OurOzarks
Anniversary Issue
This Issue Through the Lens: The Beauty of Raptors History of Mining in the Ozarks Following the Footsteps of Henry Rowe Schoolcraft
Display until March 31
Regular Features
OurOzarks .com
‘Tiques & Fleas Saddle Up! Hiking Our Ozarks Tracking the History of Mills & Springs
The Ozark Mountain region is made up of the St. Francois Mountains, Salem Plateau, Springfield Plateau & Boston Mountains. A gradient area of the Ozarks drifts across the Mississippi River into SW Illinois, and is captured within the Shawnee Hills.
Our Ozarks Magazine
Find Your Way...Find Yourself
Vol 2, Issue 1 February 2017 Anniversary Issue
Editor/Publisher Jeffrey Haskins Staff Photography Jeffrey Haskins Carolyn Thornton
Mission Statement The mission of Our Ozarks is to help preserve the history, culture, beauty and all that is the Ozarks. Our Ozarks Magazine is published bi-monthly. Any correspondence can be directed to the editor at: Our Ozarks 266 Red Cedar Ozark, MO 65721 or email us at OurOzarks@yahoo.com Phone: (417) 209-4872 Find More Great Photos and Information on our website at OurOzarks.com!
Get a One-Year Subscription to Our Ozarks Magazine for $19.95 That’s six issues of our bi-monthly magazine Or get a Two-Year Subscription for $28.95 You can order online at OurOzarksMagazine.com and pay via credit card, including Apple Pay, or pay using Paypal. If you wish to pay via check or money order, send payment to: Our Ozarks PO Box 268 Ozark, MO 65721 Include: Your Name Your Mailing Address Your Email Your Phone Number
Cover photo by Steve Eichelberger. See more of his photos in the Through the Lens section.
Scan the QR Code with your smart phone or tablet to visit
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In This Issue Saddle Up Page 1-4 Hiking The Ozarks, Missouri’s New State Parks Page 5-6, 29-32 Millin’ Around...tracking the history of our mills & Springs
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‘Tiques & Fleas Page 10-13 Through the Lens Page 14-18 Schoolcraft’s Journey Through The Ozarks Page 19-21 Mining History of the Ozarks Page 22-28 Contributing Writers this Issue: Victoria Ree Contributing Photographers: Steve Eichelberger Mike Martin Dixie Black Mike Kircher Patty Wheatly-Bishop Maps: James Harlan Ozark Trail Association Artwork: the late James BurkhartTum nons at. Deceperis, fachicessi prit L. Ibus.
Saddle Up! Riding The Ozarks’ Trails
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The Ozarks have a rich equine history. Whether it be the Missouri’s state animal, the mule, or the Missouri Foxtrotters of the region, or other breeds. The United States leads the world in horse population with between nine and ten million equines. Missouri’s horse numbers consistently rank in the top ten amongst the states with an average of a quarter million beasts of burden. Arkansas is farther down the chart with around 60 percent of Missouri’s count. Equines (from the Latin of Equus, the genus of the species), includes horses, donkeys, and even zebras. It also includes the hybrid crossbreeds like the mule (a cross between a male donkey and a female horse), the hinny (a cross between a male horse and a female donkey, the zorse (a cross between a zebra and horse), and the zonkey (a cross between a zebra and a donkey). The mule was named Missouri’s state animal due to its historical importance. As the wagons of settlers began to roll into the Ozarks, and Missouri became a launching site for points west, the state became the leading producer of mules that would pull the westward wagon trains. Missouri was also a major supplier of mules during the Civil War. This was also true during WWI, as mules played a vital role in troop and supply movements. The Missouri company, Guyton and Harrington, supplied nearly 350,000 mules to the war effort. President Harry S. Truman included a mule team as part of his inaugural parade in 1948. His father had been a farmer and mule trader. In 2002, the Missouri Fox Trotter became the state horse. The breed had been developed within the hills and
hollows of the Ozarks’ regions in Missouri and Arkansas during the 1800s. Its steady gait was perfect for negotiating the rugged hills. In 1948, the Missouri Fox Trotting Horse Breed Association (MFTHBA) was founded in Ava, Missouri. The association sponsors numerous trail rides, shows and events throughout the year. Before the dust had even settled during the early settlement of the Ozarks, there were sure to be a horse race or two between young lads or their fathers, and given the hardy nature of the Scotch-Irish bloodlines that were prevalent, the ladies were likely involved as well. It has been said that it was a disagreement over the results of a horse race that led to the infamous Aslup-Fleetwood feud of Douglas County, Missouri (others claim it was a fight over the affections of a young lady). Rodeos, horse shows and even race tracks were a norm around Ozarks’ communities. Racing horses was a major attraction in St. Louis during the early days of Missouri’s settlement. As modern laws began to regulate the gambling surrounding the racing community, larger tracks like those at Kansas City’s Woodlands and Oaklawn in Hot Springs, Arkansas were developed. Woodland closed in 2008, but efforts are being considered for its reopening. Horseback and mule riding is a popular pastime in the Ozarks, and many public and private trails are available in the region. Join us as we begin to explore those trails in this and coming issues of Our Ozarks! Saddle Up!
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Adventures on the Ozark Trail (Eleven Point Section) Lazy C Campground, Winona, MO by Victoria Ree
Directons & GPS Location
The Ozark mountain region of Missouri holds some of the most spectacular scenery in the state. The Ozark Trail covers a large part of south central Missouri and has 300+ miles of varied terrain that can accommodate all types of equestrians. The Eleven Point Section travels along the Eleven Point National Scenic River that was established in 1968 along 44 miles of its banks.
From Winona, take Highway 19 South for 12 miles turning at Lazy C Trailhead sign. From Alton, take Highway 19 North for 11 miles turning at the Lazy C Trailhead sign.
A four-day Thanksgiving trail riding trip took me to the Lazy C Campground 12 miles south of Winona, MO and 3 miles NW of the Eleven Point National Scenic River. The Lazy C is a primitive campground that has a vault toilet and an artesian well. There are four sites with high lines and horse pens that are large enough for two horses, and two sites with high lines only. The campground is secluded, yet very easy to access with a truck that has a horse trailer in tow. There is a large circle drive with easy flat access to each campsite.
Difficulty Level
Each site is equipped with a picnic table and a large campfire ring with a swing-out cooking grate. There is also a very nice group campfire ring with benches in case you would like to camp with a large group. There is an artesian well, however there was no rope or bucket present and the water was a bit too murky looking for my preference. If one were to choose to use the well, a rope and bucket would be a necessity and if not, on board water would be required for your time in camp. Water was readily available on the trail while riding. The trail head is accessed directly from camp and joins the Ozark Trail approximately 3 miles from the trail head. It is consistently marked with the green-on-white OT trail markers and also gray diamond trail markers.
GPS: 36.83275278, -91.33258084
Experienced Rider Various steep slopes Camping Primitive, 6 sites with fire rings & picnic tables Some High Lines & Pens
Victoria Ree is an avid rider and calls Londell, Missouri home. She has been riding since she was 4-years old. Her favorite ridings spots are out in the truly wild areas of the Ozarks.
On the way to the Ozark Trail, you can take the McCor-
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mack Lake spur for a short side ride to the lake where there are picnic tables, barbecue grills and a bathroom.
Point National Scenic River, the river almost doubles in size.
The Eleven Point section of the Ozark Trail rises from the Eleven Point River to 975 vertical feet above sea level. To the west, you traverse the Mark Twain National Forest toward the Devils Backbone Wilderness, riding curving switchbacks through hardwood forests that take you ever higher, until you reach the summit where the view above the river is breathtaking.
The riding is steep and rocky, and due to the remote nature of the wilderness it may include some brush–popping navigation. Downed trees were encountered and required some steep navigation to access the trail on the other side.
To the east, the Ozark Trail travels above the river along a ridge top with a beautiful overlook that has a picnic table and is a wonderful spot for a break. The trail then winds down toward the river as it heads toward Greer Spring. At the confluence of the Greer Spring branch and the Eleven
The campground was quiet with no light pollution making the Milky Way a sight to see. I heard coyote and geese at night, and out on the trail saw white tail deer and squirrels. The Eleven Point Section of the Ozark Trail did not fail to deliver some of the best riding in 2016. Saddle Up!
The Ozark Trail is managed by volunteers known as the Ozark Trail Association. You may download their maps at the Ozark Trail website: http://www.ozarktrail.com/ Other nearby scenic sites include Greer Spring and Greer Mill, as well as Falling Spring Mill, and Turner’s Spring. Highway 19 provides beautiful fall and spring driving. Canoe & Kayak rental services available at other locations for floating the Eleven Point River. Nearby towns of Alton and Winona provide restaurants, stores and lodging. Feed mill located in Alton. Eleven Point Equine Clinic is located NW of Alton in Thomasville, MO (Take Hwy 19 south to Alton and then west on Hwy 160 and then north on Hwy 99 to Thomasville).
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Hiking Our Ozarks
Four new state parks for Missouri
Trivia Question: How do you tie The Beatles, Harold Bell Wright, stunt men and the Ozarks together? You visit some of the newest state parks in Missouri. Still stumped? Once upon a time The Beatles stayed in the Ozarks at Pigman Ranch along the Eleven Point River in Oregon County, Missouri. Harold Bell Wright, who wrote quite the famous Ozarks’ story called Shepherd of The Hills, as well as other stories centered on the area near Inspiration Point in Branson, Missouri. Four new state parks will open to the public sometime in 2017 and Pigman Ranch became part of one of those. Pigman will now be part of the Eleven Point River State Park, and lands along Roark Creek where Harold Bell Wright spent time exploring have become Ozark Mountain State Park. Bryant Creek State Park has also been added and is situated on the Douglas County/Ozark County line near Rockbridge Mill. Jay Nixon State Park is located along the Ozark Trail near the Reynolds/Iron County line. Bill Bryan, Director of Missouri State Parks, notes that
the parks could be open as early as the spring of 2017, although visitors will be left to their own devices as to hiking through the lands as official trails have not been laid out. Signs are currently being placed at each park, and public input is being received as to features and uses for the parks. Once open, your visit to Eleven Point River State Park will let you follow in the footsteps of Paul McCartney, John Lennon, Ringo Starr and George Harrison. The house they slept in is still standing, and until recently, served as a spiritual retreat. Thanks to the additional purchase of nearby land, a total of 4162 acres, 17 ponds and 6 miles of river frontage will provide excellent hiking, fishing, and floating opportunities. The park is situated along the last few miles of the Eleven Point National Scenic Riverway. Established in 1968, those 44 miles of the Eleven Point were part of the 8 initial waterways of the National Wild and Scenic River system. At last count, the National System protects 12,709 miles of 208 rivers in 40 states and Puerto Rico. The Act was created to preserve certain rivers with outstanding natural, cultural,
Bill Bryan, Director of Missouri State Parks, talks a large crowd who participated in a guided hike of Bryant Creek State Park in January 2017. Ken McCarty (standing below) is Natural Resources Management Section Chief at Missouri State Parks and also joined in guiding hikers.
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and recreational values in a free-flowing condition for the enjoyment of present and future generations. With more than 75,000 large dams across the country, over 600,000 miles of the United States Rivers have been modified (that’s 17 percent of the waterways). The goal of the Act is to keep those numbers down. The Act will celebrate its 50th anniversary next year and events are being planned for the celebration. The Ozark Mountain State Park in Branson, Missouri is slated to provide more of a day use atmosphere than what Continued on Page 29
(Above) The Beatles during their stay at Pigman Ranch (photo by Curt Gunther during the Beatles ‘64 tour in U.S.) (Left) Six miles of the Eleven Point River flows along the Eleven Point River State Park. (Below) The Pigman Ranch house served host to the Beatles during a relaxing stay during their Beatles ‘64 tour of America. Photo by Mike Kircher.
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Greer Spring and Mill
in Oregon County, Missouri
GREER SPRING & MILL are located between Alton and Winona, Missouri off MO-Highway 19. The Mill sits atop the hill on Hwy 19, and the spring area is accessed just south of the mill via hiking trail on west side of Hwy 19. Greer Spring is the second largest spring in the Ozarks with water flow of 222 million gallons per day and more than doubles the size of the Eleven Point National Scenic River to which it flows. The land was first settled by a Thomas Simpson in 1854, but was acquired by Samuel Greer on August 1, 1860. Samuel Greer, and his father John, soon built a small mill at Greer Spring. The enterprise was interrupted by the Civil War, as were other mill locations in the Ozarks. Samuel took up arms within the Confederate ranks and rose to the position of lieutenant. After fighting in several campaigns, Samuel returned from the war effort and found that bushwhackers had burned the mill. In 1867, his father died and it would be 1870 before Samuel began construction on a new mill. The new mill was powered by a waterwheel and set up to grind corn, saw lumber and run a cotton gin. The trip up the steep hills was hard, and the old mill was
Millin’ Around...
tracking the history of our mills & Springs
not meeting demand, so in 1883, Greer teamed up with George Mainprize of Thayer, Missouri to begin construction on a new roller mill at the top of the hill. Mainprize owned other milling operations in Howell County and moved modern rollers to the Greer site. The plans entailed the use of a sophisticated system of cables and belts to transfer the power of the spring below and up the hill to the new mill. Tragedy struck during construction when Samuel’s son, 23year old Lewis Greer, was hit by a timber during the work in 1884. The young man died from his injuries, but construction resumed a month later, even as Samuel continued to grieve. Greer remained involved in daily operations at the mill until 1891. Mainprize continued operations and bought out Greer’s share in the mill in 1899. While Mainprize maintained ownership of the mill for a time, the land and spring were sold to Louis Houck in 1904.
Greer Spring is the second largest spring in the Ozarks and averages a daily flow of 222 million gallons of water!
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Houck led the Cape Girardeau and Springfield Railroad Company. Although Houck attempted to change the name of the spring to Big Ozark, it never stuck. Eventually, other owners of the mill would come and go before the mill ceased operations in 1920. The beauty of Greer Spring was threatened at one point when the ownership of the spring passed from Houck to the Missouri Iron and Steel Corporation. At its earliest visits by the Spanish, French and other prospectors, silver and gold were sought in the Ozarks. Later, iron and lead deposits were prized, those interests spurred by the Civil War and later World War I. One such enterprise was a large charcoal smelter being developed at Haigart, Missouri in Howell County (near Brandsville) owned by Missouri Iron and Steel Corporation. Nearby Greer Spring caught the attention of the executives. At first, the company looked to develop a resort for the iron magnates, using the Greer homestead as the club house. But the power of the spring created a new vision of a large dam and hydroelectric supply. Iron ore development dwindled in the area, and the close of World War I lowered demand, so for that and possibly other reasons, Haigart and the Greer Spring plans drifted into history. The Louis Denning family took ownership of the land about the spring and mill in 1922 and held the land until the 1980s. By this time, the dam had washed away and the structures of the cable systems rusted all but away. The old mill above was weathered and worn. In 1987, the Anheuzer-Busch company offered to buy the property. Their sights were apparently set on bottling the waters of the spring. This was not looked upon well by conservationists, and environmentally minded Leo Drey of St.
Louis decided to save the 7000 acres by purchasing it himself. Drey, whose family are known for the Drey canning jars, had amassed his own wealth by becoming one of the largest landholders in Missouri through his timber trade. After his purchase, Drey held the land for eventual sale to the U.S. Forest Service, and sold it to them at a discount of $500,000 less than what he had paid. Anheuser-Busch matched the monetary discount as a donation, apparently to rekindle goodwill after the public outcry over their attempted purchase and use of the spring. The Denning family continued to hold an easement to some of the lands, including cabins down near the river and the mill itself. That easement was set up to release in 2013. By this time, the mill was showing its age. The Friends of the Eleven Point River was established as a non-profit association in 2013 to seek restoration of Greer Mill and management of the land in cooperation with the United States Department of Agriculture Forest Service. According to Brian Sloss, president of the non-profit, restoration is ahead of schedule and under budget. He points to volunteer efforts and a $5,000 per year grant since 2013 from the L-A-D Foundation as a key to keeping the budget in line. L-A-D an acronym for founder Leo A. Drey, was established in 1962 by Leo and his wife Kay. His purchase of Greer Spring had been instrumental in saving it from commercial investors, but his donation of other lands to the L-A-D Foundation had helped preserve other natural areas of the Ozarks. Some of those other lands, now under state management are Grand Gulf State Park, Dillard Mill State Historic Site and Dripping Springs Natural Area To date, the foundation and supportive structures of the Continued on Page 9
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Greer Spring
Continued from Page 8
mill have been repaired and/or replaced, a new roof installed and replacement of damaged portions of the siding of the building have been made. A front porch deck has been installed and new windows were constructed by an Amish group to match the original design. New flooring was provided at a very reduced price by Roberts Hardwood Flooring of Mountain View, Missouri. Sloss notes that remaining work to be done includes new siding for the entire outside of the mill. He states funds are already in the coffers for Amish contractors to do that work, and that the Forest Service is providing the siding through purchase. He expects that work to be completed in
2017. Interpretative signs for mill visitors will be installed, as well as a gravel parking area. Sloss expects all to be complete by sometime in 2018. Much thanks have to go out to board members of the Friends of the Eleven Point River during this work: Brian Sloss, President Ed Clausen, Vice President Clara Williams, Treasurer JoBeth Prewitt-Anderson, Secretary Barb Simpson, Member Debra Sallings, Member Jamie Gandel, Member Thanks also goes out to William MacNeill of the Forest Service, as well as the multitude of volunteers who helped in the work on the mill and in running canoe/kayak races as fundraising efforts. Local donors of items for fundraising have to be thanked as well, including Bass Pro, and many private individuals. To make a donation or to learn more about the Greer Spring Mill restoration, visit their website at: www.friendsoftheelevenpointriver.org Find more information and maps on Mills & Springs of the Ozarks at our website: http://www.ourozarks.com Look for more mill and spring histories in future issues of Our Ozarks Magazine. We will strive to keep readers updated on events and restoration efforts at mill and spring sites throughout the Ozarks. If you have information on an old mill site, or one of the beautiful springs of the region, contact us at Ourozarks@yahoo.com and note in subject line: Mills & Springs
(Above Left) Greer Mill prior to restoration efforts was seeing the effects of age. (Below Left) Greer Mill begins to take on new life after a new roof, foundation repairs and internal support beams are repaired. A new front porch and new windows give it a much needed facelift. The siding is slated to be replaced as early as this year. Photo courtesy of U.S. Forest Service
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‘Tiques & Fleas
Our Guide to Antiques, Boutiques and Flea Markets in the Ozarks
Many old towns have found revitalization through the addition of antique shops and boutiques along their historic business districts. As trails such as the Katy Trail on the northern edge of the Ozarks has found, hikers and bike riders have flocked to those areas and find great enjoyment in also visiting those revitalization efforts. Coffee shops, wineries and microbreweries are filled with the traffic of those travelers. In our next issue of Our Ozarks Magazine, we will visit some of those areas that seek to bring in visitors to their shops! All part of the 3 Rs at ‘Tiques & Fleas (Recycle, Restore, and Revitalize!
Scan the QR code above with your smart phone or tablet to go directly to the OurOzarks.com site for a full listing of Antiques, Botiques & Flea Markets to find your way around shopping, dining and more!
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COOKIE'S ANTIQUE WORLD 8180 Hwy 160 South. Highlandville, Missouri (417) 443-5000 Hours Mon-Fri: 9AM - 5:30PM Sat: 9AM - 6:00PM Sun: 10AM - 5:30PM Open 362 Days A Year! 8000 Square feet of Antiques & Collectibles with over 80 booths! A traditional Highway 160 stop for antique shoppers since 1999!
Over the years it has been our pleasure to serve our customers locally and those who visit from states near and far. It is our sincere hope that when you visit us your experience will be one that encourages you to return. Our personal love of antiques creates an at home feel to our mall and promotes a relaxed and welcoming atmoshpere. You are cordially invited to Cookie's Antique World to shop, browse, or just to visit.
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Have an Antique Shop, Flea Market or Boutique? Our Ozarks Magazine is a great way to get the word out on your business! Contact us at Ourozarks@yahoo.com to discuss advertising options! You can also visit our website for more information: Ourozarks.com/antique-section-advertising
Now Open in Ozark! 1999 East State Highway 14
Take Walmart Exit on Hwy 65 and find us 1/2 mile east of Murfin’s Market
Antiques, Collectibles, Crafts, Housewares & Furniture Roderique’s Antique Gallery J. H. Roderique 417-859-4408
Marshfield, Missouri
...........................
Selling unique hand blown antique glassware and other small collectibles. We carry bottles from the Civil War era; ranging from $20.00-$100.00. We also have in stock some beautiful glass bowls and vases that would make great center pieces for a holiday party. Like us on Facebook!
Open 7 Days a Week! Mon - Saturday 9:30 to 5:30 Sunday 12:00 to 4:00
Foxwood Antiques
387 N 21st St Ozark, MO (417) 300-4466
Hours M-F 10:00 to 5:00 Sat 9:00 to 5:00 Sun Closed ...........................
Foxwood Local Antique shop specializes in unique and unusual items. From advertising to industrial for stocking the man cave to rustic decor. Find that item for the unusual collection. Located in a great antique & flea market community. Stop by a check out our inventory! Find Us On Facebook!
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(417) 324-6714
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Antiques, Primitives, Collectibles 60 + Booths
Kerry & Brenda May, owners
Antique Shop
(417) 581-5914 Mon - Sat 9:30 - 5:00 Sun 12:00 - 5:00
Tea Room
(417) 582-1331 Tues - Sat 10:30 - 2:00
Find Us on Facebook at springcreekantiquesozark
Spring Creek Antiques & Tea Room 107 South 3rd Street Ozark, Missouri 65721 Page 13 Our Ozarks Magazine
Through the Lens TM
Our Ozarks spotlights local photographers in each issue STEVE EICHELBERGER is a lifelong Missouri resident that has al-
ways loved the Ozarks. “I am an Adventure motorcycle rider that loves exploring the Ozarks via gravel roads and searching out hidden scenic treasures. Recently my motorcycle adventures have turned into photography adventures and then into wildlife photography adventures. Every day is different from the last when viewed through the lens of a camera, and I am fortunate that the Ozarks provide endless possibilities for an adventure seeking photographer. Steve resides in Columbia, Missouri and works for the City of Columbia. You can find other examples of his work at: https://seichelberger.smugmug.com
MIKE MARTIN is a native Arkansan, has been an avid nature and
wildlife photographer for over 20 years. His photos have been published throughout the United States and appeared in numerous exhibits. He has also had several of his photos published by Cornell University’s Ornithology Department’s award winning website, “All About Birds”. Mike is the author of a photography book entitled, Arkansas Wildlife and Landscapes. He is a regular speaker on topics ranging from nature and wildlife photography, to birds of Arkansas and bald eagles. He also regularly teaches photographic workshops on Nature and Wildlife. Mike has served as a career Human Resources Professional for over 35 years. More of his works and information can be found on his website: http://www.ozarknaturegallery.com
DIXIE BLACK lives in Bentonville, Arkansas with her husband of 23
years. She gives credit to her father for instilling the passion of photography within her, and they still enjoy photography together during trips Dixie makes with her parents. She is hardly ever without her camera, and loves photographing butterflies and primarly shoots her photos with a Nikon Coolpix P900. Dixie also enjoys camping with family near Eureka Springs near the Beaver Dam on the White River. “I love to just get out and explore!” Dixie is an avid amateur photographer who focus on outdoor and nature shots.
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Through the Lens
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Raptors! Bald Eagle In Title Background by Mike Martin (Left Upper) Immature Red-Tailed Hawk by Steve Eichelberger (Left Middle) Red Shouldered Hawk by Steve Eichelberger (Left Lower) Bald Eagle Amongst Redwing Blackbirds by Steve Eichelberger (Right Upper) Great Horned Owl by Mike Martin (Right Lower) Baby Great Horned Owls In Nest by Mike Martin
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(Left Upper) Osprey by Mike Martin (Left Lower) Immature Bald Eagle by Mike Martin (Right Upper) Barred Owl by Dixie Black (Right Lower) Great Horned Owl by Dixie Black Notice how the immature bald eagle has not developed the iconic white head feathers and has the mottled body feathers. What are raptors, aka birds of prey? Many birds hunt, kill, and eat meat, but they may not be raptors. There are three distinguishing traits that make raptors different from other birds: • hooked beaks with sharp edges • feet with sharp, curved claws or talons • keen eyesight The word “raptor” means “to seize or grasp” in Latin. Raptors use their powerful, sharp talons to capture their prey and to defend themselves. Several bird species are considered raptors. Eagles, hawks, kites, falcons, and owls are all considered raptors, while owls are considered nocturnal and most other raptors are diurnal (hunt during the day). We will take a closer look at raptors in upcoming issues.
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Walking The Ozarks of Missouri and Arkansaw Henry Rowe Schoolcraft and a companion, Levi Pettibone, began the long trek through the region we know as the Ozarks on November 6, 1818. They would embark with shotguns, rudimentary supplies and a lone packhorse named Butcher in tow. A questionable preparation for a winter adventure. The journey was to survey the mineral deposits of the land, but serves today to give us a glimpse at the early days of settlement within the Ozarks. Schoolcraft’s book on the trip, entitled “Journal of a Tour into the Interior of Missouri and Arkansaw”, details areas that we find of interest to this day, such as the spring where Topaz Mill now stands, familiar rivers and streams, Smallin Cave and the plateaus near Springfield, Missouri.
Henry Rowe Schoolcraft
Henry Rowe Schoolcraft (March 28, 1793 – December 10, 1864) was an American Born 1793 Died 1864 geographer, geologist, and ethnologist, noted for his early studies of Native American cultures, as well as for his journey through the Ozarks and his 1832 expedition to the source of the Mississippi River. He is also noted for his major six-volume study of the west was Missouri and the Ozarks. He traveled to PoAmerican Indians in the 1850s. Schoolcraft also served as tosi, Missouri and became acquainted with Moses Austin, an Indian agent in Michigan and married Jane Johnston, an owner of mines in the region and a community leader the mixed-race daughter of a well-known Scotch-Irish fur (his son was Stephen F. Austin who is known as the Father trader and Ojibwa mother, herself a daughter of Ojibwa of Texas). Schoolcraft did not tarry long before planning war chief Waubojeeg. Jane became the first Native Amerihis three-month, nine-hundred-mile journey into the White can literary writer in the United States. River Valley region of the Ozarks to survey lead and other mineral deposits. On his return, Schoolcraft published his Her Native American name of Bamewawagezhikaquay, “View of the Lead Mines of Missouri”, and in 1821 he pubwhich meant “Woman of the Sound that the Stars make lished his “Journal of a Tour into the Interior of Missouri Rushing Through the Sky. (January 31, 1800-May 22, 1842) and Arkansaw”. wrote poetry and traditional Ojibwa stories. Jane also translated Ojibwa songs. Her stories were a key source Schoolcraft had hoped his work would catch the attention for Henry Wadsworth Longfellow’s popular “The Song of of leaders and he would receive appointment as a federal Hiawatha (1855). superintendent of the region. Instead, he was selected to be the mineralogist and naturalist for the Cass Expedition Jane suffered ill health through most of her life, and it that would explore Lake Superior and travel the Upper has been suspected by many that she became addicted to Mississippi to find the river’s source. After the expedition, laudanum, a powerful opiate that had prescribed to her to Schoolcraft would be appointed as Indian agent around soothe pain. the Michigan region and ultimately find his first wife Jane. Many of the places in Michigan were named by Schoolcraft, Henry remarried to a southern belle named Mary Howand later his name was given to many places in the state, ard, who became a noted author in her own right. Mary including Schoolcraft County. was born of a slave holding family in South Carolina, and her bestselling novel “The Black Gauntlet” was in opposiThe Cass Expedition did not make it to the river source, but tion to the anti-slavery theme of Uncle Tom’s Cabin. Her Schoolcraft would return in 1832 and led the group that viewpoints were a bone of contention with the mixed-race navigated to Lake Itasca-the headwaters of the Mississippi. children from Schoolcraft’s first marriage. After Jane’s death, Schoolcraft moved to Washington, D.C. Schoolcraft was the son of a glassmaker and entered the and received a commission in 1846 for a study of American field himself after studies in geology and mineralogy Indians. He suffered a stroke as the result of rheumatism at Middlebury College in New York. Avid collectors of in 1848, but would continue his work with the assistance of vintage bottles will be aware of the bottles that Schoolcraft his second wife Mary. The result would be his six-volume designed with the masonic symbols while working at glass- series titled “Indian Tribes of the United States”. While works in New York, Vermont and New Hampshire. some sources note that Schoolcraft died disabled and penniless, a review of census records at the time show that he When Henry turned 25, he heard the call of the west. And and Mary listed significant assets for the time.
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Reprinted courtesy of James Harlan and The Curators of University of Missouri, Columbia We return to our intrepid adventurers as Schoolcraft and Pettibone embark on that November 6, 1818 day. They head southwest, their “first destination� being Ashley Cave, where William Henry Ashley operated a saltpeter mine (saltpeter contains potassium nitrate, a component of gunpowder). The men traveled along the Osage Trace (a well-used Native American trail, that in some places can still be seen from the air and satellite). They happened through a village of Delaware Indians and during the three-month journey, Schoolcraft made note of several abandoned tribal settlements they would find. At times, they would come upon settlements of those who had made their homes in the wilderness, and sometimes hunters would join them for portions of the trip. More than once they became lost, at times losing the pack horse and provisions and wetting their gunpowder and guns, and all but starved to death. After Ashley Cave, they turned south off the trace and headed along the Big Piney River until hitting the upper
waters of the North Fork of the White River, between what is now Mountain Grove and Cabool, Missouri. Schoolcraft was amazed by the springs and limestone bottom of the river, noting: “The stream which we are pursuing is devious beyond all example, and is further characterized by being made up of wholly of springs, which bubble up from the rocks along its banks. No tributary has, as yet, swelled its current, either from right or left; but it continues to visibly to increase from the springs, some of which are of immense size, and all remarkable for the purity of their waters. We have passed one of these springs today, which deserves to be ranked among the natural phenomena of this region. It rushes out of an aperture in a limestone rock, at least fifty yards across, and where it joins the main river, about 1000 yards below, is equal to it, both in width and depth, the waters possessing the purity of crystal. I set my gun against a tree, and unbuckled my belt, preparatory to a drink, and in taking a few steps towards the brink of the spring, discov Continued on Page 21
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Schoolcraft
CAMP. MARKER ERECTED 1921 BY ROTARY CLUB OF SPRINGFIELD, MISSOURI.
ered an elk’s horn of most astonishing size, which I afterwards hung upon a limb of a contiguous oak, to advertise the future traveler that he had been preceded by human footsteps in his visit to the Elkhorn Spring.”
Having found their primary objective of the trip, Schoolcraft and Pettibone spent some days digging about the lead mining area. While they dug, back in the eastern United States, the beginning of the 1819 financial panic began. Carefree of any knowledge of the matter, the men then continued back down the James River.
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This spring is now known as Topaz Spring, where the historical Topaz Mill still sits. A couple days later, after leaving the banks of the North Fork, they would happen upon a small cave, and somewhere within, Schoolcraft carved a date and part of a poem. To date, the cave and markings have not been discovered. Interestingly, a few days later, on Thanksgiving Day, Schoolcraft would find a leftover pumpkin patch and make a stew of it for their dinner. Days later, Schoolcraft and Pettibone became lost and were on verge of starving when they came upon a family called Wells, who fed them, and pointed them towards their next destination of the Beaver Creek settlement. Schoolcraft and Pettibone arrived at Beaver Creek on December 13, and while searching for a guide, remained in the company of a family named Holt and Fischer. Schoolcraft notes that hunters killed a bear, panther and buffalo. On Christmas Day, turkeys were killed for the holiday dinner of turkey pie. On December 27, Holt and Fischer provided escort towards Swan Creek, to which our adventurers would follow towards Springfield to find the lead deposits known of the region. Following the clear waters of the Swan, they passed abandoned Osage camps, and after crossing the small plateau near Sparta, Missouri made their way across Finley River and headed towards the James River Valley. It is here that they came upon Smallin Cave in what is now just outside Ozark, Missouri. Schoolcraft wrote: “On leaving Findley’s Fork (Finley has been known as Findley in years pasts), we followed up a small deep valley, which in a short distance, and after a few windings, terminated suddenly in a cave opening on a hillside the whole width of the valley, with a stream running from its mouth. The first appearance of this stupendous cavern struck us with astonishment, succeeded by a curiosity to explore its hidden recesses.” Schoolcraft continues with a full description of the exterior and portions of the interior of the cave. After they left Smallin Cave, they continued their journey into the James River region, and set up camp where Springfield, Missouri is now. A historical marker has been laid in the Pearson Creek area commemorating the Schoolcraft camp. The marker reads: “HENRY SCHOOLCRAFT, GEOLOGIST, EXPLORER AND ETHNOLOGIST, CAMPED HERE JAN. 1, 1819. SITE OF FIRST LEAD MINE AND PRIMITIVE SMELTER IN SOUTHWEST MISSOURI. ALSO OF OSAGE
They eventually came upon the Finley again, this time where it pours into the James. Schoolcraft noted that it would be a great spot for settlement, and years later mills and towns would be built in this area by others sharing that same thought as they came upon the land. The pair turned away from the James with the intention of getting back to Swan Creek as a route to the White River, but instead followed Bull Creek and later found their way across to the banks of the White. Travel downstream via canoe was procured and they would find themselves passing Beaver Creek, and land near the area of the White River called Bull Shoals (later lands flooded to create Bull Shoals Lake). They took to land at this point, lending the canoe to another so that they could transport goods downstream. They traveled to a few miles above the mouth of the North Fork River and awaited the return of the canoe. There appeared to be quite the celebration upon the return of several traders and hunters, along with the man who had borrowed their canoe. Schoolcraft noted: “Whiskey soon began to circulate freely, and by the time they had unloaded their canoes, we began plainly to discover that a scene of riot and drinking was to follow. Of all this, we were destined to be unwilling witnesses; for as there was but one house, and that a very small one, necessity compelled us to pass the night together; but sleep was not to be obtained. Every mouth, hand, and foot, were in motion. Some drank, some sang, some danced, a considerable proportion attempted all three together, and a scene of undistinguishable bawling and riot ensued.” Schoolcraft goes on to later add that “We joyfully embarked in our canoe, happy in having escaped bodily disfigurations.” The journey took them on downstream, past current areas of Buffalo City (where the Buffalo River joins the White) and past the magnificent bluffs of Calico Rock, and onto Poke Bayou (now known as Batesville, Arkansas). There they turned upon the Arkansaw Road to head back north to Potosi. At some point, Schoolcraft sprained his ankle and was unable to go further without rest. It was decided that Pettibone would continue to St. Louis alone. This was January 21, some 76 days since the day of their journey’s start. Traveling through the rocky hillsides of the Black and St. Francois Rivers, he passed where Farmington is now and finally found himself near to home. Buoyed by the knowledge, he made quick haste of the rest of the road and returned to Potosi on February 4th, 1819.
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Picks, Mules & Dreams
Ozarks’ Mining History Tailings. That is what they call the left over debris of mining. Tales. That is the stories we long to hear of the romantic image of mining history. Truth. That is something in between tales and tailing. The rich history of Ozarks’ mining carries many true stories of backbreaking labor, of riches, and of spent dreams and empty pockets. The prospect of gold, silver and precious stones drive the dreams of treasure hunting. Most of the Ozarks’ mining prospects were not that shiny, as the true mining wealth of the area lay in the dull color of lead, and black of coal. Drawing of Ozarks’ mining operation by artist James Burkhart.
We Struck Lead! With drop of the word “mining”, one is more apt to think to the history of the California gold rush rather than to the woods, rivers and streams about the hills and hollows of the Ozarks. Before the 49ers and the race to Sutter’s Mill, the Ozarks were the land of promise for miners. After the Spanish had gave up on their dreams of finding gold and silver, the French set their picks to the area. Lead was the treasure found, and the possibility of silver and other metals and minerals that often accompanies lead deposits. Native Americans had dug the soils, and their ancestors before them. Flint for arrowheads, clays for their pots, pipes and bowls, and even iron oxide for paints was their prize. The Spanish followed, leaving a few traces of primitive mining efforts, and then came the French by the latter part of the 17th century. Father Jaques Gravier’s journal entry of October 1700 noted the presence of a rich lead ore twelve or thirteen leagues (a league is 3 miles) from the mouth of the “River Miaramigoua” (Meramec). This led to French expeditions that hoped to find silver. Their desires left them wanting, as the Ozarks are not rich in silver and gold. They did find lead in quantities that enticed others to stay. A historical marker at Mine La Motte, Missouri commemorates the first lead mine as the year 1700. In 1720, Phillipe Francois Renault arrived to the same area known as the Old Mines region, which would have been roughly where Father Gravier had noted his lead find. Renault’s mining grant extended some 81 square miles. Phillipe’s father had been an iron founder, and the young man followed in the studies of metallurgy and found favor
with King Louis XV of France and was appointed as director-general of mining for the exploration of the Americas. Continued on Page 23
Photo Credit: Wikimedia Commons by Kbh3rd A historical marker in Mine La Motte, Missouri commemorating the first lead mine in the Missouri. The text reads: “This tablet marks the site of the first lead mine opened in the Mississippi Valley about the year 1700. It is named for Antoine De LaMotte Cadillac, governor of Louisiana 1710-1717. Erected December 7, 1933, by the State Society Daughters of the American Colonists and the John Forster Chapter founded by Katharine Forster Cayce.”
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Mining History
United States rule just a few years later as a result of the Louisiana Purchase.
Renault brought the first slaves to the Ozarks (varying accounts range of between 200 and 500 slaves) and began mining what would later be known as one of the largest galena lead deposits in the world. A shipping port was established in 1735 by the name of Ste. Genevieve, and is known as the first organized community west of the Mississippi by the French.
Moses again lost his wealth during the financial Panic of 1819 and was put in debtors prison on March 11, 1820. He again sought the help of the Spanish and obtained a land grant to settle 300 families in Texas in 1820. Sadly, Moses died in June of 1821 after he returned to Potosi to prepare for the move. His son, Stephen F. Austin, would carry out the plan of moving the families and became known as the Father of Texas.
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Renault also established the community of St. Phillipe on the Illinois side of the river (continual flooding caused the town to be abandoned years later and today there are no remnants). Renault sold his slaves and holdings in 1749, returned to France and would die six years later. 1754 brought the French and Indian Wars to the lands of the Ohio Valley to the east of the Mississippi. Britain won control from France and in 1762, France gave Spain control of Louisiana (which included the Missouri region). This era of turmoil for the French in America created a westward flow of Frenchman as they sought to escape British rule by crossing the Mississippi. Mining efforts had dwindled since Renault’s departure, but that changed with the influx of the French, and another large lead strike made a few miles north of Old Mines in the 1770s. The new strike would be called Mine Au Breton and in modern times became known as Potosi, Missouri in Washington County. In 1797, Moses Austin, having lost his lead mining business in Virginia, avoided debtors prison by traveling to Mine Au Breton, and after swearing allegiance to the Spanish Crown, began an organized lead mining effort there. Paradoxically, his lands would come under
Claim jumping brings to mind gunshots in the dark and races to the claim offices of the gold fields. But often, claim jumping occurred by staking legal claim to lands already held and questioning the validity of the original claims. Men, called “filibusters” or “filibutors”, also staked what might be considered illegal claims by venturing into the untamed lands held by other nations of the early Americas and using their private militia to hold the land. John Smith T. was one such man in the Ozarks, and was quite successful at it. In 1770, John Smith T. was born John Smith in Virginia and attended William & Mary College. At the age of 19, he financed his westward journey to Tennessee from the sale of slaves given to him by his father. He then chose to distinguish himself from other John Smiths by changing his name to John Smith T. (the T for Tennessee). Smith T. accumulated reputations in mining, as well as gun and weapon manufacturing. At the age of 27, Smith was commissioned to establish a river depot along the Ohio River. The town of Smithland was established and is the seat of Livingston County. Shortly after, his adventurous
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The flooded mine at Bonne Terre, Missouri has been rated the number one underwater attraction.
side took him to Missouri, but soon returned to Tennessee and acquired deed to 50,000 acres. He and his cousin, Meriweather Smith, founded the nearby town of Kingston that became the seat of Roane County. John Smith T. was not a man to stay in place for long, and in 1805 moved to Ste. Genevieve, Missouri. It was not long before he attempted to stake claims within the Potosi area and began a conflict with other miners, including Moses Austin, that lasted until into the 1830s. Threats of violence and court battles were the norm during this period termed “The Mineral Wars”. In 1804, Smith T. was made a justice of the Ste. Genevieve district, and was also Lieutenant Colonel of Militia and Commissioner of Weights and Levies, and in 1806 was also named as one of the Territorial Judges. Many believe this all resulted through his mining partnership with William Henry Ashley, who operated the profitable saltpeter operations at Ashley Cave on the Current River. Ashley later became Lieutenant Governor of Missouri. During his initial forays into the new lands, Austin had acquired a 3-pound cannon for defense. After Smith T. was named to his positions, he called Austin out and required that he surrender the cannon. Shortly after this, Smith T. joined Aaron Burr’s attempt to invade Mexico. He did not follow through with the conspiracy, but a warrant was issued for his arrest upon his return to Missouri. Smith T. drew weapons and challenged the lawmen to arrest him. The arrest did not come. However, John Smith T. saw his mining claims removed. In 1812, the defiant Smith T. sent a challenge for a duel to Governor Bates of the Louisiana Territory (Missouri was not yet a state). Bates declined. In 1819, John Smith T. supposedly made derogatory comments about Aaron Burr. Burr’s nephew, Lionel Browne, heard of this and challenged Smith T. to a duel. The duel took place on an island near Herculaneum. Browne was shot through the head by Smith T. and fell dead on first shot. Numerous other deaths followed in the path of John Smith
T., but charges never held up in the courts and he finally died in 1836 due to a fever. John Smith T. was also involved in early mining claims along the White River in Arkansas from 1807 through 1814. The Shawnee were also mining along the White River as records of 1814 show the claims of Colonel Lewis (Chief Quatawapea). The tribe had earlier claims granted in Missouri as well. Increased growth in mining in the Ozarks called for development of better knowledge and equipment. As early as 1804, the area leaders begged for a scientific training facility. It was not until 1870 that the Missouri School of Mines and Metallurgy was founded. On November 23, 1871 the first classes were held at Rolla, Missouri and later became known as University of Missouri at Rolla, and is now known as Missouri University of Science and Technology. The Ozark Mountain region is made up of the St. Francois Mountains, Salem Plateau, Springfield Plateau and the Boston Mountains. A gradient area of the Ozarks drifts across the Mississippi River into southwest Illinois, and is captured within the Shawnee Hills. The Old Mines, Mine La Motte and Mine Au Breton all lie within the St Francois Mountains. As do the Valle Mines later founded in the northern portions that range. As settlements grew westward, mining operations followed. Additional lead deposits were found in Missouri and Arkansas within the Salem and Springfield Plateaus, as well as the Boston Mountains. Other minerals, including coal, were found along the Mississippi and Arkansas River valleys, and into the border areas of the Ozarks in Kansas and Oklahoma. As Civil War fell upon the United States, the need for lead increased. Mining operations expanded. In 1864, the St. Joe Lead Company was formed to handle extractions at Bonne Terre Mine and Flat River Mine in the St. Francois Moun Continued on Page 25
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Mining History
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tains. Bonne Terre is now a flooded mine that draws divers from across the world, as well as tourists who take the underground boat tours. The Ozarks, just as the nation, was divided in loyalties to either side. Both Union and Confederate troops looked to take hold of mining regions. Another element of war brought attention to the Ozarks. Increased need for gunpowder meant an increased need for its main component of potassium nitrate that is found in saltpeter. At the time, a major source of saltpeter was the accumulation of bat guano in caves. Of course, being known as the Cave State, Missouri provided ample sources for mining, as did the volume of caves in Arkansas. The aforementioned William Henry Ashley had saltpeter operations at Ashley Cave along the Current River in what is now Dent County, Missouri. Ashley had moved to Ste. Genevieve in 1803 and started his fortune in land speculation and from the saltpeter cave. He served during the war of 1812 as Brigadier General in the Missouri Militia. After the war, Ashley returned to Missouri and partnered with Andrew Henry, a bullet-maker. The pair formed an expedition to journey to the mouth of the Missouri River in 1822. The expedition would be known as “Ashley’s Hundred”, as he had advertised for 100 men to join them on the trip. The end result of the journey was the formation of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company. The operations were credited for finding the South Pass of the Continental Divide, and Ashley devised the rendezvous system for trappers, Native Americans and traders to meet once a year to exchange furs, goods and money. Ashley led several expeditions into the western lands of Wyoming,
Colorado and Utah. In 1826, Ashley sold the fur trading company to Jedediah Smith and other men. During 1820 to 1824, he served as the first Lieutenant Governor of Missouri and would go on to serve in the United States House of Representatives in 1831, 1832, and 1834. He attempted at a run as Governor of Missouri in 1826 but lost. Ashley died of pneumonia on March 26, 1838 and was buried atop a Native American burial mound in Cooper County, Missouri overlooking the Missouri River. Other minerals are often found alongside lead deposits, including silver. Iron ore was also found in what is now Iron County, Missouri. Mining of iron began in that Arcadia Valley area in 1815. The American Iron Mountain Company was formed in 1843 and the completion of the St. Louis and Iron Mountain Railway in 1857 helped ship the ore from the town of Pilot Knob. Evidence of mining can still be found at Elephant Rock State Park just north of Pilot Knob. Old drill holes for blasting are still evident, and some minors etched their names and dates of service within the giant formations that surround the water-filled quarry. Further north to the other side of Potosi, the Pea Ridge Mine in Washington County was once considered the largest operating underground iron mine in North America. Opened in 1961, it was closed and flooded in 2001. At the outbreak of the Civil War, Confederate troops took control of the Granby lead mines in southwest Missouri. Records show that in 1861 alone, 75,000 pounds of pig lead (unrefined lead slugs) were hauled to Van Buren, Arkansas to be then shipped on to Memphis, Tennessee. The Union’s victory at the Battle of Pea Ridge in Arkansas pushed the Confederate mining operations out of the Ozarks’ region in Arkansas. Towards the end of the war, southern troops moved north
Missouri Mines State Historic Site Photo by Patty Wheatley Bishop See more of her photos at http://fineartamerica.com/profiles/2-patricia-bishop?tab=artwork
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as a last effort to disrupt Lincoln’s upcoming election. Major General Sterling Price led Confederate troops into Missouri and headed towards St. Louis. They came upon Fort Davidson, situated at Pilot Knob. While the mines of the area were not the target, the fort and railroads were. Union troops were outnumbered 10 to 1. They stood their ground for two days, losing 200 men to the Confederate losses of 1000 men. Under the cover of night, the remaining Union forces carried out a plan of escape while also exploding equipment within the powder magazine of the fort. The Confederate troops continued their march towards St. Louis, but eventually turned towards Kansas City, where they were ultimately defeated at Westport in October of 1864. That battle was called the “Gettysburg of the West”. Just over six months later, the war would end and the mines at Granby saw increased growth with additional deposits being found. The same was true of the tri-state mining area of Joplin and Webb City. By the end of that century, Joplin became the lead and zinc capital of the world. Arkansas initially saw mining operations falter after the war. The Calamine mine of Sharp County, Arkansas closed in 1871. The downward spiral would reverse in 1880 when the Morning Star Mine in Marion County was discovered on the Buffalo River tributary of Rush Creek. The mine became the largest producer of zinc in Arkansas. A record piece of zinc weighing nearly 13,000 pounds we excavated and shipped to the 1892 Chicago World’s Fair. The piece is now part of the Chicago Field Museum collection of natural history. A second large piece appeared in the 1904 St. Louis World’s Fair and became part of the Smithsonian collection in Washington, D.C.
Remaining residents drifted away, and in 1972 Rush took on the moniker of becoming a true ghost town as it became part of the Buffalo River National Park. The Rush Historic District is now on the National Register of Historic Places and there are but a few remnants of any buildings. An interpretive trail is provided that discusses the history and identifies locations of previous buildings and operations. The mine shafts are on private property and entrances sealed. Arkansas lead and zinc mining operations were also found at places such as Calamine, Galena, Lead Hill and Zinc. Many other mines were scattered about Arkansas and Missouri, although many were minimal operations, often even one man set-ups. In the 1950s and 60s, lead and zinc deposits were found extending from the edges of the mines in the St. Francois Mountains. The Viburnum Trend of lead and zinc deposits in Iron County, Missouri were found northwest of the Old Mines and Mine La Motte. South of Viburnum, lead and copper were discovered in the area of Slater Springs outside the township of Eminence in Shannon County, Missouri. Continued on Page 27
At its height of production, the town of Rush had a population of nearly five thousand people. Hotels and other businesses flourished. Production was a boom during World War I, but the demand dropped just as quickly as the war concluded in 1918. Attempts were made in the 1950s to revisit the mining at Rush as hopes were that it could be used in rocket construction, but those efforts never got off the ground.
An interpretive trail leads you through the remnants of the buildings and mining operations at the ghost town of Rush, Arkansas
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Mining History
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Farther west and in Oklahoma, another town had taken over as the largest producer of lead and zinc in the United States. Part of the tri-state mining region, mines at Picher, Oklahoma produced over $20 billion worth of ore between 1917 and 1947. More than fifty percent of the lead and zinc used during World War I came from that area. Mining finally ceased in 1967 as water was found to be contaminated from the abandoned mines and some 70 million tons of tailings were left standing in huge mounds about the cities of Picher, Cardin, Douthat and in nearby Treece, Kansas. It was just a matter of time before those four communities also became ghost towns. The communities became designated as part of the Tar Creek Superfund in 1980, but it would be years later when a study showed that 34 percent of the children were showing effects of lead poisoning. The EPA and state of Oklahoma then decided for an evacuation and buyout of those areas. Slowly, over a period from 2006 through 2013, they joined Rush as ghost towns. Missouri is the top lead-producing state, and 80 percent of the lead mined in Missouri goes into car batteries. Missouri is also the number one producer of lime in the United States, most of which goes into cement production. The Show-Me state is third in zinc, fifth in copper and sixth in silver mining of all 50 states. Coal mining also played a key role in the Ozarks as the steam engines of the railroads rolled into the region. We’ll take a closer look at the railroads and coal mining in coming issues of Our Ozarks Magazine.
(Above Left) Granby is noted as the oldest mining town in the southwest. (Above Right) Elephant Rocks State Park is a great place to take the family to explore the natural featurs of the huge rock formations, but also to explore the history of mining in the area. The bottom photo shows one of many marks left by miners in the 1800s. (Facing Page) Picher, Oklahoma is now a ghost town, the result of environmental damage from lead and zinc mining. The lower right photo, taken from the window of the old church, shows one of many mountainous piles of tailings (waste rock) left from mining. Another photo shows the school mascot standing sentinal near the abandoned park of Picher.
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Four New State Parks
helps supports numerous charitable groups.
you find at Eleven Point. The land and area surrounding is rich in history, with its knob hills beckoning to the days of the Bald Knobbers and the clear waters of Roark Creek whispering the words of Harold Bell Wright’s story of the Shepherd of the Hills.
That community mindedness was reflected in their purchase of the property in Branson. It has been noted that Dave had thought of a life of being a mountaineer when he was a youth, as he trapped and sold furs during those years. Some of that dream was realized with the ranch. Llamas, bison, horses and cattle were raised at the Branson property.
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Atop the hills of the park, you can sit on the stoop of the old Garber schoolhouse and have a clear view of Inspiration Tower where visitors are entertained by the tale of the Shepherd of the Hills and Old Matt. If you sit still enough, and let the gentle breeze carry the echoes of the hollows below, you can still hear Harold Bell Wright walking to the steps of John and Anna Ross at Old Matt’s Cabin and across Roark Creek below, and then on up to the town of Garber where he could visit them at the post office they ran. You see, John and Anna Ross were the inspiration for Old Matt and Mollie in his book. 1,011 acres make up the new park, but additional land once made up the Mungenast Ranch where the park sits. You an not actually access from the park, but if you could follow Roark Creek upstream from the park and pass under the Ozark Mountain Highroad bridge, and continue to follow the old railroad line, you would come upon what was once the town of Garber. The old post office that John and Anna Ross ran is long gone, as are the other old store buildings and homes. The old post office was burned by a later postal employee, and a new post office built. It now stands as the only reminder of Garber. Once part of the ranch, the ghost town was sold and became part of the gated community and golf course of Stonebridge. Much of the land was once known as Jones Ranch, but was later purchased by David Mungenast. Mungenast, Sr. was born in St. Louis, Missouri and served as a Green Beret. His love of motorcycles drove him to open a Honda motorcycle dealership in his hometown in 1965, and later added an auto dealership, as well as boat sales and marina at the Lake of the Ozarks. Dave won Honda its first American national championship motorcycle title when he took the 24-hour marathon at Riverdale Speedway in 1964. His love of motorcycles took him away from the business side of life at times, including work as a stunt man after developing a friendship with Hollywood stunt man and director, Stan Barrett. Dave was lured away to the Hollywood lights and stood in for such actors as Burt Reynolds, and brawled with Jackie Chan, in such movies as “Cannonball Run” and others. Mungenast business holdings grew into over a $200 million enterprise at the time of Dave’s death from brain cancer in 2006. He had served as chairman of the American International Automobile Dealers Association, met with U.S. presidents, and was a leading spokesman for the auto industry. Dave, and his wife Barbara, have always been community minded, and the Dave and Barbara Mungenast Foundation
Ranch manager Barry Johnson recalls how Dave lived. “You could meet Dave on the street and never know the wealth he had. He never felt himself above others. He never treated me like I was just an employee.” Johnson is not sure what paths he and his wife will take, now that the ranch has sold. As caretakers, their time will end there in May. Having served in a counseling ministry, while also working the ranch for the last twenty years, he has no doubt that the right door will open for them. “The park will be very nice for the community, given the history of the land. And you can just feel the peace here…people will enjoy that. Dave would be happy.” The state park abuts the Paul and Ruth Henning Conservation Area, an additional 1,534 acres of pristine nature trails preserved within sight of the homes and businesses of Branson. Paul Henning was known as the creator of the Beverly Hillbillies, Green Acres and Petticoat Junction television shows, and it was their desire to keep the landscape for all to enjoy. Cross over into these trails and history greets you with more features of Harold Bell Wright’s books including Dewey Bald, Boulder Bald, a portion of the “trail that is nobody knows how old,” Sammy Lane’s Lookout, The Signal Tree, and Little Pete’s Cave. Travel east to the border of Douglas and Ozark Counties in Missouri, near the historical town of Rockbridge, and you will be able to hike Bryant Creek State Park. Nestled amongst the history of the mills of Ozark and Douglas County, this park will provide a great launching point for visits to those mills at Rockbridge, Topaz, Hodgson, Dawt and Zanoni. Camping is likely to be primitive, and limited, but luckily, just four miles down the road is Rockbridge Trout and Game Ranch where cabins are available, and a fantastic restaurant awaits (reservations highly recommended). Visitors there can view the old post bank and post office, as well as Rockbridge Mill. You can also try your hand at trout fishing in the waters of Spring Creek. Back up at Bryant Creek State Park you are provided with a typical Ozark’s landscape of limestone and sandstone laced hills and bluffs along a spring fed stream. I will tend to lie to you about the quality of fishing on Bryant Creek, as I spend a lot of my own time on those waters…so I will not tell you that you will find smallmouth bass, goggle-eye (rock bass), or perch (sun fish), nor are there trout in Bryant below the point of where Rockbridge’s Spring Creek flows Continued on Page 31
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The one room Garber Schoolhouse sits atop the knob hill at Ozark Mountain State Park in Branson, Missouri. It served not only as a schoolhouse, but also a church and community building. Inspiration Tower can be seen in the distance as you visit the schoolhouse. Below are other scenes from the state park lands along Roark Creek.
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from the trout ranch. Bryant Creek is prone to the spring floods, and you will often find differences in the gravel bars each year as they shift back forth along the banks, as well as numerous log jams or single down trees that can provide issues for floaters. However, with careful navigation of those obstacles, the peace and tranquility can not be beat. Numerous springs and creeks fill Bryant. Deer, turkey, coyote and bobcat are abundant, and the occasional black bear, bald eagle and otter are seen. Feral hogs are found in certain areas along Bryant Creek. Assumption Abbey is not far upstream from the park, and there you can find spiritual repose and of course, their world-famous fruitcakes. Church services are open to the public there. Floating this stretch of Bryant Creek is dependent upon water levels, and best for kayaks rather than canoes, but any access placed here by the state will provide a float of approximately 5 to 7 miles to the Highway 95 bridge access, depending on placement. Historic Hodgson Mill is
another 9 to 10 miles down Bryant Creek on Highway 181 (I always stop at Roy’s Store in Dora, Missouri for a piece of pie when visiting the mill!) Looking across Bryant Creek to the opposite banks, one can see Yates Cemetery, there is buried one of my ancestors, Isaac Fleetwood. Isaac was of the first of the Fleetwood family that came to the Ozarks in the 1830s and lived upstream in Brown’s Cave while a cabin was built (Brown’s Cave is on private property and not open to the public). The Fleetwoods and Alsups are noted in lore for the Alsup-Fleetwood feud that occurred up and down the banks of Fox Creek, a downstream tributary of the Bryant. Tales of hidden silver mines pervade the Fleetwood and Brown family histories. Another golden nugget of nature has been preserved as Jay Nixon State Park along the Ozark Trail in Reynolds County, Missouri and will be found between Taum Sauk Mountain and Johnson’s Shut-Ins State Parks. The park will include 1,230 acres of rugged forest land and a 64-acre mountaintop lake the previous owner was developing on Proffitt Mountain, west of Taum Sauk Mountain State Park. The land does not come without bloodshed. A long-stand-
Numerous small wet-weather waterfalls are along the hills and bluffs of Bryant Creek State Park.
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ing disagreement between the owner of the land, a Thomas Hennessey, Jr. and Carl Jones, ended in both of their deaths. Hennessey opened fire on Jones during a dispute in a store parking lot, killing Jones in 2010. Hennessey was then fatally shot by deputies shortly after. Some of the proceeds from the sale of the estate of Hennessey went to the family of Jones as part of court settlement in a wrongful death suit. The purchase of lands for the four state parks comes as the result of funds received from a Natural Resource Damage Assessment and Restoration settlement with the American Smelting and Refining Company LLC (ASARCO). That settlement covered natural resource damages associated with mining at sites in the New Lead Belt portion of the Southeast Missouri Lead Mining District. The Southeast Missouri Lead Mining District spans multiple counties from 40 to 90 miles south southwest of St. Louis, Missouri, and located in the Big River, Black River and St Francois River watersheds. It is one of the largest lead-producing regions of the world.
aged lands, Missouri chose the option of using a portion of funds to purchase undamaged lands to replace the loss of property affected. Missouri received $41.2 million of the $194 million paid nationwide by ASARCO. Of that $41.2 million, $16.3 million was spent on purchase of the lands for the four new state parks. Earlier in 2016, Echo Bluff State Park opened in Shannon County near the Current River. Echo Bluff was designed as a more family friendly experience, with lodging, RV facilities, a playground and a restaurant; while the four newest parks will have minimal in the way of amenities. With the addition of Jay Nixon State Park, Missouri State Parks now offers 92 state parks and historic sites that reported over 20 million visitors in 2016.
The restoration settlement sets about to provide for either restoration of damaged lands or purchase of other lands to offset those damaged. Natural resources injured by the release of mining-related contaminants include surface water, groundwater, stream sediments, floodplain soils, fish, migratory birds, and aquatic invertebrates. Among other locations, ASARCO operated mines, mills, and a smelter which released heavy metals in Iron, and Reynolds counties. Due to extreme costs in attempting to restore dam-
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