springs date back to 1814, and there is no better way to finish off a day on the mountain. The Akakura Resort & Spa sits majestically on the slopes. It’s a great place to stay if you want ski in/ski out luxury. The area averages about 13 meters of snow annually, so there is plenty of fluffy stuff, and it has a pleasant natural beauty. Akakura has a nice variety of courses, but the most challenging runs are on the old “Champions” side of the mountain.

Park

By Train: Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Nagano Station (1 hr., 45 min.),

then take the

JR Shinetsu Honsen Line to Myoko Kogen Station, then 10 minutes by bus Park

ACCESS

Park

SEKI ONSEN

Seki Onsen, Niigata

(0255) 82-2316 www.sekionsen.com 9:00 - 17:00 Dec. 23 - Beg. of May

Adults Kids

1 DAY TICKET

¥3,800 ¥2,800

Seki is the highest ski area in the Myoko Kogen area and, even though there are just two lifts, there is access to many powder runs. This is a locals mountain, and they check the weather reports and know when the storms will hit, sometimes dropping one or two meters of new snow overnight. It pays to get up early if you want first tracks. Don’t expect groomers; this is natural terrain and free riding at its finest: tree runs, natural pipes and some good hits.

Park

20% 1

30% 1

Park

Beginner Lifts

20% 1

Intermediate Gondola

Advanced

30% 1

50%

Longest Co Top Eleva

6

courses Base Eleva

Park

ACCESS

Beginner Intermediate Advanced

By Train: Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Nagano Station (1 hr., 45 min.), then take the JR Shinetsu Honsen Line to Sekiyama Station, then 20 min.Lifts by taxi Gondola

CHARMANT HIUCHI

(025) 568-2244 http://charmant-hiuchi.jp 8:30 - 16:30 Dec. 17 - May 5

Longest Course: 1,600m Top Elevation: 1,620m

6

courses Base Elevation: 1,000m Itoigawa, Niigata

1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

¥4,100 ¥3,050

Charmant is a locally owned and operated ski resort most of your friends do not know about but may wish they did. The resort is literally right on the Japan Sea (you can see it from the top lifts) and gets some of the heaviest snow dumps around. It is also a healthy drive from Tokyo (four hours), but is worth the trip if you enjoy short lift lines and uncrowded slopes. There are lots of ungroomed areas and advanced terrain including a 1,000-meter powder course. The proximity to the sea means there is some excellent seafood nearby as well, and you can ski straight through Golden Week.

Park

20% 1 Park

Beginner Lifts

20% 1

Intermediate Gondola

Advanced

45% 2

35%

Park

ACCESS

Beginner From Intermediate Car access is recommended: Train and bus service is inconvenient.

TokyoAdvanced Gondola it takes 4 hours by car, depending on traffic and weather Lifts

32 | TRAVELER

45% 2

16

courses

Longest Course: 2,700m Top Elevation: 1,009m Base Elevation: 501m

16

courses

Longest Co Top Eleva Base Ele

BEYOND THE BRAND

THESE BOOTS WERE MADE FOR

RIDING

A

tsushi Gomyo was born and raised in Nagano and has been snowboarding since he was 10. In his 20s, he rode for Taro Tamai’s Hokkaido-based snowboard company Gentemstick until he and his friends branched out to create Prana Punks, which makes a line of handmade wooden yuki-ita (bindingless snowboards) designed with snowboarding, skateboarding and surfing in mind.

“I started making yuki-ita because it’s an environmentally friendly option.

We use local wood and natural products as much as possible—things that aren’t harmful to the environment or our body,” says Gomyo. “Even if it breaks or gets lost in the mountains, it’ll just naturally decay and leave a minimal carbon footprint.”

Gomyo collaborated with footwear company KEEN this season to produce the Glieser Tall WP, a versatile winter boot that allows you to go from city to the snowy mountains. Most importantly, this boot was custom designed for yuki-ita.

“For many years now I’ve been talking with KEEN about wanting to design winter boots for yuki-ita riding, and now my wish has come true,” beams Gomyo. “This boot is about four or five years in the making.”

The Glieser Tall WP is a lightweight boot that has ample amount of mobility, yet plenty of ankle support when needed. The rubber sole provides grip but is also thin and flexible. Riding without bindings may be freeing, but it’s also tricky as every minute movement or weight shift affects your ride. With this boot, you can directly “feel” the snow and board through your feet when riding.

“When you’re on a snowboard, you rely on your bindings and boots to turn and stabilize yourself. With the yuki– ita, you have only your balance to rely on. It really builds up your perception of balance and helps you be a better snowboarder,” says Gomyo.

The boot uses shoelaces that can be tied all the way up for security while riding, or halfway for a more relaxed and flexible style (or an urban look).

It also utilizes KonnectFit, a heelcapture system for a locked-in feel. The upper of the boot is made of certified suede leather tanned with minimal environmental impact. Naturally, this winter boot is water repellent and withstands temps down to -20°C. Gomyo is an ambassador for KEEN, and regularly holds yuki-ita shaping workshops at resorts around Japan where locals can test ride their new boards while trying out KEEN’s winter boots. Riders can meet him this season at On Snow Jam, a promotional event for people to try out yuki-ita and the

Glieser Tall WP boots as well as KEEN’s other new footwear. The event will be held on Feb. 26-27 at Nozawa Onsen ski resort and feature two days of music in the evenings at the Winterland Lodge and Taproom.

Gomyo is also an advocate of forest conservation and a Protect Our Winter Japan athlete. For more information about Gomyo’s boards or projects, visit makesnowtoys.com.

The Glieser Tall WP is available for purchase online or at KEEN stores for ¥17,600. It is available in three earthy colors: Dark Olive / Forest Night, Shiitake / Dark Earth, and Triple Black / Black. Sizes range from 25-30 cms. and are currently only available in men’s sizes. For more information, visit keenfootwear.com.

Winter 2022 | 33

GUNMA

Kawaba

Minakami Houdaigi

Okutone Snow Park Tenjindaira Tanigawadake

Oze Iwakura

Norn Minakami Manza Onsen Kusatsu Kokusai

W

hile neighboring Niigata gets most of the attention, Gunma quietly has some great snow resorts of its own. Located in northeast Gunma near the border with Niigata, Minakami has 10 ski resorts and is just 90 minutes from Tokyo. Oze Katashina is another quality area that flies under the radar. Katashina Town lies in the shadows of mighty Mt. Hotaka and Mt. Shirane and features nearby resorts such as the popular Oze Iwakura, Hotaka Bokujo, a boarder’s park, and Oguna Hotaka, a nice mid-sized resort. Manza, to the east of Katashina, the popular ski and onsen areas of Manza and Kusatsu Resort & Spa are great places to relax before or after a good day on the mountain.

MINAKAMI HOUDAIGI

Minakami, Gunma

OKUTONE SNOW PARK

(0278) 72-8101 Dec. 18 - Apr. 3

(0278) 75-2557 www.hodaigi.jp Mid-Dec. - Beg. of Apr. 8:30 - 16:30 1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

¥4,500 ¥3,000

Minakami Houdaigi ski resort is the largest in the Minakami area. The resort, due to

the higher elevation, also gets good quality snow. Although there are many beginner and

intermediate runs, there are a few advanced

courses as well, including a killer 40-degree

slope and a 2,600-meter cruiser.

By Train and Bus: Shinkansen to Jomo Kogen (75 minutes) then bus to Houdaigi (70 minutes) Minakami, Gunma

(0278)-72-6688 www.norn.co.jp 8:00 - 22:00/24:00 (16:30 - 24:00) Dec. 20 - Mar. 27 1 DAY TICKET

Park

30% 5

NORN MINAKAMI

¥5,100 FREE

40% 1

Park

ACCESS

Adults Kids

1 DAY TICKET

Park

Minakami, Gunma

www.okutone.jp 8:00 - 22:00 (weekends & holidays 6:00 - 24:00)

pipes and jumps are your thing, Okutone ski If rails,

area

is the place to go in Minakami. The park staff takes

Beginner

Intermediate

Advanced

Lifts Gondola good care of guests who come to perfect their style at the resort’s park. The night sessions are popular, 40% 30% 30% since they keep the lights on until midnight on Friday and Saturday nights and before national holidays. The 5 1 north-facing courses have nice snow quality, and you can enjoy some turns on the 3,900-meter long course.

Okutone is just two hours from Tokyo, making it super Longest Course: 3,000m convenient. They offer free tickets to kids under 12 and Top Elevation: 1,083m Beginner Intermediate Advanced courses Base Elevation: 550m Lifts on weekdays.

Gondola free coffee if you come before 10 a.m.

10

courses

Longest Co Top Eleva Base Elev

Park

10

ACCESS

By Train and Bus: Shinkansen to Jomo Kogen (75 minutes) then bus to Okutone (40 minutes)

TENJINDAIRA TANIGAWADAKE

Minakami, Gunma

(0278) 72-3575 www.tanigawadake-rw.com 8:30 - 16:30 Beg. of Dec. - Beg. of May Adults Kids

¥4,700 ¥3,700

1 DAY TICKET

Park

Adults Kids

¥4,000 ¥2,500

Park

30% 2

50% 2

30% 1

20%

40 4

Park Park

Situated just three kilometers from the Minakami Interchange, Norn Minakami is the most convenient of the Minakami Resorts if you are coming by car.

The resort is great for families. They’ve created “family zones” where the average slope is just 13 degrees and a Day Care Center where parents can drop off the little ones and enjoy some time on the mountain themselves. Norn is open from 7 a.m. to midnight on weekends, so you can enjoy a long day on the slopes and, like all Minakami resorts, it Beginner Intermediate Advanced is not far from some great hot springs.

Lifts Park

ACCESS

Although Tenjindaira is better known to most Course:in2,000m Longest C forLongest trekking summer, when the tram is packed 5 10 Top Elev Tophikers, Elevation:the 1,220m Beginner Intermediate Advanced Beginner Intermediate Advanced resort is a popular stop on the courseswithBase courses Lifts Lifts Gondola Elevation: 820m Base El backcountry trail. The resort itself is relatively small, but lift lines are usually short and the snow 40% 30% 30% 20% 20% 60% quality can be excellent if it’s not too windy up top.

However, the secret to “Tenjin” is off the main trails.

1 4 2 2 Those who like their riding steep and deep head for the backcountry. This is “enter at your own risk” territory and not a place to go without avalanche Longest Course: 4,000m Longest Course: 2,000m gear (and the knowledge how to use it). Better yet, 10 Top Elevation: 1,500m 5 Top Elevation: 1,220m Intermediate and Advanced hire one of the knowledgeableBeginner local guides courses courses Base Elevation: 820m Lifts Gondola Base Elevation: 750m enjoy some "Japow!"

By Train: 150 minutes from Tokyo Station to Minakami Station, then free shuttle. By Car: 90 minutes from Tokyo (Nerima IC) via Kanetsu Expressway

34 | TRAVELER

Park

ACCESS

By Train and Bus: Shinkansen to Takasaki Station, then change to the Joetsu Line to Minakami Station, then 20 minutes by bus to Tenjindaira

KAWABA

Kawaba, Gunma

(0278) 52-3345 www.kawaba.co.jp Dec. 5 - End of Mar. 8:30 - 16:00

1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

¥4,900 ¥3,600

There’s something different about Kawaba.

You’ll notice it the first time you pull into the covered parking area of the eight-story Kawaba City center house. There are six floors of parking and the seventh and eighth floors are filled with restaurants and ski/board shops.

On the mountain, Kawaba is progressive as well with a nice balance of park and powder.

Within the 10,790 meters of skiable terrain is the “Powder Zone,” a section of the mountain left ungroomed for powder lovers. There is a good mogul course, the Free Ride Park (back by popular demand) and a 3,300-meter trail for cruising. Kawaba City also includes a ski school, kids corner and locker rooms.

A little-known place awesome for Skiing & Snowboarding

Park

20% 3 Park

Beginner Lifts

Intermediate Gondola

20% 3

40% 1

Advanced

40% 1

10

40%

40%

MINAKAMI 1 1 GUNMA Longest Course: 2,000m Top Elevation: 2,020m

courses Base Elevation: 1,290m Ski &

Alpine Lodge Snowboard Lessons Backcountry tours Snowshoe tours

Park

Longest Course: 2,000m

10 Top Elevation: 2,020m Beginner

By Train and Shuttle Bus: Shinkansen to Jomo Kogen (75 Intermediate minutes),Advanced courses ACCESS then a 50-minute shuttle bus ride to Kawaba Lifts Gondola Base Elevation: 1,290m

KUSATSU ONSEN

Kusatsu, Gunma

(0279) 88-8111 www.932-onsen.com 8:30 - 21:00 (17:00 - 21:00) Dec. 4 - End of Mar.

1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

¥5,200 ¥3,900

Although Kusatsu is famous as one of the country’s best onsen resorts, the area also features a quality ski resort that has been around since the Taisho Era and is open nearly six months out of the year. Kusatsu Snow & Spa has a zipline, Kids Square where the little ones can enjoy activities such as snow tubing, and a variety of courses for all levels. However, ­ the best part of being at Kusatsu is the fact you can enjoy some world-famous hot springs after a great day on the mountain.

Park ­

+81-278-72-2811 www.canyons.jp

By Train and Bus: Shinkansen to Karuizawa Station from Tokyo (72

ACCESS minutes), then 55 min. by direct bus from Karuizawa Station

MANZA ONSEN

Tsumagoi, Gunma

(0279) 97-3117 www.princehotels.co.jp/ski/manza/winter 8:30 - 16:30 Dec. 25 - Mar. 21

1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

¥4,900 FREE

Manza Onsen is another of Prince Resorts signature properties, and the hotel’s buildings command an imposing presence at the bottom of the hill. The resort features a lot of good beginner and intermediate runs and is a great place for families. There are not a lot of challenging runs for advanced skiers, but the scenery is beautiful, the snow quality excellent as it is one of Japan’s highest resorts and the hotel has a nice rotenburo (outdoor bath) for after-ski soaking. The facilities and amenities are on a par with what you’d expect from Prince Resorts, making for a stress-free ski experience.

Park

ACCESS

By Train & Bus: Shinkansen to Takasaki Station (50 minutes) then to Manza-kazawaguchi

Onsen

Station (90 minutes). Then change to the Seibu Kanko Bus to Manza (50 minutes).

OZE IWAKURA

Katashina, Gunma

(0278) 58-7777 www.oze-iwakura.co.jp/ski Dec. 18 - Mid-Mar. 8:15 - 17:00

1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

¥5,000 ¥2,900

Oze Iwakura is only 150 minutes from Tokyo and one of the top ski resorts in the Kanto region for its variety of slopes and powder snow especially at the 1,700-meter peak. There are 16 courses for all levels of riding, and a kids park. There are also six uncompacted snow courses for powderhounds. Advanced riders can hike up Nishiyama and enjoy backcountry skiing. There are two ski-in, ski-out hotels on the slopes. After a day of riding, relax in hot springs and enjoy Japanese culture. From Tokyo, take a direct highway bus from Shinjuku or a shuttle bus from Jomokogen Station.

Park

ACCESS

By Train and Bus: Shinkansen to Jomo Kogen (75 minutes) then by bus to

Oze Iwakura (80 min.)

Winter 2022 | 35

Winter Mountain Biking on Izu's Ancient Paths

BY RIE MIYOSHI

W

h i l e m o s t m o u n t a i n s t h i s s e a s o n a re blanketed in snow, the Izu Peninsula offers a warmer escape. The old-fashioned port town of Matsuzaki is the base for Yamabushi Trail Tour, a mountain bike and kayak-fishing operator that runs tours year round.

Quaint Matsuzaki Town is nestled between coastal mountains and the ocean. A stroll through town takes you back to the Edo Period, as many of the historical buildings still stand with the region’s characteristic namako-kabe (black tile walls) in a criss-cross design held together with white plaster.

No trains run through Matsuzaki, making it tricky to access, which has helped preserve its antiquated charm and avoid being overcrowded with tourists.

The trails up in the dense mountains were used more than 1,200 years ago as kodo (ancient pilgrimage paths) and then, later, for a thriving charcoal industry. Matsuzaki’s subtropical weather and abundance of hardwood made it a popular production spot for charcoal. Workers would make charcoal in the mountains and transport them down by horse to the port until gas became a more sought-after commodity.

These overgrown, forgotten paths were recently discovered by a group of mountain bikers who found potential here for adventure. They cleared over 40 kilometers of trails and started exploring the mountains by bike.

“Matsuzaki is great for mountain biking in winter because there’s no snow or frost which makes for safe and fun riding,” says founder Junichiro Matsumoto. Matsumoto is originally from Yokohama and spent years trekking the Himalayas, Patagonia and around South America before settling down in Matsuzaki.

“The Izu Peninsula teems with nature and I was attracted to how close the mountains and ocean are to each other,” says Matsumoto. “From where I’m at, it takes five minutes to the mountains, five minutes to the ocean, five minutes to the river.”

Matsumoto and his team developed several trails, the longest a 550-meter vertical descent from mountain to sea without leaving the forest. Ancient kannon (Bodhisattva) sculptures line certain sections of the trails: reminders of the rich history the mountains hold.

36 | TRAVELER

Advanced riders can test their skills on the Epic courses with naturally formed half pipes, walls, banks, switchbacks and rock faces carved out of the bedrock. There are also several gullies. More experienced riders can opt for two-day tours.

For beginner mountain bikers, there’s the Fun Ride which slowly introduces elements like half pipes, bunkers, walls and up-down runs. Yamabushi Trail Tour will transport bikes and riders to the trail entrance at the top of the mountain.

The Easy Ride tour is a leisurely cycle around Matsuzaki with excellent views of the satoyama (countryside) and even a 50-meter waterfall you can cool down at in the summer. Electric mountain bikes are available for rent, which give you a nice powerassisted boost when needed.

While their tours are mostly centered around mountain biking, Yamabushi Trail Tour also offers fishing tours using a pedal kayak with all equipment included. Suruga Bay offers a wide variety of fish depending on the season, ranging from madai (sea bream), saba (mackerel), katsuo (skipjack tuna) and hirame (flounder). In the evening, a partnering restaurant prepares and serves the fish.

“Even if you don’t catch anything, the views of Mt. Fuji are great,” laughs Matsumoto. “On the kayak, it feels like you’re sitting directly on the surface of the water looking out at Mt. Fuji.”

Matsumoto also operates Lodge Mondo, a renovated guesthouse on the edge of town. The lodge features private rooms, dormitory rooms, a shared space and big shared bath. His team used locally sourced wood, which were left unused in the mountains, by chopping themselves and processing them into lumber at a nearby sawmill.

“Everything in nature is connected, from the mountains to the river which flows into the ocean.

We’re taking people on these mountain bike tours but simultaneously we want them to see the connection and importance of preserving our forest and natural environment,” says Matsumoto.

To book your mountain bike adventure or learn more, visit yamabushi-trail-tour.com.

PAID PUBLICITY

HIGHLIGHTS Ishibu Rice Terrace Fields These terraced fields, with around 370 paddies, lead down towards Suruga Bay and Mt. Fuji on a clear day, and have been awarded for its photogenic landscape. In May, the fields are lit with candles.

Mt. Eboshi and Kumomi Shrine This 160-meter mountain is a sharp climb to the top where you’ll get a bird’s eye view of Mt. Fuji and Suruga Bay. Kumomi Shrine is located halfway up the trail.

Diving Right under Mt. Eboshi’s nose are several popular dive spots. Divers enjoy Matsuzaki’s complex underwater landscape as it has a bit of everything: caves, nudibranch, macro diving, schools of fish and white sandy spots.

Some diving spots are conveniently close to shore. There are large schools of pectoral fish, snapper and amberjack.

It’s common to see large stingrays and you may even see sea turtles.

Dive Shops Duke’s Diving Service: duke.ne.jp/dds Aquatique: kumomi.jp Dive Shop Hamayu: kumomi-hamayu.com iDive: idive.jp Sakuraba Leaf Mochi Production Foodies will delight that Matsuzaki is the biggest producer of sakuraba, a pickled and sweet sakura leaf usually w r a p p e d a ro u n d s a k u r a m o c h i , a popular confection. This wagashi is a sweet, pink-colored rice cake filled with a red bean anko paste and wrapped in the sakuraba. Several roadside stalls sell these sakuramochi, especially during cherry blossom season in late March and Girl’s Day in the beginning of March.

The leaves are from oshima zakura, different from the popular light pink variety, which thrives in Matsuzaki’s warm climate. Leaf harvesting and production started in the mid-1920s.

They are usually harvested in May to September and pickled in salt in big cedar barrels before being shipped out nationwide to some of the country’s best confectioners.

Chohachi Art Museum It’s almost impossible to miss the tiled namako-kabe walls lining M a t s u z a k i ’s h i s t o r i c a l b u i l d i n g s .

Namako-kabe is one of the traditional finishing styles dating back to the 19th century. They are made of flat tiles over mud and joined with swollen-looking white plaster which looks like namako (sea cucumber). The plaster strengthens weak points of old external walls and helps keep the building fireproof.

The Chohachi Art Museum celebrates Irie Chohachi, a great plasterer from Matsuzaki who created plaster artwork and sculptures during the late Edo period to the Meiji period. His masterpieces were mainly for temples around Tokyo which were unfortunately lost during the Great Kanto Earthquake. Here you can see about 50 of his pieces.

Former Yoda Residence Despite what its name suggests, this historical home has nothing to do with Star Wars; it is the second oldest private house in Izu belonging to the prestigious Yoda family who found success in the silk industry during the Edo Period. Tour the main building, which was built nearly 300 years ago.

GETTING THERE The best way to get to Matsuzaki by public transportation from Tokyo is to take the JR Odoriko Limited Express Train from Tokyo, Shinagawa or Yokohama stations direct to IzukyuShimoda Station. From there, rent a car or take the W40 bus heading for Dogashima and Rendaiji (takes 50 minutes).

F o r a c c o m m o d a t i o n , t h e re i s actually a surprising variety of places t o s t a y, f r o m b i g h o t e l s l i k e I z u Matsuzakisou and Nishiizu Matsuzaki Itoen Hotel, to cozy ryokan and cheaper minshuku.

For more information, visit exploreizu.com. v

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TRAVELOGUE

CYCLING ANCIENT ROADS FROM

Kyoto to the Sea

BY BRAD BENNETT

W

hen you are a cycling guide in Japan and asked to join a small team to explore and create new routes in and around Kyoto, you don’t say no. While Kyoto proper has been overcrowded with visitors in recent years, the greater Kyoto Prefec ture is of ten overlooked.

R e c e n t l y, l o c a l g o v e r n m e n t s a n d t o u r i s t organizations have realized the potential on the door of the sacred old capital and are making an effort to introduce smaller communities that are off the well-worn path in an effort to spread the wealth—and the tourists—outside the city.

We began our adventure in the western side of Kyoto and began by cycling through a tranquil yuzu forest, which provides the distinct flavor for many Kyoto dishes. Our guide, Miyuki Sasaki from Satoyama Experience, was kind enough to slow down the pace up a few mountain passes as we soaked in views of cedar forests and terraced rice fields in the valleys.

We descended and stopped for the night in a hamlet, staying at the traditional thatched-roof Yamazato Ryori Ryokan Isobe. The meals and omotenashi service were amazing, making it easy to recommend for inbound guests or long-term residents.

Rain was on the menu for the following morning so we took a morning stroll through the living museum of Kayabuki-no Sato. It felt like stepping back in time as we walked through hillside temples and shrines shrouded in mist.

Fortunately, the skies cleared and we had a great day pioneering new routes. There are many mukashi michis—forgotten mountain roads—over passes no longer used since large tunnels have made the trip safer for vehicles. This is a wonderful option for the recent gravel bike trend and much safer than competing for space with two-ton killing machines. We met monkeys and deer in the forest and saw evidence of wild boars.

We arrived in the village of Miwa and met our gracious hosts, Sayaka, Nicolas and Theo, who treated us like family and literally shared their Furamaya farmhouse with us for the night.

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The experience lounging by the wood burning stove after a wet day on the bike was magical.

Sayaka and her father remodeled the farmhouse with a beautiful bath, paying careful attention to detail. The meals were a showcase of local vegetables and fish, including “Nico Rice” grown

by Nicolas, the only Belgian rice farmer I know in Kyoto. The smell of freshly ground coffee and homemade bread in the morning woke me up after the best sleep of my journey. After reluctant goodbyes and packing away a few kilos of rice, we set off in the direction of the Sea of Japan.

The large seaside torii was a welcome sight.

Surfers were catching waves, the sun was out and we had a tailwind to help push us around the Tango Peninsula.

I’ve cycled Ishikawa’s beautiful Noto Hanto a few times and I would have to place this coastal route a notch above. Quieter roads, more dynamic scenery and some challenging climbs make it a special place for two-wheeled enthusiasts.

We finished our ride with rainbows in the dis t a nce an d a r ainy s u ns et ju s t in t ime for shopping at a local sake brewery in the funaya boathouse village of Ine. Our understated lodging turned out to be modern with all the conveniences of a five-star hotel. It would be an easy sell for my well-heeled guests to soak up the “lost-in-time” vibes of Ine. Waking up to the sounds of seagulls and fishing boats coming into port, I was reminded how far away from Tokyo I was. Our excellent local guide, Kazuki Masuda from Umino Kyoto E-bike, introduced the bustling morning market where we picked up some fresh fish for breakfast and took a boat trip around the bay. The oceanside ride was beautiful as we returned to busier roads and the unwelcome sight of a McDonalds in the distance.

I wanted to continue up the coast on the eastern side, and will certainly be returning next spring to explore more of this beautiful cycling destination.

To book your Kyoto cycling adventure, visit Satoyama Experience at satoyama-experience.com.

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