F
rom his wood-paneled office at State Line Liquors Street in Elkton to its much larger current location along Elkton in Elkton, Md., Robert Murray talks about America’s Road. new obsession with craft beers, the shifting in Robert, along with siblings John Murray, Marcella Lockwood, industry standards, and the astronomical rise of and Joanie Mackenzie, as well as longtime employee Rick Ostrand, quality choices in the marketplace. He traces the purchased the store in 1995. growth of microbrews to Samuel Adams, back in the The siblings virtually grew up in the store; Robert worked there ‘90s. “It was like a gateway beer for a lot of people,” Murray says throughout his high school years at Salesianum School, and during with a laugh. breaks from college. “It’s crazy how Joanie would get dropped popular craft beer has off immediately in front gotten. Every pale ale of the store by the Padua from every brewery Academy school bus so tastes different. And she could spend a few that’s what’s so cool hours after school tidying about it.” up and sweeping out the And that helps front entrance. explain why the Murray Today, Robert is State family’s venerable Line’s beer guru. John liquor store is more Murray and Ostrand— popular than ever. who has worked there State Line Liquors, more than 30 years—are located just past the the resident wine experts. Maryland border where Joanie and Marcella Venerable State Line Liquors continues to keep Newark and Elkton handle accounting, pace with consumer tastes by stocking abut, has grown with reception and many other the industry since its duties. a staggering 2,500 varieties of craft days as Murray’s Liquor “It has its advantages and Groceries during and disadvantages,” and imported beer the post-Prohibition Robert says of working 1930s. As consumer so closely with family tastes have shifted— members. “We’re a ‘say By Matt Amis photos by Tim Hawk from liquor to wine to what you’re thinking’ kind craft beer—so has State of family, which can ruffle Line. The store today feathers sometimes.” offers a staggering 2,500 But the straightvarieties of craft and shooting philosophy imported beer, regular is something of an tasting groups, and advantage for customers. friendly expertise by Honest appraisals and the keg-full. Thanks in recommendations from part to Murray’s own the floor staff are a passion for suds, State huge part of State Line’s Line has become an reputation and popularity. East Coast Shangri La “You can go into any for beer fanatics. store and buy a bottle of “I like the fact that wine,” Robert says. “We the customer is treated go to seminars. We go like a friend here,” says to tastings, tastings and customer Mike Reckner more tastings. Customers of Newark. “And I like to know they can come discover a new favorite in and get our honest drink while I’m at it.” opinion.” Ostrand and It’s connections John Murray travel to like this that have helped State Line build a loyal and passionate Napa Valley, the Pacific Northwest and the French countryside following, starting with the days when founders and siblings to hone their oenophile chops. Walter and May Murray shared storefront space with a butcher State Line is also deeply entwined in Newark and University of shop. Walter and May navigated the business through the Great Delaware lore. Until 2003, Delaware was among several states that Depression by selling groceries and candy in addition to liquor. In enforced Blue Laws banning the sale of alcohol on Sundays. State 1963, a second generation of Murrays—Roberts' parents, Jack and Line, with its proximity to UD’s campus and massive selection Ethel—took over, and eventually moved the business from Bridge of beer, was a veritable life-saving outpost for students craving a
PRETTY CRAFTY
16 . Up Close
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July 2012 | O&A
6/22/2012 2:03:11 PM