Outdoor Japan Traveler | Issue 75 | Summer 2020

I S SUE 75

SUMMER 2020

Summer Camping Guide

Camping, Auto Camping, Glamping, Cabins, Camper Vans and Summer Camps for Kids

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Remembering C.W. Nicol Home is Where You Park it Shiokaze BrewLab Market Watch Summer 2020 | 1

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I S S U E 75 SUMMER 2020

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SUMMER CAMPING GUIDE INSIDE

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Gypsy Brewing on the Salt Wind

Shizuoka Travel: Izu & Lake Hamana From the Editor. . . . . . . . . 5 Market Watch. . . . . . . . . . . 6 Kids' Summer Camps . . . . 23

Remembering Nic

Photo Essay: Home is Where You Park it

Camping Car Rentals . . . . 23 Travel Directory. . . . . . . . . 28

Summer 2020 | 3

g n i p m a C Day AT MT. FUJI

Private day-camp and BBQ rentals in Fujinomiya for you and your friends!

・Rental space limited to one group ・Available from 9 AM-6PM on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays ・Includes: Bell tent rental, E-bikes, fire site, BBQ set, insurance ・Not included: Food, drinks ・¥10,000 yen/person (minimum 4 and max 10) Optional: ¥2,000 yen/person for local organic BBQ ¥3,000 yen/person for English E-bike guided tours (3 hours)

EN-YA MT. FUJI

ECOTOURS

Protecting our natural environment and community.

4 | TRAVELER

@mtfujienya

Contact Us! info@ecologic.or.jp

F r om t h eEdi t o r

S

oon after I moved to Nagano in 1997 I started hearing stories about a foreign resident and conservationist who had bought up tracts of land up in Shinanomachi. A decade later the Prince of Wales would visit these woodlands followed by Japan’s own royal family. C.W. Nicol became a bit of an “anti-urban” legend in these parts and throughout Japan back in his heyday. He lived many lives, from park ranger in Africa to pro wrestler, author, musician, martial artist…the list goes on.

Over the past couple years, our mutual friend, Peter Nierenberg, kept saying, “I need to get you up to Kurohime and visit Nic.” Any foreigner who has taught English in Nagano since the '80s has—or knows someone who has—worked for Peter. We planned to see Nic last autumn, but for one reason or another weren’t able to. Sadly, C.W. Nicol passed away this spring, and Pete penned a remembrance of his old buddy “Nic” like only he could.

The current global situation has given many of us time to do things we’ve been putting off, whether it's DIY projects at home or exploring our backyards. People are looking to avoid crowds and while Japan has one of the most efficient and reliable public transportation systems in the world, hiking, cycling or using your own vehicle are great ways to get around with plenty of elbow room.

Our Summer Camping Guide is here to help readers in Japan get out of the house and into some wide open spaces with friends and family this green season.

Whether you prefer pitching your tent at a traditional campsite, cycle touring, auto camping or glamping in style, there are plenty of great options. Many places also have cabins or cottages, and BBQ facilities are widely available. If you don’t have your own gear, check which sites have rental tents, sleeping bags and other equipment. We’ll be regularly updating the Camping Guide with more locations on our website and sending updates on Facebook and Instagram, so be sure to give us a follow.

Musician and NatGeo host Nick Saxon traveled to Japan for another gig at Winterland in Nozawa Onsen before hitting the road in a camper van with our friends at Dream Drive. He and his fiancé, Shino, returned with a photo essay from some traditional Edo Period post towns and some new songs. Japan’s network of michi-no-eki (roadside stations) and numerous auto camping sites make traveling a breeze and a camper van provides the ultimate freedom of the road.

We also sat down with long-time Baird lead-brewer Chris Poel who has taken his talents on the road, gypsy brewing in Japan with various brewers and opening up his own Shiokaze BrewLab just outside of Tokyo. In Market Watch, Joan Bailey shares some organic farms in Japan that deliver fresh fruits and veggies directly to your door.

We hope our readers are spending some quality time with friends and family, supporting local businesses and exploring some new destinations in Japan this summer. There’s no better time to get outside and into the open spaces, and be grateful for this beautiful place we call home. Every season is a new adventure in Japan—get out there!

—Gardner Robinson Editor-in-Chief

Published Seasonally

PUBLISHER Outdoor Japan G.K. DIRECTORS Mike Harris, Charles Odlin, Gardner Robinson FOUNDER / EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Gardner Robinson MEDIA PRODUCER / EDITOR Rie Miyoshi CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Bill Ross CONTRIBUTORS Joan Bailey, Neil Hartmann, Nick Saxon, Peter Nierenberg DESIGN Outdoor Japan

OUTDOOR JAPAN G.K. 45 Yubiso, Minakami-machi, Tone-gun, Gunma-ken 〒 379-1728 EDITORIAL INQUIRIES editor@outdoorjapan.com VIDEO / MEDIA PRODUCTION media@outdoorjapan.com SPONSORSHIP / PROMOTIONS media@outdoorjapan.com DESTINATION MARKETING media@outdoorjapan.com

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Cover Photo: Nojiri Lake Resort

Summer 2020 | 5

MARKET WATCH

BY JOAN BAILEY

Traveling Vegetables and Fruits

Photo by Tokiko Iino

Photo by Midori Farm

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Photo by Pitchfork Farms

Midori Farm (Kutsuki, Shiga) Chuck Kayser estimates he accidentally started organic farming about fourteen years ago while hunting for land to build a cabin. That first small plot in the mountains near Kyoto now includes more than one hundred types of vegetables from other nearby fallow fields that are part of an effort to teach farming, preserve rural culture, mitigate climate change and increase food security. Farm tours and community events add to the delicious work afoot. Customers can purchase a vegetable box for pick-up or delivery within the Kyoto area for ¥2,000 to ¥2,500. www.midorifarm.net

Pitchfork Farms (Mukaishima/Onomichi, Hiroshima) Thomas Kloepfer and Kaori Niisato grow more than 60 varieties of fruit and vegetables year round on their organic farm overlooking the Seto Inland Sea. Their harvest can be found at local farmers markets, their on-farm shop or Thomas’ roving bicycle vegetable market. Aided in their endeavors by chickens, goats and sheep, Kloepfer and Niisato also offer workshops and farm tours. Vegetable boxes range from ¥3,000 to ¥5,000 (plus shipping). www.facebook.com/pitchforkfarms Niseko Green Farm (Kutchan, Hokkaido) Founded in 2007, Niseko Green Farm grows a wide variety of organic vegetables on roughly 12 hectares west of Sapporo near Mt. Yotei. While the farm sells their produce at Hokkaido farmers markets and online, they also welcome visitors for pizza making and farm experiences. Customers further afield—or those not able to make a visit—can order a variety of products as well as single or multi-variety vegetable boxes for delivery from May to October. Prices vary. www.nisekogreenfarm.com Biocreators (Kobe, Hyogo) Eight Kobe-area organic farmers banded together to become the Biocreators Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) program. Customers can choose a weekly or biweekly box of seasonal items that include everything from seedlings to flour, homemade pickles to a variety of fresh vegetables and herbs (with recipes!) to get cooking. Five pick-up locations make it easy to get the box. Home delivery is also an option for those living in Kobe. The ten-week plan is ¥20,000 and ¥12,000 for the five-week plan. www.biocreators.org

Photo by Niseko Green Farm

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his summer brings some changes to the farmers market scene in towns and cities up and down the country.

While some markets have shut down, or others are sorting out schedules, fruits and vegetables are still ripening and farmers are harvesting! Here are a few farms working to make sure fresh, seasonal and delicious produce lands on a table near you.

CAMPING TRIPS TO OV E R 3 0 U N I Q U E D E S T I N AT I O N S

G E T O F F T H E B E AT E N PAT H !

Discover the best of Japanʼs outdoors just 1~3 hours from Osaka, Kyoto and Nara! We cover the entire Kansai area and beyond. Private tours OK.

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(MIXED BATHING B & TAT TOOS OK!)

Overnight & Multi-Night Camping and Day Trips Transport & Gear Provided Swimming, Hiking, BBQ Possible

Book Online!

unbeatenjapan.com info@unbeatenjapan.com

Spring 2020 | 7

GYPSY BREWING ON THE SALT WIND

BY GARDNER ROBINSON

C

hris Poel is the former lead brewer at Baird Brewing. He recently branched out on his own to open Shiokaze BrewLab and the Shiokaze BrewStand Soga in Chiba City. We caught up with Chris right after his opening to find out more.

Gardner Robinson: You recently had your grand opening of the Shiokaze BrewLab Taproom. How fulfilling was it to pour that first beer?

Chris Poel: The first beer pour was truly a triumph. After a year and a half of thinking, planning, raising money, struggling with decisions I never thought I’d have to make, it all came down to that initial pour. The first guy through the door at Shiokaze BrewStand Soga was my good friend, and the guy who got me started gypsy brewing, Davido of Yggdrasil Brewing in Hiratsuka. That first glass went to him. The second went to me and we had an emotional kampai.

GR: Has it been challenging to open up the taproom during these crazy times?

CP: It was challenging, of course, but we timed our opening with the country’s reopening—totally by chance—so we didn’t suffer nearly as much as we could have. We were actually hoping to open in March in a different location, but that fell through. If we had kept to that original March opening, we would have been in deep doo doo.

GR: What was the inspiration behind the Shiokaze BrewLab? CP: I am a teacher at heart. I taught English at all levels in Japan for more than 25 years, including 17 at a university. So, I always had the teaching bug. When I decided to leave Baird and start Shiokaze, I envisioned a kind of “teaching brewery” where brewers can come and get practical training on how to brew, recipe formulation, yeast management, kegging and bottling (and canning in the future), etc.

The name Shiokaze BrewLab combines two different names. Shiokaze comes from my days at Baird’s Numazu brewery. We were growing hops outside the brewery, and one day a typhoon blew through and immediately turned them all brown—hops, leaves, stems, everything. I joked with another brewer that the shiokaze (salt wind) had murdered our hops. That name stuck with us as a joke. While considering a name for my new project, I kept circling back to shiokaze, and I finally decided that was best. The actual kanji we chose, though, means sea breeze, not salt.

T h e B re w L a b p a r t c o m e s f ro m t h e teaching aspect I mentioned before. Lab

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in this case means more of a teaching environment than an actual laboratory. Thus, the name combines the two main influences and passions from my 40 years in Japan.

GR: What’s your favorite part of mentoring young brewers and collaborating?

CP: Truly the best part of training brewers is to see them go off and do their own thing and do it well. Several of the brewers I worked with at Baird have gone on to start their own projects, most notably Tetsuya Kataoka, who started Numazu Craft, and Shohei Taguchi, who started Botanical Beverage Works with his partner Yuka Sato (unfortunately he passed away before fulfilling his dream). Several other former Baird brewers are in the process of establishing their breweries, and I’m excited to see what they can achieve.

Collaboration brews are fascinating to me, because they provide me a chance to learn. All too often, when brewers say they “collaborated,” it means they met at the brewery for some photos and then headed out to drink themselves silly while the other brewers did all the hard work. I love getting into the brewery, observing the process differences, asking questions and sometimes offering advice and learning more about brewing.

While all collaborations are enjoyable, p e r h a p s t h e m o s t i n t e re s t i n g w a s l a s t September at Yamorido in Kyoto. I joined Yamorido’s two brewers, Yuki Mori and Jordan Smith, and Lallemand Yeast Technical Sales Manager Molly Browning, in brewing a huge Barleywine. Having four experienced brewers in the same brewhouse, exchanging ideas, knowledge, and experiences made for an amazing day.

GR: How did your time at Baird prepare you to go out on your own?

CP: The Baird experience was invaluable in my development as a brewer. Bryan Baird is truly a brewery master, and his partner Sayuri is a magician on the pub side. I didn’t only learn about brewing and beer, but about proper beer serving, pub management, event planning, brewery operations—pretty much every side of running a successful brewery.

That said, I didn’t truly appreciate how hard establishing a new brewery and pub was until I tried to do it on my own!

GR: How have you seen the craft beer industry change over the years?

CP: The Japanese craft beer world has continued to improve in the past 11 years since I first joined Baird, with some really interesting breweries opening in the past few years. But there is still too much beer that isn’t quite up to quality standards, and that is holding craft beer in Japan back. Again, this is one of the reasons I wanted to start Shiokaze BrewLab; I think we can be a positive influence on young brewers who have a dream and not much else.

GR: When did you know it was time to branch out on your own?

CP: Truthfully, I have always wanted to have my own brewery, even since before I joined Baird in 2009. If I had done it back then, though, it would have been a disaster, and I would have been a crushed man! Once I joined Baird, I realized that there was too much that I didn’t know (I didn’t know what I didn’t know), so I set out to get the experience, knowledge, and skills that I desired.

Then as I moved up the ladder into more of a managing role, I started missing the teaching/training side of brewing and that’s when I started entertaining the idea of striking out on my own. It was a hard decision, especially since I was already 60 years old, but I’m glad I am where I am today.

GR: Was it challenging to scale up to the big system at Shuzenji with Baird, and has it been difficult in anyway to be back working on smaller systems?

CP: The biggest adjustment for me going from 1,000L to 6,000L at Baird was in the computer programming. When Bryan handed me a recipe for a 1,000L batch on paper, I knew what to do with it and the order to do it in. Of course, as a human, my process was going to be slightly different every time, but the results would be really close. On the big system, the computer takes control of the process, which results in more consistency.

But setting up that computer is a lot more difficult than it looks. You have seven different vessels that need to talk to each other—when to open this valve, when to turn on that steam,

when to rotate this blade, what temperature to chill to, etc. There are literally hundreds of parameters that need to be set exactly right. That was extremely stressful, because if I forgot or screwed up some setting, the whole batch could end up going down the drain. And losing 6,000 liters of beer is not something I wanted to report to the boss!

W h e n I s t a r t e d g y p s y b re w i n g f o r Shiokaze, moving back to small manual systems was actually very comfortable, like slipping into a favorite old pair of jeans after a diet—it just felt like home! But I’ve learned that, like beer, brewing systems each have their own personalities and quirks and need to be treated differently. The experiences I’ve gained brewing at Yggdrasil, Snark Liquidworks and Beer Brain Brewery have given me a lot of insight into what I want when I buy my own brewhouse. We hope to purchase the equipment later this year and be fully operational by spring 2021.

GR: Are there any specific breweries that have particularly influenced you?

CP: My first U.S. craft beer love was Sierra Nevada Pale Ale, and I still love what that brewery is doing. They don’t hop on every bandwagon to try to keep up with trends.

Instead they take their time, do the research, and when they do come out with a new beer, it’s fantastic. I’m kind of famous for my dislike of hazy beers, but when they came out with their hazy beer, I didn’t hesitate to try it—and I was very pleased.

GR: What are some of the recent collaborations you have worked on?

CP: The most recent collaboration was with Izumi Brewing, where we added a bunch of natsu mikan (summer orange) into a Saison. I’m not familiar with brewing Saisons, so that was very interesting to me. I mean, where are the hops?!

In July, we will brew a couple of sour beers using a new yeast from Lallemand. One will be at Yggdrasil, where we’ll add peach puree to make a sour wheat beer. The second will be at Beer Brain, which largely focuses on IPAs. A sour IPA with tropical American hops?

Why not? We’re planning to release these beers in August, just in time for the hottest part of the Japanese summer. v

Shiokaze Brew Lab and Shiokaze BrewStand Soga

Soga, Chiba Prefecture Three-minute walk from Soga Station (070) 4211-5114 3 p.m. to 10 p.m. Mon. - Fri. 12 p.m. to 11 p.m. Sat., Sun., National Holidays www.facebook.com/shiokazebrewlab

All American, American. all the time.

Kannai

Yokohama

Shinagawa Home delivery OK! Check our website!

Summer 2020 | 9

Nic

REMEMBERING A L IF E W ELL LI VED

BY PETER NIERENBERG

10 | TRAVELER

Photo by Afan Woodland Trust

I

t was a given growing up in New York City in the ‘60s and ‘70s that most—no, scratch that—all of your friends were either actors, painters o r w r i t e r s; u n t e s t e d, u n m o u n t e d and unpublished to a man. So, you’ll f o r gi ve m e a n eye r o ll w h e n C .W. Nicol walked into my life and said, he “wrote.” Uh-huh.

How this force of nature, a fellow we called “Nic,” lumbered into my life was coincidence, pure and simple. He had just moved to Nagano Prefecture with his bride Mariko. It was 1980 and, like all ex-pats needed, cash flow. Back then—and perhaps to a lesser degree still now—“cash flow” was synonymous with “eikaiwa” (English conversation school). Nic needed a teaching job fast and the Nagano American School was the only game in town.

He came knocking. It was a surprise, though, and a delight to see him s tanding in the door way. You could count the number of foreigners i n Nag a no Ci t y o n t he f i ng e r s of your left hand. Running into one was an occasion, so with high hopes we climbed the stairs to see the head honcho. No dice.

Unperturbed Nic and Mariko got into their car and drove north into the woods; me apologizing to no end. A weekend or so later, bundling my wife Shigeyo into the car, we drove off from our cut-and- dried, salar yman fourcornered danchi to see them in their wild forest lair near the foot of Mt. Kurohime. Now this patch wasn’t then what it would eventually become. This wasn’t the sheer acreage to be visited

by Imperial families and royal princes; this was, in my eyes, better.

The Nicols had holed up in an old thatched-roofed farmhouse hugging a hillside surrounded by rice paddies.

Satoyama to the nines. It was certainly my dream place. The weathered wood walls melding with the straw roof all askew. Heavy beams set cheek to jowl

creating earthy rooms of concentric t a t a m i m a t s . I t ’s p r e c i s e l y w h a t foreigners see in their mind’s eye when fantasizing a rural life in Japan.

Easily the Nicols had made that illusion into a warm, snug home; a variable Woodstock of cast iron pots, hand-thrown potter y and macrame.

Mariko served tea in rustic cups and snacks on rough hewn ceramic plates taking my breath away. It became clear that afternoon, being stuck in a grey housing development was quick becoming intolerable when this life existed across the Chikuma River and through the Kurohime Woods.

Autumn was get ting along, the air carried a chill with snow seemingly around the corner, while Nic told a snow countr y s tor y over s teaming mugs. That past winter, he and Mariko woke up one morning to find the entire genkan sealed off with heavy snow. It was up to the roof and beyond. There was no way to leave the house without digging a tunnel. Laterally wasn’t an option, as there is no telling how far you would have to dig. Nic knew if the family was ever going to leave the house sometime before spring, they would have to dig upwards to the eves.

That he did and for the rest of the winter season, they emerged like snow foxes from their cozy den straight up from the front door.

It was in the following year that Nic and Mariko bought a fine tract of land closer to the slopes of Mt. Kurohime.

He had fallen in love with the Shinanomachi fields and forests when he had spent summers there working at an English summer camp to best escape from the horrid Tokyo heat. The house he was about to build would be his third in the area. Somewhere between the rustic farmhouse and this new patch of land, there was a modern vacation besso.

In each location, Nic earned his snow countr y cons tr uc tion chops.

He knew the angle of roofs and the front door has got to be three-plus meters off the forest path. No more early morning digging out from under for them. Planning and anticipation bec ame the r ule. L arge souther ly windows and a special wood burning kitchen stove girded with water tanks to circulate hot water through a serpentine system of radiators located about the house.

After years in Africa and the Arctic, this was the home where he would spend the rest of his life.

Settling down in his corner of the woods, Nic began to press his career forward. There had been early work in the 1960s and 70s. His diar y on studying karate in Japan, “Moving Zen,” was on the bookshelves of every Asian bookstore in Manhattan. Being a game warden in Ethiopia provided the biographical pages for “From the Roof of Africa.” But now, surrounded by cat tle grazing and beech trees, Nic turns to fiction, drama and song writing. He won awards in each of those pursuits but perhaps it’s best not to forget mentioning the long-running outdoor-life articles in one of the wildly popular “Jump" magazines.

Nic, 1975

Summer 2020 | 11

Ethiopia, 1975

In the “bubble era” ‘90s, camping and the great outdoors became “a thing” in Japan and C.W. Nicol became a household name. He wrote about campfires, shelters, cooking on spits and stones, how to gut and roast, all the while urging Japanese urbanites to dream of the wild, natural world.

Thirty years ago was the very nub of the burgeoning woodland lifestyle, a labor that still calls out to people today. In Twenty-first century terms, Nic was the “influencer” of the Japan Outdoor Industry, giving citizens great breaths of fresh air and adventure.

This of course made Nic a “go to” in the media and the retail world.

More than once, you could be driving down the broad main street in town, quickly roll down your window and holler loud, “Yo, Nic!” and wave wildly when you saw him standing on the sidewalk outside a showroom. It was invariably a life-sized cutout of the old boy propped up against a display of Hawkin’s hiking boots or this year’s Mitsubishi four-wheel drive adventure van. However all this sponsor ship did lead to a relationship that Nic treasured, Nikka Distilleries and its whiskeys.

C.W. Nicol, the consummate Celt, loved his whiskey, his songs and his poems, much in t hat order. For a Welsh lad who grew up on the knee of his godfather, Dylan Thomas, no more could be asked. He became Nikka’s spokesperson and af ter a string of television commercials, they asked Nic if he would consider creating his own barrel of hooch. This question was so quickly answered it rendered itself moot in a moment’s blink. He set about to design a single-malt while throwing delicacy, nuance and balance to the winds; this was to be a pool of smoke, peat and mahogany the likes of which few have ever seen.

On June 26, 1986, a single cask of Nichol’s Dram was laid down in Nikka’s original distillery in Yoichicho, H o k k ai d o. Fo r f i ve t h o u s a n d o n e h u n d r e d a n d f o r t y - f i ve d ay s t ha t barrel sat and aged. How Nic could be

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The Arctic, 1962

patient those fourteen years is a riddle no one could answer. Each evening when we drank, in the back of our minds for near a decade and a half, we silently wondered what would come of barrel #126941. On July 27, 2000 one hundred bottles of Nicol’s Dram were bottled.

It’s easy to glibly say how fabulous that tipple was; a few whiskey critics claimed it was in the top ten of all whiskeys ever if not the top three. It is, of course, subjective; people adore what they adore and despise what they despise. However, when Yoshiro Mori, the prime minis ter of Japan at the time, was to visit the William Jefferson Blythe Clinton White House, he scouted about for the perfect gift to bring the leader of the free world.

With all the resources at the Japanese gover nment ’s disposal, the pr ime minister up and chose a single bottle of Nicol’s Dram made in Hokkaido.

That’s all.

A few months later, up the pitted gravel backcountr y road swer ves a pos tman on his 90 cc Honda Cub. He’s delivering a hand-written letter on White House stationery thanking Mr. Nicol profusely for that amazing whiskey and then appends it with, if at all possible might he have another?

Signed, Bill Clinton.

Not a problem.

Nic, big-hearted, generous and full of tales, was always a welcomed soul around anybody’s groaning board and, at rare moments, even at the loftiest of tables. When the Prince of Wales Afan Center

visited The C.W. Nicol Afan Woodland Tr u s t i n O c t o b e r 2 0 0 8 , h e w a s accompanied by Princess Takamado, the widow of Prince Takamado (who was a first cousin of Emperor Emeritus A k i h i t o). T h e Ta k a m a d o c h i l d r e n used to stay with "Uncle Nic" at the Kurohime house for a few days each summer. Nic was thrilled and used to talk about the shenanigans the kids would get into.

Prince Charles visits Afan in 2008

In autumn 2019, Nic was invited to lunch at the Imper ial Palace.

Emperor Akihito and Empress Michiko, having just stepped down from the Chr ysanthemum Throne six months earlier, asked Nic to join them for a private luncheon at their residence overlooking the palace woods. The Empress herself whipped up a light meal and had just ser ved the three of them when the Emperor excitedly began talking about nearly tripping over a huge pile of—to put it politely— droppings in the woods. He pointed to a spot on the other side of the garden pond beyond the tree line.

The Emperor had no idea what in the world it might be and, Nic being Nic, liked nothing better than talking about it. The fact that none of this makes for polite table conversation was not los t on the Empress. Her Imperial Highness sat quietly and said nothing.

But when the Emperor suggested they go have a peek, both men jump to grab their shoes in the genkan. “Oh, no you don’t,” a voice boomed out.

The Empress on her feet and pointing to the table, “You boys get right back here, sit down and finish your lunch.

After that you both can go play in the woods.”

C.W. Nicol lived a life. And yes, he really was a writer.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Peter Nierenberg’s eclectic fourdecade career in Japan includes a weekly study column in the Shinano Mainichi newspaper and contributions to t he Ho kus hi n T i me s a nd ot her local newspapers. He has published several English textbooks and was given the Nagano Prefecture award for educational ser vice and the Nagano City Nursing College award for education. He had a long-running weekly radio show on the Fuji Radio a n d Te l ev i s i o n N et w o r k a n d a l s o worked on corporate communications, commercials, videos for international Japanese brands and even a stint as an actor with numerous operas. He and his wife Shigeyo ran two popular New York-style bistros in Nagano for more than 18 years. v

Emperor Emeritus Akihito and Empress Emerita Michiko's visit Afan in 2016

Photo by Nagano Prefecture

C.W. Nicol was born in South Wales, UK in 1940. He lived in Shinanomachi since 1980 and started acquiring neglected woodlands through his Afan Woodland Trust since 1986. In 2005, in recognition of his conservation activities, he was appointed Member of the Order of the British Empire (MBE)

by Queen Elizabeth II. In 2016 he received the 26th Midori no Bunka (Green Culture) Prize from the National Land Afforestation Promotion Organization.

In 2016, the Emperor and Empress of Japan visited the Afan Woodland Trust.

Nicol passed away on April 3, 2020 in Nagano. Learn more about the legacy, activities and programs at Afan: www.afan.or.jp

Summer 2020 | 13

COME ON IN

The Water's Fine!

PA I D P U B L I C I T Y

14 | TRAVELER

IZU PENINSULA

W

hite sandy beaches and azure seas await jus t less than t wo hour s from Tok yo.

The Izu Peninsula in Shizuoka Prefecture offers uncrowded beaches accessing to some of the clearest diving and snorkeling spots in Japan.

The Kuroshio (also known as the Black or Japan Current) flows nearby so the waters are teeming with colorful tropical marine life.

LAKE HAMANA

L ake Hamana in wes t Shizuoka is Japan’s largest brackish lake, which leads south into the Pacific. Over 800 types of fish and shellfish live in this lake and feed off the nutrients from the saltwater and freshwater. Its environment makes it an ideal place to produce some of Japan’s finest seafood including oysters, unagi (eel) and seaweed.

SCUBA DIVING Swim with seahorses, colorful fish and even hammerhead sharks! Some of Izu’s best diving locations include Kujuppama Beach where you can see the remains of a submarine volcano.

NIGHT SPEARFISHING Experience the dramatic takiya-ryo, a 100-yearold local tradition of night spear fishing. Night fishing starts at sunset in a small boat. The fish caught by spear are grilled on Takiya Base, a floating dining raft close to shore.

SNORKELING AND KAYAKING Kayak into Sotoura Bay then enjoy the marine life below by snorkeling with schools of tropical fish. You can even try “sports kayaking” in spring and autumn when the waves are stronger.

PARASAILING Fly high (up to 100 meters) above Lake Hamana.

Harnesses for small children aged three or older are available so families can enjoy this bird’s eye experience together.

SURFING Even if it’s your first time sur fing, you’ll be r iding waves in no time in Shimo da, one of Shizuoka’s best surf spots.

BOAT RACING Competitive boat racing (kyotei ) is one of Japan’s four sports that allow people to legally place bets. Tour one of Japan’s top boat race facilities, Boat Race Hamanako, watch a race and place your bet!

FISHING Embark on a fishing excursion just of f the coast. Join a fourth-generation fisherman and try your hand at catching local delicacies like madai (red sea bream), snapper, isaki (grunt), moroko (grouper) and warasa (amberjack).

ACCESS Take the Tokaido Shinkansen bullet train from Tokyo to Atami Station (45 minutes). From there, take the local bus or the local Ito train line, then the Izukyu train to Izu Peninsula.

OYSTER TASTING In the winter, enjoy large, mineral-rich Lake Hamana oysters, which you can only get around this region. A boat takes visitors to the oyster farm, then afterwards you can enjoy traditional cuisine using local ingredients and hot steamed oysters in the lakeside hut.

ACCESS Take the Tokaido Shinkansen bullet train from Tokyo to Hamamatsu Station (90 minutes). From there, take the local bus or the local Tokaido train line to Lake Hamana. v

Book your adventure and discover more online at

ExploreShizuoka.com!

Summer 2020 | 15

Camping in Japan

O U T D O O R J A PA N ' S G U I D E T O C A M P I N G , A U T O C A M P I N G & GLAMPING IN THE GREEN SEASON

Shima Autocamp

E

HOKKAIDO

scape the crowds this summer at more than 3,000 campsites across the country offering everything from free camping with basic tent sites to well-equipped auto campgrounds and luxurious glamping, cabins or cottages. Having your own vehicle gives you the ability to explore at your own pace and make stops when needed with the kids. There is a growing number of camper car options with renovated vans (and “K-vans”) giving you the ultimate freedom of the road. Check out our picks all the way from Hokkaido to the Okinawa Islands and then plot your perfect Japan camping adventure.

Hopi Hills Hopi Hills is a charming farmstay located in Akaigawa, near Kiroro Ski Resort. Enjoy horseback riding and dine on locally-sourced grilled dishes before falling asleep in yurts that sleep up to four people.

Accommodation: Glamping, Cottages English-Speaking Staff: Yes Rental Equipment: No BBQ Facilities: Yes Access: An hour by car from Sapporo. www.hopihills.com

Sunayu Campsite Lake Kussharo was named by the Ainu because hot springs ooze from the lake’s sandy beach. Campers can dig their own hot springs on the shores of the lake.

Accommodation: Camping English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: No BBQ Facilities: No Access: 25 minutes by bus from Kawayu Onsen Station on the Senmo Line.

Tel: (015) 484-2254

Cottage House Bongo Stay cozy in a custom-built log cabin with exceptional views of Mt. Yotei and Mt. Annupuri.

Accommodation: Log Cabins, Cabins, Glamping English-Speaking Staff: Yes Rental Equipment: Yes BBQ Facilities: Shared BBQ space.

Access: Five minutes by car from Niseko Station and two hours by car from Sapporo or New Chitose Airport. www.bongoniseko.com

Kinoko-no-Sato Aibetsu Autocamp

Yoteizan Makkari Campsite This campsite at the foot of Mt. Yotei is ideal for hikers (especially the Makkari Course).

Accommodation: Camping, Auto Camping English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: Tents, sleeping bags BBQ Facilities: Yes. Firewood also available.

Access: Two hours and 20 minutes by bus from Sapporo Station. www.vill.makkari.lg.jp

16 | TRAVELER

This campsite built along the Ishikari River overlooks majestic Daisetsuzan. Popular sightseeing attractions such as Furano, Biei and Asahikawa are an hour drive away.

Accommodation: Camping, Auto Camping English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: Tents, sleeping bags, fishing poles BBQ Facilities: No Access: Two hours by car from Sapporo or a 25-minute walk from Aizan Station on the Sekihoku-Honsen Line. www.town.aibetsu.hokkaido.jp Sounkyo Autocamp Wake up in a beautiful forest as curious deer wander through. This campsite is located near Sounkyo Gorge and campers can enjoy cycling and fishing.

Accommodation: Camping, Auto Camping, Bungalows English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: Blankets BBQ Facilities: No Access: 20-30 minutes by bus from Kamikawa Station to Rikuman Bus Stop on the Sekihoku Line.

Tel: (0165) 82-4058

Shirogane Yaei Campsite Camp just five minutes away from the famous Blue Pond.

Accommodation: Camping, Cabins English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: No BBQ Facilities: No Access: 30 minutes by bus from Biei Station to Kokuritsu-taisetsu-seinen-no-ie Bus Stop on the Furano Line.

Tel: (0166) 94-3209 Higashi-Onuma Campsite FREE Part of Onuma Quasi National Park, this free campsite sits on the shores of Lake Onuma overlooking an active volcano, Mt. Komagatake.

Accommodation: Camping English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: No BBQ Facilities: No Access: A nine-minute walk from Choshiguchi Station on the Hakodate Line.

Cottage House Bongo

Qkamura Haguro Camp

Utarube Camp (Aomori)

Iwate Prefectural Forest Camp (Iwate)

This campsite is on the eastern end of Lake Towada on the Mikura Peninsula. Enjoy a frontrow view of the Hakkoda Mountains. Oirase Gorge, with its many waterfalls, is also nearby.

Accommodation: Camping, Auto Camping, Cottages English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: No BBQ Facilities: Yes Access: Two hours by bus from Misawa Station or three hours by bus from Aomori Station to Kokumin Shukusha-mae Bus Stop.

Tel: (0176) 75-2477

This campsite in Iwate Prefectural Forest is a great place for educating children about nature.

There are on-site nature educational programs and woodcraft workshops.

Accommodation: Camping English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: No BBQ Facilities: No Access: 12 kilometers from Matsuo Hachimantai IC on Route 45 towards Hachimantai Onsen. www.kenminnomori.com

TOHOKU

Tazawako Camp (Akita) This campsite provides easy access to Tazawako, Japan’s deepest lake where you can enjoy water sports and even sunset kayaking. Other popular activities nearby include hiking, downriver canoeing, shower climbing and whitewater rafting.

Accommodation: Camping, Auto Camping, Bungalows English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: Tents, sleeping bags, lanterns, blankets, hammocks, chairs BBQ Facilities: Yes Access: 15 minutes by bus from Tazawako Station to Tazawako Rest House-mae Bus Stop. www.tazawako.net Qkamura Haguro Camp (Yamagata) This comfortable campsite is part of Shonai Haguro Kyukamura Resort in Dewa Sanzan, the sacred mountains of yamabushido (mountain asceticism). Soak in the on-site hot spring after a day of hiking around Mt. Haguro or sightseeing the Shonai Region.

Accommodation: Camping, Auto Camping, Canvas Tents English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: Tents, sleeping bags, lanterns BBQ Facilities: Yes. Local Shonai beef and food available for purchase as well.

Access: 50 minutes by bus from Tsuruoka Station to Haguro Kokumin Kyuka-mura. www.qkamura.or.jp/haguro Nishihama Camp (Yamagata) This seaside campsite sits at the mouth of Fukiura River. Apon Nishihama Hot Springs are a five-minute walk away.

Accommodation: Camping, Cottages English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: Tents, blankets, lanterns BBQ Facilities: Yes Access: 15 minutes by car from Sakata Minato IC or a ten-minute walk from Fukiura Station or Yuza Station on the JR Uetsu Line. www.nishihama-cottage.com

Angel Forest Nasu Shirakawa (Fukushima) This pet-friendly campsite is popular with dog lovers for its spacious outdoor and indoor dog park, forest walking trails and even an onsen dedicated to pets. All sites are connected to a power outlet. The shared outdoor kitchen has running hot water and laundry machines, and guests can use the natural hot springs for free.

Popular activities here include fishing, canoeing and cycling (pets are welcome to join too).

Accommodation: Camping, Auto Camping, Glamping, Log Cabins, Cottages English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: Tents, sleeping bags, lanterns, blankets BBQ Facilities: Yes. Food also available for purchase Access: 30 minutes by car from Shirakawa IC on the Tohoku Expressway. www.ang-f-ns.com Kotakamori Autocamp (Fukushima) This popular auto camping site is next to Lake Sohara. Enjoy bass fishing on a boat or spend a day in a private floating dome built on the lake specifically for fishing.

Accommodation: Camping, Auto Camping, Bungalows English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: No BBQ Facilities: Yes Access: 40 minutes by bus from Inawashiro Station to Katakamori Camp-jo-mae Bus Stop. www.kotakamori.com Kamiwarizaki Camp (Miyagi) This seaside campsite sits on the tip of Cape Kamiwarizaki. Dine on fresh seafood and enjoy fishing or swimming. There is an on-site restaurant and day-trip options are available as well.

Accommodation: Camping, Auto Camping, Cabins English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: Tents, sleeping bags, lanterns, blankets BBQ Facilities: Yes. Food also available for purchase.

Access: 30 minutes by bus from Shizugawa Station to Kamiwarizaki-iriguchi Bus Stop. www.m-kankou.jp/kamiwari-camp

Summer 2020 | 17

Kubota Camp (Niigata) Sado Island has a storied past as an island for exiles and political prisoners. Today, contemporary art and culture flourish on this beautiful island including taiko drumming and noh theater. Kubota Campground sits on a shallow beach in a pine grove along Mano Bay on the west side of the island.

Accommodation: Camping English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: No BBQ Facilities: No Access: 45 minutes by bus from Ryotsu Port to Sawada Bus Stop.

Tel: (0259) 57-8123

CHUBU

Konashidaira Camp (Nagano) Kamikochi is the mecca of hiking and camping in Japan. This campsite along the clear Azusa River and near the famous Kappa Bridge has easy access to popular hiking trails in the area.

Accommodation: Camping, Cabins English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: Tents, sleeping bags, hot water bottles, benches, chairs, lanterns BBQ Facilities: Yes Access: An hour and ten minutes by bus from Shin-Shimashima Station to Kamikochi Bus Stop. www.nihonalpskankou.com Nagiso Sanroku Araragi Camp (Nagano) This campsite is only a 15-minute drive from the traditional post town of Tsumago-juku on the Nakasendo, the ancient inland route between old Edo (Tokyo) and Kyoto.

Accommodation: Camping, Auto Camping, Cabins English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: Tents, blankets BBQ Facilities: Yes Access: 20 minutes by bus from Nagiso Station to Okoshi Bus Stop. www.nagiso-araragi-camp.com

Fujino Kirameki

PICA Fuji Saiko (Yamanashi)

Mitsukejima Seaside Camp (Ishikawa)

Lake Saiko offers great fishing, boating, canoeing and kayaking. The PICA mountain bike course, with a park course for beginners and intermediate riders and a single-track course for advanced riders, is also nearby.

MTB rentals available.

Accommodation: Camping, Auto Camping, Yurts, Trailers, Cottages English-Speaking Staff: Yes. Conversation level Rental Equipment: Tents, sleeping bags, lanterns BBQ Facilities: Yes. Food also available for purchase.

Access: 15 to 20 minutes by car from Kawaguchiko IC on the Chuo Expressway. www.pica-resort.jp/saiko

Watch the sun set behind Noto Peninsula’s iconic and uninhabited Mitsukejima Island at this seaside camp. Campers can enjoy hot springs nearby at Notojiso Ryokan.

Accommodation: Camping English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: No BBQ Facilities: No Access: 30 minutes by car from Noto Satoyama Airport IC on the Noto Expressway. www.notozi.com/campmitukezima.htm

Fujino Kirameki (Shizuoka)

Nojiri Lake Resort (Nagano) Nojiri Lake Resort, near the shores of Lake Nojiri in northern Nagano Prefecture, is a cool place to escape in summer to enjoy kayaking, wakeboarding, stand-up paddling and more.

Accommodation: Camping, Auto Camping (RVs) English-Speaking Staff: Yes Rental Equipment: No BBQ Facilities: Yes Access: About ten minutes by bus from Kurohime Station to Lake Nojiri or an hour by car from Nagano Station. www.nojirilakeresort.jp

Experience luxury at the foot of Mt. Fuji in Gotemba. Fujino Kirameki features 19 container boxes refurbished into glamping rooms. There is an on-site bar and dinner features delicious steak and lobster. Each room comes with an outdoor jacuzzi.

Accommodation: Glamping English-Speaking Staff: Yes Rental Equipment: Fully furnished BBQ Facilities: Yes Access: Five minutes by car from Tomei Gotemba IC and 85 minutes from Shinjuku Station to Gotemba Station (pick-up service available). www.fu-ji-no.jp

Kozanso Camp (Yamanashi)

Snow Peak Land Station Hakuba (Nagano)

Explore Yamanako, the largest of Mt. Fuji’s five lakes. The campsite provides easy access to the area’s local shops, lake activities and hiking courses (three to five hours long).

Accommodation: Auto Camping, Bungalows English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: No BBQ Facilities: Yes. Rental cooking utensils available.

Access: 50 minutes by bus from Mt. Fuji Station to Kozanso-mae Bus Stop. www.kozanso.com

Thrilling adventures await at Hakuba Tsugaike Wow Adventure Park while Hakuba Mountain Harbor features a café with panoramic views of the Hakuba Mountains. Hakuba Mountain Beach offers spa-like luxury at the top of Hakuba Happo-One. Accommodation: Camping, Cabins English-Speaking Staff: Yes Rental Equipment: Tents, sleeping bags, chairs, tables, lanterns BBQ Facilities: Yes Access: 60 minutes by car from Nagano IC and a ten-minute walk from Hakuba Station. www.snowpeak.co.jp/landstation/hakuba

18 | TRAVELER

Tateyama Sanroku Kazokuryoko-mura Camp (Toyama) This campsite, tucked away in the Japanese Alps, regularly welcomes woodland creatures l i k e J a p a n e s e m a c a q u e s a n d s e ro w s .

Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route and Japan’s tallest waterfall, Shomyo Falls, are an hour drive away.

Accommodation: Camping, Auto Camping, Cabins English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: No BBQ Facilities: Yes. Food also available for purchase.

Access: Five minutes by bus from Tateyama Station to Sanya Sports Center-mae Bus Stop. www.kazokumura.co.jp Qkamura Irako Autocamp (Aichi) This campsite is located at Cape Irako on the tip of Atsumi Peninsula and is part of Kyukamura Resort. Enjoy the best of Mikawa Bay and Ise Bay's seafood while catching stunning sunsets.

Accommodation: Camping, Auto Camping, Cottages English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: Tents, sleeping bags, lanterns BBQ Facilities: Yes. Local seafood and other food available for purchase.

Access: 90 minutes by bus from Toyohashi Station to Kyukamura Bus Stop. www.qkamura.or.jp/irago

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Summer 2020 | 19

Sukaisan

The Farm

Oarai Camp-jo (Ibaraki)

Camp and Cabins Nasu Kogen (Tochigi)

Hikawa Camp (Tokyo)

Be one of the first out in the water at Oarai Beach, a popular surf spot in Ibaraki. The sandy seafloor and shallow water attracts surfers and swimmers in summer.

Accommodation: Camping, Cabins English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: Tents, sleeping bags, lanterns BBQ Facilities: Yes Access: Six minutes by bus from Oarai Station. www.oarai-camp-jo.com

Your family (including the dog) can enjoy the cooling highlands of Nasu Kogen. This North American-style camp provides good access to the base camp of Chausu-dake, one of the 100 most famous mountains of Japan.

Challenge yourself to tree climbing activities, shower climbing, kayaking and stand-up paddling on the lake (your dogs can also join!).

Accommodation: Auto Camping, Cabins, Cottages English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: Tents, sleeping bags, lanterns, blankets, camp beds, tables, chairs BBQ Facilities: Yes. Food aso available for purchase Access: Seven minutes by car from Nasu IC on the Tohoku Expressway. www.camp-cabins.com

Okutama is an easy getaway for Tokyo outdoor enthusiasts. Enjoy riverside camping next to Tama River. Moegi-no-yu Hot Spring is close by.

Accommodation: Camping, Bungalows, Lodge English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: Mattresses, blankets BBQ Facilities: Yes Access: A five-minute walk from Okutama Station. www.okutamas.co.jp/hikawa

Auto Campers Naramata (Gunma)

KANTO

Camp and Cabins Nasu Kogen

Enjoy camping in the Minakami Biosphere Reserve. This campsite is built next to a reservoir so children and beginners can try canoeing and stand-up paddling in calm waters. It’s also close to some of Japan’s top rafting and canyoning locations.

Accommodation: Camping English-Speaking Staff: Yes Rental Equipment: Tents, sleeping bags, lanterns, blankets, camp beds, tables, chairs BBQ Facilities: Yes Access: One hour by car from Minakami IC on the Kanetsu Expressway. Buses available from Minakami Station to Yu-no-koya Bus Stop. The campsite is a 50-minute walk from Yu-no-koya. www.norn.co.jp/camp Sukaisan Camp Forest (Gunma) This campsite is tucked away in a small forest with a stunning view of Mt. Hotaka and clear, starry skies. Fukiware Falls, also known as the Niagara Falls of the east, is located nearby.

Accommodation: Auto Camping, Cabins English-Speaking Staff: Yes Rental Equipment: Tents, sleeping bags, lanterns, blankets BBQ Facilities: Yes Access: 30 minutes by car from Numata IC and about 40 minutes by bus from Numata Station on the JR Joetsu Line (disembark at Fukikaze no Taki Bus Stop). www.sukaisan.com Shobugahama Camp (Tochigi) This scenic campsite sits on the shores of Lake Chuzenji in Nikko National Park. The impressive Kegon Falls is an eight-minute drive away.

Accommodation: Camping, Bungalows English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: No BBQ Facilities: Yes. Cooking utensils also available.

Access: 70 minutes by bus from Nikko Station to Shobugahama Motor Hatchakujo Bus Stop. www.shoubugahama.co.jp

20 | TRAVELER

Nagatoro Autocamp (Saitama) This campsite next to the fast-flowing Arakawa River is a popular spot for travelers looking for whitewater rafting and hiking near Tokyo.

Accommodation: Auto Camping, Glamping, Cottages, Bungalows English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: No (glamping cottages and bungalows are fully furnished) BBQ Facilities: Yes Access: A 15-minute walk from Nogami Station. www.nagatoro-camp.com Ohara Autocamp Sotobo (Chiba) Emerge from your tent, grab your surfboard and walk right onto the beach at this laidback seaside camp. Chiba’s popular surf spots like Katsuura and Onjuku are just a short drive away.

Accommodation: Camping, Auto Camping English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: No BBQ Facilities: No Access: A 30-minute walk from Ohara Station. www.oohara-ac-inn.jimdofree.com The Farm (Chiba) Harvest your own vegetables at this unique retreat combining a farm, camping and glamping all in one. Enjoy farm-to-table BBQ dining using local vegetables and meat.

Accommodation: Camping, Glamping, Cottages English-Speaking Staff: Yes Rental Equipment: Tents, sleeping bags, lanterns, blankets BBQ Facilities: Yes. Local gibier meat and vegetables available for purchase.

Access: 75 minutes by bus from Tokyo or Hamamatsucho Station to Kurimoto Bus Stop.

Shuttle bus from bus stop available. www.thefarm.jp

Umi-no-furusato-mura Camp (Tokyo) Camp on Izu Oshima, the largest of Tokyo’s volcanic Izu Islands. Enjoy hiking Mt. Mihara or fishing and snorkeling before hopping into natural hot springs. Tokai Kisen runs high speed ferries between Izu Oshima and metropolitan Tokyo's Takeshiba Ferry Terminal which take about two hours and cost around ¥8,500 yen one way.

Accommodation: Camping, Lodges English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: Tents, blankets BBQ Facilities: Yes. Rental cooking utensils also available.

Access: 40 minutes by bus from Motomachi Port on Izu-Oshima Island or 15 minutes by bus from Okada Port to Oshima Koen Bus Stop, then 20 minutes by free shuttle bus (runs two to four times a day, reservation required). www.town.oshima.tokyo.jp/site/umifuru Ashinoko Camp Mura (Kanagawa) Ashinoko Camp Mura is the only campsite on Hakone's iconic Lake Ashinoko. Rather than rushing through Hakone on a day trip, relax and enjoy the views of Mt. Fuji and the area’s many attractions.

Accommodation: Camping, Auto Camping, Cabins English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: Blankets, fans, heaters, towels BBQ Facilities: Yes. Food also available for purchase Access: 45 minutes by bus from Hakone Yumoto Station to Togendai bus stop. www.campmura.com Well Camp Nishi Tanzawa (Kanagawa) Catch your dinner in the fishing pond and enjoy hiking around the mountainous Nishi Tanzawa area, including a spot to view the magnificent Hondana Falls.

Accommodation: Camping, Auto Camping, Cottages, Lodges English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: Tents, sleeping mats, blankets, lanterns, tables, chairs BBQ Facilities: Yes. Food also available for purchase.

Access: 45 minutes by car from Oimatsuda IC on the Tomei Expressway. www.well-camp.com

Spring Hiyoshi Camp Field

GRAX Premium Camp Resort (Kyoto)

Kawayu Camp (Wakayama)

GRAX in Rurikei Onsen is Kyoto’s luxury campsite built at an altitude of 500 meters in Ruri Gorge. Enjoy natural hot springs, shop from the on-site vegetable market, and watch the illuminated Synesthasia Hills show.

Accommodation: Glamping, Trailers, Bungalows English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: Fully equipped.

BBQ Facilities: Yes. Food also available for purchase Access: 60 minutes by car from Kyoto City via National Route 9 and the Kyoto Jukan Expressway. www.grax.jp

Kawayu Onsen is on the legendary Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail. The town’s famous river bubbles up hot spring water if you dig into the river bed. Kawayu Camp (also known as Kodama no Sato) sits directly on the rivershore.

Accommodation: Camping English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: No BBQ Facilities: Yes. Food available for purchase Access: Two hours by car from Wakayama City to Kawayu Onsen via the Hanwa Expressway and National Road 311.

Tel: (0735) 42-1168

KANSAI

Spring Hiyoshi Camp Field (Kyoto) If you’re new to camping, Spring Hiyoshi Camp Field built near Hiyoshi Dam in Kyoto Tamba Kogen Quasi-National Park is a great spot. Soak in natural hot springs, go bass fishing, canoeing or stand-up paddling at the dam’s lake.

Accommodation: Camping, Auto Camping English-Speaking Staff: Yes Rental Equipment: Tents, sleeping bags, blankets, tables, chairs.

BBQ Facilities: Yes. Local gibier meat and food available for purchase Access: Five minutes by car (or a 25-minute walk) from JR Hiyoshi Station or a seven-minute drive from Sonobe IC on the Kyoto Transit Expressway. www.springs-hiyoshi.co.jp Shima Autocamp (Mie) Shima Autocamp in Mie Prefecture is just minutes away from Azuri Beach. Spend a full day at the beach swimming, fishing and kayaking.

Accommodation: Camping, Auto Camping, Cottages, Glamping English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: Tents, sleeping bags, blankets, tables, chairs.

BBQ Facilities: Yes. Local seafood and food available for purchase.

Access: 60 minutes by car from Ise Nishi IC. If you’re coming by public transportation, disembark at Kintetsu Ugata Station on the Kintetsu Line and take the Mie Kotsu bus to Free Azurihama Bus Stop. The campsite is a three-minute walk from the bus stop. www.azuri.jp

Grampus Inn Shirahama (Wakayama) Relax at at the beach after exploring the Kumano Kodo Trail. Shirahama Beach is known for its white sand (imported from Australia). The nearby Shirahama Onsen is said to be one of the three oldest hot springs in Japan.

Accommodation: Camping, Auto Camping, Trailers, Lodges.

English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: Tents, blankets BBQ Facilities: Yes. Food available for purchase Access: Two hours by car from Osaka via the Hanwa Expressway and three hours by bus using the Meiko Bus from Osaka Namba OCAT to Senjoguchi Bus Stop. www.grampus.biz Yunohara Onsen Autocamp (Hyogo) This spacious autocamp site is located near the entrance to Ase Valley, which boasts 48 waterfalls including Gendayu Falls. The campground has hot spring facilities (two outdoor and two indoor baths) and a small restaurant.

Accommodation: Camping, Auto Camping, Cottages English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: Towels BBQ Facilities: Yes Access: 20 minutes by bus from Ebata Station to Kabata Bus Stop and a 25-minute walk from the bus stop to the campsite. www.yunohara.net Shima Autocamp

Tomogashima Camp (Wakayama) FREE Tomogashima is a small group of islands off the coast of Wakayama. The main island of Okinoshima is home to an abandoned military fort giving the island a mysterious feel. Free campsites overlook the ocean.

Accommodation: Camping English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: No BBQ Facilities: No Access: 45 minutes from Wakayama Station to Kada Station. Kada Port is a 15-minute walk from Kada Station. The ferry to Tomogashima Island takes 20 minutes (¥2,000 one way).

Summer 2020 | 21

Shikoku Saburo no Sato

CHUGOKU Sunagawa-koen Camp (Okayama) This campsite along the Sunagawa River features a water slide in summer.

Accommodation: Camping English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: No BBQ Facilities: No Access: A 15-minute walk from Hattori Station on the Kibi Line.

Tel: (0866) 92-1118 Matsue Shinji Furusato Shinrin-koen Camp (Shimane) Shimane’s brackish Lake Shinji produces delicious seafood and offers beautiful sunset views. There are many cultural attractions near the campsite including Matsue Castle and Shinjiko Onsen.

Accommodation: Camping, Auto Camping, Cabins, Cottages, Log Houses English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: Tents, sleeping bags, blankets, tables, chairs BBQ Facilities: Yes. Food available for purchase Access: 20 minutes by bus from Shinji Station to Shinrin Koen Bus Stop. www.forestpark.or.jp/camp Yanagijaya Camp (Tottori) FREE This free campsite provides easy access to Tottori’s famous landmark including the Tottori Sakyu (sand dunes).

Accommodation: Camping English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: No BBQ Facilities: No Access: 30 minutes by bus from Tottori Station to Tottori Sakyu Kodomo-no-kuni Bus Stop.

Miyajima Tsutsumigaura Camp (Hiroshima) This campsite is part of Tsutsumigaura Nature Park and popular for swimming and fishing.

It also provides easy access to Hiroshima’s iconic Itsukushima Floating Shrine.

Accommodation: Camping, Auto Camping, Cabins English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: Sleeping bags, camping beds, lanterns BBQ Facilities: Yes Access: Ten minutes by bus from Miyajima Pier to Tsutsumigaura. www.tsutsumigaura.com

Montbell Gokayama Base Camp

SHIKOKU Snow Peak Tosashimizu (Kochi)

Montbell Gokayama Base Camp (Fukuoka)

Japanese camping gear brand Snow Peak runs this campsite in Tatsukushi Marine Park, which is famous for corals and marine life.

Accommodation: Camping, Auto Camping, Mobile Homes English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: Tents, sleeping bags, lanterns, blankets, tables, chairs BBQ Facilities: Yes. Food available for purchase Access: Two hours by bus from Nakamura Station to Kaiteikan-mae Bus Stop, or an hour drive from Nakamura Station. https://sbs.snowpeak.co.jp/tosashimizu

In 2019, Japan outdoor retailer Montbell opened up their first campsite. Gokayama Base Camp is part of Gokayama Cross, Fukuoka's most accessible outdoor center.

The campsite is surrounded by pristine mountains and the Gokayama Dam and features an eight-meter climbing wall.

Accommodation: Camping, Auto Camping, Glamping English-Speaking Staff: Conversation level Rental Equipment: Tents, sleeping bags, lanterns, blankets, hammocks, tables, chairs BBQ Facilities: Yes Access: 54 minutes by car from Tenjin (Fukuoka City) via Route 385 or 24 minutes f r o m t h e To s a k i I C o n t h e N a g a s a k i Expressway. www.nakagawa-gokayama.com

Shikoku Saburo no Sato (Tokushima) This campsite is in Nishi Awa, Shikoku’s natural water park. Enjoy rafting and canoeing, hiking around the picturesque Iya Valley and paragliding.

Accommodation: Camping, Auto Camping, Camping Car Sites, Cottages English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: Tents, blankets, tables, chairs BBQ Facilities: Yes. Food available for purchase Access: The campsite is ten minutes by car from Mima IC on the Tokushima Expressway. www.mimacamp.jp Ebisuhama Camp (Tokushima) Watch sea turtles hatching and making their way back to the ocean at Ebisuhama Beach.

This campsite is minutes away from the beach and is popular for swimming, sea kayaking and stand-up paddling.

Accommodation: Camping English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: Tents, blankets BBQ Facilities: Yes Access: A 45-minute walk or an eight-minute drive from Hiwasa Station. http://ebisuhama.web.fc2.com

Beppu-shiei Shidakako Camp (Oita) This campsite serves as a base for travelers wanting to explore the famous onsen town of Beppu. Campers can enjoy fishing at nearby Lake Shidaka or challenge themselves to a tree obstacle course at Forest Adventure Beppu.

Accommodation: Tents English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: No BBQ Facilities: No Access: 40 minutes by bus from Beppu Station to Shidakako Bus Stop. www.shidakako.server-shared.com/~shidakako Qkamura Minami-Aso Camp (Kumamoto) Camp near Mt. Aso, Kyushu’s most famous volcano and one of the largest calderas in the world. This comfortable camp resort is situated within the caldera and is a gateway to Aso’s hiking trails.

Accommodation: Camping, Auto Camping, Canvas Tents English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: Tents, sleeping bags, lanterns BBQ Facilities: Yes. Local Akagyu beef and food available for purchase Access: Ten minutes by bus from Takamori Station to Kokuminkyuka-mura-mae Bus Stop. www.qkamura.or.jp/aso Sakaematsu Camp (Miyazaki)

Shikoku Saburo no Sato

22 | TRAVELER

KYUSHU

Sakaematsu Beach is popular for its clear, calm waters making it a great place for sea kayaking, snorkeling and boating. Oshima Island is a ten-minute ferry ride away.

Accommodation: Camping English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: Tents BBQ Facilities: Yes Access: A 30-minute walk from Nango Station. www.nango-on.jp

T h i s c a m p s it e in th e n orth e r n p art of Okinawa’s main island is seconds away from the white sands of Yagaji Beach where you can rent sea kayaks, SUP boards and snorkeling gear.

Accommodation: Camping, Auto Camping, Bungalows English-Speaking Staff: Yes Rental Equipment: Tents, sleeping bags, lanterns, tables, chairs BBQ Facilities: Yes. Wagyu beef and food available for purchase Access: 90 minutes by car from Naha Airport via the Okinawa Expressway. www.yagaji-beach.com

C A MPING CAR R E N TALS

Jungle Hut Okinawa Enjoy your own private beach and jungle on Hamahiga Island, a quiet island connected by a bridge to Okinawa’s main island. Rental bicycles and sea kayaking tours available.

Accommodation: Glamping Huts English-Speaking Staff: Yes Rental Equipment: Fully furnished BBQ Facilities: Yes Access: There are several taxis departing from Kaneku Gyokou (Fishing Port) Mae or Higa Gyokou (Fishing Port) Mae and will cost under ¥1,000 to Hamahiga Island. www.campingokinawa.com Yoneyama Camp (Ishigaki) This campsite is just a few minutes drive from Ishigaki’s famous Kabira Bay. Snorkel in clear waters among tropical fish and coral reefs, stroll along the coast and enjoy the sunset.

Shared bathrooms and showers are available.

Accommodation: Camping English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: No BBQ Facilities: No Access: 20 minutes by car from Ishigaki Airport via National Road 390 and Prefectural Road 87.

Tel: (0903) 079-3522

Overland Campers Japan

Overland Campers Japan Overland Campers Japan transforms four-wheel drives into mobile homes great for longdistance travel to remote locations. Explore Japan in a Suzuki Jimny Sierra or Toyota FJ Cruiser. www.overlandjapan.com Dream Drive Japan Dream Drive maps out onsen and spots for travelers to easily park for the night. Their recommended routes include a loop around Mt. Fuji, a weekend to the Izu peninsula and a road trip from Tokyo to Kyoto. Check out their custom-built kei-vans and full-size vans that sleep up to four persons. www.dreamdrive.life ADDITIONAL CAMPING CAR RENTALS IN JAPAN • Japan Road Trip: www.japanroadtrip.com • CamGo: www.camgo-campervan.com • Japan By Van: www.japanbyvan.com • Tokyo RV Campers: www.tokyo-rv.com • Japan Campers: www.japancampers.com • Arigato Camper : www.arigatocampervan.com • Camp in Car: www.japan-campervan.com

KIDS' SUMMER CAMPS Canyons Summer Camp (Gunma) Dates: July 5-10, July 12-17 Ages: 8 and up T h e s e m u l t i - d a y c a m p s a re r u n b y a n international team of professionals at Canyons who will be mentoring children on navigation, shelters, outdoor cooking, whitewater, risk management and “leave no trace” living. www.canyons.jp/en EdVenture Summer Kids Camp (Hokkaido) Dates: July 6-10, 13-17, 20-24, 27-31, Aug. 3-7, 10-14 Ages: 3 and up EdVenture is a hands-on camp for young children, teenagers and parents in Niseko, Hokkaido. The weeklong camp includes three one-day experiences where parents drop their kids off on Monday to Wednesday, and one overnight experience with a parent or guardian Thursday to Friday. Experiences include custom skateboard building, tree planting workshops, mountain biking, cultural excursions and organic vegetable farm visits. www.edventureniseko.com

Evergreen Summer Camp (Nagano) Dates: Day camps and multi-day camps between July 13-Aug. 27 Ages: 7 and up Ev e rg re e n Outdoor Center in H a kuba r u n s o u t d o o r e d u c a t i o n p ro g r a m s f o r international schools, families and groups in the Japan Alps. Programs range from day experiences to nine-day camps. Activities include raft building, hiking, river rafting, canyoning, mountain biking, stand-up paddle boarding, tree climbing, rock climbing, and orienteering. www.evergreen-hakuba.com English Adventure (Niigata) Dates: Multi-day camps between Aug. 3-23 Ages: 6 and up E n g l i s h A d v e n t u re r u n s E n g l i s h c a m p experiences for children from kindergarten to middle school. This three-day camp is nestled in the mountains near Tsunan in Niigata and emphasizes English speaking skills, personal development and growth. Fun camp activities include crafts, camp games, hiking and campfires. www.english-adventure.org

ADDITIONAL KIDS' SUMMER CAMPS

• Niseko Adventure Centre Camp (Hokkaido) July 25-Aug. 31 www.nacadventures.jp/en • Nanbo Discovery Camp (Chiba) July 5-Aug. 26 www.discoverjapan.co.jp • YMCA Summer Camp (Yamanashi & Nagano) End of July-mid-Aug. http://tokyo.ymca.or.jp/camp • Jinseki Summer School (Hiroshima) July 5-Aug. 8 www.need-japan.com/en/summerschool_2020.html • Air Toyo Summer Camp (Okinawa) July 26-Aug. 8 www.airtoyo.co.jp/summercamp

Check out the full Camping Guide online at

OutdoorJapan.com.

Fujino Kirameki

OKINAWA

Yagaji Beach Camp

Summer 2020 | 23

HOME IS WHERE YOU PARK IT

Exploring traditional mountain towns and hot spring villages with Nick Saxon and Shino Timmermans.

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P

ublic transport in Japan is by far the best in the world, yet the true magic of Japan—in all its rugged mountainous and mystical beauty—lies beyond the reach of bullet trains and local public transport. If you are able to get to a remote destination, finding comfortable accommodation to rest your weary bones can be challenging, time consuming and expensive.

A camper van is the perfect solution to eliminating the stress of finding a place to sleep and the difficulty of exploring off-the-beaten path destinations at your own pace. Besides, who doesn’t like sitting around a crackling fire, sipping on a cold beer after a long day hiking in the mountains or exploring Edo-era post towns?

All you need is a good co-pilot, your favorite road tripping soundtrack and some inspiration.

Our 2020 Japan journey started with an hour train ride from Haneda International Airport to the Dream Drive office in west Tokyo. When we arrived in Komae, the Dream Drive staff were friendly, knowledgeable and our van was prepped, sparkling clean and ready to roll. Our road trip started with a short drive through the city before jumping on the expressway bound for our first stop—Mt. Fuji.

1.

MT. FUJI (YAMANASHI) J a p a n ’s i c o n i c m o u n t a i n w a s a natural first destination as it was nor t hwe s t of To k yo in Ya ma nas hi Prefecture and en route to Nagano.

The Dream Drive team gave us some tips on places we could park and enjoy views of Mt. Fuji. Sure enough we were able to back right into a spot on a little lake (Saiko), pop the boot open and enjoy a stunning view of Fuji-san.

Not a bad way to star t the trip and waking up to a clear view of Mt. Fuji is unforgettable.

Summer 2020 | 25

2.

NOZAWA ONSEN (NAGANO) The next morning we set out for one of our favorite places in Japan, Nozawa Onsen. We can’t seem to stay away from this traditional mountain ski village with snow falls, warm hospitality and great vibes. Our winter gig at Winterland Lodge & Taproom is becoming an annual event. This is the one location we didn’t sleep in the van as we stayed in our friends' studio apartment at Yoji Nozawa and then a night at Winterland Lodge so we could enjoy hanging with our Winterland friends, eating delicious gyoza and enjoying some tasty craft beers after a fun night playing music for locals and guests. We parked the van out front and had a lot of people stopping by checking out the fully-loaded, custombuilt interior and pop top.

We s p e nt t he d ay s in Noz aw a Onsen ex ploring and busking our way around the quaint little ski town, with its gorgeous traditional temples and shrines at the top of the village, alone in the silence of the snow. After a few amazing days and nights with the Winterland crew, we departed for Shibu Onsen in search of monkeys and more hot springs.

3.

SHIBU ONSEN (NAGANO) The historic town of Shibu Onsen is only about 40 minutes from Nozawa Onsen and is another one of Japan’s tr aditional hot s pr ing tow ns. It is nestled in a narrow river valley. We par ked the c amper van alongside the Yokoyugawa River with the sound of the water sending us quickly of f to s le e p. We s p e nt t he following morning exploring the town, stopping for a pleasant lunch of yakitori and and some tasty Shiga Kogen beers.

After lunch, we set off for the nearby Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park. Its a wonderful way to spend the afternoon, watching these little monkeys chase each other around in the beautiful natural surroundings and relax in the hot springs.

4.

TAKAYAMA (GIFU) Next up was Takayama. This town, in the mountainous Hida Region of Gifu Prefecture, is well-preserved and still holds that traditional charm. You can close your eyes and imagine back to when the city thrived as a wealthy town of merchants back in the Edo Period. There are plenty of coffee shops and sake breweries, and you can even take a ride around town in a rickshaw if you have done enough walking. We arrived back in the van that night where we had left some beers in the snow, which were perfectly cold and just right for a night cap while watching the sun sink over Takayama.

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5.

SHIRAKAWA-GO (GIFU) Shirakawago is a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is only about an hour drive from Takayama but we decided to take our time and spent the night at one of the many road stations found t hroughout t he countr y k now n as michi-no-eki. These spots are great for breaking up long drives as they have public bathrooms, vending machines with hot coffee and often restaurants and other facilities. They also allow overnight parking.

The postcards we had seen did not do justice. The famous gassho zukkuri farmhouses still had some snow on their roofs. The weather was perfect and blue skies made walking through the village an absolute pleasure. This was yet another place that had our jaws hanging low in awe. Some of these farmhouses were more than 250 years old. The centuries-old architectural style is designed to withstand heavy amounts of snow in the region. We paid a small fee to take a tour inside one of the farmhouses and found no nails were used in the construction of these buildings. The whole design was fascinating to see first hand.

We spent the night parked up in the hills, nestled away in a quiet gravel area surrounded by pines. It was too hard to leave so we decided to spend a second day there to explore further; it would’ve been difficult if we were in a hotel or ryokan as accommodation is often full here, but we didn’t need a reservation where we were staying.

6.

TSUMAGO-JUKU (NAGANO) The following morning, we were once again greeted by gentle falling snow as we stepped out of the van for our mor ning cof fee. T he road was calling so we said our farewells to Shirakawaga-go and headed for another of the well-preserved ancient trading towns in Japan: Tsumago-juku.

It was only a three-hour drive from Shirakawago, and it snowed the whole way, but once we arrived, it once again felt as though we slipped back in time.

A this point of the trip we had figured the gods were watching over us. Not only had we had good weather, but we managed to arrive with very few tourists around, making the whole experience even more relaxing. It is not hard to navigate Tsumago’s single road through the village. The locals smiled as we passed through each little house, some occupied, others empty. Coffee shops and cafe’s were here and there, giving us our much needed caffeine fix. The whole region feels at peace, and the sound of our own footsteps became more apparent.

Af ter more walking and exploring, eventually night fell on the Kiso Valley, and we ate our own weight in delicious local dishes, cold beer and local sake, then retired to the van.

7.

NARAI-JUKU (NAGANO) Narai-juku was only an hour away, s o we enjoye d a late s t ar t out of Tsumago and arrived around midday.

It was our second time here, the last during the summer season. it was amazing to see the town in late winter, with snow still falling on the village as we walked the ancient streets. Narai has a quiet, soothing atmosphere, miles away from the frantic major cities on Japan’s Pacific coast. There are many traditional r yokan where you duck away from the cold. We didn’t mind getting covered in snow while snapping some last shots.

W e s o a k e d u p o u r f i n a l d a y, k nowing o ur t r ip had reac he d it s end. Spending time in these peaceful places was nourishing. Several beers and toasts to whoever would bend an ear were made that night, as our snow burnt cheeks seemed frozen in smiles. We wouldn’t allow ourselves to think about the journey home, we were going to stay living in this moment as long as we could. v

TRAVEL TIPS: The camper van made everything so much easier. There’s nothing quite like traveling without time restraints. There’s so much beauty around every corner in Japan, so the hard part is choosing your path, but the benefit of having a traveling hotel is you can go whichever way the wind blows.

Be sure to organize your International Driver’s License before you get to Japan and check out the SIM card options at the airport so you can use Google Maps and easily find michi-no-eki, gas stations and convenience stores to keep you fueled up. Also note many local businesses only take cash.

Singer/Songwriter Nick Saxon is also a voiceover artist and freelance presenter for the National Geographic Channel. Shino Timmermans is a photographer who also runs her own vintage clothing label and is fluent in three languages. You can follow their journey through Japan and “Songs Beyond Borders” on Facebook @nicksaxonmusic and on Outdoor Japan. Nick Saxon’s new single “Be My Forever” was written while road tripping in Japan and is out now on Spotify & iTunes.

Summer 2020 | 27

Travel &Adventure DIRECTORY

Refresh your Mind, Body & Soul

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Whitewater rafting, canyoning, adventure combos.....

0278-72-2811 www.canyons.jp

28 | TRAVELER

Travel &Adventure DIRECTORY

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Summer 2020 | 29

Travel &Adventure DIRECTORY

CELEBRATING HUMAN POWER AND INTRODUCING THE QUIET BACKSTREETS, BEAUTIFUL PARKS AND UNIQUE CULTURE OF TOKYO NOT FOUND ON TOURIST MAPS.

freewheeling.jp 30 | TRAVELER

Summer 2020 | 31

32 | TRAVELER