Outdoor Japan Traveler | Issue 80 | Autumn 2021

I S S U E 80

AUTUMN 2021

The Samurai Trails of Mt. Madarao ‘ Jagged Peaks Mt. Myougis ‘ Matagi Hunters Akitas Beyond the Brand: Pow Bar Churamura: Footprints in the Sand

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Washi & Omotenashi in Kochi Fall in Love with Kawazu In Cider Japan Eco Track: Minami Satsuma Guide Lines: Autumn Activities

Explore the wonderful natural environment of

SHINANO TOWN Stunning Seasons Adventure Forest Therapy Family Fun

www.shinanomachi-nagano.jp 2 | TRAVELER

SHINANO TOURISM ASSOCIATION 2692-12 Kashiwabara, Shinano-machi, Nagano-ken, 389-1305 (0262) 55-3226 ・info@shinano-machi.com

ISSUE 80

AUTUMN 2021

18

The Samurai Trails of Mt. Madarao INSIDE

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10

12

14

22

24

Fall in Love with Kawazu

Beyond the Brand: Pow Bar

Footprints in the Sand

Monkeying Around on Myougi-san

Tracking Akita's Matagi Hunters

Washi & Omotenashi in Kochi

Eco Track. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Okinawa Island Beat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 From the Editor. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 In Cider Japan. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Autumn Activities & Mountain Biking. . . 6 Travel Directory. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Autumn 2021 | 3

Minamisatsuma

Southern Kagoshima T H E E I G H T C OA S TAL V I E W S O F

K

a g o s hi m a Pr e f e c t u r e, a t t h e s o u t h e r n m o s t t i p o f Ky u s h u Island, was called “Sat suma” during the feudal times before the 19 th centur y. Minamisat suma Cit y sits on the most southwestern part of the Satsuma Peninsula. It has pristine nature, coastal trails and a pleasant, temperate climate throughout the year. The main at trac tions are the Fukiage Coas t, one of the three largest sand dunes in Japan, and the stellar views of Minamisatsuma Kaido Hakkei (the Eight Coastal Views of Minamisatsuma).

Most people in Japan associate the name “Satsuma” with satsumaimo, the Japanese sweet potato. This region is known for delicious satsumaimo produc t s and imo s hochu, traditional distilled spirits made from grains, sweet potatoes and vegetables.

Minamis at s uma’s dr amatic coastline and ocean views make it a popular cycling destination.

KAGOICHI CYCLING ROUTE This 226 -kilometer route is t h e l o n g e s t E c o Tr a c k r o u t e i n Minamisatsuma and makes one loop around the region. Start off at Cycling Te r mi n a l R i n R i n a n d h e a d n o r t h along the coast for about two hours to Eguchi Horai-kan at Eguchi Fishing Port. Enjoy fresh seafood and delicious vegetables at this popular restaurant overlooking the East China Sea.

4 | TRAVELER

Cycle east towards Sakurajima, one of Japan's most active volcanoes and the symbol of Kagoshima. The volcano smokes constantly and minor eruptions t a ke p l a c e m u l t i p l e t i m e s a d ay.

Sakurajima is located in the middle of Kagoshima Bay and is connected to land on the east so you can continue your cycle down to Arahira Tenjin, a scenic island shrine housing the god of learning.

To get back to Satsuma Peninsula, take a ferry from Nejime to Yamakawa terminal, and continue west to Banshobana Nature Park, where the Satsuma clan’s guardhouse was located for maritime security. Today it is a park with a promenade and obser vation deck.

The final leg of this journey stops at a series of observatories that make up the Minamisatsuma Kaido Hakkei Trail. Follow the coast west to Mitori Pass Observation Deck for a stunning sunrise. Fur ther nor th, Mar ukizaki Obser vator y of fers a panoramic view of the East China Sea and is a great spot to catch the sunset. From Ochimizu Obser vatory, you can see the Kame-ga-oka Cliff, a sheer rock wall naturally formed into the shape of a turtle.

The Kurose Observation Museum, which is also an art museum, opens up to a view of Okiakime Island and the rocky coastline, depicted in the artwork found in the museum. From Go ha ma O b s e r v ator y, t he s u ns et appears to loom over Cape Noma.

Twenty-five minutes north, Taniyama Observatory offers a glimpse of the past as it overlooks terraced fields built in the latter half of the Edo Period. The final observatory before arriving back into town is Takasaki-yama, where you can see it all: Hashima-zaki, Eguchi Beach, Fukiage Beach, Sakurajima, Mt. Kinpu, Mt. Nagaya and the Sakinoyama Peninsula.

Af ter c ycling 9 0 minu te s b ac k into town, reward yourself with a hot bath at Kaseda Kaihin Onsen Yuuraku.

The natural hot spring water is rich in minerals and said to relieve fatigue.

Getting There: It takes about 110 minutes from Haneda or Narita airports to Kagoshima Airport or 70 minutes from Kansai International Airport. From Kagoshima Airport, take the bus for Kaseda in central Minamisatsuma (75 minutes). Cycling Terminal Rin Rin, a bike rental facility and lodge, is a oneminute walk from Kaihin Onsen-mae Bus Stop.

ABOUT JAPAN ECO TRACK

M o n t b e l l — J a p a n’ s l a r g e s t homegrown outdoor brand and retailer—started a series of events in 2009 called Sea to Summit. The goal was to invigorate local areas, holding events to experience nature through canoeing, cycling, trekking and other human-powered move me nt. W hile t he s e eve nt s continue to be held in beautiful areas around Japan, the natural progression was to provide information and guides so travelers could experience these areas throughout the year at their own pace while learning the history and culture of the region and interacting with locals.

Japan Eco Track guides contain maps with designated routes of var ying dif ficulty levels. Each guide includes information on local restaurants, guides, tour operations and other attractions. Along Japan Eco Track routes there are support stations located at affiliated stores a n d maj o r t r a n s p o r t at i o n h u b s such as train stations, airports and michi no eki (rest areas). Discounts and special of fer s are available at par ticipating loc ations when travelers show the Japan Eco Track booklet. There are more than 15 guides, with new areas being developed and offered in English. www.japanecotrack.net.

Published Seasonally

F r om t h eEdi t o r

A

lmost exactly half my lifetime ago I spent a year living in Saipan, a beautiful island that is part of the Commonwealth of the Northern Marianas, a chain of islands in Micronesia. This is where I began appreciating the underwater world. I started diving in the Pacific Northwest (cold!) and then Australia—warmer— Sydney Harbor was murky, but my first taste of tropical diving was just south of the Great Barrier Reef. I dove here and there in Southeast Asia, but Saipan was in a different league. Its nutrient-rich waters, fed by the bottomless Marianas Trench, were teeming with marine life.

We’d head out before work to Lau Lau or Obyan beaches, or, more often, descend the stairs into The Grotto. There was no better way to start off the day than swimming amongst parrotfish, clownfish, corals, octopus, anemones and reef sharks. If we were lucky we’d catch a glimpse of giant Napoleon wrasse or schools of jacks or barracuda coming into view from the deep. But, for me, the highlight of those dives was sharing them with one of the resident turtles. There is just something about diving alongside these ancient, beautiful creatures—for as long as they will tolerate you—before they give you a sideways glance and are gone, their grace and speed in the water a stark contrast to their clumsiness on shore. And there is something adorable about watching a baby turtle break out of their shell, take their first steps and then instinctively bolt for the water.

Okinawa Island, like Saipan, is surrounded by the deep blues of the Pacific and similarly saw some of the bloodiest battles of WW II. The prefecture’s largest island is almost exactly ten times the size of Saipan and, despite the heavy U.S. military presence and a healthy tourism industry, is home to the loggerhead, green and hawksbill sea turtles. While most are located on the less populated northern part of the island, perhaps due to the pandemic, they are returning to the central beaches like at the Sheraton Sunmarina Resort, which reported their return after a six-year hiatus. My family and I were fortunate to witness a turtle hatch at a beach nearby with Churamura, an NPO protecting the breeding grounds of the turtles in the area.

As travel restrictions ease in Japan, and as the world as a whole begins to emerge from our Covid hibernation, let’s hope these stories of Nature regaining lost ground can affect our decisions as we march toward normalcy. There’s no doubt we’ve all felt like we've taken many steps backward over the last couple years, but a couple steps back and one forward might just be the best way onward.

We hope you’ll seize the season, get outside and refresh yourselves during this golden season in Japan. Beautiful fall weather is working its way north to south with plenty of great things to do from grabbing a Pow Bar and hiking in Hokkaido to exploring mountain culture in Akita; mountain biking the ancient samurai trails in northern Shinshu to challenging climbs in Gunma; from exploring waterfalls and beaches in Kawazu to enjoying Kochi’s omotenashi hospitality. Enjoy Outdoor Japan’s latest Traveler magazine—our 80th issuse—and be grateful we get to live and travel in Japan, where every season is a new adventure!

—Gardner Robinson Editor-in-Chief

PUBLISHER Outdoor Japan G.K. DIRECTORS Mike Harris, Charles Odlin, Gardner Robinson FOUNDER / EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Gardner Robinson MEDIA PRODUCER / EDITOR Rie Miyoshi CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Bill Ross CONTRIBUTORS Brad Bennett, Tony Grant DESIGN Outdoor Japan

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Cover Photo: Grinduro Shin'etsu Japan

Autumn 2021 | 5

GUIDE LINES

Autumn Activities Many events have been postponed or canceled while some are still pending so check local listings before you go out and enjoy the golden season in Japan.

Baird Beer Harvest Fest Get out and enjoy the Halloween weekend in Izu at the Baird Brewery and Taproom in Shuzenji.

Baird will be celebrating the harvest season and Halloween with a costume contest and corn hole and live music from Tok yo’s More than Music and Chuzi’s, a local Shizuoka band. Beers will be priced at ¥600 at the outdoor taproom and there will be several food booths including pizza and grilled organic vegetables. There will also be fun workshops for the whole family like slackline and pottery.

When: Oct. 30-31 Where: Shuzenji Brewery Gardens, Shizuoka powersports.co.jp/osjtrail/21_ontake100

OMM Motosuko Japan OMM is one of the toughest adventure events out there. The mountain navigation race is held at different locations across Japan each year and prides itself in challenging competitors in extreme environment s. This year ’s race takes place in Yamanashi Prefecture at the foot of Mt. Fuji.

When: Nov. 12-14 Where: Motosuko, Yamanashi theomm.jp Check out Outdoor Japan's website and social me dia for up date s on autumn eve nt s, r ace s and news in Japan. Visit outdoorjapan.com.

Yuji Hirayama’s Urban Base Camp Opens in Shinjuku

If you were inspired by the per formances of the incredible rock climbing athletes at the Tokyo Olympics and want to get out there and climb yourself, we have some exciting news! Yuji Hirayama, Japan’s original international rock star, has opened a new bouldering gym in the heart of Tokyo. Yuji is a former World Cup Champion who has set speed records with his partner Hans Florine on the Nose of El Capitan, among his many other epic climbs and projects in Japan and overseas.

In 2010, Yuji opened his first gym in Iruma, Saitama where he is based. The Iruma facility is large with bouldering and set routes for lead climbing, while the Urban Base Shinjuku is a smaller space Yuji designed specifically for bouldering.

While there is a lot to challenge intermediate and advance climbers, the staff also cater to beginners and offer a “First Instruction” to show first timers how to enjoy bouldering safely. No reservation is necessary; visitors can inquire when they arrive.

Urban Base Camp Shinjuku Location: Three-minute walk from Seibu Shinjuku Station, five-minute walk from the West Exit of JR Shinjuku Station Hours: Weekdays 10 a.m. - 11 p.m.; Weekends and public holidays 10 a.m. - 10 p.m.

Tel: (0363) 04-0355 Address: Tokyo Sanko Park Bldg. B1F 7-3-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo 160-0023 b-camp.jp/shinjuku 6 | TRAVELER

Mountain Biking Fall colors and dry trails—autumn is the season for mountain biking in Japan. Get out and enjoy some cross country or downhill riding before the snow falls. Be sure to confirm hours and operations before going.

Rusutsu Mountain Bike Park (Hokkaido) This famous ski resor t features jumps, b a n k s a n d m o r e t h a n t w o k il o m e t e r s o f downhill trails. You can also enjoy the Ginto Village Trail in Niseko, a flow trail free to the public.

When: July to mid-Oct. grand-hirafu.jp/summer/mtb_lp

Chichibu Takizawa Cycle Park (Saitama) This park is primarily for BMX riders and racers, but there’s also a slalom and training cour se (tot al 1,0 0 0 meter s) for mount ain bikers.

When: Apr. 1 to Nov. 30 city.chichibu.lg.jp

Gozenyama (Ibaraki) Ride cross country in Ibaraki. The eight kilometers loop is especially popular. A bright red bridge serves as a local landmark where trails begin and end.

When: Year round

Fujiten (Yamanashi) The Dark Volcano Course is unique to this location as it is at the foot of Mt. Fuji and utilizes the region’s lava soil for more advanced technical rides.

When: May 1 to Nov. 3 summer.fujiten.net/pc Fujimi Panorama MTB Park (Yamanashi) This is one Japan’s largest mountain bike parks. Take the gondola up to the summit at 1,780 meters for up to eight kilometers of downhill riding.

When: Apr. 29 to Nov. 14 fujimipanorama.com/mtb/en

Fujiten

Takamineyama MTB World (Ibaraki) From the original take off at the top, catch a view of Mt. Kaba, Mt. Tsukuba and the first wave of peaks overlooking the Kanto Plain.

Each year Takamine adds new courses and features to the bike park and is popular with expert riders. Mountain bikers can also enjoy a ladder section near the bottom.

When: Year round takamineyama.com

Hakuba Iwatake (Nagano) Enj oy f i ve maj o r t r ail s i n c l u d i n g t h e Kamikaze Downhill, with an elevation of 1,272 meters, and the Cross Country Course through Iwatake Forest.

When: Apr. 29 to Nov. 14 nsd-hakuba.jp/iwatake_mtb_park

Nozawa Onsen Sports Park (Nagano) The new Nagasaka Gondola gets you to the top in just nine minutes, from where you can enjoy ten kilometers of downhill trails for various levels to the Hikage Station, Kids Park and Summer Skiing area.

When: July - Nov. grand-hirafu.jp/summer/mtb_lp Yatsugatake Cycling (Nagano) The seven-kilometer course will take you on old forest roads and through pastures exceptional in full bloom. Yatsugatake Cycling offers rentals, tours and self-guided tours in the area.

When: Apr. to Nov. yatsugatakecycling.com

DK Freeride Mountain Bike Logic (Shizuoka) T his p ar k is d e s ig ne d s p e cif ic ally to improve MTB skills and features turns, jumps, pumps and drops. It’s also the only MTB park in Japan where you can practice jumping using airbags.

When: Year round joyridemtbpark.com

All American, American. all the time.

Kannai

Yamabushi Trail Tour (Shizuoka) This trail follows an unused ancient trail on the Izu Peninsula. Ride 40 kilometers down from the mountains to the sea. Yamabushi Trail Tour offers tours and rentals.

When: Year round yamabushi-trail-tour.com

Atera MTB Park (Aichi) This course is maintained by riders for riders and designed for both beginners and advanced riders. Registration is based on a trust system as the park is unmanned.

When: All year Phone: 0532-41-8882

Yokohama

26ism (Aichi) T h e A s a g i r i Tr a i l i s a b e g i n n e r / intermediate path with ups and downs. The Kuragari Trail has steep gradients and narrow, tight lines.

When: Mar. 1 to Dec. 15 26ism.com

Trail Adventure (Kanagawa, Yamanashi, Saga) This fun flow trail is great for kids and beginners wanting to get a feel for mountain biking. It’s located near major cities and easy to access.

When: All year trailadventure.jp

Tokusagamine Wood Park (Yamaguchi) This small ski resor t of fers a beginner course in summer that is nearly two kilometers long with 50 meters elevation gain.

When: Mid-Apr. - Mid-Nov. woodpark.jp

Shinagawa Home delivery OK! Check our website!

Autumn 2021 | 7

FA L L I N L O V E W I T H

Kawazu

BY RIE MIYOSHI

Odaru Falls

T

he coastal town of Kawazu on the Izu Peninsula, Shizuoka Prefecture, seems to have it all: stunning waterfalls to hike, a river lined with Kawazu-zakura cherry blossoms in spring, wide beaches great for surfing and diving, and to top it off, outdoor hot springs overlooking impressive vistas. The proximity between the mountains and the ocean, onsen and the clear water cascading down the valley make Kawazu a hidden gem for outdoor enthusiasts.

KAWAZU'S SEVEN FALLS Kawazu’s most famous attraction is Nanadaru Falls, the seven waterfalls at the foot of the Amagi Mountains just above the town that received two stars from the Michelin Green Guides. These falls formed when a volcano called Noboriominami erupted approximately 25,000 years ago, creating dramatic rock formations by rivers, cliffs and beaches in the region, hence Izu Peninsula’s dramatic landscape.

8 | TRAVELER

In Kawazu, you can enjoy the rare experience of relaxing in an onsen right in front of a majestic waterfall. The impressive 30-meter Odaru Falls at the base of Nanadaru Falls is part of Nanadaru Onsen.

Guests can use the waterfall onsen, underground baths and private indoor baths.

To see the other waterfalls, follow an easy one-kilometer walking trail. Along the way, you’ll find statues depicting the heroine from Yasunari Kawabata's short novel “Izu no Odoriko” which is set in this area.

If you’re driving or taking the bus to these falls, you’ll most likely use the Kawazu Nanadaru Loop Bridge, an imposing and dizzying spiral bridge along National Route 414 high above the valley floor. You can take the bus to Odaru Iriguchi or Mizudare, although it’s recommended to start at Mizudare and make your way down to Odaru Iriguchi where most of the shops are.

PAID PUBLICITY

Funado no Banya

Wasabi The start of the walking trail from Odaru Falls is lined with wasabi and soba (buckwheat noodle) shops. The region produces high-quality wasabi (Japanese horseradish) thanks to Kawazu’s clear running mountain water.

“Water gives life to wasabi,” says Nobuaki Inaba, a wasabi farmer and owner of Wasabi-en Kadoya, popular for its wasabi-don (a simple yet surprisingly delicious dish of rice topped with bonito flakes and local wasabi). “You can’t grow good wasabi without clean water and abundant nature. Wasabi thrives here because of the nutrients in our rivers.”

Kawazu stays warm through to the end of October, but stays relatively subtropical year round. Visit early to mid-December for kouyou (autumn leaves changing color). The coldest months are in January and February, which is when you can see the Kawazuzakura cherry blossoms. The waterfalls are best viewed at end of May to June during rainy season when water levels are high.

“One of the best things about living in Kawazu is that you can really experience the seasons,” says Shoji Suzuki, owner of Aoki-no-Saka Ryokan Inn at the base of the loop bridge.

Suzuki and his wife enjoy Kawazu’s nature year round, whether it’s surfing at Imaihama Beach or hiking in the mountains. “It’s a place where the mountains, rivers and ocean come together.”

To get even closer to Kawazu’s waterfalls, Kura-Run Outdoors offers canyoning tours in a tributary of the Kawazu River. Although they only offer one course, this tour is a series of fun natural slides and small waterfalls.

Tours are available from end of May to October. Learn more at kura-run.com.

BEACHES AT KAWAZU Imaihama Beach is said to be one of the most beautiful shoal beaches in Izu. It’s only a two-minute walk from Imaihama Kaigan Station and near many ryokans. Imaihama is a shallow beach break with mixed sand and reef. There are waves year round but especially during spring to autumn. Surf shops like Soul Surf (Web: soulsurf.jp) provide board rentals and lessons.

E v e n i f y o u ’ re n o t s t a y i n g a t Imaihama, set aside an hour or so for Funado no Banya, an outdoor rotenburo bath overlooking the ocean.

It is not big, but its views make people feel as if they are floating in the sea.

At the base, there is a barbecue facility and ingredients such as local seafood.

As for nightlife, drop by Anagura, a unique bar built into a cave once used for mining stones for building the Edo Castle in Tokyo. The smaller Kawazuhama Beach is not as crowded with quiet, shallow waters good for swimming. It makes up for its lack of size with high-quality clear water, and is only a three-minute walk from Kawazu Station.

Further south, Shobuzawa Diving Center offers diving and snorkeling tours. Divers can enjoy wreck diving and see Ise-ebi lobsters, nudibranch, catsharks, sturgeons, stingrays, Japanese butterfish and schools of wrasses and horse mackerels. Night dives, beginner-friendly dives and snorkeling tours are also available.

Learn more at shobuzawa.com.

GETTING THERE Kawazu sits on the southeastern coast of the Izu Peninsula in Shizuoka Prefecture and is a three-hour drive or train ride from Tokyo. While the locals take pride in the Kawazu-zakura that attract thousands every February, Kawazu can be enjoyed year round over three to four days. The best way to get to Kawazu is the train to Kawazu Station on the Izukyu Line. You can also travel in style on the JR Odoriko Limited Express Train direct from Tokyo, Shinagawa, Kawasaki and Yokohama stations.

While it’s recommended to rent a car, the town itself is walkable and there are buses direct to attractions such as Kawazu Nanadaru Falls (one way costs ¥670) and local trains.

As Kawazu has long been a beach, mountain and hot spring resort, there are many types of accommodation including traditional ryokan with hot springs, backpacker guesthouses and family-friendly B&Bs. For more information, visit exploreizu.com. v

Autumn 2021 | 9

BY GARDNER ROBINSON

"A

ccidental Conservation” was a term I first heard used referring to Hanford, a nuclear site in Washington State—part of the infamous Manhattan Project—that leaked radiation into the air and the Columbia River years ago. Many decades after being decommissioned, and off limits, it has transformed itself into a nature reserve. The environmental disaster at Chernobyl was similarly abandoned by humanity and now nature has taken over there too.

While the Covid-19 pandemic was not a singular catastrophic event of this magnitude, the affects worldwide on the environment may be much wider reaching. There have been reports throughout the world of animals returning to places they haven’t been seen in recent years. In Japan, for instance, there was a significant spike in bear incidences in 2020; this could be due to various environmental factors such as availability of food in the mountains (beech nuts make up a large part of their diet) or abandoned farmlands, due to urbanization and an aging society, that once acted as buffer zones between the bears and people.

The simplest theory this past eighteen months is animals are benefiting from the absence of humans in their habitat: less noise, activity and pollution driving them away. This seems particularly true in waterways including the ocean.

10 | TRAVELER

“The decrease in boat traffic, jet skis—even lights on in hotels—and tourists swimming in the ocean covered in sunscreen, which marine animals can detect, all contribute to marine life returning to waters they’ve been staying away from,” says Carl Bastian, director of Churamura, an NPO started in May 2020 to protect sea turtles and their nesting areas in Okinawa.

Growing up on Australia’s gold coast, Bastian spent countless hours in the ocean. He had a keen interest in marine biology and joined a work experience program at Sea World there, but admittedly wasn’t overly ambitious. He and his two older brothers grew up while a recession had a grip on the Australian economy and Japan’s bubble still had a bit of air left in it.

“I wasn’t overly academic, or super keen on languages but I figured I needed to gain some skills, so I began studying Japanese and stuck with it for five years,” he said. His proficiency qualified him for a study abroad program in Odawara, another coastal town about an hour south of Tokyo. In 1999, he did a working holiday program in Japan and then continued his studies at Kinki University in Kansai.

Like many long-term foreign residents here, he never left.

His career has been centered around hospitality and has taken him to Gunma to manage a 30room hotel, to Tokyo as F&B manager at the Tokyo American Club and finally to Okinawa where he helped open the Kafuu Resort. Today, he continues to consult hotels in sustainability. After 22 years in Japan and twelve in Okinawa, his background in hospitality, sustainability and marine biology meshed when they discovered those footprints in the sand.

“After we found the first turtle nest, we roped off the area and left a sign with my phone number.

The next day someone called after finding another set of footprints, then a few days later another, then another. In the end there were thirteen nests on the beach, which was unprecedented. We called around to various organizations, to the prefectural and village offices, the aquarium and fisheries, but we couldn’t find anyone taking care of turtles in the area. We use the beach all the time and felt a responsibility to do something,” he adds.

This call to action was the start of Churamura ("beautiful village" in the local dialect). Soon, eleven

OKINAWA ISLAND BEAT

dedicated members, with the authority of local law enforcement and the village, were patrolling the coastline every morning and night during nesting season from May to August, making sure people were not disturbing the turtles or nests.

“Only one in a thousand turtles survive the journey from hatching to adulthood, so they can use all the help they can get,” Carl notes. “We’ve had nests too close to the shoreline and seen others in vulnerable locations destroyed by typhoons.

Relocating the nest is a very slow, difficult process.

Eggs have to be marked, numbered and put back in the same order or they won’t hatch,” he continues.

Churamura conducts monthly beach cleans at different locations throughout the island to clear the beaches of dangerous debris. They visit schools as part of their community outreach program and talk to students about turtle conservation. They also are starting up an Ocean Rangers program to educate youth about SDGs (sustainable development goals), being environmentally conscious and teaching them valuable ocean skills and responsibility.

These grass roots programs are crucial to get the message into people’s homes so kids can put pressure on their parents, local wives can put pressure on their husbands and local politicians feel the pressure and see conservation as good for business and long-term growth of the economy.

Okinawa Whale Watching If you are looking for something to do this winter that doesn’t involve sliding down a mountain, whale watching in Okinawa might just be your speed. Witness humpback whales and their calves in their natural habitat with Marine House Seasir’s experienced captains who know the best locations to spot whales while keeping a safe distance so as to not frighten them. Tours include digital copies of photos taken of the whales on your tour (free of charge) and round-trip pickup from your accommodation.

Seasir is a Naha-based company guiding fun, safe tours to visitors in Okinawa since 1983. Whale watching boats go out every day from mid-January to March with half-day tours starting at 8 a.m. and 1 p.m. lasting about three hours. Price is ¥4,500 for adults and ¥3,500 for children.

To book, call (098) 869-4022 or visit seasir.com.

Over the next five years they plan to create a turtle rescue center that will serve as a hatchery and rehab center.

“About 80% of the turtles hatch if the nest is protected—safe from typhoons, camp fires, 4WDs and crabs getting into the nests. Twenty percent need help, which we can provide by nurturing them until they are big enough to avoid predators in the water, such as mahi-mahi which can devour a whole nest,” Carl says.

They also hope to help create a ranger network similar to the National Park and Wildlife Service with the power to enforce fines for littering and keeping parks and beaches clean. Ultimately Churamura’s mission is to create the first marine sanctuary dedicated to the protection of critically endangered sea turtles in Japan. It may seem like a long shot, but it is nothing compared to the odds the sea turtles face year after year.

If you’d like to help support the cause, Churamura has several ways to get involved.

They welcome individual donations and can help facilitate CSR (corporate social responsibility) programs for companies looking to make a difference. For details visit churamura.org or visit their Facebook page for updates at facebook. com/churamura. v

Fun Diving in the Keramas The Kerama National Marine Park features some excellent water visibility (30 to 40 meters), a rich diversity of marine life and is home to 248 species of corals. Join a full-day tour with Seasir, a PADI 5-Star Instructor Dive Resort that is part of the Japan Recreational Diving Association. All instructors are licensed professionals. Fun dive tours are available for first-time to advanced divers (who go out on different boats for increased safety and comfort) and a level check is done if it is your first visit. Advanced divers can opt for drift diving and night diving tours as well. Tours depart at 8 a.m. and are ¥16,480 per person.

Autumn 2021 | 11

T R A C K I N G A K I TA ' S

Matagi Hunters

BY RIE MIYOSHI

A

chilly breeze runs through the deep forests of Mt. Moriyoshi, signaling the coming winter for the Matagi. Ani Village is said to be the spiritual home of the Matagi, Akita’s traditional bear hunters who follow 400-year-old sacred rituals for living and hunting in the rugged nor thern mountains.

Legend has it that a young hunter saved a mountain goddess from another deity that had taken the form of a giant snake. He was rewarded with a scroll granting him and his descendants the right to hunt throughout Japan.

The name “Mat agi” is said to have many meanings and origins, and its culture shares many similarities with the Ainu of Hokkaido. For example, in the Ainu language, matangi or matangitono means “man of winter” or “hunter.” The name is also said to depict the abundance and nature of the four seasons. The Matagi practice kebokai, a ritual to give thanks for the bear and return it to its ancestors, similar to the Ainu iyomante bear sacrifice. They practiced sustainability and zero waste long before these buz z words became ubiquitous with marketing professionals.

The Matagi continue to treat their hunting grounds with awe and respect. Before every hunt, they go to the temple to pray for protection and offer morobi made of fir branches. The morobi is smoked; its scent is said to ward off impurities and evil and remove the smell of the village from the hunter’s body.

When hunting a bear, the Matagi enter the fores t, usually in a group of eight, and wor k together to track and hunt the creature. This can take up to t welve hours. Apar t from the rifle, they also use traditional tools like the nagasa, a machete-knife tool, and kanjiki, traditional snow shoes made out of straw and ropes. The bear is killed as swiftly as possible, usually in one shot, so as to cause the least suf fering. Its meat is divided equally between the hunters and part of its intestines is left as an offering to the mountain.

Every part of the bear is used and the Matagi never hunt more than needed.

T h e r e u s e d t o b e a r o u n d 12 0 M a t a g i i n the Moriyoshi area of Ani Village. Today, that community has dwindled to 20, mostly elderly hunters. The youngest member of the group is the enterprising Hideyuki Oriyama. The 38-year-old Matagi was born and raised in Akita, and like most Japanese youths, moved to Tokyo for work and to pursue a career in video production.

12 | TRAVELER

D ur ing t he 2011 Tohoku ear t hquake and tsunami, Oriyama struggled to find basic needs like diapers for his then three-month-old daughter; his parents in Akita sent them diapers and food for a month. He quickly realized Tokyo didn’t have its own resources and within four months, he packed up his family and went back to Akita.

When he returned, a friend introduced him to Kaiko no Mori, a novel about the Matagi. Curious about this culture and how close it was to home, Oriyama arranged to walk the mountains with a Matagi guide. He was so inspired by this traditional lifestyle, he chose to try and become a Matagi himself.

“Matagi culture is something you learn and experience by being part of the community and learning from other Matagi,” says Oriyama. “There isn’t any course or certificate, or any point where they suddenly announce that you’re a Matagi.”

Becoming a Matagi means it af fec t s your everyday life: living self sufficiently, being careful, focusing on exact in movements, understanding the mountains and nature, and most importantly, revering the spirituality. Oriyama experienced this first hand on his first hunt.

HIGHLIGHTS

“After hours of tracking, we finally found the bear. We were ten meters apart; I was so nervous staring into its face. Just then, the bear turned its head away and angled the back of his neck at me. I felt like it understood what was going on, and gave me permission to shoot,” remembers Oriyama. “I felt very thankful and was in awe at the power of nature.”

In 2018, he opened Oriyamake, a guesthouse where travelers can experience Matagi life and par ticipate in workshops. Oriyama wanted to raise awareness of this dying tradition and change assumptions about Matagi.

“People think that all we do is hunt bears, but we actually only hunt them less than two months of the year: in early winter before they hibernate and early spring when they wake up,” says Oriyama.

“The rest of the year we're taking care of the forest.

In spring, we’re foraging for mountain vegetables, fishing in summer and picking mushrooms in autumn.”

Oriyamake has gar nered the at tention of inbound visitor s, and Oriyama hopes he c an continue sharing the legacy of this local tradition when international borders open back up. He also hopes to hire young people and teach them about Matagi, as there has been increased interest.

The guesthouse is open year round and offers a plethora of activities from mushroom picking in autumn, canoeing, stargazing, making local delicacies kiritanpo and butter mochi, knife making, animal tracking and barbecuing game they’ve hunted, such as deer and pheasants. To book your stay, visit oriyamake.com.

Matagi Museum and Matagi-no-Yu This museum displays authentic Matagi items such as hunting tools and clothing. The adjacent Matagi-no-Yu’s all-natural hot spring is fed directly from the source.

Akita Dog Visitor Center Animal lovers will recognize the name “Akita” from the famous Hachiko story. Akita dogs are large, powerful, yet affectionate dogs originating from the Odate area. In the past, they were used for guarding royalt y and as sis ting on hunt s.

Located outside Odate Station, this center features a Akita dog museum, gift shop and, best of all, an area to meet the dogs themselves.

Mt. Moriyoshi At 1,454 meters high, this mountain is one of the highest points in Akita and is famous for juhyou, “snow monsters” formed by ice sticking to trees making the forest look like a Yeti army. The best time to see this phenomenon is January and February at Ani Ski Resort. Other peak visiting seasons are May to July for the wild flowers and October for kouyou. Although closed in winter, Moriyoshi Ski Resort's lift runs in the off season from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. for hikers.

Ani Ski Resort This hidden gem of a ski resort is located on Mt. Moriyoshi and has it all: powder, tree skiing, minimal crowds, and snow monsters in mid-winter.

The ski season runs from early December to late March. Don’t forget to say hi to the resident Akita dog Hokuto.

Yasu Falls This two-tiered waterfall is a 90-meter drop in the upper reaches of the eight-kilometer stretch of Nakanomata Gorge. It is exceptional in early to mid-October during kouyou season when the leaves change color.

Lake Taihei Another popular spot to view the autumn leaves is this ar tificial lake created along with Moriyoshi Dam. Anglers enjoy this lake for its abundance of cherry salmon, char, carp and pond smelt.

Local Delicacies Warm up with kiritanpo, freshly cooked rice pounded and formed into cylinders, skewered and toasted. They are then served with sweet miso or stewed with meat and vegetables. Apples are also famous during this season.

GETTING THERE From Tokyo, Haneda Airport to Odate Noshiro Airpor t takes just 70 minutes. By shinkansen, take the Tohoku-Hokkaido or Akita bullet train to Morioka Station (two hours and ten minutes), then the Shuhoku bus for Odate (two hours and twenty minutes). You can also take the Tohoku-Hokkaido bullet train to Kakunodate Station, then take the scenic Akita Nairiku Line Railway (two hours and 30 minutes) to Takanosu Station. For more information, go to visitakita.com. v

Autumn 2021 | 13

BEYOND THE BRAND

INTE RV IE W

W ITH

PO W

M E G U M I

B A R

F O U ND E R

S C O T T

WITH BRAD BENNETT

G

rowing up in Koshimizu, near the Shiretoko Peninsula in Eastern Hokkaido, Megumi Scott spent a lot of time outdoors hiking and camping with her parents and older brothers.

As she became more serious about hiking, she started taking notes about her trail mixes, nutrition and the effects they had on her body. This was the beginning of her journey to test the limits of "fuel for movement.”

She noticed a lot of foreign and domestic energy bars had too much sugar and processed foods, including dairy products. Combining her passion for the outdoors, literature and healthy food—and with help from Sam’s Bike Shop in Sapporo and their licensed kitchen—she set out to create a healthier alternative.

14 | TRAVELER

Brad Bennett: When did you discover your passion for food and the outdoors?

Megumi Scott: I was led to this path early. My father loves the mountains and from a young age we would spend weekends hiking and camping in Hokkaido's mountains. My mother loves cooking and baking and by age six, I was helping her in the kitchen. She said I would sneak into the kitchen and try to make things on my own.

BB: And this continued as you got older?

MS: Yes, when I was young I could remember everything about any children’s book that had food in it. I studied Japanese literature at university and I kept getting drawn to books that mentioned food.

I started searching out old books that referenced food and diets. In my fourth year, I wrote my final paper on traditional Japanese diets and foods. My professor was surprised by the topic I researched, but I passed.

BB: Did this lead to work in food or nutrition?

MS: No, after university I worked for an outdoor company. There was a strong mountain culture and the staff were pros. When I first began hiking with these serious mountain people I was very tired and it was difficult to keep up. I wanted to increase my skills and knowledge of the mountains so I could enjoy it more and be better at my job.

I set a goal to do a multi-day solo hike, focusing first on my gear and cutting weight with more technical (and expensive) equipment. After spending a lot of money on better, and lighter gear, I still wasn’t satisfied. Then I started thinking about my body, noticing how I was breathing while pushing hard. How was my body feeling? How did I feel after eating different foods—a rush of energy then a crash, even balanced energy? Was my stomach upset?

BB: Searching for the perfect “fuel for movement.”

MS: Yes, while I was thinking about how food affects performance while being active, I remembered a story from 150 years ago. The Japanese government invited a German doctor to Nikko in Tochigi Prefecture. On his first trip from Tokyo he was taken by horse-drawn carriage. The horses needed to be changed six times during the journey. The second trip, he was carried by messengers who traveled fourteen hours over mountain passes without stopping. He noticed they were only eating brown rice onigiri, sour plum, pickles—simple, whole food diets.

He was amazed, but thought they could be even stronger if they ate meat. He asked if he could experiment with their diet. Once he introduced meat into their diet, they could no longer travel the same distance, so they changed back to their normal diet. I thought about the Japanese diet today compared to this simple diet of the past. We have so many choices, many with additives to help my performance. But, are they better than the simple, natural foods?

I started to test my body during hiking. What foods worked for long distances? Could I strip away unnecessary foods? I noticed I felt bad when I ate most energy foods available from outdoor shops (gels, energy bars, powders etc.) or sweets and normal snacks at the combini.

BB: The beginning of the Pow Bar journey?

MS: Yes, I continued to study food, and learned about sugar balance in the blood. You also need good minerals and nutritional balance to perform well. I began looking at natural ingredients and noticed they naturally have this balance. You don’t need to add anything to get it.

I began eating only natural products, like nuts, dried fruits and kombu while hiking. I started feeling great; I didn’t get tired so easily and felt both mentally and physically more energized. At the same time my energy levels felt more stable and balanced, instead of having a big energy boost, then crashing.

Autumn 2021 | 15

BEYOND THE BRAND

I also changed from sports drinks to water. If I eat weird and unnatural ingredients, I can sometimes get a quick boost, but afterwards my body must work hard to digest and break down these things. Once I noticed my body ran more efficiently with these natural ingredients, I started to test and refine the best combinations and ratios of these ingredients for hiking, while aiming for something convenient and easy to carry in the mountains.

BB: What were you looking for?

MS: I wanted to create a bar made with natural and vegan ingredients, something professional athletes would use—if pros would can eat it, then everyone would, I thought. I wanted it to be easy to chew and swallow while working hard (something that wouldn’t stick in your mouth and teeth or make my jaw hurt from chewing too much). And I didn’t want the bar to melt or get too sticky in summer or freeze and become hard in the winter.

BB: Was it difficult to find the right combination?

MS: First, I tried trail mixes with dried fruits and nuts. This worked much better than other mountain food available, but, to make it easier to digest, I tried grinding all the ingredients together to make a bar. This was better to chew and swallow while exercising, and also easier on your stomach. After making several flavors that performed well and tasted great, I began shaping them into bar sized portions so they were convenient to take into the mountains.

BB: How were those initial Pow Bars received?

MS: Friends and acquaintances started asking for the bars and then some small specialized outdoor shops. Since then, we have been steadily growing, and hope to help many people find easily accessible energy food that is good for their body.

BB: What flavors are available for people wanting to try Pow Bars?

MS: We developed four flavors, each distinct in taste to keep your mouth interested depending on

16 | TRAVELER

your mood, season or preference.

I'm very sensitive to how I feel while eating food, so Pow Bar flavors and packaging correlate to seasonal feelings while out in nature. Fruit & Nut crunch is like a sunset or sunrise in the mountains. Cacao & Coconut feels like a blanket of snow over the mountains—the rich chocolate taste is nice in winter. Tahini & Date is a fresh river in spring and blue sky in the mountains. Fig & Hazelnut feels like a lush green forest in summer (moss, ferns, trees).

BB: What’s next?

MS: Our goal for the future is helping educate people about what they eat, how it affects their performance and how they feel. We would also like to be a path towards positive social change—natural ingredients that are ethically sourced, sustainable packaging (using less plastic) and an environmentally conscious manufacturing process.

POW BAR The Pow Bar Cafe opened in Niseko Town in 2019, serving up tasty and wholesome food, using only the best natural ingredients. If you’d like to try Pow Bars, visit their website or look for them at your favorite outdoor shop or heath food store.

Address: 77-16 Aza Motomachi, Niseko-machi, Abuta-gun, Hokkaido 048-1511 Phone: (0136) 55-6739 E-mail: info@thepowbar.com IG/FB: @thepowbar thepowbar.com v

A Glass Half Full (OF CIDER)

C

ider, or rather hard cider—the alcoholic version—has enjoyed a steady climb in popularity and accessibility in Japan the last few years. Despite the excessive challenges that Covid-19 has placed on the food and beverage industry, the number of domestic cider makers as well as bars and bottle shops offering selections of cider continues to grow.

One of the biggest challenges living in Japan during the state of emergencies has been refraining from going out— particularly to places serving alcohol. So what to do, especially now that autumn is upon us, harvest time and one of the best seasons to travel? Without knowing what the future holds before this issue reaches readers, Iet's be hopeful and look at several cider-related venues worth visiting once you are able to go.

CIDERNAUT Cidernaut is located in Shibuya's Kamiyacho District, just a ten-minute walk from Shibuya Station. It boasts 12 taps, ten of them dedicated to cider (the other two beer). In addition to an impressive list of both domestic and imported ciders, you will also find a decent range of food, from various homemade bagel sandwiches to buffalo wings, chicken and chips.

Cidernaut is spacious, the staff can communicate in English and there are plenty of other places to explore nearby.

It is open daily from lunch until closing time, and highly recommended if you're in the mood for good food and cider. Web: facebook.com/cidernaut Kitazawa Konishi

Sanity Beer

J A PA N IN CIDER

BY LEE REEVE

KITAZAWA KONISHI You can find bottle shop Kitazawa Konishi in Shimokitazawa, the neighborhood famous for its laid-back vibes and bohemian cool. Locally referred to as “Shimokita,” it's often considered the city's hippest suburb with its narrow winding streets dotted with eclectic cafés, second-hand clothing stores, vintage record shops, miscellaneous art galleries, live houses and bars.

Opened in 1931, Kitazawa Konishi is a mecca for those looking to get their hands on hard-to-find fresh imported craft cider and beer. The husband-and-wife owners are thoroughly knowledgeable about the brands they carry and genuinely enjoy sharing what they know with customers.

Kitazawa Konishi is open every day except Tuesdays. Web: kitazawakonishi.com SANITY BEER Of the three shops mentioned, Sanity Beer is the newest, having opened their doors in September in Sangenjaya. This area in Setagaya-ku is home to a plethora of restaurants, bars, and cafés. Just a hop, skip and jump from Sangenjaya Station on the Den-en-toshi Line, Sanity Beer currently offers ten taps, with at least one for cider, and a refrigerator-lined wall of drinkable goodies, one section being exclusively cider options.

Clean, chic, and clever in concept, it's no wonder Sanity Beer is quickly becoming the latest must-go-to. Web: facebook.com/sanity.beer JAPAN CIDER MARKET If the time’s not right to get out or you just prefer staying at home, fear not, simply order from Japan Cider Market, the country’s first online shop specializing in the highest quality imported ciders from Australia, UK and USA. In addition to more than reasonable shipping prices, their website is fully functional in English and Japanese and orders are, in most cases, delivered the next day. Web: japancidermarket.com ABOUT THE AUTHOR Lee Reeve is an international cider consultant and the publisher of inCiderJapan, Asia’s first and only bilingual magazine dedicated to all things cider. He frequently speaks at worldwide cider events on the subject of Japan’s cider history, current scene, and growing industry. He is also an importer and distributor of world-renowned ciders.

Autumn 2021 | 17

DNE

BY GAR

N R ROBI

SON

If Takeda Shingen and Uesugi Kenshin were alive today, there’s a good chance they would be chasing each other around Mt. Madarao on double suspension mountain bikes with fat, stubby tires. Kenshin was one of the most famous daimyo during the Sengoku Period (1467-1615)— a turbulent era marked by social and political upheaval and civil war. His battles for control of Shinano Province (today’s Nagano Prefecture) with Shingen, another great samurai at the time, were legendary. More recently, another tribe of (weekend) warriors are kicking up dirt on these ancient trails.

U

esugi Kenshin was from Echigo (modern-day Niigata) and used the trails in and around Mt. Madarao to cross the Sekida Mountains into Nagano for his epic battles against Takeda Shingen upon the plains of Kawanakajima. Neither of these warlords would ultimately claim a clear victory, but the ferocity and strategic warfare romanticized in this series of battles have become immortalized in Japanese literature and ukiyoe (woodblock prints).

“We could see they went all the way up to near our lodge, so we started clearing the trail and riding it. One day I was riding alone and ran into an old farmer who was as surprised to see me as I was him.

We chatted and he told me about the history of an abandoned village called Kutsu which was on an old tourist road up to Madarao.”

"Engage in combat fully determined to die and you will be alive; wish to survive in the battle and you will surely meet death."—Uesugi Kenshin The historic trails in the Sekida Mountains around Mt. Madarao were not only a conduit for warfare; they were also the arteries that carried the life of the local people, transporting commerce and culture: dried fish, salt, gold, medicine and Buddhism.

While this patchwork of well-connected paths were used for centuries by villagers and battlehardened samurai, it wasn’t until recently some of these ancient trails were uncovered and given new life by another tribe of (weekend) warriors— mountain bikers.

"I was exploring some trails with friends below our lodge and discovered some old rice fields, abandoned buildings—including a school, says long-time Madarao resident Mark Stahnke, who runs Madarao Mountain Lodge with his wife Mayuko and daughter Hana.

18 | TRAVELER

Until the establishment of Madarao Ski Resort in 1972, the grassland in Madarao was used to raise cattle and the trails were perfect for bringing the cows up to the summer pastures. One of the best mountain bike trails is known as the “Cow Trail.” Its winding curves formed by the movement of the cows uphill are now perfect berms for bikers descending down the hill to Iiyama. The Cow Trail was recently used in the Maduro MTB event.

"The trail also goes through another old village called Bundo, which was home to Madarao Sympathique Ski Resort until it closed in 2012,” Mark continues. “We took some bottles of sake down to locals to ask permission to use the trails.

The kucho (head of the village) told us it was one of the first resorts in Japan; it even hosted the National Championships nearly a century ago.”

Photo: Grinduro Shin'etsu Japan

s s l i l i a a r r T ii T a a r r u u m m a a S S e e h o h o T a T a r r a a d d a a M M . . t t M o off M

wanakajima

The Battle of Ka shige depicting ro Hi a aw ag Ut right. by Kenshin on the Woodblock print on the left and en ing Sh ); 60 (circa 15

While Mark and other Madarao locals uncovered, cleared and got permission to ride trails like The Cow Trail and Yama no Kami Trail, there are other ancient paths that follow gravel roads, forestry roads and fire roads that are still in use and maintained.

The Hokkoku Kaido old road that connected Tokyo to the gold mines on Sado Island during the Edo Period goes past the foot of Mt. Madarao on the Lake Nojiri side. The Gunpei Kaido, a trail that goes right through the middle of Madarao Mountain Ski Resort, was an old path used for transporting charcoal down the valley. It allowed the mountain people to forge a living in the harsh landscape.

In the eighteenth century, some commercially minded locals created an Edo-era version of a holiday resort in the wetlands in the middle of Madarao, now known as Numanohara. Known as Ogiwara-juku, this happening little hamlet peaked at around 75 houses from 1716 to 1735, and was no doubt a convivial stopover for travelers between Nagano and the coast. It was the beginning of tourism in the area.

Madarao’s forest trails and gravel roads have long been a place for adventure. Shin Kano, who runs the Giro

Photo b

Gravel Park, wanted to bring a bit more to the community with the Grinduro.

This unique event is part gravel-road race, part mountain-bike-style enduro, and covers everything from smooth pavement, gravel and single track in four timed segments. Grinduro is billed as a celebration of cycling with an emphasis on fun, with live music, camping and a festival atmosphere to go along with the race. The 2021 Grinduro has been re-scheduled for 2022 and a summer version of the event called the “Maduro" will be back next year when travel restrictions are expected to be lifted. Kano says the future goal is to make the Northern Nagano area, along with Nozawa Onsen and Hakuba, a real mountain biking destination for travelers in Asia.

This network of old roads and trails, Madarao resort’s location near the top of the mountain, and the local c o m muni t y w or k i n g t o g e t h e r h a s created a natural formula for a topnotch mountain biking destination.

Grab your bike, muster up some of that Shinano warrior-poet spirit and rediscover the old roads of Madarao for yourself.

"Knowledge is not power, it is only potential. Applying that knowledge is power. Understanding why and when to apply that knowledge is wisdom.”—Takeda Shingen

y Yoshih

iro Mats u

zawa

ESSENTIAL INFO GETTING THERE From Tokyo take the Hokuriku Shinkansen to Iiyama Station (110 minutes). Madarao Kogen is a 20-minute drive from JR Iiyama Station and visitors can put bikes on the bus to Madarao for ¥500. By car, it is 20 minutes from the Toyota-Iiyama IC on the Joshinetsu Expressway. Nozawa Onsen is just 40 minutes up the road and makes for a great day trip or combined long weekend of mountain biking and hot springs.

BEST TIME TO RIDE May until November although keep an eye on the weather during the rainy season (mid-June to early July) and typhoon season in late summer.

RENTALS Yama No Ie Information Center in Madarao has e-bikes and mountain bikes for rent. Giro Gravel Bike Park at Madarao Mountain Resort has mountain bike rentals (madarao.jp/ gravelbikepark) and the Shinetsu Shizenkyo Activity Centre at Iiyama Station has some great bike rental options including e-bikes (shinetsuactivity.jp).

ACCOMMODATION Madarao Mountain Lodge (Web: madaraoskilodge.com) is located near the top of the Cow Trail and makes a great base for exploring the area. They can help organize logistics for groups and other accommodation can be found at madaraomountainresort.com.

There is also great campground at the resort (madarao.jp/camp).

EVENTS Maduro (Summer): diatechproducts. com/grinduro/maduro.html Grinduro (Autumn): grinduro.com/ japan.php TOURS Shinano Discovery Tours offers half-day e-bike tours on the Hokkoku Kaido Old Road for ¥5,500. Details at shinanodiscovery.com.

Autumn 2021 | 19

Photo: Grinduro Shin'etsu Japan

Madarao's Big 10 trails A GUIDE TO MOUNTAIN BIKING MADARAO'S MAIN TRAILS

The Madarao Big Ten Trails are a mix of gravel roads, forest roads and single track trails. They vary in difficulty and fitness level so that there is something for people of all cycling levels.

#1 Lake Nojiri Back Door

#3 Bear Valley

#5 The Cow Trail

L a k e N o j i r i B a c k D o o r, a n intermediate ride mainly on gravel roads, winds around the back of Mt. Madarao and finishes at the clear waters of Lake Nojiri—perfect for a post-ride swim, SUP or canoe ride on those hot summer days.

TRAIL GRADE: 3 DISTANCE: 18 km.

COURSE TYPE: Graveller ESTIMATED TIME: 2 hours ELEVATION GAIN: 394 meters

T h e B e a r Va l l e y t r a i l i s a n intermediate-level gravel downhill trail that goes through logging tracks and rice fields that are predominantly off road. The trail ends in Iiyama City, where you can go for lunch at a local restaurant after the ride.

TRAIL GRADE: 3 DISTANCE: 13 km.

COURSE TYPE: Graveller ESTIMATED TIME: 1.5 hours ELEVATION GAIN: 75 meters

#2 Furusato Road

#4 Yama No Kami Downhill

The Cow Trail was the old road used to bring cows up to graze on the summer grass of Madarao Kogen. It has excellent natural berms formed by the movement of the cows up the hill. It is an advanced trail with extensive single track and steep sections. A guide is recommended and experienced riders only.

TRAIL GRADE: 5 DISTANCE: 3 km. ​COURSE TYPE: Downhill ESTIMATED TIME: 1 hour ELEVATION GAIN: 200 meters

Furusato Road is an intermediate level trail that is mainly gravel down through Wakui and Nagata villages. It passes Oike Pond and Madarao-noYu hot springs. Wakui Village has three great soba restaurants. Nagata Village is the birthplace of one of Japan's most famous song writers who penned “Furusato.” The trail ends at a temple on a river that is featured in his song.

TRAIL GRADE: 3 DISTANCE: 19 km. ​COURSE TYPE: Graveller ESTIMATED TIME: 2 hours ELEVATION GAIN: 288 meters

Yama No Kami Downhill follows a tight ridge down through a valley traditionally used for sumiyaki (charcoal making). It passes an ancient shrine locally known as "Yama no Kami” (God of the Mountain). It is an advanced trail with extensive single track and steep sections. For experienced riders only; a guide is recommended.

TRAIL GRADE: 6 DISTANCE: 9 km. ​COURSE TYPE: Downhill ESTIMATED TIME: 2 hours ELEVATION GAIN: 450 meters

#6 The Eight Monks Path Named after the legendary Eight Monks of Madarao or “Hachibozuka,” this is a beginner-level ride that is an easy introduction to downhill mountain biking and great for families. It follows the old Bundo Road down the hill along the scenic Kiyo River Valley. The ride finishes in Iiyama.

TRAIL GRADE: 2 DISTANCE: 11 km.

COURSE TYPE: Graveller ESTIMATED TIME: 1 hour ELEVATION GAIN: 19 meters

Grinduro Japan

20 | TRAVELER

#7 The Nozomi Grinder

#9 Tarumoto Circle

#10 Giro Gravel Bike Park

This is a tough, advanced gravel and single-track ride designed for hill climbers (and great on an e-bike) that visits beautiful Lake Nozomi before going down towards Okawa Village then straight back up the hill again. A guide is recommended and experienced riders only.

TRAIL GRADE: 4 DISTANCE: 10 km.

COURSE TYPE: Climber/Graveller ESTIMATED TIME: 2 hours ELEVATION GAIN: 400 meters

This ride starts at Yama No Ie Infor mation Center, goes out to the Numanohara wetlands, down to Tarumoto Village and then back up to Yama No Ie via Akaike Pond.

Tarumoto was an old onsen village on Mt. Madarao, but is now largely abandoned. It is a combination of gravel as well as largely unused bitumen back roads. It is a fun ride down and a long grind back up. This is a solid workout for advanced hill climbers or e-bikers.

TRAIL GRADE: 4 DISTANCE: 23 km.

COURSE TYPE: Climber ESTIMATED TIME: 3 hours ELEVATION GAIN: 643 meters

​T h e G i ro G r a v e l B i k e P a r k a t Madarao Ski Resort is run by the guys at Grinduro Japan. The park is designed with gravel bikes in mind with a system of courses within the ski resort suitable for families and beginner riders. It is an easy and safe introduction to off-road riding and is currently in the first stage of construction with plans to develop considerably over the next tow years. As it is within the ski resort, it costs ¥1,800 for adults and ¥400 for children. Rental bikes are also available. Visit madarao. jp/gravelbikepark for details.

For updated infor mation, GPS Maps, trail type and grade details, v i s i t M a d a r a o B i g Te n Tr a i l s a t madaraomountainresort.com/ madarao-big-ten-mtb-trails.html. v

#8 Okawa Shrine Run This is an intermediate ride that stays predominantly on gravel agricultural roads. The route is mostly downhill and goes past Lake Nozomi, Mt. Kenashi and the beautiful little village of Okawa and its shrine. The ride ends in Iiyama.

TRAIL GRADE: 3 DISTANCE: 20 km. ​COURSE TYPE: Graveller ESTIMATED TIME: 2.5 hours ELEVATION GAIN: 180 meters

Grinduro Japan

Autumn 2021 | 21

M MO ON NK K EE Y Y II N NG G A AR RO OU UN ND D O ON N

MYOUGI-SAN

BY TONY GRANT

22 | TRAVELER

T

hey say that Gunma climbers are a bit special…brave, made of tougher stuff than most. After all, it was climbers from the Gunma Mountaineering Association that made the first winter ascent of the Southwest face of Mt Everest back in 1993.

The conglomerate spires of the 1,103-meter Mt. Myougi might be a mere footnote in Gunma climbing history compared to that towering accomplishment, but it’s no less true that the folk who first approached, with a view to climbing on them, were made of stern stuff.

Dominating the view from the car window on the Joshinetsu Expressway around the MatsuidaMyougi interchange ( 松井田妙義 ), the twin ridgelines of Omote-Myougi and Ura-Myougi look like an archetypal Chinese landscape painting: sheer faces, jagged spires, trees clinging in isolation to crumbling summits. It’s inspiring stuff, and in terms of pure adventure, it’s probably the most bang for your buck that hikers can find in the Kanto area.

The two main ridgelines form two sides of an ancient volcanic caldera that has long-since collapsed. The hiking trails that thread their way along their crests appear as dotted lines on the hiking maps; a sure sign of excitement to come.

There are long chains on all the steeper blank sections, without which these summits would be the exclusive preserve of, well, Gunma climbers!

For the trails on the southern Omote-Myougi, the michi-no-eki ( 道 の 駅 or roadside station), on Route 196, is a good place to base yourself, with easy access to the nearby onsen (with rotenburo) and the famous Myougi Shrine. And there are gentler, less vertiginous trails available at the midway level up the mountain too, for those with less of a head for heights.

For the more adventurous among you, I recommend the traverse of the Ura-Myougi Ridgeline. The highlight of the day will undoubtedly be the ascent of the slightly overhanging chains to the top of the famous Chōsu-no-kashira ( 丁須ノ 頭). Like the Obelisk on Yamanashi’s Jizo-ga-take or the Tengu on the east side of Akadake, this large hammer-shaped rock is clearly visible from the expressway and train lines below, making for endless satisfaction every time you pass by the area.

As a cautionary note, I’d advise anybody wanting to hike or climb on Myougi to wear a helmet, and crucially, make sure you have a pair of fingerless cycling gloves or something similar. It gets sweaty in summer and autumn at these low elevations, and people have been known to slip off the chains, so leave your pride at home and take the standard precautions.

For the rock-climbers among you, don’t overlook the wonderful six-pitch “Migi-kante” route on the Kido Wall ( 木戸壁右カンテルート ) of Ura-Myougi.

It may only get a difficulty rating of 5.7, but as you get to know the rock of Mt Myougi you’ll quickly understand the world of adventure that can be contained within such a modest grade.

On a final note, the trees on Mt Myougi are not the usual cedar monoculture that Tokyo inhabitants are used to. In the autumn kouyou season the flanks of Myougi explode in reds, browns and yellows. It’s the perfect time of the year to explore Kanto’s finest mountain! v

TONY'S LATEST BOOK If you’ve always wanted to climb a classic alpine route i n J a p a n, b u t d i d n’ t k n ow w h e r e to s t a r t, c h e c k o u t Tony’s latest book, available in the the Amazon store, “10 Classic Alpine Climbs of Japan (Volume 2)”. The comprehensive book contains: • Full route descriptions, including transportation and access, for some of the best alpine climbs in the country.

• Route maps, topos and lots of photos to help with route-finding • Additional essays on Japanese maps and GPS apps, climbing grades in Japan, the climbing seasons here, rescue insurance and much more.

Autumn 2021 | 23

Rogier Uitenboo

gaart in his wash

Oki Beach

Washi & Omotenashi I N

K O C H I

BY RIE MIYOSHI

24 | TRAVELER

i studio

Shikoku Karst

K

ochi Prefecture looks like a horseshoe, stretching along the southern part of Shikoku Island. It is home to the “Ascetic Training” portion (temples 24-39) of the famous 88-temple pilgrimage called the Shikoku Henro. However, beyond these scenes of misty mountains and travelers walking ancient paths sticks-in-hand, Kochi has made a name for itself among outdoor enthusiasts who come to explore the mountains, valleys and subtropical beaches and waters.

The beauty of the region has attracted a growing number of craftsmen and lodge owners that have helped rejuvenate less-visited areas and are passionate about showcasing the hidden secrets of Kochi’s outdoors, rich culture and history. Kamikoya immerses visitors in the centuries-old local tradition of washi paper making while staying at a unique accommodation surrounded by forest land used to grow the plants for beautiful washi designs on display throughout the property. Kaiyu is a familyrun, oceanside getaway with a focus on natural remedies, locally sourced food, hospitality and adventures.

KAMIKOYA

Kamikoya, in the mountainous town of Yusuhara, is a modest two-story wooden house and workshop overlooking a hamlet. Long-time resident and nationally acclaimed washi artist Rogier Uitenboogaart creates here. He originally studied book binding back in his home country of the Netherlands, and discovered washi (traditional Japanese paper) during the process. The 66-year-old Dutch artist made his way to Japan forty years ago to learn more about washi and never left.

Washi has a nearly 1,500-year-old history in Japan. It was used widely in everyday life until the arrival of mass-produced, machine-made Western paper in the 20th century. Today, washi is more art

than commodity with a select few artists working to help keep this traditional paper relevant and evolving along with modern society.

“I think people were surprised and wondered why a Dutch guy was so interested in washi,” Uitenboogaart recalls. “But the locals were really open and willing to share with me what they knew.”

Kochi is one of Japan’s premier paper-making prefectures. Tosa-washi, the paper produced here, has a 1,100-year history with records showing it was once presented as a tribute to the emperor.

Uitenboogaart soaked up everything he could about this dying industry.

He eventually settled down in Yusuhara. The heavily forested area (it is 90% forest land) and culture inspired famous architect Kengo Kuma, who designed the Japan National Stadium for the 2020 Tokyo Olympics. Architects and designers from around the world have visited Yusuhara to see six of Kuma’s works here.

“We owe a lot to Kengo Kuma,” says Uitenboogaart, who produced wallpaper for the Kumo-no-Ue-no Hotel designed by the architect.

His washi has been used both for functional and artistic purposes. He transformed an ordinary room into a “cave” using massive sheets of washi and contouring them to accentuate textures and lighting in a pop-up gallery in Ginza. Despite his many accomplishments, Uitenboogaart remains humble, working hard to preserve the local environment.

“Washi is so intrinsically tied to nature—paper making is a seasonal process and you have to know when to plant, harvest and make the fibers,” explains Uitenboogaart. He chose Yusuhara for its cold, dry winters and pleasant summers. “The fibers that we use all come from plants; the water we use has to be really clean in order to make good paper.”

Autumn 2021 | 25

Kamikoya

Kamikoya is surrounded by shoulder-height kozo (mulberry) and mitsumata (edgeworthia) Uitenboogaart planted. He makes sure everything from the plants themselves to the other ingredients required for papermaking are natural, and avoids pesticides and unnecessary chemicals. By producing on a small scale and locally, Uitenboogaart ensures his paper production is environmentally friendly.

The on-site workshop allows guests to make their own paper and customize it by layering in flowers and leaves as decoration or adding other washi colors.

After decorating, the paper is pressed using a special stand, then left to drain overnight and dry naturally.

Kamikoya is also a guesthouse where travelers can immerse themselves in the natural environment of washi. The guesthouse houses one group at a time (up to four people) and is decorated with wallpaper, lamps and other artwork made from Uitenboogaart’s washi.

There is also a covered BBQ patio where guests can cook their own food.

Uitenboogaart is creating innovative ways to use washi, such as molding the paper into straws, cups and other tools. He is also working on edible washi paper—even though technically all washi paper is or should be edible, he laughs.

Uitenboogaart’s 36-year-old son Yo h e i i s h e l p i n g r a i s e a w a re n e s s about washi and manages Kamikoya’s marketing and branding.

“I don’t want people to assume washi is this distant, intimidating artwork and process,” says Yohei.

“At Kamikoya, we want to let people experience and see how they can

26 | TRAVELER

use washi in their everyday life. That’s why we teach them the process of making paper, then encourage them to use it to decorate at home, for example as a lampshade.”

One night at Kamikoya starts at ¥18,750 per guest. Visitors can experience kamisuki, a two-hour paper making workshop starting from beating the fiber (in-depth workshops are also available). To reserve or learn more, visit kamikoya-washi.com/en.

KAIYU

Further south, Kaiyu is an escape for ocean lovers on the shores of Oki Beach. But don't be fooled by Kaiyu's exterior. This seven-story bleachedwhite resort condominium was built back in the "Bubble Era," but what gives this place its charm is what’s inside: the family that runs Kaiyu, who is committed to sustainability and helping guests reconnect with nature.

After several decades of working overseas in hospitality, the ebullient M i t s u h i ro O k a d a m o v e d b a c k t o K o c h i f ro m B a l i t o t a k e o v e r h i s father’s hotel. Together with his wife Taeko, he transformed the interior i n t o a n u n p re t e n t i o u s h o t s p r i n g resort. Kaiyu literally translates to “ocean healing,” and Okada hopes that guests will be able to find solace here.

“I grew up on Oki Beach and have been swimming in these waters before I was even in elementary school,” Okada reflects. To this day he is an avid snorkeler and freediver. “I would catch fish and octopus and bring them home to my family. We started Kaiyu to share our lifestyle, taking time to appreciate nature and enjoy natural food.”

Yusuhara Town Librar

y designed by Kengo

Oki Beach is a one-and-a-halfkilometer stretch of white sand; a cozy, protected bay with subtropical, turquoise waters. Although there are moderate waves here, it’s far from any major city, so surfers willing to make the trek can enjoy having the waves to themselves. It’s also a spawning ground for endangered loggerhead turtles.

Okada guides guests to his favorite snorkeling spots where you can find sea turtles, eagle rays, pufferfish, nudibranch and many tropical fish. For a unique snorkeling experience, he also offers a cycling and snorkeling tour to a “secret river” in the mountains behind Kaiyu.

Guests can borrow snorkeling gear and surfboards for free. Ashizuri-Uwakai National Park is also a short drive away, a breeding ground for colorful marine life which also attracts whales, dolphins and sea turtles.

As mass development and food production spreads throughout the country, many guests who stay at Kaiyu are people who have recently developed allergies and are trying to find an all-natural getaway where they can heal their bodies.

“The family who’s staying here right now are temporarily escaping the fumigation in fields near their house,” explains Okada as a mother and two children run past. “Their bodies are very sensitive to chemicals, so when the farms started getting fumigated, they started getting nosebleeds!”

Out of the 70 rooms, 22 are run by Kaiyu while the rest are privately owned.

Each room is designed differently, but they all face the ocean and use local wood such as hinoki (Japanese cypress)

Kuma

mily

The Okada Fa

and sugi (Japanese cedar) and natural building materials that are not harmful to the body. Okada collaborates with local carpenters and WWOOFers (traveling volunteers through the World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms network) to give the hotel a new look.

Since Okada mainly works on the renovations himself and occasionally with a small team, renovation is still ongoing.

After a day outdoors, relax in the onsen facility that Okada built himself . The w a ter s o urc e i s o ne kilometer underground and contains hydrocarbonic acid and salt. The hydrocarbonic acid smoothens and moisturizes skin and the salt warms the body long after the bath. Firewood from demolished homes nearby is used to boil the hot spring water, making it more effective. It’s said that onsen water boiled with firewood does not cool as easily due to the far-infrared effect. Aside from the water, the granite stones in and lining the bathtub are said to emit far infrared rays, warming the body.

“We had one lady who lives nearby in Ashizuri and was battling cancer. She bathed in our onsen everyday for two months. Miraculously, the cancer left her body,” says Okada. “We’d like to believe the hot spring’s healing effects helped.”

For guests’ first night at Kaiyu, Taeko prepares a family-style feast in the main hall. She uses local ingredients a n d K o c h i ’s s p e c i a l t i e s : f r e s h l y caught bonito, and as many organic ingredients she can find including tofu, ginger, garlic, onions and salad greens.

Dinner is served on a big table made from upcycled wood.

“Before the pandemic, we fed twenty guests at a time,” remembers Okada. “But I think eight is best number of people. We can all sit around this table comfortably and communicate. It has a more intimate feeling, like you’re eating with family or close friends.”

To make sure every guest gets the opportunity to enjoy this dinner, guests alternate eating at the hotel. Each room has a kitchenette and there are several izakayas and restaurants a short drive away.

Kaiyu accepts reservations through their website, and continues to accept a small number of guests so travelers can enjoy Oki Beach’s peace and quiet. Depending on the room, it costs between ¥9,000 to ¥23,000 per night (additional ¥2,500 per person) and is discounted during off seasons and for longer stays. Family dinner is by reservation only. To reserve or learn more, visit en.kaiyu-in.com.

Dinner at Kaiyu

GETTING THERE Kochi Ryoma Airport is an hourand-a-half flight from Tokyo. Kaiyu is a three-hour drive south of the airport and Kamikoya, in Yusuhara Town, is a two-hour drive through the mountains west of the airport. As the prefecture is big with limited public transportation, the best way to get around is by renting a car near the airport or in Kochi City.

Visit Kochi's official tourism website at visitkochijapan.com/en. v

Autumn 2021 | 27

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