Go Rail 9-3 Featuring Dermot Kennedy

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2019 • VOL:09 ISSUE:03

Dermot Kennedy IRELAND’S NEW POP SUPERSTAR TAKES A BOW

IT’S A FU N N Y OLD LIFE

T E E N A G E R A M PA G E

Ardal O’Hanlon

Billie Eilish

F R O M B A L LY G O B B A R D TO THE BIG SCR EEN

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PORTRAIT: BOO GEORGE

Contents

2019 VO LU M E 0 9 ISSU E 03

D E R M OT K E N N E DY PAG E 2 0 06 / Go For It A look at some of the biggest events happening up and down the country. Â 16 / Train News All the latest happenings in the world of the Irish Rail Network. 20 / Dermot Kennedy Ireland's newest music superstar chats about his stunning debut album, Without Fear, as well as having Billie Eilish and Taylor Swift as celebrity fans. 24 / Sarah Breen and Emer McLysaght The women behind Oh My God What A Complete Aisling reflect on how the series has turned into a publishing phenomenon.

26 / Ardal O'Hanlon The Irish comedy star on his superb new stand-up tour, The Showing Off Must Go On, and the lasting impact of Father Ted. 28 / My Favourite Train Journey Irish singer Wallis Bird on her fond childhood memories of travelling from Enniscorthy to Dublin. 30 / Billie Eilish The pop superstar talks to Stuart Clark about Justin Bieber, Paul McCartney, Glen Hansard and more. 34 / Darklands Stephen Porzio meets the cast and crew of Virgin's gritty drama, which has proved one of the most talked-about new shows of the year. 3

40 / Celebrity Table Lucy O'Toole enjoys a lunchtime chat with bestselling author Cathy Kelly. 48 / Go Travel A guide to the gorgeous scenery and cultural delights of Greek island Samothraki. Â 50 / Fashion Roe McDermott on why leather is back in vogue this winter. 53 / Reviews We select the must-watch new movies on Netflix, as well as dipping into the latest book and album releases.


CREDITS MANAGIN G EDITOR

Máirin Sheehy COMMISSIONING EDITOR

Editor’s Letter

2019 VO LU M E 0 9 ISSU E 03

Emily O’Callaghan CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

Paul Nolan CONTRIBUTORS

Stuart Clark Peter McNally Peter McGoran Stephen Porzio Roe McDermott Lucy O’Toole Roisin Dwyer Paul Nolan DESIGN & PRODUCTION

Hot Press 100 Capel Street Dublin 1 ART DIRECTOR

Eimear O'Connor DESIGN

Karen Kelleher Emily Treacy A DV E R T I S I N G M A N A G E R

Tom Corcoran GROUP ADVERTISING MANAGER

Catherine Madden C HIEF PHOTOGRAPHER

Miguel Ruiz C OV E R P H O T O G R A P H

Boo George PUBLISHER

Niall Stokes P R I N T E D BY

Boylan’s Print Go Rail is published for Iarnród Éireann by: Osnovina Ltd 100 Capel Street, Dublin 1 TELEPHONE

(01) 2411 500 EMAIL

gorail@hotpress.ie LETTERS

The Editor, Go Rail Magazine, 100 Capel Street Dublin 1 While every effort has been made to ensure the information in this magazine is correct, the publishers cannot accept any responsibilities for errors. The views contained in this magazine are those of the authors and not necessarily those of Iarnród Éireann. All material © Osnovina 2019. All rights reserved. Reproduction of material without permission of the publishers is strictly prohibited.

Púca Festival

WHERE AUTUMN MEETS WINTER In Ireland we have become much more comfortable embracing the rituals and the symbols of our pagan past. With Hallowe’en on the way, that seems like it might just be the basis for a festival or two!

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utumn is a special time. Just look out the window of the train, as it cuts through the Irish countryside and you’ll see the wonderful colours of the trees, the bushes and the shrubs. What in the summer was a sea of different shades of green has mellowed into something altogether more varied, and beautiful. There are shades of dark green, pale green, yellow, orange, red and brown, alongside the evergreen of the pine trees, the beech, the eucalyptus and the laurel that are part of the landscape in different places across the country. These are colours, and variations on colours, that no one could possibly have designed. A single leaf can contain a multitude. Thousands together can, at times, seem to carry the secret of the universe. In a way, in the random, unpredictable, chaotic nature of what we see, they do offer a unique insight into precisely that. Every autumn, they look just a little bit different, depending on the clemency or otherwise of the weather. More sun, rain or wind will alter the speed at which the trees are disrobed. Fierce rain can strip a tree relatively quickly if it happens at that moment when the leaves have started to come loose and are beginning to fall of their own accord. As a result, the landscape changes every day, at this time of year. It is beautiful and inspiring in its every guise. Even the skeletal trees that we are left with after all of the leaves have been thrown to the ground have a stark but wonderful aesthetic. The shorter evenings have us thinking of Christmas, and the prospect of family members returning from all over the world. But first there is Samhain, and the feast

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of Hallowe’en. It is something at which Irish people have always been good – the communal sharing of both the moment of plenty that traditionally came after the harvest; and the superstitions and fears that are at the heart of Hallowe’en and the transition to winter. It is a pleasure to see the skeletal figures, the witches’ hats, the hollowed out eyes and the cobwebs bedecking houses around Dublin and elsewhere across the country. We are much more inclined than ever before to embrace the old Irish pagan moments, much more confident now in the sense that this is all play. And so it is. Children dress up and ask their neighbours to “Help the hallowe’en party.” We re-explore the world of the supernatural now in a knowing way, with festivals and events. That one of the greatest of all gothic horror stories was written by an Irishman was not widely advertised until relatively recently. Now, we are very happy to raise a hat to Bram Stoker, the Irishman who wrote Dracula. Published in 1897, it was not a success initially, despite positive reviews. But it has gone on to become one of the most successful novels of all time, with an estimated 217 films in which Dracula appears as a major character. The Bram Stoker Festival in Dublin and the Púca Festival – centred in Drogheda, Athboy and Trim, with the motto “come alive in the dark” – aim to celebrate different aspects of that Irish supernatural gothic horror tradition in style. This is a time, we are told, that rules can be broken. Somehow, that feels like just the ticket right now. Of course, we also know that Christmas is just around the corner. But for now, let’s put on our masks and party! MÁIRIN SHEEHY



GO FOR IT

A R U N D O W N O F W H AT ' S H O T & H A P P E N I N G BY P E T E R M c N A L LY

SINÉAD O’CONNOR Anyone who saw Sinéad O’Connor’s recent breathtaking performance of ‘Nothing Compares 2 U’ on the The Late Late Show was left in no doubt that the Dublin-born singer-songwriter is back doing what she does best. After a turbulent few years, O’Connor’s return received nothing less than

BRIAN LEGARD

N OTHIN G C OMPARES TO HER a mass outpouring of admiration and respect. She recently performed at Féile ’19 at Temple Stadium in Thurles, opening with The Pogues' ‘A Rainy Night In Soho’, accompanied by the Irish Chamber Orchestra. Her date at Limerick’s Live At The Big Top is one of only a handful on the cards for this year. Not to be missed.

NEED TO KNOW WHEN: NOV 1 WHERE: LIVE AT THE BIG T O P, L I M E R I C K

F O R B E S T VA L U E FA R E S O N A L L I N T E R C I T Y S E RV I C E S C H E C K O U T I R I S H R A I L . I E 6


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SCOT IN THE CITY LEWIS CAPALDI It may bear the characteristically self-effacing title Divinely Uninspired To A Hellish Extent, but Scottish sensation Lewis Capaldi’s debut was a major hit on these shores, quickly becoming the fastest selling album of the decade in Ireland by a male singer. He’s also the first artist to sell-out an arena tour before releasing an album. Capaldi’s date at the Olympia offers fans a rare chance to see him up-close-andpersonal, before he heads back to the arena stages. Of his return to Ireland, the delighted star told one publication: “I cannot wait to come back over. Get ready for a big kiss, every single last one of you.”

NEED TO KNOW W H E N : N O V 21 W H E R E : O LY M P I A T H E AT R E , DUBLIN

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SC ARE IT'S AT PÚCA HALLOWEEN FESTIVAL, Athboy, Drogheda and Trim, October 31–November 2 Fáilte Ireland invite you to visit the birthplace of Halloween with a fantastic new festival set to take over three towns in Ireland’s Ancient East. It will open with the traditional lighting of the Samhain fires at the Hill Of Ward in Athboy, which will ignite a three day programme of theatre, music, film and light installations in one of Ireland’s oldest towns, Drogheda. Over the course of these three days of spooky celebration, the stunning and historic Trim Castle will host three supernatural nights of music, lights and halloween spectacle, featuring concerts by Jerry Fish, KORMAC, Just Mustard, Pillow Queens and Æ MAK.

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THE FEAR FACTOR DERMOT KENNEDY, 3Arena, Dublin, December 22 & 23 With his debut album, Without Fear, landing him on the top of the charts at home and abroad, Dermot Kennedy has proved himself to be much more than just another busker-turned-superstar with a powerhouse voice and an acoustic guitar. The Rathcoole singersongwriter has carved out a fiery path of his own – propelled by deeply resonant singles, impressive live performances and the infinite reach of the internet. Having clocked up sets at Coachella, Lollapalooza, Austin City Limits and a stellar homecoming performance at Electric Picnic, Dermot’s upcoming 3Arena gigs look set to capture an artist on the cusp of greatness.

LET'S DANCE CORK CITY BALLET, Opera House, Cork, Nov 7-10 Ballet fans are in for a treat this November, when Cork City Ballet brings not one, but two, classic ballets back to the Cork Opera House. Even if you if think you know Tchaikovsky’s classic Swan Lake (November 7–9), arguably the world’s most beloved ballet, few will be familiar with Cork City Ballet’s version. According to Artistic Director Alan Foley, “unlike the unalloyed tragedy most people cherish, this version ends with a fairytale twist.” Then, from November 8–10, Christmas classic The Nutcracker will lead the audience on an enchanting journey through the Land of Snow, to the magical Kingdom of the Sweets.

JAMES McCLEAN

THE DANE EVENT UEFA EURO QUALIFIER: REPUBLIC OF IRELAND V DENMARK, Aviva Stadium, Dublin, November 18 At time of writing, Ireland are still precariously positioned at the top of their qualifying group. However, an underwhelming nil-all draw against Georgia and a loss in Geneva to a dominant Switzerland in mid-October, mean that this Dublin meeting with the Danes is a must-win match for Mick McCarthy and his boys in green. Anything less than a comprehensive victory will hand progression to Denmark and Switzerland who both still have a match in hand. As usual, the national side is taking it down to the wire, ensuring that nerves are frayed across the country, but we've come back against tougher odds in the past. COYBIG!

NEED TO KNOW W H E N : N O V 7 – 10 WHERE: CORK OPERA HOUSE, CORK

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FL AVOUR OF THE MONTH SAVOUR THE FLAVOUR OF DONEGAL TOWN Various Venues, Donegal, November 28–30 Sure to get you in the Christmas spirit, this year’s Savour The Flavour Of Donegal Town will include the lighting of the town’s spectacular Christmas lights. The festival will immerse visitors in the best food and drink Donegal town has to offer, with hotels, restaurants and cafés creating dishes with delicious local produce. Among the highlights are seasonal food and drink pairings; interactive food tours; barista coffee classes; cookery classes; and a food and craft fair.

THE JOURNEY HOME

SPECIAL FEATURE

THE DIFFERENCE WE CAN MAKE TOGETHER… Last year alone, Focus Ireland supported a record 15,500 people who were homeless or at risk of homelessness, and now provide over 1,100 homes for people nationwide. It is expected that hundreds of thousands of passengers will travel home on Iarnród Éireann Irish Rail services over the Christmas period. There are many who don’t have this choice, and we are asking the travelling public to help us work to change this along with Focus Ireland.

It’s 5.15pm and the train carriage is bustling. Men, women, couples, families, are all making their way home. From a regular day at work or perhaps some Christmas shopping in town. For many of us, this is the journey we make many times. The journey home. All of us can sometimes take our own home for granted, but not everyone has this security. For over 10,000 people in Ireland, the journey home begins with a call to Focus Ireland. Sadly, over 10,000 people are homeless nationwide right now. Almost 4,000 are children. This Christmas season, Iarnród Éireann Irish Rail is once again proud to work with Focus Ireland, in its bid raise vital funds to help in the delivery of the charity’s frontline services, while helping to raise public awareness about homelessness in Ireland. The partnership will also support the work that Focus Ireland do to prevent homelessness, and to provide vital immediate and long-term supports for people who are currently experiencing homelessness. Sadly, the crisis has worsened throughout 2019. Each month, in the Dublin Region alone, an average of 92 families became newly homeless in the first eight months of this year. More than 1 in every 3 people who are homeless is a child. As the crisis is continuing to deepen, the situation would be much worse without the lifeline services and housing Focus Ireland supporters help provide.

HOW TO GET INVOLVED: Go to focusireland.ie/donate/ and give today. Get your friends, family and colleagues together for a Christmas Jumper Day. Details and registration forms are available at focusireland.ie. From mid-November, fundraising initiatives such as choirs and volunteer bucket collectors will be in stations nationwide. There will also be an option to donate online on irishrail.ie as an addon while booking your ticket home.

FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THE VITAL WORK OF FOCUS IRELAND, LOG ON TO FOCUSIRELAND.IE 9


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ALL THAT JAZZ GUINNESS CORK JAZZ FESTIVAL The Guinness Cork Jazz Festival has been packing them into the People’s Republic since 1978. Set in various venues across the city centre, the bill always boasts an eclectic mix of musical styles. As well as jazz, you’ll also encounter R&B, soul, hip-hop, rock and more. This year’s highlights include British soul star Mica Paris paying tribute to Ella Fitzgerald; cult favourites Spyro Gyra; soul legends Martha Reeves & The Vandellas; festival favourites The Big Brass Band Explosion; and, most intriguingly, ‘No Strings Attached’ – a live orchestral rendition of Dr Dre’s 2001.

NEED TO KNOW WHEN: OCT 24–28

M I C A PA R I S

ELLA FITZGERALD

W H E R E : VA R I O U S VENUES, CORK

VISIT ROSCOMMON THERE IS SO MUCH TO SEE AND DO IN ROSCOMMON… A county of castles and ancient kings, stately homes and spectacular landscapes, Roscommon is rich in memories of Ireland’s ancient past. And, with a host of activities and attractions to be found upon its sprawling wildflower meadows, peat bogs, turloughs, rivers and lakes, and within its lush native woodlands; Roscommon is also the perfect destination in which to create cherished new memories. From great outdoor activities and adventures, to fascinating heritage attractions, including museums, castles and period homes; Roscommon offers an amazing glimpse into Ireland’s ancient past, from the neolithic period of 4,500 BC right up until present day. Elsewhere, the exquisite accommodation and homegrown food perfectly complement the stunning scenery. So, come discover Roscommon… Land of Memories!

SNOW BUSINESS THE SNOWMAN CHRISTMAS SPECIAL, Bord Gais Energy Theatre, Dublin, December 6–8 Raymond Briggs’ film The Snowman has captured the minds and hearts of generations, and established itself as part of the annual Christmas festivities for young and old alike. This screening of the classic 1982 seasonal spectacular will be accompanied by a thrilling live score from the Irish Philharmonic Orchestra. Featuring ‘Walking In The Air’ and a selection of other Christmas classics, bring your jingle bells, wear your fancy dress, and make sure you book early!

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SNEEM INTERNATIONAL STORYTELLING AND FOLKLORE FESTIVAL Recently the location for Colin Farrell’s 2014 film, The Lobster, the quiet, remote town of Sneem is also home to the Sneem International Storytelling & Folklore Festival. Now in its eighth year, the festival breathes life back into the lost tradition of storytelling, with a weekend of events including storytelling concerts, pub–trails and workshops. Adding to the allure is the picturesque Sneem itself, a small town tucked between the mountains and the sea. This year the festival will also host two plays, Kate Corkery’s The Sweetshop On The Shore, and Fionn Foley’s Brendan Galileo For Europe.

NEED TO KNOW

WHERE:

VA R I O U S VENUES, SNEEM, CO . K E R RY

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W H E N : N O V 8 – 10

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NORTHERN HIGHLIGHTS ATLANTIC SESSIONS Various Venues, Portrush, Portstewart & Portballintrae, November 15 – 18 Showcasing a huge range of original music, from traditional to contemporary and electric to acoustic, Atlantic Sessions has emerged as a permanent feature on the cultural calendar in the pubs, hotels, coffee shops and town halls across Portrush, Portstewart and Portballintrae. This year, the free Music Trail will feature over 50 live original music gigs at a host of unique venues, with headline ticketed acts also on offer across the weekend. Atlantic Sessions provides a platform for up and coming talent and established artists from across Northern Ireland and beyond to have their music celebrated outside the urban hubs. The line-up for the 11th outing includes appearances from Amanda St. John, The Bonnevilles, Ryan McMullan, Darkling Air with The Arco String Quartet and much more. For more details on Atlantic Sessions log on to visitcausewaycoastandglens.com

BJORK OF THE TOWN BJORK, 3Arena, Dublin, November 28 This winter finds cult Icelandic singer Bjork arriving in Ireland on her Cornucopia tour, her most spectacular live offering yet. It kicked off Stateside in May, with New York magazine heralding it as “one of the most incredible displays of lights and sounds ever to grace a stage in the city”. It marks the first time Bjork has visited our shores since an aweinspiring set at Electric Picnic in 2013. She has not headlined her own solo show here since playing Dublin’s Olympia in 1997, making this an extra-special occasion.

WHY I’M REMEMBERING UNICEF IRELAND IN MY WILL As a child, Marian Killeen’s parents ensured that she was always aware that there were people less fortunate than her. Killeen’s mother served as a nurse in England after World War ll and her father was a special branch detective involved in the registration of non-nationals. Through them, she learned about the many refugees fleeing war and persecution throughout the world. However, it was after she had her own children that Killeen became more involved with children’s charities, and UNICEF in particular. Seeing media coverage of wars and natural disasters across the world and how children were affected struck Killeen. “It’s not fair on anyone, but

children are innocent,” she says. “They don’t understand what’s happening, yet they get the brunt of it and they don’t have the mechanisms to cope with these situations.” Having been an active supporter of UNICEF for decades, Killeen knew that she wanted to leave a donation to the charity in her will. “My family and friends were all very supportive of my decision,” she says. “They know that there are very vulnerable people throughout the world and that we should do all we can to help them. People don’t realise that you can leave a couple of hundred euros and it all makes a difference. As the saying goes, “every little helps”

CALL SARAH MOYLES AT (01) 878 3000 IF YOU ARE INTERESTED IN LEAVING A GIFT IN YOUR WILL TO UNICEF IRELAND. 12

SPECIAL FEATURE


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AIN’T NOTHING LIKE THE REEL THING CORK FILM FESTIVAL, Various Venues, Cork, November 7–17 Ireland’s first and largest gathering of the cinematic clans, the 64th Cork Film Festival returns this November with a schedule packed with award-winning efforts from the international festival circuit. Showcasing over 240 of the latest and best international and Irish features, documentaries and shorts, the event also includes programmes for schools and families; classics movies; a focus on film and mental health; and specialist Industry Days. The latter includes Doc Day, which cements Cork as the destination festival for Irish documentaries. Visit corkfilmfest.org for upto-date announcements on this year’s programme.

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13 nights

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VISIT BELFAST THERE ARE PLENTY OF WAYS TO WARM UP IN BELFAST CITY THIS AUTUMN A vibrant festival celebrating Belfast’s heritage as Ireland’s leading Irish language city, Fleadh Feirste: The Gaeltacht Quarter Festival returns this year with traditional music, art exhibitions, poetry events and more. Taking place from November 4 to 8 at Cultúrlann McAdam Ó Fiaich, highlights include Dáimh, SuperCéilí and the Aisling Ghéar Theatre Company’s new drama, Is Iomaí Rud a Tharla. The C.S. Lewis Festival (eastsidearts.net) celebrates the legacy of the East Belfast-bred author of The Chronicles Of Narnia, with five days of talks, lectures, tours, exhibitions, workshops, film screenings and theatre events. From November 22 to 26, the festival will explore the themes of storytelling and imagination, while also shining a light on the work of other creative heroes. While you’re in the city, don’t miss the renowned Titanic Belfast (titanicbelfast.com). Named the World’s Leading Tourist Attraction at the prestigious World Travel Awards in 2016, the impressive visitor experience tells the story of the lost ship, from her conception in Belfast in the early 1900s, through to her construction, launch and maiden voyage. The self-guided Titanic Experience extends over nine interpretive and interactive galleries, which explore the sights, sounds, smells and stories of RMS Titanic, as well as the city and the people who made her. The museum is located on Belfast’s Maritime Mile, which also includes such attractions as The Big Fish and the vast Thompson Dry Dock. For more information see visitbelfast.com.

AC H T U N G BA BY HOZIER, 3Arena, Dublin, December 10 & 11 From humble beginnings as an aspiring singer-songwriter, Andrew Hozier-Byrne has become one of the biggest success stories in the history of Irish rock. After reaching number one in America earlier this year with his excellent sophomore effort, Wasteland, Baby! Hozier has cemented his superstar status with a string of acclaimed dates at home and abroad. During his stellar headlining set at Electric Picnic in September, the Bray musician announced his intention to play Dublin’s 3Arena, with tickets duly snapped up like gold dust upon release. Indeed, the demand necessitated a second date, which immediately sold out.

S AV I L L S S T Y L E AWA R D S

A MERRY C HASE LEOPARDSTOWN CHRISTMAS FESTIVAL, Leopardstown Racecourse, Dublin, December 26–29 Filled with glamour, music, entertainment and top class National Hunt racing, the Leopardstown Christmas festival has become a much-loved Yuletide tradition. It features eight Grade 1 races over four days, including the Grade 1 Racing Post Novice Steeplechase on Thursday 26; the Paddy Power Steeplechase on Friday 27; the Grade 1 Savills Chase on Saturday 28; and a Grade 1 Hurdle on Sunday 29. The event also boasts live music in the festival marquee, as well as DJs in the Champions Pavillion, and children’s activities on Family Day, held on December 29. The 28th, meanwhile, is Ladies Day, featuring the coveted Savills Style Awards.

T I TA N I C B L E FA S T

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BRIAN McEVOY

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S P E C I A L F E AT U R E

COAST WITH THE MOST

BUSHMILLS DISTILLERY The world’s oldest licensed distillery is idyllically located beside the rippling River Bush. Savour the evocative sights, sounds and smells on a tour that celebrates centuries of the distilling craft, and its connection to the village and its people. RATHLIN ISLAND Wild and beautiful Rathlin Island is only 20 minutes from the seaside charm of Ballycastle. Explore the island on foot, bike or by boat, and take in the three lighthouses and the RSPB West Light Sea Bird Centre, with its chorus of puffins, guillemots and kittiwake.

Not only has Northern Ireland’s Causeway Coastal Route been lauded as one of the world’s great road journeys, it was also named alongside Belfast as the #No 1 Region to Visit in 2018 by Lonely Planet. Here are our top picks on the stunning route... GIANT’S CAUSEWAY

DUNLUCE CASTLE Perched on the cliff edge, this brooding castle, on the outskirts of Portrush, with its turbulent back-story of battling clans, is said to have its own banshee. Walk through the crumbling rooms, take in the dramatic sea views, and explore historical and archaeological exhibits. G I A N T ’ S C A U S E WAY

Situated within one of the nine Glens of Antrim, the breath-taking Glenariff Forest Park has superb walking trails and a three-mile long ‘Waterfall Walkway’. If you’re lucky, you might see red squirrels and Irish hares on your way.

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Giant’s Causeway is a spectacular location on every level. Walk through narrow pathways lined with tall hexagonal columns, climb to the top of the strangely sculpted stacks and clamber across rows of stones, each with six perfect sides, pounded by waves for millennia.

THE DARK HEDGES

CARRICK-A-REDE ROPE BRIDGE Test your nerve as you cross the swinging rope between the mainland and the fisherman’s island, with the waves crashing below you. Once across, you’re rewarded with magnificicent views of the coast and Rathlin Island.

W E ST ST R A N D, P O R T R U S H

This beautiful tree-lined avenue is one of the most photographed natural phenomena in Northern Ireland since it was featured in Season 2 of Game Of Thrones®. Be sure to check out more filming locations for the hit series in the area. BINEVENAGH AND BENONE The majestic Binevenagh Mountain, ideal for walking and hiking, overlooks Benone Strand - seven miles of golden sand with views of the Inishowen Peninsula. Take some time out for some surfing, paddleboarding and blokarting.

DOWNHILL DEMESNE AND MUSSENDEN TEMPLE Mussenden Temple is a dream-like location, perched on a cliff above miles of fine golden sand. A short walk away, you’ll find the eerie shell of the once glamourous and thriving 18th century Downhill Castle. Afterwards, tour the 17th century thatched cottage in nearby Castlerock.

THE GLENS OF ANTRIM

GLENARIFF FOREST

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For information and ideas on where to stay and what to do, go to visitcausewaycoastandglens. com


TRAIN NEWS

LATER EVENING SERVICE TO MULLINGAR Iarnród Éireann has introduced a later evening service from Dublin to Mullingar from Monday 30th September.

PEAKTIME.IE

Launched to help DART customers during busiest commuting season More capacity available to commuters through small changes in travel times To coincide with the start of the busiest commuting period of the year, Iarnród Éireann has launched peaktime.ie – a data source to help DART customers with flexibility in their daily commute to find quieter trains in the morning peak. One in six of all weekday journeys on the DART are made between the hour of 08.00hrs and 09.00hrs, and peaktime.ie will show commuters who are in a position to alter commuting times how a change of even 10 minutes in some instances will find quieter trains. The information on peaktime.ie will be expanded in the coming months to include Dublin area commuter trains also. A spokesperson for Iarnród Éireann said, “As all third level institutions resume, and summer holidays now a fading memory for most, the period between now and early December is the busiest commuting time of the year, and record numbers are travelling on our services. Our DART services in the morning have a particularly concentrated peak, and at this busiest time, while recognising that many commuters have fixed travel times, we want to equip those commuters who have some flexibility in their work with the information to move to the shoulders of that peak, as we seek to make the best use of all available capacity at the busiest times. This is focused at the morning peak, which has a much more concentrated pattern of travel than the evening.” A record high of 20.9 million DART journeys were made in 2018, with this year forecast to approach 22 million. This is out of a total of 47.9 million journeys across Iarnród Éireann services in 2018, set to exceed 50 million in 2019. The company is maximising the availability of fleet at peak times to meet customer demand, while two significant fleet orders are progressed. Subject to the approval of Exchequer funds, the company expects to place an order for an additional 41 carriages for the Commuter and Intercity fleet in the coming weeks, to enter service in early 2022. However, the process to order the largest and greenest fleet in Irish public transport history is underway as Iarnród Éireann, supported by the National Transport Authority (NTA), began the tender process in May for up to 600 electric / battery-electric powered carriages over a 10-year timescale. DART Expansion, a ¤2 billion investment under Project Ireland 2040, will see the capacity of the rail network transformed through investment in up to 300 new carriages, electrification of lines to Maynooth, M3 Parkway, Hazelhatch and Drogheda, and key infrastructure works to allow more trains to operate in the Greater Dublin Area. It will double the capacity of the DART and Greater Dublin Area commuter network by 2027. However, the ambitious tender for up to 600 carriages allows for the planned fleet expansion, and ensures that the framework is in place for more carriages to be ordered if further growth in demand occurs, and to ultimately replace the original DART fleet (76-carriage fleet in service since 1984). The tender is expected to be awarded next year, with the first carriages under the framework entering service in 2024.

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he existing 20.47hrs from Dublin Connolly to Maynooth will be extended to Mullingar (Monday to Friday), serving Kilcock, Enfield and Mullingar. Currently, the final service for these stations is the 19.15hrs Dublin Connolly to Sligo service, and the newly extended service will give further flexibility in work and leisure to regular commuters from Kilcock, Enfield and Mullingar. A spokesperson for Iarnród Éireann said “our customers have sought a later service to Mullingar, and we are delighted to introduce this extended service in response. As we invest further in fleet and as we recruit and train new drivers, we will be able to provide increased service levels over time across our network, to give the flexibility customers seek in their daily travel with us.” To facilitate the extended service, the 21.40hrs Maynooth to Dublin Connolly service will be cancelled, and there will be some minor time alterations of between 2 and 10 minutes to some late evening DART, Maynooth, Northern Commuter and Phoenix Park tunnel services. Full details are available at irishrail.ie

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TRAIN NEWS

New text alert service launched for DART customers to report anti-social behaviour Text TRAIN followed by incident details and location to 51444 Iarnród Éireann has launched its new text alert service for DART customers to report incidents of antisocial behaviour on board DARTs and at stations. Customers can report issues to a live-monitored security centre simply by texting the word TRAIN followed by location, carriage number if possible, and details of the incident to 51444. The DART security centre, which will be staffed at all times during service operational hours, will then be able to make contact with security teams, Iarnród Éireann personnel or Gardaí as appropriate. Customers will receive an automated response to confirm the message has been received, and with a link to further details of how the text alert system operates. The new service is being publicised on displays on board DART carriages, and in stations, and will be further extended to Dublin Commuter routes in the coming weeks. It is one of a range of measures being taken to tackle anti-social behaviour issues. Other measures include:

GARDA TWIN TRACK TO RAIL SAFETY n Friday 13th September Gardaí undertook a community engagement and safety in rail travel initiative on board Dublin area DART, Commuter rail, and LUAS services, and at major rail stations nationwide. Up to 50 members of An Garda Síochána participated from 15.00hrs, on one of the busiest travel periods of the week. The initiative followed engagement between An Garda Síochána, Iarnród Éireann, Transdev (operators of LUAS) and other members of the Rail Safety Advisory Council, to support transport operators in ensuring a safe and secure travelling environment for customers. It is hoped the initiative, focusing on rail-based transport, will be the first of a series. Members of the force travelled on board DART, LUAS and Commuter rail services from 15.00hrs for the remainder of the evening, and Garda information points were in place at major Intercity rail stations, to engage with the public and provide general crime prevention tips and

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assistance. Superintendent Kevin Daly, coordinating the initiative said, “An Garda Síochána are pleased to be working in partnership with Iarnród Éireann and Transdev to deliver crime prevention and community engagement initiatives which will improve confidence in the use of public transport networks. This national initiative will facilitate high visibility policing and positive public engagement aimed at achieving our mission of ‘Keeping People Safe’.” Billy Gilpin, Director of Train Operations at Iarnród Éireann, welcomed the initiative, saying, “This is an excellent example of the proactive approach taken by the Gardaí to supporting public transport operators in a range of scenarios, from event planning to incident response, and we very much welcome this initiative and the significant resources being provided. We look forward to customers and employees alike engaging with Gardaí on services and in stations, and hope this is the first of many such programmes.”

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• • • •

Significant increases in the number of security patrols New CCTV on board DART, and completing installation of in-cab screens Strengthened cooperation and planning with Gardaí, both for specific events, and for response to incidents Joint operations with Gardaí Recruitment process underway for a senior security specialist

A company spokesperson said, “We have listened to and responded to customers in launching the new text alert service. It provides a discreet means of alerting us to any ongoing incidents so we can liaise internally and externally to respond. While the overwhelming majority of journeys on our services occur without incident, we are determined to ensure that we reduce the number of incidents for the benefit of those who travel with us and those who work for us.”


TRAIN NEWS

E X P L A I N E R

Leaves On The Line It's that time of year again. Everyone has heard the apologies for delays due to “leaves on the line” – but what does that mean? How can a small thing like leaves affect a big heavy train? he leaf fall in autumn often causes poor rail head conditions and can affect train performance and punctuality in a number of ways. When leaves fall on to the line, particularly in damp or wet weather, the rolling action of passing wheels compresses them, causing a greasy ‘mulch’ to cover the rail. This mulch is to rails what ice is to roads. It reduces the adhesion between wheel and rail – hence the phrase “low rail adhesion”. The leaf mulch can also affect the operation of track circuits, which is a key element of train signalling. The contamination is very difficult to remove from both wheels and rails and is often compared to Teflon, being very difficult to remove and very slippery. In order to comply with safety requirements, Train Drivers adopt defensive driving techniques. This includes reducing speed to prevent

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slipping over platforms or signals, and as braking can be affected, braking distances are extended. If you’re a regular rail traveller, you can probably sense the wheel “slipping” on a train if you’re travelling through an affected area. This is usually why delays are more prevalent at this time of year, particularly in the early morning and early evening. We tackle the problem in a range of ways…

front of the train and then applying a special ‘gel’ substance to the rail.

• Vegetation management: Removing trees from our property, and making sure other vegetation is cut back and managed.

• Manual gel application: Hand held gel applicators and specialised rail-head scrubbers are positioned at strategic locations, near junctions etc. and are utilised by specially trained maintenance staff in order to provide a rapid response when necessary.

• Traction gel applicators: Iarnród Éireann has also invested in Traction Gel Applicators – 111 of these units are installed across the network in known areas of low rail adhesion. When a train passes over the unit, it dispenses traction gel which improves the grip between the wheel and rail interface.

• Specialised water-jetting and gel application machine: We have a train which has specialised machinery to tackle railhead contamination. The train operates prior to early morning services on key sections of the network. It tackles the problem by cleaning the railhead with a high-powered water-jet at the

• Regular train on-board sanding equipment: Most of our rolling stock has been equipped with on-board sanding systems which will dispense sand when wheel slip is detected.

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• Best practice: Low rail adhesion affects many countries with a temperate climate, and Iarnród Éireann are a member of a group consisting of UK and Irish Train Operating Companies, which meet on a regular basis to tackle the problem. • Data Collection: We have a dedicated team of people who continuously work on ways of tackling the various components that come together and cause the problems described above. • Frontline Staff: Tackling low rail adhesion can be a difficult task. Iarnród Éireann staff work tirelessly to ensure our rail system operates safely in these conditions. This often involves frontline staff members from different departments working at all hours in all weather conditions. The dedication of these people means that the difficulties experienced at this time of year are kept to a minimum.


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F E AT U R E

T H I M P O R T A N C OF BEIN D E R M O

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As he celebrates the release of his stunning debut album, Without Fear, Ireland’s newest global superstar Dermot Kennedy opens up about hip-hop, religion, sneaking into festivals and Michael D. Higgins. I N T E R V I E W : Lucy O’Toole P H O T O G R A P H Y : Boo George

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he story of a Dublin busker’s rise to fame has been heard before – but it’s rarely happened with the kind of velocity that’s propelled Dermot Kennedy to international stardom. From uploading independent releases on Spotify and belting out Ed Sheeran covers on Grafton Street just a few years ago, the Rathcoole native – armed with a voice like golden gravel and some of the most viciously honest lyrics in contemporary pop – has enjoyed a whirlwind few years. The numerous highlights include a stunning performance at Electric Picnic in August. From a first glance at the fresh-faced young man sitting in a quiet corner of Aungier Street’s Lucky Duck, you wouldn’t suspect any of that at all. Well-mannered, articulate and sipping on a herbal tea, he appears to be taking the skyrocketing trajectory of the past few years well in his stride. Either that, or he’s still in a serious state of shock! “I actually felt strangely calm at Electric Picnic, and I don’t know why,” he smiles, recalling his stunning homecoming set, which attracted one of the biggest crowds of the weekend. “Last year was different, because I didn’t know what to expect. I was real nervous, and I was kind of annoyed when I got off the stage – because I was thinking, ‘That was good, but I didn’t live it’. We had the Dublin Gospel Choir come on and everything, and I didn’t even look at them because I was just trying to pull through it. “This year I didn’t feel nervous, maybe because everyone around me was solid. I’m really grateful that I was able to take a second to look out at the audience this time, and take it all in.”

THRILLING NEW VERSION He may be ready to headline Electric Picnic these days, but 20

it wasn’t so long ago that Dermot Kennedy was attending the festival. And not exactly as a paying customer either! “Me and the lads skirted the perimeter for ages,” he recalls, laughing. “Eventually we were like, ‘We better jump the wall here’. Then we were in the forest, and we were lying down, crawling on our bellies. We finally made it to the campsite, and we thought we were home and hosed – until we turned around the corner and saw there was a proper single-file wristband check ahead. “They put us in a van with other people in the same scenario, telling us that they were going to bring us somewhere where we might get fresh wristbands – but they dropped us in the middle of Stradbally and drove off. So we got kicked out in a really clever way, but it was still brilliant – probably better craic than the festival could have ever been.” With those wild days behind him, Dermot took to the Main Stage on Friday, following one of the biggest pop sensations on the planet, Billie Eilish. That’d not be an easy feat for most – but luckily for him, Billie’s a big fan. In fact, for a perfect visual representation of the power Dermot wields over his fans, look no further than Billie’s reaction to his single ‘Young & Free’ on YouTube. “I don’t even have words,” she says in the clip, struggling to pick her jaw off the floor. “Who was that? Yo, I met him! That’s what he sounds like? Whattt? God, that was like the most powerful voice I ever heard.” So tell us all about Dermot and Billie! “I met her at SXSW last year, before the whole Billie Eilish global takeover had really happened,” Dermot explains. “We played five gigs in Austin that week, and she played either before or after us for four of them, so we were following each other around town all day. “There seems to be a really solid support system behind her, because she’s very grounded through all of it. It’s got to


D E R M O T K E N N E DY

PAUL McCARTNEY PIC: JIMMY BAIOVICIUS

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F E AT U R E

“To do something unique, but not in a forced way, felt great. From then on, that’s the sound that I chase.”

be chaos – I can’t even imagine.” That kind of chaos could soon be on the way for Dermot whose debut album Without Fear topped the charts on both sides of the Irish sea in October. Including tracks penned back when he was 18, the album powerfully documents his journey as an artist over the last decade or so – opening, suitably, with a thrilling new version of ‘An Evening I Will Not Forget’, kitted out with added trap hi-hats and a vocoder. “When I stopped being in a band, that was the first song I made,” he explains. “It’s the song that really encapsulates everything in my life – it’s nostalgic, hopeful, sad, uplifting. There are so many songs where you focus on one topic, or person, but this for me encompasses everything. “Musically it’s a good representation of what I’m trying to do, and it shows what I want to be. Ending the album with ‘Without Fear’ is the same deal. Having them bookend the album feels good.”

S TA R T I N G F R O M Z E R O Dermot Kennedy’s dark brand of folk-influenced indie-pop takes more than one unexpected turn on the album – with his penchant for hip-hop still firmly in place. Beginning with an early spiritual awakening in the form of 50 Cent’s Get Rich Or Die Tryin’, hip-hop has been as much of an influence on Dermot’s musical journey as Bon Iver or Damien Rice. “I was 13 when I got 50 Cent’s first album,” he recalls. “It was so good, and from that I started listening to Jay-Z and Eminem. 22

I’ve had a serious love for it for ages. “About three years ago I had a song called ‘A Closeness’ and we put this really heavy, hip-hop style beat over it. It felt awesome. I remember listening to both demos – with and without that beat. Without the beat, it was just me playing it very safe in my comfort zone with guitar and vocals, trying to be Glen Hansard. With the beat, I was definitely nervous, but it was more exciting to me. To do something unique, but not in a forced way, felt great. From then on, that’s the sound that I chase.” While the lyrically dense nature of his songwriting certainly pays homage to his rap heroes, don’t expect to hear Dermot spitting a verse on his next album. “When I’m in the studio, I’m very aware of when I’m crossing the line,” he says, carefully. “I’m aware of when it becomes cheesy. It’s happened before, believe me!” Like Ed Sheeran’s oft-mocked forays into hip-hop? “100%,” he nods. “Even on that new Stormzy one, he does it and you’re like, ‘Eh, yeah…’ But I’ve been there. There have been bits of my songs that essentially have a hip-hop flow when I’m delivering the lyrics. Hip-hop influences me in a subconscious way. But it’s very obvious when you’re taking it too far.” This level-headed approach to his craft has guided Dermot since his independent days. Despite world acclaim now, he hasn’t forgotten that early struggle. “I had nothing going on,” he recalls. “I remember sitting around at home, awkwardly telling people that I’m a musician. Then Spotify started taking off, and my plays started going from a few a day to 50,000. “I was in Switzerland at the time, playing covers in a bar for five nights. I had nobody around me, and I was fielding all these calls and emails from managers, publishers, labels and lawyers trying to get in touch. It got to the point where I didn’t get a chance to even think about music for two weeks.” After securing a manager, Dermot was in no rush to sign a major record deal. His Spotify success gave him a sense of independence. It also allowed him to book gigs in New York, LA, London and Dublin under his own steam. “It was all built up independently,” he explains, “But eventually you reach a point where you realise that tour bus hire to go across America is $50,000, and obviously you can’t pay that by yourself. So after hitting that wall, we had to make the next step – and sign a deal.” Of course, he’s also well aware of many artists’ criticism of streaming culture. “I get it,” he says. “If you’re a band like Snow Patrol, who used to sell a rake of albums and now you don’t, it can be pretty jarring to find yourself relying on streaming. But for me, it’s only been positive, so I can’t complain. A lot of people say you don’t get paid enough from Spotify, but when you’re starting from zero, like me, it’s definitely enough.”

SELF-DESTRUCTIVE CYCLE Dermot’s rapid journey from zero to hero would be enough to send even the sanest among us off the rails. But with a solid support base back home in Rathcoole, he’s unlikely to be making the front pages with a tabloid scandal anytime soon. Indeed, he is well aware of the importance of mental health issues. “I’ve had the same group of friends since I was 11,” he smiles. “Only recently we had a conversation in our WhatsApp group where we were saying, ‘Look, if any of you are ever feeling in a bad way, just talk’. It’s so important. When you’re growing up, you can feel bad, but not necessarily recognise those feelings,


D E R M O T K E N N E DY

and for some reason it’s always been a very stupid, laddish, thing not to talk.” His family have also been supportive of his decisions from the outset – in both music and life. “My mam’s a very thoughtful person,” he says. “Her and my dad wouldn’t be religious. I remember being at Mass at Easter or Christmas, and my mam wouldn’t get up for Communion. I was like, ‘What’s your problem, this is the thing you’re supposed to do!’ She’s a class example of just doing whatever you want to do, and not adhering to certain things just because you feel like you should.” And his own religious beliefs? “It’s hard to know what to believe,” he muses, cup of tea in hand. “I’m definitely not the person to say, ‘you die, you go into the ground and you’re done forever’. If I was that kind of person, I probably wouldn’t write songs. Something’s got to happen. I actually think quite a bit about how I want to be treated when I die. Going in the ground is the scariest thing I can ever imagine. Considering that we have no clue what happens when you die, I can’t write off the idea that people in the ground are somehow aware of it. “Whenever I say that I don’t believe in God, the tiniest part of me is like, errgh. If God’s real, then that’s an X on my card! I believe in spirits and I believe in different presences being here still. There are too many signs you see and things happening that seem otherworldly. You also hear about people taking certain hallucinogens, and they literally go somewhere else. I feel like this is such a tiny corner of what life is.” That being said, Dermot’s in no rush to head off into the desert to experiment with psychedelics before recording the next album – nor would you have been likely to find him drinking cider in the fields of Rathcoole when he was a teenager. “I genuinely didn’t drink until I turned 18,” he says. “When people were starting to at 15 or 16, I just wouldn’t do it. I don’t know why, really, but it’s important to have things like that that you stick to in life. I was trying to do music, too, so I did have other things on my mind. “I was never into the college parties either. Even in subsequent years, I did the whole Coppers thing, but I hated it! I went because the lads were going. I remember countless nights out in Naas or Dublin, standing on the street waiting for a taxi at four in the morning, freezing, with tinnitus ringing in your ears. I’d be like, ‘Why am I doing this? This is not a good time!’” While his commitment to avoiding the music industry’s selfdestructive cycles has clearly worked in his favour, there were also other forces at play in Dermot’s meteoric rise – including a couple of shout-outs from the likes of Taylor Swift. “She’s clearly a brilliant songwriter and has her head screwed on musically,” Dermot says of the multi-platinum popstar’s endorsement. “But honestly, Hozier mentioning me on Today FM was 100% a bigger deal for me. That’s who I look up to, and that’s the kind of artist I want to be respected by.”

P R I M E D A N D R E A DY Like Taylor Swift and Hozier, Dermot is fast-approaching that pinnacle of success in which his opinion on everything from Brexit to climate change will be making headlines. While he’s yet to pen a political anthem, the thought has crossed his mind. “I’ve been thinking quite a bit about how shaky and volatile the world is right now,” he considers. “My songs are about human emotions and the human experience, but I’ve looked at how Hozier can comment on culture, the world and politics with songs like ‘Take Me To Church’ and ‘Nina Cried Power’. Art is so important for the world, especially in times like these. But at

“It’s quite a jarring thing, to be thinking that you just played the best gig of your life, and now you have to go off and sound-check somewhere else.” the same time, you don’t want to force it. If it feels natural, it’s definitely something I will do.” President Michael D. Higgins shared a similar sentiment in his specially recorded message that was incorporated into the start of Dermot’s Electric Picnic set. As expected, Miggeldy’s wise words about the importance of artists inviting us “to celebrate who we are” and “to aspire to become a better version of ourselves” provoked a cheer louder than some headliners. “He’s so unanimously loved,” Dermot beams. “When we got the speech we were like, ‘Yes – everybody’s going to love this!’ I met him when I played an Other Voices gig in Berlin. It’s amazing that he cares about things like this. What a cool President to have. I got multiple comments on the video of the speech from people in America saying, ‘Wouldn’t it be nice to have a President like this?’” While moments like those are certainly the high points, there’s no denying that life as a gigging musician takes its toll, too. “For sure – both physically and mentally,” he nods. “You’ve got to look after yourself. People are always like, ‘Isn’t it mad the way you don’t drink much – when back in the day the musicians were all so wild?’ Well, back in the day they were selling records, so they didn’t have to tour non-stop like we do! “It really struck me when we played Seattle,” he reflects, a bit quieter. “We played the Paramount Theatre, which is this huge, palatial, golden room. My mam and dad came over for it. It was the most perfect gig – the place was dead quiet. But then you wake up in a tour bus in the lashing rain in Portland. You’re thinking, ‘Did that even happen?’ It’s quite a jarring thing, to be thinking that you just played the best gig of your life, and now you have to go off and sound-check somewhere else. That back-andforth can wear on you. You can feel like you’re being dragged a million ways.” So how does he cope with those low moments? “There’s 12 of us on the road, and we’re all very close,” he smiles. “We’re friends more than colleagues, so there’s always someone to talk to, and there’s always a strong support network there. We actually had a little venting session in a tipi backstage when we played Glastonbury. Stuff like that’s so important – you should honestly schedule them when you’re on tour, just to check in on everybody.” Calm and collected, it looks like Dermot’s primed and ready for the tornado of success that’s surely heading his way. “It will be mad,” he laughs. “We’re touring right up to Christmas Eve, with the homecoming gigs at the 3Arena. We’ll have a week before we head off to Australia and New Zealand, and then it’s tour, tour, tour. I’ll grab a break whenever I can, but right now, it’s full steam ahead.” The Mystery Train is ready to roll again, with Dermot Kennedy in the driving seat. It promises to be one hell of a trip.

• Without Fear is out now. Dermot Kennedy plays the 3Arena in Dublin on December 22 & 23. 23


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KEEP HER COUNTRY

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isling’s back. Ireland’s own modern-day, plain-clothes, tellsit-like-it-is heroine returned with the September release of Once, Twice, Three Times An Aisling, the third book in the popular series from Sarah Breen and Emer McLysaght. Still on fine form, it finds Aisling continuing to capture the voice of the nation with her witty observations about everything from small-town living to notion-y nights out in the capital. This book finds Aisling in the midst of operating her new café in her hometown of Ballygobard, as well as negotiating A-list Hollywood weddings, throwing a hen do for her best friend Majella, and trying to figure out what to do about her fledging fling with English blow-in James. The verdict? Another compulsively readable, hilariously

Sarah Breen and Emer McLysaght have just released the third instalment of their hugely popular book series, Oh My God What A Complete Aisling. They talk to Go Rail about how their eponymous character became a national phenomenon, why they pay no heed to literary snobs, and Aisling’s film debut… I N T E R V I E W : Peter McGoran P H O T O : Al Higgins

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AISLING

relatable tome from two writers who seemingly can’t put a foot wrong. “We thought this was going to be the book where people said, ‘Nope! It was fun while it lasted but it’s time to bring these two down a peg’,” laughs Emer when I ask her about the book’s reception. “We were worried, but people seem to be loving it across the board.” In reality, the authors needn’t have worried in the slightest. Soon after the book was released, the onslaught of appreciative DMs and tweets from Aislingites started pouring in. “We’re both very accessible on social media so we get them constantly,” says Sarah. “It’s great, because they’re the people we write the books for. We’re there to please them. We’ve been getting those messages since the first book, and when we first started we thought, ‘This is unbelievable – that people are taking the time to talk to us strangers about something they read that moved them so much’.” The first Aisling book received praise not just for its light-hearted fun, but also for its poignant, sometimes touching, realism. Its depictions of issues like abortion, death and grief cracked even the hardest of hearts. “We still get people sending emotional messages to us,” Sarah nods. “There was one a few weeks ago from a guy who was living abroad. His dad died last year, and he told us he rereads the Aisling books because they remind him of home and because they’ve been a great source of comfort for him. So to comfort a person in their hour of need is such a gratifying feeling.” The fictional town of Ballygobard is situated in an unnamed county of Ireland, but realistically, it could take place in any parish in the country, such are the relatable observations about Irish small-town living and relationships. Readers certainly recognise themselves in the stories. “We made the Facebook page and people were joining it who weren’t connected to us, so we started to realise that the character was representative of a lot of people and people felt seen by it.”, Sarah resumes. “In 2010, we were approached by a TV producer who wanted to pitch it to RTÉ, but that fell through the cracks and didn’t happen. But for years we always knew there was potential there. Then it was in 2016, when Gill’s Commissioning Editor, approached us to do a book, that we thought, ‘OK, this is it, this is serendipity.’” “We still never thought that anyone would read it though!” Emer interjects. “Genuinely, they published the first book and did a print run of 4,000 copies, which is probably standard enough when you don’t know how it’s going to do. Then this third book, the print run was 44,000, which goes to show that nobody knew how big it was going to be.” The duo had never written a book before they started work on OMGWACA, but as soon as they signed the contract with Gill, the wind was put in their sails.

“They’re funny, they’re good to read, they seem to attract a lot of people who haven’t picked up a book for a while.”

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“We sat down with a big piece of paper in Sarah’s kid’s playroom and just drew a circle with Aisling in the middle and said, ‘Right – what’s going to happen to her?’ We were throwing problems at her, and from that we decided what was going to happen within the first four chapters. We flipped a coin to see who’d get the dubious task of writing chapter one, then that was us from then on.” I mention to the writers that the Aisling books are probably the first since Harry Potter that both myself and my literature-averse mother have sat down to read and discuss together. Is there a secret to making something so relatable that it captures a broad audience? “I think that it comes down to the fact that they’re funny, they’re good to read, they seem to attract a lot of people who haven’t picked up a book for a while,” says Sarah. “A lot of men read them and they’ll reach out and tell us how much they love them,” says Emer. “I think in the press the books can sometimes be described as ‘frothy’, or as ‘chic-lit’, and it doesn’t really encompass the readership that we encounter.” There was once a certain snobbery towards popular fiction (especially when it came to women writers). Do they think this has lessened in recent years?“ Yeah, well you look at Marian Keyes,” says Sarah. “For a long time she’s been one of our favourite authors and was beloved by loads of people. But I remember ten years ago, if you said Marian Keyes was your favourite author you’d be sneered at. Not that I cared, mind. Rachel’s Holiday is still one of my favourite books and I’d recommend it to everybody. And if people say, ‘Oh, it sounds like chic-lit, that wouldn’t be for me’, I’m like, ‘Well, that’s your loss!’” “The idea that just because something is popular means it isn’t worthy, or that you should feel guilty about reading it, I reject that. It always seems to happen if something is funny. There’s a disconnect between something being funny and something being seen as good or high-brow. Hopefully we’re breaking that down a bit. There is that snobbery there still, but we’re not really here for it.” Nor are the people at Element Pictures, who optioned the rights to OMCWACA after its release. How’s Aisling’s film debut coming along? “We are attached to write it, and we’re currently working on the fifth draft of the screenplay,” Sarah says excitedly. “They’re hoping to go into production next summer. The next stage is that it’ll go to a director, then a casting director will come on board. We don’t have anyone in mind for the roles in particular. We think it would be cool to see someone really unknown take on the role and make it their own. There’s just so much talent in Ireland that it would be amazing to unearth someone from this.” • Once, Twice, Three Times An Aisling by Emer McLysaght and Sarah Breen is published by Gill Books, priced €14.99. Emer & Sarah are ambassadors for Irish Book Week taking place from 26 October - 2 November.


F E AT U R E

IT’S S H OW TIME! Ardal O’Hanlon discusses his excellent new stand-up tour, The Showing Off Must Go On, and reflects on the massive success of Father Ted. Interview: Paul Nolan Main Photo: Mark Nixon

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est known for playing the iconic Dougal McGuire in legendary sitcom Father Ted, latterly, Ardal O’Hanlon has starred in the sitcom My Hero and the comedy-drama Death In Paradise, whilst also maintaining an impressively busy stand-up schedule. Throughout 2019, he has been playing an extensive UK and Ireland tour, titled The Showing Off Must Go On. He must possess formidable reserves of stamina. “Well, I’m doing it in chunks,” explains the softly spoken Carrickmacross native. “I did a bunch of dates in the spring and I’m doing the second half of the tour in the autumn. I’ve managed to cut it down to about 30 dates at a time – it used to be 50 or 60, which was a real killer. But I think I’ve finally copped on to the fact that you need to break it up. “To be honest, I do love it. When you have a show up and running and you’re happy with it, you want people to see it. People always have this conflict about performing: we love it but we also feel sheepish about showing off – I call my show The Showing Off Must Go On. It kind of refers to that internal conflict you always live with: ‘Who do I think I am? Why do I think I’m funny? Why should people listen to me?’ “Where I come from, you’re encouraged to not show off at all costs. To this day, people in Carrickmacross won’t wear hi-vis jackets in case everyone thinks they’re showing off!” The latest development on the Father Ted is front is that writers Graham Linehan and Arthur Mathews are

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A R DA L O ’ H A N LO N

KARL LEONARD

(L-R) Frank Black from Pixies; Dougal adorning a traffic box near Connolly Station; and Ardal O’Hanlon with Dermot Morgan in Father Ted.

plotting a musical based on the series. Has O’Hanlon talked to the duo about it? “I’ve been in touch with them, but not really about the musical,” he replies. “I mean, I see Arthur socially and I come across Graham from time to time on my travels. Good luck to them, it’s got nothing whatsoever to do with me. They did sort of consult me, just to see if I was okay with it and everything else, and of course I was. “I owe a huge debt of gratitude to them anyway. The writing was amazing, the part was amazing, and they put me in there. I’m totally cool with all that, it really doesn’t bother me. (Laughs) I don’t think I’ll be part of the casting process!” Of course, two of the main cast have left us, with Frank Kelly passing away in 2016, following from Dermot Morgan’s untimely passing close to the show’s conclusion in 1998. “I have fond memories of Dermot and Frank, absolutely,” reflects Ardal. “Even though it was a very small part of my life, it was clearly a big part of my life. When you actually put the three series we did back to back, it was probably less than a year we spent in each other’s company. But you obviously forge a bond with these people. They were both great men in their own way.” By all accounts, Dermot could be a comedic whirlwind. “He was always kind of on, alright,” says Ardal. “I mean, comedians are needy people!

They need an audience. I think Dermot was a very frustrated man for a long part of his career, in the sense that he felt underused and undervalued. He burst onto the scene from time to time with stuff like Scrap Saturday,

“To this day, people in Carrickmacross won’t wear hi-vis jackets in case everyone thinks they’re showing off!” and then obviously Father Ted was a massive break for him. It was an entirely new market, if you like – the British wouldn’t have been familiar with Dermot in any way. “So it was a big break, but I don’t think he ever lost that frustration. He always felt he was capable of so much more, that he could do so much more. He had that kind of nervous energy, so he was switched on a lot. Beneath the bluster, he was a really nice guy. He could be infuriating, because he found it hard to concentrate sometimes (laughs). I hope that doesn’t sound like I’m speaking out of turn or anything. He was a scatterbrain in many ways, but fundamentally a very nice and decent guy.” Earlier this year, Brad Pitt explained that

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he based his performance in Snatch on a minor character in Father Ted. For O’Hanlon, meanwhile, meeting the Pixies’ Frank Black – another high-profile fan of the series – was a particular highlight. “I was in the International Bar one night, trying out some material in the Comedy Cellar,” he remembers. “Frank Black was sitting there in the middle of the audience. It was truly ridiculous. It was a Sunday night and Des Bishop was hosting, and the Pixies were in town to play a few nights at the Olympia. I think it was in advance of a big tour they were doing. “Joey Santiago fancies himself as a magician, so he wanted to find a little venue where he could try out some of his close-up magic. They all turned up at the International Bar on a Sunday night. I come onstage, and according to Des Bishop, Frank Black gets ridiculously excited and he can’t believe it. So I come off at the interval, and Des comes over to me and says, ‘Oh my god, Frank Black wants to meet you! Can you go over and say hello to him?’ “He just wanted to talk about Father Ted. I’m like, ‘This is Frank Black!’ I’m a huge fan of the Pixies, so of course you end up going, ‘No – I love you!’ • Ardal O’Hanlon’s tour The Showing Off Must Go On stops off at Cork Opera House on October 30; the Market Place Theatre, Armagh on November 7; Millennium Forum, Derry (8); and Vicar Street, Dublin (9).


D E S T I N AT I O N

M Y FAV O U R I T E J O U R N E Y

B I R D O F PA R A D I S E Irish singer-songwriter Wallis Bird tells us about her fond childhood memories travelling on the train from Enniscorthy to Dublin, and reflects on her stunning sixth album, Woman. WALLIS BIRD

W JOURNEY: DUBLIN TO SALLINS

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subjects, but I choose not to talk about them in angry manner,” she explains. “I mean, of course I’m angry! But I’m trying to put forward my thoughts on these subjects in a more positive, caring light. I never want to say, ‘I’m right, and this is what’s right’.” At a time when so many artists are opting for escapism in their music, Wallis clearly still believes in the power of the protest song. “The more you repeat something, the more it begins to unfold into daily life,” she says. “That can work both ways - if enough people use disgusting, hateful words, it begins to seep in and seem normal. But if you repeat positivity enough times, then the change will come. “For this record I use positive words over and over again for that purpose,” she continues. “That’s to make sure it enters people’s subconscious. I want people to think, ‘She keeps speaking and singing positively, so she must really mean it’. Positive words can be contagious.” While the days of journeying from Enniscorthy to Dublin are now a fond memory, Wallis hasn’t lost the travel bug - a prerequisite for a gigging musician. “When I’m on tour, I have to prepare mentally and physically,” she explains. “I’m about to do five weeks on the road, so if I’m not fit, I can’t play well, and if I’m not properly prepared in my head, I’ll crease over at some point. But I’ve done enough touring to know when to be careful - and when I can be a little bit dangerous!

• Woman is out now. Irish dates on Wallis Bird’s European tour include The Cuncaim, Belfast (November 16); The Spirit Store, Dundalk (17); Dolan’s, Limerick (20); Vicar Street, Dublin (21); Opera House, Wexford (22); Black Box, Galway (23); and The Everyman, Cork (24).

PHOTO: JENS OLLERMANN

“It’s a simple journey - only two-and-a-half hours - but it’s so stunning.”

hile her career has catapulted her to far-flung shores, Wexford-born singersongwriter Wallis Bird hasn’t forgotten her roots. Chatting on the eve of an extensive European tour, she reflects on her Irish upbringing, and the nostalgia of the beautiful train journey from Enniscorthy to the capital.“You’re travelling all along the coast towards Dublin,” she smiles. “It’s really lovely. You’re on cliff edges, and you can look out and see the seagulls nesting. You come out of a tunnel in the mountain, and there’s an amazing view of the sea to your right. It’s especially nice because it’s untouched by roads, and it travels through fields without ever really hitting any villages. It’s a simple journey - only twoand-a-half hours - but it’s so stunning.” Wallis still associates the journey with travelling up to Dublin with her parents and siblings. “We didn’t head up too often, because my parents were pretty busy with all seven of us!” she laughs. “But they were great times. I always associate it with my mam’s sandwiches, and playing ‘I Spy’. They’re all very cute memories!” Although currently living in Germany, her soulful connection to the Irish landscape and the Irish people clearly remains strong. Her new album, Woman, finds her reflecting on our collective journey as a nation. “I’m really proud of Irish society,” she says. “What’s deemed ‘traditional’ now in Ireland is in fact very inclusive. People have choices, and it’s great.” Although the album addresses some of the most crucial social issues and debates of our time, Wallis made a deliberate effort to explore both the darkness and the lightness in the lives of women. “The whole record is talking about fairly heavy


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F E AT U R E

the

E I L I S H times She’s a once-in-a-generation pop phenomenon whose debut album soared to number one across the world. Before turning in one of the all-time great Electric Picnic appearances, Billie Eilish talked to Stuart Clark about Justin Bieber, Stella McCartney, Paul McCartney, Greta Thunberg and soon-to-be new best friend, Glen Hansard.

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Live Photography: Miguel Ruiz

tarstruck? Ever so slightly. It’s not every day that you get to meet – apologies to Taylor, Miley, Lana, Beyoncé etc. – the hottest pop star on the planet. And with oodles of credibility to boot. We’re backstage at Electric Picnic where in just over three hours, Eilish will play to one of the biggest Main Stage audiences ever – and get a humongous roar when she mentions her Irish roots. “I’m Scottish and Irish,” she told Go Rail last year. “I can’t tan AT ALL. For years nobody had ‘Eilish’ even in their vocabulary. Literally the other day somebody stopped me in the street to take a picture and he said that his girlfriend’s first name was ‘Eilish’. I was like, ‘Oh my God’. I’m excited to go to Ireland and not be the only one. I like being unique and everything, but I would also like to be somewhere people can pronounce my name correctly.” Accompanied by her mum, dad and elder brother Finneas, the prodigiously talented 17-year-old arrived in Dublin yesterday afternoon. Time has been tight, but they managed

to drive round the Phoenix Park, which she proclaims to be “stunning.” “We saw some deer, which you don’t get too many of in LA,” she jokes. “It was really pretty. Our hotel’s right next to the river, which looks incredible. I don’t really get to walk anywhere these days, but I get the sense that it’s a great city to just dive into and explore.” She genuinely couldn’t wait to get to Dublin because that’s where one of her all-time favourite movies, John Carney’s Once, was shot. “Our schedule didn’t allow it, but the next time I’m in Dublin I want to recreate that photo of Guy with his guitar on his back and Girl walking through Temple Bar,” Billie says with a grin as wide as the aforementioned Liffey. The whispers I’d heard earlier about Once co-star, Glen Hansard, coming down to Stradbally to meet Billie turn out to be true. “I’m not sure I’ll be able to hold it together when we meet because I’m such a massive fan,” she confides as we sit down for our natter. “Once was my mum and dad’s movie 30


BILLIE EILISH

and my brother’s movie, so it was sort of handed down to me by them. I love Glen Hansard. Meeting your heroes is sometimes disappointing, though. I hope this won’t be.” When I tell her not to worry, Glen’s lovely, she almost yells back: “Great, I love hearing that! Actually, dude, I’ve met some really great people recently. Sporty Spice who’s so nice, Billie Joe Armstrong from Green Day, Avril Lavigne and Justin Bieber. It was very surreal because for all my childhood and teenage years I had posters of Justin on my wall. He’s a really nice guy.”

“I love Glen Hansard. Meeting your heroes is sometimes disappointing, though. I hope this won’t be.”

FROM TOP:

Eilish with Glen Hansard at Electric Picnic; and Paul McCartney

Billie has only nice things to say as well about Pharrell Williams who interviewed her recently for V, the style magazine for cool kids who think that Vogue has passed its sell-by date. “He’s so sweet,” she coos. “That was a couple of months ago on the phone. I was in Seattle on tour but we’d met a couple of times before. It was so wild to be hanging out with Pharrell; he’s always been such a legend.” The striking cover shot by Dutch brother and sister fashion duo, Inez and Vinoodh, makes her look like a goth princess. “That was a verrrrrry long shoot,” she recalls theatrically rolling her r-s. “With them being as weird as they are, I‘d normally have said, ‘No’ to those pictures. Did you see, like, the cat mask? On any normal day, I’d have been like, ‘Ewwwww, hell no, I’m not going to put those extensions in, I’m not going to wear that mask, I’m not going to wear this outfit, I’m not going to be in front of this chair…’ For some reason I was in this mood where I went, ‘Hell yeah, let’s do that, I’m down!’” Pharrell’s gob was comprehensively smacked when Billie told him she literally dreamed up the video for ‘ilomilo’ – that’s the one where she’s slo-mo sitting on a giant ladder – in her sleep. “I immediately woke up and was like, ‘Oh my God, that’s a video I have to make!’” she explains. “My dreams are so random and so intense no matter what I do. I dream a lot of my visuals; like the whole album is based around a drawing of this character who repeatedly features in them. It’s kind of cheating because I’m doing the work subconsciously!” Another of Billie’s A-List celebrity pals is Stella McCartney who supplied her with the psychedelic Beatles-inspired two-piece she wore at Glastonbury. “Billie, her brother and her whole family have a musical story which completely fits with my own upbringing,” McCartney enthused afterwards. “We’re all vegetarians, vegans and animal lovers; we spent a lot of time talking 31

about our obsession with horses and how they are completely healing and save our souls. In my eyes, she has been really great at self-preservation. It’s important for me to align myself with people that believe in the same things as I do, so I can have honest and true conversations.” Which, as endorsements go, is pretty damn ringing. “I went to Stella’s headquarters when we were in London,” Billie resumes. “I totally respect that she doesn’t use any animal materials in her products. There’s no leather, there’s no fur. It’s all vegan and animal cruelty-free, which with global warming and everything is really, really important. A big part of the problem is people not realising the impact that the meat and dairy industries are having. The Amazon forest is being burned down to make way for farms where they kill and butcher cows. That’s why it’s happening. “It may sound stupid and simplistic, but enough of us doing the right things will make this world a happier and better place.” I’ve been dabbling with veganism myself recently; the biggest conundrum being which milk substitute to go with? “Oatly’s great,” she recommends. “They do a special barista one for coffee.” Has Billie got to meet Stella’s old fella yet? “I’ve not, no, but when we went to meet her at her headquarters she was like, ‘Let’s FaceTime dad.’ I was there with my whole family and we all grew up on The Beatles.” Quick quiz; what’s the best Fab Four album? “Er, The White Album.” Correct answer. And song? “Dude, tough questions! I only have to listen to ‘Something’ to be reminded of all that’s good and


“Teenagers know more about the country we’re living in right now than anybody. We’re being ignored and it’s so dumb. We know everything.”

F R OM T O P : Greta Thunberg; Stella McCartney; and Billie EIlish with Avril Lavigne

doing them… ‘well, this is insane’ - that kind of messes you up,” she continued. “In my head, I take everything that comes as if it is normal. I do my thing as if no one is watching or listening.” Even so, there must be moments when she goes, “Hang on a second, this is insane!!!!” “Oh my god, that thought has been floating around my head more than ever before recently,” she confides. “How can walking out to all those tens of thousands of people at Glastonbury be anything other than crazy? My first ever arena show was in March, so this is still new to me. I was standing on stage in Prague the other night with all these people screaming my name and just started crying. The crowds in Russia had no idea what I was saying but, oh my god, the energy coming from them. Getting to meet Justin Bieber and FaceTime Paul McCartney; that’s never going to be normal.” Does she feel the pressure of people, particularly young teenage girls who are out in force at Electric Picnic, being so emotionally invested in her music? “Growing up I felt exactly the way that they feel,” she concludes. “When somebody comes up to me in what might seem an inappropriate way or says something weird, I remind myself that the reason they’re doing it is that they have an intense feeling for you. I never ever met any of my idols when I was little, but if I had I’m sure I’d have lost my mind and sobbed. It’s such a privilege to be doing what I am right now.”

beautiful in the world. I love that song. ‘A Day In The Life’ is amazing too.” Right again. Back to Billie’s “let’s FaceTime dad” story… “Yeah, so I’m like, ‘But your dad’s Paul McCartney…’ and she goes, ‘Er, yeah, I know.’ Stella gets him up on screen and my mum cries, may dad cries, my brother cries and then I cry; it was a chain reaction. We were all blubbering, but it was cool!” Billie’s belief in herself and her generation was evident earlier in the year when she proffered that, “Teenagers know more about the country we’re living in right now than anybody. We’re being ignored and it’s so dumb. We know everything.” Which given what the likes of Greta Thunberg and gun control activist Emma González have been up to recently is impossible to argue against. “I’ll be eligible to vote for the first time in 2020,” she eagerly notes, “which I can’t wait for. Last year I took part in a registration drive in Los Angeles with the mayor, Eric Garcetti, because one of the most fundamental ways to feel empowered is to vote. People think, ‘Oh, I’m only one person’ but it’s like, ‘Bro, if we all thought that way nothing would ever change.’ You gotta vote!” Billie Eilish seems to take this pop star lark in her stride, telling Go Rail last year that her “one wish is to not take things for granted.” “If you think about things while you are

• When We All Fall Asleep Where Do We Go? is out now. 32


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F E AT U R E

FIGHTING FOR S U R V I VA L Having scored an international hit with Blood, Virgin Media are wowing audiences again with another must-watch Irish drama, Darklands. The cast and crew talk to Stephen Porzio about Love/Hate comparisons, MMA and the rapidly changing TV landscape.

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n many ways Irish television is in a better place than ever. Yes, there are funding challenges, with RTÉ currently trying to figure out how to re-position itself in the digital age. Yes, it is fair to say that commissioning editors could be more adventurous. But 10 years ago, could anyone have imagined the eruption of Love/Hate on Irish television screens? Or the heady psychological tension of Virgin Media Television’s Blood? Now comes another Virgin series, Darklands, which could potentially become as iconic as Love/Hate, which bristled with fierce energy – and not a little gore – across Irish screens from 2010 to 2014. It’s written by Cardboard Gangsters’ Mark O’Connor, who shares directing duties with Conor McMahon (From the Dark, Stiches). It also stars a strong blend of Irish film legends, acclaimed theatrical actors and excellent first-timers. Set in Wicklow, it tells the story of Damien (Dane Whyte O’Hara), a teen in his final year of school, who dreams of becoming a professional MMA fighter. However, his home-life is troubled, and his brother Wesley is involved in criminal activities. When Wesley botches a major drugs import and goes missing, his best friend Butsy (Thommas Kane Byrne) promises to take Damien under his wing and help find his brother. However, his real aim is to turn the teen into a gangster. Will Damien choose a life of crime? Or will he listen to his MMA coach Paddy (Mark O’Halloran) and stay on the straight and narrow? Sixteen-year-old Dane Whyte O’Hara had no previous experience in acting, but plenty in martial arts. He shot the show during his secondary school holidays. “When I was six, I started off with kung-fu,” he says.

“Eventually, I got more into the sport side of fighting, learning kickboxing and Muay Thai.” Having idolised Bruce Lee as a child, O’Hara stumbled upon the opportunity to audition for Darklands. “I saw they were looking for a martial artist. I didn’t know they wanted a lead. I thought it was just going to be some boxing in the background. Eventually, I found out. So, I said ‘screw it’ and went for it.” Having done an acting workshop with Paul Ronan, father to Saoirse, O’Hara secured the role. “Often,” executive producer on the series Frank Agnew says, “casting a 16-year-old, you look for a 20-year-old who can remember what it was like being that young. But he actually is that. So, it makes it much more natural. Because he’s fresh faced, you warm to him. With something like this, you go with your emotional response. Is that baddie scary? Is that goodie someone I’m going to warm to? You have a gut reaction.” The age of the protagonists sets Darklands apart from Love/Hate. “Obviously, there’s going to be comparisons thrown around,” says Thomas Kane Byrne who plays Butsy. “But crime has never been approached from the outlook of people so young. Those already involved in the crime life, they’re gone. But you can actually stop people from getting into it.” Agnew agrees. “When you are 16 or 17, you’re trying to decide what you are going to do with your life. Except Damien’s choices are much more extreme. So, Mark O’Halloran’s Paddy represents a future where Damien uses his talents and abilities, to fulfil a dream. The gang on the other hand 34


DA R K L A N D S

“I saw they were looking for a martial artist. I didn’t know they wanted a lead. I thought it was just going to be some boxing in the background.”

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F E AT U R E

“The show is a broad canvas, but it asks an essential question – how do you choose what and who you’re going to be?” represent a very easy option. With them, you don’t have to worry about applying yourself, trying hard and facing disappointment. You’d get your money tomorrow and you’re part of this gang. The show is a broad canvas, but it asks an essential question – how do you choose what and who you’re going to be?” Byrne offers an insight into how he approached his character: “I think there’s a part of Butsy that’s jealous of Damien, because he has his whole life ahead of him. Whereas Butsy’s resigned to his own fate. I can’t see him giving it all up and getting a job in Tesco.” Darklands benefits from having strong female characters, including gang leader Bernie, played by Derry Girls’ Judith Roddy. “Butsy doesn’t answer to anyone except Bernie,” says Byrne. “That’s interesting. He’s arguably the most powerful man in the series, and the only person more powerful is a woman.” Bernie is seen as the Michael Corleone of the story: “She’s very intelligent, cunning and ruthless. Her machinations direct everything. Everyone ends up being moved by what she decides.” Given his collaborations with Lenny Abrahamson and appearances in dramas like Dublin Oldschool, The Virtues and Viva, the presence of Mark O’Halloran is like a stamp of quality. 36

He wanted to work with Mark O’Connor. “I really liked Cardboard Gangsters,” O’Halloran says. “And I love that Mark’s carved out this unique presence in the Irish film and television world. I love the milieu of Darklands. The scripts are terrific. It was a no-brainer for me. Plus, Cardboard Gangsters was the biggest Irish box-office hit in years. Mark really knows how to play to an audience. Being involved in something with that kind of appeal is great. Hopefully it’ll be a smash.” The aim is to get Darklands away outside Ireland, like Virgin Media’s other major drama Blood – which has been hugely successful abroad. “Blood is in 60 something countries now,” Agnew says. “We were getting messages from people who saw the finale in New Zealand and Iceland. That was very exciting. So, we’re trying to get programmes seen outside of Ireland because it’s confirmation that we’re making good quality drama. The themes of Darklands are relevant anywhere.” What about season two? “You wouldn’t make a drama unless you had half a plan for where it might go. When you see who survives in the end, you can’t help but go, ‘I wonder what happens to them?’. I hope it’ll hit the mark, and people will re-invest so we can do more. There is room to grow.” That is – or should be – the motto for Irish television. Here’s to the future... • Darklands airs Mondays at 9pm on Virgin Media One. It’s also available for virginmediatv.ie catch-up.


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Bressie & Louize Musicians, The Blizzards What’s your favourite thing about Ireland? Bressie: Always has and always will be our personality. It’s unique. Louize: The stunning rugged landscape and the people – you can’t get that particular brand of humour and scathing wit anywhere else. Your favourite Irish town? B: Mullaghmore in County Sligo is one of the most beautiful places on earth. I used to go on holidays there every summer. L: I love Dun Laoghaire/ Monkstown. It’s so close to the city centre, but satisfies my need to be near the sea.

Italian. Pizzas the size of your head and hilarious staff. Best bar in Ireland? B: I like Nearys (1 Chatham St, Dublin), off Grafton Street. I’m a not big drinker, so wine’s more my thing. The Red Bank (17 Duke St, Dublin) is a great wine bar. L: Ah here! This is nearly impossible to answer! There’s one for every kind of mood you’re in. I love a good oldschool dark and cosy pub, with the smell of a fire burning. The Royal Oak in Kilmainham (11 Kilmainham Lane, Dublin) Paradiso, Cork is really nice for that.

Best view in Ireland? B: Landing in Dublin on a clear day. L: Slea Head at the tip of the Dingle Peninsula, and the ridiculous views on Cape Clear off the southwest of Cork. Your favourite restaurant? B: Paradiso (16 Lacaster Quay) in Cork. L: That’s Amorè (107 Monkstown Rd, Co. Dublin)– the most delicious little authentic

Favourite weekend retreat? B: Ashford Castle (Cong, Co. Mayo) is like another planet. I also love writing in Harveys Point in Donegal (Lough Eske Rd, Donegal). L: I need to have way more of these to be honest. It’s hard to find the end of weeks, but I love the Cliff at Lyons (Celbridge, Co. Kildare).

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Where do you shop for clothes? B: Anywhere that fits. Sinead Burke tells me I need to up my game, so I’m going to ask her to do my shopping for me. L: I’m a big fan of gold, chunky, vintage jewellery. I love looking through pieces at Rhinestones (18 Andrew Street, Dublin), and the old gems in vintage clothes shops like Nine Crows (22 Temple Lane South, Dublin), or the Dublin Vintage Factory (11 Fownes St. Upper, Dublin). Where do you pick up ingredients for cooking? B: I’m not a fan of mass-produced meats: a good quality butcher is key. The food industry is so big. Over-production of certain food really affects quality. But we are lucky – there is great access to quality food in Ireland. L: Avoca (11-13 Suffolk Street, Dublin) is my favourite! Does it count when the ingredients I pick up are in the form of a prepared dinner? Bressie is way more of a cook than I am… Favourite Irish building? B: My own Camden Recording Studios ( 67 Pleasants Pl, Dublin 8). L: I love the Pigeon House, aka the Poolbeg chimneys. I love seeing them on the horizon, and flying over them coming back to Ireland. What do you recommend to tourists? What do you recommend to tourists? B: There are some incredible things going on in the midlands. For example, the Hill Of Uisneach outside Mullingar is a special place. There’s a bigger story to tell in this country: tourism needs to be shared to all regions. L: In Dublin, you have to catch some of the exceptional Irish musical talent. Head to Whelans (25 Wexford st, Dublin) on any night to discover golden music nuggets. If you’re up for adventure, take a motorbike around the Beara Peninsula. • The Blizzards are currently on tour with their new album The Last Great Algorithm.



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A Pichet of the Action

Fresh from the release of her highly anticipated 20th novel, The Family Gift, best-selling author Cathy Kelly discusses overcoming her inner-critic, championing women and her travels with UNICEF, as we sample the delicious lunchtime fare at Pichet. Interview: Lucy O’Toole, Photography: Miguel Ruiz Pichet 14-15 Trinity St, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 677 1060 pichet.ie

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ince first opening their doors ten years ago, Pichet have made the smooth transition from groundbreaking newcomer to beloved Dublin institution – embracing classic French influences with a modern Irish twist. Situated on a bustling city corner, bordering Trinity Street, Dame Lane and St Andrew’s Lane, it’s the ideal spot to seek refuge from a blustery, Thursday afternoon with Irish author Cathy Kelly. While their famous a la carte dinner menu

has put them on the map as one of the hottest spots in the city, Pichet also offers a creative lunchtime menu between noon and 3pm, for surprisingly reasonable value. Taking our seats in the chic and sophisticated – yet seriously comfortable – bar area, Pichet immediately proves to be the kind of lunchtime spot where you’d happily while away the hours as the city passes by. Of course, great company helps too! Fresh from the release of her 20th book, The Family Gift, my fellow diner Cathy is abuzz with sincere and infectious energy. “That’s the great thing about getting older – your filter goes,” she laughs as we look over the menu. “I always had a problem with my filter anyway, but it’s officially gone now. And why not? It’s an awful cliché, but it’s true: don’t 40

die with your music still in you.” No fear of that! Having spent the last two decades producing an average of one book a year, some of Cathy’s crowning glories have included knocking heavyweights Dan Brown and J.K. Rowling off the top of the UK bestsellers list. After 20 books, is the pre–release apprehension still there? “In some ways, it still feels like the first one,” she admits. “I always get scared. You’re producing something over a long time – there’s a year of gestation. When it comes out you’re thinking, ‘What if people say it’s crap?’ If I opened the book up now I’d be saying, ‘Oh God, look at that bit – I should’ve done that differently!’” Like her previous work, relatable everyday


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“Everyone has an inner critic. All sentient beings have to have it, on some level. I haven’t named mine yet, but Mildred would work for me.” issues are at the centre of The Family Gift. Cathy’s protagonist, celebrity chef Freya, grapples with family drama and the aftermath of a traumatic experience – all of which is only made worse by her nagging inner–critic, aptly named Mildred. “Everyone has an inner critic,” Cathy muses. “All sentient beings have to have it, on some level. I haven’t named mine yet, but Mildred would work for me. It’s part of that Irishness, of not being able to believe you’re amazing. Growing up, we were never allowed to think that we were particularly good at anything. That stayed with us, and became part of the inner–critic.” “Years ago, I used to think, ‘I can’t leave the house, everyone must think I’m a useless cow’,” she continues. “But you eventually learn to deal with it. If they don’t like it, then that’s okay. You have to make peace with yourself.” The false personas we portray on social media also come under scrutiny in the novel. “Social media is very fake,” Cathy reasons. “ It’s this perfectly curated thing, with all these happy lives and filters. I’ve been doing some selfie–things on Instagram, but I’m still crap at it. I finally get the angle right, and then I can’t get my finger on the yoke to take the photo! How do people do it? “I can’t do Twitter because I would get too political, and just go insane. The rage would build up in me, and that’s not a good thing. I get incredibly impassioned, but I can’t engage in that way. It has too much of an effect on me as a person.” Any signs of social media–triggered rage vanish as our lunch arrives – presented almost too beautifully to disturb with a fork. It was a tough call but we’ve both taken the vegetarian route, opting for their Roast Squash served with Feta and Apple Chilli Dressing and spiced up with some Madras Aioli; the Roast Cauliflower served with Quinoa, 41

Grapes, Smoked Gubbeen Cheese and Crispy Hen’s Egg; and a generous Rocket and Parmesan side salad. Carefully crafted with an emphasis on fresh, local ingredients, the seasonal fare lives up to its stunning presentation – proving even more flavoursome than it looks. As we dig in, Cathy explains how she’s found the drive to consistantly top the bestseller list. “I have far too much energy for a normal person,” she smiles. “That’s why I’m bashing and bruising myself. I’ve been concussed three times, and two of those times were totally my fault – because I was just moving too fast. I got out of the car and turned straight into a lamppost.” “I’d love to write for television and write children’s books – and I’ve got a great idea for a thriller too,” she continues. “But then I think, ‘You’re still contractually obliged to write another book by March, so shut up and get this done!’” Her usual base of operations is at home in Enniskerry – where she writes surrounded by her dogs, to a soundtrack provided by jazz legends like Nina Simone and Charlie Parker. “Writers are supposed to be mad, but I’m very practical,” she says. “That’s probably why I’m good at what I do. I can go, ‘Okay, what needs to be done?’ When it comes to deadlines, I really create the pressure myself. I sign the contract, deciding what I can do in a certain frame of time – until I get to the point where I’m like, ‘Did I really say I could do this?’ But, I’m an ex–journalist, so the deadline adrenaline always kicks in.” If that doesn’t keep her busy enough, she’s also found time to be an Ambassador for Unicef Ireland. Through her work with the organisation, she’s travelled to Rwanda, Mozambique and the Za’atari refugee camp in Jordan. “I was at the camp three years ago, and it’s only got worse,” she rues. “Eight years into the conflict, and they’ve got around 80,000 people in there. If you’re really lucky, you have


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PIchet head chef Stephen Gibson

a prefab – if not, you have a tent. The funding is going down too, because people are like, ‘Ah yeah, Syria, we know, we know…’. “That’s why it’s hard to get people engaged with what’s happening in Yemen right now,” she continues. “There’s this huge humanitarian crisis, and people over here are like, ‘Yeah, we’ve had enough of this stuff now, I can’t cope – I’m going to turn on Game of Thrones again.’” In their own unique way, these eye–opening travels have helped to inspire the human stories that lie at the heart of her books. Throughout her career, women in particular have always played a central role. “Women are amazing,” she enthuses. “I’ve always been a feminist – though a lot of people don’t seem to see that. They think I write ‘romantic novels’, but that’s probably because they haven’t actually read them. This enormous generalisation is made when it comes to women writers. Women have so much strength and power, but the patriarchy

has been keeping that down. “Even with Maeve Binchy, people still think of her as ‘warm and cosy Maeve’,” she adds. “If you actually look at her work, she wrote with a pretty good scalpel. But I guess we must all be ‘warm and cosy’ people!” With lunch out of the way, we get stuck into dessert: a fabulous Île Flottante made up of meringue, blackberry sorbet and crème Chantilly, which we both tackle. Over green tea and an Americano, we toast to Cathy’s 20th novel – and look forward to exciting new developments in her work. “The Family Gift is the first time I’ve written in the first–person, and it’s lovely,” she says. “There’s a great freedom in that. For the next book I’m doing first–person again, but with two different people. I want to keep moving and changing – because that’s what we should be doing as human beings all the time.” • The Family Gift is out now. 42

“It’s hard to get people engaged with what’s happening in Yemen right now. There’s this huge humanitarian crisis, and people over here are like, ‘Yeah, we’ve had enough of this stuff now.’” T H E DA M A G E One-course lunch: €17 Two-course lunch: €23.50 Side salad: €4


Styletto Connect

HEAR GOOD. LOOK GOOD. Manuel Cortez wears Styletto Connect. A STYLISH APPEARANCE With the new Styletto Connect, hearing aid wearers have both cutting edge listening technology and modern design, because the compact battery shape allows a unique slim design. Their fashionable colour combinations and the elegant metallic finish make the Styletto Connect a trendy accessory that people with hearing loss can wear with confidence.

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POWER DAY AND NIGHT The powerfull Lithium-Ion battery delivers energy all day long, including up to five hours of streaming. The mobile charger itself has a built-in rechargeable battery allowing you to charge on the go. The Bluetooth® word mark and logo are registered trademarks of Bluetooth SIG, Inc. Any use of this mark by Signia GmbH is under license. Other trademarks and trade names are the property of their respective owners.

Styletto Connect – T E S T N O W E X C L U S I V E L Y ! Do you want to experience the revolution in sound, design, streaming and mobile charging? Make an obligation free appointment and try out the Styletto Connect. Mail us: info@irishhearingaids.ie Call us: Tel.: 1800 301 335

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Spice Up Your Life Stuart Clark Brings You The Latest Foodie News

TO C H A I FO R Regional flavours abound in Doolally, the new South Richmond Street, Dublin 2 restaurant presided over by Michelin star man Alfred Prasad. “I’ve drawn my inspiration from the heartbeats of India; bustling streets and bazaars, vast and vibrant coastline and its diverse and eclectic history,” Alfred enthuses. Along with the obligatory (and very good!) jalfrezis and tikkas, there are such rarely spotted here delights as Lamb Galouti, Pav Bhaji Fondue and Keralan Veal Fillet and a cardamom, fresh ginger, black pepper, ground cloves, cinnamon, orange peel, vanilla and fennel special chai that is the nectar of the gods! Doolally, we’re told, was a Nasik District hill station where empire-serving Irish and British troops kicked back before being repatriated. Needless to say, hi-jinx were had! doolally.ie.

T H E B E AU T I F U L G A M E Roast Venison with Port Jus, Game Terrine and Game Pithivier with Buttered Savoy Cabbage are among the nibblesome delights to be had in the Saddle Room as The Shelbourne celebrates the season that’s in it with a special Game Tasting Menu. Available for €60 per person or €100 with four

wine pairings – wait till you try the Domaine Saint Gayan from the Southern Rhône! – it’s available from November 1-28 and again from January 6-31. With old school Irish service and a thoroughly decadent Chocolate & Orange Gateau, you really should treat yourself! theshelbourne.com.

YO U R F I S H I S T H E I R COM M A N D One of our favourite Galway seafood joints, Hooked, has opened a sister restaurant in Barna Village, which has proved an immediate hit. From the Truskey Tempura Prawns, Pier Smoked Fish Plate and Bearna’s Fisherman Broth to the Hooked Fish Burger, Steamed Marty’s Mussels and signature Ali’s Seafood Chowder, it’s all outrageously good and great value for money. hookedonhenryst.com.

C L O N A K I LT Y P L E A S U R E S Having wowed us for many a year with their black and white puddings – you might recall Blur’s Alex James raving about them in Go Rail – Clonakilty has come up with an equally tasty veggie ‘n’ vegan version packed with onions, carrots, black beans, gluten free oats and their signature spice mix. Check out clonakiltyblackpudding.ie for their killer veggie pudding falafel recipe.

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(clockwise) Doolally; Game Terrine at The Shelbourne; and Clonakilty Veggie Pudding


Media

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That’s The Spirit! Stuart Clark meets HENDRICK MELLE, the rock ‘n’ roll-inclined Berliner who, having fallen in love with an Irish pirate queen, is now one of the driving-forces behind Grace O’Malley Whiskey.

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Hendrick Melle

“The only rules she played by were her own. She’s the archetypal rebel.”

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she continues to inspire is amazing.” As well as finding favour with whiskey connoisseurs – we’re still ooh-ing and aah-ing over the 18 Year Old Single Malt Amarone Cask, which is part of their Captain’s Range – Grace O’Malley is also a big hit with the cocktail brigade. “There are no rules any more as to how whiskey should be drunk,” Hendrick reflects. “A little bit of water, two blocks of ice, some ginger ale; it’s up to you. There’s an amazing lady in Berlin who – to use the music analogy again – did a remix of Whiskey Coke by adding a little bit of vanilla. It blew my mind! You can be a punk rock girl drinking it, or a middle-aged man working in the bank. The idea that we’re in control is an illusion. You just put the whiskey out there and people do their own thing with it.” Also being shaken, stirred and muddled with great

HENRICK MELLE PHOTOS: MIGUEL RUIZ

alk about serendipity! When the idea for Grace O’Malley Whiskey was being hatched four years ago on Clare Island in Mayo, no one realised that that the team would end up including Dave Wood, their International Sales Manager who used to tour manage such major acts as Flogging Molly; Jeff Burns, a Dublin rock ‘n’ roll activist whose managerial stable includes dream poppers Drops Of Jupiter; and Hendrick Melle, the Berlin creative who’s written a heavy metal opera about Valhalla with Uwe Fahrenkrog-Petersen, the man who supplied Nena with ’99 Red Balloons’ and most of her other mega Euro hits. Add in the song that we all loved singing in school, ‘Óro Sé do bheatha abhaile’, being adopted as the Grace O’Malley anthem, and you’ve a whiskey with serious music credentials. “Rather than being planned, it was just a case of likeminded people finding each other,” reflects Hendrick Melle as we sit down for a nip of Grace O’Malley Blended Irish Whiskey in the Irish Whiskey Museum on College Green. “If you’re passionate about music, you’re going to be passionate about the other finer things in life – like whiskey!” For those of you who aren’t up on your Irish pirate queen history – tsk! – Grace O’Malley was born in 1530 of noble Connacht stock. Married at the tender age of 16 to a man known as Donal The Battle, she was forced to take to the high seas in order to provide for her people. A skillful negotiator as well as a fearless mariner, she met with Queen Elizabeth I who, despite being her avowed enemy, admired Grace’s fiery spirit. “As the father of daughters, you’re always looking for the perfect role model, and they don’t come any more tough and loyal and able than Grace O’Malley,” Hendrick enthuses. “The only rules she played by were her own. She’s the archetypal rebel. The moment Stephen Cope, who’s brilliant idea the whiskey is, told me about Grace O’Malley I was like, ‘I love this woman!’ The creativity


BUSINESS

HENRICK MELLE PHOTOS: MIGUEL RUIZ

ALMOST 1 IN 12 PEOPLE ARE IN MORTGAGE ARREARS Do you know someone struggling with home mortgage arrears? Based on recent findings from the Central Bank, there is a high likelihood that you do.

Joan Mulloy

“There are no rules any more as to how whiskey should be drunk. A little bit of water, two blocks of ice, some ginger ale; it’s up to you.”

gusto this summer is the Grace O’Malley Heather Infused Gin, which includes wild thyme, red clover, blackthorn, fraughan and rock samphire among its other West Coast botanicals. “When you tell people about it first they’re like, ‘Oh, another gin…’” Hendrick smiles. “But then they try it and it’s, ‘Wow, that’s great!’ We knew that if we were going to make a gin, it had to really standout. It’s the same with the Caribbean Golden Rum we’ve got coming out soon.” Much of the Grace O’Malley magic is down to Paul Caris, their renowned French master blender who comes from a winemaking background. “It’s a traditional product but with a different twist,” proud father Paul says of his creations. “A big thing with the whiskey is the maturation process, which takes place in the same oak barrels that I’d have used as a winemaker. The magic and adventure of maturation is that you don’t 100% know what it’s going to taste like until it comes out of the barrel. A year, two years, three years; the character of the whiskey is changing all the time.” “I describe the gin as having ‘high-fidelity botanicals’,” he continues. “On top of the main juniper profile, you have lots of other things jumping out at you – like you do on a record! And getting handed the finished bottle is like a musician being given a copy of their new album; it’s always a thrill!” O’Malley are proud sponsors of Joan Mulloy, a modern day Mayo mariner who’s one of the world’s leading solo sailors. “She’s a very warm lady, so self-confident and relaxed at the same time,” Hendrick concludes. “Joan’s sailing round the world on her own, not getting any sleep for three or four days and dealing with whatever life and nature throws at her. To me, she is the modern day Grace!” • Grace O’Malley Whiskey is available at the Irish Whiskey Museum and leading stockists nationwide

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According to a report on Residential Mortgage Arrears and Repossessions statistics published by the Central Bank in 2019, 61,901 out of 723,280 residential mortgage accounts are in arrears across the country. Do you know someone in mortgage arrears on their home? It could be a colleague, a friend or even a family member. Being in serious debt is daunting and can be a lonely place. Many ignore the problem in the hope that it will simply go away. This does not help. Plucking up the courage to take control of the situation could result in the start of a journey to a positive outcome. It’s important to know that help is available every step of the way, and the key message for those in arrears is that “it’s never too late to seek advice.” No matter how bad the situation appears, a positive outcome is possible. Abhaile is a State-funded scheme that was set up to help mortgage holders in arrears find the best available solutions and keep them, wherever possible, in their own homes. Abhaile provides vouchers to access non-judgemental, qualified and professional financial and legal advisers free of charge. Dedicated advisers as part of Abhaile will work with borrowers in mortgage arrears and their lender to find the best possible solution for each unique situation. Don’t wait, pick up the phone today and Abhaile will help you to take control of the situation and work towards a positive outcome.

To learn more about the service, visit mabs.ie/abhaile or find us on Facebook. To speak with an Abhaile adviser or to arrange an appointment in your local MABS office, call the MABS dedicated Helpline on 0761 07 2000 between 9am to 8pm Monday–Friday.


D E S T I N AT I O N

ISLAND LIFE With spectacular waterfalls, hidden lagoons and sundry cultural delights, Greek island Samothraki is heaven for the wild at heart. By Irina Dhambazova

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ne of 227 inhabited Greek islands, Samothraki is located in the North Aegean sea, about 65 kilometres from the mainland. In terms of getting there, there are direct flights to Thessaloniki, the second biggest Greek city after Athens. From April to November, Ryanair operates flights there twice a week. Once you arrive, either rent a car or get a bus to the port of

(“Good evening”); Parakalio (“Please”); and Efharisto (“Thank you”). Also, make sure to brush up on your cooking, as you may be asked to make your meal if you can’t articulate your food intolerance in Greek. Few places in the world can offer as much beauty within the same 178 square kilometres as Thessaloniki, to be consumed as adventurously or peacefully as one wishes. With its glorious mountainous heart, in the shape of 1611m high Mt Fengari – and surrounded by beaches and

“Samothraki has treks, waterfalls, gorges, and Vathres” Alexandroupolis. From there, a twohour-and-20-minute ferry ride awaits. Be sure to look out from the deck, as you may be in the company of playful dolphins along the way. You will arrive in Kamariotissa, and from there, you can catch buses to other parts of the island. Alternatively, you can rent a scooter or hitchhike your way. While in more touristy destinations people will speak pretty good English, Samothraki offers one of the best opportunities to learn the beautiful Greek language. Get a headstart with Kalimera (“Good day”); Kalispera

lagoons you can only reach by boat – Samothraki has treks, waterfalls and gorges for the young and old. Then there are there the Vathres – natural pools formed in the feet of the waterfalls. There is a reason why, as the myth goes, Poseidon chose Samothraki as his viewing spot to watch the fall of Troy. All that is mixed with a good dose of ancient Greek mythology, as the spirit of Nike – the Greek goddess of Victory – suffuses the evergreen landscape. A leading attraction is the ancient Thracian Sanctuary of the Great Gods, 48


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“If you are in the mood for adventure, you can hop over to the next lagoon east.”

a site of a mystery cult, where the likes of Odysseus and Philip of Macedon have been known to drop by. Since this is Greece, a few beautiful beaches will be in order too. For a sandy one, head to Pachia Ammos, on the south shore about 15 km from Kamariotissa. If you are in the mood for adventure, you can hop over to the next lagoon east. You will have to reach it by boat, or foot climbing rocks for about 20 minutes. For a pebble beach, head to Kipos, a stretch of over a kilometre, curving around the eastern tip of the island. For fresh water adventures, hike to the Fonias waterfalls and dive into their pristine magical Vathres. In terms of food – well, it’s goaty! So much so that after reaching a certain elevation inland, if you ask for seafood, you will get some angry Greek looks. “We are mountain people,” they will say in response. One option for your dose of goat is Taverna Fonias on the northeastern side of the island. A beautiful garden, a handful of hammocks and a kind server informing you when you have ordered too much food (portions are huge) await you. It’s a great spot for a late lunch after spending the day exploring the Fonias waterfalls. For fish go to Akrogiali Taverna in Lakoma Beach, where there is no menu, and owner Ritza may ask you to help her in the kitchen. She will then graciously offer to teach you

sirtaki, and send you on your way with a bag of nectarines from her garden. Go to Hora, the mountain village, for a mixture of stunning views and good food (a great option is Taverna 1900). For some exciting nightlife, head to the campgrounds on the north shore. Wild, hippy-ish and open-minded, they attract Greeks eager to escape the stresses of urban life for a few weeks or months. In terms of accomodation, if you want to be close to nature, the wild campground Natural Living will give you loads of it. Unlike most organised campsites in Greece, this is a giant forest where shade is in abundance – though well-maintained toilets, not so much. If camping isn’t your vibe, you can opt for nearby Therma, where you will find lovely Mariva Bungalows and Marmaras Nikos. For even more convenience, you can stay in port town Kamariotissa. Anywhere in between Therma and Kamariotissa should also be good. When in Samothraki, it’s worthwhile sampling the hoppy local craft beer, Fonias. While you are at it, if anyone asks, say you are Irish. You will see the Greek eye soften for their “Mediterranean brother or sister of the north seas”. Finally, it’s perhaps best to visit in June, when the weather is stable and the heat isn’t too intense. 49

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“ N O F LY ” C R U I S E S JMG Travel and Cruise & Maritime Voyages are making international adventures easier – and more eco-friendly – with a number of new no-fly cruise options for next summer. From March to October 2020, there will be 20 departures from Belfast, Dublin and Cobh, which include complimentary coach transfers from most major towns. There is a varied selection of exciting cruise itineraries with competitive fares, including routes to the Norwegian Fjords, Iceland, Spain, Portugal, France and Morocco. Prices include en-suite accommodation, all meals on board, entertainment, port taxes and coach transfers to and from Dublin. Check jmgcruise.com or call 074-9135201 for a brochure. AIRBNB PET EXPERIENCES Popular vacation rental site AirBnB have launched a new branch of their business, called ‘Animal Experiences’, which promotes responsible animal tourism. Connecting local hosts who are certified by the World Animal Protection guidelines to ensure the safety and welfare of the animals, the new programme includes opportunities to learn paddleboarding with Mr. Beaches the corgi (and his trusty human) in Florida; hike with pigs through the fairy woodlands of Kinvarra; and watch KISS perform live to the great white sharks off the southern coast of Australia. Visit airbnb. com/animals/experiences to find out more. EPIC OPENS POWER OF A NAME EXHIBIT EPIC The Irish Emigration Museum has opened a new exhibit, which invites people from across the globe to pay homage to their Irish ancestors by adding their names to the museum. “Every person who left Ireland is part of our emigration history,” says Patrick Greene, CEO and Managing Director of EPIC The Irish Emigration Museum. “The life they started in a new country is part of the impact of the Irish abroad, and this exhibition aims to pay tribute to them and spotlight a powerful part of their story – their name.” To add your ancestor’s name, go to epicchq.com/power-of-a-name.


Roe McDermott looks at a selection of leading Irish designers promoting sustainability – so you can shop for their gorgeous designs guilt-free.

ALL ECOSYSTEMS GO

EBONY TURTLENECK THEO + GEORGE

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MURALA

FA S H I O N

One of Ireland’s most covetable new brands, Murala is the brainchild of Sandra Murphy and Alan Kelly, two enthusiastic and innovative Irish designers who met in college. This effortlessly chic womenswear brand is destined to become a staple among Irish fashion lovers. Murala garments are comfortable, versatile, practical and, above all, beautiful. There’s an effortless polish to their contemporary designs, with the vivid prints elevating their pieces. Sustainability and ethical production are also of the upmost importance to Murala, and all of their clothes are made ethically in Europe. “It’s really important to know that the people who work on making Murala are treated fairly,” assert the designers. “We’re also very environmentally aware and sustainability is a challenge, because unfortunately there is no perfect model to follow in our industry. But wherever we’re given the choice, we make the more conscious decision. We’re working with our suppliers to do the same, so that we’ll all have more sustainable options in the future.” • If you want to see and shop for some of Murala’s gorgeous pieces, visit murala. com. For news and updates, follow Murala on Instagram and Facebook at @muralastudio.

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THEO + GEORGE

Theo + George has recently relaunched, going back to its roots and embracing durable, quality, highly wearable wardrobe staples. It’s also tapping into the values of slow fashion and sustainability. With a minimalist, effortless aesthetic, the pieces are made to work together seven days a week; clothes that people can look and feel good in. The brand is fronted by award-winning designer Katie O’Riordan. Her vision focuses on durability, design and sustainability, all leading to an effortless collection designed with the wearer in mind. Speaking about her brand, O’Riordan’s passion and values are clear. “We believe in sourcing ethically, committing to causes and challenging culture,” she says. “We believe that buying fewer items that are more durable, timeless, and made in fair conditions will actually save you money. I have always been conscious about how I live and shop. The clothing industry is one of the worst industries for the environment, and I was not going to create a brand which fuelled that fire. When it comes to work, sustainability impacts every decision we make, including packaging, manufacturing partners, shipping and recycling.” • Theo + George is available online, and you can contact info@theoandgeorge.com for more details. 51


FA S H I O N

AISLING DUFFY

Multi-disciplinary artist and fashion designer Aisling Duffy’s unique style – and desire to create one-off, unusual pieces that she couldn’t find anywhere else – led her to study at the National College of Art & Design in Dublin, where she specialised in printed textiles. She then went on to study at the Edinburgh College of Art, specialising in mixed media textiles. Duffy has a penchant for bold and arresting patterns, which blend fun, whimsical colour choices and classic elements. This results in eye-catching prints with obvious artistic influences, from geometric shapes to watercolour effects. The themes of identity, environment, personal development and history all run through Duffy’s work. All of her work is also produced sustainably, and she only works with fabrics that don’t involve any animal cruelty in their production. “My work is printed sustainably on ecofriendly fabrics,” she notes. “I think that as a young designer it is important to use my voice to inform others about how unsustainable and wrong current industry practices have become. Her fashion and accessories are madeto-order, by hand, and she does accept commissions – so if you want a lovingly crafted and truly original piece, get in touch with her! • Find Aisling Duffy’s designs on her website aislingduffy.co.uk, her Instagram aislingduffydesigns or her Twitter @aisling_duffy.

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BL AC K & BEEC H

Stacey Grant-Canham’s independent lifestyle brand Black & Beech features jewellery, clothes, gifts and accessories, which all come with a healthy dose of wit, thoughtfulness, feminism – and, of course, impeccable style. Grant-Canham’s personality, her experiences of motherhood, and her passionate commitment to intersectional feminism inform all of her designs. These include accessories like silicone jewellery, specifically designed to be safe to wear around young and teething babies. Grant-Canham’s also believes that at a time when the personal is political, personal style can be political, too. “I made the decision to donate to various women-supporting charities though my sales,” she explains. “It meant I was no longer talking about motherhood on my social accounts, but difficult issues like abortion and women’s rights. This evolution really brought me huge joy, as I feel the brand is very much ‘me’ and my multi-faceted self. The response to that has been incredible and my Repeal posts are my most engaged with.” Stacey’s feminist philosophy also extends to how her products are made. “We use all organic cotton and ethically supplied garments for this reason too,” she reveals. “It costs more, but it would be so wrong to have feminist messaging without considering all the women in the supply chain who made those products.” • To check out Black & Beech’s designs, see blackandbeech. com and their social media under @blackandbeech. 52 52


GO REVIEW

MATTHEW THORNE

R E V I E WS O F T H E L AT E S T A L B U M S , M OV I E S , BO O K S

REVIEW

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PA G E 5 4 / / G O L I S T E N

The sublime return of Nick Cave, plus excellent new albums from Mary Black and Brave Giant. PA G E 5 5 / / G O WAT C H

Cave New World

Roe McDermott runs the rule over the new Hunger Games installment, plus Blade Runner 2049 and The Lego Batman Movie. PA G E 5 6 / / G O R E A D

The best new book releases, including Margaret Atwood’s The Testaments and Salman Rushdie’s Quichotte.

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LISTEN

GH OSTEEN SPI RI T

NICK CAVE’S STUNNING NEW ALBUM IS AMONG THE HIGHLIGHTS AS WE DELVE INTO THE LATEST

MATTHEW THORNE

MIGUEL RUIZ

ALBUM RELEASES.

N I C K C AV E & T H E BAD SEEDS GHOSTEEN

IT

was a cold soul that didn’t feel for Nick Cave and his family on the tragic loss of their son in 2015, the worst nightmare of any parent. Accordingly, Skeleton Tree­was, at times, a harrowing listen, although Cave claimed the songs predated his loss, like Dylan has always maintained the mortalitybaiting material on Time Out Of Mind came before his brush with the reaper. Ghosteen continues in a similar vein – for how could it not? – with Cave documenting his anguish through work of rare beauty, transmogrifying unspeakable pain into high art. The music is, as one might expect, sombre. There are washes of analogue keyboards, punctuated by acoustic piano and semi-choral backing vocals. The words ‘ambient’ and even ‘prog’ spring to mind. The long opening section of the title track might remind you of the Bowie and Eno of ‘Warszawa’. Nothing even approaching percussion appears until the halfway mark of ‘Leviathan’, and, even then, it’s only a skeletal rumble. It is Cave’s lyrics and his voice – ranging from spoken word, through sonorous tenor, to plaintive falsetto – which must carry the most weight. Irish ears cannot help but wonder if the album’s title is a reference to a small ghost, the taibhse beag that haunts this record. The title track concedes that the centre cannot hold and “things tend to fall apart.” And there’s more. “He kisses you lightly and he leaves… baby bear, he has gone, to the moon in a boat,” Nick Cave sings – words that would shatter the hardest of hearts. ‘Ghosteen Speaks’ might well be Cave imagining a spirit at its own funeral: “I think they’ve gathered here for me… I am beside you, look for me.” Take pity on the artist forced to relate these feelings. PAT C A R T Y

MARY BL AC K O RC H E S T R AT E D

AT

first glance, this might seem like more of the same – a collection of mostly familiar Mary Black tracks, road-tested over the decades. In reality, though, it’s a project that not only places Black in an invigorating, fresh environment, but also rejuvenates many of the key triumphs from her impressive and enduring back catalogue. Partnered by the RTÉ National Symphony Orchestra, and recorded at the NCH with arrangements by conductor Brian Byrne, the 11 tracks here show how Black’s voice still has the same evocative sparkle that enthralled fans in the ’80s and ’90s. Opening with Joni Mitchell’s ‘Urge For Going’, Black captures the uncertainty of relationships amid the chilly onset of winter. It acts as a fitting contrast to the companionable warmth of ‘The Summer Sent You’, one of Noel Brazil’s finest, while Thom Moore’s ‘Carolina Rua’ gets a stirring orchestral intro. Both are reminders of how Black defiantly blazed a trail for Irish songwriters, by having the foresight to champion their best work on her topselling albums. So it’s no surprise that a major beneficiary of that largesse, Jimmy MacCarthy, shows up here through two gems, ‘No Frontiers’ and ‘Adam At The Window’ – both still sounding as if they were created for Black’s voice. Black is joined by Australian singer Marcia Howard for a version of William Blake’s poem ‘A Poison Tree’, which is the least convincing track, though Black brings a winning wistfulness to Richard Thompson’s ‘The Dimming Of The Day’. This is one project where the term “orchestral accompaniment” is no euphemism for blandness, especially with the strident end-section of ‘Turning Away’. But in the end, it is Mary Black’s voice people will come to hear. They won’t be disappointed. J AC K I E H AY D E N

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B R AV E G I A N T WHITE, PINK + BLUE

W

ith a well-established fanbase and a major upcoming tour, Brave Giant clearly have an effective alt-folk formula. But, experimental lads that they are, they’ve taken the leap towards rock on their debut album, White, Pink + Blue. And it works brilliantly. Lead single ‘Wizards + Witches’ gives a good insight into this new direction: it’s catchy, upbeat, and will sound even better live. The booming synths, rocking drums and relatable lyrics make for a seriously intoxicating mix. As for the rest of the album, Brave Giant’s ability to incorporate different influences is hugely impressive, be it folk from mandolinist/banjoist Ross McNerney on ‘Otherside’; pulsing drum beats from Emmett Collum on ‘Lake Of Anna’; or edgy harmonies from Podge Gill and Mark Prunty on the anthemic ‘Saviour’. It all culminates in the album closer, stirring ballad ‘Hand Me Downs’. The track builds to a stunning crescendo, and you get lost in the layers of irresistible melodies. Indeed, as billed in the album title, it journeys through the blues of depression; the pinks of love; and the whites of hope. Their debut album is barely out, and Brave Giant are already playing to packed-out houses. These 11 excellent songs should increase their fanbase even further. BRENNA RANSDEN


WAT C H

THE HUNGER GAMES WE PLAY

DYSTOPIAN ADVENTURE THE HUNGER GAMES LEADS THE WAY IN ROE M c DERMOTT’S ROUND-UP OF THE BEST NEW MOVIES ON NETFLIX. THE HUNGER GAMES: M O C K I N G J AY PA R T 2 In the penultimate installment of The Hunger Games, Peeta (Josh Hutcherson) was brainwashed by the Machiavellian Capitol dictator President Snow (Donald Sutherland). In this final outing, he wrestles to regain his sanity, constantly checking the veracity of his memories. “Real or not real?” It is this question that permeates Mockingjay Part 2. The nature of war, violence, propaganda and power and who possesses it are all examined in the movie, which is more interested in the effects of war than glamorising the battlefield. As Katniss witnesses her friends transform into warmongering soldiers, power-hungry traitors, and the victims of endless violence, the guilt and trauma of war weighs heavily upon her. There are also some exciting action sequences, including a terrifying attack by zombie-like “mutts” in the dark depth of underground sewers. The literal darkness of the film evokes the increasingly bleak atmosphere of the dysfunctional society, and Katniss’ broken spirit, providing powerful emotional moments. Brief glimpses of the late Philip Seymour Hoffman, meanwhile, add an additional layer of poignancy.

BLADE RUNNER 2049 Director Denis Villeneuve is a philosopher, tackling personal, social and metaphysical issues with grace and power. His sequel to Ridley Scott’s 1982 sci-fi classic takes the themes of technology, power, autonomy and soul and pushes them even further, against a backdrop of such mind-blowing visuals that the only possible reaction is genuine awe. Ryan Gosling plays K, a limitedtimespan replicant police officer whose job is to hunt down and “retire” the first generation replicants, who have now been outlawed. When evidence emerges that a child may have been conceived between a human and replicant, K is dispatched to investigate, unearthing truths about the forces that design and control the world

around him. Roger Deakins’ cinematography is jaw-droppingly beautiful, capturing the monolithic scale of Villeneuve’s dystopian vision. For good measure, when Harrison Ford makes his highly-publicised return to the franchise, he puts in the performance of a lifetime. Truly exceptional stuff.

THE LEGO BATMAN MOVIE In an era where all superhero films are now ultra-violent, existential angst-fests only suitable for adults, The Lego Batman Movie is a welcome exercise in unapologetically fun escapism. It’s completely kidfriendly while also being a whipsmart satire of heroism and Hollywood. Will Arnett perfectly voices Batman, whose mopey existence in Wayne Manor clashes with his narcissistic cool-guy posturing. Saving Gotham yet again seems far less glamorous when celebrating consists of a microwaved dinner for one. But suddenly, his identity as an anti-social vigilante is thrown into disarray. In one eventful evening, he unwittingly adopts irrepressibly upbeat sidekick Robin (voiced by Michael Cera); gets a crush on Gotham’s new kick-ass commissioner, Barbara Gordon (Rosario Dawson); and is told that he needs to start working with Gotham’s police force. A helter-skelter mix of dazzling visuals, dizzyingly fast action and madcap mayhem, The Lego Batman Movie is an incredible rollercoaster ride.

MOTHER! Jennifer Lawrence and Javier Bardem star as the married couple at the centre of Darren Aronofsky’s deliciously depraved baroque nightmare. When an older couple (Ed Harris and Michelle Pfeiffer, ferocious) invade the couple’s picturesque home, mother is unnerved by their overfamiliarity, but her concerns are dismissed as paranoia. Already secondguessing herself, mother’s fears begin to map themselves into the very foundations

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of the house. The house bleeds. Its orifices begin to resemble genitalia. It has a beating heart. Is this insanity? Is this the end of days? Or is it only the beginning? As this feverdream hellscape ratchets up the crazy with every extra house guest, biblical stories violently collide with modern political concerns, creating an apocalyptic vision – with autobiographical undertones. As celebrity culture, Cain & Abel, and climate change all co-exist, Aronofsky also seems to be exploring the narcissism of being a creator. Or should we say, The Creator? The camera stays close on Jennifer Lawrence’s face as she observes the frightening frenzy unfolding before her, which escalates with anarchic energy and disturbing visual flourishes. Enjoy your ringside seats to the end of the world – it’s one hell of a show.

COLOSSAL The marketing for Colossal pitches it as a quirky rom-com with a twist. Anne Hathaway stars as Gloria, a somewhat lost, unemployed, recently-dumped alcoholic who moves back to her humble hometown to regroup. There, she reconnects with childhood friend Oscar (Jason Sudekis), and the scene seems set for some mumblecore romance – but there’s a complication. After Gloria passes out drunk in a playground, she wakes to the news that a Godzilla-esque monster has appeared in Seoul, destroying much of the city. Gloria continues to get black-out drunk in the park, the monster attacks keep happening – until Gloria realises that she is the monster. But the real twist isn’t that Gloria’s a magical monster. The twist is that the people in her life are beginning to demonstrate a far more insidious form of beastliness. Writer and director Nacho Vigalondo’s screenplay is razor-sharp, working on several levels. Homages are paid to Japanese tokusatsu cinema and kaiju monster films, but by lambasting gender expectations and Hollywood tropes, the director has created a wholly original beast all of his own.


READ

TE STAME N T TO G R EATN ESS

MARGARET ATWOOD’S HUGELY ANTICIPATED SEQUEL TO THE HANDMAID’S TALE, THE TESTAMENTS, IS AMONG OUR TOP WINTER BOOK RECOMMENDATIONS.

THE TESTAMENTS

MY CRAZY WORLD

QUICHOTTE

M A RGA R E T AT WO O D

CHRIST Y DIGNAM

SALMAN RUSHDIE

(C HATTO & WINDUS)

(SIMON & SCHUSTER)

(JON ATHAN C APE)

Set 15 years after the famously vague “ending” of Margaret Atwood’s seminal 1985 dystopian masterpiece The Handmaid’s Tale, this sequel of sorts is narrated by three women who have been affected by the brutal totalitarian state of Gilead. It’s a thrilling, often terrifying page turner. Quite rightly hailed as the literary event of 2019, the prolific visionary doesn’t miss a beat, despite the three-and-a-half decades since she originally created this alternative world. Indeed, she conjures up a spellbinding saga packed with twists, turns and tragedies, whilst reaffirming that she’s once of the most captivating storytellers of the modern age. Pulling off the near impossible trick of delivering a satisfying sequel full of surprises, The Testaments is nothing short of a triumph, and will forever change the way you view the residents of Gilead. “Blessed be the fruit.”

Many of the Christy Dignam’s most heartbreaking, intimate and shocking stories have been heard before, but never have they been told with such visceral honesty by the man himself. My Crazy World moves from his Dublin childhood – where he suffered sexual abuse at the hands of two neighbours – to his first gig (an IRA fundraiser), to being chewed up and spat out by a post-U2 music industry hungry for the next big thing. Then there was his stint in Bangkok, where he went in search of heroin mere hours after getting clean in a Tibetan monastery. Latterly, of course, Dignam has also had an intense battle with cancer. This is a book about the extremes and tragedies that come with success, and the resilience of the human body and spirit. Overall, My Crazy World makes for funny, uplifting, redemptive and hugely compelling reading.

Unlike his literary namesake who read too many chivalric romances and ended up one blade short of a windmill, Rushdie’s Mr Quichotte’s cheap television addiction prompts his quest to win the love of film star/chat show host Selma R. But before you can shout “Flann O’Brien!” the story switches to Sam DuChamp, author of ropy spy novels, who is composing Quichotte’s tale, one that mirrors his own situation the more the novel progresses. As it’s a Rushdie book, Quichotte’s son Sancho (of course) is wished into being during a meteor shower and helped by talking crickets and blue fairies. There’s also subplots involving wronged sisters; Dr. Smile’s effective fentanyl spray which leaks across both narratives; and CentCorp’s inter-dimensional doorway, echoing what’s happening in our ‘real’ world in this crazy “Age of Anything-Can-Happen”. A brilliant, head-spinning triumph.

PETER McGORAN

PAT C A R T Y

EDWIN McFEE

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WIN

PAC I N O S

WIN

GO RAIL COMPETITION

W IN D IN N E R FOR TWO WI TH WI NE AT

PAC INOS

SUF F OLK ST, DUBLI N 2

A warm atmosphere awaits you at one of Dublin’s best Italian restaurants. Located right at the foot of Grafton Street, Pacino’s is a superb spot to replenish your energy reserves after an activity-packed day out in town. With rustic brickwork, mosaic tiles and ambient lighting, Pacino’s has a comfortable and relaxing feel. The friendly and fun energy in the dining room makes the already excellent dishes even more delectable. All of Pacino’s fine Italian cuisine is cooked to order and their tasty wines are expertly chosen by the in-house professional sommelier. A member of Good Food Ireland, their ingredients are locally sourced for the most delicious and sustainable results. Ask the staff to guide you towards the kitchen’s signature dishes and specials of the day. Find out more at pacinos.ie

THE PRIZE: The winner of the Go Rail competition will enjoy a delicious meal for two with wine at Pacinos great Italian city centre restaurant. To enter simply email your answer to gorail@hotpress.ie. Please include your contact details, and let us know on which train route or at which station you picked up your copy of Go Rail.

THE QUESTIONS: 1. What Dublin-set movie is an all-time favourite of Billie Eilish?

2. What is the name of the debut album by Go Rail cover star Dermot Kennedy?

3. Which indie-rock legends surprised Ardal O'Hanlon at a recent gig in the International?

- The Commitments - Once - My Left Foot

- Within You, Without You - Without Mercy - Without Fear

- Pixies - The Jesus And Mary Chain - Dinosaur Jr

Terms & Conditions: The prizes are subject to availability. No cash alternatives will be offered. Entrants must be aged 18+. Go Rail may contact competition entrants with details of future special offers. Your details won’t be passed on to any third party. Please specify in your email if you would like to opt out of this.

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