Outdoor Japan Traveler | Issue 69 | Autumn 2018

ISSUE 69

AUTUMN 2018

TRAVELER

EVERY SEASON IS A NEW ADVENTURE

FREE | ¥0

PANORAMA GINZA TRAIL TIME TRAVELING TO KAWANE NATURE AND HISTORY IN SHONAI HUNAN'S FLOATING MOUNTAINS

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INSIDE ISSUE 69

AUTUMN 2018

23

Trekking the Panorama Ginza Trail

FEATURES

14 Time Traveling through Kawane 16 Family Friendly Fuji Camping 18 Air it Out 20 Hunan’s Floating Mountains 26 Nature and History in Shonai INSIDE

5 . . . . From the Editor

8 . . . . Cycling Japan

11 . . . . . Local Brew

6 . . . . Events

9 . . . . Fat Tire Fun

12. . . . . Beer Buzz

7 . . . . Outdoor Japan Adventures

10 . . . . Market Watch

28 . . . . Travel & Adventure Directory AUTUMN 2018

3

FROM THE EDITOR Published Seasonally

A

s we mark the 13th anniversary of Outdoor Japan’s magazine (and 18 years since Outdoor Japan first went online), it’s fun to look back at the long exciting ride. Like all great adventures there have been some scary moments along the way. We’ve made it through SARS, the bird flu, the Great Tohoku Earthquake and a yen that has bounced around a bit over the past nearly two decades. When we launched in 2000, Japan had a modest 4,757,146 inbound tourists. When our first mag went to print (in 2005) numbers had climbed to 6,727,926. We are on the brink of two big years for tourism in Japan—the Rugby World Cup is coming in 2019 and 2020 brings the Tokyo Summer Olympics. Yet in 2017 a record 28,690,900 inbound travelers chose to visit Japan and in the first half of 2018 there were 15,899,063 foreign travelers, which puts us on pace to break 30 million for the first time.

The future looks bright for Japan and we plan to be part of it. Since the beginning we’ve seen our industry change in significant and extreme ways. We’ve seen countless magazines and newspapers disappear.

Traditional advertising has been replaced by social media and booking engines. Like a shark, in media you have to keep moving or die. While we are proud to (stubbornly) be still publishing with ink on paper, we also need to continue to strike that delicate balance between what our readers want and what our sponsors demand.

If you’ve been following OJ regularly you’ve probably noticed we’ve been doing a lot more video production in tandem with the stories we’ve been running. It’s where the media winds are taking us and what people want to see. Practically, we can simply reach many more travelers and outdoor enthusiasts in a more timely manner by going straight to web and social media. Our goal is to increase this without giving up on print entirely, as many have done by choice or necessity.

This issue marks a transition for us as we have some big changes in store from Winter 2019. We’ll be doing a digital media revamp, starting with consolidating our websites that include OutdoorJapan.com, our new tours and travel booking engine at OutdoorJapanAdventures.com and our Japan Snow Guide. We are cutting down on the number of pages in the hard copy of the magazine but we will be offering more regular editorial and video content online which readers will be able to find on our website and social media.

We are excited about the future of travel and tourism in Japan, and we hope you’ll enjoy this issue that includes some fun autumn travel destinations and activities. Be sure to follow us on Facebook and Instagram where there’s even more Japan-focused content at your fingertips including our video library. Every season is a new adventure in Japan—get out there and enjoy this one!

お

かげさまで弊社アウトドア・ジャパンが雑誌を創刊して 13 年となりまました（オンラインでは 18 年目）。振り返ってみると、 楽しくかつエキサイティングな思い出がつぎつぎによみがえってきます。日本のすばらしい冒険を紹介してきたあいだにも いろいろな事件が起きました。SARS や鳥インフルエンザ事件から、東北で起こった未 曾有の大震災など、この国のさまざ まな事象によって円レートも 18 年間影響を受けつづけてきました。弊社を立ち上げた 2000 年に日本を訪れた外国の旅行者は約 480 万人でした。雑誌を創刊した 2005 年には 670 万人に増加しました。現在、日本はこの国のツーリスムにとってふたつの大イベ ントを控えています。2019 年のラグビー・ワールドカップと 2020 年の東京オリンピック夏季大会です。2017 年は 2,800 万人という 記録的な外国人旅行者が日本を訪れましたが、今年 2018 年は半年ですでに 1,600 万人を記録しています。この調子でいくと年末 には 3,000 万人という新記録を達成するかもしれません。 日本の観光産業にとってはまさに春到来といった感じです。弊社もその末席を汚さぬように準備を進めています。メディアの世界 では大きな変革が起こっていることはここで私が申し上げるまでもないでしょう。これまで数えきれないほどの雑誌や新聞が廃刊に追 い込まれてきました。伝統的な広告媒体がソーシャルメディアや旅行予約サイトにその座を奪われてきています。この世界ではサメのよ うにつねに前進していないと死が訪れます。そのような目まぐるしい状況を踏まえても私たちは紙にインクで印刷する本の価値を忘れ ず、かたくなに発行していくつもりです。もちろん応援してくれる読者のニーズや広告主の方々の要望にも対応し、デリケートにバランス を維持していくのは当然だと考えています。 さて弊社アウトドア・ジャパンをご存知の皆さまならば、私たちが配信している動画についてはもうご存知のことと思います。そこ に登場するさまざまな場所は一般のメディアではたどり着くことのできないような核心部分です。それを考えるとウェブサイトや SNS で 多数の旅行者やアウトドア愛好家へと繋がるのがいまではいちばん実際的でしょう。ところが私たちのめざすゴールはすべての読者へ 選択肢を与えその要求に応えることですから、その意味を踏まえても本の発行を諦めることはできないのです。 さて今号は 2019 年のウインター・シーズンを直前にして、新たな展開に向けてのイシューとなりました。私たちはウェブサイトの強 化を目的に改革をおこなう計画中です。そのサイトは OutdoorJapan.com とツアーや旅の予約サイト OutdoorJapanAdventures. com や Japan Snow Guide です。前述のとおり本の発行はこれからもおこないますが、ページ数は減らしその代わりウェブサイトや SNS での記事やビデオコンテンツの充実を図る予定です。秋の旅行やアクティビティの情報が満載のアウトドア・ジャパンをご活用いた だければ幸いです。 弊社の Facebook や Instagram へも時間がありましたらアクセスしてください。ディープな日本にフォーカスしたすぐに使える情 報がビデオ・ライブラリーでご覧いただけます。日本のアウトドアを楽しみたいすべての人々にすてきな情報をお届けしようと編集部 一同はりきっています。新しい季節に向けて新しい冒険があなたを待っています。すぐにドアを開いて飛びだそう！

Publisher Outdoor Japan Media Editor-in-Chief Gardner Robinson Editor Bill Ross Media Coordinator Rie Miyoshi Design Mojoworks Contributing Editors Rie Miyoshi, Shigeo Morishita Translators Yoshine Lee, Eri Nishikami, Lana Sofer Contributors Gint Atkinson, Joan Bailey, Amy Chavez, Lee Dobson, Bryan Harrell, Neil Hartmann, Yuske Hirota, Abdel Ibrahim, Pete Leong, Pauline Kitamura, Takashi Niwa, Tim Rock, Justin Stein

Outdoor Japan Media 8782-2 Toyosato Nozawaonsen-mura Shimotakai-gun, Nagano-ken 389-2502

Sales & Marketing media@outdoorjapan.com Editorial editor@outdoorjapan.com www.facebook/japantraveler www.twitter.com/outdoorjapan www.youtube.com/outdoorjapan www.instagram.com/outdoorjapan

—Gardner Robinson

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Traveler magazine is available at selected lounges, reservations counters and in-flight libraries with the following airline partners.

トラベラーマガジンは、空港ラウンジや予約カウンターや、右記航空会社インフライト・ライブラリーにてお読みいただけます。

©2018 OUTDOOR JAPAN INC. all rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited.

Views expressed herein are not necessarily those of OUTDOOR JAPAN INC. Printed in Japan.

Cover Photo: Trekking the Kita Alps Photo: Rie Miyoshi

AUTUMN 2018

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Pet-Friendly Hiking at Mt. Kasagi

Oct 2 Nov 7 1 Dec 7 8

Guidelines n Events Autum

Oct

22

Jidai Matsuri, Kyoto

Naha Marathon Also called the “Festival of Sun, Ocean and Joggers,” the Naha Marathon is one of Japan’s long-distance road races. Starting at Ohnoyama Stadium, the marathon circles the Naha region and the course is lined with taiko drummers and eisa dancers.

Dec. 2 Naha, Okinawa Web: www.naha-marathon.jp

Outdoor Cooking in Nara Jidai Matsuri

Shirasagi-no Mai (White Heron Dance)

More than 2,000 people will parade in traditional Japanese garments through Kyoto, reflecting the region’s 1,200-year history. The procession starts from Kyoto Imperial Palace, traveling along Oike-dori to Heian Jingu Shrine. Special seats with English guidance are available for ¥3,500 from Kyoto City Tourism Association: Tel: (075) 213-1717

Asakusa’s famous Sensoji Temple hosts the Shirasagi-no Mai ceremonial parade featuring eight dancers dressed as white herons to depict ancient stories from the Heian Period (8th to 12th century). This 1,000-year-old dance starts at Nakamise shopping street and through the Hozomon gate up to the steps of Sensoji where all the heron dancers bow before running inside.

Oct. 22 (Kyoto Imperial Palace: noon, Oike-dori street: 12:50 p.m., Heian Jingu Shrine: 2:30 p.m.).

Kyoto Imperial Palace /Oike-dori street/ Heian Jingu Shrine www.kyoto-magonote.jp/en

Pet-Friendly Hiking at Mt. Kasagi Go for a relaxing autumn trek with your pet up Mt. Kasagi in Kyoto. Mt. Kasagi is a 288-meter mountain famous for its rich history and vibrant kouyou (autumn leaves). After the hike, cool down by Kizukawa River. This pet-friendly hike is organized by Japan’s top outdoor retailer, Montbell.

Oct. 27, Nov. 17, Dec. 8 Mt. Kasagi, Kyoto www.event.montbell.jp

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Nov. 3 Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

Autumn Illumination View kouyou under the night sky at Rikugien Gardens. Built during the Edo period, this daimyo teien belonged to a feudal lord and remains a popular destination to view the autumnal foliage.

Mid-Nov. – Beg. of Dec. Rikugien Gardens, Tokyo

Learn Dutch oven cooking outdoors—a perfect way to warm up during the chilly autumn nights. Hosted by Montbell, this event will take place at the foot of Mt. Ikoma bordering Nara and Osaka prefectures.

Dec. 2, Jan. 12, Feb. 2 Mt. Ikoma, Nara www.event.montbell.jp

Sendai Stadium Sprint Five kilometers, 20 obstacles; this edition of the Spartan series is their shortest distance and perfect for athletes of all levels. Be sure to use public transportation to get to the venue as there are no parking spaces. The venue is five minutes from Miyaginohara Station or 25 minutes from Sendai Station.

Dec. 15 Sendai Stadium, Miyagi www.spartanrace.jp

Winter Holidays at Niseko

Head to Ecopa Stadium in Kakegawa, Shizuoka—one of the venues of Rugby World Cup 2019—for Tour De Nippon’s last race of the year.

Spend a snowy Christmas and New Year in the powder. Niseko’s four major resorts (Annupuri, Grand Hirafu, Niseko Village and Hanazono) will be celebrating Christmas and New Years with live music, fireworks, torchlight skking and first tracks.

Nov. 25 Kakegawa, Shizuoka www.tour-de-nippon.jp

Dec. 20-25 Niseko, Hokkaido www.nisekotourism.com

Tour De Nippon

Autumn Adventures Ou t d oo r J a p a n

Every season is a new adventure!

Autumn is the perfect season to get out and explore Japan with cool, clear weather and vibrant alpine colors. Here’s a taste of what’s on the menu this season at Outdoor Japan Adventures.

Hidden Japan in Yamagata

Head up to Tohoku for a unique experience exploring Yamagata’s Gassan Geopark and the Shonai Region. Hike up Mt. Gassan with The Hidden Japan gathering wild mushrooms and local mountain vegetables. You’ll also tour the sacred Mt. Haguro where you might see yamabushi (mountain priests) in training.

After the hike, you will join a cooking class taught by local villagers.

Trail Running in Okutama

Take a break from your hectic city life and join Free Bird Alpine for trail running in Okutama. Even if you’re not into trail running, easy hiking tours with stops at sake breweries are also available. Free Bird Alpine also runs crowd-free trail runs on Mt. Fuji during summer and ice climbing in the winter.

Wildlife Photography Workshops in Hokkaido

Join professional photographer—and long-time Hokkaido resident—Aaron Jamieson for an unforgettable photography workshop around Japan’s northernmost island. He will guide you to some secret spots where you’ll find rare wildlife including the red-crested crane and giant eagle (the biggest in the world) and also see lakes, ice flows and rugged and wild landscapes. These workshops are usually a week long and include transportation, accommodation and some meals.

Autumn MTB in Hakuba

Hakuba is one of Japan’s top spots for hiking and mountain biking in autumn. Board the gondola to make your ascent up into the Northern Japanese Alps. Evergreen Adventures, based at the foot of Hakuba Happo-One, offers cycling and hiking tours catered to all levels, from families with children to intermediate riders who want to see more of the valley. Ride scenic trails along mountain rivers and weave through forest trails and rice fields as Hakuba prepares for winter. For something more intense, join a downhill tour (includes transportation to the top of the hills in eastern Hakuba).

Coastal Cycling in Chiba

Join Oka Tours for a cycling tour on Boso Peninsula’s quiet roads, winding past charming farm villages, seasonal flower fields, seafood ports and Oyama Senmaida—listed as one of Japan’s most beautiful terraced rice paddies. The peninsula, which comprises the southern half of Chiba, is still a relatively unknown destination.

As the terrain is mostly flat, this three-day tour is great for short, relaxing getaways from Tokyo. A minimum of four participants is required for the tour. Accommodation (including a one-night stay at a traditional minshuku ), meals, rental bikes and guide support included.

www.o utdoor japana dventu res.com

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Japan’s g n i b m i Cl Highest Road Mount Norikura, Nagano Prefecture

By Takashi Niwa

T

he Norikura Echo Line is the highest bikable road in Japan. The route is closed to private motor vehicles, making it heaven for cyclists who love to have long mountain climbs all to themselves.

The most popular ride is to start the climb in the morning after an overnight stay at Norikura Kogen. Access by car or bus to the highland is recommended as roads from Matsumoto City, at the foot of the mountain, have many narrow tunnels.

Norikura Kanko Center, in the center of the spa resort, is situated at an elevation of 1,454 meters. The route gains 1,260 meters in elevation in 19.9 kilometers to Tatamidaira, a little plateau just below the peak. The average gradient is 6.3%, which is not that steep, but it is a very long climb.

The charms of the ride come in the latter half. Magnificent views open up as you climb above the timberline. The only places to find food on the route are Kuraigahara Sanso Lodge (at 16.3 kilometers) and Tatamidaira, so be sure to bring enough food and water to get you to the top. Bring sufficient clothing layers for cold conditions as well. The rule of thumb is the air temperature drops 0.6 degrees centigrade for each elevation gain of 100 meters and there could well be additional wind chill. Tatamidaira can also be reached from the foot of the mountain on the opposite side in Gifu Prefecture.

As you climb higher, the Hotaka Mountains and other peaks come into view.

Mid-September is the best time for autumn leaves.

Staying overnight at a lodge in Tatamidaira gives you the chance to enjoy the sunrise and climb on foot to the peak of Mount Norikura.

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Autumn Mountain Biking

J

apan’s resorts have slowly but steadily been building mountain bike parks and maintaining trails. While there is still a ways to go before Japan catches up to the Whistlers and Vails of the world, things are definitely on the right track and there are some great cross country, downhill, tours and parks available for all levels and abilities. Autumn is the time to get your wheels spinning and visit some beautiful areas around Japan.

Fujiten (Yamanashi)

Fujiten has an impressive lineup of trails for all levels and is supported by professional mountain biker Daisu Takahashi who is there during the season to supervise a beginner’s halfday clinic (reservations only). There are seven courses starting with the easy Roller Coaster and Grasshopper, both around 1,000 meters long.

Dark Volcano is unique to this location as it is at the foot of Mt. Fuji and utilizes the region’s lava soil for more advanced technical rides. The 1,160-meter Matty’s Loops trail has been featured in overseas media.

Open: May – Oct. www.summer.fujiten.net

Hakuba Iwatake (Nagano)

When Japan had a short MTB boom in the early ‘90s, Hakuba was one of the first areas on board, hosting the country’s biggest MTB races of that era. Today there are five major trails, the most popular ones being the Kamikaze Downhill Course with an elevation of 1,272 meters and the Cross Country Course through Iwatake Forest.

There are also courses designed specifically to improve your technique like the Fun Ride Course with up-down trails and the Dual Pump Track.

If you’re just starting out, there are the Mountain Cycling Course which is Japan’s highest touring course and the beginner-friendly Alps Downhill Course. After a day on the slopes, have a drink at the newly opened Hakuba Mountain Harbor Café and Viewing Deck run by Hakuba Brew Pub (www.hakubabrewpub.com).

Bike and gear rentals are available from Spicy Rentals. For serious riders looking to level up, long-time adventure operator Evergreen holds MTB workshops, clinics and certification courses through the Professional Mountain Bike Instructors Association.

Open: April – Early Nov. www.nsd-hakuba.jp

Yatsugatake (Yamanashi)

Join a local guide on a seven-kilometer course. The trail is generally wide with 90% downhill making it ideal for children and those starting out in mountain biking. This trail will also take you past Yatsugatake’s old forest roads and pastures which are exceptional during full bloom. Our friends at Yatsugatake Cycling, run by ex-Canada and Japan pro Paul Chetwynd, also offer rentals, tours and self-guided tours in the area.

Open: Apr. – Nov. www.backyardgaragehouse.com/touring-2 www.yatsugatakecycling.com

Nozawa (Nagano)

During green season, Nozawa Onsen’s popular Yamabiko course is the prime MTB location and is easy to access with the Nagasaka Gondola running in July and August. The gondola takes you up 1,400 meters high and from there, you can enjoy 10 kilometers of trail that leads all the way down to Hikage Gondola or choose to take the winding Forest Trail. After the gondola closes you can still enjoy the trails but you’ll either need to ride up, shuttle up or join a tour with the guides at Compass House. The Sports Park is great for kids and also open until the ski resort opens in November.

Open: July – Nov. www.nozawaski.com/summer/mtb

Morning Tour

ur

Afternoon To

9:00 a.m. — 12:00 p.m.

Illumination

1:30 — 4:30 p.m.

Tour (Seasonal)

5:30 p.m. — 8:00 p.m.

Niseko (Hokkaido)

Niseko Grand Hirafu may be more famous for powder snow but it also boasts 3,000 meters of downhill for intermediate and advanced riders. The gondola operates during July to September, but even if you missed this time period, you can still enjoy the nearby Ginto Village Trail, a flow trail free to the public.

Open: July – Sept. www.grand-hirafu.jp

Price: ¥6,700 + 8% tax

info@cyclingholiday.tokyo http://cyclingholiday.tokyo

AUTUMN 2018

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MARKET WATCH

By Joan Bailey

OSANBASHI MARCHE

T

he newest addition to the array of farmers markets in the Tokyo and Yokohama regions is the Osanbashi Marche. When no ships are scheduled, the market fills the dock just below the main port building and offers a taste of local and unique fare in an unusual and beautiful location.

Less than a year old, the Osanbashi Marche is the brainchild of officials in the Yokohama Port Office.

“We wanted to introduce local pro­ ducts and make use of this great space,” said Yuichiro Imamura, Senior Executive Director of the Port of Yokohama Promotion Association.

Nearly 80 vendors are on hand when the market is on, catering to roughly 15,000 visitors. Live music, fresh vegetables, scrumptious baked goods and some spectacular food trucks blend with live music throughout the day for a mix of fun and food that’s hard to beat.

Satoh Nouen comes from Yamanashi Prefecture to share their sweet bounty.

Grower Yuichi Satoh’s peaches appear in early summer, followed by grapes and nashi (Japanese pears) in fall. A selection of Grade B fruits—those with small imperfections—are perfect for homemade jam or serious snacking and available at a slightly lower price. Get there early though as they go fast!

Akira Tanaka, the second generation proprietor of Mukashi no Aji Tamago in Sagamihara, Kanagawa Prefecture, brings his

Osanbashi Marche www.osanbashi.jp 10:30 a.m. – 4 p.m.  Oct. 20-21; Nov. 23-24, 2018

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farm-raised eggs to the market to meet and talk with customers directly. Tanaka took over the family business 40 years ago and continues the tradition of sharing a tasty version of a kitchen staple with a focus on quality feed and a chemical-free environment for their laying hens.

Visitors will find a number of food carts to choose from, but The Miso Fish Stand is worth a stop. After the 2011 triple disaster, founder Takumi Takase volunteered and subsequently moved to Kesennuma in Miyagi Prefecture. Making good use of unused shark meat from the shark fin soup industry there, Takase combined it with local miso and created a delectable fish sandwich made fresh to order. Paired with a local craft beer, it’s a fantastic meal.

A little irregularly scheduled but always fun, the Osanbashi Marche is full of delightful treats for visitors of all ages. If you are looking for something special to do in Yokohama that offers a taste of the area, this market is just for you.

By Bryan Harrell

T

his Nagano brewery started out as a public/private joint venture back in 1994. The first two decades brought uneven success. Initially the beers were so popular they had trouble filling orders. Yet there were a number of beers that were essentially knock-offs of commercial brews and sales began to slow. The beers as a whole weren’t bad but also never left a lasting impression with lovers of great beer. Like some regional tourist area beers, they were perceived as “souvenir beers” rather than serious craft beers.

In recent years, however, they have found more solid footing, producing beers of greater character. A superb example is their new pro­ duct named Raiden Kannnuki IPA. The beer is a fabulously bitter and refreshing brew, with a tasty drinkability and an overall impressive bal-

ance. It is safe to say it is the kind of beer, with a broad enough appeal, that will contribute to the continued success of the brewery and do their region proud.

The Oh! La! Ho! brewery and restaurant is located between Nagano City and Saku in the town of Tomi. The restaurant is open for both lunch and dinner, and affords a fantastic view of the surrounding area with surprisingly reasonable prices. The beer list not only includes regular brews such as a golden ale, amber ale, kölsch and pale ale, but also their popular Captain Crow extra pale ale, Raiden Kannuki IPA and a new session IPA named 2 Tone. Note that the restaurant is closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays.

Conveniently located next to the restaurant is Yurarikan Onsen. Visitors can enjoy a soak in the hot springs during the day before or after enjoying a refreshing beer.

Oh! La! Ho! Brewing www.tomi-kosya.com  3875 Kanoh, Tomi-shi, Nagano-ken 389-0505  (0268) 64-0003 11:30 a.m to 2 p.m. and 5:30 to 9 p.m.  (last order 8:30) Closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays

AUTUMN 2018

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By Justin Stein

A

sleepy ski town and hot spring village in northern Nagano Prefecture has become an unexpected hot spot for craft beer lovers. Nozawa Onsen is probably more associated with nihonshu , which flows freely at its famous Dōsojin Matsuri fire festival, where a huge wooden structure is set ablaze every January 15. But now with several taprooms and a top-notch brewery, Nozawa Onsen may also become another must-visit location for beer lovers checking out Nagano’s quickly expanding scene.

Nozawa Onsen’s longest running craft beer bar, The Craft Room, was the brainchild of Outdoor Japan’s founder, Gardner Robinson.

In the summer of 2011, one of Outdoor Japan’s sponsors approached him about a space just a few steps from Nozawa Onsen’s Nagasaka Gondola. Gardner had been snowboarding in Nozawa Onsen Snow Resort since 1997, the year before the resort hosted several events for the Nagano Winter Olympics, and had been wanting to combine his passion for outdoors and craft beer, both forged in his native Oregon. Later that year, he and friend David Elsworth opened The Craft Room.

To complement the beers they partnered with Allpress Espresso, a New Zealand-based coffee roaster, to get top-quality beans from Allpress’ Tokyo roastery. Allpress’ owner, Michael Allpress was inspired by Seattle’s coffee scene in the late ‘80s and went from New Zealand’s first coffee cart to roasting coffee in an Auckland garage to working with over a thousand inde-

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Powder, Hot Springs and Hops pendent cafes around the world. The Craft Room was the first cafe at a Japanese ski resort to work with Allpress. Seven years later, this ski-in ski-out cafe and craft beer bar remains the best place for après-ski and great coffee in Nozawa Onsen.

When The Craft Room opened, most of their beers came from western U.S. breweries.

However, as Japanese breweries have grown in number and quality, the eight taps are now an even mix of imports (mostly U.S.) and Japanese craft beers. Among their most popular beers last ski season was Joy Juice v.2 (6.2%), a hazy, fruit-forward, not-bitter New England IPA (a style I featured in Issue #64, Summer 2017), from just down the street at Anglo Japanese Brewing Company (AJBC).

AJBC is owned and operated by Tom and Emiko Livesey, who respectively constitute the English and Japanese aspects of their brewery’s name. They met in London, where Tom was a sculptor (and homebrewer) and Emiko worked in finance. They moved to Nozawa in 2012, opened AJBC in December 2013 and Libushi (里武士), their charming tap room, the following month.

Since that time, AJBC has been putting out adventurous, delicious beers, including a Barrel Reserve series where they age various styles suitable for wood aging (like sour beers and barleywines) in oak barrels, often with locally sourced fruit. This summer, they expanded from the initial 3hL brewhouse at Libushi to a new 25hL system, pulling double batches into 50hL fermenters. They also recently received Japan’s first oak foeders in which they will ferment a variety of tart and funky beers (see Issue #62,

Winter 2017 for more on aging and fermenting on wood). I am hoping to sample some of those new beers at the Saisons, Sours, Barrels, and Brett festival on November 3: Asia’s first beer event focused on sour, funky, and wood-aged beers, featuring offerings from AJBC, other Japanese breweries and imports!

Gardner’s latest project, the Winterland Lodge & Taproom, is a boutique hotel, taproom, and gyoza bar that will open this winter in the heart of the village. The name is a nod to Nozawa’s great snow and San Francisco’s legendary Winterland Ballroom, one of the most significant venues for that city’s musical explosion in the 1960s and ‘70s, particularly as the home base for the Grateful Dead. Gardner and his business partner, Chris Hinds, have been going to Dead shows since the 1980s. The décor of Winterland will combine traditional Japanese reclaimed wood and vintage art and music from the era.

The restaurant will specialize in gyoza, with a variety of custom-made flavors including ones with local nozawana (a kind of mustard leaf that is a Nagano specialty). Winterland’s twelve taps will feature local and international craft beers and ciders. As it is conveniently located right across from Nozawa’s main bus stop, Winterland will be a great place to grab some gyoza and a pint or two after a day on the hill.

Nozawa Onsen’s thirteen free hot springs, great snow and traditional atmosphere are reason enough to come to this quintessential mountain village, but beer lovers will be surprised to find such a vibrant craft beer scene in this corner of Nagano Prefecture.

Anglo Japanese Beer Company www .anglojapanesebeer .com ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••

FESTIVAL ROUNDUP

www .libushi .com ••••••••••••••••

Sep 28-Oct 14 Yokohama Oktoberfest Oct 10-14 Kyushu Beer Festival in Tokyo Oct 11 Akita Oktoberfest (Akita) Oct 13-14 BigBeerStep v.9 (Osaka) Oct 14 Kuroiso Beer Fest (Tochigi)

Libushi Taproom

Winterland Lodge & Taproom www .winterlandlodge .com •••••••••••••••••••••••••

The Craft Room

www .facebook .com/craftroom .jp •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••

Oct 27 Nov 3 Nov 3-4

Yona Yona Cho-otage (Tokyo) Saisons Sours Barrels and Brett (Nagano) Fall Beer Festival in Namamugi (Yokohama)

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e n a w Ka oshi y i M e i R By

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chugging sound interrupted intermittently by a shrill whistle cuts through the silence of the Okuoi Mountains. In the distance, a coal-fed locomotive crosses over a striking red bridge, past rice fields ready for harvest. For a split second, it feels like you are back in the Showa Period in Japan.

Nostalgic Kawane located in Shizuoka Prefecture’s Southern Alps is famous with trainspotters, as it is one of the last places in Japan with an operating steam locomotive.

In 1976, Oigawa Railway started a project to revitalize vintage steam locomotives (“SLs”) that were built in the 1930s. Today, these trains are maintained at Shin-Kanaya Station.

From Shin-Kanaya Station, the steam locomotive departs for Senzu Station, stopping at Ieyama, Kawane Onsen Sasamado and Shimoizumi along the way. After the conductor punches your ticket, sit back on velvet seats and enjoy an ekiben (lunchboxes you can buy at the station) during the 80-minute ride as the scenery changes from suburbs to gorges, wide rivers and mountains. Friendly elderly women stroll down the aisle selling drinks, snacks and souvenirs you can only purchase on board.

The ride is exceptionally beautiful in spring when sakura blossoms are in bloom and autumn for kouyou (leaves changing color).

The train runs once per day (roundtrip from Shin-Kanaya to Senzu) and costs ¥2,520 one way. All seats are reserved and sell out fast, so check the schedule and purchase tickets beforehand at www.oigawa-railway.co.jp/en.

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Bridge over Turquoise Waters Once you’ve arrived at Senzu Onsen, take a 30-minute bus ride to Sumatakyo Onsen. Hike an easy three-kilometer trail into the valley to the “Bridge of Dreams,” a suspension bridge constructed eight meters over an impossibly turquoise river. The water is so clean only blue light with shorter wavelengths is reflected and red light (longer wavelengths) is absorbed.

Although sturdy, this 90-meter shaky bridge holds only up to eleven people at once so expect a line on busy weekends. It is said that if you wish for love at the middle of the bridge, your romantic dreams will come true. Even if you don’t meet the love of your life here, at least you’ll be treated to a surreal view of Sumatakyo Gorge’s vibrant blues and greens.

Back at the trailhead is Sumatakyo Onsen, where you can stop for soba (buckwheat noodles) topped with local vegetables, sticky yam mochi (rice cakes) with miso sauce and Kawane’s famous tea. The hot springs in the village are famous for their restorative benefits and nicknamed “Bijin-no-Yu,” literally translated as “Beautiful People Hot Spring” as it moisturizes and beautifies skin.

Farm-to-Table Dining with Locals Although the region has jaw-dropping views, Kawane Honchou’s charm lies in its local residents. In 2011, Kawane Green Tourism was launched to support five minshuku (traditional bed and breakfasts) where visitors stay with locals and experience countryside farming.

A typical evening at a minshuku is spent harvesting vegetables from the farm outside the inn for your meal then learning The best way to get to Kawane from home-cooked favorites like tempura from your host. Friendly Tokyo is to take the Tokaido-Sanyo bullet train to Shizuoka Station. From there, take neighbors might stop by with leftover fruits from their orchard the local train to Kanaya Station then transor seasonal pickles. It may be helpful to have a translation fer to Shin-Kanaya. Although most travelers app at hand as most hosts only speak Japanese. would prefer to explore this area by riding Minshuku are comfortable but know that you will the retro trains or using the bus, rental cars be staying with residents, so there’s usually a noise are also available. curfew. Showers and baths are often shared among For more information on Shizuoka, visit several rooms and guests sleep on futons. The www.exploreshizuoka.com. inns are spread out among the region with several being located high up in the mountains, so hosts will pick up and drop off at Senzu Station.

To book your stay, visit www.shizuoka-guide.com/tsj/english/mountfujitravel. 

Getting There

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s you drive into PICA Fujiyama, the first thing you notice are a number of white domes scattered across the lawn. Each of these luxurious abodes, humbly called Amazing Domes, sleeps up to four guests comfortably. While these “glamping” tents are built of a heavy-duty white, waterproof material, some panels are clear, enabling guests to fall asleep gazing up at the stars.

Bathrooms, showers and sinks are located a few steps away in the main hall.

Traditionalists can head down the slope to the classic tent site. There’s space to park your car, pitch a tent (available for rental if you don’t have one) and enjoy a barbecue on the deck. Autumn is prime camping weather, but while the tent sites are closed from December to March, you can stay year round in one of the cottages.

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The two-story luxury cottage sleeps four and comes with two bedrooms, a kitchen, barbecue grill and a comfortable balcony. The family-friendly standard cottage sleeps six, while the cozy trailer cottage is compact and ideal for those wanting to spend the night before heading outdoors.

In the middle of it all is the Center House, a lobby and hall where you’ll find a restaurant, o u t d o o r b a r b e c u e s p a c e , s h owe r s a n d bathrooms. At night, the restaurant serves local beef, salmon and other regionally inspired dishes. A breakfast buffet is also served here.

Of course, you can bring your own meals but the campsite also delivers barbecue ingredients and utensils right to your doorstep (or tent site).

PICA Fujiyama opened in July 2018, so its facilities based at the foot of Mt. Fuji are brand new and perfect for families or people just getting into camping. You can show up empty handed as camping gear rentals and dining options are available on site.

PAID PUBLICITY ACTIVITIES You may have missed peak climbing season for Mt. Fuji, but you can still explore Japan’s iconic mountain–albeit from a side of Fuji that most people don’t visit. Only accessible with a licensed tour company, Fuji’s lava and ice caves are a must-see if you’re in the neighborhood.

The trek starts from the infamous Aokigahara Forest, a place with a history of suicides. However, this forest is far from paranormal and with a good tour guide, you can learn about the forest’s unusual landscape and mountain activity. Created by Mt. Fuji’s most recent major eruption in 864, the forest sits on porous lava creating plant life you won’t find on other nearby trails.

The lava cave tour is held year round.

Inside, you’ll find the cave floor and walls lined with layers of ice. During the Meiji Period, the local residents used this cave to store food and supplies. Artifacts remain in the caves today.

Once you’ve seen Mt. Fuji from below, get a bird’s eye view by paragliding at Asagiri. Just 45 minutes away by car, Sky Asagiri operates paragliding experiences (tandem and solo training). On clear winter days you’ll get an unobstructed view of Mt. Fuji.

Canoeing, kayaking or stand-up paddling a re g re a t ways to ex p l o re n e a r by L a ke Kawaguchi. Buses from Kawaguchiko Station run regularly to the region’s second largest lake. After a long day outdoors, enjoy the local delicacy houtou—udon noodles in a hot, hearty miso soup filled with vegetables and meat.

Yamanashi Prefecture is famous nationwide for producing some of Japan’s finest fruits.

Depending on the season, you can enjoy grape and blueberry picking, buy fresh fruit from roadside stalls and sample seasonal desserts.

GETTING THERE The best way to get around is by car, although taxis can be arranged. If you aren’t driving, take a direct bus from Tokyo (Shibuya, Shinjuku, Tokyo Station, Akihabara, Haneda Airport) or Yokohama to Kawaguchiko Station, the nearest station to PICA Fujiyama. From there, it’s a 15-minute drive by taxi to the campsite. A free shuttle bus also runs three times a day connecting Kawaguchiko Station to PICA Fujiyama, Fujiyama Onsen (hot spring area) next to Fuji-Q Highland amusement park and the other nearby PICA campsite at Fujiyoshida.

Aside from Fujiyama, PICA Resorts also operates campsites in Yamanashi, Shizuoka and Kanagawa prefectures as well as in Chichibu (Saitama). They also have a campsite on Hatsushima, an island off the coast of eastern Izu.  PICA Fujiyama 6662-10 Funatsu, Fujikawaguchiko-cho, Minamitsuru-gun, Yamanashi-ken 401-0301 www.pica-resort.jp/fujiyama

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By Joan B

5

Five AirBnB Experiences

to get you outside this Autumn

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here is no better time to head out to Japan’s great outdoors than autumn. Mountainsides turn from green to gold and red, and the days get shorter and cooler. We put together a list of five great AirBnB Experiences in and around Tokyo to inspire exploration and fun. Whether adventurous or curious, looking to slow down or fly along, there should be something here to fit the bill.

Canyoning in Okutama On the far western edge of Tokyo stands the Okutama Range. Home to countless temples and peaks strung together with hiking trails as old as the mountains themselves, Okutama is one of the best places to truly step outside the city. For those hoping to do something adventurous, Mike Harris offers canyoning. A mix of climbing, jumping, swimming and sliding, it’s a great way to get up close and personal with the mountains, waterways, and valleys of the range.

Canyoning, Harris says, is a perfect way to get out and enjoy the outdoors. “Spring is awesome for river rafting, but in summer the water drops, so the thrills are not quite enough for people wanting a real adventure,” he says. “Canyoning is the perfect solution for summer.”

Harris is also a firm believer in the power of nature to rejuvenate and sees it in the faces of his customers. “I love seeing their beaming smiles after finishing a tour,” he says.

Photos courte sy of Takashi Fukud

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Tokyo Waterway Night Paddling Takashi Fukuda thinks the advantages of exploring by water are some of the best and perhaps least appreciated. “People are not very interested in the river, but by changing their point of view, everyday scenery looks very different,” says Fukuda, an experienced paddler and guide. “The riverside is an ordinary cityscape, but in the evening, the color of the sky is reflected on the water, and a symmetrical townscape appears.”

Woven throughout the city, Tokyo’s waterways were once a main form of transportation and trade. Inspired by his own travels to places such as Taiwan, Costa Rica, Croatia, and Egypt, Fukuda offers his experiences in hopes of sharing this unique vantage point of his home. “Waterways are very peaceful, and it’s easy for beginners and kids,” says Fukuda, “so I hope that many people will experience it with me.”

Photos courtesy of Canyons Japan

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Learn the Art of Wasabi Cultivation Those seeking a quieter and tasty escape from the city will find a visit to David Hulme’s wasabi farm an excellent choice. An avid hiker in the Okutama area where his farm is located, Hulme gradually found himself part of the community and helping out with the local wasabi grower association. He moved here five years ago with his wife and started growing it not long after.

“The first use of wasabi was for pharmacology,” Hulme explains. “It’s antiseptic and bacterial qualities made it ideal for keeping food safe, which is one reason it’s paired with sushi.” This is just one of the many tidbits visitors to Hulme’s wasabida ( wasabi farm) learn before harvesting this odd member of the brassica family to enjoy for themselves. At a makeshift table under the branches of Japanese cypress and cedar, Hulme demonstrates how to clean and grind the fresh wasabi before eating it with paper-thin slices of beef.

“Once you’ve tasted this,” Hulme says, gesturing to the wasabi on his plate, “there’s no going back.”

Photos by Joan

Bailey

Meditate at a Temple, Hike, Do Yoga

Photos by Joan Bai

ley

In the foothills of the Tanzawa Range just south of Tokyo, Linda Gould offers guests an intimate look at a rural mountain area. A resident for more than 20 years, Gould adores her little town and is eager to share it.

She is also excited to share the joys of outdoor yoga. Gould, a yoga teacher for a little over a decade, brings both of these passions to life in this walk along the Mizunashigawa (No Water River) that takes in an archeological site and ancient burial tombs. “It’s such a quiet and sacred place,” says Gould before settling the group on their mats.

From there, Gould guides guests to a second park and finally to Taigakuin, a magnificent Buddhist temple designed by Tadao Ando. A perfect blend of modernity and tradition, guests get an overview of the temple grounds and history before meditating in the temple’s main hall. “No one expects this kind of thing in a small town,” says Gould, “but that’s why I love showing people around.”

Enoshima SUP (Stand Up Paddling) An hour’s ride south of Tokyo is the beginning of Japan’s beach community. One of the best ways to take it in, at least according to Steve Marriott and Dylan Patrick, is by paddleboard.

All ages and abilities are welcome as the two believe SUP has something for everyone. “People are sometimes really nervous, but then they realize how easy it is,” says Steve with a smile. “It’s like a stroll on the water.”

Formerly a professional racer, Steve has been surfing and paddling for more than ten years in the area. Participants get an overview of the day’s plan from Patrick and Marriott along with some land lessons if this is their first time. Then, with life vests, board and paddle in tow, they hit the water.

Once out, the views from the sea are stunning. Starting in September, things start getting especially spectacular as the air and water begin to clear. Winter, though, they say is the best. “The views of Mount Fuji are incredible,” says Patrick. Explore more at airbnb.com. 

Photos courtesy of

Steve Marriot t and

Dylan Patrick

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By Rie Miyoshi

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crisp fog clears, revealing islands “floating” in the clouds. Massive, dangerously narrow sandstone columns seemingly defy gravity as they rise up from the canyon floor—so high clouds and mist form between these giant pillars. It feels like a scene straight out of the 2009 Hollywood blockbuster “Avatar,” and, actually it is. The sets for the fantasy world were designed after Zhangjiajie National Forest Park.

With China’s flourishing economy and push towards tourism, the country has never been more accessible. Travelers are venturing beyond Beijing and Shanghai, going further inland to seek unspoiled countryside views and mountainous landscapes often depicted in traditional Chinese paintings.

If it’s your first time visiting China, the southern central province of Hunan is an excellent introduction to China’s outdoors. With craggy mountainous ranges, serpentine rivers and traditional villages, this is the ancient China many have imagined.

China has been known for ostentatious projects, so it’s no surprise the country boasts the world’s longest cable car, longest and highest glass-bottomed suspension bridge, highest glass-bottomed walkway and highest elevator— all of which you’ll find here in Hunan.

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Islands in the Sky With more than 3,000 sandstone pillars, ravines, caves and lakes, Wulingyuan Scenic Area is a geological treasure. It spans more than 26,000 hectares, so its impossible to cover it all in just one day. The region includes Suoxi Valley Nature Reserve, Tianzi Mountain Nature Reserve, Yangjiajie Scenic Area and the famous Zhangjiajie National Forest Park. The park was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1992, but really peaked interest after “Avatar” was released.

Today, millions flock to see the iconic Hallelujah Mountain. The viewing point can get crowded, but it is a must-see, especially with its adjacent natural rock bridge.

The Tianzi Mountain in the north is similar to Zhangjiajie except it is higher and the pillars narrower. Located at 1,182 meters, this is the best place to photograph the “islands” shrouded in mist and clouds.

To the northeast, the Suoxi Valley Nature Reserve features Baizhang Valley—popular with hikers—Yellow Dragon Cave and Baofeng Lake, a manmade reservoir built for irrigation.

Ya n g j i a j i e i s t h e n ewe s t a d d i t i o n t o Wulingyuan and has steeper climbs compared to the rest of the park. While the pillars here are not as eroded, the forest is denser. A narrow iron staircase connects you to One Step to Heaven, a 1,130-meter mountain peak.

There are more than 149 types of animals in this park; while you will definitely run into greedy monkeys along the trails, you might also find golden pheasants, giant salamanders and musk deer.

To attract more tourists, easy-access walkways, roads, cable cars—and even an elevator—have been built around the more popular structures so you can expect crowds during peak season. The ideal way to enjoy this park is to get a three-day pass, which allows you to hike quieter spots away from the tour buses. You can also homestay with the local Tujia ethnic group. Bus tickets typically cost around 225 yuen (¥3,700) but are half price at 115 yuen (¥1,900) during the off season from December to February. Note that driving is only allowed for locals living in the park. Free shuttle buses also run within the park.

If you’re not staying in the park, you may want to stay in the Wulingyuan District.

This quaint tourist town is a convenient place as restaurants, shops, hotels and even the Wulingyuan Scenic Area entrance is a ten to fifteen-minute walk.

Heaven's Gate As you fly into Zhangjiajie Hehua Airport, you’ll see jagged limestone peaks lining the horizon. The tallest of these is the 1,519-meter Tianmen Mountain. For easy, jaw-dropping views, this is the place as the only legal way up is by cable car. Yet this isn’t your average gondola: the seven-kilometer ride makes it the world’s longest cable car. Thirty minutes after stepping aboard you’re delivered to the peak where you can walk around, test your fear of heights on the glassbottomed walkway or take the escalator down to Heaven’s Gate Cave.

Heaven’s Gate Cave is the world’s highest cave of its kind. Visitors can climb 999 steps (in Taoist tradition, nine signifies the emperor and thereby the son of heaven) to reach this gaping hole on the side of the mountain. Erosion created the cave in 263 A.D. This natural phenomenon as well as its height has made it a popular spot for the World Wingsuit Championships, when extreme athletes fly through the cave.

During the warmer months (March to November), visitors can take a bus up the thrilling 99 Bends Road–not recommended for those prone to car sickness. With its hairpin turns and altitude, you may want to opt for a view of the 99 Bends from the cable car. The road ends at Heaven’s Gate Cave. Note both the cave and the road are closed during winter due to ice.

Keeping up with the glass-bottomed craze, Zhangjiajie Glass Bridge is also just an hour drive away. At 430 meters long and 300 meters high, the world’s longest and highest glass suspension bridge is built over Zhangjiajie Grand Canyon.

It’s unnerving to walk the plank with nothing but thick glass between you and the canyon far below. Bungy China recently launched the world’s highest commercial bungee jump from this bridge, with its inaugural jump held in spring 2018. Check them out at www.bungychina.com.

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Phoenix County A four to five-hour drive from central Zhangjiajie is Fenghuang Phoenix Ancient City.

Literally meaning “phoenix county,” Fenghuang has exceptionally well-preserved buildings dating back to the early 1700s. Home to the Miao and Tujia ethnic minorities, this traditional town is noted for diaojiaolou, houses built precariously on stilts along the Tuojiang River. Twenty ancient streets with more than 200 preserved residences include Huangsiqiao Castle, Xiangxi Border Walls, Chaoyang Palace and the former residence of Shen Chongwen, one of China’s greatest modern writers.

Activities in town include food stallhopping, shopping and a bustling nightlife scene.

Photographers are also drawn to the phoenixinspired architecture. Bridges and stepping stones connect Tuojiang River and you’ll often find Chinese visitors getting their engagement shoots done here. You can also take a short tenminute river boat cruise to view the stilt houses from the river and local fishermen.

Getting There There are at least four flights a day from Shanghai Airport to Zhangjiajie Airport and one flight from Beijing. There are also plans for Zhangjiajie to be a stop on the high-speed train line. Another option is to fly into Changsha Airport. Changsha is Hunan’s capital and a major business hub. Zhangjiajie and Fenghuang are a five-hour drive from Changsha (in different directions). China does not allow foreign nonresidents to rent cars or drive. However, taxis and buses are readily available in Zhangjiajie.

Okichina Travel Service offers small affordable tours to the Zhangjiajie Region as well as longer trips to Beijing and Shanghai. For more information visit www.okichinatour.com. 

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Trekking the Panorama

Ginza Trail

By Rie Miyoshi

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he Northern Japan Alps have been a source of inspiration for centuries, from missionaries and foreign traders looking up at the mighty peaks, to hikers and rock climbers searching for adventure. While the Alps are technically open year round, the most temperate months for enjoying the alpine terrain are July through October. From winter through early summer, the peaks are covered with snow and treacherous ice and only recommended for advanced hikers with the proper gear and experience.

The trails in the Northern Alps range from intermediate to advanced. Hikers are exposed to the elements on the ridges and the mountain weather can change drastically in a matter of minutes. Having said this, the Panorama Ginza is a recommended course for hikers looking for a stunning introduction to multi-day trekking in Japan.

As its name suggests, this trail offers panoramic vistas of the Jonen mountain range and includes four major peaks, two of which are included in the “Hyaku-meizan” series, Japan’s 100 famous mountains. The trek can be done in four days with five to seven hours of walking per day between the mountain huts. Perhaps most enjoyable is the variety of terrain and wildlife that changes each day as you follow the trail.

During the short kouyou period between the last

week of September to the beginning of October, the mountains turn into a patchwork of brilliant red, yellow and orange making for excellent landscape photography.

The key to hiking the Panorama Ginza is endurance and preparedness. Although the trail is well maintained, some people may find trekking for four days along undulating rocky terrain challenging. Be sure to bring proper rain wear and gear—getting caught on the trail when the weather takes a turn for the worst is no fun.

Start from Nakabusa Onsen trailhead (1,455 meters) which is a 40-minute drive from Hotaka Station. From there, you’ll be following the Kassen Ridge to Mt. Tsubakuro (2,763 meters).

The jolting contrast of green foliage dotted with alpine flowers and white granite sand makes this spot look like a fantasy film setting. Jagged

boulders sticking out of the trail are eroded into strange shapes including the famous “Dolphin Rock.” On clear days you can see the iconic pointed peak of Mt. Yari, Japan’s “Matterhorn.”

Just a 20-minute hike away is Enzanso Mountain Hut owned by the ebullient Kenji Akanuma. A third-generation owner, Akanuma is a landscape and wildlife photographer and holds informational sessions every evening (when he’s at the hut) to educate guests on mountain etiquette, practices and environmental issues.

He was also one of the people responsible for pushing for the national holiday of “Yama no Hi” (Mountain Day) to be celebrated August 11 instead of in June.

“If this national holiday had been in June and families with kids or inexperienced hikers were challenging themselves to climb the Alps

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Hiking in Japan can be convenient because unlike most other mountain huts, yamagoya are built on peaks—or close to the peaks—so hikers without tents can avoid wasting time ascending and descending mid-hike to reach huts built on lower elevations. Japan’s huts prepare dinner, breakfast and packed lunch upon request and many have heated rooms, free drinking water and purchasable snacks and drinks.

But the comfort ends there—after all, we’re talking about several mountain huts built on high elevations, where food and resources have to be helicoptered up. During peak climbing season and weekends, these huts get crowded especially since walk-ins are allowed. Rules change between huts but you should expect the following: 1. You’ll be sleeping on futons in shared tatami mat rooms, and on crowded days don’t be surprised to find yourself sandwiched between other hikers.

2. Mountain huts enforce a strict curfew. Usually lights are out by 9 p.m. and breakfast is served anytime between 5 to 6 a.m. Most hikers are usually out the door by 6:30 a.m. and check out is 8:30 a.m. at the latest.

3. There are no showers, so bring body wipes.

4. Some huts allow flushable toilet paper but most of the time, you’ll have to put your used toilet paper in the stall’s wastepaper basket.

5. Most huts don’t allow toothpaste use as that may damage mountain soil.

6. Bring back your own trash.

7. Walk-ins are allowed, but you can also reserve via phone or email depending on the hut.

Note that most hut owners and staff do not speak English.

8. Hut prices can range anywhere from ¥7,000 to ¥10,000 for one night and two meals.

when there’s still snow, it would have been extremely dangerous,” explains Akanuma. “So we all petitioned for Yama no Hi to be pushed to August during peak climbing season.”

After a good night’s sleep at the hut, depart for Mt. Otensho (2,922 meters), which is a threehour hike from Enzanso. This portion is relatively flat but there’s a short rocky passage midway that beginner rock climbers may want to try. If you time it right, you can reach Daitenso Mountain Hut by lunchtime before continuing another three hours down to Jonengoya Mountain Hut. Keep an eye out for the raichō, literally meaning “thunder bird.” As the official bird of Nagano, this rock ptarmigan is protected nationwide. The rock ptarmigan is identified by its mottled blackand-white feathers but dons an almost complete white gown in the winter.

Jonengoya is located at the base of Mt.

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Joya (2,857 meters). The next leg of this trip involves steep up and downhill scrambling over slippery boulders but possibly holds the most breathtaking view of the entire trek. This ridge sits between Kamikochi and the iconic Hotakadake Ridge and the city of Azumino. The mountains here are formed by glaciers similar to national parks on the U.S. West Coast; the landscape takes on a Pacific Northwest feel. Along the way you’ll see Byobu Iwa, the “El Capitan” of Japan where local rock climbers scale its 300-meter granite wall. You’ll climb three steep hills before arriving at the relatively level Mt. Chogatake (2,677 meters) and Chogatake Hutte. It’s advised to spend the night here before descending to the famous Kamikochi visitor area (a five-hour descent). Treat yourself to well-earned ice cream or a hot drink at the stylish Tokusawa-en Lodge, which is halfway on the route back.

PAID PUBLICITY

Enzansou Mountain Hut

Daitenso Mountain Hut

Jonengoya Mountain Hut

Chogatake Hutte Mountain Hut

Open: Late April – Late November, Dec. 31 and Jan. 1 www.enzanso.co.jp

Open: Late June – Mid-October www.enzanso.co.jp/daitenso

Open: Late April – Early November www.mt-jonen.com

Open: Late April – Late November www.inett.or.jp/mt-chou

If you’re coming by train from Tokyo, take the JR Chuo Line Limited Express direct to Hotaka Station in Azumino City. If you have a few days to spare, explore Azumino, which has several art museums, hot springs for day trippers and also Daio Wasabi Farm that produces some of the nation’s finest wasabi due to clean mountain meltwater. For more information, visit www.azumino-e-tabi.net/en.

A l te r n a t i ve l y, yo u c a n s t a r t t h e h i ke from the opposite direction from Kamikochi, although it will be more crowded as it is also a gateway to Mt. Hotaka and popular campsites.

To reach Kamikochi, you can take a direct bus from Matsumoto City. Buses do not run during snow season. 

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By Rie Miyoshi

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n the far north of Honshu, Japan’s main island, is a region of quiet beauty and traditions that remains relatively unexplored by the crowds of tourists. Those who make the effort to get there (with high speed rails and a regional airport it isn’t that difficult) are rewarded with some of the delicious seafood and rice in the country. It’s also home to some of Japan’s most colorful festivals and the locals are eager to share their region’s fares.

One of Tohoku’s six prefectures is Yamagata, located just north of Niigata Prefecture along the coast. It's a hidden gem for travelers in search of authentic cultural experiences and outdoor activities. There are ancient temples, sacred trails and exciting festivals in the mountains and coastal areas of this diverse prefecture.

The Shonai Region (known as the “Shonai Heiya”) spreads west from the sacred Dewa S anzan—a triumvirate of mountains that include Mt. Gassan, Mt. Haguro and Mt. Yudono.

Yamabushido, a religious asceticism by mountain priests, is still practiced here today. Fertile rice fields stretch from the foot of these mountains to the Japan Sea where coastal towns such as Tsuruoka and Sakata have long been stops for traders and fisherman.

Sakata was a prosperous port on a trade route from Kansai called Kitamaebune dating back more than 300 years. As a flourishing

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business and entertainment center, Sakata produced and sold colorful traditional fabric, sweets and sake . Along with the goods from down south in Kansai, influence and culture also arrived in the form of maiko from Kyoto, apprentice geisha training to perform traditional songs, dances and the shamisen instrument.

You can see them perform at 2 p.m. (except Wednesdays) at Somaro Maiko Teahouse, a historical building which once served high-end customers. With its vibrant red lacquered walls, inner courtyard and elegant woodwork, this 17th-century teahouse is worth a visit as it has been transformed into a gallery.

As central Sakata is fairly compact, it’s easy to get around on the free city bikes that are available to pick up and drop off at Sakata Station and ten other points around town. The city offers other attractions to ride to, including the nostalgic Shonai Museum of History of Rice housed in the old rice warehouses of Sankyo Soko, Sakata Fish Market and numerous ramen shops for which the region is famous for.

Further inland, the famous juhyo (snow monsters) at Zao Ski Resort have put Yamagata on the map with winter sports enthusiasts.

However, before the snow falls there are a number of interesting activities to enjoy in the lowlands and along the sea.

Yamagata’s Diver’s Paradise Tobishima is a 75-minute ferry ride from Sakata Port. The island features crystal clear waters and is popular for fishing, diving and snorkeling. From April to June, even inexperienced divers can swim with banded houndsharks. The gentle 1.5-meter-long sharks gather around caves or rest on the sea floor during the season. Diving is only permitted with a licensed diving company.

Spanning only 2.75 square kilometers, Tobishima is fairly flat—its highest peak is the 68-meter-high Mt. Takamori. While there’s plenty of marine life, Tobishima is also visited by birdwatchers as nearly 270 species of migratory birds nest here. Camping is not permitted but there are several cafés, restaurants and comfortable guesthouses.

Although Tobishima is accessible year round, the ferry is sometimes canceled due to strong winds or waves. Even if your ferry is cancelled, you can still enjoy the beach by driving south to Tsuruoka. Yunohama Beach is one of Japan’s oldest surf spots and is also a popular place for swimming and marine sports. Further south at Nezugaseki is an iconic lighthouse. From here, you can kayak while watching the sunset over the Sea of Japan.

Chasing Waterfalls With more than 230 waterfalls, Yamagata has the most of any prefecture in Japan. Shonai’s most picturesque waterfall, Tamasudare Falls, is 63 meters high and located at the base of Mt. Chokai. The waterfall’s volcanic rock cliff face was thought to be formed when the region still lay beneath the ocean. You can see a large vertical fissure, especially when there is low water flow.

Although it takes 40 minutes by car from Sakata, it is a short walk from the parking lot to the waterfall. Mitake Shrine is a few steps in front of the waterfall, which is beautiful year round, but especially stunning when it completely freezes in winter (snow shoes are recommended). During peak holiday seasons, the waterfall is illuminated at night.

Sea to Summit The close proximity of Mt. Chokai to the coast has made Mt. Chokai Quasi-National Park home to one of the popular Sea to Summit race courses. Hosted by Montbell, Japan’s largest outdoor brand, Sea to Summit is a kayak, cycling and hiking endurance race held at great locations throughout Japan during the green season.

The Mt. Chokai Sea to Summit race is held annually at the end of August. Participants start at Nishihama Beach and kayak four kilometers before cycling to Hokodate parking lot (21 kilometers) and climbing the 2,160-meter-high Mt. Chokai (seven kilometers).

The sacred Dewa Sanzan mountains, which are the spiritual centers of shugendo—Japanese mountain ascetism that combines Buddhist and Shinto traditions. Secrecy and mysticism shroud these holy mountains and if you are lucky you may see pilgrims and mountain priests clad in white robes trekking the trails as part of their rigorous training. Visitors can view shrines and temples here but photography—especially at the Hongu area of Mt. Yudono— is strictly prohibited.

Other summer races include the Minato Sakata Triathlon Oshin Race in June (www. osin-triathlon.com), the Chokaisan Blue Line Hill Climb (www.nikaho-kanko.jp/hill-clim/) and the Nordic Walk (www.nordic-walk.or.jp) in July and the Gassan Ryujin Marathon in October (gassan-m.com).

Getting There Oishii Shonai Airport is only an hour from Haneda Airport and has four flights a day. You can also reach Shonai by taking the Joetsu Shinkansen (bullet train) to Niigata. From Niigata take the Inaho Express train which takes the scenic route along the Sea of Japan coast. You can also take an overnight bus from Tokyo and Osaka area. It takes about 6.5 hours from Tokyo and 10.5 hours from Osaka. For more information or to book your trip, visit www.en.shoko-travel. jp or Shonai Visitors Association at yamagatashonai.com. 

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