ON THE RUN By Robert Self
Double Your Fun This Winter N
ew trail runners in Japan often ask me when the trail running season is over. It’s never over; it just changes. It’s true that winter trail running in Japan requires preparation and planning, but the beautiful snowy mountains create some great running memories for those who venture out. Japan’s highest mountains are not runnable in winter. Don’t plan to run up Mt. Fuji or anything higher than 2,000 meters this winter. In fact, don’t plan on running anywhere in northern Japan after November. This would require full crampons, ice axe skills and enough gear in a backpack to compensate for the many things that can go wrong. However, there is some good trail running in lower areas in Kanto and Kansai that won’t require running crampons. Mt. Takao and Oku-musashi (near Agano) in Tokyo are great places to run in winter, as well as Oyama (Kanagawa) and the Diamond Trail (Osaka). A good plan is to map a circular run beginning at train stations with lockers. Store extra jackets and a change of clothes for your return. Good stations for this are Takao, all stations on the Seibu Ikebukuro Line past Hanno and most of the Odakyu Line that goes near Oyama and Tanzawa. Most have onsen (hot springs) nearby, and nothing is better than a rotenburo after a cold trail run. Do not run alone in the mountains in winter, unless you have plenty of confidence and experience. If you head to higher mountains, locate mountain huts open in the winter before you go. These sanctuaries can be mood changers and lifesavers.
To go higher, you need running crampons or light mountain crampons, gloves, wool or fleece cap that protects your ears and layered running wear including a fleece layer and a shell. Everything must fit in your running pack during your ascent. Note that PET bottles can be risky when temperatures hit -5 or -10, as they can freeze solid. Most safety issues in winter trail running begin on the way down. On the ascent, your body will burn through many calories, and the average trail runner will feel warm to hot. All the sweat you burn on the way up will quickly turn to cold water, then ice once you reach the summit and begin your descent. This can be deadly. Be sure to put on your fleece and shell immediately. Do not wait. Many cases of hypothermia happen during this “pause.” Descending is cold as our bodies burn fewer calories, and the wind from the increase in speed creates a chill. Winter Trails There are two places in the Tokyo area I recommend for getting experience on snowy winter trails. Maruyama (Oku-musashi): Get off at Ashigakubo Station and store a change of clothes here. Do the obvious loop up Ono-toge, then back down to the station. There is a nice hot spring (Buko Onsen) at Yokoze, the next station down the line. Ashigakubo Kajitsu Center, just below Ashigakubo Station, has hot meals on most days. Shibusawa to Ninoto (Tanzawa): Start at the end of the bus line at Ogura. There are various
routes up Ninoto, and a mountain hut at the peak is open in winter. For fit, experienced and wellequipped runners, bagging Tanzawa on an in-andout run is possible, though your group would need an early start and a lot of experience. Tanzawa Hut is also usually open in winter, but be sure to check before you go. Crampons Your best options are YakTrax or Hillsound Trail Crampons. If you do not have access to these in Japan, don’t panic. Most Japanese mountain climbing stores have a range of inexpensive light hiking crampons that work reasonably well. Avoid rigid crampons used for mountain climbing that attach to the bottom of a boot. These will not work for running. Find a non-rigid micro-spike or chain system that attaches to a shoe. Note these will not work in seriously angled-ice as you would encounter on higher mountains, but they will give you enough grip to run down snowy slopes in the lower mountains. Many inexpensive light crampons in Japan attach to the toe of your boot or running shoe. These work OK, but I have seen them fall off running shoes and get lost in deep snow 10 minutes into a run. Be sure any light crampon is attached under your shoelaces to make certain they will not slip off your trail running shoe at some point. Last, abort any winter trail run as soon as it is clear conditions are not right. I quickly gave up two group runs last year when it became apparent conditions were too cold with too much hardened ice for running safely. Hard and angled ice is not the surface for trail running. Know when to call it a day, and do it before the route back down becomes too dodgy. They say every mile you run is two in winter, so double your fun this season. Happy trails!
Robert Self came to Japan from northern California's redwood country. He has been running in Japan's mountains for 20 years and has coached runners from beginners to international champions. He is the director of Hanno Trail School which specializes in running tours and trail running lessons. Web: www.tokyotrailrunning.com / Facebook: www.facebook.com/tokyotrailrunning
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